Best gasket sealers according to redditors

We found 88 Reddit comments discussing the best gasket sealers. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Gasket Sealers:

u/Seabass18 · 8 pointsr/guns

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

u/Amoney8612 · 5 pointsr/phoenix

A couple dabs of RTV Silicone Sealant should work. Should be able to remove most of the residue with an exacto knife/box cutter blade when you when you want to take it off..just don't try to yank the bobblehead off, or dig into the dash with the blade. Keep it flat, work it back and forth. Nail polish remover may help with the residue. Or I'm sure there's some type of caulk removal product out there.

u/Yamarel · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

u/bigroblee · 3 pointsr/pics

Yes, but not the regular sealant. Use something like this; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Copper-Gasket-Compound/dp/B000M8NZ8E

u/awyeahmuffins · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For re-lidding? I used this.

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

u/TurnbullFL · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/davidrools · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

You'll just need a timing belt kit and water pump and you should be good to go. So $100. Don't forget the liquid gasket.

u/jvargaszabo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try going to an auto parts store and getting some silicone RTV, probably a small tube.

I could be totally off-base here, but that seems like it would have the desired effect. It's usually temperature resistant, and if you get it somewhere you don't want it, it usually scrapes off pretty easy. Not clothes, or hair unfortunately.

I think you're not supposed to get it on your skin. It'll dry/cure to a silicone gasket material. It's sometimes referred to as gasket maker.

u/shadaloo · 2 pointsr/FZ07

Hmm, okay. This is what I purchased, exhaust manifolds is one of the product applications. Should be okay, right?

u/SmokeShrubbery · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

Agreed, the little "top hat" shaped grommets are great. Might also be able to use gasket maker if nothing else fits. (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F81160-Hi-Temp-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=pd_sim_auto_1)

u/WayeeCool · 2 pointsr/Amd

Normally you fill the gap with high temperature silicone sealant. Liquid tape usually can't handle the heat from being that close to the die.

u/Face999 · 2 pointsr/Columbus

Try some very high-quality screwdriver bits. Get same valve grinding or the special stuff they sell, it's a grit in a tube.

THIS is a sample -
https://smile.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-470-DriveGrip-Anti-Cam-Fluid/dp/B008RMT63A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521416434&sr=8-1&keywords=screwdriver++grip+fluid

No idea if any auto shops have it local - I've had a tube for 30+years. They should have valve grinding compound (very similar stuff).

I have some very good screwdriver tips. One is only for firearms, other electronics (mainly).

Could also find a left-hand drill bit. Does it go into plastic or a threaded metal insert? If metal some penetrating oil might help, if plastic, the plastic actually compresses against it - sometimes a hot soldering iron against the screw will work, for both types - or FUBAR it up :)

u/LuciusVarinus · 2 pointsr/cars

For some cars isn't a bit of liquid gasket required to replace a valve cover gasket in corners where the gasket might not seal as well?

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/shroomers

SFD is awesome, especially because you can put silicone dabs on either side in the same spot and you've got yourself a SFD filter with an SSIP.

I have plenty of improvised jars (salsa cans, regular mouth pint jars, pasta sauce jars, honey jars, pickle jars etc...) that I have used these tyvek + silicone SSIP lids on and my only advice is to get the gasket silicone as compared to cheap store brand silicone because it takes the beating from repeated injection and repeated sterilizing much better in my opinion.

Alternatively, bags are fun to use. There are spawn bags and grow bags, and again I'll add a SSIP (...and let it cure! The silicone needs to cure first or you'll make a mess.) before sterilizing the bag and inoculating.

I've tried plastic lids, but for some reason they warped and/or contaminated consistently. I didn't like having to use the rubber gasket either, I suppose in retrospect I should have just siliconed the gasket into place. Perhaps it was the particular ones I purchased, but I didn't care for them much myself.

u/s0rce · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I'm not 100% clear what the part is that has failed but if its metal then try JB-weld, if its plastic then some fuel-resistant RTV sealant might work well

like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420-Permashield-Resistant-Dressing/dp/B007VIGCJW

I've also read about Seal-all (and see another recommendation for it), its marketed as fuel proof.

http://eclecticproducts.com/seal-all.html

u/silverfox762 · 2 pointsr/Harley

Supposedly "over 1000 photographs on over 1000 pages". If it's their printing, it's gonna be a great presentation. He also corrected every detail he found that was inaccurate in the first printing.

I'd love another old 74 (even a generator Shovel would be fine) to build and go through. I'm conflicted though... I've planned on buying and building a late FXR ('89-94) into a hot rod, but after our discussions I'm wondering if I shouldn't put that money into another 74 (next year for all of this). The FXR will be more gratifying for wheelies and such and doing burnouts in front of my bitch mother in law's house, but a 74 would just be, well, a 74, with all the joy of wrenching and riding that brings with it. If you keep posting photos as you go through the program, it'll help me decide on the 74.

By the way, it is my opinion that Gasgacinch (gorilla snot) is the best stuff going for case halves. It also works wonderfully as a rubberizing coat for paper or asbestos gaskets when putting together older bikes with warped or dinged gasket surfaces. Get a can and add it to your tool box. I'm pretty sure it's liquid latex, but who knows. A thin coat on both sides of the gasket (that you let dry before assembly: 5 minutes or less) will seal any scratches or dings in old cam covers, primary covers, rocker box covers, ratchet lids, kicker covers, and so on. For case assembly, a not-so-thin film on either side of the case halves that's allowed to mostly dry before assembly will seal the cases tighter than anything else I've found. The Permatex #2 works fine but I don't like the color. I'm just partial to the gorilla snot. NEVER had a leaky case or treated gasket with it.

Since you like tips, my "essential goopy stuff" box has these things in it... always-

  • Gasgacinch for all gaskets not o-ring or metal on older bikes as well as case halves,

  • Loctite, a bottle of each, blue and red,

  • Permatex high-temp Never Seez (anti-sieze goop with nickel and aluminum, for O2 sensors, spark plugs, fork stem nuts, and so on,

  • Red Line assembly lube,

  • Permatex spray battery terminal sealer,

  • white lithium grease (a tub and spray can for everything from sticking needle bearings to the outer race during 4-speed tranny assembly to Evo and earlier oil pumps- pack the gears with grease when assembling and it'll prime the pump right away... do an oil change once the motor is hot)

  • Moly bearing grease for high-pressure bearings and older bronze swingarm bushings,

  • Good multi-purpose grease for roller bearings, caged ball bearings, and so on (moly grease can cause bearing "skid"),

  • Permatex dielectric grease for Deutsch or Molex plugs and headlamp plugs,

  • Moly Blue chain lube (when it's not an o-ring chain and you have shut off the breather/chain-oiler),

  • Brasso liquid metal polish (for polishing old bronze bushings and getting oxidation off aluminum bits before putting a swap meet part on your bike)

  • And 3 old-school squirt cans- one with GM tranny fluid (for when you need a lightweight lube but assembly lube isn't called for like the slide on an SU carb), one with 20W50 (heavier lube), and one with kerosene (for flushing crud out of small nooks an crannies like bolt holes that have grease or other crud accumulated)

    Copy and paste and print it out and go shopping. :)
u/pleasuretohaveinclas · 2 pointsr/candlemaking

I use this: http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

Sometimes the hot wax melts the hot glue and then the wick travels which can get mighty dangerous.

u/Qlanger · 2 pointsr/CarFix

If you use silicone make sure to use a good one.

An ultra grey automotive silicone should work fine and be a color close to original car color.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K

You can find it at any parts store but that is what I would use.

u/black_pete · 2 pointsr/subaru

The passenger one is prone to leak more as it sits over the exhaust collector..
It's really not all that hard, the biggest issue is that unless you remove the timing covers, which means removing the timing belt. you have to tip the valve cover under the timing cover. Several tips:

  1. Use Threebond 1211.
  2. Be super meticulous cleaning up all the parts.
  3. Let the sealant cure at least 24 hours.
  4. Buy an offset ratcheting 10mm box wrench, you're welcome!
  5. Remove all the parts to give you good access to the valve cover.
  6. Once you have carefully placed the newly sealed valve cover on the head, stuff a towel or big rag in between the cover and the engine bay "wall", this will hold the cover in place well enough while you get the bolts in place.
  7. Remember to use a clocking pattern tightening the bolts, like you do with lug nuts..

    Mine leaked, I put in new gaskets, it leaked, I resealed it, it leaked, I had the engine rebuild, it leaked, I used Threebond. It has been a couple years now, no leaks. I sear by the stuff now. People talk about the lack of space and it's not great like on an inline 4, but it's not the worst..

    Three bond:https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Engine-Silcone-Gasket/dp/B000GZR4QC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4MJJYYACMDPR6WCCRM06

    The type of wrench I mean: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-10-mm-Reversible-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench-9610N/202738029
u/fong · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

As others have stated, the timing cover itself will need a high temp, oil resistant gasket maker like red RTV.

u/throw_away_232332 · 2 pointsr/klr650

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

u/ubelblatt · 2 pointsr/fixit

I would try this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K19YCX6/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SVYWYEN6B54TGCYR1XNR

Food grade silicone caulk. Supposed to be good up to 450 degrees. Let it cure for 48 hours.

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks like I may have miscopied it. Here it is

Looks like thingiverse was truncating the link for some reason. I used a shortener and that seemed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out!

u/NevilleDevil · 2 pointsr/overclocking

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

u/IlllIlIIllIlllllIIlI · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any 7700k delid tool should be good, rockit 88 is fairly common. This is a great thread if you need info/want to ask questions on delidding The process goes as such:

  1. After delidding you'll want to clean off the thermal paste from the die, and all the black silicone around the PCB (the silicone is the main reason for thermal issues... its too thick)

  2. Buy some liquid metal which is fairly cheap. Coolaboratory liquid ultra, thermalgrizzly conductonaut are two of the common liquid metals used

  3. Applying the liquid metal is kind of tricky because you need so little. There should be NO pooling of the LM at all on the die - you do not want it to squeeze out and leak. I cant emphasize this enough - you hardly need ANY... just an extremely thin sheet covering the die. It has also been reported on overclock forums that applying liquid metal to not only the die, but to the underside of the IHS itself can be beneficial thermally. In order to do this, use masking tape to cover everything but the area that the die would contact... then put a tiny amount of LM and rub it in as much as you can, then remove the masking tape!

  4. I'd recommending relidding (rockit has a relidding tool that you can buy separately I believe, in order to line the IHS up perfectly). To relid simply buy some of your own silicone and apply a dot in each corner, keep it minimal... just enough to hold the IHS in place.

  5. After relidding, you're gonna also need thermal paste to go between the IHS and your cooler. Thermalgrizzly's Kryonaut is the best. The quality of your thermal paste honestly doesn't make much of a difference though.
u/lay-z-1 · 1 pointr/preppers

Nothing like a test run to find out. If it fails try this instead.

u/renational · 1 pointr/DIY

thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
http://www.amazon.com//dp/B0002UEOPA

u/JimmJardashian · 1 pointr/guns

EZ Grip or this.

u/87AW11 · 1 pointr/mr2

I use a seal cutter. Fairly simple to use, just use a rubber dead blow to wedge it in and then hit the side to push it around the block.

The thing to watch out for is there is a baffle installed between the oil pan and the bottom of the block, all of which is sealed with RTV (could explain why you’re seeing so much of it). Once you get it separated, the pan/baffle like to get caught up on the oil pick up tube so be carful when pulling it down.

As for the stud and nut combo rather than a bolt, that’s factory, and I’m sure there is suppose to be 2 studs.

When putting it back together, the best RTV to use would be Toyota F.I.P.G..

u/osirhc · 1 pointr/ar15

When you did the DIY gas buster CH did you use the red silicone? I want it to be black but I'm unsure if this is the same stuff or not:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not sure, but I suppose I could tint it black later if I got the red...the black one has a slightly different name and I want to make sure it's the right/same stuff.

I'm about to check out walmart to see if they might have it for cheaper but I haven't been able to make it out yet.

u/johnny_depps_yorkie · 1 pointr/personalfinance

This is true. I should clarify that OP should check for these things himself...like go do it right now..it seriously just takes a minute. if you don't see these signs....you PROBABLY don't have a blown head gasket.

but you SHOULD still take your car to a second mechanic to do a pressure test/blown head gasket check IMMEDIATELY for a second opinion/confirmation of whether you do or do not have one.

and they confirm there is one, and if it's in it's early stages, like you said....they have products like this that might fix it without having to spend thousands to tear the engine apart.
http://www.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Head-Gasket-Sealer-ounce/dp/B000NOO798

do not just go out and buy that and pour it into your engine by the way, go talk to a second mechanic. if they confirm you have one, ask them their opinions about it, etc. i just posted that link to show you that there are products to seal a head gasket leak if it's in early stage leaking, and not yet past the point of repair

my main point is that blown head gaskets can easily be mis-diagnosed, or intentionally mis-diagnosed to swindle people out of money. and if you do have one the cost of fixing it varies from $50 to "total loss, time to buy a new car" depending on the severity of the gasket leak.

u/thareaper · 1 pointr/overclocking

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

u/Tyriddik · 1 pointr/WRX

Pro Tie 33529 SAE Size 48 Heavy Duty All Stainless Hose Clamp (Pack of 4), 2-9/16" to 3-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W6MBQIK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LEDAUT 2" x 50' Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap Roll for Motorcycle Fiberglass Heat Shield Tape with Stainless Ties https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B99B0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/DeathKoil · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

  • Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  • Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  • High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  • Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.
u/falkentyne · 1 pointr/overclocking

RTV Silicone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/

However the trick to making it easy to remove and easy to -delid a second time- with just your fingers (like let's say you messed up the LM) is to apply four VERY small dabs in each corner of the IHS, when using the relid kit. Each dab should be no larger than the size of a pin-head. If you made it the size of a grain of rice, that's a bit too much. If you can't measure or haven't seen a pinhead, half a grain of rice in size would be a good estimate :) Make sure when you delid the first time, you remove all of the original black goop Intel used. Some people also recommend sanding the entire edge of the IHS until the square ring is copper colored, to make sure it's flat.

u/bpodskalny · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

This.

As a Toyota tech we had to do this all the time.

This shit is magic. Highly recommended for your new gasket material: Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cA3aBbQ7M9372

u/daemon_spooler · 1 pointr/DIY

Aviation Form-a-Gasket.

I used to work on aircraft and I have a jar of this around from over ten years ago. It does not dry up or cure. It is like a messy tar. Outside, exposed, maybe dirt or dust would eventually form a skin.

u/JouetDompteur · 1 pointr/Throwers

I honestly prefer this stuff here over the clear one.

u/swolfe2 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Thank you for the quick reply! I believe that the leak is actually coming from above that area, and running down. The oil pan is actually sealed with http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0, which is not a true gasket.

u/cluecheck · 1 pointr/moped

It's easy lift the frame, don't remove back, just the front long bolt. Stick the front wheel in a milk crate. I can have a carb in and out pretty quickly.

Where is this airleak? I've never had a prob with an airleak at the carb on any of my hobbits...and i've owned a bunch of them.

Try this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062-High-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBGHB8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407247928&sr=8-2&keywords=gasket+sealant (you can get at local autostore)
from the intake of the cylinder to the intake itself, from intake to carb.\
It's also great for base gaskets too! Creates a good gas resistant seal, while not being permanent for easy removal later. Better then silicone crap that just squeezes out of the mating area.

IMO, the phva is just going to run like shit on a hobbit. The stock carb pushes the best velocity of gas/air to that cylinder on a hobbit.

Also not having an airfilter could potentially cause problems by not have any back pressure. I've always ran the stock airbox with my stock carb other wise, they would run like shit.

u/soyknee · 1 pointr/biggreenegg

Put a Rutland gasket on with permatex ultra copper rtv. You’ll never have to put another gasket on

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-DxDbD9RZRZZ

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l.DxDbSSQRWPR

u/grunge_ryder · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Maybe some Permatex #2 would help? It's the old standby for cooling system leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80011-Form-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBM6NG

u/LambdaNuC · 1 pointr/moto360

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

u/Odo1969 · 1 pointr/airguns

One more tweak to the products added to the breech seal and compression chamber air transfer port:

Use Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant over the air transfer port, and use Elmer's No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement over the breech seal. This not only improves the seal just a little bit, but also keeps your thumb cleaner since you are pushing down on dried rubber cement instead of tacky gasket sealant when you load the pellets.

I'm now getting between 560 and 580 fps using 7.2 grain .177 Daisy Pointed pellets. That's about 5.2 FPE, which is not too shabby for a gun that can be found for $65.

My only problem now is that one of my two guns shoots high, even with the rear sight adjusted all the way down. This is the opposite problem that many reviewers deal with, where the sight won't go high enough, because the gun shoots low. I guess I'll try some heavier pellets in that gun and see if that brings the POI down. Not a bad problem to have though, I think.

BTW, I'm also posting stuff on the GTA Forums under the pseudonym "Whirligig." The Crosman folks suggested that I post my experiments and experiences with the Benjamin Trail Nitro-Piston air pistols there.

u/becauseMotorcycle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

A little bit of RTV will seal that back up. While this is a temporary fix, I had ridden a Ninja 500 with a torn diaphragm using this fix for thousands of miles without noticing. YMMV

u/randatola · 1 pointr/BBQ

On my Big Green Egg I used a Rutland gasket and adhered it with Permatex ultra copper. This is a popular combination in Big Green Egg land. Many use 3m Super 77 spray adhesive instead of the Permatex.

The BGE is ceramic, not metal, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. As with sticking anything to any surface, the most important thing is that the surface is clean.

u/93sr20det · 1 pointr/ar15

This stuff is great for sealing up the gas key.

u/About5percent · 1 pointr/Cartalk

This rtv is what we use on high pressure glycol lines in injection blow molding machines. It works.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A

u/TaintedSquirrel · 1 pointr/intel

I'm in the same boat. I dug around on the Overclocking subreddit and the overwhelming majority say to not re-seal. You might get better temps w/o sealant since the IHS and die will sit closer. If you plan on re-selling the CPU eventually you will need to use sealant.

I think I will use a few small drops of Permatex silicone just to make the CPU easier to install in the mobo. I don't want to deal with the IHS sliding around.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U

u/blackcat016 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

Here ya go, Toyotas use this as a oil pan gasket, not in addition to a real gasket just this stuff, I’ve used it plenty of times to hold various gaskets in place and never had a comeback due to a leak.

u/bense · 1 pointr/Honda

It's a parasitic power loss. I cut the belt on my '01 Accord about 4 years ago.

You should go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing on the transmission. If that's the original 277k transmission, then you're going to have to rebuild it at some point. It sounds more difficult than it is. Here's a list of all the unique parts/tools. You'll know your ISB (input shaft bearing) has failed when you hear a gross/grinding noise that disappears when you're stopped, engine is running, but have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151645763545
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8O6K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGI8K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N37CUK

Honda OEM replacement parts for the bearing and seal.
91216-PL3-005
91002-PS0-013

Or something like this might be ideal for you. Not for me though. I'm cheap :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301677670901


u/xxsoultonesxx · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used THIS

u/Johny_McJonstien · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I have done probably a dozen of these. When disassembling, I have always found them sealed with silicone. I have also never had an issue with one leaking. I believe this is the stuff recommended in the service manual.

Of course, if that kit did happen to have a gasket for that location in it, I would use it.

u/moparman94 · 1 pointr/beetle

Yea it should be good for a bit. I did a new oil cooler and seals because the old one had a crack in it and made an absolute mess of things. New pushrod tubes and seals, valve cover gaskets, main seal, transmission input shaft seal. Basically everything I could get to without pulling the motor apart too far. Also, this stuff is your friend

u/Dan11151 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Here’s the link of the glue:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541959052&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=permatex+gasket+maker&dpPl=1&dpID=51L1E4q5CaL&ref=plSrch

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

u/crackered · 1 pointr/BBQ

I used some high-temp gasket sealer on my smoker (different style), so if the leaking ever bothers you, give it a try. Temp on this one goes up to 650*F, so can be used in most spots on a smoker.

u/Will7357 · 1 pointr/smoking

I’d search for the hole and put some flame retardant RTV over the hole.

Like this: Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RBlYBb9HRP754

u/ProximusAlpha · 1 pointr/ar15

It's leaking from under the under the gas block and around the gas tube. If it's leaking while it's new, it will only leak more over time. High-temp RTV would be a temporary fix. Don't get any in the gas port or inside the gas block. You can remove the gas tube and put some around the tube. Don't get any inside the tube.

I'm curious as to whether the barrel was dimpled for the set screws. Anyways, if the gas block and the barrel are not a good fit, your best bet would be to go with a clamp-on gas block--my preference over set-screw. There are a lot of options at just about every price range.

I would still check to see if there are any other issues with the gas system. Is the gas key staked? Is there any leakage between the gas key and the bolt carrier body? How tight are the gas rings between the bolt and the cylinder wall of the bolt carrier? If they're too tight, it might take some more shooting before they loosen up.

u/Aye_or_Nay · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Toyota makes the nicest oil sealant I've seen they use it around the valve covers on the v-6's and that stuff is both easy to work with and very durable.

Here's the part number: # 00295-00103 - Genuine Toyota Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0