Best gardening hand tools according to redditors

We found 1,076 Reddit comments discussing the best gardening hand tools. We ranked the 497 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Cultivators & tillers
Hand loppers
Manual weeders
Gardening axes
Pitchforks
Rakes
Garden hoes
Bonsai tools
Gardening picks
Post hole diggers
Hand edges
Gardening machetes
Gardening saws
Bulb planters
Garden twine & twist ties
Manual lawn aerators
Soil test kits
Garden tool sets
Gardening shears & scissors
Gardening spades, shovels & towels

Top Reddit comments about Gardening Hand Tools:

u/Rift28 · 305 pointsr/paradoxplaza
u/KnightOwlForge · 78 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I would have to kindly disagree. The BIFL part of a traditional axe head is that you can easily rehang(replace the handle) it yourself. What if Fiskars stops honoring their policy like so many other "BIFL" brands? Then you be stuck up shit creek without paddle. Give me a piece of wood and a rasp and I can make a handle in less than an hour.

The other gripe I have about the Fiskars (I own one myself) is that they vehemently tell you to never use the back end as a striking tool. It makes since, once you realize how the head is attached to the handle, and this to me takes away half the use of the tool. That said, it hasn't stopped me from using the back end for striking in a pinch, just not something you should be doing with it.

EDIT: If you want to downvote me, please entertain me with reasons why I am wrong. I hand make tools and use them a lot. I have used these type of axes as well as traditional ones and I feel like my arguments are sound based on first hand experience.

EDIT #2: Checked out Fiskars website on their warranty info. It appears that all axes sold now are covered for 25 years. I wouldn't consider that BIFL in my book. What happens is the plastic in the handle breaks down after time and exposure. Eventually it will break. Fiskars is betting that will be more than 25 years down the road.

EDIT#3: In spirit of what this is is all about, I would recommend a Husqvarna in any size and style with a wooden handle. They are Swedish made, and use a traditional design, allowing the purchaser to replace the handle. If you don't care to make a replacement handle yourself, they can be bought for less than $10 at any hardware store or on Amazon.

u/vertigo1083 · 70 pointsr/gaming

Yep. Reddit mob mentality in full swing.

Fellas, Amazon is having a sale on 4 tine pitchforks.

That makes for some fine mobbing.

While you're all at it, here is a DIY on torch-making.

I'll see you all back here in an hour.

u/dogcub · 44 pointsr/microgrowery

My hands would hurt so bad after a day of using those. I prefer bonsai trimmers like these. They’re cheap, you can trim just as tight, and they’re way easier on the hands.

u/superjake · 28 pointsr/pcgaming

Just keep it clean and not powered on constantly. Please don't use a vaccum though. I recommend getting an electric duster like this as compressed air cans don't last very long and can sometimes blow residue onto your components.

u/Donkeydonkeydonk · 23 pointsr/microgrowery

Or..use spring loaded nippers.

u/5fingerdiscounts · 20 pointsr/NanoGrowery

Saved this comment from a fella in micro grocery to start my set up

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

Essentials

• ⁠Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
• ⁠Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-240W-samsung-lm301h-288v3-quantum_62120261175.html?spm=a2700.7803241.0.0.31d73e5fhFxf6a This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
• ⁠Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
• ⁠Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
• ⁠Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
• ⁠Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
• ⁠Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
• ⁠Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
• ⁠Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds

Extra accessories

• ⁠Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
• ⁠a lighter (for sanitizing)
• ⁠a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
• ⁠some garden gloves
• ⁠rope ratchets for your lights
• ⁠zips ties for protecting things
• ⁠binder clips (for low stress training)
• ⁠plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
• ⁠watering can
• ⁠two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
• ⁠a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
• ⁠markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
• ⁠soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
• ⁠paper towels (for germination)
• ⁠Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
• ⁠3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
• ⁠3 surge protector power bars
• ⁠Various AC power extension cables
• ⁠1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
• ⁠USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
• ⁠62% Boveda packs for curing
• ⁠Mason jars for curing and storage
• ⁠hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
• ⁠Duct tape

It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

u/MemorableCactus · 18 pointsr/Axecraft

There are a ton of axes out there that fit your profile straight out of the box. You're just looking for a European style forest axe.

This is your best "budget" option.

These

are

some

... pricier options.

Don't ruin a perfectly fine American axe trying to replicate a European axe. There's no reason for it.

As for whether your design is good for "camp tasks," well, that depends. You'd need to define some things.

  1. What kind of camping? Are you driving out or hiking? If you're driving out, don't fuck around. Bring a full sized axe.

  2. What kind of "camp tasks" are you going to be doing? If you're just going to be limbing for smaller firewood, then even a hatchet will do you well. If you're going to be felling, bucking and splitting whole trees, then car or hike you're better off with a full sized axe. Bucking is a ton of work and a heavier axe helps the tool do the work rather than your arms. If you watch this dude's axe content, you'll see that even he (who prefers smaller axes) does note that you really have to whip smaller axes to get the same effect as a larger axe.

  3. What kind of wood are you working with? If you're working with tough hardwoods, American axes are made to deal with that type of wood better than European/Scandinavian axes that are mostly tooled towards pines and other soft woods.

  4. How much experience do you have with using axes? American axe patterns tend to be a little more forgiving of bad technique since they're bulkier and often not hardened quite as much. (They're still heat treated, but a softer edge is easier to sharpen though it does dull faster.) European axes tend to be a bit harder, but that means they're harder to sharpen and if you chip them (say, on an overstrike or an imperfection in the tree) they're much harder to work out.
u/all_bad_names_taken · 17 pointsr/swtor

Get your pitchforks ready! Still lacking that pitchfork in your life? Quick, buy one now ane be prepared for tomorrow!

u/Deathbike · 17 pointsr/bicycling

Quit whining and make like a mountain biker. ;)

u/glauck006 · 17 pointsr/microgrowery

Can I start off by saying that this well researched, well organized, informative post is a breath of fresh air compared to the "These balls mean its female, right?" and "Got clone, wat do guyz, lol" type posts, thank you for that.

I'd advise you skip the cheapo fan controllers and go with a Mercury 4 to maintain way tighter temp control. These controllers will raise and lower your fan speed to maintain a 10 degree swing. Or go full bore with the Arduino and control it with that.

A variac fan controller is also a good alternative to the cheap ones.

I'd also recommend a 6 inch setup as they're much more prevalent in home improvement stores. A six inch fan moving the same amount of air will also be quieter.

Consider Jack's hydro 321 if you're concerned you're paying a bit too much for Scott's brand bottled water... I mean GH nutes, sorry, I get confused sometimes.


I like these scissors.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Pruning-Scissors-Trimmer/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=pd_sim_86_23?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M6MNMDEB9656STMBFWVM

A 40x loupe will be hard to get pics with. People seem to have good luck with those phone attachment macro lenses.

You may need a temp controller for the seedling mat, but I've read of people using pencils under their seedling tray for a little air gap.

u/JaiCakes · 17 pointsr/marvelstudios
u/somethingimadeup · 16 pointsr/trees

I disagree highly, those trimming scissors have a spring which will give your hand cramps if you're trimming for long periods of time (granted, you may not have enough weed to get that far)

Chikamasa makes the best trimming scissors, hands down. They were designed for the Royal Gardens in China and they are the go-to for any serious trimmers.

Specifically, these: https://www.amazon.com/Chikamasa-B-500SRF-Scissors-Fluorine-Coating/dp/B0195U2MLA

u/Karpe__Diem · 14 pointsr/tifu
u/LazyGrower · 13 pointsr/microgrowery

Game changing: https://www.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Pruning-Scissors-Trimmer/dp/B00P0FK7W6

Just bought another 24 pairs of these babies.

u/ag11600 · 12 pointsr/lawncare

This. For 2k sq ft (which is what I have in my backyard) it will take you about 2-3 hours total of work. Really not that bad at all. Drink a beer and listen to music, podcast, sports, etc. Just water a good amount morning of or day before, it will make it SO much easier.

Alternatively, you can have local landscaping company do it. Prices vary, but typically ~$70-110 USD seems like the average.

u/OsmanthusJelly · 12 pointsr/homeowners

I killed all my grass/weed without pesticides by covering everything with cardboard weighed down by bricks for 3 weeks. I then watered and used a manual aerator. It all cost about $30.




Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator Manual Grass Dethatching Turf Plug Core Aeration Tool ID-6C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CcuWCbTQNKB10




Burning works and it's way faster. I didn't do that because my area burns easily.

u/meldolphin · 11 pointsr/rupaulsdragrace

In case anyone needs one.

I think it will depend on how the episode plays out. If she majorly screws up and then loses the lip sync to a lovable assassin like Katya it will be sad but I think people will grudgingly accept it. If she doesn't do terribly bad and ends up going home against a villain or someone who clearly lost the lip sync, there will probably be riots. I'm just curious about what Trixie will think about it all since she hangs out on this sub.

u/pleasehelpwaterfloor · 11 pointsr/microgrowery

Fellow canuck! Welcome!

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

Essentials

u/PunkHawg · 9 pointsr/Permaculture

A 3-way soil tester will help as well because although lime will help break down the clay, adding too much base will throw off pH balance and impede microbial growth. They're pretty cheap, as seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Sonkir-Soil-Moisture-Tester-Gardening/dp/B07BR52P26

u/redditsoaddicting · 8 pointsr/technology

Pitchforks! Get your pitchforks here! Not the useless Reddit pitchforks, but actually useful for stabbing the enemies!

u/toddlersnake · 6 pointsr/homestead
u/pdb1975 · 6 pointsr/guns
u/TheHoneyCreeper · 6 pointsr/amazon

an axe, and
[something to sharpen the axe](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ASUL4I
)

u/vitaminainspector · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I can’t tell if this is a shitpost or not
In the case it isn’t:

Clean up the space over your desk. Most of that can go in a drawer or somewhere else

Fix your cable management. it looks like my olive garden leftovers. keeping with the garden theme, I use tomato velcro. It’s not great for looks but it’s $5.50 for 45 feet of the stuff and if you hide them well it won’t matter. There are plenty of videos on youtube for how to cable manage well, but iirc TechSource made a good video about it.

Clean up your keyboard tray. Just wipe it down with a paper towel or something I can see the dust in the pics

Pick up your trash. at least have enough decency to pick up the cans from the top of your desk because no one cares you drink pepsi.

If you took the time to clean up your setup would look infinitely better

u/DonutTread · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

I usually only grow 2 or 3 plants at a time so I'm probably not as particular about what I use to trim as others who end up spending days doing it. I am happy to use bonsai trimmers such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Bonsai-Pruning-Scissors/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1542645012&sr=8-14&keywords=trimming+shears

u/leo-theleopard · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

Fiskars
or Chikamasa.

Just make sure to keep them clean. For the Fiskars, after use place them in locking position to increase longevity of the spring’s tension.

u/4dolfin · 6 pointsr/HelpMeFind
u/njbeerguy · 5 pointsr/gardening

My understanding is that 1) it takes a while for the plant to start taking up the calcium, and 2) the conditions that cause blossom end rot actually set in weeks prior to fruit set.

So with this trick, you really want to do it early (assuming their is even a calcium deficiency in the first place.) I know folks who put a tablet in each planting hole when they transplant! But perhaps a treatment mid-season could alleviate the issue a few weeks later?

Before doing stuff like this, I recommend that people get a soil testing kit. They're cheap and easy to use, and will tell you if your soil really is deficient in certain nutrients or if it's another problem. Blossom end rot is more often not about a lack of calcium, it's that the tomato can't take up what calcium is there due to other factors.

u/FuzzyHappyBunnies · 5 pointsr/botany

Japanese garden knife: https://smile.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I?sa-no-redirect=1

Great for collecting. I hope your friend wasn't collecting in a park, though. That's usually not allowed!

u/WhyAmINotStudying · 5 pointsr/WTF

Getting down to brass tacks, though, I highly recommend the Cold Steel Kukri machete. I picked one up about a year ago and although it doesn't come with the sharpest blade, it is really easy to hone.

It's awesome quality, comes with a sheath, and the kukri shape combined with an 18" blade makes cutting off even the largest of arms a snap!

u/blubbersassafras · 5 pointsr/theydidthemath

Ok... I'm gonna try and look exclusively on amazon, because it seems pretty representative of prices elsewhere and it would take too long to look everywhere. I'll work in UK money, since that's where I live, and I'll convert it to USD at the end.

u/gonzolahst · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

I've got a Gerber Gator machete that I bought before I got into knives, and I've been trying as hard as possible to break it batoning and chopping wood, and it just keeps coming back for more. I even sharpen it the laziest way possible, with one of those pull-through carbide jobs and still gets a decent (for a machete) edge. The handle is starting to loosen a little bit, but other than that no gripes. For me at least, totally worth $20.

I will say, knowing what I know now, I'd probably get a Condor instead.

u/wetbudha · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I use this one when I clean trails while I hike.


Gerber 31-000758 Gator Machete with Sheath
http://amzn.com/B004A1IXRC

u/thomas533 · 5 pointsr/foraging

No pictures being as I am at work but:

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 4 pointsr/landscaping

Getting professional testing takes a couple weeks.

I used this one off Amazon; gives results in a few minutes. It told me that my soil was completely depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. I threw down a bunch of Urea and Phosphate; my research said to not worry about potassium. And then I put down a ton of composted manure to fix the soil structure and add some organic material because my soil was heavy on clay (yours looks heavy on sand and could probably use it as well. Then I rented a tiller and went to town.

I don't remember how much fertilizer I put down, but I based it off recommendations I found on the internet easy enough. For compost I used approximately 4 cu ft per 100 sq ft of lawn.

I can't say whether or not it made a difference, but my lawn is about 2 months old and it looks amazing.

u/pointblankjustice · 4 pointsr/camping

I don't think saws and LNT are mutually exclusive in the slightest. I've brought a Corona folding saw with me backpacking every time I've gone and literally never used it to cut down live/unfallen trees. But building and maintaining a fire is significantly easier when you can process 5-6" diameter wood down into usable 12-18" sections.

u/upsidedownlunchbox · 4 pointsr/thewalkingdead

I would go with the gerber gator machete. I have had one in my fishing bag fora few years and it works great for clearing brush, even small to medium sized trees. Easy to sharpen, solid chuck of metal. I have a second one in my "just incase the world ends" bag.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B004A1IXRC/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

u/tjsean0308 · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

These are great bang for the buck hand forged in sweden. A real top notch axe at a great price. Husqvarna

Gransfors Bruks aslo make BIFL axes but at a bit higher price point. You can also check out Axe junkies.com if you really want to nerd ou on axes. Rumor has it the Husky axes are forged by Granfors.

u/jkslate · 4 pointsr/Bushcraft

CRKT Woods Chogan Tomahawk

Use it every week for splitting oak, walnut, pine, avocado, and pinion.

edit: Link

u/DrOpThEmBuNzHuN · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

I use this style scissors for my fine trimming. I bought two pairs for a buck on wish.

Sago Brothers Bonsai Scissors, Pruning Shears for Bud and Leaves Trimmer 5 PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DeANBbJVTGJQ5

u/pocketmole · 4 pointsr/gardening

I feel like I really struggled with houseplants until I purchased a moisture meter. I tried to follow the guideline of sticking a finger into the soil to determine how damp it is, but I think my fingertips lack that level of sensitivity because I would do it and think, "Yup. That's dirt alright."

The meter changed everything and really kept me on top of watering properly. I got one on Amazon for about 10 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Dr-meter-Hygrometer-Outdoor-S10/dp/B00PTLGKSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521342631&sr=8-1&keywords=houseplant+moisture+meter

u/signaljunkie · 4 pointsr/vancouver

If you live in a spot that gets a lot of asshats on loud bikes, you could back up your suspicions with a sound meter and camera.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/houseplants

Not OP, but I had the same issue with mine. I finally used a soil moisture meter similar to this one to check on soil's humidity, every few days, to make sure soil has some moisture. Marantas don't tolerate well dry soil, so the meter helps me keep it alive, without over-watering it.

u/rachjo1024 · 4 pointsr/plants
u/mk2vrdrvr · 4 pointsr/Documentaries

Chikamasa B-500SRF are hands down the best for dry/wet trimming.



u/blackjack1977 · 3 pointsr/lawncare
u/domesticpig · 3 pointsr/lawncare

soil test, amend as needed. clay is usually acidic, require lime added but there's only so much you should add each time so it might take a while to get it just right.

add compost. lots and lots of compost. you can till then add compost and till again, if you're buying enough. otherwise you can just dump on top like 2 inches, which is still going to be a truck load.

for drainage, look into dry wells, including building a trench dry well--essentially a trench with stone.

then once you establish a lawn, aerate on a regular basis and never let it dry out completely. continue to soil test and amend as needed yearly.

edit: also, once you do your soil test, you can either amend the soil to grow what you want OR just plant what grows in the soil you have. Daylilies generally grow well in clay.

Rapitest 716756 1601 Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qDjzCbR5W60SH

u/timbillyosu · 3 pointsr/gardening

One of these kits

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FiB2CbBR66TS5

u/throughtheforest · 3 pointsr/gardening

Or you could buy a simple soil test kit for like, $15 at you're local gardening store. Or even just look up nutrient deficiency symptoms. For instance- I can tell you with 100% certainty that this is NOT a nitrogen deficiency, because those deficiencies show only in older leaves, and the young leaves here are affected as well. However, it could be a magnesium deficiency.

Adding amendments just to see if they help is not only wasteful, but can be very detrimental to the environment. There are plenty of ways to make more informed choices. If it is, in fact, salt burn- then OP could actually make matters worse by fertilizing.

u/treefarmercharlie · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Those soil pH meters are very inconsistent and worthless. You need to test the water & feeding water with either a quality pH meter, or pH testing drops. Those plants look like they are in rough shape and I'd be willing to bet the issue is pH related. If you want to test the pH of your soil then THIS is what I use for that.

u/ButThisIsRidiculous · 3 pointsr/todayilearned
u/Nizzlefuzz · 3 pointsr/camping

I used this one from Gerber on a very long camping trip last year and can't say enough good things about it. It's small, but I don't think I could have broken it if I wanted to.

u/deltaporkypig · 3 pointsr/Survival

My cousin brought this folding saw, and I just brought a hatchet. Actually 90% of the wood was cut via a hatchet, then the places where we didn't want to impale ourselves, we cleaned up with the saw.

u/CanineMutiny · 3 pointsr/FJCruiser

This is why I carry a small pruning saw in my tool box for trail maintenance, they go through two inch branches with ease.

u/fishpuddle · 3 pointsr/Axecraft

I have the husqvarna 26" axe which is made by hults bruks. It has been a fantastic axe and keeps its edge very well. I also have a gransfors bruks axe and the quality of the husqvarna is nearly identical.

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

u/GlucoseGlucose · 3 pointsr/gardening

This spring I started a garden on my deck in Philadelphia. This was really the first time I gardened anything seriously and I’ve enjoyed myself immensely. Skip to the bottom for the album of it all.

I primarily started my plants from seeds without researching how they grow:

  • Sugar Baby Watermelon

  • Burpless Cucumbers

  • Sungold Cherry Tomatoes

  • Campari Tomatoes

  • Spaghetti Squash (purchased plant)

  • Green Bell Peppers (purchased plant)

    I quickly realized that I needed to be creative about how to manage these plants as a lot of them grow out instead of staying compact. Once the plants outgrew their medium sized pots, I needed a different solution. The major unlock for me was finding CaliKim's container gardening videos on YouTube that recommended planter bags. She also has a great method of making cage trellises that work perfectly in the bags she recommended.

  • Container Gardening Video (there are more!)

  • DIY Cage Trellis Video - I followed this one almost exactly

  • Welded Wire fencing for the cages

  • VIVOSUN 20-gallon planter bags were a major unlock to getting this system to work. The mobility is awesome. The red one with the spaghetti squash is a different brand (Root Pouch?) and is only 15-gallons. I strongly recommend getting 20-gallons for vegetables as they like deep routes for the most part. My squash is doing fine, but it’s definitely been slower than the bigger bags

  • Half-Pallets I got for free from work to help get my plants off the ground and avoid rotting and promote drainage

    With this starting point I was able to get these plants into a compact space and still be able to thrive. Because I’ve got everything on top of each other there is some inter-mingling but for the most part things stay in their cages.

    My deck faces south and with the egregious Philadelphia summer I sometimes have to water twice a day to keep everything happy. I have done a lot of pruning to keep the plants reigned in and not way overgrow their plot.

    As the project progressed I realized I needed bamboo stakes to stabilize the cages and my non caged plants, and a few other random items listed below:

  • Bamboo stakes for stability

  • Velcro ties to guide plants where needed

  • Shears for pruning

  • Garden Netting used to make watermelon hammocks

    The watermelon needed hammocks to fend off gravity in this system, pole around YouTube for different ways people have done this

    In my research I got disheartened several times because many said growing watermelon or cucumber or squash in a compact space is extremely challenging and arguably not worth it. At that point I had already started the plants and I decided to give it a try anyway. To my delight things have turned out very well, and I wanted to share with any other urban gardeners who think they don’t have enough space for veggies.

    Next year I would grow more cucumbers and cage them instead of stake them (or maybe both). For the winter my plan is to leave the bags and soil outside and see how they hold up. It seems like they are able to handle snow / excess moisture without too much issue.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/jCqiEQH
u/ImYoungxD · 3 pointsr/lawncare

Get this on Amazon. The HD link is OOS. Make sure you saturate your lawn to easily get the cores out. 1 to 1.5 hrs of watering would be good.

https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Dethatching-Aeration-ID-6C/dp/B00EOMCJD6

u/entropywins9 · 3 pointsr/lawncare

Try the lawn butler manual core aerator. https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOMCJD6

It actually worked. Spike aeration can supposedly actually increase compaction. I paid $25 new, looks like its 30 now, but warehouse deals has it for 22.

u/HuckleberryPoundTown · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

It sounds like you're being exceptionally picky when you trim? Maybe relax a bit? Are you trying to get every single little bit of leaf out?

My wife and I use a bunch of these little bonsai scissors. We keep a glass of alcohol out to soak the gunked-up ones in and just switch them out as needed. It takes us roughly an hour to trim a plant.

Our basic process is:

  • Cut all the branches and the cola off the plant.
  • Put em in a big box in the center of the table.
  • Lay out our scissors and other gear.
  • Get the cat off the table.
  • Stick a trash can by the table for the big stuff.
  • We each grab a branch.
  • Cut all the big fan leaves off and toss them. This takes maybe a minute per branch, probably less.
  • Cut off all the little popcorn buds. We throw these in a bowl and save them for extracts. Maybe another minute per branch.
  • Get the cat off the table.
  • Now we start cleaning up the individual buds.
  • Nip off any leaves that aren't sugary enough. Toss them. Maybe 5 minutes a branch.
  • Start cleaning up the buds. We just nip off anything that sticks out too far. We're mainly just shaping things up. Don't worry about digging into the buds to get every little trace of a leaf. If you can reach it easily enough, great, but no need to stress. This is the bulk of our time, maybe 10 minutes per branch.

    Edit: Oh, and if you're totally fine just extracting the plant, you really don't need to do much at all. I'd cut the fan leaves off since its quick and they're just needless bulk, but even that isn't mandatory.
u/Stickybomber · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

These are the best for trimming. They look shitty but once you get them you'll be amazed at the quality. Razor sharp and a single one lasted me through trimming 5 plants before I felt they could be sharper.

http://www.amazon.com/Bonsai-Pruner-Bud-Leaf-Trimmer/dp/B00P0FK7W6

u/AOSParanoid · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6

I like these along with micro tip shears similar to the fiskars for larger leaves. These get a bit more precise for those little sugar leaves.

u/imagrowsomestuff · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527029595&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bonsai+shears

These are by far my favorite for trimming sugar leaves. Super precise and razor sharp, makes it really easy to cut leaves precisely. Use any type of larger shears or scissors for stems and branches.

u/dontyouflap · 3 pointsr/CozyPlaces

You can use a soil moisture meter if you wanna be precise. A wooden chopstick also works great. Stick it in the pot against the side (so as to not stab the roots) and pull it out and see how moist the soil is. And if the soil gets too dry and shrinks then soak it in water.

u/zopiac · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Why is hearing protection recommended? Why, to protect your ears of course!

Tinnitus is very real and very, very awful to have. Mine is very mild (I carry etymotic plugs with me always) but it's still very bothersome when I lie down to sleep (and I dislike adding white noise to drown it out).

The louder the noise, the less you can safely listen to it before it being a hazard to your hearing. Even with good earplugs in, some things just are too loud to safely deal with for more than a few hours a day, but that's better than being at risk for hearing loss and tinnitus after only ten minutes! Here's some info on how long you can listen to various volume levels. You can either guess at how loud something is via charts like so or get a decibel meter to test some of the more common things that you have to deal with.

I always try to stay under 80dB volume, listening to music around 60 (I think it's more common to listen at 75-80dB, but I have sensitive ears I guess). It is extremely easy to get regular old earbuds to be dangerously loud!

Anyhow, protect your ears. Older you will thank you, unless you routinely stay in a quiet environment all day anyhow, in which case, I'm jealous.

u/delta9heavy · 3 pointsr/MephHeads

Chikamasa B-500SRF Curved Scissors with Fluorine Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195U2MLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3pPADbRP8DGVH

u/idocreative · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

No, the orange handled ones, those look painful to hold. The orange ones are lightweight and there is no spring so it doesn't dig into your hand after a full day of trimming. My trim speed got faster too but I try not to trim if I don't have to anymore, lol! Make sure to get the curved ones too they do a good job of getting deep in the bud without having to mess anything up.

u/jankyfeet · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

This is my pick for best trimming scissors. A spring on it would be nice but I'm ok without it.

u/P5ychokilla · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

You didn't think to maybe get a power extension and take it out the back with an electric duster?

u/AddictivePotential · 3 pointsr/plantclinic

Terra cotta pots suck the soil dry, I don't use them unless it's for succulents. I would repot this in fresh potting soil inside a different container with a drainage hole. If this guy's soil usually looks this dry, and if it's more than 5ft from a super bright-ass window it won't grow. Everyone severely underestimates how close plants have to be to a window. And no growth is a sure sign of underwatering. If it was getting enough water but not enough sunlight, it would grow, just weirdly.

If you want zero guessing involved, I would read up on what that plant likes and pick up a super cheap moisture and light meter like this one from Amazon. Has saved me a lot of trouble when I have to check if a big plant is dry or if the sunlight isn't strong enough.

u/C0sm0pyp · 3 pointsr/houseplants
u/PSPlants · 3 pointsr/plantclinic

I bought this one and I really like it!

u/someonesdaddy · 2 pointsr/landscaping

I recommend getting a soil test. You can order a kit from Amazon or send a sample off for analysis.

Your pH could be off or your soil may need fertilizer. To grow anything you need to start with the dirt and then work your way up.

This little kit will get you started off in the right direction. I use this one and highly recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

u/hop_addict · 2 pointsr/gardening

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZL3vDb8Z2TNZ2

u/slightlyintoout · 2 pointsr/lawncare

> see http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

As an alternative to this test, check your local coop extension. They'll likely do a test for a similar amount, but it will be much more accurate. They'll also make recommendations on how to rectify any deficiencies.

u/patl1 · 2 pointsr/lawncare

You're welcome! I forgot to mention that before you seed you may also need to put some nutrients back into the soil. A soil test will help tell you what you need. If you want a pro test, these guys can do it, or you can talk to your local state/agricultural university (not sure where you are in zone 6, but I know that Virginia Tech and NC State offer these services, other states most likely do as well). The university tests may be less expensive.

After the soil test comes back, adjust the pH and add nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium (those are the numbers on the bags of fertilizer, like 10-18-10/N-P-K) as necessary. Good luck!

u/sputnik400 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

dont matter ph is a huge part to play in your plants life. you might want to invest in this https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845 so u get more than one reading on ph and npk of soil . if its reading is 6-7 your okay then its not a ph problem. its probably the temps or idk because twisting and irregular leaves are caused by ph

u/jayomiko · 2 pointsr/gardening

Well I can say with some confidence that you're overwatering it. It's allowed to get a little dry on the soil surface. Tomatoes like it moist, not wet, so a good rule of thumb is always to water when you feel it dry about an inch into the soil (like stick your finger in). Tomatoes do need water, yes, but they also need oxygen and drowning won't allow them to "breathe". You also risk washing out nutrients needed by watering so much. Think of a sponge. You want the roots to be as moist as a wrung out sponge - still moist but not dripping from holding all that water in it.

Without looking too much into it (there are many number of things that can affect a plant and sometimes similar symptoms will have completely different causes), I would take a guess that it's a nutrient deficiency. If you've got other plants, it might be fun/worth it to get one of these kits to test it.

In lieu of that, since you're probably using standard potting soil from Home Depot which is usually fine I'd say re-pot it and stick to a slower watering schedule. Also don't forget to fertilize regularly and watch out for various insects throughout its growth.

u/queenovary · 2 pointsr/houseplants

You can buy a soil test kit for really cheap!

It’ll tell you exactly what your plant needs :)

u/top_gear446 · 2 pointsr/lawncare

Lots of good questions here!

> I put down a scotts crabgrass preventer and lawn food a few weeks ago and am aware I should fertilize again in the summer I think?

Yes but it depends on temperature. Synthetic fertilizer can stress the lawn when it is very hot. You can apply an organic slow release like milorganite or ringer which is lower in nutrients and is less likely or won't burn your lawn in high heat.

> I've though about aerating or dethatching but don't want to disturb the preemergent layer and am not sure if I need it. How do you tell if should dethatch or aerate?

Unless you can run your hand through the lawn and scrape up a fist full of thatch, you don't need to dethatch right now. You can dethatch and aerate in the fall as part of your winter prep.

> I've sprayed almost 2 gallons of roundup weed and grass killer on it over the last few days and there is still a lot of green, should I just give a week or so to see what all dies (I thought it would be faster acting)?

About 1 gallon per 300 square feet is sufficient so you've potentially more than doubled what you needed to put down (assuming 40% glyophosate strength). Hold off on applying anything else. Water this area really well. Roundup (glyphosate) is absorbed through the green leaves so it will be slow to act if the target plant is not actively growing. Give it three weeks before you reassess. It takes time.

> From reading online I'm thinking I should put down a broadleaf preemergent on the old mulch soon and also apply some kind of fertilizer to all the shrubs and bushes before the mulch gets put down.

You can use Preen either on top of the new mulch or on top of the old mulch before new stuff goes down. It's activated after the first rain or watering I believe so it will make it's way into the soil. It works by stopping root development in new plants so it won't effect established plants. Its safer than spraying a broad weed killer or pre-em since that may damage some shrubs.


> What kind of fertilizer should I use and how much?

You can use all-purpose miracle grow liquid which is easy to mix or use in the hose spray bottle. Another option might be Osmocote which is a slower-release all purpose fert in pellet form.

> I have some bags of composted steer manure I was thinking of just putting a mound around each plant underneath the weed barrier fabric.

That can work too.

> The old mulch I should say isn't very thick so I am just planning on leaving it.

No problem.

> Can I do all this without collecting, sending out, and paying for soil samples for each of these areas?

Yes. You can also get the diy soil test kit probably not as accurate as a lab but will give you an approximation.


*Edit - also yes, it will feel overwhelming and you won't get all of it done in the first year. Maintain what you have an improve in small chunks. It will come together.

u/Huskies971 · 2 pointsr/lawncare

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_3zdUzbKG5RETZ

You can test it yourself

Edit: if you don't want to do it yourself a University in the area usually offers the service. I live in Michigan, and Michigan State University will do testing for $23 a sample.

u/heartlessgamer · 2 pointsr/gardening

These are the types I have used for my lawn (small pill that you dump into water you've mixed with the soil and left sit over night, then match the colors). They worked very well. However, I am a big fan of getting your local university extension office to test your soil. Most of them do it fairly cheaply (or for free).

u/lovellama · 2 pointsr/gardening

I haven't seen a hori hori mentioned. I use mine a lot.

u/paulbesteves · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I usually take my hori hori, but that may be for lighter use than what you have in mind.

u/ToaSt667 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub
u/BigBillH · 2 pointsr/Survival

Brace for rant.

Alright, you have a shit ton of survival knives and machete's to choose from, but for my money I have always loved Cold Steel's products. For your case I would recommend Cold Steel's Bushman knife and Kukri Machete.

Bushman: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Cordura-Survival/dp/B0015RQI7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381631382&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+steel+bushman

Kukri Machete: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-97KMS-Kukri-Machete/dp/B000FJRR2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381631412&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+steel+kukri+machete

Here is why.
First off they can both take a lot of punishment and keep going. Prove it you say? Well the fine people and cold steel do that for you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaTbOGcsXoE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xq1EFWVV3C0

And here is the best part. Both of them are so cheap, If I break one tomorrow beyond repair (Highly unlikely by the way) I'm not out a whole lot of money. I can buy another one without loosing sleep. That's a good thing with a work knife, I don't know about you, but a piece of equipment I paid a lot of money for I'm much more careful with. I treat my bushman like a 1950's drunken dad with his redheaded step child, and that's what you want to be able to do with a survival knife. I want to be able to toss the fucker in the mud, use it to clean small or large game, and then use it as an impromptu tent peg. I will warn you though, Haole_Boy does bring up a good point about the handle. It does get very uncomfortable when used for a while. But that's easly fixed with some para cord, or if you want, go and grab some handle tape for a tennis racket.

As for your question about the pros and cons of a kukri vs a hatchet; I find each tool has it's up and downs. My camping bag has both the kukri machete and a hatchet. I find that the heft of the hatchet helps when cutting through actual logs, while the kukri is good for cutting through medium sized tree limbs. But honestly, if i had to drop weight, I'd drop the hatchet. I can power through the log if I had to with the kukri machete. Not as comfortable, but doable.

u/PNWoutdoors · 2 pointsr/Survival

Ah that sucks, I didn't realize you are in Canada. You guys always get the short end of the stick. BTW I bought the Corona which is basically the same saw and they had very comparable feedback. It works really well and recommend it if the price is right for you.

Corona RS 7265 Razor Tooth Folding Pruning Saw, 10" Curved Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RD7LRO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_A3bNwbB6GRRWJ

u/Bearded4Glory · 2 pointsr/lawncare

I removed some lower branches on a large tree in my yard. My expertise is limited to what I learned on youtube though. Get yourself a tree saw (I got this one https://smile.amazon.com/Corona-RazorTOOTH-Folding-RS-7265D/dp/B001RD7LRO/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527348650&sr=1-2&keywords=pruning+saw). You are going to want to trim the branch about a foot away from the trunk for your first cut. Start by cutting about 25% of the way through from the bottom up, then cut the rest of the way from the top down. This will prevent the cut branch from pulling off the bark, that is very damaging to the tree. Once the bulk of the branch is removed you can trim the branch all the way back to the trunk. You will see where there is a ripple where the branch comes out of the trunk, you want to trim as close to that as possible without cutting into it, that will help your tree heal up as quickly as possible.

I don't think I would do this now, I would wait until late winter if you can or at least fall. With warm weather approaching you don't want to contribute to the tree getting even more stressed than is necessary.

You can also ask or do some reading on /r/marijuanaenthusiasts (seriously that is the right sub /r/trees is for marijuana)

u/rabidfurby · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Any opinions about the Gerber Gator? It's from a generally trustworthy company, has good Amazon reviews, and is fairly inexpensive.

I have a standard Ka-Bar I use for everything else, but when I'm collecting firewood with it I often find myself wishing I had a slightly longer/heavier blade.

u/frenchrangoon · 2 pointsr/xxfitness
u/One_Of_Noahs_Whales · 2 pointsr/AskAnAmerican

I know this is joke day, but I bought a gator from a camping shop and carried it unpacked down the back of my bike jacket, no worries.

The difference is that zombie knives have no use other than causing serious harm to people, machetes have other uses.

u/Not_In_Our_Stars · 2 pointsr/Survival

I've been a scout camp counselor for six years and used axes of all kinds including granfors and wetterlings. The Husqvarna 26in axe is made by wetterlings and is easily the very best axe for your money. That's really all I have to say. I would also never buy a strait handled axe for actual use (apart from a double sided axe, but even they have a flared pommel). Tomahawks are a different story but they arent for doing work.

If you have any questions hit me up.

u/fromkentucky · 2 pointsr/Survival

A viable alternative to the GB SFA is the Husqvarna Forest Axe. Half the cost and similar proportions to Granfors Bruks' larger Scandinavian Forest Axe.

u/leesajane · 2 pointsr/houseplants

You can also use plant velcro -- it's easy to use, reuse and readjust as needed =]

u/-MiniFarmer- · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

Check out garden velcro. I use it for my girls in smart pots. It grips the fabric perfectly for LST.

u/DaveInPhilly · 2 pointsr/lawncare

Yeah you can rent an aerator, but looking at your yard you might be able to get by with a manual one like this.

I wouldn't mow now. I know we're seeing some crazy weather now, but it won't do you any good until your lawn comes out of dormancy and that's still a bit away.

u/konnerbllb · 2 pointsr/lawncare

I have a hand held spike aerator and I can't really say that it helped or did much of anything this season. I've since bought a core aerator with a good grip. I usually have a core aeration service do this but I would also like to have something onsite to do this whenever necessary. It works really well for my soil actually.

https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6/

u/doppelganged · 2 pointsr/lawncare

> Should I just buy a core aerator and do it manually?

I would. (Assuming you are talking about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6)

u/lannister80 · 2 pointsr/lawncare
u/Mowron · 2 pointsr/lawncare

This for a smaller yard. Spikes compact the soil more by simply pressing it to the sides and down, a core aerator pulls a plug out on top on the grass.

u/TheShadyGuy · 2 pointsr/lawncare

You may find a used one on Craigslist or similar for around $1000. These seem to only really be made for the commercial market. You can buy a manual one, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491416518&sr=8-2&keywords=manual+core+aerator

u/Alabaster13 · 2 pointsr/lawncare

I have a manual aerator where I step down with my foot to martial he holes.

Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EOMCJD6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414330297&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

u/vankorgan · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I've got the crkt woods chogan hawk and I love it. It's a little heavier than the standard tomahawk, but I like that a lot. You end up getting a lot of chopping power in a little package.

u/EvaUnit_1 · 2 pointsr/EDC

People seem to like this one which is only 40 bucks

Of course, if money were no object, I would want the on that op has haha

I do not have a hawk yet, and just recently got my first hatchet. (wetterlings) But my limited experience with my hatchet has me curious about the versatility of a hawk.





u/CaptainMinty · 2 pointsr/Axecraft

Here's the link to CRKT's website: http://www.crkt.com/woods-chogan-thawk-axe-2730

I bought mine off of Amazon from this listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04Q7LO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: is there a better sub for this post?

u/wintersoldier69 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery
u/The_Real_Raw_Gary · 2 pointsr/trees

these are the ones I got

They’re amazing dude. The spring comes from the metal at the end. It’s basically two razor blades springing together. I don’t think I could go back to any type of actual scissor type shears after using these now. Also they’re cheap so if you didn’t want to clean them and just chuck a pair that’s a viable option as well. But they don’t make my hands hurt compared to the others so that’s the biggest thing for me next to how well they cut.

u/Secret_Garden0_o · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Try these. I still love fiskars but i found these to be better for a lot of trimming

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/thesenseitofu · 2 pointsr/HotPeppers

These are the ones I got and I've been pretty happy with them so far. I'd love to get some nice forged ones someday though.

u/Havingaverybadtime · 2 pointsr/houseplants

https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Dr-meter-Hygrometer-Outdoor-S10/dp/B00PTLGKSQ

I bought that one. Make sure to clean it in between tests if you go that route. When you're testing to see what the moisture level is also lift the pot. You will get used to the weight difference and soon be able to just pick up the pot and know. That meter helped me so much, some pots are so hard to tell even with a finger poke because they hide water in the bottom. I check the first inch then push deeper and to the bottom to see what's going on. It's like having a secret laser and being able to know what's up! Could even chart it if you wanted to and come up with a loose watering schedule that way! Good luck!!!!

u/Irish_Slap_Boi · 2 pointsr/houseplants

Also, the one I listed may be a bit pricey so I found this slightly cheaper option if you are only looking for the moisture levels and not the Ph or light!

Dr.Meter S10 Soil Moisture Sensor Meter, Hygrometer Moisture Sensor for Garden, Farm, Lawn Plants Indoor & Outdoor(No Battery needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PTLGKSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VMOCb89JY5Z7

u/gooberfaced · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Gear Ties work great for that.

u/freddiehoff · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-meter-MS10-Digital-Measurement-Accuracy/dp/B00X3MD6EY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495480379&sr=8-3&keywords=db+meter

Would this be a good db meter? I want to know how loud my mix position is, as well as measure how loud things are in the various places I go.

u/HowManySmall · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/TalkAboutPopMayhem · 2 pointsr/funny

Here's a link to where you can buy the exact meter in the picture.

u/imagine_amusing_name · 2 pointsr/oculus

You can get electric-powered air dusters. Long term they work out cheaper than canned air, don't contain bitterants and because they're electric, they're rechargeable.

I don't work for the companies selling these, but here is the US and UK links for amazon. (Other brands are available - my search was for electric compressed air)


https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881551&sr=8-6&keywords=electric+compressed+air


https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881570&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+compressed+air

u/Dionlewis123 · 2 pointsr/LogitechG

Yeah, when I first built my PC I bought one of these, every week I use it to clean/dust it.

u/Badger_Silverado · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I got one of these and use it to help with watering. Its pretty awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cxGtDb2VK2P51

u/kayenta · 2 pointsr/MonitorLizards

This is what has been recommended to me and seems to work:

Dwarf white or dwarf purple isopods are a good bet because they are generally too small for the ackie to notice and are tolerant of the high temperatures in the cage. I would consider getting maybe 10-20 and establishing a culture in a tupperware tub before introducing some into your ackie's enclosure. I have also had good luck with powder orange isopods. All three of these isopod types appear to breed pretty quickly so they should take off.

As far as springtails go, as with the isopods you want to establish a culture and let the population grow for a little bit before you begin adding bunches into the enclosure.

Some other tips:

  • Add magnolia leaves (or any other good hardwood leaf) to your enclosure. As they decay they feed your isopods/springtails, but I also like them because they look nice in the enclosure and they appear to add enrichment for the ackie. My ackie likes to sniff them, flip them over, rustle them, just generally interact with and explore them. I got a bag of magnolia leaves off amazon.

  • I was advised to get cuttlebone or sepia bone and place tiny bits in my cultures and the places in the enclosure where my isos/springtails hang out most. These items are super calcium rich, and isos/springtails benefit from it.

  • Ensure your substrate is moist. Do not let it be super damp (especially toward the top,) but the substrate should be dark and more cakey down toward the bottom of the enclosure. I invested in a gardener's moisture meter to make sure the soil is moist enough.

  • When misting or adding moisture to your substrate, consider using filtered water rather than plain tap water. If your tap water is well water or something, it may not be necessary, but for a lot of people like me unfiltered municipal water has a lot of chlorine and things in it that can be detrimental to the balance of the soil.

    Here are some helpful videos that should give you all the general info you need for establishing a bioactive enclosure:

  • How to make an isopod culture

  • How to culture springtails

  • How to create a bioactive desert terrarium for ackies
u/Oburcuk · 2 pointsr/houseplants

Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FgLiDbZFW49K4

u/marvelousmarves · 2 pointsr/fiddleleaffig

If you think it might be a watering issue (which it sounds like from the other comments), I really recommend a moisture meter to help you understand what's going on in the soil! With a pot that big, it's hard to tell how wet or dry things are--the "top 2 inches" rule doesn't really work.

I just got this one, but there are some even cheaper options on Amazon if you don't want the light/pH readings.

u/DrPsyc · 2 pointsr/plantclinic

has there been any improvement over the past month? HERE is an article about proper care for your plant.

You stated that you only water when it seems dry but the article suggests once a week deep watering so that may be an issue. you also dont want to risk over watering so make sure your pot has good drainage at the bottom.

I highly suggest getting one of THESE and placing it in the pot to keep an eye one the light, water, and Ph levels.

u/RondaSwanson · 2 pointsr/IndoorGarden

Can you spend $10-15 on a moisture sensor like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) ? That will be the easiest and most accurate way to see if your plant is too dry/wet. If it is drying out that quickly it may be in too small a pot, and you could consider repotting.

u/SoAwake · 2 pointsr/Marvel
u/xavier_grayson · 2 pointsr/geek
u/dOiTdAVe · 2 pointsr/awesome

Thor Hammer Tool Set,Thor Battle Hammer tool set,Durable, Long Lasting Chrome Finish Tools with Thor Hammer case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KP3WB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IeGUDbGS823ZF

u/Andy_Onymous · 1 pointr/lawncare

This is what I have used - https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

Fellow Michigander here. You have plenty of time to get your yard off to a good start. I brought in soil but it is not always needed. Check and see where you are after the test.

u/blorgensplor · 1 pointr/HotPeppers

So I did the soil test kit that I bought. According to it the pH of my soil is at least 7.5, maybe a bit higher and the nitrogen content isn't detectable it's so low. Everything else looks good. I find it to be a bit odd considering the container is full of a rough mel's mix I put together of peat moss, vermiculite, compost, composted manure, and mushroom compost.

What would you recommend I do to the soil? As of right now the only ferts I have are 9-12-12, 4-15-14, and some miracle grow spray stuff that is 12-4-5.

u/Kimalyn · 1 pointr/mead

Can we be best friends??!

I have an idea for experimenting with Mead lees for fertilizer. Think straight up 4th grade science fair type stuff. Bean plants, same soil, same light, measuring how tall they get over a period of time. I think I'll start with a pure mead and experiment with various dilution amounts. Then I might go for a second round (once I've decided on optimum dilution from the first round) with various types of flavored mead. What I'd really like would be to test the contents of the lees for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels so I could compare it to fertilizers. So I'll probably buy something like this!

We could go into alcohol experimentation business together!

u/jc4orr · 1 pointr/HotPeppers

You can try bone meal, but the only way to tell if there is a nutrient deficiency is to test the soil. I used this kit and it was pretty simple.
As for pests, there are plenty of sprays available. Regardless of which one you choose, the important part is to be consistent and don't stop when you first see an improvement. There are still eggs that will hatch and start the whole process over again.

u/HukIt · 1 pointr/lawncare

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xv3yDbN3J1V2W

u/mexicatz · 1 pointr/lawncare

it wasn't an actual test by a lab i tried using one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

u/beepbeep_meow · 1 pointr/gardening

I agree, it's either that they're over-watered, malnourished, or both. If they're over-watered, the roots aren't getting any oxygen. They need to drink, but they need to breathe, too. If they sit in water, they rot.

This soil test is a good investment if they don't perk up from less frequent watering. It'll tell you what kind of fertilizer you need.

u/highwest13 · 1 pointr/lawncare

Yeah for sure. Buy something like this. You'll get an idea if your lawn is depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash. You'll also get a measurement of the soil's pH level.

I'd fix the soil first. Thick, lush grass depends on healthy soil.

u/cityworka · 1 pointr/Winnipeg

Hey, you seem very knowledgeable. Would this be a good test kit?

https://www.amazon.ca/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524508048&sr=8-2&keywords=lawn+test+kit

Also, I moved into a new house last fall. The grass in the front yard has some bald spots that I would like to try and remedy. When is the best time to hit this with fresh soil and grass seed? When is the best time to fertilize? Also, how to you pick which grass seed to buy? Thanks for any help with this.

u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/marijuanaenthusiasts

wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/

I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol

u/mmcremebrulee · 1 pointr/gardening

I test the soil in my gardening bed. I'm too scared to test the rest of my yard's soil, hah. This is the tester I use-- it's pretty fun!

The first year I found out my soil was low in Nitrogen so I amended with blood meal. This year I only amended with composted manure and things seem pretty happy.

u/phattywierz · 1 pointr/lawncare

No print out - I used this for the soil, and my API aquarium test kit to test the water.

u/Jayson182 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

How do the leaves feel? I'm not terribly experienced but if they're soft and limp (derp) then you're over-watering, crisp and under-watering. Both will have the same sag \ limp. Feel the weight of the pot and feel the soil a couple inches down to confirm if it needs water or not.
Get a soil kit like this and test your PH \ Nutes. Dial in your nutrients and correct the PH.
For the lighting, if money is an issue, you can add some CFL (2700k) for the cool color spectrum.

u/helpmylawnplz · 1 pointr/lawncare
u/-ChOoSeAUsErNaME · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I have both the 3in1 light/moisture/ph stick which seems to be accurate enough. Then I picked up this rapid soil test kit with N, P, K level tests included.

u/jlc767 · 1 pointr/lawncare

Thanks. I was just going to buy a soil test on Amazon. Something like this. Not good enough?

u/MMOAddict · 1 pointr/gardening

I have this gardening blade I bought on amazon a year or two ago and it's great for finishing off the plants. I point it towards the roots, just below the visible part of the plant, and hit it with a mallet and it severs the roots just below the surface. Unless it's an asparagus weed or a yucca or one of the other many plants that can grow from a root segment, it won't come back. If it is one of those type, persistence is the only way (just keep cutting it to the ground when it pops up, eventually it'll run out of steam.)

This is the blade I bought. There's another one for 14$ but I don't know how good it is.

u/beeglowbot · 1 pointr/homeowners

rip them out with a Garden Weasel Step and Twist Hand Weeder, Chemical Free Weeding, 36” Long, Red & Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3RRSCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwe4CbNR2JZY8

or a Nisaku NJP650 Hori-Hori Weeding & Digging Knife, Authentic Tomita (Est. 1960) Japanese Stainless Steel, 7.25" Blade, Wood Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WFG2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kwe4CbNXVR3WP

do it during spring when they first appear and you'll mostly be fine for the season cause it keeps them in check. It's when you allow then to seed that it gets outta hand.

Crabgrass though.....that's another story.

u/taro-topor · 1 pointr/japan

Japanese Hori Hori (ホリホリ) crop knives are cheap, unique and small to pack in your lugage. They are all around farm tool used for harvesting things like cabbages, weeding, planting, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Nisaku-NJP650-Hori-Hori-Stainless-Weeding/dp/B0007WFG2I

u/kaldoranz · 1 pointr/metaldetecting

I have always had good luck with a Japanese Hori Hori

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I

Very durable and compact but still can do lots of work.

u/PCBreakdown · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Birthday, Happy Birthday, /u/Sp3cia1K!

A machete totally relates to /u/Sp3cia1K. See, she's been been hard at work doing all the behind the scenes work on the bomb. And a bomb is a weapon. Just like a machete. Also, I think she's really sharp :)

u/Cellophane_Girl · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I sleep with this by the bed in case of intruders. We have a lot of blades and things around though. I'm just to lazy to track them all down and take photos lol.

u/EatCrayonsShitRainbo · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Why would you not own one.

u/gedden8co · 1 pointr/knives

Yep, check out this. At $19 you could buy 2.
However you might like one direct from Nepal.

u/This_is_Hank · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Those look too pretty to get all beat up out in the woods. I got this one several years ago and have no complaints so far.

u/snkp360 · 1 pointr/hcfactions

You guys need some of these if you want to do this correctly

http://www.amazon.com/Tine-Pitchfork-Non-Splinter-Fiberglass-Shaft/dp/B001AZLOEA

u/DonniQ · 1 pointr/CODZombies

If thats the case, people will spend the money, they safed for dlc 5, here:

https://www.amazon.com/Tine-Pitchfork-Non-Splinter-Fiberglass-Shaft/dp/B001AZLOEA

/s

u/Tomnnn · 1 pointr/technology

Cost analysis:

Well, this pitchfork costs $35.44.

u/Heitah · 1 pointr/funny

Apparently everyone needs pitch forks, so here you go, 28% off.

u/IDlOT · 1 pointr/gaming
u/flanged_weasel · 1 pointr/Survival

I have a Gerber in the trunk. It's okay. I would not want to dig a septic field with it, but it works fine for short duty and the locking system is solid. In winter I carry an avalanche shovel instead.

u/Trusty_Sidekick · 1 pointr/Bushcraft
u/blue_27 · 1 pointr/Survival

I like the Gerber.

u/darkjedidave · 1 pointr/knives

It is this one? I was planning but now debating on the Cold Steel one.

u/Rysdad · 1 pointr/PostCollapse

I also have one of these strapped to the back of my BOB. Not much additional weight, but pretty handy when needed: folding shovel This one's about $40 on Amazon, but there are many more less expensive...around $15 or so.

u/yt1300 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

And if you own a 4WD truck because you live in an area with incliment weather or poor roads, a small folding shovel like this one can be a life saver. I've broken apart giant chunks of ice, chopped down small trees and planted tulips with mine. It lives next to the tire jack under the rear seat. Super helpful.

u/aaron_writes · 1 pointr/Bushcraft
u/dsbtc · 1 pointr/Survival

Hijacking the top comment to say check out this awesome MacheteSaw

It's only 20 bucks. I definitely want one of these for camping. I also just have a thing for machetes, they're useful and awesome at the same time.

u/ThylacineTiger · 1 pointr/Axecraft

Any examples of it? I must admit I'm intrigued.

Edit: Found the culprit. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

u/theblackdane · 1 pointr/Axecraft

Remember that the lighter the axe head, the more work you have to do and the shorter the handle, the more dangerous. Unless you are 3 feet tall, boys axe or 3/4 axe with a 2.5lb head is in no way too small. The Husqvarna should be a good bet.

u/flat_pointer · 1 pointr/EDC

It kinda sounds like he has a lot of stuff and that you don't necessarily know every tiny thing he has / uses / lurves, which is understandable, because people who really think on their EDC-type stuff often buy and trade a lot of crap. I'd almost suggest trying to get out of the EDC-items box and getting him The Axe Book or Back to Basics, both of which cover skills around outdoorsy things. AB will cover how to cut down all kinds of trees with an axe; BTB covers all kinds of homesteading, food growing, basic skills required for such. Both have lots of neat illustrations and seem to come from pretty competent writers. The Axe Book has made me want to get a decent axe, which obviously isn't an EDC item, but it's a nice to have one. If you get something like that, just keep in mind, axes aren't made out of stainless steel, so he'll want some mineral oil / gun-lube type oil to keep rust away.

Otherwise there's always Celox and an Israeli combat bandage for the 'super bad emergency contingency' part of one's EDC. I like to have something like that in my day bag or in my car, just in case.

u/pariah1984 · 1 pointr/Axecraft

I also vote for the Husqvarna ‘multi purpose axe’. Shaped like the other swede forest axes, in a ‘boy’s axe’ size which I prefer over the larger axes for most work.

$75 on Amazon

u/HumanFogMachin3 · 1 pointr/wicked_edge

Such awesome axes.

Little spendy, and if you want to get one a little cheaper with little less fit and finish you can get a Husqvarna forest axe which is currently produced by Gransfors Bruks for Husqvarna, for about half the price of the full meal deal from gransfors

u/Punani_Punisher · 1 pointr/VEDC

If you want a great axe and not pay a crap ton for a Hultafor or Gransfors Bruks I highly recommend Husqvarna axes. They are made with Swedish steel and have decent handles. I keep a 26" Multipurpose in my vehicle and it has served me well.

u/42N71W · 1 pointr/hydro

> When do I need to stake them up?

The sooner the better. If you do it early, though, and use any kind of restrictive thing to attach it to the stakes, remember you'll have to periodically loosen.

> What is the best solution for this?

No idea. I used 6 foot stakes and velcro last time I grew tomatoes. Obviously you'll need to support the tops of those stakes somehow.

> What do I take out the smaller stems to allow for just one plant or continue with multiple?

Absolutely thin them. Choose the healthiest looking one, obviously. Tomato are big plants.

u/AnotherReptar · 1 pointr/microgrowery
u/J662b486h · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Better yet, the rolls of velcro tape where you can just cut whatever length you need. I use these for cable management all the time.

u/bull0143 · 1 pointr/Monstera

My Monstera came like this and it was already vining which made it even droopier so I attached it to a moss pole with plant-safe velcro (this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057567U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) zip ties work too, just make sure you are not attaching them too tightly, leave plenty of space so you don't cause circulation issues :)

u/the5nowman · 1 pointr/lawncare

Good price right now. It’s up in the $30s sometimes. Make sure you get the Coring one. I wore my work boots and just got into a rhythm as I did rows in my yard. Not “fun”, but it’s not hard. Sometimes have to knock the aerator against a rock to loosen dirt stuck inside.

Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator Manual Grass Dethatching Turf Plug Core Aeration Tool ID-6C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nVgtDbXTQ2MH2

u/2mnykitehs · 1 pointr/lawncare

My understanding is that core aerators work much better than spike aerators. You could get one of these, but I've heard they can clog pretty easily, especially if you have a lot of clay in your soil. For me, it was actually cheaper to have a lawn care company come out ($50) than it would have been to to rent an actual plug aerator.

u/DetroitHustlesHarder · 1 pointr/lawncare

For manual stomp aerator, are you talking about something like this? I was told that things like this are essentially worthless because they don't pull any plugs.

What about this for a dethatcher?

u/jimmyqex · 1 pointr/lawncare

You could rent one but that would likely be overkill for 900 sq ft. You could buy a manual one like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2G09ybVGG02FW

u/amayain · 1 pointr/lawncare

Yep, this thing. In general, it wasn't terrible, but some of the compacted solid required a bit of force and my hip was jacked up for a few days afterwards.

u/DaddyDano · 1 pointr/CampingGear

I would highly recommend the CRKT Chogan

u/Con_O_Sewer · 1 pointr/microgrowery

https://www.gemplers.com/product/ARS320/ARS-Grape-Scissors

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chikamasa-B-500sf-Stainless-Steel-Scissors-w-Fluorine-Coating-Resin-resistant/263795173535?epid=8016915205&hash=item3d6b6ae89f:g:IAQAAOSw7XNbPLH5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DeANBbJVTGJQ5

Heres what i grabbed except i got the curved and angled blade versions of the first two. Theres lots of other good ones though too im sure. I havent even tried these ones yet though so i cant really recommend them lol its just what i ordered after researching it.



u/TallowNoob · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing
u/SilentMasterpiece · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Immediately after a full trim (im lazy so I only want to handle and trim my crop one time). Then its on to dry and cure. I have a big 4'x4' oak box I dry in. Its outside on covered patio, I keep a rh meter in it. I have some control over humidity in the box through leaving the lid fully open, slightly open, closed, water bucket... I drop buds in bags and leave open for the 1st day or so (im bud washing so humidity is a little higher than if not washing). I have rh meter in the bag, when it gets down to 60-70 or so I fold over and clip the top closed. I monitor the bags 2,3,4 times a day. Its true, a very important part of the grow is dry/cure. I bet 99% of the crops that get jacked end up worse or trash because the thief does not know how to dry/cure. Good Luck bro/

I use these for bud trimming

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0FK7W6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ProctologyDoctor · 1 pointr/gardening
u/rufusclark · 1 pointr/houseplants

I love my houseplant meter. It is SUCH a big help.

u/MSACCESS4EVA · 1 pointr/Bonsai

> I've asked this question to everyone so far but it's conflicting so I like to hear from multiple people, how do you determine if the soil is dry? Like it's not damp anymore but the soil isn't exactly dry right now

I know exactly what you mean. I often heard, "Put your finger in it halfway down and if it feels wet..." OK, if I can get my finger past the roots... it feels... cold? Sort of... I guess? I eventually got one of those "wetness detector thingies", and it helped a lot. After using it a while, I just got better at estimating. Some of my potted plants have a schedule, some just tell me with their leaves, some I can judge just by the weight of the pot. The best solution, of course, is to use quick draining inorganic bonsai "soil" (not really 'soil' at all). Over-watering is almost completely impossible. It does mean you have to water much more often. Once every day, if not more for smaller pots.

u/crisplasagna17 · 1 pointr/houseplants

no problem! Here is the one I currently have. It’s $10. However, if that is too expensive, you can always do the stick your finger about 1-2 inches into the soil trick and you should be able to feel it out that way :)

u/ruger9shooter · 1 pointr/kayakfishing

This Cascade Stadium seat is the one you are looking for. I believe they are around $30 at Costco. I use the wire ties like these to keep it attached to my kayak. They can also be found for less at Walmart or Home Depot.

u/SpikedJester · 1 pointr/CampingGear

You could try Gear Tying it to the back of your pack. You will just need to take your pack off to check it.

u/Not_Joshy · 1 pointr/MTB

I like keeping a large Nite Ize Gear Tie wrapped onto my frame. Comes in super handy when parking my bike, I wrap it around the frame and front wheel, keeps the bike from wonking all over the place when I'm trying to balance it, lock it up, or hang it on my rack.

u/Ed3times · 1 pointr/SubaruEmbassy
u/TheDudeOntheCouch · 1 pointr/Ultralight

Have you tried anything like this?

Nite Ize GTBA-A2-R8 Original Gear Tie, Reusable Rubber Twist Tie, Made in the USA, Assortment, 8 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBO2Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z9.2BbJAY59BG

Sorry about the long ugly link I dont know how to change them to look nice on mobile

u/fattyhead · 1 pointr/headphones

> find a volume you're comfortable with and then lower volume just a bit more

That's a good rule to be extra safe but I heard finding the lowest volume you can tolerate was the most efficient method. I usually turn the volume just a small bit above the lowest volume where all the details are audible.


> Unless you're willing to invest in an dB-meter

How do people use a dB-meter for headphones? Do they just stab the dB-meter perpendicularly into the headphone cup?

Would this dB-meter be good for testing loudness?


Thank you for answering!

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I don't think you need an homologated profesional one just to take some measures in your house. I use a cheap decibel meter like this one to know (more or less) the volume I'm listening to. Most of them are accurate enough for home measurement.

Just keep it below 80 dB are you are good to go.

u/megankmartin · 1 pointr/IndoorGarden

A moisture meter like this one is very helpful and inexpensive. They're used by beginners and experts alike, and recommend by many pros. The back of the package usually lists the recommended readings for common types of plants. It takes out the guesswork.

Using larger/deeper plastic saucers at watering time may help you. They're inexpensive. Also, if you switch from top-watering to bottom-watering, you'll never overflow at all.
Happy growing! 🌿

u/OtherKindofMermaid · 1 pointr/loseit

Most of the time, it's the watering thst is the problem, either too much or too little. One of these can really help.

u/tarponator · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I can help with that. As long as you're using coco.

A perfectly moist solo cup of 100% coco weighs 280g. If you were to stick a moisture meter in the cup it would be sitting on the cusp of the blue Wet zone, but not in to it. When it gets down to about 240g a meter would read right on the cusp of Dry and now its time to water again, and bring it back to 280g. You are basically oscillating between the cusp of wet and dry, back and forth.

there is a myth out there that moisture meters dont work and for some reason all these newbie growers are missing out on a great tool to help them grow. And it will help them avoid the number one plant stunter out there - over watering. You have to rub off the oxidation with a pot scrubber once in a while. And check its accuracy once in a while by doing this esp if you are getting weird readings. get a cup of your medium medium that is dry and stick the probe in and it better be in the dry zone. Then add water until you think its medium moist and check the meter. It should be in the middle. Then fully water the cup and you should see the meter read Wet. Its easy. I have done this so many times I know how much they should weigh. Its hard to pick a cup and feel its weight because its small. Pots I can do that, but not cups, yet. This isn't really a calibration. Its a check. And if its off, then I throw the meter out and grab a new one.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014MJ8J2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/dickmcswaggin · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Chikamasa B-500SRF Curved Scissors with Fluorine Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195U2MLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0WE9AbTXE91WX

u/Nzuk · 1 pointr/homelab

Noticed my CPU and drive temperatures had increased recently, went to investigate and was welcomed with a huge cloud of dust as I opened the server!

Luckily no failures as I don’t think the issue was too bad yet.

Best tool I have found for the job, CompuCleaner Xpert. Cleaned out in about 2 minutes! - CompuCleaner Xpert - Electric Air Duster https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtz5AbS3XR8XK

u/B1LMAN · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Something like this?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=psdc_200925031_t1_B073F9NY1X

I was looking online for these things, and this seems pretty good. We have one can of compressed air, and my father says he can modify it so we can refill it when we need to, but getting this CompuCleaner seems easier; just plug in and use.

u/BartZeroSix · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Cans costs so much here (10-15€/unit) that I might get THIS instead.

u/wiseude · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dusters-CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549442202&sr=8-3&keywords=blower+for+pc for my pc and found it alot better then compressed air because it can clean a-lot of stuff much faster + it's a 1 time buy generally unless it breaks.

u/Fexxzz · 1 pointr/de_EDV

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01G1Z0RF0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hab mir den hier 2018 gekauft und der macht seinen Job wunderbar. Gibt's auch noch günstiger glaub ich. Erstaunlich stark, hab ich persönlich nicht erwartet und pustet selbst groben Staub ohne Probleme weg. Also auch ohne Probleme zwischen den Kühler - Streben etc.

Edit : rip erst jetzt gesehen dass der thread ne Woche alte ist.

u/ParaplegicPython · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Thanks, I picked [this one](Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ep5pDb3T1PGV9) so hopefully that does everything I need it to

u/crazycatnplantlady · 1 pointr/houseplants

I don't know, mine works very well. Maybe yours is broken?

Sorry, on my phone but I have this one: Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KP-wDbHT4Q2K7

u/The_Stealth_Man · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Here is what I am using.

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Filter w/ fan : https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Control-Australia-Charcoal/dp/B01MSEVQ3J/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539056270&sr=1-4&keywords=vivosun+4+inch

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I also bought some MDF board, and built a box for the fan to go into. It was a little louder than I wanted it to be, so now it's really quite. I will add a picture for you to check it out.

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Tent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JN8REQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I got one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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u/atpeters · 1 pointr/lawncare
u/sinroz · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Not using the smart meters for moisture, just light. Using this for moisture

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_wrmMDbYKEC1AJ

u/legalpothead · 1 pointr/trees

A $210 pH meter strikes me as an extravagance for this level of grow. You can use pH strips or better off, use a small standard soil pH tester.

The 4 inch carbon filter will work, but it's going to need an inline fan and some ducting hose.

Personally, I'd just get a small grow tent that fits the dimensions of your closet, and scrap the mylar and poly film. Then you can duct the fan and filter directly into your tent.

The tent only needs to be about 3 or 4 feet tall. You can place it on a table or stand if you want. Then you can sit in a chair when you tend your plants.

Some sort of adjustable rope system to hang the lamps.

I've grown more than a dozen crops indoors, and I've never worried about adding CO2 to the grow space. I'm aware of the benefits, but this might be more of an advanced consideration. If you're looking to economize, this would be one thing I think you could definitely cut for at least the first few grows.

One thing that could benefit you might be Marijuana Horticulture by Jorge Cervantes. He's been updating and revising this book for 35 years. So it's pretty comprehensive, and it can take you from first grow all the way up to how to grow top shelf bud. It will tell you exactly what soil and nutrients you need, which can save you a lot of money versus overpriced fancy boutique nutrients and designer potting soils. And it can help you troubleshoot the inevitable problems when they occur.

u/LordAutumnBottom · 1 pointr/gardening

>How deep down do you let it get dry? How are you determining that it's dry? Eyeballing the top, or sticking your finger into it?

I have a combination PH and wetness tester. I usually eyeball it, but I check the moisture with that if I'm not sure.

>Is there a hole in the bottom of the planter?

Yes

>Your soil can't possibly be pH of 1-2. What acidic thing have you been adding that would have dropped the pH that low? Test the tester on ordinary tap water. It should be 7.

I will try this - thanks.

>Stop adding lime, it's for agriculture outdoors, where the vastly larger volume of soil, plus processes of soil chemistry and weather, work to ameliorate and regulate its effects. It's not for planters, where it can quickly and catastrophically raise your pH to Stephen King Dead Zone levels. Is that the white stuff sprinkled on top? Did the pepper that's wilted start wilting after you sprinkled lime all over the soil?

Yes - the white stuff is the lime. I mixed it with water and poured it over both plants twice over a month or two. Like I said in the original post, one of the plants exploded and started doing fantastically when I added the lime, but the other one started looking like this. They're in the exact same planter, so I'm confused why it hurt one and helped the other. I'll cut out the lime though. Any recommendations on how to help the droopy plant at this point?

u/rab-byte · 1 pointr/DnDIY

Similar to this?

But a dice tower?

u/nighttimedaytime · 0 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Looks heavy and does not fold. Pouch or not, it would be a pain to transport.
For a cool gizmo I'd go for the 5 in 1 shovel.
Or more likely an inexpensive, lightweight, folding, backpacking shovel.
Or if I was going z-day survival, an E-tool.