Best hammers according to redditors

We found 359 Reddit comments discussing the best hammers. We ranked the 216 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Ball-peen hammers
Claw hammers
Tack hammers
Dead-blow hammers
Drilling hammers
Drywall hammers
Engineers hammers
Hammer holsters
Masonry hammers
Shingle hammers
Welding hammers
Hammer handles

Top Reddit comments about Hammers:

u/Roxas-The-Nobody · 94 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/SnailLester · 17 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This might come in handy.

u/repressl · 17 pointsr/rockhounds

Ok she's going to need a rock hammer. I recommend an estwing like this:

hand lens (not a magnifying glass)! Every geo has one:

Journal/composition book for her to take notes and catalog her findings

Other things to think about: geology summer camp, local rockhounding groups/clubs, identification book, mineral ID kit, vest with lots of pockets, boxes for the rocks to be stored in, and good boots.

u/wanakoworks · 16 pointsr/AskPhotography

most definitely possible. you can either use an EF-E mount adapter like metabones or sigma, OR my preferred method to get the best quality (requires some DIY), is to get a set of these, lightly and i do mean LIGHTLY taper out the mount to the right shape of the lens mount. Tapping the end of the tool with one of these, for stubborn spots. Don't worry if you slip a bit and hit the sensor. Anything that shows up in your images, you can crop out in post.

Clean it up and polish it down with this. Best stuff in the business.


You'll be 🔪🔪☠KILLING IT 🔪🔪☠ in the photography game afterwards. All you pics will be 🔥🔥LIT🧯🧯!

u/give_me_candy · 14 pointsr/DIY

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.

Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

  • Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.

  • Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.

  • Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.

  • Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.

  • Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.

  • Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.

  • Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.

  • Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.

  • Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.

  • Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.

  • Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.

  • Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.

    *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.

    For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly
    $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.

    As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly
    $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.

    All told, the laptop case itself cost about
    $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.

    As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.

    Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
u/Floridacracker720 · 9 pointsr/Welding

I bought this chipping hammer and love it.

u/rompenstein · 9 pointsr/Tools

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

u/PlainTrain · 7 pointsr/bestoflegaladvice

I don't see how he'd get in trouble carrying the thing around in public unless he started threatening people with it. At first glance, it just looks like a variety of pick-axe. Given that this is in California, it might cause cancer.

u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.


$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal


$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal


$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal



u/SJdport57 · 5 pointsr/beholdthemasterrace

Yeah it’s the Cold Steel War Hammer. Only $50!

u/AlicSkywalker · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:

This'll probably work too:

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast:

u/jdorje · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

A tool like this will let you fit this into a standard mobo pci-e slot.

u/Ddosvulcan · 5 pointsr/Spooncarving

I'm not a huge fan of hook knives as I prefer to carve seasoned hardwoods rather than green, so I prefer gouges instead. I love my set of Flexcut Deluxe Palm Set for detail work, well worth the investment for me with excellent steel, quality, and fit/finish. The only problem is the relative small size, making large amounts of stock removal a chore even with a mallet. I plan to invest in a set of Flexcut's mallet tools next and use larger antique carving gouges for that task. As for a mallet, I love my Wood is Good mallet for gouges, and a chisel hammer for bench chisels. The carving mallet allows you to put different angles and power behind your blows for carving, while the chisel hammer lets you connect very squarely.

For me at least, a spokeshave is a must for contouring the outer bowl and handle. I prefer a good antique Stanley 53 as you can adjust the mouth to quickly dial in depth of cut. They are affordable on the secondhand market and depending on where you live can be found at flea markets and antique shops. Veritas also makes multiple models that i have heard great things about and plan to purchase one of those in the future as well.

Rather than an axe, I prefer a small draw knife for roughing work. I currently have the Flexcut 5" which isn't bad if you can get it on sale, but it is a bit smaller than I would like. Currently on the lookout for a larger antique one at a good price. If I am going to use an axe, I like a sharp hewing hatchet, as it is easier to get the bevel to bite accurately without gouging too deeply.

A good carving knife is beneficial, but I find myself using my bench chisels for that work more often. You don't need to go too crazy here as they are very simple tools, and you can get sets on Amazon for cheap. I like my VonHaus set, and have heard good things about Narex as well. I have a set of Flexcut carving knives but honestly find the pelican knives useless and would much rather have something else, but do use the carving knife and detail knife on occasion. Wish this set would have come with any other 2 knives.

Whatever tools you decide on, invest equally in your sharpening system. The best tools on the planet aren't worth anything if they dull and you can't bring them back to a pristine edge, especially in seasoned hardwoods. Tools that allow you to control depth of cut are going to give you a more precise and evenly contoured look, whereas tools without depth control will give you a more rustic and uneven look. Each has their place and are fun to explore and mix. I prefer symmetrical, even shapes normally but love to switch it up and try new techniques. If you don't have the cash to make big purchases, start scouring local flea markets and antique shops. Normally there is at least one booth at flea markets specializing in cheap old tools which you will need to learn to restore. There is usually at least one antique shop as well that specializes in old tools (some woodworking specifically) that you want to search for. Be careful though, acquiring and restoring antique tools can end up being just as fun as using them. If you have any questions, just let me know!

u/Geotolkien · 5 pointsr/funny

As for the rock hammer I recommend one of these estwing brand hammers:

Used one in college geology courses, extremely well built.

u/Combat_crocs · 4 pointsr/ar15

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

u/hobbesbobbes · 4 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

Wow, quick with the sarcasm and insults. I'm agreeing with you. Hardness is more important than sharpness. I've split whole cords of wood with a dull maul like this one. Just because you can split with a sharp axe doesn't mean it's necessary.

u/Dvst8or1980 · 4 pointsr/woodworking

-The black case is Veritas' Cabinetmaker's Installation Kit,41504
It includes:
-Low-Angle Jack Plane w/ 2 blades
-3 Butt chisels
-Flush-Cut saw
-2 Japanese Milled-Tooth files (flat and half-round)

The shoulder plane is Veritas Medium shoulder plane,41182,41192,48430&p=48430

Hammer is Thor with soft and hard face

A set of 4 Veritas Super-Hard milled scrapers,310,41069

And last is Rockler quick release front vise

u/Xanatos24 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

It works. Both Paul Sellers and Richard Maguire use this guy: (as do I, but I don't have their credentials)

u/Freshgeek · 3 pointsr/geology

Not a hatchet, but This Guy

u/StanleyVermin · 3 pointsr/woodworking

They reduce some of the vibration. I use that hammer with a wood handle for most things and I use this one for jobs that need a more durable hammer, like concrete work 200 bucks is a lot cheaper than shoulder surgery which I will be needing in the near future.

The weight is a bigger issue for you joints with how they are engineering hammers now. Titanium is denser than steel so you get the same swinging power with less weight.

Martinez tools made a 16oz titanium handled hammer with a steel head so you get the best of both worlds.

Spend the money now on good hammers so you don't have spend it on repairing your body in the future.

/hammer rant

u/roaks · 3 pointsr/diablo2

Fake news!!! It's actually $46 on amazon

u/abnormal_human · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I wouldn't recommend buying that list.

Replace the marking gauge with the basic Veritas model ($18->32). Or skip that entirely and make a marking gauge yourself.

Replace that Japanese hammer with this mallet. This has enough range to work for everything from carving to bench work/joinery, and it won't ruin western chisels like that japanese one.

If you're dead set on getting 4 chisels for $50 or less, head over here and get these Narex chisels. They are different from the ones on amazon and generally considered to be superior. If you can stretch a little bit more, buy the chisels I wish I bought when I was first starting out.

That vise is junk, but you need a way to hold your work. You can do a lot with a few clamps (and, unlike a disposable vise, they will be useful forever). Or build a simple viseless workbench early on. Or buy a vise screw and make a vise out of wood.

I'm not a japanese saw expert, but you could cut that list down to one Ryoba and add incrementally later.

Those "bench cookies" are fine to support work during finishing. I have some deployed right now...but they are a small optimization that you don't need to spend money on just yet.

If you're going to buy a cheap combination square, go to the hardware store and test it out before you buy to make sure it reliably locks down square. If you want something that you can order online and trust, it's going to cost a lot more (Starrett, etc). You really need a square that extends to 12" to cover your bases, but if you can swing it, get a 6" too. It's the one you'll be using 80% of the time.

u/Doomnahct · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sounds like you need a warhammer

u/MisterNoisy · 3 pointsr/gundeals

I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.

EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.

EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.

u/mannyi31 · 3 pointsr/Windows10
u/TectonicWafer · 3 pointsr/geology

Practical or decorative?


u/_Skylake_ · 2 pointsr/Tools

Depends solely on the tool. I'm not tool band loyal

These tools are the ones I carry on me and use most of the time :

T-handle hex : Klein

Nut drivers : Klein Tools 647 Cushion-Grip Nut Driver Set with 6-Inch Shanks (7-Piece)

Ratcheting wrenches : GearWrench 9509 13-Piece SAE Reversible Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set hard to beat for the price)

Screwdriver pry bar set: Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece

Adjustable wrenches: Klein Tools D50710 Adjustable Wrench with Extra Capactity, 10-Inch and Knipex

Diagonal cutters: Knipex 7401200SBA 8-Inch High Leverage Diagonal Cutters

Pliers: Knipex 8701180 7-1/4-Inch Cobra Pliers

Ball peen hammer : Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce

And I carry them all in my veto bag

Harbor freight: toolbox , punches, and allen set

u/nomoneypenny · 2 pointsr/guns

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

  • Torquing things:

    • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.

    • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.

    • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.

    • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.

    • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.

  • Pushing in roll pins:

    • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.

    • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.

    • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.

    • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.

    • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.

  • Specialty / miscellaneous

    • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.

    • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.

      I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!
u/dapeche · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For anyone else seeing this, before posting an Amazon link, please make sure to remove the affiliate link (tag=xxx) portion or just remove ALL the stuff after the product number, such as:

u/helium_farts · 2 pointsr/standupshots

Though if you really want to make an impact then you really should be using a splitting maul.

u/thekong · 2 pointsr/pics

I found a few versions, but this is my favorite.

u/luxh · 2 pointsr/boardgames

This mallet works pretty well for getting pieces to fit together: TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm

Also, I only use glue a few times per insert, when a joint feels particularly loose. Most brands fit together nicely and feel quite sturdy when they’re done. I second the recommendation for gorilla wood glue on this front.

u/LJ-Rubicon · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/robincageheavenrage · 2 pointsr/rockhounds

A couple ideas:

A rock hammer/pick- This is the most popular and here is the slightly fancier version.

Every rockhound needs a bag or bucket to carry their rocks while out hounding. I use this but a popular choice seems to be a canvas messenger-like bag such as this one.

u/PhysicsDude55 · 2 pointsr/Tools

First, I would not recommend using those rubber caps - they'll probably leave black marks on whatever you're hitting.

I would recommend getting a specific non-marring hammer rather that putting a rubber cup over a regular hammer.

I really like this hammer:
TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm

Also, a few layers of electrical tape on a regular hammer works too, in a pinch.

u/cosdmpptjctq · 2 pointsr/4chan

This is where having a geology degree comes in handy. I frequently carry one of these with me. I even have a belt holder for it. If anyone asks, I just say I'm a geologist.

That sharp point is sharp as fuck.

u/MartzReddit · 2 pointsr/woodworking

From left to right, top to bottom:

u/elipseses · 2 pointsr/EDC

I used to carry that same model hammer, but then I found this beauty. Much better for EDC, leaves me tons of room for other essentials.

u/Q-ArtsMedia · 2 pointsr/rockhounds

Rock hammer examples- - -

Eye protection (z-87 rated) safety glasses or goggles (Goggles preferred).

Cold chisel 12 - 16 inch long 3\4 to 1 inch edge example

Leather work gloves

3 lb hammer example

Magnifying loop 30x

Plastic baggies 1 gallon size for rocks.

Back pack

Gold pan, perhaps.

Pry bar is some times handy

u/SoftwareMaven · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

  • A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  • Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  • A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  • A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  • A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  • Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.

    I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.

    As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.

    Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).

    If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.

    The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
u/Cenomaniac · 2 pointsr/ar15

First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).

Then of course a proper hammer

Then some starter punches

Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)

Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.

u/crystalistwo · 2 pointsr/Showerthoughts

You can do this now. Just buy this $16 memory eraser.

u/gordallott · 2 pointsr/playstation
u/ArchDucky · 2 pointsr/gaming

How to Speed Up a Computer
^^^By ^^^ArchDucky

Step 1 : Open up the case and blow out the dust with a can of compressed air. Do this outside or in the bedroom of an enemy.
Step 2 : Run Windows Disc Cleanup, CCleaner and Malware Bytes. They are free so don't pay for them.
Step 3 : Run Windows Defrag several times. (Several means more than once.)

And if that doesn't work, purchase this device from amazon and apply liberally to the inside and outside of the case.

u/Flaxmoore · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Under $50? Oy, so many choices.

Opinel knives. Any of them. Sharp as hell, thin blades, cheap enough that if you break one, you don't care.

Nemosine Singularity $20, but a simple and nearly bulletproof fountain pen. Makes my life much easier and my hands hurt much less after a long day writing.

Old Hickory kitchen knives. They're carbon steel and will rust if you don't clean and dry them after each use, but the thin blades and good geometry made a $12 butcher my favorite knife in the block. Mine took some work with a file to get the point sharp, but for $10 it was worth it.

Estwing tools. My hammer has kept grinning through 15 years of work, and still is in excellent shape. One reviewer complains of a ringing noise- never heard it.

u/guttermonkey · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The zombies ate my brains yet I was able to come up with a couple items:

  • Cricket Bat - not necessarily unusual thanks to Shawn of the Dead, but unusual to own in the US. Would be great for smashing heads.
  • Sickle - not quite as good for range, but would be good for beheading.
  • A Spear would be good to keep them at range and run less risk of a bite.
  • You could be a badass like Tyrese in the Walking Dead comic and use a regular old Claw Hammer
  • Some leather forearm guards would be good for reducing your chance of a bite while using any melee weapons.
  • You could also go all Dead Rising and carry around a stack of traffic cones to slap on their heads...

    Gotta get back to work, but thanks for this it was amusing...
u/Jwast · 2 pointsr/ar15

Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.

Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.

Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.

For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.

Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.

Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.

u/Kyoti · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Thank you for extending it another day, I haven't had the chance to sit down and look through my lists yet!

How about 133 $.15 Amazon gift cards? ;-) I know, that counts as digital, I'm just bein' silly.

Really though, I have to start with this, to keep my darn cat from tracking litter all through the bathroom and the rest of the apartment! (On this list)

Next, these tools would make cooking just a liiiittle easier; it's hard to get pasta out of a pot with a fork. (On this list)

This will make things just a bit easier when it comes to hanging up my nail polish rack. (On this list)

Currently that takes us to $19.81, all with Prime shipping! Gifting is fun! :-D

u/kevincreeperpants · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

You never seen those ladies craft hammers before?! They are all over the place in the craft sections of stores. They also pop up all over the place during Christmas.

u/Roguewolfe · 2 pointsr/ar15

Looks good, sir. I did the same thing with a google doc for my 300BLK build.

I really like those sights, I have the exact same ones with the HK style front on my Windham SRC.

If you don't already have a hammer, you'll want to get a non-metal one to use with the punches. I got this one, good price and works well.

u/Throwaway_Derps · 1 pointr/funny
u/foodsnobiety · 1 pointr/italy

Esistono quelli ufficiali Sony, hanno lo stesso interruttore di quelli di serie, sono stereo, in-ear e la qualità audio dovrebbe essere qualitativamente migliore

u/Mottaman · 1 pointr/PS4 these? They probably sold like crap and were pulled from the market

u/nitsujenosam · 1 pointr/woodworking

In most of my work, I use this:

However, if I am doing something like a bed or large table with long, wide, and deep mortises (e.g. 4-6” long, 1/2-3/4” wide, 1.5-2” deep, times 8), I will switch to a larger wooden joiners mallet. My wrist thanks me the next day.

u/Titus142 · 1 pointr/everymanshouldhave

Eswing hammer or nothing. This is the only hammer you need for the rest of your life.

u/RyanNichols121 · 1 pointr/Tools

I recommend you go with the iFixit 54 Driver Kit its $35 dollars on amazon and will open up almost every you will need in the electronic department, and I would go for something more like Ryobi HP44L for you electric screwdriver, the Flipout you had post does seem too comfortable to use if you plan to do a lot with it. The ryobi and a 68 piece driver set on amazon is only $54 between that kit and the iFixit kit (which is the kit that your Vastar kit is copying) you should be about to do anything for common stuff around your apartment to all the electronic work you could think of. iFixit Ryobi Driver Ryobi Set

I just posted my "Basic Tool Kit" but I don't think you really need all that for what you want to do, pick up these key item as you get extra money or as you can to up grade what you have, Channellock Pliers Set, Estwing Hammer, Wera Screw Set, Milwaukee Tape Measure, and Milwaukee Utilty Knife. With all of this I can't think of anything that could slow you down in an apartment setting.

EDIT: grammar and Format

u/Circle_in_a_Spiral · 1 pointr/camping

I've had one of these for decades. Pretty much indestructible.

u/zorro_usa84 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Thank you for the suggestion, u/munscza. Is this hammer ( a good fit to knock the tire or an over kill?

u/GoofBoy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

u/dustloop · 1 pointr/Rainbow6

You had a look at the official Sony ones? I heard decent things about them;

I would love to try and pair but the in-ear ones never stay in my ears so I can never use em

u/honeydothis · 1 pointr/DIY

Miter Box (Find one that allows you to cut the 30 degree angle pictured in the guide)

Sanding Block



Boom! Now get to it!

u/recessionbeard · 1 pointr/Frugal

I was thinking of something like this

u/Mindless_Following · 1 pointr/ZombieSurvivalTactics

Something that would be better at destroying brains. Baseball bats are too blunt force and need to crush skulls - requiring multiple hits per zombie. I want something that will pierce and destroy brains with single hits if possible.

I would start with a rock hammer because I have one on hand and it is light and compact enough that I can carry a spare if one gets stuck in a skull.

A rock pick would be on my scavenge list because it has a little more reach and can also serve extra functions: pry bar, digging, push off/hold back.

Both of those tools happen to be widely available near me. If they weren't, I'd start with claw hammers. A hardware store would probably have a FuBar, I would have Halligan tools on my scavenge list.

Any melee weapon I would add grip tape and have a backup.

I disagree with WindowShoppingMyLife, reach IS important. You're in trouble if zombies start grabbing you, so being able to kill zombies 24" before they can grab you (25" rock pick) is superior to being able to kill zombies 10" before they can grab you (12" hammer), especially if there is more than one zombie.

u/TheLegendOf1900 · 1 pointr/GentlyWeepsPlayers

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:

u/Revenge_of_the_User · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

you should get yourself a tibone. Like a $300 hammer but they feel like feathers and hit like lightning. Plus lifetime warranty on the removeable head. Might be more to it, but i cant remember.

Anyway, you'd be putting up houses so fast, the housing market would crash.

Canadian Amazon link to the interested.

It's matching the ultimate tool with the ultimate skill.

u/944tim · 1 pointr/Skookum

my wifes favorite tool. She was pissed when she lost hers from her first apartment. After hearing her comment about it, I got her a new one.

ya know those crappy catalogues you get in the mail? at least half of them have this thing in them.







u/theangriestbird · 1 pointr/Stretched

What size are your lobes? Do you have the same issue with circumaural headphones? I'm at 10mm and I don't generally have an issue with around the ear headsets. You could try something like this?

u/ObsidianOne · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/termanader · 1 pointr/Tools
u/eoghan12345 · 1 pointr/PS4

Looking for earbuds for using on my phone and for the ps4 narrowed it down to a few all help appreciated. one option another option
Please feel free to recommend others or just help me pick between the two.

u/AllDepressedChips · 1 pointr/videos

I'm a carpenter by trade and my hammer is so much my baby that I have one hanging from my belt and one in the truck.

The reason I bought a Titanium hammer is because every time I'd have to pry forms off of the concrete I'd snap my hammer in half. I bought this bad girl in hopes that it wouldn't break, it still hasn't and you're in luck, they're about half the price they were when I bought mine 4 years ago.

u/gwhunter280 · 1 pointr/ar15

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.

Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

u/vallisofneptune · 1 pointr/Carpentry

id go for the 14-16 ounce stiletto. if you wanna stay around that price point. the tb15 is the single best hammer on this earth it does everything you need and more.

u/WTFisFTWbackwards · 1 pointr/Damnthatsinteresting
u/libcrypto · 1 pointr/sounddesign

One technique tends to catch and release the sound. The other technique tends to crush it.

u/Tools4Tyler · 1 pointr/albino

Tools to buy today

Knipex 8701250 10-Inch Cobra Pliers

[Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce] (

[Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece] ( you'll carry the small one in your pouch, you'll keep the other 2 in your toolbox. You'll learn to love prybars on this job.

u/WhoPutDatPlanetThere · 1 pointr/woodworking

Hi I'm searching for a hammer/mallet type instrument of destruction...that isn't all that destructive. I saw these Japanese chisel hammers people were apparently also using on planes and some dual sided hammers with a soft and a harder side which made me wonder if there was one that would work on both wood and metal without damaging either one. Specifically I hope to use it to adjust a wooden plane requiring me to hit both metal and wood. I'm trying not to spend a lot of money to start out with so I want to avoid things that go into the realm of luxury tools.

cheaper dual sided hammer without replaceable ends

dual sided hammer with replaceable ends and higher price

japanese steel hammer (flat/domed ends)

u/tausciam · 1 pointr/ar15

Yep Here it is on Amazon and you can see five different people talking about how they used it on their AR and it worked great.

On other things, maybe....NOT on this pin. This pin is the granddaddy of shit pins

u/shikkie · 1 pointr/CZFirearms

I used these long roll pin punches:


and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.


and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)






u/iBody · 0 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Someone familiar with rust might give it a nice wack with the pointed side of a chipping hammer.

If the hammer goes through, or deep into the rusted area they are within their right to fail it.

u/BLSully · 0 pointsr/ar15

Assuming you have a table with a reasonably thin edge:

  1. clamp on vise
  2. basic pin punch set
  3. Hammer
  4. Flat blade screw driver
  5. I used a .025 feeler gauge to help me assemble the front takedown pin. Worked first try. Much easier than messing around with a razor knife.

    Last week I built my first AR on my computer desk in my bedroom. That said, I /did/ buy a complete upper, so I only had to build the lower and assemble the buffer tube (technically need to torque the castle nut, but if you stake it, it's not gonna come off, so unless you are assembling your barrel to your upper receiver or don't have much innate sense of rough torquing, I'd count the torque wrench as an optional tool)
u/jamFRIDGE · -1 pointsr/guns

That' a little much to pay for a hammer

u/OldRemington · -1 pointsr/guns

I have the same feeling about this. People use them as a deadly weapon from time to time, and I'm scared that they aren't black. We should make a law to make us not scared, huh? What about our constitutional right to feel safe!

Sarcasm aside, I'm so ashamed of gunnit for making this the highest rated comment in the thread.

  • Emotional non-sense

  • Referring to an AR as a "deadly weapon"

    Congrats animalbite's upvoters, you suck as people