I think EA has now fallen into one of the most common pitfalls of F2P games: They're targeting whales. People for whom spending $1000 on anything means so little to them that they don't care. Management looks at their sales numbers, sees that they do make a lot of money off the expensive stuff, and keep making more expensive stuff.

Problem is, it's a very short term mindset. When the regulars see how impossible it is to keep up, they leave until the only people left are the whales, and when the whales have nobody to brag to or play with, they'll eventually leave too. The fewer people that are playing, the less attention the game gets, the harder it is to replace players who quit.

With this game specifically, that scenario could be very bad for EA because Disney is licensing out the Star Wars brand for both profit and publicity. If it's generating negative attention or being used for for games that are being ignored, EA risks losing it when their contract is up for renewal.

Vote with your wallets. See a F2P game that has abusive pricing practices? Go play something else. It's not really much different than those insanely priced HDMI cables. The people who do buy are never going to be talked out of it.

I'm going to take this in the opposite direction.

ALWAYS buy a cheap HDMI cable. They work just as well as the $200 Monster cables.

Edit: I cringed.

You should have bought a better HDMI cable.

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*

Hey all, I made a post last week wherein I said I would elaborate on my gaming setup, so here it is. Disclaimer: This is by far not the most practical or pretty setup, but it works for us and we improve on it when we can.


This TV is normally mounted to the wall of my friend’s bedroom. Luckily the mount allows for the TV to be unhooked fairly easily, and we place it on the dining room table on top of a towel so that it won’t scratch the table. We also wedge some books under it to keep it balanced. The TV is connected to the Laptop with an HDMI cable and a USB-C adapter


The TV is set up as an additional display orientated vertically towards the DM. We drag the window of the photoshop file on that display and keep the workstation part on the first screen, so the DM can can keep info about the map hidden. Last session our DM had traps hidden on a different layer, so when we sprung them he would unhide them and reveal a pit trap or a plume of fire. We also keep a layer of black with a layer mask on areas of the dungeon we haven't explored yet, that way the DM can erase away and reveal those sections to us. Sometimes he will keep the opacity on 50% to mimic dim light or use grey for a thick fog.


We also place a sheet of clear plastic to cover the TV to protect it from our miniatures. The DM screen holds index cards with characters’ names and AC on them which we use for initiative.


If you have a question then just reply to this comment. I will try to answer as many as I can.

$1000, that's cute. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Be careful with terminology. You don't need a converter. You need a displayport to HDMI cable. No adapter or anything. They might use the word adapter in the description for the cable, but a converter is a different thing and usually used to go from HDMI out to DisplayPort in.

​

Something like this should be fine.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&qid=1564670599&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Diamond edition

wait only $1000? please that is peasant change

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You mean this isn't a good buy??

One of these bad boys

Not just Brick & Mortar.

ha. You buy gold plated?!
The real quality comes from [diamond](http://www.AudioQuest.com/ Diamond 16m (52.49 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVLZzbM83Z16H)

Pssh...that's still small time. Those guys need to get on AudioQuest's level: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

100 euro power cable? seems legit

at least its not a 1000 dollar HDMI cable

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

It's got nothing on this

You mean the Diamond HDMI cable that I paid nearly $1,500 for is almost exactly the same as one I could pick up for $5???

I can't believe people would just go on the internet and deceive others in order to sell their overpriced product! /s

Joking aside, I feel bad for people who don't know this and spend any more than $10 on an HDMI cable.

A link for the lazy.

I'm glad I had an extra $13,500 laying around for the 16m one. And silly me had the side with the down arrow connected to my monitor. Everything started working once I switched both ends.

Might has well just punch your TV, rather than insult it with such low quality cables. If you aren't using THESE, than you don't deserve to use a TV!

Shit, even $50 cables are too risky for me. That's why I get the AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable.

The reviews are solid gold

Monster cables are rookies with their $100 cables. I think you mean audioquest, makers of the $1500 HDMI cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

unless you buy this badboy

Unless it was this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT2A2M?pc_redir=1406538610&robot_redir=1

dont forget this

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2FJF1RRE0QUS4&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable&qid=1558727011&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+hd%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

Wouldnt wanna sacrifice any quality..

Maybe a braided mat of these?

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Well, we got the diamond half down.

35€ sind übrigens nix:

https://www.amazon.de/audioquest-chocolate-HDMI-Kabel-Länge/dp/B0034HSVXY

https://www.amazon.de/Audioquest-Diamond-HDMI-Kabel-Meter/dp/B003CT2A6I

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

There is such a thing as "zero" latency, but only with AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cable, found here. (Technically, it has negative latency since it uses time warping technology).

It is a bit pricier than your average cable, but it comes with free shipping.

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

I've always liked this product.

That HDMI cable is shit. Get this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/

You can get 4D with this cable.

Topically relevant. Check the reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Make sure it is one of the very high quality ones.
Like this

The 0's are OK, but after many copies, some of the 1's may start losing fidelity, so they become 0.9, then 0.8 and so on. Past a certain point the playback software will not be able to discern that from a 0, and will have to interpolate from neighboring pixels. The interpolation process will lower the resolution so the original 1080p will start looking like 720p.

You can keep the bits fresh by using ethernet cable from reputable manufactures such as Denon.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AKDL1-Dedicated-/dp/B000I1X6PM

Unfortunately they stopped making it so our videos are doomed to lose their 1's eventually.

But you can compensate for that by playing back the videos over a high-quality HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

My god, $7,000? I could buy five HDMI cables for that!

When you're feeling the inevitable buyer's remorse, just remind the people laughing at you that it was endorsed by Sylvester Stallone. Probably won't help, but worth a try.

I prefer the $2,694.75 one...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top you mean this one? I hope it raises my children too, for that price!

this one cost 13,000

This is the cable you want to get to replace it.

Is this a good deal? AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable - $1,094.75

But please, continue with this type of reviews.

> Price "cheaper than a cable"

That's not too dificult

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

Fuggin pleb, you can't handle my HDMI cable.

Nah you've gotta go Diamond! https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495904263&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+hdmi

For the Nexus 4, we use a SlimPort cable to connect to any 1080p HDMI panel:

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Mouse and keyboard are connected via bluetooth. USB OTG would be nicer, but the N4 doesn't support that standard.

Please note that the above description is an internal developer setup. The final product that we ship may end up looking different, so I wouldn't go spending $$ on peripherals at this time.

-Alex Chiang
engineering manager, ubuntu for android

That's what I say. These non-grilling fuckboys don't know. You can buy a grill like that for $600-700 and you can also buy one that looks like this for $2000.

You can probably even get the exact same one from 2 different retailers.

this is a $14,000 hdmi cable. There's a sucker born every minute

> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable

Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.

This 1000x over.

I could never truly appreciate the pimples on the crack whore's ass in my favorite porn until I bought a set of these

Don't cheap out on HDMI cables, get those diamond grade cable from amazon.

> just because you're paying more for it doesn't mean it's better

Are you saying this cable isn't worth it?

They sell a 16m one too...

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

I wouldn't take amazon's prices as the market prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

> like this one

What the actual fuck? I mean, it doesn't even have Solid HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION

YUV420 is the same as RGB, just with the color compressed down to 1080p. Our eyes are less sensitive to color information than they are to luminance, so the difference is typically imperceptible. And the only difference would be a very light color bleed around the edges.

If you see a significant difference in the way colors display, then that's your TV's settings, not the ps4.

That flashing means your HDMI cable doesn't have enough bandwidth for 4K60 in RGB and is dropping the signal. If you buy a premium certified cable (the Pro's included cable is not certified) it should solve that. The cheapest one on the market is from Monoprice:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TowlzbT6Q1H99

But any cable with that specific QR code (to prove certification) will work.

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

DO NOT buy this rig....

...unless you make sure you have the right HDMI cables to prevent digital signal degradation for your video output!!!!

How about a $1,500 one?

>* Audioquest :)

Idk, I traded my HD800s for this and audio has never been clearer on my 720p Insignia

You can use that gift card to ALMOST purchase a suitable HDMI cable.

Sorry, but you're going to have to expand your budget

You mean 13449.75?

£90 is nothing

What about $13,500

13K for a cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

Definitely no need for adapters. There are several Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cables at various lengths. I’ve been using two of these for years without issue.

Mini DP to HDMI via this cable.

Das hier tuts genauso, und kostet nur 6,99€.

Get away from me, you filthy casual.

Make sure you blast your MIDIs through a high quality HDMI cable like this or this. Otherwise, they will just sound like shit and you also don't want people to think you're poor.

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=13979917011&ie=UTF8&qid=1497510686&sr=8-1

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

From the compared $1k HDMI cable.

I think that is an out of stock price... This obscene thing is real🙁

Edit: Hold the phone! That price is now a bargain.

Audio quest indeed.

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

This one costs twice as much:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1

[but hdmi is rlly expensive] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8)

You cannot run 720p (or 1080p) through a composite signal. You need a component cable (red,blue,green w/red & white audio):

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-360-Component-HD-Cable/dp/B000B6MLPU

Unfortunately it appears your television doesn't have component inputs.

You could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6 but at this point you're approaching the cost of a more recent secondhand 360 with hdmi.

It may be a bad DisplayPort cable. When it comes to DP, cable quality matters. Even the ones included with such high end monitors are questionable - if all else fails, I'd suggest buying a new one, this one is highly revered.

It is http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG ? In stock July 25, 2013.

Not to one up you, but there's this.

Here are my favorites http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458584294&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hdmi+audioquest+diamond&dpPl=1&dpID=41cGG7FbEwL&ref=plSrch

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

Amazon has 25ft HDMI 2.0b cables for $13.09 or if you don't care about the cable being a lot bulkier you can get a CL3 rated 2.0b cable for $10.99

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

What, you don't want to pay $13k for an HDMI cable?!

How about the $14,000 hdmi cord. Don't forget to read the reviews. My favorite: a reviewer gave it 1 star because "it doesn't work with my VCR."

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

Amazon Basics do huge HDMI cables and they work great.
Standard
Braided
Both under $10.
I run a Pro with 4K HDR with one of these.

I also couldn't get the recommended HDMI extension cables to work. What ended up working for me was an HDMI repeater with a standard 10 foot Amazon HDMI cable.

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

:D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

Here's the cable for it.

Here is what I found on Amazon. The reviews are hilarious too.

You'll need one of these to protect against viruses.

obligatory comedy cable reviews

Nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope.

EDIT: And actually, I like this one a lot more. ;)

You'd be surprised what people pay for HDMI cables

"fat ps3 circa 2004"

You mean 2006.

Sony actually sells their own component-to-AV cable (you sure your PS3 didn't come with RCA cables instead of component?) and it's rated to go all the way up to 1080i so you can use Component for HD.


Have a read: http://us.playstation.com/ps3/accessories/component-av-cable-ps3.html


Then use something like this to convert Component to HDMI if your TV doesn't have Component. It's finicky but it should work.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6


EDIT:I meant component-to-AV not component-to-HDMI. Also added info if TV doesnt have component connectors (which all should unless it's a PC monitor).

As others have pointed out you will need a Display Port, but i suggest you get this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=twister_B01LY6Y25W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not all display ports on amazon support 144hz, this is the cable i got and im running 2 144hz monitors with them.

This list can be used to find certified DisplayPort cables. This Accell DisplayPort cable seems to be commonly recommended, but I'm in NZ so I wound up going with another option here.

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).

The answer is premium CERTIFIED cables. The ones with the QR code on the packaging. If they dont have the QR code then they arent certified no matter what the package says. I had the same issue and this fixed it. All cable are not created equal. even the exact brand model vary between cables. Premium certified are actually pulled and tested for specifically this.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747255&sr=8-2&keywords=HDMI+premium+certified

You need to look for a HDMI Premium certified cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497540721&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+premium+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41UMBnDu5kL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IL3TZSQ&pd_rd_r=DGEKYJ4BC9NDJTWP1B7B&pd_rd_w=W6dlo&pd_rd_wg=Kiyho&psc=1&refRID=DGEKYJ4BC9NDJTWP1B7B

$13,500*

The questions section on Amazon for it are pretty great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA1259NXSAFFBVV7HPBD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9K87MXWTXYRJKYT9Y0PA

At least you get free shipping.

Do the displayport to HDMI. I believe it carries sound that way.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Just get a DisplayPort --> HDMI cable for your monitor so the HDMI port is free for the Rift.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/

I bought this and it works perfectly fine for me.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI 2.0 Extension Cable - 10 Feet

MSI Z170A, i5 6600k, RX 480 8GB.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

My guess is you bought one of those cheap unshielded ones. You should really invest in one more like this.

Dude don't cheap out on your HDMI cables, get this one

/s

obviously you haven't had the same experience as these Amazon Reviewers

HA Haha Hahaha HAAAAHAHAHAHA... Gold?

Get that pussy-ass pleb shit outta here! We got diamonds now, bitch.

Oddly enough, you can plug a Mini DisplayPort cable into the Thunderbolt port and it will work (they both use the same port).

I use this cable with my air's thunderbolt port to connect to my monitor. Cheap and works great. They also make Mini DisplayPort to DVI if your monitor doesn't have HDMI. Just search amazon or monoprice for a cheap one.

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

What matters most is that the cable is VESA certified. Without this certification, you have no way of knowing if 144hz at 1440p will work. Your cable may not work at higher refresh rates.

Here is one that's certified.

List of all VESA certified cables

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

Yes. It's MicroUSB and the SlimPort adapter is MicroUSB to HDMI

This. That particular item is currently marked as unavailable, but many apparently identical ones seem to be out there.

Worked perfectly whenever I've used it, although some apps won't display over an HDMI interface. Pretty sure that's a limitation of the app rather than the device, though.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_3/154-4758909-6057755?ie=UTF8&qid=1484137065&sr=8-3&keywords=AudioQuest+diamond#customerReviews

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

If I'm ever rich I'll buy this just because fuck it

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4/

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

I'm sorry, but looking at the reviews of this HDMI cable it does seem that the more expensive cables are A LOT better.

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

oh so you're rich enough to own a PC nice enough to run fallout 4 and an xbox one but you can't afford anything else...
50 feet of hdmi costs 25bucks man, what are you on about?

http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY

$27 for 50 foot hdmi cable. may not be the prettiest way to hook up distant tv but it works.

personally i just have an old ass fuck pile of crap dell from 2005 hooked up to my tv for when i want to watch some movies or youtube etc

Are you using the displayport cable that came with the monitor?

I've been having flickering issues with my LG 34UC88 (not as severe as yours) with an RX 480 and RX Vega. I've read up that the DP cable can cause issues similar to ours. I ordered a VESA certified cable from Amazon (URL below) that should be delivered tomorrow and hopefully that resolves my issue. Read the reviews and see if the issues others have seen are similar to yours.

Accell B142C-007B UltraAV DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable

I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.

Must buy accessories:

6ft USB 3.0 extender

6ft HDMI Extender

I went for 6ft because I heard people had issues with picture quality degrading at 10ft+

Wall Charger for 4 AA's

8 rechargeable AA's

This HDMI extender works with the 980ti - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2

I'm using it right now.

The USB extender is another story, still trying to find one that shows up as USB3 and not USB2

I guess I shouldn't have let my mind go in that direction. There is also this HDMI cable on amazon priced to sell at $13,499.75 to consider: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472771011&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

Yes, and far more expensive ones as well

Thats just an example.

That's amateur stuff.

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

The reviews are just how one might predict, lampooning:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

First, find the right cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ

Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.

I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV

Any cable thats rated to the hdmi spec that is needed to push whatever resolution/refresh rate you desire. Big huge 'sheilded' HDMI cables are a con.

Using digital signals rather than analogue (think VGA), means the signal can take far more interference before it'll stop working. Generally speaking, only long runs (10m or so) should ever suffer from interference in 'normal' sized cables.

If you want to run 4k/60hz. HDMI 2.0 is what youre after.

This little crappy looking amazon cable will work as well as a £50 'super' cable.

Anywhere that sells TV or computer cables will have HDMI. You can even find them in many drug stores (very limited selection, but still). Here's one on Amazon. You'll probably want at least that length so you can set the laptop somewhere, but REALLY long HDMI cables can be finicky.

Since you didn't tell us which exact MicroCenter location you've got, I am not able to maybe suggest a few more parts to get from them locally. Some parts also may be out of stock.

But I decided to go a bunch lower in terms of budget compared to /u/Lolmuhhhhhhh 's great suggestion.

CS:GO / LoL are not demanding games at all and even this system is "overkill" for it, but hey. It's a very good system.

---

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
I'll also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center (combo)
Motherboard | MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $30.00 @ Micro Center (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $30.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $65.98 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $99.99 @ Micro Center
Cable| HDMI to HDMI (10 feet)| $6.50 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Adesso EasyTouch135 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $24.91 @ Amazon
Mouse | SteelSeries Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse | $32.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | No rebates!
| Total | $863.20
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

• What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.
  
  
• What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ◄ Important!
  
• What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
  
• What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
  
• CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
  
• GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
  
• How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ◄ Important!
  
• What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
  
• Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
  
• DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
  
• What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  
• Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  
• Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  
• SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
  
• What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ◄ Important!
  
• Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ◄ Important!
  
• Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
  
• What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
  
• What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
  
• Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  
• Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  
• What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
  
• What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
  
• What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02
  
  Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Guides
  

  
  ---
  
  Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
  
  

• How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
  This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
  It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
  I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
  I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
  There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
  
  
• How to install a 115x CPU?
  Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  
• How to install thermal compound?
  The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
  Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
  Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  
• How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
  You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  
• How to set up your SSD & HDD?
  This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
  
• How to use Ninite?
  This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

Am I wrong to assume you want to hook the PS5 to a monitor? Just buy an HDMI to display port chord.

DP to HDMI cables are a thing. Example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here's a 3 ft one that costs more than $1000: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They also have a 52 ft version: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1421703720&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+cable

Only $200? That's a bargain.

Companies will advertise that their HDMI cables produce a "Clearer Picture" and such when that is physically not possible, as the signal is digital and not easily degraded by noise. (Seriously you would probably have to run the thing through a microwave, and even you have more things to worry about, like it catching on fire)

They also charge, $50, $100, and in one hilarious case $10,000 for cables that will fare no better than a $2 cable off monoprice.

The $10k one if you're curious: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Are you insinuating that I may have overspent when I bought my $14000 HDMI cable?

Wow that's cheap! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58XG1WDDEYRX6FKWJW5Z&dpPl=1&dpID=41cGG7FbEwL

Ahem

Here's a $13,499.75 HDMI cable

I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know where you got that idea from, but this 10f extension works perfect for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/

USB 3.0:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In that case, a mini displayport to hdmi adapter will give you the best quality.

Not sure if you're in the US, but this one on Amazon.com for example would get the job done.

You should be good with a mini displayport to hdmi cable.

Here's one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494815653&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi

Free delivery tomorrow if you have Prime (unlikely) or know someone who does. Or stock up with $35 worth of stuff total. The leatherman should get you there.

You cannot feed a mini display port lead through it and bolt an adapter on at the end to hdmi ?


https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Converter-QGeeM-Compliant-Dual-Mode/dp/B07H29J86N


https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Black/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GZMK4SZB02Y5&keywords=amazon+basic+mini+display+port+to+hdmi&qid=1569841549&s=gateway&sprefix=basics+hdmi+to+mini%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

£8 for a HDMI cable isn't bad?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1493510444&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/REALMAX-Premium-Quality-supports-devices/dp/B017FH8KDE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1493510444&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cable

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

This is one I ordered and works well enough to get 4K HDR on my TV.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these 10' cables to extend the link box and have had zero issues. The Amazon basics HDMI is pretty good quality and I make sure to plug the Cable Matters USB 3.0 wire into a 2.0 port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_UqC38H59ci4DL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9KJY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_IaA2Y3O6wb2iK

you might want to check out this new and relatively unknown store

I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=25+hdmi+cable&qid=1567178417&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The amazon basics like these offers the 2.0 HDMI standard at fraction of the cost. This is only 25 feet though.

Don't spend that much money on a HDMI cable

Ninja edit. Used wrong link at first

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

yeah. depending on what video card you're using, you should be able to get audio out over it as well.

you can get a DisplayPort to HMDI cable from Amazon. look for one that does audio, if you need audio out on the TV.

here's an adapter

here's a cable

DP to hdmi. And i have tried all different brands and they all work good. I love amazon basic cables and their stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Alright. Both of your monitors only have HDMI, but your card only has one HDMI port.

So you will need one HDMI to HDMI and one DisplayPort to HDMI.

The video ports you want to use are on the video card, not on the motherboard. Video ports on a motherboard are only using the CPU's built-in GPU, if it has it--this is generally a significantly weaker GPU and not suited for gaming, though it is fine for a secondary monitor and casual web browsing/office PC uses. If you go with a Ryzen 2700x, it doesnt even *have* an integrated gpu, so the ports on the motherboard are totally dead and not used at all.

. The card I linked (and most cards of that performance tier) will have 1 HDMI + 3 or so Displayports, but a HDMI to Displayport cable is dirt cheap, only like $11, so you can plug the HDMI end into your monitor/tablet/whatever and the DVI end into your GPU.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

These two extension cables are what I use to extend my Rift, and they work flawlessly. This is Canadian amazon though so you can prob get them even cheaper on American site or where ever you are from.

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

I use these cables:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE

And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU

Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.

That won't work, this will
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

But in all seriousness yes it will hah.

They only sound terrible because you're not using the right Monster cables.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 best cable on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs

Needed more diamond

Edit: MOAR !!

People use those cheap $400 cables? I guess some people just don't care about real quality.

I highly recommend using this USB cable. It really is the only way to make your charging port last longer.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable only $1,000.00 USD on Amazon.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

Peasants won't know about my glorious HDMI Cable!

Make sure to get this Diamond HDMI cable to get a 144Hz 4K signal!

Luxottica's market behavior clearly has some pretty serious effects on the price of an essential medical device, which you acknowledge.

I would estimate markups far higher than 200-300%, though. The wholesale prices of Luxottica's products look like retail prices for other products with similar supply chains, produced by manufacturers with far less verticality and negotiating power. Lets be realistic: competitively durable and fashionable eyeglasses could realistically retail in the $25-$50 range, sans lenses.

I would encourage you to consider what the loss or destruction of a pair of glasses by a kid who needs them can do to a struggling family's monthly budget, before you conclude that this sort of markup doesn't have fairly enormous negative social effects.

>Do we say that even though high-end clothes/accessories/etc. charge a huge markup that the consumers are being exploited?

Where each individual draws the line will probably differ, but I think most would agree that it certainly can be exploitative. I don't think that one factor is enough to dispositively conclude that an act is or is not exploitative.

Can we get a DIAMOND MICRO-USB for $2000 though? Like these but smaller: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Should of got one of these

Oh I dunno about that

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Read the reviews, you will know what you must do

Yeah. I think this one might actually work http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

OP should try it and let us know

If you want the best, then this is what you want: http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

Well, this one has better reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

The pen needs a diamond HDMI cable matching accessory designed by Sylvester Stallone™. Add skulls, some truck nuts, and maybe a tribal design...bingo bango we double the price.

Also, I'd like the Chaos if it only accepted cartridges.

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

Diamond HDMI cabling to reduce lag.
http://amzn.com/B003CT2A6I

Technically that's a minidp port, but that should work fine. I keep one of these in my bag, personally.

Edit: To clarify, not that specific brand cable, but the same connections.

It's just a different type of port. It is better than HDMI and allows for higher resolutions than 1080p, but it's not used quite as often.

Here is the cord I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380941200&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

You can see it pretty clearly on this page, just below the charge port: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/html/pbPage.PDPS/productID.286866600

I would look to upgrading the AVR as all the video is analog. If you insist on keeping it, a Component to HDMI converter is what you need. Something like this is what you need to stay on the budget friendly side.

You're definitely mixing up some information.

The two different video output cables are the standard composite cables (1 yellow cable, 480i) and the component cables(3 cables green, blue, red, 480p) which are sold separately.

Both composite and component video are analog.

The product description of this certain adapter states that all it does is convert analog into digital.

>the Wii2HDMI converter dynamically switches or converts your analog content to digital HDMI format.

Using the Sewell adapter is basically the same using component cables to output 480p then converting it to HDMI using one of these adapters just with less cables.

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

Guess what?

They do make 50ft HDMI cables.

There's also hdmi splitters on amazon that can be switched using a controller, or physically flipping a switch on it.

EDIT: Amazon smile link! Get your cable and help out charity for the same price.

15 meters of HDMI cable. Not expensive at all.

• $800 ($800) for 1080p 3d projector (I have the older and now discontinued, H7531D model which while 1080P, did not support 3D. The newer model does, and has twice the lamp life of mine)
  http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009486
  
  
• $200 (varies) 120" framed screen - I built mine, pretty simple, used instructions from here: http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen/
  
• $20 ($12) ceiling mount kit from monoprice
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3875
  
• $40 ($35) 50ft hdmi cable from amazon
  http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-In-wall-Installation--supports-version/dp/B004GW25WY
  
• $60 ($100) OEM replacement lamp from ebay (this has gone up a bit since I bought mine, probably due to demand)
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/330885230688
  
  Sorry to hear about the taxes thing, hopefully you can find equivilents of what I have listed here. Let me know if you have any questions!

That's rich. Apparently, there's more: I could buy an awesome TV for the price of this.

vs. this

Fuck you Monster and Audioquest.

These have worked for me:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GW25WY/

AMD cards from that era (7850-3xx) have DisplayPort issues. The cable they sent is also probably crap. Try a certified cable like this one.

This one is good

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

This is probably the wrong subreddit to state this is, but I've been having a great time just doing this on my phone. Plus my Snapdragon S4 Pro is smoother than the Tegra 3 in the Ouya. Admittedly, in the end the price (not including the phone) is similar to Ouya, though.

• Nexus 4
  
  
• SlimPort to HDMI adapter
  
  
• Dualshock 3 controller
  
  
• Sixaxis Controller app
  
  
• NES.emu
  
  I really like the setup. I think it's a big plus to be able to play any game on the Play Store this way (with appropriate touch mapping profiles, if necessary) or sideload any game, like Humble Bundle.
  
  That said, I really think Ouya's heart is in the right place, it would just have to deliver performance closer to what I'd expect from a tv-dedicated console. If it had a Snapdragon 800 SoC, I'd snatch one up in a heartbeat.
  
  Edit: Reading other posts on here, it appears you can sideload .apks to Ouya. I guess my only complaint is the aforementioned SoC.

> Android has audio-out over USB?
> Android has video-out over USB?

Yes.

I bought a ugreen hdmi extension, and an Amazon basics usb 3.0 extension, working perfectly. From Amazon.ca

Edit; links.

UGREEN USB Extension Cable USB 3.0 Extender Cord Type A Male to Female Data Transfer Lead for Playstation, Xbox, Oculus VR, USB Flash Drive, Card Reader, Hard Drive, Keyboard, Printer, Camera (6ft) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00P0ES0YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9XWKAb6QCB1MD

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft, HDMI Male to Female Extender Cord Cable Supports 4K 3D HDR for PS4/PS3, Nintendo Switch, Blu Ray Player, 3D Television, Roku, Boxee, Xbox 360, TV Stick etc (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


I'm running a gigabyte z170 motherboard, and a GTX 1080ti reference card. All 3 sensors + headset are into motherboard, no expansion card needed for me.

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

$700? Get out of here, cheapskate

Or if Ethernet is your thing...

I'm just curious...

These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use them with my lenovo explorer

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.

Grab a $6 Certified Monoprice HDMI cable off amazon if you’re in the states.

Had the same problem, got the cable and the problem hasn’t returned.


Edit: I tried the safe mode thing as well, but it didn’t last long.

[This one](Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 6 Feet | 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OU-3Cb51VMGV0)

High Speed with Ethernet means it’s at least HDMI v1.4.

There’s 4 categories of cable:

• Category 1: Standard
  
• Category 2: High Speed
  
• Category 3: Premium High Speed, 18Gbps and works with HDMI v2.0. Not sure if all distances though, those state the same gusts up to 10ft, and blue jeans specifically state their FE cable is Premium up to 15ft.
  
• Category 4: 48G, works with HDMI v2.1; not yet released.
  
  They are all backwards-compatible.

This is the cable everyone should be using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1

Most HDMI cables SHOULD be able to pass a 4K signal, but many don't. You need CERTIFIED, PREMIUM 4K HDMI cables w/ the gold "HDMI.org" logo($6 on Amazon): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Hi again, I just reset the sound bar and while it did not inherently fix the problem I did stumbled upon a workaround that seems to at least be reliable.

1. play video from Apple TV 4k
   
   
2. the tv displays "No Signal" screen while playing audio out of sound bar
   
   
3. power off sound bar
   
   
4. TV displays passthrough 4k video and plays audio through internal TV speakers
   
   
5. Turn sound bar back on
   
   
6. TV displays 4k video and Atmos / 5.1 etc play out of the sound bar
   
   
   And to answer your question yes - I am using a certified HDMI cable, I am using these:
   
   
   Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most likely an issue with the cable, but installing the driver won't hurt anything.

I use the UNI model and have no issues: https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=uni+ucb-c+to+hdmi&qid=1550504052&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

4k@60 to my TCL 43S405.

I ended up not needing a dock myself. I bought a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse that can switch between 3 devices and got a hdmi cable that has type c on one end and hdmi on the other off of Amazon. All I need to do is plug in one cable and I’m good to go (plus power if I’m low on battery)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075V5JK36?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-MK850-Performance-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B01NAVO5PF

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well

HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using Amazon Basics USB and HDMI extension cables and they work fine for me

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 6ft or 3ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zm59Q7XKhhohl

You probably need higher bandwidth HDMI cables if you're only getting 60 hz at 1080 p. I use these cables for my setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

Don't buy the receiver from Amazon. You need something with a phono input and you should get something with decent room correction which pretty much means you're buying a refurbished Denon.

• Refurbished AVR-X1500H from Accessories4Less ($300)
  
• Roll of Monoprice 14AWG Speaker Wire $25
  
• Sanus speaker stands in black or cherry $80
  
  Then whatever amount of HDMI cables you need should cost you $12 for a two pack. I recommend Monoprice high speed certified.

Club3d CAC-1080 adapter+Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable

The reboots happened to me on the stock firmware 1.1.14.1 I went ahead and updated yesterday to 1.1.17.1 and haven't had one yet. I did get a black screen on the PS4 pro though. There's a video on Youtube where setting the PS4 TV settings to YUV420 fixed the black screen on his Vizio P. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hq9fzRtGCkc

I also read using a certified high speed cable from Monoprice fixed the black screen for some people. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

USB C to HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_KyYCCbN3ZMFGG

Not sure if they removed it, but I found this and it has good reviews

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36

For your PC -> TV, $20

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36

I bought this cable and people in the comments said it works on other phones also someone posted about using the cable for the razer phone thats why I bought it

https://www.amazon.co.uk/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Samsung-Grey/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525274651&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=uni+usb+c+to+hdmi&psc=1

Thanks for this. I wouldn't have even thought to try that. I tried it on my current adapter, and it's still doing the same thing. Also for reference, below are the 2 cables I tried previously which are very similar to the one richwest3 is using. I'm starting to wonder if my V30 that is messed up somehow because surely these cables are not the issue.

Cable 1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H9ZWDJ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB-C to HDMI is the one that I have been using for like 2 months no problem at all

There has been a lot of discussion on this in MacRumors and the Apple Support forums. I had it happen to 2 Mac Minis. Reinstalling Mojave from a CCC Clone did not fix it, leading me to think that Catalina updated some Mac firmware in the HDMI chain. To get 4K /60HZ working again, I got this USB-C to HDMI adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36

This has been rock solid for me, but YMMV. I, and others, have open Apple Support cases on this issue.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491227712&sr=1-14&keywords=hdmi+cable

You need one of these.

How about a $13,500 HDMI cable?

Try to beat this!

That's a cable for peasants. This is the one I recommend.

My HDMI cable supports Full Mega Super HD™.

I see yours and raise 12000.

I'd start with a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/

It gets worse.

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

Why settle for Platinum, when you can get Diamond HDMI Cables?

Hold my beer...

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.

These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&qid=1460783173&ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

Your GTX 1070 should be able to handle extensions, but maybe not a 12' extension. If you can do without 2', I'd try a 10' cable. I've got a GTX 1080 with a 10' Cable Matters HDMI 2.0 cable rigged up to an IKEA Regolit floor lamp base. From there, I connect my HMDs, whether it's an Oculusu Rift, Lenovo Explorer, or Samsung Odyssey. Haven't had any issues.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

I have an eVGA 980 and these 2 HDMI+USB extensions worked fine for me with the headset:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  From what I've seen in the past is that mobos and graphics cards can play a role in compatibility. I think newer cards/mobos will probably have less of a problem. I'm guessing many older hardware did not always adhere to some of the strict standards of USB/HDMI and it usually didn't matter much before with most hardware. But with the bandwidth that the rift+cameras use those standards are really important now and I think hardware vendors are now thoroughly testing and validating these in newer products. That's just my guess anyways.
  
  Edit: for reference my mobo is an Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

How long is the extension?

I had to go through a couple of cables before I found one that worked without issue - I've read other accounts that certain video cards worked well with some cables and not others. Not sure why it would suddenly stop working, short of the cable going bad or something like the power supplied to your video card changed?


These are the cables that worked for me

Note I only use one cable (10ft) not both, they just happen to come in a two pack.

For anyone interested:

Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need the proper cable... HDMI 2.0, but you need at least a version 1.4 cable to support 4k. 2.0 for 4k with HDR

I had the similar issue. I bought a new HDMI 2.0 cable and that fixed the issue. Try a different HDMI. I’m currently using this one from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_..CVDbNH3JDE8

Given the relatively low expense, yeah it'd be worth trying a higher quality cable. HDMI 2.0 isn't hard to find, here you go. :-)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HDMI 2.0 4K ready cables] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) might help

Just that there's no point buying anything expensive. "AmazonBasics" is great because they don't overcharge.

mDP to HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511801974&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi+cable

mDP to DVI: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-ThunderboltTM-Compatible/dp/B00DJCB83O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511802068&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dvi+cable

The T470 has one. But these are cheaper...

There's a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable in the wild that may work for you. The one Belkin makes is about $30 (though the quality is really nice) but there are cheaper options available.

Nothing really. A cable like this or an adapter like this should both work just fine.

Forgot to mention that, any passive Mini Displayport to HDMI cable or adapter will work as the port is Dual Mode.

I carry around one of these with my X230.

The surface has a mini-displayport which you can turn into HDMI with an adapter or cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/

Something like this should work.

I thought you were exagrating with the price, surely they can't be selling them for that much....

Fuck my life

This is why I forced my parents to make an Amazon account. I do hope they kept the receipt.

Here you go:

• AmazonBasics USB 3.1 Type-C to HDMI Adapter - $17
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 3 Feet - $6
  
  The USB-C to HDMI adapter has a female HDMI port, so it won't plug in directly to a PC/monitor, hence the need for a cable with a HDMI male plug at both ends. I use mine with my desktop monitor, which is why I went for only 3 feet.

im sure the one in the box is fine, if not i was guided to this one when i got my 4k tv

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487209157&sr=1-1&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+2.0+Cable

What OP said above. Amazon basics are literally £3.99.

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 0.9m / 3 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AChMzbRHPK3FF

Yes (see below), tested with a TV, both video and audio are transmitted.

Displayport to HDMI Adapter, Benfei Dp(Display Port) Male to Hdmi Female Converter with Audio for Lenovo, Dell, HP, Asus and other brand(Dp to Hdmi):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Displayport-Adapter-Benfei-Display-Converter/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506631957&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi


AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 0.9m / 3 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=twister_B019OVZSUM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased a 7 inch unit with a 'Feelworld' sticker on it for $135 and it works surprisingly well. I also bought some batteries (Sony L series) and a charger as well as a magic arm and a carrying case. I am very pleased with it and the only gripe I have with it is that the power button is more like a standby button. I have to remember to pop the battery out so I don't end up with it being dead.

Here's some links:
Magic arm - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QTIVL82/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Clamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CM5SNY0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196JV89C/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Huge battery (one last all day about) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inexpensive HDMI cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SIJY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smaller batteries and charger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CPYXQ2S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally, the monitor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SV5K9WA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know ow if you have any questions!

I have this sound bar, but the X900F tv, and both Dolby Vision and Atmos work with my AppleTV 4K so your setup should work. I’m using the AmazonBasics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable.

Other than trying different cables, ensure that the cable plugged into the tv is going into a port that supports all features. On the X900F this is HDMI 3, it might be similar on the 950.

Edit: I should mention that I’m also using ARC and pass through on the sound bar (i.e. the same configuration that I believe you’re using).

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

How are you connecting it? My T440s with base graphics runs my ultrawide like a champ with a MDP -> HDMI adapter. I used one of the HDMI adapters and an HDMI cable that specifically advertise compatibility with ultrawide resolutions, but I suspect any newish HDMI cable and adapter would work.

​

FWIW this is the adapter I got and this is the hdmi cable

Both of these work fine with my Samsung Odyssey:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using this for HDMI connection:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR9PR5X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do go down that route you might have to try several different cables to get them to work it seems to be specific to people's Motherboard and GPU. For me, 980ti, this USB 3.0, HDMI and HDMI Repeater worked. Regardless of what you choose definitely pick up a HDMI Repeater or a HDMI to DVI dongle, it seems to be the key factor to get extensions to work for a bunch of peeps.

I have this same tv and I was having the same problem with a 12 ft cord (best I could get was 4K at 30hz)

Got a 10ft cord from Amazon and that fixed the issue this cord

Looks like you won't be going quite as far, but I had a lot of trouble trying to get 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 going about 20-ish feet (a hair over 6 meters) when I upgraded my PC's screen from one that only did 4K@30Hz.

Spoiler: the cheaper option I hesitated on worked the best.

I tried Monoprice active/directional and passive/non-directional cables and would have tried something from Blue Jeans Cable had they carried a long enough HDMI cable that they rated capable of handling the task. The original, several years old cable I had produced nothing but static. The Monoprice cables created green "sparkles" over the image. I almost moved my PC into my office, too, but at the last minute I tried an Amazon Basics cable and it has worked perfectly, even allowing me to turn on HDR10 with no trouble.

Here's the exact cable I bought (copy/pasted from my purchase history):
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jkgzb1FZXZRE

Yup. $12.99 and 25 feet long...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/

I have this cable and it's nice. I know there isn't much to say about an HDMI cable, but this one is pretty tough feeling.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK

i use these on my rift to have my desktop in the office and rift in my garage. as for DP, no clue. i use

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS for the hdmi, i imagine something similar would work for rift s

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506137089&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi%2Bhigh%2Bspeed%2Bcable%2B4k&th=1

Would you be able to recommend a booster. Also I tried with a 4ft cable but after about a month it stopped working any thoughts on why?

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9AjjybTH0JYBQ

My wife let me take over the spare bedroom for my Vive playspace. The fold up bed cost about £300 but is totally worth it :)

The ceiling light will be replaced will a less obtrusive one, I'm just not that good a DIYer to do it myself.

If anyone is looking for extension cables that work, I used these HDMI and USB cables to get from my study across the landing (power point is within the room so didn't need a cable for that):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NORHCE8

Amazon.

Super thick and heavy duty cord as well. It is out of stock right now though

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Display Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_prKnDbQ726E0T

The 6 foot is out of stock but there's 10 feet and a few others if you are ok with the length. The 1080 should have at least 2 Display Port outputs. Use the Display Port to HDMI adapter for your monitor. Keep the direct HDMI connection for the Rift.

Check if you have a port to plug the HDMI cable from the odyssey in to. If you only have 1 HDMI port that's occupied by your monitor, buy this and use it to connect your monitor.

These work fine. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sxin_2?crid=2ODLJ98DXNQUD&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&pd_rd_i=B015OW3M1W&pd_rd_r=1114dfec-e6db-4c42-8a81-23a0fcb0e7e7&pd_rd_w=dLBfx&pd_rd_wg=9rXYU&pf_rd_p=2f202bc2-a141-4742-bd82-9252d5485b34&pf_rd_r=4RE88PM8BBHF74W81F6Y&qid=1557344410&s=electronics&sprefix=dis%2Celectronics%2C134

I see what your saying! Yea, they do make HDMI to Display Port cables. Here's an Amazon Basics cable. They are usually pretty reliable and on the cheaper side. I would get a cable over an adapter just because that is one less "extra" thing that could have issues down the road.

You can get DP to HDMI cables. One like this is all you would need to get that second monitor up and running.

> do need a wireless network adapter.

Choosing a wireless adapter with Linux that functions well entirely relies on driver support for the wireless chipset more than the brand or model on the box.

Atheros chipset based wireless adapters are more often than not the best option available. Locating one can be challenging but they are available. the most modern atheros wireless driver for Linux is the ath10k Linux driver. Researching this module should reveal many options.

The wireless adapters available may not all be new but there are options for wireless cards that use that driver specifically

>Do I need amd hardware?

No

>Would intel be the way to go?

That has been mine and many others experience.

As mentioned previously Ryzen cpu's having severe hardware faults that can only be fixed by replacing the cpu.

This more recent issue with Ryzen based motherboards not yet being fully supported also solidifies Intel as the best available choice between brands.

Someone I helped this past weekend couldn't get thermal management drivers for his Ryzen motherboard to function properly. While some of the challenges are entirely as a result of experience anyone with similar amounts of experience could expeirence similar results from new amd based pc hardware.


>Forgive me for my lack of understanding, but why two harddrives? What does the sata SSD drive do?

SSD hard disks use NAND flash memory instead of spinning mechanical platters to store data and ssd's as a result are quite a bit faster with data throughout and responsiveness. Latency response times are significantly lower for SSD's to respond to data read and write requests however the total available storage space is also significantly lower as a result.

With the reduced storage space having a second mechanical disk with good performance and storage space is still beneficial.

Typically if your careful about where you install software having a 512 GB ssd you should never fill it to capacity running an OS install.

>Does the motherboard support an extra harddrive?

Yes absolutely. That motherboard has support for several hard disks and dual M.2 SSD drive expansion slots. M.2 SSD disks are the newest SSD form factor and the data transfer speeds they can offer are astounding however the cost per gigabyte is also significantly more.

>I'd like to hook up some sort of webcam and microphone. Do you have any thoughts on the best way of acquiring such? I've only ever used inbuilt systems in laptops.

I have an older model Microsoft Lifecam Cinema webcam that does have a microphone and also has working native open source Linux drivers. Newer webcams may be nicer and easier to locate such as a Logitech C930 but i'm unaware if native Linux driver support is available.

>It'd be really cool to have two monitors for my computer. Woud that motherboard support such?

That Asus motherboard can run up to three monitors using different display connectors with just the onboard video provided by the Intel CPU.

The EVGA videocard supports running four displays with proper connectors. I have three monitors on my pc with an nvidia evga 1070 graphics card using displayport to HDMI adapters easily located from amazon

The monitors I use are Acer H236HL models that offer very nice slim bezels and IPS LCD panels and support HDMI connections. These monitors are an older model acer however for the cost they are a fantastic economical option of you only require 1080p resolution. Here's a couple Linus Tech Tips reviews on these monitors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXX0cCWWDsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGn3I9BIAo

For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

That's a really flawed argument because companies sell snake oil all the time

"4K Hdmi cables from Monster."

That's no good, son. Those aren't virus proof and very prone to leaking. To avoid a costly digital leak you should immediately upgrade. Here this cable should be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Got you covered.

Dude i'd rather buy a console than pay this much for an HDMI cable. Damn thing isn't even virus proof

also needs this HDMI cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

And it's definitely no AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 Schonmal was davon gehört?

Only two left... better go get yours quick!

I don't know if a $3300 powered one exists, but there is this one for under $7k, which is well below your insane $20k guess. I'd like to see exactly what the $3300 one they're referring to is, it could just be some insanely overpriced mechanical one that nobody buys, like those ridiculous HDMI cables they sell on Amazon.

Yeah, really. Why even bother buying cables that are that cheap? Everyone knows you have to spend at least $1,000.00 for an HDMI cable.

To think Monster cables are bad, check this cable out: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Oddly enough Best Buy also seems to carry these in my area, and they sell for $350. Yay for Monoprice! They get you on the shipping sometimes but the cables are dirt cheap and work great.

They need the proper cabling as well.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

You need a better hdmi cable. /s

But really, if you're happy with your set up don't worry about it.

Non-mobile version.

Better get your self one of these to go with it!
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

I don't know. Those audio quest cables seem to change people's lives.

Just look at these reviews!

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hY-zub09K6R66

you mean something like this from amazon?

Still positive feedback without proper use of said law firm would also be just as wrong as negative feedback without proper use. It may become one of those pages that have 4-5 star reviews and the stories are ridiculous.


/r/humorousreviews

Don't forget your diamond HDMI cable for Surface Silver Conductors and Dielectric-Bias Audio.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AudioQuest-Diamond-Cables-Standard-10-2-Gbit-Black/dp/B003CT2A2M

Isn't Audioquest that shitty company who tries to sell $1500 6ft HDMI cables?

yup, that's them

This one doesn’t even come with next day delivery!

Just go with the diamonds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_K2riybVQWNBMQ

But really, HDMI is digital, so it's broadcasting all 1s and 0s. There's no degradation in quality possible, it either works or it doesn't.

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

Maybe it comes with AudioQuest Diamond cables

Fuck that. It's on Amazon for $400 less! Ratuken is a ripoff!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M

What a great deal, almost $500 less than Amazon!

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

You absolutely must buy this.

Or just the 5$ cable in the nearest shop. Cables don't influence quality of digital signals. :)

Yeah they are way too overpriced,Try these.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/product-reviews/B003CT2A2M/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

The Amazon reviews are hilarious

Holy shit!

The second review is hilarious

Dandelion and burdock

How about these then

From the people who would like to sell me a £2299 5m hdmi cable. No, you're going to actually have to produce some evidence.

No no, he should have gotten this. http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

At least it wasn't this one

You mean I didn't had to buy AudioQuest Diamond HDMI to have a superior experience?

Look at top comment LOL

If the quality is not good enough after using this cable maybe you should upgrade to this one instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_dp_all_helpful/184-4259725-4864155?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new this is only $2.7k!!! BARGAIN.

Someone may correct me, but I don't believe the Apple TV is capable of outputting an uncompressed 1920x1080 video stream.

Why do you need an Apple TV between the iMac and your TV in the first place? Why not use something like this?

Well, I see you've sent the adapter back...still I'll offer my experience. I own a late-2011 MBP (2.4 GHz i7) running OS X Lion 10.7.4 as well, and I run it through to a monitor with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I have had no hiccups with that. I also have an Asus monitor. I feel it must be something to do with your adapter. When I connected them up my first time, it detected both automatically. So don't worry, you didn't just throw money away. You can get this to work. Make sure that the monitor is turned on (I'm positive you're smarter than that, but you would not believe some people who don't do this) and also that your computer is plugged into a power source. I will monitor this thread for your update. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

$9 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI and if you have a new enough Mac, it supports sound through DisplayPort as well. There's a list on the apple webpage for which computers are supported. I bought one and it works great.

This.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I am using this but am looking for something better. I plan on going S-Video so possibly this but I would rather not have to press a button to switch between Composite and S-Video. For the Wii I use this and for the PS2 I use this. For the PS2 you have to trim the USB cable to be able to use it vertical. For the Xbox there is no solution so I use this

https://www.amazon.ca/Portta-Component-Converter-Adapter-%C2%A0Windows%C2%A010/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I would say the the PS3's component cables and that and you'd be off to the races. The component cables for the PS3 give you the plug you need on the back of the system, that box converts it to HDMI, HDMI is read by your HD60.

I think the mistake you are making is assuming you need to go directly from Female Component to Male HDMI which you won't really find as it is a more complex conversion than a cable can manage. A little box like this, or anything similar, will convert the signal for you and then you can just use a regular male to male HDMI to connect to your HD60.

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

What I'm doing, and this is the best quality PS2 video I've managed to conjure up on my HD projector, is using a PS2 component cable and a component-to-HDMI converter. There are a lot of different kinds of converters than the one I linked here. My receiver doesn't have HDMI, so I'm converting the receiver's component out to an HDMI hub.

Try something like this. It's cheaper, and should solve your problem

[choose this one! I have it and works awesome!](Portta YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 support LPCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kHKNzb32F62WN)

You can accomplish this in a couple different ways i think. If your display is using an HDMI input then I would probably just buy a Really Long HDMI Cable. If it is maybe an older display or computer and you need to use a DVI input you could using something like this: http://www.datapro.net/products/dvi-inline-repeater-booster.html

An electrician isn't what you're looking for and I'm not sure what you mean by "surround sound console". All you really need is a 5 channel A/V receiver that is HDMI compatible, a source for your media (Roku, Fire Stick, chromecast, game console, etc...), and HDMI cables to connect everything together. Judging by the horrendous way in which the power cable for the projector was run, I'm going to assume there is no HDMI cable going to the projector. If this is the case, you're going to need to pull an HDMI cable from the projector location to where your speaker wires end up. I don't know how far the projector is from where your speaker wires are coming out of the wall but I'm going to assume that they are in a closet adjacent to the lounge. Since you are only going to be using 1080p, an HDMI cable that is no more than 50ft will do just fine ( https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY ). If running a cable is necessary and you are not comfortable doing it yourself, look for a low-voltage electrician/installer in your area. You could probably even use a general contractor since that would be a fairly easy installation for any contractor worth their salt. Once you have all your cables and equipment, hooking everything up is fairly easy and can be done by almost anyone with access to Google. Your projector also appears to be in need of an alignment.
Source: professional home automation and A/V integrator

Big Picture is just an interface - a different way to view the same list of games. If you are running the Big Picture steam client beta, you can access Big Picture on your desktop PC by launching steam and clicking the Big Picture logo in the corner. So yes, you need a dedicated PC attached to your TV if you want to use Big Picture on your TV. The performance of the games accessed via the Big Picture interface should only vary if your tv or cabling has greater latency than your PC monitor.

Personally, I bought a 50 foot HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV when they were in separate rooms and it worked great. This is the first I've heard of HDMI over ethernet - that sounds pretty cool! I suppose it's really only useful if you plan on exceeding 50 feet of HDMI or if you have in wall Ethernet cabling already installed in your home. No idea how it would effect latency.

As for controllers, if you are exceeding 10 feet, going through walls, etc, then you are going to have trouble with many bluetooth devices. This is a problem I was never able to fully solve, and now my PC is next to my TV so it's no longer an issue for me. When it was, I usually used my 360 controller as my primary input device while on the couch, as I typically only played on the couch when I wanted to kick back and mash some buttons. I'd recommend getting a wireless 360 controller receiver. Mine worked fine traveling about 20 feet through 2 walls with no noticeable performance issues.

I feel you, here's my solution:

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B000KA5T6A

http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Installation--supports-Return-version/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369161450&sr=1-5&keywords=long+hdmi+cable

This is the cable OP needs.

Also just recently purchased this. I noticed tiny little white dots appearing randomly at 100hz. Once I switched out the cable with a nicer one the issue was resolved. Here is the cable I’m using now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JnfeAbF1KV04R

Had the same problem with my monitor. The included dp cable is junk. The monitor was flickering and refresh rate was stuck at 85hz. I bought this cable http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 and problem solved.

Are they like randomly appearing green dots that blink around the screen? That's usually caused by insufficient bandwidth on your monitor cable.

Agree with throwywayradeon here. Get a CERTIFIED DP 1.3 cable such as this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Edit: It says DP 1.2 but it works fine with 1440p/144, I'm using it without issues at 1440p/165.

I got the 27 inch version of that monitor a few months ago. I used a cheap DP cable from Amazon, and the display would flicker to black above 65 Hz at 1440p. Apparently, not all DP cables are created equal, and you have to use a DP 1.2 certified one (see https://www.displayport.org/products-database/). I ended up getting Accell one such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Perhaps, this is your problem?

You cannot get 144hz through an hdmi cable on the xb271hu. Im not sure what issues you're having with your dp connection. Did you check to make sure the resolution is set to 1440p and the scaling is at 100%. Also unplug the hdmi cable. If not that the cable could be the issue. The dp cable that came with my xb271hu was awful and would randomly lose connection. I would recommend purchasing a new dp cable if you are using the one that came with the monitor. I attached to the link for the cable i bought and i have no issue running at 1440p 165hz with my xb271hu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For >60hz you need a graphics card and monitor with displayport connections. Also a nice cable that can handle the bandwidth. For that I recommend this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1&psc=1

Are you sure your DP is bad? You need to make sure you're using a VESA certified DP cable. Check out the reviews of a VESA certified cable here.

If you stay with HDMI you'll also want to confirm that your GPU hasn't decided that your monitor is an HDTV. Check out this article.

Haha, I bought that same cable in your link and returned it for the AMD recommended cable here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_t9uOwb4T8TKDD

I must admit that I didn't think replacing a cable would make a difference, but using that one in my link fixed half of my problems.

The glass is the only issue I have. Supposedly removing it is easy, but it's not a big problem to me. People talk about PWM flicker being a problem IIRC, but it looks completely fine to me. (everyone seems to be different about that though)
If you do decide on this, make sure you order a legit DP cable, because the one it came with was trash. I recommend Accell cables.

[Mini DP] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)

Standard.

And Here's my setup

What do you mean by "which dp 1.1"? If you mean the cable, I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I just set the input to DP 1.1, rather than DP 1.2 on the on screen display, and it got rid of my issues with no noticeable cons

In theory most cables will work, but if something is slightly out of tolerance high refresh/resolution can be problematic.

If you want a high-quality AV grade cable I recommend Accell: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Comprehensive is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Comprehensive-Cable-DISP-HD-3ST-Standard-DisplayPort/dp/B006X0OBAQ/

I bought this one, and it works perfectly fine.

This is the exact cable recommended by Acer and AMD for the XR341CK back in 2015/2016. Pretty sure it's the recommended one for the g-sync model too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actually I see displayport 1.4 cables are already hitting the market so that's probably not a good recommendation. The select manufacturer Accell doesn't have 1.4 cables out yet. It's my understanding that the first 4K 144hz monitors to hit the market will require 2 DP1.4 cables connected at once so assuming backwards compatibility is there buying a 1.2 cable may be a waste.

Make sure you get a product that is certified by DisplayPort.
You can search for certs here:

https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/

This is the one I have:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

Does 3440x1440 @ 100hz no problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

If you do replace your cable that's the best one to get, it's actually certified. But the bigger issue is games hiding 3D rendering behind a static image. No cable will stop that from the freesync flicker.

I bought This one!

The HP11 uses a funky "Slimport" HDMI port - $50 for just the slimport to normal HDMI.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Here's one for $30.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort-HDMI-Adapter-Connect-enabled/dp/B00DWGB6CU

And you'd still need the hdmi->DVI on top of that.

You can. Also, with lollipop I have been using the built in Google Cast feature, which works quite well.

Je suis débile.

J'avais pété l'écran de mon nexus 4 il y a quelques mois, le téléphone était devenu inutilisable, le tactile ne fonctionnant plus. Pas envie d'acheter un nouvel écran pour le réparer, je l'avais mis de côté. Et là, je me suis dit que ça pourrait être cool d'utiliser le nexus 4 pour le brancher en HDMI sur ma télé. Suffirait d'avoir une souris bluetooth et un truc comme ça, et roulez jeunesse.

J'ai réussi à trouver une appli me permettant de prendre le contrôle du téléphone via USB, pour vérifier que tout fonctionnait correctement. Et là, je me suis rendu compte que le téléphone étant rooté, certaines appli que je voudrais utiliser sur ma télé ne fonctionneraient pas. Qu'à cela ne tienne, je n'avais qu'à "dérooter" le téléphone, et tant qu'à faire, réinstaller une ROM pour repartir de zéro. Donc, je réinstalle une ROM. Je démarre le téléphone... Ecran d'accueil... Ah ben merde, comment je fais pour aller plus loin que l'écran d'accueil ? Ah ben je peux pas : impossible d'utiliser l'appli sus-citée : il faut activer le débogage USB pour qu'elle fonctionne, et impossible d'appairer une souris bluetooth : le bluetooth n'est pas activé par défaut. Je crois que mon téléphone ne me sert plus à rien.

Je suis débile.

Any decent quality thick 6ft extension cables should work fine for most cases, but with longer cables there's might be problems. I use these (USB 6ft. and HDMI 6ft.) extension cables made by UGreen and they works great with my Lenovo Explorer.

Manitoba here, these worked for me:

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet

Sure, that was on the german website though.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00NH134L6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It depends on which hdmi standard it supports, how long your extension is and your graphics card, apparently. Search for hdmi extension in this subreddit. I remember that there was an FAQ on extensions as well. Tonight I'll add links to things I bought to my article.

This is the extension I bought.

The is wat i bought... i think its the same

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would like to say this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 HDMI extension works well too! :)

I have the Aorus 1080ti and have no issues with extensions. I'm using separate cables for each though as I've heard some of those specific headset extensions can be a pain. I got these and so far so good -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: I clipped the two together and no issues with tangling and that. This also helps a lot - http://lightingandceilingfans.com/wp-content/uploads/imgp/regolit-floor-lamp-6-7275.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered both of these, based on Tyriel Wood's review of them, and said they're working great on his Ody+, and mine has too. No issues.

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Diamond Audiophile cables.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1483570673&sr=8-14&keywords=audioquest+cables+diamond

These aren't cables for audio, but they also sell those at RIDICULOUS prices!

How about the $14,000 one?http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1/184-7653550-8381829?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MKENQJGVY0Z178WBB9M

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

Pfft. Don't buy that cheap garbage. Get one of these

It's not the headphones, it's the HDMI cable he uses

only 1.5k ? oh cmon...

Je pose ça la :
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Tout simplement magique.

What? That's a steal! You could buy 17 of those for the price of one of these diamond braided cables!

nvidia took adaptive sync, added a frame buffer module to the monitor. that is it. the "benefits" are all but marketing bullshit (which you apparently are dumb enough to not only believe but fight others over)

>I really don't know why people try to sell these cards for their preferred company

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL

the fact you ACTUALLY think gsync has REAL benefits over freesync is so insane, its almost not even funny. its almost to the point of sad. i almost pity you.

>There's no point in having a conversation with someone who doesn't bother to google basic facts and instantly downvotes a reply.
Have a good day, and I hope you learn to research things a bit more.

LOOOOOOOOL

you must be seriously mentally ill... you say i dont research, yet its you who doesnt research anything. reading the nvidia marketing page is not research...............

>Would Freesync even exist if it wasn't for that? Give Nvidia credit for the innovation and the better solution.

do you remember you said this? amd could never have created freesync without nvidia and nvidia deserves credit for inventing it.

the real knee slapper here is you said

>I guess that proprietary gsync hardware module does nothing.

and you didnt put /s. and in reality, its 100% true, it really does nothing. so you just argued against your self, using a valid point when you meant it sarcastically.


btw hey. i have some hdmi cables which are vastly superior to other hdmi cables.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

please buy them. they are actually better than any other hdmi cable on the market (like seriously). im seriously being serious. they are the highest quality hdmi cables, and are better than all other hdmi cables. just because you will never ever notice any difference between this and an $8 hdmi cable doesnt matter. they are scientifically better. (wait a second. its almost as if its the same thing with gsync. omg then your entire argument would be wrong. omg. mind blown). i know, it may take a little while for your brain to reboot after such a huge epiphany.

Well, you go ahead and "invest" in a small 4k TV that you sit 10 feet away from.

To make sure you enjoy the picture quality improvements, I suggest you buy these, to optimize your "investment":

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Do you need an expensive one? No. And $60-75 isn't even considered THAT expensive (that is an obscene example, though. Everything about it is wrong and benefits non-existent). Honestly, I don't know the last time I've even paid more than $10-15 for a decent cable.

You should at least get a decent one, though. Making a cord meet the requirements of 4K or whatever are easy for manufacturers. It either works or it doesn't. Making one last with repeated plug/unplug or other forms of durability testing are only slightly more difficult.

Monoprice has good stuff. Also check out amazonbasics.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

well, they also have better HDMI cables: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

If there is a market for $1000 HDMI cables, there surely is one for an iron of the same price.

> Good thing those are cheap.

Depends.

Because he has leaked CIA documents that can only be accesed via a NES cartridge but he doesn't have a thousand dollar HDMI cable to help him on his quest of defeating Kim Jon Un's private army of lizard people.

Do I need:

No.


What do they do:
Reduce noise ever so slightly. I mean there's articles upon articles of how nobody can notice the difference. I mean even as an extreme: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

behold, over $1k for an HDMI cable. The reviews are great.

And here's a $1000 HDMI cable on Amazon
which is absolutely no better than a $6 HDMI cable

Wait..are you telling me this was a waste of money?

I saw a 1000 dollar one on Amazon. You reckon that would sort it?. Check out the reviews. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Of course they are :)

He forgot about hdmi cables $1100 each

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-1m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

oh wait these are $13.5k each

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D5ZS8DKJPZHW26NKQ2P

6ft!!! Better hurry before they go out of stock!
I saw one of these for and hdmi cable on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This one should work https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

It only works with the most high quality HDMI cables. You need to use this. Plus you get free shipping! /s

$.50 HDMI cable? You need this for a decent picture.

cheaper there than at amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003CT08E4/

Then explain why gold plated hdmi cables are still selling for a $1000. If it was based on need then price would reflect it, instead it takes advantage of a person's need, couples it with their ignorance and manipulates them to spend 100x more.

>$499.99

You peasant, if it doesn't cost over $1,000 then it's worthless.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT08E4

We're not dangerously close tbqh:

$1500 6.5ft HDMI cable

$500 Ethernet cable from Denon for their "Link"

Retro-access's prices are higher, but it surely is not audiophile snake-oil lunacy. She was making cables before anyone on eBay (US) and were always $20-28, before the cheaper ones were a cut-rate option.

I'd do what any rational newly wealthy person would do...buy this

Agreed. Also be aware that while the signal quality doesn't really change from cable to cable, the quality of assembly might. I was using a cheapy cable and the head just completely detached from the cable, leaving all of the connection tabs (the actual wire that makes contact inside the port) spread out and gangley for all the world to see.

Not saying that $20+ makes any sense other than pure mark up, but just that all cables aren't necessarily equal. Some are in-wall rated, some aren't, and could help to burn down your house in the even of fire. There are always considerations, so don't oversimplify to "all HDMI are the same." Just that the over priced nonsense is just that. Audioquest is probably the worst with their Diamond cable.

You trying to tell me that my diamond HDMI cable is not worth $13,000? We can fight.

Reminds me of the reviews for AudioQuest Diamond HDMI cables

No, you need this cable.

would this product qualify?

Great advice!! So I should get these?? https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

The Q1 is far better than the DF Black and its size is palpable. The internal battery of the Q1 will also prevent super fast drainage of your phone's battery.

Audioquest is mostly selling overpriced garbage and $2000 HDMI cables

That's cheap mate check this one out or maybe this one from Amazon......

there's [nothing] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418086421&sr=1-1&keywords=audioquest+cable) [wrong] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Coffee-12m-Braided-HDMI/dp/B003CT5KMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418086421&sr=1-17&keywords=audioquest+cable) [with] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-NRG-WEL-Signature-Power/dp/B0055OM9WS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418086421&sr=1-3&keywords=audioquest+cable) [audioquest] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-NRG-4-Power-Cable-15ft/dp/B008AL0ASI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418086421&sr=1-5&keywords=audioquest+cable) at all, did I say there was anything wrong with them?

Maybe
http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

Silver is better: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

they're not the only ones with the jokes, check out Amazon http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Thats nothing

16

Because who doesn't want to pay more than one grand for a regular cable?

Good guy ehngage, providing true customer support. I hate how companies try to rip off customers like that. Best buy used to have a 1000 dollar hdmi cable, apparently they stopped carrying it bahahaha. Amazon carries it though! http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Look at it, in all of its glory.

As I see it, that rate (more like our refresh rate) is probably more closely related to the 10ms timescale mentioned in the first Wikipedia article I linked, reference 4 (paywall). The author of the Wikipedia article implies that subjects couldn't discern two colors as individual when they came after one-another on the order of 10ms. I unfortunately can't independently check this due to the paywall :(.

Anyhow, it seems like this ca. 10ms refresh rate is close to the speed at which we run into problems of image persistence (and thus diminishing returns in increasing framerates), though it seems like current science doesn't know where that limit is for certain. Either way, we can't even tell something happened if it was faster than 1/240th of a second (~5ms). Much faster is almost certainly overkill (ie. 2000fps I'd expect to be undifferentiable from 1000fps). I could certainly be wrong, though...

I wanted to make a quick comment about your earlier post:
>First, don't we have 144hz displays already? And people can certainly tell the difference between 80fps vs 144fps, right? Or else nobody would buy those monitors? Also, it was announced that James Cameron is going to have Avatar 2 in theaters at 120fps. I doubt people in Hollywood would put those extra frames in there for nothing

I think we've got to be careful of using the argument that, if people buy things, there must be a tangible benefit (besides enjoying it more because it's more expensive/fancier). There's plenty of silly stuff that people will spend money on. Often it's just for padding the spec sheet to add perceived value. For example, I'm of the opinion that there's no reason to have a phone with a display that's 8k since there's not really a perceptible difference - it's not physically possible to discern the pixels at a reasonable distance (~6 inches or so). That's not to say that it's impossible to make improvements to current phone displays (brighter, better viewing angles, etc.), just that 4k is a reasonable limit in necessary resolution, and 4k seems like overkill, or at least the threshold of it. An 8k display and a 4k display of identical quality in every other respect should thus be undifferentiable from one-another (except in their power consumption and memory/CPU usage...).

Nonsense, everyone's know that a good HDMI cable can upscale your resolution to 6K and 200Mhz, i personally recommend this one http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

/s

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/product-reviews/B003CT2A2M/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1

For that perfect quality you've always wanted.

DIRTY THIRTY

here you go

AudioQuest Diamond 2m HDMI Cable

They have a $1700 diamond plated HDMI cable now. Not even kidding

Not monster cable but... You get the point.

I wish my hdmi cable was that cheap

Amazon reviews

Expensive item

Cheap Banana slicer with awesome reviews

Chuckle worthy thing

They do!

Get on my level https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top#customerReviews

don't get an interface if you only have 5k, get two of these cables (one for each channel, left and right if you want stereo) http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Don't listen to /u/PM_MeYourFeels. You need this HDMI cable. It's also made by Audioquest, but it's longer, and longer is better, just ask your Mom.

pffft....I think this one would do the job

Here you go :
http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t

No this is the cable they wanted.

Like this? :D

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Amazon.

Not good enough

Edit: Broken link

Check page 23 of AudioQuests retail book, they sell a $13,500 cable.

I remember posting this about 10 months ago here a different cable from the same company, the BB link is dead but had hilarious reviews.

And here is one you can buy now for $2,695

It has everything you ever dreamed of

Better:
http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2

Pfff, Monster cables have nothing on the Diamond HDMI cables! http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

Edit: free shipping, so that about evens it all out.

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/tags-on-product/B003CT2A6I

wow you're retarded. you should have gone with this one bro, way better deal

psh gold is for poor people. http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I thats my hdmi cable

I'll just leave this here

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1300949931&sr=1-3

First review definitely smells like a redditor

Reminds me of these reviews.

Er kann sich nur Kabel mit einem Zweistelligen Preis leisten 😂.

[2000+ EUR HDMI Kabel Meisterrasse hier]
(https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/)

Die Kommentare sind echt Gold wert.

This one. Actually, I don't know if it matters what brand it is, because I don't really use HDMI. Anyway I hope someone can help!

I found it finally, but i typed the wrong prize above ;D

Link

This guy needs one of these.

Lets clear up the misinterpretation first:

1. HDMI protocols have a degree of error correction and detection, not the cable. I would never suggest that the cable did. If I had to bracket anything it would have been [the signal, HDMI protocol]. When physical faults begin to occur, ECC (or some variant) can correct for the occasional bit or two going missing.
   
   
2. Crap cables, ie: the $1 cables that you are talking about generally do not cause problems. Cable faults cause the problem. Cheap cables generally have more faults than more expensive ones, assuming that the manufacturer is not simply over-charging for a data cable. (NOTE: We start to get into a durability and construction issues, which I reference as a fault)
   
   
3. I was not arguing that cables never fail, and know nothing about Monster propaganda.
   
   I have been down this argument path before, and suggest that you learn about the protocols that are used in sending data, not analog signals. It is really is interesting stuff.
   
   Edit: We are discussing two interdependent layers of transport. While this does not directly translate, the OSI model is a good reference. Physical faults cause issues with the protocols, and when the protocols start rejecting data, then we have visible errors that the user can see.
   
   Edit 2: What I term as complete bull-shit: http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I

Get a Diamond coated one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B003CT2A6I/R16FBUA47DFPA6/ref=mw_dp_cr?cursor=2&qid=1376520150&sort=rd&sr=8-2

The comments for this * http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mini_Dis-HDMI-CB6-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM problem solved

Don't know how old is "older", but this works for my 2008 mbp

It looks just like this, but its not 6 feet. I'm sure its the same brand as mine, but only about 5 inches long. I bought mine off amazon, also.

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2C2WSYFK07OWY&colid=ERJRWF83N1LV

I'm your average broke college kid and I would love to have this to take back home with me for the holidays. thank you!!

> The device needs to work on WiFi without Internet access.

I don't think you're going to get that—all devices capable of playing Plex (Chromecast, Roku, AppleTV, Amazon Firestick) all require internet access, as the device is directly communicating with your server. Read this from the Plex support docs:

>It's important to note that the Chromecast streams content directly from the Plex Media Server (or Cloud Sync).

>When you use a mobile device or browser to initiate a cast, the content does not go "through" that device and then to the Chromecast; you're free to disconnect or turn off the casting app at any time if you wish to do so and that won't affect the stream.

Best solution for you: get a cable that allows you to hook up your laptop to a TV.

If you have a Mac, one of these will do it, if you have a newer PC, it may have a HDMI port so all you'd need is a HDMI cable. If the laptop is older and only has a VGA output, you'd have to get something like this that is capable of converting the signal.

this is the same exact one i bought. it is cheap and a descent length. what more do you want!

Yes those. If your monitor doesn't have one, somthing like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM

or this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=5106

Should work.

I just threw on this Gigabyte HD 7970 on my new gaming PC and it works like a charm. It's well know, reliable, and has multiple ports. While it says it doesn't have two HDMI ports right off the bat, it has one HDMI port and 2 mini display ports. You can easily get either a converter, or a cable that goes from mini display port to HDMI (here is one that is $5 for 6 ft, cheaper than some HDMI cables). Mine even came with an adapter in the box, so I'd definitely consider this as an option.

decibel... This and since this is cheap maybe give something to some one else?

yeah. I cast the tab using that chromecast chrome extension, then hit full screen... which makes it go full screen on the TV, but not my computer (so I can talk to these wackos at r/phish)... This is from memory though, haven't done it since mexico streams.... As far as other direct ways, I've also connected my laptop to the tv via this very cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The only downside to that is that it makes it harder to talk to the wackos at r/phish during the show

I've been using C&E adapters from Amazon for years without issue:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Final edit for now: This method produces suitably high-res videos on the hard drive, but they lose a ton of fidelity when they get uploaded. I'll leave this up for now; hopefully someone can advise.

This isn't as ideal as an all-inclusive app, but there is a pretty easy way to do what you need if you have access to a MacBook. You would want to:

• Connect the MacBook to the projector (you might find this item helpful)
  
• Connect the iPad Pro to the MacBook
  
• Boot up the preinstalled copy of QuickTime Player on the MacBook
  
• Select New Movie Recording from the file menu
  
• In the window that pops up, click the little arrow next to the record button and change the camera to the iPad Pro
  
• Drag the window as needed for your projection
  
• Boot up ZoomNotes on the iPad Pro
  
• Make the QuickTime window full screen
  
• Start recording
  
  It seems somewhat involved, but it took me more time to write out these directions than it did to actually record and upload a sample video. Total cake after you do it once or twice.
  
  Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Seriously? They are like $3 on amazon.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1453383749&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+display+to+hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=31UyLpBdAOL&ref=plSrch

Most cables should work, but be sure to read lots of reviews. If the cable isn't properly shielded, you may run into interference issues with your WiFi on your MacBook.

This is the one I use and I haven't had any issues with it. Convenient having a single cable for video and audio when plugging into my TV.

I would reccomend something along the lines of this.

Its more expensive than a hdmi to comp cable, but it actually works. Or you could upgrade your TV, if thats any option for you right now.

I would think this would work. You'd need a ps3 component cable, though.

You could get away with using an HDMI only device if you wanted to do that by converting the analog signal to a digital one. I have the Elgato HD 60, which only has the HDMI input so to capture something like Xbox 360 games, I have to convert the signal.

This is exactly what I bought for the 360 and have had great success with it. For composite you would need this as well.

I honestly don't know of any capture cards outside of the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle that have legacy inputs and I've had no luck getting the Intensity Shuttle to capture any sub-480p resolutions. I would convert the analog signals to digital and buy a modern capture card.

I personally prefer emulators when they work properly. But, I assume you want to use a console. Buying another recording tool sounds expensive from the items I looked into. Getting a component to HDMI converter seems like it would be the best option for time, cost and effort as it should only take moments to set up.

Edit: The one I linked above does have a lot of bad reviews. Here is a secondary site that sells converters and the converters have great reviews, but it costs almost twice the price.

If I understand the question correctly, I would use one of these.
Component to HDMI
or
RCA to HDMI
The first one should give you a better picture.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1301323081&sr=8-2

This will convert Component signal to HDMI.

Yeah this is normal I have the Same one does the same thing for me...

your best bet for Converting to HDMI and Upscaleing are these 2 items or just get a Used Wii U since it plays Wii Games in 1080p.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14Y9I/

This one will give you full HD: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1487625924&sr=8-15&keywords=Composite+to+HDMI+converter

Unless you get a higher end AVR with ADC which will cost more, there are some adapters for cheap on Amazon but the reviews are pretty mixed such as this.

That said, it is relatively cheap and Amazon has a good return policy so may be worth a shot.

Only DVI-I supports analog, DVI-D is digital only. And DP also supports analog signals natively.

As for converting component RGB signal, HDMI might actually be your best bet, as this conversion is done in a lot of AV/Home Theater setups, so there's a lot of support/hardware for it.

So something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320054821&sr=8-2

Yes there are component to HDMI converters, like this one:

Portta PETRHP V1.3 Component RGB Plus R/L to HDMI Converter Support 1080p for DVD PS3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6YNGub1BPK617

Is this what youre looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

Here's a cable only solution and here's a converter box solution.

I don't have any experience with these, but you could try finding a component to HDMI adapter, like this.

Does your TV have component video?


https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C28D4MH2NMXZEW8D1Y2F

This is the one I use. Works great. I got lucky and got it for about about $10 on eBay though. https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521116497&sr=1-1&keywords=portta+component+to+hdmi&dpID=41mr9xhIDBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

These Framemeister/OSSC recommendations are pretty ridiculous.

What TV do you have? A simple component-HDMI transcoder like this is likely all you'll need, most 4K TVs handle 480p better than the Framemeister due to its lackluster handling of YPbPr.

If you have a number of 240p consoles that you want to play on your 4K TV, then the OSSC/Framemeister might be worth it, but for 480p consoles they're not worth the expense.

Didn't notice that.

How about this Component to HDMI on Amazon. It looks like you'll need a convertor for the audio, but according to the reviews, it comes with that.

There are a few others that seem like they might work, but they don't have the best reviews.

There is this Wii to HDMI convertor which seems the simplest, but it doesn't have any reviews, so I don't know how well it works.

You can get separate HDMI converters that will work with any Capture Card. Here are a few from Amazon (I own each of these except the component one, and they work fine):

Component to HDMI Converter

Composite AV to HDMI Converter

HDMI Splitter

The splitter is nice to have, you can use it to enforce compatibility with the PS3, which usually has HDCP issues with capture cards.

Oops, sorry, not sure how I ended up copying and pasting your link instead of mine.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VJ9RP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

That's the page. The converter and upscaler are both selectable. I bought the converter previously when I was trying to stream Ps3 and needed to strip the hdcp. I ended up using an hdmi splitter instead. Ps2 came so I was playing around with component/hdmi converter. I realize now it probably would have made more sense to spend the $5 more and have got the upscaler.

There is not a cord that will do it, but you can get a converter. Why are you not using HDMI though? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VJ9RP6/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/189-6275564-8595915

I've been very pleased with the build quality on these, though I've not done 4k with them. They feel high quality and are dirt cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484704969&sr=8-3&keywords=50+ft+hdmi

So just to be clear, I should have 2 50 foot hdmi cables with a repeater in between them?
And I think these hdmi cables look better:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519238634&sr=8-3&keywords=high+speed+hdmi+50+foot

And a cat6a would be good enough for the usb extension?
There is 3(ish) things that concern me with this setup.
1)
I have stated this concern here
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7z3yai/usb_kvm_extender_problem/
And this would apply to the usb to ethernet extension.
2)
The hdmi repeater you linked to seems too slow.
The specs for it says max speed output is 6.0 Gbps, and hdmi 1.3 needs 10.2 Gbps.
3)
Lag, I plan on playing fps games and stuff on my desk and I can't have usb lag slowing me down.

I guess I'm confused - if the max usable usb length is 5m, then why do they sell 50' lengths?

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-High-Speed-480Mbps-Extension-Repeater/dp/B00GLZYG6M?ie=UTF8&colid=1TCP9F9SLAVIV&coliid=I1ZE7CT0N999FI&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Ditto for HDMI: http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-Cable-wall/dp/B004GW25WY?ie=UTF8&colid=1TCP9F9SLAVIV&coliid=I3HIWILOABOJUB&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I mean, I could probably do HDMI / USB > Ethernet > HDMI / USB connections, but it seems a bit silly if the full length cords are readily available and reasonably priced.

The thing about a repeater is that it would be bulky and above my door.

What would you think of this

What do you mean by not enough juice coming from the Gpu? I'm asking this because my current build has a 50 ft hdmi cable going from my Gpu(Gtx 1070 FE) to a TV across the room. How is this different in the Oculus?(I genuinely do not know) When I purchased this cable, I read some hdmi cables, because of how they're made, don't always output signal, especially if they're long(typing this from memory), so I made sure to read reviews thoroughly and the cable I purchased was capable of this. Would such a thing be possible with the Oculus? Or is it always going to be the same story?

Regarding the TV in your bedroom: If the PS3 in your living room is close to the TV in your bedroom, you could get away with a long run of HDMI... especially if you're just passing the cable through a wall. From what I've read, the general consensus regarding HDMI cable length is about 50ft max.

Here's a highly reviewed 50ft HDMI cable that's rated for in-wall installation.

If it's a really long distance requiring that you run the cable up a wall, over a ceiling, and down another wall, you'll want to run Cat5e or Cat6. If you decide to run Cat5e or Cat6, make sure you run two lengths of cable. You'll need both for the extender adapters. It seems the reviews on these adapters varies a lot, so look for a product with a decent amount of positive reviews. Most products appear to allow for a maximum cable length of 150ft to 200ft.

Question for you... if your PS3 is connected to the TV in your living room, how are you planning to connect it to the TV in your bedroom? Unplug and re-plug two separate HDMI cables? HDMI splitter?

Couldn't find anything about active but cables said category 2 1080p with deep color support. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY?pc_redir=1408767100&robot_redir=1

Theater room can be a vr space as well, just buy a 50ft hdmi cable!

I recently bought a new monitor, and from what I understand, DisplayPort cables that are packed with them aren't often high quality, which would explain some of the issues I'm having with Freesync (blurriness and discoloration when scrolling, mostly). I'm looking at the Accell cables that seem to be suggested by a lot of users on here, but I wanted to make sure that buying the DP 1.2 cables instead of the newer 1.4 cables would be fine. I'm using an RX 480, if that matters. Thanks!

Couple months ago I got a 1080p 144hz monitor (acer xf240h) I had some flickering issues and I went to buy a displayport cable instead of using the one that came with the monitor. I'm still experiencing flickering issues though. This is the cable I got https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE. Any chance I got a faulty one? Or is there something wrong with my monitor/gpu? GPU is an r9 290x

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

directly from this FAQ, which was authored by an AMD employee:

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3uvp02/a_holiday_reminder_on_quality_displayport_cables/

I recently purchased this cable. It is DisplayPort certified! Link

Don't rule out the DP cable as yet. I have had similar issues with a Cable Matters DP cable (even at 1080p/120Hz on a second monitor).

However, upon reading more on forums about the same issue that you speak of, I switched to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since then, I haven't had a single issue with my X34.

Cool i'll check them out.

I bought https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Cable-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE today but it says 1.2. Worse case scenario i'm fine with just sticking with 144hz for now which the one i bought is said to be good for.

If your DP cable is not certified I would simply buy a certified cable to start and this would likely solve your issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Cable-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=accell+displayport+cable&qid=1550349837&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Buy the 1m cable.

Check out the monitor extensively when you get it, keep the packaging and so forth.

If you see any glaring flaws that you won't accept, box it back up and RMA it. Eventually, they'll give you one that isn't bad. With refurbs, warranty periods are small so if the monitor isn't satisfactory be quick to send it back.

Usually, I've had good experience with refurbs so I doubt it'll be much of an issue. Keep in mind that it could be that the monitor was sent back to Acer because it couldn't fit on a desk or something of the sort. Just make sure to check it out thoroughly before you toss the packaging.

Also, if possible, don't use the included DP cable, I've heard it causes problems with the screen skipping/going black. I'm using an accell DP cable that works great, pick it up if you have problems in that category:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=twister_B00ACFUB84?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For a refurb though, if it has no really big problems, you scored huge!

From what I have read and what you have said that makes me feel more confident that it is the cable provided with the monitor.

Apparently for DP 1.2 the cable needs to have the removal of a certain pin that is in the free cables that come with the monitors.

My new cable comes in today I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!



Update: Cable defiantly fixed it, I have had no issues since I switched. Gforce experience used to cause all of the problems to happen at once but now it works perfectly.

Link for anyone having similar issues:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zm1Z6gUOuHJpw

You need a 1.2 DP cable: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Cable-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DP1.2&qid=1558736978&s=gateway&sr=8-1

My booting issue is that it crashes the second before I reach my desktop, like it becomes completely unresponsive and the image is frozen. It crashes at exact the same point every single time.
I can give it a try though, will have find out how to make that work.

The displayport that was provided with the monitor is a 1.2 I think, pretty sure it is exactly this model: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Anything VESA certified will do: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Cable-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=pd_cp_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0098HVZBE&pd_rd_r=0a4c5ad5-c10a-11e8-a6af-01eb2f54162e&pd_rd_w=M4815&pd_rd_wg=pHqYN&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f5155f5-5438-4fc3-ab83-bf013cfc8883&pf_rd_r=K1BX8086PGWBJJBHKW09&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=K1BX8086PGWBJJBHKW09

you can get higher versions, but it isn't a requirement for your refresh rate and resolution

Anytime someone reported issues with their DP connection, the "Accell" brand of cable has been recommended most unanimously. It's what I went with (albeit the 3 meter version) and have never had any issues with any monitors it was used on:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Try this one. https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Cable-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE

or this one https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/, Accell does great cables.

This is the cable that's recommended more often because it's had a very good track record and supports everything. A lot of the time cheaper cables have issues above 6ft. Topic on PCMR Subreddit about Quality DP cables.

problem solved: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

The link is to an Accell 2m (6.6ft) display port 1.2 cable. Once I plugged it in all is well at 4k 60hz. I also bought a Cable Matters 3 ft. cable and it also worked. I had three DP cables here including the 6 foot cable supplied by Seiki! and none had worked. But obviously the answer is to get a high quality 1.2 cable to fix this issue.

HDMI cables only support up to 60Hz, only DVI and DP do 144Hz. I highly recommend DP's.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE
This is probably the best one you can buy right now.

That's a palliative. Get rid of that cable ASAP, the bastard is short circuiting your VGA & monitor.

Get a certified cable immediately to avoid further headache, you can find a list and further details here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3uvp02/a_holiday_reminder_on_quality_displayport_cables/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Accell is usually a good choice:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-1-2-VESA-Certified-DisplayPort-1920x1080/dp/B0098HVZBE

DP interface is digital. When using a high refresh rate monitor (120hz+), the monitor can flicker and blink while running at a high refresh rate (most common on desktop or web browser) due to a poor quality DP cable not being able to keep up with the signal. Manufacturers have been know to include lower quality DP cables with their monitors.

I have personally experienced this and fixed the issue by purchasing a quality “VESA certified” DP cable.

This is the one I purchased to fix the issue.

Accell UltraAV DisplayPort 1.2 Cable with Latches - DisplayPort 1.2, 4K UHD @60Hz, 1920x1080 @240Hz, 3D up to 3840x2160 @60Hz, Retail Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cQKOCbW6JSBKY

That being said, if you are not experiencing flickering issues, I would not worry about it.

DisplayPort actually certifies cables to be up to their standards. When I last purchased a DisplayPort cable, the Cable Matters cable was not on the list. This cable is on the list and comes in different lengths. It is more expensive, but you are guaranteed that it will function properly with your monitor and FreeSync.

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0098HVZBE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure you can get something cheaper but someone confirmed that it worked so I got it

Link to cable that fixed it for me is below. Go with 2M or less if possible. 3M is pushing it for high res.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

This one. Reviews stated they needed this cable to reach 100hz and it works to that effect on my x34.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Definitely worth trying a new cable. Also, for what it's worth, not all cables are equal - this is regarded as one of the better DisplayPort cables available in case you're interested:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine didn't, it only came with Power and Dual Link DVI.

I would recommend this one OP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

Yes, I've bought a new cable and it still doesn't work. /u/AMDRobert said it is a very good cable in a post he made a while ago so I don't think it is that. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0098HVZBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks ! Canceled the cablematters cable and ordered this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that was mentioned in the thread you linked .

Cheers

I'm not very well informed regarding cables, but I got this one because this brand name "Accell" kept coming up in A/V forums. So far so good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/

I just got one on Amazon and have the same monitor as you (got it on Saturday). It's 1.2, I don't think you can find one that's 1.2a. Crimson recognizes it and activated FreeSync: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Could you borrow a slimport cable, maybe? I think that would give you video. http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

Amazon.ca has had it all along, for cheaper than when the US one went on that giant price hike, available here.

The only legit Slimport I know of is this one. It's almost 3 times that of a MHL (since they don't work on our N4's) but there aren't too many manufacturers that make the Slimport. Trust me, i've looked around. Plus, it looks like Amazon restocked this model. It was sold out for awhile and people that had one, marked up the price to almost three to six times of the original.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370465301&sr=8-1&keywords=Slimport

Try a slim port adapter

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort®-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG

I actually think the Nexus 4 uses SlimPort instead of MHL. So something like this.

Maybe try a [slimport] (http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG) adapter? It should mirror the screen to anything with an HDMI input. As long as your digitizer works you should be able to interact with it, but I think you lose USB when it's plugged in.

This is what I found on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Yes and yes, however there's another usb port on the adapter that you can plug your charger into so the device can charge while playing.

My experience with my Nexus 4 is that it pretty much maintains it's current power level while I watch an HD movie (i think it actually goes up a very small amount).

Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374259586&sr=8-1&keywords=slimport+adapter

A few suggestions...

You can try installing an app called AirDroid through the Google Play Store online and accessing photos that way. Or you could try a slimport connector with a usb otg cable which allows you to hook into an HDTV and control your phone screen with a mouse. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381328205&sr=8-1&keywords=slimport

Not sure why it's so expensive now, but I got one from Amazon for the same exact thing during the launch of the Nexus 4 for $20

It's also used by the Nexus 4 and Nexus 7 2013, some people prefer it over MHL because it can display 4k and uses internal power of the device vs needing a remote powersource

Amazon.ca seems to have them for $40 CDN.

You need a slim port HDMI adapter, this one has been verified to work with the n4, but I am sure there are others.
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG?tag=notebookscom-20

Don't know if your local electronic store sells them but lots on Amazon or EBay.

Edit: obviously they are marking these up just a bit... I had a look at the price.. Yikes! Try eBay maybe!

The only one on the market is really the Analogix one. It goes in and out of stock on Amazon with varying prices. I got mine for USD $30.

I used this USB3 and this HDMI 2m extension cable, they work great on my Visor.

Rearrange the space as already suggested.


I used these and they worked perfectly

UGREEN 10373 USB Extension Lead... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P0ES0YE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UGREEN 10142 2 m HDMI HDMI Black... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


They do longer ones I only needed 2m for my setup

I am using This and This and they work fine.

I built a ceiling setup with these: Keychains, HDMI extension, USB extension. The cable can still twist from the rotation, so I use Cable Guardian to prevent it.

For 2 meters or less almost any decent cable will work, bigger than that you need active cables and hdmi repeater.

These are the ones I use and they work perfectly (6ft, 2m)

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i use These for the sensors and this usb and this Hdmi for the headset.. they work well for me.

I use this 6ft HDMI and 6ft USB. They work great.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got it hooked up and around at the back now so it avoids the GPU exhaust. I've had no probs at all since then!

I'm using these and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZQSCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the Ugreen hdmi extension and it's working well so far. I also use their USB extension.

I used these cables from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're both 6 feet. Works fine with my Odyssey

For USB I use Amazon Basics 3m Passive cable. For HDMI I use this. There are more cables on the wiki from this subreddit

I use this, works fine.

Hmm just buy this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE

It's what I use and have no issues with

For anyone lurking this is the HDMI cable I use as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A30FLE2

Bro do you even game? Missing these crucial components.

can't top these $15K cable reviews.

It even has free shipping!

Do you think this would get the job done?

Also you may enjoy the reviews on this guy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003CT08E4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=HCB5EVDQN3WM82BMCVDR

you have to use this cable diamond hdmi cable

$150 Cable? Please

Stupid one metre plebeian

Pfft... amateurs

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1409444289&sr=1-2

I'm surprised you mention the adapter when this component is clearly more vital !

and worse again

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IL3TZSQ&pd_rd_r=S76D5DPDC32PM9GK8B94&pd_rd_w=yL8ya&pd_rd_wg=SfkJr&psc=1&refRID=S76D5DPDC32PM9GK8B94

Okay, just making sure. All hdmi cables are pretty much the same as far as personal use goes. Unless something broken with the cable, it won't affect performance.

And this is the super crazy expensive HDMI cable on Amazon (I guess they felt that stretching it to 16m was worth the extra $15,000) : http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415383294&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi

So I ordered these two cables:

HDMI
and
USB

Turns out the 10 foot USB does not work on the Samsung Odyssey for me. I tried it in several USB ports and I keep getting the message to connect my headset. I tried it with a simple USB key and that worked.

Returning the 10 foot USB and getting the 6 foot instead.

The HDMI works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These two are the ones I got.

This 10' USB extension and this 10' HDMI extension have worked flawlessly for me with the same headset!

Darn. I picked this one up, coming in the mail tomorrow. People seem to have good luck with AmazonBasics stuff. If it doesn't work, I'll give your option a shot.

For the rift i use:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00WHZ8NDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems to work fine with 1080ti.
More comfort and less chance to damage the ports by mechanical stress.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.