Best hole saw arbors according to redditors

Alright, I just got done exporting the PDF and printing it to make sure I didn't fuck the scale up. The download link is right here. You're going to need two hole saw drill bits, A 15/16ths drill bit for the 24mm holes, a 1-3/16ths for the 30mm holes, and the mandrel for holding it. Try not to buy them on Amazon unless you have to since they are like 5 dollars apiece or less in your local hardware store. I made the pilot holes with a drill bit that was roughly half the size of the bit on the mandrel, but honestly any size works as long as you are careful. The parts you need really don't cost that much even for high quality Semitsu parts so if you want to go super poverty, you could even use American parts if that's your thing.

EDIT: Oh and the dimensions on the page are for checking the scale with a ruler to make sure it's printing right if that wasn't clear.

Get an "oops arbor" for your hole saw: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOLS2WU . Then use a hole saw that fits the existing hole as a pilot.

Don't cut an opening between the garage and basement, that's supposed to be a rated fire wall.

Also, be wary of an exhaust fan in a room with fuel-burning appliances -- it is very easy to get the balance wrong and suck air in via the flues, which of course is air that contains the dangerous products of combustion. Make-up air needs to come from somewhere, so the door should be undercut or have louvers.

If it's the layout I think it is, you've got a concrete or block wall for the basement level, and the laundry room is far enough from the garage entrance that it is largely underground. If you make a ceiling-fan sized hole in the ceiling drywall within about 8 inches of the outside wall, you will find that you can drill a small hole through the rim joist and siding to outside, and then work from that hole to center a hole saw with Arbor. Then you can mount your bath fan and vent to the outside.

don't use that adapter, you need a holesaw arbor betwee your holesaw and the drill chuck. it will look something like this.

that's what the two holes on the holesaw are for.

I just use metal hole saws, you also need the Mandrel to attach it to your drill. The best way to do it when working with metal is to but the hole out of a piece of wood first, clamp the wood down to your case and then use it as a guide so you get an even cut. It works with acrylic case windows too but you have to be gentle.

Design and design considerations:

• Outside Design photo - rooster crowing
  
• Outside Design angle view
  
• Inside reservoir view
  
• Inside close up view
  
• Inside full view
  
  
• I anticipated issues with heat and so I placed my reservoir inside the shed on the concrete floor for a heat sink effect
  
• reservoir holds ~30 gallons of water filled from my well
  
• pump pumps up to ~ 11 feet high in shed (~12-13 feet outside). Pump was rated for 220 GPH at 10 feet, 0 at 13 feet. I figure I'm getting 150-200 GPH at ~11 feet.
  
• I used old hoses, hose repair ends (male and female) with hose clamps to attach, run up and through the shed wall, use a 'Y' splitter and run into the top of each system.
  
• 4" diameter 10' long sewer pipe (cheaper than PVC), elbows and extensions to extend the distance between the elbows. I was concerned about them being too close and over shadowing each other and so there is ~22" gap at the narrow end, and ~28-30" at the far end
  
• target drop was 4" for the 10' run.
  
• at the bottom, I used sewer pipe to PVR converter and joined together with a bottom drain coming out (1 1/2").
  
• this returns through the shed wall with a ~1" drop over 2 feet to re-enter the reservoir at ~2 ' height above concrete
  
• I used these net cups
  
• I'm using Inkbird Pre-Wired Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat 110V, 1100W Heating and Cooling.
  
  Heating/Cooling:
  
  
• The Inkbird dual stage controller is set to 71F. If the temp goes below that then the heating plug kicks on to active this 800w heater
  
• As seen below in my temp graph, when the temp outside goes high enough, the water temp goes above my target max of 75 F. I need to come up with a cooling solution. Updates to come.
  
• 5/23 update: Decided to get an active cooler Hydrofarm
  Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP - Note in the temp graph below the blunting of the green curve as the red (ambient temp) went high. I have the dual stage temp controller set to kick on the cooling plug at 68, and this starts the second water pump that pumps through the cooler. The cooler is set for 69 currently so when the temp reaches 70, cooling kicks in. I am continuing to fiddle with this setting.
  
  Nutrients:
  
  
• I ordered General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom, Each 2.2 lbs. - and I started at 1/3 concentration of recommendation of the Maxigro.
  
  Plant photos:
  Plants received dry bare root with no green growth from starkbros.
  
  
• 5/15 2 week old plant - notice the new white growth
  
• 5/23 growth and increase in root mass A lot of the brown is old roots from before the planting, white roots with a bit of browning is visible.
  
  
  Temp graph:
  
  This is with the La Crosse wifi temp probe (https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-926-25106-Wgb-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B06ZYJ5L5B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) so I can check remotely. Red line is ambient temp, green line is water temp.
  
  
  
• 5/15 temp graph
  
• 5/23 temp graph with heater and cooling effect
  
  
  Water changes:
  
  
• 5/20 - pumped out old water, filled and allowed to heat to ~58 degrees before being impatient and starting the pump. Ambient temp was low 60s.
  
  
  

Bosch holesaw enlarger

Starret Oops Arbor (needs a standard starret holesaw arbor to work though)

I'm trying to cut 6" wooden circles out of 3/4 to 1" thick pine boards. I purchased a hole saw and shank to use with my drill press, but am having issues with it.

It takes ~10 minutes to cut one disc because of how slow (vertically) I have to take it. If I use more pressure than the slightest increment down, it jams instantly. I've tried speeds as low as 700 RPM all the way up to 2300 RPM with little difference. Also, even when it hasn't jammed, the cut is very poor. It's ripping a lot of the grain causing me to have to do a lot of sanding to produce a finished edge.

I think maybe the issue is the quick swap shank. The retractable pins don't swivel, which means I can't screw the saw on quite all the way. It has a slight wobble because of this, which I think might be too much for a 6" saw to function properly. I'm thinking of trying this hole saw instead, hoping it fits together more snugly and cuts better.

Before I buy more tools, does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to cut 6" circles 1" thick?

No, it will not work, sorry. You need this for the 3.5 hole saw:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1803-16-Inch-Change-Mandrel/dp/B00004RGZQ

> You're exactly right, it'll dance like mad (especially on concrete). You want to get one of these. Lets you put two hole saw bits on the same time. Put your new 4in one on the outside and then a 3in bit on the inside. Will hold you steady as you go through.

EDIT to remove accidental affiliate link.

I too have this p roblem, so I went googling based on u/Rawthebuilder's comment.

Scroll down for "hole saw ejector spring.https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/holesaws/what-are-the-parts-of-a-hole-saw/

​

>Some arbors come with a spring placed over the drill bit called an ejector spring. This spring uses stored mechanical energy to eject the slug from the cylindrical saw blade after your hole has been cut.

There are diagrams.

​

I wondered if you can buy an arbor with the spring, and use it with your existing hole saw blade, but I didn't have time to google that much.

But there is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-645-011-Change-Through-4-Inch/dp/B002NQTLOK/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=hole+saw+with+ejector+spring&qid=1567995642&s=gateway&sr=8-15

​

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Also--search r/woodworking for "hole saw"


found this: How to Clear a Hole Saw--the easy way

Cutting through the siding is actually pretty easy. We are almost finished with a kitchen reno and I ran 6" ducting for our vent hood (previous one was internal, recirculating kind).

Got one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGGKWC/

and one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171X0FXU/

and a cordless drill. Big note. That hole saw is great for 6" duct. If you want a 5", you'll likely want to find one slightly larger than 5". Otherwise the hole is going to be bigger than you want.


Put on one of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-6-in-dia-Galvanized-Steel-R2-Exhaust-Intake-Dryer-Vent-Hood/4598558

Worked great, wasn't too hard to do. That said, you could probably just get something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sheet-Metal-Reducer-Crimped-Small/dp/B00NQD01RK/

and keep the existing 3 inch duct. You'll loose some volume, and it might be a bit louder, but it should work.

Go hydroponic with the kratky method. Come on over to r/hydro or r/Hydroponics or r/HotPeppers and they can all help you out. I've grown stuff using mason jars. Specifically the wide mouth mason jars. Just need to black out the jar or else algae starts growing in the hydroponic solution. Chillies might need a larger bucket later, but if you have them in a net cup 3", you can just transfer the pepper from the mason to a larger container down the line. Good luck.

Yeah I built it the same as what he has there. The beauty of it is that it can work with almost any size pump. I myself use a mag 9.5 it's around 800 gph with the head pressure. I didn't do the bottom because I didn't see the point, I didn't do the sides either. All you can really see is the front. I am on mobile, so let me get on my pc and I will comment again with some parts listed. My tank is about 7.5 inches from the wall. The stand is closer.

Hole saw 45mm for 1 inch bulkheads. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZ7K1SK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_OtD8wbQWWDMF2

Lifegard Aquatics 1-Inch Slip Bulkhead Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DKAKA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YtD8wbN3A9DFR

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-Cement-Purple-Primer-Handy/dp/B00H8A7EEA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02

1.5 inch economy gate valve. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/economy-gate-valve-slip-x-slip-1-bddcda5d65fcfdec9de3838794a77265.html

a check valve for the return line is also something you may want. it will drive up the cost, but will prevent backfilling when the power is off, such as at feeding time. I do not use one, since any valve is prone to fail sooner or later, so i just deal with it back filling. my sump can handle the volume. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pumps-plumbing/plumbing/valves.html

http://gmacreef.com/reef-aquarium-sump-tank-design/