Best home security systems according to redditors
We found 870 Reddit comments discussing the best home security systems. We ranked the 300 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 870 Reddit comments discussing the best home security systems. We ranked the 300 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
PM me your address and I'll buy you 4 of these. You'll get them by Tuesday. No one should be too scared to go to sleep.
Recommend this too. It's a doorstop that's loud as all hell. I mean like wake up everyone in the neighborhood loud. If they do get through...that'll wake you up and hopefully scare em off too.
Not legal advice, but since you said you have to be awake at night to make sure he doesn't hurt anyone, I would suggest getting these magnetic door alarms and put on his bedroom door to let you know if he leaves his room at night. If he's not allowed a bedroom door, then put them on your door & the other children's doors. They're cheap and yes they may wake the entire house up, but that's better than him skulking around with a knife or a lighter.
They also make wifi cameras that can send notifications to your phone when they sense motion or noise. Video footage may also be useful if he gets violent again or self-harms (self-endangering behavior can be common with RAD) and tries to make accusations against you.
Cameras - solve so many problems.
Just have it handy when he comes around, I'd say go for a no-flash / low-light kind of picture, and you can take that to the police.
It's ok. You woke up because your instincts told you something was up. That's the good thing here. The other good thing is that now you know she can unlock that stupid door, and that she will go outside. Now you can install and turn on these door chimes. Both of my kids escaped the house and were brought back by neighbors before they should have reasonably been able to unlock the damn door, and now we have these on every door AND one on the bathroom door so kiddo isn't getting in there at night either.
Additionally, I use a door monkey to lock him in his room at night and I have a vertical bar baby gate on his doorway since I'm paranoid. Little shit isn't getting out anymore.
ordered.
door alarm
door security guard
hook and eye qty 2
probably more than you need but that means you will have what you need.
Find someone to help someday on reddit or IRL. today you tomorrow me.
IANAL, but I work in digital forensics: Make sure Bluetooth is turned off; that is a huge entryway into your phone. Disabling automatic Wi-Fi connections will help.
Change the password on your home wi-fi network. Make sure your wi-fi has encryption (e.g. WPA2).
Consider getting an alarm system for your home; Amazon has some cheap ones you can install.. Maybe consider getting a camera, or at least a fake camera.
Check your home computer for any devices you don't recognize. A keylogger can look like anything that plugs into a USB port. It can also look like a USB adapter.
Backup any critical data to a cloud account, particularly anything that you're using to document your stalker. Save screenshots of his texts to you there.
install your own lock on the door, you don't need some asswipe lazy super to do it for you. also invest in a security camera system please
edit: jimmy-proof deadbolt or if you can't or don't want to modify the door, install one (or actually two, one on top and one on bottom) of these
You should also look into security alarms for your windows and doors, something like one of these. Or if you go through with the security system, you can get sensors that will let you know when doors are opened/closed.
People are psychopaths and can do really horrible things. People are also lazy (like your super or 311) and will only do as little as required. No one in this city will care about your security and well-being as much as you.
Yes! I gave up my Ring.com Pro and switched to an RCA HSDB2 doorbell. Been working great as part of my BlueIris set-up. This forum at IPTalk helped a lot with getting things working.
You can get cheap 120-decibel, battery operated door alarms from Amazon.
Door alarm
This is a cheap, damageless and effective way to see if someone is coming into your apartment while you're in it (esp overnight).
It makes a horrific noise when someone opens the door. It won't work when you're out of your apartment, but it can be effective in scaring people away!
This might seem silly, but have you tried skypeing with your husband as you fall asleep? It might ease your mind being able to talk to and see your husband next to you as you're drifting off.
Edit: As for actually safety (as opposed to just feeling safer), I just saw this in another thread: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M
You might want to get something like this for his windows and house doors. It would also work for a classroom door.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-NINAbGD5JPBX
Oh god, I have been dealing with this for a year. I know exactly what you are talking about. Some of my favorite dresses are missing. I found my bras with their straps all fucked with. She stole over 20 pairs of my underwear and crammed them under her bed covered in blood and other things. Jewelry missing. Everything rifled through and fucked with.
I put a lock on my door. When she discovered this, she waited til I was in the shower or even peeing and snuck back into my room and stole stuff so I literally have to lock my door whenever I leave my room for a glass of water. It's fucking ridiculous. So, one day I installed this bad boy. It has a "home" and "away" setting, and the "away" setting allows you to set the alarm and leave the room. Thirty seconds later it arms itself. And the thing is fucking loud. It shrieks until somebody inputs the four-digit passcode. Don't tell her that you're putting it on your door. Arm it, busy yourself with something else, and then watch her humiliate herself when she tries to sneak into your room again. Problem solved. I haven't had issues in months.
I use the RCA/HIK/ezvis/laview camera as it is the only one so far I have found that has a RTSP stream
https://www.amazon.com/EZVIZ-DB1-Doorbell-Connected-Vertical/dp/B07JNWP5M2/
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6/
https://www.amazon.com/LaView-Doorbell-Two-Way-Weatherproof-Security/dp/B07LFP9C9C/
Usually these kind of hairpins look like this.
The item in your photo looks like a lock picking tool.
If it were me, I'd put any valuables in a safe deposit box and carry some mace or other self defense items.
As another poster suggested, you can get inexpensive alarms for your doors and windows to use while you're at home.
Please stay safe. It may be a neighbor since they seem to know when you're out. There are ways to use an old cell phone as a security camera if you need an inexpensive alternative.
>And I'm sure there's some decent software out there that could detect movement and give you daily, timestamped screenshots of everyone coming in and out of the store.
$60
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Nickel/dp/B00N2ZDXW2 Ring Doorbell, i pay a couple bucks a month to have all videos saved.
A basic simple door alarm would have helped.
No pi controller (don't get too techy)
Here - https://www.amazon.com/GetTen-Wireless-Burglar-Security-Magnetic/dp/B00U4N2EQ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480055683&sr=8-3&keywords=door+alarm - you can get 10 alarms for $14 and sticky tape them to doors and windows. When the window opens? The alarm goes off if you didn't disarm it from the inside.
If you want something for a door you use often? This one is "fancy" and you can set it up for a PIN that you have to enter in less than a minute or it goes off (I want to say the ones I have on my rental properties are 15 seconds or all hell breaks loose with the alarm? It's not this one) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm-45117/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480055683&sr=8-2&keywords=door+alarm
Just get one of these
Check out the photos on the reviews. You can use the removable command adhesive strips to secure this to your door. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J5I5Bb7AM59KX
If they're on your porch, they're trespassing. Call the police (or ask "new guy" if he'll call the police if he spots them when you aren't home).
Also, get something like this:
Door/Window Alarms
They're cheap and easy to use. My elderly neighbor has one on her front door. She sometimes forgets to switch it off when deliveries arrive, and I can hear it in my apartment with my windows and door shut. It isn't loud enough to wake me up, but it definitely gets my attention when I'm hanging out watching TV. It's about as loud as a smoke alarm.
These stick on window alarms are relatively inexpensive and would probably wake you even with the white noise. Also, since you live alone, I'd suggest locking your bedroom door at night; attempting to break through your second line of defense certainly will wake you.
I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.
I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products
Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html
I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml
This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407
Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:
Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4
2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6
MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK
GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K
GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5
I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/
I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C
Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47
A few scenarios might help with inspiration.
I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.
If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness
I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely
My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced
This is terrible, and I'm so sorry you aren't being taken seriously.
You said you're in southern PA - try reaching out to the people at Laurel House. If you're not in the area they serve, they should be familiar with other regional resources and be able to refer you appropriately. They have a hotline number to call (1-800-642-3150), and I'm sure that they'll have advice and suggestions that we won't come up with.
I agree with the restraining order. Some thoughts off the top of my head about living alone:
But really, call that hotline I listed above, because I'm just spinning my wheels thinking of anything that could be useful and those people handle this stuff every day!
edit: added the hotline # since it's not on the Laurel House main homepage.
We recently got this doorbell / camera combo for under $200, and it can run on batteries and set up temporarily in a rental rather than being wired in like others.
It's wireless, so you can "answer" the door and talk to visitors via your cell phone if you're not home. You can also set it up to ping you when there's even movement outside your door, and you can startle people who didn't ring the bell, but are snooping around outside your door by talking to them too. The potential MIL fun to be had is endless.
Yeah, I called my BiL right away to make sure he was pressing charges and to find out what security he had been using. It is now on my Amazon wishlist; Canary Home Security
Pretty much most custom setups here use the aeotec z-wave stick and either Open Hab or Home Assistant. Open Hab has a pretty new configuration UI but its not finished yet so there is still a far amount of not so trivial configuring that you have to do. Home assistant is just writing config files (YAML) but the documentation is amazing and its pretty easy if you are even remotely tech savvy. As stated already in the thread you do need a spare computer to essentially act as a hub.
I've been running this setup for almost a year (home assistant) and I haven't had any problems so far, its very stable.
Also you can give home assistant a shot before you switch as it supports the smart things hub!
I've already said to another redditor about getting a door stop alarm: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000YNR4M
They're a pretty cool invention that will at the very least alert you to an intruder, and most are able to stop the door from opening any further so it stops anyone getting in. It won't be as ideal seen as you have roommates but I guess you could agree that whoever is in last puts it at the door before going to bed? It's a step up from a lock, but not as costly or deadly as a gun?
Well you wouldn't need to use it to launch the game, you could still launch regularly from steam. Also here's a Webcam for $4.38
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015TJNEY/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115
Also a door alarm.
I don’t understand why you’d go through all the effort to build something that looks like trash. And spend more for it.
In addition to a nanny cam, put one of these on your door, so you’ll get woken up if you’re sleeping and there’s a break in: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=psdc_14241131_t5_B00IJJY1Q8
Also, it’ll probably cause the person to flee.
My friend had a kid who could get into anything and out of anything. Childproofing mearly slowed him down a bit. She bought these alarm things for the front door. They didn't stop him, but they let off a super loud alarm, so she knew right away he'd opened an outside door!
I'd recommend a Sig Sauer P320 in 9mm - it's a striker-fired pistol that's easy to shoot in Full, Carry or Compact - but any similar set-up from Glock, S&W or Walther should work for you. Regardless of what you buy, though, I'd recommend a lockbox to store it securely. I prefer a mechanical lock like on this V-Line box - this is the model that I have.
For her, her favorite stuffed toy from Grandma.
For us, these. It makes use feel better to know she can't get out of the house without us knowing.
This has happened to me too. I'm so sorry you're going through this, it's so hard afterwards to calm yourself down. Can I please recommend you get some door alarms and put them on the exterior doors? They're loud but very effective. We have one for each door in and out, and we also used one on the bathroom when he was obsessed with putting toys in the toilet for a while. Right now my older son has one on his door when he's not in his bedroom to deter his younger brother from trying to steal his shit. Very handy!
Caught my stepson sneaking out at age 15. We went on full lock down mode, bought these alarms for the doors.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00178HMCI?keywords=door%20alarm&qid=1450789802&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3
Then we screwed his windows shut, because we caught him going out the window. That all worked. We had a helluva time with him, and although he is 19 now, I can't say it's worked out right. We did the best we could as parents. We did drug testing, too. I hate to say it, but you have to figure hormones are coming into play, so maybe a "check up" by the doctor is in order.
You can get cheap door alarms. You set one side up on the door and one on the frame and when the line is broken, it goes off. It has three settings, on, chirp, and off. Chirp makes a sound any time the door opens, and on does the alarm anytime the door opens. I don't remember what they're called but just look up door alarms.
EDIT: Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B008NXFKLK/R1SGS0ZR5GYAP7/ref=mw_dp_cr?cursor=1&qid=1376262848&sort=rd&sr=8-3
Bought the system myself. Works really well, as you can clearly tell by the gif.
I personally love the Arlo system (we got it on Amazon). It's wireless so it's easy to put up anywhere. It records in color, can see in the dark and sends alerts to our phones if movement or sound happens. You can also adjust the brightness and pan around (a little bit) remotely.
EDIT: This is the system we got, we plan to add more cameras later:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-NETGEAR-Security-System-Wire-Free/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1511468599&sr=8-24&keywords=arlo+system
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M
I would suggest talking to the cops if he’s showing up at your house. One instance won’t be enough for a restraining order but every bit of evidence helps. You can buy alarms that attach to windows and doors that will go off if it’s opened for about $10
Ah thanks. This product? https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2
It's not even discrete. I mean, it looks obvious there's a lens. I'm shocked this person didn't even realize there's a camera staring her in the face.
Several issues with that article but the main one is the Amazon links to the two cameras below their lists of features (itself a bit of a mess). First, both of the links are to the same product, the Arlo Pro. Second the link is to the add-on camera, which currently shows a price of $169.99. The add-on camera is useless by itself. The link should be to the Arlo Pro Security System with Siren, which is $227.00 with free shipping. The other link should be to the the Arlo VMS3130 Indoor/Outdoor Night Vision Security System with 1 Wire-Free HD Camera, which is $149.00 with free shipping.
You are correct to be paranoid, but thats just a natural reaction. Increase your security, and the paranoia should subside.
Some ways to beef up your urban living security situation
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1466991186&sr=1&keywords=alarm
real cheap door alarm
https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991209&sr=1-2&keywords=window+alarm
real cheap window alarms
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991241&sr=1-2&keywords=buddy+bar
cheap door bar
https://www.amazon.com/Buddybar-10311-Door-Jammer/dp/B002BQ4VBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991241&sr=1-1&keywords=buddy+bar
better door bar
https://www.amazon.com/Cardinal-Gates-Door-Guardian-White/dp/B004RL1IMC/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991276&sr=1-22&keywords=door+lock
cheap extra door lock
https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-3---1-Pepper-Spray/dp/B0007VHXLG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991342&sr=1-1&keywords=sabre+large
spray
https://www.amazon.com/Blink-Security-Wireless-Detection-Android/dp/B019S3ULQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466991363&sr=8-2&keywords=blink
relatively cheap cams
remember OP, rather be poor from spending money on all this shit than dead. layers count.
You can install certain alarms with double stick tape anywhere.
I like the ideas of a magnetic chime or alarm. It can alert you (and warn/scare the kid) that the door was opened but it doesn't prevent a door being opened in an emergency. These look good:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HMCI/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=3D99YYX2I5XKO&coliid=I2N7YRVEDBQRS0&vs=1
On the subject of kids escaping...anyone have a solution to for crank windows? I took the crank off so they technically can't "open it" but they can "unlock" the window. It has a stop built in so you can't just open the window without the crank (like if you unlocked it and pushed on the window itself, it doesn't open) but I don't really trust it in their second story bedrooms and I'm scared if they push hard on the window it will open and they can fall out. But I haven't ever seen locks for these types of windows. Anyone?
I build my own, from WanView IP cameras and a Raspberry PI battery powered micro-server DVR with email capabilities. The sensors are from harbor freight (driveway type)
http://www.amazon.com/Wansview-Wireless-Surveillance-Microphone-monitoring/dp/B003JLPWAK
You could have one pointed at your gun safe, or entry to your safe area (I do). The IP traffic is encrypted with a strong passphrase, as is the web site. My SO and I are on the email list for notification. Most of the time it is FEdEX or UPS delivering packages that set it off, as well as the Boys with white shirts/black ties/pants.
Hi! Welcome to the expensive, frustrating and exciting world of home automation!
You will find people using all sorts of things for switches, from arduinos shoved behind a wall plate, to multi-hundred dollar crestron panels.
I would suggest diving into the world of z-wave for this particular niche. I did a lot of research on this subject, and I think it will best accomplish your goal. GE makes a line of z-wave switches. They aren't cheap, but they work really well with home assistant. I would check those out! Feel free to PM me or reply below with any other questions.
Good luck!!
Edit: You might also want to check out something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU
Z-wave is a wireless technology. You will need something that speaks that technology to control the devices. I have one of these: Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5, Z-Wave Plus USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ plugged in to my pi3 running home-assistant. Works great.
HomeAssistant. You can even use your Smartthings hub to connect to your devices, but control everything through HomeAssistant without the flakiness.
A Raspberry Pi 3 is all you need.
However, if you need to throw your Smartthings hub in the trash and want everything local, you can buy this dongle for the Pi.
HomeAssistant is much more user friendly than OpenHAB, has phenomenal community support, and development is fast with improvements coming out on a very regular basis.
I think you'd get the most bang for your buck sticking with Z-wave. You don't even need to get the SmartThings hub. I use an Aeotec Z-wave stick plugged into the raspberry pi running HASS. If you are using the Hassbian image, they even have a script that will install open-zwave for you.
Turn on the emulated hue component and Google home should see everything. If you want to rename devices (you probably will), then use open-zwave-control-panel.
Most of this does require more effort than the hubs you mentioned. It's a trade off of time and effort vs cost.
Aeotec Z-wave Stick
HASS Z-wave Getting Started
open-zwave-control-panel guide
The OpenHAB wiki is pretty explicit that you need a Hue Hub to talk to Hue bulbs. Incidentally, OpenHAB talks to the Hue Hub via HTTP.
A lot of people who use Zwave and OpenHAB use the Aeotec USB Zstick, but there are other supported options, listed on OpenHAB's wiki.
I have recently gone down the road of automating my home. Here are some of my thoughts:
You can check all the components Home Assistant supports here. I have it configured with my TP-Link bulbs, switches, LIFX Bulbs, ZWave sensors, Zwave switches, Schalge Smart Lock, Roomba, NAS, Nest Cameras, Thermostat, etc...
Miscellaneous thoughts:
Hope this wall of text helps you. Happy Automating!
e: spelling
Samsung SmartThings Multipurpose Sensor - $30
Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor - $30
The lowest price ever offered on Amazon according to Camel3x.
The iHome 5-1 smart monitor has both light and motion detection. https://www.amazon.com/iHome-iSS50-Smartmonitor-monitoring-anywhere/dp/B01LZUSJ26
I use this with Blue Iris:
Doorbell Video Ring Security Camera by RCA New and Improved - with Mobile Doorbell Ring, 3MP HD Video, Live Stream, No Recording Storage Fees, Night Vision and Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GN355R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qABXDbSHE5XM2
The app is garbage and mostly unusable (by the time you can open up the app, put in the password, and view, the person is gone) but it works great with Blue Iris.
Sounds like you've done everything I would think to do in this situation. Your mother (and perhaps, you) may have lost the sense of security inside her own home at this point, so caring for that aspect will be important. If you'd like, I'd be willing to purchase some anti-theft items for your home to relieve just a bit of that stress. Some things I found on Amazon with Prime shipping and decent reviews are Addalock, Door Jammer, and Door Stop Alarm. The last one might quickly become a nuisance from false triggers or if people in your household go in and out of your home at random hours. PM me your mailing address if you'd like me to send any of these to you.
You can get a battery operated system for your windows and doors that will set off an alarm. They're easy to use and give you a measure of comfort.
Something like this might scare them away.
ditto. the simplex hit the sweet spot for me in terms of something i can open very quickly, potentially in the dark, and potentially while my adrenaline is pumping. i bought this one and i've very happy with it. come pre-drilled with holes so i bolted it onto the bottom of my nightstand with carriage bolts. no way it's going anywhere without my nightstand.
I looked around at reviews and all of the electronic lock boxes are total and utter JUNK. They run batteries down, fail to unlock, lose solenoid function, and are otherwise totally unreliable.
I got a V-Line gun safe that has the dead reliable and totally mechanical Simplex lock. I bolted it to the nightstand.
I keep a gun, a magazine, and the key to the rifle safe in it.
No complaints and can be easily opened in the dark.
If I take the gun off for even a few seconds to change clothes, it goes in the box and gets locked up.
I think this is probably the best you're going to get:
http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Home-Wire-Free-VMS3130-100NAS/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449101483&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+arlo
I would just use 3M strips to mount it if you can't drill depending on how heavy the camera is.
I would get an Aeon Z-Stick Gen5. I have one and it works (so far) i got a few devices connect. So far so good.
They are fairly low cost, and support ZWave Plus (I have a few sensors that are zwave plus).
Note it is the WHITE ONE. The black ones are the S2, they work great as well. But no zwave plus support, spend the extra 4-5$ for the current gen.
You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).
However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/
Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:
That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.
If you like to tinker, you could potentially get a cheaper hub by creating your own with Home Assistant. I'm running it on a spare PC, though it would probably work on a Raspberry Pi 3 just fine.
There are two potential downsides though:
If you're not interested in that, I think ST would be a great choice.
/thread I have a this guy which works great, but they are all (more or less) the same: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
I use OpenHAB with an Aeotec dongle. They work great together and require no access to the Internet. Run it on a Raspberry Pi with a USB Power Bank for handling power outages.
There are products like this, but the reviews show people having a good amount of success as well as people who say it doesn't work.
Also, there are things like this, where it will merely alert you to your door opening.
Ok, I have a couple of suggestions.
First, what is your door made of, and how sturdy does the jamb look? I'll give you a hint: the jamb isn't sturdy enough. There are kits you can buy online to reinforce the door jamb (like the strikemaster pro 2). A good kit will have a steel bar that spans most of the jamb, hinge reinforcement, and a strike plate that goes around the deadbolt. The major advantage is that the door/hinge reinforcements have about a dozen 3" screws on these kits that go all the way into a stud, making it much more difficult to kick in. The door itself is much, much stronger than the jamb, which is usually very thin wood and not secured to much. Nothing will make the door impenetrable, but jamb reinforcement will help. At the least, an intruder may bail and break into someplace that's easier to enter. As for the door itself, you can consider replacing it with a steel door or a stronger wooden door. Odds are pretty good that it's plenty sturdy though - the real point of weakness is the jamb.
Your locks... That's another story. Ever hear of bumping? This is how easy it is to open most deadbolts with a $2 bump key that can be bought online or made at home. Unless your lock has an unusual key shape, it's probably susceptible to this "technique". There are locks on the market that make this more difficult or impossible if it's something you're worried about. Most thieves seem to prefer (based on what statistics I've seen) just kicking the damn thing in, but it's something to consider. But anybody who wants in badly enough is going to gain entry somehow. Once they're in, you want to make sure you know about it and hopefully they get scared off. On to alarm systems.
As for an alarm system, I cannot recommend the SkyLink system (based on the SC-100 control panel) enough. It's about $100 on Amazon. It's all wireless, control panel has battery backup, and it can be quickly and easily customized by adding extra sensors for door/window, motion, flood and vibration. You can attach extra keypads and sirens, program zones and alarm modes, and even attach an auto-dialer if you have a landline. It can't directly call 911, but you can have it send a recording to like 8 different numbers if the alarm is tripped. I had a simple set up in an apartment (control panel, extra keypad, door sensor, and extra siren) with it in about 15 minutes. I've since moved to a townhouse and expanded the system to about 10 sensors, 3 keypads, 3 sirens... It's cheap, reliable, and effective. While it doesn't give you the "cops are on the way" effect of a pro-monitored system, it gives you peace of mind that nobody is getting into your home while you're there without you knowing about it. Plus, any petty thief will hear the alarm run like hell (seriously, who puts an alarm in an apartment??). Effective range advertised is 100 yards, in actuality it's about 100 feet through walls, further if there's nothing blocking the signal.
There are lots of alarm options out there to look at, though... You can get an Ademco from many sites -- it's professional equipment and you'll need to know what you're doing to install it. This is the exact same equipment you'll get if you buy a monitored system (well, models vary but you know what I mean). You can get some wireless gadgets, but it's far more complicated and expensive than the skylink. There are also some smaller-scale systems to consider as well (which may be just fine if you're only securing two doors and aren't looking to expand the system) like this one by GE and this other one by skylink (does not include the master control panel, armed and disarmed by key fobs). Look around on Amazon, there's a pretty decent market for these types of alarms.
Sorry for the wall of text -- I've been researching door reinforcement recently, and no kidding, I love my skylink system.
Edit: added link for SC-100 system
Buying local for something like this is dumb if you are on a budget. You will get raped on prices and selection. Amazon is your friend.
The guy that suggested android phones is out of his element. How are you going to mount the phone securely? You going to have an array of 2-4 android phones? Get something like this if you are on a budget:
http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-PKD-DK4216-500GB-Internet-Accessible-4-Channel/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420300986&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+camera+system
I have set up a few home and home-office solutions with ZModo. It is shitty software, but you get a full recording rig for 200 bucks.
As someone else stated you probably will not identify them. I sense you are on a budget. How about something like this? I have set this and similar up for a few people too. Works alright. Once an alarm starts squelching most thieves kick it quickly. http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Alarm-Kit/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420301364&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+home+alarm
Locksmith here. Unless you spend upwards of $1000, any biometric device you get will be crap. I'd suggest something like a 4-button GunVault if you want to go electronic, and test it 3 or 4 times a week to make sure it still works. Personally, I use something I built myself that uses a Simplex mechanical pushbutton lock, similar to the V-Line lock box. No batteries, decent security, and a reliable Simplex locking mechanism that's been used by government agencies for 40 years. Google around for "simplex" + "gun safe" or "gun vault" or "lock box" or the like until you find something that suits your needs.
I think a mechanical button lock is the best bet for quick access while still being secure.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=FM4JGE9SFLIN&coliid=I3CY04WYMTMX15
maybe not that exact model but that is the kind of locking mechanism I'm talking about.
Also, the biggest safety measure needed to be taken? Educate your kid about guns and gun safety.
http://www.corneredcat.com/article/kids-and-guns/the-first-lesson/
http://www.amazon.com/Webcam-Camera-Vision-Meeting-compatible/dp/B0015TJNEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321044855&sr=8-1
Just a cheap lil' guy. Good enough for what I need it for.
To send cock pictures to every female on Reddit.
She could try alarms on his bedroom door and would know immediately if he got out of his room.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510192745&sr=8-3&keywords=door+alarm&dpID=41TKiINpXOL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
He also needs consequences for his actions.
This is horrific, I'm so sorry you have to deal with this. My first thought is very basic, those little door sensors that make a ton of noise when the door is opened.
Something like this
They're not fancy, but would probably be a good solution to scare somebody off until you figure out something more permanent.
Edit: fucking hyperlink, Jesus.
I had never lived alone either, I went straight from my mum's to a friends and then in with my STBX. I was in the house for a couple weeks on my own and now in my own apartment since the beginning of this month. I am a very anxious person. I'm also very paranoid. I got an apartment with a garage. It was more expensive and obviously not possible everywhere, but something like that made me feel safe. A few other things I did: got a taser, got an addalock, got an alarm system (simpli safe, it includes a panic button next to my bed), got a baseball bat and got these two little cheap alarms off amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI ) that I turn on at night so if anyone opens my doors I can hear them. Don't know what I will do if I hear it, grab the baseball bat and hide in the bathroom?
I have 2 cats, they are pretty good about looking up if they hear a noise, but the fridge spooks them, so, I don't rely on them. A lot of people suggested a dog, but I'm only allowed 2 pets and my cats would likely murder me. I keep the light above the oven on all night, it's enough light so I can see out my bedroom doorway at night. I don't know when I became afraid of the dark, but there you go. Hopefully I'll get over it.
Before I moved out, I read a lot of articles about women living alone. Everything said get a dog, make friends with your neighbours (they'll notice if something odd happens or if they hear anything), don't do anything stupid, like be alone with delivery men or share a bunch on social media about where you live. I've posted things about living alone, but nothing really outside or local where people could figure out what apartment complex I'm at. not that I think they would, but like I said, I am an anxious and paranoid person.
I'm an introvert, but my love language is quality time lol... so I get lonely very easily. I've had people over, even to just watch a movie, or I go out to Target because it's a few mins away and I just wander the aisles. I've watched more TV than I used to and I do spend a bit more time on reddit. I'm sure I'll get used to being alone soon, but it's hard to adjust. This might seem silly because it doesn't directly have to do with loneliness or anxiety, but focusing on all the advantages of living alone helps as well - like I can buy certain foods without worrying someone will eat them all in one sitting! I can have my music on without annoying anyone watching football... hey, football never has to be on in my home again! I can leave a light on without anyone coming behind me and switching it off. I can have chips and dip for dinner. I can watch dorky cheesy movies without listening to someone's commentary on how dorky and cheesy the movie is. Reminding myself of all those silly little things chips away at the loneliness, which makes me feel more comfortable which makes me less anxious.
So, long story long, for my anxiety, the alarm system helps make me feel safe and I appreciate having the light on in the kitchen overnight. Find those things for you, and do them, regardless of how silly they might make you feel. Hope this helps, sorry for the novel :)
Looking Through Amazon - Search for Zwave Scene
ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave 7-Button Scene Controller
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Leviton VRCS4-M0Z Vizia RF + 4-Button Remote Scene Controller
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GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller
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Just the top most three.
Wow. I've got 2 of the SC7s and they are really great, especially for the price. I found 2 sites selling them for ~44 + shipping, but I got them originally for <$40 shipped. There is the GE 45631, but it appears to work as a full secondary controller rather than a scene controller. Even the Levitons are more expensive now!
Aeotec has the minimote, but it's not wall-mounted--there's this Eaton controller, but it's still more than the Enerwaves for fewer buttons. The only other ones I know of are the Evolve LCD scene controllers, but they're way expensive. Really not sure what happened to the trusty Enerwaves...
This enerwave controller looks fairly similar aesthetically http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/scene-controllers/products/enerwave-7-button-scene-controller-zwn-sc7-z-wave
Leviton makes some multi zone/scene controllers too, but they are pricey. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRCS4-M0Z-4-Button-Remote-Controller/dp/B0050T2O1O
And GE has some (imo) ugly ones too https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU
Your treatment wasn't their idea, so of course they don't like it. They are unable to take credit for it, and it doesn't make them look good.
On a side note, get a cheap alarm, and a deadbolt lock if you don't already have one.
Just wanted to post in here a few things.
I'm glad they are taking this seriously for you! Terrifying incident and not something I would ever want to experience.
A few things you can do to help you feel better about being home alone. Obviously make sure your doors are locked (thankfully in this case it seems like they were) just to help prevent someone coming in by opening it. There is also something called "door Jam armor" that I was recommended here to prevent someone from kicking in your door. It's not expensive, really easy to install and unobtrusive.
There are little chimes you can get for windows Amazon link that are equally unobtrusive and just make a very loud chirping noise if the window is opened without them being disengaged. These would wake you up similar to a smoke detector but louder.
You can also pick up keychain mace, or just regular mace to carry around and have at home so that if someone physically stronger than you breaks in, or tries to attack you there is a way to respond.
If you are comfortable with it having a gun at home can give you a means of self defense in the case of someone larger breaking in. It's not for everyone, but it is a tool that helps some people feel more comfortable after incidents like this. My mother experienced a very traumatic incident with a neighbors home and could not stand to be at home alone until she had picked up a gun. She's never had to use it but it made her feel much safer being a smaller, single woman.
Ultimately you are unlikely to ever have an incident like this occur again, thankfully! But taking a few steps to make yourself feel more comfortable in your own home, and be prepared just in case something happens is not the worst move.
You can get something like this in the meantime. They tend to carry them at home improvement stores. Place them on your front door and your sliding door, as well as any bedroom windows.
Also with regards to changing the locks—most places state that if you change them yourself it’s allowed, provided you return the new keys upon moving out and immediately give the landlord/office a copy for their master set. Look over your lease and see.
If you’re in a US state with no waiting period and can afford it OR you can borrow one, get a shotgun. You don’t need bullets/shells. Hear me out. The point is not to keep a loaded gun or be prepared to use it; the point is to use the sound of the shotgun slide racking to scare someone off if they happen to make it inside. You can ask the gun shop to show you how to rack it. It’ll make a very loud “ch-chuck” sound that is enough to scare just about any intruder away. Guns hold their value extremely well so once this gets sorted out you can sell it without taking a financial loss.
Alternatively if you have a webcam you can turn it into a security cam with software until your security system arrives. Just point your laptop or webcam at the door and it can be programmed to start recording/snapping pics when it detects motion. I used one when I lived in an old apartment before leaving on vacation. The quality usually isn’t great but you’ll have the images saved on your phone.
I hope you stay safe! Please update us!
The one I've heard good things about is [Ring] (https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2) which isn't the cheapest option, but seems pretty simple and easy to set up with your home wifi.
Stay on alert, you never know what they're going to decide is the correct response to not getting Nsupply. . .
Do you have any interest in going a different route, such as an electronic camera doorbell? My parents have one, and it shows up on your phone when the doorbell rings. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2
You could keep your big hulking wood door, which would be my preference! Yes, someone could break your glass patio door. That doesn't mean you should abandon all other areas of security. :)
Netgear makes some. Arlo Smart Home Security Camera System - 2 HD, 100% Wire-Free, Indoor/Outdoor Cameras with Night Vision (VMS3230) by NETGEAR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OYwzxb1HS9Y9E
r/letnotmeet has an official guide on the sidebar that has good tips as far as safety/physical security goes. one thing that's not on there are what's called "security bars" that you can buy from amazon. they block in doors/windows/sliding doors from being broken in while you're at home, like when you're sleeping.
i'd also consider posting on trollx for advice as well. there's some of us trolls who've gone through some shit and may be able to give good advice.
for restraining order, for one thing, he'll need the exact address of where he needs to stay away from. since he already knows her home address, i would just be careful putting on there specific locations that he doesn't know about, if that makes sense. restraining orders might only be half as helpful if there isn't some way to catch him violating it. i'd recommend some sort of night security camera. i put these on my tech wishlist after ppl recommended them on the recent r/aww post on the cat triggering the night camera:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&amp;coliid=I32NXUP8ELY3US&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MMRV1M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&amp;coliid=IXT7HPA0HMC8D&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4BG4K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&amp;coliid=I2NHMUTKAQWLNC&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&amp;coliid=IYEA8OCV4N4GA&amp;psc=1
as for stopping cold turkey or de-escalating, that's up to her. but whatever she chooses, and hell, even now, she NEEDS to be prepared for his possible actions when she does do it, cuz he's gonna get pissed, which might lead to silent insidious revenge or straight out attack.
that means not going anywhere alone, securing her house and car when she's alone, setting up apps that can be immediately triggered quietly to call for help, carrying pepper sprays/defense stuff depending on local laws, etc etc, there's a lot you can do. and making sure her friends/family/coworkers/employer knows -the more eyes keeping a lookout for him the better (show them a picture of him). these fuckers relish on getting the upper hand and she needs to get in control of the situation. (and yes, i know a lot of this stuff from reading that sub)
also, breaking and entering IS a crime, wherever you are. if she catches that on tape she's golden as far as restraining order or even straight up charging him with it. she should start a journal log, writing down exact dates/times/details of any event, small or big. if it ever goes to the police or court, it'll help tremendously. she can also low-key record conversations with him on her phone, just turn the indicator light switch off.
best of luck and safety to you and your friend.
-trollx
RPi3 running homeassistant.io and mostly Z-wave devices with an AeonLabs Z-Stick. Your concern is why my reef tank is actually using an RPi3 to communicate with an arduino mega over serial USB. I get way more pins and better hardware processing out of the arduino and use the RPi3 for automation, display, and command and control.
I have a few circuits in my home where I can't easily install remote controllable switches or dimmers. I ended up using hue bulbs in those fixtures and it works great. The hue (white only) bulbs are as low as $13 each at amazon. IMO getting the hue hub and bulbs is worth it. It is reliable and integrates with everything. I also like that I have the option to add some colored accent lights later.
I use these z-wave motion sensors and they work really well. They are small, accurate, also read temperature and brightness, and they don't actually look like eyes as in the marketing pictures.
I run all of this off of Home Assistant on a raspberry pi 2 with an aeotec zwave stick.
Oh, so I don't even need the expensive Vera hub, right?
You'll also need a z-stick to manage the z-wave network.
edit: some more detail, sorry. I use an off-the-shelf hub myself, but to the best of my knowledge you'll need a z-stick to act as your primary controller. Plug this into OpenHAB or HomeAssistant and they'll interact with the network through the z-stick.
Also, you can get a comparable door sensor from Monoprice for much less.
Only if you also install a Z-stick.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
I've had it running in a Jail in Freenas for a little over a year now without any real issues. I don't have to reboot it after awhile either. I've had the boot usb drive die (mini-samsung didn't like the constant heat I think) and the network card die (realtek is realshit).
Hardware List:
I have this one, works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1457378859&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=z-wave+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31ocIoiJV9L&amp;ref=plSrch
I don't have any zigbee devices though, all Z-wave
Welcome to OpenHab! I've been using OpenHabian on a Raspberry PI for over a year and I love it.
Here's a link for steps to install OpenHabian on a Raspberry PI.
I'm not sure if it's the best Zwave stick but I use the Aeotec Z-stick Gen 5. I've been using it for over a year and it works great, I haven't had any problems. Getting my Zwave stuff working was the first thing I did when I started using OpenHab, so I'm a little foggy on the setup steps. I think I referenced this link to setup my Zwave stick with my OpenHabian. I don't remember using a guide to setup the Zwave stick. I'll poke around to see if I can find one.
If you haven't already, I would recommend reading through the Overview section on the OpenHab website before starting to setup the Zwave stick. That will walk you though the main concepts of OpenHab. If you need more help let me know. I would be happy to offer recommendations for different sensors and actuators that have worked well for me.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/
Heres the zwave USB stick I use. Home Assistant is great, I run it on a Ubuntu server in my basement. The zwave stick is plugged into it.
I actually thought of something else that might help. I am currently using Smartthings motion sensors which connect to my Smartthings hub over Zwave. The motion sensors themselves are battery powered, and I have them mounted using double-sided tape, which means they don't need to be physically connected to anything to work. If you already have a Zwave network, you can just affix a motion sensor like this inside your mailbox and you would probably be able to pick up the signal from within your apartment. The motion sensor also reports temperature, so this would give you an external temperature sensor as well. Now that I'm thinking about it, I will probably try this myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-IRM-US-2-Motion-Sensor/dp/B01IE35PCC
Try the iHome 5 in 1 Smartmonitor:
https://www.amazon.com/iHome-iSS50-Smartmonitor-monitoring-anywhere/dp/B01LZUSJ26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542253699&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iphone+5+in+1+smart+monitor\
This is the new version of that. It appears to still be Hikvision on the backend so it should be ONVIF or at least RTSP streamable locally. There isn’t much known yet because it just showed up. It should fix a lot of the problems with the one linked about though because of the 5ghz Wi-Fi. Here is the IPCamTalk thread on the doorbell where someone has been doing packet captures to try and figure out how to stream from it. It looked like someone had it working in BlueIris.
Side note, I have the RCA rebrand of the Uniden one and it works really well. I have an AP within 5 feet of it, so that pretty much eliminates he Wi-Fi issues. Have it recording to a Hikvision NVR locally and works great.
The issue I had when trying to figure this out was that any Z-Wave contact sensor I tried to use while it was mounted inside the mailbox was unreliable, at best. The RF signal was getting blocked by the mailbox when it was closed. I solved it by mounting this open/close sensor to the underside of the mailbox, mounting this magnetic sensor inside the mailbox at the door, and running the lead from the magnetic sensor through a tiny hole in the bottom of the mailbox, connecting it to the auxiliary input terminals hidden inside the z-wave sensor. If that doesn't make sense, DM me.
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Edit: Obviously this would also require a hub such as SmartThings, etc., to send out the notifications.
Edit 2: After a quick search, it appears there may be some WiFi dry contact sensors out there that would probably do what you want without the need for a separate hub, if you have signal at the mailbox.
I don't have Aeotec's door sensor but I do have the multisensor 6. I also will not be buying any more sensors after that experience. Hardwired the motion sensor works ok but I question the readings I get from the other sensors. On batteries it's a crapshoot, which sucks because I really want more to use some more of those types of sensors.
For door sensors I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5 and they work great.
I was looking for something similar. My requirements were as follows:
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Powered by doorbell transformer (16-24VAC) not batteries
Small footprint (width <= 2" wide)
Wifi
No cloud dependency
Unobtrusive, doesn't look ridiculous (subjective)
Doesn't cost a fortune ($200 or less)
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I found this one and am very happy with it. From what I've been able to find for info it appears to be an OEM version of a Hikvision NDB313-W and is very similar to the LaView Halo One and the RCA Video Doorbell versions but without the associated branding and reliance on their branded apps. It costs $140 shipped and uses a micro SD card (16GB card included) for local storage. As a bonus and though undocumented, it appears to be ONVIF compliant and I was able to add it to my Amcrest NVR as an ONVIF camera and am recording video 24/7. I've only had it installed for a week or so and installation was simple. It uses the EzViz app, which while a bit clunky is very workable.
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I initially had issues getting my indoor mechanical chime working with it but the issue turned out to be existing transformer was too underpowered (10 volt 5 VA) to pull in the chime's solenoid. I replaced it with a 24V 40VA transformer and all has been fine since. Nelly's Security tech support was very responsive and helpful and my only complaint with the doorbell is that it plays a "ding dong" sound from its' internal speaker when the doorbell button is pressed. Nelly's is looking in to the issue it pretty sure it can be disabled.
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As far as your particular use case goes you obviously won't get the "someone is ringing your door bell" notifications if you're away from home and the doorbell might not have internet access. But it will record motion events on its' internal micro SD card and you should be able to view them using the EzViz app when you're connected to your local network. And if you have an ONVIF compliant NVR you should be able to record the video from the doorbell cam.
RCA has one https://smile.amazon.com/Doorbell-Security-Camera-RCA-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6
Which ecosystems are you already using (zwave, zigbee, wifi, 433 etc..)?
I've been using these zwave door sensors for a while and they are ok. Funky little batteries (you can get rechargeable ones on amazon), but they pair pretty easily and respond quickly for both open and close events.
For my master bedroom, I've wired magnetic contact switches to a wemo d1 mini. So far so good. I wish I was able to hardwire all of my doors and windows to a central location. Seems more reliable, no batteries and a *lot* cheaper than wireless devices on every door and window.
Hikvision makes a wireless one that will stream to a regular recorder or/and use a SD card, here is the RCA branded one: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6
I created a setup where I have the exact same thing happen for me, but with the coffee machine. I use Vera, but I'm guessing you might be able to create something for another home automation setup...
Here's the basic setup:
Security sensor mat placed in my bed senses when I'm laying down. The mat is wired into a door sensor. When I wake up, the door sensor trips and starts a timer. Should the timer complete, the appliance plug the coffee machine is plugged into turns on. 1/2 hour later it automatically shuts off.
The reason for the timer is so that I can get up in the middle of the night for a snack and come back to bed WITHOUT turning the coffee machine on.
Here's what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUNX7WY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'd make sure to use these two items together. I pulled the alarm off of the door mat and wired the two wires into the phoenix connector screws already supplied inside the door sensor. The timer was a plug-in in the vera controller.
Here's the zwave device I used with the wire terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5
Edit: More details about how I wired it...
Took the chime box off the wall and there were two cables, each with a pair of wires inside. One pair of wires goes to the transformer in the basement. The other pair of wires goes to the doorbell itself. That's what you want to plug into the doohickey linked above. Someone presses the doorbell and it closes the contact. Home Assistant will see the zwave device status as "open" as if a door is open. This is what you trigger your automation off of.
How to know which pair of wires is the one you want? Either get a multimeter and put it across a pair while you're five year old pushes the doorbell. Does resistance go to zero? If so, you found it.
The other method is to just rub the wires in a pair together. The one that sparks is not the one you want because that goes to your transformer (you're seeing 12 volts spark across it. Not much more dangerous than licking a 9v battery). Grab the other pair and plug them into the doohickey. This is the method I used.
I just taped the door sensor to the top of the chime box and I can't see it from the ground.
This is a fairly inexpensive one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZUSJ26/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it goes on sale, every now and then, for $19
iHome 5-in-1
+1 to this. I used the RCA version which had the extra faceplates (which allows the camera to be angled to the side). Works great with Surveillance Station. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN355R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up the iHome 5-in-1 sensor and I'm doing something similar to this with it, but for temperature. Oddly enough, I have to use the Elgato Eve app to set up the automation. Here's the setup:
-Koogeek wifi smart plug
-iHome sensor
-Eve app
-if the temperature goes below x or above y, turn off/on outlet, respectively
It shows up in the Home app as a really funky automation but it works. Anyways, you might have some luck with the iHome sensor. Oh, it also shows up in the Home app without any work arounds and can be used as a triggering event.
iHome iSS50 5-in-1 Smartmonitor, 24/7 Home monitoring from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZUSJ26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CB7AzbPRHHBQJ
Ahh yeah, family complicates what should be a business matter.
The temporary lock, i think, would technically still be a violation, but it'd at least protect you from light attempts to enter, at least while you're at home. You could probably accomplish a similar result by using a doorstop. And I see one that has an alarm; that'd be nice so if someone tried to get in, it'd wake you.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-50246-Smart-Home-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M
Put it far enough from the door that you can open the door without triggering it, but close enough that they trigger it because they don't know it's there. If you're friends with one of your neighbors, let them in on it. Tell them to call the cops when they hear it go off.
ah yes, maybe this one. should work with sliding doors
I'm not up on CA stun gun regulations, but here in Louisiana, my wife and I both have this stun gun from Academy Sports. It's nice that it doubles as a pretty decent flashlight as well as having some pretty mean prongs on the front that I wouldn't want to be hit with.
For the house, you could look into those stick on alarm systems which you can usually find at Lowe's or Home Depot.
You could look into self defense classes for her as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P42azbKT4FVKW
I got this one because it comes with the window alarms, but you can just get the door one. It was easy to install. It just sticks onto the door, and then the sensor on the door frame.
You can use it on rented homes/apartments because it doesn't call 911 and you can remove it later.
u/agamemn_anon
I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ao4PwbVEVD67Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD5HJE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Mo4PwbCFS61SJ
I'm from a extremely small town maybe 2 murders in like 20 years or more. Break ins unheard of etc. I'm in a place literally over 200xs bigger I'm was so paranoid all the time. I know the wireless alarms won't do much to protect but it's an awesome deterrence.
Bake some cookies and give them to your neighbors extra eyes are always welcome. Our apartment has security and everyone is pretty nice.
You need to set up a security system. The most important part is the alarm. As soon as that alarm goes off, the people are gonna run. Another thing you can do is get a spotlight pointed on your entryway, or just something to give your outdoors more light.
http://www.amazon.com/51107-Smart-Wireless-Alarm-System/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1333244825&amp;sr=1-2
Amazon sells personal security alarms for apartments. link
V-Line Top Draw is my recommendation. Mechanical simplex lock. No batteries to worry about.
V-Line Top Draw Security Case (Black) by V-Line http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Sb82tb1V972MG
My wife is the exact same way, I use a V-Line top draw.
I went with the V-Line Top Draw after similar research/thoughts about electronic systems. I like it quite a bit, it's very simple, not electronic, and quite well built/heavy gauge steel for what it is. Easy to quickly open, and I think plenty safe against accidental access from children or people who don't know any better (not against someone determined to get in and steal the contents.)
It holds my G19 + 2 spare mags and Five-SeveN/TLR-2s + 2 spare mags snuggly but without issue.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T24OFG
Something stupid like this may help you ID them:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45117-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm/dp/B0014A4JWU
I have this one, 10 bucks on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45117-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414035916&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=door+alarm
It's pretty loud. Can be set to go off as soon as the door opens or set to go off 30 seconds after the door opens in away mode.
I highly recommend that anyone reading this, if you have no security system at a minimum pick up some simple magnetic alarms.
Here are some cheap ones.
https://www.amazon.com/GetTen-Wireless-Burglar-Security-Magnetic/dp/B00U4N2EQ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481680712&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=door+alarm
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm-45117/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481680712&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=door+alarm
https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Wireless-Security-Window-Burglar/dp/B00M30SKM0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481680712&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=door+alarm
If you are not home the loud alarm may be enough to chase them away, especially if you live in an apartment building where people might come looking.
But the more important part is that no one can come in while you're home without you knowing immediately. No one can sneak in at night or (definitely a concern to women) attack you by surprise.
I used this one before we got a monitor with built in webcam
There is one on amazon for 5$
here
decent reviews for how many they sold vs how much it costs!
Theres inexpensive door chimes that go off when door is opened.
GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8jsDbQ5ZP65J
https://www.alzstore.com/door-chime-alarm-add-on-p/0068.htm
I used to use simple stuff like this for when i had to travel with Alzheimer's parent bc you can like tape it to the hotel door and such. It wont keep them in though but it could wake you.
Some fancier for Alzheimer's:
https://www.alzstore.com/door-alarm-sensor-kit-p/0070.htm
Theres mats for beds and floors that detect when someone is out of bed or on the floor next to bed.
NYOrtho Bedside Floor Mats for Elderly Fallshield - Handicap Non-Slip Beveled Edge Fall Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CFY4G48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbksDbA22JA4G
Smart Caregiver Wireless and Cordless Weight Sensing Bed Pad - 10" x 30" (Monitor or Alarm Included). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043RFKME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sdksDb14D24AM
I havent tried these though. I heard if you get a junk one though and your person is very light they might not set off the alarm..?
If you are only relying on alarms youll get this paranoid pavlovian response of "what was that? Was that the alarm? I better check!"
You could try locking them in tho it might cause a horrible reaction (frantic panic and wanting to escape type of thing). If you try this try for a cheap test first. :p. My dad would have busted the door down.
But ill be honest, the best thing we ever did to control wandering was to put up a perimeter chainlink fence, so even if they make it out, you know they are not getting far. We had a child safety rail on the bed to discourage attempts, a door chime, and a chainlink fence.
My mom didn't want to lock the door because sometimes she wanted to leave it open when it was hot, and she wanted to hear them and be able to rush in quickly in case they were in distress or fell. We tried id bracelet but dad kept taking it off
Many judo clubs are very much non-profits. You might be able to explain your financial and living situation, and get a reduced rate. I bet most any place I've trained in the last 10 years wouldn't turn me away if I was in danger and couldn't afford training.
Tasers are just going to be expensive no matter what. Plus you have to periodically train with it, and a single training cartridge costs something like $25. May be something to think about long term, but probably not a short term solution.
One of the cheapest, fastest, and easiest things I can think of is to get some of these stickers and put one around the area of concern. It absolutely will not stop someone who knows what they are doing, but it might give pause to some people.
When I mentioned alarm systems, I was thinking something more expensive, but you could also get something like this or this. The main purpose of this is to just make sure you don't get caught sleeping. That's a nighmare scenario. If someone breaks in, and you know about it, have a bat or something and fight. Your odds really aren't that bad. (Thieves and rapists really aren't looking for a life-or-death fight.)
None of this is ideal, but it can help a lot.
I'm not a EE so don't know much about noise and cable length, but my hunch is that you should be able to run something that long with shielded cable, as opposed to just regular old unshielded hookup wire.
Are you going to build the actual sensors yourself? If you're running a whole bunch of cable it might be just as simple as creating two metal contacts for each door that touch/don't touch when the door is closed/open respectively, creating a closed or open circuit. If you want something fancier, there are a bajillion varieties of window/door alarms like this that you could probably hack.
While "drill a hole in the wall" is probably the easiest solution, as you mentioned, it's not that elegant...I haven't done anything with wireless transmitting before, but it looks like SparkFun carries relatively cheap RF transmitters and receivers. I didn't look at the data sheets so I don't know if you can just continuously broadcast analog data from the transmitters and have the receivers hooked up to your Arduino inside, or if you'd need one on both ends. If you do need a second Arduino, there are cheaper options like the Pro Mini - I just ordered one a few days ago (haven't gotten it yet), but my impression is that it's smaller, and basically the same thing as the Uno but you have to solder everything yourself, making it nicer for permanent embedded projects.
I'd be interested to see how this turns out to set up something similar in my own house, in case you feel like posting pics/code/circuit diagrams when you're done.
Get one of these door alarms to turn on for when you're not home. They pretty loud, and night scare away a burglar during a break in. Not as good as paying for actual security monitoring of your apartment, but it's something.
There are IP cameras you can setup and use (they record locally to a microSD card) without having internet, but most require at least a cheap router to broadcast a wireless network (wifi but no internet) so you can connect to them from a computer and setup via their admin web page.
You might benefit from a LTE router/modem which uses a cell provider's data plan to provide you wifi. Not sure of your location but AT&T and Verizon both offer that... pricewise though YMMV.
As far as the car, best advice I can give is the usual: Don't leave items of value visible in it, always lock the car (you'd be surprised how many people leave their cars unlocked), park the car where you can see it, or in a well lit area of the parking lot.
Does it have a dead bolt? They make dead bolt covers that are so easy to install.
[Deadbolt cover](Safety 1st Secure Mount Deadbolt Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBF7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_leGSCbC9ZV3BF)
It was very simple to install. I think it involved loosening the screws and sliding the cover over it, then tightening it back up.
My three year old still can't even get it to turn even a little.
I also have a sticky door alarm higher.
It'll go off when one piece that's on the door is separated from the piece stuck on the door jam.
It's crazy loud. So if he manages to get it open and I'm in the other room, I'll know.
[here's the alarm](GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bmGSCbRZSQ61J)
A shattered window wouldn't wake you? I'm not sure any audible device would suffice short of an air horn. However, vibration sensors are no good since you'll be walking around setting them off. You need the kind that are based on magnets. It's made of two pieces. One is fixed to the part that doesn't move, the other to the part that does. When the two separate, the alarm is triggered. I feel that would be a better option.
You could just replace can switch one for one.
Or use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OUWABU?pc_redir=T1
Though I think that'd require each light to be a smart bulb/outlet.
It depends on your platform. I use SmartThings, you can set something up that when one light is turned on, others do as well. Kind of like grouping them as a scene selection. With other HA systems, you can set up where a quick double tap to one switch turns on others.
If you're on straight z wave, then you could use the GE zwave keypad and group scenes. It's a nice item, doesn't need a gang box, just mount to the wall. Available on Amazon.
My friend growing up had a little brother who was a complete hellion. He was constantly trying to sneak away and do crazy/dangerous stuff (probably for attention or something).
They installed those little magnetic sensors on all the doors. Door opens, sensor trips and loud alarm/beep goes off. Best installed up high where the kid can't reach them. Could be an issue if you live in an apartment though, depending on how tolerant your neighbors are about noise.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NXFKLK
My daughter got out of bed before me (we were sleeping together) when she was three, went outside and next to our busy road. Luckily a woman stopped and brought her to our door. Unfortunately no one was awake so she had to call the police.
I woke up to not knowing where she was. The police didn't mention if she was okay until they questioned me and checked out the house.
It was terrifying.
We put sound bell/alarm type devices ( these ) on all the doors and also locks ( these ) for at night. I also talked to her about it. This worked for us and she eventually never did it again.
I have those door handle ones and my 18 month old pets them off. Once they figure it out, (for him it was about3 weeks) there is not stopping them.
As an ex CPS caseworker, I'm a huge fan of door and window alarms. We had many a family install those that way they were alerted to the door being opened.
http://www.amazon.com/Window-Entry-Alarm-Magnetic-Sensor/dp/B008NXFKLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418332072&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=door+alarm+for+kids
Not sure how much this means but I've always installed these things.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G-jkDbCY0Z6FD
If someone open your door, window they will ring. They are pretty loud maybe not enough for your neighbors but could also kinda of give you a bit more peace in your mind. Sorry it happened to you.
maybe this
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45174/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=window+sensors&amp;qid=1568542160&amp;sr=8-3
WD-40 your door and get a [cheap alarm](GE 45174 Magnetic Indoor Window Alarms, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZF-hzbWE6H6GS) that rings when the door is opened.
Creak gets fixed and you can hear an intruder.
Am a Hikvsion fan, personally.
If you google "ring doorbell fps" you'll find majority of different smart home blogs talking about 30fps. And then you have this press release mentioning it and the Ring's Amazon listing.
Though it looks like it's just the original Ring is 30fps, whereas the Ring 2 and Pro are 15. My bad.
I'm just wondering then why people with the original Ring on this thread are still reporting 15fps? So confusing. Sorry, just trying to figure things out before buying one.
TL;DR Wink Hub 2, Cheap Z-Wave Lock, Ring. Alexa with screen for added functionality. Check links below.
I recommend a wink hub 2 and a cheap $150 z-wave doorlock with a ring. As a bonus, if you don't already have one you can get a Alexa show (what I have) or spot to view the video feed from the doorbell and lock the door (unlocking functionality is not available so people cant tell through the door). Links Below.
Here's stuff I use:
Lock:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F1F1PY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PMIheKkvD1wxT
Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4lTYAbNCH8TAT
Doorbell:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VkTYAb2ZMKX7Y
Echo Spot:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SQYXTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BoTYAbF56H4XE
Echo Show:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J24C0TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpTYAbRS910HE
The Ring Doorbell is a video system that lets you see and communicate with people at your door (even if you're not home). It is activated by motion censor, so you would know even if he comes around while you are out of the house.
P.S. Has anything new happened in the weeks since you originally posted this?
Plot twist, she wants [this ring](Ring Wi-Fi Enabled Video Doorbell in Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A2iMAb48Y3598)
Here and here.
Use it wired or wirelessly. I use it wirelessly and it just needs charged every 3-5 months depending on the outside temp.
Well, you wouldn't mount a easily-stolen Nest cam lower down, but you can do an anti-vandal dome camera just above your door, or even something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2
There are a few versions of the those doorbell cameras, I'm not sure if all the bugs have been worked out yet. The key is placement above all else. If you can't see their face it's like adding insult to injury.
A few suggestions:
Arlo wireless security systems have motion sensing on the cameras which can be set up to send alerts to phones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_KilByb6E2Z3J8
Once it notifies us of motion, we've set it up to record for 30secs to 2 minutes to the cloud. You can also watch the camera live as well.
I'd also like to recommend the new "smart" camera systems that are getting very popular. Many of them have the same constant monitoring, cloud backups and they can even notify you on your phone if they detect motion in a certain area.
Many of these have night vision and audio pickup. Some, like the doorbell even have two-way communication so you can talk to someone at your door. you'd get notified on your phone when someone rings the doorbell.
https://www.amazon.com/Nest-Cam-Outdoor-Security-Camera/dp/B01I3I9L8M/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493922214&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=nest+camera
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-88LP000CH000-Video-Doorbell-Pro/dp/B01DM6BDA4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493922243&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ring+home+doorbell+pro
https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-System-Wire-Free-Cameras/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493922286&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=arlo+camera
http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453497294&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=wifi+camera+outdoor
I think a combo of a safe and one of these is the best.
http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1448995782&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=arlo
There was a AMA a while back from a former burglar. He said that if he sees a camera he wouldnt hit that house. Or any house on that block for that matter.
You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.
You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.
Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.
Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.
You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.
Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.
Have fun.
HA is definitely more user friendly. Its discovery process does an excellent job of finding most entities. I find openahb to be more stable with the z-wave protocol, but it's a more established product. HA has a lot of momentum. They are prolific with updates and feature additions.
I'm currently running Openhab because I have z-wave stability issues in HA, but I have a feeling I will switch to HA eventually once it irons it out. The beauty of raspberry pi is that cheap SD cards can act as swappable hard drives. So I actually have one card with Openhab and another with HA. I simply shutdown, swap cards and I can run the other system. 8GB is plenty if home automation is all you're running on an image.. those can be bough for $6 nowadays.
One thing you'll want to do is research protocols before setting it up. In addition to HA or Openhab, many protocols require additonal hubs or controllers to talk the language to those devices. So for Z-wave, you would need something like this. HA and Openhab are very flexible and can talk many protocols, but just keep in mind that talking multiple protocols may or may not be exactly free (depending on the protocol/technology).
Alrighty that looks like what I was thinking. I was checking on this stick from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=z-wave+usb&qid=1565731713&s=gateway&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
I have read reports of some users stating that they had an easy time allowing the USB pass through from the ESXi host running the HA VM.
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Thanks for the additional info about the flashing part, something I will need to consider as I would prefer to make my devices linear rather than buying all different types of Smart products.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eakcAb1VXWZA2
This is the one I have:
https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
This guy had a lot of info on HA on his channel but this video specifically covers that USB stick and getting it all setup: https://youtu.be/ajklDCaOGwY
I've not used any Zigbee stuff so I can't help there.
The top amazon review for the Z-stick has alternate instructions that can be leveraged as well. I've pasted them here for your convenience but if you need further assistance, go to Amazon.
note: I am not the author, just spreading the word.
Folks, here is how you disable the annoying flashing disco LED light:
01 08 00 F2 51 01 00 05 01 51
Step 9: Disco is over!
http://www.openzwave.net/device-database
Just because something isn't there doesn't mean it won't work, it just might not support all features.
As far as a controller goes, I would suggest: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
I'm using the CT100 and I'm very happy with it so far. You need a Z-Stick though (since that's how all the Z-Wave devices communicate) and some sort of software/controller like Home Assistant, OpenHAB, or a closed-source alternative.
I’ll be nice. Detects leaks in your house. Put them under the sink. Any place a leak may occur.
Send yourself a notification so you know a leak is occurring.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E
https://www.amazon.com/aeotec-water-sensor/s?ie=UTF8&amp;page=1&amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aaeotec%20water%20sensor
> So, what are my options if I don't want this internet connected / PC controllable?
That seems like an odd question. What exactly do you mean you don't want it internet connected? Do you just mean you don't want to have to rely on the cloud services. In other words do you just want to be sure your HA system will continue working if your internet goes out?
If thats the case i would go with a
raspberry pi
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483394601&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi
A zwave usb stick
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483394649&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=zwave+usb+stick
And then from there just start grabbing some zwave switches/outlets
You can choose whether the system is accessible outside of the network while still having access to the system through your phone/tablet/pc/switches/remotes from in the home.
For zwave just buy this and plug it into a raspberry pi (or any other computer u always have turned on) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1NWxCbN4SCB72
I live in the US, its available on amazon:
Newest version
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
I have this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/
Ecobee3 is a Thermostat. You can add room sensors that link up to it to help balance the temperature around the house. Is that not what you want?
Here is the stick: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
Z-Wave is a popular protocol for HA devices that creates a mesh network so that even if the furthest device can't directly see the "hub," if it can see a device that can see the hub, messages will hop from one to the other. There are a bunch of inexpensive Z-wave devices from garage door openers, switches, plugs, outlets, etc... that all work with Home Assistant. You will however need a "hub" to control them. Fortunately you can get a usb stick to act as the hub and just plug it into the computer you are running HomeAssistant on and you don't need another big device, just the usb stick. (Though you can use something like smarthings to act as the hub interface but I don't really recommend it)
The two most popular usb sticks are the Aeotec and the HUSBZB-1 (note: the HUSBZB-1 also has Zigbee, another popular protocol)
If you'd rather stay with wifi, I have seen some people take a sonoff that they've put inside a waterproof box. Though I have not tried it myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E
Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259191&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aotech+zstick&amp;dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259245&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zigbee+dongle&amp;dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259343&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ge+wave&amp;dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Well no you need a hardware interface for the protocol(s) you're trying to use, like a Zwave USB adapter or whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E
The wiki goes over the different home automation protocols. The biggest reason these protocols exist is because a lot of HA devices need to run on batteries, so they need to be extremely power efficient, and bandwidth isn't a big concern for HA. There are some newer devices such as LIFX that just connect to your WiFi, and don't require a special protocol or gateway.
To link all of your devices together, you want a hub that can communicate with all these different protocols. Right now Home Assistant is quickly becoming the dominant player in open source home automation hubs. If you run Home Assistant on your desktop you can immediately connect to any networked devices, such as Chromecasts, and can monitor whether your phone is connected to the network to trigger automations. If you want to talk to one of the HA protocols, you need to buy an adapter, such as the Z-Stick that allows your PC to communicate on the ZWave frequency.
> If you do go with a Aeon Labs USB stick I'd suggest getting the Gen 5 version for future compatibility
Sure thing!
So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.
So, things you'll need:
A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/
A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/
A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/
Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/
A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/
An old micro USB phone charger
A MicroSD card reader
So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/ and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.
After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.
From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.
Hope that helps :-)
Also note you’ll need a z-stick
Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5, Z-Wave Plus USB to create gateway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fp53Db3CZX23A
Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E
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Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.
If you know anything about Linux it should be easy to pick up. If you don't know anything about Linux and you want to learn by doing, this is a great way to start. I'm somewhere it the middle, and it taught me a few things without being totally annoying.
Grab a Raspberry Pi and follow the instructions in the Getting Started section of http://home-assistant.io. Since it runs a database on your Pi, get a fast SD card; that will be the bottleneck in speed for the UI.
The Z-Wave contoller I'm using is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
It holds all of the information regarding your Z-Wave devices direcly onboard the dongle.
The Z-Wave controller plus the Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant are the equivalent of the "hub" you're talking about. You can expand it to do pretty much whatever you want, too.
Yes, it's more complicated to get set up, but you can do a lot more than the name brand hubs once you're comfortable with it.
Their forums are a good source of help, but if you take the dive and get stuck feel free to PM me.
Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 (ZW090)
It was pretty simple to set up and now that Z-Wave secure is working for OZW, I've even got my locks, which was the main thing i've got automated.
Welcome in the automation world ! You will need a USB key to be able to communicate with your Z-WAVE devices
something like this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
@Gottria
I was really trying to make the RP3 version work, but it had two limitations:
I bought the HS3 software only (not pro, just regular). My understanding is HS does a 50% off deal 2x a year, so I'll wait for that and upgrade to pro. (TIP: put it in your cart, and leave the site for a day or so. I got an email with a 25% off coupon for it)
I bought my own mini windows box (this thing is tiny, and it's actually really cool) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1LA8MB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this Z-Wave USB device (in my reading it had better reviews than the HS one, and it works great) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So far this stack has worked out great for me
I've already got hass.io set up on a raspberry pi so i could unlock my door with 3rd party apis.
just bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 to control my z-wave devices... this downtime is too frequent for me.
The unlock code i give to my airbnb guests didn't work when i had one arrive last night... fortunately, i was home to let him in but the amount of worrying i do that wink will go down when i'm out of town and have a guest arriving is too high.
I just started using a Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 with my pi 2B. Seems pretty solid so far, but it's only been about a week.
You may be able to access a Zwave USB stick using the serial library for the Arduino. I bought one but haven't had much time to play with it:
Aeon Labs ZW090 Z Stick
I had mine connected to a NUC and got it to pair with one of my motion sensors, but got distracted by other projects before I went any further with it.
This would be your best bet, but you do have to know/learn how to get the code up and running on both the Arduino and SmartThings IDE, so maybe a bit intense for some. Plus they stopped selling it a while ago... I'm still mad I didn't buy more.
I've made a few customish sensors (i.e.: doorbell) with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU - they're relatively cheap, and it's super easy to add external sensors to them. You're stuck with the motion sensors, but I can always find a use for those. But on the contact sensors, just snip the hall sensor out to disable the contact feature, then connect your wired sensor to the provided terminals. Thats it, but If you're feeling ambitious you can copy the device handler in the IDE and edit it to represent what you're actually sensing. May find this handy if you're combining sensors or something similar (i.e. need to know all 1st floor windows are closed, not listed individually).
All that said, I would just stick to straight wireless wherever possible, because the mesh network is strengthened with each device you have scattered around the house. But if you can find an Arduino shield, that would be wayyy cheaper since you could use one device to integrate all pre-wired sensors.
I got one of the go control kits that comes with a motion and 2 doors for $42 off amazon and they work.
https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479839716&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=go+control
I had already been leaning towards creating an alarm solution through Wink and getting rid of my alarm company, but this has pushed me over the edge. Ordered the GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit and have already set up most of the shortcuts/robots/IFTTT stuff you mentioned. I'm only planning to start with Wink notifications for the alarm for now, but might set up phone calls for the smoke detector. Need to determine if I can get the Z-Wave sensors already installed to work with my system. Might save me some time/money.
Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor
Samsung smartthings motion sensor. This exact model: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-IRM-US-2-Motion-Sensor/dp/B01IE35PCC
This is a pretty amazing deal when compared to amazon prices.
SmartThings Hub, $99
SmartThings Motion Sensor, $32
2x Sylvania Dimmable Bulbs, $16 each
Total value is $163. Some things to consider is that the bulbs are dimmable only. They are not color temperature adjustable. The motion sensor is also finicky, from what I've read
What about this?
Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IE35PCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hZXrzbEP2E1HB
Probably needs a hub though to work
Back Porch option (2.) Install a motion sensor porch light as a deterrent. If you're crafty you can wire it so a light just inside the door turns on at the same time (makes it seem like someone is there. If you can add a 5 second delay to the indoor light you're golden).
Buy one of those locks with anti-theft guarantees. I know Kryptonite has one (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Documents/TERMS_AND_CONDITIONS.pdf). Not sure how legit it is, but it may give you some peace of mind.
I'm sure you could rig one of these up: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Home-Alarm-50246/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=cts_ap_1_fbt
Loud as hell, would likely give anyone trying to mess with your bike a startle.
I have a couple of these on a sliding glass door. They work pretty well and they are sensitive enough to trigger when you're opening the door. Problem is if my cat messes with them they can go off.
As for door opening something like this or this
Now granted I'm no guru when it comes to home defense. I live in a nice area where people can leave their bikes out over night unlocked and expect them to be there in the morning.
I have insurance so if I do get robbed I'm covered. I have valuables secured as best as I can since i'm renting. My concern is when my gf or I are home and someone tries to get in or something I want to be awake.
I recommend this...
http://www.amazon.com/50246-Smart-Home-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1
This is great.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414077427&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=door+stop+alarm
What you want is a door stop alarm, they're good for travel too.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M
I don't remember the brand name but it was similar to this but less money from Dollarama.
Congratulations! I recently moved into my own place and have found a few things that helped.
Depending on your budget, I'd recommend the Canary ($200). It's a wireless camera that instantly alerts you if there's any activity in your house while you're away. You can also check in via wireless video at any time.
I also use a door alarm for extra peace of mind while I'm home.
I now always carry readily-accessible pepper spray and a small flashlight when I'm going out or coming home in the dark.
A final random tip: I keep my energy bill low by using a space heater in the room I'm hanging out in.
Hope that helps! Best of luck with the new place. :)
Note: If this seems scrambled, it's because I'm just jotting things down as I think of them.
First off, you need to worry about your own well-being. Remember that she has conditioned you to be afraid of her - without that conditioning, she is just an angry and vindictive woman... And that's nothing to be afraid of in and of itself. Before I go any further, here is something that might help you sleep at night. Just put one at each of your exterior doors. They're 120db, (which, for reference, is louder than many car horns,) so they'll wake up everything, including you and probably even your neighbors. I've heard that they might not work as well on hardwood floors (because they'll simply slide instead of jamming under the door,) but putting something heavy (like a book) behind it helps to mitigate this. If you need something more immediate, (instead of waiting on shipping,) you may try checking Walmart/Target, or your local home improvement stores.
It's a very good thing that your brother is there to back you up (and to let you know that shit hit the fan.) It'll be an early warning system to let you know when to expect her to be angry. After all, she likely won't react very well to it, and will come after anyone who she thinks might have ratted her out. Remember that she won't know for sure, since the report will be anonymous. They may not even tell her why she's being investigated. If that's the case, you can even say that you have no idea what she's talking about, and that maybe one of the neighbors said something. Here are some tips to reduce worrying when shit hits the fan though...
If she shows up at your house, don't open the door. Tell her to go away through the door. Just keep your door locked, and yell it through. We all know that she won't leave though - N's don't take kindly to boundaries, and a locked door in their face is about as solid a boundary as you can set. They love to push at those boundaries, to see just how much they can realistically get away with. Don't let her try and coerce you into opening it - She is an abuser who has you in her cross-hairs. You don't owe her anything. This is why you move on to step two: Calling the cops.
Just call the cops, and let them handle things. It's really that simple. She can scream at your door all she wants, but it won't do any good, (and will actually serve to strengthen your case against her.) If they ask, you do want to make a report. If they don't ask, tell them to make one - A police report while she is being investigated by the foster care group? That's an open-and-shut case. If she shows up again, just lather, rinse, and repeat. This sends a clear message that you won't let her push your boundaries.
Here's what to expect from the cops: The first time, they'll simply tell her to stop making a disturbance, and to go away. If she flat out refuses, they may even arrest her for something like trespassing or harassment, just to get her out of your hair. They'll tell you to give them a call if she shows back up, and will do a report about it. Get a copy of the report. The second time they'll do the same, but they'll be a little more forceful. This is why you get a report every time it happens - After the second or third time, you can file for a restraining order against her, using the reports as evidence to back up your case. This means that if she shows up again after being served the order, (which is likely... Again, N's loathe boundaries, and will see exactly how far you let them cross yours,) they actually have a crime to arrest her for.
Next up: Phone calls. You mentioned that you had some blocked callers. If she does get through and call you, simply tell her to stop, and that any further calls will be considered harassment. Don't let her talk over you or interrupt you. Simply say that any further calls will be considered harassment, and that she needs to stop immediately. Then write down the time and date of the call, with a brief summary. It doesn't need to be super detailed, as long as it sums things up accurately. Be systematic - Every time she calls, tell her to stop harassing you, and write it down. Again: Be methodical. After three or four calls, you can get (at best) a restraining order, or (if they won't let you get the restraining order) a no-contact order - This is why you were methodical in your notes. Courts will happily take your notes as evidence as long as you were consistent in how you dealt with it. If all this sounds like too much, you can always just get another SIM and use that - Just remember to be selective in who you give your number to, otherwise she may end up getting a hold of it again.
Half the price and insanely loud!
Yay! Alarm!
Time to get one of these - http://amzn.com/B0000YNR4M
If your on a budget maybe you could put up some 'fake' stuff:
For $12 here are some signs.
For $25 bucks here is a window and door alarm.
Criminals are pretty dumb and between the signs and an alarm going off it might be enough to scare them away. They basically want easy targets. Chances are good they are drug addicts, so probably paranoid. If they are kids this might be enough to scare them away.
Lastly, a motion sensor light might fool them into thinking someone is home.
Living alone you should have some weapon to protect you be it mace/tazer/baseball bat and some of those cheap alarm systems.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-51107-Smart-Wireless-System/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347743114&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=alarm+system
These things are stupid easy to place and will scare the shit out of anyone who is breaking in AND will alarm other people! Very simple and cheap system that can be controlled by yourself! Oh and get a big guy friend until you feel safe, I'd totally crash at a friends house if she didn't feel safe!
Why not use something like this?
Edit: link fail
One thing that is worth considering for your husband is to carry a firearm while in the house. A comfortable OWB holster and a good belt places the loaded firearm in his direct control at all times. The other guns can then go into the safe.
If he's not inclined to do that for comfort reasons or just not wanting to carry in the house, there are numerous "quick access" vaults that can keep curious hands away without necessarily adding too much time for accessing the weapon. I would go for a mechanically actuated vault vs those electronic ones with buttons or fingerprint scanners. You don't want to be fumbling with electronics and sweaty fingers when time is of the essence.
Depending on the level of "readiness" that your husband wants to achieve, storing the firearms with loaded magazines but closed bolts/slides on empty chambers can add another layer of security/complexity towards discharging the firearms. Some may view it as a hindrance or something to forget in times of stress or injury, but it's worth considering all the options.
It's worth discussing with your husband the level of readiness he desires along with the element of risk that you both are willing to accept. Currently, it's pretty much grab-and-go from the closet. Does he move a gun closer to the bed when sleeping? If someone's trying to break in when everyone's around, is it a "honey go grab the gun" sort of situation? You already mentioned having to lock the bedroom door when family/friends are around. How does he feel about security when no one is home? While you live in a low crime neighborhood, most crimes happen during the day when most people are away. Also consider investing in upgraded/reinforced door frames, deadbolts, sliding doors, and windows. Those are elements that can buy you precious time in the hypothetical home intrusion to access the guns however they are stored.
Most importantly, make sure that you and your husband have a plan for such incidents. Make sure you know how to communicate with each other and have a plan for who goes where, does what, calls 911, etc. Might be worth stocking some basic first aid such as tourniquets and gauze as well.
Here are some mechanically actuated safes that seem to be relatively well-received:
Pistol shot-lock
AR-15 shot-lock
Here's an RFID vault
RFID Pistol
EDIT:
Here's some more mechanical vaults
Fort Knox
V-Line
If you're putting it in a drawer, this V-Line Top Draw might be your best bet. Here's the smaller version as well. You'd just have to decide if it would fit. It's also cheaper at about $150 for either one. No need to break the bank if it's only going to be in there at night. Most people would say even that is overkill. I just keep my CC in my nightstand drawer when I sleep and either take it with me during the day or lock it up in the security cabinet with the rest of the guns. I, on the other hand, don't have any kids and my wife wouldn't dare touch it without asking me first.
Keep in mind, of course, if you leave your gun inside of it, it would be quite easy for a thief to steal unless it is secured to something that is prohibitively large or heavy to move or steal. I am guessing since you have an AmSec safe, you already know that, but I figured I would add that just in case.
> A gun locked in a box is not a useful tool for protecting yourself
This is not true at all. With a lock box a gun can be stored safely and also available to use in seconds.
I would suggest a pistol safe with a simplex lock. i keep mine on my nightstand and I can get into it in about two to three seconds. Mine is something like what is linked (http://www.amazon.com/V-Line-Draw-Security-Case-Black/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422103489&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=simplex+lock+pistol+safe)
I looked into it when I was shopping for a simple safe for my handguns. Based on my research, I decided I didn't want a system that could fail due to lack of batteries or the inability to get it to read my fingerprint in a stressful situation.
So, I decided to go with something with a mechanical lock, but that still could be accessed fairly quickly. I ended up with this safe from V-Line. It's really fast to get into, and I've been really pleased with it.
V-Line makes a great safe too!
http://www.amazon.com/V-Line-Draw-Security-Case-Black/dp/B000T24OFG
Try a portable deadbolt, found here or here or here
3rd one is probably what you're looking for
Alternatively, you could get a wireless door alarm that has a keypad. Found here or here
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The best part about getting a cheap alarm system is that if he opens the door it will fill the house with a deafening screeching noise. And when you get home, the topic will likely come up "oh we needed to get into your room for [insert innocent excuse here]" So if you choose this option you need to have a conversation beforehand establishing firm boundaries that under no circumstances can anyone go into your room
Jesus christ. Can you talk to your landlord???
Also, there are some cheap thingies you can get that beep when someone enters. It won't call a company or anything but it might scare them off if it happens again. Like this.
I am sorry you are going through this. I know it is very hard.
Just a piece of advice from someone who has worked with dementia patients, get some loud door alarms for all of the doors. As it progresses, you will want to keep him safe and keep him from accidentally wandering off in the middle of the night. If you are in the states, you can get some cheap ones from Home Depot or Amazon.
Also, let any neighbors know as well. This way they can keep an eye out in case he accidentally travels.
So I can make silly on TC and you guys can see how awesomely lazy I am. :P
mischief managed
Im in love...with you!! just kidding don't worry.
I want have a web cam
This is the camera used in the link.
Oh wow, looks like Amazon has one for under $6!
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-Webcam-Camera-Meeting-compatible/dp/B0015TJNEY/
This webcam would be pretty cool.
Prime Time
When my autistic daughter was younger, we got these. It would be hard to find a solution much cheaper. It worked well enough - they're loud enough to be heard from a few rooms away. It's not "smart" but it's very cheap and reasonably effective.
Though if you already have everything set up through zwave and wifi, maybe you just need to add a z-wave siren to the mix? Though none of the ones on Amazon seem to have good reviews.
Yes, they do need wifi. If all you want a loud sound when it opens you can just get this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=door+alarm&qid=1566172179&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Seconding the renters insurance!! Depending on the company/coverage it can cover things stolen from your car while on the property (I only know this cause my car got broken into last night lol) you can insure any of your more expensive items for a pretty reasonable price.
Also I got some door alarms like this for my front and back doors.
I'm not too surprised she wouldn't think anything of someone taking the car. The car comes and goes, that isn't unusual, and she may have forgotten that it is your car, not the neighbors (not saying the neighbors were the ones that took it, but she may have thought the car was theirs, so it wasn't something she had to worry about). I'm more worried that she might wander out on her own, let someone in the house, or leave the door unlocked. So my suggestions are going to be aimed at keeping her safe.
Door chimes, so she can't sneak out.
Consider the locks:
This does not mean you should change the locks in your loved one’s home so that they can never leave, but instead, have them moved to a higher or lower position on the door. If your loved one has to bend down or stand on their tippy-toes to reach the door lock, they will have a harder time opening doors. This small amount of extra effort gives them enough time to stop and think about why they’re trying to open the door, often giving themselves time to realize they have no reason to leave, and instead deciding to stay inside the safety of the house. Simply put, keeping locks out of eyesight leads to less chance they will wander outside of their home.
Motion sensor lights, both inside and out. Inside, they keep her from getting hurt because she forgot to turn on the lights. Outside, the regular reason for having motion lights.
And become more than passing acquaintances with you neighbors. If they are people you can trust (won't take advantage of her condition), let them know the basics of her condition and invite them over for coffee so she can get to know them. If they know what is going on, they are more likely to check in if they see something unusual, and if she has met them a few times, even if she can't remember who they are, she will be more likely to respond positively if they catch her wandering. Also, neighbors can be great security systems.
While not as exciting, OP could install one of these in her cabinet in case MIL is every back in her house (or really just because they're cheap and should deter anyone).
I ment something like this but with the alarm in my home rather than right next to the sensor
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Window-Alarm/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417561181&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=window+sensor
That was one of my personal fears. In addition to the toddler proof door knob cover we used some of the cheap stick on door alert sensors that beep loudly when the door is opened.
I'm really in need of some window alarms because I recently moved into a new apartment in a bad part of my town. I'm constantly worried about break-ins because two of my windows could easily be broken into.
My cat doesn't have a breakaway collar, and I'd really like for her to have one, just in case she gets hung up on something when I'm not around, she can break free.
Knives are not a good self defense tool. I train in combat sports and we train in knife fighting and all i can say is EVERYONE in a knife fight gets seriously hurt.
Pepper spray is my self defense tool of choice. Can be used without being in arms reach of an assailant. If u want something by the bed, u can get a roll of industrial velcro from the hardware store and pepper spray and attach a pepper spray to the side of ur bed frame or bed side table.
U can get vibration alarms for the windows to sound the alarm if a window is broken. And/or window alarms meant for opened windows. A good heavy duty lock for the door.
SABRE Window Glass Alarm - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M30SN2W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_65kRub18SXRDN
GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm (2 pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_56kRub1PY1582
SABRE RED Pepper Spray - Police Strength - Compact, Pink Case with Quick Release Key Ring (Max Protection - 25 shots, up to 5X's more) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CZ9MRY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_27kRub1KJRNWX
VIPERTEK VTS-989 - 19,000,000 V Heavy Duty Stun Gun - Rechargeable with LED Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPE6UN2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Q9kRub133N6RA
Something like this maybe? Or this?
I had the same problem. I got these. My little brother hates the sound and learned fast!
GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g1lRCbHGF2FCB
these are cheap and have a chime function, GE Personal Security Door Alarm i THINK you can hook them up to a central door alarm, but I'm not 100% sure.
GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm (2 pack)
Yes. There are a few different styles and options.
door alarms
These are the ones we got.
two of these: http://www.amazon.com/Wansview-Wireless-Surveillance-Microphone-monitoring/dp/B003JLPWAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1314066775&amp;sr=8-1
Hey OP, my advice is grab your self a couple of these: http://www.amazon.com/Wansview-Wireless-Surveillance-Microphone-monitoring/dp/B003JLPWAK All you'll need is a way to power them and a computer to record with.
They're home security on a budget. Just be aware that you can't point them directly at your neighbours property. You can however cover any part of land that's on your property or immediately in front of it safely. Put up a sign that states CCTV is in use on your property, perhaps even a sign that trespassers will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law (Which you are entitled to do). As for your dogs, keep an eye on them. Make sure that they don't eat strange food, especially anything around your property. Any areas your dogs go outside the property try to keep covered by cameras.
Once you have the cameras make it obvious you own a firearm. Don't do it threateningly, do so in a way to show that you will protect your self if you need to, the cameras act as an insurance policy against any false accusations they may make.
Show them that you mean business and that if they threaten or harass you in any way, including trespassing on your property you will absolutely protect your self, make it categorically clear that any threatening behaviour toward you will be reported to the police along with supporting evidence. Essentially make it crystal clear that you can make their life far worse than they can make yours, even if it's a bluff.
They are not that much. We got this one and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JLPWAK
They are TCP/IP, and provide both 10/100BaseT wired ports and Wifi.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JLPWAK/ref=oh_o05_s00_i00_details
You want one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JLPWAK/ref=oh_o06_s00_i00_details
It's awesome. You hook it up to your wireless network, then tell it when to monitor (either all the time or specific dates & times). When it detects motion, it can:
email you pictures every few seconds
upload pictures and video to a ftp
It also switch to infrared mode so it can be used as night vision.
Yes they are, and that's the problem. The way this switch/receptacle is wired up, I can't separate the outlets and have only one be controlled by the switch unless I want to replace the wiring between the switch and outlet. That's what I was trying to avoid.
What about something like this conroller with the receptacle I posted in the OP?
Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.
If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.
Any smart switch or dimmer functions by replacing the existing switch with a relay or dimmer, and that relay is controller by the buttons on the front of the switch. When you say multi-zone, are you talking about multi-way? As in, 3-way, 4-way, etc? In that case, the idea is not to control multiple loads from one location, but rather, one load from multiple locations. If you want to control multiple loads from one location, you could pick up some aeotech micro switches for each fixture, and associate those to a scene controller, like this one.
That's an interesting approach. But 2x $32 micro switch/dimmer, plus $40 scene controller is $100 minimum. Even if I was happy with my old fan, that set up won't give me control over the speed of the fan remotely. I thought that dimmers should not be used to control fan speed.
Unless I am looking at the wrong parts:
Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SZ6CzbJ281ENH
GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P06CzbWC2KG9Z
For half that price I can get this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100
That controller gives me speed and light control (with dimming) at a remote on the wall and in Wink. I would guess it's just zwave, so SmartThings might work with it too.
I would go for the $50 controller if I liked my existing fans, but part of the drive is that I don't like the style, and one fan is dying. I like that $200 fan that includes the automation better than any $150 fan I have seen, so it's a net savings too.
I also have a situation that may not work with those micro components anyway. My fan was wired power to fixture, then switches. So I don't have any real neutrals at my switches for the scene controller. Like this:
http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/images/wiring-a-4-way-switch.jpg
Put in zwave outlets and get an in-wall scene controller. You can set up "macros" (aka scenes) that control the outlets via the zwave radio.
$30ish per outlet, $40+ for a controller. The one below is mediocre but tie it to ge outlets and it should so fine.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504920314&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Zwave+scene+controller
These?
In the Q&A somebody said it was fully compatible for ST, but not sure I believe them, lol
I think instead of wireless switches, you could use a motion or other sensor..?
You can get 4-zone wall controllers.
Like this. GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_MopxwbJ3M98R3
Then get one of these for each group you want to control
Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LppxwbZ9DQ7SX
That should do it. You might need an electrician to safely install the relays for each group.
I had that exact same issue in our house and I used it as a
n excusereason to start some home automation. I installed zwave switches and then some keypad controllers to be able to control the lights from more normal locations.I also had secondary switches (second switch on a three-way setup) that annoyingly controlled things that weren't the closest, so I was able to use auxiliary switches and set them to control what I wanted them to.
But all that said, Lutron makes great stuff and based on the comments from /u/jehovahs_waitress if they have an option that makes sense, it would be much easier to do that than to start the path of home automation.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU
Folks seem to rave about the HomeSeerer switches as they support multi-taps for scenes.
Can you explain that more detailed? I was looking at getting either this ge one or this enerwave
What else would I need to connect them to wink?
Alternative option, would they work right away with smartthings?
Check for whatever legal aid services are in your area.
Also look into getting some of these. I've bought sets of them for a few bucks and they are LOUD.
https://www.amazon.com/Window-Entry-Alarm-Magnetic-Sensor/dp/B008NXFKLK
Comcast fucking around update 2.0ish.
First off I made a typo its 15 hours of calls with Comcast.
As for you keep filing FCC complaints I'm going that route tonight. My internet speed was fuckered but is fixed now but I didn't mention that I don't have certain channels that I was paying for on my Tivo. Comcast said 100% Tivo's fault after about 15 hours of fucking around which involved a lot of resetting shit. I Called Tivo and they said nope it's comcast but lets 3 way call to solve this issue. Holy fucking shit a company that knows customer service. Hold for 20+ minutes and 2 minutes into comcast picking up and, boom, literally the problem was solved.
Legally again ianal but contracts are meant to be beneficial to both parties. You are paying for a service that is supposed to, at a bare minimum, notify anyone that an entrance has been opened. You can buy window and door alarms from amazon for about $5 a peice that will do more than your $30ish per month.
unfortunately the US world is set up to protect corporations. Honestly I'd break contract and immediately start the small claims court process to protect your credit.
Hi,
If you want a primer on current security camera technology, my guide to IP cameras may help. As you will find though, I am not one who recommends storing everything on the cloud.
For a doorbell, if you want a ready to use device, consider the Ring Doorbell. If you are happy to go the DIY home automation route, you can use a standard bell linked to a home automation gateway device which can then pretty much trigger any event/action you need. Eg. Play a sound through your home theatre or SONOS, take a picture from the security camera and email to your phone, send a push notification to your phone, automatically play a recorded greeting etc. An example of a gateway device is the Vera Plus.
In fact this is going to be my next project!
Daniel
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Nickel/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537948935&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ring+doorbell
Would you recommend this one ?
Y'all need this in your life: ERA Ring Smartphone Wi-Fi Enabled Video Door Bell With Motion Alert https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3avxwb88K3H72
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3avxwb88K3H72
Would have been a deal at 25% off perhaps. The video quality just doesn't seem to be quite on par with the Ring video doorbell. Is the Skybell not able to record yet?
At the same price I feel much happier with the Ring: http://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2
as the topic, they go out of their way to remove all bad comments and then flood any complaints with glowing responses like yours (funny that) The units are badly designed and badly coded and their support is just copy paste responses as they Know they cannot fix the issues that people have.
Edit: as you mention Amazon quick look and oh https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-88RG000FC01-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Satin-Chrome/product-reviews/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?filterByStar=critical&amp;pageNumber=1
So I guess what are you saying is all these people are idiots? and even if that's the case it's a bloody doorbell it should by design be idiot proof you don't need a PhD to install a doorbell.
Right now since you are just looking for a camera. i would do either Guardzill or Canary guardzilla is a good not great camera security system for someone on a budge canary is a little better but costs 160 instead of 100 that guardzilla costs
Yes. I've been using Canary for a few months and I'm pretty pleased with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Canary-All-One-Security-Device/dp/B00NW31YSE
Off-topic: get a Canary. The last rolling 24 hours are free for life, no subscription plan needed. Just buy the unit!
Canary All-in-One Home Security Device - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NW31YSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LnAzzb07ZYCRS
https://canary.is/
https://youtu.be/s4uxSxjeYJg
No, seven 1080p home security cameras. Bahamut is all about personal protection.
Do you have a Canary?
I always start with Amazon's one-star reviews. The Canary's are dismal.
Do you have a different experience?
> First of all, there are no wireless security cameras that are also battery powered.
https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6
This is about as close as you're going to get. I doubt a product exists that meets all of the requirements plus being "cheap".
A different angle would be use a camera like this inside the house. It has a one microphone, so you can talk, yell, or threaten the intruders. Making it clearly visible might also help discourage them breaking-in in the first place (but who knows).
Or go with both, and have the cheap one placed in plain site to distract them from the other camera.
Found these, what do you guys think? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7EVST6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-VMS3130-Outdoor-Security-Wire-Free/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495811793&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=VMS3130
Arlo Smart Home - 1 HD Camera Security System, 100% Wire-Free, Indoor/Outdoor... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_EEgCwb1KPH69N
I'm looking for an web camera that can do the following:
I really like the Arlo, but it can't record continuously, and isn't AC powered, in addition to a few other things it can't do. Anything indoor/outdoor that meets my criteria?
Checkout one of these guys here:https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-System-Wire-Free-Outdoor/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482645458&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=100+wireless+security+camera
It connects to your wifi, sends motion alerts, and contains 7 days of free cloud storage. If you get a dog, just point the camera at your door about 2 1/2 feet up. Then you wont get motion detection on the dog, but you can get an alert when the door opens and even a picture of the persons face when opening your door.
Yes, I use the Aeotec Zwave Stick and have had great success with it (as well as other non-Aeotec products talking to it).
You need a Z-wave USB stick. You can pick one up cheaply enough though.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=lp_3016352011_1_1?srs=3016352011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485117741&amp;sr=8-1
I use this one
That's exactly right. I've not installed Home Assistant on a NAS device before, so I don't know if there are any compatibility issues. But, this is the USB Z-Wave stick that I've seen talked about the most on here:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485280889&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aeotec+zwave
So my suggestions: I've linked the things I use, but they're just suggestions.
I have this aeotec z wave stick
When you say, zwave controller is this what you're referring to?
So I can just put my aeotec z wave stick and put it into the google home hub, and then monitor and control my aeotec z wave smart plugs and temp/light/motion detectors through the google home hub?
Something like an Aeotec Z-Stick
and which usb? This? https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
I would say you probably do not NEED repeaters. It is that it helps with the health of the mesh. But, no need to buy more than you need, you buy 1, if you need more, you buy more.
I honestly don't know of a hub that does both, but i have never really looked. Xiaomi sensors require the Xiaomi hub, unless you want to use them via MQTT. The Z-wave stuff i dont even have a hub. I have THIS, plugged in to a RPI3B+. My PI is what runs Home Assistant.
So basically i have a Pi that runs HASS.IO with the Z-wave stick plugged in. I then have 4 Xiaomi hubs throughout my house. But, other than that, all i have is devices.
Thanks for the information.
I thought Zigbee/Z-Wave wireless sensors were generally compatible with any transceiver (as long as they're the same protocol)? So if I had (for example) a Z-Wave USB dongle that provided a generic virtual serial port or some other interface, I could send and receive messages from a computer to Z-Wave sensors that were paired to the wireless network? (Note: I just randomly selected those two links from Google for examples -- I have no idea if they're compatible or anything, I'm totally new to these technologies and this is what I'm researching.)
I don't have a Raspberry Pi, but I read a few articles talking about modules that could communicate with Zigbee and ZWave, so that's why I mentioned it. I'd rather just use a USB dongle transceiver/antenna with my existing Linux server.
My NVR is just a basic Python application I wrote that's running on the Linux server that records my camera streams to disk with a web interface to view them live or from recordings. It'd be easy to additionally listen to wireless sensor messages, and then log them, tag the recordings and send an alert. That's what I want to do, but I don't know what kind of hardware to look at.
I could set up a motion detection zone on each camera and capture ONVIF events but I feel like a simple door is open or closed sensor would have less false positives. Plus, I want to learn about wireless sensor tech. :)
I use a Raspberry Pi and a Aeotec Z Stick along with Home Assistant
Maybe something like the Aeotec Multisensor
You would just stick it in. They promise about 2 years on battery life.
This is Z-wave, so you would also need something like the Aeotec Z-Stick and leave that in a computer you leave on. I have one at home on a Raspberry PI running home assistant, and view the sensor data there.
I'm sure this isn't the cheapest solution, but it would allow you to expand with other z-wave devices in the future.
If you're looking to use openHAB, I would start by consulting the supported hardware list: http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html
However, don't let that dissuade you from trying other technologies as I've typically never run into issues finding a round-about way to integrate my devices.
For a Z-Wave stick I would recommend Aeon's: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
If you just want to toy around with Z-Wave devices and not break the bank, I would recommend starting with turning something on/off using a wall plug: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC06106-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Energy/dp/B007UZH7B8
I'm not an Aeon rep, I just happen to know both of those products take very little time to get working on openHAB and tend to work flawlessly with it.
I would start there and then decide how much further you want to go with automation.
Very cool. I'd still need a hub though, correct? Or maybe this would work? Sorry, I don't know anything about this world.
I am using the Aeon Lab Z Stick , which works really well in my home.
I use OpenHAB, and with zWave, use this switch which features power monitoring, and use this USB bridge which presents itself as a serial port.
USB Passthru to a linux VM, and OpenHAB has the ability to log this type of data to a SQL db which you could then use for graphing. Some people report this particular switch having issues polling more than a minute, but, I have mine polling every 10 seconds without issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825
You can still get it on Amazon.com :)
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449062832&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aeon+gen+5+usb
**Requires Neutral wire.
I saw this old posting after I made mine: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/8fnjbc/adding_a_regular_zwave_door_sensor_to_your/
Where they talk about getting one of these: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15268
And then putting silicone all over it. Would that work? With a z-wave hub inside the house? I only currently have Google Home with some TP-Link lights & switches. Was thinking of setting up Home Assistant and grabbing this guy ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ADT79X0AD10M3&amp;psc=1 ) to attach to the Raspberry Pi.
Not, wifi as I wasn't thrilled with some of the options. So, I'm about to go down the Z-Wave route:
USB controller
and Light switch.
I'll be basing my setup off a Raspberry PI.
I had the same issue. The image based motion detection just is not ideal for this use outdoors. It works well indoors where you don't have wind or car headlights usually. I ended up setting up PIR motion detectors outdoors in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi running Domoticz. Configuration was not at all easy, but I'm much happier with the alerts I'm getting now. Just getting Domoticz setup as well as adding the motion detectors to it was a chore. Then there was the added hassle of handling the motion events in Domoticz to trigger an HTTP request to a node server I setup, which then made a call to Blue Iris itself.
I used these motion detectors and this z-wave adapter in the setup.
https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484259929&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wink+go+control
I imagine these would work. I use them on my front door.
I'm using a MyQ, it's more expensive but works great.
https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_sims
This is by far the best deal that's been going on for a long time now, so more like standard price (though it goes up to $42 sometimes.)
Not ST brand but compatible and well reviewed. Great price for all three sensors (2 open close and 1 motion). $38 right now.
Its just a zwave motion detector. I took it apart so that it doesn't detect 180 degrees of motion. I just put some white tape on the internal sides of the translucent lens. There is still a bit of light that can come through, but I have that limited to a smaller degree. This is because sunlight can sometimes set the sensor off. I have it secured to my porch ceiling looking straight down. It seems to be very accurate. I suppose if you entered my porch from behind the bushes, you could bypass it, but thats not really the point. I wanted more accurate notifications vs 100 a day. I am using this https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/
I'm not really having issues with it, its not supposed to be outdoors, the only issue seems to be that after freezing, the temp sensor is inaccurate. That's not really a problem for me. I just hide the temp sensor for that particular device. I originally bought these units because I have a wink system, but I am getting away from that. Really any motion detector would take care of business.
That's a nice price. Too bad they apparently don't work (based on the other article).
The GoControl ones work, but cost more, unless you get them in a kit.
Home Depot link
Apparently, they're rebranded under a lot of names. Monoprice sells them, too. Honestly, I wonder what's inside the one you linked.
I picked them up for $41.23 (check the price history on camelcamelcamel) in this bundle on Amazon
... and these, also at Home Depot, look suspiciously similar.
I'm still experimenting with the motion sensor; once you understand how it sleeps between motion alerts, it seems to be working fine. I installed it at the recommended 6', enabled small pet, and it still detects my cats. I'm entertaining raising it or trying the large pet setting.
The sleep value is programmable with a compatible system, but can't be programmed (currently/if ever?) with Wink. You can override it completely via a jumper (always on), but at cost to battery life.
It also includes a temp sensor that says it updates every 1 degree, but the Wink app will often say it's been 68 for five or more hours; no way the temp in my house is THAT stable. I'm left wondering if it reports temp when there's no motion in the room.
These window/door sensors also have TWO contacts; the first one is obvious (the included internal sensor); there are terminals inside that let you add another external sensor contact; it can sense two doors/windows from the one remote, but Wink doesn't (currently/if ever) respond to the code from the external sensor. I hope they will, as I want to use another on my french door refrigerator. One wireless remote monitoring two door sensors.
I'm using one right now on our freezer, and was able to hide it fairly well, too, especially after removing the magnet from its plastic housing that makes it 5 times the size (and any powerful enough magnet would do the trick); our freezer door has never closed very well, without an extra push ... and is often left .5" - 2" open until someone notices hours later after the temp has risen to 17, it's been running all day trying to get back down to 0, and everthing inside is slushy and covered in frost; we now get an alert if it remains open 3 minutes and 5 minutes.
I plan to get more of those kits from Amazon and use the motion sensors as vacancy sensors to turn off lights in empty rooms.
... and here's a comparison review I just found.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUXYSWU
This also works great, and you get 2 sensors and a motion sensor for the same price
Yeah check it out on Amazon. They're listing the 2nd gens with the 1st gen pics. The reviewers on there have pointed it out and they're 100% right. Unfortunately, finding the 1st gens are practically impossible now, so whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-IRM-US-2-F-CEN-IRM-1-Motion/dp/B01IE35PCC
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6 I have this one RCA DB2 its a rebranded Hikvision (hikvision branded ones are available but not in the 3MP model) there is a Laview one that i believe is the same.
I have it set up recording video, audio and motion events in blue iris and use the RCA app for doorbell rings and 2-way audio. It does communicate with a hikvision server but no subscription is required.
Supports a mechanical chime which I am also using.
I'm sure you can integrate video and order into homassistant either using the rstp stream or via mqttt through blue iris if you use it. As far as I know the old model people have been able to do 2 way audio in other software like blue iris but as yet nobody has been able to send voice to it's speaker on the new one.
This one worked ok for me
if you already know about a smart dongle thing that lets you talk to wireless smart devices, and you know about smart door contacts... your question is more about which smart vendor might be open source? i'm afraid i can't advise about that, i just don't know.
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i am unfamiliar with most of the wireless home automation stuff, the likes of Z-Wave, so there certainly may be a solution from that vendor i don't know about. i am familiar with wireless security equipment, and generally speaking vendors are very protective over the channel encryption and usually don't like to share frequencies.
there are usb I/O boards : https://numato.com/product/8-channel-usb-gpio-module-with-analog-inputs
could be combined with z-wave relays : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=zwave+relay+module
and a z-wave door contact : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5/
unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.
You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/
the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/
https://www.amazon.ca/SDI-Technologies-iSS50-Smartmonitor-monitoring/dp/B01LZUSJ26
I post this often as this method has worked for me for a while:
I just recently connected this to my garage opener(Momentary Option): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And used this genius method of using a door sensor since all of the tilt sensors seemed to be buggy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49xC-AXY9w
You could do this with HomeSeer.
Their RPi-based hub is $150 and a Z-Wave door sensor is another $30.
Add the sensor to HomeSeer. Then create a timer. And create two events- 1. when the door is opened, set the timer to 0:00:00 and restart it. and 2. when the timer reaches 48hrs, send an email.
Personally I'd create a 3rd event- when the time is Sunday at midnight (or whatever) send you an email so you know the system is working. That way if she changes her internet or whatever you know this still works.
I use these. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D8ZB28U2ANK0&amp;keywords=ecolink+door+sensor&amp;qid=1569350793&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ecolink%2Caps%2C157&amp;sr=8-3
While I don't use a smatthings hub, they are on the list of Works with Smartthings.
You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.
Smart things
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4
Hubitat
https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4
If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.
Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.
GE Z wave light switch & Extender
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2
For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.
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You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.
Z Wave Door Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4
Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!
Abode Security System
https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5
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For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!
I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.
Kasa Light Bulbs LB110
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5
Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.
I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version
HASSIO
https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/
There's a lot of options for this one. If you're an Apple HomeKit fan, Elgato has these. However, they're low power bluetooth which means something always has to be around to collect the signal if you want to be able to check it outside of your home on your phone for example. If you have an AppleTV 4 then this will do that and relay the info in real time to your phone.
If you are considering upgrading your thermostat, Ecobee has these that provide feedback to the thermostat so you can set the temperature based off a particular room at different times of day. Or you can just look at the temperature in those rooms.
Or if you want a stand alone solution, try something like iHome's WiFi sensor.
There are other options like this: https://www.amazon.com/SensorPush-Wireless-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Android/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483371811&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wireless+temperature+sensor
But those require a bluetooth connection. If you're not in the house you won't get a reading.
I hope your have better luck than me. When I posted my review on Amazon, I got a few responses from people having the same problem.
I moved them from doors to windows since they weren't reliable enough to monitor my doors. I figured if I used them less, they'd be more reliable. However, I'd open the kitchen window to let some fresh air in, and the sensor wouldn't pick up that the window opened. That was the last straw, and I returned them as defective to Amazon. Replaced them with Ecolink units, and they've been bang on reliable. Ecolink's motion sensors have also been pretty solid, although they lack the feature set of more expensive multisensor units.
All that needs to be done with interconnected smoke alarms is to attach a relay (kiddie) and then a dry contact sensor to interface to the hub. No reason to spend six hundred dollars of 5 nest units.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5
> Its a legitimate question.
What is? "Say whaaaaat?" It really isn't.
Take this item for example...
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E
Amazon sells it for $45 bc they limit overhead with ZERO technical staff and no real retail location. Now when someone locally puts the work into making this available for you all they ask is retail price ($55) and your reaction is shock and terror.
> As if no one sells things in B&M stores that are also sold on amazon
This thing isn't your average item. It's an unbelievably small, microscopic niche item.