Best home theater audio products according to redditors
We found 8,434 Reddit comments discussing the best home theater audio products. We ranked the 969 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 8,434 Reddit comments discussing the best home theater audio products. We ranked the 969 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Thanks everyone. I'm glad to join the team and I think I've got a few ideas you will really enjoy. Currently mobile but I will update this post a bit later when I get home.
Time for a celebratory dram.
As requested, my build is below:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $269.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series H50 Liquid CPU Cooler | $49.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $180.81 @ NCIX US
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $56.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $56.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $88.86 @ Outlet PC
Storage | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $62.99 @ Microcenter
Storage | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $62.99 @ Microcenter
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $149.98 @ NCIX US
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card (CrossFire) |-
Video Card | Powercolor Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card (CrossFire) |-
Sound Card | Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card | $19.99 @ Microcenter
Case | Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 ATX Mid Tower Case | $123.84 @ Mac Connection
Power Supply | Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $114.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.98 @ Outlet PC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) | $130.20 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse | $54.99 @ SuperBiiz
Keyboard | Ducky Shine Blue LED Cherry MX Blacks |-
Monitor| Viewsonic VX2439wm|-
Monitor| Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE|-
External DAC| Behringer UCA202|-
Bling| LOGISYS Computer CLK12BL 12" Cold Cathode kit|-
Subwoofer| Dayton Sub-1000|-
Amp| AudioSource Amp-100|-
Speakers| Pioneer SP-BS21-LR 80 Watt RMS 2-Way Speakers|-
Headphones| ATH-M50S|-
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $1443.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-08-09 20:16 EDT-0400 |
Ducky on the old "desk"
more pics incoming... stay tuned while i find a real camera
Desk top and complete picture
So, I got rid of that low voltage regulator that was hard wired to that box, the cheap Amazon Amp I bought had a normal plug in 12v 3amp that I have plugged into the outlet. All the speaker around the house work. Here is the cheap amp I bought. http://amzn.com/B00ULRFQ1A
I havent upgraded all the other speakers yet. Just the base station and 1 room.
Great headphones, an absolute steal for $110. Just make sure you have the power to drive them; a $60 SD793-ii did the job for me.
Quick list of what you are looking at
There is some good and not so good advice in this thread. I hope to help you clear some things up.
Your turntable is a semi-automatic, direct drive with a static-balanced tonearm and P-mount (T4P) type cartridge.
Semi-automatic means it will automatically return to the tone arm rest when the record is finished playing. Direct drive means it uses a motor under the spindle, instead of a belt and pulley system, to spin the record platter. Static-balanced tone arm means the tone arm has a factory set counter weight that cannot be adjusted. T4P P-mount cartridges are a simple, easy to use and install cartridge. They have a standardized tracking force. Your table doesn't have adjustments for tracking force, cartridge alignment or anti-skating. Those are the trade-offs for ease of use.
Your current cartridge is the Radio Shack marketed version of the Shure M92e. I would recommend replacing the stylus for it, but replacing the whole cartridge shouldn't be necessary. If you decide you would like a better cartridge, there are a number of upgrades available. Here is a decent, inexpensive Swiss-made Pfanstiehl replacement styles (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURNTABLE-NEEDLE-STYLUS-SHURE-M92E-M99E-M104-N99E-N104E-/350420981609
You can get more information on your turntable from VinylEngine.com:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-q200.shtml
As others have mentioned, you will need a phono preamp for your turntable. There are several relatively inexpensive options available. For a very entry level preamp, you can use the Behringer PP400:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E
If you are willing to invest a little more, a better phono preamp is the ART DJ Pre II. In my opinion, it is the best value in the retail sub $200 preamp category. It is the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482
EDIT: Phone typo to Phono
Micca MB42x + SMSL SA50 + Chromecast = about $194. You'd also need some speaker cable, and a 3.5mm to RCA cable.
Fluance SX6 if you want to bump up the speakers.
Here’s why:
It actually DOESN’T sound good. Normally, I’m the kind of guy who goes “if it sounds good to you, it sounds good to you”, but Victrola/Crosley/etc brand turntables have incredibly INCREDIBLY cheap components, cheap speakers (that are part of the unit, which I’ll explain why that’s bad in a second), and a bunch more stuff, crammed in an ugly form factor for like $60.
Let’s break all that down:
Cheap components - depending on the model, the Victrola is either $60, or $110, frequently on sale for much less. We must also keep in mind the laws of economics, these machines are cheaper to make then they sell for. Let’s give a conservative estimate of $70 for the 8-in-1, and $40 for the 3-in-1.
The Audio Technica AT95E NEEDLE, not even a whole turntable, not even the cartridge it goes onto, just the needle costs $35, and that’s a cheap entry level needle.
Now ask yourself: if buying a needle is nearly as much as the whole turntable costs to make... how good are those parts? Probably not that great. In fact, the needle on most cheap turntables use ceramics, rather than diamond tips. Ceramic needles not only are harsher on records, but have a poorer quality sound overall.
Then we look at the motor, we need an even speed for playing back records, and with quartz crystals or belts, that’s fairly easy, but those systems are $$$, so we have a cheapo motor that can’t handle a constant speed leading to “wow and flutter”, fluctuations in pitch and sound caused by speed differences. Now, unless you have a really really high end deck, some amounts of wow and flutter are to be expected, but the Victrola has a high amount.
Then, the tone arm. Generally speaking, the needle shouldn’t be pressing down on a record more than 3-4 grams or so, depending on the needle/cartridge you are using. Because these things are portable, they need a solution that doesn’t get goofed up when you move it, so weight from the tone arm varies BY UNIT to 10+ grams. That’s CRUSHING your record, and actively wearing out the grooves. Now, yes, records DO wear out over time, but that’s after hundreds if not thousands of plays.
And lastly, the speakers. These are contained IN THE UNIT, meaning if you are playing loud, they are shaking the whole unit, and thus the needle, and thus reducing the sound. As well as the fact that these speakers are usually quite small, and as stated before, quite cheap.
The rest of the buffalo- So that’s just the turntable! Then you’ve crammed a cassette deck, a CD player, a radio (am and fm with antenna), a aux in, and a Bluetooth receiver in there, and you have to assume the cost of those parts are as cheap as well, so you really have a $20 turntable, $10 CD player, $10 radio, $10 cassette deck, $5 aux input, $10 Bluetooth chip, and $5 for plastic assembly and now you’re realizing you’ve paid $110 for a $70 Machine that promises too much and can’t fulfill much of what it claims to do very well.
Ugly- And then this is down to personal taste: dude, that shits just ugly. Faux wood paneling, a “retro” design that never really existed, disks and buttons everywhere. I’m not saying the LP-120 looks good, but it’s leagues better in comparison.
So that’s why it’s dumped upon.
So why would you spend $110 on a $70 machine, when you could save up about $100 more, and get a DRAMATICALLY BETTER MACHINE. Yes, it's made in China like the rest of the Victrola/Crosley tables, and yes, it has a plastic body, BUT!
It has:
Or, how about only $60 more, and you could get a U-Turn Orbit. It's belt driven, so if you wanna run a record at 45 RPM you'd have to move the belt, but still, DRAMATICALLY better than the motor driving a Victrola, and again, DRAMATICALLY better parts for audio. Sure it's missing a Phono preamp, but that's only $13.
In short: why would you buy a $70 machine for $110 if you could save up a bit more and get something so so so much better
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2
I suggest that 3 part combo. The amp lacks a sub out so run the outputs into the subwoofer, set the crossover to 80Hz, and connect the speakers to the outputs on the sub.
Sure, they are $120 new.
Alternatives:
Powered/Active: 4" Edifiers start at $70. Edifier R980T or larger 5" Swan D1080-IV $140 or Fluance Ai40 $200
Amp+Passive:
$53 Bundle 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier
Mini amps:
Kinter K2020A $33. SMSL SA50 $67, Dayton Audio DTA-120BT $75, Micca OriGain $80 or $100 with USB DAC, more at Zeos AMP and DAC guide.
Speakers:
AverageJoe's Speaker List
Polk Audio T15 $50
Micca MB42X $80
Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 4" Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) $68 or if sale is over, PIONEERSP-BS22-LR $90
Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker $73
DIY C-notes $100
Clearance sale dual 5.25" Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series $100
Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.
Subwoofer:
Franklin Audio FPS10 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer $90 with $10 off coupon
Small budget stereo amps like SMSL 60 to 150 range or if budget real tight there is that Lepai 25 bucks
JBL LSR305's
I'm not sure where you're located so this may not be applicable, but I recommend picking them up at American Musical Supply as they'll cost the same but they throw in a starter pack which includes a volume controller, isolation pads, and some cables.
I have mine paired with a SMSL SD793 and they sound awesome.
Also /r/Zeos is a great resource when I am in the market for anything audio related.
I built up my first "real" listening area and I am absolutely thrilled with how it all came together. Pretty standard C-Note build, I did do the .22uF capacitor mod on the crossover to bring the peak down from -20 dB to -40 dB.
C-Note speaker kit
Crossover PCBs
.22uF capacitor
Binding posts
SMSL SA50
Chromecast Audio
buy one of these
so you can go to the bathroom in the plane and not miss a thing.
dont buy any sound cards - a dedicated DAC/AMP blows any on-board audio and sound card
this is better:
https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524049201&sr=8-2&keywords=fx-audio+dac-x6
​
and cheaper and works on windows/linux/mac without issues
Yes, you will need a separate amplifier, as well as speaker wire and banana plugs (banana plugs optional, gives a cleaner look). One like this would work well:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
Budget Options:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00F0H8TOC?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0
Extreme Budget Option:
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Digital-Amplifier-Stereo/dp/B00C2P61FO
Speaker wire and banana plugs:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=14915&seq=1&format=2
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2
It is a proprietary connector for one of the entry level all in one systems. They were designed to look like a component system but in reality you bought it all together in one box and it all only connected to itself.
I tried to find a pinout or an adapter that you could use but in the 10 minutes I spent i found nothing.
Ostensibly, the five pins would be the same as any other turntable. Right channel, left channel, and chasis ground. You would probably need a line level amp to hook up to it as well.
edit: After further searching, the wires are 12v DC, ground, right, left and signal ground. I can't find a pinout though.
Get a pair of bookshelves and a Chromecast Audio for each room. The music playing can be synced with Chromecast. You could probably do 3 rooms with $500.
Here's an example of what you could get:
3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/
3 x https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481779004&sr=1-1&keywords=mb42x
3 x http://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-chromecast-audio-black/4532100.p?skuId=4532100
1 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWS7HY6/?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3A/?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Went a bit over budget, oh well.
For that amount of money you should be able to get a U-Turn, a preamp and a set of cheap powered speakers.
If you want something even better you can look at used equipment, although I understand giving used stuff for Christmas might not be desirable for all.
EDIT: A system could look something like this:
or if you can stetch the budget a bit
That'd be a total of $284 (with M-Audio) or $328 (with Micca) (excl. potential shipping cost). Much better investment than the all-in-one system. It will sound MUCH better and last your gf MUCH longer. And as an extra bonus she can upgrade individual parts if she decides she wants to gradually upgrade later on - something which is more or less impossible (or at least impractical) with the all-in-one-system.
If you absolutely need a legacy port like optical, then just use a converter.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Otherwise, there's no sense making everyone pay for a jack they don't need.
Well, if you can use headphones while the Switch is docked, then the solution is to buy a Bluetooth Transmitter that you can plug into the headphone port, and pair that up with your bluetooth speakers and headphones.
The UB5's certainly have gotten some very good reviews but at the current price of $500 I would seriously consider going with a different speaker. Yep you guessed it the KEF Q series comes right to the top of the list. These speakers are exceptional values consider the deep discount that is still going on.
The Q100 $300 is a very capable bookshelf speaker that is still small enough to be versatile. The larger Q300 $400 (currently in stock) promises better bass if you're going to for a 2.0 system.
Either one would be a great choice and would save you money over the UB5's right now. From what I've read either of the KEF will be as if not more accurate than the ELAC but will lack in the bass region. However, if you're not a bass heavy music fan or if you're willing to add a sub this is less of a deciding factor.
I also like the fact that you don't need a 4 ohm/ high power amp for these speakers. Any normal stereo receiver or AVR will push these just fine. You could even go with a mini amp but I would use the saved money to at least step up to a full receiver chassis.
Some amp options to consider would be these:
You need an amp. Get something simple like this:
Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/
Skip the dac for now. Spending $70 on a dac but $40 on speakers is ridiculous. There are cheaper, smaller dacs out there as well. And that one has a phono preamp, which is pointless if you aren't incorporating a turntable.
I'd recomend a more powerful amp as well for better sound. Something like an smsl 36 at least. The 50 is a step up I started with the micca mb42x for speakers. Speakers are the most important part. If your budget is this tight I'd probably even skip the sub for now too. Start with a quality amp with quality speakers. Then you can look for a sub. THEN you can think about a dac. I got fiio e10K to use mainly as a headphone amp. The DAC really wasn't a noticeable improvement over my laptops sound. So I will be selling it.
You'll need an amp to power the speaker, so that's something you should keep in mind.
Either that, or try to find some powered monitors for $600.
For example, two KRK Rokit 8's will achieve pretty deep bass at 45 Hz, and are self powered. They also fall within your budget. http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP8G2-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B001A6IGDG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376426453&sr=8-3&keywords=rokkit+krk
Or, you could buy the Audiosource AMP-100 50 wpc amp. $100 http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376426626&sr=8-3&keywords=amplifier
That would leave $500 for a pair of speakers. Since you're looking for party speakers with a lot of sound, you might just want to check out Cerwin Vega. They aren't really audiophile quality, but they should make lots of noise.
Two of these might do the trick for $400 total: http://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-VE-8-2-Way-Audio-Speaker/dp/B000EHYHJY/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&srs=2529137011&ie=UTF8&qid=1376426810&sr=1-5&keywords=cerwin+vega
A pair of these JBL speakers might also do the trick for $400 for the pair: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES80BK-3-Way-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B00166ZFXO/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1376426922&sr=1-4
I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.
> Do I need an amplifier?
Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.
A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.
All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.
> Do I need a digital to audio converter?
Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca
To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.
DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI
Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K
Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2
Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ
With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O
Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S
This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.
Depends on the type of setup you're looking for, the most common of which are 2.0, 2.1, or 5.1 (or more).
For simple stereo music listening, you'd need a 2 channel amplifier, (such as a the small and very inexpensive but decentish Lepai, or better the SMSL SA-50, or a full size receiver such as this Pioneer) and a way to play and input your music.
For that you could use your computer and an Aux cable, or you could use your phone and an inexpensive bluetooth receiver. This would be a 2.0 system (2 main speakers only, no sub).
You may wish to add a subwoofer for better reproduction of low frequencies. As the subs usually come with their own amplification, but accept high level (already amplified) inputs, you can just wire them together from the amplifier. This would be a 2.1 system.
Plus you need speaker wires and maybe wires for input (like Aux) depending on your setup.
For Home Theater plus music, you'd want a Home Theater receiver such as this Denon, that plays at least 5.1 channels (the .1 is for the subwoofer. This will give you a setup to power Left and Right front speakers, a Center Channel, plus 2 surround speakers. You still need a way to play your source, such as a CD player.
As u/smackdaddies pointed out, you could get four of these Pioneer speakers, plus the related center channel and a sub, plus the receiver, for under $500. It would be a pretty great sounding (budget) 5.1 system.
Once you decide on the type of setup you're interested, we can help you choose items here on r/BudgetAudiophile.
If it's your first TT and you're just getting started, /r/vinyl recommends this one. I've been happy with mine, although I do plan to upgrade in the future. If your budget is a little higher, I've heard good things about this one.
The one I plan on eventually getting is this guy.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say "no phono stage" Your amp doesn't have a Phono preamp, just line level. If you review the tiny bit of info that comes with that cart you'll see that the output is somewhere around .5mv Line level, What you get from CD players your TV etc is around 1v.
get yourself one of these:http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=pd_sim_MI_2 (though sumiko/pro-ject makes a much nicer one for only a bit more moola. Happy spinning!
I'm still rocking a 60 gig, gen 2 ipod from back in the day. It holds a charge for a solid 30 min. Just don't forgot to plug it before the battery dies, as it will get stuck in a boot loop on reboot. If that happens, no worries, it'll eventually turn on again for reasons unknown to me.
Here are some pics with a quarter for scale:
Back (60gb) -
Front -
Side
But now the true INSANITY of the setup. I rock that ancient artifact with these babies. Standard issue, free at seminar, google IEMs. The replaced my exclusive American Red Cross earbuds. This abominable marriage, accompanied with the most excellent 50gigs of 96kbps mp3s, is my running setup. Sometimes it gets weird.
But seriously now, I think these giveaways are cool. I have pretty decent mid level headphone setup for my nice, quiet, critical listening times. I've been looking to venture out of the headphones into stereo setups a little bit, so it's cool that those monitors are the giveaway for this contest!
As far as next months giveaway, I think an amp like this would be pretty cool. Also, I don't know how anyone else would feel about this, but have you thought about giving away software at all? Maybe a few copies of dBpoweramp would be cool. Shipping would obviously be easy, too.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484858805&sr=1-2&keywords=smsl
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484859060&sr=1-1&keywords=mb42x
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-F8V235-12-3-5mm-cable-12-Feet/dp/B01K9SCY88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484859089&sr=1-7&keywords=stereo%2Bto%2Brca&th=1&psc=1
/done
That's interesting, but unfortunately most of these builds are DIY and lack any sort of standardization, so you'll have to do most of the heavy lifting in order to figure out what you have, as well as what you need.
As to your first point, you probably do need some sort of room selection, as well as a) an amplifier which powers the speakers, and b) either a single streaming platform (e.g. Chromecast Audio, Sonos Connect, etc.) to send signal to all speakers, or multiple streaming platform to send signal to individual speakers or rooms.
As to your second question, that depends on how you want to answer the above questions, and on how they're set up. As I mentioned, there probably isn't much standardization between this build and others, so I would start this whole process by getting a basic amplifier (Lepai 2020 is fine for this purpose) and going through each wire in that bunch as well as each pair of connectors in the garage (see below). Turn off the amp, hook up a pair of speakers, turn on the amp, play something, track down the sound, label the wires by room (colored electrical tape), stop playing, repeat.
After you figure out how the speakers, wires, and wall panels are connected, you can work on picking out an amplifier, a streaming platform, and a room selection device. I would budget $1000 for this, but it can probably be done for less. If you don't want to spend that right now (understandable), you can probably wire up one room to a Chromecast Audio and an SMSL SA50 (non-plus) for less than $100 if that room has a priority (see below).
As to your last question, those are probably banana plugs. Just another termination for speaker wire, not a big deal in the context of the rest of this. If you need banana plugs, Amazon or Monoprice have them for basically nothing.
The most basic set-up for whole home audio you could have is this speaker selector, this amplifier, and this streaming device. Probably $250 for the full home, or more if you have more than 4 rooms wired.
Alternately, if you want to be able to play two different streams in two rooms simultaneously, you could put this streaming device and this amplifier in the ceiling of each room. Google Home allows for CCAs to be combined into groups rather flexibly- you could put Kitchen-Living Room- Bathroom in one group, and Bedroom 1-Garage in another, and Living Room- Bedroom 1 in another, and every CCA you have in yet another, and still have the ability to play music in any one room on its own. Very nice system, but doing this is realistically $100 per room. If you don't mind limiting yourself to pairs of rooms, you can cut down on this cost by adding a four-channel room selector to this chain.
High-end receivers also may contain their own multi-room, multi-source implementations, but you're typically limited to two rooms, and two sources. Add in two splitters like this and you can expand that capability out to two groups of four speakers, but those groups would be less flexible than the CCA setup above. This setup is $500.
Honestly, amps are one of the things that you're not going to get better quality for your your $ if you DIY.
DIY for fun, to learn or because you want to build something specific/oddball (like a 3 channel setup that I did once). If those are your goals by all means find a DIY project.
But, the fact you specifically stated you're looking for a cheap amp to power those speakers makes me think you're just looking for a cheap amp.
Also, spending that much money on an amp ($200) for a pair of speakers worth $130 is a bad way to spend your money to be honest. 50/20/20/10 budget split is the rule, speaker/room treatment/amp/everything else and when you can't or don't want to treat the room, then that budget goes into the speaker.
Get yourself an SMSL SA-50 for $66. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/
It has an optical out so if you want a cheap dac/amp combo you could use the SMSL SD 793II and if your PC has an optical out you can use it with that too.
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM
Also according to this thread on gamefaqs
http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/691087-playstation-4/69310423
It does support USB dacs but I have no experience with this so you should do more research.
As for the 'flat' sounding of headphones I'm fairly certain the 598's are fairly efficient though I think an amp could possibly help tighten the bass region due to the 300ohm peak at 100hz IIRC.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/SennheiserHD598.pdf
Something like E10k also has a bass boost which may be helpful if you find them too bass light. But that's usb so you should do research on that.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2
Have a look over at /r/budgetaudiophile.
What I recently went with was a GHM, chrome cast audio, a set of KEF q100’s and an amp. Sound quality is amaaaaaazing, and it’d come in much cheaper.
Q100: $250
GHM: $50
GHA: $35
Yamaha amp: $150 (https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Natural-Stereo-Receiver-R-S201BL/dp/B00F0H88SY)
Active speakers have separate audio and power inputs. They each have a power cable going to the wall in addition to a cable going to the media device. They do not require an external amplifier.
Passive speakers only have one combined audio/power input. Most speakers are passive and require an external amplifier.
For a home theater setup, I have been recommending a 3.0 + receiver setup for years to my friends. My friend finally purchased a center channel and wishes he would have done it years ago.
Home theater receivers like this one are 4k HDR HDMI switches and amplifiers built into one. You would plug your media devices into your receiver and switch between them using the receiver instead of the TV. I do not recommend using an analog stereo amplifier in a home theater setup - buy a good current generation 5.1 receiver and you won't have to replace it unless it breaks or until HDMI goes away.
After picking up a receiver, you would need some speaker wire and then some passive speakers to pair with it (like OP). Connecting the speakers to your receiver is as simple as connecting red to red and connecting black to black.
Post script: Most media now is produced primarily with 5.1 mixing, meaning that the dialogue is engineered with the assumption that a dedicated center channel speaker is present. Your sound will be way more clear if you were to buy a receiver and stereo speakers compared to built-in TV speakers, but there is a massive massive difference once you are able to listen to the proper 5.1 sound mix when using stereo + center channel setup. Ever felt like you needed to turn up the sound to hear the talking and then turn it down once a chase/shooting scene started? That ends when the characters can talk through a center channel speaker.
As others have suggested, /r/zeos is a fantastic audio resource. I've been extremely happy with all the gear I've purchased from his recommendations.
I wouldn't recommend using noise cancelling headphones for monitoring as the active technology in them may affect the sound and make it more difficult to hear any issues on the day.
If you did want to use them though presuming they are bluetooth you'd need some kind of bluetooth audio transmitter. I'd recommend turning off the noise cancelling if at all possible.
don't get a Crosley. the sound quality is awful and the needles will scratch your records. don't get anything with built in speakers
I have an Audio Technica AT-LP60. You will need to buy speakers, a pre-amp, and speaker wire separately, however. Here are the links for my exact setup, which does really well for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Stereo-Turntable/dp/B008872SIO?th=1&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41VzGIA31cL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0J2MN8S0YCF0Q5TG212Z
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1GGVDRVMDR9W92VB0BTV
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=07TNM6NMM0YNRV6JH45F
while this whole setup is about $30-$40 outside of your price range, it's well worth it.
Bought this little doohickey Works awesome
What about the Micca Covo-S?
Though you'd also need an amplifier with those. You could easily get by with a Lepai Amp though.
Is an amp needed in that price?
Look into either of thede speakers:
Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B3ekzbXR3T0AD
Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E4ekzb11C5YZJ
With this amp:
Lepy LP-2024A+ Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier Stereo Power Amplifier Car Amplifier with Power Supply, 3A Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u5ekzbPS4WWVE
That's about as good of a low budget system as possible, while still being a foray into hobby/enthusiast audio equipment. Unless you want to look into used stuff. Going use can get you a really good set up for price but take more work to find but is hard to recommend.
The Lepy amplifier - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H5GJH4RDGYM655TC5FA6 - is small, sounds great (many audiophiles recommend it), and has a 3.5mm jack input so is perfect for a Chromecast Audio. You can just leave it on.
I have this amp, along with a set of Wharfedale Diamond bookshelf speakers.
I'd really recommend using a proper Chromecast Audio rather than an in-built solution: easy to swap out to something else when the time comes.
From what I understand, the audio is streamed to the controller via Bluetooth. The controller itself probably has a poor DAC, and it's amping capabilities are probably lackluster. Try using this with a SPDIF cable from your PS4.
$300 for 2.1?
Bookshelf speakers: Pioneer BS21
Amplifier: AudioSource AMP100 runs 50w at 8ohm. It will be plenty clear and loud.
Subwoofer: Dayton SUB-100 - 100w powered subwoofer
spend the rest on speaker wire and shipping. You're going to want to plug your source into the amplifier via a 3.5mm to RCA cable. Then wire the amplifier into the subwoofer. Wire out of the subwoofer to the speakers and that's it.
I have the same speakers & subwoofer, but a different amp (similar power rating). It sounds really good if everything is positioned well. Enjoy.
SMSL SA50 ($67): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RthDDbDAZR43F
Micca MB42X ($79.95): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UAhDDbJYN7S0D
Comes in right under your budget, and plenty of people on these forums have been happy with that setup (I have no experience personally with the amp or speakers).
Studio monitors, or powered monitors in general can work great in a 2.0 or 2.1 system. Broadly, they will be much more "hi-fi" than the Pro Media's will be; but also more expensive, especially when you factor in adding subwoofer.
The Klipsch's run ~$140 retail, and at that price you can begin to build a solid budget 2.1 set up.
There a few good solutions at this point, my personal favorite would be:
This puts you @ $150
Adding this sub would get you up to $230 but also complete a system that would be world better than the Klipsch or anyother 2.1 system commonly used for computers.
$300 - $500 can get you a great new setup if you piece it together correctly. On the lower end, here's one I'd recommend
Turntable: U-Turn Orbit Basic: $179
Phono Preamplifier: ART Pro Audio DJPRE II: $49
Speakers: Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers: $100
By going with active/powered speakers, you can forego getting an AV Receiver for amplification needed for passive speakers (you could also look at receivers with built in phono stages and passive speakers if you want to spend a bit more).
This would cost about $330, not including any additional/longer cables or any other accessories. It isn't a top of the line rig, but it would be a pretty big upgrade from what you have now
You could also go the vintage route and probably get an even better setup, but you'll need to know a bit more on what to look for in terms of conditions and brands and whatnot
Cheapest new turntables that are good:
For the top four, you'd need a phono stage too e.g. this one.
If you're from the US then posting your CL would let people on here find a good second hand purchase for you that would potentially be much, much cheaper with a tiny bit of TLC first.
Are you looking for amp/speakers too?
Pro-Ject Debut III ($300, free ship): http://www.amazon.com/PRO-JECT-DEBUT-MATTE-BLACK-TURNTABLE/dp/B000CDHQK2
ART DJPRE II phono preamp ($49, free ship): http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Outputs-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375872010&sr=8-4&keywords=phono+preamp
Grado SR80i headphones (because shipping speakers sucks! $99, free ship): http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Prestige-SR80i-Stereo-Headphone/dp/B000G3LCQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375872251&sr=1-1&keywords=grado
Fiio E6 amp ($26.14, free ship): http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8/ref=pd_sim_e_5
This is one of the many solutions you can do with $500 if you must have brand new.
http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
http://www.amazon.com/Mordaunt-Short-Alumni-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B0049APO8U
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12
http://www.fluance.com/product/SX6_High_Definition_Two_way_Bookshelf_Loudspeakers.eng-12.html
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG
http://www.amazon.com/Fostex-PMO-4-W-4-Inch-Personal-Speaker/dp/B00CYNT8XG
http://www.amazon.com/Alesis-Elevate-Speakers-Elliptical-Waveguide/dp/B00F3F7OIS
Ohhh, a newbie! This will be fun... 🙃
A standard record player/turntable (you can use them interchangeably) will output using stereo RCA. The signal needs to go through a Phono Preamp first. Some turntables have a preamp built-in, most do not (especially as you move up the quality scale).
Then you need an amplifier to power the speakers you get. Some speakers can be plugged directly into a “line-level” jack (think headphone port). Others need an amplifier. You can get a cheap one on Amazon like this, or a nicer one like this, or you could try your local thrift store; stereo amps don’t have to be particularly new, so it’s often easy to score one for cheap.
As for the actual record player, [Rega] and Pro-Ject are the two big brands, as well as U-Turn and the every level. What I would call the first fully “proper” turntable starts at around $400. A U-Turn Orbit can be had for around $200. You can get a black plastic Sony or AudioTechnica on Amazon for $100, but I would advise against it.
The tables you’ll want to look for are the Rega Planar 1 (or “P1”), the Pro-Ject Debut/Debut Carbon, or the U-Turn Orbit. Don’t buy from Amazon. Best Buy/Magnolia is a good source, as is your local Hi-Fi dealer (assuming you have one).
I’ve owned the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon and the Regs P3, and liked them both. Please feel free to ask my anything, or PM me. I’m happy to help in any way that I can!
Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire
It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.
From the looks of that receiver, there's no "phono" input, which routes the signal through an additional preamp before hitting the power amp. Older A/V components have them, I doubt yours with 4 HDMI inputs does. You could try connecting it via USB, but I'd advise against that and instead point you to an inexpensive phono preamp like this:
http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376256067&sr=8-1&keywords=phono+preamp
Wow this was a really helpful post, especially to beginners like me! Thanks so much! While I don't have a problem with noise or volume currently, I was thinking of buying something budget friendly like the SybaSonic SD-DAC63057 in order to have basically an external soundcard on my desk. Currently I have to drape the short cord of these Phillips across my body to my PC on my right, and the cord is just plugged in to the top/front audio jack. It would be nice to have an easy-to-use USB DAC/amp on my desk to my left so I can have easier cord management, sound out of my PC to eliminate any risk of interference, and a nice analog volume control to boot :) but I will DEFINITELY keep this post saved if/when I upgrade to the next step :D
My Encore mDac has been working intermittently as of late. I have the pleasure of listening to headphones for about 6 hours of my work day, so having a DAC/Amp combo at my desk is nice. However, with a 4 week old baby, my budget was super limited. I came across the Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 and decided to give it a try. It checked all the boxes. Cheap ($37). No driver install needed (work computer, can't install anything). Enough power (100mw) to drive my IEMs and more sensitive over ears. USB only power.
Full specs can be found here
The unit features variable line outs, top mounted volume knob, optical out, coax digital out, usb in (for power and signal), mic input, 3.5mm input, 3.5mm headphone out, and 1/4" headphone out (both headphone outputs work simultaneously.
The unit has indicator lights to show what signal is being received (96, 44, or 44.1), and an indicator light of sorts that flashes with the music, that comprised of a red and blue LED. Kind of neat.
The unit also features a hardware EQ that includes a 7db (yes, 7db!) treble boost, a direct no EQ option, and a 7db bass boost. The hardware EQs are a bit much for me, and I find I leave the unit set to direct most of the time. However, there is one expectation. I have set of custom reshelled Ultimate Ears Triple.Fi 10's, and in the process, the treble took about a 6db drop. So, for that one set of CIEMs, the treble boost is just right. However, that is a pretty oddly specific scenario, and I would imagine most people won't want to use the hardware EQ.
Of note, the device is always on, as there is no power switch. The volume knob has the most minute channel imbalance as the absolute lowest setting. And, there is an uncomfortable audible crackle / pop when plugging in sensitive headphones to the 3.5mm headphone out. All be it, it doesn't seem to be enough to damage anything.
I have successfully used the Syba Sonic DAC/Amp with my Chromebook, MacBook Air, and my Windows 7 work PC. I have not tried it on a Windows 10 device, but after scouring the Amazon “reviews” it seems that it may not play nice with all Win10 installs so YMMV. As the unit is not battery powered, it won’t work with mobile devices.
When compared head to head with my Encore mDac, the Syba Sonic unit sounds a tad better. The bass is a bit fuller and the treble has just a hair more sparkle. Detail representation is on par, if not better than anything in this price range. All in all, for $37 I am super pleased with the purchase. I love the design with the volume knob on top. And the fact that the RCA outs are variable makes this a great option for those that want a budget option to use with powered monitors.
I have run the unit, as mentioned, with my CIEM reshelled TF.10's, as well as with my UM3X, Fischer Audio FA-003 wooden cup over ears, NAD VISO HP50's, AKG K7XX, and handful of other mid-range to lower IEMs. I did find that it struggled a bit to run the K7XX with any authority, but all the other headphones / IEMs I have tried have worked just fine. The only other negative is that, with the volume knob at full tilt, there is an audible hiss on most sensitive headphones (read: 32ohm and below).
I would recommend this unit for anyone with a tight budget that wants a somewhat feature rich DAC/Amp. It would also make a great external sound card thanks to the mic input.
Currently I'm using this which is overkill for these speakers, but I got it for a good price and I wanted something that could comfortably power beefier speakers down the line.
The old recommendation was to get a Lepai 2020a, but since those no-longer use the Tripath chips, I'd go with something like the SMSL SA36 or SA50.
> I am looking into the Z625 right now.
Nope, no... no.
Don't buy Logitech, seriously.
Here's an alternative suggestion:
SMSL-50
Micca RB42's!
u/Polypeptide147 will be able to sing the praises of these speakers... the system I described will perform much better than those crap Logitech 2.1 systems.
Okay, fine, I went over your budget by $10... but I promise you, it's worth it! Friends don't let friends buy Logitech.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469833807&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=t+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch
I think there is something in the sidebar about this....
At this point, you're better off buying a modern receiver with HDMI and digital support, and either getting it with an analog phono input or buying a separate pre-amp.
All the solutions suggested below will give such poor performance you'll be disappointed.
$195 USD via Amazon.com for a Denon receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498324157&sr=8-4&keywords=denon
If you have room for a full size receiver, that would be the best option. Something like this Yamaha. If not, that SMSL would be good, as would a Topping MX3.
Honestly--buy one of these. Guaranteed it will be as good or better.
Be sure that if your record player does not come preamplified, you will need a preamplifier to give it the output it needs to be at the proper line level output. I got this little guy and it works perfect from my turntable to my ZP90 that's set up to my computer's speakers!
You could absolutely use those. Don't worry about the max ratings.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505763906&sr=8-3&keywords=amplifier
Same, I have to stop myself from buying more entry level headphones because it's a lot easier to financially justify buying an entry level pair then a mid - hifi pair.
Although I did just listen to Zeos again when he said that an entry 2.1 speaker setup is just as good / better than a mid to hfii pair of headphones which resulted in me buying the components for a 2.1 setup:
Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver
Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers
Dayton Audio SUB-1000 10-Inch 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer
If you must get a 2.1, then I suggest getting the Logitech Z623. It is good for gaming, but not great for music. You can pick it up at Best Buy or Amazon for $99
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Z623-Watt-Speaker-System/dp/B003VAHYTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214631&sr=8-1&keywords=z623
​
If you want good sound quality for music, then I suggest either of the following systems in your budget:
​
Passive system:
Polk T15 Speakers - $70
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214644&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=polk+t15&psc=1
and
Lepai LP-2020TI Amp - $25
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214708&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp2020ti
​
Speaker wire & 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable
​
Powered system:
Edifier R1280T Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214772&sr=8-2&keywords=r1280t
​
​
FWIW or if it might help I got this from Amazon and it puts out some decent sound. You'd be able to mount it right to the same board as that receiver is on I'd assume.
Anyone have good suggestions for an amp that matches the budget of these speakers? So far I've been looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN
Not entirely done researching all this stuff (newbie audiophile) but it would be nice to hear from someone with IRL experience anyway.
If you aren't turned off by your bad experience with the Ai40s, I am using the Fluance signature series bookshelf speakers with an SMSL AD-18 amp. There is no noticeable hiss. I use it for my turntable, pc and tv all with good results. If you only want to use it for your turntable I have heard good things about the SMSL SA50 as a basic amp.
​
Fluance Signature Series
​
SMSL AD-18
​
SMSL AD50
>And I don’t understand speaker setups all that much.
That's your biggest hurdle right there. What are you wanting? I've ran a good stereo-only home theater, and a good 2.1 setup before. I'd rather have either of those than a poor quality 5.1.
Soundbars typically replace quality with quantity. They became popular when TVs started getting real thin and having crap sound. a $2-300 powered speaker setup will have better sound. And if you don't want wires around the room, that's a good place to start.
Get something like these Klipsch R-15PM. You can use them now as-is and add a sub later. That will be a pretty damn solid 2.1 setup.
Or get an AMP and separate SPEAKERS. (Just examples). You can have a good system pretty easily.
Sure they do, they make 2.1 amps AND 2.1 AVR's. In terms of AVR's there are a limited number, and Imho you should just go 5.1 if you go the AVR route
In my experience, the 2.1 avrs aren't any smaller than the 5.1 units.
Amplifiers, however, can be very small. But I would only advise buying an amplifier if you are ONLY using a single source. If you need something that can do source switching, an AVR cannot be beat.
SMSL is very popular on r/budgetaudiophile. You could make quite a competent little 2.1 setup with one of those, some good bookshelves and a sub.
Something like this seems pretty ideal for a desktop, to me
They are solid, but just be aware, that Z only recommends those with different ear pads. https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO. It's an extra expense (only $20) but it might put you out of budget.
​
Also, you will want to eventually save up for an amp/dac combo unless you have a great motherboard. Most motherboards will be able to power the m40x, but you won't get the most out of them. A solid entry-level amp/dac is here: https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549221478&sr=1-3&keywords=fx+audio+dac-x6
​
Also, the Cloud Hyperx 2 are actually some decent headphones. I'm not sure you will be getting that much of an upgrade going to m40x. If it's an option, wait, save up $50 and buy the Sennheiser hd58x Jubilees on Massdrop. You seriously won't regret it and your mind will be blown.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | $264.90 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $54.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Turbo OC Video Card | $454.98 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA - BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.25 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | $191.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1201.09
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $1176.09
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-13 16:13 EST-0500 |
For audio may I suggest the HD58x and a cheap amp/dac like this one.
If you look around you should be able to get a Windows license for $50 ish.
You need a phono pre-amp to amplify the signal, or a different amp with a phono input built in. Here is a couple of very cheap pre-amps: pyle or Behringerfor example.
I don't have one, but it looks like an Audiosource Amp-100, although the power rating is a tad higher. There are reviews around.
Probably a u turn with a phono preamp and a good set of active speakers. If you want passive speakers get this for an amp. http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427739491&sr=8-7&keywords=speaker+amp
You could pick up a little T amp. I have this one but there are cheaper options available. That only has two outputs and just a knob for volume control. Itd be good for testing them out and music for parties, etc but not realistic for TV watching since you'd have to get up to change the volume.
Everyone is going to tell you to get a receiver. Youre at the opportunity where you can dive into the home theater world and, if you have the funds, you won't regret it.
I use an AmazonBasics Bluetooth adapter with a nice set of 2.1 Creative PC speakers.
The adapter has the quirk of always reconnected to Echo Dot's Bluetooth if it's turned on. The speakers never go to sleep. The sound is excellent, and there's a subwoofer with adjustable bass so that my Amazon Music Unlimited account is put to good use.
It's about $45 for a set of those speakers used, and $20 for the Bluetooth Adapter. Alternately, Creative updated that model of speakers with Bluetooth built in, so you could go for that-- But I already had the previous model, and I can't vouch for how the Bluetooth works in the newer model.
Either way, the $20 adapter is great if you already have good speakers that you know don't go to sleep.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TBR5VTAAVD7JRFAATMZD
Something like this
I couldn't tell you anything about the system and how good it is. I can however show you how to make it bluetooth compatible. With a slight bit of looking, I belive this is the rear of the bottom unit?
>Because I don't really own any CDs and have never used a tape.
You don't need the top two units connected if you want to save space. All you'll need to get bluetooth up and running is a bluetooth receiver, like this AmazonBasics one. If you choose not to use the CD player, the little bluetooth receiver will just plug into the back of the amplifier under CD using the RCA to 3.5mm cable provided. Remember that red is right (R) and black is left (L).
You're only saying it's complicated because of your very specific requirements, i.e. using a monitor. That's certainly not the norm, now is it?
However, don't get me wrong, being able to listen via the gamepad is convenient if using headphones. A lot of people would really like that feature for the Netflix app, for instance. On the flipside of that, you could simply plug headphones into a tv (normal procedure) or for people like myself, an audio amplifier.
Now, here's a solution specifically for you - http://www.amazon.co.uk/ViewHD-Audio-Extractor-Converter-Model-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
This will allow you to split the audio off so you can set up audio outside of your audio-less monitor. If you have the right cable adapter, you could use headphones. I know this works because, I have this same device for when I visit my parents' house as, they have a faulty audio system on their tv. So, this allows me to patch the audio digitally, via an optical cable.
So, I have a roomate and I'm planning to play this game on midnight release alllll freaking night long. My roomate has work the next day so I already thought about this and looked what my options are so I'll tell you in most simplest terms:
Option 1: If you have a smart TV with bluetooth capabilities BAM problem solved you can pair your wireless headphones (In which case I have Sony Over Ear Extra Bass Wireless Headphones
Option 2: If you're like me and don't have a smart TV, but you want to use wireless bluetooth headphones you're going to have to get a wireless bluetooth adapter which is this one here. You plug it in to your TV headphone jack OR your RCA red and white cable and pair your wireless headphones like that. Great thing about this adapter is you can charge while using!
Option 3: Get good ol' wired headphones and plug it into your tv.... most gaming wired headphones have long enough wires for you to plug and play comfortably.... but nothing beats those extra bass wireless headphones :)
Cheers! 29 more days!
Yes, the amp powers...or more accurately, I would say, amplifies the sound going to the speakers. I'm pretty sure the one you listed does not include the power supply though. I would consider this one if your budget is that low. Adding a subwoofer is definitely not mandatory. I'm not familiar with the speakers you have, but that is probably going to be the first improvement you should consider later down the road.
First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.
First let's start with powered options:
The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.
Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.
Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.
Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option
Micca MB42X also get great reviews.
You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.
Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.
I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.
Amp & Speakers
What your looking for is called a DAC/Amp. I like this SMSL.
A lot of people like the Schiit Fulla 2, but I have the Fulla 1 and can honestly say it's a piece of crap, so I'm not sure I can recommend it. The fulla 2 is much different, it could easily be better.
You really don't need much more than that. I usually spend ~$500 on headphones but I don't see any reason to spend more than $100 on a DAC amp.
There might be something to be said about getting higher end amps with high impedance headphones, but I've never wanted more than my Schiit modi/magna stack, even with high impedance headphones.
I actually ordered this last night.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H88SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1462226856&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=yamaha+receiver&dpPl=1&dpID=31LAAKCGZeL&ref=plSrch
That will get you going but I recommend you eventually take out the internal preamp and replace it with a decent external preamp such as http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AJR482/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1462226963&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Phono+preamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41VPBILjagL&ref=plSrch
Alright, your TV has RCA outputs and the option of fixed or variable output through there. If you wanted you could just grab two JBL LSR305 and connect them with RCA to TRS cables. Probably $450 total but would sound much better than the miccas. Go into your TV audio settings and select variable audio out. This way you can change volume through your TV remote. Just set the amp on the back of the JBL speakers to 8 or so and never touch them again.
If you want to go the passive speaker route for upgradability then you can grab a stereo receiver like this Yamaha for $200. Just plug your TV in with RCA cables. This allows you to spend an extra $100 on speakers. You'll save even more money if you look through your local listings for a used receiver. If you like the Klipsch sound you can go for these. Otherwise look through your local listing for a good tower speaker that you can afford. I was going to recommend the Pioneer FS52 but a pair of those would go over your budget. You can try pairing them with a cheap SMSL amp, but I would be worried they would distort a tad early.
The best sounding setup out of the box would be the JBL LSR305, but it's also the least upgradeable setup.
What others have said here is correct, you can't power your Micca's with a subwoofer, but that doesn't mean that you can't get everything working for $200.
Amplifier: SMSL SA50 $69
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-1000 $129
You'll need to run speaker wire from the amp to the high level inputs of the subwoofer, and then wire from the high level outputs on the subwoofer to the Micca's. Inputs on the amplifier are RCA, but you can use a cheap 3.5mm to RCA cable if you want to run the setup off of something such as you phone or laptop that doesn't have RCA outputs.
EDIT: The r/audiophile purchase help thread or r/budgetaudiophile might have some other options for you to consider as well
You'll need a phono preamp.
Here's a very good one for under $50.
Not as good, but decent and will get the job done super cheap.
Nice grab on that Technics.
You need a phono preamp. A normal amp won't cut it. Turntable output levels are low, and the bass is really reduced on the record itself because if it was done at the right levels, the needle could jump around and potentially damage the record. This change in recording media is referred to as RIAA Equalization.
To fix the bass, you're going to want a proper phono preamp to apply the proper equalization curve. The Art DJ Pre II is recommended in the Budget Setup Guide, so I would consider purchasing it if you do not wish to purchase another receiver with a phono input.
Probably the $72 Orb Audio Mini T or the $68 SMSL SA50. I read reviews on the Lepy amps on amazon and they seem not-so-good even though it's a tempting $40. So I'm looking in the ~$70 range. Leaning towards the orb audio since it has a 3.5mm for convenience sake (and a subwoofer connecter, idk if that's useful for miccas).
> Better than built-in TV speakers, cheaper than a 2.1 setup
That's not setting a high standard. If you have analog output from your TV, get a small amp for $70, and a pair of bookshelf speakers for $130, and you'll get far better sound quality than this soundbar.
Start with a nicer 2.1 system and build on later.
The Klipsch RP-150m are MUCH better quality:
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RP-150M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Ebony/dp/B00RXHEIHE
Save $100 with this larger sub:
http://www.parts-express.com/bic-formula-f-12-12-475-watt-subwoofer--303-436?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
Denon 5.2 receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG
Total $830
If you're willing to buy used speakers, you can get a much better deal. Don't buy a used receiver though.
For listening to music? Something like this should work.
FYI those Pioneers go on sale for $130 a pair new (although haven't been that price for a while). These are probably good and on sale for $130 as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH190-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B078WFDR8D
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
These have bluetooth built in but you can add lossless wifi streaming to anything with a $50 Chromecast Audio from eBay.
I would highly recommend the Micca bookshelf speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=515pxM5mGPL&ref=plSrch
Or the Dayton Audio bookshelf speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RMPHMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41h2GNNeZmL&ref=plSrch
With a small amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218848&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=turntable+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch
I have used all of them with my Chromecast Audio. They sound great.
If you're running more than 2 things at 4K 60 hertz, you'll need an AV (audio-visual) Receiver.
Check out THIS guide from a guy named Zeos.
A quick amazon search led me to THIS one which has 3 4K 60 Hz pass throughs.
Do a bit of research before buying. The setup for these is pretty simple, but you should know what you're getting into. Basically, all your input devices (cable box, Xbox, etc) go into this receiver, and the receiver outputs to your TV and speakers (if you have external ones).
However, you should really ask yourself if you need this. What are you planning on plugging into the TV?
You can get the newer version of that receiver for $230 on amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG
You can totally get both high quality TV and music audio over wireless for a reasonable price. Check out the Chromecast Audio or Apple Airport Express. Both will stream audio over wifi to any speaker setup you go with.
I only have experience with Apple's Airplay, but if you have a couple Apple devices, it's super simple to use and works really well. You can pick up and Airport Express for ~$20 used.
For example, a pair of Micca MB42x (I'd recommend the PB42x instead, but they seem to be out of stock), an SMSL SA-50 amp, and an airport/chromecast would be about the same as the lowest-end sonos setup, and sound a lot better. For your TV, you can use a receiver instead of the amp to switch between the Airport/Chromecast input and the TV input.
If your budget is bigger than that, then swap in a better pair of speakers. Your speakers determine 90% of the quality of your system, so spend the most on them, not expensive wireless solutions.
(this is very similar to how my house is set up, so let me know if you have any questions)
That amplifier is for cars. You want something like this. edit:formatting
With $1300, here is what I would do, assuming you are buying new.
Debut Carbon Esprit SB $599
ELAC Uni-Fi UB5 $399
Yamaha RS202 $130
Schiit Mani $129
I agree, get a pair of the Fluance SX6 with an amp like the SMSL SA50 or the Lepy if you don't want to go over budget. This combination will blow anything else for 200 dollars out the water. You could add a subwoofer somewhere down the line as well.
I would get an amp and passive speakers. Studio monitors for casual use make barely any sense for most people. The JBL 305s sound decent, and then you get to run a power cable to each speaker, some kind of dongle to switch your unbalanced output from your motherboard to a balanced input (even though the signal will not be balanced at this point), then each speaker has a volume knob...on the back, so you're setting and forgetting those and have to do all of your volume control in software. They're just inconvenient, also their enclosures are garbage (on the 305 and 308 anyway)
If it was me, with a $300 budget I would track down a decent integrated amp and bookshelf speakers locally on a site like USAudioMart or Audiogon and post about them here to get opinions before pulling the trigger.
If you don't want to frig around with haggling and want something new I would just get an SMSL SA50 and some Elac B6.2's while they're still on sale. This also gives you the opportunity to upgrade your amp or your speakers down the road if something comes up.
On this sub, most of us are going to recommend passive speakers, and a amp/preamp or receiver. The reason being, that it gives you more options in the future; Once you've made the decision to come to a reddit sub and get recommendations, chances are at somepoint in the future you're going to want to upgrade the performance (whether that's when you move into a new house, need a system in a different room, or just get bored and have money burning a hole in your pocket).
So, that being said, start with the amp. If you're short on space, some small class D Tripath style amp is what you'll want: pretty much anything by SMSL like this guy. But, if you have the space, I'd go with a really receiver like this onkyo mostly because of the method it uses to power the speakers (a/b class) and the LFE out for a sub.
Now for speakers, I'd check out Elac, like these B6's
Adding a sub will be big too, but it can be added later if you still want more base. You can also check craigslist, you can often find great deals on home theater receivers with obsolete video components (but great for audio still), and sometimes good deals on used speakers or subs.
well to start, those are crap speakers either way. two 3.5" woofers means they will have zero bass, which completely defeats the purpose of tower speakers
second, you screwed up by not doing proper research. most speakers (aka passive speakers) have wire terminals where you connect them to an amplifier
you can buy a cheap amp on Amazon for $20 which will work. but my honest recommendation is to sell those speakers for whatever you can get and getting these Dayton bookshelf speakers and this Lepai amp. it'll sound better than those 'towers' and take up less room. yes, it'll cost a bit more (depending on what you can sell the Monster towers for), but if you plan on listening to anything bass heavy, you'll appreciate the better quality speakers (note: yes I know the B652s don't measure anywhere near flat, but for a layman, they're a good first step)
This would be much more rewarding than messing with those old ones. C-notes or classix II will sound better than those ever could.
C-notes
Classix II’s
Suitable amplifier
This thing looks promising. I'm a fan of Yamaha receivers.
This one also looks like an option. Onkyo is a pretty solid brand.
Excellent input- I completely agree with JohnBooty's assessment of the OS sound. Definitely not for home studio usage.
As far as amp - unless you're pushing them super hard, (since you're in nearfield) you can go with a SMSL amp. Good price, decent build quality, and it should hopefully free up more budget to spend on speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465509439&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier+smsl
I really like my SMSL amp for my OS MTs hooked up to my desktop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It's Class-D so very efficient and small. Pretty good price and comes with a decent external power supply. But for the $65 price you won't be getting any extra features on that model. Just RCA in and binding posts out, which is perfect for my setup.
"I cannot send it via Bluetooth or through my wireless network"
If the reason for this is "because my receiver does not have Bluetooth or Wifi" then this would be the solution to that problem
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I59VBH4/ref=psdcmw_10110414011_t1_B01944DUWM
Get something like this and avoid Onkyo.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463512037&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+2020
the mb42x is like twice as good as the mb42 do not buy the mb42
A "vinyl player" is referred to as a turntable or record player. I can't tell you what table to buy because I'm not that familiar with newer quality tables but I can tell you to avoid Crosley and sub-$100 players with USB built in. For not much more $ you can get a better item used. Also be sure to get something with a replaceable cartridge because you will need to replace it eventually. Unless your planning to DJ you can probably save a bit of $ by going belt drive as opposed to direct drive. If you have a local record store take a look at their used equipment. Also whoever is working there should have good advice as long as you tell them a price range. Keep in mind you'll need something to send the audio signal to as well. That will vary in cost. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467417822&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stereo+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch. Some folks may think it's a bit of a joke but it satisfies my needs. It powers my speakers, fills my house with sound, and has an EQ.
I think an amp and passive speakers would be the best. The RCA would plug directly in the amp.
Check out /r/zeos for a decent overview.
I am looking at getting the fluance sx6 ($100 after coupon), and. $70 amp shortly. You may be able to get away with cheaper speakers such as Daytons or Micca.
Edit: I am just starting to learn about audio setups, if I said something wrong please correct me, I want to learn.
There are no professional reviews on the fluance sx6, they do have grew reviews on amazon / other retail websites. I have the original EMP tech 5.1 system. I will do a comparison of the EMP tech speakers to the fluance for my computer setup, and get back to you guys. This will be after Xmas though.
Edit 2:
By the way, the amp I will get is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/
And the guide I would look over is: http://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/2dk676/guide_stereo_20_21_systems/
This is probably the cheapest you could go new while avoiding the crappy Lepai amps and such. Depending what the used market is around you, you could potentially find something much better.
You'll need RCA cables (if the turntable didn't have them already) and speaker wire.
I would recommend that or this above anything made by SMSL. The quality is leagues better.
That player should have a preamp if I remember correctly. So all you would really need from there is a receiver and speakers. If you get a receiver with a phono input, turn the preamp off on the record player and make sure to use that input in the back. If it doesn't, you'll need to turn the preamp on.
Here's what I mean, this receiver has a phono input while this one doesn't (at least it doesn't list one and the back inputs don't say). I'm not saying buy either of these or that they're great cause I really don't know, I'm just using them as examples.
You'll hear from a lot of people around here to look for vintage equipment. I would agree with that. In that case you'll want to scour craigslist, ebay, garage sales, etc.. You can probably get a great vintage receiver for ~$50 (not sure what that is in pounds) if you do some looking. Just don't expect HDMI inputs and the like.
For speakers there are a lot of options. Don't cheap out and use crappy speakers. Buy some nice bookshelf speakers; I say bookshelf speakers instead of floorstanding speakers because those seem to be the most used for a 2 speaker set up. I'm not sure what brand most people use around here. I have some Yamaha's from the 90's that I absolutely love. Vintage speakers can also be found for less than new speakers.
But what receiver and speakers you should buy really comes down to what sound and usage YOU want. A 2/3/4/5 speaker set up? Subwoofer? Do you also want to use your receiver for your computer's and/or TV's sound?
I bought these a few years back. Turned me into a huge Sennheiser fan boy. The comfort and durability alone are notable. Add-in that the sound quality brings you into the realm of audiophile-grade and you have a huge reason to buy whenever they go on sale.
I have the 558 in my laptop bag for gaming on the go, a pair of HD518 for use with the Vive, and the Massdrop HD6xx on my main PC setup.
I've been wanting to grab another set for work, was hoping to grab the 598 and "complete the set." But this is tempting.
-----
I use the following replacement cables with mine:
Along with this compact budget DAC/Amp for the 558 (Schiit Stack for the HD6xx):
You don't want to plug a splitter into 2 separate sources, you'll get grounding loop issues - at the very least static hiss you can audibly hear. If it's purely for gaming, look into a simple cheap but proven device like the Syba Sonic dac/amp that can power a 58X just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Digital-Headphone-Amplifier-Coaxial/dp/B009WN7QT4/
Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 24bit 96KHz USB 2.0 as recommended by Zeos. Has all the output you'd need at an affordable price. And I'm not sure if it's a fact or not but Syba Sonic is referred to as the OEM for Micca Origen.
Have it on my desk right now. Cannot ask more for a $38 budget DAC/Amp.
yes, you need a pre-amp. any will do for now.
this guy did me well starting out, no complaints.
ART DJ Pre II. Adjustable gain and a subsonic filter. Generally considered the best phono stage until you hit the $200+ mark.
https://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPREII-Audio-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482
For $10 over your budget, I'd suggest this;
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Little-Bear-Turntable-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B075YQM28P/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075YQM28P&pd_rd_r=a55e9663-c5fc-11e8-a9f9-45c00ac54db7&pd_rd_w=il42v&pd_rd_wg=ZIGqR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=ZR0971SVJMV8BPR9P1B1&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=ZR0971SVJMV8BPR9P1B1
Tubes do something really wonderful with vinyl. And even though this is pretty much a solid state preamp, it does use the tubes as a buffer which get you most of the sound.
> Harmon Kardon AVR1510S
That model does not have a built-in Phono preamp. You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482
In my opinion, you should skip getting a cheaper USB table and go for something a little nicer. You'll have to throw more money at it initially, but it's worth the investment.
For something cheap, go to Craigslist. Find a Technics or Sony for cheap and replace the needle/cartridge on NeedleDoctor.com. You'll be happier with that. Trust me, I was in your position a few years back and made the mistake. The Ortofon Omega is a solid choice for a lower-end cartridge. Sould be able to get one in the $30 range, which is very inexpensive when it comes to phono cartridges.
If you want to go new, look into the Pro-ject Debut Carbon. MusiciansFriend.com always has discount codes around to help lower the price. I'll be upgrading to one shortly.
If you don't have space for speakers and a receiver, you can pick up cheaper phono headphone preamps all over the internet. I don't have experience with this one in particular, but it seems to be decent on a budget based on the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Outputs-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381253872&sr=1-3&keywords=phono+preamp
Yes, you will need a phono preamp with an Orbit Plus and your receiver. I recommend this one. It is very highly regarded in audiophile forums in its price range. I would not recommend going any cheaper.
That receiver and those speakers are perfectly adequate to get you started, both are considered good entry-level options. Pairing a subwoofer with those speakers will provide a marked increase in sound quality on the low-end. I would recommend doing so. I recommend this sub, as it is a fantastic value and will serve you very well.
Here is some information about hooking up a subwoofer to a stereo receiver that does not have a dedicated subwoofer output. Hint: just use speaker wire in the "B" terminals.
Looks like you have yourself a decent starter setup which should serve you well. Have fun.
EDIT: get your speakers off the damn floor. Either get some stands or a platform to isolate your turntable from vibrations caused by the speakers if you want to put them on top of your shelf (platform probably isn't terribly necessary with bookshelf speakers unless you play your music very loudly).
> SX6
@ZeosPantera, took your advice and bought instead of the audio engine a2's I bought the http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC along with the Sx6 speakrs. I also have a modded odac (jdslabs / mayflower o2 amp) which jdslabs re-integrated for me, and the audio is phanominal.
DIY is what I do... here's what I would part together for a $150 budget.
SMSL 2x50W Amp:
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
Dayton B652 Speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
5A Battery:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=16770.html
Instructions:
http://imgur.com/a/Qgmay
This would be better than anything else for the price!
This comes in at $500
Or substitute the Ascends for these to get it down to $370
Are you in a metro area where craigslist is an option? At that price point used speakers make a lot of sense.
link to local craigslist if you want help.
Small cheap amp at your price point, i think this is the go to around here:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC but obviously only has one input.
but obviously there are other options.
Do you have someplace to tuck a subwoofer or does that blow your definition of small?
What kind of music? priorities? Clear? Loud? Accurate? Bass?
Does your record player have a built in phono amp, or do you need a receiver with a built in phono stage? if you don't know give model and brand of record player.
$60 Dayton B652 Air Speakers
$70 SMSL SA-50 AMP
Decent starting point, can tweak this setup with better passive bookshelf speakers and different size/make amps. Can also pair later with active subwoofer for real bass.
Well, I did the best I could. I ruled out bookshelves since you said you had the room since bookshelves in this price range don't do so well with "loud" without causing distortion and hearing damage.
So, here are some options. Get one thing out of each section. Try to spend as much as you can on the speakers.
Speakers
BIC America Venturi DV64 x2 (~$250)
Infinity Primus P363 x2 (~$350)
PSB Alpha T1 (~$400)
Integrated Amplifier
SMSL SA50 (~$75)
Emotiva mini-X a-100 (~$190)
The following aren't necessary to get things working but you should add them when you get the cash.
DAC
schiit modi 2 (~$100)
This connects your computer to the amplifier. Without this, you just use a male 3.5mm to rca stereo cable.
Subwoofer
BIC America F12 (~$190)
You connect the amp's outputs to the speaker inputs on the sub and then connect the speakers to the sub's speaker outputs.
If I were you I would start out with the PSB speakers and emotiva amp (if you can afford the ~$600) then add the sub when you get more money. The DAC will sound better than your computer's sound card and reduce static and interference from your computer.
I'm on a tighter budget than you, but I just set up a nice little system with a SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier and a set of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers without a sub. Add a sub to that you'll have a nice sounding set-up under budget that should last you well beyond your time at college.
In addition to this subreddit, here's what I used for guidance:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/66ylk9/guide_speakers_2021_desktoproom_systems/
and
https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3uoksp/i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/
For considering which sub you want:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3w9tdw/i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_subwoofers/
and
https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/5b1u99/guide_subwoofers/
If you sign up for promo codes for Fry's and check every Sunday, the SP-BS22-LR Pioneer's can be had for $62 as they seem to go on sale around once a month. Actually if you can get a promo code from someone today, you can order them this evening at that price. Even at $129, they're considered a good value.
Pricewise you'd be looking at: $62 Pioneer SP-BS22-LR + $69 SMSL SA50 + $180 for the ELAC S10 or something comparable + $30 for speaker wire, plugs and cables to connect to your source and $341 total
This will be plenty loud to fill any dorm room (and drive your neighbors crazy if you're not careful) with much better sound quality than a soundbar or a 2.1 system like a Klipsch Promedia 2.1.
As for the bluetooth, buy a separate bluetooth adapter. You'll have more utility that way rather than buying one that's integrated into your receiver or amp. This way you'll only need to upgrade your bluetooth receiver when bluetooth is inevitably upgraded in the next few years. Your receiver and speakers can last you decades.
I have these speakers. All you need are an amp + copper cables + Banana plugs (optional, but worth it).
I recommend this amp: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482259592&sr=8-1&keywords=SMSL+50
Lepy 2020 is basically the cheapest worth bothering with.
I've got an SMSL SA-50 and I really like it. Feels nicely built and such.
SMSL SA-50 or SMSL SA-60 would be good bets for lots of power for your money.
$67-$80, so quite a bit more than your Lepai.
Strictly speaking, wattages and THD are a good guide for figuring out quality, but are certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. Knowing your brands and trusted opinions are better, listening to it yourself is best.
The link in the sidebar has some good ones.
I'm actually in exactly the same position as you at the moment, I'm considering this one as it's the cheapest (50w per channel, ~au$80 delivered), but apparently this one is much better even though it's only 30w per channel and is $20 more.
Or then again I could anticipate future upgrades and just go for this yammy amp which is 100w per channel for ~$190.
I really like that Denon one you've posted, though. Decisions, decisions.
Selling my SMSL SA50 for $55 shipped (USA only).
Currently on Amazon for $68.
Purchased in April and used with my Pioneer BS22's. Like new condition, placed back in original box. Selling since I'm switching to active speakers.
You are a bit squeezed in but a set of Micca X's should fit on those little shelves. A decent T-amp like the Muse M50 or this will power them very well and then grab a sub like the Dayton-1200 or the more compact Martin Logan Dynamo 300. The hookup would look something like this(minus the dac unless you need one)
I'm not sure about best buy maybe check out their subs, you could crosscheck prices on subs/amps on amazon to best buy's prices. I'm about to drop a couple hundred on a 2.0 setup and buying a sub later on. These are the speakers I'm getting (and were recommended to me on this subreddit) Fluance SX6 with this Amp
Imgur will not allow me to put links in the description so here they are.
My POV video - https://streamable.com/4ifrl / https://youtu.be/I38L0Bf0B40
My inspiration for this project - https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/5lnmja/i_made_a_raspberry_pi_spotify_jukebox_with/
Here is a list of everything that I bought online:
Dayton Audio RS722 Speaker w/o Cabinet https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs722-speaker-kit-w-o-cabinet--302-857
Lepai LP-2020TI Amp - https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
Amazon Basics Bluetooth Receiver - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Multicolor Strip Light Controller from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Multicolor-Strip-Light-Controller/dp/B007RGRJ36
LED Strip + 12 V Adapter from Supernight - http://www.supernight.cc/supernight-5m-waterproof-flexible-strip-300leds-color-changing-rgb-smd5050-led-light-strip-kit.html
3 Plug Power Strip from Parts Express - https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-3-outlet-strip-with-3-ft-cord-ul--125-406?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072 :)
I think it might but if it doesn't this can get the job done. Might find it cheaper on eBay if you're willing to wait for it to be shipped from China.
Your best solution is a new TV (instead of a 'monitor' like the Marantz).
Your second best solution is:
http://www.channelmaster.com/Digital_TV_Hub_p/cm-7002.html
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Hook up the Apple TV HDMI to this box, and the this box via HDMI to to the HDMI splitter. From the splitter, HDMI cable to the Marantz monitor and Toslink to the speaker system.
Your third best solution:
Buy a $30 Iview or Homeworx TV tuner from amazon & a cheap used AV receiver from Amazon or ebay. It can accept multiple HDMI inputs (from the tuner and the Apple TV) and can separate output video the Marantz and audio to the speaker system.
AV receiver: https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A3213035011%2Cp_36%3A1253506011
I have some experience with this. Original hookup was
Roku ---[HDMI]--- TV (Sharp) ---[SPDIF]--- Soundbar (Yamaha)
The problem with this setup was no matter what I set the delay to on either the TV or the soundbar, the sound was always out of sync. The soundbar didn't have HDMI input, and the TV only supported Dolby Digital whereas the Roku and the soundbar supported DTS. So, I bought one of these and it solved all my audio issues.
EDIT: if I upgrade to a Roku 4, it has SPDIF out, so I won't need the extractor anymore.
HDMI audio extractors exist, I use them in projector installs quite often where we need to split off an analogue audio signal to go to a PA system without a reciever. They have the DAC built into them and most can downmix 5.1 to stereo, some can convert to pro-logic for connection to older surround systems without digital inputs.
You just need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor cable to connect to a 3.5mm input.
ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor | Optical Toslink + L/R Stereo Analog Converter Outputs | Model: VHD-H2HSAs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bWrYBbHE8J0FQ
This is what I use. Works great.
You could also use an HDMI Audio Extractor to send the audio to speakers that accept optical or RCA stereo (or minijack, with an inexpensive adapter)
They make HDMI audio extractors. You can find them on Amazon.
ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor | Optical Toslink + L/R Stereo Analog Converter Outputs | VHD-H2HSAs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-uh.wb9PTD9CY
How old is your tv? Most tv's made with 5 years will pass surround out via optical, unless it's a cheap model.
Here is an audio extractor.
I think a [HDMI audio extractor](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wZGOzbXHRRJM2) is what you are looking for.
No... Your projector needs to be on for that to work.
But you can plug the Chromecast into your AVR (if compatible) then out of your AVR to the projector.
Or, get a HDMI audio splitter... it's a passthrough box.
Chromecast ➡️ HDMI splitter ➡️ HDMI cable to projector, audio cable to AVR
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072
So this is how i have mine set up.
iPad mini 3 128g>Lightning Digital AV adapter>HDMI cable>HDMI to Optical Converter>12V to 5V converter>Optical Cable>Alpine PXA-H800/RUX-C800>Alpine PDX-V9>Alpine SPR-60c>JL HO W6v3 Wedge
I have the hdmi converter plug cut and soldered to the stepdown voltage converter which is soldered to the back of the 12V Cigarette lighter all heat shrinked wrapped. The HDMI cable is extra long so i can have the iPad to the passenger seat comfortably. I did have a lightning cable extender that worked for a while but it suddenly stated that this cable can no longer be used for this device so i had to bring the AV adapter outside of the dash so it looks a little weird....but what are you gonna do.
As long as it sounds good i dont really care.
The RUX-C800 remote for the H800 is installed below my console near the gearshift in my Honda Civic 2009.
The installation took a bit of time since i couldnt leave everything undone because i had to drive it but i saved a whole lot of money.
At the moment i just have a magnetic holder stuck in my cd player slot to hold the ipad. I will be getting a prefab console ipad installation kit when i have the time to do so.
I was also able to leave my back speakers connected to the stock radio if i would like to listen to the radio for sports talk.
You have a few options, the PS4 can output audio from 1) HDMI 2) Optical 3) 1/8" Jack on the PS4 controller.
If you're just playing yourself and you want to use headphones, just plug it into the jack on your controller. If your setup allows you could run an audio cable from your controller to speakers also, but that's a bit janky.
If you have separate speakers and they can take in digital input (optical) then you can use that directly.
If you have speakers that can only use analog audio input and you don't want them hooked directly into your controller then you have to get something that splits out the audio from the video from HDMI. This was the cheapest I could find: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
I have one of these, http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
I think it does exactly what you're looking for. I needed it because I had a very nice flat panel TV that only had a DVI input and I needed a way to get the audio out of the HDMI that was coming from my source device so I could plug it into the TV.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBHX072/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463682276&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=viewhd&dpPl=1&dpID=415sEjTUBYL&ref=plSrch
That's the wrong cable there buddy, it's toshlink to toshlink mini not 3.5mm jack, and the adaptor cable is 3.5mm female.
Try something like this instead if your speakers use stereo analog etc.
You can pick up a bluetooth transmitter that plugs into the audio jack. I've got one, works okay. A little volume and audio loss, but listenable.
An adapter would work just fine. You can many adapters which are small in size and very portable. Here is one example from amazon usa : https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Connected-Transmission/dp/B00P24XKS8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494343119&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+to+bluetooth
buy a Bluetooth transmitter like this
You will need an amplifier like this.
That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).
You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.
So standard pinball cabinet: Playfield space is 20.5 inches wide. Back box space is 28.5 inches wide.
This backbox TV:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-32-class-led-720p-hdtv/5747454.p?skuId=5747454
Mounted with this mount:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RN77YL6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
DMD screen is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB17E0Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Playfield TV:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-40-class-led-d-series-1080p-smart-hdtv/6288347.p?skuId=6288347
Speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N8265I8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
My computer only has optical out so I need this adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
If you don't require motion sensing nudging or a analog plunger you can get a simple keyboard controller like this:
https://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html
Buttons like this:
https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-h-concave-short-stem-pushbutton-blue/
Couple of ground wire harnesses like this (you'll probably need two):
https://www.focusattack.com/30-connection-22-awg-187-ground-daisy-chain-wire/
And some .187 quick connect wiring:
https://www.focusattack.com/16pc-22-awg-wire-with-187-quick-disconnect/
1 1/8 inch spade bit to enlarge or add cabinet button holes:
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-SPEEDBOR-Blue-Groove-Spade/dp/B00004YOAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+1%2F8+spade+bit&qid=1569174093&sprefix=1+1%2F8+sp&sr=8-3
After that it's just assorted HDMI cables, USB Extension cords, a computer and a partridge in a pear tree. I keep my computer outside of the cabinet in case I want to use it for other things and keep the heat out so my cables are long. The TVs don't generate much heat. And currently I just turn the TVs and computer on manually.
I built my own speaker grills out of foam board and acousticly transparent cloth.
In the $20ish range, I have several of these. They're great for road trips, immensely improving the motel experience. I've also sacrificed a power cord so I can hook it up to a car battery, as it's 12 volt, so handy for car camping, too. Of course, you'll need speakers, but they aren't terribly expensive, either, and you can often find used ones at thrift stores. I keep a suitcase ready for travel with these and some rope lights, it's awesome.
Honestly build your own set.
I took this: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478870107&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp-2020a
And added in some older sony bookshelf speakers I had and it outperformed my old Creative/Logitech sets. I like the ability to adjust the bass/treble directly on the front, and I screwed the amp to the underside of my desk to be hidden, and I can still reach under and turn the audio up if need be. It also gives you the ability to connect whatever the hell speaker you want to it... Any two wire bookshelf/tower/desktop speaker you can find.
Things you'll need:
I should have done this years ago instead of going through as many speaker setups as I have and not being happy with them. I have a 5.1 polk system for my TV that I pieced together, and I listen to most headphone audio through my HD595s or Klipsch s4i earbuds. Audio is pretty important and this setup was ideal for cost/quality.
you can get a cheap pre-amp. i reckon you'll find one for like $30-40. it'll be a piece of shit, but it'll allow you to get use out of a vintage TT considering your active monitors (which I presume have a line in?) for now.
EDIT - even cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A - again, not vouching for the quality of this, but it'll be a better stepping stone than the LP60.
I dug out my dad's old Technics SLB30 over the weekend, and its currently being repaired. While I wait for that, I want to start assembling the rest of the set up.
So far, I've chosen the recommended beginner setup on a budget from the sidebar (Dayton speakers, Lepai Tripath, DJPRE). I noticed that the DJPRE II preamp is now nearly 50$ on amazon though. I did find this guy (Pyle PP999)on Amazon, and was wondering if anyone has any feedback on this preamp. The reviews seemed promising, and I figure I could upgrade at a later time if I want.
I love my vintage gear, but there is nothing wrong with his amp, and there are a ton of decent cheap phono amps out there.
​
It will be hit or miss finding decent vintage equipment for $200, unless you are lucky or know what you are doing, & his Yamaha should put out a clean 80 watts per channel. I'd suggest a cheap amp for $20. He could easily wind up with a downgrade in sound by blindly picking a $200 vintage unit.
​
I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.
What you need:
Here's how it works:
Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.
Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.
Before doing that, make sure your turntable has a preamp built in. If it doesn't, you need something like this to make sure it doesn't break your shit.
Had the same turntable. The built in pre-amp isn't great. If you get a preamp (like this) the sound quality would be a lot better and you won't have to have your speakers on blast.
you need a stereo receiver and 4 speakers, thats it.
this will do:
http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-AW150WH-Indoor-Outdoor-Speakers/dp/B0001VHARE/ref=pd_cp_e_0
These general consensus is these are going to be a better bang for your buck.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-FS52-Designed-standing-Loudspeaker/dp/B008NCD2S4
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484676180&sr=1-1&keywords=denon+receiver
As far as sub goes. These cheaper reccomended are:
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484676249&sr=1-1&keywords=dayton+audio+sub-1000
https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484676267&sr=1-1&keywords=bic+america+f12
or my personal favorite:
https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html
There are other brand like Chane and HSU that get great reviews as well for speaker/subs.
Here’s one I just found that does what you said on 3/5 HDMI ports
Denon AVR-S510BT 5.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAO43YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tJNIAbA37WB5G
This is my first attempt at building a home theater. I built the acoustic panels and the DVD door myself. Everything else was done by best buy. I have everything running to a small room behind the couch which I control via a harmony hub and an echo dot.
All lights are "smart" and can be individually controlled by the echo dot.
My setup:
Projector:Epson home Cinema 2150
Screen: Silver Ticket 16:9 120" Grey Screen
FL and FR:Micca MB42x
Center:Micca MB42X-C
Rears: Fluance AVBP2
AVR: Denon S510BT
Sub: 10" Dayton Audio Sub-1000 (x2)
​
Please let me know if you have any suggestions!
​
​
L/R: ELAC B6
Center: ELAC C5
Sub: BIC F12
Receiver: Denon S510BT
Speaker placement can be hard to figure out, but that all depends on the space. 3.1 is fairly easy even in small areas. I had a small living room and this worked out great for me.
When a better idea of the space you have, I could give you a build on what I'd do based on your budget.
Sure dude. Here's the links to the stuff you see. Nothing special honestly :p I have a TEAC tape player and a Pioneer Spinning 5 Disc Player but I left it all at home. And I only have 1 set of Dayton Audio speakers with me that are on my desk off to the right.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008872SIO/ref=psdc_3003611_t2_B00P9W6SUK?th=1
I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting: https://www.techradar.com/news/best-turntables
Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.
Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.
Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)
Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49
Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99
Subtotal: $450.41 plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D
Why not both?? I collect CDs and records with my own personal sound system.
Get yourself a receiver. This is what I own. You can plug your PC or use bluetooth to connect devices to it, so stream, CD, or anything. And your turntable can plug in directly if you have a built-in pre-amp (see below for options/suggestions).
Get some bookself speakers. I own these and are good for their price, but BE CAREFUL. The receiver is pretty powerful and you risk blowing out your speakers, so don't blast it at 100 for like 48 hrs straight. These are the tower versions.
Turntable time!! Most people bash on the Audio Technica LP-60 for it's tracking force, lack of counter-weight, and speed and such but it's a decently priced TT with a built-in pre-amp for starters. Willing to spend more? Audio Technica LP-120 is fantastic. I own one.
Lastly, just buy an artists music, and support them, and that is what satisfies me.
Yeah I came from headphones and I know for a fact not all amps are the same. So I figured it would be the same story for speakers.
I read something along the lines that the rb42 should be paired with an amp that is 80 wpc at the minimum to get a proper sample of what they can really do. And maybe that could explain how you say anything you hook up to the DTA sounds gutless in the bass dept vs the reviews I read for the rb42 saying, "Wow, bass!" I didn't get that that "wow."
I kind of want an all in one solution for speakers and headphones, hence the DTA-120. Do you think something like this could solve my problem? Providing the right amount of power and also having a headphone jack? I'm a noob to reading power levels and just need some guidance.
Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_stKFDb05G85A8
Deal for a REFURBED PAIR(so 2 speakers)
LINK FOR DEAL AT JBL(gets remmoved by bots since jbl not recognized as safe)
black
Sound Demo and review.
Need an amp? search for a used Yamaha R-S202BL or mini amp . 1 premade speaker wire.
For a receiver, you could look at the Yamaha R-S202:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU?th=1
Bluetooth built-in. Plenty of RCA inputs for other things. Can drive four speakers (zone A and zone B simultaneously). Brand new for $130.
Yamaha has a decent reputation for building good receivers. It's a simple stereo receiver without a lot of bells and whistles. Interface is pretty simple also. I just bought one of these to drive 4 speakers (Yamaha NS-6490) in a small/medium sized gym for a friend. Affordable, easy to use, does what's needed and nothing more. There are other options (of course), but this was a good solution to what I was looking for. Might work for you also.
Could have gone with a small integrated Chinese DAC+amp (e.g., SMSL AD18), but I was worried about sufficient output power and the overall robustness of the system. It will be used by various people, some of whom are not particularly tech savvy (you should have seen they way they tried to connect up the speaker wire to the receiver when I accidentally left them unconnected after some maintenance, oy!). So I wanted all of the robustness and niceties (e.g., solid big remote, instruction manual, tech support, warranty I can trust, etc.) of buying a "real" receiver from an established company.
I'm assuming you only need stereo and aren't intending to setup some kind of outdoor home theater with a 5.1/7.1 speaker setup.
You need either an amplifier and some passive speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537714163&sr=8-2&keywords=yamaha+rs202bl+stereo+receiver
and:
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1537714213&sr=8-8&keywords=bookshelf+speaker
or some powered speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537714213&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bookshelf+speaker&psc=1&smid=A23AS8PFN4IRUQ
By hooking them in to a receiver, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
You'll probably always find cheaper vintage/used stuff but here are a few quick amazon buys that would get you up and running. Nothing spectacular but nothing shitty either.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8020-channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504977819&sr=1-3&keywords=stereo+receiver
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504977819&sr=1-4&keywords=stereo+receiver
These are speaker posts, for passive speakers. To connect a line-level signal (what's inside your RCA cable) to speakers with this kind of connection, you'll need an amplifier.
the SMSL amplifiers (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC) are a popular inexpensive choice
Do yourself a favor and skip the Lepai. The SA-50 is a bit better.
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.
You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):
https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B
Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y
I am running the Fluance speakers you are asking about, and a Lepai 2020+ amp. The amp is obviously the limiting factor in my current setup. I would have to give the nod to a 50watt or more per channel amp if I wanted to fill a bigger room. Zeos likes this one, and I plan on getting it when some money comes in. http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC
Both speakers are around 90db, but i'd also have to side with those saying the Yamaha's are your better bet.
Tower speakers are a good option but you can get a lot of sound out of bookshelves.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
+
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
I have a receiver, but you'd be fine with an SMSL SA-50 with 150s.
Just my opinion here, but class-D amplifiers have gotten good enough and cheap enough that there's no real reason to DiY amplifiers if your sole goal is bang for the buck.
Here is a nice amp that's probably better and cheaper than anything you could make yourself.
Yes, you'll need an external amplifier. A receiver will have an amplifier built in, but if you're not fussy about the audio quality, a little class-D amplifier like this works well for cheap.
I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.
3.5mm to RCA cable
Small Amplifier I've used before
This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k4PDCbWXQ8RZK
These have been getting some good user reviews lately and a nice price too, and a pretty small cabinet for a 6.5 inch woofer, 79.99 / pair: 2 Pack 6.5" Bookshelf Home Theater Speakers 100W RMS TP160S-CH DCM by MTX Audio
As for amp's I have two of these (on two different computer systems), Dayton Audio APA 150. This is a serious Class A/B design topology, but no frills, just a well built, serious, "old school" heavy amp. No remote, no DAC, no Bluetooth, but WOW, a really nice, serious, amp! Lots of good user reviews and recommendations all over the net.
A often recommended smaller digital amp S.M.S.L AD18. This one DOES have it all, remote, DAC, bluetooth, relatively small, great reviews all over the net.
If you are really on a budget, try something similar to Lepai LP-2020TI Digital Hi-Fi Audio Mini Class D Stereo Amplifier. Do some searches for tweaking this amp, a very simple way to improve this amp, is to buy a more powerful power brick. There are many versions of this type of amp, amazon, ebay, parts-express, look around.
The other two, often recommended, "great value" speakers that work well with a computer (but you will need an amp), are the Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair). I have seen these on sale for well under 100/pair, from memory, in the 60's and 70's.
Another great value is the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8” x 12-9/16” x 8-7/16” & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz). Again, search around, these do go on sale for well under 100.00.
I have both the Pioneer and the Sony, and I currently am using the Sony SSCS5 with the Dayton Audio Amp. Was temped to buy the DCM, but I have to stop buying "great value" speakers. If I ever want to upgrade my computer speakers, I should save up and buy the Ascend Audio Luna Reference Ribbon Mini-Monitor.
Good luck, have fun, and Enjoy!
That is pretty general and not very helpful.
Anyway, after further searching the web it looks like these type of speakers where used in a Sony CMT-GP5 system.
Specs here: [https://imgur.com/a/EN3W5wZ]
So I guess an amp with less than 30W per channel should be fine (or even more if you're careful to not turn it up all the way I assume)
Something like this maybe: [https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Lepai+LP-2020A%2B&qid=1571864431&sr=8-4]
Going to try something in this direction, maybe it helps someone, cheers.
Can you guys look this over and make sure I have something worth buying? I have about $1000 to spend on a 2.1 setup for a computer desktop setup.
KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers
SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier
Then finally one of these three.
Klipsch R-100SW 10" Subwoofer
Klipsch R-120SW 10" Subwoofer
or
Klipsch Reference R-10SW 10" 300w Powered Subwoofer
Also would I need to buy the speaker wires to set these up or do they come with wire?
I bought the SMSL AD18 just this past weekend and I really like it. Powers 45W at 8 ohms, I also have those Polk s15’s and it works well with them. In addition, the unit comes with Bluetooth, a sub out, and a variety of different inputs with the built in DAC. Even with $25 shipping to Canada it comes in under budget for you:
SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jsfaCb0RG097B
SMSL AD18 might be of service
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B00UGYFWQC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?psc=1
That should do it, and it will take the HDMI splitter out of your setup. You could get fancy and grab a NAD 3020 v2 as well.
For reference, if you're looking for a "cheap" solution for a way to get sound out of the computer, and all you're doing is mixing, look into a DAC/Headphone Amp combo. I have interfaces with inputs in my practice space for tracking, but I just have one of these guys on my desk at home that connects to a USB port. If you end up getting nicer headphones down the road, it'll still work as well.
The XB950 is only good for one thing: bass
A DAC/amp wouldn't change the fact that this headphone sounds like ass.
The HD598 has been discontinued and is not easily available anymore, the newer version HD599 is still pretty expensive.
If you want a great sounding headphone and a DAC/Amp to use at home only.
will cost you roughly the same as the new HD599, but you will get a lot more bang for your buck
I'm also relatively new to all this -- I used to just have my Sony MDR-7506s plugged into my computer and for the most part that's 90% of the way there for me. However, the headphone out jack on my motherboard recently started having intolerable noise, so I had to do something to deal with it.
​
I started with the Fiio E10K (https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-ICP-AT1000-Headphones/dp/B076DVBNRP/) which I got primarily to avoid the line noise, and it powers the HD 6xx just fine (I got that pair of headphones around when I got the Fiio). I brought the Fiio to work and replaced it at home with the more powerful Massdrop O2 + SDAC (https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-o2-sdac-dac-amp/) which is ~2x the cost of the Fiio. I honestly don't know that I can tell the difference between the two setups, or say that one is qualitatively better to my ears than the other for either the MDR-7506 or the HD 6xx. In retrospect I probably would have been about as happy just getting a second Fiio.
​
In your case, as Roppmaster said, I'd just go ahead and test your new headphones with your motherboard. If they get loud enough, don't have any noise, and sound good to your ears, then you're all set for now. If any of those things aren't true, then you can probably start with either the Fiio or the one xehpar recommends since that's also pretty affordable (https://smile.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF) and either of them will get the job done for you. I got the Fiio because I have their Bluetooth adapter and it's worked quite well for me so I feel comfortable with their products, and it's well-reviewed; I didn't come across the other one but on paper it has better specs than the Fiio. (The Fiio is smaller, uses micro-USB and draws its power from that without needing a separate power brick, so it's better for e.g. a laptop. It also has 3.5mm line out and headphones as opposed to the ports on the FX Audio, so depending on your equipment one or the other may be more convenient.)
Cheap but not bad: FX Audio DAC-X6
Cheap with mic but never tried: Syba Sonic
Expensive but good: Mayflower ARC
If you get the money (like $70) in the future and want to go even further. Separate your sound source outside of your computer case with something like this.
​
I've been using the FX Audio DAC X6 + Beyerdynamic DT770 (cuz office environment) at work for years, my brother uses one as his main setup. Its seriously fantastic for a crazy cheap price and honestly its helped cut out a lot of issues I've had with motherboard-attached sound.
​
At home I've got a Schiit Mjolnir and Gungnir and I've got the whole setup hooked up via balanced XLR cables (gets rid of grounding loop noise) and I've got a 4 pin balanced cabling for all my headphones. Even thousands of dollars in, I really enjoy my current setup at home, but honestly its been severely diminishing returns since my 598s + FX DAC X6.
Personally I wouldn't waste money on them with the 4xx . I have a SMSL 793ii and it barely powers the 400i's or the Sundaras . To get good results get something with a watt or higher . I use a FX Audio DAC-X6 with the jumper mod . For 65 bucks , it's the cheapest unit I could recommend . Especially if you have optical or coax outputs on your computer . If not , the DAC-X6 has a usb input also . https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF
If you like Sennheiser then the 660S are pretty good. Only 150ohms so they are much easier to drive. (compared to other 600 series that are 250ohm)
660S
I would still recommend getting a dac/amp because that will usually make a difference over a direct plug to the motherboard. Something cheap like the FX Audio Dac X6 would be a good starting point.
The Beyerdynamic DT1990 get very good reviews for open sound stage:
DT1990
These are all around the $500 mark and will be a huge improvement over your old ones. These are also open back.
Im sure others can list some other options.
Agree with the above comments re: good pair of headphones vs gaming headset. You’ll get better sound game / mic going this route. My current set up is as follows and it’s the best sound experience I’ve ever had ( if you don’t mind a few cords): Audio Technica AD 700x $100 + ModMic 4 $55 + Y split cable $15 to plug into the 3.5 mm port on your controller. The above is all I really needed to play but last week I also grabbed this Dac Amp. $65 and the whole set up sounds even better and doesn’t drain my controller’s battery life.
Here's one stereo amp
A more expensive option
A really cheap option, won't get super loud due to only having 20wpc
Hello everyone, so not too long ago I bought a turntable, pre amp and an amplifier. Recently my preamp died and I wanted to upgrade to something that includes both the amp and a preamp. I'm not very familiar with this kind of equipment so I was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction as to what to look for. Below I have linked all the equipment that I have. So basically I want to replace the amp and pre-amp with something that can do both. Also I'd prefer for it to have an aux chord option as well. Thanks for all the help!
turntable:https://store.uturnaudio.com/products/orbit-plus-turntable
preamp:https://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPRE-II-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1473115290&sr=8-13&keywords=preamplifier amplifier:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 speakers:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RMPHMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have jerry rigged plenty of turntables up for sampling so... let's see what we can do here...
(1) Pick up a used turntable from your local craigslist or used electronics shop (follow the guide or post here for recommendations). Depending on your location, $100 will find a basic vintage turntable. Make sure you get a new stylus, maybe even a new cartridge depending on what you want to do. If you want to do backcueing, starting and stopping on the fly, or scratching, get a DJ-oriented cartridge. I recommend the Shure M44-7, it's a workhorse and widely available, you can even pick them up at Guitar Center if there is not an audio shop around you. Runs about $60-70. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT backcue, start and stop on the fly, or scratch with a regular cartridge. You will fuck up your stylus and your record.
(2) As long as the 2i2 has a built in preamp (not sure if the mic preamps on it will work for all turntable--see comment below) all you need to go from your turntable to your 2i2 are adaptors that go from RCA to 1/4 jacks that you can then plug into your 2i2. You can pick them up at Radio shack or order them online. You can use a regular RCA cable and then use these RCA-to-1/4 adaptors, they are like $3... Radio shack will have them if you don't want to order them online. You could also pick up a RCA-to-1/4 cable, these are more expensive and I would just go with the first option as it also allows you to use better cables, but that's up to you. These are your cheapest options to get you started. The best way to sample is to run your turntable into a dedicated audiocard with RCA/phono jacks on your computer... something to think about in your future.
(3) If the mic preamps on the 2i2 do not work or sound weird because they do not have RIAA equalization, then you might need a phone preamp amp. The cheapest one that gets recommended around here is the ART DJPRE II which is $50. You would hook up your turntable to the preamp and then run the cables with the adaptors mentioned in (2) to the 2i2.
(4) If (2) and (3) don't work or seem like too much you could always pick up a preamp with a USB output. I know that there is the ART USB Phono that has built in USB output for $80. I have not used this and cannot comment on the sound quality.
Good luck.
You need a phono stage between your U-Turn and your receiver as your receiver lacks one.
Basically, the phono stage amplifies the signal from your cartridge and stylus, without it, you won't hear anything.
The cheapest recommended option is the ART.
http://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPRE-II-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482
I have one for a spare table and it's fairly decent, especially for the price.
Take a look at the ART DJPRE II or the Pro-Ject Phono Box MM. I don't have experience with either of those, but they are pretty popular.
Out of the ones I've seen recommended in this sub:
> "I just need something."
> "I want something decent."
> "I want something really good."
***
I've personally had my eye on a Schiit Mani but might save up for a Tube Box S. I play guitar so anything tube kinda draws me in. I still need to mod the preamp out of my LP120 so I don't fully know how well my Klipsch's preamp is performing. If it's good enough then I can save up for the Tube Box S.
Art DJPre II
Pyramid 12v DC power supply
This combo was recommended to me a while back. I am quite happy and probably won't upgrade until I'm ready to drop $1k on a preamp.
Speakers should be most of your budget as they have by far the biggest impact on sound quality. I built my entire system for around the same amount, and incidentally also considered the RP6.
I went:
:edit: Keep your Yamaha, it puts 90W at .09% distortion into 8ohm and looks from the spec sheet like it can handle 4ohm loads as well. You will be fine with that amp driving anything but the most demanding speakers. Your amp also has airplay built in, which is incredibly useful when you have friends over etc.
I'm looking to purchase my first setup. This is what I've come up with based on recommendations mainly from this subreddit:
TT: U-Turn Orbit basic
Preamp: Art DJpreII
Amp: SMSL SA60
Speakers: Micca MB42X
Does anyone have any advice on additions/subtractions to this setup? My concern is that I'm unable to listen to these components in person and I've only experienced vintage equipment. I really enjoy that 'warm' sound from what I've listened to previously. Will that be lost with all modern equipment?
Thanks in advance!
My listening taste is wide ranging, heavy on classic rock/jambands:
Steve Miller Band - Pink Floyd - Phish - Grateful Dead - Gorillaz - Radiohead
Yes. And with a TT as good as a P2, you need a decent phono stage.
The ART DJPreII seems to be the entry level fave.
If you buy a vintage amp or receiver, it will have a phonp stage built in - and it will likely be quite good.
Don't cheap out. The P2 is a good bit of kit. Make sure you're hearing it to it's full potential. Don't cripple it out of the gate with a crappy phono preamp.
I’d probably just get a preamp with adjustable gain if it’s really bothering you. Something like this: ART DJPRE II Phono Preamplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJR482/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ovn9Bb6DVF97D
The preamp only modulates the signal from your turntable to something your amp can pick yo, it has nothing to do with the amplification of your speakers. I guess running it through an amp then connecting that to your Connect would accomplish essentially the same thing, but with a bunch of extra equipment designed to push speakers you wouldn’t need if your only goal is to increase the turntable signal.
That being said adding the amp would allow you to add some nice bookshelf speakers at your turntable and use that as an additional spot in your sonos network...
Don't pay too much attention to a phono input. You can get a quality pre-amp for ~$40 (though it drops down to under $35 regularly.) https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500051123&sr=8-1&keywords=dj+pre+ii
I've already been told I need a phono preamp. Do I need anything else? A receiver, or another amplifier? A: You will need either a receiver or amp also.
This is the exact pre-amp and amp I bought and they work really good for starting out.
How can I tell what quality my needle is in/whether I need a new one? A: the quickest way is to set everything up and play a record you don't care about. If it plays good then you are set, if not then you will need a new cart probably, these typically come with a new needle.
Kind of along the same lines, how do I make sure the needle/tonearm is correctly balanced? A: look up the manufactor's tracking force for that cart. then use one of these to see what your tracking force is. You'll adjust the tracking force using your counter weight. Also your anti-skating force is typically the same as your tracking force, but check your manufactures specifications. This video will show you how to adjust your cart so it track right across the whole record.
If you need a new cart, either ask here after you get done testing the one on it, or google Sanyo TP 1010 cartridge replacements. I personally am a fan Shure carts and needles.
I hope this helps.
This is mine. Me like.
You'd probably have a much easier time finding what you want if you figure you're going to do the phono preamp separate. I'm not familiar with any sort of swiss army knife reciever like what you're looking for. For $50 you can pick up the ART DJpre II, which should be more than adequate. As for the receiver, I'm sure someone else on this sub will know better than myself, I'm not as familiar with those larger amps.
I have an SL-B3 (belt driven, but similar to the D3) with a M97xE, and I'm very happy with how it sounds. Unfortunately I currently don't have a way to hook up my Q701's to it so I can't comment on the sound signature with them combined. The Vali will probably add some nice warmness to the sound so my experience would sound a bit different anyways. I'd imagine it will sound pretty good though :)
I don't think you can go wrong with either the 2M Red or the M97xE, I've heard people say that the the 2M has a brighter sound, while the Shure's high's are rolled off. I can't say I've ever been able to hear them side by side though to confirm this.
And yes you will need a preamp to boost the turntable's phono output up to a line level signal. The ART DJ II is pretty good for the price.
I recently upgraded from an LP60 to a LP1240 (secondhand) and I've been seriously underwhelmed and am having problems.
The LP60 sounded crisper with cleaner sound which shouldn't be the case for a much more expensive table with a cartridge costing more than the previous table all together.
The 1240 wasn't nearly loud enough so I had to add a preamp, I know there is a built in one but after trying every possible Line/phono config it still was't giving me the volume the LP60 had.
Also I am getting a loud hum which I can't seam to figure out. I attracted a ground wire from the turntable to the preamp which reduced hum but is still prevalent. I'm almost positive this hum is stemming from the turntable itself as when I used the LP60 with the amp there was no hum whatsoever and the hum is still there when the preamp isn't connected.
Video of hum
Setup:
Turntable
Amp
Pre Amp
Headshell
Cartridge
Speakers
​
​
Have you bought a pre-amp. A lot of the old recievers had amps installed for turntables, but the new ones do not. If you can barley hear it, you should get one, it was the issue w/ mine, and now it works perfectly.
You can find them at Sam Ash, or Guitar Center. Looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419267386&sr=8-1&keywords=pre+amp+for+turntables, or this: http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419267386&sr=8-1&keywords=pre+amp+for+turntables
edit: nevermind, saw that you have a standalone console...
It isn't the speakers. If they sound okay with your iPad, they should sound okay with the turntable. If the tt RCA cord is removable, try a different cord. Also, make sure the record you are using is in good shape, or try another one if you can. Another option is to plug some headphones into the amp, and see if that reproduces the crappy sound. Lastly, you can spray de-oxit electrical contact cleaner onto the phono contacts to clean them. Let it dry (a few minutes tops) and try again. If your phono input is dead, you can get one of those external phono inputs and run it through an aux or tape input.
Jim knows what you're looking for, OP.
I've found the parts you'll want to get as well. It's definitely a real budget set up, but it'll get you started.
Phono preamp
Patch cable (from phono to iHome)
Just plug the turntable into the phono input, then use the patch cable to go from the phono's output and into your iHome, and you're good to go.
Keep in mind the DAC on the YU4 is through optical, if you don't have an S/PDIF output on your mobo you'd have to pick up a budget audio interface, something like the Syba Sonic would be sufficient:
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about the YU4!
Don't go with internal sound cards. Your PC is hell when it comes to audio because of all the electricity going around to all the components. Internal solutions are completely outdated and will be noisier with lots of static.
If you have no need for any professional inputs (XLR, MIDI, etc.) I recommend either the Syba Sonic DAC-Amp on the cheaper end, or the Sennheiser GSX 1000 on the pricier end which does a lot the more "premium" settings other cards do on-board (no drivers needed) which is largely just EQ anyway.
> if enable the checkbox to hear your own mic in windows I hear the background noise too.
Enabling additional processing for stuff like this will always result in some unwanted noise/feedback, in my experience. I would recommend turning all that shit off. Unfortunately, mic loopback isn't included as a standard function when you use a non-gaming headset. It's something that's often built in to the usb soundcards or technology most gaming headsets come with. There is a cheap DAC/AMP combo that includes this feature though. It appears as an option under playback device properties in windows and works pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4
Also, having open back headphones helps lessen the need for mic loopback since you can naturally hear yourself talk a bit. Closed back or noise cancelling headphones give you that "ear plugs in" effect that makes it very hard to hear yourself without mic loopback.
Have you seen this one before?
​
Syba Sonic Amp/Dac
Might be a grounding issue. Make sure all the cables are all the way in and in the right spots. Also make sure you're using the cable that splits the mic and headphones since iirc they come with both a mobile and pc cable. I doubt that it's an issue with your mobo powering the headphones, but a solution to both the grounding issue and powering would be either the Creative Sound Blaster E1 or the Syba Sonic DAC/AMP. Both of these should be more than enough to power Game Ones and they both come with separate jacks for the audio and mic which would solve grounding problems.
Just get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WN7QT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The controller output is limited (the mic should be fine though). I have literally the exact same setup but you're going to need an external DAC/amplifier if you want your head to rumble with sound. I have one from SMSL and then plug the Modmic into my controller with a y splitter. The cheapest one recommended by the mod here I see is the Syba unit (this one has mic input too):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009WN7QT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525879626&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Syba
Use the U.S site if you're located there.
College kid here, I'll try to help out.
It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.
You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.
 
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Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's
>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.
This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?
 
Amp: SMSL SA-50
>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.
Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.
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This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.
So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.
It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.
___
In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.
I don't know much about DACs but I have seen this one and this one recommended multiple times.
They are a bit pricey compared the one you sent though. And the second one can't work on your motherboard since the mobo doesn't have an s/pdif output.
Looks like the SMSL SD793-II PCM1793 DIR9001 DAC
So from my limited understanding of audio equipment I know that a DAC simply converts the digital signal from the computer to an analog signal for the headphones (a separate DAC helps the most with isolating the signal from interference from the computer). If you think the sound coming from your headphones is too quiet or lackluster what you really need is an amplifier to make the signal stronger, or a DAC/amp combo.
Two DAC/amp combos I see recommended often are the
Fiio E10K
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_8bEeAb0CH5BW4
SMSL SD793-II
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ldEeAbHJ9PS48
Both have a DAC to isolate the signal and an amplifier to power higher end headphones.
the SMSL SD793-II is an option, it's a good DAC/Headphone amp for the price and probably outperforms the E10k. costs about the same, recommended by ZeosPantera However, if you don't have SPDIF (either TOSLINK or Coaxial) then the DAC in this amp is useless to you, as it doesn't have USB input. you can still use a 3.5mm to RCA plug and simply use it as a headphone amp if you wish though, if you need USB input then the SMSL M3 may be a good option, though it costs a little more, again well recommended by ZeosPantera he compares it directly to the E10K so the video is worth a watch if you are considering both.
Check our /u/zeospantera reviews at /r/zeosreviews , I bought one of these based on his recommendations (plus loads of other things) and it works great with my Sennheiser PC 360's , but check out his videos and find what suits you, also check out /r/headphones but the short answer to your question is yes it is worth the quality as with the dac alone it will be much better.
If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.
For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.
If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.
Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.
You want a headphone amp/dac that can accept SPDIF input.
​
Not sure what "on the cheap" is in your world but $75 to $100 is that general range.
​
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD-793II-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM that is about as cheap as you'll find.
60$ dac/amp from smsl. I've heard pretty good things about it.
Dude, holy shit! First and foremost, thanks so much for typing all that out. You didn't have to, but I'm very happy you did.
I've been reading ad-nausaem about audio and how it relates specifically to gaming. Certain things like sound clarity, minimal bass, and soundstage are very very important. I've found lots of little nuggets of information which have been GOLD and sound advice, much like the ones you wrote out.
But you know whats the crazy about all of this? The dire distinction and SPLIT ideology of the differences between DAC's and soundcards within the audiophile community. One side swears by a DAC/AMP combo like the ODAC, other side maintains that a soundcard is still optimal and more than sufficient.
This has been one of the few instances where the more research I did on a topic, the deeper my hole went and the more confused I got.
I decided to put the Astro Mixamp aside for a moment. If you don't already know, the Mixamp I'm using is the 5.8 Wireless version, I was somewhat skeptical about how the audio would sound traveling both wirelessly and through optical out. So I hooked up my headphones directly to my onboard and holy shit, it sounded BETTER than my Mixamp. I wouldn't say night and day but DEFINITELY noticeable.
At this point, after watching numerous videos displaying sound stage and clarity like THIS and THIS, and seeing how great the clarity with onboard is as opposed to Mixamp, I decided to drop coin on the Sound Blaster Z. I got it for $55 because of Black Friday. I was definitely NOT disappointed. SBX makes a huge difference and as gimmicky as it may sound, Creative's "SCOUT MODE" turned out to be awesome and actually expands the sound stage and lowers bass. Incredible.
The sound card has an OPT IN/OUT so if anything, I can simply hook my Xbox or Playstation up to it via OPT IN and use the Creative soundcard properties for surround sound gaming and completely bypass the Astro Mixamp all-together. Didn't even think of it before.
I've got the Sennheiser HD598 and will be getting the AKG K7XX (that recently showed up on Massdrop) so I ended up getting a headphone DAC/Amp, THIS one specifically as it was mentioned by /u/ZeosPantara of being great. I feel a bit stupid because as you probably guessed it: I don't need a DAC, I would just like the headphone AMP'd as I will be using my soundcard as the DAC itself. I'm going to be going OPT OUT from SOUNDCARD to DAC. My question once again is: Do you think it'll retain all the surround sound qualities that it did when I was plugging my headphones directly into my sound card, things like SBX and Scout Mode if I went through SPDIF TOSLink instead of 3.5mm AUX?
If not, then I will simply either return it (or sell it) and start building an Objective 2 Amp :)))).
Seriously dude, its crazy to think where I am NOW in relation to audio fidelity and where I was a year ago. Back then, I thought the Astro Mixamp was the be all/end all of sound clarity. This is very exciting stuff!
Also, have some Gold. ;) Thanks buddy!
This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.
Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).
I just picked up these after a lot of research. Pretty blown away by how good they are. I use them in my pc setup so for both music and games. I often just sit here listening to music before playing anything. They can get really loud without any distortion.
These are powered so all you'd need is passive interface to connect them. Such as a DAC. I use this one and optical to my computer.
If you're patient, these speakers can be had for around 80-90 a piece decently often. They show up on slickdeals here and there. Got mine local on letgo for 100 barely used ;)
Okay, before you buy any of this, please find out if the monitor has a headphones jack. Most monitors these days do, if it does you can just plug it into it, the HDMI cable will carry audio to your monitor. Otherwise, yes, you've got the right parts as long as it isn't a PS4 Slim. also, consider an AMP:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is working perfectly with the original PS4 and PS4 Pro and really makes my AD 700's sound amazing.
You said "used", but didn't provide any Craigslist or local links, so can't provide info on used gear, but here's something that ought to keep you happy:
Total: $495 or $510, depending on whether you're an Android or iPhone guy. Your next purchase after you have a couple of hundred bucks extra would be a DAC (see below).
Since you have no gear currently: Ignore a turntable completely. For an actual pleasing experience, you'd blow through over half of your budget on it.
You're not saying whether you own a usable DAC, or what your TV is, but as long as your PC or TV doesn't sound terribly noisy with headphones today, I'd ignore a DAC for now. If not, you'd get good returns by stretching your budget a bit.
> Found this on groupon
It has seven more channels of pre-amplifcation than you need, and five channels of power amplification you don't need
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S201BL-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00F0H88SY/
I am currently in a cramped living situation so I have a similar setup. I have my Pro-Ject Debut III ran to this pre-amp which is ran to my home theater receiver
Not the best setup in the world but it works well for the time being. The pre-amp does its job and the receiver actually has some nice sounding music EQ's as well.
When I first started collecting I was gifted an ION USB TT and I was told to get a better TT so I do not further damage my records. So I upgraded the TT. While the setup is not ideal, it is listenable and I am not damaging my records while building up my setup.
Without knowing what turntable you're talking about, nearly all turntables need some kind of amplifier. You're probably asking whether or not you need a pre-amplifier, and in that case the answer is probably. A handful of turntables come with built-in pre-amps, but most don't. If you do end up buying one, the ART DJPRE II is consistently rated fairly well, and it's worked great for me. No need to spend a ton of money on one.
The Audio Technica is a great turntable! But the build in preamp and the fixed cable would be an absolute no-go for me. So I'd definitely suggest you getting the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon. I have the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit myself, and I love it!
As for the preamp: There are lots of great preamp, like the NAD PP 2i, Cambridge 651P or Musical Fidelity V-LPS II, but I think those are a little bit too expensive for you. Maybe you should take a look at this one. It's definitely not the best, but ART usualy has some great value for the money.
Why do you need a built in preamp?
A decent vintage turntable + this will be a lot cheaper/better than the LP120
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E?ie=UTF8&keywords=phono%20preamp&qid=1462321051&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7
I've just got into vinyl, this is the set up i use
You can get cheaper ones, but you want to stay away from ones with built in speakers!
You need the pre amp before you plug it into your external speakers otherwise it will be very quiet due to low frequency :)
Good catch! I forgot to take a photo of that. I'm using this Behringer preamp. http://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E
I would be very hesitant about running something as weak as a phono signal that distance. At very least make sure you use a phono pre-amp near the turntable and plug into a non-phono input at the receiver. I would consider something like a Sewell Sound Link - but I'd definitely use the phono pre-amp before sending through that and use the non-phono input on the receiver.
​
The extender:
https://sewelldirect.com/products/sound-link-al10-rca-3-5mm-over-cat5e-6-2000ft
There are obviously much better phono preamps - but this would be bare minimum.
https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_6
Something like these would be better:
https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamp-Output/dp/B007DB5I60/ref=sr_1_14
or
https://smile.amazon.com/Schiit-Mani-Phono-Preamp-Cartridges/dp/B07P8WYX6N/ref=sr_1_11
About a month ago I decided I wanted to upgrade my system.
I was using the Monoprice 25 Watt Hybrid Tube amp hooked up to their 4-inch 2-way bookshelf speakers. I then had an av selector a friend gave me that allowed me to easily change inputs between a projector, for watching movies, and my TurnTable. The TurnTable was connected to a Behringer Microphono PP400 phono preamp and I was using a Kenwood KD-52FB TurnTable with a Sumiko Pearl Cart
My new setup (which unfortunately can't be ideally setup for listening to music) is now using the Cambridge Audio CXA80 integrated Amplifier, a pair of Amphion Helium410 bookshelf speakers, and a U-Turn Orbit Custom. My custom has the upgraded Acrylic Platter, the Grado Black Cart, and the cue lever, I also choose the white color to match the speakers. I am still using the Behringer Microphono PP400 phono preamp in this setup, but that will also be upgraded sometime soon.
One last addition that you see and is less relevant for this sub, is a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ which I wanted a housing for so I ended up buying this kit, which came with some other useful stuff so heh. On the Raspberry Pi I installed Volumio so that I can conveniently play all my digital music easily as well.
Anyway that is my new setup thanks for reading!
If you plugged in the turntable to find that it wasnt loud enough chances are it doesnt have a phono preamp. Luckily there are some like This one that will run you about $20 and get the job done. (While there are better ones out there one like this will get the job done and let you listen)
Thanks for you input. So if I understand you correctly, I the setup will be: Turntable > Preamp (like this one?) > Behringer ACU202 Audio interface > Raspbery Pi > Sonos (in my case)?
​
Edit: its a present for my dad and I am trying to figure this out, please don't mind my ignorance :)
I've used and like this one, but this one is popular, as well. I have no experience with the later.
That's the platter. They normally have a rubber mat on them. Damp lint free cloth can clean it easily.
Yes, if you don't know how long it's been on it, replace it.
If you don't have the money, getting the Behringer or Pyle Phono preamp is sufficient. They're pretty cheap on amazon.
If you can swing get the art dj preII.
Here's a $20 option, and here's a $40 option that I'm currently using. If you want to spend more you can. Up to infinity.
Knew it looked familiar it's a rebrand of this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314663706&sr=8-1
Cheap, mine hummed but it put out some decent sound to my 5.1 phono-less receiver
Turntables produce very low output, and need a preamp to amplify the signal to line level as well as to undo the RIAA equalization curve. You're going to need one depending on your turntable, some of them have built in phono preamps. The Schiit Sys is basically an input switcher and isn't what you need. You're going to be looking for a device called a phono stage or a phono preamp. Some examples:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E
https://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPRE-II-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamp-output/dp/B007DB5I60
If the piece you found was a preamp, great. It sounds like that's whats missing. If you didn't find a preamp, try one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E
http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482/ref=pd_cp_MI_2/177-5917930-5097810
http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus/dp/B000BBGCCI/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
I got this guy : Behringer Phono Preamp and it sounds great! It doesn't have any background noise or hum.
You'd be missing one of the channels, so if you have any stereo sound, it would be be missing either left or right channels.
In my opinion, the best places to spend money are the turntable and the speakers. You can get a basic preamp for $25 (http://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E?sa-no-redirect=1) and upgrade later.
New to vinyl here I bought a TT and a few records off a pal did some research and found out I bought a Crosley which from the posts on here is the worst thing in the world.
So I'm upgrading but finding the world of vinyl is quite daunting for beginners so I just wanna know if this setup would work:
Pro-ject essential II
Behringer PP400 Preamp
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qo6LybAZMA5PB
Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 Speakers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0019410ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pp6LybGBB45NB
Tbh the passive/active speaker thing is confusing me a bit. I have read the guides but need some help.
Thanks in advance guys.
Righto. So you will need an amplifier with a phono input and is kind of an odd form factor, or a separate pre amp for the turntable.
I'd see what you can find secondhand - something like a mid 90s - mid 2000s Pioneer, Rotel, Cambridge Audio, Marantz, Denon, Onkyo etc with a built in phono input.
New and cheap from Amazon options:
Cheapest amplifier that I'd buy but needs phono pre amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-black/dp/B0725PJQQV/
A step up, but still needs phono pre amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gemtune-SA-50-Amplifier-speakers-Adapter-black/dp/B00KBIV1WW/
Phono pre amp for above amps https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-PP400-Microphono-Compact-assorted/dp/B000H2BC4E
If you attach another sound source to the same mixer inputs do you get sound?
If so your type turntable might need a phono preamp. The signal from a record player needle is very quiet and needs boosting to "line" level. Sometimes you can just hear faint music. Does any of your other equipment have "phono" inputs? like an old hifi amplifier? You could use that or buy a box something like this.
I've used the mic preamps inputs on my soundcard to do Digital Vinyl mixing, but it probably distorts musical audio.
Preamp suggestions please as I'm going insane over getting something crappy... >.>
Here are 2 that I've seen browsing the reddit:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-Pp400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2
My powered speaker system has 3.5mm, so I was thinking of using an RCA to 3.5 (http://bit.ly/2rlrIw5 said I don't lose quality). Opinions on that setup?
Player -> Pre-Amp -> RCAto3.5 -> Powered Speakers
And which of the two preamps or other suggestions? Trying to stick under $75-100 and I'm not audiophile, but I definitely want it to be clear/no hum (as I've heard that in some Amazon reviews of preamps)
Also..Thank you for any help at all!! :)
I use this low-end preamp from Amazon. Works like a charm and haven't had issues with it. I use an old pair of powered Bose speakers with it that I already owned.
After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!
Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)
Speakers:
Sub:
Stands:
Receiver (hidden behind tv):
Cables:
Preamp:
You can't just plug a turntable into the lepai. You need an RIAA pre-amp in between the turntable and the Lepai. Once you have one you need to screw in the ground wire and connect the signal wires from the turntable to the pre-amp, and then connect the pre-amp outs into the lepai inputs.
Here is a link to an affordable pre-amp for your turntable:
Here is the reference for the original cartridge. If you were going to replace the turntable with a modern unit, you would need a preamplifier, like this. Your old Tele-funky has a "crystal" cartridge, and modern turntables use a "magnetic" cartridge which has a weaker output. The preamp will go between the new turntable and the Telefunken. You will also need a "DIN to RCA" converter cable, like this one.
I second the U-Turn. All you need is the basic. At least to start. You'll need a phono preamp too and I suggest this. 1/3rd the price of the one uturn makes and it does the job great.
The turntable is a nice choice, but please remember, that it is completly manual (it will run until you set it off by yourself).
The speakers won't work in this setup. You will also need a preamp, e.g. this.
That being said: I have the Behringer for my office and they are really not that good.
I would look for a stereo amplifier with a phono input and two passive speakers (maybe or most likely used).
https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481557302&sr=8-7&keywords=phono+preamp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXAEPDC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS
with this pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E
Oh okay, thank you. Is this what you're talking about?
Hey guys I'm in the market for a receiver & speakers (or preamp/amp)
My budget
For a receiver is >$100
For speakers >$250 (preferably max $200)
If I can I'd rather find a receiver with a phono input in it to save money for speakers.
Would anyone have a knowledge of these receivers I found on Craigslist and if they are worth the money asked?
If not what is a great sub $50 phono preamp? (sidenote could I use a FiiO headphone amp ( E10K/ E07K/A3) with speakers?)
From what I've read this ishat w was looking at:
As for speakers:
the following are all from craigslist
or would I be safer getting new and highly recommended JBL 305s
Preemptively thanks for your help!
Yeah, the passive preamp you have won't do the same job as a phono preamp. You can keep the passive preamp if you want it for easier volume control with the powered speakers, but the turntable needs to be directly connected to a phono preamp before the signal goes anywhere else. Do that and you should be able to use these powered speakers just fine. Something like this will do the job.
I don't know everything about preamps, but I've seen these two recommended for a budget:
TCC TC-750 Black $43.50
Behringer PP400 $23.99
I have your receiver and an Orbit Plus. Sounds great! Although I went with a Behringer PP400 as my preamp.
For a small space, those KEFs will sound great -
Many modern receivers still have phono pre-amps. That model doesn't though. You could always add one in-line, on the cheap. Depends on what you find for a turntable.
The Denon is a good start, I like Yamaha, myself. But honestly, you could even got down to a no frills Yamaha 2 channel, non-HDMI receiver for about $99 - but you want HDMI for your Fire TV box?
You could look at a Yamaha 5.1 AVR for about $220 ish (a little less if you get it from A4L)
The Denon x1400 is highly recommended here too - if you can get it on sale.
You can get one on Amazon
I'm thinking of picking up a Rega Planar 1 soon, I know you need a phono preamp to use it with powered speakers. I was going to get this one since it is cheap and cheerful. Is this one okay or would getting a more expensive one benefit the sound quality?
If I've understood what you're looking for correctly, you might want to look into getting a phono pre-amp and a T-amp. Topping, Indeed and S.M.S.L are all supposed to be pretty good, among others. They're all pretty similar. Even the really cheap Lepai Tripath sounds alright with an upgraded power supply, though apparently it feels much cheaper than the others. I'd go for one of the former.
This is just from some research I did a while ago though, in the end I never bothered replacing my massive receiver, so I don't have first hand experience.
The one I use with the same turntable and that's quite cheap (so you can upgrade later) is the Behringer PP400 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E
Basically, the sound coming out straight from the turntable is going to be very low so you need this to amplify the sound (and ground the turntable using the weird extra cable ending with a U). Then you can connect the output of the preamp to your speakers directly in order to test it (with a cable like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE
Depending on what you want to do afterwards you may want to buy an amp or a receiver or even powered speakers but I believe the sidebar has more info regarding this.
You probably need a preamp. If you aren't hooking the turntable into an input marked "phono" (AUX, line, are not phono) you need a preamp. To my knowledge, modern receivers don't really have phono inputs. BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H2BC4E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Yup... I bought one of these and it works just great.
You need a pre amp for that turntable to connect to that receiver. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451275158&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=preamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41Hpr79ilhL&ref=plSrch you need something like this to connect that turntable to your amp.
Edit: added link for component that is needed.
Hi there,
I'd like to upgrade my audio setup, which is OK, but not great. Here's what I currently have going on:
Turntable: Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon DC (Black)
Speakers: Audioengine A2+ Premium Powered Desktop Speakers - Pair (Black)
Preamp: BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400
I think the Pro-Ject is OK for me right now, but I'm thinking about upgrading my speakers, and potentially purchasing a receiver (as opposed to my preamp into speakers set up right now). I've started buying some cassettes, so would also love to buy a cassette deck at some point and also be able to plug it into my receiver.
Anyone have any tips? I am admittedly still a bit of a novice, so any advice much appreciated. :)
I also have a couple of these: Audio-Technica AT95E/HSB Headshell/Cartridge Combo Kit (AT95E Cartridge and AT-HS10BK Headshell) lying around the apartment. Is it possible to replace my Pro-Ject needle with one of these bad boys / if so, anyone know of a good explainer for how to do it?
Thanks!
You need a phone preamp (this boost the weak signal out of a turntable). The u shaped wire is the ground wire and will go on a screw on the phone preamp. They can be bought for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DopGAb95H4972
Hmm so RCA phono in and 3.5mm jack out.. The speakers are amped and have a volume control. So you need a phono stage cause all turntables need them to get your analog audio to line level. I assume you're trying to save money so we won't get serious. This Pyle should do the job
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B004HJ1TTQ
From the pyle you'll want an RCA Male to 3.5mm Female cable. This should do it.https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Stereo-Female-Plated/dp/B003L14XTOEDIT: OH looks like the Logitech speakers have an RCA input! So you don't need a converter. So this monoprice rca between the phono pre and the Logitech should work. Let me know if I'm wrong, cause if it doesn't have RCA input then you'll be going back to RCA to 3.5mm converter.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K
If you need the RCA interconnect between the turntable and preamp.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Ground-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80
Personally I'd get a good integrated like a yamaha, that's more in the direction of best way and hook it up to some nice floorstander towers or bookshelf speakers like Klipsch, Elac, and so on.
Thank you! That would make a lot more sense.
Would this be a good investment? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398041844&sr=8-1&keywords=amp
This is what I own. http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1398041891&sr=1-2&keywords=turntable+amp
This is as cheap as they get:
http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371145585&sr=8-3&keywords=pre+amp
I personally use a mixer a built in pre amp:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMX5U-Professional-3-Stereo-Channel/dp/B003G8V8LS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1371145712&sr=8-7&keywords=dj+mixer
First of all.... Your a saint!! I never expected someone to actually go on craigslist for me!!! Just one question though. The reason I spent so long on craigslist before was that I kept finding deals i thought were good, but finding the same product cheaper online. For example I found the wharfedale for 125$
https://www.ebay.com/p/Wharfedale-Sapphire-Sp-87-Floor-Standing-Speakers/1576240027
kEF for 111$
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEF-Q35-FLOOR-STANDING-SPEAKERS-MAHOGANY-FINISH-VERY-GOOD-ORDER-/273044768350
Is ebay still generally cheaper than craigslist? Or is there a reason I should use craigslist instead of ebay. BTW I think the klipsch look like best bang for buck I think....
Edit:
Also I have narrowed it down to between the Sony and Yamaha receiver. Both have used options for 78$ for sony
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B006U1VH2S/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
and also 125$ for yamaha.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01EMQI2CU/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
In your infinite wisdom is yamaha worth the extra 45$? Once again thanks for your first response.
I hate to be the debbie-downer, but a big part of the Bose sound is some very clever wizardry inside the box that no longer works --
They build their tiny speakers optimized for A) power handling, and B) minimal distortion, and usually end up with something that has quite odd frequency response.
Then they measure the transfer function of their little screech-box, and have their engineers build signal-processing to apply the inverse of the transfer function just before the amplifier stage in the central brain.
Along with some clever use of multiband compression using psychoacoustic tricks so that we hear impressive bass even though the actual electrical bass power to the speaker is limited, the end result is a speaker that measures and sounds like it has flat frequency response between say 50Hz and 18kHz, but only if the special brain is in the circuit in front of it.
r/audio has lots of people suggesting various low-cost "class-d" amplifiers, so if you want to try this anyway with something inexpensive you could get a bluetooth class-d or class-d amp with line-in and a cable to connect your phone to it -- just connect the stripped wires of the two leftish speakers to the "left" black and red "speaker" terminals and likewise with those on the right.
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/
You can add a subwoofer at a later date.
My friend has practically that exact setup and is very happy with it. If you just want a plug-and-play option, are putting this in a small room that won't make those little speakers sound tiny, and aren't the type to fall down rabbit holes, then you probably will be, too.
However, if you'd like more of an upgrade path, I'd recommend going with a cheap class d amp and the ever-popular Pioner BS22 speakers. A little bit more expensive than just the Edifiers, but in the same ballpark -- and gives you the option to improve any individual step of your chain down the road. Or you can go with a U-Turn Basic and use the money saved to buy something like an Onkyo TX-8220 which has a built-in phono preamp, tons of analog and digital input options for hooking up a TV, a connection for a subwoofer if you want the extra bass down the road, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sony+cs5&qid=1563810428&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M2WIJL2PC1PM&keywords=lepai+amplifier&qid=1563810359&s=gateway&sprefix=lepai+amp%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3#customerReviews
​
The Sony's are an amazing price right now. These two would only cost you $100 and will blow you away. I used to use this combination until I upgraded to a Yamaha AV receiver to replace the Lepai amp and added a center channel as well. It sounded amazing. There might be a better option for a $75 receiver to meet your $150 budget that might provide bluetooth but I'm not as familiar with anything else
i have these little guys under my monitors
micca covo-s
use this little amp and you're at like 65$
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214708&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp2020ti
Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u6YYBbWDTWW6Z
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lepai&qid=1557851029&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-AIR-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00NOA58RS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dayton+audio&qid=1557851046&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Get that amp and speakers if he doesnt have those things. All three is like $180 and then ya just need some cables.
Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.
If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):
Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supplyhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/(don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT
Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/
Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/
If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)
Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW
Those are some great speakers for that price without a doubt. Just about any speaker amp will be compatible but these are two often recommended starter amps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071FJF4FF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501417697&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lepai+2020a&dpPl=1&dpID=41odxvspp1L&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501417760&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smsl+sa50&dpPl=1&dpID=41vb56ZQUZL&ref=plSrch
For a desk setup you won't need too heavy of wire so this should be perfectly fine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t2_B01D5H8XOY
What about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8BFDC/
The TA 100 is actually s good option mentioned above. They currently have a factory refurbished sale and you can get it for $369
If you want to stay cheaper something like the smsl ad18 could work
SMSL AD18 HIFI Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pyp2Ab9F6RTC4
https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-Studio-805-WH-Floorstanding-Speakers/dp/B07JX4RJZP/ref=sr_1_22?keywords=floorstanding+pair&qid=1565389499&s=electronics&sr=1-22
https://www.amazon.com/S-M-S-L-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=AD18&qid=1565391351&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2ZH34L3MNE8PA&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySDI4VE1FODhQRDRXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzU1MDE1MU5FWjBFSTBTMVlQQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDI5MTExM0xIRldaVU5HMUE1SSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
We still need an actual dollar amount -
SMSL AD18 Compact Digital Amp - $144 -
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEooiaet9eQ
Well you can pick one up fairly cheap, the SMSL Amp tends to gets lots of praise around here.
https://www.amazon.com/S-M-S-L-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=amp+dac+stereo&qid=1569269603&s=gateway&sr=8-9
i mean this specifically
Some people think the THX logo is a tweeter. (The THX is not a tweeter)
Here's a review http://noaudiophile.com/Logitech_z623/
I don't like the z623 personally, the satellites sound thin and the subwoofer plays too much midrange.
If you think soundbars sound awesome then get a z623. $70 is cheap for audio with bass.
But if you're after better audio then we run into problems.
Some say the Edifier bookshelf speakers are good, The Edifier R1280T No bluetooth is currently on sale. I can't vouch for it for long term listening but I did hear one in person briefly in a store, sounded decent but unsure which model it was.
You can try a Voll 50 Passive speaker and hook it up with a SMSL Audio SA-36A or SMSL AD18 amp. You will need your own speaker wire if you go that route and it obviously all these audio components aren't cheap.
If you want to add a subwoofer in the future then the SMSL AD18 is the way to go, as it has sub-out.
TL;DR
Keep it simple with the Logitech and enjoy the bass or get serious and spend some more money.
Would I risk under driving these with this SMSL AD18 (80w /4ohm)? I often read that is worse that over driving. Would be for a desktop setup.
S.M.S.L AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zz3FDbZDRT4Z6
Ok, probably the perfect option for you then.....
Elac B6.2
Pioneer SX-10AE
Or if you dont have room for or dont want a full sized receiver you can just get a SMSL AD18
It's hard to go wrong with SMSL's amps. The AD-18 is on sale at Amazon for $130: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542854712&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl+ad18 (I don't see this on Parts Express.) I've got one, and it's served me well.
​
There's also the SMSL Q5. It doesn't have all the features the AD-18 does, like it doesn't have Bluetooth, and is 50w per channel compared to the AD-18's 80w. But it is $115 at PE: https://www.parts-express.com/smsl-q5-pro-stereo-amplifier-usb-optical-coaxial-dac-with-subwoofer-output-2x40w--230-210
KEF Q100s are on this weekend for $299. Pair that with a dac/amp (SMSL AD18 perhaps) and you’ll be rocking. It’s a bit over your budget but these speakers are usually $600. Also note these are often found in store for those prices if you don’t want to ship.
Here’s the SMSL AD18, another benefit is this does Bluetooth too...
SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lLW9Bb8MA65VS
I'm with /u/polypeptide147 on this. The more features, the more possibilities for noise, etc.
The cheap amps I own are all much more heavily affected by power noise, crappy audio cables, etc. The Lepai 2020ti handles it better than most. It also benefits from a good power supply.
For example, this line of amps are decent for an outdoor / garage audio setup, but I would never use one on a computer (speaker hiss, very noisy when idle). You're going to be much more sensitive to speaker hiss and distortion, along with many of the "featureful" amps having auto-shutoffs with a slight delay coming back on (causing the start of notification sounds to get cut off).
Edit: if you want featureful, I would go with something like the SMSL AD18 (no personal experience with them) or the Klipsch Powergate (What I'm currently using. See my comment here for some issues I have with it.)
I use an SMSL AD18 and it’s a beast of a thing for the price and size. Recommend. Over budget a little (£122) but could get from China cheaper.
SMSL AD18 HIFI Audio Stereo Power Amplifier with Bluetooth Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VJ.5CbN7XFNJ9
If you want to go as cheap as possible, the best solution would be one of the ubiquitous cheap phono pre-amps, and an inexpensive headphone amp (Fiio E6 or E11). Upgrade either of these parts as you see fit.
The only all-inone preamp and headphone amp that comes to mind is this Bellari.
Another option is to buy a vintage receiver or integrated amp that has a phono input and use the headphone output from that.
hmm it doenst look like my turntable has a pre-amp build in so it looks like i also need to buy that. Are there any well known pre-amp kits? I did some quick googling but I mainly found mic pre amps wich i asume is something completely different. maybe ill just order the pyle p999 and maybe ill later upgrade to a actual diy pre amp
thanks for your explanation about preamps
I have been reading a lot of posts on here and I am a little confused on what I need for a full setup. I am looking at the uturn Orbit (no preamp), the Micca PB42X speakers, and this preamp. Is this the right stuff and would I need anything else?
Thanks in advance.
Yes they are all plugged into the same power strip.
I've tried moving around the preamp while it's connected to see if it changes anything but nope :/
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A this is the preamp I have. Would connecting a ground wire from the turntable into the preamp help?
I'll look into isolation transformers.
Thanks!
{I don't know how to make that symbol for British pounds.}
I suppose you could do worse than a Pro-Ject entry level 'table for 150.
http://www.whathifi.com/review/pro-ject-essential
for the phono preamp, any of the external boxes like Pyle, TCC, etc. between 20-40
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pyle-Pro-PP999-Phono-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B00025742A/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
that puts you near 200 and leaves 100. I suppose you could just use your computer speakers til you can get something more robust.
Can't really get something worthy of the Pro-Ject for 100 in the powered speaker market, I think, but computer speakers will get you by and most people have those already. Need at least another 250-300 for a decent receiver and bookshelf speakers... or a 150+ for a decent powered monitor [as I imagine the M-Audios would be] set , so the initial outlay of 200 is a foundation for whatever downstream components you decide on
Well, that wasn't exactly successful. I got a Pyle PP999 and while it's definitely louder, it's also so distorted as to be unlistenable. The signal is far too hot, I believe. At this point, I want to throw everything at the wall and call it an art installation.
I'm gonna guess that doesn't have a phono input. Peek behind it, but I'd wager you won't find much of anything input-wise other than something for the integrated parts.
You can get a phono preamp on Amazon for fifteen bucks that should be all you need to bridge the gap between table and speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A
Okay:
This Monoprice amp/dac combo has a switch between the two (and bonus gain switch - may come in handy with different cans down the road) - the downside is it's not currently in stock but does have an ETA. The TC preamps seem to have some quality issues recently so I'd suggest going with an entry preamp like this.
Hook turntable to preamp, preamp to amp. Hook PC directly to amp. Flip between USB and AUX as needed - problem solved.
I just used a sony system I hadn't used in a while. Plugged my dad's old turntable into the TV/Video port using a Pyle Pro Pre-amp for $12
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025742A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey everyone!
I'm looking to spend about $300, but am open to spending up to $500. So between $200-500.
I currently have a AudioSource AMP-100, and am looking for a set of speakers to accompany it. I'll use this system for my computer, which I use to listen to music (typically electronic/indie), watch TV/movies, and game.
I would be willing to buy used, but am generally looking to get the best quality sound I can for the price!
If anyone has recommendations, they would be much appreciated. How would you get the most value out of this situation?
Gents, my brother is looking for some decent quality speakers for his turntable and asked for some help. He's got a $200-$300 budget in mind for the speakers. Also, he's got a Audiosource Amp-100 that he's is wondering if is worth upgrading. Thanks!
EDIT: I should mention that size is no issue for him, and that he's willing to spend a little more if the difference is really there.
This is a great company, I have a pair of their older speakers and they sound great.
Speakers: $344.50
http://www.amazon.com/SpeakerCraft-OE5-One-Outdoor-Speaker/dp/B0017LADVW/ref=sr_1_6?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1394418175&sr=1-6&keywords=speakercraft+outdoor
Amplifier: $100
http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418458&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ausiosource+amp-100
RCA Cable: $10
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418952&sr=8-13&keywords=rca+cable
Speaker Cable: $10
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419011&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cable
For Wireless music, Bluetooth receiver, $32
http://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Bluetooth-Receiver-System/dp/B009OBCAW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419052&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+music+receiver
Total Cost: $496.50
Here's what I would do to get a great sound system that will work for your ipod. This is much better than any ipod dock, but is not very portable.
The total is over $300 but will be much better than the bose system. You could find cheaper bookshelf speakers that will work too.
alight, I've got two suggestions for you. In both cases we're focused exclusilvely on watts per dollar here, so there's no bells or whistles on these things. You want to play the radio? use your computer. you want to EQ? also use your computer. Both of these systems can be enhanced with a sub and/or pre-amp down the road that will improve your experience. but these should work out of the gate.
Option 1: The amplifier is tried and true and speakers are very well reviewed. This system is upgradable later and should pack plenty of punch for a party.
Audiosource AMP100! $107.00
Polk Audio Monitor 50 $126 per speaker
Option 2: These are little outside of your price range, but I wanted to throw them out there as an option. You can think of these as the most kickass computer speakers ever. Completely self powered, just plug it into the wall and feed it an RCA or 1/4" input and you're ready to go. Since you're currently using a guitar amp I'm assuming that you're something of a musician, these would be great for a small home studio as well as in day to day computer use. They'll also definitely rock the house.
KRK RP8 $249 per speaker
Let me know what you settle on.
You likely need an amp of some sort. You probably don’t need a full stereo but the record player most likely has a line out that won’t power speakers directly.
If that’s the case, a simple 2 channel amp should do the job and would be cheaper than a full stereo setup.
I bought one of these cheap amps off Amazon a few years back to power some bookshelf speakers connected to my wife’s record player in her study. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6fNDAb9MNA0PR
Definitely search craigslist. I'm thinking more and more that what you really want is a good set of PA speakers. Carpet-lined, metal cornered, power-handling, indestructible PA speakers. In my old house (wasn't a frat, but very similar) we had Yamaha PA speakers run through a heavy-duty amplifier. The things were literally indestructible - I DJ'd on them for parties, and one (cheap old) amp blew before the speakers did.
Amazon will ship similar models to you pretty fast I think - maybe not to Canada, not sure - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=PA+speakers&x=0&y=0 - The Pyle Pro boxes look pretty good, and the 8" model probably isn't very large at all. 4 of those to cover both zones would be killer, I would think, and you could easily hang them from the ceiling if you had good mounting chains (yeah, make sure they don't fall on anyone).
After that, the amp is important. You could go several ways. My first suggestion is check Craigslist for a fairly high-powered Yamaha home theater receiver. I prefer Yamahas in general - they have great amps, very good quality for the price, and they're built to last. Other name brands will do as well, just look for decent features.
After that, you can probably just set them up as A and B speakers on the receiver, and use that to switch between them. I'm guessing you basically want the main room speakers for music, and the TV room for both music and TV, so that should work.
Do you need surround? There are some great stereo receivers that have multi-zone capability built in. Ex: http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX5502-Dual-Zone-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B000RGR50U . Otherwise a lot of 7.1 receivers have the option to run the extra channels as a 2nd stereo zone, that may work as well.
If you find yourself needing more power than a multi-zone receiver can handle, maybe a receiver plus an extra stereo amp for the main room, such as this guy: http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6 or even this one if you want to go overkill: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PTA1000-1000-Amplifier/dp/B0010K6TXQ . In order to hook up a solution like that, ideally you want a receiver with "pre-outs," as you'll hook the stereo front pre-out to the other amp. This also has the added benefit of being able to better control volume in each location.
Overall, just look for the heaviest duty gear you can find. Obviously you're not worried too much about quality, but you probably want it to sound decent - a lot of the DJ speakers will fulfill that requirement for everyone and will be able to bump it loud forever and not die, which is great. Amps can die if you drive them too loud, PA amps are more indestructible, but receivers will give you more control and will be easier to install and use. I'd basically go with PA speakers, a nice multi-zone receiver, and good mounting kits.
Also - Monoprice for all cables and wires, always: http://www.monoprice.com
If you already have this setup just stick with it. It's a fine starter setup. The Lepai amp is very good for the price. You can jump up to THIS or THIS, which I have and really like. For budget speakers check out THESE or the Miccas are a fine pick.
This setup you listed will play your albums. You can always upgrade down the road but you're on the right track for a budget setup. I would try to save up a little more but you've got all the necessary parts to play albums on a 2.0 setup. Oh you need speaker cables and RCAs but other than that you're good
I'd go this rout for versatility and the option to upgrade each component in the future.
Pioneer SP-BS22
SMSL SA50
$165 total
I've had the pretty common beginner setup for about 6 months now:
TT: AT-LP120 (built in preamp)
Amp: Lepai 2020A+
Speakers: Dayton B652's
I had noticed that my current setup lacks quite a bit of bass/low-range sound, resulting in a somewhat flat sound. I was considering upgrading the following:
Speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR ($129.99 on Amazon)
Amp: SMSL SA50 ($68.90 on Amazon)
Will I get a noticeable difference out of this upgrade? Or would my money be put to better use elsewhere?
I'd say save some money: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414978743&sr=8-2&keywords=SMSL+t+amp
Well there's a few options for you here. There's these, which I have a highly recommend. Fluance SX6. Or a cheaper yet still apparently great set of Micca speakers that are quite a bit smaller. These both require something like this to power it, along with some speaker wire and maybe banana plugs. You could also get some powered Audioengine A2
's. Those shouldn't require an amp. Overall I would highly recommend taking the plunge into quality sound equipment. I myself would buy the fluance one's again but it's up to you. The cost is most definitely worth it when it comes to these speakers.
What about this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107R150/Polk-Audio-R150.html?tp=186
paired with something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417036388&sr=1-2&keywords=t+class+amp
That way in the future, you're not stuck with some god awful looking shelf system.
Just plug in your laptop or Ipod.
Your gonna need an amplifier to drive these, amplifiers are usually designed to have the speakers connected via bare wire so you should probably just hack the connectors off. The Amp will have RCA and 3.5 mm connectors that you can plug into whatever source you want. Something like this is what you want: SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g9jJBb18QVYRA
That one looks like it has banana Jack's for the speakers which are also somewhat standard and you can get for a few bucks.
I do like that nobsound, I used one in my bedroom setup for a long time. With all the cables going into on both ends, cable management for a desk is not ideal, so I would not use it on a desk setup. It would work though.
I would try to spring for something like this micca origain, because of the connectivity options. If you can't swing for it, or you dont want/need the dac portion, I would use this Dayton, or this SMSL.
I would not get powered speakers. It limits your selection and complicates upgrading. I would get a little smsl amp like this
And some daton [speakers](
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651)
You might be able to find something used on craigslist or a thrift store but nothing new that has a phono stage in an amplifier. You best bet is a super cheap phone pre-amp and a cheap amp. Such as the following two items:
https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
If you just want to buy something, the SMSL SA50 is a great choice.
https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501903960&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl
It's well built, has plenty of power unless you're speakers have low sensitivity or it's a big space, and the audio quality is unsurprisingly terrific. Amps are pretty much a 'solved problem', and while you can deliberately color your sound with tubes and the like, simple and accurate amplification is pretty easy to achieve.
If you're set on Bluetooth and want a simple all-in-one setup get these.
However, I have to recommend the Chromecast Audio - so much more reliable than Bluetooth, better sound quality, and easier to connect to. I'd pair it with this amp and these speakers. If you're feeling adventurous go this route but you'll be happy with either coming from Bose.
You can sell the unused monitor on /r/hardwareswap to recuperate some cash. Even if you don't want to get rid of it, I'd still move it so there's space for the speakers and they aren't being blocked.
I just got a set of Kef LS50s for a desktop setup. I got a good deal so I picked them up without thinking how I'll be powering them. Then without much thinking I thought the PS Audio Sprout looked good so I ordered it off Amazon, as I'm looking for a clean/simple setup. It turns out it's a bit of a no-no and isn't a great product the more I look into it.
So what's the recommendation around the $500 mark for a desktop unit that I can use to power the speakers to play music off my laptop while I'm working? I'm willing to buy used.
Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
EDIT: I also have a Schiit Magni/Modi 2 Uber. Could I just use the preamp and hook it up to something like this SMSL SA50 or does the LS50 deserve a better setup?
It has a little amp built in, you can connect to computer speakers if you wanted. If you have no idea what you're doing just buy new:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-MULbHU8L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1PFNK0K8D8E94BQV287R
So I bought myself a teac tn-300 during a sale recently and I've been truly loving it along with the vinyl I have been collecting since. However it naturally makes me want to keep improving my system and I'm looking for a good starting point.
I have been using A bose dock by directly plugging into the rear input of the device. Works fine for the time being but it would definitely be nice to start thinking of getting some actual speakers and an amp.
Could anyone recommend a good starting point to look? How much money am I really looking at spending? I'd love to hear the recommendations for my situation.
Specs: The speakers would be mainly used to sound a 20x15 room.
considering:
http: //www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453818118&sr=8-1&keywords=micca+mb42x
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453820918&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+sa50
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453818118&sr=8-1&keywords=micca+mb42x
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453820918&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+sa50
thats all you need, it is one of the "proposed budget systems" regularly suggested on r/audiophile and for good reason, those micca speakers have good sound for not much money. and that amp powers them just fine
If you want more powerful sound you would have to spend more money but that setup will blow your bluetooth speaker out of the water
Those are regular passive speakers. They do not contain an amplifier (hence no power cord or batteries), so you will need an amplifier to put between them and your laptop. The amplifier makes the signal strong enough to physically moves the speakers. (Your laptop has a weak amplifier in it, but only strong enough to power headphones.)
One popular cheap amplifier is the SMSL SA50. I've never used it, but it's less than $70 and should be pretty adequate for your purposes. A nicer way is to buy a stereo receiver, which will have a remote, better circuitry, the ability to switch between several sources, and more, but those start at around $150-200 minimum. (Although if you are knowledgeable and careful, you can find used receivers on craigslist for far less.)
Anyway, most amplifiers have RCA inputs, so you will need a 3.5mm (same connector as headphones) to stereo RCA cable for connecting your laptop to the amplifier. Then you need speaker wire for connecting the amplifier to the speakers.
Get yourself a Class D amp. You can get a decent one for about $60 - $70. The SMSL SA50 is a good option.
I'm also considering getting something like this amp and these speakers as well to go the passive route. From what I understand, this amp can power the speakers, correct? Also, I'm going to need RCA from turntable to pre amp, and RCA from pre amp to amp. Then from amp go to one speaker with speaker wire,then one speaker to the other with speaker wire, so in total 8 banana plugs right?
Here's what I picked up based on the Zeos 2.0 recommendation thread.
Here's what it looks like setup at my desk - LINK
After installing and setting up Equalizer APO on my system and tuning it by ear through a WIDE assortment of music, this setup sounds absolutely amazing. With the amp and Windows at half volume, it's loud enough to be heard throughout my 2-story house with no audible distortion.
Near-field performance at my desk, where my head it at the peak of basically an equilateral triangle based on where I sit in relation to the speakers, is absolutely astonishing.
I use this setup for games, music, and audio editing for video work I do. It's awesome all-around.
Throw a pair of stands in there like these and it's right at your $300 budget.
I have that particular turntable, though mine is hooked up to a much smaller set of speakers. To put it in the simplest terms possible, you're going to need an amp and some speaker wire. Connect the turntable to the RCA input on the amp, then run speaker wire from the outs on the amp to the corresponding ins on the speakers themselves. That's it.
It looks like those Sonys can handle up to 60 watts @ 8 ohms, so they seem pretty efficient. You shouldn't need a ton of power to get them a little loud while still sounding good. As far as hardware recommendations go, I've been very happy with my little SMSL SA50. It should get you a nice, clean sound for less than $70 shipped. I went with these Mediabridge 16 gauge pre-finished cables, but you can always just cut your own and screw the bare ends down/clip them in if you're looking to save a few bucks or if your speakers lack binding posts.
There are also loads of vintage stereo amp options out there for less than $100 if you're willing to dig a bit and are comfortable with something that might have a few miles on it. I recommended the SMSL because it's compact, solid, and new in the box. Either way, enjoy your turntable and those Sonys you saved from the scrap heap!
You're looking at a simple 2.0 set up for that budget.
I would go with the following:
Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2
SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
I would then add a subwoofer if you feel you need it. I spent many a year upgrading from builds like this to what I have today. Enjoy what you have and upgrade at your own pace.
Let me know if you have questions.
If you are only going to have 4 speakers then get two analog amps with zwave outlets. You could also get ANY stereo receiver with digital A/B speaker select and use a harmony hub. This is what I do in my house (with multiple receivers though and I route IR around so I can turn on a specific room from Alexa).
The $150 price tag includes the 79 dollar speakers and the smsl sa50 amplifier, which are the only two things you need. Simply hook the amp up to the computer and then your speakers and you're good to go.
Oh, you may need some cheap speaker wire, interconnects but that shouldn't be more than 10-20 dollars.
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426021140&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+amp
what is your budget? I am a big proponent of passive speakers with a separate amp/dac. They sound the best to me. They do tend to take a lot of space though, so it may be tough with a smaller desk. If you want powered speakers though, the edifiers have been the best in my experience.
My current setup is:
AMP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(note: this amp doesnt support subwoofers, so look elsewhere if you want a 2.1 system. In my experience I haven't felt the need for one, but YMMV)
DAC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY9RBOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2UBS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A cheaper but still solid speaker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NCD2LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 AND https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526322009&sr=1-2&keywords=micca
You got passive speakers from Best Buy, they're still compatible with your record player, you just need a receiver or amp. This little amp will work with them. If you'd rather have active, Edifiers are good, but a receiver/amp will let you upgrade to nicer or cool vintage speakers in the future. What was wrong with the Mackies? They're usually pretty solid too.
I have a SMSL SA50 Amp + Micca MB42X setup for my speaker system.
Also, you'll be fine with Malwarebytes and Windows Defender.
Hi everyone, newbie here. I bought the Micca MB42x and a smsl sa50. I would like to know if this amp is sufficient for the mb42x. I see that the recommendation here is smsl sa60. I saw that the impedance is fine of 4-8ohms. But I have no idea how the watts come into play, can you explain how this works and if my system will be fine or will it fry?
I'm using the SMSL SA50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/
I started off looking at the Lepai 2x20 but after doing some research, I decided against it. I don't need 50w per channel but the Lepai only has a 12v power supply so it can't even do 20W.
Hi all,
I'm going to pick up a U-Turn Orbit Plus: http://store.uturnaudio.com/products/orbit-plus-turntable
I already have speakers and a power amp, but I'd like to get a tube pre-amp for the turntable. My power amp and speakers are nothing special:
T Amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fluance bookshelf speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OS0A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I don't want to spend too much on a tube pre-amp, especially since I'm guessing most of you will say a tube pre-amp will be overkill for the current quality of speakers. I don't mind building the pre-amp either, so if there is a cool kit out there I'd go for that too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
just a cheepo guy
You can buy a small bluetooth adapter that plugs into the back of his existing stereo. There are some amps that offer it built in as well... including some that are ridiculously small. Something like this may be ideal.
Yeah this looks like a good all-in-one solution OP. Otherwise looks like these two items, the amazon basics Bluetooth receiver and a lepai 2020A amp would be another, slightly cheaper, option, but then needs two power cords.
https://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4
Edit: I also like the idea some others have had of using the chromecast audio + amp, then it would be independent and could run with the phone going away.
Also, be careful and wear gloves with that insulation.
There are battery powered fm transmitters
Couple that to a [bluetooth receiver: ](AmazonBasics Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I59VBH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JdxCybSN9ZPDB)and you're in hog heaven.
Tl;dr at the bottom because wow I wrote a lot here.
I don't know if there's a way to specify on an app by app basis, but you could potentially get around that by essentially telling Alexa to switch a Music Mode on or off. As a note, I personally have NOT tested this to see if it works, but I see no reason it wouldn't.
First of all, you're gonna want to buy a Harmony Hub (Or at least something like it). It's basically a big IR blaster that shoots out signals to your devices to turn them on or off, change their inputs, and other such stuff. You can create "activities" where it will turn on or off the devices you specify and change them to their correct inputs all at once. It also has direct Alexa integration so you can say something like "Alexa, turn on my TV," which could prompt Alexa to tell your Harmony Hub to run your "turn on TV" activity to turn on your TV and AV receiver, and set them to the right inputs.
This next step depends on whether or not your AV reciever has bluetooth. If it does, cool, you're already done. You just have to make sure that you make an activity in the Harmony Hub that will turn on the necessary stuff for listening to music, and make sure that when it turns on your AV reciever, it also turns on its bluetooth. Then just make sure it's paired with Alexa. This way, whenever your reciever's bluetooth is turned on, even if you have speakers plugged into the AUX port on the Dot, Alexa will still automatically connect to it and play through it instead. When it's off, Alexa's audio will play through her internal speaker or whatever speaker that's plugged into her AUX port.
If you don't have bluetooth built into your AV receiever, it gets a little more complicated. First off, you're gonna want to get this. That is a bluetooth receiver that requires power to function. Plug it's audio output into your AV receiver, and BAM, now your AV receiver has bluetooth. You're also going to want to get a smart plug to plug its power cable into. Because this bluetooth receiver needs power to function, this will allow you to turn the bluetooth on and off whenever you want from a distance, simply by powering the smart plug on or off. Pair that, and Alexa should automatically connect to it when you turn it on with the smart plug, and use her internal speakers or AUX connected speakers when it's off.
The main downside to the above is that you're still going to have to power the bluetooth on separately from you powering on your music mode with the Harmony Hub. From my understanding, you can fix this, but it requires getting a Smart Things Hub and a Smart Things Plug it will connect to. You can apparently integrate Smart Things into your Harmony Hub activities, meaning that you can power the Smart Things plug on at the same time that you activate your music mode on your Harmony Hub, or power it off when you turn that mode off. Frankly, this is a decently expensive solution to a minor annoyance of a problem, so I'll leave that up to you to decide if you want to go this extra mile.
As a note, the Smart Things integration with Harmony Hub is the thing that I'm most unsure about how it works. I believe I've seen it mentioned that it worked that way, but I cannot confirm, and honestly haven't researched into that as much as I'd like to have. If you go this route, I'd definitely recommend looking into it more for yourself. Also of note is that this was a setup I was planning for my particular situation. It may be that there's much cheaper options and alternatives to this whole mess that I don't know about or just simply overlooked because it didn't work for me. I encourage you to do more research into this on your own if you really want the best results.
And finally, if ALL of this is way too much over your head, you could just do what I decided to do that was ultimately so much cheaper and easier: Just buy a Roku Streaming Stick/Amazon Fire TV Stick and use that as your dedicated music streaming device to your AV receiver. Then just use your Dot for everything else.
 
Tl;dr: Buy a Logitech Harmony Hub. Have bluetooth on your AV receiver? Pair it with Alexa, and then just add turning on its bluetooth to your Harmony Hub's turn on music activity. You're done.
Don't have bluetooth on your AV receiver? Buy this and a smart plug compatible with Alexa to plug it into. Pair the bluetooth receiver with Alexa. Turn the plug and the receiver on when you want to listen to music through it. Turn them off when you don't.
Want to be able to turn that smart plug on at the same time as your music mode? Make sure you buy a Smart Things smart plug and a Smart Things hub, then integrate turning your plug on into your Harmony Hub's music mode.
Or just buy a Roku Streaming Stick/Amazon Fire TV Stick for music instead if you're a cheapass
Turn it into a bluetooth receiver: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4
or
Micca MB42 speakers for $89 https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ (review here )
I bought something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4
Works great with my phone or computer at my studio. I ended up buying another one for the house.
You can connect the steam link to Bluetooth devices. Could get a Bluetooth receiver and try that... Much cheaper I think.
AmazonBasics Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I59VBH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.XU2xb35W2C75
I use a wifi outlet switch and a bluetooth receiver that automatically connects to a device when powered up. I have a routine where if I turn on my home theater system to the Music setting then the bluetooth receiver is turned on and when not on the Music setting the bluetooth receiver is turned off. I use a Harmony hub and SmartThings for the routine but could probably use IFTTT or Stringify.
Link to AmazonBasics Bluetooth Receiver
I don't recommend this type of receiver if you don't have a way of automatically switching it on and off because it connects to the Echo immediately after you disconnect from it which is why I came up with this solution.
The device /u/pqu4d linked to has RCA connectors on the back, and comes with an adaptor cable that has a 3.5mm plug on the other end. Your speakers have a 3.5mm plug. You can't plug a plug into a plug, not with out a female/female adapter to go between.
This device is closer to what I think you're looking for. The silver part in the picture unplugs (it is a male/male adaptor) and the male 3.5mm plug from your speakers would plug into it. It has an internal battery and a micro USB jack for recharging it. It's also quite small.
If you did buy the device /u/pqu4d linked to, you would also need to purchase an adaptor like this.
This Amazon Basics Bluetooth Receiver is the same style as the one /u/pqu4d linked to, but it already has the correct style of 3.5mm jack (female) on the back and you could plug your 3.5mm plug directly into it. Both this unit and the one /u/pqu4d linked to use a DC power supply that plugs into the wall.
Do you need the speaker functionality? Or are you just looking for Bluetooth receive? if you dont care about the speaker get this... http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4
Not a bad system. If you don't listen to CDs or Tapes, you could get rid of the CD player and tape deck. The speakers could be pretty good, Advent made some decent speakers.
The quickest and cheapest way to get bluetooth functionality would be to buy something like this . That's the first one that popped up on Amazon, I can't comment on how well it works compared to others.
That's actually a pretty big pavilion. I'd go rent some PA speakers and a real amp. Five little wifi speakers aren't going to work for a pavilion like that with more than a dozen people in it.
As far as connecting an iPod to the amplifier, I'd go with a dock that has an unamplified stereo output (something like this). If you want to go wireless, use a bluetooth receiver instead. Either option will work with any standard amplifier that you can rent.
FWIW I used to DJ in clubs and did a couple of weddings as well. It's easy to underestimate how loud those events get and how much power you actually need for a sound system. Better to have too much than not enough.
Use a bluetooth adapter? That's how I connected a Dot to my home theater receiver.
i like this thing better. don't have to worry about what applications support casting.
These are the two the connect everytime a paired device near is playing. Like if you're listening to your phone through a BT headset or the car stereo when you pull into the driveway.
Logitech
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Basics
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I59VBH4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That depends on what you mean. Do you want it to be on the speaker system automatically when Docked? and What kind of input does your speaker system have, a standard headphone Jack?
If the above is the case you'll need something like this, as well as an adapter like this one
I highly recommend picking up a couple of HDMI audio extractors, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072 They come in handy in situations like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
it would work, but plugging in would disable the audio output via hdmi.
you have as in the link spliters with any combination you need.
IDK how many inputs your Bose system has but you could get 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
and if you want to be very lazy add this
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484164635&sr=1-2&keywords=auto+switching+hdmi+switch
I’ve tried getting that specific sound card to work with android without luck as there wasn’t proper drivers for it, it was an older android version (jellybean) so YMMV. There are USB to optical sound sound card that are capable of running on android though.
Would something like this work instead, or do run into the same limitation that your TV has?
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072
I believe the answer to 1) would be http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404993797&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
Something like that.
Or you could go HDMI to HDMI + Audio, but you'd lose the headphone connection...
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=HDMI+to+HDMI+and+audio
a possible config would be hdmi source --> hdmi in, L/R stereo out --> RCA stereo in, 3.5mm out --> 3.5mm line level input, sound out
another with powerful speakers would be hdmi source --> hdmi in, L/R stereo out --> RCA in, 100W powered speaker wire out --> 100W, 50W rms unpowered speakers
I'm surprised nobody mentioned this. Get an HDMI audio extractor. HDMI in, rca and HDMI out. You might be able to find one with a headphone jack instead of rca. If not, you can always get an rca to 3.5mm adapter.
Much, much easier and cheaper than a receiver. Not sure why someone suggested that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1nH7xbXTVVXSV
I just got one of these today to hook mine up.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473964994&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
You could get something like this to extract the HDMI audio and send it out through optical.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/
You could try something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
It splits the audio out from the source so you can get surround sound.
Not sure how compatible this specific unit is with the Playbar, just pointing to it as a concept of another approach to getting the audio quality you desire without buying a new display.
Also an option I suppose is to get a unit that does have RS232:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5312&seq=1&format=2
And then use an outboard audio splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NRE6R8G4AC68N91QGT3
Correct, it is an input, not an output. Therefore, if you want to get sound out of whatever device you are plugging in, like your XBox, you'll either need to get lucky and have another type of audio out from your device, like Optical or analog RCAs, or you'll need to strip the audio out of the HDMI with something like this.
I have not used that particular model, so I can't guarantee whether or not it'll work for your situation. I recommend looking through the reviews to see if anyone else has a similar situation to yours.
Some like this may work as well ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor for both your PC and Xbox
My monitor doesn't have a 3.5 out for sound, so I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/
It works well enough. I use it for all my hdmi devices: Wii U, PS4, Firestick, SNESClassic.
This is the actual one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072
But the one I posted before has better review ratio.
My biggest complaint is that is plugs in with a powerjack that needs to take up multiple slots. It would be swell if it were USB powered. Let me know if you have any questions?
How about an HDMI splitter like this? It looks like you could take the HDMI input and split it off, extract the audio through the s/pdif or RCA jacks and run that to the speakers.
You could use something like this to split out the audio signal from the chromecast, but that is a bit expensive for just doing that.
This is probably your best bet. They also make audio extractor boxes that hdmi goes in and out (assuming your monitor is hdmi and not dvi) like one of these https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072 (I cannot vouch for this one specifically)
Just search amazon for HDMI audio extractor, you'll find a bunch of listings for $25-$35 that just do simple HDMI passthrough with optical+RCA/3.5mm audio. This one looks like it would do the job just perfectly.
There's also a whole market of HDMI switchers that support audio extraction as well. This is one we use, $70 for 6in/2out with selectable audio output... just as an example of what's out there for reference.
There are HDMI audio extractor boxes for just this purpose. Fairly inexpensive too, here's the first one I found:
ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor | Optical Toslink + L/R Stereo Analog Converter Outputs | VHD-H2HSAs | Support Amazon Fire TV, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y-2-ybYVR27H5
I assume he means he wants something that splits the hdmi signal into digital video (hdmi/dvi) and analog or digital audio (3.5mm jack or optical).
And yes, there is such a thing.
True. You can use a cheap toslink extractor / hdmi pass-thru if you want the option to run the Chromecast for audio without the TV on.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Great question.
Now that I'm in front of my computer, I found the manual for your specific modules.
You can see where the input port leads to a wall plate module with standard RCA inputs (among other things). You're basically doing the same thing, only with a much more simple module that only includes RCA. And obviously, it's not installed in a remote location. It's just hanging there in the closet.
You've also got a secondary distribution module, but from what I can tell, it's daisy-chained to the first via the 'Cascade Out' port, and it's just because they needed one more speaker output.
What's important is that you'll see in that diagram that the input jacks are clearly accepting a 'line-level out'. That's another term for 'pre-amp'. Higher-end receivers have a set of outputs that bypass the amplifier so that you can provide a clean audio source to another system, like the OnQ.
Unfortunately, your Sony doesn't appear to have line-out. I have a Yamaha that's pretty much the exact same unit. I was also frustrated by the lack of line-out jacks. I needed them for some wireless speakers.
There's definitely devices out there that convert speaker-outputs to pre-amp. They were particularly common back in the day for car stereo installs, because people wanted to add aftermarket amps/woofers to their stock systems and needed an unamplified signal to work with.
But they're not ideal because they introduce noise. It's just not a very clean signal.
It would seem odd to me if someone had a pricey whole-house system like this, only to provide it a muddy audio source via a line-out adapter. But it's doable, I'm sure.
Here's an option...
If you plan to use the Sony as a switcher for TV sources, and you want the house speakers to just play whatever is on your TV, you could tap into the HDMI output on its way to the TV, using one of these.
It's what I used to push the TV audio to the wireless speakers and it worked like a charm. HDMI output isn't amplified, so it satisfies what you need for the OnQ, as well.
Of course, you'd either have to keep all your sources in that closet with the receiver and run an HDMI all the way to your TV. Or keep all that in the living room and run a long RCA cable into the closet.
Here's the catch...
I'm betting anything that like my Yamaha, the HDMI can only output HDMI sources. So this won't let you route, for instance, your iPod connected to your Sony into the OnQ. But if you listen to online music via Chromecast, FireStick, Roku, etc., then this could totally work for you.
if i understand your problem correctly, you'll need a hdmi DAC, try this:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072
Hi Blotto, thanks so much for replying me.
You see, I have bought this converter ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bpWwybKCG3AWP ) over at Amazon, which specifically states that it has the capability to receive Dolby Digital 5.1 over HDMI and output it over SPDIF.
Now, I'm 100% sure that this converter does not feature Dolby Digital Live! However, if I were to use my PS4 for instance, and send a full 5.1 signal over HDMI to this converter, will it extract this 5.1 in Dolby Digital?
Likewise for the Samsung KS8000, it claims that it can receive a HDMI 5.1 input. And all the optical out does is transmit that same 5.1 input. Pretty sure the KS8000 does not have DDLIVE! either.
In both cases, why do I still need DDLIVE if I can send over a 5.1 signal via hdmi and extract the same 5.1 to toslink? Regards
Run HDMI from your video card to an audio extractor like this one (it has HDMI passthrough if you're already using HDMI for video)
the RCA ports are input only, you need a breakout box between the source (chromecast) and TV. http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
Same thing happened to me. I bought this gizmo on Amazon, and it took care of the problem. $27 - Check it out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm sure there are other options, but this one has worked out well for me.
Prior to this setup, I was using a Mac mini hooked up to the stereo and while it was fine, it wasn't something I could just hit a button and start playing. With this chromecast setup and a remote app on my phone, I can do it all from the couch. Exactly what I've been wanting for the last several years.
Having an issue using an hdmi switch + audio extractor and wanted to see if anyone had some ideas.
Currently I'm using this 5 port switch which then outputs to this audio extractor which is then fed into my PC for listening. This works perfectly for my PS4 but I get no audio when the switch is docked.
I had the same issue with my NUC.
Get a splitter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBHX072/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-6190964-7898448
It splits hdmi with audio to separate hdmi video and spdif.
Works with 5.1 ac3 and dtsas long as you pass encoded audio, works for me with xbmc (aka kodi) and vlc.
You will have to somehow split the FireTV Stick's audio out of the HDMI signal. They make things like that, for instance this one I just found on a quick search: http://amzn.com/B00KBHX072
That said, if you're spending $39 on a FireTV stick and another $30 on a box to split the audio out, you might find the full FireTV to be a better value.
Now that PS4 supports usb headsets, there are actually "hacky" ways to get bluetooth headsets to work (but you are essentially pairing to a usb dongle, not the PS4 directly). And of course their is Sony's own wireless PS4 headset that uses its own USB dongle. In either case, the point still is NONE of these wireless headset possibilities are an option with the PSVR (if you want proper directional sound), since you need to get the audio output from the PSVR breakout box, which means you MUST plug a 3.5mm jack into the headset cable, period.
All that said, I guess you have hacky options for the PSVR too. You could get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Connected-Transmission/dp/B00P24XKS8/ref=pd_lpo_107_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
and theoretically any bluetooth headset would work then, and you are getting audio via the 3.5mm jack... That said, having that hanging from your PSVR wire would defeat the purpose of wireless anyway, and since you are already wired to the PS4 due to the HMD, I don't really think a wired headphone makes anything that worse.
Something like this?
3.5mm Bluetooth Transmitter
Cost? Sheer lack of space inside the system? There is a bunch of reasons why they may have omitted it.
If you really want it you could use a Bluetooth audio transmitter.
I don't think there is any other way to get audio into the unit. The best option might be keeping a Bluetooth transmitter in the car. Something like this. There are a ton of Chinese rebrand variants on Amazon, but that one seems to be the most popular. You will need to arrange power to micro-USB port as well. Maybe mount it somewhere and use a 3.5mm extension cable.
Another option is to save your pennies and wait to see how the Alpine iLX-107 turns out.
I haven't recorded a memo or anything to see how the mic quality is, but noone I've called has commented either way. It seems to work well enough--"Hey Siri" works even with music going at a comfortable volume.
Since everybody else is being a butt, I did some looking. You've got to plug it into your controller still but it'll get the job done!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P24XKS8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_M84kzbX0Y7G8V
You want one of these.
Haven't used one myself, but I have had good experiences with TaoTronics products and their support is great.
For my cortana, ok-google setup, I paired a Kangaroo pc with a usb microphone, works fine. Any audio going to the display is transmitted via bluetooth to more adequate speakers.
Oh but this thing gives static because you use a radio station. What I could suggest to you is buy aux to Bluetooth adapter. And you won't have any static :) I will try that or a longer aux cord or via USB. That's why was asking about it.
TaoTronics Wireless Portable Bluetooth Transmitter Connected to 3.5mm Audio Devices, Paired with Bluetooth Receiver, TV Ears, Bluetooth Dongle, A2DP Stereo Music Transmission https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P24XKS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0y3oybZKAKBC9
Use a generic transmitter?
http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-TaoTronics-Connected-Transmission/dp/B00P24XKS8
something similar to this perhaps
i don't know if a usb -> bluetooth transmitter would work, though I do know some turtle beaches use that.
I use an auxiliary to bluetooth adapter and a pair of bluetooth headphones.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P24XKS8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You want a Bluetooth transmitter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P24XKS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458358793&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluetooth+transmitter&dpPl=1&dpID=31bZcU4zE0L&ref=plSrch
i assume you are in the UK, that's why i posted that one. If you shop at Amazon, they have hundreds of LePai, a popular class T/D Chinese amp that will do 20-30 watts. Something liek this: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530836&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai but from a UK vendor so it will have a proper power supply
I have this http://smile.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 and this http://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG?sa-no-redirect=1 arriving this weekend. Going to hook it up to the Dot.
I use a Lepy t-amp. I don't know it they are the same company.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1473906380&sr=1-1&keywords=T-amp
Awesome! Turns out my local best buy has an open box that comes out around $26, with tax. So guess Im getting that. Thanks for the advice!
Also super quick last question -
If I get those Insignia speakers and this amp - Lepy LP-2024A
, then would I need anything else to get all this set up? I plan on using these with my PC.
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/
For speakers, go for the Dayton B652 Airs, or check craigslist for some decent bookshelf speakers.
What kind of speakers are they?
This will work for 2 small speakers (say 6" or smaller single woofer).
This will work for 2 small speakers with a small sub.
There are better options out there, these are questionable quality, but if you just want cheap+easy, this will work.
Example : https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A
They connector via a RCA to Audio Cable like this
You wire the speakers to the amp and use the RCA to Audio cable to plug it into your computer.
You'll have to check craigslist or something. You need a phono preamp, an amp, and speakers.
Alternatively, you'll need a phono preamp, and active monitors
or an amp with phono input, and speakers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-RX-395-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver-Amp-Phono-Turntable-Input-AM-FM-Black-/282297973948?hash=item41ba453cbc:g:hzIAAOSwnHZYXqIl
something like this, and some junk goodwill speakers, and speaker wire are already over your budget.
the cheapest amazon stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ULRFQ1A&pd_rd_r=K7NZC8MT9NE3WJGEDS7R&pd_rd_w=oS56N&pd_rd_wg=UDEDg&psc=1&refRID=K7NZC8MT9NE3WJGEDS7R
https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482864764&sr=8-3&keywords=phono+preamp
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B452-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00Q3MF9YQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1482865038&sr=1-8&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A2494592011
You'll also need rca cables and speaker wire. This will be above your budget and wont be very good. Pyle is a POS. If you double your budget you can have a much, much, much better sounding system.
The bs22s are 89.00$ right now and are a steal. That plus a goodwill amp with phono input will be far superior to the lepai pyle and dayton audio.
Local used is your best bet.
The config file is at /boot/config.txt.
By adding:
> I'm currently torn between trying to shoe horn a set of usb speakers into the cab and working out some way of putting the controls outside, or mounting on the base somewhere?
Here's a small stereo amp that can be used to power the speakers and control the volume.
From there, you can install a storage tray somewhere to hold these ... then, when you're playing, just plop them on top of the table.
You need an amplifier for those speakers.
The absolute cheapest you'd be able to get away with is this one which is roughly the same as the one at the top of this list from the sidebar.
Then you would run the RCA from the TT to the amplifier and the speaker cables from the amp through the sub, ie Amp>Sub High Level Input>Sub High Level Output>Micca Speakers.
You can then adjust the volume/crossover on the sub to fine tune the sound. I had a similar setup but with Dayton B652s
I hope this helps.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H88SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427796903&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+stereo+receiver&dpPl=1&dpID=31LAAKCGZeL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Can active speakers be used with a receiver? I know all you'd need for a basic turntable setup would be just the turntable and the powered speakers, but I wanted to connect a subwoofer, so for that I figured I'd need a receiver.
What I'm unsure about is whether having an already amplified signal running from this receiver to these active speakers would fry the speakers or anything for that matter.
And there's this route-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00F0H88SY/ref=sr_1_4_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1468459018&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+stereo+receiver&condition=used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00F0H88SY/ref=sr_1_4_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1468459018&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+stereo+receiver&condition=used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00JZTQIJ4/ref=sr_1_4_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468459242&sr=1-4&keywords=dayton+audio+subwoofer&condition=new
I'd go with PA speakers up high on tripod stands with the iNuke amp to get the party volume level you'll want and then add a powered sub later when you get your next Pell grant check :)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H88SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421286891&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31LAAKCGZeL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
What you want is a 2ch stereo receiver. Those speakers do NOT use rca connections. They have standard speaker wire terminals and any receiver will support that. The amplifier power is listed as watts per channel so you dont need to double it, but at this point i wouldnt even worry about it. Lots of brands make enty level receivers but something like this would be fine...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H88SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452242679&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Sony+STRDH130&dpPl=1&dpID=31LAAKCGZeL&ref=plSrch
Sorry no link, on mobile. If you wanted to play cds you would need a cd player and plug that in the back with an rca cable. Or just plug in an mp3 player with a "3.5mm jack to rca" cable
That will be really hard. You could get a pair of Monoprice speakers for as little as $60. Then drive it with a power amp that you can get for about $40-$60. Consider the SMSL SA50 although it is a tad more expensive, or a Tripath Class T TA2020 chip amp such as the Lepai for $27. If you don't drive it hard, these TA2020 amps sound as good as $1k amps, and I am not even exaggerating. Hook it up with a $20 CD/DVD player and/or a $35 Google Chromecast that will do high quality wireless streaming audio and even supports high res audio.
Edit: The Micca speakers are also for $60.
I had the same issue, best thing I found was this receiver hooked up to a Chromecast audio. I leave the amp powered on at like 60% volume. It is very energy efficient, burns ~1 watt when on but not playing anything according to my kill-a-watt.
http://i.imgur.com/YYxecNl.jpg
SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gPvCybQF53XPB
Now I can use Google home to send music to a room, woot! And I can cast to multiple rooms at once.
I had such good success with this setup I got 3 amps for 3 separate zones in my house. Only thing I'm missing now is the ability to cast to Sonos in our living room using Google home or synchronization of sonos/cast zones.
Budget 200-500 €.
I am looking for a stereo for my HTPC. I listen to all my music, watch all my tv and play all my games via it. So I'm anywhere between 2 meters in the couch to 8 meters away from it. This means I've only got one analouge audio source to bother with - the two RCA connectors on the sound card, which is an Asus Xonar Essence STX if that matters. I never play loud music 'cause of neighbours so I'm not looking for a powerful system capable of drowning out the vaccum cleaner or running water in the sink.
I'm willing to buy used but since I live in Sweden, used market is a bit smaller than the one in the US.
Bonus points if the system is aesthetically pleasing and not too intrusive. There's a regular sized slot in the TV bench that measures 30h x 60w x 60d (cm) and would take a regular sized reciever/amp. I would love to have an amp with old-school VU meters but I would guess that would be out of my price range :) ) There is space both on the tv bench for speakers and next to it for free standing speakers.
Should I go with active or passive speakers? Should I get floor standing speakers or not?
Edit/update: Would this work for me?
Klipsch RB-61 II
SMSL SA50 amp
https://www.komplett.se/product/771307/tv-ljud-bild/hogtalare/stativhogtalare/klipsch-rb-61-ii-svarta-stativhogtalare#
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00F0H8TOC&pd_rd_r=47VERT43P6CEQ89E32GZ&pd_rd_w=CGnwg&pd_rd_wg=LIpy5&psc=1&refRID=47VERT43P6CEQ89E32GZ
Yes, you could leave the receiver on, it would use a lot of power though. You can get a cheap digital amp that would be much more efficient, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUygAbEA4RYCG
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
There. 5 pairs of those for under 500, and they will blow the Logitech speakers out of the water in every aspect.
As for amps, you either need an industrial amp with 10 outputs, or buy 5 smaller amps. SMSL makes good stuff, and doesn't cost a whole lot.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
And you should still be able to come in under 1k.
The $25 Lepai LP-2020TI will get the job done at normal volumes:
https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-class-d-stereo-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000
If you can afford to spend more, something like the SMSL SA50 would be a beefy upgrade that could really open the C-Notes up, but it's $68, so that might be outside of what you were looking to spend:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
smsl sa-50 should be powerful enough for it unless you want it to go really loud.
These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.
If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.
To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.
If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.
I'm planning on upgrading my amplifier. I need a no-nonsense, can be bare bones, stereo amp. I have a pair of Bang and Olufsen Beovox RL 1000 speakers, a Project Debut Carbon, and will soon have a 'good' preamp (Schiit Mani, whenever it gets released). I have my headphone setup on my computer so all this will be is TT -> speakers, so something like the SMSL SA40 caught my eye. I'm not sure if the Topping amps are well regarded, but some of them have a dual input, which might be nice to have for my iPod to pump out ALAC/AAC to my stereo system, but not a requirement.
I'm looking to spend around $100-$200 for a decent amp, separate from the $130 for the Schiit Mani.
It's a little more, but you could get a set of passive speakers and a small amp, you'd need some speaker wire and a 3.5mm to RCA Phono cable to connect it to your PC, but it will sound way better than those desktop speaker packages from logitech etc
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC
I know you already have a receiver, but for simplcity I would recommend a small class D amp like this. Chip amps like these run off a laptop charger basically and are very efficient. I leave mine on 24/7 and it only uses real power when it's amplifying music. You pair that with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and a Chromecast Audio and you're set.
Easy control of the music by voice or by phone. We use spotify with our Google Home's and love it. Currently running my setup on 4 in-ceiling speakers. I plan to replicate this to outdoor speakers for my back deck. When you starting adding more zones my method is pretty economical compared to other multi-zone amplifiers.
Just an amp of some sort... I use this for my two 4ohm speakers and it gets decently loud. You could spend more and get a much better amp but I was on a budget so it works about as well as a $30 amp should. You would also need some speaker wire
Edit; these are 8ohm so they would not be extremely loud but they would work at moderate volumes
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG
And https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSER6O
Or
https://www.chanemusiccinema.com/A1.4
High quality speakers like these will work great for music movies and karaoke.
Most receivers have a 1/4" headphone jack in the front.
I use a pair of wireless Sennheiser headphones with a dual-RCA to 1/4: headphone adapter.
When you plug the headphones into the receiver, it routes all audio to the headphones. Unplug and it goes to the speakers.
So, when I want to use the headphones, I plug them in and pull them off the charging stand.
Edit:
This and this would work, and the headphones already have the adapters needed (1/4" to 3.5mm and 3.5mm to dual-RCA). You can also step it up and get a better receiver or better headphones.
this is a great entry level receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG
You're at the crossroads that everyone eventually gets to: pay less now and replace a lot of it later, or pay more now and future upgrades will be fairly incremental. This is because a decent receiver is at the heart of every audio system but that initial investment, even with diligent shopping, will cost you at least a couple hundred. Here's a good entry-level option.
For speakers to start out, I would get these klipsch r14m's for $99.
You could also go to goodwill and look for a basic surround receiver. I would make a trip, write down all the model numbers that look reasonably modern, and then do some research at home. You could probably get something decent for $50 IF you're willing to put the time in to find the gem.
Don't buy off CL. Too many scams.
Lastly, you should get a wall mount for the TV. That will create space on your stand for the receiver and a future center speaker.
So my advice is you could get mediocre and future-limited system now with that $200 - 300, or you could save up another $100 - 200 and get something that will last you the next ten years with room for growth.
As noted the first one is a 2 wire stranded copper speaker wire. 1 End will attach to the + and - on the back of the speaker. The other end needs to tie into the back of a amp or receiver. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH130-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B006U1VH2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498849794&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+stereo+receiver
Each speaker would tie into a black (-) and red (+) set of terminals on the back of the receiver. You can then plug an audio source into the receiver and play sound over the speakers.
If you wanted to use these speakers with a tv/home theater set up you would want to look at an AVR. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498849947&sr=8-1&keywords=avr
Your wires would then hook into the Front L/R +/- terminals. You could then hook your tv/audio equipment the avr and use your speakers for sound.
The second picture is hard to tell what the wire was used for. Some type of 4 wire electrical device, impossible for us to say what it was hooked up to.
I would instead get this receiver, and these speakers, and this center channel. This would be $20 cheaper than the Denon DM40SBK D-M40 you linked, it would sound better, and it has better "upgradeability."
I suppose I could. I might just get this [Yamaha](Yamaha RX-V381BL Receiver (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY7YOAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S7jtybPRX2J5W) or this [Denon (not sure if this one has HDR) ](Denon AVR-S510BT 5.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAO43YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B4jtybWHT3WFK) to got with my LG 55UH7700
-Not sure why first link is messed up
I just recently got the following and I listen to Jazz/Blues/Bluegrass quite a bit. I also wanted a A/V Receiver that would allow for future 4K@60FPS when/if I go down that road. Granted this will put you at 500 bucks, but just thought I would share.
ELAC Debut B6 For the type of music you are listening to, these definitely have enough low end range, plus they just sound really, really good to me at least.
Denon AVR-S510BT This is the A/V Receiver I use and I"m happy with it. The only thing I don't like are the spring clips, but I couldn't find anything else at the price point that had that many HDMI 2 ports plus optical in for my Chromecast Audio, plus this is able to power the ELAC's just fine. I wouldn't go over 16 gauge speaker wire for the spring clips. 14 might be doable, but it would be a pain.
What's your budget? The simplest solution is this:
Bluetooth Audio Device -> Amplifier -> Wall-mounted speaker inputs
To do this, you will need to buy the bluetooth device plus an amplifier which can drive all of the speakers (how many are there? do you know the impedance of a single driver or how they are wired?) The wires/cables shouldn't cost much, the big spend here is the amp.
If you want to add in the TV, you will need a mixer/auto-input selector and a cable long enough to go from your TV to the amp:
Bluetooth Audio + TV -> Stereo Mixer -> Amplifier -> Wall-mounted speaker inputs
With this solution, the TV will always play downstairs.
If you want the TV to only play upstairs, you will need two amps and a Y-splitter for the bluetooth audio:
Bluetooth Audio (Y-splitter out 1) and TV -> Stereo Mixer -> Upstairs Amplifier -> Upstairs wall-mounted speaker inputs
plus
Bluetooth Audio (Y-splitter out 2) -> Downstairs Amplifier -> Downstairs wall-mounted speaker inputs
If you are using cheap amplifiers such as the ones made by Topping/Pyle/SMSL then this doesn't have to break the bank.
The other option:
If it's not that far from the TV to the wall-mounted inputs, you could just put an AV receiver under your TV and run speaker cables to the wall around the corner. Some AV receivers even come with built-in bluetooth. That way, you could use the AV receivers remote control to choose between sources. You could also use the receiver's remote to choose between normal stereo output (connect the "front" speaker outputs on the receiver to the upstairs speakers) when watching the TV and "all channel stereo" mode (as before but the downstairs speakers will also be connected to the "rear" speaker outputs on the receiver).
Thinking about it, as long as you don't mind using a remote to switch sources, this is the better option. You can choose between having sound upstairs and downstairs (or both) and you can choose between multiple inputs. The AV receiver will also be better suited to driving the speakers because it will have multiple amplifier channels. Just make sure that it is one that has an "all channel stereo" option (sometimes called party mode).
EDIT: More info
For example, this Denon AVR-S510BT receiver will do what I have described above. See pages 55/56 of the owners manual where it talks about "Stereo" and "Multi Ch Stereo" playback.
If you're actually going to buy a receiver, I just recently purchased a Denon AVR-S510BT to replace my newly dead Denon that was about 15 years old. I was able to get it for $180 with tax from Amazon, but it looks like the cheapest new is now $230.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAO43YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alternately, I purchased an OREI Digital to Analog Audio Converter for a friend to output sound to separate speakers since his Xbox TV's builtin audio was failing. This is a $20 box but it needs its own power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks, that helps a lot actually. I'm going to shop around for a receiver. Would you say this receiver is one of the better entry level ones?
Depends on if you want AVR capabilities as well. There are a ton of stereo receivers out there that will do just fine. Sony, Yamaha, Denon, etc. all make economy models that should last forever and have decent power. Maybe not feature packed or super sexy, but will do the job for years and years.
This guy has bluetooth which is HUGE for a lazy listener like me.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484073625&sr=1-4&keywords=stereo+receiver
If you want something you can use as a surround receiver, just make sure you get one with 5.1 capabilities - they can play both stereo/two channel as well as surround sound.
Can the line out connections on this Yamaha be used as Subwoofer out connections?
Amp:
Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_na6qDb4YMVMAH
Or
Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nb6qDb2ZM2TRP
Speakers:
ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers, Black (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4Q5587/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gd6qDbYGGK2GW
Or
Klipsch RB-61 II Reference Series Bookshelf Loudspeakers, Black (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040LRI96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9e6qDbSSPBRJ6
Or
Polk Audio RTI A7 Floorstanding Speaker (Single, Cherry) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V2OQL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.f6qDb5EGHRD8
Typically you connect the TV to Stereo Receiver via OPTICAL input. The Sherwood (nor the one I mention below have optical inputs). Some TVs have a line out which would be fine in either car.
Budget $150 Stereo Receiver with Bluetooth - https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
If you need optical and want small and easy and have more than enough power for 2.0 in most situations.
You'll be looking for a receiver and speakers. Does your TV have an optical out?
For speakers, I'd recommend the Philharmonic AA Monitor, KEF Q100, or HTD Level 3. This thread compares all of them.
Yamaha would be my pick for a receiver, but I haven't used many others anyway. If you're cool with buying used, definitely consider buying from here. They sell refurb units for cheaps.
Go to Amazon, there is a well regarded receiver by Yamaha for around 150 dollars USD.
https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497986206&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+receiver
If you have less to spend, check your local craigslist, pawn shops or record stores. You can usually get something decent for 100 USD but more risky because you are buying used.
So I'm guessing couldn't do this at home with this app, this amp, a decent woofer and a glass plate?
They are 8 ohm speakers. I'm not sure what you mean by "...a standard Yamaha receiver ...", but if it's something like an R-S202BL it will be fine. Even it's a 5.1/7.2/9.2 home theater AV receiver it will be fine.
avoid smsl stuff if you're going to spend that much on speakers. I bought this to power my kanto yumis and couldn't be happier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WwtHzbJQH7RE8
This Yamaha is quite reasonably priced:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
I recommend these:
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15PM-Powered-Monitor-Black/dp/B01A7J534G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479322474&sr=8-1&keywords=r15+pm+klipsch
https://www.amazon.com/U-Turn-Audio-Orbit-Turntable-Black/dp/B00YQ6B396/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479322533&sr=8-1&keywords=u+turn+orbit
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-chromecast-audio-black/4532100.p?skuId=4532100&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=b9026f1f-e325-4276-8133-249263fd9844&ksprof_id=16&ksaffcode=pg72903&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCS2ZLO/ref=sxr_pa_click_within_right_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2329824862&pf_rd_r=H70DTYPT16GTYCXQ2CFC&pd_rd_wg=hShMQ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=eQHOV&pf_rd_i=speaker+stands+30&pd_rd_r=GNYQHZ851XV5J0WVQ3D0&psc=1
The Klipsch are a speaker system with a receiver built in.
This is a complete home music system and you wont need to buy anything else.
Or if you want to have separate components I recommend this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Elliptical-Counterweight-Anti-Skating-RT81/dp/B01F2EXIFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479323335&sr=8-1&keywords=fluance+rt81
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1479323363&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+stereo+system
https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q300B-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers-Black/dp/B00CE3LG9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479323386&sr=8-1&keywords=kef+q300
and speaker stands.
These are budget recommendations that will get you good sound and good quality. If you want to go crazy on high end stuff you will want to do more research on the audiophile sub.
I'd recommend getting a 2 channel receiver like this Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5wFRCbPW1MP6R
Connect via optical or with a sound card, and then both your speakers and headphones can be used though one amp.
This
Yea it seems like the next best thing is the SMSL SA50 which is over 3 times as expensive. It makes a strong case for powered speakers vs the amp-speaker combo. I'm personally looking at the MB42x(es) with the SMSL but I'm wondering if that's a waste of money and I should just get the PB42x(es).
I am looking for a decent amp to push my Micca MB42X.
The Muse posted above has a ridiculous shipping date (especially compared to the free 2 day for the rest of my stuff.) Im looking at this Topping but I'm not sure. Two of my friends have the SMSL and they are not pleased with it. I have also considered the Lepai.
How much power do i really need? I live in the dorms so i won't be going obnoxiously loud, but i still want to rock out.
Thanks for any and all help!
Here is the setup I went for in a small room. This is for a desk setup in a 11x14 room. Couldn't be happier for about 250$.
Speakers: 90$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amp:70$
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454215590&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+amplifier&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=97458c4923f86af9ecf53e1a566a6fca
Sub:81$ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGA6A8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wire:8.50$
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214218&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+wire&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=50aa0e85d9168eed8d40f824e4203a64
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca
Plugs 10$
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca
Perfect. I've been using the SMSL SA50 amp for my patio speakers. https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499781143&sr=1-4&keywords=class+d+amplifier
It's ok, but have to leave it on and doesn't have the A/B speaker option. Definitely going to get the one you recommended for the kitchen reno we're doing.
I have some decent 8ohm 40w Sony's that I'll send you for free if you pay shipping.
Also, this amp was recently recommended to me from an audiophile friend. A little above your budget, but he swears by it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xzaxzb8VN4XDJ
SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0Mb.wbN21Z6ZR
I built a set for my girlfriend a while back, paired them with this. They sounded tremendous.
I am planning on buying some ELAC B6s but I need an amplifier. I will mostly be listening to music through streaming services like Spotify in my room. I had this SMSL SA50 amplifier recommended to me. I was told it'd be fine for my purposes and if so I'll buy it but if you've got other recommendations, I'd love to hear them. I'm willing to buy used. I live in the Salt Lake City, UT area. I'd like to not spend much more than $100 for one though. I'm planning on using Chromecast Audio to make it a wireless setup. I'd love to hear any thoughts and suggestions or advice.
Anything bluetooth/portable will be way less value for money so only do that if you need it to be bluetooth/portable.
I would second the recommendation for passive speakers, but for your use case maybe also consider slightly cheaper speakers than most around here would recommend, and pairing it with a sub.
Something like this sub or this
With a small amp like this
And then spend the remaining 120-170 on some passive bookshelf speakers [(a list)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3uoksp /i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/)
Someone else may help you narrow down which speakers. Edit: The Pioneer BS22 looks like a good option.
I'd be happy to help!
So these floorstanding speakers take speaker wire to carry sound and power to them. This can be done two ways:
.
Now, if you only need one place to get sound from one source (for example you ONLY want to run your TV to the speakers), look into a simple 2 channel amplifier. This will take an audio signal, and send it straight to the speakers, even simpler than using a receiver. Let me know if you have any questions.
BIC America FH-65B for $95 !!
BIC America F12 for $190
SMSL SA-50 for $70
And then you'd need some speaker wire and a 3.5mm to RCA cable (depending on your source)
I recently purchased this amp to use with my MB42X and it seems to be working pretty well.
I recently bought a pair of [Fluance SX6] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEDL8EM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a [SMSL SA50] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my office and I love it! They're large though, 9.1 x 13.5 x 8.3 in.
Well, nice is a relative term when spending $300 on speakers and a subwoofer. Its alot to ask for on that budget IMO, but it can certainly be done if it just plugs into a computer. /r/zeos has lots of good info, using his guide, I'd pick the Polk On-Walls for $100, Martin Logan 8" Subwoofer for $130 and an SMSL SA50 for an amp. You'll need banana connectors, speaker wire and a 3.5mm to stereo RCA for connectivity. That should be a good balance of sound. Don't get this setup without the subwoofer though, those speakers are designed presuming you have a sub, and will fit nicely on your desk, and the sub is small enough to fit comfortably underneath.
Ended up going with the Alpha Dog based on /u/ZeosPantera review with the SMSL SD793-II DAC/Amp.
A DAC's purpose is simply to decode the audio stream (usually PCM) and provide an analog output, outside of the computer, free from interference. Nearly every external DAC will do a better job than internal soundcards. They can be connected via USB, Coaxial, or Optical. If you have an optical/coax jack on your motherboard or existing soundcard, you are set. Otherwise, look for a DAC with USB input, and you will not need a soundcard on your PC at all.
When using optical/coax output from the PC, if configured right, the built-in soundcard does nothing to the audio signal. Ideally it's sending the PCM signal straight from an audio file or CD, to the DAC. A DAC in most cases is an external sound card.
A Headphone amp's purpose is to take the line-level input, amplify it and provide a volume control. A DAC/AMP does both.
With an external DAC you can expect less noise/hiss in the background, and if you can hear it, a better SNR (signal to noise ratio) or dynamic range. Most of the sound characteristics you will hear will be coming from your headphones or amplifier.
For PC audio, there are many combinations of devices. Some are combined DAC/AMP. Some combine a loudspeaker amplifier for desktop speakers.. You can get any combination. Some provide line-level outputs for chaining multiple devices together, or pre-amp level outputs allowing for a common volume control.
It sounds like you just need a single device solution for your headphones. Have a look at the SMSL SD793-II. This is a very nice DAC with optical/coax input (no USB), and a good headphone amplifier. It also has an RCA input for use with an analog source to feed your headphones. It also can be used as an RCA output from the DAC, so this DAC can function as a headphone amplifier, and feed a power amplifier for loudspeakers you might get down the road. I have one and really like it.
You can do this with a dac and 2 headphone amps, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A2QLPJM for the main https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NLX9PLI for the secondary. Hook the optical into the SD793, then run RCA from there to the SAPII. Get two nice comfortable pairs of headphones and you can each control the volume independently also.
I personally run this one with my SHP9500.
I'm using this with HD598 and there is huge difference with him and using just onboard audio
Looks like SMSL sd793 to me.
This gets good reviews and will drive your BDs just fine, I use this with my desktop rig.
What I can tell you that you will hear is clarity. You may not notice much else for a while, just listen to lots of your favorite music. You will not be disappointed.
That DAC doesn't come with an adapter for a 3.5mm jack, FYI.
I use a SMSL SD793-II for the same function. It's spdif or coax in only, but RCA out to my speaker amp which is nice. But yeah, I just leave my headphones plugged in and turn the volume down and the turn the speaker amp up and voila... Sound.
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM
BAM. Try it and if you don't...return it. I love mine- no issues.
I use it with my desktop, but it can be used with receivers, etc. Digital audio inputs (toslink and aux). Lots of transparency, flat. Reportedly better than the E10K (which I have no trouble believing).
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449543425&sr=8-1&keywords=sd793
In that case I would recommend the SMSL SD793II. It uses a 1/4 inch jack, but the 598 has an adapter for it.
This is closer to your price range. I have one of these and and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM
edit: I should have asked if you want to use it with with your PC, as this one has no USB connection. Might not be what you're looking for. I used it for connecting an optical from my TV or game console so I could have decent audio though my headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM
You can get a decent Dac/Amp for cheap. I use this this with my DT 770 Pro (80 ohm) and it works beautifully.
A little better ;-)
The SMSL SA-60 is fine for your budget but note that you can't plug headphones into it. You might want to look at something like the SMSL SD793-ii, which is a combined DAC/headphone amp, but tbh I don't know much about headphones so I don't know how good the headphone amp in it is. Also, the SA-60 plus the SD793-ii would be nearly the same price as the Onkyo TX-8020, which is a better speaker amp than the SA-60, though I'm not sure how the headphone amp in the Onkyo compares to the SD793-ii, and the SD793-ii has a DAC which the Onkyo doesn't, so... Anyway, lots for you to think about.
The only speakers you linked that I've heard are the Pioneers, and they are just ok (good for the price I guess) but tbh I think you should be looking at the next level up. Look into the Elac Debut range, Wharfdale Diamond range, Klipsch RM-15, Cambridge Audio SX, Q Acoustics 3020, etc. You might also want to consider active speakers like the JBL LSR305, though you'd need a separate headphone amp to run your headphones.
Will I see an improvement in sound with a dac/amp even though it would be connecting to the motherboard sound through s/pdif? The dac/amp I am looking at is this one
Can my current dac/amp drive the MassDrop 6xx?
Maybe you could instead get a optical splitter and a SMSL SD793-II. So then you can run your source into the splitter, then split 1 goes to your speaker amp+DAC, and split 2 goes to your headphone amp+DAC.
Wanting to get a new amp or AMP/DAC combo
Budget - $150
Source - Current source is a Fiio E10
Current Headphones - Hifiman HE-400
Preferred tonal balance - I like a warmer sound more than a bright sound.
Preferred Music - Everything. From Dubstep and DnB to Indie rock and metal.
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Just looking to change out my Fiio since the headphone amp section of it is dying.
Hey guys! So the headphone amp section on my Fiio E10 DAC/amp is starting to die. I'm getting weird thumping and clicking noises from it and sometimes it cuts out all together.
So now I'm on the search for a new amp. The DAC section and the output on the rear of the Fiio still works fine so getting a standalone amp instead of a amp/DAC combo is an option. Just not sure if the DAC in the E10 is good or not.
I also use the Fiio rear output to run to my speaker amp so maybe a new DAC/amp combo would be a better choice.
Right now I am looking at two things:
Amp: Little Dot I+ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QM5O6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA
Amp/DAC: SMSL SD793-ii : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_5&smid=A1V0149CC6WCAD
Any opinions? The SMSL is quiet a bit cheaper so I'll be able to get a set of velour pads for my headphones if I get that.
Not sure what you want to know but ill try my best to name everything I can think of.
Monitor 1: Benqxl2720z
Monitor 2: BenqGW2265HM
Monitor Stand: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C78QS68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
Microphone: Blue Snowball
DAC: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Speakers: Logitech Z10
headphones: Senheiser Momentum
Keyboard: WASD keyboard with Rosewill blue ABS Caps.
Don't buy PC speakers. Unless you spend a ton, they're junk.
This is a an absolute STEAL for these: Polk Bookshelf
The rest of your budget on this
Edit: Check thrift stores and second-hand shops as well. You can find some really good deals sometimes. I found a pair of Sony floor standing tower speakers that were in almost perfect condition and sound amazing, $20, at Goodwill (US only?)
So the best amp for ~$150? Probably the Yamaha R-S201.
Something like the Yamaha R-S201 would work fine.
Do you have any recommendations for receivers in that range? Are there any benefits to having a high end receiver such as sound quality? Woud something like this work? Thanks for the help
Yamaha S201 is prob your best bet for a budget receiver that you can keep using after you upgrade that TT.
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S201BL-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00F0H88SY
Buy the used Pioneer towers for $100, Dayton sub for $60 and a simple 2-channel receiver like one of these for $130-200:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H88SY/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE18O7W/
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktx8050/onkyo-tx-8050-80watts-x-2ch-network-stereo-receiver/1.html
The 2 Onkyo's have better connectivity options, especially the 8050. You can easily add a bluetooth adapter to any of these for less than $20 if you want to stream music. Same for adding a USB network adapter if you want to connect wireless to your network.
Ideally your amp should have MORE wattage than the speakers. So i would go higher.
Also, i would consider spending a little more money and not to buy the ultra cheap stuff. It will last you longer and you will enjoy it more because it sounds better.
Yamaha makes very good sounding amps/receivers for not a lot of money. This receiver for example gives you 100W and you can connect your computer, speakers, subwoofer and more.
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S201BL-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00F0H88SY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1457623254&sr=1-3&refinements=p_4%3AYamaha
Yes I just upgraded, I will give an update when my audio setup comes in. I'm going with Cerwin Vega VE-5M's, Audiosource Amp 100, Nuforce Headphone amp to go with my M50's and Bose AE2's, and I'll stay classy with a vintage Pioneer SG-505 from 1985. Don't worry, it's being upgraded ;)
I would allocate my resources differently. The speaker is going to have the most impact on your sound and should be where you are spending more money to get better results. Look at emotiva's flex amps to save some cash, or even audiosource. You can get a separate phono preamp with the art DJ Pre II if you need it.
So, that leaves you with $300-$800 for speakers. I would consider (in roughly ascending order of price):
Chane A1rx-c
Warfendale Diamond 10.1
Dali Zenzor 1
HTD Level Three Bookshelf speakers
Aperion Intimus 5B
SVS Prime book shelves
PSB Imagine XB
Bowers & Wilkins 685
Aperion Verus Grand Bookshelf
Golden Ear Aon 2
If you are open to adding a sub, you could consider a 2.1 package from Hsu: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/value2pkg.html
(or you could go with a cheaper option on this list above and add a SVS SB1000 sub to cover the low end)
Towers: Chane A3rx-c, HTD level Three Towers, or Klipsch RF-62 II (or slightly up or down the Reference II line; you could even consider Klipsch's reference II bookshelf speakers) if you don't mind the brightness (I don't care for Klipsch personally, but some folks love em).
Oh, I also have an AudioSource AMP-100 Stereo Power Amplifier that I bought new in January 2012. It's in pristine condition and pushes 60 watts per channel. I had it powering my Sony SS-B3000's. I recently upgraded to a home theater receiver, though, so I no longer need it. I'm hoping to get $65 obo. Photos
Two of these would be the "best".
This guy would be formidable.
This is all you need to make it hot.
This can run the things but be careful not to blow your speakers with clipping.
What you are looking for is an AVR or stereo receiver, not just an amp. An amp is simply a power source to drive speakers. If you want to play two sources at the same time, you'll want to find something that has Zone 2 capability.
Normally for a budget AVR, zone 2 will be an unpowered pre-amp out only that will require an analog input source. Then you need a regular 2 channel (or more) amp to actually drive the speakers. In my setup for music I use a chromecast with an HDMI audio extractor (to convert the signal to analog) and an Audiosource AMP 100.
No you do not need a pro amp. These speakers are extremely efficient. You could get away with a pretty cheap amp if you want. Nicer ones I might suggest are:
Behringer A500(a metric shitload of power)
Dayton APA150
Or the most reasonable: Audiosource Amp 100
Any of these amplifiers will do. And any of them can drive those speakers to impressive and damaging levels of sound.
Please be careful of your hearing and beyond that, be mindful of your neighbors. Then enjoy yourself, those speakers will be very capable of hosting parties.
A lot of people on here like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482
There's plenty of cheaper models out there that will work fine as well, plus more expensive ones. The cheaper ones do have a lot of varying problems with quality control, so you might end up with a dud and have to exchange it.
Check to see if your U-turn has one or not. If it doesn't, I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPRE-II-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482
It was a lot cheaper when I bought though, like $25 lol
I've had a 120 for 4 years now. It's a great turntable. I don't think it deserves the hate it gets.
Here's what you should do if you get one:
Learn how to set it up properly. There's plenty of info in the manual and online about this.
Don't use the built in pre-amp - you can get better preamps at Amazon for relatively cheap. I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJR482/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P0.Kxb4H025DY
If you're mechanically inclined, remove / bypass the internal pre-amp. If not, no big deal.
Upgrade the cartridge.
One thing to consider is that it's a direct drive turntable. That means not having to change the belt placement when you want to listen to a 45 rpm record or buying an additional speed box like some belt drive tables need. But, if it breaks down, repair is going to be trickier.
As I said, though, I've had mine for 4 years now and it's been great.
The ART DJPRE II gets good marks and is only $49 from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482
This is the preamp I use. Others here may (probably will) have a better suggestion.
Is this the ART DJPRE II preamp people often refer to?