Best fuel system cleaners according to redditors

We found 29 Reddit comments discussing the best fuel system cleaners. We ranked the 8 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Fuel System Cleaners:

u/catherineirkalla · 6 pointsr/scooters

Ok cool. I ride a TaoTao which is a similar Chinese manufactured scooter.

Yours has a 139QMB GY6 engine. This is a VERY VERY common engine in Chinese scooters across brands. You can find TONS of videos on YouTube describing how to maintain and repair them. You can usually get better search results searching for "50cc GY6" or "139QMB"

They require semi-frequent maintenance if you want it to be reliable and last a long time. They are dead simple to work on, even if you have never touched a wrench in your life. All the tools you need come to about $100-150 total and I list most of them toward the bottom of this post. Some other things on that post may be useful for your scooter too like the no-install alarm and magnetic oil plugs.

Unless you are wealthy I highly recommend taking the time to watch YouTube videos about GY6 maintenance and doing it all yourself. You can easily buy all the tools you need for the cost of 1 mechanic visit and parts are easy to get on amazon and very cheap. For reference a brand new carburetor is about $20, fuel filters are $3, air filters $7, and the entire engine+transmission assembly is $300 should you need to replace the whole engine. And even a carburetor can be changed in under 30 minutes with less than 10 screws needing to be removed.

The most common maintenance is changing your oil. You should do this when you first get it, then again at 50 miles, 250 miles, 500 miles, and every 300-500 miles thereafter. I personally use Valvoline Motorcycle Full Synthetic 10W-40 in mine and after 300 miles it is black AF. Here is a good video how to do it

The second most common maintenance is adjusting your valve clearances. This one can be scary AF for a newbie because it involves taking body panels off and taking the cover off the top of the engine. Here are two VERY detailed step by step videos: one, two. After you do it the first time it becomes no big deal and unless you go crazy with the adjustment the worst case is your engine will make more noise or wont start until you re-adjust it.

In addition to YouTube videos there are links to 2 different GY6 services manuals on the /r/taotao sidebar that may be useful, one is a PDF the other is a link to order the Haynes service manual. They are both good in different ways.

I recommend using non-ethanol gas if you have it in your area. If not it probably doesn't hurt to put a capful of Lucas treatment in with each fillup. When ethanol-free isn't available I personally spring for premium and add Lucas to it. Many people use regular 87 ethanol gas in them all the time, though and as long as you are using it frequently and not letting it sit then this should be fine. If you do use ethanol gas and need to let your bike sit then be sure to add enough fuel stabilizer to it or drain all the fuel out first.

u/BelAir56 · 5 pointsr/scion

I have modded manual 2006 tC with 106,700 miles. It treats me good but I'll give you a full insight to these cars.

Annoyances/Problems

  • For the 05-06' years the TPMS light can be annoying because the tire pressure is actually monitored by the ABS sensor (even 1 psi off and mine flips out). 07' and up there is an actual sensor within the rim.

  • With the manual tranny models you might encounter the famous "mouse clutch" which squeaks when you depress it (mine does when I don't lube it from time to time). Luckily there is a nice lubrication fix with liquid wrench and a guide: http://clubsciontc.com/forums/diy-install-guides-23/diy-clutch-fork-squeak-fix-9916/

  • The hatch sure loves to rattle it's heart out as well. I tune it out because it really doesn't bother me that much, however if you're OCD about the rattling there is plenty of fixes to it like this one: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/tc-tech-diy-1818/hatch-rattle-fix-33086/

  • The hatch handle breaking off is the most infamous nuisance with the 2005-2010 TC model years. You absolutely need to be careful opening the hatch and make sure you don't put that much force on the handle. Just press the button on the handle and lift the bottom of the hatch up.

  • There has been reports of 2007 TC models using excessive amounts of oil as well. Usually it's a toss up because the 2.4 i4 2AZ-FE is mass produced and there is always a few bad apples.

  • AVOID THE TRD SUPERCHARGER AT ALL COSTS. The TRD Vortech superchargers are absolute pieces of shit and most people are reporting that they break down at 15-20 thousand miles. If you have the tools, parts, and time to rebuild the supercharger then I recommend it only.

    Most of that information above is the most common problems with TC's. The driveline, engine, transmissions, and factory clutches (mine is original at 106,700 and still smooth) are rock solid and has never broken down on me. I have a K&N short ram, straight pipe borla exhaust, RÄZO short shifter, and coil overs on mine for performance mods... No exterior mods because it's really easy to turn a TC into a rice rocket with a few stupid pointless exterior mods.

    POWER

  • The TC stock is 160 HP @ 5700 RPM and 163 lb-ft torque @ 4000 RPM for the 05'-06 years. Stock power for the 07'-10' is 161 HP @ 6000 PM and 162 lb-ft torque @ 4000 RPM.

  • The TC is mostly torque IMO with the stick shift. 1st-3rd on mine I really can feel the car hauling ass when I put my foot down on the gas and 4-5th is mostly just cruising along on a main road or freeway.

  • The car is by no means fast at all however it can really get out of its way and goes when kick down thanks to the high torque on the car.

  • I recommend 89 or 91 mid grade fuel from Shell, Exxon, Mobil, Chevron, or CitGO (depending where you live). The lowest octane is OK for the engine but I notice my MPG drops a bit and the car feels a bit more sluggish. I highly recommend Premium 91 or 93 fuel (depending where you live as well with the octane ratings) if you're going to track your car. People say it is snake oil (probably all stock IMO) but with mods on mine I definitely notice the difference between premium fuel vs. cheapo gas from some thrifty gas station.

    SAFETY

  • All TC accidents I have seen all of the people have walked away with just cuts or bruises and sometimes NOTHING. These cars are rock solid (just feel the body it's pretty damn hard) and the beer can models come with 3 standard airbags: driver and passenger frontal+driver knee airbag. The TC's with the factory option side airbags include side torso for both seats and side curtain airbags on both sides.

  • NTHSA ratings for the 2006 Scion TC:
  • 5 stars driver, 4 stars passenger, 4 stars rollover.
  • 4 stars side collision for front and 4 stars for side collision in the back.

  • IIHS evaluation overall for the 2006 Scion TC: Acceptable.
  • Side crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfZli6aqscc
  • Frontal crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlXeEG85grM


  • NTHSA ratings for the 2nd gen TC (2012):
  • 5 star driver, 4 stars passenger, 4 stars roll over.
  • 5 stars for all the side crash tests.

  • IIHS evaluation overall for 2012 Scion TC: Good.
  • Frontal crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p5XBrPHx9E
  • Side Crash IIHS (2011 model tested in video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9R9FKKfhvw

    OVERALL

    On the final note: This car can be an absolute gas hog as well. The gears on the manual are really awkward and 5th gear going 65 MPH on the freeway I am at 3000 RPM... (really needs a 6th gear). In city driving isn't much better but overall I average about 29 mpg cruising on the freeway and 23 in the city. Overall I highly recommend the car but I don't recommend it for a teen because of it's power (18 years old at minimum). Most TC accidents I've seen has been a naive teenager showing off which ends up in a chaotic mess in the end and that is the reason why the TC is a bit more expensive to insure.

    EDIT
  • I strongly recommend Chevron Techron concentrated fuel cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-67740-CASE-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893O

  • The Techron fuel cleaner has improved my cars performance by clearing up all the shit in the fuel system, valves, and combustion chambers. Usually a sign your car needs Techron is when it idles rougly and when you turn on the AC. Another sign is the throttle not being really responsive (Techron really improved my throttle response!)

  • Not sure if the MPG improvement is snakeoil or not but so far my gas gauge hasn't dropped like a rock while commuting on the freeway.
u/apexwarrior55 · 4 pointsr/cars

Yes,I was referring to the diagnostic. This is the kind of fuel I'm talking about:https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Complete-System-Cleaner/dp/B000CPI5Z0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537991475&sr=8-2&keywords=redline+fuel+system+cleaner

It has made my idling very smooth on the Avalon,although your 2015 Lincoln shouldn't have any rough idling issues.It's too young for that.

u/93legend · 3 pointsr/Hyundai

The fuel additive they add is the stuff that comes in top tier fuel anyways.

This is the stuff they try to sell you at the dealership.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hyundai-00232-19047-Complete-Cleaner/dp/B00AKYOH8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478750437&sr=8-1&keywords=hyundai+fuel+system+cleaner

This is the exact same stuff for 1/4 the price and can be bought at any Wal-Mart or parts stores.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/16647989?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227025239943&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=71545448329&wl4=pla-161071186849&wl5=9030015&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16647989&wl13=&veh=sem

The only difference is they Hyundai fluid has the word Hyundai on the bottle, otherwise it is the exact same stuff. If you use Top Tier gas like Quick Trip or Exxonmobil it comes with the stuff in the gas already.

If you do end up needing the Techron additive its pretty easy to use just get your tank to empty, dump the bottle into the tank, and then fill the tank. Easy peeze.

u/bastinka · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

I did try some fuel injector cleaner, found here. I forgot to mention that, my bad!

u/carefulwhatyawish4 · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

change oil every 5k-7.5k miles. check your oil, coolant, and tires every 1-2k just to make sure you're not burning/leaking anything. if you have a small leak, like a quarter sized drops of oil after parking, just add oil every now and then. if it's a major leak you will know, and you will need to get it fixed properly.

non oem brake pads are cheaper but they WILL squeak.

put a cap full of this in your gas tank when you fill up after each oil change.

get an ob2 bluetooth scanner off amazon as well. give it to a friend when you get your Tesla lol.

if you're REALLY penny pinching, major service is usually the timing belt or chain, but most engines these days are non-interference. what this means is that if the timing belt snaps you will NOT cause a ton of damage despite many mechanics telling you otherwise. you can put it off for tens of thousands of miles, you just gotta be careful. keep an eye out for noises coming from the engine bay, and misfire codes. and one day you may need to hitch a ride while your car gets towed lol.

u/b1jdm · 2 pointsr/Hyundai



Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner - 12 oz.

by Amazon.com

Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCOL3I/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_FvKmDb2PMQDDQ

u/professor__doom · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

"clean the fuel system and flush"

Unless they're removing the injectors and running them through an injector cleaning machine (strongly doubt it), I suspect they're just dumping a $13 bottle of Techron in the tank and charging you $180 for it.

The Mazda3 does not have a replaceable fuel filter. So unless they're dropping the tank, removing the pump, and replacing the filter mesh (which would probably cost well over $180), they're absolutely fleecing you. I suggest finding a different shop.

BTW, the fact that the Mazda3 doesn't have a replaceable fuel filter (just a mesh screen in the tank) should stand as encouragement to use Techron or a similar fuel cleaner additive at every oil change.

u/pasimp44 · 2 pointsr/f150
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/E30

Red Line RED60103 15 Ounce Complete Si-1 Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPI5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EU6PDb8WV4FQM

I used this to narrow down my issue to whether it was just carbon after all the work, turns out it was just carbon and my injectors being a little dirty

u/lulzchicken · 1 pointr/prius

You're doing a good job. I'm the only owner of my 2010 prius. Got it with 3 miles. One of the first ones to hit the US soil. Besides oil changes, tire rotations, filter changes, wipers, etc... I haven't done anything special. I did get the trans fluid drained and replaced around 60K and the brake fluid replaced a little after that probably.

If you want to keep your internals clean run a bottle of Techron through your car once every 5K miles or so. https://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E/ pour it into your gas tank before filling up and let it do its job. You can find it at Walmart or any auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Complete-System-Cleaner/dp/B000CPI5Z0/ This is better but I can't find it anywhere locally and have to order it.

I don't think it really matters, but people say to use these before oil changes so any gunk that is broken up from using them will be removed when the oil is changed. I don't think that matters though since it gets thrown out of the exhaust anyway.

Good luck!

u/MoneyIsTiming · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Hopefully you change your oil earlier than normal, regardless of synthetic. I change my turbo oils at 40-50% life, these cars are abused.

Darker new oil is somehwat expected after the change, when you drain the oil there is still old oil in passages and crevices.

My anecdote on insta-black new oil is that it's more common on turbo cars; anyone else?

Royal Purple 11722 Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer - 20 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1VBQRS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_OWCsybS22VA6T

u/realmp06 · 1 pointr/kia

I would recommend going by what the owner manuel says to do at 75k miles. As far as the Thermostat and Gasket, I would remove those from the list as those are typically on the maintenance list of things to do, however, it wouldn't hurt to have them inspected. As far as the air and cabin filter, those you can do on your own, just look up a couple of Youtube videos, it'll take you all but ten minutes, save you money. As far as the complete fuel, I presume you mean by a fuel line clean. I would start now, and every 10k miles, just add Royal Purple Fuel Cleaner, this will help clean out the fuel lines and I've always found it to work better than seafoam (I started this at 30k miles). When you add it, do it after an oil change and when your tank is near empty. Coolant, transmission flush, drive belt, I would get done. Clamps, have them inspected, and have the Upper and Lower Radiator Hose Inspected, they are designed to last at least 100k miles.

Finally, I wouldn't take it to the Kia dealership, I would have the mechanic to above said things, it'll be easier on the wallet :)

u/teckademics · 1 pointr/BMW

Not certified but I've been working bimmers for my for most of my life, and from the video you're right, it does sound like the n52 tick, however I've never heard a tick like this in the n55. I figured it would of been resolved. I would throw a bottle of Techron in it with a full fill up of 93, wait a week and put another bottle of Techron in it in your next fill up, in addition make sure both techron fill ups are 93. Don't skimp on anything, make sure it's Techron or other may suggest redline is ok to use in BMWs. Techron and Redline are essentially fuel, lifter and injector cleaners, just buy the bottle and dump it in with a full tank of gas. If after a month it's still there I would take it to the dealer if it's still in warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1398443713&sr=1-1&keywords=chevron+techron

u/achtagon · 1 pointr/Honda

I second the 40PSI tires, new plugs, wires, rotor, air filter, and maybe a few tanks of injector cleaner. Most is snake oil but this brand has some science and mechanic support http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

Edit: Oh - and play with lighter weight oils like 0w-30. Just watch to be sure it's not burning it too fast.

u/dsatrbs · 1 pointr/kia

Techron Concentrate Plus: https://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

It's also sold as KIA part# UM011 CH056, as a 12oz bottle. Just get the 20oz for same price (or cheaper) and use the whole thing.

u/Racer-X- · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I was going to suggest fuel filter, but it looks like that one has only the screen in the tank, no filter in the line going to the engine.

Before worrying too much, I'd run a bottle of "Techron complete fuel system cleaner" through it. https://amzn.com/B00092893E (not because you should buy it there, but for a picture of what you'll be looking for at your FLAPS or discount store (Walmart, etc.). The only other cleaner I'd consider would be BG 44K, but that's harder to find and a lot more expensive. Do not use any cleaner with alcohol in it (SeaFoam in particular), as that can cause more problems than it solves.

Vacuum leaks (like intake gaskets) tend to make it run lean at idle and low load (high vacuum) conditions, not at full throttle.

u/TacoTrade · 1 pointr/e46

You could try a fuel injector cleaner before anything else. I've heard many people say it fixes their fuel level gauge, and in addition, cleans your injectors.

Most recommend this brand - Chevron Techron - https://www.amazon.com/Chevron-Techron-Concentrate-System-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

u/LagunaGTO · 1 pointr/chicago

NOTE: To all those that have bought gas at a bad station and are not experiencing problems so far. Do yourself and your car a favor anyways and first, go change the oil. Second, run a bottle of Techron through your fuel.

LINKY - Go pick it up at Autozone however, so you can get it done faster.