Best hair removal tweezers according to redditors
We found 197 Reddit comments discussing the best hair removal tweezers. We ranked the 75 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 197 Reddit comments discussing the best hair removal tweezers. We ranked the 75 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Here's a $4 replacement.
I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.
Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.
Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:
Hand Tools
Clamps
Measuring/Marking
Sharpening Gear
Consumables
Safety Gear
Study ohm's law and battery safety. If used improperly, mech mods can become a pipebomb.
That being said, here's a list of stuff you should get.
[ingrown tweezers] (http://www.amazon.com/Tweezerman-Stainless-Steel-Ingrown-Splintertweeze/dp/B000EMYHA8)
LET'S DO THIS.
NAME: Bad Girl Cosmetics
BEST SELLER: Matte lipsticks named for badass chicks. Who doesn't want Eleanor Roosevelt's Ginger Dignity (a bright orange) or Sybil Ludington's Midnight Ride (a vampy plum), or Laura Jane Grace's Against Melon (a creamy melon!)
SLOGAN: Who run the world? GIRLS. And then after a nasty lawsuit with Beyonce - Ladies Doin' It For Themselves.
Item!
Macbook Pro
Garmin Fenix 5X
iPhone 8+
EagleTac D25C Ti Nichia 219C 4000K
Benchmade 1101-1 Pen with carbide tip and Schmidt easyflow 9000 M refills.
Microtech Cypher
Keys: P-7 Keychain Suspension Clip, TI-EDC Titanium Pill Fob with ibuprofen, Victorinox Minichamp Alox, Silver Gripper Tweezers, Titaner Titanium Toothpick, Nitecore TIP CRI
Uncle Bill's Sliver Grippers are very popular and have a good reputation: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KMSUA4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_n1HgDbFWNEYCD
Note that the CountyComm versions appears to be either the same or similar. Titanium offered as well: https://countycomm.com/products/tweezers-tick-splinter-removal
Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!
Part I
------
------
So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.
Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.
------
Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.
------
Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.
--------
Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.
To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).
Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.
[Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).
-------
Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.
Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.
Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).
-------
Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.
With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).
-------------
Permalink to Part II: https://www.reddit.com/r/RBA/comments/3xo2lv/rba_coil_question_newbie/cy6qbta
edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.
like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-piece-Large-Swiss-Tweezer/dp/B0035N8BWI/#
that pocket/hole was kind of a shock. I guess it's just where the pus built up, but it squeezed out the side of the area. Looks like there was another ingrown right next to the hole.
May I recommend some special "ingrown" tweezers? They were a favorite of a guy who had a massive channel devoted to ingrowns: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMYHA8/ This isn't a commission link - I just genuinely love mine - they are great. They can get something that tiny that regular tweezers can't. A bit pricey but worth it.
Clockwise from top left:
Not pictured because I think my dog stole it last night while I slept:
Edit: Update! My dog indeed stole and chewed my Bluetooth to bits. Guess I'm back to skullcandies for a while.
Hello EDCers, found this subreddit via /r/knives, so I figured I would join, say hi, and post my EDC stuff.
Any questions, comments, and suggestions are welcome.
What I carry depends on what I'm wearing, but the core is always this:
The rest of my EDC is pretty modular, and again, also depends on what I wear.
99% of the time I also have the following (i.e. when I go somewhere that doesn't have a zero-knife policy) on me:
Other things I carry if I'm wearing cargo pants or a jacket:
invest in some of these
The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.
So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.
(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)
(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)
This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/
Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44
There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).
There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.
Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO
Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG
I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.
A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U
Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.
Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO
I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.
I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)
Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/
Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6
A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS
I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.
I think you’re still good to go. Those components withstand those temperature all the time - a little molten plastic likely wouldn’t have damaged them (but the residue may char and eventually become hard black rock-like deposits and/or drip on your prints) - though your cleanup may, so as always take special care and double and triple check the steps before actually doing any procedure.
It’s probably overkill, but if you really wanted to, you can replace each component separately, though you may just want to order a full assembled hotend and scavenge it due to shipping costs, you can also source the same e3d components elsewhere (hint: e3d’s website is guaranteed authentic and they ship to US for as low as a few USD ;], though you can still potentially source them cheaper - for example 5 nozzles from e3D is $15 to $20 cheaper than those same 5 nozzles from Prusa, depending on if you want it tracked or not for e3d's cheapest). Note also some parts have their wires with custom lengths by Prusa - these parts you'll probably want to source direct from Prusa.
First, for a full breakdown, you should perform a few Atomic Pulls if you can, to remove as much plastic as possible from the inside of the hotend (more info here as #2).
There are about 3 screws you should remove for best access, which would be the print fan and shroud. Now you can remove the thermistor and heat cartridge very easily, just be careful with them as they are delicate. They may have become jammed with plastic, so I would recommend heating the block before loosening their screws. Take care to remove as much plastic from the thermistor hole as you can as the thermistor does not sit proud on one end, and this side may have plastic inside that will prevent you from reseating the thermistor later. You’ll need the two smallest hex keys from the kit (hopefully these are also included with the assembled?). Use a wrench (NOT pliers - you WILL scratch up the pretty heat block) to firmly grip the heat block, then loosen the two screws on the bottom by the nozzle. With those loose, you can gently push the heat cartridge and thermistor free (I used my hex keys for this).
Now you can easily scrub the heat block without concern of damaging the wires, though take care not to turn the heat block as you will loosen the heat break, which will cause you to leak plastic here later.
If you wanted, you can now easily remove the heat block, though it is probably recommended to remove it from the extruder body first. There are about another 6 screws preventing access. Remove the heat sink fan (the Noctua), then the two extruder body screws, and the extruder body should now easily pop apart. You can remove the hotend assembly by carefully tilting and pulling it towards the front of the printer, while applying a downwards force. It’s kinda tricky, but it’s not too hard and doesn’t require much force. With the hotend assembly removed, you can remove the heat block simply by unscrewing it from the heat break. Take special care as the heat break is delicate. The heat break must be seated at a certain depth into the heat block, so take care to measure this distance as best you can.
If you wanted, you could instead or also remove the heat sink. First, carefully remove the PTFE tube. Now, simply unscrew the heat break from the heat sink. There is a thermal compound that belongs on the threads here, which Prusa is kind enough to include with (I believe) the heat sinks (but not the solo breaks).
Now you have completely disassembled the hotend. You can scavenge any viable pieces, or replace whatever piece is necessary. Again, take very special care with reseating the heat break into the heat block. It must be at a very specific depth or the nozzle will not be able to properly seat against it, and plastic will drip out from these threads.
Of course, you could also order a whole preassembled hotend. I did that, then pulled the thermistor/heat cartridge on both the full new hotend and my used hotend, then I could pull and replace the whole hotend while leaving the thermistor/heat cartridge connected (skipping the whole wire loom debacle).
Of course this is all super overkill.
Just be careful around the wires. They're not super fragile, but they also aren't very strong. Too much force and you will snap them. They're not difficult or expensive to replace, but the wire loom can be annoying and time consuming
Okay, I'll bite. These are all items I currently carry in my EDC organizer that are under $10.
• Uncle Bill's tweezers (definitely not in the everyday use category, but superb for that "damn I need this" category. e.g. wife with metal filing splinter)
• 16 oz Nalgene (just started carrying mine and glad I did. e.g. I need to drink more water)
• Mirror (sure you can use your phone, but I've found it handy a few times. e.g. at work place before meetings; to pick that food out your teeth after lunch)
• Toothpicks (to pick said food from teeth before meeting)
• WD-40 pen (cuz... WD-40. e.g. squeaks and stuff)
• Hand Sanitizer pen (because germs. e.g. after a BBQ Brisket Quesadilla for lunch)
• Gorilla Glue super glue (again, used a few times, but in a "save the day" type of situation.)
• Plastic or Metal Collar Stays (I always seem to forget collar stays, so I pack them in my EDC organizer)
• $10 (in cash) (I've forgotten my wallet once before—but had my EDC organizer in my laptop bag—still got to eat lunch that day)
Yes I realize 4 of my items specifically mention "lunch".
Just start painting your nails and you will figure out what works best for you eventually. I've compiled a list of helpful links/videos that I've found helpful for me.
Dotting Tools:
Stripping tape:
The trick when you use stripping tape is to make sure your polish isn't old and too goopy, otherwise it will not be so crisp.
Cleaning
Nail Polish Brands
Top Coat and Base Coat
Nail Strengthening
Nail file
Have fun painting!
That's why I keep a pair of these in my box.
At the moment I'm running:
TEC Centipede - Titanium ruler that's about 8.5cm in length. I measure things irregularly, but not enough to warrant a full tape measure which will take up more pocket space. Feels super well made.
Leatherman Micra - Just got it, and I'm torn on how much I like it. Whilst beefy, the scissors sometimes flex whilst cutting thicker items (so it goes between the blades laterally). I've never had this problem with my Classic SD, and may end up moving up to a 74mm Victorinox like the Executive for the sake of the bigger scissors.
Boker Vox Access Tool - Titanium prybar with a carbide glass breaker on the end. I've come from the SD Titanium Prybar which was bloody useless for nail pulling due to the groove literally being a 'V' without any guiding for nails, and the edge of the bottle opener kept digging into my hand when I used it. Although for it's follies, the tip lip is very thin (yet sturdy) and can get between thinner crevices than the VAT; I also drove in a couple of nails with the SD, and in seeing if I could unscrew a half in one with the VAT, I chipped the guiding groove for the nail puller (not severely, but it was kind of disheartening as I literally just bought it and didn't think it was much of a stress test).
Kershaw Pub - Technically this isn't on my keys, as I put it in the 'snuff pocket' in my jeans, it's beefier than the VAT for box opening, and the blade is about the same size as a Stanley blade. It's a bit of a different design and great for fidgeting. Not so great for fidgeting when people see you, but fun all the same.
I've currently retired:
The SD Ti Prybar - See above, a great little prybar, hampered by a frankly stupid decision to put a bottle opener on it. NOT EVERYTHING NEEDS A BOTTLE OPENER.
Victorinox Classic SD - A present which I absolutely love, however I'm in the pursuit for something 'beefier', although the scissors on this are second to none for all the little odd jobs I've had over the years.
Uncle Bills Sliver Grippers - Brilliant tweezers for splinters, however the first day I put them on my keys, and then sat on my keys, I hadn't put them in the holder right and they stabbed me in the arse. These tweezers have never been on my keys since.
Resqme Car Escape tool - Had it on the keychain, realised I'd only ever use it in the car, and now I keep it in the glovebox as I have the glass breaker on the VAT.
Leatherman Squirt PS4 - An absolutely fantastic multitool let down by a shit pair of scissors which have a lot of play between the blades. It results in a lot of rough cuts and ultimately spoils a perfect out of the box multi-tool. In the pursuit of better scissors and a lighter set of keys, I've currently retired this fantastic piece of kit.
Leatherman Brewzer - I absolutely loved this little prybar, but it broke in half when I tried to get a little shelf stud out of a bookcase, and it just shattered my confidence in the product to the point that I can't be bothered sending it in under warranty, as I know I'd never use it again.
Gerber Dime - I bought this at the same time as the Squirt PS4 because I couldn't decide between them. After taking them both out of the packing and comparing them side by side one after the other, it was instantly obvious that the Leatherman was just the better fit, so this was retired pretty much instantly and was gifted within an hour.
True Utility Keytool - First keytool I ever had and it was great for years! Practically invisible and as I only used it for the file, the mini screwdriver, and the thread cutter, it was fantastic. Never had an issue with the quality, and never had the need to take it off the key it was on, I only stopped carrying it because I don't use the type of key it works with anymore, and don't want to carry it round for the sake of it when I have so many other options. Great little buy though.
I'm probably going to buy:
Victorinox Manager - This is pretty much the best multitool for what I really need, and it has a pen. It's just 58mm and I really want a larger pair of scissors, however it has all the tools I've used recently, and it has a pen!
Another Prybar. As soon as I find a beefy titanium 80mm~ straight prybar which doesn't have a bottle opener on it, and instead has another useful purpose I'm going to get it. Hell, even if it doesn't have a secondary purpose I'll probably get it as well.
Amazon
Super Big Hugs
I see a ton of "I'm not entering", so I'm going to enter. :)
1.01
93 cents
1.20
1.38
I would love any of these, just wanted to give you options! :)
Ok here goes. Pocket breakdown.
Front right pocket: Phone
Clipped to edge of front right pocket: Knife
Clipped to edge of back right pocket: Pen
Back left pocket: Wallet
Clipped to edge front left pocket: Flashlight
Also clipped to front left pocket: Keychain
Now for my flashlight philosophy. Phone lights are just kind of fine but they really stink as flashlights because they aren't very bright and can't throw more than about 15 feet. My $10 Olight i3E keychain light can throw like 100 feet, which is not all that far. My sidewalk from the road to my house is longer than 15 feet and I like to be able to see a good ways in front of me when walking at night. My main flashlight (Emisar D4) has adjustable brightness so I can put it really low in a movie theater or something when I need see to go pee but not disturb anyone, and I can also put it on full brightness to turn on the sun in any given direction if I need to see far or see a lot of stuff. Mostly it's just plain easier to grab a flashlight clipped to your picket and press a button than it is to pull out your phone, unlock it, swipe the quick settings onto screen, and then click the flashlight button.
Knife philosophy: I carry a dedicated knife because it's easier, faster, and more comfortable to use than any multitool. It always stays clipped in the right hand, tip up position so I just pull it out, deploy the blade, and start using it (and that all takes like half a second or less). If I tried doing the same with my Leatherman Squirt I'd have to pull out my keychain, find the Squirt, open the blade with the nail nic and then reposition my hand to start using it. That requires about 3 seconds (6x as long) and BOTH HANDS. Often when I need to cut something I'm supporting the thing with one hand already so I only have one hand free to get my knife.
Tweezers: take a look at these. You might be able to add them to your keychain: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KMSUA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1523632099&sr=8-1&keywords=keychain+tweezers&dpPl=1&dpID=41qJZ3wCLJL&ref=plSrch
I hope this helps!
Hell, if you aren't going to carry the SAK, you can save yourself a few bucks and buy backups at the same time.
Tiny chips out of your hands? These.
There are a bunch of small stirling engine designs out there that would make for good learning projects, and are kind of neat to have, if not particularly useful.
Edit: Fixed spelling.
This is likely not useful, but whatever:
Brushless motors shouldn't really be easy to burn.. especially with tiny hawk, it doesn't really have much power. Brushed motors suck.. brushes wear out, if you get stuff hot surfaces can get messed up and poor contact is made and things heat up oddly.. just trash. Brushless motors should basically just work.
Burning a brushless motor basically means you heat up coils to point enamel starts to melt/burn and coils short out .. the coil looks like it actually burned, it's black and smells like burning. Definitely happens but on stock tinyhawk I dunno, seems pretty unlikely to me.
Bearings go bad.. will make motor not spin as freely.. but it should still spin, its more as rpm goes up the vibration just gets insane. You should feel a tiny notchyness when turning motors from magnets, but if you feel any 'slop' kinda like the bell can sorta wobble a little..I dunno how to describe it.. but that's like a worn out bearing. Generally caused by crashes where motor takes a hard hit.. kinda hard to happen with tinyhawk with frame protecting motor.. but lots of hard crashes into solid objects bearings do go bad.
Motor shaft bends... again hard hits.. if when you spin motor if you look at it from bottom y ou should see a small even gap between bell and coils, like the magnets and coils. As you turn motor that gap should be pretty constant, if you ever see that gap get smaller such that two touch and rub.. might have a small bend in motor shaft. Happens from hard hits, again kinda unlikely with tinyhawk. With super tiny motors I'm also a little careful when installing the props, push straight down, pull straight up.. don't apply force at slight angles as that torque will be trying to bend the motor shaft.
Magnets come loose.. when looking from bottom you see that gap between bell/magnets and coils.. those magnets are held to bell with glue. If a magnet comes loose you'll see that nice even gap except you'll see one spot with no gap and the magnet is sorta up against the coil dragging. If you're going to throw a motor out anyways might as well pull it apart, pull off bell and look at bell and coils.. if any magnet seems shifted at all thats a problem.. if you look at coils if you see drag marks that's probably caused by a magnet that's loose scruffing up coils. Something was like physically wrong... basically magnets or motor shaft.
And then IMO most common issue with tinyhawk.. basically hair getting wrapped up in motor adding friction that makes it harder to spin. Combination of the frame and props.. I dunno what it is really but thing just sucks up hair. Any time I crash behind some furniture that doesn't get vacuumed frequently I got some tweasers I flip it over and pull out any hairs I see before they get tightly wound up. Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BAYWOFY IMO this is most common issue with those motors.. little tiny motors have so little torque, doesn't take much garbage getting wrapped around adding drag, it might even still feel fine to spin in your hand, but just that tiny bit of drag is enough to cause esc to be unable to get motor spinning from a stop. Like can't stress enough how little it takes, literally one hair can take out a motor.. to be fair my gf's hair is kind long but still.
I'd try to figure out exactly what is going wrong... you say motors keep burning up but .. are you sure? Just seems unlikely to me. I'd be careful to interchange 'not working' with 'burned' .
In my standard kit my tools would be:
Beyond just tools to find or retrieve a cache I have:
On my person:
Finally, in my big bag that stays in the trunk most times:
My wife likes to mock me with this.
Do yourself a favor and get one of these
I've got that exact slanted & pointed Tweezerman combo, definitely worth the $$. My most recent drunk/tipsy purchase are these silver grippers for on the go.
http://i.imgur.com/ku3FOPb.jpg
Got all the items! The gold ring is around revlon Matt balm in standout, there is a leaf from our house plant, my copy of hyperbole and a half and my fat cat Charlie.
Edit almost forgot, this is the item I would like if I won Spatty Extend Your Beauty Combo Set http://amzn.com/B00CXUHP6W it's an add on item, so let me know if I would need to choose something else. Possibly these kitty tweezers. Etude house Cat Tweezers
http://amzn.com/B005M17OK6
Tweezers Set 4-Piece Professional Stainless Steel Tweezers Gift with Travel Case by Aumelo - Best Precision Eyebrow and Splinter Ingrown Hair Removal Tweezer Tip,No Colored & Chemical Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HVKDTKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kAUoDbX9H5ZXX
These things!
You can get them for much cheaper too :)
Cat tweezers clearly a good choice
CoverGirl Lip perfection in Plum Twist
Peach hand cream
Lip stain
Here's a pretty little luminizer and look at these cute little cat tweezers!
I'm sorry about your foot :( I've never broken a bone, so I have no idea how painful it must be!
I have done large projects with Hama Minis. Don't tape method with Hama Minis. The height is way too inconsistent for this to work.
Do be sure to double check the height of every single bead you place. Especially with the lighter colors, some beads can be shorter than the actual pegs. Be sure to buy more of these than you need. I found about 10% of mine to be too short or too tall.
Make sure your iron is set really low. I mean really really low. The boards warp too easily, though they also easily flatten under weight.
Be very careful prying your sprite off of the board after you iron it. Whatever you do, don't over-iron.
Big sprites behave VERY differently from small sprites.
The pegs on the board snap off very easily, especially at the corners. ALL of my boards were missing at least one corner when I received them; presumably this happened during shipping.
Regular tweezers are a horrendous pain. Get yourself a pair of really nice, needlenose tweezers like these. The investment is worth it, even for single board sprites.
That's all I can think of for now. I'll edit if I think of something else.
I find that the shaft hairs and the hairs above the pubic bone don't actually hurt to pluck. Maybe they hurt the first time but they don't hurt at all now. In fact I've plucked enough that they just kind of slide out with a gentle tug.
Always pluck in the direction of the hair. If you don't get the root or the hair breaks off at the base you want it to keep growing in the right direction.
Plucking after a hot shower is idea. Exfoliate your junk in the shower and then pluck when you get out. I use one of those nylon loofahs and scrub the area I pluck every time I take a shower. It exfoliate the light skin grow that can begin to trap the newly grown hairs.
Get a good pair of tweezers. This part is critical. Most dudes don't even own tweezers and if they do they are probably some shitty pair that came with a little grooming kit somebody gave them as a Christmas present when they were a teenager. You need to invest in a good pair. I have two pairs that I use... the Tweezerman Stainless Steel Slant Tweezer and the Tweezerman Stainless Steel Ingrown Hair Splintertweeze. They make extremely high quality tweezers with a lifetime guarantee and free lifetime sharpening (if they ever seem to lose their gripping power you can send them back and they'll re-grind the tips for you).
The first tweezer should be your everyday tweezers. The second, the needle tip ones, should be for in grown hairs and careful use once you've gotten good at using the regular tweezers. I've gotten crazy good with the needle tip ones can I can do my entire tweezing area in a matter of minutes with a creepy spider-spinning-a-web like efficiency. If you start off with the needle ones you'll probably end up accidentally stabbing yourself in the sac. Still they're good to have on hand for the occasional ingrown hair.
On tweezing your sac: You can do it... but be prepared for a little more pain, a little more bleeding, and a marginally higher chance of ingrown hairs. The hair follicles on the sac are very close to the surface and the scrotum is blood vessel rich. The follicles are also freaking huge. Be prepared for a little bleeding when you first do it as those roots come out like you're yanking bath plugs out.
I'm trying to think of any other tips hmmm. Oh... hold the skin with a little bit of tension but not too tight. If you hold it too loose you pull the skin up pretty good when you pull the hair and that can smart a little bit. If you pull the skin too taunt the hair usually breaks off halfway down or annoyingly close to the skin. Experiment with a medium tension.
Edited to add:
Now you may be asking yourself, after reading this far... "God damn? Is it worth it?"
Yes. Yes it is.
I have all the benefits of a nice smooth shaft and pubic area without the regular irritation of shaving (plucking doesn't irritate my skin at all). No matter what the area is soft and smooth (even when the hair grows in it is growing a brand new hair and not pushing up a jagged piece of stubble). Your SO will appreciate it (my wife, for example, liked the shaved look but hated how, even after a good shave, there was still some irritation on her vulva/vaginal opening because of the residual stubble).
Give it at least a month to get used to it and do a good job thinning out the hair. After that if you decide you hate it... you'll at least have nice silky new hair grown to show for your effort instead of a stubbly angry bush.
Had to buy them myself. I found these will fit in the holes but I haven't been able to make mine move. Maybe it will when I get it back from repairs. There are other cheaper options. As long as it says "splinter tip" you should be fine. http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Pointed-Ingrown-Splinter-Tweezers/dp/B00PVWRLO0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
Do you have the slanted tweezerss? Like this or this or more expensive set that has 3 different types so you could see what works for you.
One of the slanted pair came with mine (like the single one above) and it worked fine i though.
> arsenal- ceramic tweezers
Are these okay?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00KAEWG76
I have this and I love it so dearly! I like the options and the case
Tweezerman Stainless Steel Slant Tweezer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EMYJ88/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HgzSub0RQ04XV
Oh hey there again username cousin!:D I'm gonna have to go with these nice pair of tweezers.It's only $1 with shipping and everything.yay cheap tools!
This is my cheapest thing.
I recommend a pair of fine point tweezers like these. $1.98 and free shipping (from China so order before you need them)
Its a little over 5$. but if you cant do that this will work too.
Stand back! I got this.
Cat tweezers! OMGCATS! The item I want matches your phrase perfectly! Thanks for doing this!!
Edit: stupid me forgot the link
I have one of these with my all the time and it's awesome for picking out knots.
I am jumping on that cute cat tweezer. It's so cute ;_;
Own the same pair, these are amazing.
Totally worth it.
Even if our knife has tweezers, I'd recommend getting a pair of Uncle Bill's tweezers as well. Best tweezers ever made. Amazon link.
You'll also need something to clip your leads when building your coils and some tweezers to pinch them tight and make them perform efficiently. These but regular fingernail/toenail clippers will do, and these allow you to pinch the coils while firing your mod, which you cannot do with all metal tweezers.
I use Tweetzy Tweezers and think highly of them, but have read nothing but glowing reviews of the sliver grippers.
Prime...shipping is always free!
Kanthal is fairly inexpensive
Ceramic Tweezers
This looks really cool
I love the Tweezerman Smooth Finish Facial Hair Remover (https://www.amazon.com/Tweezerman-Smooth-Finish-Facial-Remover/dp/B00IOVOFB2)! It took me about a day to figure out how to use it, but once you figure it out it's so fast, easy, and cheap compared with waxing and you don't have to worry about burning your skin or removing skin along with the hair. I also like that I can use it without a mirror, or even in the dark I suppose. The end result is much less red and inflamed than after waxing, too. I used to not bother getting rid of facial hair because it was a hassle, but this product changed my routine and my skin looks a lot smoother for it. If it seems like it's not removing any hair, watch a couple of YouTube videos on how to use it and you'll get the hang of it quickly. It's kind of like a manual epilator.
Thanks for everybody's replies! Taking the idea from the spudger kit I found that slanted tweezers for eyebrow plucking did the job quite nicely. Still needs a firm grip with the left hand, but I was able to jimmy the edges easily, pushing the capsule lid away from me. You can probably find this in a woman's makeup kit if you didn't want to buy a spudger kit
https://www.amazon.com/Slant-Tweezers-TweezerGuru-Professional-Stainless/dp/B016LI8E4S?th=1
A hot hair dryer makes it very easy for stuck coins to pop out.
Is it this tweezerman product? It looks scary! https://www.amazon.com/Tweezerman-Smooth-Finish-Remover-Tweezers/dp/B00IOVOFB2
Also do you just use any regular razor?
milkshake! thank you for doing this contest! <3
Tiny bit cheaper on Amazon, more for two, if you're already getting other stuff to qualify for free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LVUWK4
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q1EGUA
I keep Uncle Bill's Sliver Grippers and a Brush Pick in my wallet inside of a custom sheath made from card stock, tape and staples.
The Sliver Grippers are much more capable than SAK tweezers, and far lighter than a SAK Classic. The Brush Pick is plastic, like a SAK toothpick, but comes in bulk for relatively cheap, so you can toss them after they start to get a little gross and grab a new one. Also, the brush bit on the back fits right between my teeth and knocks food out of gaps in ways a SAK toothpick never could for me.
I don't have any idea on what's best in the RTA world because I pretty much stopped at the Subtank Mini but I can chip in on the supplies.
I purchased my cotton and wire from amazon, mainly because I had prime and shipping was free. The cotton I use is Koh Gen Do but really any organic, unbleached cotton is fine.
For wire, I bought a small spool of 26ga A1 Kanthal from Lightning Vapes but again, as long as it's A1 Kanthal resistance wire (or Nickel/Titanium for TC building) it should be ok.
Pretty much only picked 26ga because that's what was suggested. I don't do any crazy builds so it's worked out fine.
The little blue screwdriver that came with the tank is what I use to wrap my coils (using steam engine), otherwise you'll need a build kit or something else to build on.
I've got a little pouch that also contains a small pair of scissors, nail clippers, ceramic tipped tweezers and a 10ml bottle of unflavored VG in case I need something to prime the coil with.
If you're going to build really low, I'd suggest some sort of ohm reader to save your mod any extra wear and tear but it's not really needed as long as you've got a decent regulated mod.
Hope that helps and best of luck!
There are a lot of cool nail art thingies on Amazon for under $5!!
These little nail art gems are a great deal, plus you can even get the tweezer thing to put them on with, all under $5!
Amazon rocks and so do you for hosting!
https://www.amazon.com/Tweezers-Set-5-piece-Professional-Stainless/dp/B077W8YJJY
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.3/5 from 166 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Famazondealsus%2Fcomments%2Fcaha2e%2Fpureglo_tweezers_set_5piece_coupon_code7eb7ke37%2Fet8v3k5%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
Rake across the coil with something stiff like you're strumming a guitar. This gets the hotspots out 10 times out of 10 for me. I have ceremic tweezers like this (different brand, same tweezer), and use the opposite end (as in the non-tweezing end) to do it.
Amazon doesn't sell a lot of vapes, but they do sell some vape stuff like batteries, chargers, kanthal, cotton, etc.
I'd recommend some ceramic tweezers if you don't already have a pair.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00KAEWG76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416438185&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ceramic+tweezers&amp;pebp=1416438203422
I find that they twist way too much and sled one pitch together evenly.
This is what I have. Very comfortable, right amount of tension, and does a decent job gripping.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00KAEWG76
Uncle Bill’s Key Chain Tweezers are an inexpensive, convenient, and solid option if you go this route. I’m sure there are even nicer options, but I’m not the kind of person who needs premium tweezers on a daily basis
Another suggestion would be to get a pair of ceramic tweezers so you can squeeze your coils together while you are pulsing them. These are pretty decent.
I would love to get some Revlon Tweezers! I desperately need a pair because my old pair is getting dull and I hear Revlon is a pretty good substitute for Tweezerman! Thanks for hosting!
I've been good I swear!!
These splinter tweezers are on my camping WL, but we actually need them for around the house as well. They look very effective, unlike the wonky, unwieldy tweezers we have now.
Also, these cooking utensils as ours are getting quite grody >.<
Where's the aspirin?! Thanks for the contest!! <3
https://www.amazon.com/Sliver-Gripper-Uncle-Bills-Tweezers/dp/B001KMSUA4
You can get quite a few of those together for $25, but obviously different places. I would map out what you use the most:
Notepad, pen, lighter, pliers, scissors, screwdriver, flashlight are all great to have.
http://www.amazon.com/eGear-PICO-Zipper-Light-Blue/dp/B001SAM0IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344376840&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pico+light are a better choice over the streamlight. You can often pick up Micras for $15 or less at Target or Menards on clearance/sale
I prefer the Meretac, but http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Flashlights-E01FL-Compact-Flashlight/dp/B002YLTU3Q/ref=pd_sim_hi_12 is a good option
http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA/ref=pd_sim_sg_66
http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4/ref=pd_sim_sg_79
You can find a lot of Amazon items... I'll go through my purchase history and see what else...
I suggest wiggling them back and forth before trying to turn them, it loosens up the joints.
Alternatively, you can put the skirt armor together and use that as a lever to rotate the tabs.
Personally I have a pair of metal tweezers with a wide tip that I used. [edit: similar pair]
You could buy a coil master V2, but you don't really need to buy one of those full kits.
I bought a coil spinner for $5 at a B&M, but you can get away with wrapping them around the shaft of a precision screwdriver or a drill bit.
You should get an ohm meter. I know you can check it on your mod, but it still can short out and ruin it. I have done this.
You can use any scissors. You might want to pick up some fabric ones later on. I use this this.
You can buy wire cutters if you don't already have them, but honestly I use a nail clipper most often.
You can buy cotton cheaply on Amazon. But it takes a long time to ship. I ordered mine January 7th and it will arrive February 24th. So in the meantime I picked some up at a B&M for $5 which isn't a lot of cotton, but will last me for longer than it will take for my order to arrive.
You can also use any tweezers to pinch and position coils, but if you want to buy ceramic ones, then you can do it while firing the coil. You should not dry fire or pinch nickel or titanium coils though. Just stainless steel or kanthal.
>It's the ceramic tweezers that you get butchered on.
Really? These are $3.33 shipped.
Are these the ones? Someone else recommended these earlier as well. Any opinion which might be better (apart from price)?
If you want to wait a couple of weeks, you can get these for $3.50 on amazon
I think you'll pick this as the item you'll purchase with this order
Happy happy cake day
Tweezers to hold my tiny sculpture pieces while I paint them! I'm sick of painting the tis of my fingers trying to hold them! :D
Thanks for your input, I wrapped some electrical and duct tape around my sharpie, and I think I'm gonna get some of these. They look well built, Also do you have a pic of your Maxpedition Organizer setup?
They beat me to it....Lightning Vapes on Amazon $11 link
Hinderer XM-18 3" w/ slicer grind,
Zippo lighter,
Saddleback wallet,
Maratac flashlight,
Scout Leather Co. hook,
Uncle Bill's tweezers,
Fisher space pen.
> I'm just impressed that you still have the tweezers.
I just bought a pack of spares of those as they do tend to disappear.
FWIW, I do vertical clapton builds on my Aromamizer (velocity style deck). I bought these tweezers which are just small enough to grab cotton from the bottom of a 2.5mm or larger coil. It makes wicking those much easier because you wind up with cotton at the bottom that hasn't been pulled through a coil and so is easier to fluff up.
$1.19
The prybar/multitool is a Maserin 905. There's also a set of Uncle Bill's Sliver Gripper tweezers. The copper/tritium fob is a Berlin TiWorks Glowworm v2. Since this photo was made I've tried several keychain lights and currently have a Cooyoo Quantum added on.
If you have to pluck, only pluck the hairs in the VERY middle (Like only from a space less than the width of your pinky right in the center). Ideally you would just let them grow to get best results from the wax, but I'm the same way where I get self conscious with them as well. Filling in the hairs growing in will also help disguise what's going on.
I've actually also tried the same NYX marker and it definitely pulls red on me as well, plus I found it hard to blend. You can definitely find good products from the drugstore, my suggestion is to buy from one with a good return policy because I've found a lot to be reddish and what you should look for is ashy brown. Drawing in the color like little hairs and blending afterwards with a spoolie brush are vital to getting a natural look. I have really dark brows and light skin, and that helps me fill in patches/my scar without looking too intense. I want it to look like I'm not wearing any brow pencil at all. (When I was about 10, my grandma told me my eyebrows were too black and to stop coloring them in. I didn't even know people filled in their brows!)
I've heard great things about Benefit's brow bar. The girls at my local one have super thin brows, so I never have put my brows in their hands. To be honest, I try to get mine done by someone else who has full brows :P I get threaded. It's cheaper than waxing, the results are very clean, and all the girls have amazingly full brows. Bringing a picture is a good idea. After you have the shape you like, you can tell them you "just want a clean up" and mention you like full brows.
I have never owned Tweezerman but they're supposed to be awesome. This is the pair I use. Revlon offers free sharpening of their tweezers in case they get dull, you just have to mail them in and wait. I've owned a couple other drugstore brands that I hated. They didn't have enough tension, they were too dull to actually pull hairs out, etc. Since I bought the Revlon a few years ago I have loved them. I actually bought a pair from Anastasia to see the difference, and I still reach for the Revlon. For me personally, they just weren't worth $28. I'm on a budget and have to pick and choose where to splurge, I kind of regret the Anastasia tweezers to be honest.