Best gardening axes according to redditors

I would have to kindly disagree. The BIFL part of a traditional axe head is that you can easily rehang(replace the handle) it yourself. What if Fiskars stops honoring their policy like so many other "BIFL" brands? Then you be stuck up shit creek without paddle. Give me a piece of wood and a rasp and I can make a handle in less than an hour.

The other gripe I have about the Fiskars (I own one myself) is that they vehemently tell you to never use the back end as a striking tool. It makes since, once you realize how the head is attached to the handle, and this to me takes away half the use of the tool. That said, it hasn't stopped me from using the back end for striking in a pinch, just not something you should be doing with it.

EDIT: If you want to downvote me, please entertain me with reasons why I am wrong. I hand make tools and use them a lot. I have used these type of axes as well as traditional ones and I feel like my arguments are sound based on first hand experience.

EDIT #2: Checked out Fiskars website on their warranty info. It appears that all axes sold now are covered for 25 years. I wouldn't consider that BIFL in my book. What happens is the plastic in the handle breaks down after time and exposure. Eventually it will break. Fiskars is betting that will be more than 25 years down the road.

EDIT#3: In spirit of what this is is all about, I would recommend a Husqvarna in any size and style with a wooden handle. They are Swedish made, and use a traditional design, allowing the purchaser to replace the handle. If you don't care to make a replacement handle yourself, they can be bought for less than $10 at any hardware store or on Amazon.

There are a ton of axes out there that fit your profile straight out of the box. You're just looking for a European style forest axe.

This is your best "budget" option.

These

are

some

... pricier options.

Don't ruin a perfectly fine American axe trying to replicate a European axe. There's no reason for it.

As for whether your design is good for "camp tasks," well, that depends. You'd need to define some things.

1. What kind of camping? Are you driving out or hiking? If you're driving out, don't fuck around. Bring a full sized axe.
   
   
2. What kind of "camp tasks" are you going to be doing? If you're just going to be limbing for smaller firewood, then even a hatchet will do you well. If you're going to be felling, bucking and splitting whole trees, then car or hike you're better off with a full sized axe. Bucking is a ton of work and a heavier axe helps the tool do the work rather than your arms. If you watch this dude's axe content, you'll see that even he (who prefers smaller axes) does note that you really have to whip smaller axes to get the same effect as a larger axe.
   
   
3. What kind of wood are you working with? If you're working with tough hardwoods, American axes are made to deal with that type of wood better than European/Scandinavian axes that are mostly tooled towards pines and other soft woods.
   
   
4. How much experience do you have with using axes? American axe patterns tend to be a little more forgiving of bad technique since they're bulkier and often not hardened quite as much. (They're still heat treated, but a softer edge is easier to sharpen though it does dull faster.) European axes tend to be a bit harder, but that means they're harder to sharpen and if you chip them (say, on an overstrike or an imperfection in the tree) they're much harder to work out.

• I am loving my mora companion with the stainless blade for $11 (amazon prime). Beats my $13 Old Hickory knife for utility and comes with it's own sheath. (Prior comment) with suggested mods.
  
  
• Disposable lighter, either Clipper (preferred, but hard to find except on Amazon) or a BIC or something. Get something translucent or white so you can see the fluid level. (prior comment about clipper lighters)
  
  
• Zippo Lighter used as a backup, spare flint storage, and the ability to use scavenged fuels. It lights in extreme cold where butane can fail. To make it practical, you really need to do the inner-tube mod. (Far North Bushcraft and Survival) Even then, expect a filling to only last 4-6 months before it evaporates. (BTW most lighter "tricks" will shorten the life of the hinge, and you still need to pay shipping one-way to get it fixed for free, buy a fidget spinner instead.)
  
  
• I'm enjoying my 40oz Ozark Trails insulated mug from Walmart (walmart.com) (~$12? I've forgotten already) The vacuum insulation is good enough to keep ice frozen overnight. You can also rehydrate ramen noodles and other dehydrated things in it by adding boiling water. While it's my constant companion, it's not ultra-light. Totally a knockoff of RTIC and Yeti, and yet it's a quality product that survived a lot of abuse. (prior Post about a year ago I guess I've had mine for at least 18 months.
  
  
• I carry an inexpensive Vaughan SH2 22-Ounce Carpenters Half Hatchet (Amazon link for photo only, buy where you wish.) I saw these on closeout at Walmart. It did not come that sharp, but no real complaints otherwise. A curved cutting edge would work better for most bushcraft duties, but flat is better if you need what amounts to a really wide chisel. It's common to find these and hatchets for sale cheap with a broken handle, this style is easy to carve a replacement for if you're into that.
  
  
• Cheap emergency only mylar "space" blankets (Amazon again), though to be honest, the original reason I bought them was to reduce solar gain through home windows (mist window with water, squeege on cut space blanket, remove before winter when you want the heat, save for next year) They're less than $2 each when you buy about 10 and they work as ground cloths, tarps, and fire reflectors. Super light weight.
  
  ----
  Edit: expand and add more links
  

Wetterlings and Gransfors Brux are the considered by many to be some of the best axes and hatchets you can buy (and they certainly cost enough!).

However, on the more normally priced, but still higher-end of things, you can safely get an Estwing, Fiskars, or Condor - with the edge going to Condor for being the most 'traditional' of those more normal priced hatchets.

Of those that I listed, I own the Estwing and Fiskars, as the others have just been out of my price range. I like them both very much. Over time, the finish on the leather handle of the Estwing will crack and flake, which is probably likely due to sun exposure - you will need to maintain the handle a bit eventually. The Fiskars, though definitely the most modern looking - are quite awesome hatchets for the price, and are incredibly durable. It's edge might be a little more fragile (it's just an angle thing, you could probably reprofile it if you were desperate) than the Estwing, but it cuts a little better too - you just have to avoid rocks (as you should be anyways).

Jesus. Are they for backwoods hipsters or something?

I'm just sad that somewhere somebody has spent that much on an unknown-quality axe instead of a fine piece of steel like a Gränsfors Bruks...which would still be about half as much.

CRKT Chogan Tomahawk:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I04Q7LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P9pEzb857T61B

With this sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M7H0LT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.-pEzb5E6JBR0

an axe, and
[something to sharpen the axe](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ASUL4I
)

u/abr646, I am messaging you, per the rules of the subreddit, that there are better deals on this item available here, here, here, here, and,finally, for 60% less than available at demarcko,here.

Per the rules of the sub, you can now change your listing to reflect the better prices available literally anywhere else this product is sold.

Thanks!

We have almost-literal pickaxes called a pulaski but that's mostly for wildland stuff. Usually it's the halligan coupled with a flat fire axe that we use to bust down doors (we call it "forcable entry").

The pointy fire axe, I use mostly on roof work. It's great to stab a hole with the pointy end and use it as a foot-hold while I'm cutting with a saw.

But, really, a fire department kind of follows the "improvise, adapt, overcome" logic - I've used rocks to bust open windows back in the day when aggressive venting like that was what we did.

I've busted doors down and had fire come out of the door when I've made my mark - but we try to bust them in such a way that as soon as I open it, I can close it right away. Control it, so that when I go in with my partner to search the hose-line team can follow and actually put the fire out. There is a lot of science around how the air flows INTO a fire and how controlled openings can make or break a fire attack effort. (I'm often assigned to search and rescue.) My oddest case was where we arrived on a house that had frozen - the water from the 3rd floor broken pipe had leaked all down the back. So I had to chop through about 12" of ice before trying to break the door down to get into the basement. (To shut the water off/search for people.)

I was new. Very new. I got the ice cleared. Started working on the door in the usual manner - and then it just wouldn't fucking budge. Just ... it was old and STILL it wouldn't open. I'm pushed aside by a 25+ year veteran who says, "look kid, I'll teach you something." He kicks the opposite side of the door (hinge side) and it just... falls in. Like... totally opens. Turns out the homeowner had been installing extra door locks in an effort to keep the old door from falling in... so I had my work cut out for me on that side. Fast forward a good 10 years and I did almost the same teaching moment thing another new guy in a very similar scenario. "Pay it forward" I suppose.

Destruction magic - shit if I could use it to force entry I totally would. I'm big on "try before you pry" because often a window right next to the door is open anyway... and I'm thin so I can get in that way. But sometimes I'm also lazy. If I could just fus-ro-dah and get that door down.. I'd love it.

Buy yourself a decent hatchet. Better than a hawk for processing wood and a hatchet will have a far more substantial poll for use as a pounding implement (No striking steel on steel though!). If you are determined to have an actual hammer head, you should look into a Carpenter's Half Hatchet(aka a shingling hatchet)


In all of my time in the outdoors, I have never found any need for a pry bar. Digging sticks and wood levers? Absolutely. Pry bar? Nope.

These are great bang for the buck hand forged in sweden. A real top notch axe at a great price. Husqvarna

Gransfors Bruks aslo make BIFL axes but at a bit higher price point. You can also check out Axe junkies.com if you really want to nerd ou on axes. Rumor has it the Husky axes are forged by Granfors.

CRKT Woods Chogan Tomahawk

Use it every week for splitting oak, walnut, pine, avocado, and pinion.

edit: Link

If you wanted to buy one

This: https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926301-13-Wooden-Hatchet/dp/B00HC077GQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3SVRD231HFH5J&keywords=husqvarna+hatchet&qid=1556040217&s=gateway&sprefix=husqvarna+ha&sr=8-2

They're on sale right now! (At the risk of people shitting on me for being a shill or something, here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Core-Maul-Inch-751110-1003/dp/B014M9LQGG?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_D_6f16d5df_61&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER )

I have the husqvarna 26" axe which is made by hults bruks. It has been a fantastic axe and keeps its edge very well. I also have a gransfors bruks axe and the quality of the husqvarna is nearly identical.

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

Marbles camp axe or the Husqvarna hatchet

Vaughan carpenter hatchet

https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-22-Ounce-Carpenters-Hatchet-Treated/dp/B0002IGHAM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=vaughan+hatchet&qid=1555884173&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Cold Steel Axe Gang are my personal favorite and a favorite of most people I know unfortunately on backorder for a while

Or the Prandi


https://www.amazon.com/Prandi-German-Style-Hatchet-PRA0308TH/dp/B0742LLJ3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=2RZBM9EQLOGMX&keywords=prandi+hatchet&qid=1555884296&s=gateway&sprefix=prandi&sr=8-1

For a folder I could recommend the Ontario RAT 1.

One of the best value knives out there, awesome quality, ergos and is very usable as well - great option for a first proper knife.

As for axes - check out Husqvarna 13" hatchet.

Made in the same factory as Hiltafors and Hults Bruk but costs much less.

I like the one with the leather handle, available in the UK too!

Or the carpenter version.

Wartech XBK03GY Tactical Hammer Axe, 10" https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011HQVCRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cPJ0CbJ4N0JF1

For 100 bucks and you are after bushcrafting... I would recommend this.

Wetterlings Hatchet - 70

Mora 1 - 13

Gerber slide saw - 10

People seem to like this one which is only 40 bucks

Of course, if money were no object, I would want the on that op has haha

I do not have a hawk yet, and just recently got my first hatchet. (wetterlings) But my limited experience with my hatchet has me curious about the versatility of a hawk.

OK.

So, there are essentially three materials the ax head could be made from: Iron, Steel and Mythril.

Iron is the most fragile at about 200MPa ultimate tensile strength, Steel will range from about 500 to 2600MPa depending on composition and Mythril is estimated to be above 90,000 MPa.

Based on this screencap it looks like a pretty standard bearded ax.

The one in the link is about 30" long with a 6.6" blade width which is pretty close to what is shown on screen.

To make things easy we will say the blade is 1.2cm thick, 16.7cm wide and 18.5 cm tall.

I used this load calculator to estimate:

• 91,000 lbs of force if the ax head is Iron
  
• 225,250 to 1,171,298 lbs of force if the ax is made of Steel
  
• 40,544,928 lbs of force if the ax is made of Mythril
  
  For comparison a human swinging a sledgehammer would be around 1000-4000 lbs of force.
  
  Materials science is not my specialty so I may be way off.

Husqvarna 576926301 13" Wooden Hatchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HC077GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-qZzbR5HJ03G

If you like a pick axe you would love a Pulaski

I've been a scout camp counselor for six years and used axes of all kinds including granfors and wetterlings. The Husqvarna 26in axe is made by wetterlings and is easily the very best axe for your money. That's really all I have to say. I would also never buy a strait handled axe for actual use (apart from a double sided axe, but even they have a flared pommel). Tomahawks are a different story but they arent for doing work.

If you have any questions hit me up.

First off, I think this is the most elaborate contest I've ever participated in, so congratulations for that :P Fear cuts deeper than swords. I hope some of my items are awesome enough for some extra credit ;) Also I wasn't sure if duplicates are allowed. I will revise if necessary.

1.) Something grey and it's been on my wishlist.

2.) Rain, well not technically rain, she is a water bender :P Previously on my wishlist.

3.) Unusual, I think this is something I would use like twice a year. With ice cream or cereal.

4.) Someone else My sister and I want to start playing tabletop games. Previously on my wishlist.

5.) "Book" I took a little bit of liberty with this one because it's a graphic novel. But it's Batman, so...(Previously on my wishlist).

6.) Under a dollar.

7.) Cats There's a catbus in it, which is pretty much the best part of the movie. Previously on my wishlist.

8.) Beautiful As a Star Wars fan having the original trilogy on Blu Ray would be beautiful to me. I love high definition movies, especially ones that are aesthetically pleasing. Previously on my wishlist.

9.) Movie As a Browncoat, I would encourage anyone who has a remote interest in Sci-Fi to give this a chance. Previously on my wishlist.

10.) Zombie tool I don't think this needs explanation.

11.) (Updated) Useful for future. I have a desire to create meaningful video games. Previously on wish list.

12.) Add on I actually had this on my wishlist but removed it because add-on items are lame.

13.) Most expensive As previously stated, I want to be a game developer/designer so not only would it be fun to play with, I could create with it too. Previously on list.

14.) Bigger than breadbox Total in the box it is bigger than a breadbox. Previously on wishlist.

15.) Bigger than a golf ball It's a large book. Previously on wishlist.

16.) Smells good As a guy...I enjoy the scent of lavender.

17.) Safe for children toy I don't think this needs any introduction of why it's awesome.

18.) Back to school drawing helps keep me sane. Previously on my list.

19.) Current obsession I'm a noob to tabletop games. But have been wanting to get into it obsessively within the past month or so. And this also takes my love of A Song of Ice and Fire into the mix. Previously on list.

20.) [Amazing] (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR-65X900A-65-Inch-120Hz-Ultra/dp/B00BSREQI6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376281533&sr=8-4&keywords=4k+tv) I've seen one of these in person at the mall and it literally made me stop walking the resolution was so incredible. I know it's as expensive as dicks...but man...when these are affordable...

Bonus 2) Made in Oregon I would have put Tillamook Ice Cream, since it's pretty awesome...but alas not on Amazon.

Edit: Changed an item because I saw it won't count because it's a duplicate.

Get a Husqvarna . But if that's a BATL location they should have some cheap ones for sale. Otherwise... Go to BATL.

I got their 14" camper's axe and it's been great.

Here's the link to CRKT's website: http://www.crkt.com/woods-chogan-thawk-axe-2730

I bought mine off of Amazon from this listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04Q7LO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: is there a better sub for this post?

3. Knife Sharpening Stone Combination Dual Sided Grit With Base for Sharpening and Polishing Tool with Non Slip Base for Kitchen Knives, Hunting Knives, Pocket Knives and Tool Blades (400/1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H38Y3GL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D5dzDbP2PQNX3
   
   
4. Lansky Puck - Dual Grit Multi-Purpose Sharpener - Blade & Tool Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8FW0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.5dzDbXZ9RWB2
   
   
5. Nicholson 06706N Axe File, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006DWT7HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q6dzDbFGRVZVW
   
   I just copied what I saw in a wranglerstar YouTube vid. I purchased these three items and they will be my dedicated axe sharpening devices.

I normally clip off the pin, use a metal file to file it as flush as I can, and glue a rare earth magnet to the back using E6000 glue. The glue you can get at any craft store. You should be able to get the magnets there too. Depending on how many you want to make though these ones are probably a better deal.

They fluctuate a lot on amazon, currently there out of stock of the 28 incher and the 24 inch is a bit pricey. The highest price on Amazon is 50 but they are on sale about every week or two for 25 or so.

Council Tool 2.25 lb Boy's Axe, 24 inch Curved handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0BK13Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SuFrDbW48A0T7

Here's a pic of what it can do with some practice. I've gone up to about 2 foot diameter on pine but this was hard seasoned oak.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/clmxy9/im_about_three_months_in_to_learning_this_skill/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Most likely some kind of lacquer or varnish.

Get an axe file (like this one) and a Lansky puck. You can find a lot of great tutorials on how to sharpen an axe on youtube.

I use the splitting maul. Its awesome. My favorite tool I own. Some of my buddies think its strange I enjoy splitting wood. But this maul makes it enjoyable.

http://www.amazon.com/Gransfors-Bruks-450-Splitting-Maul/dp/B000WIOE7A

A bearded axe looks like this
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Age-Fully-Functional-Bearded/dp/B01M6C98EG

And the metal thing under the blade is useful for hooking an opponent’s shield so it can be pulled off and they can be attacked easier. For example, if you were charging at me with your shield up, I could hook my axe to the top of your shield and pull it (and you) forward faster, causing you to get off balance and perhaps fall over. This makes a counterattack easy for me. The handle just increases range
Edit- new words to clarify

this one is REALLY good! https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Handle-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467604448&sr=8-1&keywords=husqvarna+axe

A Good hatchet! https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926401-13-Curved-Hatchet/dp/B004VLKLJE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M2MACRPSRKX1VZSM8FJ2

Gerber Back paxe is what i use.

A viable alternative to the GB SFA is the Husqvarna Forest Axe. Half the cost and similar proportions to Granfors Bruks' larger Scandinavian Forest Axe.

I've got the crkt woods chogan hawk and I love it. It's a little heavier than the standard tomahawk, but I like that a lot. You end up getting a lot of chopping power in a little package.

It's a matter of what people can afford. I can buy this Gransfors Bruks axe which will last my lifetime and that of my children for $209 USD or this Truper axe for less than $28.

For some people buying the first axe might mean 1/4 of their entire paycheck which means they are living pretty slim already.

If they know they can get by with the other despite realizing they will need to replace it in 5 years they are going to buy the disposable axe.

BIFL stuff isn't for most of the "middle class". It's for people who have much more income.

If you want a great axe and not pay a crap ton for a Hultafor or Gransfors Bruks I highly recommend Husqvarna axes. They are made with Swedish steel and have decent handles. I keep a 26" Multipurpose in my vehicle and it has served me well.

I don't think all of these points can be met with just a single knife.

Any knife strong enough to be used to baton wood over and over again isn't going to be inexpensive.

Partial serrations aren't very good, and in my experience, having a half serrated and half plain edge makes the knife okay at both but great at neither.

If you were going to rely on a knife as a survival knife, wouldn't you want it to be high quality as to not have it break on you when you need it most?

My suggestion would be a small camp axe, with a separate knife used for your serrated needs. Something like this Wetterling along with a small serrated knife like this SpyderCo.

Thanks. I have this one that hopefully will work. Doesn't seem angled though

Nicholson 06706N Axe File, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006DWT7HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MB6QCbRT6QF3G

アマゾンに
なぜかオススメ
てつのおの

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00HC077GQ/

I got my dad this maul for Christmas, He loves it, it splits like a dream, if you can lift it, it does the rest

Splitting Maul!

I really like this and used it exclusively to make about 10 ft³ of kindling for this season:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HAEI1A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_f1uHDb9WX61KP

Any examples of it? I must admit I'm intrigued.

Edit: Found the culprit. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

I would highly recommend the CRKT Chogan

The x27 and I have been getting along great for more than a dozen cords of TOUGH wood (mostly eucalyptus). It is just a machine and I love it.

BTW - Fiskars has a new 8lb maul you can get instead of the sledge above. I love it for when I really find an unruly log.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Iso-Core-Maul-Inch/dp/B014M9LQGG/

Here's what I'm looking at now:

Cold Steel Trail Boss Axe, 27 Inch https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CZ9UY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ee.yDbKD8AFP2

Fiskars 378571-1002 X15 Chopping Axe 23.5", Yellow/Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BX4SBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Je.yDb7PQS6XP

Council Tool 2.25 lb Boy's Axe, 24 inch Curved handle https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01I0BK13Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9e.yDbHVHD850

Right now I'm leaving slightly towards the Fiskars, since i live in such a dry climate. My current axe is about to come off the handle because the handle had shrunk so much.

http://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Carpenters-Hatchet-Leather-Grip/dp/B0002JT0C8/

13" Legnth Weight 20oz. Cutting edge is 3.5/8in.

Remember that the lighter the axe head, the more work you have to do and the shorter the handle, the more dangerous. Unless you are 3 feet tall, boys axe or 3/4 axe with a 2.5lb head is in no way too small. The Husqvarna should be a good bet.

Sadly that'd be pretty ineffective. Not grass we're dealing with here.

I have one of these and it'll get the job done with a couple of whacks, but not this season, I'm too beat up from other problems to be out swinging it.

It kinda sounds like he has a lot of stuff and that you don't necessarily know every tiny thing he has / uses / lurves, which is understandable, because people who really think on their EDC-type stuff often buy and trade a lot of crap. I'd almost suggest trying to get out of the EDC-items box and getting him The Axe Book or Back to Basics, both of which cover skills around outdoorsy things. AB will cover how to cut down all kinds of trees with an axe; BTB covers all kinds of homesteading, food growing, basic skills required for such. Both have lots of neat illustrations and seem to come from pretty competent writers. The Axe Book has made me want to get a decent axe, which obviously isn't an EDC item, but it's a nice to have one. If you get something like that, just keep in mind, axes aren't made out of stainless steel, so he'll want some mineral oil / gun-lube type oil to keep rust away.

Otherwise there's always Celox and an Israeli combat bandage for the 'super bad emergency contingency' part of one's EDC. I like to have something like that in my day bag or in my car, just in case.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000912-Back-Paxe-Performance/dp/B004DT1YJA

I've got that one, and you'll need to by a sheeth for it.

For the most part latley, I've just been using big rocks instead of an axe.

I like to sharpen my axes with a file this one works well. I have different axes for felling and splitting yours looks like it has a hollow or concave grind in my experience these don't make good splitting axes (sorry) but where you are just using it for kindling it should be fine. I like to sharpen my splitting axes with a more robust edge think cleaver vs fillet knife. And just sharp enough that if you push on it and slide your hand down it will cut you so pressure won't break the skin and sliding your thumb along the edge won't cut you but both will. Good luck

Edit: watch this at 17:15 he is done hanging the head and begins in on sharpening

OP you hit the jackpot, looks like its worth....30 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Brook-Hunter-MT-W-AXE-Premium-Mo-Tool/dp/B001PTG8F6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1452906789&sr=8-9&keywords=hatchet+multitool

And if you want a modern version that's at least somewhat justifiable when someone asks you why the fuck you have that, just get a ditch bank blade:

https://www.amazon.com/Council-Tool-640CP01-Double-Handle/dp/B01C57F5UU/

I also vote for the Husqvarna ‘multi purpose axe’. Shaped like the other swede forest axes, in a ‘boy’s axe’ size which I prefer over the larger axes for most work.

$75 on Amazon

Fair enough. Are you looking for a half hatchet in particular? That seems to fit your description the best. Flat bit, hammer poll. They are generally on a standard 12” handle, but I’m sure you could find a replacement 18” to throw on it.

EDIT: Estwing is something to look at. Very good product and on a steel handle. They have the campers hatchet and a campers axe that are both close to what you’re looking for.

Estwing Camper's Axe - 14" Hatchet with Forged Steel Construction & Shock Reduction Grip - EO-25A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8STIVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_062YBbD41Y5CK

Estwing Fireside Friend Axe - 14" Wood Splitting Maul with Forged Steel Construction & Shock Reduction Grip - E3-FF4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HAEI1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r.2YBb972F01R

This is the one I've had for a couple of years.

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Fireside-Friend-Axe-Construction/dp/B000HAEI1A

Over time, the part you strike has deformed. I'll probably get a couple more years out of it. I split wood to ordinary chunks with a hydraulic splitter. I use this maul to break a few pieces down even more to get the fire going. For a weekend camping trip, a beer box full of smaller pieces is nice to have.

I would add for the sub-$50.00:

Estwing

Cold Steel Trench Hawk

Cold Steel Trail Hawk

The Estwings are very well built, but they have a somewhat soft heat treat. The Cold Steels are well-made and I particularly like their Trail Hawk (just threw in the Trench Hawk 'cause it's cool). It may be tempting to get the Rifleman's Hawk, but it's too big for an effective 'hawk and too small to be a good woodsman's ax.

Condor also makes some excellent value axes, but they have a lot of choices. You should give them a look!

For your stated use, I'd look at an ax. Here is a 2-part series by Mors Kochanski that should help in the choosing of an ax:

Part 1

Part 2

Axes are sweet. Have fun!

These two are 1lb+ each:

• Gerber Back Paxe II
  
  
• Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet
  
  I have the former and found it insufficient. I got the Gerber Sport Axe II. It is 22oz and ~14" long. I find that much better.
  
  If you have the money, find a Wetterlings

Such awesome axes.

Little spendy, and if you want to get one a little cheaper with little less fit and finish you can get a Husqvarna forest axe which is currently produced by Gransfors Bruks for Husqvarna, for about half the price of the full meal deal from gransfors

I have an Estwing Tomahawk I can put up tomorrow.

Yeah fair enough. In my case bought a 40$ starter axe and this is one of the few companies that makes a sheath for it.
Axe in question: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0BK13Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jk1OCbYFDTQ78

Get this: Estwing Carpenter's Hatchet It's a timeless, handsome tool that you will never outgrow and weighing in at 1.9 pounds. I use an old craftsman carpenters hatchet with my camping gear that I inherited from my uncle that is perfect for my needs but if I were to buy new I would get the Estwing. (that sexy one piece forge)