Best hunting equipment according to redditors

We found 8,703 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting equipment. We ranked the 3,475 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Hunting game calls
Hunting & shooting accessories
Hunting dog equipment
Hunting & tactical knives & tools
Hunting scents & scent eliminators
Hunting trees & straps
Hunting apprel
Hunting game handling products
Game tracking & monitoring products
Hunting bags & belts

Top Reddit comments about Hunting Equipment:

u/defeldus · 136 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Hydroflask water bottle $20

O-light brass keychain flashlight - $20

Snowpeak titanium spork - $8

Kershaw Chill pocket knife - $15

Leatherman Wingman - $30

Logitech G502 - $40

Fisher space pen - $11

Park Tool MT-1 bike tool (handy for many tasks) - $10

u/darkcode · 99 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I'm a big fan of my Buck 110, a few Kershaw knives I have, Spyderco, and Benchmade.

Opinel knives are also great, but I find they have less utility than some of the brands I listed earlier.

u/Nastyboots · 70 pointsr/Bushcraft

The classic Companion is a sore dick deal - you just can't beat it!!

u/marlan_ · 36 pointsr/guns

AR = Daniel Defense M4 V7 with Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x scope.

Pistol = Sig Sauer P226 Legion-edition


u/Meih_Notyou · 33 pointsr/videos

Get a blademedic from amazon. Really simple, easy to use, lasts a while, etc.

Took my mother's 40y/o hunting knife from not sharp enough to cut anything to passing the paper test in all of like 45 seconds.

Theyre like $10 and amazing


u/rockydbull · 23 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have had a shitty week so I treated myself to a grab bag. Probably won't get anything super great, but I hear it is fun to sort it all out. Thanks Op.

Edit: Thanks for whoever gave me gold! Long story short, this knife will cut the nerve in your finger with the slightest slip up and will require surgical repair.

u/Elethor · 19 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Anything else I need to know to care for them? I just ordered one of these and an Opinel aside from keeping them dry anything else they need?

u/skinrust · 18 pointsr/preppers

You're asking a very broad question while looking for specifics, making it very hard to pinpoint an answer. I'll give my advice on bug out bag items.

The bag itself - Should be a solid backpacking bag. Keep it light enough that it's manageable. For a very fit individual, the max weight should be your body weight divided by 3. Most of us are not that fit, so adjust accordingly. It should have hip support, well stitched straps, several compartments and a way to attach things to the outside (molle webbing, carabiner loops or exterior straps). Should be weatherproof.
Water - Depends entirely on your location. I live in Canada - Land of lakes and rivers. I wont need to carry a ton of water all the time. I've got a sawyer squeeze as my primary water filter. The collapsible water bottles it comes with work great for water storage as well. Wife and daughter carry a lifestraw as backups. We have some iodine drops as well.
As far as water carrying devices go, i find nalgene bottles work great. Theyre light and strong, and come in various sizes. A canteen is great if you want to use it to cook over a fire. Its not a bad idea either to have a large (5 litre+) collapsible water container. They're plastic and light. I havn't used mine extensively enough to recommend.
Sharp Things - I've got a Kabar as my primary fixed blade. It's tried and true. Good metal, full tang. I've got a leatherman wave multitool. Carry it everyday on my belt. Super handy. I should really add a 3-4" folding knife to my pack as sometimes the kabar is too big, and the multitool is hard to clean.
I also carry a Cold steel shovel. I looked into folding shovels, and they didnt seem reliable. Moving parts means they're more likely to fail. I haven't used this one extensively, but the few times i have tried it, its done an excellent job. If your pack's too heavy, put this one in your car.
Food - Your typical protein bars, dried rice/bean mix, snickers, small jar of PB, oatmeal and dehydrated fruit. A small bit of olive oil packs a ton of calories and adds flavour. It's good to have a small container of salt and pepper, or other spices to add flavour. You can grab MRE's or those mountainhouse dried meals, but theyre expensive. If you regularly buy pepperettes or jerkey, stick some in your bag and rotate it out when you buy it next. Multivitamins can keep you up if youre not getting a ton of food, but dont rely on them. Bring any meds you need, as well as tylenol or aspirin.
Hygiene - Pack a couple rolls of TP. Toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant (chuck if too much weight), wash cloth, soap, soap for clothing, feminine products (if applicable), couple garbage bags (can separate dirty clothes), wet wipes, lip balm, hand sanitizer. Sun screen and bug spray in small bottles.
Clothing - Carry at least 7 pairs of good socks. Some warm ones if the location's cold. Extra shirts, underwear are essential. Pants/shorts and sweater are optional (besides whatever you're wearing). Stick your clothing in a waterproof sack. Try to keep only clean, dry clothes in there (no airflow + damp = mold).
-Paracord and rope
-Sewing kit
-Tent patching kit (if you have a tent or a tarp)
-Tarp (who saw that coming). Doesn't have to be massive. Just know how to set it up to keep you dry.
-Fire Source. Have many. Lighters are cheap, stash away a bunch (7?). The lighter leash is awesome. You should be able to find that cheap at a corner store. Storm matches, for when its rainy. I think these are what I got. You can light them in any weather, put them under water, and they'll still be lit. Not a bad idea to carry regualr matches in a waterproof container. Firestarter packets are great. I just soak cotton balls in Vaseline. Flint and steel is cool, but only useful if youve exhausted all other fire starting methods.
-Super Glue
-Safety pins
-Zip ties
-Light. Hand crank flashlight is awesome. If you have a battery powered one, carry spare batteries. The mini maglite has a belt holster. Those small LED flashlights are great too. Grab a few glowsticks.
-fork and spoon
-emergency blanket or emergency sleeping bag. Only useful if you're SOL.
-sleeping bag for your location. If its warm you don't need this. Can use a hammock or sleeping pad. Try and keep these small as they take up a ton of space.
-Compass. Useful if you have a map.
-Map of your location/where youre going.
-Signal mirror and a good whistle.
-Fishing supplies. I've got an emmrod. You can put a fairly small cheap reel on here. I've got the shimano ix2000. It casts a pretty good distance. Hooks, weights, bobs etc. Can all fit in small waterproof containers or camera film containers. Dont forget line! Mines already on the reel. A fishing vest gives you lots of little pockets to keep things in arms reach.
-First Aid kit. There's extensive lists online depending on how large you want it. Some gauze, band aids, polysporin, burn cream are a good start. Try and build it yourself, don't buy the gimmikey premade ones. Keep yours in a waterproof Tupperware container.
-Tiny roll of Gorilla Tape
-Games. Some dice and a deck of cards go a long way. Don't underestimate the value of laughter. If a sudden collapse ever happens, these might save you from depression.
-Headlamp. I've got this rayovac one (i think). Seems easy on batteries and has lasted a few camping trips. Haven't put serious use on it tho.
-Eating equipment. A mug and a small plate go a long way. A folding pan goes a long way, but is heavy. I would love to learn to use a pressure cooker over fires.
-Handkerchief or travel kleenex
-Bandanas. 3 of them.
-Bungee cords can be useful, but they run the risk of snapping and taking out an eye.
-Ziplock bags are handy. Keeps a lot of small things organized and dry.
-Pencils, Pens, notepad/book, sharpie.
-Hatchet is useful, but heavy. Take one if you can. The sven saw is awesome and hasn't broke on me yet.
-Spare pair of glasses (if applicable)
-Some sort of firearm is almost necessary. I don't have one yet, but i was planning on a 10/22 takedown. It's small and easy to pack. Bullets are light. If you need more stopping power than a .22, you're in a heap of trouble. Guns are not my specialty (can you guess), so ill leave it up to you
-In lieu of a firearm, you could grab a crossbow. If that's still too much, a good slingshot will do great.
-phone booklet and address's. In case your phone craps out and you cant charge it.
-A small windable clock is great. A solar watch is better. I think thats the one i have.

All this stuff is useless unless you know how to use it. Do your research, take some courses. Learn the necessary skills to survive, because that's what's really necessary. I like Les Stroud's (survivorman) book Survive!. Learn to tie knots, fish, hunt, forage, fight, build a fire in all conditions, etc.
If you have questions on the use of any of the above items, ask away. Any advice or suggestions, I welcome those too.

u/tehspiah · 17 pointsr/airsoft

I would recommend these guns, depending on your budget:

$60: Trishot shotgun(Might be a little hard for a 15 year old boy to pump Maybe not...)

$100: CYMA AK-47, one of the best airsoft gun for the price(Has battery and charger in the package)

$150-160: G&G Combat Machine M4(All of these guns come with a battery and charger in the package deal)

The following guns you will need to buy a battery and charger separately:

$200: King Arms M4

$250: Lonex M4

$300: VFC M4

Following gun only fits a 8.4v NiMh battery:

$400: Tokyo Marui AUG High Cycle (Will make all the other kids jealous)

PS: Most of these items are eligible for a discount coupon code unless otherwise specified on that page. Evike has a 18% off promotion going on, while Airsoft GI has a 16% off online purchases. Both these stores have a retail front, and Evike has an 18% off in store promotion as well, as Airsoft GI having a 20% off Thurday promotion in their walk in store.

u/Stormrider001 · 16 pointsr/BudgetBlades

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a great knife sharpener to use. I believe it has 15 and 20 degree angles.

There is an alternative(and cheaper) Lansky Turnbox That sharpens at 20 and 25 degree angles. These two systems are great to travel with.


If you want a beginner sharpening system you could get a Lansky System but if you ever get higher end steels you will need to upgrade to Diamond system. You will also need to get a Lansky mount or clamp. It also has a wide variety of accessories and stones.


You can also get Fixed angle knife shapener that is like an apex edge. If uses the same stone size so you could order upgraded plate sets at a cheap price.

The system that I have been using is the 5th Gen Sharpener. It uses the same stones and plate size as an Apex as well. The only downside is the that it takes forever to arrive from china.

u/turnoffable · 15 pointsr/gunaccessorydeals

Obligatory You need the .83" UTG mount to cowitness the TRS-25 on an AR

The cheaper version:

The lighter/nicer version:

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 15 pointsr/EDC

Dude...I'm sorry, but it's totally not. It's "440 series stainless steel" which means "440a stainless steel." General rule of thumb is with the exception of H&K knives, which are made by Benchmade, NEVER buy knives from a gun company. Ever. Those aren't an exception.

Here's a similar looking knife in about the same price range that's actually ...sorry to say it....good.

u/Raltie · 14 pointsr/Bushcraft

As noted, this might be worth a look OP. Personally I think you'll be able to use that knife you bought, but you'll find it will wear down or break. Not because it can't cut, but because it isn't designed for heavy use. Just keep that in mind. Anyway here's the Mora people are talking about.

Edit: and everyone in this sub has bought a knife just like yours (we aren't trying to be assholes, we just are naturally occurring assholes). There's a reason we're recommending something else.

u/RedStag00 · 13 pointsr/CampingGear

Everyone loves a Morakniv

u/everett916 · 13 pointsr/EDC

Typical Gig Bag:

  1. Laptop
  2. Chromecast
  3. 1TB Portable Hard Drive
  4. Flash Drive
  5. USB Hub and Ethernet Adapter
  6. Packable Rain Jacket
  7. Backpack
  8. Headlamp
  9. Screwdriver w/ Bit Set
  10. Zip Ties
  11. Paracord Tie Line
  12. Bluetooth Speaker
  13. Gloves
  14. Dual-Sided Sharpie
  15. Stainless Steel Sharpie
  16. Zebra F-701 w/F402 mod
  17. AAA Batteries
  18. USB-C OTG Adapter + Flash Drive
  19. Adjustable Cable Clamps
  20. First Aid Kit
  21. Advil
  22. Nail Clippers
  23. Mints
  24. CRKT Eating Tool
  25. Sunscreen
  26. Water Bottle
  27. Headphones
  28. USB Charger
  29. Multi-Tool Pouch
  30. Fisher Space Pen w/ Pocket Clip
  31. Leatherman Sidekick
  32. Flashlight
  33. Pocket Notebooks
  34. Kershaw Cryo
  35. Hank
  36. G-Shock Watch
  37. Pixel XL w/ Slickwraps Slate Skin
  38. Wallet
  39. Keys
  40. Electrical Tape
  41. Locking Carabiner
  42. C-Wrench

u/kkeut · 13 pointsr/UnresolvedMysteries

>a 3-inch blade is pretty small compared to other knives, except for the ones the children can use.

that's not really accurate. it's pretty much the most common size for a folding knife actually; in many states a folding knife with a blade over 3" can be considered a concealed weapon. plus, big knives are harder/heavier to carry and have no real use for the 'extra' length to justify the annoyance of carrying it. most adults who carry knives around with them (there are legit reasons) would have one of around this size.

the official BSA knife is 2.75". so is the one i have on my desk right now, which I'm sure many thousands of adults carry around.

u/Shwingdom · 11 pointsr/Skookum

It's super nice. It's a gigantic Lansky. The one thing that bugs me, is he's holding a Cutco, which have a lifetime warranty in regards to literally everything including the edge, yet he said he just goes out and buys another one....... Yeah, $20 shipping is way cheaper than buying another cutco......

u/45321200 · 11 pointsr/EDC

All this is carried comfortably in my 5.11 Apex pants.

u/ANAL_PLUNDERING · 11 pointsr/knives

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)

Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

u/JRogers251 · 11 pointsr/ar15

Built this rifle about a year ago. I finally got around to posting on here. This build was as budget as I could get without going too bare bones.


u/BillyNature · 11 pointsr/Bushcraft

This kind of folding saw is great for camp-scale stuff. And a nice 4" fixed blade knife that you can baton with is all you need to split it. I've heard this is a good starter knife for bushcrafting but I haven't got to use mine yet.

u/joelav · 11 pointsr/woodworking

another killer set of scales.

Can I make a suggestion? I read below you are using the Sarge kits - which run about 18 bucks. While the scales are awesome, the knife itself - well, it's not good. Garbage pivot, tip down, non-reversible pocket clip, 440C (gross) and an "ambidextrous" thumb stud which doesn't matter because it sould only be carried in the right pocket anyway.

For not a lot more, you can scale a really nice knife. The RAT II is very highly praised and recognized in the knife community and even though it comes with scales already, it's super easy to make scales for

u/DrawnToBlack · 11 pointsr/EDC
u/900_year_old_vampire · 10 pointsr/knives

dono about the engraving, the spyderco tenacious is a great EDC for this price point though. i have the same one with the black blade, carry it every day. really nice little folder

u/zombockalypsenow · 10 pointsr/knives

Oh man...where to begin? My problems with BudK are essentially two-fold. One is that I believe they deliberately mislead prospective knife buyers into purchasing low quality imported junk. A combination of clever marketing and very low prices makes BudK the Wal-Mart of knife merchants.

And two, its sort of a cultural bias. In the serious knife community, a negative connotation has become associated with people who buy from BudK. They tend to be referred to as Mall Ninjas and buy things that are tacticool.
I hesitate to describe the stereotypical BudK customer without using derogatory slurs, but i'm not sure how else to categorize the subculture. Lets just say that if you lived in a state with a large rural population, and you went to the county fair, I can guarantee somewhere you'll find a merchant stall selling BudK products at enticing prices, probably right between the velvet Elvis paintings and the guy selling weed pipes disguised as spark plugs.

which would be fine except that many of these poor misguided individuals fully intend to use this gear for serious self-defense purposes. With BudK gear in hand, they're more likely to injure themselves than fend of a potential attacker.

While BudK does indeed sell plenty of high quality knives as well, this does not appear to be the main source of their business. Good quality knives are expensive, and for many people the lure of BudK's absurdly low prices on a knife that "looks badass" outweighs any other argument.

For these reasons I choose not to buy from BudK, and I encourage others to do the same. There are tons of other knife merchants on the internet who are more deserving of your dollars.

Full Disclosure: As a much younger man I wasted a lot of money on BudK products, until I realized I might as well be flushing my money down the toilet for what it got me. I spent a lot of money on shit like this when I should have been spending it on knives like this instead.

u/martincline · 10 pointsr/Bushcraft

Condor Tool & Knife, Bushlore Camp Knife, 4-5/16in Blade, Hardwood Handle with Sheath

u/Publix_Deli · 10 pointsr/gundeals
u/limpingzombi · 10 pointsr/preppers

My personal EDC. I love this knife, and it's held up perfectly for several years now

Edit: downvoted for sharing my EDC? Never change, reddit

u/Connguy · 10 pointsr/misleadingthumbnails

Even better, post it to /r/knifeclub.

It looks like it might have come from one or both of them originally though. That's a Kershaw Cryo II, one of the most popular budget blades out there

Edit: Actually after looking closer, the longer clip suggests it's the original Cryo, not the Cryo II. They're very similar though.

u/HilariousMax · 10 pointsr/knives
  • ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  • ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  • ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  • ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  • ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  • ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  • ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  • ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  • ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  • ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  • ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^

    Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.

    You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.

    Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
u/vorgain · 10 pointsr/EDC

From what I can tell, for a "concealed" knife the blade limit is 4" - the 2.5" is only for on school grounds. So unless you're a student, you can get something with a longer blade.

And in that case I recommend the Ontario Rat Model II. It's $30 instead of $20, but mine has done me well for a few years now.

If you are a student, maybe go with a Kershaw Shuffle from Walmart or Dicks or something. My girlfriend has one of those and likes it well enough.

u/geetarobob · 9 pointsr/Survival

So buying a knife is completely subjective, if that Kabar suits your fancy then by all means purchase it. But here are some things you might want to consider for camping or general outdoor use:

  • That Kabar is a fighting knife. It is designed to be multifunctional but it is primarily designed for combat, same with the Seal Pup.

  • The handle on that Kabar is leather, which is fine, but it is one more thing that is susceptible to the elements that you will have to worry about.

    For what you're talking about doing any stainless Mora would suffice (I'm partial to this.) But if you want something substantial for under $70 I think you might check out any of Kabar's Becker series.

    Edit: For a sharpening system I really like this.
u/Tinyjay · 9 pointsr/knives

Arguable still one of my favorite knives I own. Simple, thin, light, really worth looking into. Kershaw Chill

u/RIAuction · 9 pointsr/gundeals

Correct. Bought one last time this deal came around.

$10 on Amazon got me one with an easy absolute cowitness. I see now that it is a whole $13. Haven't taken it out to the range just yet.

u/slasher0739 · 9 pointsr/gundeals

I have the same red dot and the .83" riser from utg makes it cowitness perfectly with my MBUS.


u/ElBomberoLoco · 9 pointsr/Bushcraft

I know this answer gets teased for being ubiquitous...but a great first knife in this arena is a Morakniv Companion. It's very hard to beat in terms of quality-to-price ratio.

Don't worry about a sawback knife....especially since you said you already have a good handsaw. I haven't seen one that saws worth a damn anyway.

u/ph0en1x778 · 9 pointsr/preppers

I have this knife and it is well made and reliable and great starter knife.

u/ShawnSaturday · 9 pointsr/knives

Is this what you're showing off, because for $22 I might join the club too.

u/iknowyoulovecats · 9 pointsr/EDC

Have it, love it. Especially cuz it's not just plain black

u/RedToby · 9 pointsr/knives

Kershaw 1555TI Cryo SpeedSafe Folding Knife

u/stylefish · 8 pointsr/knives

I'd suggest you save up a little bit more and get something more worthwhile. A Spyderco Tenacious can be had for $34, for example.

If you are dead set on a $20 knife, atomedge's mention of a Byrd Robin or even a Byrd Cara Cara 2 would be a good place to start.

u/zxj4k3xz · 8 pointsr/airsoft


For batteries you have a couple options:

7.4v lipo from Hobbyking (not sure on the exact one, but this should work) with Imax B6AC


9.6v nimh with smart charger.

Lipos are better than Nimh, but you do need the fancy charger and they require a bit more care. heres a good care guide for them. The benefits are the smaller size, lower price, last longer per mah, and are more powerful.

u/doomcrew2123 · 8 pointsr/knives

Other than the mora those are all pretty poor knives. Also see here.

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/ar15

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:


  • Vise
  • AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  • AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  • Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  • Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  • Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  • Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  • Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  • Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  • Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.


    That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:

  • AR tool
  • Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  • Roll Pin Punches
  • Vise

    If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.


    ^Edit: ^Formatting.
u/broken42 · 8 pointsr/airsoft

First things first, see if there are any fields nearby that have rentals. Go out and play with a rental before dropping $500, last thing you'd want to is spend that much money on a loadout only to find you don't like playing airsoft.

Now that being said, $500 is actually a very reasonable starting budget. I'm already going to assume that you have a good pair of boots, if you don't then you def are going to want to add that as something to purchase. So I have a basic loadout, it's going to be 3 different stores because airsoft retailers are an awful place to buy lipo batteries. A lot of these items I've either owned or know people personally who do.

So let's start off with the basics.

  • The G&G CM16 SRXL - It's a step up from their basic Combat Machine lineup, but still sub $250. It has a basic MOSFET from the factory that can be programmed to shoot either full auto or 3 round burst when set to auto. One negative about the MOSFET is I've heard reports of it burning out on 11.1v lipos, so stick to 7.4v ones for now. It is going to shoot just below 400, which makes it perfect for field play. It is a keymod rail, but the one downside is it's "airsoft spec" keymod so keep that in mind when buying keymod accessories. Overall it's a great gun for the price and very much a good starting gun.

  • ALTERNATIVE ICS PAR MK3 - This gun is on sale right now, down from $340 to $214, so if you can get it while it's this cheap then it's a steal. ICS guns are tanks and they are very easy to work on down the line due to their split gearbox design. My first gun was an ICS CXP-16 and it is still running for the dude who bought it from me to this very day. You may need to drop a new spring in, but again due to the split gearbox that's super easy.

  • G&P High RPS midcaps - Great mags for a great price. The will handle damn near any ammo and any rounds per second you can throw at it. They are a bit tight in some guns, you might have to give your mag a bit of a love tap to get it to lock in, but at the same time that means there is very little mag wobble. 5 mags is more than enough for your basic open play. If you're wanting to go to longer events down the road, you can just buy another set of 5 and you're golden.

  • G&P CompM4 Replica - I use this red dot on my shorter M4. It's got a great build quality, comes with a kill flash to keep your scope protected, and takes AA batteries. That last bit about taking AA batteries is my favorite part, I am awful about forgetting to turn off my red dot and it's nice to know that it takes a very common battery.

  • LBX Lock and Load Chest Rig in Project Honor - The LBX Lock and Load chest rig is one of the most underrated chest rigs on the market. It can hold damn near anything you'd need for a day of playing. It's very easy to take off and put on thanks to the large zipper up front. It has plenty of padding in all the right places to keep you comfortable throughout the day. It's overall just a great value. The Project Honor camo one being only $25 is an absolute steal, I personally picked one of these up when I saw that price and it's well worth it. It may not be the prettiest camo out there, but you can't even come close to that quality in the $25 price range.

  • Krytac .25g BBs 4000 count - Great BBs, never had any issues with them feeding. It's one of the 4 brands of BBs I will use in my rifles.

  • 6mmProShop 500 round speedloader - A nice, basic speedloader. Better than the smaller pistol mag sized ones since you don't have to fill it up after every freaking magazine. I had one of these for a while, only reason I don't still use it is because someone stole it at an open play. A step up would be the Odin Sidewinder but that puts your budget over $500.

    All of this with the Free3Day coupon code puts you at $410.

    Now we get to protection gear (and a charger)

  • Pyramex I-Force Dual Pane Goggles - Great pair of budget priced goggles. I personally use these on longer games or days when I just don't feel like running my larger goggles. For anyone that doubts the quality of these Valken rebrandes them for their Zulu goggles and charges almost twice as much.

  • OneTigris mesh lower facemask - Better than the full mesh ones because the cloth on the sides conforms to your face better. There is still plenty of padding on the cloth sides to protect your face and it gives you a better cheek weld on the rifle. Only complaint I have is they do tend to get a little hot if it is very hot outside, but that's the tradeoff for protection.

  • Tenergy lipo charger - Nice, basic lipo charger. You'll need this for the batteries I'm linking later. I use this charger personally, haven't had any issues with it yet.

    If you have Amazon Prime, that put's this portion to a total of $53. Overall we're at $463.

    Now for the batteries. I always suggest HobbyKing for purchasing lipos, they have by far the best prices on lipos. These 1200 mAh 2s nunchuck lipos should work great for your gun. Lipos are going to give you a better trigger response than NiMH batteries. I'd order two of these, which are about $13 total. Shipping will cost you about $9.

    Overall total: $485
u/canadian_camping_guy · 8 pointsr/Bushcraft

mora companion is an inexpensive and extremely reliable bush knife. You can get it in high carbon steel or stainless depending on your preference. Its really hard to beat for the price. I have take used and abused mine and its still holding up very well.

u/jepyang · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

The wilderness is probably where you need self-defense tools the least of anywhere in your life, but if that aspect is important to you, I won’t argue it any further.

That said, it’s a bad knife. Just cheap tacticool crap, not meant for any serious use. It’s liable to fall apart mid-use (one of the reviews even mentioned the locking mechanism failed resulting in injury). Can’t imagine much worse than trying to defend yourself and cutting your hand on your own faulty knife.

Something like a Morakniv is cheap but sturdy and well-made. Would work well for both camping uses and self defense (keep it on your belt and you don’t even have to flip the blade open to use it). Saves an ounce or so and is a massive upgrade to practical capability.

Alternately, a SAK Classic and a small thing of pepper spray is similarly cheap, saves 2-3 ounces, and is probably more effective for self-defense than a cheap flippy knife.

u/Kilo353511 · 8 pointsr/bugout

Here is what would use for $100 USD. All prices are via Amazon/Wal-mart

Pack: OutLander Lightweight Day Pack - Cheap, Lightweight and would get the job done for a GHB ($18)

Cutting: Morakniv Companion - Cheap and Mora makes some of the best knives ($12)

Combustion: Storm Matches ($6), All-weather matches($0.75), 2 Bic Lighters($2), and some Wetfire($6)

Cover: 3 Emergency Blankets($2)

Container: Back pack listed above, 6 bottles of water ($3), Single layer stainless steel bottle($7)

Cordage: 100 Feet of 550 ($6), Duct tape ($3)

Candlelight: 2 LED Lights ($4-12)

Consumables: 6 Cliff bars ($6), 3 %-Hour Energy ($6), Bag of trail Mix ($6)

Clothing: 2 Extra Pair of socks ($2), 2 pair Gloves ($7), 2 Hats ($10)

Communication: 3 Road Flares ($6) Signaling Mirror ($3)

Cash: $40-100 is recommended but this is optional.

Everything I have there (Cash excluded) should cost around $120. You can save money by making your own Wetfire with cotton balls and petroleum jelly. And the food can probably be replaced with cheaper items. I just put stuff I am comfortable with. Same is true with the flashlights, you could grab 4 of the $1
Wal-mart lights they are great for short term use and would cut out another $8.

Buy stuff in bulk when it is available too this will cut down cost.

Something every car should already have, but it worth the extra $10-20 is a small first aid kit or 2.

u/mvmntsofthemind · 8 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Can't beat a $14 Mora Companion, comes in stainless or high carbon. Comes shaving sharp.

u/desertUsuf · 8 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Mora Companion. The value on these knives is pretty nuts, I keep thinking that prices will eventually go up because you get so much blade for the money. Great carver and slicer due to the scandi edge, and the carbon steel blade it tough and can take light batoning without issue.

Watch a few reviews online, pretty much all raving, and for good reason.

u/rusty075 · 8 pointsr/Bushcraft

For the money, it's hard to wrong with a Mora. Amazing value in a darn tough and well-made knife.

u/PapaShane · 8 pointsr/EDC

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

u/Brotaoski · 7 pointsr/videos

May I recommend Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Works amazing and has a fool proof way for not fucking your angle up. There’s an add on stand item for like $5 that helps make the process even easier.

I have used it on my pocket knife and kitchen knives.

u/drkaeppel · 7 pointsr/knives

There are a number of ways to get it sharp again. Instead of buying stones, some people use sandpaper glued/taped to a hard surface (a block of wood or brick..etc) and sharpen the same way you would with a stone. Lansky also has really effective sharpening systems that are reasonably priced.

u/PoundTownUSA · 7 pointsr/interestingasfuck

I have a sharpening system that lets me choose one of four angles. It's branded as Lansky.

The second link is a stand for the knife clamp. It works really well to get super sharp edge, even without stropping.

u/lethpard · 7 pointsr/knives

It takes away an excessive amount of steel. I've seen my in-laws grind away an decent butcher's knife in a couple of years that should have lasted a lifetime, and it doesn't do a very good job.

edit: The Lanksy jig system is another inexpensive alternative that requires little skill.

u/ZombieKingKong · 7 pointsr/EDC

get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:

-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).

-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.

-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.

-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.

I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) thumb hole deployment - speedsafe - thumbstud - flip

Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).

These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.

u/gimmelwald · 7 pointsr/Survival

Becker Bk7 You will never look back and regret the sub $75 pricetag.

u/chuckthetruk · 7 pointsr/knives

As you may or may not have recognized, this is the Condor Bushlore. Its blade is .125” thick made from 1075 carbon steel. The handle scales are walnut and the pins are brass (I think). The sheath is leather with stainless pins. These pictures are what it looks like after a weekend of extremely hard use in very damp conditions—I’ll talk more about this later. I took the pictures right after I cleaned it back up, and re-sharpened it.

I have been collecting knives for a while, and have quite a few, but did not own EVEN ONE fixed blade. I had a camping trip in the Finger Lakes region of NY, so I decided to pony up a whopping $31 and order one off amazon. When it arrived, the overwhelmingly positive reviews for the sheath were confirmed (it feels very high quality) as were the so-so reviews for the fit and finish of the knife itself. If you are looking for a fixed blade knife that is great to look at and fun to fondle, this might not be the knife for you. There is noticeable staining on the uneven handle scales, the pins and lanyard holes have grind marks on them (but are smooth to the touch), the grind is not a true Scandi (the blade had a secondary bevel when I received it, but it’s not a big deal, because I re-profiled it anyway), and the primary grind is actually uneven (this was brought out when I re-profiled it, one of the pictures shows this), and it came incredibly dull (hence the re-profiling).

So, how did it perform in the field? Very well! On two consecutive nights, in very damp conditions, it batoned through logs almost as thick as the blade is long, split about 9 bundles worth of wood (no-one had a hatchet) and performed other, less strenuous tasks like making wood shavings for kindling, carving tent stakes, and opening food packages etc. It was very comfortable to use, and held a good working edge for all of this. Now because it is carbon steel it did develop some significant surface rust, but that cleaned up very easily in just a few minutes.

In closing, this is a great camp knife for an incredible value. If you can get past the cosmetic imperfections, it’s an awesome little knife.

Let me know if you guys have any questions!

u/mrmax1984 · 7 pointsr/gundeals

This riser gives perfect cowitness.

u/ktmrider119z · 7 pointsr/airsoft


But if you want one that just works, the red only Fieldsport on Amazon is great at $20.

Next step up but still budget would be a Bushnell TRS-25. Less glass tint, and all around better quality for $50.

Youll want this riser with either one.

If you eventually want a quality real steel Optic, look for the Vortex Strikefire, Vortex Crossfire red dot, Vortex SPARC AR, or the Sig Romeo 5. All can be had for about 120 if you shop around. Vortex optics have fantastic warranties.

If you want some magnification, i eecommend the monstrum 3x prism sight. Let it be known though, that the sight adjustments work in reverse.

u/nubbinator · 7 pointsr/gundeals

If you're an absolute cheap bastard, Amazon Warehouse also has them used like new with original packaging for $39.51. Grab this riser for full cowitness or the 1" for 1/3 cowitness.

u/Tyler9400 · 7 pointsr/Bushcraft

Edit: Just realized your looking for an EDC Knife. To split kindling? My post revolves around your first knife to go out into the bush. An EDC knife should just a small folder for when you open those fancy amazon boxes. Don't need a fixed blade knife for EDC purposes, but if your gonna be out in the woods messing around I'd follow what I said.



IMO a Mora companion should be your first knife. They are 10 bucks. The one linked is a carbon steel version, if you are gonna be around water a lot get the stainless steel version. The stainless steel version will rust dull quicker. Edit: Was a typo, it definitely wont rust quicker lol. Get it if you are around water because it WONT rust, but the edge will dull quicker, this is why knowing how to sharpen in the field is important. I mean you can get through a day with a dull knife, but it's never fun.

This won't be the best knife in the world, but it's the best beginners knife, it can do all the basic tasks and work well for $10, so if you smack a rock, chip it somehow or end up messing it up when sharpening you can buy another one. Practice sharpening! This is a big one, you don't want to get a $100 knife and mess up sharpening it - anything is fixable but you don't want to do that with an expensive knife and start taking off too much steel and what not.

I'd recommend a Mora companion, and whatever sharpening method you want. A decent, cheap stone is the Fallkniven DC3. There are better stones - but they require oils (or water) and you have to go through two or three types of stones and all these other things. Not to mention they are heavy and bulky. DC3 is small and you can take it with you.

If someone else wants to go more indepth on other sharpening methods and stones, please do so, I've had the same ones for a few decades and am not up-to-date on the tech.

Also strops, I had a local leatherworking shop make one for me, I've never found good ones online, or good leather to make your own. If you are familiar with good ones, feel free to link them.

u/Arimil · 7 pointsr/CampingGear
  1. Tent: Eagles Peak II Two person tent -
    -This was generous gift from my SO's mom. It may not be the best tent out there, but at free it can't be beat.

  2. Sleeping Bag: Marmot Aspen Minimalist 40 -
    -Got this for its small size and light weight. Future winter camping trips are a possibility, in which case I plan on snagging a wool blanket of sleeping bag liner.

  3. Sleeping Pad: RidgeRest Classic -
    -Simple basic sleeping pad, I've been using these since scouts and have wanted for nothing more, especially because of its light weight.
    -In the event of winter camping, is this enough to insulate from the ground? If not, what could be added to my sleep system to keep me insulated from the ground?

  4. Cookware: Pot Pan stackable combo -
    -Lightweight and simple, these were cheap and seemed straight forward.
    -They stack with the majority of either piece's empty space facing each other, allowing for decently dry storage for matches etc. inside.
    -Comes with a tight fitting mesh ditty bag

  5. Small Camp Grill - Coghlan's Camp Grill -
    -Another straight forward and cheap piece,
    -This is really an optional piece, I plan on bringing it along on trips with big groups or when cooking meat is in the cards.

  6. Plates x2: Coleman Enamel plates -
    -These are the camping gold standard in my book, been using them since scouts.

  7. Stuff Sacks x3: REI pack of 3 Ditty Sacks 2, 3, and 7 liter. -
    -Came in a decently affordable combo pack, plan on using them for food/toiletries storage and bear bags.

  8. Knife: Morakniv Companion Straight Knife -
    -Love this little knife, cheap but durable and was a shaver straight out of the box.
    -Came with a super thick plastic sheath

    9)Hatchet: Estwing Hatchet -
    -Heard this was a classic, people say they've still got the one's their grandfather's used. It's heavy, but I'm happy with the tradeoff.
    -Got it sharpened well enough to cleanly slice through paper at the moment

  9. Axe Sharpener: Lansky Dual Grit Sharpener -
    -Great sharpener, pretty much the go to field sharpener from what I've gathered.
    -Only took a couple minutes to learn how to use, the only hard part is consistently following the bevel through each stroke, but it gets easier.

  10. Camp Towels x2: Microfiber quick-drying towels -
    -Very great, medium size towels with their own tote

  11. Collapsible Water Jug: REI 2.5 gallon collapsible water jug -
    -Seems great, picked it up at REI physical store then read reviews and got spooked, we'll see though, a minority of the reviewers swear by it.
    -Just in case it sucks, any suggestions for a collapsible water container of equal size/price?

  12. Water Bags x2: 33 oz Bag style canteens -
    -These came free with my water filter, and they have many good reviews. If they do well, I may buy some extras.

  13. Wine Skin: 2L -
    -More showing of my primitivist ass, and I thought I could take some weight off of my SO by carrying enough water for the two of us.

  14. Pillows x2: Field and Stream -
    -Got these a long time ago when I knew less, they are pretty bulky and my first item I want to replace

  15. Pack: Kelty Redwing 50L Black
    -SO's mom gifted this this Christmas, so amazing and thoughtful, one of the best gifts I've ever gotten and I love the color

  16. Shoes: Skechers Trail Runners - I found these at the thrift store for a stunning 12 bucks and they fit perfectly

  17. Lighting: Outlite Lantern -
    -Pack of flashlights (might not bring all four) -

  18. Extras: Tarp as groundcloth, some extra stakes.

    Items not shown:
    -Always a tin or bag of Drum Tobacco and papers
    -Kindle, old generation one
    -Collapsible trowel
    -Burlap shoulder bag for gathering kindling etc

    Items still wanted (suggestions greatly appreciated):
    -Knife for SO
    -Work gloves
    -Plastic flasks for booze
    -Belt pouch
    -Higher quality tarp
    -Knife Sharpener
    -Sleeping bag liner or wool blanket
    -Any food suggestions!
    -Rain cover for pack
    -Smell proof food bags

    I don't have much experience outside of scouts, so I'm very open to critique of my setup. I will warn that I am very much into primitivism, and camping for me is a gateway to a backcountry, esthetic lifestyle I one day I hope to live, so some of my gear choices may not always be the most efficient. Any advice from a primitivist or purist standpoint is doubly appreciated.

u/hybaric · 7 pointsr/VEDC

You should add a few basic tools, screw driver, wrench, and fixed blade knife if this is for a VEDC. I also always keep duct tape and a few zipties in my car. Zipties are super handy for quick fixes and repairs like engine hoses coming lose etc.

A sturdy inexpensive knife to add would be something like a morakniv

u/Jwolt1 · 7 pointsr/EDC

Hey all! I'm a 15 year old sophomore and this is my EDC. During school I don't carry my knife (for obvious reasons) but everything else I do carry with me. Here is the complete list of all my stuff.

  1. Fidget spinner from Gadget Pro.

  2. Expedition Field Notes.

  3. Kershaw speedsafe folding knife.

  4. Field Notes brand pencils.

  5. Field Notes space pen.

  6. Wallet my aunt got me.

  7. Lamy Safari, limited edition neon.

  8. Apple brand Earpods.

  9. Apple iPhone 6s (took pic with it).

  10. Tech 21 phone case.
u/classy_barbarian · 7 pointsr/Survival

I worked as a cook for 10 years and it gave me a very strong appreciation for blade sharpening. Truth is, blades get dull real fast. And you're extremely correct that a dull blade is extremely hazardous. It seems counter-intuitive, but you have to use so much more force with a dull blade, and that makes accidents way more likely.

It also made me notice how most TV and movies never show warriors sharpening their swords. In real life, when swordsmen were between battles they had to just be constantly sitting around sharpening their swords, it's gonna be duller than a butterknife after one battle. But Game of Thrones actually handles this well, you see characters sharpening their weapons all the time on that show.

Also, on your point about sharpening a saw, the best way to do this is to use a tool made specifically for that. What you want is a tool called a tapered/serrated sharpener. There's one included in this product called the BladeMedic:

Definitely a good idea to have one of those things in your survival gear bag.

u/ARKnife · 7 pointsr/knives

For those requirements and as a first knife I'd recommend getting the Ontario RAT II, as it is inexpensive, has good quality, great for campwork is overall a great entry-level knife (my first knife was the RAT 1, the larger version).

If you would like to get a knife designed especially for UK legal carry - check out the UKPK by Spyderco.

u/flafferay · 7 pointsr/EDC

You'd be surprise how often you need a knife. I recommend getting one.

I'd recommend The Rat or a Swiss Vic.



u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

u/armchair · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Lansky sharpening system can be had $35. You can get your stuff really sharp with that.

I don't have any brand recommendations for a set of whetstones or diamond stones, but you can easily spend something approaching $100 to get going.

And you can always use a piece of glass and wet/dry sandpaper to get stuff sharp. The method is called scary sharp iirc. Not really bifl though, you'll go through the abrasives.

u/Oxidation_State · 6 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Which model leatherman do you have? I love my skeletool cx, but it has the blade on the side which you said you don't like.

As far as legality, that's up to you to figure out length restrictions, open/concealed carry restrictions, your school's policy, etc.

Check out the Spyderco Tenacious: Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife

Or search for any Kershaw branded knife...for the price, you'll be satisfied. You aren't gonna find much in the way of quality if you want a multitool in that price range.

u/BoredDellTechnician · 6 pointsr/splatoon

Can't go wrong with a Spyderco Tenacious for the money.

u/GunDefender · 6 pointsr/politics

You don't need a permit or background check to buy this either:

But it is also a lethal weapon, not a toy. Same with this:

So I don't think that a background check is what makes the difference between a toy and a weapon.

It is true that kids typically don't get shot for holding a baseball bat or ball, but they can get shot for making a sudden movement which the officer interprets as agression, even if they are unarmed. Brightly colored guns are no replacement for knowing how to act properly around police to avoid being seen as an imminent threat.

u/massbeerhole · 6 pointsr/knives

I have several KA-BARs and love them all.

I love this one for camping:

This one is always in my car (next to a small KA-BAR tanto, and SOG hatchet):

u/sampling_life · 6 pointsr/knives

I have the esee 5 (very similar to the BK2) and it is a big bad boy. the quarter inch thick makes it a beast at spliting via batoning or chopping. down side... it has a big fat edge that can kinda feel bulky when doing finer work... Honestly, I would look into a cheaper (yet very good blades) like a Mora or a Condor Bushlore... my pick would be the bushlore b/c of the grind and full tang but Moras are very good.

Then from there after using those blades a lot you'll get an idea of what you really want in your next blade.

u/the-crooked-compass · 6 pointsr/EDC

Pictured (Counter-clockwise):

u/wizang · 6 pointsr/ar15

People might shit on UTG but in this case its probably as good or better than your red dot so who cares, you're not going to be able to use it that low.

u/UA_Rowan · 6 pointsr/airsoft

Nothing wrong with either, but overpriced--the charger is $20 and an identical battery with Tenergy branding is $12.

u/ErroneousBosch · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

Even cheaper in Carbon Steel

Edit: or carbon with a thicker blade

u/beefstew809 · 6 pointsr/camping

Some people are very particular about their knives and what they use them for but I think that everyone should own a Mora. It is a very sharp knife that can be used for food prep all the way to just carving or whittling. The plus side is that they are light weight and they are cheap! Do yourself a favor and pick one up (it doesn't necessarily have to be the one that I linked).

u/SWEET_GHANDIS_TITS · 6 pointsr/knives

I would suggest the [Kershaw Clash] ( It is a respectable size but not too big, has a liner lock, is half serrated if desired, and opens with Kershaw's "spedsafe" spring assist. All for only around $30.

Edit: also the adjustable pocket clip could help with it opening in his pocket.

u/NathCraft27 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

u/Zickefoose · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

This. Or an Ontario Rat 2 if you prefer a smaller blade.

u/scurviest · 5 pointsr/Survival

My opinion:

Don't buy that Smith's thing. Scrape together a few more pennies and get a Lansky or Gatco sharpener. E.g.

I have a Gatco that has 3 diamond and 1 ceramic hones but they work on the same principle. They are nearly foolproof and reliably produce insanely sharp knives. I put a 30 degree bevel edge on a machete that was sharp enough to shave with, cut down a tree with that machete, and in a few more minutes returned the edge (which was still pretty sharp) to that same scary sharp level...and I did it within minutes of unpacking the thing which means minimal learning curve for some of the best results I have seen.

u/jibberish_kid · 5 pointsr/knives

I have this. It is amazing. everything I own I can shave with.

u/desertsail912 · 5 pointsr/AskCulinary

I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.

u/Jonesaw2 · 5 pointsr/Charleston

Buy this. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Super easy.

u/EvilDoesIt · 5 pointsr/knives

I think the most idiot-proof sharpening methods are either the Lansky System or the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

I own both and I must say that I prefer the Sharpmaker more. It gets you to a shaving sharp edge in minutes. The Lansky takes more time but I think you will be able to get a sharper edge. More time meaning maybe hours for the initial reprofile.

If you want to learn to freehand, the Smith's Arkansas Tri-Hone is a cheap way to go to experiment. It gives you two decent sized Arkansas stones and a synthetic stone for just over $20.

u/dclutter1 · 5 pointsr/EDC

Microstream The clip on mine is different but I think this is the same light. Love it.

Spyderco Tenacious Easily the highest value knife I've ever had/seen. I cut and pry the shit out of stuff with this knife on a daily basis.

u/marsrover001 · 5 pointsr/airsoft

Needs to be posted. The uber beginners loadout.

wombat machine

Mag x3

bb's x2


Goggles, or find ess on ebay

Lower mesh



Belt system (also get the matching chest rig free with gun)

Find some clothes at wal-mart, camo pants and a t-shirt is fine.

Total should be ~280ish Dump the rest into deans, tbb, shims, motor, red dot, foregrip, etc...

u/1fifty7 · 5 pointsr/airsoft

Starter Guns:

Tippmann Commando: 150$

G&G CM Series: 100-250$

CYMA AK Series: ~100-200$

Classic Army EC-2: 185$, a bit overpriced but hey, its tan.


Charger and a 9.6v battery: 34$

Don't forget eye pro. I use Revision Desert Locusts, but ESS goggles are great as well.

u/willogical · 5 pointsr/Bushcraft

You might consider the Condor Bushlore, especially if he's just getting into bushcraft, or even at an intermediate level.

Edit: I also agree that the Mora Classic is excellent and at the right price point, but I think the Condor Bushlore is also an excellent value and is in a few ways a step-up from the Mora. Its full tang, larger, and has an excellent leather sheath.

u/WontDieIn_A_Hospital · 5 pointsr/knives

condor bushlore

If you're willing to spend 200 then go custom although at that point you're only getting style.

u/wikkid7798 · 5 pointsr/knives

Kershaw skyline

Kershaw chill

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

u/PhenomenalDouche · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

How about the Kershaw Chill? It's thin, light and cheap, and I generally prefer it in every way to the Skyline.

u/Russell_is_kool · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw chill. Cheap, light, slim, good kershaw f&f.

u/duckduck-goose · 5 pointsr/Gunsforsale

Are all of these brand new?
Looks like the handgun ones have plastic wrap but wasn't sure about the long gun ones.

Amazon is selling some of these/similar products for similar pricing.

Here's a cheaper version of the AR mat.

u/Foxman50 · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Its actually a gun cleaning mat, but its exactly the same material as any normal mouse pad! Amazon Link Here

u/firesquasher · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

For that money id buy another ar15 gun cleaning mat

u/JamesDReddit · 5 pointsr/ar15

I went with the cheap utg. Zero problems. Perfect cowitness. What's not to like?

u/J1024 · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Why won't they work with the QX7? My QX7 takes a balance lead.... so no, it won't use the barrel connector, but that shouldn't matter.

As far as the charger goes, I'm not sure what that has off hand. For the longest time I've used this:

It charges just via the balance plug. Very slow, but never ran into an issue with it charging anything up to 4s.

As mentioned above though, charging at least LiPos can be dangerous. Most people bunker them or just make sure to watch them while they're charging. Joshua Bardwell had a good video about chargers that helped me understand more about charge rates and such.

Good luck!

u/Simsense · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

You can find super reviews on just about any Mora knife at Amazon, but here's one example:

u/gizram84 · 5 pointsr/Survival

Honestly, just get this Mora for a fraction of the price. It's an incredible knife.

u/Lurkndog · 5 pointsr/Survival

Especially when you can get an actually good knife for not that much more.

A Mora Companion is 14 bucks, and pretty solid.

If you want a cheap folder that doesn't suck, there's the 3.95 Tan Flipper from Wal-mart.

u/M4d_Martigan · 5 pointsr/france

Ben perso j'ai beaucoup appris de youtubeurs comme Survival Lilly, TA Outdoors et MCQ Bushcraft, il y aussi des français comme Chartreuse Nature ou Blackwolf Chris (plus brut de décoffrage, mais que je recommande pour les gueuletons qu'il se bricole dans la forêt), et on trouve de nombreux sites et ouvrages sur le sujet.

Question matos si tu randonne sérieux tu devrais avoir le plus important, mais il faut surtout un bon couteau (ce qui ne veut pas forcement dire cher, le MoraKniv Companion est un classique très robuste qui coute environ 15 boules), voire une hachette si tu veux beaucoup construire, et les essentiels de la rando (trousse de secours, popotte, tente ou hamac, tapis de sol, etc...). Perso je m'équipe beaucoup en surplus militaire, c'est bien moins cher, souvent plus robuste et plus pratique que du Décathlon de luxe. Après tout dépend de ce que tu veux faire, si t'a des questions n'hésites pas!

u/Broke_Beedle · 5 pointsr/knives

Definitely don't get that.

Mora is the best budget knife you can get. It will take a beating and it's affordable.

Not sure about folder brands if that's what you're looking for.

u/muddypaws · 5 pointsr/Ultralight

It's not exactly Ultralight but at 3.8 oz / 110 gr. You get a good quality fixed blade thats inexpensive. Morakniv Companion

u/Ouroboron · 5 pointsr/MaliciousCompliance

I tend to carry either a Kershaw Clash or Kuro. I've found the half serration incredibly handy over the years, and pretty much won't get a carry knife without it. The spring assisted opening on those two knives is also really useful, especially if you're doing something one handed.

u/theNightblade · 5 pointsr/EDC

You can do really well for edc gear you listed for well under $350.

u/emarkd · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

Good idea but do keep in mind that different steels respond very differently to the stone. Really cheap steel will usually be quite soft, maybe even too soft to properly sharpen without it "smearing" or rolling over.

Maybe start with flea market junk, but consider something like a $20 Kershaw Cryo as an intermediary step. Its a lot better steel and will give you good practice, but if you really booger it up and can't fix it, you're only out $20.

On the other hand, if you find you can properly maintain the edge on that Cryo you'll have no problem with just about anything else you want to try, plus you've got a really good entry-level folder as well!

u/po_toter · 5 pointsr/army

Fuck I'm too drunk to fuck with cherries, so I'll just give you the answers.

u/Implikation · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The only thing about that particular steel is that it's carbon steel, not stainless. It will change color over time if you don't put oil on it.

Edit: some other options are this Spyderco or the Ontario RAT, if you are interested in more tactical designs.

u/Nimitz87 · 5 pointsr/EDC really hard to go wrong with the rat for the price it's an amazing knife and the opening is one of the best, it beats some of my knives costing 5x as much. it is my edc knife of choice.

u/emjaysea · 4 pointsr/lansing

It's not true that we sharpen our own knives here in Michigan. Most of us just have dull knives. But you don't have to, you can buy one of these instead., and then watch this video showing how to use it.

Seriously, it's easy!

u/VaguePeeSmell · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

No. V sharpeners like this pull out the carbides in the steel out which means that it will lose its edge very quickly.

You want to use water stones or a guided system like a [Lansky sharpener](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/Prospero424 · 4 pointsr/houston

If you're sharpening a fine, expensive blade, I can't stress enough that you should do it yourself. I used to send my knives out for sharpening with a handful of services, some of which were expensive and had excellent reputations. Sometimes they would come back great, sometimes they would come back absolutely BUTCHERED. One time it looked like they had sharpened it on the machine they used for lawn mower blades.

Anyway, there's no substitute for a good, multi-stone sharpening system. If you've got a lot of commodity blades to go through (like if you run a restaurant kitchen), by all means use a service or use a motorized sharpener like the Work Sharp (I own one and use it regularly).

But if you want the finest edge you can get and you want to really take care of a nice, expensive chef's knife; sharpening in a way that won't mar the appearance or take off too much metal each time (like the Work Sharp is known to do), a multi-stone kit is the way to go.

I've always used the Lanksy kits and absolutely love them. Here's an excellent general-purpose kit:

And don't worry, it's super easy to get the hang of. The guide included will take care of the angle for you, which is the hardest part. And there are short videos out there that detail the process, if you need them.

u/mrflarp · 4 pointsr/knives

I wouldn't recommend using pull-through sharpeners. A set like the Lansky Deluxe or the DMT Aligner would be a better option. They have a easier learning curve than freehand sharpening.

For kitchen knives and pocket knives that are mostly doing slicing or push cutting, I'll aim for 20 dps in general, or if the steel can hold a stable edge at it, around 15-17 dps w/ 20 dps micro-bevel. For cleavers or choppers, something around 25 dps will hold up better. If you can, a convex edge will also hold up better for choppers.

As for the fire steel, don't use the sharpened edge of your knife for that. Use the spine. If the spine isn't squared off enough, use some sandpaper or a Dremel to create a small flat spot you can use for the fire steel.

u/umop-apisdn-wa · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Here it is on Amazon

u/Mrsneppa · 4 pointsr/knives

Maybe a buck 110 if he needs the pouch, but personally I prefer the ontario RAT 2

u/greath · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Lol, alright for example:

  • Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.

  • Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.

  • Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.

  • Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.

  • Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.

  • Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.

  • Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.

  • Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.

  • Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.

  • Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.

    There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
u/stanti · 4 pointsr/knives

Spyderco Tenacious. My current EDC and one of the most frill free knives I own.

u/-BW- · 4 pointsr/Survival

Leatherman sidekick is a great multitool. $45.

For just a knife the Spyderco Tenacious is a fantastic folder for the price at $35.

u/SmellySlutSocket · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

For a few more dollars you could go with the spyderco tenacious which as far as I can tell is basically just a larger version of the one you picked out.

u/annoyingone · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

There are a lot of Ka Bar knockoffs. Even the new ones are very solid

u/Maelbolge · 4 pointsr/thewalkingdead

Think most TWD knives are customs. That said its a USMC Ka-bar with a tanto blade.

u/broccoli_basket · 4 pointsr/battlefield_4

ive demo'd one in real life before. They sell them as conversion kits or as a solid ar style crossbows. theyre really cool but id rather just have a normal crossbow. If they were to add anything knifey i'd like this kabar knife/prybar It could serve utility purposes and still cut down the enemy. It has been well praised in the field, and in the reviews.

u/_Logo_ · 4 pointsr/airsoft

[CYMA CM028] (

[Tenergy Smart Charger] (

[Tenergy 9.6v butterfly battery] (

A little over budget, but that’s the cheapest I could do for a gun that’s actually good. Don’t forget face protection. ANSI Z87.1+ full seal goggles and a metal mesh lower face mask. I would suggest a pair of Pyramex I-Force goggles and a OneTigris half mesh mask. That’s what I use and it’s great.

u/Craig · 4 pointsr/Bushcraft

The Condor bushlore might be the sort of thing you're looking for.

u/jassack04 · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

u/fromkentucky · 4 pointsr/Bushcraft

You can also buy a 1075 Carbon Steel Condor Bushlore for $35.82 on Amazon.

It's a little less brittle than 1095, but that just means you'll get a little more practice with sharpening, and your blade will be less likely to chip or break.

Really, it depends on your preference of Stainless vs. Carbon Steel. Boker makes good knives, Stainless is just a bit more difficult to sharpen, but it won't rust.

u/SamISaubrier · 4 pointsr/Survival

The Condor Bushlore is another great knife in the thirty-forty dollar range. Heavier and more robust than a Mora, but still a pleasant looking, non threatening blade. The leather sheath is a nice bonus too. I love my moras, but i can't help but think of them as a little disposable.

u/geraldm8 · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw Cryo
/ Kershaw Cryo G-10

Kershaw Chill

Can you be a little more specific on what you prefer? Flipper/non-flipper? thumb stud/thumb hole/thumb disk? assisted/non assist?

I had a Spyderco Persistence for a while. Its good, but not great like the Tenacious.

u/Expensive_Kitty · 4 pointsr/knives

The Buck Lux Pro is pretty sleek, as is the Kershaw Chive. My "dress" knife is a Kershaw Chill which looks nice and is really affordable, but isn't made of premium materials or have a premium finish.

u/EMCoupling · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The exact one.

Search "TekMat" on Amazon for a ton and pick your favorite gun.

A lot of people like to use them as mousepads because they're pretty much the same as the cloth gaming mousepads, but you get more area for cheaper.

u/superdelux86 · 4 pointsr/gundeals

> Tek Mat


u/fuckitsfixed · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Has anyone here ever used a gun cleaning mat as a mousepad? Considering they are just as big and about half the price of a "gaming" extended mousepad.

What I was thinking

u/Econolife-350 · 4 pointsr/gundeals

You might not like my answer but the cheap UTG .83" on Amazon for like $8 has done everything I could ask of it. If name brands don't bother you too much it's worth a shot.

Edit: I lied, it was $7. For that much what's the harm in trying.

u/MarcusDohrelius · 4 pointsr/gundeals

get a riser to bring it to a height of a decent cheekweld. something like this

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/Survival

Here. Carbon steel is easy to sharpen and holds an edge well. It does rust though so you need to keep it oiled, and it's not a bad idea to force a patina.

If you're worried about rust, you could get a stainless steel one, but they don't hold an edge as well. They also don't strike a spark off a ferro rod nearly as well as carbon steel, and IIRC they won't strike a spark off flint at all.

u/alc6379 · 4 pointsr/knives

I'm pretty happy with my choices, and they come in right under $200:


u/mozetti · 4 pointsr/camping

I bought a Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, Military Green, 4.1-Inch a few years ago. I use it for meal prep because it's fixed blade and about the size of a kitchen prep knife. The Amazon site shows its use for camping tasks, too.

EDIT - just saw this has been recommended a few times already. Must be good!

u/sMSneakyPete · 4 pointsr/halo

For those interested... the actual knife!

u/mroystacatz · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Here are my personal essentials.

  • Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  • Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  • Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  • Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  • Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  • Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  • Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.

    Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.

    P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
u/jacobtx · 4 pointsr/BudgetBlades

It’s not a cleaver or sheepsfoot style, but this is another excellent option

u/Zerv14 · 4 pointsr/EDC

Off the top of my head things that are cool and don't break the bank:

Kershaw Cryo

Spydero Tenacious

Leatherman Wingman

Streamlight Microstream

Gerber Impromptu Pen

u/Chevy_Fett · 4 pointsr/Cooking

If you want cheap, and beginner level, try the Lansky blademedic

I use it in the kitchen when I’m in too much of a rush to use my whetstone. It’s one of those credit card types as you call it. I also have one for my non cooking knives. It’s made specially for quick sharpening, but it’s a bandaid. Whetstones are much better on the steel than this.

It can sharpen and hone, and even get the serrations. Whetstones are definitely the way to go, but have a learning curve to get angles, pressure, and positioning correct, and takes some patience.

u/CalibanRamsay · 4 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

Easy solution:ärfer-Blademedic-290008/dp/B0085PPSIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527358948&sr=8-1&keywords=knife+sharpener+camping

Gets every knife sharp enough to work with them in minutes.
And I guarantee you, the blade will not be worse than before.

u/freeshavocadew · 4 pointsr/knives

Well, first, congratulations on becoming a LEO. I am not one myself, but I have had a few convos with them and I'm going to start by giving you a couple of things to consider. The first one is, this knife will be a tool, right? A tool is used for all sorts of tasks, some it wasn't intended for like prying, scraping, or breaching/otherwise opening something that wouldn't the best tool for the job. One LEO I spoke with mentioned having to use his knife to do some limited demolition to a couple of walls in a trailer to find drugs. Stabbing through sheet rock, hitting studs, and nails and shit like that. I might suggest having a small pry bar as, you know, your tool that rides with at least, maybe find a belt pouch or way to carry it on your person. Better to have and not need than need and not have on this. Another thing, you might consider starting off with a more affordable knife, a beater. There are several reasons - tools you have on the job can be damaged or lost, and with a cheap beater you won't cry when that happens, you may need to hand it over as evidence in an investigation (used in self defense, etc.) and handing over your favorite knife can be painful even if you do eventually have it returned to you, you will already know about how LEOs and lawyers are not your best friends and having a big ol' scary knife may raise an eyebrow or two even in your position, and FINALLY there's the fact that you may be required to loan your knife out or use it in such a way that would ruin it. Any time you loan a tool out, it's great to expect to be returned in the same condition, but it's not always the case. Additionally, you may find you need it for an emergency, like in a vehicle fire or such a thing, mostly I'm imagining fire-related emergencies. A lot of knives are made with plastic scales which will melt all to shit but is technically still able to be used. This is unlikely, I know, but you're more likely to be there than me, so it is what it is.

After all that, I do have some recommendations!

Kershaw Clash - currently listed at ~$22, it's a fair knife for the money. It's spring assisted opening, a little larger both in size as well as handling (bad for finer cutting manipulation) but would be a great knife to get started with and treat as a beater. Would also serve as entry level EDC and would get you a lot of quick handling experience for the type of knife you'd actually want to get!

Kershaw Blur is a really well known knife by the knife community, combining quite a few really nice points at once. Currently listed at ~$58 (this model), this is also a great knife for someone looking for an all arounder. The blade steel is a little better than the Clash and several other offers from the cheaper side of knives, the scales are really comfortable for medium to large hands, and it doesn't break the bank. In my personal opinion it's probably one of if not the best knife for the money.

Kizer Vanguard is a different blade shape than the previous two, a much more classic style with a drop point. Currently this is on sale for ~$44 and this knife has a variety of handle colors available, which I think is neat. Based on my EDC use, it seems to be quite nice!

CRKT M21-12G has a few variations available with a similar size offered there as well as plain edge versus serrations. Personally I find serrations difficult to sharpen so I avoid them on my knives, but your mileage may vary. This knife is currently ~$46 and is worth it. This is a thicc chunk of steel with a thiccer handle even though the steel liners are milled out. Having taken it apart and put it back together a few times, I find this knife very easy to clean and service.

Ontario Knife Company Rat-1 is no frills and a solid knife. This is currently selling for ~$22 and is worth every penny. There's a few different models with the price varying quite a bit but overall it's below $40. This knife is a large chunk of metal with the scales and thick plastic liners too. However, there are etsy shops that make more custom liners that might be less chunky. Will likely cost more than you paid for the knife, but eh, whatever. This will be harder to lose, I think, since it's so large.

I hope one or more of these suggestions is helpful!

u/king_human · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

The Tinker is a great knife. If you were so inclined, you could get a Tinker and an Ontario RAT 2 and strill be under your $50.00 budget. The RAT series is an excellent choice (I have a RAT 1 and have given many away as gifts). I didn't mention it earlier, as you had already done some narrowing on your suggested knives. Any way you go with your eventual purchase, I think you'll be satisfied, as you've picked out some very good EDC knives to choose from.

u/Tadashi047 · 4 pointsr/knives

The CRKT Drifter [Stainless Steel Handle] [G10 Handle] is a good choice, like the poster above suggests. The Ontario RAT-II and Kershaw Clash are other great options.

u/the_names_Dalton · 3 pointsr/Austin

These Lanksy sharpening kits are legendary. I've used mine for years for both hunting & kitchen knives.

Here's an awesome instructional video for the Lanksy kit.

u/Kayanota · 3 pointsr/knives

If you are looking for a knife, head over to a site like this and just check out their sale/clearance blades. I linked to a stainless steel one that has a good shape for cleaning fish.

If he really is a knife guy, then he will have personal preferences, so a blade might not be the best.

I would suggest picking up a Mora HD Companion (~$20 with sheath) which is my all time favorite outdoor blade. A Custom Strop (~$45) there are a lot of custom makers of those here (see other comments) and a sharpening system (If he doesn't have one, a Lansky is an excellent field sharpener for ~$40, otherwise a 1k/6k stone for ~$30. )

u/barnacledoor · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

I have to say that I avoided getting a wetstone for a while. I just bout this stone recently and found it was pretty easy to sharpen using it. To be fair, my knives were pretty beat up and dull before I sharpened them. So, I bought a pretty low grit stone. The only thing I'd recommend is getting something at least a little higher. Now that I've sharpened with both the 250 and 1000 sides once, it doesn't seem like the 250 side will be of much use anymore unless I want to change the edge angle entirely which is not likely.

It took about 10 minutes for my 8" chef knife and some other 5" knife that I found under my kitchen stove when I bought my house. :)

I've heard that the Lansky sharpening system is pretty easy to use, but the one common complaint is that it gets a bit tough for larger kitchen knives. There is a stone in it for serrated knives as well.

u/sandmansleepy · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

A couple whetstones is just about the simplest that you can do, one coarse and one fine. I like using traditional whetstones, and I get great results, but when I am lazy, I use a guided sharpening system of some kind. Pull through sharpeners destroy your blade, making nicks into bigger nicks. Don't use those. I use a spyderco sharpmaker or a lansky system when I am lazy, and for people who don't want to spend hours and hours getting good at freehanding with whetstones, these are probably the best options. Links are below.

If you have more questions, or are truly interested or into knives, come check out /r/knifeclub

u/bov-tye · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

You are very lost right now, it will all be okay.

First you need to understand what sharpening, honing, and maintaining are.

Sharpening = setting a bevel, restoring the edge
This includes taking out chips, reprofiling the blade ( reprofiling is taking the current edge angle and changing it, say 30° to 20°)

Honing = refining that edge and adding a micro bevel ( a micro bevel is adding a slightly more obtuse angle at the very edge, this increases wear resistance and improves performance )

Maintaining = stripping ( this can be done on most any porous material, well get back to stripping )


I don't recommend that someone new to sharpening start with bench stones, you can really mess up a blade if you don't follow the proper technique.

There are many systems that can do this whole bevel thing for you, you just need to follow the instructions.

This is a well regarded system that will reliably produce sharp, and consistent edges

Now, stripping;
Stripping is for when you roll an edge, or if it's not
Blunt enough for sharpening, it's also for refining the edge.
Stripping on leather is not always a good thing, leather is to some degree soft, it will give just a little and it can blunt the edge.

I personally strip on wood, there is little to no chance of blunting. I use basswood and pine.

> the higher grit the better...

Yes and no. It all depends on what you're cutting.
Some people love toothy edges ( not taken to a high grit)
While I love polished edged ( taken to high grits )

Bench stones are usually just larger.

My version is a little crappy, but check out /u/atomedge for a good one, Link for atomedge's guide

EDIT: I saw my mistake, I'm keeping it.

u/RikVanguard · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've had a lot of luck with the Lansky Sharpening system. I also recommend the little spindly mount if you don't have a vice. It isn't really necessary, but I find it makes sharpening a lot easier.

There are a lot of videos out there, but this is the one that helped me the most. I know it's not recommended to sharpen a knife by moving the stone backwards (from tip to handle) but I've tried to replicate his methods and had fantastic results.

That said, it takes some practice to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply and what motions to use. It took me about a month of not-really-sharpened knives to realize that I wasn't using anywhere near enough force with the coarser stones to form a burr. This guy outlines how to feel a burr pretty well (the whole video is a bit long, but definitely helps with some little tricks.) I also run my nail along the length of the blade to feel for a fully-formed burr.

Other than that, just keep practicing and trying new techniques, and find what is most comfortable and efficient for you.

u/SerenityNowPlzz · 3 pointsr/knives
u/BarryHalls · 3 pointsr/knives

finish off with

If you find yourself sharpening a lot of different knives you'll want

it moves the steel faster (for changing the edge the first time) and the stone holds up longer.

Long story short, it gives perfect consistency and has the super fine stones for giving that polished razors edge. It makes sharpening anything UNDER 6" a dream.

For knives LARGER than 6" I use

with various ceramic belts from

It's also GREAT for doing convex conversions. Doing a flat grind on a concave edge takes a steady hand or a jig.

Practice on wood and scrap steel. You'll RUIN a blade in a HURRY with those coarse belts.

If the blade gets hot it will burn the steel and you will lose it's hardness. Dip it in cool water, dry with a towel, often. The tip is the most delicate part. Only grind for a second or two, then dip again.

u/Maximum_Ordinate · 3 pointsr/Hunting

Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).

Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.

Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.

Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.

Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

u/CPTherptyderp · 3 pointsr/Cooking

What's your opinion on this kit? Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/thingwrecker · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I use this: and an old leather belt for a strop. My hands aren't steady enough for traditional stones and this seemed like the best bang for the buck.

u/Roketderp · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm not an expert either, just sharing some things I do.

Oils from your hands are technically bad for the steel, but it's not the end of the world. Wipe your knife with a cloth with a little bit of WD 40 every once and a while.

For sharpening, I like the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. I didn't think it would see much use, but now I sharpen my knives all the times. General consensus is that it's awesome for smaller knives, but sucks for big ones (anything over 5" in my opinion)

To get the little rust spots you mentioned out, just use some steel wool.

EDC knives are tools. They get used. Don't worry about if it's pretty or not. I use my SOG Trident for random things about every other day, and I have since I got it over a year ago. The Kershaw Skyline is an excellent knife.

Google "EDC Knife Care" and I'm sure you'll get tons more answers.

u/diversionmary · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

That's what /r/knifeclub is all about! Enjoy! Consider using that extra $30 for a lansky 5 stone sharpening system.

Edit: definitely check /r/knife_swap too. There are lots of great knives for cheap

u/BrewerMan · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

I determined a few weeks ago that my knives were too dull and I wanted to sharpen rather than buy new ones. After much research I got this Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System and the Super Sapphire Sharpening Stone to add even more of an edge. I have sharpened 2 really crappy knives (no-name cheap ones from WalMart) with pretty incredible results. They are much, much sharper than new.

The system is very easy to use and ensures that you keep the same angle at all times. the one knife was very very dull and it took about an hour to get it to a point where I felt it was sufficiently sharp. Both knives I have sharpened with this system can easily pass the magazine paper test and can very easily shave hair off my arm.

u/McWatt · 3 pointsr/knives

Can't go wrong with the classic Buck knife that your Pakistani knife is a knockoff of. It's classy, functional, and it won't hit your wallet too hard.

u/karn_evil · 3 pointsr/knives

They are not all that expensive, here it is for $33 on Amazon.

u/free2game · 3 pointsr/knives

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

u/zapatodefuego · 3 pointsr/knives

This looks like a copy of the Buck 110 which is a solid knife. I'm not sure which came first though.

u/jamin101wolf · 3 pointsr/EDC

A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.

u/rollingalong · 3 pointsr/EDC

A better question for r/knives. Depending on your budget, I can make a number of recommendations. If you're not looking to spend a lot, check out Kershaw and some low-end Spyderco models.

I would look at:

u/UrzaJR · 3 pointsr/knives

I felt the same way before I got a spyderco, now I love the damn thing. The hole is incredibly functional. You might want to try a Tenacious, its only 30 bucks.

u/dont_be_an_arse · 3 pointsr/malelifestyle

I carry two knives a lot of the time. Almost anytime I've not carried one of them I've been in a situation where I needed one.

u/Graybeard · 3 pointsr/knives

For camping, between those two I'd go with the Skyline. I've got a Leek, and I love it, but the slim blade seems a bit delicate for camp site use.

I bought a Spyderco Tenacious for camping. It's a good-sized, sturdy folder that's not so expensive that losing it would ruin the trip.

u/scc1515 · 3 pointsr/EDC

The Spyderco Tenacious is a great knife for under $50.

u/jsamhead · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Ooh. $25 is tough. There are so many good options for $30-$35...

Here are a couple options around $25


CRKT Pilar

And here are some options around $30

Kershaw Atmos

Ruike P801

Sanrenmu Land 910+

Steel Will Cutjack 3 Inch and 3.5 inch

Buck 110 Slim

And some $35+ options

Kershaw Link

Kershaw Dividend

Spyderco Tenacious

u/Kromulent · 3 pointsr/knives

My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.

Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.

u/Buixer · 3 pointsr/EDC

Here are some affordable options.

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black)

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife

JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black

Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery

u/fappolice · 3 pointsr/EDC

If you are on a budget. I would recommend a Tenacious. Most people on /r/knives would agree as well. If you aren't on a budget I would look at the Benchmade Griptillian or Mini Griptillian. Both are extremely solid choices.

u/chodemessiah · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm in IT as well and perform very similar tasks. I use the Spyderco Tenacious for everything. It's easy as hell to sharpen and the flat ground blade takes a wicked sharp edge. It has stainless steel liners, but they're skeletonized so the knife is still pretty light. The G-10 is nicer than the stuff I've got on knives that are well past the hundred dollar price point.

As for draw speed, you can do a bootleg wave using zipties. Here's mine. Best $30 I've ever spent.

u/ThrowawaySergei · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'm rather fond of the Spyderco Tenacious.

u/macbooklover91 · 3 pointsr/EDC

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

u/bearules · 3 pointsr/videos

/r/knives is a great place to ask this kind of stuff.

This is a great knife that I EDC and its only $35. Perfect starting knife.

u/5picy · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This is over 15, so it's not giftable in this contest, but my weirdest item is this fighting knife. I just want it because I feel like a knife is a useful thing to have. Not as a weapon, just as a tool. I like to camp. Also I'm afraid of bears. And zombies. (You never do know.)

My fave April Fool's prank I played was on my dad. First I stuck a funnel in the front of my jeans and a quarter on my head, and told my dad, "I bet I can get this quarter down the funnel." Then I tilted my head forward and it went into the funnel and down my pants. I did this a couple of times then told him, "Bet you can't do it!"

So he puts the funnel in his pants and the quarter on his head. ...And then I pour a glass of ice water down the funnel and into his pants. XDD

He was SO FREAKING MAD. oh my god. Hahahaha. He lost it. My mom and I were dying laughing and he was furious with both of us. He couldn't admit it'd been funny for four or five years. XDD

An embarrassing fact about me is that I once didn't have a pad with me in high school when my period started, so I used a folded paper towel. Later on I was walking down the hall and the bloody towel fell out of my underwear (I was wearing a skirt) and onto the floor in front of everyone at class time change. Egads!

u/edheler · 3 pointsr/preppers

That is a very large knife, almost 17" long, which is a bit big for my tastes. My favorite at the moment is a Gerber LMF II but the ubiquitous KA-BAR is also hard to beat.

u/tomchuk · 3 pointsr/ps3bc2

Aw fuck, you just sicked Boooohjoke on me, must feel nice to be out of the crosshairs for once.

I will contribute a prize. To anyone who can take my tags 7 times (the number of times I took soundnerd's tags) in a match without being knifed by me, I offer a brand new KA-Bar to commemorate the occasion.

u/lo4952 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

This one and a whole bunch of others like it.

u/Dark_Shroud · 3 pointsr/mallninjashit

Yeah I have a Ka-bar 1245 and love it to death.

These are the next two knives I'm planning to buy from Ka-bar:

KA-BAR TDI Hinderance

Ka-Bar BK3 Becker Tac Tool

And to be honest I probably will buy their Tactical Spork.

u/Ihjop · 3 pointsr/battlefield3

Amazon link

>A design collaboration between Ethan Becker of BK&T and John Benner of TDI, the Tac Tool smashes, bashes, prys, hammers and cuts. It is equally powerful at lifting stubborn hinge pins, prying open doors or windows, and hammering out glass as it is efficient at cutting 550 cord.

The closest thing you will find.

u/Dogwithrabiez · 3 pointsr/mallninjashit

Let's see...

Kershaw Camp. Great kukri style blade on a budget that performs excellently.

Kershaw Cryo. Hinderer design for a cheap price! Small blade, but feels big in the hand. The Cryo 2, the larger version, will be coming out soon.

Moras. 1095 carbon steel, strong and used to do a lot of good things in the woods. Very tough, very sharp, very cheap.

At higher prices, the BK2

And of course, the tried and true classic Kabar

A few to get you started, though, with knives, you generally get what you pay for. Generally, you'll want to figure out exactly what you want in knives, especially in how you use them to find the best deals and blades.

Collecting knives is an expensive habit that ends up going into 500 dollars knives and 1k customs. ;) Budget and collecting don't mix!

u/phig · 3 pointsr/knives

so BK2 or BK7?

Anyone have experience between the two? For camping I want a big ass knife that can take a beating, and both look like they can do that. I have a kabar USMC. Do I need to buy another knife?

u/termanader · 3 pointsr/preppers

I am a huge fan of my Ka-Bar BK7

u/chiko032 · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Thanks for the suggestion! One more question for you, if you don't mind: I'm good using this battery with the Krytac, right? -

u/voraidicon · 3 pointsr/Survival
u/Gullex · 3 pointsr/Survival

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

u/AManAPlanACanalErie · 3 pointsr/BSA

Not a big fan of a knife with a concave belly for any of the tasks you need in scouting. I think a drop point or scandi will see you much better. I'm a big fan of either a Morakniv or ([this].

u/kodemage · 3 pointsr/knives

The Kershaw Chill is a pretty decent cheap knife. I got mine for $16 on sale and it's only $20 on amazon right now.

u/xbuzzbyx · 3 pointsr/knives

I was thinking something similar.
1 Ontario 8848 RAT
2 Kershaw Chill (A bit slimmer, lighter, and sleeker than the Clash)
3 CRKT Drifter G10

I just bought the Chill, and I love it! At 1.9 oz, it's half the weight of the Clash. The locking system is nice and smooth. I loosened the tension a little so I don't need to flick my wrist, just a quick trigger pull on the tab. So far, nothing I can complain about.

u/scaldinghotcarl · 3 pointsr/ar15

It's a TekMat and they're pretty neat.
They make a bunch of different ones too.

u/400HPMustang · 3 pointsr/guns
u/Therealslb · 3 pointsr/ar15

Amazon. TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat

u/2lean4 · 3 pointsr/guns
u/akavino · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Your wallpapers made me think of this series of gun cleaning mats, which someone here was using one for their setups:

u/Cazmir09 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

also won't move around the way small mouse pads do. I have a Medium Razer Goliathus and that stupid thing keep slipping around cuz it doesn't have enough friction with the table. I'm going to look into getting one of these bigass mousepads. I think for the price this is the best bet as it seems many many people use it.

u/price1869 · 3 pointsr/ar15
u/lunchbox1911 · 3 pointsr/ar15

UTG Medium riser from Amazon did the trick for mine fyi. Fit good, solid as well.

u/justagook · 3 pointsr/gundeals

You can also get a utg med riser off amazon for around $8. Those will cowitness with these on AR

link for lazy

u/edventure_2025 · 3 pointsr/gundeals

I have it on this. It makes it line up fairly well with the irons when I flip them up.

u/cawpin · 3 pointsr/gundeals

Great little red dot, stands up to .458 Socom recoil. I have them on a bunch of stuff.

Edit: UTG medium riser

u/LiberalPewPew · 3 pointsr/SocialistRA

Agreed, I have this mount, and it co-witnesses the TRS with the iron sights wonderfully. It hasn't moved since I installed it either.

u/Sweet-And-Sauer · 3 pointsr/ar15

Since you bought Bushnells I'm guessing you're buying on a budget, but this is a pretty good budget riser for a lower 1/3 co-witness.

Or if you want an absolute co-witness...

u/impid · 3 pointsr/airsoft

The fieldsport optics are fine for airsoft guns. You might need a scope riser, such as this

Don't know what you mean by you think the front sight will protect the sight.

Edit, oh you mean from bbs. Sure theres a chance but it's a 15 dollar sight.

u/ExcaliburCsGo · 3 pointsr/airsoft
u/SeaMunchers · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I have the Cm16 raider 2.0 just get this battery it works fine for me and for the charger get this one it also works fine

u/camobit · 3 pointsr/Pennsylvania

first and foremost, find a hunter safety class and take it. there is an online option now but I really recommend going to an in-person class. I did this when I was 11 or 12 and remember some very experienced old timey hunters explaining everything. we even got hands-on experience with some old 22's and got to shoot them at a range.

they will cover most of your questions, and will go over gun safety and how to hunt safely (identifying your target, whats behind your target, etc). They should also cover the basics of field dressing (removing the organs out in the field).

If you want to hunt deer you're going to want a rifle of at very minimum .243 caliber (preferably higher, i hunt with .30-06). Hunting rifles as of this moment cannot be semi-automatic although there is a real possibility this will be changed by next hunting season. (Even so the most common AR-15 which is .223 caliber is too small for hunting deer.) A .270 is a common whitetail caliber, big enough to take down a deer but not going to kick as hard as .30-06 or .308.

When you buy your hunting license, it comes with one tag to harvest an antlered deer. The rules of what makes a deer count as "antlered" vary from region to region but for most of PA it requires at least 3 points on one side. The paperwork you receive will also have a form you must mail in to your county treasurer to apply for a doe tag. The doe permits are limited and the earlier you apply the better your chances are. A doe tag is only good for the zone you applied in.

If you want to hunt rabbits and birds such as pheasants or turkey you'll want a shotgun. Most people would hunt with a 12 gauge but if you've got a smaller frame you might want a smaller gun (16 or 20 gauge). Turkey requires a tag similar to a buck, which are included in your regular hunting license.

Ducks require a special stamp you can buy when you purchase your license, and there are rules about the metal in the shot shells when you hunt waterfowl (it can't contain lead).

if you're interested in squirrel hunting you can use a shotgun, but the more challenging way to do it is with a 22 rifle. This is a very small and inexpensive bullet.

If you've never handled a gun you're going to be nervous carrying it around with a shell in the chamber. The best thing you can do is take it a range (such as these) and go through a few boxes of shells practicing. A State Game Lands range is free to use as long as you have a hunting license. The one by me usually has a game commission officer there who would be happy to answer questions. Just practice, learn where your safety is, be aware of where the muzzle is pointed, and keep your finger out of the trigger guard. Also protect your hearing! You will need hearing and eye protection at the range!

you need to wear orange on your head and chest/back for most seasons in PA, the exception being some archery/muzzleloader and turkey hunting. Just get a hat and vest and you'll be fine.

Other gear: knife (I prefer a small fixed blade knife to a folder for cleaning deer; less places to get hair and gunk stuck), lighter, maps, emergency whistle, emergency blanket, drag rope (to get the deer out of the woods), rubber gloves (so you aren't a mess after cleaning a deer), and I bring a spare phone battery.

Like any other adventure in the wild make sure people know where you're going and when you should be home.

u/StandingByToStandBy · 3 pointsr/castiron

Well, I have an idea for now. I travel for a living, and spend a lot of time in hotels. I'm going to be building a cooking kit for my car that just sits in the truck for times like this.

Currently I have (1) 12" cast iron pan, 1 coffee maker, 1 Morakniv, a cutting board, and a pair of tongs.

I'm missing about 99% of the shit I need, but hey, gotta start somewhere.

u/Daoism · 3 pointsr/knives

Personally I wouldn't head into the woods without a fixed blade knife. That's just my personal preference.

The obvious answer that a lot of people will give you is a Mora. These people are correct. It's a crazy sharp knife, well made and for $14 you could use it for one hiking trip and it'd be worth it.

If you're looking for a folder to carry all the time. Any of those you listed would be good. There are like a million choices for folders in the $20-40 range. Just stick to a good brand and find one you like the looks of.

u/Gonzoguard · 3 pointsr/EDC

On the cheaper side, Gerber MP 600.
Gerber MP600 Multi-Plier, Needle Nose, Black [47550]

I also recently purchased a Leatherman Wave as a bday present for me it's nice, though I found a new in box on Ebay so a little savings.

I do agree with others your gonna want a fix blade as well, Check out the Mora line affordable reliabable.

Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 4.1-Inch, Military Green

u/codewolf · 3 pointsr/bugout

My two cents, I'm sure others will pick on these opinions...

  • Get rid of the car escape tool you'll never use it and it'll just add weight to your key chain - buy a cheap knife with a belt cutter and window breaker if you want that functionality
  • Instead of that knife you have on the list, buy a Mora knife for something you'll just keep in the bag and not use that often (and it's a great knife even if you use it often)
  • A Bic lighter will float as well as the one on your list and is a lot cheaper
  • Get rid of the rechargeable batteries since nothing on your list uses them and nothing on your list will charge them
  • No need to spend $100 on a flashlight that will sit in a pack. Look for a reliable one that costs much, much less - you even have a crank light on the list, that will do in a pinch
  • Get rid of the fire sticks and put some cotton balls soaked in Vaseline in a film canister in the pack
  • Cyalume sticks are great, keep those
  • Get a titanium spork instead of the plastic one
  • Remove the Datrex ration bars, you'll never use them, or just keep them in a vehicle outside of the pack
  • The Mountain House eggs (or any dehydrated eggs) are the worst (tasting) of the meals, get some other protein meal
  • Everything else on that list - look for less expensive options - for example, you should be able to find a cheap tarp for less
  • You can put a better first aid kit together by buying the contents and spreading them over multiple first aid kits for home, work, vehicle, etc. but a prepared one isn't too bad, just supplement it
  • The matches are too expensive for something you can make with light anywhere matches and wax
  • Where's your pack? what will you carry this in?

u/Odysimus · 3 pointsr/searchandrescue

Traditional SAR, the teams you will find around the country operate in a whole different world than the military. For the most part you can sort of look to volunteer firefighters as an analogy, even then they tend to be more regimented than SAR. There are some SAR teams out there that have more of a military structure to them, but most of what you will find will feel more like SAR clubs (think chess clubs, hiking clubs, etc). My unit meets once a month, we have a business meeting with the whole review last month's minutes, reports on events since the last meeting, old business, new business, etc. After that we conduct a classroom training session on topics like Lost Person Behavior, Medical Techniques, Navigation, etc. We also conduct regular field trainings to bring it all together. We don't have ranks, we have a list of skillsets and we are each typed according to our ability in each skill. Our unit and all the units I know don't work with weapons, sure we carry knives, but the biggest blade most of us work with is one of these, not some giant thing that rambo would carry, no machetes, no hatchets. If there is a situation where SAR skills are needed for say a fugitive, we stay home. We have done evidence searches for things criminals have tossed into the woods, but they were already in jail.

SAR in the military is their own thing and while we can and do work together on missions they are a unit that stays a unit. When we ask for military assets we indicate what needs to be done and they tell us what they are sending and what it will do. If I show up on a mission with 5 other people from my unit we might be on a team together or I might get put in with members of a different unit.

When it comes to the actual searching it is simply a lot of covering ground. We walk, and we walk, and we walk. 99% of the time we get nothing, there are only so many clues out there. There is one really awesome clue (the person or thing you were out to look for) and tons of acreage to cover. We often start from a last known point and try to move that further along in time. An example we were out looking for a mushroom hunter, when I showed up they new where he started into the woods, we then found a clearly picked mushroom and a couple of boot prints. That advanced the last known point a few hundred feet and gave us a second breadcrumb to work with. It takes a certain type of person to do that effectively. I have seen plenty of people bow out because they had been on maybe a dozen searches over several years and never found a thing. One of our radio operators has been on 8 missions, each ended in a recovery. My hope when I got in was to find a clue at some point, and Oh Boy my first time out I got the find, I found the 24yro woman who had hanged herself. We don't have an obligation to respond to one call or another, but you also don't get to decide who gets lost and when. You also have to get along real well with the others on your team. I've been on all sorts of teams and there are people that I know I don't want to go out with, and certain combinations of people that I won't go out with.

With every one of your responses I feel more and more that SAR wouldn't be a good fit for you now. Most units welcome visitors, I would say that you might consider finding one of the local unit's meetings and checking it out. Attend a few meetings before even considering applying, and talk to the people there and be honest about what you are looking for. Once you get started into it there is a substantial investment in time, energy, gear, and training on the part of you and your team. It isn't worth it to go through a bunch of training and getting geared up to not be a productive member of a team (remember finding nothing is something). I'm not sure what exactly you are looking for, but I don't think SAR is it. There is always a "who knows?" aspect and if you spend some time around a unit you may find that it is a good fit, or that your outlook might change. Our mountain rescue unit has people "hang out" around them for several months before offering them an application, in their world they have to trust their lives to their team. While the regular old SAR doesn't require the same standard it is very easy for someone (as good at it as they may be) to be more of a distraction than a help.

I don't think SAR is going to get you what you want. If you do feel like continuing down this path talk to the people in the unit(s) in your area, be honest, and don't take it personally if they tell you "no".

u/benpetersen · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Here's a great buck/camp knife, carbon fixed blade, 3/4 tang (full tangs are $50-$75), 4-6 in long (longer and it gets in the way) Mora Companion HDK

u/10nix · 3 pointsr/knives

I've found that the Companion makes a very good general purpose knife. I used mine last November to skin and butcher a deer, and it was well up to the task.

Edit: This is the one I use.

u/__helix__ · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

I'll second the Mora blades. I have a couple like this one. If you poke around, you should find different colors in the $12-15 range. Very good steel on that blade - used it to field dress a couple deer and was still sharp.

Since space may be at a premium - many butcher shops in grocery stores will sharpen non-serrated blades for free.

I'd skip the flashlight and get a headlamp. The simpler ones without the battery pack on the back side of the head work nicely and double as a hand held light if you need it too.

u/Ravenor95 · 3 pointsr/Survival

For general survival/bushcraft purposes (though not for breaking a car window):
(Great quality/price ratio from Sweden)

For EDC/general cutting purposes(and gorgeous old-school looks), a small high-quality folding knife from France:

If you want a more "modern" pocket knife that is still affordable, I recommend something from the American masters of Cold Steel like:
(Gotta give some lovin' to that Aus8A japanese steel and the Scandinavian grind)

I can recommend all three, though I own only the first 2. Have fun and stay sharp!

u/NarrWallace · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I recommend this one. It has I nice grip and it is still one of the cheapest mora knives.

u/radison · 3 pointsr/Portland

I have this knife. I carry it every day, and use it a whole lot more than I ever thought I would. Never for self-defense, but it does provide a small bit of peace of mind just in case.

There's a few things I like about it:

It's cheap!

It's small and very well made.

It flips open like a switchblade, but isn't considered one. It also makes a cool sound when you do that.

It holds a sharp edge

The pocket clips don't wear out.

Sharpens nicely

You can carry a pocketknife anywhere in Oregon. It's no big deal whatsoever. Check out Oregon's Knife Laws here. Oregon is a super lenient state when it comes to knife laws.


u/mickeymouse4348 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

whenever i leave my house i have 3 knives on me; one in my wallet, one on my keychain, and one in my back pocket

u/welphelp · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Hey that's on Amazon for 29.99 and it's in stock.

u/toxicplease · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

2 versions of the M9: 1, 2.
Huntsman Knife
Butterfly Knife and a Butterfly Knife Fade xD
Gut Knife
Flip Knife
Ofcourse there's a lot of variations so you can't tell exactly what knife model did the CSGO devs based in.

u/Daemmerung · 3 pointsr/mallninjashit

I believe that this silly thing is the Huntsman. Can't blame CS this time.

u/SarcasmIsKey · 3 pointsr/EDC

Left to right

Muji Eraser

[Sigg 0.6L water bottle] (

[Muji Gel Pen] (

[Alvin DRAFT-TEC RETRAC 0.3mm] (

[Leatherman Style PS] (


Anker SoundBuds Sport IE 20

[Fisher Space Pen] (

[Leatherman Wave Black] (

[Mee Audio M6 Pro] (

[Random Knife] (

[Corsair Voyager Go 32GB] (

[Kershaw Cryo 1555Ti] (

[Alpine Swiss Slim Wallet] (

[Anker PowerCore 10000 with Quick Charge 3.0] (

[Seiko SNDC31] (

[Lenovo T440s (256GB Samsung 840 EVO, 12GB ram, 1080p touchscreen, i5 4300)]

[Motorola Doid Turbo Ballistic Nylon 32GB] (

u/Aznguy1 · 3 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

u/TickNut · 3 pointsr/EDC

This is a list of my EDC. I go to public high school so some items can't be carried all the time. I'll try and get links to all the products I can.

  • Front Right Pocket
  • My iPod Touch 6 in blue (my iPod is the only thing that goes in here, this is to avoid unnecessary scratches).
  • Watch Pocket
  • Sometimes I'll carry a Mini Bic Lighter in baby blue.
  • Front Left Pocket
  • Kershaw Cryo Knife clipped onto my pocket.
  • Key Ring
    • A Key Dangler also clips on my pocket and keeps things from bunching up.
    • Leatherman Style PS- a multi tool that doesn't have a blade. So I'm able to take it to school and not worry about getting suspended.
    • A little dinky flashlight for when I'm really in a pinch.
  • Peculiarly Perfect Peanut Butter Peppermint Lip Balm (by the YouTubers Rhett and Link).
  • Back Left Pocket
    • Wallet
      • Along with normal things you keep in a wallet; I have two folded up paper towels. These come in handy.
  • Back Right Pocket
    • I like to keep this pocket as a blank slate. So it changes a lot. Sometimes I'll carry a hacksysack if I know I'll be doing a lot of standing around. Or I'll bring my Bolt Focus Flashlight to work. Other times I'll just have a folded up rag (because I'm too stingy to buy a hanky).

      So I actually have a fairly in depth reason on why certain items go in certain pockets. But this comment is long enough so I'll leave it out unless you ask.

      EDIT: It looks like the Bolt Focus Flashlight is currently unavailable. I'll still leave the link in case that changes.

u/PancakeEater101 · 3 pointsr/EDC

The shard is $6 on Amazon, so for less than $10 more you can have the shard and a MUCH better knife

u/kerrcobra · 3 pointsr/EDC

Pocket knife looks like a Kershaw Cryo. Don't know the rest of the stuff though.

u/JayStar1213 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Not quite sub $20 but definetely a great knife. Kershaw Cryo.

$22 currently on sale. I've had it for 2 years now. Take it everywhere. She sharpens like new every time.

u/elementality22 · 3 pointsr/rawdenim

It's the 1555TI Cryo I don't know much about them either, this is my first knife.

u/Sithslayer78 · 3 pointsr/cosplayers

Blade Sharpener

Saved you another

u/TheSharpDoctor · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I'm a fan of the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener

For $27 you receive a complete kit that includes a coarse diamond plate, a fine diamond plate, ceramic stone and a leather strop with compound.

It won't give you a mirror edge but it will be able to sharpen pretty much all modern steels.

u/AoK47 · 3 pointsr/knives

This is my favorite field sharpener.

Sometimes I'll just take an ultra fine rod from my Spyderco Sharpmaker for quick little touch ups.

u/EtTuBrutAftershave · 3 pointsr/knives

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener

It has angled guides to help get you used to sharpening

u/Longshanks0806 · 3 pointsr/knives

Get yourself a Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener and follow the guide for sharpening. As for rust and everything, it's stainless so just don't let it stay wet forever.

u/InfidelUSA · 3 pointsr/knives

I was having the same problem note being able to find that edge even though I have training with your run whet stone.

I was at the point that I was about to say fuck it an and get a electronic sharpener (even though I carry almost exclusively half serrated blades.) And then I stumbled across this:

I have been able to put an edge on everything that I own. On a youtube video I watched it said the knife sharpness test was to pull against a newspaper, push against a newspaper, and fillet some paper off the news paper.... with that sharpener I am able to do all three.

u/almostiskiller · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I have that same clone and it definitely is pretty solid. But, my contender for best $20 (give or take 3 bucks) knife is still the Rat 2

u/Ravensong427 · 3 pointsr/knives

I own one of these and it's a pretty good knife for EDC. One handed open & close, nice fit in the hand. Only potential drawback would be performance if it gets wet, which i haven't had to worry about yet.

u/balls_of_gum · 3 pointsr/knives
u/Juggernaut118 · 2 pointsr/Fishing

Thanks for the reply. What kind of sharpener do you use? I have one of these
I find I can get a sharper edge then any other technique I've tried, but it is a slow process.

Also, have you found some blades just have better steel overall?

u/wee0x1b · 2 pointsr/Cooking

I use a Lansky sharpener. You can shave with the knives. And once you get the bevel set to whatever angle you like, re-sharpening takes about 3 minutes.

u/KaineOrAmarov · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Someone else suggested this product, also by Lansky. What's the difference?

u/hermeslyre · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Yeah. Edge pro is the expensive one, you can get any angle you want, and the much cheaper lansky version has set guide holes for the rods.

Yeah, my crocks sticks work and your sharpmakers better. I just wanna try something different.

u/Reachmonkey · 2 pointsr/knives

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

u/bakerman03 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub
u/orbitalfreak · 2 pointsr/Sacramento

Depending on how many knives you need to sharpen, and how frequently, you can also look into getting a sharpening kit. Look at cost of purchase vs cost of hiring a person. I use this one:

There are some quick videos from the manufacturer on how to use it. It's pretty easy to knock out a kitchen's worth of knives during a Netflix binge. I sharpen mine about every 6-12 months, depending on when I remember, and depending on if a particular knife really needs it.

u/reversethrust · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Oh. didn't the kit come with oil? The Lanksy kit comes with oil: although, i guess, the Spyderco doesn't. I didn't see the Spyderco one in store when i was shopping :)

u/BageendJr · 2 pointsr/balisong
u/PissedOffBiotic · 2 pointsr/EDC

I use a Lansky, also good is a Smith's. The best one out there imo is the Sharpmaker.

u/jenkstom · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

The blocks with rods that stick out work fairly well. If you want to get serious get an eye loupe and one of the systems that use a guide rod to keep the angle perfect every time ( But those take some time and quite of skill to usr.

Or if you are lazy and don't care about longevity of the blade get one of the chef's choice sharpeners. They are pricey, but ridiculously easy to use and you can have a razor sharp blade in seconds.

u/william_tells · 2 pointsr/knives

Are you still excluded/special (mil/fire/police/ems)? Gerber has an authentication, I think through idme, and you prefill the auto acknowledgment.

I have a Lansky 5 Stone and purchased a couple extra stones off the recommendation of some people on this sub and it’s pretty damn groovy. It works well and has made everything I’ve put on it shaving sharp. The additional stones are an Extra Coarse Diamond and a Super Sapphire They also have angled stones for serrated sections. I also picked up a few strops off of r/knife_swap from u/jester002100 which he hand crafts and are of utmost fit and finish.

u/papermageling · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

u/CostcoMuffins · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

Everyone here seems to be recommending whetstones, which is fine (great in fact), but I figured I'd post about an alternative to that.

I personally use the Lansky system, which has pros and cons relative to a set of nice stones but is perfectly fine for a single college student like myself, because it's cheap, easy-to-use, basically foolproof, and gives your knife-edge a very steady angle.

u/fiskedyret · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Hi there!

your post contains a referral link which reddit does not like. and as such was automatically removed.

if you replace the link to the lansky with this

i'll go ahead and get the post approved for you.

u/pussifer · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

How long did that take? Which Lansky did you use? And did you do the reprofiling with that sharpener, or something else? I ask because I feel like, even with the super rough diamond hone, it would take forever to reprofile an edge with this.

Edit: Added more

u/ShuManChu · 2 pointsr/knives

Did you buy this kit? If so I would recommend not going back and forth on the same side. Just pull the knife through. If this is not the kit you have, please link to the one you did buy.

u/aussie_jason · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Define on a budget? For about $30, which I consider fairly cheap you can get a full sharpening kit - Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/JaRay · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Having tried several methods sharpening pocket and kitchen knives the product i have enjoyed using the most is this one or this one I think I have the set with 4 stones.

It removes the guess work for the angle and evenly shaves off metal across the entire length of the blade.

u/piojo · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Absolutely. I think the shape of the shun's edge (its grind) makes it go through food a little more easily than our old chef's knife.

When the Shun knife arrived, it was the most scarily sharp blade I've ever seen, but it's been 4 or 6 weeks--while the Shun is still very sharp, I'm not sure it could still hold its own against a razor blade or X-Acto knife.

I just sharpened the old knife with this, and the Shun is still sharper, but now the old knife actually has a better edge for cutting tomatoes or bread (the cutting edge is a bit rough, and rough helps with certain types of cutting).

u/missredd · 2 pointsr/knives

Fellow NJ'er. waves

I ordered the Lansky Deluxe 5-Hone Sharpening System and according to amazon, it should arrive today. I'm fucking excited to give it a try. I'm completely hopeless with sharpening stones.

u/Rauldisco · 2 pointsr/knives

When cleaning a knife, don't use abrasives that will scratch the surface. Use water and soap and a towel, dry it completely with a dry towel, than use a good lubricant (WD40 is not recommended) to completely lubricate all of the moving parts of the knife. Be careful not to use too much lubricant or gunk will build up. Put some lubricant or oil on the blade to protect it from rust.
Next, you will need to know how to sharpen. Most of the people around here use either the Lansky Sharpening System, the Spyderco Sharpmaker, or freehand sharpening stones.
I use a set of free hand sharpening stones and a leather strop with a polishing compound to polish the edge. This is the edge of a knife I just sharpened today
As you can see, the edge is a mirror and is razor sharp. I taught myself how to sharpen and it is kind of hard to explain it in words because each of those systems for sharpening above use different methods of sharpening. Because you seem to be a beginner, I would recommend buying the Lansky System because it is less likely to mess up your edge than if you use free hand stones. Also, if you buy the Lansky, buy the stand for it as well.
After sharpening, oil the edge once again to protect it from rusting.
Remember to always keep as much moisture and liquid off the knife to prevent corrosion and always clean it with soap and water if it gets dirty.
Also, if you are interested in a leatherman, I recommend the Charge because even though it is pricey it is known as one of their best models.
I hope this all helps you!
EDIT: I also forgot to tell you not to use a knife outside of its intended purpose. It sounds like you tried prying with your previous knife, which ended up bending its tip. Never pry with a knife, next time it may break. Don't cut metal wire with a blade, use wire cutters. Don't use the edge a a screwdriver, that cause damage too. Remember to always use the correct tool for the job, which is beneficial for you because the leatherman will have many small tools.

u/gordo1223 · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

I sharpen at home but my results are comparable to when I used a sharpening service.

This is the thread where I got my info. Like most of the egullet university articles, very high quality.

And this is the sharpener that I use. I started out with stones, but found that the guides on the Lansky setup make it much easier to set correct angles.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Both are highly recommended.

u/cigr · 2 pointsr/knives

The classic folding hunting knife is the Buck 110.

u/dunneetiger · 2 pointsr/EDC

If you want just a knife, I think you can go for a classic knife like a Buck model 110 (Link) or an Opinel (number 8 - Link) are safe bets.

Edit: Added links

u/dinnertainment · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

I used my trusty, and very sharp, 110 Buck Knife I positioned my weight on the animal and cut its jugular vein and it bled out quickly. With the loss of oxygen to the head, it passed out relatively quickly. That being said, this can be dangerous because if the animal springs up, you could stab yourself. People have been hurt from doing this. Luckily for me, the deer was in no position to move. As I mentioned, I did this as quickly and respectfully as possible.

u/niloc · 2 pointsr/Hunting

The Buck 110 is a good knife that won't break the bank.

u/wickedsteve · 2 pointsr/knives

Buck Folding Hunter $30

u/thirdGEARchirp · 2 pointsr/EDC

Top left circle is my badge holder. I didn't feel like blurring out my badge so I just flipped it over.

Top middle is my keyport That holds 5 keys and one light. Its awesome!!

Top right is my slim line wallet. This helped slim down a thick old tri fold that I had.

Middle left is my spyderco knife. I like it and it has definitly came in handy a few times.

Middle right is my off duty glock 26. I love this as an off duty weapon. I've upgraded a few things on it too. I use an IWB alien holster for the Glock but didn't feel like taking it out of my pants.

Bottom is a case for my S5.

Missing is my watch that I wear, G-Shock.

u/fourtwentyblzitfaget · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I've had this: for the past two years and have used it heavily for work and its held up great.

u/einstein2001 · 2 pointsr/rawdenim

I only collect Spyderco knives so I'm a bit biased, but in that price range I would recommend one from their budget line. Either the Tenacious $42, Persistence $38, or Ambitious $29, listed from largest to smallest. Also check out the sidebar at /r/knifeclub for more suggestions.

u/ethanzh · 2 pointsr/EDC

The Tenacious looks good for the price.

So now I'm down to 3 I would like to choose from,

  • Kershaw Cyro

  • Kershaw Leek

  • and the Spyderco Tenacious

    So I think I might be leaning towards the Leek, except for what you said about the thin steel. Will that be a major issue? The Tenacious looks good, only thing is that it doesn't have to spring loaded opening, which is something I didn't really know I wanted until now. Then there's the Cyro, which has a slightly smaller blade (1/4 of an inch shorter), but it also has the spring loaded system, only thing is it doesn't look as simplistic as the Leek, but I think I can get over that. Which would you recommend of the Cyro and the Leek which I've posted? Because I realize there are different variations of each knife, but if I get either, I will be getting the ones I've linked to. Thanks.
u/Burn_The_Ships · 2 pointsr/EDC

May I recommend a new knife? This one is one of the best ones you can get for cheap.

u/Tvizz · 2 pointsr/knives

Personally a budget spyderco.





With a mini swiss.


Small Swiss

Is acceptable for most applications, a larger multi tool is good for in the car or around the house though.

I seriously can not possibly say enough good things about my spyderco tenacious. Get one, or another in the budget line (persistence, resilience)

u/lightinthedark · 2 pointsr/EDC

Spyderco Tenacious family are all in the $25-35 range if you want a real Spyderco.

Tenacious 3 3/8" blade

Persistence 2 3/4" blade

Ambitious 2 1/4" blade

u/Sengura · 2 pointsr/knives

Twitch II is good.

So is the Skyline

But my favorite is still the Tenacious. What an awesome EDC knife that sucker is. The metal may not be the best, but it makes up for it in durability and it's so easy to sharpen. The knife is of excellent quality and for less than 30$. If you want a smaller blade, get the Persistence (I wouldn't, the Tenacious is the perfect size for me).

u/smellslikepurple233 · 2 pointsr/EDC

For that price range? This
Spyderco Tenacious. 3.375in blade, 8cr13mov steel (chinese aus8, a good value steel) liner lock (easy one hand closing) thumb hole for one hand opening, movable pocket clip for all 4 carry options (lefty righty tip up tip down) (need a torx screwdriver-> go to ACE) G10 handle (good shit. They line nuclear reactor cores with it.) BEST Bang for your buck

u/wparsons · 2 pointsr/knives

In that price range, from lowest to highest price, I found these in a quick search on Amazon:

  • Spyderco Ambitious - 2.25" blade, $26.20
  • Spyderco Tenacious - 3-3/8" blade, $30.13
  • Spyderco Persistence - 2.75" blade, $31.89
  • Spyderco Resilience - 4.25" blade, $42.87

    All of these use pretty much identical materials, and have identical features and quality. So go with whichever you like best.

    The steel used on these is middle of the road (the same as used in your Tremor), but overall quality is outstanding for the price. All around these will outperform and feel nicer than any Kershaws in the same price class, though I have nothing against Kershaw's better knives.
u/blueriderbacks · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Just to add a few more that fall well under budget and are still awesome.

u/Corpse_Sundae · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife

Welcome to the club :)

u/RJDavid8 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Papa Johns worker with Irma right around the corner.

Top Row (from left to right):

Oakley SI Half Jacket 2.0: $72 with knockoff polarized mirrored lenses bought on amazon here for $20.

Leatherman Pro Wave: Not a special edition of Wave, just bought through Leatherman's Pro program. $55 with the clip found here for $5.

Timex Ironman Classic 30: Great $30-$40 digital watch that through everything has yet to hiccup, let alone fail, once.

iPhone 7: Matte Black. I'm one of those people who actually doesn't love or hate apple of android. I just happen to have a macbook and an iPhone, and that works for me.

Otterbox Symmetry Series: Wanted a $35 case to match my phone and got one. Lint and dust all over the port openings and inside the case?! Works great, just likes to get dirty.

Oakley SI Flak Beta Prism: $117 through Oakley's standard issue, these are the steel frames thanks to some confusing customer service calls. Polarized lenses with their mumbo jumbo technology actually make colors pop a bit.

Middle Row:

Black Leather Wallet: I don't know, probably found at Kohls or something. Nothing special, just gets the job done.

Field Notes Expedition: Awesome $13 notebooks that use a plasticy paper for writing in any conditions. Finally halfway through my first book, as I like to use all of the real estate available on each page. A bit worn, but character, right?

Amazon Special Wristwatch: There's so much conflicting branding everywhere, who knows who makes it. Anyway, have had it for a while and it seems to tell time. The band is a bit weird, but what would one expect for $16?

Car Keys: RIP me. I drive a minivan. sigh. Oh well, it's what I got.

Bottom Row:

Spyderco Tenacious: Perfect $40 knife if you don't want a beater and also don't want your wallet to scream in agony. I just need a good whetstone set to be able to do it justice.

Bose Soundsport Earbuds: Stay in my weird ears. I exercise regularly, but that doesn't mean I like it. Music helps me forget the lactic acid burning my muscles. They don't make the audio-only ones anymore, so here's a $99 pair for apple devices.

Wristbands: Air Force Academy in blue and Domestic Violence in purple. I wear these because I don't want to expose myself to the world of "Etsy." yikes.

Chrome Fisher Space Pen Bullet With Clip: ~$20 and so damn slippery. Awesome pen for being a pen, but I need something more practical for greasy hands. Any ideas? Not looking for anything more than like 30 bucks.

Kizer Vagnino Velox 2: A beautiful flipper on ballbearings. HOLY cow this thing flies out with vengeance and feels like a million bucks. A true gentleman's folder. However, I am not a gentleman... I see some ugly grip tape in it's future to make up for impracticality of no serrations on the back of the blade or handle for grip. Before anyone tries to complain about a 17 yr old with a $200 knife, I found 'er on Massdrop for $82 after shipping. Would I say it is worth the 13 hours of work needed to pay for it? Yes. Yes I would.

u/Everinyourfavor · 2 pointsr/EDC

Posted this in another thread:

You could also check out the Tenacious or Opinel

u/anthereddit · 2 pointsr/knives
u/BobLoBlahLaw · 2 pointsr/knives I carry this, it's nice for the price

u/chrono13 · 2 pointsr/Survival

If I know I am going to be in a survival situation?

Phone + Battery, 50 Flares, vehicle with a full tank of gas would be my top 3.

More serious you say? Just limiting myself to ordering online, mostly amazon -

  1. Warbonnet hammock and tarp

  2. Sawyer water filter

  3. 1,000 feet of 750 cord

  4. 50 bic lighters

  5. 12 Months supply of food

  6. Heavy knife

  7. Light cheap knife

  8. Any expensive sleeping bag

  9. Cell phone, including my favorite RPG games.

  10. Solar recharger

  • Assumes I am stranded in the forest of the Northwest United States.

    Given a more specific survival situation, a budget, weight limit or other constraints, I may adjust my list accordingly.

u/RunsWithSporks · 2 pointsr/Survival

Check out the USMC Ka-bar as well, its a tried and true survival knife.

u/Silverlight42 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have one of these. Great knife, great sheath. Can't complain. It's also 1095 which is a great carbon steel. Same applies about rust as was stated above, about the ESEE-3-MIL, though no laser etched logo to deal with. Can't go wrong with $56, but it's rather much larger than the ESEE-3-MIL -- all depends on what you want to use it for and your personal preferences.

u/jb270 · 2 pointsr/Survival

Mine batons like a champ. Check I picked up mine for 50 bucks there. I also picked up a plastic sheath for about ten bucks, as it comes in a leather one which probably shouldn't get wet.

u/silentnightowl · 2 pointsr/knives

What knife should I get that is similar to a Ka-Bar(, but stainless steel?

u/jbisinla · 2 pointsr/Wet_Shavers

That makes more sense. I was thinking of the old-school USMC Ka-Bar.

u/Captain_Dictator · 2 pointsr/AMagicalPlace
u/invisiblecamel · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/zismahname · 2 pointsr/backpacking

I use the USMC ka-bar it is a bit on the large and heavy side but it can do everything just about from food to use as a hatchet to make kindling. If I don't carry that I will carry a Leatherman.

u/McDonutz · 2 pointsr/battlefield3

I would love to invest in one of these, but I'm finding it hard to justify £200 on a knife that doesn't do anything more than my plethora of other knives

Edit: I'm talking about this

u/no0b_64 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Have you considered adding a KA-BAR Becker BK3 they were designed for use by EMTs and are apparently very good at prying open car doors and the like.

u/Kurat00r · 2 pointsr/battlefield3

I actually like this knife, would buy if I had too much money:

u/prickinthewall · 2 pointsr/knives

Not a classical Bowie when it comes to design and finish, but with the Becker BK7 you can't go wrong. It is very durable and a viable alrounder.
edit: the only negative point might be the sheath which is a bit flimsy.

u/SilkRocket2 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Here’s the battery and charger I have
You can buy the battery and charger separately if you find that you want another battery though (I’ll put that link here too)

u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

The Amazon listings have the terminoloy backwards. This is more commonly refered to as a Nunchuck. FYI, you can't retract the stock all the way with a 9.6V.

The battery your stock was designed for is the [8.4v/1600mah] (, thankfully the better 7.4v/1600MAH small brick type is the same physical size.

I wouldn't use an 11.1V without changing the Piston, Tappet, and adding a MOSFET.

The stock piston in those shred.

u/Temeraire02 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

This is a significantly cheaper smart charger. I have one and it does its job very well.

This battery
is also significantly cheaper.

I assume you have an actual hydration carrier for that bladder? Cheaper hydration bladders but shipping may be a factor.

In general, buying accessories on airsoft retailer sites will cost you unnecessarily. A quick google search for your product should net you something cheaper.

u/bellzor · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

Condor Bushlore is a great knife and it's cheaper than the Gerber. I started with a Mora but I like the Beefier Bushlore and it comes with a nice leather sheath. Only problem is I didn't like the edge on it so I had to do some work getting it sharp the way I like it. I didn't mind cause I enjoy sharpening my knives.

u/billbillbilly · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

You gotta be more specific in your original questions buddy.

First of all, there are 2 reasons to remove an animal from a trap. To rescue (and minimize harm to the animal), or to harvest (and minimize damage to the trap). Here in bushcrafter land, I wouldn't usually assume you aren't planning on eating what was caught in the trap.....

It does sound like you are looking for the rescue side of things, and this is for a film, and you are looking for realism..

A swiss army knife or basic folding pocketknife are fairly realistic options for what a typical person might have with them with just a general plan of being 'prepared'. Something like 4-5inch Condor Bushlore is a decent approximation for what a more bushcraft oriented person might have with them in a wilderness setting. Someone who is going out intentionally to rescue animals from traps though, that is an entirely different question! For that you'd want a blunt tip, the type found in rescue knives, and/or EMT scissors.

For realism, most of us here know enough about the various types of knife that we could likely give you good answers - but you really should explain what kind of realism you are actually going for.

Average outdoorsy person with basic 'preparedness' is likely to have something like this:

Or this:

Average Joe who has no idea of what makes a knife good or useful is likely to have something like this:

Average bushcraft subreddit user probably has something similar to:

but wishes they had:

Someone going out with them intention of rescuing persons or animals would probably be carrying something like this though:

And then finally, I'll say this - pretty much anything sharper than a butter knife can be used to safely rescue an animal from most situations. Hell I could probably do it with a can opener or nail clippers. So just decide what sort of situation you expect your characters to have intentionally been prepared for, and go from there.

u/Captain_Poontamer · 2 pointsr/worldnews

My knife was made in El Salvador, it's high grade carbon steel.

u/gdawggydog · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

Is this the one you have?

Condor Tool & Knife, Bushlore Camp Knife, 4-5/16in Blade, Hardwood Handle with Sheath

u/JimmyRnj · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Condor Bushlore
It does have a bit of a micro-bevel but that can easily be sharpened out to a zero grind Scandi.

u/rossbw · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft
the condor bushlore is by far my favorite knife. thats after moras, ka bars, opinels, and esee. condor is the way to go imo

u/ALeapAtTheWheel · 2 pointsr/knives

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

u/Dank_Monkey · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

This or the swamp romper is probably a good starting point. Invest in a good sharpening kit (Lansky) I promise it will make a huge difference, especially for cooking. Even the nicest knife isn't worth a damn when it gets dull.

u/Ropeless · 2 pointsr/knives

Condor bush lore fits the bill as well.

u/majixmatrix · 2 pointsr/Knife_Swap

I really don't see how you can ask $35 for a $22 knife that's not new? In fact they're both $22. Canadian taxes must be insane!!! For the small price you paid you might want to hold on to them to beet them up. I love my chill it's stupid light maybe just throw it in a packback? Always nice to have a few abuser knives....

u/ElectricLamp · 2 pointsr/knives

They're both in 8cr13mov and people really underestimate them for it. It's actually a very easily maintained steel but watch out for the Clash and its bead blasted finish; it'll rust on you easily. The Freefall is stonewashed so you won't have that problem.

Honestly I'd probably prefer a [kershaw chill](] in that range for its blade geometry. It's mostly flat ground and it will make for noticeably better slicing capability. (even though it is also bead blasted)

Otherwise it'd be good to pony up ten more bucks and get a Rat II

u/MD_Lurker · 2 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Chill, a gentleman's folder.

u/YouMadeMeDumber · 2 pointsr/knives

There are some aesthetically pleasing knives here, but I would encourage you to look into some things with a bit more functionality. While any of these may appear to function well, a properly made knife will treat you much better in the long run.

This Kershaw is inexpensive, has good steel characteristics and is well assembled. I encourage you to get one or possibly something recommended in the knife buying guide and compare to some of the knives in your collection.

u/LenoxAsa · 2 pointsr/EDC

Here's a few I've seen

Or, you can just buy all the things you would want on Amazon, it'll come in 1 or 2 boxes. Here's a few choices to put together a "kit"

This or this for flashlight.

This This, or, This For a multitool depending on the size you want.

This or This for knife (Note: I am not a knife person, I have a Squid and I like it and I've heard good things about the Kershaw Chill)

Exotac FreeKey System

u/Inquisitive_Cretin · 2 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

This is a nice quality inexpensive mess kit (no spork)

This is a really nice quality flashlight!

Here is a good quality pocket knife.

u/NaggerGuy · 2 pointsr/guns

When I bought my Kershaw Chill it was around $15. I carry it more than my expensive stuff.

u/bleedcmyk · 2 pointsr/mechmarket

Its probably a Tek Mat. They're for gun cleaning / assembly, but its literally the same material as a cloth mousepad.

Just search for TekMat on amazon and you should be able to find a ton of different guns.

u/Kacay · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Quite a few people also seem to use a TekMat.

Edit: Also /r/askbattlestations

u/dandjcro · 2 pointsr/battlestations

TekMat - They were popular on reddit awhile ago.

u/aje14700 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Where, not why. I know why, that's why I want one too, plus I actually could use it for it's original purpose, stripping an AR-15. But a quick google search answered my question.

u/ethics- · 2 pointsr/guns

You can usually just get them on Amazon. Seems like they're currently OOS, like many other online retailers.

Here's the link, for what its worth.

u/dbinkerd · 2 pointsr/ar15

It is something like this (not sure if it is the exact one, but similar enough).

u/YamSs · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Not a mousepad as far as I understand. You can use it as one if you like tough.

u/austin713 · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/admiralnorman · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Had it. It was okay. I highly prefer a TekMat for a similar price.

$11 - Slightly smaller - 1911 handgun

$20 - Full keyboard size - AR15 Rifle

Edit - They also make those for many other guns. I have the MP-5 at work and the Desert eagle at home.

u/Helevitia · 2 pointsr/ar15

haha, I was wondering if somebody would ask about that.

Here you go.

Also, they sell gun mats, too.

AR15 Mat.

I prefer the computer mat because it's huge! But that is the downside as well, takes up a lot of space.

u/khanhd92 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The mousepad is actually a gun cleaning mat from Tekmat. They come in a variety of sizes depending on the type of gun blueprint that you choose. I also recommend these speakers if you can find them on craiglist or a yard sale. You just need to do a crossover upgrade (kits and tutorials are available with a little Googling) and they will blow any other bookshelf speakers with a MUCH higher price range out of the water.

Here's a link to the AR15 mat:

u/MaximCannon · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Don't have one myself but have heard some people love using these gun cleaning mats as mouse pads, the graphics on them are super cool plus they're big enough to cover under your keyboard and mouse!

u/b1u3 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview
u/idiggplants · 2 pointsr/ar15

thats exactly what i did, and im happy with it. well, i used this mount instead...

i preferred the knob on mine a bit more. allows for easy no tool attachment.

u/fromplsnerf · 2 pointsr/guns

It’s .83”

This is the riser

UTG Med-pro Compact Riser Mount, 0.83" High, 3 Slots

u/gooknezz · 2 pointsr/guns

To expand on what /u/Lost_Thought said, the link you included has the standard mount that will result with a very close mount, like this or this.

If you want it mounted to better co-witness with your iron sights, you will need a rise mount that will end up looking like this.

The medium riser will co-witness with your irons. The high riser will give you a lower 1/3 co-witness.

These are the only two items (sight and one riser) you would likely need to purchase.

u/Bru7171 · 2 pointsr/ar15

Those are Bushnell TRS-25s on a UTG medium riser. But it looks like this one on Amazon already comes with a medium riser.

u/shmecklesss · 2 pointsr/guns

Bushnell TRS-25 is a quality budget red dot that would perform similarly to the Vortex.

Edit: you would probably want a riser to go along with it, though that's somewhat personal preference. Amazon has the TRS + riser for $60.

u/Icamehereforupvotes · 2 pointsr/GunAccessoriesForSale
u/Triactin · 2 pointsr/ar15

I used this one UTG Med-pro Compact Riser Mount, 0.83" High, 3 Slots All I did to adjust it was line it up with my backup iron sights and flip them back down when I was done.

u/hondalex · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've heard from Amazon that this is the riser to get for it from them:

[UTG Medium Profile Riser Mount with 3 slots] (

u/MisterNoisy · 2 pointsr/guns

If you're in the continental US, I've got a spare TRS-25 laying around that you can have. You'll want to add a riser, but UTG makes a solid cheap one:

Absolute cowitness

Lower 1/3 cowitness

u/mjmedstarved · 2 pointsr/Gunsforsale

Yeah.. I paid $57.80 at PA for mine, and 9.99 for my UTG mount:

u/flighthaltWHAT · 2 pointsr/ar15

I run this same red dot on my AR, it was a .83 inch riser on Amazon and makes an absolute cowitness with my front sight post and MBUS rear sight. Heres the link to it:

u/NgArclite · 2 pointsr/airsoft

wait for the eotech and see then. don't go wasting money with a prebuy. that being said this is a good one. might not be long enough for the eotech though. otherwise almost any brand riser works. utg is a good one though

u/ku1185 · 2 pointsr/NJGuns

This is the riser I used:

I also had the "high" one that was 1" tall, but that was just a tad bit too tall for me.

u/cypherpunks · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Charging multiple Li-ion cells is complicated; you need to balance the cells as you charge them.

But there are plenty of chargers out there, particularly by model car racers, for the job. You just need to hook up the endpoints and the balancing leads.

Most hobby Lithium polymer (Lipo) chargers will, if you dig into the specifications, also charge Lithium-ion cells (which want a slightly lower charge oltage, 4.1 vs. 4.2 V). For example, this $20 charger will charge Li-ion.

u/Mcfly56 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

With the battery and charger you have on there they don't match. you can't use a nimh charger on a lipo you'll blow it up.

If you're going to use a lipo battery I use this charger

also with that battery it will only work if your gun is front wired (the plug for the battery is in your handguard) if its rear wired it wont work because you need the battery in the buffer tube.

as far as the gun sack you can pick up a hard rifle case at walmart for under 25$ and it will keep your rifle safe and you can lock it with padlocks if you'd like

I also really wouldn't recommend a paintball mask either cause they usually fog unless you get a really nice one like a dye i4/i5. they are also almost impossible to aim down sights with. I use arena flak jaks as I just pop out the vents and they never fog and you can get cheap replacement lens on ebay

others recommend the pyramix goggles as they are lower profile but I just find it easy for them to move off my eyes by just moving facial muscles

with those if you want lower face protection most people recommend the one tigris as it makes it easy to aim down your sights

bamf mags I've heard many different things on them so i guess it just depends on your gun if they fit they will be good if not kwa k120s, g&p skullfrog, and pts epm are all good mid caps and those go in order from least to most expensive

u/M52engi · 2 pointsr/airsoft

This one is pretty good if you're just looking for a bare-bones charger, but it lacks a discharger feature which is useful for LiPOs:

For a little more you can get this one with the discharge feature, but I have never owned this one:

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I agree with /u/1Davide here entirely. Do not blow off warnings about messing with unprotected Li-Ion cells.

I have seen them ignite nearby materials merely by having the terminals shorted by a split second contact with a screwdriver blade. If they end up igniting themselves (not hard to do btw), good luck putting out that fire with anything but a wheelbarrow full of sand.

Stick to protected, pre-built packs and chargers from non-shady distributors unless you know what you are doing (or care to learn the hard way).

If you are looking for a cheap but reliable charger for DIYing your own pack, though, I'd recommend this one:

u/Ruschnav · 2 pointsr/airsoft

The basic bitch one

Hasn't failed me in the 2 years I've owned it and X amount of charges.

u/Pathian · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You're not really going to find a simple balance charger that will do 2 packs simultaneously.

Balance charging 1 pack at high current is a power hungry operation that requires a microcontroller, so invariably pretty much any charger that will do 2 packs at once is going to be fairly intensive and expensive.

When people buy lipo boxes from me, I generally recommend one of these.

As long as the keep the slider switch on "LiPo", they're fairly impossible to screw up, and they're cheap. So you can buy two if you need to.

u/Rgnxsupreme · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Okay awesome. I just bought the Classic Army Skirmish EC-2 and it has a Deans / Small Tamiya connector.

A couple more things:

So does the 2S and 3S mean a larger battery with longer life? And will that fit in my stock?

What is a good and affordable balance charger that you would recommend? I'm just starting out so trying to ball on a budget. I'm an amazon guy so looking at this one

u/MattyB-02 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Battery I use.

Charger I use.

Pick up 2 of the batteries ( if you have amazon prime it will be cheaper than evike). This should be more than enough to get you through a game day.

EDIT: your batteries will be fine as long as you dont leave them in direct sunlight for long periods. Ive never had a problem with heat..

u/marcusthegladiator · 2 pointsr/bicycling
Theres enough of the wire sticking out that I can bring the charger, to the battery.

u/DoYouLikeMyName27 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Well, you could get a 7.4 or 9.6 butterfly. Both would have about the same battery life, the 9.6 would have like 100 more MaH. But, as I'm sure other people will mention, the 7.4 will be cheaper if you order from the hobby king US warehouse. The only thing I noticed about that particular website is they ship their batteries with odd connectors sometimes. This one seems alright though. For a charger, I like to stick to very basic ones. I have this one and it works fine.

Edit: I dun goofed. Don't get the battery I linked. It's too big for a crane stock.

u/FastAktionJakson · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

Congrats on starting the journey that is bushcraft and woodsmanship. It's such a rewarding pastime. Since you seem to be loading up on gear I have on huge piece of advise for you. I beg you BEG YOU to invest a little bit of money on a good belt knife. Nothing to fancy. Some thing like an Old Hickory butcher knife or a good quality Mora . Both are relatively inexpensive and quality products. When I started out I bought a cheap "survival knife" which wasn't worth the cardboard packaging it came in and then eventually upgraded to the Bear Grylls ultimate survival knife which promptly broke after about 3 overnights of use. Budget bushcraft is fine for most things however spending 15 dollars on a mora you will have to replace MAYBE every 3 or 4 years if you take care of it certainly beats spending 10 dollars 3 or 4 times a year on junk. Good luck and remember... in the famous words of Ray Mears "If you're in the woods and you're 'roughing it' you're doing something wrong"

u/Jmint12 · 2 pointsr/guns
u/alucard_3501 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub
u/AuRelativity · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I really really like a $13 Mora. Rugged, sharp as heck, cheap you don't feel bad really really using it and beating the piss out of it. A real been-there-done-that guy I know recommended them to me and after using one (and having lots of other fixed blades, I truly love it)
They make a serrated also:

If I was going to pick anything maybe one of these:

This with an aftermarket sheath:

Actually what am I smoking. This: 100x this. If you've held it in your hand you know that it is the most comfortable knife I've ever held.

Although the Busse I'm evaluating now is pretty dope.... I still want a Benchmade Bushcrafter.

If it was for overall survival/utility I'd want a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

For Search/Rescue specifically... give me a tanto-point, combo-edge...honking chunk of steel.

Could be persuaded to try these

something stupid and overbuilt (in the best way)

u/cwcoleman · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

Day Packs are abundant. There are dozens that fit the 'hydro port' requirement. It really depends on what other features you need. Most specifically - size. You say 'day pack' slash 'one night pack'. In my experience those are 2 very different bags. A day pack is generally 15-30 liters, depending on how much technical gear you plan to carry (or how cold / snowy it gets). An overnight pack is generally 50-65 liters. I warn against picking an overnight pack based on the number of nights you'll be out. 1 night requires the exact same gear as 10 nights, other than food (which is generally 1 liter per person per day). So if you want a day pack, focus on that. If you want a overnight pack, focus on that. Trying to get 1 that does both jobs well will end up awkward both ways.

u/theoutrider5485 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The man that sharpens my knives locally, explained to me that all dish washing detergents have abrasives in them to clean your dishes better. Abrasives are bed for a keen edge. Personally I have been using
Morakniv Companions as steak knives. I chose these knives because my buddy who is a survival instructor and search and rescue personnel swears by them for anything, outdoors or indoors. The blade lasts forever and the edge on the carbon steel lasts longer than stainless because carbon steel is harder. I bought three and they are pretty amazing. They are carbon steel, so they will acquire their own amazing colors as you use them.

EDIT: Find them here:

u/warriorscall · 2 pointsr/scienceofdeduction

The knife in the green sheath is a Mora, a very well known outdoor knife.

It could be used as a weapon, but that's not what they're known for.

Not sure what the thing that says bang is.

u/Serow · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I really like Mora. They make the Companion which is a really great fixed blade knife for only $15. Hands down the best knife for camping for the price.

u/frenzyboard · 2 pointsr/knives

The delica is a pretty great option for whittling. It's a high carbon blade, so it holds up to wood fibers and hard use pretty well. It's got a solid lockup and zero blade play, so control and safety are taken care of. But honestly, it's a better EDC tool than a carving knife.

Another good option I'd throw out for you are high carbon mora blades.

You might also dig this. It's specially made for wood work.

u/kds1398 · 2 pointsr/Survival

Thank you for your service.

Hard to beat a Mora for the price though, right?

Could you provide your favorites at different prices? I don't know much about what real world experienced people would use.

I use a Fallkniven but I'm a total keyboard commando and I just like knives so I don't know much. I hear esee5 is nice too.

u/trekkie00 · 2 pointsr/Survival

This Mora knife? Can't argue with a $15 knife, looks fairly nice.

u/Tisdale53 · 2 pointsr/army

Get a mora! Fixed blade super cheap super sharp. Easy to sharpen and if you lose it your out 11 dollars


u/MiataTrySlide92 · 2 pointsr/knives
u/spaztheannoyingkitty · 2 pointsr/preppers

If this is for a BOB and you're willing to consider a fixed blade utility knife, you might want to consider the Morakniv Companion:

I have one in my vehicle bag. I haven't used it extensively but it's quality construction, inexpensive, and has a ton of great reviews.

u/amishjim · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

I generally carry a pocketknife, as I have since the 4th grade. A knife is a great tool, in the woods or not. I couldn't imagine going into the woods without one, tho. I always smh when someone gets snarky about carrying knives in the woods. You will only regret not having one when you need it. Lately I have been carrying a Mora on my pack. Super light weight and sharp. Oh, and cheap

u/billyandtheclonasaur · 2 pointsr/camping

I have a Gerber and a Mora that I like, though I would not baton(?) wood with either if that is a requirement.

u/bananaraptor · 2 pointsr/santashelpers

Got my brother one of these (which he loved), then bought one for myself. Pretty nice for the price, and guys like playing with knives.

Kershaw 1605CKTST Black Clash Folding Serrated SpeedSafe Knife

u/GRat9717 · 2 pointsr/EDC

So a few days ago I took a shot at trying a few of the 'cheap' $30 shoulder bags on Amazon. I ordered a bunch and this was the one that remained after a few hours of testing all of them. It holds absolutely everything despite being such a small bag (13.9" Height, 10.5" Width, 4.1" Depth). The pockets make the most sense when compared to competitors. Here is my carry list with some updates that show its full versatility (especially as a personal item when flying). Also, bag link here.

u/TheNoggin · 2 pointsr/knives

LOL, i just bought BOTH of these knives like a month ago(drunk amazon shopping can be dangerous). I thought i would like the brawler better and the blade design does make it better for some stuff i do at work, but it took me all of 2 days to fall for the cryo as my preferred EDC. It feels more solid in my hand, its a bit shorter, and its thinner. The clip on it lets it sit lower in your pocket as well. As someone who is in and of their pockets a good bit the thickness is actually a big plus.

These knives were purchased to replace a Kershaw Clash that i lost and i would definitely recommend looking into that one as well if you havent already, i really liked it but just wanted to get something different.

u/HolyCelestia · 2 pointsr/army

If you want a cheap one from a well known brand, get a Kershaw 1900. Had it since last year and no issues at all. Kershaw is pretty well known too.

u/DivisionMatrix · 2 pointsr/AskMenOver30

I carry one of these daily. It's light, holds a decent edge, and it's cheap enough that I don't mind abusing it.

u/_bd_ · 2 pointsr/knives

Thanks, but I can't find a version with a plain blade, just with part serrated blade.

But in the suggestions at Amazon i found the Kershaw 1990 Brawler (link) which looks good. Not "as tanto" (can't think of a better description but I hope you understand what i mean) as I'd like but for the prize it seems like a good alternative.

u/I_Like_Knives · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Don't know if you like tanto or not, but you might like the Brawler

u/JoeReal · 2 pointsr/Knife_Swap

Why don't you just pick up your friends 4 of these?

u/cxrattenbury · 2 pointsr/EDC

I really like this

u/Harnar · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Oh shit I forgot, here it is

u/Peoples_Bropublic · 2 pointsr/knives

How about a Kershaw Cryo ($25)?

For a bit more money, there's a Kersahw Blur with S30V, but the blade is a touch too long.

u/slowwburnn · 2 pointsr/knives

For cheap assisted knives, Kershaw is the way to go. You can get an OSO sweet under $20, or a cryo under $25, both of which are popular around here in their price range. If you have a little more to spend, the Leek is a great choice.

u/darthrio · 2 pointsr/EDC

Its a bit pricy but I love the Olight S1 Baton Mini in copper and the Kershaw Cryo

u/nward21 · 2 pointsr/EDC

After much deliberation and research, I just ordered myself a Kershaw Cryo 1555ti

Thanks again

u/natrlselection · 2 pointsr/knives

I'm a big fan of the Kershaw Cryo because of the spring assisted open. It's got a rock-solid feel when open and locked, and there's a lifetime warranty on the knife. The spring will break at some point, but when it does obviously the knife still cuts, and you can mail it back to Kershaw who will fix it, clean it, sharpen it and send it back for free.

u/eltonnovs · 2 pointsr/knives

Well, for a low budget you can't beat the ontario rat 1.

Not bashing cheap beater knives, but the one you're using is a classic 'tacticool mall knife', stick as much stuff on it as you can and put a semper fi in the name. Done! If that's what you like, fine but they're not known for their high quality. Pretty much everything you get will be an upgrade.

Maybe also take a look at these

u/lurkingmouse · 2 pointsr/EDC

Kershaw Cryo is $22 on amazon right now... usually $50+

I have the Cryo 2 Tanto. Love it!

u/sanguinesolitude · 2 pointsr/EDC

i like this citizen as a nice but not crazy expensive watch. it's my normal wear watch

griptillian from benchmade is my favorite EDC if you can afford one (not crazy expensive, and you will love it)

inexpensive carry knife i like this kershaw

u/Rocket_Puppy · 2 pointsr/EDC

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:

The Ontario Rat I/II

Kershaw Cryo

CRKT Squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

u/PizzaGood · 2 pointsr/funny

Non crappy mobile link:

I like the Kershaw Needs Work for EDC utility though.

u/panda_handler · 2 pointsr/knives

The Kershaw Cryo is a tacticool-looking knife that's also affordable and well-made.

u/beley · 2 pointsr/EDC

37/M E-commerce Entrepreneur

My current EDC, clockwise starting at the far left:

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/tifu

A knife is always a good gift. You can get a fairly nice knife for $30, or a pretty decent knife for $15. If you don't feel like shopping online, you could even pick up a Gerber Mini Paraframe for $10 at Walmart. They're really more affordable gifts than you'd think.

The best part is, they're good gifts for everyone. If they're a knife enthusiast, they'll always be glad for another knife, they can always use a cheap knife as a beater knife. If they've never carried a knife, they'll give it a try and realize how convenient it is.

I gave my girlfriend the Gerber Mini Paraframe after she kept borrowing my knife. She scoffed at first, but tossed it in her purse, a week later she thanked me, saying how often it's saved the day. 3 years later, she still carries it in her purse.

u/mynameisnyx · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The not-in-public item: because I feel like carrying a huge plush Cthulu will make people look at me funny. (on the $10-$20 list)

The phallic item, without the wings it kinda looks that way :P (main list)

The most geeky item was the hardest for me to choose because there are so many of them but I ended up going with this one because I think tabletop D&D is nerdier than Minecraft. (10-20)

The best item to bring to a deserted island is this because I could cut things and peel things and take down large beasts..... okay, maybe that one was kind of ambitious. (main)

u/So1911 · 2 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

Just my opinion, but planned or not planned, anyone doing any sort of actual backcountry camping would never have the capacity to carry even a single sharpening stone as a requirement. I've done lots of camping, from campground car camping to multiple weeks, and I can't imagine any situation where having a full water stone set up would be a benefit. You have to soak the stones which is a waste of clean water, and the weight is significant.

Everybody is different and prepares their own way, so I'm not knocking someone who would bring a couple of stones and sharpen their knives as a "fun" way to pass some time while camping in a campground... But to say that you need stones for a backcountry trip in the wilderness is tough for me to wrap my mind around.

I use one of these for camping/vacations:

u/jafnvaegi · 2 pointsr/knives

A BladeMedic is an inexpensive and quite easy approach to get you started. :)

u/achensherd · 2 pointsr/whittling

Recurves are a pain to sharpen. For simple touch-ups, I just use the bottom of a coffee mug. If the knife is significantly dulled, then I use a sharpening rod like the one on this.

u/Atook · 2 pointsr/bowhunting

I'd start w/ a rangefinder if you can afford it.

Don't worry about special knives. Any small knife will do the trick to dress a deer or elk in the field. You really don't need more than a 2-inch blade. I keep a sharpener like this in my pack, but don't usually need it till half way through the skinning process, and by that time I'm back at camp/the house.

If you can't drag the deer out, you may need to quarter it, in that case a little saw might be helpful till you get the hang of disarticulating the shoulder and hip joints. Game bags might come in handy if you need to do that. A frame pack is useful for packing out quarters.

Maybe a couple yards of surveyor's tape for marking blood trail, be sure to go back and clean up your marking tape if you use it, littering isn't cool.

20 feet of para cord, it's just good to have.

Good luck out there.

u/astrangeone88 · 2 pointsr/vaporents

The older version of this (without the serrated area). I used what I had on hand (am a fan of pocketknives and this is my "I am too lazy to break out the actual whetstone/diamond grinding pad".)

I used the rod shaped thing.

u/jrodrox · 2 pointsr/knives

Mod told me to post here, post is pasted below:

Currently have several knives, two EDC knives, and one full tang knife. Trolling through many forums, reddits, and tutorials, I was wondering what are the best ways to clean, lubricate, and sharpen knives without ruining them.
Currently have this product for sharpening but I have heard that stones can produce a better edge. Also have not educated on what each part is most useful for.
Thanks in advance!

u/ramses0 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Restaurant supply store. Full tang, riveted handle (no nooks, crannies, bends, or joints for food/bacteria to get caught). like this

BladeMedic (will let you sharpen serrations!), or I like this smaller one for semi-daily use.

Buy a 10" Chef's knife, a smaller paring knife (~4" maybe?), then personally I bought a 6" serrated ceramic knife which doubles up as bread-knife and lettuce knife. Like this one but ignore all the scammy reviews. Ended up giving away my 6" non-serrated ceramic knife b/c my steel knives were always sharper. I hardly ever use this one but if you find it for a good price (maybe ~$20?) then I'd maybe say go for it. I'd also be tempted by the regular $10 steel one as well, though.

You're in for ~$20 on the chef's knife, $10 on the paring knife, $20 total on the sharpener(s) and optionally another $10-20 on the serrated ones. Most people never use any of the other knives in a block, I keep mine nice and separated, laying flat in a drawer.

Oooh! Last bit... Kitchen Shears, these I actually do specifically recommend, they're great quality and look good too. Instead of slicing a pizza with a knife, you can cut it with scissors. Same with fajita meat. A lot of times I'll use tongs + scissors and am able to process meat right in the same pan I'm cooking it.

So... $75 and you'll have a very nice setup. Maybe I'd add a Santoku or small-medium Cleaver, and then try to figure out table-knives or steak-knives, but that'd follow a similar process for me. I'd be much more willing to buy a fancy set of 4-8 steak knives though than I would a traditional / full wood block setup.


u/Nathan51503 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

i have been using the worksharp guided field sharpener and the worksharp guided (table top) sharpener for a few years now. very happy with them. in fact the "field" sharpener thats handy portable sized. i have 3 of them. home, backpack, hunting pack etc...




u/turkeypants · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

r/knives has a weekly sharpening thread stickied at the top where you can loiter and learn. I'm like you and am currently looking at the $25 Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, a compact boi that has diamond plates, ceramic rods, a leather strop, and sharpening angle guides. I don't need it for field use, but I just want to get a taste basically. As my first dip into sharpening other than the little stones that came in the pockets of fixed blade sheaths, I figure it's a good place to start to touch things up a bit and get some practice. Maybe once I do a bit of that and learn a bit more, I might upgrade to something more.

u/mellonmarshall · 2 pointsr/EDC

how about this
it looks good and can be used for any angle,

u/OoogaOoogaYoink · 2 pointsr/knives

I'll give you some options here instead of just one choice.

This CRKT is a wonderful tool.

If you'd like another Spyderco you can't go wrong with a Dragonfly or a Centofante III.

If you've never got a Kershaw they're killer knives for the price. The Leek is a great introduction.

Or, you could buy 2 knives with your fifty. Ontario's RAT I and RAT II are some sweet knives.

Depending on your taste. You simply cannot go wrong with any of these knives.

u/sgrantcarr · 2 pointsr/knives

[Ontario RAT II] (

At $24, it's a steal. I'd say it's worth between 2 and 3 times what it goes for. My favorite sub-$100 knife I've tried by far!

I recently picked up a Benchmade Small Summit Lake for $99 (plus tax put it at $108), and I LOVE it! It was my first high-quality knife. It took a $108 knife for me to replace my $24 RAT II as my EDC. They're that good.

u/Ruffianlink · 2 pointsr/EDC

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/TheThreeLaws · 2 pointsr/EDC

Another great budget EDC knife is the Ontario RAT 2

Ontario Knife OKC Rat Ii Sp-Black Folding Knife, 7Inches

u/SJToIA · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You have a lot of good choices available within the $50 range. My personal two top choices for a small, inexpensive but well built folder would be the Ontario RAT 2 and the Cold Steel Tuff Lite. Both are under $30, easy to carry, and very capable. If you want more of that traditional look, go with the best Case model you can afford. Great Eastern Cutlery is really nice too for traditionals, but a bit more pricey. Another option might be an Opinel, classy and inexpensive.

u/SirNerdian · 2 pointsr/knives

Thanks! Now I have it down to the cryo 2 blackwash and the rat 2

u/Taboggan · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the

  • Kershaw Skyline

    This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.

  • Kershaw Leek

    Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.

  • Spyderco Delica

    Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.

  • Ontario RAT 2

    The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.

  • ESEE Izula

    I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.


    Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
u/dracox93 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ontario Knife OKC Rat Ii Sp-Black Folding Knife, 7Inches


u/sindex23 · 1 pointr/CampingGear

You should sharpen before heading out - I don't see why you'd carry the weight to sharpen on a trip. That said, this seemed pretty popular on Massdrop.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System. That link is to Amazon, where it's around $30.

u/reddit_is_filth · 1 pointr/Cooking

I've used that same machine (or at least one very similar) professionally. It's fine if you have a really fucked up knife and you have to start a new edge from scratch. I'd use it when I worked in kitchens, if only for speed's sake. If I even had a few minutes to spare, I'd always touch up with a tri-hone.

Insta-edit: If you don't trust yourself to use a tri-hone effectively, there's always a Lansky kit. That thing works wonders.

u/gun-nut · 1 pointr/holdmyfries

I really like my Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

It's how I sharpen my dozens of knifes. Is not as fast as a small belt sander but it's a lot more relaxing and I can get my knifes shaving sharp. I don't even own a razor (I have a beard but I still need to clean up the edges sometimes) and it works on all of my knifes.

u/Toastalicious_ · 1 pointr/videos

What about this system?

There's no 15 degree option, but you get what I mean.

u/Phuzzybear · 1 pointr/Chefit

Honing steels are more for edge maintenance, if your knife has already gone dull, you'll need to sharpen it.

If you're just getting into it, or don't want to risk messing up nice knives, consider getting something like a Lansky Sharpener set, they are relatively inexpensive, and a good starting point.

If you're willing to put a little more time and energy into it, you'll probably get better results with a 1000/3000 combination whetstone and a knife guide, you probably do not want to try sharpening freehand until you get a feel for it. This Tojiro video is not a bad place to start watching.

u/nickfreeman14 · 1 pointr/spyderco

No its this one.

u/test18258 · 1 pointr/knives

Its sad how many "professionals" out there are just morons with a belt sander.

Assuming that your trying to only spend whats on that gift card you looking at the lansky clamp system or one of the chinese edge pro knockoff sharpeners.

the lansky is a decent sharpener but can be a little bit fiddly to work with. however its capable of leaving a mirror polished perfectly flat edge once you know how to use it properly.


The edge pro clones are going to be various levels of quality as they are chinese clones of an actual quality product. And if you do decide to get an edge pro knock off please get real edge pro stones or aftermarket stones made fro the edge pro the ones that come with the chinese clones tend to be garbage.

fake edge pro

I know you probably want to spend the money on the amazon gift card but you can also find knife sharpeners for relatively cheap on things like craigslist or here on /r/Knife_Swap

If your willing to spend more than the $50 on the giftcard there are a few more sharpeners that become available such as the spyderco sharpmaker, a real edge pro (cheaper varients apex 1,2 or 3 dont buy the version thats $700) a KME, wicked sharp, and a few others.

If you do decide to get the edge pro I would highly suggest getting the real thing if you can afford it. The edge pro stock stones are perfectly servicable but many of the aftermarket stones for it are way better.

Though if you are on a budget for this you could also get the chinese fake and get some either stock or aftermarket edge pro stones.

The only systems I have personal experience with are the edge pro and the spyderco sharpmaker though the rest of the ones I mentioned come highly recommended often.

u/stonewall1979 · 1 pointr/Woodcarving

You could try a sharpening jig system like a Lansky stone system for your knives. There are a lot of other jig systems you can look at.

For chisels, do you have an Angle Honing Guide or are you free handing it? It's hard to free hand a blade & stone when you're new to it.

u/grrfunkel · 1 pointr/knives

So if you were to buy one, which would you buy? Also what do you think about guided sharpeners like the Lansky sharpening system or the Spyderco Sharpmaker?

EDIT: or the DMT DMGEF Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System to go with the DMT Diafold

u/BrynRock · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I use the Lansky guided system and it gives me a good edge. I have the set that comes with 5 grits and it works well. It will take about 30~45 minutes if the knife is completely dull. It will give the knife a near mirror finish but you can finish with a strop and get a good polished edge. The guides work well and make them process very easy. I'll say that I've found it very helpful to mount the clamp in a vise or fasten it to a block wood. The systems are easily find on Amazom. I think I paid about $35.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/0OKM9IJN8UHB7 · 1 pointr/gadgets

A good knife sharpening kit, Lansky makes a good one.

u/doomsday_solforge · 1 pointr/knifemaking

For some links (again, not to endorse amazon, but...):

I use this sharpener system, also with an auxiliary diamond extra coarse sharpener and leather strop.

For the initial edge setting, I use this surgisharp edge tool:

It lets me put 20 degrees or whatever on the edge with a belt, and then use the stones.

Finally, I use a 1x30 stropping belt ( to get a super sharp edge at the end.

It's a little expensive, but I think it's worth it. I can shave with the knives I sharpen.

u/RIKENAID · 1 pointr/knives

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

You'll also need the stand for it.

Lansky Universal Mount

Watch some tutorials on YouTube to find all the little tricks for it. The big thing is that you will essentially have to reprofile any edge the first time use the shapener on it. After that you can just touch it up with the finer stones.

u/freedoomed · 1 pointr/knives

OK, i looked into your sharpener a little more and it is not as bad as i thought. the way yours works is it has a spinning diamond coated wheel and the plastic housing guides the knife at the correct angle against the diamond wheel. This style of sharpener won't destroy your edge like a carbide sharpener will. However diamond is very aggressive as an abrasive material. This means that you are probably taking off way too much material from the edge of your knife than you need to. This means you are shortening the life of your knives. This sharpener also only has two stages of sharpening which means you are not getting much of a polish on your knife edges. The higher the polish the more of a slice you are getting as opposed to a rip. This is both good and bad. cutting some materials requires a more 'toothy' edge to the knife but if you are slicing meat you don't want a toothy edge.

In short what you have is adequate for the average kitchen. if you want better results you will need to upgrade to a better sharpener.

The work sharp is basically a miniature belt sander. by having replaceable belts you have a sharpener that basically has an unlimited life, those diamond wheels will eventually wear down. by having replaceable belts you are able to change the abrasiveness of the belt. when sharpening a knife you want to move to progressively finer grits. this grit progression will ensure that you are not spending longer than you need to on finer grits and it will get you a highly polished blade edge. the work sharp belts are flexible which means you will also get what is called a convex edge. so instead of being a perfect V the V will be bowed out slightly. this provides a much stronger edge due to the shape. the wheels in the chef's choice will grind to a concave edge or what is known as a hollow grind. a hollow grind provides a much thinner edge. thinner edges tend to be sharper but they also tend to chip and not hold their edge as well as a convex edge.

amazon has the lansky sharpening system for $36

the lansky system will provide you with similar results to the work sharp in terms of edge polish and sharpness but it will give you the standard V edge. these clamp style sharpeners are very popular because they work really well. with a clamp style sharpener you will spend much more time on a single knife than with the work sharp.

u/Adolf_ · 1 pointr/knives

So this or this?

u/EbayNachos · 1 pointr/knives

Well first off, for hiking, the last thing I would recommend would be an all black, "tactical", tanto pointed, ka-bar stamped, crop circle handled thing as such.

But alas...

Good sharpeners that are always reccommeneded would be either the Spyderco Sharpmaker or a Lanksy.

u/nkosoana · 1 pointr/AskReddit

what do you think of something like this?

u/Spaghetti_Already · 1 pointr/knifeclub

That looks amazing, how much did it all cost?

I'd love to get my blade mirror polish like that but I don't want to spend a lot.

Is this one the one you used?

u/gheedsgreed · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I think people around here usually recommend Lansky's guided system:

I personally use the DMT aligner kit.

u/no_eu · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The first sharpener I got was a Natural Stones Lansky system which was fine. It doesn't require much skill and it got my knives sharp enough to shave hairs off. If you opt for a Lanksy though, I would recommend the Diamond Stones because they cut faster and are easier to clean.

When I started freehand sharpening, I got a Smith's Tri-hone which worked nicely. It was cheap and I was bad at freehanding, but with a good bit of practice, trial and error, and some instructional videos I was able to produce hair shaving edges consistently. And eventually, I decided I favored freehand sharpening over fixed angle sharpeners.

However, I gave away my Lansky and Smith's Tri-hone. Right now, I use DMT continuous sharpening stones. They cut very fast and I like them a lot. I'm a broke college student, so all I have is the Coarse, Fine, and Extra Fine stones which I can consistently get a toothy edge that will still shave hairs.

I'd say I'm still pretty bad at freehand sharpening. I don't always hold consistent angles and sometimes I fuck up a knife pretty bad, but I usually know what I did wrong and try to improve the next time I sharpen a knife. So whatever you get, meter your expectations. The first few knives you sharpen probably won't come out the best, but with enough practice, and especially patience, at the very least you'll get your knife sharp again.

u/kowalski71 · 1 pointr/AskMen

I have a basic arkansas stone that works very well at what it does... but I'm not necessarily a pro at what I do. Hand sharpening on a stone requires you to hold the knife at a very constant angle while working it through a relatively complex motion. Very difficult to get a good edge but if you practice and get the skills it's the cheapest and most versatile method of sharpening. Most people (definitely myself included) also need a decent preexisting edge to sharpen as they can 'set' the knife on that flat. Much harder if the existing edge is crap.

What I have for quick and dirty sharpening is a Lansky set. A bracket clamps to the knife and holds a rod (attached to the stone) at essentially a constant angle to the blade. It has some issues so I don't use it on the knives I really care about but it's good for really quickly bringing a beat knife back to a decently usable edge. I use my Lansky set on kitchen knives.

However, if you're willing to spend a bit more money, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very well reviewed product. I suppose this is my 'Everest' tip as I don't actually have one but I'll buy one eventually, when I have a particularly profitable feeling month. The idea here is that it's much easier to hold a knife vertical than at some obscure angle like 27 degrees. The put the sharpening stone on the angle then essentially do a 'chopping' motion along the stone to bring an edge in. It solves a lot of the problems of the Lansky but doesn't require as much skill as just a stone. These are rather well regarded in the knife community, though those guys still go after hand sharpening.

u/sauceLegs · 1 pointr/knifeclub

After reading through the comments, you really can't go wrong with either the BM940 or the ZT0450. Also, a cheaper and just as great sharpening set is the Lansky System. All you need to add to it are the Leather and Diamond strops, oh and the Stand.

u/neuromonkey · 1 pointr/woodworking

You aren't, believe me. About six years ago I decided that I was going to learn to sharpen knives well. Yup. I managed to get a handful of blades passably sharp for routine kitchen work, but not reliably. I got a Lansky sharpening system and that helped to convince me that I am probably mentally deficient. I've made a little progress over the six years, but... only a little.

Keep at it! Eventually you'll be pretty good at it. You'll be really, really old, but... you'll get there. ;)

u/armchairracer · 1 pointr/knives

What's the preferred knife sharpener for large knives? I have a [Lansky sharpener](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System for my pocket knives but it doesn't give an even edge geometry on blades longer than about 3 1/2 inches. I'm looking for something for my 8 inch chef knife. For the people that are going to suggest freehanding with a wetstone, I've screwed up knives in the past because I couldn't keep the angle consistent so I'd rather use something that holds the angle for me.

u/Freezerburn · 1 pointr/knives
u/uberfastman · 1 pointr/knives

I'll second /u/super_octopus 's post! I've got the Sharpmaker and it works great for all my knives, from my Buck 505 with a 1.875" blade to my custom Bowie and Kukri both with over 6" blades. The system is pretty affordable (under $60).

Alternately I've heard really good things about the Lansky system, either the three stone or five stone sets, both of which are even more affordable (under $40).

I've also got a few diamond coated whetstones for freehand sharpening, which work great too, but you just have to be prepared to go slow at first and learn how to hold your blades at the proper angles and sharpen them evenly. DMT makes some good diamond coated whetstones.

So definitely watch a few youtube videos, read the sidebar guide /u/super_octopus pointed out to you, and if you're still unsure on technique, once you get something to sharpen your knives with, try to practice first with some old beater knife or cheap blade that you might not mind having to sharpen a little extra in case it takes you a while to get it right.

u/Phillije · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I'd suggest a Lansky knife sharpening system I believe the deluxe version has an extra coarse hone (70 grit) if you need that to re-profile the blade. It also has an extra fine hone (1000 grit) so you can really polish it up. Additionally you can get a strop as well.

Just looked it up, it's on offer. From $76.22 down to a very reasonable $33.99.

u/SOULSofFEAT · 1 pointr/Cooking

You could try something like this kit:

I was thinking about picking one up but decided to stick with my two grit stone for now.

u/crick2000 · 1 pointr/knives
u/Critter10 · 1 pointr/army

Buy 2

Easy to sharpen, small, and hold an edge relatively well.
I'm one of those guys that can appreciate benchmade and kershaw, but can't swallow the price on a tool I'm likely to abuse and/or lose. CRKT knives have done well for me and I've only managed to lose 2 in the last 7 years. I have about 5 as of now, a few bigger ones that don't see much use and 3 or 4 of these smaller ones that see regular use.

Buy something like this to keep sharp things sharp.

I sharpen my daily carry knives about once every 2-3 months. All my knives get sharpened once a year.

u/AnotherMadHatter · 1 pointr/knives

I am not trying to come off as a Lansky fanboy.

I actually bought the Gatco first and used it, and it definitely was a lot cheaper than the Lansky. I am not sure if it was just the quality of the stones or not, but after using it, I am here to tell you, the stones really do matter that much.

I started with the most basic Lansky kit I could get, with like three stones. Then later I bought another finer stone, and then later still bought the triangular stone for sharpening some serrated knives.

Hell, right now at Amazon the 5 stone kit is $33.49 I do not know your budget, (I am an Engineer and my wife is retired with a comfortable retirement income, so I sometimes forget that what I consider inexpensice is different than what others consider expensive) but that is actually a lot lower than I paid for mine because I was dumb enough to buy my first kit in a knife store.

u/IAmAPhysicsGuy · 1 pointr/DIY

Sure! Here is what I originally started with. It works great once I have an edge, but setting the edge took a lot of time on really dull knives so I bought this extra coarse diamond hone. I love it, it sets my bevel in minutes so I can go back and finish the edge with the fine stones. For a few extra bucks, you can buy the whole diamond set. I would also recommend getting the mount so you can safely attach it to a workspace.

And finally, I learned how to use the system from Aaron Gough in his video here

u/konzy27 · 1 pointr/knifeclub
u/aarongough · 1 pointr/howto

I use a Lansky sharpener for sharpening my blades:

You could alter the filing jig to sharpen the knives too, but it's probably easier and more efficient to get the Lansky sharpener. If you're sharpening knives that have never been sharpened before (like ones you've made) then I recommend going with the diamond Lansky set, as the diamond stones are much faster.

u/zx80r · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I suggest you get a good pocket knife, sharpen the shit out of it and use it. Snap-on makes a good few. Lansky makes good sharpeners, use a swirl motion. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
And never post on the Internet and feel stupid again.

u/auntie-matter · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

How do you feel about the Lansky system with the clamp and guide rods and so on?

I just broke my fancy (and old!) Kyocera powered diamond wheel sharpener and am looking for something good but affordable to replace it with to keep my kitchen knives in order. I'd like a set of water stones but I'm a bit broke and frankly I don't want to spend the time learning how to hold a knife at just the right angle.

u/TeeDubya1 · 1 pointr/balisong

Cheap and easy is the Lansky system from Amazon. $32 and you can repair (reset a bevel) and simply sharpen a blade easily. You can get the 3 stone one for $25 but 2 extra grits for $7 extra is worth it. Just follow the short instructions and you'll be good to go.

u/bushdid9711 · 1 pointr/knives

I have the regular “Lansky sharpening system” the one you can choose your angle and go to town. I bought more stones (more course and more fine) and I enjoy it more than a freehand type like you’re suggesting.
Mines similar to this:
Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
Though mines a few years older.
That’s what I personally use and recommend. I can choose my angle from 17, 20, 25, and 30 Degrees depending on what I’m using the knife for.
Sorry if this is typed badly I’m running on about 4 hours of sleep.

u/dougbtv · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

You might try a lansky knife sharpening system. I have been sharpening my knives for years with the same (relatively) inexpensive set. Or a slightly more expensive diamond set. You can reprofile a knife with these, so, for just regular sharpening make sure you use only the finer stones.

...For a axe / hatchet you do want a sharpening puck. And if you carry an axe or hatchet -- do yourself a favor and sharpen it regularly.

And get yourself a strop, too.

People who are a lot more technical about it use water stones, and more expensive knife sharpening rigs. But for me, the lansky is totally sufficient (and I do appreciate a honed blade)

edit: grammar

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The key to proper sharpening is a consistent angle. Some people can hand sharpen with success, but this requires a ton of time and practice to master. Products like the Lansky Turn Box and Spyderco Sharpmaker both hold the sharpening rods at an angle and it's left up to the user to keep the knife straight while sharpening. Some argue that your sharpener should have a guide system in order to keep a consistent angle. These systems will clamp the blade in place and have a guide for the rods, which for the most part eliminates the variable of the users hand not staying straight. The Lansky 5 Rod sharpener is an entry level guided system that is very reasonably priced IMO and works well. Some pros (not me by any means) insist on using products like the Edge Pro Apex or Wicked Edge systems which have the ability to have near perfect angles. These are both several hundred dollar systems and are way over kill for the casual user IMO. I'd say go for the Lansky 5 Rod, otherwise jump in where your budget allows.

u/HandiCapablePanda · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Okay thank you very much! Do you have any tool recommendations for beveling the edge and also sharpening the blade? Is there a tool that can do both of these jobs with a different attachment? I was thinking about purchasing the lansky sharpening system. Is there something similar in which I can also attach a mill file to produce the bevel? I would want something to purchase, not plans to build and something less than $100 if possible. The bevel I'm thinking about is probably 1/4 of an inch or 3/8ths.

Thank you!

u/T1978_sach · 1 pointr/oddlysatisfying

Absolutely! Steel knives are made to be sharpened, there is no such thing as a blade that stays sharp forever. Either get a fixed angle system like the Lansky or go with traditional Japanese water stones. Stones take much longer to learn and are an entire rabbit hole on their own but you can get amazing results.

u/deckyon · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Everyone answering in here will give you a different way to go. You need to find what works for you. The biggest thing to think about in field vs home is, how long will you be in the field? If its for a weekend, then personally, I dont even bring a stone with me. I wipe down the blade before sheathing it, and I worry about it when I get home.

Now, I was raised by my dad (hunter) to treat your knives like you treat your guns when it comes to cleaning. When you get home, you do a full inspection, cleaning and sharpening. For the carbon knives, I use gun oil (Remington spray, yellow and green can). Spray it down, clean it up with a cotton towel, if there are spots, then put more oil on and rub (with the grain) it down with medium to light pressure using the RED scrubbie. Not the green, they are too abrasive, and the red ones have anti-rusting compounds. You can do the same for the stainless, you just wont need the scrubbies as often. If you are not going to use your carbon knives for a while (more than a month) then wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the oil, then put a coat of turtle wax (from the tub, not the bottle) and leave it sit. Do not store either in their sheathes, especially if the sheath is leather. Condensation is killer.

Then, before you head back out in the woods, do a check of the knife and a good cleaning and coat of oil (wiping excess off). Check for nicks, burs, folds, rusting and treat as necessary. It is really the same as for firearms. You cant clean them too often, and must clean after every use.

If you will be in the woods for an extended period of time, bring some oil and a couple different grit stones to hone while out. I use a Lansky 5-stone kit both at home and throw it in the kit now. Got a great demo and tutorial this past weekend with it, and it really works well with practice.

Treat even your cheap knives like firearms when it comes to maintenance and they will last much longer than expected.

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/Cooking

+1 for the Lansky system, it's inexpensive, simple, and produces repeatable results. I got the 5-stone set for under $40.

u/Hatandboots · 1 pointr/knives

I just got the Lansky Deluxe kit and it worked wonders for me. Got my old Mora to a smooooth 17° finish. I'd recommend it. The kit is decently small and comes with everything you need for any knife.

I'm also pretty new to sharpening, so getting a 3 year old Morakniv back to shaving sharp is a huge success for me :)

u/siamonsez · 1 pointr/Tools

Which Lansky do you have, one of [these[(

I've always been hesitant about getting into sharpening with stones because of the price, but that's not bad.

u/anomalousbagel · 1 pointr/knives

Buck 110

Buck Knives 0110BRS 110 Famous Folding Hunter Knife with Genuine Leather Sheath

u/KamiCrit · 1 pointr/knives
u/SystemFolder · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

With proper care, my Buck 110 and my Fender Squier Standard Stratocaster should outlive me and my son.

u/hurricanefalcon · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

These are very good knives although kind of pricey. You also can't go wrong with This classic. If that's to big, just search for the Buck 55. It's the same knife but smaller. Overall very reliable.

u/hankhill78 · 1 pointr/knives

Looks like a knock off of a Buck 110.

Buck 110 Famous Folding Hunter Knife with Genuine Leather Sheath

u/TJHibbard · 1 pointr/WhatsInThisThing

Buck 110 by the look of it!
Great, great knife.

u/norcon · 1 pointr/knives
u/FTO_dude · 1 pointr/knives
u/MyOwnHurricane · 1 pointr/EDC

For what it's worth, my brother had the same needs as he works on a college campus and I got him an Ontario RAT 1. Another great traditional looking knife is the Buck 110BRS Lockback Folder, it's a classic style and has no tac-appeal to it at all.

u/Drewshua · 1 pointr/MTB

It is their signature knife.

The 110 is cheap and durable. Good bang for your buck.

u/PhDeeezNutz · 1 pointr/knives

this one, right? It looks familiar, I think my dad might've had one back in the day.

Thanks for the recommendation -- only concern I have is that it looks difficult to open with one hand...?

u/A_StandardToaster · 1 pointr/EDC

Why not a Spyderco Tenacious?

Granted, it is about twice as heavy as the KISS, but with the weight you get G10 scales, a practical blade (Chisel grind tantos are made for stabbing people, they're profoundly "meh" for utility), and Spyderco quality. I've heard good things about CRKT, but you mind as well spend the extra couple bucks for a much better knife (IMO).

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/EDC

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link:

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/AceofSpad3s · 1 pointr/EDC

Okay here are some suggestions

  1. Wallet. I have not ordered it yet but [this] ( cigarette case could work.
  2. Knife: [Spyderco tenacious] ( is $32 and a little more than 3 inches or the [Spyderco ambitious] ( which is a baby tenacious with a 2 1/4 inch blade and $29.
    While they are not tactical opinels are really nice and are near $10 and come in lots of sizes.

  3. Pens: I have a [zerbra 701] ( and a [Fisher space bullet pen] ( For the money the zebra is excellent, the bullet pen is nice but there is a tutorial on how to mode the zebra to take space pen refills which is the best of both.
  4. I know you got the wave but I suggest getting a small mt like a sak or a leatherman ps4 or micra. The victorinox classic sd is good and about $10

    Also with all the stuff you want to carry, It might be wise to invest in a maxpediton micro pocket organizer which is about $15
    If you got any questions just ask.
u/cyclefreaksix · 1 pointr/knives

This is a fantastic knife at a great price. I have the same knife with the exception being mine is the serrated version. I have many knives, quite a few of them are much more expensive than my Tenacious but it's the one that ends up in my pocket most often.

u/animal-mother · 1 pointr/AskReddit

It's pretty normal where I come from. A folding knife, a multitool with a knife, and another one. I'll probably get another in the future.

u/merkon · 1 pointr/EDC

In that price range, I'd recommend something made by Kershaw, the Spyderco Tenacious, or an Ontario Rat. if you give me more criteria I can narrow down the suggestions as well.

u/NoRedditAtWork · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Sure, I can understand that, though I think you should consider whether 3-4 'meh' quality knives is better to have than 1 solid knife. I went from Kershaws and CRKT's to Spyderco (there are other manufacturers if you don't like Spyderco) and noticed a difference in what I was getting for my money. I also started giving away a lot of knives because I found myself carrying 1-3 out of the 20 I had. I'd much rather have combined all the useless knives I bought into one decent one looking back on it.

That said, most everyone goes through their 'collect a bunch of cheap stuff' phase and I don't want to kill the fun of that. Realistically though, I'd take all the money you spent on those four and get one of these instead, if I had a time machine.

u/500SL · 1 pointr/knives

Quality tools cost a bit more. It will last longer, and give you better service.

Spyderco makes several good EDC choices IMHO. Look at a Tenacious or a Delica to start.

SOG also makes quality knives. I'm partial to the Flash II Tanto, but it comes in several blade styles.

Either way, make sure you get a good sharpening system and learn to keep your knife sharp.

A sharp knife is a safe knife

u/MrSparkle713 · 1 pointr/EDC

Somebody probably mentioned this one already, but the Spyderco Tenacious is a great folder. If you have Amazon Prime, the price is only about $35. I think that is what you typically see them going for in stores too. Basically you should not be paying the $60 ticket price on one, but people (my dad included) swear by them.

I have a Benchmade Griptilian that I have carried for years, but for the price you can't beat the Spyderco.

u/BigDonads · 1 pointr/cigars
u/bbb2011 · 1 pointr/Knife_Swap

I have a Spyderco Tenacious that I got and did not like. I threw away the box, but I only wore it for a day and did not cut anything at all with it.

What would you be willing to trade for it? If you want it.

u/rcarey1988 · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

Cannot go wrong with a spyderco tenacious ...good quality knife for a reasonable price $33

u/NewZJ · 1 pointr/knives

I have 2 knives. A Spyderco Tenacious G-10, and a Kershaw 1660 Ken Onion Leek

I'll start with the course diamond and do about 20 passes towards the cutting edge (as if I'm trying to shave the sharpener instead of scraping the blade against it) on each side moving the diamond at an angle so the entire blade was touched. Then the same with the fine diamond, then the same with the Arkansas stone. I'm using the shallow angle option on the blade holder.

I don't strop the blades afterwards with leather.

Good idea about marking the blade edge with a Sharpe, I'll try that.

u/gedden8co · 1 pointr/knives

I found my CRKT Ichi, amazon link, on ebay for $15.
Also you would be fine buying any Spyderco, Benchmade, Kershaw, or CRKT, that fits your budget.
I also have a Spyderco Tenacious that I love.

u/t3hbl4d3s · 1 pointr/canadaguns


There are a bunch of different versions if you just search for Ka Bar, black, serrated, etc. The black sheath I also got from Amazon, figure I'll attach it to my hunting bag or something, I prefer the leather one for wearing.

u/mynameishere · 1 pointr/jobs
u/Bananno76 · 1 pointr/knives

My father was in the marines in the 70s and came home when I was somewhere between 1 or 2. April 22 was his birthday and I always have a hard time finding a present for the old bastard. I stumbled across this on amazon one night trying to get ideas. I have never seen his eyes light up like they did that day. He looked like a little kid on christmas. Apparently before he went in one of my grandfathers friends gave him his kbar that he used in ww2 island hopping in the pacific and he had etched the places he had been in the blade. Some scumbag stole that knife from him just before he was to leave to come home. Definitely one of the best reactions I have ever gotten from anyone I have bought a present for.

u/Capolan · 1 pointr/pics

amazon has em for 44 i think...

oops - 52 - my bad. I know you can get em for 46 out there if you look..

u/AlGeee · 1 pointr/knifeclub

That's a very broad question…

Any other info would help.

Do you want folding? Fixed blade?

An idea of your price range would also help us make suggestions.

Without any other information, the classic fighting knife is:

KA-BAR Full Size US Marine Corps Fighting Knife, Straight

Another option (I personally recommend)

Glock KB17281 81 Field Knife

u/SchmidtytheKid · 1 pointr/knives
u/nextus_music · 1 pointr/knives

they are mostly the most expensive part of the knife. and no I have never really heard of replaceable blades.if you are looking for a similar knife that will last you a life time and will go up against all you give it, see the [ka-bar] ( its only $50 and you will have it the rest of your life if you take care of it (oil it and sharpen it on a regular basis)

u/uriman · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

That knife is probably for decorative purposes only and would break chopping a steak. Real fighting knives are made by KA-BAR

u/Levelbeveled · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Do you have to pay import taxes or anything? I can go grab you a new KaBar at the damn knife store here and ship it to you. I'm happy to help any way I can.

Edit: Amazon has them new for $65.09 with free shipping (to me) with Prime. I can then ship it to you. Should come in under your budget. Let me know if you're interested.

KA-BAR Full Size US Marine Corps Fighting Knife, Straight

u/Graadash · 1 pointr/politics

Oh yeah? this is a cooking utensil? KA-BAR shouldn't be held liable if somebody buys this off of Amazon, without a background check no less, and kills somebody but Colt should be held liable when somebody buys an AR-15 and kills someone?

u/xasper8 · 1 pointr/Survival

I'm glad to share my experiences.

Oh one last thing. I pretty confident that KA-BAR is the real deal and not fake.

I started looking at the "bad" reviews a little closer. Look at this:

Scrolll to the second "bad" review of that KA-BAR, by "Brandon" - his complaint is that the knife was not sharp...His friend experienced the same thing and they called KA-BAR and got a new knife.

If it was a fake, I don't think KA-BAR would send back a new knife.

Or if it was fake and KA-BAR still replaced knife just because they are awesome...

Either way you win.

By the way, I have had no problems with the sharpness of my knife.

u/techchop · 1 pointr/Survival

It's hard to beat a KA-BAR. Trusted by Marines since 1942!

u/Handeatingcat · 1 pointr/knives

The standard Full-size straight edged. Don't want it to cut paper it's just quite dull out of the box.

u/shoangore · 1 pointr/preppers

While lots of people recommend the Becker BK2, I personally am enamored with my Becker BK3 On top of being a knife, you can use it as a pry bar, hammer in windows, (or nails), club things, and generally wreak havoc. You can also use it as a bottle opener, but be careful- I used it last week and actually broke the bottle's neck as well. Whoops.

This thing comes with a thick edge, you can grind it but it'll chop through wood pretty easily. You can get custom scales if the grip is too slick for you, or file away at the stock scales, which lots of people do.

That said, I still have my Esee 4/Izula and Mora knives literally ON me when I go hiking. The BK3 stays in the car as my BOB/GHB due to its weight.

u/LowFatMuffin · 1 pointr/knives

You can hammer with any part of this and not worry about damage, it's a beast.

u/cmdshftn · 1 pointr/Cyberpunk

Yeah: Ka-Bar Becker BK3 Tac Tool Fixed Blade Knife

Says 2 left in stock right now. I wanted something which looked the least likely to actually be useful for killing people or animals, or else I'd have bought a standard KA-Bar.

u/Avuja · 1 pointr/battlefield3

This has been on my Wishlist for a while now.. whew looks like it went up in cost, all these damn BF3 players driving up demand!

u/Mike_wave · 1 pointr/knives

For that budget the Ka-Bar does seem like a good choice. If you don't mind going 5 bucks over budget, I would consider this too though.

u/LaGrrrande · 1 pointr/SavedYourLife

I can't recommend a Becker Combat/Utility 7 enough.

u/-ThorsStone- · 1 pointr/knifeclub

You can look at any of the Beckers, the sheaths can all be mounted to Molle webbing, the bk7 isn't bad

u/HandBanana22 · 1 pointr/Survival

Thirstyone has the cons of that blade covered, I think. So heres some other options.

You could go with a BK2 or a BK7 over this. The BK9 is an option but it's on the large side.

Straying away from Ka-bar You could go with an ESEE Izula.

u/Artyom33 · 1 pointr/Survival

Maybe there's a reason, but why carry a heavy "axe" (hatchet?) when you can carry a knife like a BK-7 and a folding saw and have most if not all of the functionality of a hatchet with the two?

u/Tude · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Something like this?

u/almostamico · 1 pointr/Survival

IDK if some one has recommended it yet OP, but I hugely recommend getting a Becker by Ka-Bar! I love it cause it’s a tough-ass, fixed-blade knife. 5.25” blade and 10.5” overall = strong enough for prying even. There are like 3 or 4 types of blades you can buy on them... so do a little searching off the link I post below.

Edit: for a few more dollars, you can get their 7” blade. This is the one I almost went with but I didn’t quite want that large of a blade.

Edit #2: I totally forgot to mention my foldable...
My nearly 4” blade, CRKT!
EVERY CRKT I’ve owned (4 or 5) has came out of the box with the sharpest blades I’ve ever purchased, by far. For the price, you can’t go wrong. They have a cheaper on that I owned previously: the CRKT M16. Just don’t use these guys to pry anything. Lol

u/Keolo_The_Bold · 1 pointr/knives

For around, or under $100, I’d suggest the RAT 7, or the Bk 7.

u/Nooblton_ · 1 pointr/airsoft

Would this be a good battery? I'll be sure to pick up a couple extra mags just to be safe, and those rail covers. Thank you for the info!

u/inthedanjazone · 1 pointr/airsoft

The charger and battery can be found on amazon for much cheaper and together they add up to about $34 so he would only need a dollar more of something to get free shipping if he doesn't have prime.

Charger shipped from Amazon

Battery from Battery Superstore

Battery superstore is very reliable for batteries if the battery doesn't work for any reason they will replace it.

The savings from this will bring the price under budget

u/dionafranklin · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/ThinBlue2294 · 1 pointr/airsoft

Would something like this be what you're recommending?

u/leadercomrade · 1 pointr/airsoft

Given you're not going LiPo for battery (perfectly understandable), here are cheaper options for your power needs:
A combo pack, or
just the battery.

u/DawnLun · 1 pointr/airsoft

ICS Transform4 with 10 FREE mid caps $324 This also comes with a free $65 dollar gift. Which you can choose to get a chestrig you like. I would suggest the condor MOPC but it's a few dollars too high lol.
If you want to spend less on a gun and more on gear, theres also this G&P M4 CQBR

9.6v Nimh Battery + Charger Just wear black cargos instead of wasting money on black bdus

u/M3RKLEE · 1 pointr/airsoft

I bought these two together like 2-3 days ago so I don't think it is a weak battery. Tenergy Universal Smart Charger for RC/ Airsoft Battery/ NiMH/NiCd Battery Packs (6V - 12V)

u/Sambuscus0 · 1 pointr/airsoft

This should work. It's prime, too. Have you fielded the gun yet? I'm curious as to how it performs, I've heard mixed things.

u/n1023 · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/InevitablyChloe · 1 pointr/airsoft

Personally, I would recommend saving a bit for one of these. You get a tougher receiver which, if you take care of it, will never have to replace. CYMA's proline AKs are the toughest that I've handled, and they will last.

Your first battery choice should be a NiMh, because they accommodate new players well. I suggest starting with this. Intellect cells haven't failed me yet.

I've heard that Tenergy has decent ones, but there are some consistency issues with my experience. They burnt out a £70 frankentorque motor that I installed for a customer (granted, it didn't have a MOSFET, my mistake), but the battery somehow clocked into a bunch of voltometers at around 11.3 volts. Quite unusual, considering that it should have been 9.6. I am sure that I just got a really crappy battery. (I know it was the battery, because it worked okay on my other NiMhs until I tossed that one on)

When using a NiMh, that Tenergy smart charger works fine.

If you plan on running any kind of LiPo, ESPECIALLY 11.1v and up, install a MOSFET. Even if you get a gun which already has a MOSFET, replace it. No stock gun has a good MOSFET that will protect your trigger contacts as good as this one.

Your current choices are good if you are stuck on that budget and need to play now, but if you can hold out for a little more, then definitely spend the extra money to get the best. Good luck!

u/ClumsyLeprechaun · 1 pointr/airsoft

I'm planning on purchasing my starter loudout today! Here's what I'm getting!

Gun: ICS G33

Eyepro: Save Phace Grunt Series

Facepro: Matrix Iron Face

Battery: Tenergy 9.6V 1600mAh Butterfly Mini NiMH

Charger: Tenergy Universal Smart Charger

Using the FREESHIP coupon code on Evike and the free shipping on Amazon get's the price to $288.98

If anyone has any advice feel free to comment!

Edit: Just ordered everything!

u/PenguinEntity · 1 pointr/Nerf

Barricade with stock motors, worker flywheels, 18awg wire, an xt60 connector, and this battery -> (obviously I replaced the connector with an xt60). The $40 doesn't have to include the battery, that would be nice but chances are I wouldn't be using them both at the same time anyway

u/AudioHazard · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/blzd4dyz · 1 pointr/knives

The Condor Bushlore is an inexpensive option, and weighs about 12.3oz. If you're planning on batoning wood with your knife, you'll want it thick enough to withstand the force, and long enough to be able to hit the tip-side of the spine poking out from the other side of the log. Since your budget is a lot higher than that, you might want to shop around for something higher-quality.

Check out the Blind Horse Bushcrafter or Woodsman. Not sure what they weigh, but I'd be happy to lug around the extra weight of one of those beauties.

EDIT: Also note that O1 tool steel rusts very easily. Be prepared to maintain those blades quite a bit. It's very tough, though, and decently easy to sharpen. I read somewhere that, when polled, most knifemakers would choose O1 for their personal blades. It's the same steel as in the Ray Mears Woodlore knife.

u/patrickeg · 1 pointr/WildernessBackpacking

I'll remember that for next time. I've already packed it all away, but I might drag it out and take some pics. My foot is pretty banged up so it'll be a minute. But Ill give you a short list :)

Pack: Osprey Exos 58

Sleeping Bag: Teton Sports Tracker

Tent: ALPS Mountaineering Lynx 1

Tarp: Ultimate Survival Hex tarp

Mess kit: Mess kit and Mug

Water Filtration: Sawyer Mini

Tools/Defense: Note: Normally I would only take one knife, but I wasn't sure which I would prefer as they're two quite different blades. Ka-Bar Becker BK2, Condor Bushlore, and Bear Spray

Stove: MSR PocketRocket

First Aid: I had the Adventure Medical Kits Day Tripper, and then added to that with Celox and an Israeli Bandage

Trekking Poles: Cascade Mountain Tech CF with Cork Grips

In addition I had a few little things in a small kit; Ferro rod, duct tape, trail blazes, chemical water purifiers in case my Sawyer failed, bug spray, a small thing of sunscreen (which I didn't end up needing as it was overcast), deodorant, TP, etc.

u/shroom_throwaway9722 · 1 pointr/CampingGear

The Condor Bushlore is a great inexpensive knife. Carbon steel, full tang, etc. The old ones were not that great but there have been many improvements so the new ones are a fantastic value. You can baton firewood with it all day long. Get a knife pro to put a Scandi grind on it and you'll be set for a long time.

Secondly, get a set of Japanese water stones and learn how to use them.

Even the most expensive unobtanium-carbon quantum hattori hanzo japanese nanosteel knife can be ruined by improper maintenance (e.g. pull-through carbide blade destroyers).

Start with 1000 grit. You can also get 800 grit for fixing chips and other damage. The K-80 is a good starter set. If you want to sharpen your kitchen knives 'shaving sharp' then pick up an additional 4000/6000 grit stone for fine polishing.

Search /r/bushcraft for further knife and sharpening advice.

u/BackdoorAlex2 · 1 pointr/Survival

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned. I recommend the Condor Bushlore

u/stealthybadger · 1 pointr/knives

I was in a similar spot recently, I went for a Condor Bushlore, though it's on the shorter end, though it all depends on what you're looking for. The Becker Bk-14 is another option, and a cheaper alternative to the Izula-II



u/CaptainTheGabe · 1 pointr/Survival

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

u/JimmyBiscuit · 1 pointr/EDC

If you want a fixed knife beware of this:

  1. Below 12cm

  2. No Tanto style blade

    If you mean by Condor Bushknife something like this:

    This is be legal to carry and own and won't be taken from you without special circumstances.Strictly speaking, the knife OP uses is also legal but some features are in a gray zone.
u/Therightmike · 1 pointr/knifeclub

My fav low cost camp knife Condor Bushlore. The knife is awesome and the leather sheath rivals knives that cost 3x the money.

u/GabberMate · 1 pointr/camping

I have a Mora and a Condor Bushlore. The Mora is a light, fixed knife for general use, though the blade isn't very thick. The flat grind (scandi?) is very easy to sharpen, and you can get it in stainless or carbon steel. The Bushlore is for funsies. I like throwing it, and it was very cheap for such a robust, high carbon knife. Heavy as all get-out, though.

Edit: Link to Amazon for Bushlore, since Mora was already linked.

u/TThrowawayaccount56 · 1 pointr/Bushcraft
Love this knife, great craftsmanship and just feels nice. Totally worth the 55$. Just keep the blade clean and wipe off any debris (it's best to oil it).

u/PrettyFuckingChalant · 1 pointr/woodworking

I keep a Kershaw Chill in my drawer at work. Aside from the occasional run across a stone have given it zero love. It's a screwdriver, scraper, box knife, bottle opener, chisel, and occasional sliver digger. It's held up surprisingly well.

u/mithikx · 1 pointr/EDC

I used a Kershaw Chill for a few years, I found it to be a nice small-ish knife and the clip can be removed with the proper screw bit.

u/BellatorCordis · 1 pointr/knives

Check out the Kershaw Chill and the CRKT Lake. They're both under $20, and while they have pocket clips, they're easily removable with the right screwdriver.

u/SnowblindAlbino · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I've carried a Kershaw Chill for a while now. It's just about perfect for an EDC knife, fits nicely clipped into my pocket, and at $20 I'm not worried about losing it.

I have several of my grandfather's knives, mostly Case and Old Timer penknives from the 1960s. I like to look at them now and then, but I could never carry them for fear of losing them.

u/Pseudolntellectual · 1 pointr/knives

Previously mentioned Kershaw Skyline is a good one, but another one I like is Kershaw Chill. Cheaper steel, but I prefer the look.

Kershaw in general is pretty good for cheap folders.

u/middlefingur · 1 pointr/kershaw

This one's amazing for a smaller and super light every day carry for $21:

And this one's a little beefier with u.s. made steel:

I have one of each and don't leave home without one of them.

edit: I carried a big one like yours for a while and then carried the Chill for a week and thought to myself "What the fuck was I thinking lugging that other thing around?"

The above knives are more than sharp enough for anything you're going to through at it unless you're into destroying knives :)

u/SnakeOilEmperor · 1 pointr/EDC

These knives are a Buck Whittaker 437T Revolution at the top, and a Kershaw Chill. Recently I have expanded my collection of Kershaw knives. I have the Brawler and the [Lifter] ( as well. I think they are a great value for the comparatively low price point. They come very sharp, don't have frills, and they just work.

A couple months ago I hit gold in my search to reacquire a knife I lost as a kid. My Buck Whittaker 437T fetish was finally acted upon, and I found two on Ebay. Well, I was searching for something else, and I found another one! This one is black. So, now I have three - blue, black, and green. My search for more is always ongoing, but I'm not seeking them out any longer. All three of them have been disassembled, oiled, cleaned, and sharpened. They are in tip top working order.

[My collection of Buck Revolutions] (,
[Kershaw Chill with a lighter for scale] (

Thanks for looking.

u/pokerd · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! It's a TekMat - though I got mine on Amazon for the free shipping. I'm probably going to get the AR-15 one next so I can fit my mouse on there as well.

And nice choice with the XD9SC :D I'm a big fan of the Springfield lineup, and am now considering either an XD-S or 1911 of some variety for my next purchase. That probably won't be for awhile though with my mech KB habit.

u/xblackdog · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

the one in the second link is a Tekmat for cleaning weapons, but it's made of the same stuff mousepads are.

u/krakissi · 1 pointr/MouseReview

A lot of people who are really into big mouse pads will get these AR-15 Cleaning Mats. It's longer than 28 inches, but you could cut it shorter. Why the length constraint, just desk space?

u/SovereignAxe · 1 pointr/guns
u/DiabeetusMan · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The first one. Cheap-ish, big, looks neat


u/Fjiord · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I would like to know how different is this mouse mat compared to a gun mat. Have been wanting to get a huge mouse mat for a while.

u/FreddyFuego · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Look into TekMat, they make cleaning mats for guns but the material they use is the same as all the HQ mouse pads around for a much cheaper price. I use this one and love it, plenty of room and never slides around on my desk.

u/Red_1977 · 1 pointr/canadaguns

A friend got it for me.

I found an AR 15 one after a quick google search on

I'm sure they have the gun you want there somewhere

u/tally_in_da_houise · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards


12" x 36" size

u/someomega · 1 pointr/ar15

Yep. You can get them without the riser for $40 when they are on sale. You can then get a UTG Med-pro Compact Riser Mount (0.83" High) for $10 bucks and have a co-witnessed sight.

u/wallawalla22 · 1 pointr/gundeals

You and I both know that this isn't the only thing stopping me from doing this.

But- I look into it. Looking at risers I found these two.

Best bet to wait for the sight to come in and measure? or is there a standard size for these?

u/RallyMech · 1 pointr/ar15

Check out /r/gunsforsale and /r/gundeals (May your wallet rest in peace). Here's a Bushnell TRS-25 red dot for $49 You will need this riser. Buy that before buying BUIS.

That rifle may or may not be worth $500. MI uppers are usually decent.

For .223/5.56 $0.30 per round is generally a good price for brass case ammo. Walmart and some other stores sell steel case for as low as $0.20/round, quality varies. The best cheap ammo is Wolf Gold, purchased in bulk online. Use to find it.

Keep an eye on Palmetto State Armory's website. They include PMAGs with tons of deals, effectively using them as packing peanuts. Use a prepaid credit card or for buying from PSA due to ongoing, infrequent, credit card theft.

u/greekplaya990 · 1 pointr/68SPC

You might not want that gas block in the front that could block the view of a scope you want to put on it. That said You can get one of the [bushnell red dots on amazon sale] ( and This riser and then you can have a red dot co witness for hunting which would be sweet.

u/77ticktock · 1 pointr/gundeals

Try this for absolute cowitness... one reviewer indicated cowitness with magpul BUIS

Don't quote me but I believe the 1" high riser would give you a lower third cowitness

u/starlordturdblossom · 1 pointr/Gunsforsale

Thanks for reminding me about the riser. It didn't come with one, but I have one of these that I bought to go with it: UTG Med-pro Compact Riser Mount, 0.83" High, 3 Slots

I'll throw it in. PM me.

u/brent1987 · 1 pointr/ar15

Make sure to order a riser for the Bushnell sight so that it cowitnesses with your front sight. Most people that order from amazon recommend this one, but any riser that is approximately that height (0.83 inches) should work.

u/Desay · 1 pointr/gundeals

Looks like it isn't. It's $70. I'll keep my eyes open for deals though it looks like they come up every month or so. One more question, someone in that thread recommended this riser, do I need one to be able to use it if I already have a top rail?

u/abaine93 · 1 pointr/guns


It's actually a cheap airsoft sight:
With a utg medium profile riser:

Less than 100 dollars all together and the riser puts it at a very comfortable height for an AR style rifle. I normally wouldn't have bothered with anything made for airsoft on my real guns but it has taken a serious amount of abuse and still works great. I figured it would handle the .22 recoil just fine and it did.

u/64ink · 1 pointr/gundeals

I have only had time to take mine out shooting once and it held up just fine. The one I linked to on amazon has 4.5 star average over 752 reviews so it looks like hardly anyone else is having trouble with it either.

For absolute cowitness you would want the medium height here--

For 1/3 cowitness you would want the one I linked earlier--

u/bnolsen · 1 pointr/gundeals

The .83" riser will get cowitness with many BUS. This is the one you want:
I have this riser with this dot (total steal for 16usd after rebate) and I think these sights (sold under TONS of different names):

u/Two-Thumbs · 1 pointr/1022

Agreed. I've got a half dozen TRS-25 and they are excellent. You can sometimes pick them up for $50. On an AR, you'll want the high rise mount, but that's a 1/3rd cowitness and a better alternative is to get one from UTG for $10 and use that with the regular TRS-25:

For the 10/22, you don't need the elevated mount. The TRS-25 is perfect on the 10/22.

u/throwawaySpikesHelp · 1 pointr/ar15
u/a__hol · 1 pointr/airsoft

I recommend getting the mid level riser so you can cowitness with iron sights. Believe it should be 0.83”. This one would work.

u/tausciam · 1 pointr/ar15

I got this for cowitness on a Fieldsport red dot. So yes...probably 3/4

u/codename_pig · 1 pointr/airsoft

A pre-installed mosfet/etu is the best you're gonna get for trigger response at a lower price. All the aftermarket drop-in mosfet/etu system are quite expensive relative to the price of that g&g r8-l.


I'm guessing the battery that it comes with is the 9.6v nimh? a 7.4v lipo will be far better for trigger response (at least as far as you can get with a small budget). Lipo batteries can be had for ~$10 each on hobbyking, and a basic smart charger will only cost you between $15-30, depending on what features you want.


The "scope" that it comes with is just a cheap red dot sight. You can find plenty of affordable and reliable red dot sights on Amazon or ali-express (example).


The bundle might be convenient, but it's definitely not the best route you should take.

u/DaXLR · 1 pointr/Nerf

Problem with looking up ''are Lipo safe'' online, you'll get dozens of horror stories, but of course, no mention of the tens of thousands of times LiPos were completely fine.

You can get balance chargers for pretty damn cheap. I've used this one for my airsoft LiPos for years without any issues. However investing in a higher quality universal one might benefit you in the long run, especially if you're scared of LiPos. (You shouldn't be. Careful, yes. Scared, no).

Lipo bags are overpriced and useless. Lots of people here say to charge it in an ammo can, it works, but even simpler is in a stainless steel pot with the lid propped open. Unless you make them fail, LiPos don't ''explode''; they catch fire more or less violently depending on the fault. All you need is something that's not flammable and non-airtight to charge it in.

As for taking care of them. Don't run them too hot, don't puncture or bend them and most important; never short a LiPo battery. That's it. I'd add don't overcharge, but if you're using a LiPo charger, that shouldn't happen anyway.

Also, the whole thing about balance charging; normal battery cells can be charged 'through' eachother, meaning that you can charge them all at once to the nominal voltage (say, a 9.6V NiMh battery) and they're going to be fine. Lithium cells needs to be charged independently to their nominal voltage (3.7V for LiPo cells) to make sure one cell is not overcharged and develops a fault, that's what 'balance-charging' means.
That's why LiPos batteries have a small, extra connector. This connector let's you monitor the voltage in each cell and that's what balance chargers use. The only thing you need to worry about is to make sure the charger you pick has the proper way of interfacing with the batteries you buy. If you buy a 2 cell (7.4V) or 3 cell (11.1V) just make sure to pick a charger that can balance that number of cells and has the proper connector (It's usually pretty obvious in the description). Unless it's a single cell, you will always have different ports for charging and discharging LiPos.

u/ChowMain711 · 1 pointr/airsoft
This is the charger I use, I highly recommend it.

u/JinXzyz · 1 pointr/airsoft

Will this charger and this battery work for the specna arms edge?

u/Nocturnaloner · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/ABoiFromSaturn · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/dumptruck88 · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/Celtics4theWIN · 1 pointr/airsoft

I am also considering LiPos, would this be good or is the IMAX the best option

u/Samalam268211 · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

This is the charger I'm planning on getting.

I have zip ties, wire, soldering irons, heat shrink and everything else.

u/mikochu · 1 pointr/airsoft

Check out the Krytac forum for technical discussions on Krytac products.

I've got my FDE Krytac LVOA-C on the way, but I did order two batteries from Hobby King:

2000mah 2S 15~25C LiPo (7.4V)

2000mah 3S 15~25C LiPo (11.1v)

Researching on the Krytac forum, if you have a US-market Krytac AEG, you should be fine using a 11.1v. However, if you are in Europe, you may have better results with the 7.4v. My friend received his US-market LVOA-C last week and the 11.1v worked great.

I'd also recommend this Tenergy charger:
I've got a more involved LiPo fast charger, but the Tenergy is a simple balance charger that'll do the job just fine. Also, don't forget to get a Kevlar lipo bag for safety!

u/justsomeguy75 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The Companion is probably their best seller. They have a Heavy Duty version with a heavier blade, and they have many different knives if you want something different. They are all very similar though, with the only real difference being carbon steel or stainless. They're all well made and worth your money.

u/ScriptThat · 1 pointr/Survival

The cheapest one you can find on Amazon. Actually, just buy two.

Throw one in your trunk and forget about it until you need a knife one day.
Throw the other in your toolbox and use it for random jobs.

After a few months of using it you'll realize it's a great little thing and get another to take camping.

I like this one because it's ~$8.50 and your fingers won't slip onto the blade under any circumstances. It's a little on the small side if you have big hands though.

For camping I like this one.

u/BadHumanGoodGnome · 1 pointr/Survival

Here's the knife plus a couple of bucks, buy a few gallons of water and hope for good weather.

u/Coffeeshopman · 1 pointr/Hamilton

The best knives and best prices for knives is on the internet.

u/brazilliandanny · 1 pointr/knives

It's a great knife for under $30. Strong blade, amazing grip on the handle.

Honestly Im not crazy about the fire starter as I keep plenty in my camping kit, so this will be redundant. But they didn't any Mora's available without it so I bought one anyway.

If you are looking for the fire starter/knife combo than it's great. other wise just get the basic Mora for half the price.

u/TRTBrandonSchaub · 1 pointr/Bowyer

It's really important that you get a tool that's right for you. As you notice, I don't recommend planes, the other guy did.

I have reasons but they are mostly my own. For eexample I wouldn't recommend planes because they will only work when working on straight grain. The moment you encounter a knot, you'll be struggling. And on top of it, planes are expensive and only the expensive ones are worth getting. A cheap drawknife or rasp works fine but a cheap plane is gonna make you cry.

Now, you were saying you don't wanna file for 10 hours. I think you're a little bit mistaken about rasps. You will probably be surprised how quick a good, coarse rasp is. They can devour wood. The reason why you need a rasp is because there will be spots in wood where the grain is running off. A cutting tool will struggle to cut when grain runs off but a rasp will still work.

Alright, I recommend the following. Get yourself a rasp. I have no particular recommendation. Check out ebay and see if you can get one there. If not, get one from harbor freight. Look for a big one. Possibly these 4-in-1s.

Then, get a Morakniv knife. The company is famous for making high quality bushcrafting knives. These knives are absolutely amazing for working on wood.

And a knife is better than a plane or drawknife if you don't have a workbench. Just place the wood against the ground and your foot and use the knife.

On Amazon for $14, the companion.

It's one of their cheapest and great. They come with a scandi grind. It's the best grind for woodworking and easiest to resharpen.

u/gandothesly · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

I own each of these. The Mora Bushcraft Triflex is what I carry in the field. The others are still fantastic.

Morakniv Companion

Morakniv Craftline HighQ

Mora Bushcraft Triflex (seems out of stock at Amazon)

u/lectures · 1 pointr/CampingGear

I like carbon steel blades, but I also like sharpening knives....

u/SlickSlims · 1 pointr/tea
u/Dont_Call_it_Dirt · 1 pointr/knifeclub
u/psophis · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

With that one you are paying a large premium for the sheath. This has a thinner blade 2.5mm vs 3.2mm, but is arguably not as tough.

u/jlbraun · 1 pointr/Survival

Mora. The end.

Survival knives are meant to be used, not babied.

u/kimste2 · 1 pointr/Survival

Not full tang but what I recommend: here

Full tang recommendation: here

u/thelastboyscout007 · 1 pointr/Survival

like u/kimste2 said for the money you really can't go wrong with a Mora. If you insist on a full tang I also have a couple of the Survivor HK-106 knives and have been very impressed considering the price, they also come with a fire starter.


Mora - Light My Fire

Survivor HK-106

u/tjreicks · 1 pointr/CampingGear

morakniv is the way to go

Edit: they have other variations, but all of their knives are excellent for price points

u/movdev · 1 pointr/preppers

well im not an expert in any of those categories. but ive been doing a lot of heavy research into bushcrafting (ie watching all the top dogs on youtube and studyign their gear) and ill tell you knives are ultra important. the one you have listed is seen as a joke though it is a good one but without the serrated edge. you should add the mora $10 knife thats on amazon right now.

u/ColonelBunkyMustard · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Get a pair of Mora Companions for $14 each and if you find out that you want something more then you can look for something more focused for your type of outdoors use. Most "survival" knives are lumped together in one category that makes it difficult to distinguish what their type design is for. KaBar Becker BK2 is basically a sharpened pry-bar. The thing is practically bomb-proof but its thick blade and obtuse grind means that it won't be very easy to cut with. Esee knives are also tough, and feature more functional grinds and and a great warranty, but 1095 steel they use is still going to be inferior in edge retention and edge stability to premium CPM-3v or Vanadis 4-Extra that you see on stuff like a GSO-4.7 or the ZT-0180. Then you have knives like Falknivens that use high-end stainless laminated steels which are price because the process for laminating is expensive and complicated and provides a stainless blade with some of the impact absorption that normally is attributed to carbon blades while still maintaining a harder edge. The reason I suggest a Mora is that for someone new to the fixed blade game, it's an option that won't break the bank and is also probably the highest value for the price of any fixed blade available. It's the Timex of knives. Not fancy but it works and is easy to replace if you lose or break(which is still pretty unlikely) it.

u/tylerthehun · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

If you're looking for a plain and simple, fixed-blade knife, get a Mora. They're cheap as shit, razor sharp, and hold up damn well. Just keep them clean and oiled or they tend to rust.

If you're looking for a multi-tool type knife, go with Leatherman. They're more expensive, and the model I have is discontinued so I can't give you a recommendation, but they've got a version for everyone.

And listen to everyone telling you not to use a knife for self defense. The best tools for self defense are open eyes and fast feet. If you feel like you need something else, there are much better options than a knife.

u/supertofu · 1 pointr/knives

A Mora Companion MG Carbon Steel has everything you want except for the rubber handle.

u/Ipats · 1 pointr/CampingGear

So I am going to get a Mora blade, it is between these three, that are all close to each other!

At this point the $5 differences aren't an issue, what would be my best bet of those three?

u/JayL1F3 · 1 pointr/knives

The Morakniv Companion seems like a good starting point. Pretty cheap where I'm at ordering from Amazon.

Granted, I have a couple Gerbers. Mostly paraframe folders, and for the price, you're better off with a Chinese Kershaw, like the Oso Sweet

u/cr0wmium · 1 pointr/knives

I have a Kellam, Helle is going to be my next puuko addition.

Pretty knife! I've found myself admiring my Kellam more often than using it.

Just as a tip, this knife has lasted me amazingly in the outdoors (I mainly do a lot of fishing and camping) and complements my wood-handled Kellam rather nicely for wet environments! Anyways, great gift.

u/Recycle0rdie · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

First of all this is the item i think you will purchase with this order -

Now for my list.... prepare to get wood ;)

  1. - Marble Wood, occasionally known as Cake Wood.

  2. - Osage Orange wood, orange like simon's hair.

  3. - Book, what wood is that?

  4. - Swedish made Mora knife. would cut through a steak as if it were water

  5. - Camelthorn wood, named after an animal.

  6. - Cocobolo wood, has streaks of purple when freshly sanded.

  7. - Pocoyo Racing, a game I've wanted to buy my son for a long time.

  8. - Masturbating to my most favorite wood species should be considered a guilty pleasure.

  9. - A tool, this was easy

  10. - From my childhood, Nike high tops.

  11. - Carving set with organized display case.

  12. - Carving knife set, for my hobby

  13. - Kiridashi Kogatana blade, nerdy.... because ninjas.

  14. - Ancient Bog Oak wood, naturally black from being in a swamp for 1000+ years

  15. - Spalted Tamarind wood, sometimes known to contain streaks of pale green.

  16. - Nike skate shoes, something you wear.

  17. - Macassar Ebony wood, funny because it smells like B.O when you cut it.

  18. - Hackberry wood, comes from a flowering tree. Without bees it could not reproduce.

  19. - Book about trees and shrubs, could potentially be used to select ornamental species for a garden.

  20. - Deluxe woodcarving and palm tool set by Flexcut, My most favorite Item.

    Thank you so much for the contest, I had alot of fun putting this together. Happy Happy cake day /u/ask_seek_knock! and good luck to everyone!

u/FourNominalCents · 1 pointr/AskMen

A knife is very useful. I'm someone who has to strip wires more than most, so I get that extra utility from the two-sized serrations at the base of one of these

I would carry one all the time if I could stop losing them. Even with the $10 gerber paraframes from walmart, a knife vanishing every few months starts to add up.

I've never gotten in any legal trouble for it.

I live in CO, USA.

u/nreyes238 · 1 pointr/knives

Spyderco byrd Cara Cara2 Black FRN ComboEdge Knife

I like that one.

You might like this one better:

Kershaw 1605CKTST Clash Folding Knife with SpeedSafe (2-Step Serration)

They both have ok steel. You generally need to spend more if you want nicer steel.

u/Vontech615 · 1 pointr/networking

It's just a Kershaw SpeedSafe. It's been a great knife.

u/SatansHotDog · 1 pointr/ShittyLifeProTips

This is my go to and easier to carry around everywhere - Amazon: Kershaw Clash Black Serrated Knife

u/DrWhoisOverRated · 1 pointr/AskMen

I carry a knife similar to this one. It's there for opening boxes, cutting zip ties, and other various cutting related tasks. I guess it could be used for self defense, but honestly that is the farthest thing from my mind on a day to day basis.

The only trouble I've ever got in from carrying it was when a bouncer at a bar saw it clipped in my pocket and told me I had to leave it with him while I was there.

u/K3R3G3 · 1 pointr/Silverbugs

It's a great feeling getting PMs in the mail. What kind of knife is that? I finally just caved after my cheap one broke several months ago and grabbed this one. It came in the mail yesterday and is an excellent value -- highly reocmmended.

u/OC4815162342 · 1 pointr/EDC

I typically stick to benchmade but theyre normally $150+. gerber is a good brand, but if your state allows assisted opening you should go for a Kershaw. I carry a Clash and use it almost every day. Its got a flipper with a torsion bar assist, so be careful of state laws. Its a little heavy, but I like that, feels more solid to me. Excellent knife for the price. my other, more expensive knives that I rotate (or will be, in a few days when some of them get delivered) are the Benchmade Griptilian, the Benchmade North Fork and the Benchmade Barrage(assisted opener).

If you're looking for a cheap, rough work knife, get the Kershaw, but if you're looking for an investment and a really high end, go for a BM.

u/KevinLaro · 1 pointr/knives

I had in mind this Kershaw 1605CKTST since I recently got myself a similar kershaw and I am very pleased with it.

So I kept shopping around and Buck seems decent but the blade is small at 2 1/2 inches. But that seems like it would perfect for my dad appart from the blade lenght.

Is a good place to buy. I Found a Gerber Tanto style that seems to be perfect. Opinions ?

u/lotrouble · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

First and foremost, thank you for the contest. It was fun!

u/RaZ-RemiiX · 1 pointr/EDC

This is what I've been using for the past few months and I've got no complaints.
Kershaw 1990 Brawler Speedsafe Folding Knife

u/nohotpocketforu · 1 pointr/knives
u/Nigel_Vertigo · 1 pointr/EDC
u/firewerx · 1 pointr/knives

I have smaller hands and recently picked up a Kershaw Brawler as my first EDC knife. Small enough to be barely noticeable in my pocket, but still very solid construction. Really happy with it.

u/wafflesareforever · 1 pointr/gifs

I started carrying a pocket knife (just a $25 Kershaw, nothing fancy) a couple of years ago. It's unbelievably handy in so many situations. I feel naked without it now. I'd feel a lot better about encountering a mountain lion with my knife in hand than I would without.

u/ILiketurtles666 · 1 pointr/EDC
u/TechnoGarrett · 1 pointr/EDC
u/Thumper_8 · 1 pointr/knives

In CSGO it’s called a huntsman knife but you can find one on amazon here:

u/xXEnd3rGamerXx · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive
u/TheMintness · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

I prefer the huntsman. I like it so much that I bought the real huntsman knife.

u/DynamicStatic · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

What is a rip off and what is a copy in this regard though? The huntsman knife is for example a real knife before it came to CS:

CoD one:!Combat_Knife_model_CoDG.png

u/BalancedEdge · 1 pointr/knives


Gut Knife

Flip Knife

Huntsman Knife

M9 Bayonet

Among these, I would recommend only the Benchmade Bedlam and M9 if you plan on actually using it. The butterfly knife I forget the real model of, but it's a custom $3000+ knife.

u/Metaldrake · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

is this the knife? Also sunset looks amazing on a white board.

Edit: Shadowbanned person on the post?

u/Inder81jeet · 1 pointr/camping

I searched a lot and finally got this m-tech knife, surprised by the quality and construction of the knife this will be my another companion for rest of my life.

u/Humansrhamsters · 1 pointr/EDC
u/EvolutionVII · 1 pointr/Austria

Kershaw Cryo MODEL 1555TI 49.90 EUR on

Kershaw Cryo MODEL 1555TI 22.30 USD/18.95 EUR on

available here at an austrian shop for 77,90 EUR

in this case it's a chinese made Kershaw, but kind of a standard go to knive in that price range.

For US made:

Kershaw Blur for 89,95 EUR at

Kershaw Blur for 44.95 USD/38.20 EUR at

u/Sparks_MD · 1 pointr/EDC

Sorry guys, I thought this comment would show up but it didn't so here's it again!

Info and such.

Picture one is my work (garrison, not deployed) EDC and picture two is my normal EDC.

  1. IPhone 5 with LifeProof case

  2. [Fisher Space Pen] ( (This is my third one, last two flew off.)

  3. Just a normal sharpie

  4. Two diffrent types of Rite in the Rain

  5. Gerber Flick Multi-tool and belt carrying case

  6. Southord Jackknife lock-pick set

  7. Kershaw Cryo knife

  8. CREE LED flashlight

  9. Keys with a TEC P-7, a tritium key FOB, and a 2 GB flash drive

  10. ID tags

  11. A very cheap Armitron sports watch

  12. Carmex

  13. A BIC lighter

  14. Standard ear Protection

  15. Standard tri-fold wallet (will upgrade soon)

  16. Oakley Flak Jacket (These were given to me)

  17. Standard issue gloves (do not buy these)

    So I do carry much more stuff with me while I'm working but I'm quick to shed it when I get back to the barracks.

    Hope you enjoyed and I'll be happy to answer any questions about my getup!