Best home audio crossovers according to redditors

ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Try this out: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-Composite-Converter-Converts/dp/B018D2OOXA

These

Well, the signal from the camera is simply a composite picture, any tv or monitor with a composite in should be able to display it for troubleshooting purposes.
You just have to make sure that the power is getting to the camera, make sure the signal path for the camera to the head unit is good, and then make sure the head unit knows the car is in reverse. My guess would be #1.
If you know anyone who is an audio/visual technician, they can maybe lend you a device which can generate a composite colorbar signal and you could use that to test the signal path instead of using the camera. Failing that, you could use something like this to send color bars from your laptop

I can give you a link to the one i'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119OKOJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using it with my Pro and an older Home Theater system i have and it sounds great to me.

Optical switch info:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y0K9YXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To get MacBook air to optical out, you can use a USB to optical converter like this DAC (can't vouch for quality but reviews are good)
Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E2maCb7NXB9B8

For your second question, you could use an optical audio switch. Then you can use the remote to switch the inputs.
ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3X1 with IR Remote Control Aluminum Alloy SPDIF Switcher 3 In 1 Out with 6.6ft Optical Cable Supports PCM2.0 5.1CH DTS Dolby-AC3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F.maCbYFW5QB2

E10 has an SPDIF input correct? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Material-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550760148&sr=8-3&keywords=TOSlink+switch would allow you to run a tos cables from the PS4, PC and laptop (you could use hdmi for that) to the e10 and use the switch to move from one to the other.

Remote splitter for monitor on workstations Product Link

If you only want to get this working for one setup and never intend to go into this again, there are off the shelf adjustable four-way crossovers for less than $100:

https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-Way-Crossover-bandpass-control/dp/B017NOV8UQ

If you want to learn to design and build crossovers, there is free cross-over design software:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJqvjjyHqqA

Hint: The first crossover you build might cost over $100 in tools and parts, but subsequent units will be much less expensive than retail.

I was thinking of hooking up an AndroidTV to my vehicle; they have an adapter cable for analogue video input for the indash navigation system. Searched about and found several other people doing it, but with HDMI adapters like these: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-Composite-Converter-Converts/dp/B018D2OOXA

It's working great so far, but there are a few quirks. I have to manually toggle the optical input with a remote to switch between audio for my PC and PS4, but i'm not the type of person to have videos streaming while i play games. If i really wanted to, i could plug a cord into the AUX on my monitor and my Logitech 2.1 speakers to have concurrent audio.

Here's my setup:
PS4 HDMI is hooked into this box to split the audio out of the hdmi
HDMI from that box connects to my monitor and the optical cable plugs into this optical audio switcher
One optical cable goes from that switcher to my PC and the other connects to the speakers here

I haven't noticed any signal degradation despite the double boxes and extra cables stretching into every direction.

I've been using this one.

The cheap active HDMI splitters work just fine. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Outputs/dp/B002673EW6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1342402699&sr=8-8&keywords=hdmi+splitter

Don't those all plug in through HDMI? That doesn't change. Your audio will go from your devices to the tv no problem. Can your speakers accept optical audio? That is the real question. If not, you'll want a 3.5mm to optical converter, maybe like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7VG3YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_-TrNDb5G97Q3T

You'll plug the optical from your tv into the the input there, and your 3.5mm speakers into the output.

Also, just for reference, the breakout cable is for plugging in older devices, like dvd or an N64 or something. They get combined into that small 3.5mm style plug so that it's more compact than have all 3 giant ports.

I had a similar problem with the X850G model. It was kicking off my Sonos soundbar due to the random signals from the optical port. I was able to solve the issue by using the ARC HDMI port from the TV for sound using a Tendac audio extractor I found on Amazon. My soundbar only has an optical input, so this device was able to make the conversion. It was a pretty maddening experience until I found this solution.

those splitters are junk... do not buy them.. they burn out and you WILL loose signal 9/10...You need a powered splitter... cost more.. but will work...
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Outputs/dp/B002673EW6

I use this one.... works great... never looses signal...

The DAC in a receiver may or may not be any better than the DAC in a Chromecast Audio. The DAC in the NAD is probably better than the one in the TV. Could you hear a difference, maybe, maybe not.

One option is to convert analog to digital with a converter and then use an optical switch for 3 optical inputs or use an HDMI Chromecast on your TV so you only have one optical signal going into the NAD for those instead of two. However, converting the turntable signal to digital defeats much of the appeal of analog vinyl though you may or may not notice a big difference.

If you are going to upgrade, skip getting another slim amp which often have limitations and upgrade to a full size receiver.

Receivers:

If you are using it with a TV, I recommend an AV receiver for the HDMI switching even for just 2 speakers, since they have a high pass crossover for your speakers if using with a subwoofer, room correction and setup EQ with the including microphone and the option to add a center for better dialog and side speakers for surround sound. These both have dual optical inputs, 4 HDMI inputs and an internal phono stage phono input. Refurbished with a one year manufacturer warranty.

• DENON AVR-S640H 5.2 w/HEOS, $379.99 $199.99, 47% off msrp, Audyssey Multi EQ.
  
• DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2 w/HEOS $599.99 $299.00 50% off msrp, adds Audyssey Multi EQ XT and the option for rear or Atmos channels in addition to the side surround channels.
  
  Or a stereo receiver with 2 optical inputs and phono input but less features:
  
  
• ONKYOTX-8140 $399.99 $199.99
  
• Or the ONKYOTX-8270 $599.99 $349.99, is one of a few stereo recivers with HDMI switching along with the INTEGRA DTM-7 $649.99 $419.99.
  
  Turntable:
  
  The LP120 is ok but it is plasticy and some owners end up rewiring or ripping out the not so great internal phono stage/preamp and bypass switch that does not completely bypass it in order to use a better external phono stage/preamp.
  
  Consider looking for a vintage 70s direct drive. The LP120 is a copy of the much better Technics 1200 and there are other Technics models that have lower prices since they are not in demand from DJs like the 1200 is.
  
  If buying new, I recommend the Fluance RT82 with Ortofon OM 10 $300:
  
  
• Belt drive for motor noise isolation.
  
• Auto Stop
  
• Optical sensor speed controlled motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation specs than the LP120.
  
• Solid wood/MDF plinth, available in gloss black or walnut finish.
  
• You can also later upgrade to an acrylic platter that Fluance plans to offer separately soon for around $90. You can see it on the $500 RT85 that has the same motor, just different cartridge and platter.
  
• Optional upgrade now or later to an external phono stage/preamp with the Fluance PA10 $80 or the popular Schitt Mani on sale B-Stock $110 shipped.
  
  (Skip the cheaper RT80 or RT81 that do not have the optical sensor speed controlled motor.)
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  If you don't have a subwoofer, have you considered adding one to go with the KEFS?
  
  
• Lowest budget subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-1200 12" $150.
  
• KEF Q400 Q Series 10" $699.99 $399.99.
  
  Helpful Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Introduction to Audio Components | Lifewire • Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
  Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/hometheater.
  
  Speaker Positioning: Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening • How to position your speakers for great sound • Speaker Placement for Home Theater.
  
  TV Positioning: Vertically centered at eye level while seated.

No oppo or hdmi input on the AV receiver. Do you think something like this would work?

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Splitter-Extractor-Distributor-Projector/dp/B01KXIAIAK

The command is something like 73001# IIRC.

Also, we don't plug the computer into the CD player. We bypassed the CD player but used the same input.

Pro Tip: Make sure the Dukane and your Computer are powered via the same circuit. Otherwise you will introduce a ground loop hum. If you absolutely must, use a hum eliminator. We had to in two buildings. https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-IL-19-MINI-3-5mm-Stereo-Eliminator/dp/B01AQ7J3TA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503782848&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+hum+eliminator

Headphone out can work, but barring that, yes... an HDMI extractor will do the trick - if you have an HDMI ARC port on your TV.

(just an example - not endorsement of product)

• https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Extractor-Converter-Soundbar-Amplifier/dp/B07CJ96MQV
  
  If you don't have ARC out - then no. There would be no way of getting HDMI signal out of the TV - most are input only.

I would combine a bit of both. There's nothing inherently bad about prefabbed crossovers, as long as you don't spring for cheap ones and you take care to match them to your speakers. However, derwhalfisch's advice is best if you can manage your own crossover design.

I bought my first set premade (These) and I'm happy with them, but I'll be building my own from here on out. It's the better way to go, ultimately.

Did you try searching Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/WV-LINK-Composite-Adapter-Converter-Laptop/dp/B01CQRJEKG/ref=sr_1_12?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1468963592&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+to+rca&refinements=p_85%3A1

or

https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-to-Composite-Converter/dp/B018D2OOXA/ref=sr_1_25?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1468963642&sr=8-25&keywords=hdmi+to+rca&refinements=p_85%3A1

You can buy these and open controller and replace. It’s much cheaper than a whole new controller, you can look up a guide online, you’ll need some screwdrivers.

The reason why the replacement part is so cheap is because it’s simple mass produced and is literally used by both Microsoft and Sony in their controllers.

You might also be able to open up the analog stick part and uses compressed air to blow out dust that might be causing the stick drift.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Switcher-Control-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00Y0K9YXK

​

I've used this one in the past and is supported by logitech harmony remotes.

Had to find a mobo with 2 hdmi ports so you can have 2 independent monitors.Also

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Splitter-Support-Identical-VHD-0102M/dp/B002673EW6 you are going to need one of those otherwise.This means 3 cables instead of 2 and another power adapter to get it to use 12volts instead of AC120v.

http://www.logicsupply.com/ml100g-10/#overview comes with 2 hdmi ports

http://www.logicsupply.com/ag150/ comes with 1

this is the cheapest that i can come up with

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI AM1I Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $33.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | PNY Anarchy 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $14.99 @ Amazon
Storage | PNY CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Logitech K400 Plus Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad | $29.99 @ Best Buy
External Storage | Western Digital Elements 1TB External Hard Drive | $55.99 @ B&H
Other| case| $100.00
Other| psu| $45.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $354.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-10 04:37 EDT-0400 |

only way to avoid the mess is going the intel way and finding a mobo with 2 hdmi ports or displayport(5 dollar adapter to hdmi)+hdmi and running 2 cables after that.

You should find a compatitible heatsink for that mobo + case combo.And then buy 3 hdmi cables and the active adapter.


Last thing would be wifi and the OS of your choice and you are good to go.


I was looking into intels NUCs but they are kinda expensive and you still will have to get a case for those etc...

according to what i was able to find indeed you can!

that particular setup is using this hdmi splitter.

here is a video that uses another splitter you can look up as well :D

Probably not. But you could split the HDMI signal and watch the box on the downstairs T.V. Unfortunately, both t.v.s would watch the same thing.

I heard that I don't need a splitter if i have this capture card though? Cause it has a bypass? is that true?

My splitter is this one btw:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002673EW6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2BUXD0L1W5AKG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7JXEL4

> 3M 733 Dual Remote Splitter Kit The 3M 733 Dual Remote Splitter Kit is made for use with the 3M Workstation Monitor 724. The 733 monitors two workers at independent workstations that are close in proximity. Work station monitors use DC current to make a resistance determination. They continuously pulse a signal that is returned to the monitor through a special wrist strap and cord that contains two separate sets of independent conductors. They measure operator resistance to ground, have a resistor by-pass warning, use a safe, low current signal pulse, provide dual ground paths and have passive system actuation.

After having read that, I'm still not entirely sure what it is.

Thanks for the response.

Its not the phono pre, as the flutter issue was happening previous to getting the Mani. Not even sure if the Mani has any subsonic filter, actually.
I was getting the flutter with my old set up, and i'm also getting with my new setup. Makes me think its the TT motor or bearing like Artbrutist mentioned above.

I'm using these:
https://www.amazon.com/Harrison-Labs-Inline-Subsonic-Crossover/dp/B00S8XXWAG

Otherwise, the Mani has been really impressive. I have it set at the mid gain level and it made an appreciable improvement in the experience. At the high gain setting, I do get a touch of distortion at high volume levels, and the low gain setting is just really quiet.

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Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0119OKGVI?psc=1

I'm not sure if this will work for you, but I wanted to do the same with my setup. I have Spotify on my desktop in my office, and I wanted to play music simultaneously from my receiver in the living room. I use SPDIF (TOSLINK, optical out) to get music out of the computer that goes to a splitter. From there, the signal is routed to an external DAC that feeds the office speakers, as well as to a device that converts the SPDIF signal from optical to Cat5 (ethernet) cable. I use the existing cable in my house to feed a similar device at the receiver that converts it back to optical.

Computer--Splitter--DAC--Office Speakers
--Converter====Converter--Receiver
Where -- is optical and == is cat5.

Splitter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0119OKGVI

Converter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CTRUTN0

DAC: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2

Audioengine also has some wireless products that will allow you to do the same. I used to use a W3, but there's a slight delay and sometimes it skips. I've heard good things about the D2 however.
http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Wireless

Ahh, you’d run HDMI to the tv, then use an optical cable from the tv to the Anthem, but you’d need a optical to RCA converter to use it, such as this one.

Easiest solution would be an SPDIF to 5.1 analogue converter like this https://www.amazon.com/Wiistar-Decoder-Digital-Optical-Surround/dp/B0126U4C1Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510212924&sr=1-3&keywords=spdif+to+5.1, then three dual RCA to 3.5mm cables to the speakers.

There are also cheap little things like this, but I don't know how good they sound.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129FL3XG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

I wonder if there are some higher-end versions of that.

Theoretically, there's no reason for something that simply takes a digital input signal and outputs 5.1 surround analog line level out, to be expensive. That's like, 10$ in parts and there's not a lot of "magic" involved; it's not even like a headphone amp that needs to take a line-level input and amplify it.

But, there's probably not a lot of demand for something like that, so there may not be a middle ground between $23 gadgets and home theater gear that's the size of a Panzer...

Ok, thank you for the insight, that is what i was worried about. I've seen these boxes:

(https://www.amazon.com/Wiistar-Channel-Digital-Surround-Decoder/dp/B0129FL3XG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491936995&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=5.1+audio+gear&psc=1)

To your knowledge would this solve my dilemma?

The problem is, you're trying to plug three 3.5mm connections into a machine that only has one 3.5mm output. Those kinds of speaker set ups are meant for machines with a soundcard more commonly found in PCs that have three dedicate outputs, one for front left and right, one for rear left and right, and one for center and LFE.

I'd recommend this optical to analog interface and this cable to connect it to your iMac with.