Best hardware plugs according to redditors

We found 26 Reddit comments discussing the best hardware plugs. We ranked the 20 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Hardware Plugs:

u/APiousCultist · 11 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

You just walk in and someone has plugged in one of these.

u/bohrsatom · 8 pointsr/bikepacking

The smallest hook-up cable I'm aware of comprises of a short section of cable and a single plug: Amazon sell one, which I've used myself on several trips. It does the job, but be aware you can't use it during wet weather as the cable won't be long enough to reach into your tent.

u/Mukor · 6 pointsr/Guitar

A guy I was in a band with a few years ago got us each one of these breakers ‘just in case’. I’d stopped using it out of laziness, while there’s only one standard (240) in the UK your little tale just convinced me to put it back in my gigging bag.

u/Pink7172 · 3 pointsr/Plumbing

Something like this so it could be used later if need be.

u/_Guinness · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have the same cabinet. The backing has little holes in it. You use these little pushpin snap connectors. Each component has a little hole that lines up with the backing holes so you can pin them in.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472745030&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+pins

u/Calmiche · 3 pointsr/cableporn

I'm not sure what we're asking here.

You've got a "structured media panel" in the wall. I'm not sure what brand, but not Leviton, which is what I mostly install.

The holes in the back are for mounting stuff inside the box. A lot of times I'll just use zip ties, but a lot of components and blocks are designed to fit that spacing. Take a look at a coax block:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51G5eoEk8nL.jpg

Or here's a network switch that can mount into those holes:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71uZRsRV5VL._SL1500_.jpg

See the black prongs on the back? They snap into those holes in your panel.

In fact, you can buy just the plugs if you want and hang anything on them:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/

u/brimstn · 3 pointsr/cableporn

The modem and router are held in by one of these:

Leviton 47612-UBK Universal Shelf

These have a standoff/negative space behind them so thats where all the power wires for everything are coiled up. Once you have one of these, you can get some 3/4"x1/16" aluminum bar from Lowes/HD and cut it to length and transfer the spacing for the pushpin holes to it from one of the Leviton shelfs. Drill those out and put some of these in there:

Leviton Push-Lock Pins

I painted mine with white appliance enamel. You can put those wherever you need them and use some velcro cable wraps around both sides of them to secure the devices to the enclosure.

It looks like Leviton actually makes a version of these now:

Leviton Universal Bracket

...but for $23/pr you can do better/stronger if you go the thin aluminum bar route and make about 6/8 of them for about $10, including the Leviton push lock pins.

u/outspoken_ringer · 2 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HAKJKZK4EC0XSH0KE18M

It uses those little black stand off things. You insert it into the hole and then push down on the top and it locks down. If you by Leviton switches/patch panels, they usually come included with it (look at the Leviton switch I linked above, it's attached to the four ends of the switch). And for mounting gear in it that's not made by Leviton, they have special brackets that just hold a device in place and mount using Velcro straps. But save money and just mount it yourself using double sided tape/velcro straps etc...

Here is their universal bracket to mount non-leviton hardware:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-UBK-Universal-Bracket-Structured/dp/B0018DKWGA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YRPJ81ADVX50J2PK7EAD

Here's another:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-DBK-Plastic-Bracket-White/dp/B0007SN5E8/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=66BAHF93TW6PX8GR97RV

u/arizona-lad · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If so, it will be an easy fix. You'd remove the floor tile, and expose the drain. Here is a stopper that fits inside the pipe, leaving nothing exposed to step on:

https://www.amazon.com/Inside-of-Pipe-Gripper-Plug/dp/B00IG3W8SK

Just want to point out that you likely have a partial plug in your sanitary line, which is causing the water to come up because it cannot drain fast enough.

u/Laimface · 2 pointsr/MotoUK

Motul is a brilliant oil.

As for spark plugs, always get the NGK specific to your bike and make sure its at the correct gap with a gap tool.

u/Titfingers · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Why not just plug a normal light into something like this?

u/TheGreenEngineer · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

or perhaps better yet, a rubber or silicone plug. it'd just be a tad easier to install, and it'd be removable. And with such a set, you'd be ready to go for future projects...


edit: this would also make a BOSS homemade glycerin cooling chamber. same design, but use a grommet in both the holes with equal inner diameter, put some stainless or glass tubing through, and have this connect to a bottom chamber with your downstem/bowl. this could be made from many items sourcable at your local thrift store. I've only seen glycerin chambers, though, not built or even owned one, so I can't be too much more specific. just a thought - seems like an interesting idea.

u/Neurorational · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You mean the threads in the pipe are bad? Easiest thing to do is get an expanding rubber plug, like so and so:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zurn-4-in-Cleanout-Plug-LC-4P/205974585

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8IWVE/ref=asc_df_B000R8IWVE5249393

In the meantime you can just pour hot wax over the edge to seal it, or pack it with putty.

It looks kind of wet up to the walls there, you could have rotten wood.

u/NewtonnotweN · 1 pointr/DIY

Could the below item help?

Bulk Hardware BH03654 Modesty Block Wood & Furniture Jointing Connector- White, Pack of 50 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019H1YAIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-nFYDbAP82G6A

u/HangryPixies · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You want self vulcanizing, I’ve had good experience with these. The rubber cement you are referring to is vulcanizing cement. You do not need it with these.

Used to use these in the shop until we found out they are not permitted by law - something something lawsuit. Never had a problem.

I Keep a strip of these, side cutters, and inexpensive install tool in each of my cars. Never had to use it on my stuff, but have bailed several friends and strangers out.

Box of these have been my garage and are still usable/haven’t dried out 5 years later.

You can double these up if you’re really in a pinch. Done sidewalls too, super sketchy but whatever it takes to get home.

50 X-TRA PLUGS SEALS 100% SELF VULCANIZING TUBELESS TIRE REPAIR PLUG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBJT786/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N06WCb8MTGQCV

u/ailee43 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

by code cleanouts have to be 4 inches above the ground.

Thats said, a lot of people cut them off. What I did to maintain code was to cut them off at ground level, put in a female hub on

https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-PVC-DWV-Hub-x-FIPT-Female-Adapter-C4803HD4/100677997

then installed a countersunk cleanout plug:

https://www.amazon.com/Canplas-193064-Flush-Cleanout-4-Inch/dp/B00PCSKSRU

I did however, keep the 4 inch risers, and put a male threaded adapter on the ground-side end of them, so if code inspectors ever come out to check i can put the code-appropriate risers on.

u/bobroberts1954 · 1 pointr/Cartalk
u/distantreplay · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

First thing you'll want to do is test the tile shower pan for integrity. To do that you'll need a 2 inch rubber test ball plug or a 2 inch inside pipe expanding test plug. Examples:
https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-Corporation-T31002-Economy/dp/B000DZGLN2
https://www.amazon.com/Cherne-270024-Test-Ball-2-Inch-Plug/dp/B000VYNU7A
You'll use those to plug the shower drain completely water tight and then fill to the top of the shower curb. Let is sit like that for 24 hours. Check underneath for visible drips and wet spots. The water level should not drop. If it does, even if you don't see leaks, you almost certainly have one. If so there's nothing for it but to break out the tile and start over. Look on the John Bridge forums or the Tile Council of North America for a thorough run down on the correct way for tile shower pans to be constructed.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Non-mobile: this

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/ADDeviant · 1 pointr/Archery

Those look great. I hadn't seen them before. You shoot carbons?

I have tried a dozen things, but actually settled on using 1/2" PEX plugs, slipped over my woodies. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-LFP-580-2-Inch-Low-Lead-Brass/dp/B00529BAN0

u/canada_dry99 · 1 pointr/cableporn

Hi I have a similar network enclosure box - how do you mount the cable box/switches/router?

I tried using screws through the holes but they weren’t secure enough to mount things and one even went thru the single layer of drywall I have on the other side.

I googled some Leviton push-pin locks for their brand of enclosures, and people using L brackets

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T07MQVFHHKY4KCJ98NWP

u/esteel20 · 1 pointr/woodworking

It's got charm to it. I Like it. Just an FYI to you,OP. You can buy plugs to cover up those pocket holes in case you run into an unavoidable situation where they have to be visible.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-P-PNT-Paint-Grade-Plugs/dp/B000GHLZ1K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pocket+hole+plugs&qid=1554726944&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/onepotatotwotomato · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You can get size-adjusting plugs for cleanouts that aren't threaded or are otherwise damaged, like this. It's a little lumpy for placement in the middle of the floor, but will certainly seal.

Also, if you seal that hole and then experience problems in the shower upstairs, you definitely have a vent issue.