Best headphone adapters according to redditors

We found 3,336 Reddit comments discussing the best headphone adapters. We ranked the 633 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Headphone Adapters:

u/[deleted] · 34 pointsr/LifeProTips

Travel protip: Buy one of these instead == http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M

Fits easier in your backpack, you can take them on planes, and people are a lot more friendly about sharing the only outlet in the terminal so you can charge your electronic things

ninja edit, I accidently two letters.

u/macbooklover91 · 18 pointsr/onebag

A lot depends on the style you're looking for. I'll also say that security in a bag is a myth. There are things to discourage certain behavior, but ultimately a bag should never be seen as a secure container. (after all it can always be cut)

What I chose.

I traveled for about a month in Europe staying in hostels. Even though it was only a month I could have traveled for about a year (adding only a tablet) with the bag/things I brought.

Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack - $150 (Discontinued)

[Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack

  • $160 (New Version)](https://smile.amazon.com/Osprey-Farpoint-40-Travel-Backpack/dp/B014EBM3KA/)

    I love this bag but it might not be the single best option for you. It's low profile, turns into a duffle bag (more about that later) and although it doesn't look like a school backpack, it doesn't standout like this either.

    The reason I love that it turns into a duffle bag is because theres a semi hidden velcro pocket in the bottom where the cover rolls into. This is a great place to sew or velcro a small zippered wallet or bag to store extra money or valuables. It's not secure as much as its hidden. This won't help you if they steal the whole bag, but it will help you if they just ransack the place and steal from the open compartments.


    Other Options

    There are a ton of other options. I suggest watching the VagaBrothers Video - How to Choose the BEST Travel BACKPACK | Pros & Cons Minimalist Backpack Review and Travel Tips: Packing Hacks, Tips & Essentials


    The F Stop bags look great, but are pretty pricy. Depending on what lenses you're bringing (18-55mm kit lens VS 70-200mm VR f2.8) it may or may not be worth it for size and configurability. I personally bought a Sony a6000 and left my big DSLR at home. That was actually a really good choice for the type of trip I did, but if I was going for a year (like you are) I understand needing the big camera. You might want to get camera/lens inserts like this (but not necessarily that one, I just clicked on the first one I saw on amazon) to store and protect those other lenses.

    Hope that helps.


    The following is copy and pasted from an email I sent to family friends traveling abroad. It gives links and ideas for things that help when traveling minimally.




    ----------

  • 2 Mini cologne bottles - Well worth it if you are doing carry on only, or if you like to bring more than one scent with you. Depending on how much you use I find that a bottle filled up lasts about 1.5-2 weeks if you are using 2-3 sprays a day. http://smile.amazon.com/MagnaKoys%C2%AE-Perfume-Cologne-Sprayers-Overcaps/dp/B00UKHLBEW

  • World power adapter - http://smile.amazon.com/elago%C2%AE-Tripshell-TRAVEL-ADAPTER-Built/dp/B005AF0C2G Awesome adapter. A lot nicer than the 50 mini adapters you have to piece together like legos.

  • Power strip - https://smile.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M I never used this. I wouldn't get it unless you knew you needed it. They are good ways to make friends at airports though, as plugs are always in high demand and few people will say no to letting you free up a plug or two.

  • Battery pack - (updated version) https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ OR https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9QVE4Q While there are cheaper and smaller ones, this is the perfect size and capacity if you are bringing a couple or more devices. This will charge a phone many times over. It's especially handy if you want to leave it charging in the hotel then bring it with you during the day after it's charged.

  • Compressed charcoal deodorizers - http://smile.amazon.com/Moso-Natural-Purifying-Deodorizer-Eliminator/dp/B0099K6OVQ Great to throw in shoes or bags that start to get smelly. Useful in hostels.

  • Microfiber towel - http://smile.amazon.com/Sunland-Microfiber-Compact-Sports-Towels/dp/B00MGGYZVG Very useful for hostels as most will charge you to use towels

  • Tripod - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00D76RNLS/ paired with a phone mount (https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Samsung-Smartphones-Adapter-Monopod/dp/B01LYN73TQ) this can be used to hold the phone on long flights. Really nice for watching movies on the plane or waiting for a train.

  • Roll up 1L water bottles - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BI9AM3C/ Great for airplanes (no longer need to buy water after TSA).

  • I packed all of my clothes into cubes and a flat packer. http://smile.amazon.com/Eagle-Creek-Pack-It-Starter-Set/dp/B00F9S84D8


    ----

    Security:

    Since I was traveling alone, and in hostels, security was a slightly bigger deal for me. I carried my passport on my person or locked in my hostel (many had lockers or metal lock boxes).

    At all times I had a photo copy of my passport and everything in my wallet, some local currency, and a print out of all the embassies in the area. (Attached to this email.) I printed this double sided and had multiple copies with me.
    I told my mom, "At any time I want to be able to have everything stolen, but still have a way back home.” My credit card will do cash transfers internationally and also includes a continuous travel insurance package.

    I would highly suggest making three copies of your passport and all credit cards and other ID you are taking. One lives on your person when your passport is stored elsewhere (hotel, for example), one lives in your luggage (preferably hidden/tucked away), and one stays with a trusted friend or family member that will be in the States for the duration of your trip. If anything happens they will be able to assist with proving your identity to the State Department, thus speeding the process along. I suggest keeping some cash tucked in your passport (along with that embassy list), your copy of the passport in the luggage, and then the copy of the passport and embassy list in your wallet. At this point you have three possibilities of things to grab to prove your identity/pay for a cab/tell you where to go.

    While this may seem a little overboard, I find it doesn't take that long to set up and helps greatly should anything bad happen. Also consider registering with the State Department. This helps them track Americans abroad should anything happen, and also gives you alerts, should anything happen. https://step.state.gov/step/



    ----


    Tech Tips

    I also used a service called Line2 to give me a US phone number to call from and receive calls to while I was away. I have T-Mobile that gives me included unlimited international data. As long as I had a 4g signal, I also had a phone I could make and receive calls on. Google Voice and Skype would also do this. Do be aware of how much international data costs. Wifi is easy to find, but I suggest using a VPN on your phone or laptop for any web surfing. And even with the VPN I would not suggest logging into any financial (bank, etc) while abroad unless you are on a trusted wifi network (aka, friends).

    For maps you can download parts of Google Maps by searching the city and clicking “Download." This should work on Android and iOS versions of Google Maps.

u/Kangaroo_Steak · 17 pointsr/audiophile

Careful with that one-piece 6.3mm > 3.5mm connector, the weight of the heavy 6.3mm jack is known to cause stress and break off at the 3.5mm. I'd recommend something like this

u/dendle_the_rip · 14 pointsr/milliondollarextreme

stock up on canned/dehydrated/dry food (cereal/rice/ramen/peanutbutter/raisins/etc) -- don't neglect canned veggies you'd be amazed how quickly you'll start craving them -- stock up on R E A L money, stock up on guns and especially ammo (barter purposes). 10-20 gallons of water in GOOD long-term water storage containers is also a great idea. a lightweight portable water filter straw like this could also prove invaluable, especially if you have to hit the woods. make sure you have some fuel for cooking those noodies -- you can get a dirt-cheap backpacking stove for five bux on amazon, fresh out of chinese slave hands, then buy 4-5 canisters of this stuff (will run you about 5-6 bucks per can at shart-your-pants-mart). will last a single person months if you're only cooking dinner. might consider storing some gasoline in case you need to gtfo quick and the looters already hit quik-trip, might consider burying a portion of your R E A L money. hoarding a bit of emergency CASH is also a must; it ain't gonna become completely worthless in an hour and in non-financial collapse scenarios you'll need it.

a tent is GREAT to have, the woods will be safer than the city in a true just-f-my-country-up-fam situation. make sure you got flashlights, extra batteries, SOME form of protection if for whatever reason you can't get guns&ammo -- pepper spray, tazers, baseball bats, blahblah. if you're blind make sure you have an extra pair of glasses that you can see somewhat-clearly out of, cause if your original pair gets busted you are completely and utterly BONED. make sure you have warm clothing, winter clothing, even if you're in florida; if you gotta bail you don't know where you'll have to bail to.

oh yeah, and TP. it's always handy.

by the way, normies will say this is all super-paranoid stuff and not worth the hassle, but none of this stuff takes up much room, it's easy to get, and it will be utterly priceless if things go south, even if just locally, as you're experiencing now. the people who don't prepare at all will be powerless in such a situation, and honestly, if they're adults, probably shouldn't be pitied. one area the mormons have it right actually; they prepare and don't get complacent.

to quote the fake mad-eye moody, "constant vigilance"

u/shyne151 · 13 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Pricey, but I put one of these on some Monoprice cans(before I became an audio snob and got some sennheisers and audio-technicas) I had a few years ago:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415810678&sr=8-2&keywords=headphone+pad

Made them 10x more comfortable. My girlfriend still uses the headphones, even though she thinks she looks "nerdy" with them on.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 12 pointsr/networking

I'm gonna pop /u/the-packet-thrower 's bubble here.

I had an initial reaction to your request to post links to all kinds of things I would want in such a case. But the problem is very similar to suggesting what laptop backpack you should buy.

The purchasing decision depends heavily on a wide array of very personalized requirements & desires.

You've given us practically nothing to work with, so any suggestion can be both right and wrong at the same time.

We don't know if you need to enter highly secured data center facilities, such that all your shit will be x-rayed or visually searched.
We don't know if you need power tools or spare parts.
We don't know if you do small office installs, and need cable pulling & terminating kits, drywall saws and boxes.

All we know if you need a big box with wheels that can hold some patch cords and screws.

I helped design & build an entire data center in Ireland using only this Milwaukee screwdriver. How? Easy. I paid for professional installation of the cabinets, UPS, PDUs and CRAC units.

But in your case it sounds like instead of paying contractors to do certain activities, you do them yourself.
Unless we know what those activities are, it's kind of hard to suggest a case or sets of tools or components, since we don't know what activities you need to perform on site.

You say you don't want to build this kit out by hand, but I honestly can't see any other way. Each decision is a personal choice.

  • Quality v/s Cost
  • Weight v/s Durability
  • Multi-purpose v/s Task-specific
  • Warranty v/s Disposability

    -----

    So, here is what I'll do instead of trying to suggest everything you might possible put into a magic box.
    Here are five or six products that you might not have seen to consider, or products that I believe I would want on a job site.

  1. Milwaukee Ultimate Jobsite Backpack
  • Carrying around a toolbox sucks. Putting all that stuff on your back? Yeah that's way more convenient.
  • Again, I'm not sure just what you need to carry...
  1. Milwaukee 12v Cordless Drill
  • I like the smaller 12v form factor as I find it less fatiguing pushing screws into racks.
  • I don't drill holes, just rack screws. So why buy more power & weight?
  1. Milwaukee PACKOUT Rolling Toolbox
  • I don't own one of these, but I like what I see a lot.
  • It's modular, and you can pick & choose what size boxes you add to your stack.
  • YouTube
  1. C14 to 2 x NEMA5-15 Outlet adapter
  • I work in data centers sometimes that do not have any 120v outlets, just C13/14 220v PDU outlets.
  • That adapter will let you plug in your dial-voltage laptop brick so you can get a charge.
  • Don't plug in anything that isn't dual-voltage though.
  1. Monster Power Outlets 2 Go
  • Less of a job site item, and more of a laptop bag item...
  • I hate fighting for outlets in an airport.
  • I carry a large USB power bank, but if I need to charge my laptop, this has gotten me out of a jam from time to time.


    I hope this was helpful...
u/lono10c · 11 pointsr/guitars

If his practice amp has a headphone jack, maybe this is all you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/

u/qazasxz · 11 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

I use the Diztronic Revision 3 with the extended battery and it fits perfectly.

u/AlexWhit92 · 11 pointsr/audioengineering
u/Jonners_90 · 11 pointsr/headphones

I'm in Canada, btw.

I have a basic SMSL dac/amp to use with my PS4 through optical and have enjoyed my 598s + Modmic 5 for gaming for some time now (almost 2 years). Very light and comfortable. However I can't always use open back because the house can get noisy with a baby niece and nephew. I've used a few Hyper X headsets before (still own the original Clouds, sold my Alphas) but was getting bored.

I enjoy the Sennheiser sound so I was looking for something similar to the 598s, but closed . Along came the Cs. They're a tad expensive up here - $180 CAD + 13% tax on Amazon... But I found someone on Kijiji selling theirs for 90 bucks! They were in good condition too. Box was a little beat up, but both cords were intact (1/4 was still wrapped). Here's a comparison from a gaming perspective in CoD WW II:

598s have this smooth sound that's easy to like. Imaging is excellent and soundstage is wide enough to make your head turn around to see where stuff is coming from sometimes.

Gunshots pierce the environment to immerse you without sounding shrill or harsh and the tail end of explosion sound effects with the shrapnel and dirt flying around is very satisfying.

The mids of course are forward, people usually call this "warm", don't they? Sorry I'm not an expert audiophile. Vocal callouts are lively, the rumble of tanks is clear, reload sounds are detailed and very "metallic", the way they should be.

The bass is a bit light. It's there, but I know Sennheiser cans don't emphasize it. Explosions and ordnance are present, but a little more low end wouldn't hurt. I wanna feel like I'm there, not far away from the action.

The Cs are essentially exactly what they sound like... Closed 598s.

  • Treble sounds similar and has enough detail, just not quite as perfected as the originals.

  • Mids sound a little more hollow, but just barely. It's not terrible but I expected this.

  • Bass is improved. Punchier and tighter. This I enjoy. :)

  • just the right clamping pressure, soft headband, and the unique rubbery cloth earcup material = the most comfortable, best sound isolation closed headphone I've ever tried. Seriously. Beats both the Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros and the Hyper X Alphas WITH HM5 pads on them. They are wonderful.

    Here is something to note: the standard 4 foot 3.5mm cable is TRRS and includes a cheap crappy mic on it. Amps usually don't read TRRS plugs very well. When I first tried that cord with 1/4 inch adapter, it sounded like absolute trash! Dollarama earbuds would give it competition.

    I plugged in the 10 ft straight 1/4 inch cord from my SEs into the Cs and it fixed the issue. Sounds great now! So, if you plan on using these, don't use the TRRS cable in your amp or PC motherboard. You'll have to get a y splitter like this.

    https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Smartphone-Computer/dp/B00Y4663GG

    I highly recommend these on sale or used. Not $180 CAD.

    TLDR: Cs are basically exactly what you expect, a closed off 598. Different headband and earcups make for a comfortable fit and clamp. Be wary of the TRRS cord in your amps. Worth it on sale or used.

u/LaGrrrande · 10 pointsr/geek

That's why I carry around one of these in my bag. Never mind that it's made by monster, it's incredibly handy and makes you a big hit at airports, too. I'd definitely recommend putting some black electrical tape over the LED on the plug as it can make it hard to sleep if you're using it at a hotel. They used to make one with 4 outlets, but I couldn't find it =(

Edit: Here it is

u/downquark5 · 10 pointsr/weightroom

You are a newbie. Get a cage so you can have adjustable safeties.

This is the rack that I own. http://amzn.com/B004UMM4QC

I have done 400+lb rack pulls on it for reps. I have done 185lb overhead press on it. I have squatted and failed 395lbs on it. It is a good rack and it is cheap.

u/kh2linxchaos · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you don't mind spending more money on different parts for these headphones, these earpad and headband replacements are fantastic.

u/erethangbagel · 9 pointsr/Android

Mine turns on and connects to my phone automatically every time I turn on the car. I have this one.

u/ShadowX22 · 9 pointsr/DotA2

While people are recommending headsets that come with the mic. I'm going to recommend something else. Get a high quality set of over the ear headphones. I'm talking something like the Audio Technica ATH-M50S, Audio Technica ATH-AD700, Sennheiser HD555/595 (The 595's are very similar to the 555's but sound better, there are links around that you can mod your 555's to become 595's), or Sennheiser HD380 Pro. And then attach a Zalman Mic to it.

I have a pair of HD595's and absolutely love them, I can wear them all day and not feel it. They are built like tanks and have amazing sound quality. With my Zalman mic, I not only have a headset that has much higher sound quality than any gaming headset, but I can also use it for VOIP.

I used to have a pair of Creative Fatal1ty MKii, but after picking up my Sennheiser's I can't go back to them. The comfort and sound quality is literally night and day.

Although slightly out of your price range, the two companies make extremely high quality audio equipment. If you look through their offerings you'll definitely find a pair of headphones that will fit your budget. If you watch Amazon you can find that they cut prices dramatically from time to time, I picked up my 595's for around $150, and now they're almost $250.

u/nope_nic_tesla · 9 pointsr/FoodPorn

If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.

I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.

u/stabsthedrama · 8 pointsr/Frugal

No, but a $4 compact camping stove off amazon and a $5 canister from the store sure is.

Seriously though...these things are invaluable for camping... last time camping I heated up some leftover Caribbean jerked pork, some soup, some coffee in the mornings... and its the size of a deck of cards pretty much, and the canisters are pretty small too.

u/phobos2deimos · 8 pointsr/backpacking

I've got a ton of budget best bang for the buck gear, but one place you absolutely should not skimp on is socks. Buy 2-3 pair of SmartWool Expedition weight socks. It's like wearing slippers inside your boots.
Socks
Here's some more of the cheap (mostly) gear that I purchased and am still happy with. This includes some revisions I've made after a somewhat miserable trip to Yosemite. I am a freak for reading reviews and digging for the best price.
$8 Stove
$8 Mug
$16 underwear... okay, this is almost as important as socks!
$29 Solar charger, or DIY
$85 Water filter, didn't want to skimp here although water tabs are doable
$9 550 paracord
$14 multitool - use a small cheap knife to 'cut' costs
$28 titanium Anodized Aluminum pot
$9 Tarp Couldn't find the link, but it's at WalMart in their camping section, by Outdoor Products.
$9 titanium spork
$45 hammock - you can get cheaper on campmor, but this one caught my eye at REI
$16 hammock suspension - you can get cheaper by DIY
$14 Compass
Sierra Trading Post has Comfortrel longjohns for $17/top or bottom - feels cheap, but effective.
$24 15 degree mummy bag IMO the next best thing for the money is The Cat's Meow at ~$90.
$22 tent - small, decent weight, cheap, hard to find. Not sure if I trust in rain, but worked great for five days of decent weather and 30 degree nights. Dumped this for the hammock setup due to weight and size. (but it's not that heavy or big)


In addition, I'll be switching to the $45 54litre pack from Costco.
GoLite has some crazy cheap light backpacks, but they don't seem to do well for loads heavier than ~25 pounds, which you probably won't hit on a budget.
$10 tab stove - haven't used, gonna try this out soon

Wal Mart has been seriously stepping up their backpacking game in the last year or so. Take a look their. A lot of the products are decent quality at crazy good prices.
Thread

u/qqqsimmons · 8 pointsr/weightroom
u/guga31bb · 8 pointsr/Fitness
  • Cage -- $360 shipped

  • 2 horse stall mats -- $80 in total

  • Bench -- $10 from Craigslist

  • Weights -- about $.60 per lb from Craigslist

  • Texas Power Bar -- almost $300 shipped (I splurged on this but it's awesome)

    Big initial investment but totally worth it. Working out at home is amazing.
u/QuipA · 8 pointsr/headphones

no differences in sound quality. 6,3mm jacks are used in professional settings because they are a lot sturdier than their little 3,5mm siblings.

You can only plug them into your PC if you use a 6,3mm to 3,5mm adapter.

u/Fresh-Mango · 7 pointsr/dogs

Good advice. To add to that, if you prefer sound to subtitles, you could use headphones with a long extension cord like this or this. There are longer ones out there depending on the distance from your TV to couch, just search for "3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female headphone extension cord". If there are two people, you can use a splitter adapter like this. You may also check Monoprice for additional options that are sometimes of the same (or higher) quality at a cheaper price than those available at big box stores or other online retailers.

u/fence-sitter · 7 pointsr/macsetups

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/

https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/

u/killfire72 · 6 pointsr/headphones
u/rabidfurby · 6 pointsr/Seattle

Bose isn't bad, but it's very overpriced for the quality you get.

I swear by the Sennheiser HD 380s that I keep at work. The ear cups go around your ear rather than on top of it, which means they do a better job of blocking out sound and are much more comfortable for long periods of time. Even though it's pricey ($150), it's still half the price of Bose.

The Beyerdynamic DT770 is also a good option. I have DT990s at home but you wouldn't want open headphones in an office environment - it'd let too much office noise in, and your coworkers will hate you because your music will leak out. You want the 32 ohm version of these unless you also want to buy a headphone amp like this one.

u/Toof · 6 pointsr/backpacking

I'd personally recommend this stove honestly. It comes it really handy and is quick to light.

I used a penny stove for awhile, and the damned thing is a bitch to light in the cold, you know, exactly when you'd want it the most.

u/Boom_87 · 6 pointsr/camping

I have owned an msr pocket stove for a while and loved it. When it went missing I spent a season without it because I was too stubborn to buy a piece of gear I just had to find. Well next season I decided to just do a ton of research and see if there was anything that was being sold for a fraction of the price but was still popular. That's when I found this. Do yourself a favor and start skimming through the reviews. There's a lot of them. There are things about it that could be better but hey for under 6$ I have used the shit out of this thing and have been thoroughly pleased.

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_iRvRwb778K57W

u/HardontheBeav · 6 pointsr/BDSMcommunity

I have one of these. It cost about 1k.

Squat/power rack: very versatile. you can tie up a sub in a number of different ways. mine has a pull up bar built in. it holds up very well to both lifting and kink use. you do NOT need a 1000 dollar power rack. this is the one i have: https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465612231&sr=1-3&keywords=power+rack

Bench: doubles as a bondage bench just fine

barbell/weights etc.: this is the bulk of the expense. I use these for powerlifting, not necessarily for kink.

deadlift platform: this is good for both deadlifts AND if you build your own its pretty cheap. with high quality wood it is fine for bare feet.

boxing bag: I have a heavy bag (100lbs) bolted into the ceiling. i reinforced the attic with 2x4 and some 4x4s. it will easily work for suspension or swing with the extra support.



u/immarked · 6 pointsr/Fitness

Home gym guy here!

I went to a regular gym for years and after awhile I realized I can buy a gym for what I pay to go there.

I picked this up from Amazon: cage At the time it was $199.

I totally agree with anyone who can get a cage of craigslist, but I live in bum fuck nowhere and I may be the only person up here with a cage.

From Craigslist, I managed to buy a bunch of Olympic weights, by buying bench presses from people. Olympic weights sell for $120-$200 for a 300lb set. But from some reason I can get a bench with the same set for $75, and it has the Olympic bar.

So I pick-up up 3 of those, I had to drive about an hour each way to get them, but I figured it was worth it. This left me with 3 benches 1 for regular one of incline and one for bells. 3 bars one for the cage and 2 for the benches. Along with 900 lbs in weight.

I have 2 Olympic dumbbell handles that I use, but they kinda suck so I'm keeping my eyes peeled for some regular ones, but I need 70-90 lbs and they are rare.

All in all I spent about $400 including gas.

I have a bunch of boxing gear in my basement as well but that from my younger days, I have noticed you can get a full gym worth good boxing gear for under $200 as well. I still keep my roadwork up for cardio, that's free.

I've had my home gym for 3 months now, my biggest concern was if I would slack, but I have managed to add 20lbs to my bench 30 to my dead and 40 to my squat, which to me, just an average dude, was very impressive.

u/KNXLV · 6 pointsr/Fitness

This is a squat rack. This is a power rack

u/BGumbel · 6 pointsr/Weakpots

This "only" supports 800 lbs.

This will good enough until you decide on Texas vs Ohio power bar I don't think it has center knurling, but I'm sure you could find a similar one with it for the same money.

This only supports 300 lbs, but you can always rebuild the framing out of 4x4 wooden posts. I can tell you it doesn't collapse even when you have around 500 lbs on it.

Then you just need weights, Craigslist, or if you want new, walmart has them for a little less than 1$ a lb. Make sure your 45's are the right size, or you'll end up doing deficit deadlifts.

u/secondandsebring · 6 pointsr/xxfitness

Something like this might be a better option. You want something sturdy, adjustable, and that has safeties if you're working without a spotter. It's a bit more expensive, but you could use a rack like this for other SS lifts like BP and OHP, not just squats.

For the one that you linked to, u/kalisaurus mentioned that hers is "a bit wobbly", which would make me nervous to use when lifting heavy.

u/hhkk47 · 6 pointsr/headphones

I suggest getting a different 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, as the one that comes with the HD599 tends to put a lot of stress on the 3.5mm jack, as you may already have noticed. Something like this adapter from Sennheiser will work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

The Grado adapter should work fine as well and is cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO

And there are other adapters like this one for Hosa which are cheaper still:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/

Or just use the shorter cable with a 3.5mm connector that comes with the HD599 if you can. Anyway, that's a great setup to get started on the hobby. Now you can feel free to never visit this sub again to save yourself some (ok, probably a lot of) money.

u/i91809 · 6 pointsr/headphones

Don't use the included 3.5mm adapter if you can help it, it will put a ton of strain on your headphone jack. If anything, use something like this :)

u/Mark_is_on_his_droid · 6 pointsr/AdviceAnimals
u/brrrrip · 6 pointsr/INEEEEDIT

Can confirm.

I have a set of hyper x cloud ii headphones.
They are pretty awesome.

One note: they have a 4 contact single plug. (integrated audio and microphone)
This works fine for most phones, consoles, and laptops with a single audio jack.
My desktop pc has separate audio jacks for audio and mic though.

I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/
Splits the single plug to two. Does a great job.

u/Jokuhemmi · 6 pointsr/headphones

You need a splitter if your pc has separate connectors for audio and mic.

https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

u/Tater_Tot_Casanova · 6 pointsr/xboxone

Yes

This is the one I use and have had no issues

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_1aHWBbNN35MJA

u/TheACT24 · 6 pointsr/PS4

All you need is one of these combiners and a mic, such as a mini condenser mic, that plugs in with 3.5mm jack. Then you can plug the adapter into the controller or you can even go a step further and use a USB adapter to a port on the PS4 like I do.

u/Sebetter · 5 pointsr/headphones

At 32 ohms it shouldn’t be too tough to have your PS4 push out the power for the headphones.

You probably don’t need to use an external sound card and could just use the controller. I’ve done that with my sennheiser HD598 (50 ohms). If you need a microphone and headphone splitter cable this is the one that I use with a zalman in-line microphone. Of course, with the SHP 9500 you have the benefit of a 3.5mm connection so you could just get a V-Moda BoomPro and plug that directly into the controller.

Sorry this may not be the solution you’re looking for but it is cheaper than buying a new soundcard🙈

u/porkyminch · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Alright so I looked into it a bit and from what I can tell the Cochlear Mini Microphone 2+ has an input that you could use for this or any other devices with a 3.5 mm headphone jack. That's probably the best way to go about it if you have one.

If not, you could probably use a lightning-to-3.5mm adapter, then split the 3.5mm into input and output with a cable like this. Then you could connect an aux cable from the Switch to the microphone side of the splitter. Garageband has a voice recorder (comes preinstalled) and you can set it to "monitor" to output it to headphones or, hopefully, your cochlear inplant.

Roundabout way of doing things, but that should work.

u/ItsMeSlinky · 5 pointsr/xboxone

First, I agree: don't go wireless. Just get a recent controller with the 3.5mm jack built in.

Second, "console" headsets are almost always 50% more expensive than PC equivalents, and the sound quality is almost always 50% worse. Not saying that gaming headsets need to be "audiophile" grade (they don't), but if you're going to charge $100+ for a gaming headset, it had better sound like a $100 pair of headphones, not a $20 pair with lots of cool gaming logos.

Personally, I just bought this adapter off Amazon and it lets you use any PC gaming headset with the Xbox. Hooked it up to my Logitech $40 headset and couldn't be happier.

u/paradigm86 · 5 pointsr/CampingGear
u/azza10 · 5 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

Not sure what stops people linking from mobile http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Revision-Protector-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0

Edit: linked from mobile

u/thastig · 5 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

TPU Diztronic v3.

Sleek, sexy, strong, light. buy it!

/Thread

u/PBMM2 · 5 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

This exact one. Very good case.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 5 pointsr/headphones

scrape the worn padding off and put a replacement [beyerdynamic headband pad] (http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A) over it. It may be a tight fit though because the metal internal arch of the M50 is wider than the DT770/880/990

u/covertash · 5 pointsr/headphones

Sennheiser makes a really nice one, which used to come in a bundle that I bought with an HD650 cable, but looks like you have to buy it separately now:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

Of course, there are much cheaper versions than the above, but hopefully you get the picture.

u/Weldeon · 5 pointsr/edmproduction

the 2i2 has a stereo 1/4 inch headphone output, so a 3.5mm to 1/4 inch converter should do what you need, here's one I found on Amazon.

u/no_4 · 5 pointsr/funny

OP's phrasing is a bit weird, but the one they linked is extremely compact for having four, widely spaced, outlets.

I mean, it's just a fucking power strip - but that's an exceptionally good one for travel.

Edit: 1,038 reviews and 4.7/5 rating on Amazon. For travel, it actually has advantages over a run of the mill thingy you'd pick up at WalMart or wherever.

u/Armsc · 5 pointsr/hometheater

Here ya go VIZIO S4251w-B4 for $240. 5.1 sound with wireless rear speakers and sub. Now just add in an optical cable and you're done.

Listen I know soundbar are forbidden but this the OP really gonna put an AVR on the mantle...I'm really thinking not. With that budget and location being what it is I just don't think anything else is really going to work. I have no idea how this set sounds but I'm assuming since it's Vizio's premiere product it will be ok.

u/000040000 · 5 pointsr/gadgets

I didn't realize I was obliged to provide a suggestion. Here you go:

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO

Audio-Technica ATH-ANC7B

u/b4z00k4 · 5 pointsr/cigars

Exactly this. It turns the cooler on and off based on the temperature inside and the parameters you set. Johnson Controls makes a really nice digital ETC

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_yNiotb040W2XR

u/neontropics · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

You need a mixer to connect your gear to, and then you just connect speakers or headphones to the mixer. I have this mixer for my Volcas and small gear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KGYAYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408515182&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

To get a stereo sound from it you need this $3 adapter as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DBTAZ4/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

You will then also need at least three 3.5mm stereo male to 3.5mm stereo male cables, as well as 3-5 of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408515974&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40

u/rishathra · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

I bring this in my travel kit. Compact and perfect for hotels or airports.

u/snuffleupagus35 · 4 pointsr/gadgets

Watch Craigslist for a decent 5.1 system and a receiver.
I found a Denon AVR-1804 and a Boston Acoustic 5.1 System for 225 total on Craigslist.
the digital audio cable you are looking for is this one

does your PC have digital audio out as well? it may be worth getting a card with that because that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to have speakers hooked up to a TV, PS3 and your PC with digital audio from PC -> receiver, PS3 -> receiver, and receiver -> TV.
Im pretty sure that some of the higher end logitech speakers have a digital out as well. these appear to though it is hard to tell

u/strategicdeceiver · 4 pointsr/audiophile

$600 The 2.1 package

$400 HK-3940 Receiver

$31.50 Wire

$5.50 Optical cable


This is a good system, you should be able to get it up north without any problems. Note that the HK3490 can usually be found for less, also.. you should be able to use any dvd player you have laying around as a source.

u/II_F0XH0UND_II · 4 pointsr/xboxone

A potential solution is to purchase longer USB mini and TOSlink cables so that you can move the MixamPro closer to you.

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A Male to Mini B Cable

AmazonBasics Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable

I use AmazonBasics for a lot of my cord solutions. The only caveat is that you're going to need an adapter to convert one end of the Toslink into a mini because the Mixamp PRO uses a mini if I'm correct. You could also always buy a ready made mini Toslink cable. I use Cables2Go for all of my networking needs, but haven't used any of their Toslinks. Link below.

Cables To Go Velocity Toslink-to-Optical Mini Plug Digital Cable

Edit: Downvote for a potential solution? :/

u/SingedFlings · 4 pointsr/headphones
u/Bottomonium · 4 pointsr/ZeosReviews

Hi Zeos,

Which combination would you recommend?

Headphones:

u/hotstargirl · 4 pointsr/AppalachianTrail

For what RedDawn couldn't answer, there is cell reception on pretty much all the trail in NJ.

I think this is the stove that is the $7 one off Amazon. I put it on here because it's actually the stove I have and has proven to be reliable.

Check gear lists to see if there's anything you think you would want listed.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/heapspray · 4 pointsr/Fitness

how much do you pay per month? Make it about ROI for the gym owner. Tell him you will leave if he doesn't get a squat rack and he will be out the 200 dollars per year that he earns from your membership. A power rack on amazon.com costs only 250 dollars. Tell him you will sign a contract for 1 year if he puts in a power rack

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_2?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1412361691&sr=1-2&keywords=power+rack

u/funnye · 4 pointsr/headphones

Congrats :) btw you should replace that 6.3 to 3.5 adapter exchange with something like that http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/

Edit: you will find cheaper. But so you get a picture. It causes less stress to the MacBook.

u/chancegold · 4 pointsr/technology

I got one of these about a year ago. $30 bucks.

I wouldn't go back for the world. Being instantly connected as soon as you turn your car on and just throwing the phone up there or grabbing it when you egress is the most convenient thing in the world.

Particularly if you are in and out of the car quite a bit during the day as I am.

u/jjhhgg100123 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You need something like this. Just make sure you don't get anything cheap, otherwise it might affect sound quality.

u/punikun · 4 pointsr/PS4

Just as a heads up, you can plug and use any headset into the ps4 controller as long as you get a 4 pole jack plug like this http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457793178&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+audio+adapter


No need to spend 100 bucks on the sony exclusive one, unless you REALLY want it.

I also don't think it's really necessary when you don't play much multiplayer with friends but good headphones really enhance the exprience when playing horror games or generally games with thick atmosphere. A good sound system would probably still be better but I don't know your setup.

u/_Kai · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

The "dongle" is a USB sound card that seems to accept a 3.5mm 4-pole style cable.

If you have a headset with two separate input (mic) and output (speaker) cables, then you need a Y-Splitter.

However, if the dongle accepts two separate cables, then just plug them in directly, or use this Y-Splitter to separate one cable into two.

u/Pole420 · 4 pointsr/phish

They make little 3.5mm Y Splitters that y'all can use together from the same device. My wife and I do that to watch the same movie from the iPad when we travel.

u/ATLBuckeye · 4 pointsr/BF1AdvancedTactics

> Unfortunately, the main issue (unless there's a fix I don't know about) is that I can't use the microphone due to the way the connectors on the jack are set up or something like that.

Try this!

u/SigmaTheDJ · 4 pointsr/xboxone

You can buy an adapter that will let you do that with any wired headset that's compatible with the Xbox One. For example: -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Microphone-Headphones/dp/B00Y4663GG/

That might be a bit short, but that's the sort of thing you need.

u/smoothoperander · 4 pointsr/PS4

Hey man I was in your shoes not too long ago. I use this adapter for my DS4 along with Sony studio headphones and a ModMic. The ModMic is your secret ingredient. It's a separate, high-quality audio device that allows you to use whatever headphones you like, eliminating the need to balance quality with usability.

u/oddsnsodds · 4 pointsr/audiophile

A laptop with one jack almost invariably has a headset jack just like a phone's.

You should be able to use a standard headset splitter:

https://smile.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/

u/BlizzardCanyon · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Sennheiser 598's with Antlion modmic. Amazing pair of headphones with a detachable mic to avoid strange looks in public. You will need this splitter as well!

u/bubonicplaque · 3 pointsr/headphones

Grab a mod mic and one of theesse and you should be good to go https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/hot_pepper_is_hot · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Link 1. Link 2. Don't go to this link.

edit: I don't know what either of you are talking about, but I am going to make a guess. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/

u/CatManDew13 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

There's a specific splitter you can get, lemme try and find it, that separates the mic inline and headphone. Allowing you to use a modmic.

Edit: it's a Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2UFQzbBZE7E05

u/kodiak117 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

You could use a y cable and plug in whatever you want - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/True_Patrician · 3 pointsr/PS4

If you want to hear footsteps get the Game One*, they're open backed so you get a better soundstage which is exactly what you need for positioning footsteps.

From what I read make sure you get the 50 Ohm version as the 150 Ohm version you wouldn't be able to drive very well via the controller, but all new versions are the 50 Ohm so you should be fine. I'm not sure how the cable is but if it's a split microphone and headphone jack (which I assume it is seeing as this is in the frequently bought together thing) you'll need to get this: http://amzn.com/B00IM36VU0

* thanks for the correction /u/jtredd

u/Why_is_this_so · 3 pointsr/headphones

Why not just go >Lightning to 3.5mm
into > 3.5mm splitter into > male to male 3.5mm to your recorder, with the other end of the splitter going to your headphones?

u/Curaidh · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Can't you get an audio splitter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Compatible-Smartphones-Gold-plated-Black/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
Then both you and your brother could be wearing headphones (using only one ear to hear each other).

u/Tehl · 3 pointsr/Guildwars2

I use an audio splitter with a stereo to mono adaptor on one side of the split, like this.

If I'm doing something by myself, I plug the headphones into the clear line and use both channels. If I'm gaming with my partner, who's sitting in the same room, I plug into the mono adaptor and just use one earpiece, so that we can talk at the same time.

If you only ever use the headphones for mono content (I guess you use speakers for videos etc), you could skip the splitter and just use the mono adaptor directly in line on your headphone cable.

u/ocinn · 3 pointsr/audiojerk

TBH just use the Beetz microphone built into the cable. It was tuned by Drey for best base.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N03ZYUU/ just plug beetz into this, plug the headphone one into cassette player. Plug microphone one into laptop (HP Laptop with Beetz audio) and record.

u/arcanis_hots · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You might be aware of this already, but have you looked into TRRS? The headphones look like TRRS (mic and stereo in one plug) and your old case might have a TRRS socket, but the MSI motherboard looks like the standard 7.1 socket, meaning that you'd probably have to get a splitter like this.

Also, looks like the headphones come with a separate TRS cable, which might mean it only carries audio.

u/randomguy113377 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Your question is a little bit hard to understand without Information that you did not provide. But my mind reading skills have improved over the last few months, so here is your solution:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8L5QAbHMQ3MAW

;)

u/Kirbachu · 3 pointsr/gigantic

Do your headphones have a separate cord for the mic or are they both in the same one? If there's only one then you're probably going to have to get a splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG

u/Wholegrainey · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes. I use this one

u/fureddit1 · 3 pointsr/lgv20

Although I haven't used a mic for recording voice, I use a measurement mic and an RTA app on my phone for work.

I use to be able to use a mic/headphone splitter, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=7GITDJG042NF&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter&qid=1567198293&s=gateway&sprefix=mic+headpho%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-3

But after the Oreo update, the splitter stopped working.

Luckily, I was able to use this USB-C audio adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSC/dp/B071HJ98Q6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+audio+adapter+sabrent&qid=1567198535&s=gateway&sr=8-3

And the mic jack works for my purposes although I notice a some noise at around 15khz that wasn't there when I was able to use the mic/headphone splitter so I don't know if it would get picked up by a recorder.

Btw, if you want to get a USB-C adapter, get the one I linked to. I bought a similar one from Cable Matters as a backup but it wouldn't work on my phone.

u/Erickson117 · 3 pointsr/xbox

I actually do this myself. All you need to do is buy a 3.5mm splitter that has 3 stripes on the male side to make sure it works with microphones.
The one in the link it's the same model I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1538919538&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3.5mm+splitter

u/keanex · 3 pointsr/headphones

So what you're really asking for is a headset with a TRRS cable. Otherwise you can just use a TRRS adapter. Boom. Plug the 3.5mm mic into the mic slot, headphones into the other, and then that device into the PS4 controller.

u/smithalec2016 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Headset Splitter Cable for PC 3.5mm Jack Headphones Adapter Convertors for PC 3.5mm Female with Headphone/Microphone transform to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male for Computer Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LegXCbD2GBAS4

u/NattyMojo · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Seperate mic and headphone ports. You need a splitter

Edit: heres the one I use, MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/take_a_hike_pal · 3 pointsr/backpacking

I like getting the small things as gifts. Things I misplace or might not grab myself.

Gerber Dime Multi-Tool, Black [30-000469] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pvcBxb58D4MMB

Aimkon iTP A3 EOS Max 130 Lumen LED Flashlight Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BM5GQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-vcBxb144A2CF

Frogg Toggs The Original Chilly Pad Cooling Towel, Ice White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKCUSMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DwcBxb22YD8AD

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pxcBxbQZ4XD4G

NEW Bottle Clip Strap With Compass Camping Hiking Carabiner Water Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3YOLDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pycBxbYD4T2JS

BINGONE Nylon 4-in-1 Drawstring Bags / Ditty Bag / Cord Bag Home Storage Travel Use 4 Different Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VM4HR6S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dzcBxbMF0HKZ8

WindFire® Mini Zoomable 3 Modes UV-Ultraviolet Led Blacklight Flashlight AA/14500 Rechargeable Battery Zoom UV Ultraviolet Blacklight Flashlight Torch with Features Money Detector, Leak detector and Cat-Dog-Pet Urine Detector (Battery not included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S4CFB4G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KzcBxbEKNHQTQ

iPerb® Aluminum Alloy Tri-cone Shaped Tent Stakes Pegs 15g Each-Pack of 14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LD2TIUM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pAcBxbKVMRABT

Bluecell 16Pcs Red Color Aluminum Guyline Cord Adjuster for Tent Camping Hiking Backpacking Picnic Shelter Shade Canopy Outdoor Activity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUDFMI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NAcBxb0GS1V7V

Nite Ize Reflective Nylon Cord, Woven for High Strength, 50 Feet, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9AcBxbDAJPW6D

Nite Ize KRG-03-11 S-Biner Key Ring, Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHWE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NEcBxb41K6YTE

Stove, light, knife, cord, stakes, tensioners, blacklight for scorpion spotting for fun, water bottle clip, kee cool wet towel, ditty bags, micro s-biners. For mostly under 10 bucks, few under 20.

Pick some. That flashlight rocks my socks, but I have all of these things.

u/totallyshould · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

Ok, it got kind of late and not everything is available yet, so in lieu of the photo, here's a full list:

Bike stuff:

  • Extra tube, patch kit, tire levers, compact hand pump

  • Chain tool

  • Pedal wrench (would love to skip this, but need to box my bike)
  • Chain lube
  • Bike multi-tool
  • Two extra spokes (one for each side of rear) and spoke wrench
  • Leatherman
  • Adventure Cycling maps and compass

    Camp stuff:

  • Mummy bag (REI polar pod )

  • Ground pad (big agnes 3/4 length air pad)

  • Tent (REI sololite)
  • 50 feet of 400lb line
  • Ultralight camp stove (shipping from amazon , buying fuel when I land in seattle)
  • Aluminum pot/pan
  • First aid kit (added water purification tabs, nail clippers, space blanket, condoms)
  • Polyurethane sheets, one sized for ground cloth, one for bike cover
  • Bathroom kit, tube of laundry soap
  • Two one liter bottles for water

    Clothing:

  • Columbia cargo pants with zip-off lower legs. Seem water resistant.

  • Two pairs bike shorts, two cycling jerseys, one long sleeve wicking shirt

  • Four sets undies and socks, one set warm socks
  • Bright yellow windbreaker, seems water resistant

    On my body/miscellaneous:

  • Mirror on my glasses

  • Neon reflective safety vest
  • Masses of sun block
  • Two water bottles on my frame
  • iPhone 4s, Kindle (loaded with Game of Thrones), wall charger

    Undecided

  • Maybe my DSLR, if everything else comes in light enough

    If I have any glaring omissions, or if you can tell me from experience, "Dude, you don't need to bring that!", then I will be super grateful for your insight into this.

    edit for formatting
u/eowenith · 3 pointsr/AppalachianTrail

My SO and I did a nobo this year. We had one stove and two cups. We started with a pot, which I think was 1.3 liters, and sent it home in Neels Gap cause it was heavy and we never used it.

u/trololuey · 3 pointsr/Frugal

$100 is a bit much. You can find good ones cheap.

I really like the can idea though because it will work for anyone in a pinch.

u/trebory6 · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

I've been using this $8 stove I got on Amazon, and so far it's been working just as well as my friend's Pocket Rocket. Just putting that out there.

But out of curiosity, where would you recommend finding used gear?

u/Eat-Sleep-Lift · 3 pointsr/homegym

Not OP but, the Titan T-2 design is a prevalent design from a number of manufacturers. ex. Atlas Power Rack and RepFitness Power Rack

From the Repfitness website they list the specs of the 2x2 uprights as 14 gauge. That translates to a 5/64" or ~2mm thick steel. Compared to the R-3 (T-3) 11 gauge steel which is 1/8" or ~3.175mm

The 2x2 14 gauge racks are advertised as capable of holding 700lbs on the j-cups. Comparatively the 11 gauge 2x3 racks can hold 1000lbs

For the average home gym user that weight differential is negligible. Realistically the only time someone would approach the maximum weight capacity would be on one exercise, the squat. And for either rack I'd suggest not ever dumping that kind of weight from max height onto the safeties.

So both racks perform their primary function comparably. Why would someone go for the T-3 over the T-2? That's just personal preference on a number of things. But here are the main differences. The T-2 doesn't need to be bolted to the floor or platform. The T-3 (R-3) has the westside hole spacing throughout the benching area. T-3 has both a 1.25" and 2" pull up bar. There are more compatible accessories (thanks to Rogue) for the T-3. Like OP you can buy spotter arms and bench outside the rack on the T-3.

Of course the ability to modify and expand upon the T-3(R-3) comes with the caveat of cost. The rack is more expensive and the accessories will be too.

u/theking4u · 3 pointsr/homegym

All this advice applies if you live in the US (don't wanna waste your time).

For a full power rack, I would recommend just waiting for a good deal on craigslist. Even this rack on amazon is pretty good deal

I'm sure if you look long enough you can find a better deal on craigslist. I bought that weight bench a few years ago, but if I had known better I would have just gotten a power rack. As a beginner (less than 300lbs on squat), this solution works for me. Also, try to find one with a pulley system if possible, cause I love some of the exercises that are only possible with a pulley system, especially if you are beginner. Also, remember if you decide to upgrade you can always sell something professionally made and get most of your money back and even make money if bought from a really good deal. Of course, void all this if you love building stuff and have the time.

u/LoadInSubduedLight · 3 pointsr/headphones

Something like this should be able to help?

u/lostboyz · 3 pointsr/headphones

picked mine up just about 6 years ago and I just got some HE400s yesterday. Have fun!

I still love mine, they are super beefy, but the headband will go at some point. This replacement works, I promise. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/wondroushippo · 3 pointsr/headphones

Sucks it doesn't come with an AC adapter, especially since you got the battery edition! I will say that you probably want to use a 6.5mm-3.5mm plug adapter that has a cord on it to prevent stress on the 3.5mm jack there: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/

u/SumtinOriginal · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Be carefull with that 6.3m>3.5 plug , its not all that sturdy and has ruined one of my headphone input slot things .do yourself a favor and get one like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

u/scalablecory · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

There's no quality degradation from an adapter, and a cheap adapter will sound just as good as an expensive one. These things either tend to work or not, there's nothing in between.

Just don't get a plug-style adapter: this builds a big torque multiplier that'll rip up your port if you put leverage on it. Get a cable-style adapter like this one from Sennheiser.

u/aussie_jason · 3 pointsr/Jeep

As long as you have an auxiliary port then something like this - iClever Himbox HB01 Bluetooth 4.0 Hands-Free Car Kit with 3.5mm Aux Jack, Multi-Point Access, Siri / Voice Activation, Dual USB Charger & Magnetic Base, Updated Aluminum Ring - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XA.Byb7K33VRW

u/hornicorn- · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I have this one in my car and let me just say it is amazing. Auto connects up from last time and has an extra USB port to plug my phone in. This is the one you want. iClever Himbox HB01 Bluetooth 4.0 Hands-Free Car Kit with 3.5mm Aux Jack, Multi-Point Access, Siri / Voice Activation, Dual USB Charger & Magnetic Base, Updated Aluminum Ring - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_evZQybP1GK9SS

u/YouOnlyLurkOnce · 3 pointsr/technology

I went through three variations on this device before finding one that works well. It's this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5 months in and it's still batting 1000 by every metric I can think of.

u/cookrw1989 · 3 pointsr/Ford

If you want cheaper, get an FM Modulator and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K

I use this one in my Subaru and plug it into an aux jack and its great!

And if you're electronically proficient, here's a way to add an aux hard wired to the radio: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=luqvjfCjYbA

u/halpmeplz01 · 3 pointsr/PS4

Another option- I'm linking the one I got below. It is like $14, but the cheap ones seemed to have really mixed reviews, to say the least, so I went with the Sennheiser one with muchhh better reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/dicks1jo · 3 pointsr/headphones

A little bit before handing the mixamp off to my roommate to use. You need an adapter to plug into a mixamp. This guy worked for me. In the end, I found myself abandoning the mixamp altogether though. It's a cool idea, but I just found the quality level of the execution lacking.

u/crazyherb · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I use a ModMic 5 with my Sennheiser HD 650.

This adapter to split.

This cable to make it less annoying

The cable doesn't seem to be in stock anymore, but you get the idea.

Plug the cable into your controller, the splitter into the cable, the mic into the mic input of the splitter, and your headphones into the headphone input of the splitter.

Make sure any cables you get are 4-pole so it supports stereo audio plus the microphone.

The mic is detachable (magnetic) and looks like this attached.

u/time_wasted504 · 3 pointsr/funny

theyre for the RCA to mono TS bandits, you want one of these for your little friends.

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

Oh, the jack on the left is just a 1/4" inch jack. You have a 1/8" plug (also called 3.5mm) on your headphones. You just need an adapter like the example linked below, but you may have one laying around they often come with many headphones.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T

u/gogogina · 3 pointsr/backpacking

I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.

Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.

This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.

I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.

These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!

u/KvetchBetch · 3 pointsr/AskWomen

OK, this post is going to look like a series of ads but I promise that neither me nor anyone I know works for these companies; these are just products I love and wouldn't fly without.

Carry-on items: generally you're allowed one carry-on bag and one "personal item" (generally a non-luggage bag) so I always travel with a laptop backpack as my main carry-on and a big, soft, zippered tote as my personal item. I used to have this travel bag with a zillion pockets but it got to be such a pain trying to remember which pocket had which item it got stupid. Now with a big tote, I can just drag it out from under the seat, open it wide, and pull out one of the...

Packing cubes: Godsend. I buy them from ebags in various sizes, using the big ones for clothing in the pack, and the little ones in my tote. I use different colored ones in the tote for different things. Green for snacks, red for electronics, and blue for comfort items. Since all the small, easily jumbled items are in smaller bags, they're less likely to get lost in the bottom of my big bag. I try to keep my electronics cube better organized by using...

Gear ties: these are like durable, reusable twist ties for things like cords, cables, handfuls of hair elastics, anything you want to keep bundled up and untangled. When I want to use something like my earbuds or a charging cable, I just twist the tie around my tote handle so it won't get lost. Some of the items also in my electronics cube are:

Plug adapter (international travel, I have one for every country I'm hitting, even if it's just an airport stop - one 14-hour stranding in the Hong Kong airport overnight taught me that lesson.)

Compact multi-outlet power strip which can make you new best friends in airports and make the stupidly-configured power outlets in hotel rooms actually workable.

Four-port USB charger: one of these means I only need one outlet to charge my phone, tablet, e-book, and my...

Portable power bank: nothing sucks more than a long flight when all your electronic entertainment doodads have run out of juice. My power bank can charge my phone fully 3+ times and is about the same size as the phone itself.

Onto the comfort items! Some of them go into a packing cube in my tote, others are larger so they're separate.

Disinfecting wipes: I like these because they're individually wrapped and good for both hands and surfaces. First thing I do when I get onto a germ-factory airplane is wipe down my armrests and tray table. Also great for public restrooms when you find out there's no soap.

Filtering water bottle: in many cities around the world, airport bottled water is crazy expensive, and water bottle filling station water is, in a word, nasty. I can attach this bottle to my tote with a carabiner and the filter makes most municipal water taste at least halfway decent.

Travel pillow: personal preference but this one is my favorite. My husband prefers a memory foam donut one but I find it heavy and bulky and not supportive in the right way. The Travelrest rolls up to a compact shape and inflates in seconds.

Soft, layered clothing: I wear yoga pants, a sports bra, a t-shirt, a light drape cardigan and slip-on shoes. The only thing remotely binding I wear is...

Light compression socks: actually my pair is just a regular pair of knee socks in the Nordstrom house brand that I keep snug by only wearing them for flights and handwashing them so they don't lose their elasticity. No matter how often I get up and move around during a long flight I'll get puffy ankles if I don't wear snug socks. Over those, once I'm in my seat I put on...

Fuzzy slipper socks. My feet freeze on planes but I don't like wearing my shoes for that long. Even though I don't think my shoes smell, if I get the stinkeye from a neighbor, I put my shoes into a plastic bag, otherwise I can usually get them off and hide them under the seat in front of me before my seat mates arrive to my row. Because I get so cold on flights I also wear/carry a...

Pashmina or other large scarf: works as a fashion accessory, blanket, pillow, and a don't-talk-to-me barrier when worn like a hood. Also covers up that spot where you spilled your coffee on yourself because you had to be at the airport at 5:30 a.m.

Sleeping mask: slap one of these on, engage your (preferably noise-canceling) headphones, lean into your travel pillow, cuddle up under your scarf and try to forget you're rocketing 35K feet over the planet in a big metal tube.

Single-use toothbrushes: I love those little Wisp toothbrush things - I usually keep them in my handbag or work desk for those oh-shit-here-comes-the-CEO-and-I-just-had-a-grande-latte moments, but they're also great for a little freshening up on a plane or in an airport without needing to get out your actual toiletries.

Moisturizers: because plane air is so drying this includes travel-sized lotion, face moisturizer, and lip balm. So much lip balm. I like Aquaphor myself.

Snacks: be nice to your fellow travelers and keep your snacks non-smelly, quiet especially if it's an overnight flight, and not too messy. I like to bring things like clementines, Babybel cheese, trail mix, chocolate covered nuts, or granola bars. Gum is good for takeoffs and landings. If you're prone to motion sickness, candied ginger is great.

Have a comfortable flight!

u/otoz · 3 pointsr/VirginiaTech

Some of this is your professors fault, there are some rooms WITH outlets, they just didn't request them. All of surge has outlets in the floor and first class AV systems, but engineering professors never want to teach there because they have to walk farther. Many rooms in Surge are only booked an hour a day.

Most buildings on campus were designed and built well before computers were smaller than the size of rooms, so power wasn't event remotely thought about, because of this much of it cannot by code be retrofitted. To get power in these rooms requires power to be run directly from the breaker, if the breaker(which was probably installed in 1960) isn't designed for it, it has to be replaced(many thousands of dollars), lines have to be run, outlets installed, total cost for a room is probably on the order of $10-15k, many thousands more if asbestos has to be touched in any way which is EVERYWHERE in lots of the old buildings. Multiply that by every room on campus and you see why just adding power isn't a trivial task.

Some rooms have them, ask your professor to request one of these rooms, many rooms have power along the walls, bring a small travel power strip and sit near the wall. MOAR POWER

tl;dr tell your prof to stop requesting the room across from his office that was last renovated in 1972 or deal with it.

u/crackered · 3 pointsr/lifehacks

Monster makes a nice 4 outlet strip for traveling: http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M

u/MagicShoe · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)

[For RCA Output] http://www.turtlebeach.com/product-detail/cables-parts/35mm-female-to-rca-stereo-splitter-cable/99

||OR||

[For 3.5MM output] http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B007ZIBURC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552003&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+female

----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------

[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]

(HDMI to DVI with audio out) http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Audio-external-Needed-DA-HVNP/dp/B00BPX13D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552345&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio

||OR The Long Way||

You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.

Using this:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552883&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+cable

Connect it to this:

(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA) http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552748&sr=8-1&keywords=spdif+to+rca

THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552852&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+female

Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/techsupport

looks like that tv does not have an analog audio output so you would need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/

there are cheaper ones, at around $12-16, but those don't have a headphone out, just a line level analog out, meant for powered speakers. so i recommended this one. also there is no volume adjustment so i recommend a headphone with a volume control. you also need a digital optical cable such as:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

for question 2, you can try putting the TV into 1:1 pixel mapping. not all TVs have this option, unfortunately. you can check if it does, but pressing the 'picture' button on your remote. sometimes its called "just scan"

u/Sir0bin · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Makes sense haha. And through a TOSLINK (also known as optical) cable such as this.

u/jimbonics · 3 pointsr/xboxone

The adapter alone will not give you audio AND chat with X31's.

The problem with the X31's is they do not utilize optical audio, just the red/white RCA cables.

So, You can get yet ANOTHER adapter ( a "Y" adapter I guess) that plugs into the to-be-released headset adapter, which would still require rca/3.5" converter, or you can get a solution that will allow you to use them wireless for game audio.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GSW

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA

Edit: I have the X32's and the above items got them working with the XB1 without a hitch, minus chat capabilities obviously.

u/isntathief · 3 pointsr/xboxone

So the way I have my Xbox setup with a soundbar is via an Optical Cable through the TV, however this is so all sound from my TV feeds through it.

Amazon Basics Optical Toslink Cable - $5.99 - By far the best quality cable for the price in terms of build. However you can get some from Monoprice - $2 for cheaper.

---
My soundbar connection

Xbox > HDMI > TV > Optical > Soundbar

---

Another method is just a straight connection if all you want it for is your Xbox One. Then using possibly the Stereo Audio for your other products (if any).

---
Easy Direct Connection

Xbox > Optical > Soundbar

u/RodentKoss · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm really enjoying the Sennheiser Game Zero, it's the same headset as the Sennheiser HD 380 Pro that I was using before, but with a built in boom microphone. Excellent noise deadening, I can barely hear the "real world" with the headset on, it's great.

u/Chabbies · 3 pointsr/headphones

I'm not Canadian but since I'm bored I found these

Sennheiser HD 380

Sennheiser HD 280

Shure SE215 (Just bough a pair of the clear ones not 2 hours ago :D)

Those are all the ones I could find without posting ones that have already been posted in their own thread by other users. Hope it was helpful anyways

u/LD5ifty · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.

When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.

u/Dent18 · 3 pointsr/drums

I use http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Collapsible-Headphones-380-Pro/dp/B001UE6I0G

Great noise canceling/balance between hearing your drums and music

They're solid for general usage too

u/MEatRHIT · 3 pointsr/hardware

~~You could probably use something like this with one of these and one of these. I just grabbed the first search results so better prices could be found easily.
edit* you'd also need to find a female to female 3.5mm connector as well.... you might be better off finding a jack and having someone solder the connections. (this plus this and this)~~

or you could just get one of these

u/mikochu · 3 pointsr/xbox360

You need a 2.5 to 3.5 headset adapter...and maybe a mic/headphone splitter...or a cable that does both.

Edit:

Atomic Market 2.5 Female to 3.5 Male Audio Adapter Stero or Mono Gold Plated
http://amzn.com/B00AVQ7HJ0

Headset Buddy Adapter: Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter - Use a 3.5mm iPhone/Smartphone Headset With Your PC, Converts 3.5mm Plug to Dual Mic/Audio 3.5mm, for Skype/VOIP (01-PH35-PC35)
http://amzn.com/B00332DPDG

u/sodium_azide · 3 pointsr/IndoorGarden

Oh wow! Bleed over from my other hobby, homebrewing. You'll need a temperature controller. You can build one: http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/08/step-by-step-temperature-build-using-the-stcitc-1000.html

Or you can buy a prebuilt one. I have a Johnson controls A419 for homebrewing purposes and it is a study, simple piece of equipment. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA

u/BriThePiGuy · 3 pointsr/arduino

I bought this 4 years ago and it's worked perfectly:https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500142335&sr=8-2&keywords=johnson+controls+temperature+controller
I suppose you could duplicate this with an Arduino, some relays and a temp probe, but with the amp draw of the freezer I feel a lot more comfortable with an off the shelf product.

u/bullcityhomebrew · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

> You'll need to do some wiring yourself

= house on fire for me.

I have the digital Johnson controller and I love it. No wiring, just plug it in-line with the freezer and boom, instant temp control.

u/_JimmyJazz_ · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

here's mine, i started like you just opening the lid before i added the collar.
it holds 5 kegs, ball lock.
i use a johnson for control.

advice: just jump in, you won't regret it. buy a 20lb co2 tank. i would buy a double regulator from the get go if i was doing it again. also seconding the perlick taps, they are awesome

u/KISSBrew · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.

If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.

u/skaggs77 · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA

This is what I have. It plugs into the wall, the fridge plugs into it. You set the temp at what you want and it cuts the power to the fridge when it cools to that point. The temp is read by a probe that you put in the fridge. Mine is belted to the side of whatever I am brewing under a piece of foam to try and get the most accurate temp for what is fermenting. It works greats, and the only thing that would be better would be a glycol jacketed conical. It is still the best investment I have made in homebrewing.

u/mdlost1 · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I've got two, one I built from a PID temp controller from ebay. The other is a pre fab johnson digital controller this one They both work fine, I prefer the pre fab one for the quality though.

u/golfzerodelta · 3 pointsr/wine

Not OP but I put my wine in a chest freezer set to 55F using the Johnson Controls A419 (very popular among homebrewers, where most of the info comes from).

You plug in the fridge to the controller, and the controller into a regular outlet, and then set up your temp probe inside the fridge. Most people put it in a container of water, because it will change slower than air temp and you don't want the compressor kicking on and off constantly.

You set the temp probe's upper and lower limits (basically when does it turn on and off, respectively) and the target temp, and off you go!

u/phuntism · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Kind of... but sous-vide cookers can get much better results than slow cookers because they can cook with cooler temperatures and fluid immersion, (although there are tools that can allow slow cookers to cook sous-vide).

u/noburdennyc · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

For $6 you could buy this stove 15 times before buying a $100 MSR once. I'm pretty happy with it. Worth getting and trying for a weekend. if you don't like it it's a great stocking stuffer.

u/goon_c137 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Headset Adapter, MillSO 3.5mm Jack Headphone Splitter CTIA Headphone Adapter Mic and Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for Gaming Headset to PC - 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a1WRDbY51HFXY

u/stacker55 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

if its aux cable you probably need a splitter to make it headset and mic plugs instead of 3 in 1. check here

also you probably know but if the mic is in the up position its automatically muted. but its probably the splitter that will fix this

u/J-Dubbleu · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The port you're plugging into is an output port only, so it doesn't even recognize your earbud's mic. What you need to do is get a headphone mic splitter like this one, and plug the separate ports into your computers audio output, and audio input jacks.

u/Madshadow85 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

So your headphones only have one male connector and you need it split into two for your computer? You would need something like below.


Headset Adapter, MillSO 3.5mm Jack Headphone Splitter CTIA Headphone Adapter Mic and Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for Gaming Headset to PC - 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GJKIDbPNDPKG3

u/YoYo-Pete · 3 pointsr/macbookpro

Man...

I feel you buddy. I have Astro's Mix Amp Pro (which doesnt work in boot camp) and the headphone jack on the side really gets wonky and auto changes the levels (never for the better). Mic will go to zero or will max out so it's clipping and nobody can understand.

Right now I am using the cheapest USB desktop mic I could buy. I probably need the USB device you mention.

You need this: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=headphone+splitter&qid=1558723770&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Then you can use it with those cheap USB audio cards.

u/-UserRemoved- · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/KiyPhi · 2 pointsr/headphones

This is going to be a tough find if it even exists because the DAC would also have to have an ADC inside as well to get the mic signal to the laptop. It is hard enough to engineer a decent DAC that small, let alone adding in an amp AND an ADC converter. You are most likely going to find it easier to get a mic/headphone splitter like this one and use two ports instead.

u/SilvaDragon · 2 pointsr/FORTnITE

As you are likely aware, there are separate audio channel settings for game sound and chat sound. When this happens, if you go into the audio menu, can you just change the game audio back to the PS4 controller, or is that option gone?

On the hardware side, you could get an adapter for your headset that breaks out the mic and speaker lines and plug them straight into the PC to bypass any USB driver flakiness that might be causing this:
Example adapter on Amazon

u/cnc137 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Based on the AOC G2590Px Manual on AOC Gaming's website it looks like the "Earphone" (Audio) jack on the monitor is only for audio output and NOT for a microphone also.

Does your headset have one or two audio plugs on the end of it?

If it only has one, then you will need to buy a headset adapter and then plug the green plug into your motherboard's audio out (headphones)(usually green) jack and the pink plug into your motherboard's microphone jack (usually pink) to get audio out and your microphone to work on your headset.

u/dephyre · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming
u/SuperNerdDace · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The problem is likely that your desktop doesen't have a connection to allow both audio out and audio in on one 3.5 port. You can work around this by joining the connection with one of these cables.

u/Vexiified · 2 pointsr/pchelp

The only way to get both mic and sound at the same time would be to have an audio splitter. It's pretty dumb but that's the only way you can get something like earbuds to work.

u/MRThundrcleese · 2 pointsr/techsupport

yes this is what you want

u/Rashkh · 2 pointsr/headphones

The headphone jack on your PC is probably just a headphone jack, not a headphone/mic jack. Try using a splitter.

u/kilogears · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

The box is literally just wire, no components. The 7300 already has a DC bias on the mic audio pin, it just needs to be connected to the headset mic pin. I will see if I can find the diagram, my 11 year old actually did it so you are at the mercy of his “filing system”.

I will say it works great with every headset I have tried so far. The audio connector does not “mute” the radio speaker so you have to use the headphone jack on the rig (or put a dummy plug in) if you want that.

EDIT: here is the traditional PC headset to modern TRRS (“iPhone”) adapter. Worth $5, costs about the same as buying the connector by itself and much less hassle:

MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/LostInSpace9 · 2 pointsr/razer

He’ll actually need something like this if his headset has one cable and needs to be split into two for his desktop. Headset Adapter, MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA Headphone Splitter Mic and Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector Compatible for Gaming Headset to PC - 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IWihDbX2NZWA5

u/HereSoIDontGtSpoilrs · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The jacks probably don't support using both. It has to be designed a certain way to support line in and line out through the same port. I believe many motherboards don't support that, so you could get a cheap splitter like this.

u/Parzival8910 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Yes. There are ports on all motherboards (USB, Audio, Ethernet, etc) and there is a hole in the back of all cases. When you install the motherboard, you can access these ports from the backside of the case (P.S. Make sure to put in the Port Shield before you put in the motherboard).

Also, all cases have some ports near the front (Usually two USB and two audio ports, one for headphones and one for microphones. For this case, it's just one audio-port that is both input and output. This good for headsets with a built-in mic, as you usually need a splitter like this) For this case, they are on the top of the case near the front. There are a few cables inside the case that connect to the motherboard, this is how these ports that are on the case connect to the motherboard, and by extension your PC.

u/ks3aja985jajecfi64l · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You probably need a splitter, example splitter on amazon

Microphones that work with smartphones have four connections on the plug. The microphone signal is on the extra ring.

Microphones that work with most PC's have three connections on the plug with the microphone signal on the tip. (Headsets that are combined headphones and microphones need to have separate headphone and microphone plugs to work with most PC's.)

Some PC's made in the last few years support microphones and headsets with plugs with four connections, most PC's don't.

This gets asked so often that perhaps it is time for someone to write an article for the knowledgebase, ideally with pictures.

u/B0h1c4 · 2 pointsr/backpacking

This is the one that I bought. Works very well...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DObyub0RXA4HK

It takes like a month to ship though because it comes from China....or Mars.

u/andr50 · 2 pointsr/camping

It's one of these
It took about 3 weeks shipping, and I had to pick it up from the post office, but at that price it's pretty unbeatable.

u/garage_cleaner · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I can't use this much camping on oahu, but this would be great for a camping trip to either Washington or Oregon!

It also has free shipping! I already have a mess kit, and the butane can be obtained at walmart, but I havnt seen such a great price on a camp stove. The reviews make it seem awesome!

Someone else posted this as well, but I also had this on my list.

Story time: On one of our first dates my then boyfriend, now husband, took me hiking on a trail near his house. It's a pretty intense one where people have died getting very lost. We had hiked it before and gotten a little confused and had to climb a very sketchy crumbling rocky hillside and I was concerned we'd get lost again.

I was reassured that he had GPS and we'd be fine and we'd only be out a short while. Well, my husband had no water, and I had a half liter bottle. We started out and it was pretty easy, there are tons of streams in the area but there is a risk of leptospirosis from pigs, so obviously we didn't drink. Needless to say we got lost, his so-called GPS wa his cell phone and there was no reception, we were lost for three hours. He landed up drinking the majority of my water since he sweats a lot, had none and is nearly double my weight.

I was so thirsty in the way back, those crystal clean fast moving waters looked tempting, but I was no fool. That life-straw would have been such a godsend on that hike of lost crazy. We eventually got back drank tons of water, and my husband vowed we'd never go hiking there again unless we had real supplies.

Edit: it's also neat that I have links to other great camp supplies!

u/Rothbard · 2 pointsr/hiking

Anything MSR cooking is aweaome, and then for a cheap pocket stove, check this out:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1344822829&sr=8-10&keywords=pocket+stove

It's a great great value. If you buy that and the MSR skillet with a gas canister, you're good to go for a while.

u/Do_it_in_a_Datsun · 2 pointsr/homegym

Looks just like the Atlas but twice as pricey. I use my Atlas 5-6 times a week. Owned it for over a year now and its fine.

u/ubdead5x · 2 pointsr/homegym

The Atlas Power Rack is also great (it is very similar to the Titan Power Rack, but has better reviews). It'll cost you about $400 after shipping and taxes.

u/WhoFartleked · 2 pointsr/triathlon

sometimes people make a distinction between a power cage (enclosed) and a squat rack (open on one side), or a full rack / half rack.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/

http://www.amazon.com/Cap-Barbell-Deluxe-Power-Cage/dp/B00I04Z52G

I like the full racks. My gym just put in a row of them and I can do my whole workout in one or two stations. Some day I want to make space in my workshop for one.

u/Konstantynopolitancz · 2 pointsr/bodyweightfitness

Mine has a bar that's straight across

u/TheGreatestWall · 2 pointsr/Fitness

"Squat rack supports up to 300 lb" lmao that is final destination waiting to happen. OP just save up for a decent quality power rack. Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1475095596&sr=1-4&keywords=power+rack

u/deiselaewireless · 2 pointsr/homegym

I don't like how the bench is attached to the rack.

You might like something like this that adds the possibility of doing squats:

http://www.amazon.com/Golds-Gym-XRS-Olympic-Bench/dp/B009PA1KJG/

I have one of these for my home gym:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/

I like it a lot since I can do pretty much any compound exercise and having the safety pins is a huge plus. Im not sure how I would feel benching heavy weight with the adidas bench when there is no safety mechanism.

u/b2kpm · 2 pointsr/Fitness

Shit I've been using an even cheaper one for almost a year now and it has held up great, no problems.

edit: although if you have amazon prime the powerline ships free so there is that to consider. If it is on deep enough sale it can often be cheaper due to this. But either one, add a set of rings to the pullup bar and you've got a stew going. Getting a rack for the garage was one of my best fitness decisions ever. No excuses when its just downstairs.

u/bartmanx · 2 pointsr/homefitness

I don't think you've considered a power rack, but I think you should.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench-Racks/dp/B004UMM4QC

A power rack or cage, olympic barbell, with 200lb of weights (to start) and you're equipped for doing the best exercises out there.

Have a look at...

http://stronglifts.com/5x5/

which is a very popular strength training program for beginners.

Here is an example build I found by googling...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/comments/3mls56/home_gym_500/cvg32b1

u/afterlove · 2 pointsr/90daysgoal

Yesterday.. my power rack came in! I even managed to assemble it all before bedtime. I'm super pumped for this - I've always wanted one in my house (I really don't like going to the gym alone) and now I do :) Time to get my lift on!

Today My goal is to track my food on MFP. Also I decided I really need to cut the "fluff" out of my life - things I do that waste time and really serve no purpose. Like surf the internet/play on my phone for hours on end! Or sit on the couch right when I get home from work. If only I could stay moving, I would get so much more accomplished in the day to day. Also I am on a mission to acquire an Olympic barbell.

Otherwise.. Happy Halloween!

u/tolos · 2 pointsr/Fitness

I bought a power rack from amazon for about $400 (that's with shipping). I can't drop weights where I work out; the bottom safety bar position is about four inches short of full RoM for deadlifts so I built a short platform to stand on for deadlifts. The rack has a pullup bar.

Bought olympic barbell and 255 lbs of plates (not bumper plates) for about $200 on craigslist. There were some small rust spots on a few of the plates, but it's not like that changes their functionality. The annoying part was checking everyday for a couple of weeks until what I wanted showed up for a reasonable price. Maybe you live in a better city.

Bought a bench from amazon as well for $150. I decided to buy new because of similar safety concerns. If I recall, the listed weight limit is just for additional weights, and it assumes something like a 200 lbs person, so this bench is actually rated up to 500 lbs. It's harder to know what a bench is rated at just from looking at a poor cell phone pic from a craigslist add, and if it comes with a dinky 1" diameter barbell I'm going to be skeptical it can hold a lot of weight.

u/chromenomad · 2 pointsr/Fitness

You'll be better off to just buy a cheap bench and use it inside a power rack like this .. that'll open up the exercise possibilities also. (squats, chins, presses) By setting the bottom bars at the appropriate height, it's easier to bail out if you're using too much weight without a spotter.

I had a bench setup like what you're describing (though with wider supports), and I found it to just take up a lot of space for no reason. It's not conducive to most other exercises you might ever decide to do. Even for casual/supportive work for other activities, the rack is still really useful and doesn't take up much more floor space than your bench does.

u/panaceator · 2 pointsr/homegym

This rack is cheaper and amazing. I have it. The cost belies the quality. Check out the reviews.

u/Tofinochris · 2 pointsr/homegym

I have this one and have had it for about 15 months, using it 3-4 times a week. The quality is great, 14 gauge steel and feels extremely sturdy. The j-hooks and spotter bars are solid steel so nothing's happening to them. I did 90% of the assembly myself and then got my wife to help me hold up the sides to do the last bolts; make sure you follow the directions about not tightening the bolts super tight until you've got the thing together (this is good advice for putting together anything with bolts actually). Heaviest weight I've used with it is 365), and it says the max weight is 800, but really if you're gonna be using any more than four plates on it you're lifting enough that you should be looking into higher quality equipment not something cheap and cheerful. If you're a beginner or intermediate lifter and all your lifts are under 400 (assuming you want to do rack pulls or something with your deadlift weight) this rack will suit you great. I also do pull-ups/chins off the front bar and the thing doesn't wobble even with no weight on the back, and I'm 6'5"/210.

This rack will last because there's not really anything on it to break down. I wouldn't go cheapest on a bench or a bar, especially not a bar because you'll be replacing a crappy one within a year, but you're grand with a cheaper rack as long as the reviews are good, it's made out of sturdy stuff, and you assemble it correctly.

u/ManicResin · 2 pointsr/Android

I'm currently using this case, its one they sell at vzw. I like it because it wont slip on surfaces but isn't hard to get in and out of my pocket.

I also tried this case with is nice but the volume button can get accidentally press to easily. Ended up cutting out a hole for the volume buttons.

u/Baconrules21 · 2 pointsr/Android

http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344398907&sr=8-1&keywords=galaxy+nexus+matte+case

That's what I have and it's very very good. I really like it. I bought the same case for my S3 as well just because the color is so nice from the same company and so did my uncle.

It's a nice case.

u/Exogenic · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNexus
u/Ryguy085 · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

Diztronic. Not plastic but has a nice grippy feel to it

u/compywiz · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

If your contacts are saved in either your Google Account or backed up with Verizon Contact Backup, then when you sign into your new phone they will all come over. If you chose not to do either of these, then they're all gone to you. I suppose it's possible Verizon can plug in their machine and download your contacts, but I'm not familiar with that since everyone seems to save contacts to their Google account.

If you're not sure if you saved them in your GA, go to Google Contacts and check. If they are there, they will all show up when you sign in.

As far as emails go, if you use gmail, all that is stored on the web. The only way you would lose email is if you used POP3 on your phone instead of IMAP. It's also possible you will lose emails sent or deleted from the phone.

This is the case I have and I love it. It's a TPU case so it's mega thin while still providing enough protection in my opinion.

Good luck!

u/remlap · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

Great tip I found them for £5.95 on Amazon UK fulfilled by Amazon UK so free shipping.

u/icefreez · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNexus

Is this the link your looking for?

u/EinTheVariance · 2 pointsr/headphones

hmm, I have both of those for years now and never had this issue even with extensive usage (for a period of time, I had been using them for 6+ hours a day, even 12+ hours on weekends). I don't think there's anything you can with the Logitech pair, but I replaced the Steelseries earpads right away as they were too shallow for me and hurt my ears.

Replacing the Steelseries pads is no different than replacing it on other common headphones. You just pop them off and slip the new pads on. There is even a notch on the plastic cup so it's even easier to do than other headphones.

I use these on them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDX4YO/ref
They also have pleather versions of you don't like velor or don't want to be arsed with cleaning the lint off the velor from time to time, but it is definitely cooler (temperature wise) and a lot more comfortable than the pleather version.

Anyway, they are a little tight (don't be afraid to apply force when putting these pads on) but fit perfectly without any trimming or anything. As I've said, all you have to do is use the notch on the cup and just spin the lip of the pad on the cup. If you are having issues, I suppose I could do a video or something, but should be simple enough.

EDIT: oh, and as for your headband, there are "replacements" for those too that you can snap over like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
http://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO

u/MrEleventy · 2 pointsr/headphones

3 4 Suggestions :

Creative Aurvana Live New is outside of your budget but there's some used (Like New) on Amazon that's pretty close to $50. They say over-ear but it might be on-ear if you have large ears.


Panasonic HTF600 Warm and bassy. Price has been high on these for some reason. I bought these over the summer for under $30. Still a good buy at $40.


Monoprice 8032 All about the mids, decent bass. Headband got uncomfortable after extended use. Might need to invest in a headband like this


Limitless Creations HP3BK Forgot about these, $40. Rec'd by /u/keanex.

u/MrDongji · 2 pointsr/headphones

I would recommend the Focuspads, I spent money and time on getting Hifiman Velours and they were very disappointing (too stiff).

Do not get the FocusPadsA variant, just FocusPads which are better quality.

Headband replacement here, pretty sure ebay has them since you're in NZ.

u/T0XlCZ · 2 pointsr/headphones

Thanks for the reply.

I have narrowed my searches down to 3 headbands.

  1. Sennheiser Foam Headband Pad

  2. Mayflower Electronics Fostex T50RP Comfort Headband

  3. This random clip-on headband that I found since I couldn't find the beyerdynamic one you mentioned

    Out of all the 3, I think I like the Mayflower one the most. It looks really comfortable.
u/J0hnkyu · 2 pointsr/headphones

I have both the headphones but I prefer the sr80is more for the sound stage and the sound signature. The bass is controlled, the mids upfront, and the highs bright but not harsh. These are a little bit uncomfortable when I first got them, you can bend the band out a little and you can get cushions for the band if you want. These pair are lighter on the head compared to the m50s

The m50's highs sound harsh to me, the mids a bit recessed and the bass a bit boomy. For comfort I replaced the stock m50 pads with velour pads. These pair are a little heavy on the head and the clamp on them is pretty tight but will loosen and be more comfortable with use.

What it really comes down to is if you want the headphones to be open back or closed depending on your needs. Also your preferred sound signature.

I listen to mostly rock, jazz, alternative, indie and some classical if that helps any.

u/Uncle_Skeeter · 2 pointsr/headphones

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862522A/ref=dra_a_rv_ff_fx_it_P2000_1000

I would take them apart and take the cushion off first.

u/Not_a_Lefty · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/basics · 2 pointsr/mechanicalheadpens

I experienced the exact same thing.

The one I use I got off amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Although that one specifically doesn't seem to be in stock. There are several similar ones listed. I paid about ~$25 for it, so I would imagine you can find something similar.

It makes a huge difference for me.... I can wear them for hours at a time and not even notice I have them on.

u/wakeupsmellthebacon · 2 pointsr/headphones

I just got the 8323's this weekend. I really like them so far, but as I have kind of a huge head, the headband is a bit painful over time. I found this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8), which is said on head-fi to greatly improve comfort.

So far, the sound is great, the price is better, and I'm totally satisfied. I also listen to a wide range of music, and so far, super satisfied.

Link to head-fi's thread on 8323 comfort: http://www.head-fi.org/t/617416/extra-comfort-on-monoprice-8323

u/x152 · 2 pointsr/headphones

what? isn't that opposite of what hes looking for?

I think hes looking for this

u/thirteen113 · 2 pointsr/headphones

They really should have included this instead:.

Cable Adapter Female 1/4" 6.3mm to Male 1/8" 3.5mm Plug

u/conwar · 2 pointsr/headphones

Sennheiser 1/4" to 1/8" adapter. This is a flexible one instead of the straight one that comes in the box.

u/Whatup69 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Yeah you can't use the 6.3 to 3.5mm adaptor on it because the cable and connector is huge/heavy and you'll break the headphone jack of whatever u plug it into. If you want to use the x00 with a 3.5mm jack I suggest getting one of these.

u/Kerry56 · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you are going from 1/4" male to 3.5mm male, we normally recommend the Sennheiser or Grado style adapter, that have a small amount of cable on them. These have the female plug for the 1/4" on one end, and the male 3.5mm on the other.

I personally use the much less expensive Hosa adapter, of the same style.

u/McMadface · 2 pointsr/headphones

But, get something more like this with a wire than something like this which is solid. It'll put less strain on whatever port you plug it in.

u/TheJniac · 2 pointsr/headphones

Those short metal adapters are a terrible idea. One yank and you will have a first-hand lesson of the physics of levers. Sennheiser sells an adapter that should do nicely.

u/euphoric_grammar · 2 pointsr/headphones

While /u/Joosyosrs point might be true too, I mostly hate it because it's really really fat and there's no extra length to the connector. So as a result, it won't fit into a lot of 3.5mm sockets. For example, it won't fit in my phone with a case on, and when I used to use a UCA202 as a DAC/amp, it couldn't plug into that either. It's also stupid to have it as one giant adapter rather than something like this one that Sennheiser makes because now you have a massive chain of big plugs hanging straight out of the socket.

u/OneWarning13 · 2 pointsr/headphones

This Sennheiser one is good, it's the one that comes with the HD650.

u/Awsaim · 2 pointsr/iphone

This could probably help you and OP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0S4Dyb836DF2Nb it's even got the physical skip and reverse buttons too and you can put it where it's more convenient or safe for you.

u/jvorn · 2 pointsr/technology

Hey btw I had a similar setup to you/distain for bluetooth transmitters, but I've been using the Titan Himbox for a while and its amazing. Plugs into aux so minimal quality loss. Love it, actually made me stop considering getting a new car.

u/cheesecoffee · 2 pointsr/techsupport

iClever Himbox HB01 Bluetooth 4.0 Hands-Free Car Kit with 3.5mm Aux Jack, Multi-Point Access, Siri / Voice Activation, Dual USB Charger & Magnetic Base, Updated Aluminum Ring - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VXsvzb43JZK5B

Himbox, $25. Stupid name, great product. If you get any hum or feedback you'll need a loop noise isolator, which is around $10. No install, bt controls, easy.

u/Bradnon · 2 pointsr/audio

I know it's not what you're asking for, but your options aren't limited to buying a whole new head unit. They make standalone receivers that plug in to an aux port: https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K

u/HenryOfEight · 2 pointsr/RangeRover

A quick google appears to be if you have the Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) then the aux is in the rear under a flap on the center console.

That’s where mine is on my Sport 06, but I have the tv screens and DVD player.
It was a must have feature for getting such an old car, but I wanted one for a while.

I then purchased one of these and it works great.Bluetooth Adapter

Mine has two Aux, one has the Satellite radio on it, so not sure if you have a “Sat” button and can hook into that?

Good luck, nice car.

u/e1337ist · 2 pointsr/prius

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MpGXrePD4JCm8

I got one of these for my 2008. Mounted the control on the left side of the center console. It's been fantastic so far. Play Pause Track Forward and Back, starts up and pairs automatically when your car turns on, and doesn't interfere with the existing hands free phone system built into the Prius. You can use your steering wheel volume controls to adjust the audio as you would any other AUX source. It's by far the best balance of functionality, features, and affordability that I've found.

u/fieldsofgreen · 2 pointsr/prius

Sadly there is no software or upgrade you can do to make it work stock.

But, this is an awesome cheap alternative, exactly what I use:

iClever Himbox HB01 Bluetooth 4.0 Hands-Free Car Kit with 3.5mm Aux Jack, Multi-Point Access, Siri / Voice Activation, Dual USB Charger & Magnetic Base, Updated Aluminum Ring - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_kb2uybFVKTJCK

Cheap, easy, connects every time I try in the car. Since the gen 2 prius has the aux and a 12v in the center console, you can easily set this thing up behind the scenes. I cannot recommend it enough! I have the controller puck mounted right next to my seat belt so I can easily skip songs and pause music. Works incredibly well!

u/hamburger_protocol · 2 pointsr/BMW

Just check out wireless Bluetooth adapters on Amazon, there are dozens. I got this himbox because it was cheap, its very small and subtle, easy to use, but the sound quality fluctuates and sometimes is pretty poor

u/oranjeboven · 2 pointsr/mercedes

No. Stay away from FM and use your aux input. The Wirecutter reviewed all the auxillary Bluetooth units and rated this one the best.

u/Lurking_Grue · 2 pointsr/technology

I hear ya.

My ford was just driving me nuts. Every morning I had to use voice commands to set it to bluetooth and that barely worked. On top of that the car would wait 15 seconds and send a play command so I would start driving away and my podcast would suddenly stop and I couldn't really disable those features. The interface was wobbly as hell.

I went though the trouble to upgrade the firmware on my car and it just introduced more bugs like an audio dropout every 20 seconds.

I finally gave up and bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K

The experience was SO much better as my car would stay in Aux and there is a physical button for that and I just hit play on the device and it just plays.

Funny thing is every so often my car will fuck up and it is on some random radio channel and aux no longer functions until I turn off the car, open the door and start over.

Seriously, car manufactures have to fucking clue when it comes to software.

u/wikkix · 2 pointsr/leaf

I've got this one, it works great. Get some velcro or something to help hide the wires and it doens't even look too bad. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/wickedzeus · 2 pointsr/mazda3

if you're going to do this, don't forget to pick up a ground loop noise isolator it will get rid of the whirring/static noise you'll inevitably get as you drive. That's the one I used, so I can vouch for it, but there are many other ones out there. I had it paired with this on my 07 (placed it on the front of the center console a few inches under the lip) and it worked well until I switched cars

u/summervacationtoHoth · 2 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

I have the iClever Himbox as a secondary Bluetooth connection in my car. It has a nice wired remote thing that works for changing tracks and play/pause functionality.

u/SteveTCook · 2 pointsr/technology

Most cars with bluetooth pair automatically (and reliably) when you turn your car on. You don't need to take your phone out of your pocket many times. Just hit play to start up where you left off.

I've had 2 cars like this. In one of them, I used one of these: https://amzn.com/B00GJFGE0K

Worked really well, and I liked it more than fumbling with aux cable all the time.

u/EllisCristoph · 2 pointsr/letsplay

this works with razer or any other headset

u/DuBcEnT · 2 pointsr/EliteOne

Yeeeesssss, I feel your indecision grooowwwwing. come to the dark side. On a side note I got the mic from my brother which he won for free from work and I have my computer, xbox, and tablet going to my headphones.

Now the mic issue for me is solved by using the stream mic. My buddy just patched the tv headphone jack with his pc to some headphones using the rockstar and uses an old mic plugged into the controller to chat.

I have also talked to someone who used one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C

along with a cable to patch in his Game audio and whatever device he wishes to play separate audio from. Either way there are options all it takes is some creativity....... and wires, wires freaking everywhere.

u/sadistic_angel · 2 pointsr/MSILaptops

so wait, you're using a single, 4 band 3.5mm headset, and trying to plug into the headphone jack?

You'll need a splitter, but not just a regular headphone splitter, something like this which specifically splits out the inline mic from the headphones.

edit: this one is cheaper and has higher reviews

u/malvinvnv · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If I'm not wrong, the ATH usually provides their headphones with cables that have a combo jack. Might wanna check their specs sheets first, and if it has, just get the M40 and some splitter

EDIT: Right, they don't. How about the M40x and This cable?

Add in some splitter as well and I'm sure you're good to go.

So in total, the headphone, cable, and splitter will cost you $100, which is just on budget

u/KadenTau · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Pretty good mic. I bought these this week, and I have to say it's the best headset I've had in a long time, if not ever. Great sound, good seal around the ears, minimal external noise, lightweight (like they aren't kidding when they say "Cloud"), really comfy on the ears too, and I got a large head and equally large ears. Super comfy. The only thing bad about it is the inline soundcard. The 7.1 is a little meh, else it's pretty good.

This is one of those headsets with a 4-pin 3.5mm, so I'd recommend getting a splitter if you have a good soundcard that you'd rather use. I bought this one and it does the job perfectly, though it's a little short altogether, but fine if you use your front panel ports.

u/SinnerOfAttention · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like you're only using and audio splitter. You need a mic/audio splitter as seen in link below. Also realize that for 3.5mm there are certain pinout type for mono/stereo/stereo with mic configurations.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GNHSL8C/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

Also there are some for half that price or cheaper... just search "audio mic splitter"

u/tico42 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You will need one of these. I have this one and I highly recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNHSL8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/blindeye13 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You need to get one of these type. I currently have that one and I swap between the usb sound card and analog. The usb sound card isn't broken btw it's just controlling the volume with its own software seperate from windows. The mic being low is just a random defect I think some have.

u/Computerknight54 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I think this is what you're looking for. I believe the one you linked is for sharing a connection with two headsets, not merging two different inputs.

u/nsxviper · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

You have different options.

If your Beats has a removable headphone wire.
V-Moda BoomPro add-on Mic.

If your Beats doesn't have a removable headphone wire.

Antlion Mod Mic Unidirectional

Antlion Mod Mic Omnidirectional

If you want to use the Zalman or Antlion mic, you need to purchase a splitter.

Sennheiser Splitter

USB Headphone/Mic Adapter, requires USB extension cable

u/mannequinz · 2 pointsr/xboxone

For the Xbox I use HiFi Man HE400S with a ModMic and a splitter. All of that plugged into the stereo adapter for the controller. No need for the splitter on the PC obviously.

Also, here is a good place to start looking for new headphones/headsets.

u/Bambambm · 2 pointsr/Vive

> Sennheiser Game Zero headseT

You may not need extention cables, the Vive comes with a headset port on the head display, it comes out over the top strap, you will need an adapter though for the 2 to 1

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IM36VU0&pd_rd_r=1ZK52ZWYNDQY0B7GXR5T&pd_rd_w=oYe9V&pd_rd_wg=ev7BE&psc=1&refRID=1ZK52ZWYNDQY0B7GXR5T

u/massdrop · 2 pointsr/u_massdrop

We do ship to Australia, and you'll need a Y-connector like this. A generic version of that cable would generally be cheaper and work just as well.

u/LifelongCaboose · 2 pointsr/Gaming_Headsets

The Zeros are a closed back design and come with a case and cost more. The Game Ones are way better because of the open back design but if you game in a loud environment you will be able to hear it all through the headset and people around you can some what hear what your listening too. Open Back offers better sound stage for the best audio positioning but have no sound isolation. I never buy headsets used for many reasons. For some reason the White game ones are usually cheaper and if you order from Amazon just make sure it's shipped and sold by Amazon and not a third party company. Also they should fit fine over your glasses. Since it's a headset designed for PC it uses a 3.5mm mic and 3.5mm audio jacks. So for the Xbox One and laptops you will need an adapter Sennheiser sells one I will link it. Also for Xbox one I would waste your money on one of the Adapters just go for a new Xbox One controller that has a 3.5mm combo Jack.

Game One White

Game Zero Black

Sennheiser Adapter

As for issues with them on Xbox One in my testing I didn't encounter any. Besides the fact they can't be turned up to extremely loud volumes because of there semi high impedance(for a headset). Your MacBooks on board audio should be fine. When you build a PC don't cheap out and get a cheap Motherboard because the On board audio on cheaper boards may not be able to run the this headset well.


u/RainingMartians · 2 pointsr/PS4Planetside2

I use the ($60) [Logitech G430] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104847) w/ Sennheiser Splitter cable, it really needs a splitter as audio is too low without. As for features, it sounds like any other headset nothing special, but it is more comfortable with it's softer earcups. I heard of someone using an adapter from turtle beach to get full 7.1 out of them as they are advertised to offer 7.1, but only on PC. I've never tried adapter on PS4:




But, I also heard alot of good things about HyperX, I think this is their first gen pair($68)

And last but not least the PC fav,Kraken($70)



A bit of advice on any headphones you choose(if you plan to use microphone function), you would do well to have some audio splitter cable as audio improves dramatically. For example, my G430 came with an adapter that ran through USB, but audio was so low it was worthless. Also, pretty much any headphones should work on PS4 with an adapter or Splitter cable, but splitter is a better solution, just stay away....far away from anything branded "StarTech" as they are usually recommended or shown "bought together" on Amazon, they seem perfect cuz their cheap, but I used a splitter adapter from them and it was DOA.

u/About7fish · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Yeah, it's built to accommodate TRRS plugs, so if you have one wire for your headphones and microphone then it'll work just fine. But if you have a setup with two separate cords, you'll need a cable to join them. I use this, but it's neither the cheapest nor the only option available.

u/Mashable_Pixels · 2 pointsr/xboxone

> wired or wireless

All depends on monitor/desk gaming or living room/sofa gaming

> I have heard great things about the Sennheiser's but I like using mine for just regular headphones sometimes with my phone for music

You can use those Sennheiser's for that too It has separate audio (green) and mic (pink) jacks but a simple PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter combines the two (just an FYI, Astro include there own within the Mixamp) but I do admit its not as convenient for this usage compared to the dual threaded audio/mic cable that the Astro A40's use.

> Is the mic detachable on the Sennheisers?

Unfortunately no but it is the same kind of style as the Astro A50's mic, Meaning that to mute the mic you simply flip the mic up and that's why it is not detectable.

u/shanx057 · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Since you are gaming on the PS4, running a good headphone and modmic combo will require ONLY ONE of the following -

  1. A dac/amp with USB ($$$)
    Example - Creative G6 is $150. There are others but this is a good starting point.
  2. A splitter so you can connect the headphone and mic to your controller $)
    Example - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F4345XWFRIM0&keywords=sennheiser+splitter&qid=1556639491&s=gateway&sprefix=sennhei%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2
  3. USB soundcard compatible with the PS54 ($)
    Example - https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card

    Personally my current setup for PS4 is a Creative SoundBlasterX G6 dac/amp connected to a HD 600 and modmic 4.0. Extreme overkill headphones but I mainly use it on PC and the G6 allows me to effortless switch between the two. Also I don't like the audio out of the PS4 controller in general so I did not opt for that method.

    For $250 I would suggest getting a good set of cans and then using option 2 (splitter) or 3 (compatible usb sound card) to start with. If you don't like the audio quality, then move up to the dac/amp.

    Now coming to the closed back can's that you want, there are a few good options that come to mind (please note the order is not a ranking of preference, simply what came to mind first) :

  4. Beyerdynamic DT 770 32 Ohm- $180 on Amazon.com
  5. Sennheiser HD 569- $110 on Amazon.com
  6. Sennheiser HD 598 Cs- $ 150 on Amazon.com

    ​

    I would also wait a while for others in this subreddit to give you their choices in closedback headphones.
u/Ganondorf_Is_God · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I actually use a sennheiser pc headset and plug it into this which goes in a usb port.

You can also use this and plug it into the headset/mic port on the controller.

u/dunderwood · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I had a similar issue so I bought a new audio adapter and the problem was fixed.

u/sniper5566 · 2 pointsr/headphones

This is the adapter I use for my headphones with a mic on my ps4.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM36VU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KardnalSyn · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/WayneBrody · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I've got a Logitech G430 and I love it. Great surround sound, really good mic, and comfortable on your head. Reasonably priced at $80.

Its wired, so you'll be tethered to your PS4, but you can also get a little adapter which allows you to plug the mic into your PS4 controller.

u/Sorrowablaze3 · 2 pointsr/thedivision

I just have the optical audio from the xbox into the mixamp, and a usb from xbox to mixamp. The headset goes into a cord like this -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IM36VU0/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QUvxEpI3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1J61PFDAQB2KF3ZRW069

Which should have come with your mixamp, and that's it, mine worked right off.

I actually only just got this stuff this week, the Sennheiser's are awesome!

u/Ragadir · 2 pointsr/Yogscast

Of course they use professional hard- and software as everyone already said. But if you literally just want to use 2 headphones for the same audio source and without any adjustment options, a regular audio splitter for a few bucks is the cheapest option. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Compatible-Smartphones-Connector/dp/B00LM0ZGK6

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Silly me, i forgot the JBLs do not have RCA inputs.

This cable to split the output from the source:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/

​

This cable for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/


This cable for the subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I3CwDb0R2S5CH

u/JackSparrowUSA · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Cable

Would that work for what you need?

u/zaiahzaiah · 2 pointsr/OPZuser

UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable 3.5mm Male to 2 Port 3.5mm Female for Earphone, Headset Splitter Adapter, Compatible for iPhone, Samsung, LG, Tablets, MP3 Players, Metal Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TgvEDbH004M9Z

u/tmwrnj · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The cheap option is to buy a small mixer like the Behringer Xenyx 502 and use a splitter cable to provide two headphone outputs. Slightly more expensive would be to add a multi-channel headphone amplifier to the mixer, giving you independent volume controls for up to four sets of headphones.

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A 3.5mm audio splitter will do the trick. Just be careful as it will put the same level of audio output on the headphones as the speakers. Turn down Windows audio so you don't overdrive the headphones. You will need to increase the volume on your speakers to compensate.

u/samuraialien · 2 pointsr/Guitar

This should work. It's a 3.5 Y splitter. Plug the male end into the amp and connect the two female ends to your phone and headphones.

u/HashFunction · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

would something like this work for you?

u/braden26 · 2 pointsr/audio

Yes, you have two separate outputs, on for your sub and one for your speakers. You'll need a splitter that combines these two separate stereo channels into a single one. Then you can output a stereo signal to both your speakers and sub. This is what you need to combine the stereo channels.

u/zakabog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Do you have a splitter connected when you connect the headset to your PC or are you connecting using the same single 3.5mm connector you use for your phone? If you don't have a splitter, that's your issue. The 3.5mm connector from your headset is TRRS, which is what your phone supports and it carries both microphone and audio through one cable, your PC connection is TRS and has separate microphone and speaker ports.

u/warinthestars · 2 pointsr/audio
u/DatAssociate · 2 pointsr/audio

you need something like this

u/AV3Nguyen · 2 pointsr/headphones

It's likely because the jack on the EX14AP has one extra conductor (for the microphone) than the jack in the computer (which I assume you're using and that has separate headphone and microphone jacks). You could get a splitter like this which should fix the problem. Any decent looking adapter will do, just make sure it's TRRS female to dual TRS male. You don't need to have the microphone jack of the splitter plugged in btw.

u/Pendulum · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

You can use a TRRS splitter that separates the headphone signal from your mic signal. Here's an example. Note that you need one that goes TRRS female to TRS male. It'll probably be better to just get another pair of headphones though.

u/Switchen · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Correct. He would need a trrs to trs adapter/splitter.

u/AlexHeart · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I believe you have a trrs jack on the headset (4 gold sections). These carry both audio out and in. If they're plugged into a non trrs jack, then they just act as headphones, the audio out only.

The laptop has two standard 3.5 mm jacks, one for audio out, and another for audio in. You need a trrs splitter.

Attached is an example. I don't recommend this exact one, just the first I found on mobile. https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU

u/leftturney · 2 pointsr/xboxone

So it sounds like the headset has a 4 position connector on the end, is that right?

To determine that, count the black rings on the plug, there should be three.

You need to add a cable onto your headphones, one like this most likely. https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Separate-Microphone-Aluminum/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465496934&sr=8-2&keywords=4+position+female+to+mic+headphone

u/ITXorBust · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Wow, so many comments and no one has told you what to do.

Your computer expects a two or three ring microphone in the mic jack. The mic (the 2nd ring closest to the cable) is carrying the mic signal, but not touching anything in the mic port in your computer. You need one of these adapters. Take it, plug your turtle beach headset into that, and then plug just the mic jack into your mic port on your computer.

Happy gaming!

u/_vogonpoetry_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Carloth · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought this one for my desktop

Ugreen Headphone Splitter For Computer 3.5mm Female to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Cable Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_y6H3CwreXdJWM


The mic will only work if you use it through a phone (in my exp) without the splitter

u/cycle62831 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can get a 2 male -> 1 female headphone splitter which does the same thing. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_jKgmzb3GWZWM5

Edit: don't do this

u/RexKoeck · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You will have to get a splitter like this to go from the single plug to separate mic/speaker plugs.

u/Asuparagasu · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Nah, this is what you want

EDIT: it won't work

u/Piddles78 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You mean something like this?
UGREEN Mic Headphone Cable, Audio Microphone Splitter, CTIA Standard 3.5mm Female to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male Audio Mic Splitter for Speaker, Headphones, PC, Laptop, Aluminum connector 20cm (White) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_usJMDbHXCHEW2

u/RVUnknown · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey guys. I want to use both the speakers and the mic on my single jack headphones at the same time since I don't want to buy a separate microphone.

Now I'm aware that there are two separate 3.5mm jacks for the mic and headphone on my PC, so would using something like this solve my issue?

u/Nuisance_barge · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If your headset has a connector with three stripes you can plug it into your computer's headphone jack if you just want to use them as headphones, but if you want to use the speaker as well then you'll need an adapter like this. There might be better ones out there, this is just the first result on amazon.

u/I_play_drums_badly · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I think the problem might be because you are using a stereo (3 position) 3.5mm plug and the controller is designed for a stereo+mic (4 position) 3.5mm plug. Buying a splitter might solve your problem : https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

u/T-Shirt_Ninja · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If the cable does have an inline mic, and I'm assuming you're using that cable as the HD 569 does usually come with such a cable, you'll need one of these to split the single 3.5mm jack into two separate 2.5mm jacks; one will plug into the headphone port on your case or motherboard, and the other will plug into the mic port. On your laptop, the two ports are combined, but on desktops, they usually are separate.

u/Da_stranger · 2 pointsr/PS4Deals

Sure thing.

Game sound through headphones

  1. The Dualshock 4 controller has a 3.5mm jack built in, so all you really need to do is plug your headphones into the controller, hold down the "PS" button, go to audio, then select the option to output all audio to headphones. You can also adjust the volume within this menu. That's all you need to hear the game volume through your headphones. This is the simplest way to do it imo.

  2. Plug your headphones directly into your TV's headphone jack/aux out/audio out and adjust volume on tv. You will probably need something like this if your headphone's cable isn't long enough.

    If you want to use your headphones to hear the game noise and talk to friends with a mic then you have two options.

  3. Get a splitter like this, and a mic like this. Plug splitter directly into controller. Plug headphones into aux side of splitter, and plug mic into the mic side. Output all audio to headphones through the PS menu. That should be it.

  4. Plug your headphones into your Tv's audio out and your mic directly into the controller. Go to settings>devices>audio devices and output all audio to tv. If you unplug your mic, this setting will reset, and you'll have to go back and do it again.

    Hope this helped.

u/zypo88 · 2 pointsr/apexlegends

$10 Microphone

$6 adaptor

Plus your preferred pair of headphones.

Edit: a word

u/meest · 2 pointsr/livesound

Do you have a tip ring ring sleeve cable right now?

As others have said. The best way for this is to use an interface like a scarlet 2i2 or something similar.

Otherwise you need to figure out how your computer is sending audio out of the Jack and how it's wanting the audio back in the Jack.

You'll most likely need to get an adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jjFnDbZMF975V and then run the cables to the appropriate spot.

Don't be surprised if you get some wonderful buzzing in the audio. To avoid that, you guessed it. Get a better audio interface.

u/PuddingInTheThyme · 2 pointsr/headphones

With regards to what I mentioned in an edit above, it's up to you how far you want the spending to go.

Like I said, I think the adapter sounds pretty good with my HD 6XX. Your headset will have a lower impedance than mine and should work even better. I just wanted to point out that it is debatable whether or not this accomplishes audiophile-grade sound.

If you're happy with this middle-of-the-road solution then that is fine. Maybe you'd also be just as happy using a cable like this plugged into your Dualshock 4. It would be both simpler and cheaper. Personally when it comes to videogames I don't worry as much about the quality. I reserve my full-on pickiness for movies and music. :D

u/kf97mopa · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

The input function is still there on the headphone jack of my MBP, the 2016 model. They removed the optical audio, which I am still a little sore about, but audio in is still there. Have they removed it more recently? That sounds unlikely.

If it is still there, it should work with one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=pd_cp_23_4?pd_rd_w=QF6M4&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=CG7QP1SVPWKGCMEP7EBP&pd_rd_r=6b309705-a0c5-495b-a183-63b83ab312e0&pd_rd_wg=EBCfg&pd_rd_i=B01I3A47I4&psc=1&refRID=CG7QP1SVPWKGCMEP7EBP

u/brosephargon · 2 pointsr/xbox

I forgot I did something a while a back, and I actually had a splitter in my Amazon history.

Kingtop 3.5mm Combo Audio Adapter Cable PS4,Xbox One S,Tablet,Mobile Phone,PC Gaming Headsets New Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xn21BbX29Y1NK

If that doesn't work for you, then you might just have to get another pair of headphones

u/jasrajsokhi · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Another way is to simply bypass your interface. I have the xenyx 1202 (not fx ) and this is the method I use. You can split the single jack on your computer using this cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=y+splitter+head+mic&qid=1559124001&s=gateway&sr=8-6 )


And then use a RCA cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=rca+cable&qid=1559123966&s=gateway&sr=8-8 ) to connect the RCA out from your mixer to mic in port of the splitter cable into your mac.

u/AMysticalAlliance · 2 pointsr/ipad

Have you tried normal iPhone/Mobile earphones? The ones with 4 pins? iPads accept either 3 pin (headphone only) or 4 pin (headphones+mic) . You can't just plug in a dedicated mic into the iPad. You need to use a converter.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

u/burtchnasty · 2 pointsr/Blackops4

Logitech G430

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G430-Headphone-Cable-Sports-Performance/dp/B00CQ35C1Q

KingTop 3.5mm Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4?crid=3UIY57A36L30U&keywords=kingtop+3.5mm+combo+audio+adapter+cable+for+ps4%2Cxbox+one%2Ctablet&qid=1537115328&sprefix=kingtop&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1


Better headset than any Astro blah blah blah. These were designed for the PC Master race and transition well on Xbox. Thank me later 🤙🏼

Dont let the price fool you. These are a couple years old, but were a very expensive set of headphones when they were first released

u/WildCheese · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

technically two of these and a pair of aux cables would do the trick, but the levels will be funky and the mic in is mono.

you could get a cheap usb soundcard with line-in to record the audio from another device though, if you don't have a device with line-in already.

u/lilrick110 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is what you'll need to use for that. I've been using it with a logitech G430 PC headset for a few months now without any problems. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3A47I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has separate mic and headphone input, it also works on the newer 3.5mm jack controller.

u/Prospec7 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

there are two types of single 3.5mm theres OMTP (which is for older phones) and then theres CTIA (which is apples standard)

You need CTIA, I know on that page it says its ctia, but I'm pretty sure its actually OMTP because I ordered that same splitter but from the us amazon and it states that it doesnt work with apple/iphone devices

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3A47I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Leeous_ · 2 pointsr/discordapp

Sounds like you have a headset port. A headset port requires only one line-in to handle both audio and the microphone. Easy to get around though! All you need to a headset port splitter, very cheap and I believe most big retailers carry some form of them. Here's an example. There's also a chance that the back of your PC has two separate ports for your headset.

Edit: More info.

u/Togod5 · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Most over ears are going to be dissapointing at that price point, that is if they survive a week without breaking so id recommend getting some iems with an inline mic. The KZ ZSX, ZSN Pro or anything else really should be okay with a splitter for your laptop.

With the KZs though if the wire ever dies on you you could just get a replacement

u/MrColi · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Headset Splitter Cable for PC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the exact one I bought. You plug your headphones into one end, and then plug the other end into their respective headphone and mic ports on your pc.

u/Aspirant_Fool · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What kind of plugs do the headsets you're trying to use have on them? Some will use two TRS plugs, one for the speakers, one for the mic. Some will use a single TRRS plug for both the speakers and the mic.

There's a really good chance that your desktop PC only has TRS jacks and not TRRS, and if you plug a headset with a TRRS plug into a TRS jack, you'll usually get the behavior you've described. If that's the case here, you could use something like this to split your TRRS plug into two TRS plugs, but you might run into issues, because there are a couple different ways the TRRS plug on your headset might be wired.

u/kftgr2 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Only drawback is that you won't be able to hear other people. If you want that too, get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/

u/JurassicUtility1 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes, I unplugged the headphone jack from the USB soundcard. The cable splitter needed is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7FX0DbCHX1J9X

I also used a headphone extension cable, but if you go that route you need to make sure the connector is a four pole type, and not three pole.

u/throwaway1923791273 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/Thirty_Seventh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can just get a cheap headset splitter

u/mbze430 · 2 pointsr/steelseries

yes the mic still works exactly the same. it still have the same quality and isolation. I have looked at the manual for all three headsets. The Arctis Pro, Arctis Pro + GameDAC, Arctis Pro Wireless. They Arctis Pro + GameDAC and Wireless come with the same 3.5mm TRRS cable. The Arctis Pro comes with a "break-out" cable so it can either go with the TRRS or the Chatmix adapter. With that assumption they all should work EXACTLY the same

Yes you gonna need a TRRS CTIA splitter (Tip = Left, Ring 1 = Right, Ring 2 = Ground, Sleeve = Mic)

This is what I used, https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Or if you want to stick with SteelSeries products
https://steelseries.com/gaming-accessories/arctis-cable-dual-35mm-extension

u/KleyPlays · 2 pointsr/Guitar

When you speak into the mic it creates an analog waveform that is sent via the XLR cable into the interface. The interface provides a proper input to receive the signal. It uses a built in preamp (controlled by the gain knob) to boost / cut the signal. Then it converts it to a digital signal and sends it via USB to the computer.

Inside the computer you can do lots of things to the signal. You can send it to a standalone modeling app. You can send it to a DAW and record it. You can process it with VST plugins. Lots of things.

From here each program can do its own thing in terms of output. I don't know how the POD Farm standalone works, but I know that a DAW will require you to specify a driver and a device. That's the preferences ASIO UX2 thing you're talking about. This means that Reason is receiving input AND sending output through this device. So if your headphones and speakers are connected to your PC and not the UX2 then they won't do anything. The PC is its own separate soundcard with its own set of drivers (Realtek HD).

Sounds like POD Farm is sending it out from your Realtek soundcard. But in my experience DAWs want uniformity of one device for input and output.

I'm guessing your speakers and headphones have a 3.5mm cable. Your UX2 is 1/4". You can get an adaptor like this and simply run them through the UX2. Then set the UX2 as your soundcard across everything - your DAW, the standalone app, and the Windows sound setting.

u/Chaos_Klaus · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Depending on your playback device you may need adapters for the outputs on the back.

If your speakers have a (2x) cinch input, you need adapters like these. If they have a 3.5mm TRS plug, you'll need something like this.

If you have headphones that have a 3.5mm plug instead of 6.35mm, you'll need an adapter like this one.

You'll also need an XLR cable to connect your mic and possibly a pop filter for recording vocals. The AT2020 is often sold as a bundle with both.

Here is also a bundle with a boom arm (of questionable quality).

u/Yeargdribble · 2 pointsr/piano

I've got two MA-30s lying around because one was my wife's before we were married. We've been married 7 years. Though they've seen less use in recent years, they have definitely been through the long haul. I know that I've shattered mine against the wall at least a few times in that period out of utter frustration (unhappy things happen in practice rooms sometimes). I just located the batteries and snapped it back together it and it's still ticking all these years later.

Yeah, you can run it through the keyboard. You'll need a 1/8" cable and a 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor (I think one came with my Privia and I have several lying around so you might too). Just connect one end of the 1/8" cable to your metronome and the other one (via adaptor) to the line in on your keyboard.

And for the record, I'm not necessarily recommending any of those particular bits. I just thought I'd throw links up to clarify the equipment needed. Those prices are bad, but you can almost always do better at http://www.monoprice.com/ for ANY sort of cables you need. ... Seriously, if you ever need an HDMI cable, get it on Monoprice.

u/NoWarsNoKings · 2 pointsr/audio

You can get one of these for each and it will solve the problem.
The reason it is 1/4" TRS most of the time is because most studio headphones, where you need headphone amps the most, have a 1/4" end.

u/NSAsurveillanceteam · 2 pointsr/piano

Here is an adaptor. I'm not a PC gamer so I don't know how long the cable is, but I would say to have at least 4-5 feet of headphone cord available. This is because most keyboards have the headphone jack on the backside and a regular cable can be very annoying.

u/tidikiki · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You could try connecting both amps to a female to 2 male stereo y cable, then connecting that to a male to 2 female stereo y cable, then connecting headphones into the 2 available female jacks.

If your amp only has a 1/4" output jack then you can get 2 3.5mm to 1.4" adapters as well.

I use a 2 male to 1 female y splitter so I can connect to my amp and my computer at the same time so I can play along to songs off my computer and it works flawlessly.

u/lastdukestreetking · 2 pointsr/travel

I'm not saying "get this specific one", but I always travel with something like this.

Yeah, it's a small brick, but it doesn't take up all that room. It'll have the right plugs for any international outlet, and it has USB connections as well....so, you could charge your phone (via USB), your travel battery (via USB), and your camera battery (via plug) at the same time.

I travel with a lot of electronics, so I also travel with a mini-travel power strip like this (again, I'm not saying "buy this one", just that it's an example of something I travel with), so that I can charge multiple plugs and multiple USBs at the same time.

The small brick for the outlets and the small travel power strip really don't take up much room at all, and they ensure that I can charge all my devices no matter the destination. All I need is one outlet, and I can charge something like 5 devices via USB and plugs.

u/billatq · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Not if you buy one for this purpose, such as this folding travel one: http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M

u/FourthBridge · 2 pointsr/JapanTravel

Regarding your last point, it's always a good idea to bring a compact power strip with you when travelling. Something like this or this, though you may need a 3-prong to 2-prong converter for some places in Japan. They are great for nights when you have to charge multiple devices and make you a hero at airports.

u/kickstand · 2 pointsr/travel

Traveling with a power-strip is an old trick for avoiding to carry multiple plug adaptors, but going from the US to Europe you need to be a little careful.

Electricity in the US is ~110 volts, whilst in much of the rest of the world it's 200-250 volts.

Although power boards/power strips are generally passive, and thus the number of volts should not have any impact, many of them do include various types of fuses or additional circuitry (eg, USB ports) that could potentially have issues with higher voltages. If you were to plug multiple high-current devices into a power board (eg, a hair dryer) it's also possible that you could draw more watts than the board is designed to support.

There are a few products that are specifically designed for travel, and designed to support both 110 and 240 volts, such as the Monster Outlets to Go range (Note: Amazon doesn't say it, but the manufacturer has confirmed that these items are designed for up to 250 volts)

source

TLDR: Don't use a US power strip in Europe/UK unless you specifically read a review that says that particular model is OK.

u/summiter · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

here's the one i use. Very simple and robust.

u/mattbuford · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

What I do is bring something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7FMY3U/

It isn't universal, but most trips only cover one or two styles of plug anyway so I just take what I need for that trip. This single-style adapter is smaller and lighter than a universal adapter, and if you look at the picture you'll notice that they have output connectors on both the front and the bottom. This means I can insert my adapter in-between any existing occupied outlet. This is great at places like an airport, where you might be trying to crowd around a few limited outlets.

If I'm not traveling light (only phone and tablet) then I then also carry a small travel power strip, like the one below, so that I can have more outlets for things like my laptop:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F9YN2M/

u/Testiculese · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I have a few of these scattered in various travel bags.

u/jaba1337 · 2 pointsr/audio

You need something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Techlink-WiresNX-Toslink-Optical-Adaptor/dp/B001C5R98S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1317958032&sr=8-4 which will plug into the black jack on your sound card. Then just get a standard optical toslink cable ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Frustration-Free-Packaging/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_tr_sr_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317958103&sr=8-1 ), put that adapter onto it and plug the other end into the z-5500's optical port. This is how my laptop works, the optical is built into the headphone jack and is activated when i choose the digital option in the control panel. You can usually see the red light coming out of the jack when the digital is activated.

u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/headphones

The high gain is really only necessary if you have insanely high impedance, but the normal gain should be fine for the 650s. The balanced triodes means that each of the triodes in the tube will have the same gain through the connection. Could be nice assurance if you want to shell another $2. Low noise and microphonics is nice to have as well.

I do use that kind of a cable, but mostly because adding USB costs money on the Bifrost than just accepting with optical, and a much cheaper one (digital is digital) here. But if you're connecting out of your MBP, you'll need a mini-TOSLINK to regular optical cable (the headphone jack is an optical combo port), like this.

u/shadyinternets · 2 pointsr/audiophile

unless you got the optical modi. then you need TOS optical cable (if they dont include it of course, and a quick search didnt tell me whether it does or not...)

something like,
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_cp_MI_3

u/Ethari · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

I'm not sure what price range you're looking for, but the plantronics rig headset may be solid for what you're looking for. You'll need to buy a digital optical cable as well to hook it up to the ps4 audio, but it allows for selection of one or both audio sources and dynamic volume controls for both audio sources.

Trailer
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS2AG_6jciw

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-Xbox-360/dp/B00EV00MZ8

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW

Edit: Thanks for the gold!!

u/zim2411 · 2 pointsr/projectors

If you have the PS3 AV cables I think you can get away with just using a physical adapter. If not, you can use a DAC to decode the optical audio output into a usable analog stereo signal. This is the cheapest standalone DAC I know of: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6

You would need an optical cable as well: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_y

Note that this has somewhat limited use though. If you're looking to add more components to your system you may want to look at an HDMI audio extractor instead with an HDMI switcher. The best option is an AV receiver but you would need to by home theater speakers as well which is a much bigger overall investment.

u/bullix36 · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/phayd · 2 pointsr/xboxone

It sounds, from the symptoms, that there's an issue with your X1 encoding the audio and passing it on to the TV via HDMI.

I'd try swapping HDMI cables to eliminate that possibility, since that's the easiest/cheapest thing to check.

If no luck, then you'll need to run a Fiber Optics from X1 to Soundbar and bypass the TV. This is more than likely the point of failure.

If it works, then the problem was probably the X1 -HDMI- TV region. Most likely some issue with the X1 audio encoding for HDMI.

[Here you can get a 10' Fiber Optic cable for $8](
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418154939&sr=8-1&keywords=Fiber+Optic+Cable)


u/Zilveari · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Then you can try something like this. Optical audio is a digital audio format that uses a fiber optic cable to carry the audio signal. This type of device will split the audio stream off from the incoming HDMI, and output it through the optical cable, which you can then plug into the SPDIF/optical input in your projector.

This is an example of an optical audio cable that you would need.

u/DaveFalcon73 · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/LeFemur · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I use HDMI to DVI as well. The only things you would need are a Digital Optical Audio Cable, to run from the Xbox to the converter & depending on what type of speakers you have, some sort of RCA cable adapter.

u/maxedfx · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Amazon or newegg!
Edit: link
http://amzn.com/B001TH7GSW

u/abw · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO are excellent at $125 on Amazon, or the older model (slightly less excellent but still very good) is the Sennheiser HD280 PRO which Amazon is selling at $78.

They're both studio quality headphones which provide a flat response suitable for mixing (although I'm sure you know it's no substitute for mixing with decent monitors in a treated room). If you just want something to listen to your music and you're not too worried about an accurate frequency response then something cheaper will do fine.

Sennheiser and AKG are the two brands that I would personally recommend.

u/iTrolling · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I recommend either Sennheiser HD 380 Pro or Sennheiser HD 280 Pro.

I like the 380's over the 280's and I have worn both extensively. On the 280's the main drawback is the tightness of band on the ears; after extended use is can hurt taking them off. The tightness does come with some benefit though; it almost creates a vacuum environment that block outsides sound from leaking in... almost noise cancelling. The 380's have a lighter grip and a lighter construction overall. They do not weigh down on my head as much nor grip as strong as the 280's. Of course, that means sound from the outside does leak in a bit, especially at low volumes, but little can be heard once the volume is turned up. I can wear the 380s for hours, and feel so comfortable I have barely feel them on.

You're probably going to need a microphone as well; I like to stick with the Zalman clip on. I attach it directly to the headphone cord and works great!

As a side note, both of these headphones will need to be burned in to really notice the quality. I work with the 380's for music production and music listening as well. They are really versatile headphones.

u/jmb-412 · 2 pointsr/Metalcore

Without a doubt Sennheiser HD 380 Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-380-PRO-Headphones/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466890254&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+hd+380

I've owned Audio Technica ATH M50s, and the 380 Pro's are much better.

u/JustDaniel96 · 2 pointsr/italy

Sennheiser HD380 PRO e non te ne pentirai. Sono fantastiche, le tieni ore senza rendertene conto

u/ADCfill886 · 2 pointsr/cscareerquestions

So I wasn't sure either, so here's the pathway that I took:

  1. I first bought this pair of wireless Bluetooth headphones because I wanted something on-the-go, and it was "decently noise isolating". They broke pretty quickly, but were never comfortable (which is a big factor) after 4-5 hours, and were not the best in terms of noise isolation or in terms of sound quality.

  2. After they finally kicked the bucket, I bought this pair of headphones, which apparently DJs use at clubs and whatnot. While they were comfortable, I found that my ears would sweat in them (because they were closed binaural, so not noise cancelling, but still really hard to "breathe" in, if that makes sense). Sound quality was decent, but I really wanted something better.

    Then I ended up with the Bose headphones.

    I gotta say though, it was the best $300 I've ever invested in myself. If I had to recommend any/ headphones for a loud work environment, it'd be those ones. I put them on and I'm in another world -- no other set of cans I've tried before these has come close in terms of noise cancellation.

    I did a lot of research for myself though, you might not want to spend that much if you have a smaller budget. My budget stopped mattering after I spent $200 on the HD 380 Pro and realized it was only a "decent" pair of headphones. :\
u/mountainman710 · 2 pointsr/headphones

For electronic music (I listen to 90% drum and bass, and also great sound for games, I cannot recommend the sennheiser HD-380 pro. The bass extension into the sub bass is fantastic, much better than my HD650. It fits all of your needs, except it is closed and has a lot of isolation.

There are plenty of reviews on amazon that express how they enjoy the hd380 over the ATH-M50x.

I find the isolation great for gaming, especially in shooters because it blocks out the external noise and allows you to hear footsteps perfectly in their correct direction.

It has a neutral signature which makes it a great overall headphone. I broke my first pair because I left it on the floor, and immediately replaced it.

Great for movies as well. Explosions really rumble thanks to the fabulous bass extension. But the audible bass isn't bloated, it flows smoothly into the great midrange.

The HD598 is more purely a musical headphone. It has a 1/4" jack which is made more high end home audio. While the hd 380 pro has a standard 3.5mm jack which will fit in your computer's soundcard.
The hd 380 pro also has bigger earcups, which I find comfortable because my ears hurt if the cups rest on them or touch them.

I bought them for full retail in 2010 for $200 and they were definitely worth the price. Now they are $150 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-380-PRO-Headphones/dp/B001UE6I0G

u/Go0n · 2 pointsr/cybermonday

$99 Sennheiser HD 598's. List price is 315 but you can almost always get them for about 250. 216 right now.

If you're looking to use them in an office/travel environment the open-back design on the HD 598's are not ideal. The Sennheiser HD-380's are available at $115 so far today (200 list, 150 normal, 115 on Friday) - closed back (less sound leakage), more conservative styling, and near universal praise.

u/ediskrad73 · 2 pointsr/chvrches

i have a pair of Sennheiser HD 380 Pros and I cannot recommend them enough.

u/Zimfan · 2 pointsr/headphones

Sennheiser HD 380's are great. They fold flat, have a great comfy design, and are well balanced. They sound amazing from my laptop. I have to boost the bass when playing from an iPod, but my iPod will drive them well. Very distinct sounding mids and highs, and great sub-bass that isn't overpowered.

The price on amazon is 145, but will vary from day to day:

only downside is the coiled cable which limits portability. I found a decent way to replace the cable and can tell you what you can get to replace it for cheap if you are interested

u/maefju · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

FALSE!
got a pair sennheiser pc 350 http://www.amazon.de/Sennheiser-PC-350-Premium-ohrumschlie%C3%9Fend/dp/B0012XFDWO

and a pair of sennheiser pc 380 hd http://www.amazon.de/Sennheiser-HD-380-Pro-Kopfh%C3%B6rer/dp/B001UE6I0G

the hd380 pro are so much better, its not comparable

u/Brakkio · 2 pointsr/headphones

Are these available for you? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE6I0G/

you might want to look into them.

u/PoopSmearedFist · 2 pointsr/headphones

I have a pair of those Senns and I really like them. They are my first pair of real headphones, so take my advice with a grain of salt, though. I listen to a wide variety of music from jazz to metal to electronic to hip hop. I decided on buying the Sennheisers because of their flat, neutral sound, outstanding customer service reputation, and the desire for closed, over-ear headphones.

I bought mine through Amazon refurbished for $108 (shipping included), instead of the MSRP of $200. Here is the link to the seller.

u/R3T1CAL · 2 pointsr/xboxone

PC's use separate 3.5mm plugs for mic IN and headphones/audio out.

So you need this:

http://smile.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-01-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=smi_www_rcolv2_go_smi?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

just make sure whatever you get supports CTIA 3.5mm jacks.

BTW I think some PCs (like macs) have a dual in/out plug.

u/zeug666 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The names for those is TRS (regular) and TRRS (Apple). Those stand for Tip, Ring, (Ring - Apple), Sleeve, which describes the connector.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRRS

I believe they sell splitters for the TRRS connectors, but they cost a bit more. That was the only one I found that mentioned a mic pass-through.

What OP grabbed is to split signals (like I link just above), in order to separate the signals OP would need to get a different type of cable, like this one.

(above links are just examples)

u/jcolts23 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah, you'll need one of these

u/Sarting · 2 pointsr/techsupport

These headphone devices that are used on cell phones won't work the way you expect them to on PCs. You will have to get an adapter like THIS

u/igeekone · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You'll need one of these. Smartphone Headset to PC Adapter

u/StevesRealAccount · 2 pointsr/iphone

Headset Buddy Adapter, assuming you mean a laptop that's not a Mac.

u/stationarytransient · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

Man, did your description make my head hurt...

Then it clicked in my head. It sounds like you just need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG

u/Lucky137 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Shouldn't need to go that far. Most temp controllers out there have their own temp probes that dangle inside the keezer, and the keezer is plugged into the temp controller. This allows the temp controller to decided when to cycle the keezer on and off. I have one of these and it works great. Easy to set up too!

u/n0esc · 2 pointsr/food

Here is another alternative. Usually used to turn a freezer into a kegerator, it needs to be opened and set to heat mode but otherwise is a good sous vide controller as well. Only about $75.

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776848&sr=8-1&keywords=johnson+controls+a419

u/uberphaser · 2 pointsr/Charcuterie

This is the project I'm completing this weekend

Just FYI, a lot of the controls that are listed on the web sites are either out of production, or just not available. After trying to chase down a few products that are still listed on websites but not available, I found these two essentials to be the best value with rock-solid reputations:

Temp Control

Humidity Control

I called about a dozen hydroponics stores looking for the Titan EOS2, but it's discontinued and every place that had them in stock no longer does. The LTL is comparable, and the folks who make it are reputable.

The humidifier that everyone pretty much agrees on is this guy

u/TheFunkyMonk · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Yes, if you look in the back right of the collar on the second to last picture with the lid open, you can see where I'm running the probe of my temperature control unit. The hole it's running through is sealed with the same silicone sealant I'm using to fix the collar to the base of the freezer.

I've got the digital control mounted on the right side outside of my freezer, and the basic idea is I set the internal temperature I want the unit's probe to pick up inside the freezer, and it only turns on the freezer when it needs to in order to maintain that temperature. The freezer is plugged into the temperature control unit, and then the unit into the wall so it can bypass the AC.

u/brycebgood · 2 pointsr/Hunting

Craigslist freezer - we chose upright for vertical space. Chest freezer might work - but you would have to figure out how to hang in it.

Temperature controller - there are lots of options. This one is the Johnson 419. You plug it into the wall then plug the freezer into the female lead. It cycles the freezer on and off at the set temperature. There are cheaper options - but I had this one laying around. I'll link some suggestions below.

The fan is a computer fan with speed switch. I wired it to an old 12v wall wort I had laying around in the parts bin.

Meat hooks are just stainless hooks - again from amazon.



Temp controllers:
Johnson - https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SG7X9CB5Z0VYY8RM7EVB

If you're comfortable with electricity:
https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-2&keywords=temperature+control

Best deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fermentation/dp/B015E2UFGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+control



Meat hooks:
https://www.amazon.com/Meat-Hooks-Inch-Pack-Pieces/dp/B0195CE08Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133886&sr=8-3&keywords=meat+hooks



Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-TriCool-DBB-Cooling-3-Speed/dp/B00066ISES/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133824&sr=8-5&keywords=speed+fan+computer

u/snarebyte · 2 pointsr/firewater
  1. Currently it is air cooled. We ran the first batch through last night, and though the everything eventually heated up it still worked fine. We are going to make a water condenser to pull the heat from the run off pipe next.

  2. We built this one with almost no planning, just going with the next ogical piece in the sequence. I can go through and draw up what we used for each section if that is something that you guys want.

  3. There is no emergency pressure release because it is an open system. Unless all the sugar in the mash gets carried up into the bottle neck of the condensing coil, there should be no pressure. You could argue that the clamps sealing the tower to the keg could be considered an emergency release.

  4. We have a 4500W heating element attached through the side of the keg controlled by a variable speed fan controller. We are going to upgrade that to a more sophisticated controller, probably this.
u/theralphy · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

after reading through this thread, a couple people referenced the Johnson control units.
seems fairly simple to regulate the fridges temp this way.

u/unitconversion · 2 pointsr/DIY

Would the size matter if you used an external thermostat like this?

Edit: I can't copy right. Also, upon further investigation of the coolbot (which at first glance appeard to be just a how to for using a/c for refrig) it does the same thing only more.

u/demyst · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I am also a confused individual, and hope you wouldn't mind answering a question/give a little more info.

I've been looking into getting a temp controller. I plan on either converting a large chest freezer, or picking up a fridge or something similar off craigslist into a fermentation chamber. I had seen this mentioned previously. From what I understand, the freezer plugs into the thermometer (or the thermometer controls the fridge somehow) and the temp probe turns it off and on according to which temperature you set.
does the STC-1000 do the same thing? It looks as if you need to rewire a portion of the fridge to the new controller. Which sounds difficult at first, but does not look much more complicated than a thermostat used in houses. Could a dummy such as myself do it?

u/machinehead933 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

5 kegs is a lot, I think you'll need a 7+ cubic foot freezer for that, but I'm not sure. This thread should help you figure that out though.

> How do people keep it from freezing the beer?

Temperature control. You can buy a Ranco or Johnson Controls temperature controller. You can also get away with it for free if you have some patience by messing with the internal thermostat.

> When you keg do you still need to add priming sugar? or is the co2 there for the "force carbonate"? or are those two different processes?

You can still use priming sugar if you really want, but there's no reason to, other than (I guess) saving some CO2.

Force carbing is when you jack up the pressure real high for a few days, then lower to serving pressure. It's a way to quickly carb up your brew if you are on a tight timetable for some reason.

The normal way to do it would be to set your keg to a certain pressure, and wait a week to 10 days. Over time, the CO2 will normalize inside the keg and will be absorbed into the beer so its ready to serve.

u/grumpman · 2 pointsr/backpacking

Looks like an upgraded version of a Jetboil. Nice, I guess if you didn't already have a stove/container system. For 6 bucks you could get a Pocket rocket knock-off. That and a piece of aluminum foil for a wind screen, and while not as efficient, it would get the job done a LOT cheaper.

u/mrcrontab · 2 pointsr/backpacking

7 bucks -- I know a few people that grabbed this and it works fine

u/bdh008 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Woo! Added a while back too!

u/DioTheory · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Bam! $6.78!! :D

It'd be super useful for hiking, too!

Edit: Hilariously, I was browsing through amazon's suggestions for me and found this just before I saw this contest! XD

EDIT AGAIN: Ooh poop, added before today?? In that case, I've got this tea on my Silly Fun Wishlist that's $6.80! :D

u/cftvgybhu · 1 pointr/techsupport

Here you go: Rolls RA102 10-Channel Expandable Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026K0836/

Takes 1 analog input, outputs to 10 headphones. You may need to adapt from the 1/4" jacks to 3.5mm depending on your headphones. Hosa GPM-103 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3T/

Don't use passive (non-powered) headphone splitters. With 10 phones connected the signal will degrade/may not even power the phones.

USB headphones will not work for your purpose because each one is seen as a unique device. Windows will only output to one device at a time.

u/whatcolorwasit · 1 pointr/Guitar

Just get an electric and a little mic-pre. If you need to hear yourself better, run the guitar into the mic-pre(tube preferably) and then you can plug in headphones, speakers, powered speakers (like computer speakers), or even an amp (a tube pre will really warm up a shitty SS amp), and more importantly a computer or 4-track (or whatever recording interface you're using). In my book they're a must have, obviously if you ever start recording you'll want one anyway, but keep in mind recording yourself is an easy alternative to jamming with someone and a really great way to practice and write.

I'd recommend this:

be careful though this one doesn't have a power supply, so you'll have to go to goodwill and dig around through their chords and stuff, but that model was a really good one and thats a steal.

here's another steal

If you get one of these you'll need a TRS to Headphone adapter to get your headphones hooked up to it, and to hook it to a computer, but at any rate having this kind of adapter is also a must have if you're starting to fool around with music.

So, basically spend most of your budget on a good guitar first and foremost, don't buy a "beginner" guitar, take a friend that knows about guitars to help you or do some research, but always buy used. you won't really even need an amp to start practicing, but go ahead and look for a good, but inexpensive mic-pre like i've shown, so you can hear yourself better.


Keep in mind that if you get the right guitar and take care of it, it will hold its value, and you'll be able to trade up later (maybe even get more than you paid).

Then save your money and when you're ready to get loud get a good amp, then get an accoustic.

u/WeLoveJuice · 1 pointr/audioengineering

No one's mentioned the bias power required by the electret mic element. These types of mics require +3 to 9 VDC to power the FET inside the mic. This voltage is usually supplied by the computer's Mic Input jack. (also supplied by phone's headphone jack on a TRRS connection). The headphone jack can just be adapter to 1/4 inch and use the headphone output of the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5-inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1475092197&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F8+to+1%2F4)

A direct connection (passive) XLR adapter will not work, and if you turn on Phantom Power from the mixer you may damage the mic.

The Rode VXLR has a battery in it, so the passive adapter still works. You need something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phantom-Power-Adapter-for-Sennheiser-3-5mm-Jack-Lapel-Lavalier-Microphones-/291526821026?hash=item43e05a44a2:g:ZyoAAOSwDNdVuW99

It takes 48V Phantom power from the Focusrite (or whichever mixer you use) and adapts it to the 3VDC you need to run the mic. Plus is does the connector change too. Now this one is a Chinese knock off, and sold to work with Sennheiser mics which come with 1/8 connectors, so no guarantee.

Also, I don't have a recommendation for anything cheeper than the Focusrite, but they make 'em. It really depends how many setups like this you'll be running at one time. If its just one, and you don't really care about high end voice quality, then there's ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=pd_lpo_267_lp_img_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCHZQ7YJFT6Z4EQKCVKA

u/Fox_Smith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you really want to go Audiophile, i would suggest you this sweet little interface:

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417115084&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+interface

In order to use it with your headphone, and this is the tricky and important part, you would also need these cables/adapters:

http://www.amazon.com/Estone-3-5mm-Female-Splitter-Extension/dp/B00IWNIZFE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CA9BXT0GC3DRACNXPE7

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417116358&sr=8-2&keywords=trs+3.5+to

With this setup you would gain the best possible sound quality (In AND Out) possible with your headset and it should also boost the level of your mic, so no longer software mic boosts which sound terrible. You could also upgrade later to better microphones, or plug in an instrument. Also you can attach Speakers and switch between them and the Headphone outlet, and the 2 even got different Volume settings! It has a really really really low latency (around 2-4ms) and can output at studio quality (96khZ, 24 bit) And before plugin in your mic be sure to turn off phantom voltage, otherwise you will grill your mic!

u/CZbwoi · 1 pointr/audio

So would this be a good deal to do? Everything will work ok?

u/MeltDown52 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I have this one, it hasn't given me any problems

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPM-103-3-5mm-TRS-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3T

you can use it with the interface and put it in the mic port

u/6i9 · 1 pointr/Guitar

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you need one of these adapters and one of these cables

u/BaC0nz13 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Do these look alright?

u/Pyroraptor · 1 pointr/letsplay

I believe it's "OMTP" not "OTMP"

For those confused, here is a diagram showing what a TRRS plug looks like. It stands for Tip Ring Ring Sleeve, and allows for both stereo audio and a mic to be on a single plug. Your phones probably have one installed. The problem is that most TRRS applications are CTIA, not OMTP. Therefore most splitters won't split the audio right. That's because the ground on OMTP is in the Sleeve, not one of the rings.

An adapter will allow you to switch from CTIA to OMTP and from OMTP to CTIA. You can get them for a few bucks on Amazon as well. Then you just need a TRRS to dual TRS splitter and some 1/8 TRS to 1/4 TRS adapters.

Better yet if you could find a 1/8 TRRS to dual 1/4 TRS splitter, but I couldn't find one :/

u/Pnume · 1 pointr/headphones

EMI? Sorry, but I'm not sure what that stands for . . .

Yes, I think it probably is due time I get myself a good external DAC, though I really wish I could get this Xonar U3 to work properly for the time being as I'm rather broke at the moment and would rather not spend money on non-necessities. For a while now I've had the Scarlett 2i2 interface on my 'To Buy' list. If I had that I'd upgrade my mic to something better than the ModMic, but there would still be instances where I'd use the ModMic. I imagine this adapter is what I'd need to hook up the ModMic to one of the Scarlett's two front panel microphone inputs, eh?

u/CallingYouOut2 · 1 pointr/travel

Yeah, I do almost the same I have this travel power strip that goes everywhere with me. Works great for the airport when I need a plug and they're all occupied. I can usually ask someone to share, and never been refused.

u/pobody · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I have this one, if you can find it somewhere I recommend it. Small enough to carry everywhere and can be very handy.

u/blueman541 · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

I have other things that need regular power outlet like my camera battery charger, laptop etc. Was hoping to find something all in one to avoid bringing multiple usb-c power adapter. Guess I could just use USB A-C and not have fast charging.

maybe this http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M if I need to get around furniture blocking outlets

u/Aww_Shucks · 1 pointr/consulting

Portable power strip

The 3oz. Gotoobs are really nice too if you prefer to use your own shampoo and soap rather than the hotels'. They also come in handy for camping trips and whatnot.

If you're comfortable asking for a more expensive item (then again these don't always have to be expensive; plenty of professionals rock free company bags, Samsonite bags, etc. as opposed to Tumi or something) , a professional laptop briefcase might be handy. Not sure what size your company laptop is/will be, but it's nice having the briefcase when you need it as opposed to a backpack.

Also if anyone has any recommendations on USB external monitors, I'd love to hear them. A few co-workers of mine have Lenovo ones, but since I last searched, I couldn't find any for sale.

u/Brittanymaria423 · 1 pointr/travel

I also really love this power strip, and it is especially helpful when staying in hostel dorm rooms. There are four outlets to charge stuff.

http://www.amazon.ca/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450466408&sr=8-1&keywords=four+outlet+power+bar

u/reggie14 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Yeah, I have a couple of those I really liked the concept, but I get terrible capacitor whine in both of them.

Instead I keep one of these in my backpack. It's too bad they apparently discontinued them.

u/DerangedDesperado · 1 pointr/solotravel

I'd keep some coins on you in case you need to use the bathroom and it costs money.

I've been to Berlin, whichc i hope you're going to, and i found the taxi service a bit weird. Some places to credit/debit some were cash only. I found one WEIRD dude that only had two bills of 50 euros each and didnt take card. So be prepared if you're using taxis. I also found, coming from the states, credit card use didnt seem QUITE as prevalent, at least the first time i went in 2015. I actually found a market that was cash only.

As for packing i pack as light as possible, i just take basically the equivalent of a school back pack. But i stay in hotels so i can wash clothing in the tub or sink, i dunno how they do in hostels. I also like having socks and underwear that can be cleaned daily and are dry by morning so i can cut down on number of thing i take. They're usually thinner than normal underwear as well so less room. Last year i had ex officio and while i could wash them every day they retained a musty, sweaty smell despite showering several times a day. This year i bought David Archy and it worked a lot better. For socks i have smart wool from REI that have worked VERY well.

Last year was the first time i'd ever used packing squares and i cant recommend them enough. It makes packing and storing your stuff SO much easier. I got a 3 pack from Eagle creek. I use the big one for shirts and i can get about 10-12 shirts in there plus underwear. The middle one for socks if i need it. The smallest one i use for keeping less used electronics like my power strip, adapter, and power bank plus various cables.

I have this or something like it https://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505361011&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=monster+p%5Bower+strip+travel

I take it every time i go out of town. I remember it being cheaper but i bought it years ago.

An important thing to remember is that for the most part anything you might forget besides essentials like medications and what not can be easily found so dont stress.

u/bryan_sensei · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I'm currently using a 4-outlet monster powerstrip. It's a beast!


Monster MP OTG400 BK Outlets To Go 4 Outlet Travel Power Strip (Black)
http://amzn.com/B000F9YN2M

u/TFGxDWGS · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oops. I meant optical audio. sorry about that. It looks like this. its pretty much a fiber optic cable for audio.

u/ITchiGuy · 1 pointr/techsupport

The red and white wires are only an input, so if you had a dvd player or game console, you could plug the audio cables from them into the tv and the sound would come out of the tv speakers, it does not go the other direction. The digital audio out slot uses a digital audio cable (like [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW) that goes from the tv to the receiver and sends all tv sounds to the receiver. There should be an option in the menu of the tv to switch audio to use the digital out so that it will work properly.

u/DronesWorkHard · 1 pointr/headphones

hate to be such a noob, but could you link me to an optical cable that would work?

If you are talkinb about this the Aune t1 does not have an optical in like that. It only has USB and R+W inputs

I think i have it narrowed down to an issue with the particular rig, my work computer does not appear to have the problem in the first 5 minutes of testing at least


Edit: checked out the dac you are talking about and i see that it does have an optical in :( looks like im shopping for a new dac

u/CreepyMasta · 1 pointr/hometheater

You can still do that with a receiver....just output the sound from the tv to the receiver with an optical toslink cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413465085&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+audio

u/Stoneman2382 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I had my X11s set up using the following method and it worked. I had to buy the following things:

Xbox One Headset adapter

Optical to RCA converter

Optical Cable

You'll plug one end of your optical cable into your Xbox One and the other end into the Optical port on the Converter. Then, plug your red and white RCA connectors on your X11s into the Red and White jacks on the Converter (you now have game audio).

For chat, there should be a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter that comes with the XB1 headset adapter. Use that.

This is how I used my X11s when the adapter first game out.





Another possibility I just thought of while typing this up is using something like a PC-headset to Smartphone Adapter. In theory this should work, but I have not tested it so i cannot guarantee it.

In this scenario, you'd simply take the Pink and Green 3.5mm connectors on the X11s and plug them directly into Mic and Speaker Jacks and then plug that adapter into your controller.

Hope this helps.

u/beaub05 · 1 pointr/htpc

If I were you, I would use the old PC to run XBMC to play all your local files, Chromecast to play Netflix, and PS3 for blu-rays. To setup your old computer just grab a DVI-to-HDMI adapter for your 8800GT and use a toslink cable for 5.1 audio assuming this is your motherboard. If you do not have a toslink port then grab one of these to get audio, just know it'll only be 2.0. If you upgraded your graphics card to a 6450 you'd get HD audio and video through HDMI.

u/Takeabyte · 1 pointr/applehelp

It depends on your speakers. Do they have an optical input? If so, you probably want to get one like this... But if it just uses a headphone type of connection, you may need more adapters and cables as the AppleTV you have can only do digital output.

u/shrewmz · 1 pointr/audiophile

Most TVs should have Optical or Aux out, and then you would use a L7 to give a line out connection to your amp.

u/joelirish · 1 pointr/audiophile

I guess I need to read more about the quality difference between S/PDIF and USB, maybe there is none. If so, then I'd be fine with picking up one of these. This would do the trick, yeah?

u/putzarino · 1 pointr/rocksmith

One of these for instance.

u/RobertJP · 1 pointr/apple

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

u/mrzisme · 1 pointr/todayilearned

General tip on headphones, if it looks flashy and hip, it's probably a piece of shit. Get some good Seinheisers, no flashy cool appearance, no pizzaz, all the money goes into the components. 3 years ago I picked up a pair of HD380's for around $170 retail. I use them everyday, incredible quality and detail. But they don't exactly make any fashion statements, unless its cool to appear like you're wearing some large flat black ear muffs.

u/UniqueDeath · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget - $100 - $200

Source - iMac, Mid 2011

Requirements for Isolation - A good amount of isolation. I'm at work and my boss has SONOS speakers. One in the kitchen, one by the sales people, and one a good 10-15 feet from me. The music he puts on isn't that loud, but with the shitty iLuv earbuds I bought from an airport a while ago just to listen to music on the plane because I forgot mine at home, it barely does anything. Sometimes people are also on conference calls and I just want to be able to drown them out and concentrate on my work. I have to read constantly and I want to understand what I am reading by not being distracted by my boss' terrible Chill station and people talking in the background.

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - Not at all.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Full-sized or IEM, whichever provide better noise isolation.

Preferred tonal balance - Overall balanced I guess. I have a decent pair of headphones at home so I am not really looking for amazing quality or anything. Mainly noise isolation.

Past headphones - Didn't hate past headphones just trying to get new ones for a different purpose.

Preferred Music -

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Just noise isolation.

I've looked up a couple of full-sized headphones and these seem pretty good from what I have seen.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-380-PRO-Headphones/dp/B001UE6I0G


https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-M-80-Headphone-Monitoring-Isolation/dp/B000F4KWQI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/authorctallant · 1 pointr/macgaming

I ended up with a quality Seinnheiser from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1397249479&sr=1-3&keywords=sennheiser+headphones)
And use a USB mic that came with the Xbox version of Rock Band on a shock mount.. I think they're made my logitech, but for a time every singing/music/plastic instrument game bundled them with mic's, so I have a plethora of unused ones.. and I don't mind the unidirectional USB mic's as long as someone can hear me.. It works when I do podcasts for friends or recording small snippets.

As for the Turtle Beach incident, NewEgg refunded the cost of the headset and I picked up:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104847
As replacement for my son who wanted the other ones for mine craft.. And something that worked with all the other systems. Since they're ONLY USB, they can plug right into the 360, PS3, or PC/Mac and not worry about config besides initial mumble controls.



Sorry, I think I over-answered your question...

u/tweakybiff · 1 pointr/Music

I agree with the comments about Sennheiser. The Sennheiser HD 380s are a good choice if you want to use them in noisy environments, as they are closed back:
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397436198&sr=1-13&keywords=sennheiser+HD555

u/FireHotStickies · 1 pointr/headphones

Help! Comfortable Closed Back Headphone Needed.

  • Budget - £150 (approx $215)
  • Source - Laptop / Desktop computer with headphone amp.
  • Requirements for Isolation - Good isolation. Using mostly at home, so don't mind a bit of leak.
  • Will you be using these headphones in public - No.
  • Preferred Type of Headphone - Closed Back, Over Ear.
  • Preferred Tonal Balance - Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy. I actually quite liked the bassiness of the ATH-M50x, but a bit more control would be nice.
  • Past Headphones - Sennheiser HD 215 - very comfortable and they do sound good but looking for an upgrade.
  • AKG K72 - don't sound too bad for the price, a bit muffled and lacking clarity. Like the design and very comfortable.
  • AKG K550 - sounded amazing but I had a significant problem with comfort. After about 30 mins use, a real burning pain starts to slowly grow right at the crown of my head where the top of the headband rests. An hour in and it's pretty unbearable. As a result, they sat in my cupboard, unused for two years. I tried using them again a couple of weeks ago, but had the same issue, so I've been forced to sell them.
  • Audio Technica ATH-M50x - I would say that in terms of sound, these were definitely a bit of a downgrade. The overall sound is just a lot more muddied and coloured, and the soundstage is nowhere near as good as the K550s. They are a bit more comfortable, but not by much. I can only really use them for about 2 hours before I am in considerable pain from the headband. I think I will be returning these and trying to find something more comfortable.
  • Preferred Music - Listen to a bit of everything. Primarily EDM, Pop, Rock, Alternative, Classical.
  • What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Comfortable! For long periods. I think I might be better off with lighter headphones, since the pain is always due to pressure at the top of my head.
    -Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy.

    With this is mind, a couple of candidates so far:

  • Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm - from what I've heard, supposed to be pretty comfortable. Link: [DT770] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beyerdynamic-DT770-Pro-Headphones-Ohm/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463390210&sr=1-1&keywords=dt770)
  • Sennheiser HD 380 Pro - again, supposed to be pretty comfortable and quite light. Not sure these are much of an upgrade in terms of sound. Link: HD 380
  • AKG K271 Mk II - Lightweight and have a similar headband design to a pair of AKG K72 I have, which are really comfy. Link: [K271] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKG-K271-MKII-Circumaural-Headphones/dp/B0016MOC28/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463389006&sr=1-3&keywords=akg+closed)

    What would you recommend out of these 3? Any better alternatives in my price range?

    If anyone can offer any advice or help, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
u/InhailedYeti · 1 pointr/headphones

It's not really a closed back equivalent of the HD 600 afaik but the HM5 is a pretty solid neutral closed back headphone. Between my other pairs (and the broken HM5 headband which was entirely my fault) I don't use it as much because I heavily prefer open headphones but I still like them and they seem to be pretty well regarded in general. They're also on sale right now, no idea for how long.

There's also the HD 380 Pro though I don't have any personal experience with them so I can't say much about them. There also doens't seem to be a lot of talk about them here but they have pretty solid reviews everywhere that sells them and, worst case scenario, a lot of vendors have a 30 day refund system.

u/Tmrh · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | $89.90 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $61.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $71.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | LG 27MC67-B 60Hz 27.0" Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2618.79
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2598.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 07:58 EST-0500 |

No need to spend 3000$ when this build will do the job for 500$ less. Also don't go for an internal sound card like suggested in the other builds, better to go for an external DAC/AMP combo. this will give you the best possible sound quality for your music production without spending over 1000$ combine them with a good set of studio monitor headsets and it will give you crystal clear sound reproduction, ideal for producing music.

A friend of mine who is a music producer himself swears by these headphones as having a good neutral accurate sound representation, which is what you will want for music production.

As for the computer itself:

i7 4790k allows for overclocking, heavy gaming and streaming with ease.

2x 980ti will let you play games at 4K 60fps high to ultra settings.

16GB of RAM should be more than enough, and you can always add another 16GB for a total of 32.

500GB SSD and a 2TB HDD like you asked.

the cooler is super quiet and allows for cool temps even when overclocked.

fractal design define S is a great quiet case that isn't too expensive. offers lots of room for all your parts, cable management, and whatever else. I went with the closed version, but there is a windowed version as well if you prefer.

PSU is fully modular to make cale management easier and has platinum efficiency, which meas less power consumption, less heat output, and less noise.

Monitor is a nice IPS 60Hz 4k panel, and it's fairly cheap for a 4K monitor.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

u/thewxdude · 1 pointr/nfl

These are my daily work drivers. I've had them for over five years (coming up on six) and the only issues they have are purely cosmetic. They're a little uncomfortable at first and can get kinda hot during long listening sessions but that's to be expected with closed back headphones with great isolation.

The only caveat is they may need some extra power (likely a low end portable headphone amp, nothing too over the top) depending on your source. I use my laptop at work so I never have any issues but I've tried to use them on my phone before and my phone's output power just isn't enough to drive them properly.

u/nyda · 1 pointr/headphones

Audio Technica M50x

Sennheiser 380 Pro

Beyerdynamic DT 770

I'd go with the latter myself but it's 3 good pair of headphones that will last you a while.

You can also consider these modified T50RP:

http://www.zmfheadphones.com/order-the-zmf/zmf-master-model

http://mrspeakers.com/product/mad-dog-leather-alpha-pads-comfort-strap/

u/mysticreddit · 1 pointr/Warframe

I wear glasses and find circumaural headsets to be extremely comfortable to (literally) wear all day. I personally use:

u/jtom88 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

maybe this bundle?

It has the sennheiser HD 380 and a decent microphone

Its 200$

u/shonen3000 · 1 pointr/headphones

Location - Slovenia

Budget - < 150€

Source - Laptop, Desktop, Phone - Samsunbg s7(would be nice but not so important)

Requirements for Isolation - I need some isolation, prefered a lot but not that critical. I will use them at home and at school on my laptop.

Preferred Type of Headphone - full-sized

Preferred tonal balance - Maybe netural or a little V/U shaped.

Past headphones - CANYON - CHR-HS07N. They are dying. This will be my first Hifi headphhones.

Preferred Music - Currently I lsiten to a lot of electro, rock, metal but I listen to all geners.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Better sound quality. For gaming, music, movies and MAYBE light video editing(not imporant)

I did some research and here some of the ones I was looking into:

-Audio Technica ATH-M40x (heard that M50x kinda suck and are only good if you're doing exclusively monitoring)
https://www.amazon.de/gp/offer-listing/B00HVLUR54/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

-Shure SRH 440
https://www.amazon.de/Shure-Professioneller-geschlossener-%C3%9Cbertragungsbereich-Audiowiedergabe/dp/B002DP1FTU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1492159140&sr=8-5&keywords=shure

-Shure SHR 840
https://www.amazon.de/Shure-SRH840-E-Professioneller-geschlossener-austauschbares/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1492159174&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+840

-Sennheiser HD 380 Pro
https://www.amazon.de/Sennheiser-HD-380-Pro-Kopfh%C3%B6rer/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

-BRAINWAVZ HM5 <--- £79.50
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BRAINWAVZ-HM5-Studio-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B006MA9XXM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492160677&sr=1-1&keywords=NVX+XPT100

-Soundmagic HP150 £79.99 <--- sale
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Headphones-Earphones/Soundmagic-HP150-SoundMAGIC-Closed-Back-Replaceable-Cable/B00NF5SF3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492273177&sr=8-1&keywords=SoundMagic+HP150

-Sony MDR-100AAP £84.99 <--- sale
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-MDR-100AAP-Resolution-Overhead-Headphones/dp/B014R2VSUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492275181&sr=8-1&keywords=Sony+MDR+100+AAP

-AKG 553 (used for 110 € from US)


edit: had bad formating

u/OsamaBeenModdin · 1 pointr/headphones

> ... how do you get the best possible quality out of a set of PC headphones for gaming and streaming services like Netflix? Say you had a budget of $200. Do you spend it all on headphones? Is a sound card important here? Is a headphone amp? I'm interested in how each of these work with a PC specifically.

That's a good question. For under $200 for an entire setup you're likely not going to need a separate amp. Most headphones in this price range will be low impedance, so they won't need much power anyway. Depending on your PC you might have a decent onboard DAC on your motherboard. If you built your PC and the motherboard cost over $50 your sound should be quite good, so I wouldn't recommend eating into the budget of your headphones. However, if you feel like you get any background noise from your headphone ports or want something with slightly better sound, you could get a fairly cheap DAC/amp like this one. (Keep in mind this will take away from the budget of your headphones). If you do buy a DAC, make sure it has some kind of built in headphone amp or that it doesn't require extra amplification.

For $200 this is what I would recommend buying for movies/tv, music and gaming:

  • Option 1: 200 bucks on a single pair of headphones; that's it. If you feel like your motherboard has decent sound, then put all of the money into what will make the biggest difference; the cans on your ears. Spend as much as you can on a good pair that fits your tastes in sound characteristics. For a closed headphone you have lots of choices, too many to list or recommend. For open cans the AKG Q701 is fantastic for detail and sound stage and is under $200 currently.

  • Option 2: If you don't like the quality of sound coming from your motherboard (static, noise or low dynamic range) you could spend around $50-$100 on a fairly good DAC/amp and then spend $150-$100 on a quality pair of headphones. If you want closed cans, I would look at the ATH-M50 series or Sennheiser HD-380s which are on a fantastic sale. (I own the 380s, they are phenomenal for that price). If you want open headphones the Fidelio L1s are crazy cheap right now.

    Personally, I wouldn't buy an internal PCI sound card for a few reasons. For one, they are in close proximity to high voltage/amperage components which can introduce EMI and noise into the signal. Also many internal sound cards aren't as good for the money as an external DAC/amp and they often have really iffy driver support and need updates. External setups usually don't need to be touched and are pretty much universally compatible since it's just USB or optically connected. The biggest benefit of an external DAC/amp is the portability and ability to easily use it on another computer, laptop, phone or other device.
u/asianglide · 1 pointr/headphones

I'm looking at Amazon's flash deals today, and the Sennheiser HD 380 and 280 are 55% off. I'm wondering if there's much of a difference between the two quality-wise and whether it'd be worth getting the 380 for $12 more.

Then there's the ultra cheap Sony MDRMA300 which I'd obviously assume is nowhere near as nice as the Sennheisers, but would I really be able to hear that much of a difference? I've never had nice headphones before, so without knowing the pleasures of top quality sounds, maybe I'd be okay with the cheap Sony?

On the other hand, would the Sony die so quickly that having the replace it would mean it'd be more economic to just get the Sennheisers and not have to replace them for like 10+ years?

Thanks.

u/whatacrappyusername · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

There is currently an Amazon lightning deal for Sennheiser 380 pro for $99. I tried to submit it, but I messed up the title and it is not letting me post again.

u/metafizikal · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm partial to the HD380 pros, but check out this guide for lots of information. Also /r/headphones has a daily purchase advice thread.

u/Upright__Man · 1 pointr/headphones

and 380 for 77 - though showing out of stock... http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=psdc_4222329031_t1_B000065BPB



u/mixermixing · 1 pointr/livesound

I scored the Sennheiser HD380 for $149 at amazon, I'd say it's pretty flat and good isolation too.

u/women_are_pretty · 1 pointr/audiophile

The USB requirement removes a lot of headphones from consideration. There are a lot of 1/8 inch headphones that will fit your needs.

Have you considered buying a UCA 202 DAC and then plugging traditional headphones into it?

There are a ton of options then.

Sennhesier

Grado

ATH option 1

ATH Option 2

If you insist on USB, I would punt and choose a Turtle Beach of some sort. The tiny little USB DAC could compromise audio quality.

u/twaddington · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

If you're looking for a small [vertical] laptop bag I highly recommend the Tom Bihn Ristretto. It's just big enough for my needs and forced me to downsize just the right amount. Here's what I carry in it every day:

  • 13" Macbook Air
  • Sennheiser HD 380 Pro Headphone
  • 1 pair sunglasses
  • 1 pair eyeglasses
  • 1 Macbook charger
  • 1 Leatherman Core
  • 1 Lockpick set
  • 1 bicycle tire patch kit
  • Several USB cables and misc. dongles.
u/HeOpensADress · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can get HD380s for that price. Which are superior to ANY of the beats headphones.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-HD-380-Pro-Collapsible/dp/B001UE6I0G/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1477839725&sr=1-6&keywords=sennheiser

But if you want good looking go to the headphones subreddit and they'll suggest something.

u/KlaymenKlaymen · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Let me reply in detail in a couple hours. Got a couple things to take care of.

A side note: live drums is probably your most limiting factor when it comes to starting recording. It involves the most amount of microphones and, thus, the most amount of money to get started on.

Edit:
So, on a $500 budget I would definitely prioritize getting:

  1. a USB interface: both the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and the PreSonus AudioBox 22VSL are fine choices.

    2)a DAW: the PreSonus interfaces usually come with StudioOne, which is a fine entry-level DAW that shows much promise. Otherwise, since you're on a budget I would recommend Reaper, which is only $60 and has decent functionality.

  2. a decent pair of headphones for tracking/mixing: since your cap is $500, getting monitors for your setup is out of the question. A personal favorite of mine is the Audio-Technica ATH-M50, while others prefer the Sennheiser HD380 or the Grado SR80i.

    After you've got these, you can DI that guitar or bass right into your interface and start recording. If you have a decent amplifier for either of those, I would suggest looking into getting a microphone to actually plug into that interface (can't beat the old standby SM57 for guitar amps in terms of bang for your buck).

    When it comes to doing drum tracking, microphones would be out of the question for your price range. So, a sequencer/sampler would be an ok alternative... perhaps EZdrummer?

    Well, that's all I have for now. If you have any more questions just let me know.
u/Crow_Morollan · 1 pointr/buildapc

You'll find the cheaper headsets compensate by squeezing your head instead of forming appropriately to it. This is even more common in the full ear headsets, who have to be able to withstand you moving about.

The point being, it's not the rubbery ears that's giving you headaches, it's the build quality. I know what you're thinking, Bose have fantastic drivers for sound, but ergonomically they fall flat on their face.

*****
Few Options

  • Sennheiser HD380's (Rubbery Ears, No Mic) - Far and away the best quality you can buy for your buck. You'll notice they are sloped, which fit more naturally with how your ears are anatomically attached to your head. 3.5mm with a 1/4" adapter. My personal favorites. Amazon 99$ - 50% Off

  • Sennheiser PC141 (Behind the Head, Mic) - Great headset for an entry level price range. You won't hear the CT's jumping up and down while switching weapons from around the corner, but it'll get the job done. Amazon 35$ - 30% Off

  • Sennheiser G4ME ONE (Cloth Ears, Mic) - Slanted styling for anatomically correct fit, just like the HD380's. You should be noticing a brand trend by now. Also the ear foam is a cloth covering, not rubber. This reduces sweating, makes them more breathable, and also doesn't give you that sealed pressure chamber affect. This helps reduce headaches, and improves long time wear. Amazon 195$ - 30% Off White or Black

    *****

    Hopefully this gives you a few options. I would again really emphasize that when it comes to headphones and people with sensitive facial zones/heads (I'm in this group), Sennheiser and other quality companies cannot be beat.
u/xpenvex · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget - $80-130

Source - PC soundcard

Requirements for Isolation - No real requirement but some isolation could be nice.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear

Preferred tonal balance - I guess neutralish but I also like good bass that isn't overpowering.

Past headphones - Various low-ends, really nothing to mention.

Preferred Music - Mostly electronic(Aphex Twin and such), but all kinds really.

So pretty much I'm between choosing this and this. What's the consensus on those two? I'm also open to other suggestions.

Edit: just saw the price on the HD 558, so now I'm considering that as well.

Edit 2: At this point I don't really know what to get, so I'm just open to any suggestions.

u/DerJawsh · 1 pointr/todayilearned

Sennheiser HD 518s, geared for more electronic music, far better than Beats, Open Ear for beautiful sound

~$70

Sennheiser HD 558s, balanced all around, improvement over the 518s but less geared for electronic music. Open ear

~$100

Sennheiser 598s, practically similar to the 558, just further improved for more accurate sound reproduction

~$150

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO, closed back, extremely good sound reproduction

~$100

Audio-Technica M50x, closed back, one of the most popular Audiophile headphones on the market

~$150

2 Closed Back, 3 Open Back. As you can see, I strongly prefer open for the much cleaner and natural sound, but closed back is still an option.

I mean, if your looking for, "audio tuned to only emphasize the very highs and the very lows", then yeah, maybe beats are for you, however, that doesn't make them of higher quality at all, they are literally doing the opposite of what you would want in a headphone, it's just that you would apparently prefer it. If you had a headphone that was completely flat, then you could hear the exact amount of bass the artist was intending. For example, I have Dual-Subs in the back of my car inside a ported box. If I listen to a deadmau5 song on those with the bass settings tuned way up, I'll get an overpowering bass that basically shakes the car and drowns out the rest of the music. However, when I go home and listen to the song on say my HD518s, I'll get to listen to the song as a whole, and the bass is represented exactly at the level it should be for the song, where you can feel it, you can hear it, but it doesn't drown out the rest of the song.

u/AngryConfusedRabbit · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget $120

Source Nexus 7, ASUS Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard, PS4

Requirements for Isolation I don't mind being able to hear my surroundings a bit, I'd like very little sound leakage though. Isolation isn't a deal breaker unless the isolation is particularly bad for a closed headphone.

Preferred Type of Headphone Over-ear closed

Preferred tonal balance Never owned a good pair of headphones so I can't say based on experience, but from what I read I think neurtal/articulate/imaging/accurate/nice soundstage headphones would be best.

Past Headphones Best headphones I've owned have been super cheap ones. Best thing I've owned sound wise is a Turtle Beach PX22 Headset ($60)

Preferred Music I'm mostly using these for gaming/watching videos/listening to podcasts, I don't have a specific music I listen to, but the first real thing I plan to do with these headphones is playing Dragon Age: Inquisition, [here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQDs5P42MNg) is the main theme for that, I like this kind of music atm.

Location USA

Headphones I Narrowed Down To - Feel free to recommend something else though

Sennheiser HD 380 Pro $114.99

[NVX Audio XPT100] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093PVTPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XH) $79.99

Audio Technica ATH-A700X $99.99 -

[KAM HP1] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAM-HP1-Reference-Headphones-for-Recording-Studio-Audiophiles-B-Stock-/221620705687?pt=US_DJ_Monitoring_Headphones&hash=item33999f9997) $81.44 Not much info on these, basing this consideration solely off [this] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/648810/review-kam-hp1-an-unknown-headphone-that-rivals-the-hm5) review

u/elint · 1 pointr/headphones

What splitter are you using? Something like this? Try that, if it doesn't work, you may just have to get a better headset, or preferably separate headphones and a mic. Splitters like the one I linked will split a 4-contact 3.5mm plug into separate 2-contact(mono) 3.5mm mic and 3-contact (stereo) 3.5mm headphones plugs. The problem is, some headsets designed for phones add extra features such as volume controls and call-control buttons. These send wonky-ass signals down one of the 2 circuits (mic or headphones), and if that's the case, you just won't have much luck with either the cans or mic with those headsets on a PC.

It sounds like you may have a splitter like I've linked, so I think you're just SOL. Get better equipment.

u/tito13kfm · 1 pointr/buildapc

There should be a splitter available, that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way.

Edit: Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-Smartphone-Converts/dp/B00332DPDG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1312063061&sr=1-1

u/d1rtySi · 1 pointr/xboxone

You might need a splitter like this http://amazon.co.uk/dp/B00332DPDG if your laptop doesn't have a mic/headphone combination plug.

u/Goosebeans · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

There aren't any solid solutions that will be both device agnostic and inexpensive, unfortunately. If you end up sticking with the X360, my favorite has been the XBox 360 Wireless Headset. Alternatively I had an extra set of Plantronics M Series earloop and eartips that I stuck onto the 'set and I find them to be much more comfortable / better at remaining in place. In all, with the optional kit, can run you from $25-$40 (sometimes you'll find a dirt cheap sale on the communicators somewhere, especially for like the MW3 edition). Personally I wouldn't go any higher in cost for an X360 solution, unless you go full-blown with an Astro Mixamp Pro and a favorite, high quality headset (expect to spend anywhere from $200-$500 altogether, or higher if you go really nuts).

A solid, dollar for dollar, PC / PS4 solution would be to get the SteelSeries v2 paired with an adapter like this ($60-$80 solution, depending). The DS4 has a 3.5mm jack that will support in-game sound as well as chat. The downside to it is it's a little underpowered. A lot of people don't have issues with it, but I'm rather picky. Thankfully the SteelSeries v2 only has a 32 Ohm impedance and an accompanying low-ish sensitivity level. So they don't take much to drive, but still -- to me the sounds for anything on the DS4 are a little muddy. To forego it, you would need to spend a little more money. Next step up, which works great for the PS4, would be the Sony Wireless Gold for around $80, but while it's a great solution for the PS4 I find it subpar on the PC. To get better sound out of the PS4 you would have to go the Astro Mixamp Pro route.

For PS4 you could also go the opposite direction in pricing and get the $12 PS Vita Earbuds and just shove those in the DS4 jack. While still an inline mic (will be picking up a lot of ambient noise) these are far better than what you can get out of the packaged earbud / mic with the PS4. If your soundcard doesn't support mic input via the headphone jack and only has the separate 3.5mm, can always use another adapter that goes in the reverse. Or just simply save up for a different headset for PC.

u/JarJarDidNuffinWong · 1 pointr/headphones

There's always the good old Koss PortaPro. Which are still likely the best on ears below 100€. Maybe a bit too light if you want to add the Modmic, however you can also get the version with an iPhone mic and something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG

They aren't super durable (probably as durable as the Logitech) but they do have a lifetime warranty, and they are fairly cheap as well.

u/raygundan · 1 pointr/gaming

Something like this, or this cheaper version?

u/llamaman456 · 1 pointr/techsupport

If your setup is what I am thinking it is, you need one of these adapters https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Buddy-Headphone-Adapter-PH35-PC35/dp/B00332DPDG

u/PotatoAcid · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

PCs generally don't support phone-style combo jacks (audio output + microphone). You need this type of adapter.

u/KyleKasterTF2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Made an edit to the main post, I plan on using After FX mostly, and vegas secondarily.

The headphone/mic splitter is from amazon I'm sure someone could find one just around at a small computer store, but this is my backup if I can't find it locally.

u/triggles00 · 1 pointr/xboxone

This definitely works. I bought a similar adapter and tested it with Skype on my PC.

u/MisterM0nday · 1 pointr/techsupport

As described, your PC has one audio input (microphone) and one OUTput (speaker). A mic/earphone headset with only one connector will not function in the configuration. You'll have to use an adapter to split the signals. Ex. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00332DPDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499400297&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX200_SY289_QL65&keywords=headset+to+pc+adapter&psc=1

u/lostalaska · 1 pointr/techsupport

I checked the Plantronics page, but they didn't give much in the hardware specs of the headset. You said you plugged them into your phone and they work fine. So first off you're using a "Tip-ring-ring-sleeve" style headphone jack. This style of headphone jack only became massively popular since smart phones started really taking off about six years ago . Because of that most computers don't have single jacks that can recognize both mic and headset from a single plug. It is becoming more common on laptops and some desktops though, but where I work even most of our newer business class Dell Laptops we purchase still don't support that kind of connection. We have a few people who have smartphone headsets that want to use them on their Dells for Skype and such so we ended up ordering a bunch of adapters that breaks out the mic and headphones into two plugs that is compatible with all computers that have a headphone and microphone jack. An amazon link for said product is below...

Amazon smart phone headset adapter for PC's.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00332DPDG

Here's a weird tip that works as well... buy a $5-$10 USB Bluetooth Dongle for your computer, then plug your new headset into your smartphone and connect your smartphone to your PC via bluetooth. Then use your headset over bluetooth with it plugged into your phone that acts as the receiver. I've done this a few times with my iPhone, it's also nice because I can toss my phone in my pocket and walk away from my desk while still talking although the connection gets horrible if you're more than 20-30 feet away or if you get a wall between you and the receiver.

Anyways hope that helps, or at least pushes you in the right direction to find the answers you need.

u/left_lane_camper · 1 pointr/beer

This is basically what I have. I kept an eye out on Craigslist until I found a good deal on one (searching for "merchandiser" worked well), and I interrupted the internal power to the compressor with one of these, and I re-wired it to accept an LED strip in lieu of the fluorescent system it came with. I've been really happy with it.

u/weezerisneat · 1 pointr/Cooking

Look into getting a Johnson Temp Control Unit, it will ensure it stays at the precise temp.

u/vinpaysdoc · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

The Johnson Controls a419 was what I bought. It has served me well for a couple of years. This was NOT after extensive research, so, listen to all the other opinions you get.

u/bdifc · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Wouldn't a temperature controller be easier?

u/super_wizard · 1 pointr/slowcooking

Could you use something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

Inserting the probe in the meat to cycle the crockpot on and off for you?

u/hivbus · 1 pointr/cigars

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

If you want to go higher. Check what the temperature really is though when you set it to the highest setting.

I keep my wineador at 64F and 62% humidity, it does fluctuate a bit though.

u/McWatt · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

If you decided that you don't want to do the wiring yourself with the STC-1000 you could grab one of these. Very simple plug and play temperature control. I used one for my keezer and I am quite happy with it.

u/mccoyn · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That will work, but make sure you put it in an enclosure of some sort in case the wires come out of the screw terminals or wire nuts.

The neutral wire isn't switched so there is only one screw terminal for it, but don't be tempted to jam both nuetral wires into it. Put one wire into the screw terminal and use a wire nut to connect two wires to that.

A simplier but costlier way to do it would be to get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00368D6JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1415822758&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

u/spazzcat · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

This what I am doing, I just got my freezer last week. I got this from MW: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-triple-tap-draft-system-with-3-way-gas-manifold.html. I hope to start building my keezer this winter. The only think I would do different is that I get the used CO2 tank and not the new one. I'm finding it very hard to get it refills, seems most only do trades.

edit: I am also using this temp regulator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002EAL58&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=07ZYDPS8F5XM0N96Q1Q9

u/Thrillingtonn · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I do it. I use this temp controller to regulate. If I need to warm it up I use a ferm-wrap heater wrapped in a towel for a bit. You'll be surprised how long a keezer can hold a warm temp. No problems so far.

u/yousaywho · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Does anyone have this Johnson's Digital Control Thermostat and if so, have you made the probe waterproof somehow? I bought it for its simplicity as I don't trust my wiring skills, bummed to be reading that the probe cant simply be dipped in a cup of water for stabilizing, according to the Q&A's on Amazon's page.

u/houndazs · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I use a fridge with a $65 temp controller which can be found here. Doesn't get any simpler than that.

u/houndysmell · 1 pointr/WildernessBackpacking

I love cheap-but-works. We use this 3.9 oz ultra-cheapo from Amazon. Yes, you do need canisters, but it works perfectly. For high altitudes obviously the correct fuel is an issue, as is recycling the cans. Not a "fashionable" choice. https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_11?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1468612734&sr=1-11&keywords=backpacking+stove

u/mvmntsofthemind · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

Oh right, well, in case you haven't actually done an overnighter, just expect some bumps, especially if you haven't encountered adverse conditions, say overnight in the rain, or whatever. I guess that's part of the fun.

I have been using an MSR pocket rocket and I like it a lot. As long as it's not super cold where you are, it should work fine. If you want to shed weight, you can try an alcohol stove. I can't speak to it's effectiveness yet, but I'm experimenting with a DIY "super cat" stove on my next trip. But if having hot food is vital to the enjoyment of your trip, you may want to stick with something fool proof like the pocket rocket on your first few multiday trips. If you want to save a few bucks you might try this $6 pocket rocket knock off. http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/

For water filtration, I bring a sawyer squeeze and aqua mira drops as a backup. Just make sure if you go somewhere where it's freezing, to keep the filter on you to keep it warm. If I was buying something today, I'd get the sawyer mini. Both are 0.1 micron, have a fantastic life span and are easy to operate.

I hike without a beacon but I don't get too far out there either. Just be sure to let someone you trust know when and where you're leaving and when and where you're getting back, and any other details about your trip that you may be able to provide. You probably already know this. Just get out there and see how it goes.

u/Zooshooter · 1 pointr/camping

Actually, Smokey the Bear is what caused the situation in the West in the first place. The western North American environment is SUPPOSED to burn. It has evolved that way for centuries. Then humans came along and decided "hey, this looks pretty" and started building homes there and got mad when they kept burning down. So we instituted fire protection policies that put out those fires asap and allowed the fuel that they burned up to pile up instead....for 100 years. 100 years worth of fire fuel that SHOULD have been burning off regularly is why the fires out there are so intense and hard to control now.

That being said, DON'T ignore local fire bans. Stoves can be had for, literally, a few dollars. Yes, it's a cheap knock-off of the MSR Pocket Rocket, but I bought 3 and haven't had any failures among them yet. If you wanted to try out that type of stove, that would be my recommendation as it has a built-in spark-lighter which does NOT come standard on some of the stoves that cost 10 times as much.

u/mornsbarstool · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

You can still find those cartridges, but they're really not advisable. If you are in the UK then one of these will really surprise you for value for money.

u/Ken_Wood · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I love camping. This is the coolest thing I can find, hands down. It's just so cheap, and with great reviews. Honestly, a lot of ultralight canister stoves have mixed reviews and are in the $30-120 range. The only part that's keeping me from getting it is that I can't get it delivered to Canada. C'est la vie on amazon.ca. Amazon.com gets all the cool stuff.

I'd have to go with Dead Space 3. I played the first one and loved how terrifying it could be, and I just bought the second one. I'll have a week or two with nothing to do coming up, so I'm thinking of marathoning them.

u/CultMember68 · 1 pointr/CampingGear

Yes. So will $5 stoves from Amazon.
Stove

u/Natejitsu · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

From my experience of being a poor college student who loves the outdoors, take advantage of bargain gear, Craigslist, and thrift stores. Yes, if you buy titanium cookware, an ultralight 4 season tent, and a 0.2 micron purifier you will be good to go, but you will also have an empty wallet.


Some good cheap items that I still use today from time to time:

Stanley Cook Pot from Target/Walmart: This $12-$15 foldable cook pot will snugly fit a small fuel canister and this stove http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451241733&sr=8-2&keywords=backpacking+stove+piezo , plus some aluminum foil and seasoning packets, etc. Find a bowl and cup for cheap and bring some top ramen and oatmeal packets (plus some freeze dried veggies, fruit, and jerky) and you have an entire cooking set up plus breakfast and dinner for somewhere in the range of $30.

For water purification you can buy a Coghlan's purifier and iodine tablets for about $20 combined. The iodine tablets taste terrible, so I would highly recommend having a good purifier being one of your first major purchases (after boots).

Sleeping bag and backpack can be bought from Craigslist or army surplus for cheap. Sleeping bags are rough because the price and quality difference between the mid-end and high-end stuff is huge, in my opinion, but you make do with what you have.

Most other essentials (compass, waterproof matches, paracord, etc.) can be bought pretty cheap. I'm not entirely sure what the opinion of Coghlans is on this sub, but I have not bought a product from them I didn't like. I would not expect to own anything they make for life, but for the money it is usually pretty good.

As far as deciding where to go, places like Reddit are excellent. Look at a Google Maps view of your area and find the green space. Look up any national forests, parks, or monuments in your area and find out what kind of opportunities they have. A good sign of a quality wilderness experience is dispersed camping opportunities, in my opinion.


Lastly, only experience will tell you what you don't need to pack, do need to pack, etc. I used to only bring one compass until I got lost and started doubting my compass. Thankfully my hiking partner had a gps tool, especially since my compass was indeed malfunctioning. Now I have a light compass I bring along that I can use as a sanity check in case I begin to doubt my main one.

u/15feet · 1 pointr/hiking

I have this stove here, do you know how much burn time I will have with it?

I also have to cook breakfast and maybe lunch, so I was worried.

u/visionque · 1 pointr/hitchhiking

Open a bank account at Well Fargo or JP Morgan Chase.

Fargo has the most branch offices in the USA and Chase has the most ATM's of any bank. Or open one at both. This will give near universal access to your money without you having to carry excessive amount of cash. Scan all your documents into a password protected file and email that to yourself.

Find opportunities on craigslist gigs for one day cash jobs.

Dumpster diving food, calling on small cafes and shops near closing time and asking for left overs will cut food expenses dramatically. Study up on wild edibles at the library and always ask older people to teach you wild edible plants. People with gardens will give you more food than you can carry if you ask them to trade some labor for food. Often they won't ask anything of you but some will need help changing a light bulb or mowing the lawn.

If you are out early in the morning look for road kill. Smell it and feel the temperature. Is it fresh? Cut off what you want and cook it shortly thereafter. Free food is everywhere.

Must have a means of cooking, stove, fuel, pot with a lid, spoon, knife.

u/davidrools · 1 pointr/trailmeals

And a ridiculously cheap alternative. I bought two to bring a backup in case one failed, but the thing is pretty well made, solid, and reliable. Now I don't bother bringing a backup (or I use a soda can alcohol stove). Worst that happened was that it didn't light and I needed to use a match, which is what you'd do every time with the pocket rocket.

u/i_wanted_to_say · 1 pointr/Frugal

This is arguably just as good at a fraction of the price. It runs off the same iso-butane fuel.

u/posthardkyle · 1 pointr/CampingGear

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88
Bam. My friend has one and it works just as well as my PocketRocket. The Piezo ignition doesn't work for shit but who cares, you should have matches or a lighter with you anyway. Less than $8. Can't beat it.

u/atomic_bonanza · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/L0gix · 1 pointr/hiking

Can you be more specific as to the particular stove(s) you're looking at on amazon?

A few months ago, I was looking for a cheap backpacking stove and stumbled upon this one on amazon.

Seems to have pretty favorable reviews, and I was going to order it, until I realized that it would be shipping from Hong Kong. If I'd had the time to wait for shipping, I would have purchased it, but I needed something right away.

That being said, I ended up just going to my local REI and picking up the MSR pocket rocket and have been extremely impressed with the performance. It also feels extremely durable, I'd highly recommend it.

Also....that one on amazon has an electronic ignition. It's nice, but the other components will probably outlive it. Plus you're already carrying matches/lighter so it's not like the lack of ignition on the MSR is extra weight.


Just my thoughts!

u/pujuma · 1 pointr/hiking

haha this one even less
thanks

u/foggynotion · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

Yeah that's what I've heard about wetness, hopefully won't be much of a problem... As for a stove I'm not sure, I was thinking something [cheap and small like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1) which seems to have pretty good reviews. The Soto looks awesome, would it be a good idea to invest a bit more into a stove or will a cheap one work fine? They all seem to be fairly simple for what they are

u/video_descriptionbot · 1 pointr/hiking

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | SMOKY MOUNTAINS | Section hiking the Appalachian Trail Episode 1
Description | We set out to hike a small section of the AT. Mom, Dad, and I had an amazing time! There's so much life out on the AT. Make sure to check out Episode 2! Episode 2: https://youtu.be/rxYF34Mhpxc FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER: https://twitter.com/Turners_Travels Gear List: Camera Gear: Gitup Git2p - http://amzn.to/2tfm4dW Note 5 - http://amzn.to/2rsoaps Nikon D3400 - http://amzn.to/2rskV1h Hiking Gear: Icetek Sports Ultralight Portable Outdoor Backpacking Camping Stove - http://amzn.to/2tAypJ7 Ohuhu17...
Length | 0:01:49






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

u/walkinthewoods · 1 pointr/camping

here is a similar knock-off stove for half the price you listed. I have this one and it works well.

I also have this to go with it (look at the related products for in-stock options).

This setup is ok for one person with the right kind of meals. For two+ people I bring a whisperlite with a larger cookset but I'll also mention that my most often and preferred vehicle is the canoe, so weight is less of an issue to me than a hiker.

u/daedelous · 1 pointr/Augusta

For a tent I have the Ledge Scorpion 2. It's light, small, freestanding, has an optional tarp for when it rains, and good ventilation.

You can get a decent sleeping bag at Academy. I have a No Limits 32 degree tent. I wouldn't get anything rated colder than that because they'll be too big. Mine is basically as big as you should ever get. I'd recommend smaller.

For bed roll I I have the Alps Comfort Series. It rolls real flat and is inflatable by mouth.

For cooking system I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's extremely light and small. Works great with this for cookware: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037DD3R4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Don't forget about a good backpack and a good water purification equipment.

u/uRabbit · 1 pointr/vandwellers

How about this camp stove and the GSI Minimalist set?

I use them for camping, and altogether they weigh under 3 pounds with a canister.

u/toomanytoons · 1 pointr/Fitness

I was looking at this one and this one myself. I haven't looked too closely yet, just saw good reviews so tagged them for a closer look at a later date.


Good luck with Prime Two-Day shipping on an inexpensive power rack. The cheapest Prime eligible power rack (like above, full cage, not half racks) that I saw was just over $650 from Amazon with free Prime. It was available for almost $200 less w/ free shipping from other vendors.

u/midge · 1 pointr/Fitness

I bought this.

Currently out of stock, but it was a steal of a price. $200 plus shipping came to about $270. It may have been a one off thing but maybe you could track one down?

It is not tall enough to do overhead presses inside it, but you can put the bar holders on the outside of the rack for OHP.

u/RIPRSD · 1 pointr/ultimate

I would buy a full power rack for safety's sake, if space and money permit (linked a cheap one, but it will do it's job, you can spend a lot more on higher quality ones), rather than the stand that liquidarity listed, but that's really up to your own tolerance for safety. You can use it for benching too (if you have a bench).

I wouldn't list bumper plates (as compared to steel) as an absolute necessity. They are certainly good to have for cleans (and to a certain extent, deadlifts), but again it's kind of up to your tolerance for noise and potential to break stuff (like... floors, or your bar) vs. how much money you want to spend. Obviously it's better to have them than not if you can afford it.

With a rack, a bench, a bar, and some plates, you can do most of any kind of training, and if you can swing some kettlebells (heh) that will add to your versatility.

With those specific programs however, from what I've seen in the past, they like to prescribe a decent amount of kettlebell type stuff (some of which you could do or modifiy to do with a bar, some you can't), so that might be a higher priority than on some other programs.

u/FF-account · 1 pointr/Fitness

I'm planning on making a home gym on a budget and was deciding between these two squat racks: first and second

The first is what seems to always be suggested as a budget option but I think the second one seems to be more practical as well as cheaper and I don't really see any drawbacks in its design vs an open cage. Can anyone tell me what the disadvantages would be compared to the first cage option if I went with the second option?

u/nx25 · 1 pointr/Fitness

That Titan rack appears to only be $289 right now. Looks exactly like the Atlas Power Rack people seem to rave about as the Powerline PPR200X killer. That rack tends to sell out and I'm thinking this might be the same manufacturer by a different name. Atlas -> Titan ...
Atlas Rack
Powerline Rack

This Titan rack sells on Amazon for more.
Titan Rack on Amazon

Seems to be really good reviews by people who put it together correctly. I wish I had personal experience but I'm shopping this right now too.
Main complaints seem to be people having trouble putting safety bars in. If you don't put the vertical posts all the same direction the holes won't line up, according to reviews on Amazon.

u/adogsfanclub · 1 pointr/grandrapids

Craigslist has failed me as well. I was looking at this Atlas cage on Amazon. I might end up going that route once I have money someday.

u/AtOurGates · 1 pointr/Fitness

You're right, but I got curious at how cheap you could go with new equipment.

I found:

u/mkruse02 · 1 pointr/homegym

I've been doing the same search. If you want something that is 13 gauge or thicker, holes 2 inches or closer, and less than $400, I have only found 3 options:

Atlas

New York Barbells

Titan T-2

u/cheapStryker · 1 pointr/gainit

Get a weight set off craigslist. I got an entire set for $90 and it included 2 sets of 45s, 35s, 25s, 10s, and four sets of 5lb plates.

Buy this off amazon

Buy an adjustable bench that goes 0, 45 and 90 degrees off craigslist for $30-50.

And then buy a barbell, don't get a cheap one. Shell out at least like a $100 on a good quality 7ft barbell with a 2 inch diameter.

I would also recommend getting rubber mats to put on the floor, under the squat rack. I use the ones used in kitchens, the rubber mats with holes in them.

u/Nighteyez07 · 1 pointr/Fitness

/r/homegym

Power Rack

Build your own bench

Troll Craigslist for weights

Get Jacked!

Oh, and best of all, play the music you want to listen to!

u/Sierra419 · 1 pointr/Fitness

Invest $200 in a power rack and stay safe.

u/Simsmac · 1 pointr/gainit

Try craigslist, you can sometimes find cheap power racks on there. You don't need anything fancy, something like this would work, but keep in mind it doesn't have safety bars. You may need to upgrade to something like this later on, because it's easier to bail on a squat with the safety bars. You don't need a spotter if you practice safely failing a rep with an empty/lightly loaded bar.

u/steelcitykid · 1 pointr/Fitness

I bought a squat rack with my girlfriend, we went halvsies. I'm not some crazy strong guy or anything so I didn't need something super industrial. We settled on this rack and it's served us very well so far.

My only complaints were that the powder coating was poor and the packaging was kinda weak dick. Otherwise, it's held anything I've thrown at it and been a solid addition for me. We bought a nice flat bench and I've been using it faithfully ever since. I love the peace of mind of being able to squat and bail if I need to, as well as being able to lift from the pins for things like static holds, heavy barbell shrugs and the like. It's rated for 700lbs (If I ever get anything over 350 I'll buy you dinner) and I have no reason to doubt it. It's a very simple assembly and being a post college constantly poor guy who moves a lot, I'm thankful.

edit: Downsides of my home gym: only 1 bar, setup time eats up workout time. Cramped space but because I'm short it's not really an issue. For an averaged sized man I doubt you could OHP to full extension or do things like pullups and chinups. Being small sometimes isn't so bad!

u/mlitwa · 1 pointr/Fitness

Just for the rack, or is that for everything.

if everything, you should be able to get a basic 300lb weight set at your current sporting good store for around $300, but check craigslist, as you can get weight much cheaper

for a basic rack, I like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZW93HRN28RCX

for a bench, I like this http://www.amazon.com/Valor-Athletics-Inc-DA-Bench/dp/B001TJCHES/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

and that should put you around the $800-900 mark depending on if you can get some used weights or not. This pretty much covers the basics, to get you started with Starting Strength


If $800 is just for the rack, then you are probably able to get much better equipment, and I would probably get a package from rogue, as their products are good. So a R3 Rack, weights, bench, and a bar in one package, would come out to about $1500-1700. This would be bumper plates, so would be safe to drop on a platform


other things I would buy

you can get horse stall mat from tractor supply co, and some OSB to make a platform for deadlifting and cleans

A weight tree if conventional weights, or make a weight holder for bumpers, http://board.crossfit.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2060&d=1216003868

u/dejtat · 1 pointr/homegym

> ...which I guess is kinda useful for a rack with multiple users

And single users. I imagine most people bench and squat with the safeties at different heights.

You might also want to consider the Atlas:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC

It's a bit between the two you listed. Nicer finish and a little heavier than the Titan. A little lighter than the NYBB. It has weird hooks though.

If you can swing it I'd save a little more for the HD though:

http://www.titandistributorsinc.com/default/hd-titan-power-rack-with-2-x3-tubes.html

u/LiquidMotivation · 1 pointr/homegym

I have a rack of the same design, commonly called the "Atlas" rack.
Amazon Link - Bonanza Link

I just bought this on Bonanza a week or two ago. I believe that this is the best power rack deal on the net right now, and that many of these brands are getting the same overall design manufactured. There is a bit of variation, however, and my rack didn't match their pics exactly:

  • Some versions have J-hooks, others have pegs. Mine has chrome pegs.
  • Some have pegs on the safety bars, others have rounded handles. Mine has chrome safety bars with rounded handles.
  • Some variants have the pull-up bar attach to the front posts, others just behind them. Mine is just behind.
  • Other superficial differences like paint color and hole markings. Mine is a dark, blueish grey finish with no markings.

    The rack is solid, I recommend it. The only downside for me is that I'm too tall to overhead press inside of it. No biggie, I just move the bar out and the pegs forward to press.
u/phrakture · 1 pointr/Fitness

I just bought this one. It has not yet been used, but /u/ishitconeguns has the same rack

Edit: get some $40 horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Company, and the barbell and weights off craigslist or from a generic sporting goods store.

u/BigBrotherBacon · 1 pointr/Fitness

This Power Rack is a better deal - It's exactly the same price shipped, but has 2 inch hole spacing instead of 3 inch. Rated capacity is also higher.

I wouldn't buy that bench. Look at the customer images.

A brand new shitty barbell set is $199 from Academy regular price. It goes on sale quite a bit for $190 and there's usually coupons floating around, too.

The better solution is to buy this stuff from craigslist. You could get the weight set for <$125, power rack for $100, and a quality bench (retails $100-200) for $40 depending on your area.

u/mxyz · 1 pointr/Fitness

I have the barbell set from Dick's, 300 pound set for around $200. It's been fine so far. The most I've lifted so far is 230 (only 2 months in). I plan on upgrading the bar once I can lift over 300. I also have a nearly identical power rack from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/phil-er-up · 1 pointr/Fitness

I bought this one back in March. Came in two boxes. Easy to assemble(did it by myself). More than enough weight capacity for novice lifters. I would definitely buy it again.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

*edit: I will say I wish the holes were 1" apart instead of 2", but that's my only qualm.

u/Pupsbear · 1 pointr/DIY

Can I ask why you couldn't just use a decent squat rack over a full on powercage?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UMM4QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456917795&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=squat+rack&dpPl=1&dpID=41s60Tve16L&ref=plSrch

Something like this for a home gym would be perfect. Looking at your design it looks like your gunning for something more commercial sized. But looking at your lifts at around 500lb, that would be overkill.

I'm not trying to shit on your idea mate, just trying to give you another route to go. And one that may very well work out cheaper in the long run.

u/EmberRainbow · 1 pointr/Fitness

This guy has treated me very well for the price.

I really couldn't be much happier with it.

u/soundbytegfx · 1 pointr/homegym

What bench did you get? I'm contemplating between that rack and this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UMM4QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1373255264&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Trying to decide what to go with budget wise, as I'd also need a decent bench, preferably FID. The IM Superbench looks awesome, but a little pricey for me since I don't want to drop more than $350 for a rack. In the meantime, my CL searches continue...

u/jarnish · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

I bought a silicone cover and fits just right with the EL battery. Definitely worth it.

Find it for $10 here:
http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324424409&sr=8-1

EDIT for link.

u/ihaveagalaxyproblem · 1 pointr/Android

I got this one off Amazon. Obviously I havn't had a chance to put the Nexus in it, but it looks like a solid case. Youtube has a lot of good Galaxy Nexus case reviews too.

Edit: Found a YouTube review on it. There's also a clear version.

u/iloveboba · 1 pointr/Android

What are you guys getting for accessories? I'm thinking about ordering this http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1323908458&sr=1-2 for 10 bucks. Or should I go for otterboxes?

u/easyski · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

Virtually all the TPU cases will work. this is the one I am currently using. Have been thinking about purchasing (read: pre ordering) the Ringke Slim case as well.

u/ProbablyNotWorking · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

I'm happy with this one. I don't have the extended battery but it will fit based on the comments. It's sturdy and doesn't make the phone feel larger.

u/malandrajem · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

Nope. The Defender is a beast. I'm using this which is basically a little shell and it's too much. Thankfully it comes off easily.

u/idefiler6 · 1 pointr/Android

I use this for pocket use: http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Revision-Protector-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334257831&sr=1-1

but I recently got this: http://www.tridenteer.com/products/Kraken-AMS-Case-for-Samsung-Galaxy-Nexus-With-Holster-Bundle--%28Black%29.html and I like it much more. It's 2 cases in one and has cheap accessories like a car dock, bike dock and tripod mount that fit to the case.

u/L33k · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

This one It keeps a low profile and it has a nice touch. Very good at keeping lint out and other stuff. Big enough lip to prevent it from falling directly on the face. Used it since day one of the Gnex.

u/thegreyquincy · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

You might want to try the Diztronic. I have that case and it has quite a bot of clearance around the audio port. Might be cheaper than buying a new audio cable maybe.

u/cr5315 · 1 pointr/Android

I have cases for my Galaxy Nexus and Nexus 7, but I only put them in the cases when I'm away from home. I have The Snugg case for my Nexus 7 and the Diztronic TPU case for my Galaxy Nexus.

u/optik678 · 1 pointr/Android

I got this one. Comes with a screen protector, too. It looks like just like one of the Seido ones.

u/Ozyman666 · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

Bought this case. Seems to work well enough, although it doesn't fit as well with the extended battery in. The volume buttons aren't cut out, so it tends to push on them when in landscape. It came with a screen protector that isn't very good.

u/etrnloptimist · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

this seems to be the case of choice for nexus owners. Cheap and awesome. I bought one based on research on here. I love it.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/headphones

Also, these Beyerdynamic-style headband pads fit almost perfectly over the stock hard-vinyl Grado band.

u/chickenbellyfinn · 1 pointr/headphones

This looks really easy to fix with superglue or something. Unless, as others have already said, you need an excuse to get a new one. Why not just get a clip on headband like this : http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A

u/TR00Z3D · 1 pointr/headphones

The eadiest solution is to buy new pads.

I'm not too sure if they'll fit, but the HM5 pads are very good. They have pleather, velour and hybrid variants (normal and angled).

For the headrest, get a leather Beyerdynamic cushion.

Earpads: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO

Headband: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A

u/Mardrommar · 1 pointr/headphones

It's a very simple mod: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405565300&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+headband

Basically, I thought the Audeze padding would have been really good and that I wouldn't have to worry about hotspots, but that wasn't the case. Luckily, I had this (used with my Grado 325is) and it fit pretty well. The last buttons can snap together. If you don't mind the aesthetics (or lack thereof), it really, really helps with comfort.

u/King_Vlad_ · 1 pointr/audiotechnica

I get you. The headband on mine is peeling horribly, and I had to replace the cups a few months ago because of the peeling and the smell. I'm on mobile right now, but later today I'll link to a headband replacement I found on amazon.

EDIT: This is the one I meant

u/6months23days · 1 pointr/headphones

You could try one of these beyerdynamic style cushions. I know a lot of people like them for some of the heavier headphones like some of the HiFiman models.

u/ninjapirate9901 · 1 pointr/headphones

Interesting, I find the HD 650 much more comfortable compared to the stock HE-500. The headband has that nice foam padding and overall it's lighter so there is less pressure on the noggin. I found the HiFiMan velours too hard and uncomfortable to use for extended listening, and the pleathers weren't much better.

If you want a decent replacement pad for the HE-500, I would recommend trying the Audeze Vegan pads. They are expensive as balls but they are soo comfortable and the sound signature is still pretty similar to the stock velours (I think there are subtle differences but I'd struggle to tell you what they are). One thing I should note is that they are quite loose fitting (the pads tend to rotate fairly easily on the cups) compared to the stock pads.

Additionally, if you have a large noggin (I have maybe a centimeter of adjustment left on either side of the HE-500 headband) then adding padding to the headband could potentially make the fit too tight. I've tried both the generic leather headband and the foam padding from an HD 600. Neither were that comfortable for me as they increased pressure on my head. The other issue with both additions were that it spread the weight over a narrower width, which also caused discomfort for me. Just something to be aware of if you have a large head.

u/Mad_Economist · 1 pointr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

Alright, I can work with that.

To preface this, I recommend pairing one of the following headphones with a clip-on microphone - either a cheaper model like a [Zalman ZM-Mic1] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) or a more expensive model like [Antlion's Modmic] (http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage) - rather than getting a headset with an integrated mic. From a price/performance standpoint, headsets almost never stack up. The headsets made by the real headphone brands are exceedingly expensive, and with a very small body of exceptions the cheaper headsets sound terrible.

Now, onward to the headphones. When I hear "isolation", "comfort", and "neutral/warm sound signature", the first thing that comes to my mind is [NVX's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/624729/review-nvx-xpt100-a-direct-brainwavz-hm5-competitor) [XPT100] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2G9qk7IOEA) ([$99 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-Cushions/dp/B0093PVTPS)). I actually own a pair of these myself for use as moderate isolation movie/podcast headphones for when my house is too loud for me to use my open headphones, and they're among the most comfortable headphones I've had. While they don't take the top spot - no headphones without an AKG-style suspension strap will ever do that - they're definitely in the top five or so. Their sound isn't the most detailed out there, but they're fairly neutral, solidly built, and very comfortable, particularly given their price.

A more expensive step up would be [Shure's] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/5056) SRH[840] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/3768) ([$199 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426324378&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+srh84)). While I sadly haven't had a chance to try these out myself, I've heard little but good things about them. Formerly on Innerfidelity's wall of fame, and with consistently good reviews for their sound, comfort, and overall quality, they're definitely a solid choice if you're looking for a neutralish sound with some bass.

A third option would be the [Focal Spirit One] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/focal-spirit-one-page-3) ([$175] (http://www.amazon.com/Focal-529102-SPOH-Spirit-One-Headphones/dp/B007AH7YFU) or [$179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9QRIU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007AH7YFU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HS51KQ3XCE0J5B14R27) via Amazon for the black and white models, respectively). Focal has a quite a solid reputation in audio, but the Spirit One had some serious issues on its release due to manufacturing defects, and it suffered a rather bad reception as a result. These issues are said to have been since resolved, however, and the Spirit One is a very solid headphone at that price. The sound is a bit on the bassy side, but not extremely so, and is quite good for this price. Comfort may be an issue, however, as the One was quite clearly designed more for portability than comfort. While no review characterizes it as uncomfortable, it's a safe bet that it doesn't measure up to the other two in this regard.

Another rather unique option, albeit one with some inherent drawbacks, would be [Fostex's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/570138/review-fostex-t50rp-my-intro-to-the-world-of-orthos) [T50RP] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review) ([$127 via Amazon] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review)). Now, the T50RP is, at stock, not the best-liked headphone. Though it is one of the (if not the) cheapest orthodynamic headphones in the world, its very poor comfort and [rolled-off sound] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RP2011B.pdf) have attracted a lot of criticism. Having a pair myself, I wholeheartedly agree with criticism of its comfort, but think its stock sound is better than people give it credit for. What the T50RP has going for it, however, is an [exceptionally dedicated modding community] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements), and some very high-profile modified variants. Modded T50RPs under the branding of MrSpeakers and ZMF can sell for $300, $600, or even $1,000, and experienced reviewers and audiophiles alike have claimed that they measure up to headphones in those price ranges. If you happen to feel a DIYish inclination, a T50RP can be quite a solid project to work on, and, in theory, it can get you $300-600 sound quality for a little sound of $200 accounting for the various materials it takes to mod them.

Now, there are, as said, quite a few drawbacks to the T50RP: the stock sound isn't for everyone, it requires more power to drive than the other mentioned headphones (not enough to cause issues at stock, in my opinion, but when modded it can be quite intensive to drive, almost assuredly moreso than your integrated audio can support), and it's absolutely terrible in comfort (if you do go for them, [a headband cover like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a pair of [Shure] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325351&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+pads) or [Brainwavz] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325358&sr=1-1&keywords=brainwavz+pads) pads were what I used to take them from "terrible" to "pretty darn solid" comfort), and modding isn't for the faint of heart. After quite a while of tinkering, I've yet to get my own T50RP mod working properly. It's amazing value if you can make it work for you, but it's quite a significant amount of effort to achieve that.

u/stanziak · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Have had the the corded 3.5 headphone jack version (8323) for the past five years, at the time was $28 including shipping. Would absolutely recommend if you get alternative ear pads and possibly a head band of this kind for comfort. I use Beyerdynamic Earpads. I can look up the exact links for the two products on Amazon later if anyone is interested.

I also applied a very nice decal to mine to remove the mono price branding from DecalGirl. It's under Kicker HP541 as these are just rebranded by Monoprice.

u/techfish · 1 pointr/headphones

Looks like this one.

u/macropower · 1 pointr/headphones
u/DarkKnightFXR · 1 pointr/headphones

This one. I am not sure if it'll fit the band... it seems like the middle of the band since it expands out won't allow it to fit.

u/dswerd · 1 pointr/headphones

bought http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 thinking it would fit the q701 headband but it was far too wide so i ended up cutting off the sides of the headband pad with an olfa knife then hot melt glued it to those bumps which dig into my bald skull .. this is the end result it's slightly ghetto but i am satisfied with the comfort http://i.imgur.com/Rh52PP6.jpg

u/reedmaster16 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Nice! My buddy actually just got the 400i and really seems to be enjoying them coming from his dt 770's.

It took me about 2 years to finally get my he-400's comfortable enough for extended wear sessions. That metal band across the top with minimal padding was a poor design choice. Glad they decided to redesign them because the drivers are incredible for the price.

HERE are the ear pads I now use (similar to the LCD-2). So worth the money.

And HERE is the headband for extra padding

u/primoface · 1 pointr/AVexchange

My advice: Bend your headband.

Seriously.

Grados are meant to be customized to the size of your head, there should be just enough clamping force to keep them in place.

Obviously be fairly gentle so you don't snap the metal brace in half, but they're pretty rugged.

EDIT: Also buy one of these. They're probably available on ebay for cheaper.

u/PsynFyr · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

One of these or these might help.

For reference, the 770s are of the closed-back variety. The 990s look to be open, while the 880s are a blend of the two. If you have the 80 or 250 Ohm versions, you might need a headphone amp to get a decent volume.

EDIT: Added another option.

u/themooster32 · 1 pointr/headphones

C'mon man, this isn't the place to ask, their is a thread, but if you are going to ask, at least include what you want from it. IMO, get a Fostex TH X00, a Micca Origen and one of these.

u/Madcat207 · 1 pointr/headphones

Ironically, Sennheiser has a good 6.3mm to 3.5mm that they ship with (at least) the HD600/650:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/
That adaptor works great with cell phones, and doesn't risk breakage. Sad to see they use a cheapy adaptor on lower models..

u/PyschoCandy · 1 pointr/headphones
u/yotmam12 · 1 pointr/headphones

You can buy this adapter or any of these cables.

u/ColdDonut · 1 pointr/headphones

Try picking up one of these 6.3mm>3.5mm and trying another source. This item is a good investment especially if you plan on dabbling with other stuff.

If another source doesn't fix it then it probably needs RMA'd.

u/gailson0192 · 1 pointr/howto

I don’t have an amp. I just have the guitar. Would something like this work? If I plug this into my headset transmitter will it just work or does this adapter not have microphone capability?

u/neddoge · 1 pointr/headphones

Sennheiser Cable Adapter Female 1/4" 6.3mm to Male 1/8" 3.5mm Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mOWezbGKVJWTC

u/hanahlol · 1 pointr/headphones
u/runthetrap808 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

An adapter like this might work if you don't want to get a longer 3.5mm cable. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

u/MrFiskers · 1 pointr/headphones

Assuming you mean the termination is too big

6.3mm (1/4") to 3.5mm (1/8") adapter

A bit on the more expensive side, but this kind of adapter is ideal when going from big to small.

u/Lainz · 1 pointr/sennheiser

I would recommend a adapter cable, not just the short adapter, this will take some of the bulk away and not put that much load on the minijack port. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/

u/TheWaveCarver · 1 pointr/audiophile

Like matty_b said, you need a 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter. Here's a link to a good one off Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419961793&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

u/MrLessMore · 1 pointr/headphones

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/

Thanks for the advice. I will surely replace it.

u/An_Lochlannach · 1 pointr/headphones

Thanks for that, I only just found out about those short cord ones. I ended up going with this, so hopefully will work out.

u/Powerfuldot · 1 pointr/TalesFromThePizzaGuy

Yeah, probably the dongle. It's got a great mic and connects well, but I'm sure the technology in a fully connected BT stereo system would be better. You can control a lot more of the phone stuff from those. It's on my wish list to get a touchscreen stereo installed, but I'm working on saving up for a house down payment right now.

The dongle is a this one: https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K which I'm just now seeing is $20 cheaper than when I bought it. LOL

u/mocahante · 1 pointr/tasker

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/

I have this and it's awesome. It connects immediately every single time

u/canuckalert · 1 pointr/Chevy

If it has an AUX port then just use a Himbox.

u/TelaTheSpy · 1 pointr/phish

Listening

In your car or your home, if you have bluetooth/airplay (or whatever the android equivalent is if that's your thing) already, just pair your phone, select your audio output source and begin playing from LivePhish (SBD - Paid) or PhishOD (AUD - Free).

If you have an AUX jack in your car, but no bluetooth, you can get something like this that plugs into your AUX jack and gives you bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1469204334&sr=8-8&keywords=car+bluetooth+adapter

Some portable devices and bluetooth dongles support different types of bluetooth streaming, ABTx vs A2DP, ABTx is the better choice as the standard claims to be lossless equivalent, but A2DP will work fine.

Where to get it

• If you are looking for SBD's to physically download and store on your Phone/Tablet/Computer for playback, then LivePhish.com is the paid way to go. Otherwise basically you want to look into torrents but that's not legal and I wouldn't necessarily advocate that.

• If you decide you want good quality AUD recordings (IMO they capture the magic in the room much better) then you can torrent those at http://bt.etree.org, which is for sharing legal live tapes. For example, Chris King's Schoeps MK21 (a type of mic) recordings from BGCA are pretty good. I had to EQ them a tad to dial down the boomy sound inside BGCA, but good none the less.

As you explore audience recordings, you can look for what mics your ears like the best. I'm a fan of Schoeps and AKG pulls typically.

Audio Formats

You seem like you may be a bit new to this stuff (forgive me if I'm wrong) so one thing to keep in mind is lossless audio (FLAC/Apple Lossless M4A/SHN/AIFF/WAV files) vs lossy audio (MP3/AAC/OGG). The lossless stuff sounds more "true" to how it was played whereas the lossy stuff doesn't retain all the fine detail and generally has noticeably more audio artifacts or a wishy washy sound to it. Lossless stuff comes in 2 flavors, 16-bit (essentially CD quality audio) and 24-bit, which is said to have even more fine detail but IMO only really matters with good audio equipment.

When you get a free show from LivePhish.com as a result of your ticket code, then you get a, lossy, 256 kbps MP3 file, why they don't give 320, I don't understand (320 is the highest bitrate MP3 can have). To my ears there's a noticeable difference between 256 and 320. Less so between 320 and a lossless FLAC/AppleLossless file, but if you're doing headphones listening, the FLAC is worth having. I rock all lossless even in the car just because.

If you have more questions feel free to PM me.

EDIT: Added more detail

u/Chairboy · 1 pointr/stratux

I've got an audio-in jack and I used one of thost $20ish bluetooth adapters to pipe in the music. Here's the one from the photo (I originally bought it for my car) and here's the one I have now in my car (better microphone). No functional difference between the two for the sake of automatic-pairing bluetooth audio because the microphone wouldn't be usable in the cabin anyways.

The second one looks like it's actually cheaper than the HB01 so that's cool.

So if you've got an aux-in on your CD player (and that part's still functional), one of these should work great!

u/Chainsmoker977 · 1 pointr/technology

Here you go - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJFGE0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1473290194&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41V1j0H06bL&ref=plSrch

And here you go -
https://www.amazon.com/LG-HBS-730-Wireless-Stereo-Headset/dp/B009A5204K

Fantastic bluetooth car adapter and Bluetooth headphones that last for days on a single charge. I own both. I never liked wired headphones anyway so i bought those just be rid of the tangled chord.

u/buckbuckboost · 1 pointr/MINI

Do you have the aux volume and phone volume turned all the way up? That reduces the volume difference between the radio and aux quite a bit on my 2013 Cooper S with the base stereo.

https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K/

I have that and the sound quality is pretty good, I think. Also my stereo stays on the aux input and never goes back to FM on its own. Do you not have the base stereo?

u/speedlover69 · 1 pointr/MINI

Have you considered a bluetooth device? I also used Mini's y-cable - blows.

I really like the Himbox, as it always remembers my phone, instantly turns on when I start my car, and just works.

https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K

u/Imlulse · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Yes.

Pricey and bulky but it works, and will sound better than the OG Pixel's headphone jack (tho I doubt it's noticeable in a car, wouldn't be in mine anyway). You do have other options tho...

You could hook up the cassette adapter to a cheaper Bluetooth receiver (might need a 3.5mm coupler since you'll likely have two male cables, or a different receiver) and you can play music without even taking the phone out of your pocket, and take calls.

I've used various receivers like that for a couple years, you're actually better off than if your car only had a CD player and no aux in...

u/advocat3 · 1 pointr/Miata
u/bzeghers · 1 pointr/Nexus

If your car has an AUX in you could get a Bluetooth car kit. I have this one and it works great for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K It has a stick on backing so I mounted it on my dash and zip tied the cables under the dashboard to keep them out of the way. It works well for calls, music and navigation. To answer a call you just have to press the button on the front which is convenient if it's mounted on your dash.

u/CircaSurvivor55 · 1 pointr/tasker

I had a similar problem because I hated that I had to take my phone out to plug in an AUX chord. But i found this on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Wirecutters-HB01-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Convenient/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1427730309&sr=8-16&keywords=bluetooth+to+aux

Next I just have my car profile set to when it connects to this particular bluetooth device, it turns everything on. The awesome thing about this bluetooth is the little circle thing on the end is a mic, so I set all my profiles to trigger with AutoVoice commands, so I never even have to take my phone out of my pocket. Hope this helps!

u/BipolarUnipolar · 1 pointr/Miata

I have 10 mos left on my warranty, so nothing. :) BUT go to miata.net and check out the NC sections on the forum. THere is power, maintenance, sales, top care (which as a PRHT we have certain things to lube, etc) and lots of great info. I am doing the Goodwin Super Q exhaust and the tune and that's probably it. That way I can convert back to stock easily enough to sell it. There is a very very clean PRHT here in town for sale with low miles but he's done a ton of aftermarket and I think that is why he can't sell it. Good price too.

edit - I did buy this (speaking of bluetooth) and it is fantastic! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/MostlyBullshitStory · 1 pointr/jailbreak

I would recommend this one instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJFGE0K

It's turns on automatically, great quality, has everything you need.

u/Bear_Jew420 · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

I wouldn't recommend fm transmitter if you want good quality audio. Used the fm for years with ok but as you dive around town you will find that there is a lot of interference and the need to always find a better station.

I would stick with one of the bt units. I've
usedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJFGE0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486718990&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aux+bluetooth+adapter+for+car&dpPl=1&dpID=41V1j0H06bL&ref=plSrch

Works great on calls as well.

u/vuudoodude · 1 pointr/spotify

Dude... get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Bluetooth and a car charger for your phone in one device.

u/poldim · 1 pointr/nexus6

You have a tape deck. Thats your problem.

But really, try using one of those bluetooth adapters you keep in the car. I had one of these and it was great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage connect it to your tape deck or preferably an AUX input

u/supportforalderan · 1 pointr/BMW

Or do what I did, buy this little guy for $30 and get the same deal. Seriously, this thing is even faster to connect than the bluetooth in that 328i I had today and has just as good sound quality as connecting my phone with an aux cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/-WB-Spitfire · 1 pointr/techsupport

You'll need an adapter if your headphones are ones that are a one-cable design. The ports on PCs are meant for separate audio/mic, not both in one.

Use this cable https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/

u/Fragger121 · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

Yes, there are audio mic splitters. They look like this https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C but you can probably find them cheaper

u/iamGrandFishy · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wouldn't something like this be a better option?

u/motionglitch · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If the end of your headset has 3 rings on it, like so. You'll need an Audio and Mic splitter.

u/ajairo · 1 pointr/techsupport

I think this is what you would need. If you need an extension, here is an extension

u/HerbalTeaParty · 1 pointr/Overwatch

Okay, issue located! Get an audio/mic splitter adapter (something like this) and use that to plug your Turtle Beach headset into both the headphone jack and the microphone jack. Then you should be able to hear and speak at the same time. Plug the headset into the female/receiving end and plug the male end with the microphone on it into the microphone jack, and the male end with the headset on it into the headset jack.

u/Synikx · 1 pointr/techsupport

Is it a single jack? or split for audio/mic? I'm unfamiliar with those headphones, but I use 3.5mm jacks for 1 of my headphones, it requires 2; one for audio, another for mic, you might need to buy a splitter.

That being said have they ever worked on the computer? Cause if they have without a splitter, you wouldnt need one.

As for testing without realtek software, headsets are literally plug and play. If it was the USB Atlas, the driver would be included (TBH, I probably should have asked the connection before I recommended removing realtek, but reinstalling drivers are always a good option).


edit: A more user friendly splitter


u/Sexytimeturtle · 1 pointr/xboxone

You need a mic splitter like this
Sound Blaster Audio Mic Splitter Adapter

u/khaoskrusade · 1 pointr/xbox

http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C

One side goes too your headphones other side loops back into your capture card!?

u/LEBRONstarJAMES · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget: I would like it to be <$150

Source: PC, iPhone 6

Isolation: idk

Preferred Type: earbuds w/mic

Preferred Balance: idk

Preferred Music: EDM, hip-hop

Past Headphones: iPhone headphones

Basically I am looking for something to replace my iPhone headphones. I want earbuds like the iPhone headphones, but better quality. I use the headphones for phone calls and use the mic for online gaming. I recently built a PC and it has a separate audio jack for audio and mic, and I cannot figure out how to get the mic to work for my iPhone headphones with the PC (motherboard if it helps). I have something like this which I bought but it still doesnt let me use the iPhone headphones as a mic.

I found this which is an option I guess, but I won't be able to use the mic for the iPhone. Is there a product that will work with my PC and iPhone to function as headphones and mic?

Edit: Should I try a different audio mic splitter adapter? Maybe this one?

u/6x9equals42 · 1 pointr/headphones

An amp will definitely fix the volume and bass impact, but most don't have a mic input so you'll have to get a splitter for the boompro. If you just want to use it with the PC the E10k acts as an external soundcard as well as amp, but the A3 has a battery so you could use that with your phone on the go. If you want virtual surround a soundcard like a Soundblaster Z or external soundcard like the Xonar U7 would work.

u/Pyromaniac2077 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get a splitter. You plug the headset into the splitter and it has cords for both audio and mic. Here is an example.

u/msoulepas · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I had headphones that had 1 plug for both but it came with a splitter so you can choose to use either the mic or the headset. By splitter I mean something like this (with a bit of research you can probably find a lot cheaper) https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C

u/elislider · 1 pointr/headphones

Does this cable exist? Mini-XLR to dual 3.5mm cable with built-in microphone. I have some AKG K240 headphones and I'd like to use them as a gaming headset, but I need a mic. I know I could get a tiny mic and somehow attach it to the headphones and run 2 cables, but I was wondering if anyone makes a cable that is Mini XLR (like for the K240s) and then has an in-line mic built-in, with a split for 2x 3.5mm plugs on the end.

I found this which is very close but I'd need 2 3.5mm plugs since my computer (custom desktop i just built) and my speakers (logitech z5500) both have separate headphone and mic jacks, and apparently neither support the combined headphones+mic 3.5mm plug (like most phones do). I know I can also just get that cable and then split it with something like this but if there was cable all in one that would be awesome.

u/Asstrophysicist · 1 pointr/headphones

I am looking into buying my first pair of nice headphones to replace my gaming headset. I currently use a Logitech G930 which is nice but doesnt have the sound quality I thought it did (recently tried a friend's nice pair of sennheiser headphones and was blown away at the difference. I cant recall model right now, sorry). I looked in the buying guide on the sidebar and picked out the CAL! 2. I plan on using them at home on my gaming computer and on my phone/laptop for music. It having a built in mic is also a bonus.

I have 3 questions regarding my situation.

  1. Do i need to buy any sort of amp or other peripherals ( forgive my lack of knowledge im fairly new at this) to get the most out of these?

  2. I was looking at buying this splitter as recommended by amazon for use on my computer with a mic. Will using that cable degrade sound quality at all?

  3. Will the built in "sound booster" on my motherboard(MSI Z97 Gaming 5) do anything for me or should I simply ignore those features? With that is ther any other sort of software I should be using to manage the sound from my computer?
u/Shockwave0304 · 1 pointr/headphones

Just need a mic splitter cable. Like this one for example and one goes to headphone out the other to mic in.

u/aero_zyst · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well I do have the adapter for the headset, so if I use that will the mic still work being plugged into the DAC?

u/HappyMuffinz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Might test a separate microphone jack alongside the sennheiser jack later when I get home. It's a long shot but do you think this would work?

u/shanew21 · 1 pointr/xboxone

The cheap version:

Audio splitter

Cheap Mic


Plug mic and headphones into splitter, then both into Xbox One controller.



Expensive(ish) version with better sound:

Audio splitter

ModMic

TurtleBeach DSS2(note I linked the headset because it's cheaper than buying the DSS2 separately)


Plug the Xbox One optical out into the DSS2 and the USB from the DSS2 into the Xbox One. Plug the mic into the splitter and the splitter into the controller. Plug the 3.5mm to 3.5mm extension cable (included w/ the DSS2) from the Headphone port on the splitter to the AUX port on the DSS2. Plug your headphones into the DSS. Go into Xbox One settings and turn your game volume down to 0 so that your controller only outputs chat audio, then switch your audio on your console to Dolby Digital optical out.

Basically what this does is sends the chat audio into the DSS2, then the DSS2 sends both the optical sound and the chat audio directly to your headphones. The DSS2 will give you higher quality audio (since it's not wireless) and virtual surround sound.

EDIT: I found a picture of what I'm talking about, but this is referencing the Astro Mixamp (the DSS2 does the same thing): picture

u/Steelforcer · 1 pointr/xboxone

On amazon the Game One's are about 150 dollars. The quality sounds good to me, but I've never had a soundboard or used a headphone with a separate mic combo, so I am not too sure about the difference there.

Headset:
link

To be used on Xbox one, you'll need this:
link

u/improve · 1 pointr/headphones
  • Budget: $300
  • Source: Going to be purchasing a Fiio E10 to plug them into, then directly into my computers USB slot.
  • Isolation: Closed
  • Preferred Type: Fit over my ears
  • Past Headphones: Logitech g930

    Let me start out by saying that I haven't purchased the amp(fiio e10) yet because I had a question about it.

    I was thinking of either this: Sennheiser G4ME Zero or Sennheiser PC 350 Special Edition . I couldn't really find a difference between the two so I was looking for advice there.

    The second thing is that the fiio e10 only has 1 slot for headphones but no mic, so my other question is, would an adapter such as this work? Sennheiser PCV .

    I'm open to more suggestions of headphones but I would like the mic installed attached to them.
u/SinisterRecette · 1 pointr/PS4

Could be something wrong with the cable or plug. I use a Y adapter for my ATH-M50x headphones and an inline mic and it works perfectly on my DS4.
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/velvet7 · 1 pointr/macbook

You need either a USB soundcard/DAC with microphone input, or you can use a 4-pole headphone/inline mic adapter such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=psdc_2267280011_t3_B07DB35B4B

It should register as a pair of headphones with a mic even if you don't have something plugged into the female audio side. I think this solution should be better than most USB soundcards unless you're going to spend >$50 or so as the internal one is quite good.

u/CMDR_Visla · 1 pointr/xboxone

I got this mic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_an.EAbYV3Z1WV,
and this splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oo.EAbARCW2Y6
With this you can use any set of head phones and have a great mic without using usb to power anything. I personally pair these with a set of Sennheiser HD 650s and I'm never going back to"gaming headsets"

u/BooksandGames_01 · 1 pointr/Gaming_Headsets

This is my splitter:
Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DVHDbWVRC5K4

This is my mic:
Professional Grade Lavalier Lapel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AG56HYQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The splitter is directly connect to the controller, while the headphones 3.5 jack goes into the green jack while the mic goes into the pink one.

I apologize for this part. I still have limited knowledge about parts. So, I initially connected the 4 pole jack of the mic into the plug, which did not worked. So I had to use the 4 pole to 3 pole adapter that was included in the mic set for the mic.

However, there is a feedback that could be heard during the mic test. This disappears when I touch the exposed metal parts between the splitter and pole adapter. But, it magnifies when I touch the exposed metal parts between the mic and the pole adapter.

I hope this makes some sense. I apologize for the wall text.

u/Ayeme2549 · 1 pointr/CrappyDesign

That pc uses a combo jack so you could use and adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/imtheproof · 1 pointr/audiophile

I use a headset for both my xbox one and my PC. The connection to my xbox looks like this:

headset -> 3.5mm in/out (mic/speakers) -> combo audio adapter -> [xbox one stereo adapter]
(http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6/)

The connection to my PC looks like this:

headset -> 3.5mm in/out (mic/speakers) -> USB sound card -> USB cable to computer

---

Does anyone know of a 'switch' that takes a 3.5mm input and output, and can switch them to different devices? basically, I want my connection to be this:

headset -> 3.5mm in/out (mic/speakers) -> switch (split multiple ways, going to both pc and xbox, with a button or switch to toggle between devices)

u/DaBudge · 1 pointr/headphones

Around $50 or less, I could stretch it a little if the benefits are worth it.

Honestly I bought these Sony MDR-XB500 headphones for around $70 before finding this sub so I'm uncertain if they're good enough to warrant buying an amp?

If not then I found this Sennheiser adapter that I wish I saw before buying my last one.

u/archuck88 · 1 pointr/Gaming_Headsets

https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Adapter-Headsets/dp/B00IM36VU0 ..would this one work straight to controller it says that Xbox one users need adapter but wondering if that would be for older controller

u/Capmeo · 1 pointr/Gaming_Headsets

Sure - Here you go.

Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ASFwCb33W6PK7

Thanks again

u/phishyy · 1 pointr/headphones

I bought a replacement cord for my Sennheiser headphones from Amazon. It's been working pretty well for a year now. Maybe you'll have luck looking around there.

This product is suggested when I go to the product page for the PC 330: Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter

u/What_is_a_reddot · 1 pointr/buildapc

What case and headphones do you have?

Most cases I've seen use two separate 3.5 mm jacks for audio and mic. If the case you have requires that arrangement, that may be your problem.

If you are used to one jack for mic and headphones, you are using a TRRS plug for that. And if your computer has two jacks, for mic and headphones, they're likely TRS jacks. Use a TRRS to TRS splitter to fix the issue.

u/JustAnInternetPerson · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I kinda meant the plug at the end of your headset's cable, but oh well. It's a console / Mobile headset, you need one of these on pc if you wanna use a mobile / Console headset

u/DecayingVacuum · 1 pointr/buildapc

Does your headset have only one connector?

Usually Headset have 2 one for the mic and one for the headphones. If yours only has 1 then I assume it's a 4 pole 3.5mm, then you'll probably need an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC

u/FullOfSpam · 1 pointr/techsupport

> my headset only has one jack and a USB lighting up the headset I think, since the jack works without power. https://imgur.com/a/bKOVgjx

aaah ok got it.

the thing is. this jack combines audio left and right (LR) and microphone in one jack (3 black rings). Your PC does not have such an combijack port. You will need to get an splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

u/mh512rtyog7d · 1 pointr/techsupport

You need a splitter such as this one. You sometimes get a splitter included in the box when you buy a headset.

Headsets (headphones+microphone) with a single plug with 4 connections work with smartphones and consoles. Most PC's need the headphone and microphone signals to be on seperate plugs. Some PC's made in the last few years support 4 connection headset plugs but most don't.

u/D2490nm4573r · 1 pointr/razer
u/HeyItzSteve · 1 pointr/buildapc

I took a look at your headset and it seems that your headset should have included a 5ft extension splitter cable. Did you receive one with your headset? The splitter should have a side to connect your single jack and the other side is connected to the mobo headphone and mic jacks.

If you don’t have one, you could check HyperX’s website to purchase a splitter or get a 3rd-party one on Amazon. Here’s one I found for $7:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCE4Db03XX26V

u/hxcxdonneee · 1 pointr/audio

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

u/Detjohnnysandwiches · 1 pointr/techsupport

hey, thanks for the reply. I got this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NDLCGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

again it works on my phone with I plug in one at a time.

u/AbysmalVixen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Your Headset only has one plug I assume? You’ll need a headset splitter

u/formula1titan · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

hey, idk if you solved this but the audio splitter that comes with the Zelda edition only works for the Switch, NOT for the PC. If you want to split the headphones into a mic and and audio, you'll need a different splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headset+audio+splitter&qid=1555142225&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Hope this helped! I just picked mine up.

u/BearDave · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It probably has a single 3.5mm plug with a console adapter thing included.

You might need to get a 3.5mm splitter that converts a single 3.5mm jack to both mic and headset individually.

https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JC7N3BRQ14N6EDJ2AXEQ

Thats an example of the splitter I am talking about. Without the splitter its possible you'd have a headset or mic only and not having both function at once.

In general I would not recommend purchasing console specific headsets.

u/Makegooduseof · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

I take it you’re trying to record or do voice chat via your computer?

If your source doesn’t have a jack for a mic and headphone combo, you need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538823804&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41inLd2qDcL&ref=plSrch

(Not an affiliate - just found a product and copied the link whole)

u/DownToCl0wn · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

im not sure what case you have, but in most scenarios wherever you plug in the headphones there'll be a port just like it with a little mic symbol near it or it'll be colored pink or green, most likely on the back of your case. If you need the splitter cable i'm pretty sure this is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I'm not really a pro on this topic, i just encountered this issue a bit ago. I recommend getting a PC headset with a USB rather than the console-familiar 3.5mm jack, as the mic/headphone quality will be a little nicer.

u/gzunk · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's why the Mic isn't working. You need to get a converter like this. Perhaps one came with the headset?

u/Berowulf · 1 pointr/computers

Makes sense. It should be defaulting to the mic you have plugged in, but some computers are just weird with that, I'd suggest buying a splitter so that you have a different cable for the microphone and the audio. And if that doesn't work work then buy a USB adapter that translates mic + audio cords to usb

MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA - Y Splitter Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for PC, PS4 Gaming Headset- 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YvlTBbDN7F54Y

Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PwlTBbCBPVBQN


Never used anything like this but you could try this as well. Aux to USB. Probably cheaper just to buy the two other adapters though.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vylTBbWFVFPH1

u/Reygle · 1 pointr/techsupport

Computers have headphone jacks and microphone jacks.

Phones/tablets/etc tend to have headphone/microphone combo jacks.

You need a splitter like this one to turn your single plug into two plugs. Anything like it will work.

The splitter will turn your 3-conductor 3.5 into two 2 conductor 3.5 plugs.

u/llamasking · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Do not get a USB to 3.5mm. Use this or something similar instead.

u/coololly · 1 pointr/buildapc

They will have a combo jack. phones and laptops often have combo jacks, but PC's have them seperate. The headphone port only is an output, and the mic only is an input.

You will want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/

u/TheFaintGames · 1 pointr/techsupport

A solution would be something like this headset adapter here. You can find them online if a few different colors. Hope this helps! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gMQ3CbWX54TQ5

u/tetractys_gnosys · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is what you need, though not necessarily this exact one/brand: MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA - Y Splitter Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector Compatible for PC, PS4 Gaming Headset- 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ql20CbWA7MFQN

u/WeaselWeaz · 1 pointr/Advice

Your headphones also have a microphone, which you left out. Any standard 3.5mm male-to-male cable will work but for audio only. You need a different cable for the microphone to work. There are multiple options/lengths here from Monoprice but other companies sell them too.

Monoprice Onyx Series Auxiliary 3.5mm TRRS Audio & Microphone Cable - This is a male to male cable that can connect the headphones to any device with one audio/mic jack or only and audio jack. For your laptop you also need an additional splitter/adapter like this.

u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

This is probably the official one: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/

There are a lot of companies that make the same thing but for cheaper, many of which should also be fine, but the quality varies. StarTech is an OK brand, at least the one cable I bought from them, and they make one, available on Amazon for $6.39.

Technical details of what you need:

  • Male TRRS 3.5mm connector on one end and dual female TRS 3.5mm connectors on the other end.
  • Unfortunately, there are two standards for how these things can be wired, and the standards are called CTIA and OMTP. (See the 3rd diagram here.) But apparently CTIA is way more common these days (general required for Android phones), so that's probably what your cell phone needs.

    If you go digging around for other products, avoid cables that let you use two sets of headphones and also avoid cables meant for camcorders. They will look similar but won't work for your purposes.
u/ravissimo · 1 pointr/xboxone

I previously had a similar setup to what you have now just with different headphones. my first guess is that your audio adapter isn't 4 pole which you need for both the headphones and the mic to come through. I've tried several different adapters and this one has been the most reliable in the past Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter

u/nisaaru · 1 pointr/xboxone

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500716729&sr=8-1&keywords=Sennheiser+PCV05+Combo+Audio+Adapter+für+PC+Gaming+Headsets

That adapter works and has been reliable for years. I would avoid cheaply built no-name versions with thinner cables. I got a cheap one first and it broke in a short time probably due mechanical stress.

u/atwork1337 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm sorry, but this sounding engineering is a new concept for me. How would I plug in my green cable (listening) and red cable (voice) into this device? I'll order it now, just need to know how to set it up first, unless I need to get a combo audio adapter like this?

then just plug it into the headphone jack and just disregard those 4 side plug ins?

u/Eskuran · 1 pointr/gaming

The headset works great with the adapter they made for it:

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

u/the_empire_of_death · 1 pointr/xboxone

Looks like you just need a Y-adapter - I use this for my Sennheiser PC360 headset and it works just fine. Ps, that is the videogamiest headset name I've ever heard.

u/bgoods1221 · 1 pointr/PS4

Nice!! Yeah man it works well. I've actually changed my set up since my last post. I now use a Magni 3 so I have my PS4's HDMI to TV and then TV's RCA out to the Magni 3 input. Then Magni to DT770s and separate ModMic directly to controller using one of these

This setup works great for me as I was having a little trouble using a usb dac/amp like I previously posted. For some reason, the usb wouldn't always recognize the mic..

Hope this helps!

u/grendelpoots · 1 pointr/xboxone

My setup is as follows and i have no problems.
Audio technica m50x
Antlion modmic
Sennheiser splitter (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Adapter-Headsets/dp/B00IM36VU0)

u/Anarkipt · 1 pointr/xboxone

Just buy sennheiser pc 2 and an y cable works great and is cheap and a lot better than xbox og headset, the only side down i bought the same y cable in another amazon (spain) the one nearest my country and was very cheap at the time like 6\7 euros

u/jman3350 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

It looks like it says it comes with a PCV 07 adapter which I can only assume makes the two 3.5mm mic/headphone into one 4 pole mic/headphone jack. Should be very similar to this based on this picture in the product link

I can't see any reason this wouldn't. I think that_random_italian is wrong when he says it won't.

u/Gardamis · 1 pointr/headphones

From reading the questions on it's Amazon page it seems like it needs an adapter like this.

u/kaotiq64 · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

You can use any wired headset with the amp.

You would only need a special cable if the end of your headset cable has separate audio and microphone connections, in that case you would need to get a y-adapter that combines them into a single 4-pole connection.

Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LPEVCbTX8NP6J

There are less expensive options that work just as well.

Yes you can use the command center as it would be used with the amp regardless of the headset used.

u/darkonex · 1 pointr/PSVR
u/The_Evil_Potatoe · 1 pointr/PS4

If your headset does have 2 connectors, you can buy an adapter which will allow it to work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM36VU0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use that adapter with my Sennhesier PC360, and it works flawlessly.

u/live_mas_drink_dew · 1 pointr/xboxone

And if you do decide on these you'll need one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IM36VU0/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1 doesn't have to be that brand though.

u/Charlie713 · 1 pointr/headphones

My headset: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024NK34O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

ModMic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R98O6R4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM36VU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Plus I have the XBOX headset adapter as well. The volume is all the way up in audio settings, but there is no ability to adjust volume on headset as it is wired!

u/WingImpulse · 1 pointr/xboxone

Sennheiser would be the better choice between the two. Their products are known for having amazing audio and mic quality.

Also, If you want to use these on Xbox, you would need this cable or something alike that's cheaper to work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IM36VU0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECQ0NN9E0Z94668H4EFK#nav-search-keywords

u/johnnypic · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/tvirelli · 1 pointr/csgo

I have a mic and it works fine. Here is what I bought to use:

u/bottyliscious · 1 pointr/PS4

I mean, you could use a headphone splitter cable (3.5 mm Y-splitter) and use another 3.5 mm patch cable to run the other branch into the Audio In on a TV or receiver. In theory that should work, with the understanding that you will degrade the audio quality, whoever is using the headphones will be deaf while the TV audio may be barely audible. If you have a receiver, you could bring up the signal using that volume control independent of the PS4 (or even just the TV volume, but results will vary).

That's a pretty terrible idea, but simultaneously outputting to headphones and a TV is not a normal use case so hopefully you were expecting something like this.

u/explodingliver · 1 pointr/Guitar

If you have a 3.5mm port for headphones on your phone, you could probably use a splitter/y-splitter that has 1 male, 2 female connections. Then you just use one phone and wouldn't have a delay issue.

u/Asylumsix · 1 pointr/amazonecho

These speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016P9HJIA

This Sub: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Single/dp/B0002KVQBA/

This Headphone Splitter (goes into your echo aux/external speaker connector). https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/

2 of these 3.5mm to RCA cables, one of them goes from the echo to the speaker inputs and the other goes from the echo into the subwoofer inputs. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

That sub will be a bit overpowered for those speakers, the speakers will be much louder than the echo as well and you won't even have to run the sub at full to have plenty of extra bass.

u/psinsyd · 1 pointr/audiophile
u/ThelTGuy · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

This will give 2 and you can connect additional splitters to split it further UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vv0HDbP6S8PWE

u/Paladynne · 1 pointr/audiophile

Back in 2014 I bought this audio joiner cable: Amazon link. The intention was to listen to two different audio sources with one pair of ear/headphones. For that, it works fine; however, the biggest weakness is it's length.

For example, if I attach one end to my PC and one to my 3DS (for listening to in-game music/effects whilst in Discord/TeamSpeak), I can't hold my 3DS more than 16" away from my PC.

 

Any 'ol 2F-1M won't work!


I thought the solution would be a 2Female-1Male cable, like this one: Amazon link; however, that one, and all others I've found, are meant to use one audio source (e.g. iPod) to two outputs (e.g. two ear/headphones). And using them as the opposite (two sources into one output) doesn't sound great and has some issues, such as not being able to output stereo from both devices.

So, it seems that I need to find a specialized 2F-1M cable that supports two stereo sources into one, clean sounding output.

 

Does anyone know where I can find such a specialized cable? Or some other alternative?

u/MicFury · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You're either going to have to split the audio input cable going into your headset with the PC audio included, or send all audio both in and out of the PC. Streaming on console is a PITA. Also: Check out the Chat Link.

u/rawatsamrose · 1 pointr/techsupport

You need to get a Audio Splitter that provide you an option to plug your Speaker and headphones at the same time.

u/LilShaver · 1 pointr/ipad

Assuming you have a 3.5mm audio/mic jack, try one of these.

u/ANeedForUsername · 1 pointr/audiophile

That sounds pretty complicated.

use this and connect to your pc. If you can find a cheaper one out there, you can use that too.

After that, use 2 of these to connect to the splitter above. Use one pair to go into your Audioengine A2 and the other pair goes into your subwoofer.

u/pepcfreak · 1 pointr/Twitch

Id recommend getting something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Earphone-Headset-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493649230&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+splitter


Then plug your consoles into that splitter, then plug that splitter into your blue 3.55 line in jack in the back of the PC. This will provide stereo.

u/-_Travis_- · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Use a 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable 3.5mm Male to 2 Port 3.5mm Female:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-ayKDbRW1190B

u/FARTBOX_DESTROYER · 1 pointr/googlehome

I can't confirm, but it should be easy enough to get a 3.5mm splitter and run the L sound to one speaker and R sound to the other to get stereo experience.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6

u/oo0Hattrick0oo · 1 pointr/headphones

Probably but they also make these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_TaZUAbRX438ZA

(Posted that twice the first link was wrong I got an auto delete message)

u/SteveM19 · 1 pointr/movies

You can use a splitter like this so both of you can use headphones. Lots of TVs have a headphone jack as well.

u/podboi · 1 pointr/buildapc

One to split the audio signal? Yeah, they're called splitters

u/ROCKS_OR_ROLLS · 1 pointr/headphones

Here are the images of each tab
Album

Yes the main issue is my microphone works fine when plugged into the back and no one can hear my audio but when plugged into the front everyone can hear a bad echo or my PC volume when it is loud enough.

I am using the Rosewill Gaming ATX Full Tower Computer Case THOR V2. I have not checked the reseat of the audio cable from the motherboard but I will do that.

I took your advice on a splitter and purchase this

Using that I plug my microphone directly into the back and use the splitter to split between my headseat audio jack and my PC Speaker Audio jack. This solution seems to work since I do not have to keep unplugging and plugging back in either the headset or desktop speakers I can just turn off or lower the volume on whichever one I do not want audio coming from.

Was that what you meant when you mentioned a headset splitter? Does that degrade the audio at all?

u/rondo101 · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

What headset and mics do you have?


Pre-warning: it's a lot of effort.


The basic principle is that you'll take game audio out of the xbox's optical port, take just chat audio out of the controller and input the signals into a two-channel mixer (allowing you to control game volume and chat volume independently). Then run the combined signal into an amplifier, split the output into two and run one to your headset and another to the elgato audio port.

I made a video a while back that explains everything up to splitting the output from the amplifier. You can see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5og50Ai32Y&t=2s


To add to the above setup you'd need a stereo 3.5mm y splitter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) connecting the single end to the amplifier. Then connect your headset to one of the female ports and a standard 3.5mm headphone cable from the other female port with the other end in the line-in on the elgato.

Change the elgato game capture settings to take audio from analogue rather than HDMI. Whilst the audio coming into the Elgato is still combined, you can control the volumes of game and chat independently using the 2 channel mixer. HOWEVER - this will change both what comes through the headset AND goes to stream.


You might be able to accomplish the same with a Mixamp pro TR with less cables and a neater interface, but I've not used one so can't confirm.

u/pickoala · 1 pointr/oneplus

Are you using a special microphone that is made for smartphones?

The jack on the phone is a headset jack, not a microphone jack.

You have to use a splitter that splits the headset signal to Headphones / Microphone.

Somehing like this.

u/SomeTechNoob · 1 pointr/buildapc

Will a 3.5mm splitter not work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LM0ZGK6/

Would be nice to know what soundcard, speakers, and headset you have as well.

u/Anergos · 1 pointr/buildapc

Before buying a new mic, try something like a trrs to double trs adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU. Plug one end in the audio jack and the other in the mic jack. Though not that specific one, as this very expensive for a simple cable. Search for one on ebay (can't post ebay links).

u/Turtvaiz · 1 pointr/headphones

Yeah the originals do not need it, since they don't even have a microphone. You'll need something like this, I think. You have to separate the microphone signal from the audio signal and connect it to a separate sound card that does support mic input.

u/nickN42 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/classicsat · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes, if you get a special TRRS to 2xTRS splitter that has pink and green plugs (or otherwise denotes headphone and mic plugs), and is compatible with your phone headphones (basically Apple vs nearly everybody else).

You want one like this

u/RagnarKon · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It depends if your headset has a TRRS connector or a TRS connector.

  • T = Tip
  • R = Ring
  • S = Sleeve

    Therefore... a TRRS connector has two rings.

    Assuming you have a TRRS connector... you can get something like this to split it out into two 3.5mm TRS male connectors.

    I should also note that many devices support 3.5mm TRRS headsets. For example... most cell phones, most modern Macintosh computers, the Dualshock 4 (PS4 controller), etc. etc.

    ---

    If your headset has a TRS connector, then it is a mono headset. But those are fairly uncommon.
u/neospud · 1 pointr/techsupport

You might be able to use something like this also: https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU

I haven't tested that personally but I preferred the USB sound card option so i can still output to my speakers and headphones separately.

u/debaser00 · 1 pointr/headphones

Ah of course it would be reverse because one goes into two, not two into one. My bad! So it would be something more like this then? https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-4-Position-3-Position-Splitter-IP-AY12C/dp/B00N03ZYUU

The dongle is super frustrating, especially because it seems to work perfectly when plugged into my Surface Pro. Can't figure out the difference between it and my PC other than when I plug it into the Surface pro the device shows up in "sound, video and game controllers" rather than "other devices" in device manager - and of course doesn't have the yellow exclamation mark of needing drivers

u/ressis74 · 1 pointr/headphones

Are you talking about something like this? You plug a cell-phone style headphone+mic jack into the female end, and you get a vanilla headphone and vanilla mic plug out.

u/zetaridley · 1 pointr/buildapc

You need an adapter like this. Each of the rings on the jack are a channel. Left, Right, Mic, and Common. So those headphones that have a built in mic have 4 rings.

Your Headphone jack only has 2 rings, left and right. Mic jack too. The reason why your laptop and phone will work is because it has rings with all what is technically 4 channels in it. Your desktop does not have this, it has two seperate jacks. This adapter combines them into one jack so you can use your heaphones with the mic.

u/Chrizt4Adam · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/Watty162 · 1 pointr/gadgets

Assuming your computer has a 3.5mm Mic input you should be able to get an adaptor like this. If you want a separate better quality microphone the best option would probably be a modmic.

u/MustardCat · 1 pointr/buildapc

> NOTE: This gaming headphone is not compatible with PS3 and Xbox360, when you use it with desktop personal computer, the headphone and the mic can not work together, either the headphone works or the mic works. USB is only for the LED lights

Normally when headsets use the single headphone jack, you can buy a splitter like this and it'll work on a PC:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG/

u/daverz · 1 pointr/techsupport

I think you might need something like what I will link to below on your newer PC that does not seem to have a headset port but instead two seperate Mic and headphone jacks.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG

Are you SURE the USB does nothing? That seems like the better solution if you can get that working. Does it have an input where you are supposed to perhaps plug the 3.5 cable into it first or something? Does anything happen when it's plugged in?

u/ocupi · 1 pointr/techsupport

I think you are using a 3.5mm connection with 3 circular line on it. Does it look like this. If so you need a splitter.

u/reteps144 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Headphone splitter 2 male to 1 female - might work.amazon

u/alex_theman · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Use a jack splitter like this one.

u/SystemsOgreLoad · 1 pointr/headphones

Why not buy one of these? I used the hd598s for gaming and the vmoda boompro mic came with a splitter like this and worked great

u/yolo_chicken_master · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/2ntyxx · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey Mach1ne, I have also ascended to the PC recently and bought a [headphone splitter] (https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499725271&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+mm+mic+and+headphone+splitter) since I just use normal inline mic headphones. This particular model has been working pretty well for me; I haven't experienced any issues at all. So I guess you can try troubleshooting your headphone splitter by testing it on another PC to see if it's actually faulty. I was looking at the Startech model as well, but didn't opt for it because of reviews stating similar issues to yours.

u/Abcmsaj · 1 pointr/splatoon

So how will voice chat work if I don't buy this headset? Can I just get a splitter (1 female to 2 male) and use any headphones with a mic?

EDIT: Something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Microphone-Headphones-x/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499778469&sr=8-6&keywords=audio+splitter

u/TheBatInBlack · 1 pointr/LogitechG
u/Apherix · 1 pointr/xboxone

You'll need this and this and this and this.

Or you could buy an X12 headset.

u/help2hear · 1 pointr/headphones

Need help please (total newbie).

I would like to use earphones with inbuilt microphone (as is used on smartphones using a single Jack) with my PC (front end separate audio and mic). Is this possible using the combination below:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Betron-Earphones-Headphones-Definition-Isolating-Black-Control-Mic/dp/B00NEYPWGG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AXZ3JQ1GVFPIF

The reason I am keen to do this is because I wear glasses and wearing a headset is uncomfortable.

So: is my combination above possible so that I can hear output through my earphones and use the microphone (i.e. gaming use). And will my micrphone input quality suffer as a result?

Many thanks

u/Konstantine_13 · 1 pointr/audiophile
u/pringles_bbq · 1 pointr/buildapc

my bose earbuds with in-line mic doesn't work even with a splitter cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_api_j5jQybD3Y2RFQ). What is wrong?

edit: my mobo is https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157675

u/theepicgamer17 · 1 pointr/computers

I have this assuming that is what you need.

u/fnat · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Something like this could be a possible workaround if it's wired correctly?

Edit: I used a somewhat related method to add mic capabilities to my Fidelio X2's:

Product 1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTEPUIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - this will work on the Nexus 6P if your headphones has a detachable jack.

Product 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This will split the headphone and mic signals from the above cable into separate channels. In my case it was required for computer use since I use an external DAC for the headphones (which does not support TRRS) and had to split the mic into a separate cable. Works like a charm (you'll lose the button functionality here but that's to be expected) :)

u/st33lerz · 1 pointr/headphones

I see. You could try something like this. I just looked up "headset splitter". If you get something else, just make sure it has two plugs and each plug has two colored (in the case of that adapter, black) rings.

Edit: fixed link

u/ixjctx · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask it, but I feel like /r/buildapc is pretty friendly. I have a set of these headphones that I find very comfortable and would like to use full time when I'm gaming. My current workaround has been using a normal gaming headset (with mic) around my neck while wearing the Phillips headphones. Would it be possible for me to buy a replacement aux cable like this one with an in-line mic, connect it to my pc with a splitter like this and have full functionality of both the headphones and new inline microphone?

u/KuroZwei · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/audio

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=sr_1_3

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/plazman30 · 1 pointr/headphones

You probably want to use a TRRS splitter cable that splits the audio and mic into separate connectors, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B00Y4663GG

u/Azelphur · 1 pointr/LogitechG

I have the G933 if you want me to test anything feel free to ask, may be returning it soon though.

For what you want, there is a 3.5mm jack on the headset which you could plug directly into your PC, you do not need the wireless functionality for this. I'm listening to music right now from my phone with the wireless dongle unplugged.

You could leave the wireless dongle plugged into your PC, then when you want to go wireless, unplug the 3.5mm jack, and switch from using your PCs sound device to the Logitech G933 transceiver

A few notes:
As others have mentioned, the USB cable is for charging only and does not carry data, if you wanted to operate in cabled only mode with no wireless functionality, you'd need to use the 3.5mm jack on the headset.


Audio from your PC to the headset should work with the included 3.5mm cable, however if you want your microphone to work you'll need an adapter like this one.

To my understanding, the headset does not use any power if you're in wireless off mode and only using the 3.5mm jack, so you will never need to charge the headset unless you use it wirelessly.

u/Nayeonly · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe buy a splitter adapter, since you need to plug both audio out and mic jack.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

Edit: Some microphones comes with the splitter in the box. If it doesn't, simply buy a splitter.

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/buildapc

Nope, you need a splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y4663GG/

Some laptops have a combo port that they can be used in without the splitter, but I've never seen a desktop use a combo port.

u/ReficuL1286 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Get a splitter that separates the Mic and headphones. The laptop port likely only reads the headphones and has a separate port for the mic.

Something like this

u/NinjaZ39 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would I not want a female connector that split into two male connectors? (1 for the microphone front panel connector and 1 for the audio front panel connector) My headset has only one 3.5 mm connection.

EDIT: something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y4663GG?psc=1

u/hannyolo · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/xdownsetx · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

There are two types of TRRS breakout cables. Between the two types the mic and ground rings are flipped. I had the same issue with the first adapter I bought(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG), the second adapter I tried worked fine for me(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZ2BT4/).

u/s0ber_p · 1 pointr/buildapc

It is likely the audio port can't handle a mixed mic and headphone input/output. You may need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What headphones and mobo/card are you using?

u/TheSwaggyBacon · 1 pointr/hcteams

https://shop.turtlebeach.com/us/headsets/recon-50p you can get these but if you have two different connectors for Headsets and Microphones your going to need a PC splitter cable which you can get easily at any store or online https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have both of these and people say I sound hella sexy so its worth.

u/clamskittles · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey I have an audio hard ware issue... here is my setup

I have this Gigabyte Motherboard

Coming out of the green audio jack I have a 3.5mm extension cable, then a 3.5mm audio splitter, then two 3.5mm TRS-1/4" TS adapters, then two 1/4" TRS cables, to a JBL Nano Patch, then two more 1/4" cables to my Eris E5 monitors

The problem is...The connection made at the 3.5mm splitter - Adapter - 1/4" cable sucks! It doesn't stay fully seated and the audio randomly cuts out until I fiddle with the connection and it comes back.

What can I do to make this better? Any improvements to the overall system? I really like the Nano patch, I use the line in on it with a Chrome Cast to cast to my speakers. It requires the 1/4" cables.

u/fernandoarafat · 1 pointr/xboxone

You can use a 3.5mm splitter. A male plug would go into your controller or adapter, then you plug the headphones and the mic into each of the splitter female sockets (depending on the color, pink for mic, green for headphones).


Not promoting this specific brand or product, just linking you an example:

link

edit: just make sure it is not made for Apple products.

u/NeuromancerLV · 1 pointr/techsupport

the jack is a three-ringed jack to do left audio, right audio, and mic input audio in one jack. You need an adapter to change your separate jacks into one plug. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/

u/djoyce101 · 1 pointr/applehelp

Yup! Pick up one of these.. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4

u/nsinnott · 1 pointr/applehelp

It isn’t output only, you just need an adapter (like this one) to split the TRRS connection into 2x TRS connections (one for input, one for output)

u/Cat_Amaran · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Like this? I just searched mic and speaker splitter, that was the first result.

u/NecromancerOfChaos · 1 pointr/razer

same, I do own a pair from them back then, you probably bought the Phone versions(not a difference but cheaper since that cable isn't included). Doesn't matter how you sound, just trying to help, if your PC needs 2 separate cords for audio/mic this should do just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SO3DJBJNPAPA&keywords=audio+and+mic+splitter&qid=1562134989&s=gateway&sprefix=audio+and+mic+sp%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-3

u/MankYo · 1 pointr/audiophile

The Behringer Xenyx Q502USB in your proposed setup doesn't have a clean way on its own to choose where the microphone signal goes: to your headphones, to your PS4, and/or to your computer. The microphone input on that mixer will always go to the headphones AND to the main output along with whatever game audio it's being mixed with. You can turn the output level of the main output (or the headphone output, or the USB output) to zero to mute it, but that will mute both the game audio AND the microphone.

A lot of folks just mix on their streaming PCs (through OBS and/or other applications) and route audio in software, while controlling it on an external device like a Stream Deck: https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/stream-deck

That has the advantage of fewer cables, less potential analog line level interference, and fewer oops moments when you've accidentally adjusted a knob on the mixer (like the pan, balance or EQ knobs) that almost never needs to be adjusted.

If you want to use the Behringer as just a mixer with your console and headphone, you'd plug your game console or PC game output into the Tendak 4K, and grab audio from the Tendak 4K's 3.5 mm analog audio output with a 3.5 mm male stereo to dual 6.35 mm TRS cable like this: www.amazon.ca/6-35mm-Speaker-Stereo-Suitable-Fancier/dp/B07QX7FVZK/, which plugs into Lines 2/3 or Lines 4/5 on the Beringer. The AT microphone would connect to the only place it can through a three-conductor XLR cable.

The headphone and main out from the Beringer now both contain the mixed audio from your AT microphone and your game, but at different volume levels controlled on the Beringer.

Your Artis 3 TRRS stereo + microphone jack would need to be split into a stereo input and a microphone output with something like this: www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

The stereo input would connect to the Beringer's Phones output through a 3.5 mm to 6.35 mm TRS adapter: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Audio-Stereo-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B01HYXK0CI

The main audio output from the Beringer would go to a line level input on your PC. In your OBS inputs (and system audio mixer, and any other software audio mixers), you'll want to make sure that the audio input from the Beringer isn't being sent out again over HDMI, or you'll have some bad feedback issues when you're gaming and streaming from the same PC. You'll also want to make sure OBS is NOT grabbing audio from the Elgato Game Capture, otherwise you'll get the game audio from the HDMI capture, and a slightly delayed game audio mixed with your microphone inputs from the Beringer.

Alternatively, you can skip all the cables between the Beringer and the computer, and between the Beringer mixerand the Tendak 4K by using the Beringer software to route microphone and game audio (which is available from the Elgato Game Capture anyway) between the computer and the mixer.

As you may have noticed, we're still controlling a good portion of the audio mix on the streaming computer, and it's unclear what value has been gained over plugging the Artis 3 into the computer, and plugging the microphone into a phantom power box and then to the computer.

u/Darkmaster2110 · 1 pointr/xboxone

You can also just get one of these if it's an analog headset and plug it straight into the controller as usual. if it's USB though your method is the only way.

u/Fat-Dabs · 1 pointr/Gaming_Headsets

Sorry for the late response, all this information is overwhelming. Trying to get a sense of what i should do, was looking for something easy or straight forward but it would seem as though Microsoft wants to make everything hard. If i were to be connecting separate headphones and mod mic to the xbox controller i would need a mic/audio splitter like this one? https://www.amazon.com/KingTop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531147301&sr=8-3&keywords=Headphone+Mic+Splitter

My question then becomes is the audio or mic performance going to be sacrificed going through the splitter? Thank you for all your help again.

u/xTHANATOPSISX · 1 pointr/CarAV

https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

Maybe that will do what you want. Seems to be intended to do so. What mic to use may be more of a challenge, but that's worth a shot I guess.

u/camwow13 · 1 pointr/movies

Sure!

So I'll assume you guys have the absolute bare bones in equipment and work from there. Since these are voice recordings from the 60s\70s there won't be much fidelity to capture so you should be pretty safe.

I've only done this with a Windows machine but I think there are similar settings on Mac. If not this will at least give you an idea of what to Google.

You'll need to get the audio from the tape deck to the computer. Technically you should use a line input. If you have a desktop computer it might be the blue connector. If you have a laptop you can use one of these things or something similar. If you're a cheapskate like my Dad you can just use the microphone input (if you have a headphone/microphone combo jack you'll need this doo-dad).

Note that the Mic input is "hot" in the sense that it's very sensitive to the noise coming into it and a line level input from a tape deck with clip out all the audio. You'll need to dial the mic sensitivity down. In Windows 10 right click the audio icon>Sounds>Recording>Select your default mic input>Properties>Listen>✔Listen to this device (to monitor)>Levels>Adjust levels. How to adjust levels should be apparent soon.

If you're using a Walkman type player you can connect with a simple auxillary cable (double sided male headphone jack). If you have a big tape deck just hook it into the Mic or Line jack with one of these. Toss a tape in there and let it play. Check to see if you can hear it with the "Listen to this device" checked. Adjust the levels to where it sounds normalish. You'll fine tune it next.

Install Audacity. In the top bar you'll see a mic input drop down, select your line in or mic input. Click the audio meter for the mic next to check your input levels. Advice on this varies but in general keep the green bar bouncing on the low end between the -12 and -6 during normal audio levels on the tape. This gives some wiggle room when people on the tape get antsy. You can adjust that with the OS input levels and fine tune it with the Audacity mic levels.

Restart your tape, hit record, and play it through.

When exporting I like to use FLAC for lossless audio but if you're looking for something more practical just use a high quality setting for MP3. FLAC is built in but you'll have to install the MP3 exporter (which I just linked wiki instructions for). You can also use WAV but its a lot bigger and doesn't support tags. When you export you'll have options to tag the artist data. I like to input as much data as I have about the tape in these fields. It will display in any compatible media player and it keeps things generally more organized.

If you don't want to bother with any of that you could try visiting local music shops and recording studios and I'm sure there's someone there that you could pay to have it done. I've never tried that though.

Hope that sets you down the right path. Preserving old audio like that of our parents is important. I have a box of old "love tapes" my Dad mailed to my Mom when they were dating. I should digitize them... but it's really weird to hear. Maybe I'll send them out.

u/InGearX · 1 pointr/androiddev

yes yes yes!

OMG cool

so i will use a regular 3.5 mm Y audio splitter when listening from my Android A

one Y split will feed my regular headphones
the other will go into a recording device that accepts a line in / mic in - some high end audio recorders do that
BUT since android devices also record from say headphones mic - i will use one of my many spare androids - i just need to find a right cable - a cable that will connect it right

hmmmm will a regular 3.5mm audio extension cable work? I think NOT because it needs to flip the connections - one being the host another a guest - one sending another receiving

hmmm i think a 3.5mm headphones/mic Y splitter cable will work!? this way i plug my feed into the mic port - is this a correct product to get https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543387215&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5+mm+y+splitter+2+jack+male+to+1+female+headphone+mic+audio+adapter

correct?

thank you!

IN OTHER WORDS: what cable would i need to let my s7 think a mic is plugged in and record from it?

thank you ...

and if i plug in the wrong cable - is there a chance to damage it?
as essentially i will be connecting two galaxy s7 by a 3.5 mm audio cords - both could send audio to it at the same time = could be a problem :/ = damage?

u/LarryBraveBird · 1 pointr/Gaming_Headsets

Thanks. The simplicity seems nice for my PS4. As far as I'm aware, I'd have to buy something like this to use a mic with the 850s on the PS4?

u/damstr · 1 pointr/xboxone

They are headphones so they work with anything that has a headphone port. I would suggest getting lower Ohm headphones. I have 250 Ohm and while they do get loud, I would like to get just a tad louder. If you get something in the 32 Ohm range you will be golden.

The only thing you will need is this adapter to combine the headphone cable and the mic cable into one 4 pole input into the controller.

https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

u/TheBear516 · 1 pointr/HyperX

You have to use a splitter. This is the one I use.

Kingtop 3.5mm Combo Audio Adapter Cable for PS4,Xbox One S,Tablet,Mobile Phone,PC Gaming Headsets and New Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q2V0CbEGY0MKP