Best hunting & fishing books according to redditors
We found 397 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & fishing books. We ranked the 197 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 397 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & fishing books. We ranked the 197 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Yeah, I have a CCW and I'm an attorney and I'm licensed in Oregon. I'm absolutely floored that you're an attorney without understanding even the basics of self defense law.
The required non-aggressor element of self defense isn't even remotely related to the concept of actual-cause. Criminal law has no concept of "well, he did nothing wrong, wasn't the aggressor, but since he initiated the contact, but not conflict, he's responsible."
That's such an absurd thing to argue. Not one single jurisdiction has that rule.
Suggested holiday reading
The first thing you're going to need is a good reference on the reloading process in general. The ABCs of Reloading is a very nice one, and it'll walk you through the basic steps of reloading.
You're then going to need your equipment. The Lee Challenger Kit comes with 90% of the equipment you'll need. Add some dies, a brass length gauge to complement the cutter included in the challenger kit, some calipers to measure... everything and lastly a bullet puller for the inevitable mistakes.
That should do it for equipment. You'll also need a load data book to tell you which combination of bullet and powder you need. The one by Hornady has a specific section about 7.62x54r.
Before you pick out your loads you'll want to slug your barrel so you know how wide of a bullet to use. Depending on your model and the level of wear in the bore, it should slug somewhere around .310 for Russian/soviet stuff and around .308 for old Finns. Make sure you know what that magic number is! a .308 in a .310 or larger bore will result in terrible accuracy. The opposite will probably result in a catastrophic kaboom.
Do I still have you? Good! Lastly you'll need bullets, brass, powder and primers.
Brass comes first. you can not re-use the milsurp brass available on the market the cases are made of steel instead of brass and aren't compatible with a reloading press. Also, they're primed with berdan primers, which, for all intents and purposes, can not be removed. I suggest getting a few boxes of Privi-Partisan commercial ammo and shooting it, then saving the cases. You can buy just brass casings, but they're very difficult to find.
Bullets:
You're probably going to want to shoot full metal jacket bullets. Just use the ones listed in your load manual with the proper diameter and you should be fine.
Powder:
I use H4895 personally. Again, look in your loading manual and do not exceed the amounts listed there. Powders are not interchangeable.
Primers:
I use CCI's large rifle primers. I can't remember if primers are specified in the loading manual or not but if you use the right kind and the right power level (magnum vs non-magnum) you should be fine.
That about covers equipment. If you want a rundown of the basic procedure I can write that up later today.
Quality of practice is more important than quantity. If you're just making holes and noise for 150 rounds, then that's all you're going to get. Practicing specific drills against a shot timer, augmented with a structured dryfire routine, and logging your progress, will show dividends fast.
https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633/
I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.
I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.
Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.
What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:
Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool
There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.
This is my first reloading press, and it’s setup for 9mm.
Here’s what I bought:
And this is what I’m loading:
9mm Luger
I fired my first 25 round last Saturday. They were soft recoiling, and from my novice reloader’s perspective, indistinguishable from 115 Grain Federal Champion I was comparing them to. I didn’t notice any smoke, and I had zero issues with my M&P9mm FS. Right after I got home from the range I loaded 300 more.
All in all, I love the press and haven’t had any major issues with any of the equipment I purchased. The DVD that came with the press was excellent and made setup simple. The only issues I had came from using the large primer tube with small primers (inconsistent priming), using the rifle metering insert (gave me inconsistent powder throws), and static giving me sticky powder (grounding the press seems to have fixed that).
Taking it slow, looking at every step, and confirming that I am moving in the right direction has made this pretty easy and so far successful.
Edit: Here's my cost breakdown.
Edit2: The reason I felt comfortable going this route is I did my homework, and I check my powder, and over all length constantly (every time for my first 100 cartridges or so, and now about every 10th round). Going the progressive route first take tons of concentration, and you need to be in a zero distraction environment. You need to triple check everything, makes some rounds, and then check everything again. You have to be aware that if you mess up, you will hurt yourself and destroy expensive equipment.
I started /r/Reloading over a year ago to learn about reloading. I've read tons online, watched many video on the subject, and read a couple of books. Before you start reloading, make sure you know exactly what you are doing and make sure you are doing every step correctly.
Grab yourself a copy of the ABC's of Reloading (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440213968/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a reloading manual. I like my Lyman 50th (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HH08L1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Looking at two pages in Lyman shows that .308 needs large rifle primers while .223 needs small rifle primers.
I really can't recommend the ABCs book enough. The author lost his hands in an accident, so he's committed to safety, haha. Reading through that will, at the very least, let you know what you don't know.
/r/reloading is going to be your go to source for specific questions. Like you I've wanted to get into reloading, and before I make any purchases I will finish reading this:
http://amzn.com/1440213968
Buy the ABCs of Reloading, you won't be sorry.
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395151635&sr=8-1&keywords=abcs+of+reloading
> I mean I'm in a Castle Doctrine state so someone on your property fucking up your shit is legal to shoot.
That's not any existing US Castle Doctrine I'm aware of. We have two, one is just a "no duty to retreat from your dwelling" which I refer to as the weak form, and a strong one which allows you to assume a home invader is a lethal threat without first proving it, since there's no safe way to do that.
Separate from that, Texas is the only state to have not (yet) judicially or otherwise nullified a right to use lethal force in defense of property. As I recall, if someone is, say, carrying away your stereo system, you can use lethal force after they ignore a verbal warning.
Be warned, you need to know the case law as well as statutory law, many "good" self-defense laws have been nullified by judges, like my state's strong Castle Doctrine, and Oklahoma's on defense of property. The best resource I know for that is Self Defense Laws of All 50 States, but it's getting pretty stale now 4 years after publication.
As for riots, they have an old saying about the Texas Ranger Division, "One riot, one Ranger".
/am I missing a step
Yes. You are missing the step of buying the ABC's of reloading and reading it twice.
Making wild guesses and fumbling your way through the reloading process is a good way to ruin your gun and important body parts.
Learn to read water. It's the most critical, fundamental skill in trout fishing. If you don't know how to find trout, you won't catch them. My favorite book on the topic; there is also tons of solid free material online. https://www.amazon.com/Reading-Trout-Water-Dave-Hughes/dp/081173644X
Buy these books and do the stuff inside of them. These are the only sources you will need, and if you put the time and effort in you will become a good shooter.
Practical Pistol Reloaded
Dry Fire Reloaded
Skills and Drills Reloaded
Breakthrough Marksmanship
It would be best to read them in that order. They are all short and to the point.
You could also become a member at Practical Shooting Training Group, it is about $25/month and up, but there is great information there as well.
The ABCs of reloading is a good place to start, or you can buy a load book and it will usually cover the basics of reloading. I believe all the reloading books run about $20-30
Here is an link to a copy of the ABCs of reloading on amazon, it is $16.58
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372064847&sr=8-1&keywords=ABCs+of+reloading
Another good read is The ABC's of Reloading
https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633
I learned everything via youtube and reading The ABC's of Reloading.
https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968
Iraqveteran8888 had some good videos on reloading that helped me out a lot. https://www.youtube.com/user/Iraqveteran8888
..and setting up an indicator and nymph rig feels basically like bobber-fishing..
Everyone's got a definition for every thing, right? Some would argue (albeit wrongly so) that when you tie on a monster #4 cricket tied w pink and green foam as a 'dry fly' for a dropper rig, it's the same. Long story longer, forget the semantics and definitions and fish for you and to have fun.
Want to get in to nymping? Like seriously get into it? It's all right here: George Daniels Dynamic Nymphing. Literally game changing stuff, for me. I think my light bulb moments came after watching him speak on these YouTube videos. Him talking about drift and how flies react when not being dragged w fly line seemed to make a ton of sense.
There are a lot of great guys in the sub, too, so feel free to ask away!
A good way to increase your knowledge base is reading. Here are some books I have read and would recommend.
A. Navy Seal Shooting by Chris Sajnog.
Probably the best book to learn about the fundamentals. Chris covers the mental mastery of shooting better than any other book I am aware of.
B. In The Gravest Extreme by Massad Ayoob.
If you own guns for self defense I would recommend this book. While this was written in the 1980's it is still relevant today. It is the definitive work on deadly use of force law in the United States.
C. Combat Shooting (Or any other book) by Massad Ayoob
Ayoob has established himself as perhaps the authority on defensive handgun use through his extensive use of case studies.
D. The Book of Two Guns by Tiger Mckee.
This was written primarily revolving around the AR-15 and 1911. However, It's principles are applicable to any fighting rifle or handgun.
This. And god forbid that it’s someone from a different race or economic class and the media gets a hold of it.
Self Defense
Dry fire practice is great! Check out Dry Fire: Reloaded by Ben Stoeger. It has lots of great dry fire drills to gain proficiency.
Now practice. https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter-ebook/dp/B00QLK3A6Y/
> I'm curious to know if they are worth the money.
They work. As does Refinement and Repetition, the Ben Stoeger book, the SIRT pistol, and many other products.
The critical part isn't the fancy book/tool/gizmo that gets you do to the regular practice of 15-minutes per day, 5-6 days per week. The critical part is doing the 15-minutes-per-day of dry practice.
Two-handed frontal targets. Draw and fire. Turn, draw and fire. Step and fire. Left-hand only. Seated (including seatbelt) draw. Etc. Etc. 15-minutes per day.
This guy right here. I read it while I was bored in Air Force tech school and it was a great resource.
Buy this book, it's worth every penny.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Nymphing-Tactics-Techniques-Around/dp/0811707415
Start with a reloading manual.
Something like this
Welcome to a lifelong addiction! I agree with a lot of people on here that buying a good book will help you out a lot. Likewise, spending some time casting before you hit the water will make for a lot less frustration. A good book will help you know how to cast right and what it feels like. I don't own it myself, but I've heard good things personally about this book:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1592288189
Now as to your equipment, whatever works best for you is what you should fish with, regardless of how cheap it is. That being said, there is a big difference between a professionally designed rod and a generic fly rod. If you can possibly afford to step it up a bit in your price range, you will set yourself up with equipment that will easily keep you both happy and challenged for 5-10 years. Here's my recommendation (just a recommendation, nothing more, nothing less):
Temple Fork Outfitters make professionally designed rods that, like most major brands, have a lifetime guarantee and you can always return it (or a piece of it) for a repair. They are able to offer a seriously nice rod for less because the manufacturing is done in China. The company and design is in the US. Basically, it's a great rod for a lot less because of where it's made. http://www.templeforkflyrods.com/
Ross reels are like the GMC of fly reels. Nothing fancy, but super dependable and you get everything you need to do the job. My first reel was a Ross (anyone remember the Cimarron?) and I keep it around because it's every bit as usable as when I bought it 12 years ago. They're seriously good reels.
http://www.rossreels.com/
As to the length, I strongly suggest something near a 9'. It gives you enough flex to "feel" a backcast so that you can establish a good cast early on. This way, you won't have to break bad habits later in your life. The standard weight for a beginner is 5. However, don't feel intimidated by a 3 or 4. If you're fishing for trout, these are all acceptable.
This was a bit longer than I expected, but I hope it is useful. PM if you have any questions that I can help with.
EDIT: Sorry, one last thing!
The less fished the water, the more likely you are to be successful on it. Spend a bit of time looking around your area on google maps or topos and find water that may be smaller, but is further from a road. Any time water is visible from a road, you can almost guarantee it has been fished earlier in the day before you. Finding somewhere remote will give you some positive feedback on fishing and keep you from getting frustrated early on.
Ok, I'll shut up now.
You are potentially impacting far more than the distance you're able to see. There are entire books devoted to managing hunting land. I'd read a couple before doing anything.
Here's a good one:
https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316
Archives for the links in comments:
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Not sure your location but this may cover more than New England. This is my go to book for bug identification and what flies will imitate them. https://www.amazon.com/Hatch-Guide-New-England-Streams/dp/1571882103/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500243946&sr=8-1&keywords=new+england+hatches
Where do you live? CT?
Fly fishing has a pretty serious learning curve, from my experience. I assume being avid fisherman, you are pretty comfortable working a lure such as a Rapala? The very fist type of fly I would suggest you try is streamers. It's very straight forward and you can work the streamer like a standard lure. Buy some wooly buggers in various colors and stick to them for a while.
Secondly, catching fish in february isn't easy. If we're simply discussing chance of success, I would suggest you focus your fishing efforts in April/May/June when the water temps help fish activity.
After catching some things on buggers, I would try nymphing and dry flies. A great book on nymphing is Dynamic Nymphing by George Daniel
Lastly, if you are still struggling, find someone to bring you out and work with you. I'm too far from CT to assist, but you can hire a guide or maybe someone on this board lives up there and would take you out and help.
Best of luck! Would love to see an update to this when you finally do land some fish!
Depending on where you live, try this, this or this.
The ABCs of Reloading is great. I happen to like the Lee manual and use it in conjunction with manufacturer websites when I am developing loads.
Get a copy of George Daniel's book Dynamic Nymphing
Packing light + fly fishing....hah, that's a fine joke.
Two fly boxes = either a newbie, a true veteran, or somebody with waaaay more discipline than I have.
Yeah, I see those E12 caddis-ish things now. Those will probably work, but you'll probably want some EHCs too. It's a ridiculously productive pattern.
Thought of one other thing: you may want some hoppers. You could grease up those muddlers and fool some fish, but they won't float for long. Hucking big hoppers along a grassy shoreline is one of summer's finest pleasures in the Western US.
Nymphing....yup, that's a big subject. Yes, it can be VERY productive, particularly on the crowded tailwaters (aka tailraces, the stretches of water beneath a dam with controlled flows; many of them function like spring creeks in terms of producing bugs - and therefore large quantities of large fish). It also gets very technical, even down to specialized rods and lines, plus a variety of rigs and techniques and, of course, fly patterns.
There are multiple styles of nymphing ranging from simple to uber-techy. Here's a quick-and-dirty intro that'll probably start a war...
Broadly speaking, the indicator techniques are probably better for deeper water and long-line situations, and the shorter line flavours can be deadly effective in shallower rivers. Streamer fishing can be effective in more situations than most people think, and the hopper-dropper thing is mostly for pocket water.
From there...well, just read Dynamic Nymphing and choose how down this slippery slope you want to slide.
Yes, you need to start tying. And when you do, kiss your minimalistic habits good-bye....
Combat Shooting with Massad Ayoob.
Go fast
But seriously, check out Practical Pistol Reloaded and Dryfire Reloaded.
George Daniel is the master. I was fortunate to take a class with him a few years ago. His book Dynamic Nymphing is probably the best book on the subject.
This is a good place to start.
Well then heres a great place to start on your own - ABC's of Reloading
It seriously takes a lot of tying practice to make them not bulky - Use smaller thread, less thread wraps and all together, less material.
You'll see your patterns get simpler and simpler, tapers getting better, taking less time, etc.
If you're in the mood for some deep research and stuff, get George Daniels "Dynamic Nymphing" book - It's not all about that euro, it covers everything. Especially weight.
You need to read some books on the subject. This one is my favorite. I advise you read it before attempting to load your first round.
The lee anniversary kit is a good low-cost single stage kit. You may be able to find them on sale for $100 if you are patient. You will also need a set of ~$30 dies for any caliber you wish to load.
Also check out /r/reloading once you get started. We like to help keep new reloaders safe.
Yes! Check out Dave Hughes' book Reading Trout Waters or a similar book/resource about how to read trout waters.
If you know where the fish will be holding, you'll have a much better idea of how to approach fly fishing and you'll increase your hookup rate.
Upgrades never hurt. I just have seen so many people get equipment tunnel vision so I harp on it. Sounds like you have your priorties straight. If you have extra cash buy this
https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524539065&sr=8-2&keywords=ben+stoeger+dry+fire
It's cheap, and if you stick with it you will improve.
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332711862&sr=8-1
Dry Fire Reloaded will give you a good handle on dry fire.
I haven't read this book yet, but this question was asked sometime ago, and this book received several recommendations.
https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316
First,
Read this book cover to cover:
https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968
Then read it again.
Once you have done that, you should understand the basics of working up loads and what to look for in much more detail than you will get in a post from here.
I learned a lot from this: http://www.amazon.com/Reading-Trout-Water-Dave-Hughes/dp/081173644X/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458838109&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=reading+terout+waters
"Reading Trout Water" by Dave Hughes.
Not sure if you are a trout fisherman, but I thought it was filled with great info.
I'm reading this as you know how to fire rifles well but are new to pistols and are having trouble. If you used iron sights on rifles I'm assuming you have sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger pull fundamentals. That leaves the biggest culprit your handgun grip, recoil anticipation, and stance. I highly recommend getting a laser insert such as the LaserLyte Laser Trainer which will help you work on the fundamentals without the recoil doing dry fire. I recommend the book [navy seal shooting](Navy SEAL Shooting https://www.amazon.com/dp/194378700X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LP2zzbTG326QX) by Chris Sajnog. It's got some good info. He also has a youtube channel with some pretty good info. For pistol grip I found Jerry Miculek's video helpful.
One tip my wife taught me on trigger control when adjusting to recoil is focus on saying the word "squeeeeeeeeeezzzzeee" in your mind when you are ready to fire, slowly adding pressure to the trigger until the shot happens. It avoids the anticipation because you are almost surprised by the shot when it finally goes off.
In person lessons are good if you can get them. If you don't have someone to help you try setting up a video of you shooting so you can see what your stance and movement looks like.
One last note, when I took my California fire arms training they made a big deal about not shooting water because of the danger of ricochet it poses. I have no experience with it myself, but just thought I'd pass it along.
Thanks for sharing. I made this video, as many people that shoot USPSA/IPSC use dry fire training. Typically you just stick something like a zip tie between the slide and bore keeping it out of battery. This was something I stumbled across this after hearing that Bob Vogel, arguably the best Glock shooter, recommended it.
There were not any videos other than from the manufacture about it. All were from very far away and extremely low resolution.
This actually gives you approximately the same feedback as the actual trigger will when fired live. Combined with training regimes that you can find online or outlined in books like Stoeger's you can step your game up without spending as much time and money on the range. https://www.amazon.com/DryFire-Reloaded-Ben-Stoeger/dp/1542880246/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493316220&sr=8-1
$100 is definitely steep for casual shooters, but I'd recommend it for competition guys. $100 of ammo will be burned up in less than a month of training or matches for me.
This book is good for getting all the info you'll need on how to not kill yourself and figure out what you'll need. No loading data really, get a lyman's manual for that. This is more of a beginner's guide. http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418410032&sr=8-1&keywords=the+abc%27s+of+reloading&pebp=1418410025785
The ones I always suggest are Way of the Warrior, 400 Things Cops Know and then pick up a book on shooting techniques. I recommend Combat Shooting by Massad Ayoob. Another one is Verbal Judo, though I haven't read it yet.
/u/FlynnRetriever I'm going to tag you too so you definitely see this because I looked up links and everything for you fam.
you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.
[This] (https://www.amazon.com/Law-Self-Defense-Indispensable-Citizen/dp/0988867702) is probably the best summary you can get on how it works in the US.
I'm only a C-class scrub, so take that with a grain of salt. Many of the things I'm pointing out are things I'm trying to improve on myself.
Overall, good stuff. The stages look fun, you've got lots of video for your own analysis, and you're clearly analyzing yourself and looking for feedback.
If you want to continue with USPSA (and you should!) I highly recommend Ben Stoeger's Practical Pistol Reloaded. It is the best book on pistol shooting fundamentals and USPSA shooting out there.
Well, for your sake, I really hope you are never in the situation where you have to test that, because you are likely to be in some trouble.
I would strongly recommend you read this.
https://www.amazon.com/Law-Self-Defense-Indispensable-Citizen/dp/0988867702
Now, you might be able to argue that you believe that anyone who breaks into your house is there to harm you. But that is where the reasonableness part comes in.
If an 8 year old breaks into your house, there is no way any reasonable person would believe that you were in physical danger.
Of course, if by this
>anyone I deem a threat that unlawfully entered my house.
you are simply taking a short cut to the Reasonableness and Proportionality aspects, that's fine. But if that is the case, why are you arguing?
Buy Mr. Hookhands Book ABC's of Reloading. Best book out there for anyone who reloads. Your press will come with the 9th or 10th Hornady book too.
Do yourself a favor and borrow/buy a copy of this book.
Or, if you feel you're enough up to speed to start, take a visit to this site and do some shopping. See what you're willing to spend or do without.
As a starter, this setup/kit is a popular and common setup for what you're describing. Except for the 12ga stuff - that'd take a shotshell press and unless you do a LOT of that, may not be worth the expense/hassle. Up to you.
As for your question about die-setting: dunno but nothing about a "pressroom", so can't say for sure - but it could be.
edit: added 3rd link
Ordinarily I wouldn't recommend a progressive as a first kit, since there's quite a bit of reloading that I prefer to do on a single stage: Fine-tuning rifle loads for accuracy being one of them. Starting out on a single stage gives you the opportunity to see in detail what each die is actually doing and how to adjust them. But I'm sure you can still learn on a LnL AP. I use a Dillon, but in the end it's the same general idea.
This is what I always recommend to people who start out reloading:
If you take the metallic reloading class, a lot of that stuff will be covered. But if you learn how to reload in the benchrest environment and then start reloading for some kind of autoloading rifle like an AR15, G3, M1A/M14, M1 etc then you are playing with fire unless you approach it from a different angle.
Sure!
I use this android app and do a couple of the drills that come with it.
I focused mostly on the IDPA String drill (draw, 2 to the body, 1 to the head), then a drill where you take one shot, do a magazine change, then a second shot.
I then moved the targets into a "mini" classifier that is sort of like CM 13-01 Disaster Factor (although with smaller top targets instead of no shoots) and then practiced doing that classifier - including the turn, draw, and shoot.
I also bought Dryfire Reloaded from Amazon and have started reading through
NO!
The 45 headspaces on the case mouth, so it hardly needs any crimping, just a bit to roll back the expanding that was done for the bullet.
These rounds no longer have a case mouth, so they will fall right through into the chamber. Which means that some of the case can get pinched in the throat, which may lead to overpressure.
Before doing anything else, get a good book on reloading, for example, this: http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968 - and read it before proceeding any further.
this is an excellent book to read when you are trying to get into flyfishing http://www.amazon.com/Fly-Fishing-Completely-Revised-Updated-Illustrations/dp/1592288189
As some one already suggest The Art of the Rifle, I will suggest another Jeff Cooper book, To Ride, Shoot Straight, And Speak The Truth.
Also Shooting To Live by W. E. Fairbairn and E. A. Sykes is also a interesting read.
EDIT: Also if you are interested in reloading, start with The ABCs of Reloading.
And dry fire. This book has a lot of great drills and general pistol shooting advice.
I have that exact kit. I would recommend buying the stuff separately, though. The scale is finicky at best. I struggled with it for a year and finally replaced it in December. Head over to /r/reloading and read the FAQ. There's a ton of good information.
The ABCs of Reloading is regarded as THE beginner's guide. You'll also need a reloading manual. I'd recommend Lyman's 49th as a starter.
For dies, I'd get the Lee Ultimate Die set for 308. It'll come with everything you'll need to reload for semi auto and bolt guns. The Lee Factory Crimp die and Collet Neck Sizing die are second to only $150+ die sets.
If you'd like me to build you a reloading setup with links, let me know.
A little reading is also recommended. Check this out. Very good read and recommended quite a bit, especially for those who think they will be going into competition shooting.
I think the best instructional books for a beginner are either the Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide or the LL Bean Ultimate Book of Fly-Fishing. For fun reads, you can't go wrong with any of John Gierach's books. Trout Bum would be a good starting point.
9 mm isn't really cost effective to reload, but it is a lot more forgiving than 7.62x54r to learn on and you can basically get started reloading for 9mm with just a $30 hand press, a set of dies, and some basic components. Maybe start simple and then move on to rifle cartridges as skills and budget grow? I learned on .44 mag and branched out from there. I think straight wall revolver cartridges are the ideal "beginner" cartridge, but you already own a 9mm so that's probably the next best thing.
Highly recommend reading this book if nothing else. It'll help you figure out what you need to get started and covers most of the basic essentials.
The ABCs of Reloading is the book I recommend for people who are new to reloading. No load data, but a lot of info on many different aspects of the process.
>The data for foot-pounds of force is taken from expected use: a 9mm round through a Glock 19, a .308 through a 24" barrel, etc. It should be noted that you'll lose muzzle velocity the shorter your barrel gets. I believe this also increases felt recoil, right?
A little more complicated, but true enough in practice. A shorter barreled weapon usually has faster burning powder. So if you run a .45acp through a long rifle barrel (20") you might end up with less muzzle velocity.
The only thing (if the cartridge is the same) that increases felt recoil is the weight of the weapon, and the way the firearm deals with recoil. If you fire a .308 in an ultralight guide rifle - it is going to hurt. If you have a shorter barrel, there will be less recoil entering the firearm but negligible as to what you feel. Once the gasses exit the barrel they aren't acting on the gun that much anymore. That is why silencers and muzzle breaks reduce recoil - because the gas that used to just flow away is now pushing forwards on the gun, reducing recoil.
If the weight of the gun is the same, the way that the firearm deals with or uses the recoil becomes very important. In a very rigid firearm (say an ultralight scandium/titanium revolver) there is no energy absorbed and slowed by the frame - it ALL goes into your hand (ouch!). If you get a polymer frame, the firearm flexs a bit and slows the recoil making it more comfortable.
If the firearm actually makes use of the recoil energy (autoloaders) then part of that energy is being used to cycle a new round. This reduces the recoil delivered to you, and makes it slower and more comfortable. Roller locked delayed blowback designs (MP5, G3, etc) do a great job of transferring the recoil impulse into a lighter weight bolt and using acceleration to absorb the energy instead of mass. Personally, I think this was one of the greatest systems there was (and is to a far less degree) for shooter comfort - but there are wear issues that are more of a concern (100k rounds or something) than in locked bolt designs.
When you get into the more recent guns, they start to use most all of the above. My FN FS2000 shoots like a dream. Polymer frame, somewhat heavy gun, lighter bullet, piston driven locked bolt, longer rearward travel of the bolt group, and everything hits flexible on flexible, energy absorbing stock. My wife can shoot this and doesn't find it much different than a .22lr 10/22.
Then you get into the designed for recoil guns, and I know of only one - the KRISS. I read about this thing a long time ago, and it seemed ingenious, but although it popped up in the magazines from time to time it never "took." But they are real now (as in you can buy them) and while I haven't shot one yet, apparently the hype lives up to the performance. In these guns you take all of the above, and add purposefully engineered methods of reducing to eliminating recoil. The idea is that you take the recoil energy and make it go up and down instead of back, in a basically mutually exclusive waste of energy.
http://www.kriss-arms.com/technology
From the one guy that I have met that has shot one (an owner of a very large gunshop) he described it as "irrelevant."
>Do you have any good information on the upper limits for this sort of thing? I made the mistake of shooting a hand-loaded .45-70 I wasn't ready for -- that was at least 3,000 ft/lbs (yeah, I know, "I swear it was this big"). How much more could you load a .45-70, for example, before it's unsafe? How little energy could you pack in a 9mm before it will fail to cycle (I know this is very dependent on the gun, and many cheap handguns won't cycle even with solid factory ammo)
This is something you have to find bit by bit, and with the help of advanced hand loaders. There are people who use "cups" (I can't remember the exact name, but I think that might be it) to load up rounds and then they can determine chamber pressure by the deformation of the cup. If you are willing to be more patient, and a little more risk taking you can slowly work your way up and see how the brass performs.
So unfortunately, no help there.
>Very true. The reason I think muzzle energy is a great indicator of a firearm's power is Newton's 3rd Law. Two cartridges with equal muzzle energy but a different bullet shape (or weight to speed ratio) may have different stopping power, but two cartridges with equal muzzle energy will have equal recoil. Since most "I'm interested, tell me more" type shooters are interested in getting experience with firearms -- not getting information on how best to take down an animal -- I think that set of statistics is the most valuable.
For sure, for sure. I really was just trying to fill in some of the blanks you left. As I said your post was great.
>I definitely agree with that and every point you've made seems like it's deserving of a post -- 'beginners guide to safe, humane, effective hunting', perhaps. I was more interesting in the mechanical, experiential explanation of general firearms terms. Personally my only real interest with firearms is in target shooting, so it's clear why I didn't focus on hand loads, stopping power, etc. Out of my realm of (amateur) expertise.
I can tell you aren't going to remain in that "amateur" (let's be real, you know more than 98% of people at LEAST) stage for long. Once you get bitten - people usually go nuts on it. I went way overboard, but hey - it is fun learning about it. :)
This is the ballistics book that got me more interested in it -http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Firearm-Ballistics-Robert-Rinker/dp/0964559854/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1370674745&sr=1-1&keywords=ballistics
As a warning - you have to really enjoy it because it is like 500 pages and it doesn't read like a mystery novel. LOL
Don't edit your post, because it was great and factual - it just provided an incomplete picture. For most people purchasing a lower powered round is actually quite a bit more helpful in practice.
Sorry for barraging you with text again. This is just a topic that I really enjoy, so I probably ramble off point and write more than I need to. :)
I believe this book actually covers the topic "defense of a third person" thoroughly. I know, like swalsh411 mentioned below. It can be risky. http://www.amazon.com/Self-Defense-Laws-States-Edition/dp/0984505873
I wouldn't say that it is something to be taken lightly (you are making cartridges, after all, and if you make a mistake you could lose a body part or worse), but it's not rocket science, and I would argue that if you take it slowly, educate yourself, don't get distracted while reloading, and don't push the boundaries of the stated load data it is fairly safe, much like shooting and driving a car are fairly safe if you are smart about them.
As for reloading manuals... I am the wrong person to ask. I've done some shotgun reloading in my apartment and will be buying a turret press to load .357 Magnum and .38 Special rounds shortly. I've been reading the ABCs of Reloading and Reloading for Handgunners in preparation for my coming foray into handgun reloading, and they have been helpful. I'll also be getting manuals from the major powder manufacturers before I begin, as well as probably the Lyman and/or Hornady manuals as well. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorite books, and if not, check out /r/reloading.
I'll probably be getting a Lee Turret Press to start. Given that I already have a good scale for shotshell reloading (which I can do for $3/box, loading for low cost), which saves me $70, I figure I can get into handgun reloading for another $200 or less, plus the cost of consumables, and load light .357s for a ~$6-7 per 50 with plated bullets, vs ~$20 a box for commercially loaded .357 ammo and $14 or so for cheap commercially made .38 Special ammo.
“Fishing for Dummies” is a really good basic overview and used copies are really cheap online.
Basically a larger fly that you strip (fly fishing you don't reel line in you strip it in with your hands, basically the reel's only used in fighting fish and holding your line,) typically some kind of minnow pattern. A lot of people would say you don't need an 8 wt for streamer fishing for bass but its a whole hell of a lot easier to cast streamers with an 8wt. Plus I never target panfish, I find panfish fishing to be pretty boring, when I bass fish, I mainly just huck streamers at largemouths. Also with an 8wt you can fish for larger species like pike. Good luck! Oh I would pick up Fly Fishers Guide to Virginia There is one for pretty much every state and the book outlines anything you need to know for locating fisheries for all species across your state. So when the time comes that you want to hunt some trout down you can find rivers in your area. Also stop into a fly shop, not Orvis or anything but a more mom and pop type shop, they will always offer information on where to fish freely and happily.
Yep, depending on how hot you load them and the quality of the brass. Check for signs of case fatigue like cracking, splitting, worn out primer pockets, etc.
I'd recommend the book The ABC's of Reloading, there is a ton of information on how to find signs of failing brass with photos of each type of warning sign:
http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419913730&sr=8-1&keywords=abcs+of+reloading
This will answer all of your questions:
The FAQ on /r/reloading has good info. I'd also get The ABCs of Reloading and read it through before buying any equipment.
I just got started a few weeks ago loading for .38 Special and it's a surprising amount of fun. I'm already planning to expand to include 9mm and .223.
Honestly if you have zero experience I suggest getting one of those how to books.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Idiots-Fishing-Basics-Edition/dp/0028638840
http://www.amazon.com/Fishing-Dummies-Peter-Kaminsky-ebook/dp/B004X75OMA
They may seem silly, but they have all the information a beginner would need, like basic equipment information, fishing knots, and species specific info. Being from SF you will more than likely will have more saltwater opportunities than freshwater (I am from CA but not from SF so I am not 100% sure about that). This allows for some interesting opportunities. You go can use a charter service which often provide everything you need (so you are not stuck with a bunch of fishing tackle if this isn't the hobby for you) or you can use one of the many piers in CA. The cool thing about piers is that many of them have bait shops that rent out gear (again no permanent investment on your part) , they also usually do not require a fishing license which is a bonus. A regular fishing license currently runs $47.01.
If you are interested in buying you own gear and going the whole 9 yards there are a few things to keep in mind. One rod and reel set up will not covering everything. Set ups need to correspond with the types of fish you targeting. Things can get very expensive too. Rods and reels can easy cost $100s. However I believe that the cheap gear of today is generally much better than than it was 20 years ago. A casual fisherman can get good use out of 40/50 dollar setups. Now if I were starting out I would get something like a 6 1/2 to 7 foot medium action spinning rod. I like Berkley Cherrywood rods, they usually run just over 20 buck they seem to be available at any old walmart. For a reel I would get either a 2500 or 4000 Shimano. You can spend as little as $20 bucks to several $100 on Shimanos. The $20 to $40 ones should serve you just fine. Fill the spool with 8 to 10 lb test line and you got a budget light tackle set up. I should note that going after steelheads is not what I would consider casual fishing.
Now that set up I mention would serve you fine for casual fishing for trout, bass, even eating size catfish, but I had another purpose in mind. Out here on the west coast we have surf perch which offer year round fishing. The best part is that it is probably some of the easiest fishing there is. They hold on just about every beach and they do not require fancy techniques. Sandy beaches usually lack the kind of structure that would cause a fisherman to break off, so re tying your hooks becomes less of an issue. Its is probably a good place to learn how to cast as there is plenty of room for error. Small soft plastics are the preferred "bait" used for surf perch which is another bonus because it will not stink or be messing like natural bait. The "technique" is nothing more than casting out and reeling in slowly. You will have to learn how to set a hook, but using very sharp hooks can help with that as the fish can hook themselves. The only bad thing is the salt water and sand. Do you best to keep you reel out of both and rinse of the entire reel in fresh water when you get home. I love this kind of surf fishing because it is so simple. In the summer it can be fun just get in the water to your knees and have a nice day fishing. If you catch nothing then you still spent your day at the beach.
Sorry if I "talked your ear off". I really like fishing. Feel free to come over to r/fishing.
Depends on where you live: http://www.amazon.com/Self-Defense-Laws-States-Edition/dp/0984505873
Soft is a relative term. As for literature you can try looking up this book in the library. I've not read through this particular one so I wouldn't say buy it.
[The ABCs of Reloading is currently on sale for $2 at the Amazon Kindle store.] (http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-ebook/dp/B004GUSBP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1334835938&sr=1-1)
This one. Not a reloading manual in the sense of being a bunch of load data, but is an entire book just about the process. It's fairly cheap on Amazon as well.
My source is
The Law of Self Defense By Andrew F. Branca (Attorney at Law)
(This is gonna take a while for me to type...)
>Burden of Production
>You do not have an automatic right to tell the jury you acted in self defense. Yes, you read that correctly
>If you want to say to the jurors "it was self defense" then there must be some evidence that you were defending yourself. And the job to get that evidence, called the burden of production, falls squarely on you. If you fail to meet this burden to the jury will here about a body, a gun in your hand and not one word about self defense.
So, my point with the above is that there can be cases where important information is omitted. I am not a lawyer, I just recalled this and inferred, perhaps incorrectly. I am not lawyer, just saying what I think. Which is the point.
I just wanted you to know I wasn't making crap up.
A link to the book, so you know what I am talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/The-Law-Self-Defense-Indispensable/dp/0988867702
Similar history with me as well. I'm a hunter by nature, so whenever I get in the woods, it is the most refreshing thing ever.
Have you ever seen a book that had 100% 5/5 reviews? This one does. I bought this book several years ago and it is by far the best, most insightful book about deer and deer hunting in existence.
https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316
Start with this book and you will know as much or more than a person that has hunted for 10 years.
Whether you hunt this year or next - get the book.
Ok... Now that you have that covered, get out in the woods (after hunting season) and look for rubs and scrapes.. Its also fun to go shed hunting (searching for dropped antlers) in March or so.
Do that and you've got yourself a great start.
I'd say it's a perfectly serviceable set if you're just getting into the handloading game. What it comes down to is what you're hoping to achieve by handloading, and buying equipment that supports that need.
Personal opinion time: I'd steer clear of using the factory crimp die. If you have your dies set up properly, you'll never need to use it. It can be used to coerce out of spec handloads back into shape if you've messed them up, but don't expect to see any repeatable results in accuracy after using it.
The Hornady and Sierra reloading handbooks are the two I go to most often, with the Lyman following close behind. I would highly recommend you get a copy of the The ABCs of Reloading by C. Rodney James and read that cover to cover just to see if there's any tidbits of info that you might not already know. It's a worthwhile read.
EDIT: I was corrected by /u/flange2016 on how the Lee FCD works on rifles. Please see his reply to me below.
I've got all sorts, as I tie my own. I do use a 11' 3-wt., but you can "high stick" nymph with any length of rod. I know there have been posts in the past on Euro-nymphing, and so, just search.
If you really want to know more, this book by George Daniel is a classic. He also has some videos on YouTube.
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