Best hole punches according to redditors
We found 97 Reddit comments discussing the best hole punches. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 97 Reddit comments discussing the best hole punches. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Anyone ever DIY a rep?
It's not a bag, but I did DIY an LV jacket that I saw on Alicia Vikander and became obsessed with. I wasn't about to fly to Hong Kong and drop $9k+ on the Auth, but being a bit crafty myself I thought I could DIY it easy enough.
I bought this suede blazer on Poshmark for ~$30. Then I bought the screw-on silver dome rivets on eBay in the 11.5mm and 19.5mm sizes ($28) and some silver chains on AE in 7.5cm and 10cm lengths (~$8).
I made a hole in the lining of the sleeve and using a leather hole punch I affixed the domes and hooked the chains between them.
Here is the final product! The weather is finally cooling down in NYC where I can wear it soon! You can still see where the original sleeve buttons were but I know that will rub out soon. It's not exactly like the Auth since I worked with the details of the blazer I had, but I feel like it still has the same feel. Not bad for ~$60!
Let me know what you think! It was a really fun project, very soothing, especially with the Great British Baking Show playing in the background.
Punches for making holes in leather
I'd recommend an $8 Amazon purchase.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS?ie=UTF8&keywords=belt%20holes%20puncher&qid=1465422789&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.
Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.
*Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
https://www.amazon.com/Sized-Heavy-Leather-Pliers-Punches/dp/B07D28DBC6
leather punch. makes holes in ears
Leather punch. The little piece of removed leather pops out the side.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-790LP-Leather-Punch-Set/dp/B001F27AMI
Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.
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As someone with training in breaking car windows (firefighter) I can tell you there are ways to do it that will only cost some one a window and mild clean up.
If you are just going to hurl a rock through the window, I think you should be held liable because this is extremely unsafe and causes way more damage then is necessary. I've been to scenes were idiots have sprayed glass all over victims. I've broken hundreds of car windows and there's no need to fill someone's car with shards.
Carry a window punch if you want to be a potential pet rescuer. https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ
Well looks identical to a leather punch. So I’d say it’s a leather punch. Not a medical tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Sewing-Punch-3229-00/dp/B0036MNY7K
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494270825&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+punch+tool
Hollow punches
https://www.amazon.com/SE-791LP-Heavy-Duty-12-Piece-Hollow/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518233355&sr=8-3&keywords=hollow+punch+set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRDBGY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got it because I figure it can be used in the future for craft projects and such as well.
I got myself one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1332355339&sr=8-4
I have now made 2 new holes in my belt. Feels prety good.
A Leather Hole Punch, something like the one linked (but not that exact one).
Pretty much any punch should work. If you have a leather punch then go with that.
Otherwise you can find some cheap hollow punches on amazon.
You can solve this problem forever by getting a hole puncher. Shouldn't be much more than $10 at your local crafts store.
Imo, I would wait until i can get the right tool. Some kind of leather puncher like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/
What about something like this?
I got one of these. Totally worth it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524490737&sr=1-5&keywords=leather+punch
I know what you're picturing but the wheel on that tool is vertical and has round tube punches on it.
Edit: here you go:https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02520A-Leather-Heavy-Gauge-Handle/dp/B0002T87FE
It's called a hand sewing punch
I think it's smaller (5mm or 3/16in maybe?), but any craft store will have punches in a variety of sizes. You can also get adjustable punches that allow you to select the size by turning a wheel, like this leather punch. Useful to have around for DIY projects other than watch stickers, too!
I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380696839&sr=8-5&keywords=leather+hole+punch
There's absolutely nothing to it. Just find the right sized punch, place a scrap piece of denim on the anvil side (prevents the punch from going dull), find your spot and punch through. You won't ruin your belt, how do you think the manufacturer got those holes there in the first place? Same way.
Or, like /u/automaticfantastic says, if the buckle is detachable, you can just simply shorten the belt with a utility knife and reattach the buckle.
I see in now, it is probably a window punch
Everyone should carry a window puncher for your car and keep it handy (ie NOT in the glovebox).
I don't think folks realize how a $5 tool can save your life.
For what it's worth, you can buy a belt hole puncher for less than $7 on amazon.
I used a 50 duro sheet with adhesive on it from amazon (currently out of stock, but this is what i've used on all of my boards).
I cut it roughly to size for the bottom of the case and then use these punches to cut out holes for the screw standoffs, the jumper panel and the USB connector (hint: if you lay it in the bottom of the case with the adhesive side still covered and push down, you will end up with little holes punched in the covering to the adhesive that you can use as a guide for the punches).
Once it's cut properly, you take off the backing for the adhesive and carefully place it in the case. It's a delicate operation because the adhesive is pretty tough and you really don't get a second chance (using the screw standoffs as a guide is really the best way to do it).
I've done this in about 6 boards now and it's always worked out really well.
Try going to a Tandy Leather store, or a store that caters to bikers (motorcyclists) and ask for scrap leather. I bought a shopping bag of black and burgundy scraps for $10.
Get a hole puncher like this one on Amazon for $6.88
Next, get some waxed, thin shoelaces for mens' dress shoes, like these for $6.99.
Then, make as many custom wraps as you want. Lacing your wraps will enable you to make custom-fit pieces that can go around and/or cover the unique contours of your horn.
This was one of the best purchases I've made in the last year due to all of my weight loss as well
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS
Couldn't recommend it more. So easy to punch a hole and go.
Do you mean 24"? 14" is a biggish-sized bicep...gun belts go on your body, not your arm. You can always get a bigger belt and punch more holes in it. Use a drill or a hollow punch set and make it whatever size you want.
As a leatherworker your tools just some times wear out
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002964CC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2N7S5KNGPJB62
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OINBRM0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2E1867ME6DVUH
My mind keeps saying "center punch", but that's not bringing up the right things...
Edit: Found it. it performs much the same job as a center punch.
one of these
a leather hole puncher will make any belt fit. this blogger is a fan.
still, i second kale_no's advice. excess fabric won't drape well around the waist, even with a belt.
/u/streakybacon linked spiceBar's landing pad guide. Here's another post with sound clips demonstrating the difference the mod makes. He uses a clothes iron to flatten the landing pads to mitigate the travel reduction that the landing pads induce.
My hole-punched silicone mod takes more supplies and effort to do. I attempted this mod so as to avoid the travel reduction of the landing pads. I used a .010" silicone sheet but I think it's a little too thin to be very effective. I would recommend trying .015" or .020" if you want to attempt this mod. I first cut out 10mm x 10mm squares, then used this hole punch set (I used the 1/4" punch) to make holes on each square using a rubber mallet and a soft wood block underneath. This is very time consuming and costs more than the landing pad mod, but it makes sure all the keys are even with a minimal reduction in travel. It's worth it if you have multiple Topre keyboards you want to silence.
Another thing to note: Nearly all modification guides leave out how to open the Topre keyboard cases. Realforces are easy to open - you just need to unclip 4 tabs on the bottom front of the keyboard and the two halves open up. The FC660C requires removing one screw underneath the QC sticker, and then using a thin screwdriver or credit card to unclip the tabs in the seam between the two halves of the case (difficult to do). The CM Novatouch is built even more tightly and is the hardest to open. Same method as with the FC660C but you need to remove 4 screws on the bottom, and have to unclip even more tabs to open it up. The plastic will bend and you'll probably think you'll break the case but it should be okay if you don't pry the cases outwards too much. To separate the plastic plunger section from the PCB, you'll have to remove a bajillion screws from the PCB. Then, to remove the plungers from their housings you can pop them out with your thumb but it tends to break the tiny plastic tabs keeping the plungers in their housing - this doesn't affect the keyboard's function in any way but it's worth noting that you'll be doing a bit of damage. You can also try to carefully remove the plungers without breaking the tabs using a screwdriver.
I have a roll of foam tape left over from sealing windows. So I used a leather hole punch to make a self stick circle that filled the hole. Granted I had this stuff laying around.
Look for something like this:
Revolving leather hole punch
Life Pro Tip Addendum: For having Such a cool measuring belt to show off to your friends but using a sharp object and accidently cutting your wrist. Buy a Leather Punch.
Edit- Not being an ass I swear I have a belt I have done the same to. Also awesome progress!!
I cant imagine making.a large hole in the middle of someone's carpet. I'd terminate my own ends. But you can try this:SE 791LP Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Punch Set with Zipper Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PIL6xbS7ZK0DP
I believe it is to add additional holes if needed.
boop
And yeah they don't need to be super expensive ones. You may need to sharpen the cutting bits eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-790LP-Leather-Punch-Set/dp/B001F27AMI
That is exactly what it is.
I've got one like this. I could have sworn I got it from Harbor freight but they don't show it anymore on their website.
It will do the job just fine, but the handles open really far, so sometimes it's a bit awkward to use.
I use this.
Or get yourself one of those belt hole punchers
eyyyyyy
You can also do it yourself.
Try buying a leather punch. Really cheap and will solve your problem.
Get something like this
Or you could just get one of these They will out last you I promise.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool/dp/B0002T87FE
I got one of these. You can pick the size of your hole.
Having recently gone through AVET and experimenting with various window breaking methods, I can tell you that the dedicated window breakers such as this or window punches work much much better than a striking tip on any multitool. The striking tips tend to cause over penetration (tool going into passenger compartment) as they require more force to do the same thing. Buy a good knife and a good punch and you can punch the window then cut the seat belt with the knife.
That's my two cents.
When I was an EMT we used these spring-loaded window punches: https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ . They're not great, though -- I prefer those pointy hammer-like things meant for breaking windows.
get yourself a leather punch. it'll make your life much easier.
Anyone have a hole punch recommendation?
I started with a rotary punch that I bought when I made my wife a belt from a belt blank.
I recently bought a double shoulder on 8 oz veg tan for making more belts. I bought this kit for the holes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KE17JO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These things are awful. I'm pounding the shit out of them and taking forever to punch each hole. Looking for recommendations for a kit that will work better.
No problem, here is the link to the exact ones we use on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRMRNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - they are cheap too.
Personally i would have punched the holes with something like these. I bought these to do my stitching and they work wonderfully. I then would just miss the second layer with 1 or 2 stiches and continue past the corner and start into it again.
Here is a quick bracelet i did with them
That was my first time stitching ever.
Thanks for responding!
I can post pictures when I am home, but basically they kinda overlap and sometimes they go up, sometimes down, it's not neat. The front looks uniform though.
I am using flat chisel hole punches, which I am sure amounts to heresy. These guys: http://amzn.com/B00CBRMRNI
I used a stitching awl on a trial piece which was even worse. But until I can tweak my budget to work in diamond punches or better awls, those are all I have to work with. So it is quite possible that it's just an artifact of the tools I'm using and not my technique (for instance in cross stitching, how they say the crosses should all be in the same direction, otherwise the piece will look unfinished).
for something like canvas versus the weight of a cat i think you'd probably get away with double folding the ends and some tough stitching to make little segments for the screws to pass through- the stress is kind of spread the width of the fabric if it's clamped tight...
but you could stick some tarp/canvas eyelets in around where the screws or dowels or whatever pass through, then counter sink the wood around the holes a little so it still fits flush.
never thought about the 14mm hole punch/large screen - great idea!
Kinda like this?
​
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Leather-Gasket-Strap-Hollow/dp/B01N11ELAL
Great! By the way, one of these may help with your strap. Just use a small enough punch that it doesn't rip into the next hole.
Thanks a lot! That's great news for you as well!
I have the luxury of a hole punch kit, which let's me just plop a hole into any fabric or material I want. However, a screw driver can work too, or better yet, if you have access to it, a drill and an appropriately sized drill bit. Just put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, figure out where you want the holes, and drill away. You may want to clamp it or otherwise secure the belt though, lest it take off on you. You can also use an awl, if you have one or know someone who does.
Edit: Regardless of what method you use, put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, or something you don't mind damaging. Also, use the appropriate PPE.
Depends on how small you need. If you only need one or two more holes you can always punch it yourself.
edit: Use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/SE-790LP-Leather-Punch-Set/dp/B001F27AMI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XW672TC1CD0QXG4MCF02&dpID=41sUAyxDaEL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
$12 on Amazon, decent reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGCBDbS9GWZJE
I have one of these, it looks a lot like this with a handle and a punch plate. (I think this one is missing some punches.) Here's mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msGZAbDJPMC2K
That sounds like a bad idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Sized-Heavy-Leather-Pliers-Punches/dp/B07D28DBC6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3EPUXKF6STCFQ&keywords=leather+hole+punch&qid=1556136207&s=gateway&sprefix=Leather+hole%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-3
Those are the jars you want. I would recommend getting a punch to make the injection holes in the lids https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Power-Punch-Heavy-Duty/dp/B07D7HJQ5Z/
You need this...
https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=make+holes+in+belt&qid=1571149201&sr=8-3
you want something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel-Chisel-Leather/dp/B00CBRMRNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451984817&sr=1-3&keywords=leather+tools
I just found a random one on amazon. You can get them from china for cheaper but will have to wait quite a while for delivery. That will punch the holes very nicely and the needle should go though without too much effort. It's best to have one with 2 prongs as well to go around corners. Tools are expensive but it really shows in the project. Take your time with the stitching. It's the greatest single way to improve the finished project for people getting into leather work IMO. In my experience there isn't a great way to finish the inside of leather. Most people use pigskin as a liner as far as I know. It is very thin. Either that or design the piece so that no part of the inside is visible. If you haven't checked out this guys youtube demos do it NOW. They are amazing and I use them all the time. Really nice work and great quality of videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ
Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:
Finished with:
Hope this helps
You're going to want to use something like this. http://www.amazon.com/SE-7909LP-9-Piece-Hollow-Leather/dp/B0002964CC
Oh sweet. That's a tool I'd not heard of in that way (I thought of a different kind of chisel). Are these the ones?
How about a leather punch?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01448JLZS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5enYxbEW7V84X
10mm is ever so slightly larger than 3/8.
help
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
> I recently grabbed a leather strap and it's having a similar issue of being too loose or too tight
You might get a strap punch, put a hole between the one that's too tight and the one that's too loose. I have this one that I like quite a bit, but there are cheaper alternatives out there too.