Best fuel system tools according to redditors

We found 58 Reddit comments discussing the best fuel system tools. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Fuel System Tools:

u/Hanginon · 20 pointsr/news

"...check them about once a week (with soapy water)"

Soapy water will bubble, somewhat, but if you're working where it absolutely has to not leak, (like gas on a boat) I would bring it up a notch and use something engineered for the job. I worked for years with nuclear robotics and when a failure is diastrous, (like equipment failure while working in the core) this is what we used.

u/Transmissionmech · 6 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You have a blown head gasket.

I'm guessing the first mechanic that showed you the turkey baster looking thing was using this:

To check for combustion gasket leaks.

If you were a gallon low on anti freeze and you haven't been seeing it leak anywhere that means the head gasket has blown and is allowing anti freeze to get into the oil.

Your car has no heat because the antifreeze runs through the heater core to heat the car. Which you had none in the heater core.

The car is running hot from low coolant. Because it's all going where it's not supposed to be going.

u/LeonAquilla · 6 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You do know there's a kit for that that costs like 30$ right

u/letmeholdadolla · 4 pointsr/infiniti

Before you go paying the dealer to check into it further there are multiple things you can check yourself before you go jumping straight to a head gasket issue. First of all, it is highly unlikely you are dealing with a head gasket failure unless you've had issues in the past with overheating or are experiencing any problems, other than smell, while driving. At 50000km your head gasket is still very much brand new. Also there is not one simple way to diagnose a head gasket problem as there are multiple different ways one can fail. Head gaskets can commonly fail in 6 different ways causing completely different symptoms. As for you and your possible coolant issue, blown head gaskets are not always followed by coolant issues and coolant issues are not always caused by head gasket failures.

Coolant, power steering, and ATF all have similar smells when they burn. With very small amounts of any fluid it's unlikely you'll see any smoke whether it's from the engine bay or exhaust, but you can still smell it of course. Smoke becomes noticeable when larger amounts are being burnt off.

The best thing to so is jack the car up and get underneath and see of you can find any evidence of leaks that could be burning off the block or exhaust itself. Check around all hoses, coolers, water pump, thermostat housing, transmission lines, etc. Also try to see if you can smell anything from the actual exhaust when you're car is idling.

Also simply pull your dipstick and check the color of your oil. Certain head gasket failures can cause coolant to get into the oil making your oil turn milky, however, this can be caused by blown intake gaskets as well.

Without evidence of any leaks, next you'll want to rule out any blockage in any fluid lines including the radiator itself. Even being a 2009, it can be simply caused by broken down coolant burning off due to it losing it's temperature resistance. Service intervals call for a coolant flush every 5 years/100k miles. Yes, typically coolant has a longer life than that but there are exceptions. The low reservoir could be signs of your coolant being "worn out".
Nissan introduced "blue" coolant in 2009 and not all vehicles came with blue so your coolant is either blue or green. A quick color check can help determine how fresh it is but is a very rough test. If it's blue, it should still have a noticeable royal blue color to it. If it's green, it should be fairly bright almost neon looking. As coolant deteriorates it gets dark and murky, so any evidence of that and that could likely be where your issue lies. The best way to test your coolant is to check it's pH level. Any pH test strips will do and can be found at most drug stores. Good coolant has a pH level of 8-10 and you want to replace coolant before it drops below 7.0 as it starts to become corrosive to your cooling system. If this is the case, a simple coolant flush and thermostat replacement will solve your problems.

If no problems are still found you can do a hydrocarbon test to check for head gasket combustion leaks. Lisle makes a tester that can be had for $30 on Amazon and is very simple to use. It uses a special fluid that reacts and changes colors due to hydrocarbon vapors from your exhaust which can bleed into the coolant system due to certain head gasket failures.

Hopefully this will give you a place to start. If you find anything else or have any questions just let me know.

u/snowdrif · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

find something to slip under the hose, they have special picks for this but really anything will do. Bend the end of a cheap spoon or something.

That's what they look like.

u/BottomFeedersDelight · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

I have a few. They're use primarily for the automotive industry.

Lisle 22850 Hose Pincher

u/MinnesotaTemp · 4 pointsr/cars

Have the Subaru inspected by a good mechanic for head gasket leaks (internal and external leaking signs). A leakdown test is a good test for them to do, and ask if they can try the radiator hydrocarbon test as an option, also known as a Combustion Leak Detector test.

Also, find out when the timing belt & water pump replacement was done last -- if it hasn't then you'd have to plan on it soon as the replacement schedule is at 105k miles. If the belt snaps all your valves will bend = trashed motor.

u/Engrish__Prease · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

Since you mentioned that it happens when you get off the interstate, this makes me think it's fan related since you obviously have more airflow through the radiator on the freeway....But you confirmed that the fans are operating correct.

In your previous post, you said you had the coolant tested and the head gasket tested. I assume the coolant system was pressure tested but how exactly was the head gasket tested to determine it's ok?

I've had head gaskets fail where the coolant system held pressure just fine but it was rather the cylinder combustion pressure pushing combustion gasses into the coolant system. This introduces air into the coolant system causing the overheating. A combustion leak tester like this is what I've used.

u/Dirty_Old_Town · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Agreed. Or a chemical tester.

u/_Riddle · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

I have the exact same motor. The only belt you have to remove is the serpentine belt and thats easy to do. You just need to pull the tensioner back with a box ended wrench and use a nail (I used an allen key) to lock it in place.

I was fairly hesitant when I did it a few weeks ago, but looking back now, it was easy. I can do a video for you on removing the serpentine belt if it would help you. Once the alternator is off (held in place by 2 bolts) its just disconnecting hoses. The serpentine belt isn't like a timing belt. It can come off on and on with no special treatment and wont wreck the car.

Are you getting the P2181 code on your car and having issues with the temperature gauge getting to 200f? I was with mine.

Heres the DIY guide I used to do mine. Also, get a hose pick to help with stubborn hoses. It also helps with removing the locking rings for the throttle body pipe and lower radiator hose. One of those little extendable magnets and magnetic trays are also invaluable. Hopefully some of that helps. Its definitely worth it to save the money over taking to a shop/dealer.

u/cerealmodem · 2 pointsr/battlewagon

Get the radiator up in the air so the gas goes to the fill neck.

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Either get a chain brush with nylon bristles, or else use an old rag. Apply chain specific cleaner, or else kerosene, or WD-40 to the chain and cleaning tool, scrub the chain. If you haven't touched the chain in a while, you'll probably want to spend around 10 minutes working on cleaning it up. After that, you can either use chain lube or chain wax. Either is fine, it doesn't really matter which you use. Wax does tend to make less of a mess, at least as far as I've noticed.

If you want specific products, here's a chain cleaner,
here's a brush,
and here's chain wax

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

The lines are incredibly easy to replace.

  1. Remove filter box and electric fan
  2. Use a Fuel Line Quick Disconnect tool to remove the radiator-side hoses. You can buy these or similar kits at the parts store
  3. Squeeze the plastic tabs together on the transmission side and gently yank out
  4. Transfer the old QD tabs to the new cooler lines
  5. lube both ends with petroleum jelly and reinstall. The new hoses are seated properly when you feel a click
u/annoymaniac · 2 pointsr/Mustang

You can change the fuel filter extremely easy. If you are skinny and the car isn't dropped, you can change it without jacking the car up. You will need these:

and of course a new filter, which is cheap.

u/iBody · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

If your coolant level is fluctuating too much take it to a shop, or use [a kit like this](Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector It will tell you if there are any combustion gasses in your coolant. If there are, I'm sorry.

u/therealdarkcirc · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/JuicyStalin · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Well essentially TREC's stance on the matter (considering they own our license) is that you should not speak out of your area of expertise. There are kind of ways around it however.

For mold:

TREC would say that mold falls under environmental hazards, which is explicitly outside of our Standards of Practice. Are you a biologist? What qualifications do you have to identify fungus? You're licensed to perform structural/mechanical inspections, not environmental. The most we can do as inspectors is call it discoloration in our report, and I personally will tell the people what it is on site if I see it and what they should do about it. (another reason why we always recommend clients be present at the time of inspection)

In reality it's because there are millions of different types of mold and only a few are the toxic kinds that make people's hair stand on the back of their neck. Inspectors in Texas kind of are the whipping post of realtors, and they don't want us freaking out their clients too bad. I can kind of see where they're coming from because you can't identify it without sending actual samples to the lab, but it's that kind of bullshit that arises when you charge the TEXAS REAL ESTATE COMMISSION with the task of regulating home inspectors. I could go on for hours about that alone, but it's very esoteric and boring.

Just a little tip to make yourself sound smart btw, you should call it a fungus, since all molds are fungus but not all fungus are molds. People will be impressed!

For termites:

Kind of the same thing as mold, except that WDI reports were (not so much now but still significant) big business and pest control guys do not want to give up that business. It's actually not that hard to get licensed to do WDI reports, and I was thinking about getting it so we don't have to contract out ours anymore. However when I would do a termite inspection I would be acting outside of my inspectors license and under my Pest Control license.

What we do, and this might even be skirting TREC a bit is note Possible wood destroying insects were observed at [location] on our report. It really is pretty stupid considering we look at the same exact stuff as termite guys. Buuuttt you need your license to be able to call a termite a termite officially.


This one I actually agree with. You don't really need to hire an electrician to come out and switch out a plug receptacle, but unless you have your HVAC license and the proper tools you really shouldn't get into the guts of it. You can fuck a lot of stuff up in there if you don't know what you're doing (and a lot of inspectors don't even though Texas has by far the highest barrier to entry and requirements than any other state).

I'll be the first to admit, the 'test' we can run on the HVAC system is a mediocre test at best (it's a temperature differential, seeing how the air temperature changes as it blows across the coils). What we generally tell clients with older units is that an HVAC unit needs to be serviced once a year, and to call an HVAC guy out there to service it and he can tell you a whole lot more about the unit then we can. We still look at the duct work, the condenser, etc. etc., but as far as the actual refrigerant and such, again, you can really fuck stuff up big time if you don't know what you're doing and start pulling stuff apart.

BTW, you can't test the heat on a heat pump in summer, just the emergency heat. Though the 'heater' part of a heat pump is only a reversing valve, and those generally don't mess up.

Also, you should always use an inspector that owns a combustible gas detector. That way they can check the air registers when the heater is on (if it's a gas heater) for any leaks. In Texas you are not required to carry one, but don't go with an inspector (or anything in life really) that only does the bare minimum of what they are required.

Also, in that same vein ask a potential inspector if they carry a moisture meter. It's not required but it's another good indicator to use to see if they are a CYA inspector or an actual decent one. You'd be surprised how many don't because they don't want to 'explain why they didn't use it on every ceiling in front of a jury'. I would argue that the best defense is to not have to go in front of juries in the first place.

Damn this comment got long, sorry if it gets a bit rambling in some parts...

EDIT: Also here's a link to the TREC Standards of Practice if you're interested:$ext.ViewTAC?tac_view=5&ti=22&pt=23&ch=535&sch=R&rl=Y

u/verbthatnoun · 2 pointsr/cars

Get yourself one of these

Don't waste your time and money on a timing belt/water pump just yet.

This model of Honda is common for head gasket failures, in the exact same way you described. I had the very same issue happen with my 2005 Civic, which basically is the same car.

it was slowly loosing coolant because it was getting past the exhaust seal of the head gasket and blowing out the combustion chamber, the car would also misfire usually on a cold startup, then run just fine, I was able to drive the car like this for a few weeks by just bleeding the cooling system, but eventually it got so bad that the excess exhaust pressure would blow back through the cooling system and cause coolant to leak from the radiator cap. The reason why there is no puddles under the engine is because its blowing by the exhaust and going through the exhaust system, on a cold start you probably will see some coolant come out of the muffler. The longer you let this go, the more likely its going to damage the catalyst

when you get the head gasket done, make sure the water pump, and timing belt get done, its a no brainer to have this done while the head is off the engine anyway.

My indie shop did the whole shebang for about $1200, I got a deal.

u/186394 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Okay. I'm not a doctor so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I say get some of this, or similar. Whatever you can find near you. I had a bad leak last year on my old car and that fixed it.

u/skookum1 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

If it's been an Oregon vehicle all its life there won't be any rust, we don't salt the roads here. One thing that will be needed to replace the fuel filter is a disconnect tool like this:

For the handtools I would go to sears and buy a craftsman set instead. You can walk in with broken tools without a receipt and get replacements for free no questions asked. I haven't used duralast but I imagine craftsman to be better quality

Doing the plugs and wires, only do one at a time so there is no way to get the firing order mixed up. Same thing with the brakes, this way if you get mixed up you can refer to the other wheel.

Sorry if you already mentioned this but:


u/TrouserPudding · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

"One of the two by the engine isn't really specific enough". What are you looking at? Do you have a picture?

Chances are high that the answer to you question is to buy this:

But I can't be sure without more info.

u/tarragon_man · 2 pointsr/HVAC

You may be able to find the leak yourself. It is not hard. Get yourself this blue leak reactant and look for bubbles around every fitting and cap.

Sometimes it is as easy as tightening a fitting or a cap that is over a Schraeder valve.

Get a little inspection mirror and work slowly with good light. Check the fittings on the expansion valve which is on the evaporator (inside unit) and the service valves that are on the condensor (outside unit).

Remember that the contractor would much rather sell you a new unit than repair what you have, because that is where the money is.

Your machine can run long after R22 is gone. There are replacement refrigerants like Dupont Isceon MO99.

I will laugh when the people that are hoarding R22 and have bought it at stupid prices, hoping to gouge the next person get to eat it because the R22 machines are finally worn out.

u/oshaCaller · 2 pointsr/cars

It's not that hard to figure out a blown head gasket. Remove the radiator cap/resevoir cap and start the car. If you see bubbles coming out, it's probably blown. If you put your hand over the hole and it rapidly builds pressure, it's REALLY blown.

You don't want the car to run long enough to get hot and possibly burn you, when you're doing this.

We use this tool to be sure, the fluid will change colors if it's exhaust gas:

u/IWetMyselfForYou · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I recommend these instead. Notice how they're notched where they open? That lets you slide them over the line without fighting to hold them open(and pinching your finger). Really nice for tighter spaces.

u/hot_pepper_is_hot · 1 pointr/livesound

Stop Leak for PA system.

u/rockytimber · 1 pointr/subaru

last time I had a head gasket failure, I could see there was water in the oil, which came from the antifreeze. of course this was final stage, though the car remained driveable for a short time. but its possible it could have been detectable chemically before it was detectable visibly.

u/brandon_najarian2 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I just did a head gasket on a 98 Accord, and the coolant was gushing like a gyser out of the top of the radiator. Also, you could literally hear the compression leaking past the gasket and out the side where the head and block meet. Like everyone else has said, you most likely blew the head gasket, but you can't be positive over the internet. If you want to know for sure, they sell testers online, but its still a little difficult to use these if coolant is splashing out of the top of the radiator. Anyway, good luck!and remember, when in doubt, tow it out.

u/sheepjeepxj · 1 pointr/Jeep
  1. release the fuel line pressure by putting some rags under the fuel rail and pressing on the schrader valve on the fuel rail, there might me a retaining clip holding the two pop it off with a screwdriver

  2. use a ac / fuel line disconnect tool and pop off the fuel line from the fuel rail

  3. undo the nuts holding the fuel rail down

  4. remove the injector wires from the injectors (mark them so you put them back in the right order and remove any clips holding the injector to the rail

  5. pull up evenly and wiggle on the fuel rail, some injectors will come out with the rail some will stay with the manifold

  6. wiggle out the injectors from the manifold or fuel rail and fish for any o rings that didn't come off with the injectors.
u/DJStuey · 1 pointr/subaru

You could try one of these test kits:

DISCLAIMER: Never used one, not affiliated in any way, etc.

my Late '06 Forester is at the Mechanics getting Head Gaskets done right now. it's almost enough to make me not want another Subaru..... Almost.

u/BigShowSJG · 1 pointr/autorepair

That ford uses plastic lines. Go to a part store (a rear one. Not autozone) and get a cheap fuel line to get the clip. Remove fuse for fuel pump, then start the car and let it die. Turn off key. Your system is now de pressurized. Put the fuse back when the job is complete.

This is the special disconnect tool.

u/Who_GNU · 1 pointr/OSHA

I'll use the Grime Minister while the bike is idling, because if it gets caught in the chain, all I lose is a $3 tool.

I don't get how someone could think it sensible to wrap a rag around the chain and hold it there with their hand, but some people do it, and some people lose fingers.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Cartalk

They sell test kits like this one that you use. Here's a video to explain things.

Visually, dried antifreeze usually shows up as a white flakey residue.

u/surge_of_vanilla · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

I only used the pre-fill. It was hard to get on board with the "pump will suck the PAG and you'll need to add more" rationale because where would the excess PAG then go in a closed system? I assumed excess PAG would be distributed throughout the system. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe I'll do this again next year, but for now everything has been blowing cold. Tip: absolutely have a disconnect tool for this job.

u/Civicricer · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice
u/imprl59 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Could be a bad radiator cap allowing the system to over pressurize. Could also be a head gasket pumping air in to the system. Could just be a poorly maintained old cooling system that's falling apart.

Something like this may help you rule out a head gasket problem.

u/ableleague · 1 pointr/TheBrewery

This stuff has been great for finding small leaks around connections/fittings:

u/z350_stillens · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Yea, you can knock it out in a couple of hours. I saw videos where they modified caps of Sharpie marker to disconnect the fuel lines. I messed up my lines trying that way. They sell the disconnect tool at auto part stores also (

IMO I like to try the least expensive fix and work my way up. Good luck!

u/Peepismycat · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Clamp the hose with a special tool or I've used needle nose locking pliers to reduce fluid loss. Bleed air from hose after replacement. I use these!

Lisle 22850 Hose Pincher

u/Echelon64 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Before you get this kit though:

-Pull out the spark plugs and see if they are wet or moist in any way. If so, you got a bad head gasket and/or a bad intake manifold gasket.

-When you run the car in normal temps (not freezing) does the exhaust come out white?

-If you got time, dump the oil and if there's water or coolant in there you got a bad gasket.

-Check for pressure in the coolant system. You can rent a coolant system pressure tester from your local autoparts store for a deposit (which is refunded to you after you return it) and test for leaks in the coolant system.

u/iamnotcreativeDET · 1 pointr/cars

sounds like the head gasket.

you probably can sniff the exhaust after driving it and smell coolant coming from there. Its also trashing the catalytic converter by running coolant through it.

The gasket fails on the exhaust side of the gasket, coolant wont leak into the oil, nor will it blow blue smoke because its usually a very slow leak, the system will hold pressure, and depending upon how bad the gasket is you may not see any major symptoms.

As the gasket fails more what you will get is a little bit of coolant will leak into the combustion chamber(s) if it sits overnight, then on cold start it will misfire or idle funny for about 2 or 3 seconds, then it will smooth itself out.

This is a good home tester, you put the chemical into the tube and hold it over the radiator cap, if the fluid changes yellow from blue that means exhaust gas is getting into the coolant. This was how I determined what was wrong with my civic.

Had the head gasket done about 12K miles ago and haven't had any issues since. The shop resurfaced the head, did the timing belt and water pump along with a fresh set of spark plugs and a new serpentine belt to the tune of about $1200.

u/BajingoWhisperer · 1 pointr/Miata

Bubbling in the Reservoir points to blown head gasket. test with something like this just be happy that head gaskets are pretty easy to do in miatas

u/Ru5tybike5 · 1 pointr/Diesel

Keep in mind that the regular combustion leak test fluid for gasoline vehicles doesn't work for diesels. You will have to get something like this to check it.

u/93sr20det · 0 pointsr/auto

Easiest way to bleed the cooling system is this.

If you want to check your head gasket this is an easy way.

u/nabeel_co · 0 pointsr/mechanics

Are you SURE it's not a blown headgasket? Sometimes it's really hard to tell and the only symptom is airbubbles in the cooling system.

It might be worth waiting for the car to cool down, getting a combustion leak test kit, and sampling the gasses in the rad when the car is running but cold.

Something like this: