Best hunting & shooting accessories according to redditors

We found 767 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & shooting accessories. We ranked the 317 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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CB & two-way radios
Hunting cage traps
Hunting camouflage accessories
Hunting decoy accessories
Hunting decoys
Hunting signs
Handeld GPS units
Hunting game feeders & accessories

Top Reddit comments about Hunting & Shooting Accessories:

u/RazorRaul · 41 pointsr/gundeals

36 of these mags fit in one of these in a way that is highly pleasing for my autism.

LCM of 16 and 36 is 144, making an order of 4 ac11s, and 145 mags the most cost effective way to wallow in your autism.

u/muggsybeans · 25 pointsr/news

You can't even buy gun stock oil out of state. If anyone doesn't know what that is, it is this stuff:

It's literally a finish for wood. If you live in California, you can't even buy it online and have it shipped to another state if your billing address is in California. This is what LIberals refer to as smart gun laws.

u/Chtorrr · 13 pointsr/WTF
u/Zak · 13 pointsr/flashlight
u/Bongolian_Horde · 13 pointsr/gundeals

I use a lee turret press, and that, with a turret, die set, primer and powder drop thingies cost a little over $200.

You will need measuring devices like calipers, a scale and case gauges. That could be $50 or a lot more depending on scale quality. I use a $30 digital one, but I calibrate it everytime I use it. Powder charges, overall length measurements, and headspace length on the brass case are very important.

You will need case prep tools, especially for bottleneck rifle brass. I got this guy to just do it all. $170
You can get trimmers, chamfer bits, and those things that attach to drills, there are tabletop hand trimmers, other electric trimmers, but at the end of the day, the frankford thing is just quick and easy. Trimming rifle brass is easily the worst part of the whole process.

A tumbler and tumble media will clean up all your fired brass, dry vibratory ones work fine and are cheaper. Mine, with media was about $50

Then come random things like reloading trays, case lube, cartridge cases, and more meticulous measurement things like chamber gauges, concentricity gauges, and more. Outside of lube and cases for loaded rounds, it's not really necessary. Plastic 9mm ammo trays from factory ammo makes for great 223 reloading trays. $50 will get you lube and cases.

Then you need powder, primers and bullets. Primers are usually $30-$40/1,000, Hornady 55gr .224" bullets are about $90-$100/1,000, and powder is about $22-$30/lb, or less in bulk, or from pull down suppliers like american reloading... I use this stuff for everything in 556 but match grade reloads, and 16lbs is good for about 4500 rounds.

You're probably looking at about $500 before the actual powder primers and bullets. That's also assuming you have been saving your brass.

Sorry for the long post, but there is more to reloading than most people initially think. That said, I was able to piece all that together over last summer, and am cranking out rounds whenever I want now.

u/HumidNut · 13 pointsr/reloading

Its decent. The ones published by the bullet manufacturers tend to have their bullets listed exclusively. That's not a bad thing, I shoot a bunch of Hornady.
I have a bunch of manuals, and online sources, but if I had to pick one printed manual, it would be the Lyman 50th edition manual

u/TexasNiteowl · 12 pointsr/fountainpens

The MTM Case-Gard shotshell case...bought mine via Amazon, but sometimes available at local bigbox stores and sports/outdoors stores. Here is the Amazon link:

u/stillcleaningmyroom · 10 pointsr/reloading

I have the 47th or 48th edition, but this is a great book for beginners.

Lyman 50th Ed Reloading Handbook Softcover

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/ar15

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:


  • Vise
  • AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  • AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  • Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  • Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  • Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  • Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  • Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  • Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  • Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.


    That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:

  • AR tool
  • Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  • Roll Pin Punches
  • Vise

    If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.


    ^Edit: ^Formatting.
u/MrBrian22 · 8 pointsr/reloading

I'd think a wet tumbler for brass cleaning would be greatly beneficial...

If he's mentioned other calibers you could get him some dies for those calibers. And if he gets more into rifle calibers, perhaps a brass prep stations such as

Props to you for helping him further his hobby!

u/Baljit147 · 8 pointsr/canadaguns

Friend... it's a book.

And in Canada.




u/SomeOutdoorsGuy · 7 pointsr/canadaguns
u/ahriman4891 · 7 pointsr/fountainpens

In case you are open to another storage idea:

Holds 25 sample vials, keeps them in the dark, closes tightly, is cheap, seems stackable (I only have one so cannot test).

u/bunnicorn · 6 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I have the Ka-Bar Hobo.

It's got a knife, spoon, fork, and bottle opener. Everything a lady foodie needs in a folding knife.

u/lvl20dm · 6 pointsr/fountainpens

As for the ink, try a bunch out! Fountain pens are pretty easy to clean, and trying out all the different inks is my favorite part.

The Goulet Pen Company has ink samples, which are perfect for acquiring a MASSIVE collection of inks to try. Maybe start with the sample packages they have already grouped together (linked).

If you pick up ink from Goulet (or anywhere), don't forget to also order ink syringes. I'm paying this bit of advice forward... when I (recently) got obsessed with fountain pens/inks, someone on Reddit told me this info and I'm glad they did!!

EDIT: By the way, I store my inks in a shotshell box. I don't own a shotgun, but man these are the perfect size for 25 ink samples! ...again, thanks goes to some other Redditer. ...I even think a reviewer on Amazon mentioned ink samples in their review, so I know I'm not the only one! I also mark the tops of mine with a color and symbol to quickly ID them/narrow down what I'm looking for.

u/RallyMech · 6 pointsr/3gun

Rifle stuff:

  • Get a bundle of regular chamber flags, like [these]. There's no reason to spend that much on a chamber flag.
  • I'm a big fan of Holosun Red Dots, especially the motion activated circle dot (EoTech style reticle) models like the HS503GU. The smaller dot definitely helps with longer range-small target shots.
  • If you're going to stick with the TRS-25 (I've competed with one myself), go for the tall riser rather than the medium. Many competitors are moving to 2.04" optic mounts for a more upright head position, the one you linked works out to be 1.54". [Link]
  • The fancy charging handle is somewhere between nice-to-have and pointless. It all depends on whether your local clubs stage guns hot/cold, and whether you have to drop the mag and clear the chamber before dumping the gun. The 4 clubs I shoot at all have different rules for this.
  • I would skip the MS4 sling and the QD end plate. Single point is good in very specific circumstances, which don't exist in 3gun. Save the cash, and get an MS1. Note that you will rarely need or use a sling in 3gun. 2gun/combat type matches generally require one however.
  • Don't buy a BAD lever. Consider the PDQ bolt catch, or another option if you need to manipulate the bolt catch from the right side of the rifle. See here:
  • If you don't already have a bore snake and a cleaning rod, I would pick up both. Bore snake for simple bore maintenance, and cleaning rod to pound out a squib. If you shoot enough, you will eventually get a squib.
  • You will want to buy a handful of mags. Stick with PMAGs, there's no real reason to get anything else.

    Pistol stuff:

  • That holster may not work well with that belt. I would get an ALS version with mid or low ride mount. Or get a purpose made friction only holster. I use a 6930ALS mid ride-light bearing with a G19.
  • I have the same pistol mag caddys. No complaints from me, but if you really want to be competitive from the start, you may want something that allows adjustment for better indexing. Someone else will be able to recommend them for you.


  • Opening up the loading port will help, without a doubt.
  • That shell caddy is really nice. I personally use Taccom caddies due to their price.
  • Skip the fancy chamber flag
  • Might be worth looking into Taccom's match saver [link]. No opinion one way or another. Note that match saver's tend to be consumable items, as dumping the shotgun after using the match saver will sometimes break it.

    Transport Equipment:

  • You will get really annoyed carrying around your gear, ammo, snacks, and water. There's a reason that carts and wagons are so prevalent. I personally use a $40 collapsible wagon from Walmart, because I can't fit anything bigger in my car.
u/Ag3ntDboy · 6 pointsr/airsoft
u/cosmos7 · 5 pointsr/Glocks
  • Glock 19 - $550 (depends on location and taxes)
  • 1k rounds 9mm - $250 (usually cheaper to buy in bulk)
  • Range stuff - $100 (Eyes, Ears, Boresnake, maybe a mag or two, and a range bag

    If you're thinking about extras / carry, budget $100+ for some good night sights, then another $150 or so for a decent gun belt and holster if you want to carry.
u/duckduck-goose · 5 pointsr/Gunsforsale

Are all of these brand new?
Looks like the handgun ones have plastic wrap but wasn't sure about the long gun ones.

Amazon is selling some of these/similar products for similar pricing.

Here's a cheaper version of the AR mat.

u/Foxman50 · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Its actually a gun cleaning mat, but its exactly the same material as any normal mouse pad! Amazon Link Here

u/firesquasher · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

For that money id buy another ar15 gun cleaning mat

u/ISaidNoDecaf · 5 pointsr/gundeals

I'm a fan of the engraved tag idea. If there's a convenient way to attach those tags to MTM ammo cans (like this or this), I'd be down to buy at least a couple.

u/ThePotatoShepherd · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

Another good way to store your vials would be using some shotshell cases like this. Personally I just go the cheap route and use a strip of cardboard with holes cut out to keep the vials together.

u/TacoRave171 · 5 pointsr/reloading

I use one of the Frankford Platinum Series (marketing wank) trimmer/case prep centers almost exclusively.

I have a WFT and its pretty much on permanent loan to a friend that just reloads 100 or so here and there. Pushing a case up into the trimmer and shavings collecting in the housing made it a no go for me for long sessions. If you're not doing a ton of trimming, this should work fine.

I have used the Lee precision Cutter and Lock Stud and don't think this is useful for anyone for more than about a dozen cases at a time, though it does give consistent results.

I have an RCBS Trim pro and I'm sure if it was bolted down to a dedicated spot on a bench it will work just fine, but I don't have that kind of room. Or a bench.

The Frankford Trimmer does a few things I really like. It adjusts with the collets and shoulder guides for a very repeatable cut in just about any caliber imaginable, but most importantly, its comfortable for long sessions. It also busts your $150 requirement, but not by too much.

I place it standing upright in a plastic tub (to catch errant shavings) and use Gloves like these when trimming. I trim relatively clean brass, let the rubber on the gloves grip tight against the case head, and just hold my hand, using gravity and weight, on the case head until I feel the cutter stop cutting. Done. Use the deburr and chamfer tool running off the same drive train and it goes into a bin. I actually worry more about overheating the motor than I worry about being uncomfortable over long sessions. I've used it for thousands of 5.56 and .308, often in increments of a few hundred at a time.

u/JonerThrash · 5 pointsr/GunnitRust

Give your car that feeling and scent of home.

u/EMCoupling · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The exact one.

Search "TekMat" on Amazon for a ton and pick your favorite gun.

A lot of people like to use them as mousepads because they're pretty much the same as the cloth gaming mousepads, but you get more area for cheaper.

u/superdelux86 · 4 pointsr/gundeals

> Tek Mat


u/fuckitsfixed · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Has anyone here ever used a gun cleaning mat as a mousepad? Considering they are just as big and about half the price of a "gaming" extended mousepad.

What I was thinking

u/la_fortezza · 4 pointsr/longrange

I've built something similar using point-to-point Wifi gear. It kinda sucks having to align to line up two antennae but you get much better range.

I am using Ubiquiti Networks ( equipment used in
long haul Wireless ISPs. This equipment is inexpensive and uses
standard technology: Power-Over-Ethernet (POE), Wifi, so it's easy to tweak.

I'm using a 9 amp-hour battery and current draw is ~0.6 amps so that
comes out 10 hours or so. It would be trivial to tack on a Solar panel
or bigger battery. The charge controller takes POE as an input so it's
easy to recharge the battery.

Here are a couple pics:

Shows the camera side of the setup:

Shows two .30 cal shots my tripod took and kept standing. :-)

The price tag for my setup came out to $438, here is the parts list:

2 x AmazonBasics 60-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Bag

POE/Solar Dual Input 12V Battery Charge Control (TP-SCPOE-1224)

12V 9AH AGM SLA Battery (TPBAT12-9)

Power extender over ethernet for Foscam (WS-POE-5v-10w)

Foscam FI8905W Outdoor Wireless/Wired IP Camera

Ubiquiti NanoStation M2

24V 1A 24W Wall Plug Passive POE Inserter (TP-POE-24-WP)

3 x 10FT 24AWG Cat6A 500MHz STP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable -

MTM Ammo Can (Forest Green)

DC Inline Watt Meter and Power Analyzer, Powerpole Ends

Revo 5" Hand Grip for HDSLRs and Video Cameras (Black) - Used for mast to strap Wifi antenna to

1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
Hardware Store

u/Testiculese · 4 pointsr/Firearms

I found these cans to be very weak. The walls are too thin.

MTM boxes are far better. I have them packed as packed as can be, and they don't flex.

u/JonSzanto · 4 pointsr/fountainpens

Yep: there might be cheaper sources, but this is what I've bought on Amazon. On sale now for <$4.

(And me, a non-gun person...)

Here's mine. See, it's perfect (I padded inside the top with foam because I was mailing these 25 samples.)

u/MAexplorer · 4 pointsr/fountainpens

Looks like it doubled in price, but still a great buy imo. Here's the link

u/PraiseBeToIdiots · 4 pointsr/guns

Both of you are idiots.

You're an idiot for letting someone fuck around in your gun safe without your supervision, when you had potentially loaded guns in there.

Your friend is an idiot because he definitely popped one off and is lying because he's embarrassed.

And you're an idiot again because you couldn't be bothered to buy these:

u/madapiarist · 4 pointsr/canadagunsEE

How firm? They are $228 on Amazon right now with free shipping, which is pretty close to the average price.

u/zxj4k3xz · 4 pointsr/airsoft
  1. Depends on your experience. If you're new to teching, getting something good off the bat is my recommendation. If you want a nice middle ground, get an ICS. Good internals out of the box, and split gearbox makes it easy to work on.

  2. Flat-hop or r-hop for range and consistency. R-hop is better, but more difficult/time consuming, so might be worth getting it professionally done.

  3. A good mask or goggles that don't fog are a must. A Dye I4 or Dye I5 are best if you want a mask, and the Pyramex I-force are very nice for goggles. For a lower face mask, if you're using goggles, the One Tigris mask is very nice.

    Mid cap vs hi cap is really just preference. Mid caps are more realistic, don't make any noise, and don't need to be wound. Hi caps are easier to load and hold a lot more ammo.

    UTG makes some good optics. I have their Magnifier and short dot, and their red dot is pretty popular as well. If you want cheap, the Field Sport red dot is supposed to be pretty solid. Bushnell and Primary Arms are on the higher end of micro red dots, at least for airsoft. I have the Primary Arms and it's real nice.
u/A_Plinkers_Damn · 4 pointsr/reloading

Here's a (very) rough guide:

  • Start with the FAQ. It'll help you find answers to 90% of the questions you'll have.
  • Move on to Youtube. It has plenty of reloading info to help you make decisions.

    Now, spend some money by:

  • Getting a good manual. The standard is Lyman, but I honestly prefer Lee's. Read the first third or so of whichever one you get a few times. That'll give you an in-depth review.

    Once you've got all that down:

  • Decide on how you want to start/what your budget is. Go back to the FAQ and start figuring out what you can/want to afford.

  • Order your gear.

  • Get your consumables. Do not buy a bunch of powder/primers/bullets until you've had a chance to figure out what your gun(s) like. Once you do... THEN buy in bulk.

  • Build your bullets.

  • Shoot your first reloaded round with one finger and flinching away from the gun. (Everyone does it.)

  • Don't save any money at all, because reloading just means you shoot more.

    Also, for a K11, you'll be best served by buying some cheap PPU ammo and reloading it instead of buying fresh brass. It'll let you get used to the rifle AND save you the cost of brass.

    Have fun!
u/schwing_it · 3 pointsr/CCW

My kit

Real Avid Handgun Smart Mat-19-inch by 16-inch Handgun Cleaning Mat

Hoppe's 24002 BoreSnake Pistol and Revolver Bore Cleaner, 9mm, .357, .380, .38 Caliber

Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaning Patch for 2 1/4" Square 9 mm/.38/.45 Caliber (Pack of 500)

Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner Spray Bottle, 8 Ounces

Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Grease, 1-3/4 oz. Tube

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle

SE 7624BC-5 Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz

Hoppe's No. 9, 9-Piece Pistol Cleaning Kit

(Tapered and Regular Tip) Type-III 100pc Gun Cleaning 6 Inch American Made Cotton Swabs

I also picked up some cans of compressed air at Walmart

u/lodestaris · 3 pointsr/knives

The Spyderco Spyderpac is a good one on a budget. I actually think that works well for a closet since you can hang it right on the door/wall.

I agree with the other poster, the pelican cases with knife slots are a nice choice. Not as budget friendly.

You can probably find some no name pluck foam case to do it more reasonably.

u/L8sho · 3 pointsr/Hunting

I'm adding to what Pedro said above, because it's spot on.

For a beginner, definitely start with a curved tip knife. You don't want to go overboard while skinning and drop or puncture the guts at the wrong time, and you definitely don't want to accidentally cut a tendon in the legs that the deer is hanging on. You can get a nice "deer kick" in the face, due to the laws of gravity.

I've cleaned hundreds of whitetail in my life, and taught dozens of new hunters. My father taught many times more than me. Accidentally cutting the tendon when skinning around the legs is the biggest rookie mistake I see. The last guy that I taught (this last season) did exactly that, even after I told him not to no less than 3 times beforehand.

I'd recommend a knife something like this one for a cheap start. They probably have one similar, if not identical in every Walmart in your area

As for cutting the feet off just before separating the shoulders, I have a few tricks. One is to use a cordless reciprocating saw. You can cut the feet off in a couple of seconds, and you can also split the pelvis slightly quicker than you can sometimes do it with the knife. Use a wood blade with large teeth, rather than a metal blade with small teeth. It always seemed backwards to me, due to the hardness of bone, but I promise you it will work better. The saw is also invaluable for cutting skull or spine depending on how you want to harvest antlers.

Another way to cut off the feet is to use a large pair of bolt cutters, or a large pair of landscape "lopping" shears. They will both cut right on through the bone.

I have also had success with these. Once people get over the drama or hilarity, they generally see that it works well. This allows you to pull the last bit colon\rectum out of the deer before you start cleaning, allowing you to keep your meat clean. If you wait until you are "into" the animal, everything is so slick that it's hard to pull out cleanly by hand sometimes. This keeps the turds off your meat.

A good gut bucket is a must. As you figure things out, you will learn to take the animal apart in a way that allows you to drop everything in the bucket as you go. I have used everything from large storage totes, to galvanized trash cans. I think I like the galvanized steel trash cans the best, because they are taller, but they do tip over easier if you haul off the guts in the back of a truck. I use the firm edge of the trashcan like a saw horse when I am cutting the front feet off.

Obviously, your work area also makes a big difference. We run a small family hunting operation where we might clean 8 or 10 deer in a row on a decent day. We have a purpose built shed for cleaning. You don't have to have a dedicated building, but there's a few key things that help. These are a cheap hand-cranked boat winch for raising the gambrel. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the gambrel to fit the deer and your comfort zone. Also, it seems obvious, but one of the worst things is trying to skin one in shitty light. Most of the time it doesn't matter, but if you are skinning for a mount, you'd better be able to see. Running water is definitely a key element. Nothing sucks worse than getting a fatty deer that fouls all of your knives before you are done skinning. Being able to wash right there is a major luxury.

Otherwise, there are several videos on youtube that I have been pointing people to, to give them a refresher when I am not around to help. Just search a bit. They are not hard to find.

When you get good, you can clean one casually in about 10 minutes. This doesn't include boning out the quarters.

Sorry for the wall of text, but this is something that I am passionate about, having spent so much of my life doing it.

u/-AdamTheGreat- · 3 pointsr/AppleWatch

This happened to my S0. I used some Aluminum black on it. Couldn’t see it afterwards.

u/uncanneyvalley · 3 pointsr/amateurradio
u/scaldinghotcarl · 3 pointsr/ar15

It's a TekMat and they're pretty neat.
They make a bunch of different ones too.

u/400HPMustang · 3 pointsr/guns
u/Therealslb · 3 pointsr/ar15

Amazon. TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat

u/2lean4 · 3 pointsr/guns
u/akavino · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Your wallpapers made me think of this series of gun cleaning mats, which someone here was using one for their setups:

u/Cazmir09 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

also won't move around the way small mouse pads do. I have a Medium Razer Goliathus and that stupid thing keep slipping around cuz it doesn't have enough friction with the table. I'm going to look into getting one of these bigass mousepads. I think for the price this is the best bet as it seems many many people use it.

u/price1869 · 3 pointsr/ar15
u/GiornaGuirne · 3 pointsr/Gunsforsale

Yeah, seriously. Most everything on that list is cheaper or the same price if you already have Prime. Is OP having a clearance sale at their LGS or something? Can OP guarantee 2-day shipping?

EDIT: in case OP runs out



Bigger Remington 870

1911 #1

1911 #2











u/UrinalMint · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Big fan of these for gaming mousepads. Big enough to put your keyboard on to help anchor it.

u/GambitGamer · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually recommend getting a gun cleaning mat instead of these giant mousepads. They look badass, are cheaper, and are made of exactly the same material. Essentially, same product without the gaming markup.


u/gobralter · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

People seem to like using these

u/working_and_whatnot · 3 pointsr/1022

I've not tried it, but it looks like you may be able to make it work if you use this version of the tech sights but I don't know if the front sight post will be the right height to match the non-ruger rail on that stock set.

something like this might let you mount the front tech sight onto the stocks forward rail section at a more compatible height.

But again, I've not tried it.

u/rasetsunio · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Got it on Amazon.

u/__PROMETHEUS__ · 3 pointsr/battlestations
u/JE3146 · 3 pointsr/gundeals

UTG Universal Firearm Chamber Safety Flag, Orange, 6PCs/Set

Rotary13B1 Remove Before Firing Keychain - Neon Orange/Black - 5pcs

The prices go up and down. Looks more like $4 each right now. There's also various flags. Remove before PewPew. Empty Chamber, etc etc.

u/Zindel1 · 3 pointsr/reloading
u/goxxy · 3 pointsr/1022

A budget of $50 won't give you much to work with unless you're talking bargain basement.

Like this:

I am running a Primary Arms red dot and a UTG 3x flip up magnifier. Very happy with both.

u/hells_cowbells · 3 pointsr/guns

Then you'll probably love this stuff.

u/KleyPlays · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I've used Tru Oil on many necks. It is a great finish IMO. Easy to work with. Produces a very slick feel. I got a bottle of this some years ago and it has lasted quite a few projects.

The only downside is that it can be a bit labor intensive - especially if you want to get that mirror type shine. Subsequent coats stack on top of one another, whereas other finishes like Lacquer tend to burn into one another. So you should take your time with each coat. Try to get a uniform thickness. Spend some time sanding between each coat, using progressively finer grits as you move up. 5 to 10 coats would be minimal and produce a more dull finish. To get more of a gloss you need a lot of coats and a lot of patient high grit sanding.

u/eadsm · 2 pointsr/DIY

Any relation to Dane? JK. My brother and I made a gourd banjo last year. Your kit looks pretty straightforward. The only special tools we needed were a reamer and peg shaper, but I guess you won't. I don't think having removable glue is any advantage. If you break a piece, you can remove it with wood cutting tools. One tip on finishing though, apparently TRU-OIL is a popular finish for banjos. I used it for the first time on that project and I love it. Having worked with many wood finishes, it's now one of my favorites for ease of application, appearance, durability and ease of repair of scuffs and scratches. It's got linseed oil in it, but it actually builds up a clear coating like varnish after successive coats. I reccomend it highly. That or maybe Minwax wipe on poly. Shellac is probably the traditional finish, but if you haven't worked with it before it can be tricky to get good looking results.

Gourd banjo.


Wipe on poly. With any of those finishes, use #0000 steel wool between coats to get it glass smooth.

u/KireDalbo · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Not at all, here is the amazon link:
I bought mine off of eBay, I didn’t realize before I got the oil that it is apparently illegal to sell it in my state, so how I was actually able to get a hold of it, I have no idea.

u/Xspead101 · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

I have read a lot of good about Tru-Oil on other bow making forums. I am going to try it on my next bow and see how it does.

u/TheDude256 · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

I did use curly maple along with a TransFast Water-Soluble Powder Dye Stain (COLONIAL MAPLE #3277) finished with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Here is a link to the dye and for the tru-oil

u/christopherwrong · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Another option which you could think about is a hobo knife. Picture a silverware multitool that disassembles into three individual components. I've never liked the double sided spoon/forks, seems messy. The snowpeak seems like a great option if you want a true spork.

u/BaconCheeseBurger · 2 pointsr/knives

Kabar, 20 bucks. I have the same one made by Cabellas, its perfect for what you need.

u/cragar79 · 2 pointsr/knives

I've been googling here for a bit, this isn't it exactly, but is pretty similar (and an official Spyderco case, ooo^ohhh):

*Edit: Okay, apparently that is it exactly.

u/FartyPoopy · 2 pointsr/videos

I mean, easier said than done. It was a spear with a friggen go pro on it. But generally, a heart, lung, spine shot is ideal. If you rupture the lower intestines you can taint the meat. One of the reasons tools like the butt out exist to aid in field dressing after a clean kill. Stick up the butt, twist and pull the intestine out to not get shit all in the meat.

u/Jowitness · 2 pointsr/exjw
u/Solostampede · 2 pointsr/ar15

Did you use the buttout?

u/jmedlin · 2 pointsr/WTF

Kinda reminds me of the Butt Out (a terrifying implement used to field dress a deer)

u/PAULJR85 · 2 pointsr/ar15

Don't worry too much about the finish, you're going to use the rifle and the finish will take marks if you're doing it right.

If you really scratch it good (down to bare aluminum) get a bottle of [Aluminum Black](BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3 oz and all will be well.

u/OldManHenry · 2 pointsr/ar15

that's your castle nut. there are products like aluminum black if it bugs you.

Personally - after my first few scratches, I stopped caring. You can tell my rifle gets used and I think it looks good with a little character.

u/oscillatingobsession · 2 pointsr/gundeals

Agree, from a cost standpoint, you'd spend more on cerakote/anodizing a raw aluminum lower after machining.

For those that get an anodized 80% lower, this is an option for the exposed trigger pocket and holes after machining.

u/ExtremeFreedom · 2 pointsr/ar15 Turns aluminum black, will cover that up nicely without adding any thickness to the finish.

u/NikoTheAsian · 2 pointsr/Glocks

This stuff is pretty good. Worked for small scratches on my slide.

Or give it a good ol cerakote

u/OMGorilla · 2 pointsr/ar15

It's already anodized? Casey Birchwood Aluminum Black works great for small scuffs and scratches left by the jig or whatever. It won't, however, be able to blacken massive blank spots like the inside of the FCG area. I was surprised to learn that when I swabbed the inside of one and it came out looking horrendous. Absolutely awful looking.

Don't know why, but it worked really really well for the small exterior scratches that my jig plates left on it.

Past that, rattle can works fine in my experience. I specifically recommend Krylon NOW series Wrought Iron Flat Black (21211). Out of the handful of paints I've used, that dries well and color matches almost identically to all my upper receivers. But on raw aluminum, it will chip right off. Not entirely, but I've got some bare spots on the edges of my magwell and around my trigger/firing pin.

Amazon link to the birchwood casey

Again, that will only work on already anodized parts. You can't use it to anodize a blank part.

Their perma-blue works surprisingly well on steel, which I used to restore my grandpa's Astra 400 (because I didn't have the time or resources to set up nitre-bluing as it was a Christmas gift.

u/inform880 · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/hivbus · 2 pointsr/cigars

Keep a 65% Boveda in there, should be good to go. If you're going to be travelling/bumping around, might want to put some bubble wrap in.

u/bleedcmyk · 2 pointsr/mechmarket

Its probably a Tek Mat. They're for gun cleaning / assembly, but its literally the same material as a cloth mousepad.

Just search for TekMat on amazon and you should be able to find a ton of different guns.

u/Kacay · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Quite a few people also seem to use a TekMat.

Edit: Also /r/askbattlestations

u/dandjcro · 2 pointsr/battlestations

TekMat - They were popular on reddit awhile ago.

u/aje14700 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Where, not why. I know why, that's why I want one too, plus I actually could use it for it's original purpose, stripping an AR-15. But a quick google search answered my question.

u/ethics- · 2 pointsr/guns

You can usually just get them on Amazon. Seems like they're currently OOS, like many other online retailers.

Here's the link, for what its worth.

u/dbinkerd · 2 pointsr/ar15

It is something like this (not sure if it is the exact one, but similar enough).

u/YamSs · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Not a mousepad as far as I understand. You can use it as one if you like tough.

u/austin713 · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/admiralnorman · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Had it. It was okay. I highly prefer a TekMat for a similar price.

$11 - Slightly smaller - 1911 handgun

$20 - Full keyboard size - AR15 Rifle

Edit - They also make those for many other guns. I have the MP-5 at work and the Desert eagle at home.

u/Helevitia · 2 pointsr/ar15

haha, I was wondering if somebody would ask about that.

Here you go.

Also, they sell gun mats, too.

AR15 Mat.

I prefer the computer mat because it's huge! But that is the downside as well, takes up a lot of space.

u/khanhd92 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The mousepad is actually a gun cleaning mat from Tekmat. They come in a variety of sizes depending on the type of gun blueprint that you choose. I also recommend these speakers if you can find them on craiglist or a yard sale. You just need to do a crossover upgrade (kits and tutorials are available with a little Googling) and they will blow any other bookshelf speakers with a MUCH higher price range out of the water.

Here's a link to the AR15 mat:

u/MaximCannon · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Don't have one myself but have heard some people love using these gun cleaning mats as mouse pads, the graphics on them are super cool plus they're big enough to cover under your keyboard and mouse!

u/b1u3 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview
u/Tiffiter · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get a TekMat. They are gun cleaning pats, but they work perfectly as mouse pads. They have a large and small size - rifle vs pistol. e.g. link here

I've had one for 6mo now and loving it more than any mouse pad I've ever had. Cheaper too.

u/Azhain · 2 pointsr/battlestations

It's a gun cleaning mat, but it has the exact same texture and feel of a high quality mouse pad.

u/qhp · 2 pointsr/ak47

The one he has is a TekMat, the one on Amazon is not. Get a TekMat, if you can, they're really nice.

u/Threeleggedchicken · 2 pointsr/guns

TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat with AK-47 Imprint, Black, ,

u/reifier · 2 pointsr/dogecoin

Do you carry tek mats? They double as really cool keyboard/mousepad/playmats


u/SilverManGold · 2 pointsr/Silverbugs

Thanks! It's a TekMat. Great for disassembling guns, as a giant keyboard/mouse pad and as I've recently discovered - stacking silver on.

u/tb21666 · 2 pointsr/Waxpen

Nice. Reminds me of a shotgun shell box.

u/Virisenox_ · 2 pointsr/flashlight
u/olorinii · 2 pointsr/guns

Amazon, Midwayusa, Cheaperthandirt. Lots of places sell them and they are nice and cheap. Like the other reply already stated they are called chamber flags.

u/Dumplati · 2 pointsr/canadaguns

Thanks for the help.

Went with the following.

BLACKHAWK! Sportster Range Bag, Black

3 Trigger Locks

Chamber Flags


Stapler Staples

Cheap Earplugs

Cleaning Kit Should I also get a collapsible one? Was unable to find one on Amazon.

Eye Protection

Primary Ear Protection

Anything I missed?
[Secondary Ear Protection] ( Incase my main ones fail, or I have a guest.

u/Mouseater1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

If you plan on loading a few of them, you may want to check out the frankford arsenal case prep deluxe. It has a WFT style of trimmer on it along with all the other case prep things you would usually need.

u/random157294683 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I'm seriously considering a Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Case Prep and Trim Center. It looks like a very flexible and fast trimming platform.

Edit: Here it is on Amazon for $143.21

u/fromplsnerf · 2 pointsr/guns

Yep I'm going to pick this up next Friday

vortex strikefire II

u/Groundstain · 2 pointsr/ar15
u/TheAsianTroll · 2 pointsr/airsoftmarket

Assuming no one sells you one, there's a pretty good one on Amazon: UTG 3X Magnifier with Flip-to-side QD Mount, W/E Adjustable

I have this one myself and its sturdy and well built, especially for the price

u/StavingBordom · 2 pointsr/ar15

I have the ACSS Reticle Holosun, and I love it! If you end up getting the ACSS Reticle model, I would recommend getting a magnifier (3x or 4x) in order to practically use the lower dots.
I bought this cheap magnifier and put it behind it:

The eye relief is not great (1.5" to 2") but it works pretty well for a more budget build.

u/Midniteoyl · 2 pointsr/ar15

Lines up with the SPARC 1 I have on the AR out of the box.

u/RezReddit · 2 pointsr/ar15

UTG here is a link the the product. I know, I know, Amazon products, especially optics, on guns and all that. Had to keep my wallet intact.

u/cawpin · 2 pointsr/reloading

>I went to the Alliant site to look up the recipes, and it only gives me data for Speer bullets. Can I just use the recipe for the 115gr Speers, but use Rainier?

Do you have a reloading manual? If not, stop. Buy a reloading manual and read the introduction(s) and information in it.

I would suggest the Lyman 50th to start.

u/geetarzrkool · 1 pointr/Guitar

You don't need to buy the exact same kit. Their fingerborad oil is just their own mix of Tru-oil, which should be a lot easier to find and cost less. You can also use Linseed oil, which works just as well.

As for cleaning, just use an old toothbrush with some warm water to lightly scrub the fingerboard. You can even use a small amount of a mild de-greaser like Windex, Simple Green. Wipe away the warm water/cleaner with a clean rag or paper towel. Once clean, let it dry for about 10-20 minutes, apply a drop of Tru-oil to each fret, rub it in thoroughly let it sit for another 10-20 minutes, then wipe away any excess.

u/CatOnProzac · 1 pointr/guitarporn
u/TBatWork · 1 pointr/TwoXChromosomes

There are cloth cleaning patches for firearms. The procedure would be to assemble a cleaning rod, cut the patch to the appropriate size, fix the patch to the rod and swab out the barrel (usually disassembled and removed from the firearm) after spraying some cleaner through it. If the patch comes out especially dirty, you cut a new patch and repeat until its clean. The process can be a bit labor intensive if the gun is old or frequently used, or if the gun has a large bore and requires a lot of swabbing.

A tampon can be inserted into the firearm's barrel and pushed through with the rod a few times to the same effect. There are products called 'bore snakes' that do the same thing and are reusable. It's a bit quicker, but maybe not as thorough. I'll use this method if I feel like I don't have the time to dedicate to cleaning, or I have a lot of cleaning to do. It's not as cost effective either, but the difference is a matter of pennies since I bought pharmacy brands that made it to the clearance bin. Sure, my romantic interest at the time had a small complaint about how uncomfortable they were compared to her brand, but they're for me.

u/The_Rum_Pirate · 1 pointr/SigSauer

I have a bore snake for every caliber I own, they are great! OP this is what you want for cleaning:

u/curzyk · 1 pointr/guns

Your list is fairly complete to me. Here are a few thoughts:

  • You might consider adding ear plugs under the ear muffs, especially if you go to an indoor range.

  • A bore snake, or similar tool, is very useful for quickly cleaning the barrel.

  • If you plan to do any dry fire practice, you'll need snap caps.

  • Otherwise, consider possible training classes?

  • Eventually you'll want additional magazines.
u/dan_232 · 1 pointr/guns

Should pulling a bore snake through the barrel be difficult? I have a Ruger LCP Custom (.380) and purchased the pistol .380 bore snake and it took all of the strength I had to pull it through the barrel when I was cleaning it.

u/chasetase · 1 pointr/CampingGear
u/LGBTerrific · 1 pointr/Lightbulb

Check out this hobo knife - each piece (spoon, knife, fork) all separate into individual utensils.

u/sonnyclips · 1 pointr/EDC

If you're on the road you need shit that is all utility. I've put together a list that I think fits that bill. No Kershaw Cryo fashion knives here. I love a good looking blade but if you pull that out and lay it next to you far from being threatening someone will probably just steal it.

You need to buy a hobo knife to be a proper hobo.

For a self defense blade I would look at the Cold Steel GI Tanto. To be honest it is best used as a deterrent, it is menacing enough that it should serve that purpose. It's tough steel too so you can use it to pry and chop too. Prepping firewood with it by batoning is going to be easy.

A coarse diamond sharpening key chain is also nice to have.

Here is a waterproof jacket for $11 from Eddie Bauer.

Some inexpensive dry stuff sacks would be good too.

A stainless water bottle that you can also use for cooking is good too.

u/LandlockedPirate · 1 pointr/VEDC

I hate to admit it, but this is one of my most used VEDC items.

u/Zahalia · 1 pointr/BurningMan

I hadn't heard of it until a burner friend insisted that I'd love the experience. I couldn't go with him that year but having never travelled overseas I resolved that this was going to be the first adventure.

Between the camp and forums and website and email exchanges, it was information overload for a noob. The support of our burner mate and others at information nights was indispensable. Highly recommend; wish I'd participated more.

Coming from Australia, we were scared of being unprepared. We spent way too much time and money and fretting in what became a Walmart tour of America. Three trolleys of alcohol seemed like a good idea at the time?!

Thankfully we were able to donate our excesses to the camp for future use, otherwise I would have felt very wasteful and contrary to the values of the event.

The fact that I had to buy so much stuff made me feel guilty but I've got my camping setup perfect now. One of my most useful purchases was one of these hobo tools:
I've used it a lot since getting home too. Makes you think about all the stuff at home and how little you really need it.

When people ask me about Burning Man I don't tell them about the art or the partying, I kinda worry that they'll think it's a big piss-up and not contribute to the event. Besides, the most culturally shocking thing for me was people's attitude to the land - holy shit, people said thank you to one another for picking up garbage! That's cool.

I agree with the people who BM was an emotional rollercoaster. It brought out a lot of hurt between my partner and I, and a lot of travelling tension amongst friends. I felt the most alone I've ever been, and the most loved. Goddamn, did I meet some beautiful strangers. :)

Go with an open mind, and don't expect to see the same things or meet a particular kind of person.. be them, be the person you've always wanted to meet.

Everything at BM is there because of amazing, gorgeous, loving, talented people who make that fucking desert into a city and if you give to BM, you'll get so much more out of the experience.

u/QuickPlantains · 1 pointr/knives

I use this and I like it. Here's the smaller version:

u/Ripcord83 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

In a [Spyderco SP2 SpyderPac] (Spyderco Spyderpac Small SP2 I’m starting to run out of room though.

u/HappyDonut · 1 pointr/knives

What LockoutTagout said.

I used to display my collection by buying those cheap little desk drawers, I'd line them with that rubber carpet pads .

Now I use spyderco's spyderpacs. I hang them up on nails using the few loops that the pacs have. Then I just place the knives inside. Nice little wall decoration. :)

u/Knife_Guide · 1 pointr/knifeclub
u/RealAvid · 1 pointr/Archery

I second the butt out tool. Surprised that it isn't mentioned here more. Now I can't imagine gutting without one. Keep it in your bag in a big ziploc bag. Then it's the first thing you do. It's easy to do. Basically you're just pulling the entire rectum out of the animal so you don't have to worry about it when you're dressing. It's great. It's going to get a little nasty, so you just put it back in the bag.

Also - no one has really talked about full length field dressing gloves. They make HUGE difference. You're covered all the way up to your shoulder. They make it a lot easier to focus on what you actually need to be doing instead of focusing on how you don't like how it feels. The Vicks Vapor rub is a great tip too. I don't use it anymore but it was a life saver when my Dad said, "Ok, it's time for you to start doing this yourself." I actually had Vicks in a contact case in my pack ready to go because I knew that one year soon he'd say that.

Happy to see how supportive this discussion is. Hunters don't talk about it much and you get a lot of man up nonsense when the topic comes up. The truth is that we all went through it and most of us were surprised at how nasty it was when we actually had to get in there vs. watching our fathers or mothers do it. Every meat eater should have to dress an animal at least once in their life in my opinion.

u/zgf2022 · 1 pointr/funny

Actually from what I hear they are handy.

The object in question

u/sharkbaitoohaha · 1 pointr/Hunting
u/Slappy_MC_Garglenutz · 1 pointr/shittyadvice
u/Bestclamchower · 1 pointr/bjj
u/kim_so_il · 1 pointr/santashelpers

See if he has one of these.

I swear it takes longer to get the butthole out than the rest of the process combined.

u/Jackofalltrades87 · 1 pointr/pics

I’m a hunter, and I’ve seen these devices that you insert into a dead deer’s anus, then snatch it out so the asshole turns inside out. I think I’m cases of violent rape, this should be the rapists punishment. Insert that tool in his asshole, then snatch it out like you’re trying to crank a chainsaw.

u/Pastordan23 · 1 pointr/WTF

You'll need one of these.

u/dukeface13 · 1 pointr/flashlight

Never tried it personally, but maybe something like this would work well for you.

u/SnakeDoctor00 · 1 pointr/guns
u/RC-1207Sev · 1 pointr/NFA

Probably Aluminum Black.

u/Havokk · 1 pointr/gundeals

Aluminum does not rust...also if you scratch the finish off the lower you can use this to touch it up.

how it looks and works

These lowers are also back in stock and 39.99 each with 9 bucks shipping

u/kinkingpumpkin · 1 pointr/ftm

link to the amazon page

edit: the fact that the thumbnail is of my mug is kinda unfortunate - ugh imgur

u/acemetrical · 1 pointr/hockeyplayers

I use this waterproof container. Keeps everything dry (particularly band-aids) and doesn't crush under gear. Perfect.

u/pokerd · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! It's a TekMat - though I got mine on Amazon for the free shipping. I'm probably going to get the AR-15 one next so I can fit my mouse on there as well.

And nice choice with the XD9SC :D I'm a big fan of the Springfield lineup, and am now considering either an XD-S or 1911 of some variety for my next purchase. That probably won't be for awhile though with my mech KB habit.

u/xblackdog · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

the one in the second link is a Tekmat for cleaning weapons, but it's made of the same stuff mousepads are.

u/krakissi · 1 pointr/MouseReview

A lot of people who are really into big mouse pads will get these AR-15 Cleaning Mats. It's longer than 28 inches, but you could cut it shorter. Why the length constraint, just desk space?

u/SovereignAxe · 1 pointr/guns
u/DiabeetusMan · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The first one. Cheap-ish, big, looks neat


u/Fjiord · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I would like to know how different is this mouse mat compared to a gun mat. Have been wanting to get a huge mouse mat for a while.

u/FreddyFuego · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Look into TekMat, they make cleaning mats for guns but the material they use is the same as all the HQ mouse pads around for a much cheaper price. I use this one and love it, plenty of room and never slides around on my desk.

u/Red_1977 · 1 pointr/canadaguns

A friend got it for me.

I found an AR 15 one after a quick google search on

I'm sure they have the gun you want there somewhere

u/shoangore · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I use Tekmat's bench mats - originally intended for cleaning long guns as it has exploded views of the guns, but I use one at work and one at home- I LOVE them. They're cheaper than the computer branded stuff (corsair and razer carry them but for a much higher price) at around $20-22 average. Way more than enough space for keyboard, mouse and HOTAS setup to all fit comfortably on it.


Not to mention they look awesome.

Slightly cheaper

u/tally_in_da_houise · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards


12" x 36" size

u/birdpix · 1 pointr/FLMedicalTrees

The one I'm using is similar, and most definitely does not kill MJ smells from leaking out. The one I'm using is
but I think I need full water PROOF over water resistant. Looking at the metal ones as they claim fully sealed air/water proof. Maybe they'll be on black Friday sales... :-)

u/RmJack · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

My brother bought one of these(TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat with AK-47 Imprint), if that's your thing, they make great mouse pads and roughly the same price, just a bit thicker and 12" instead of 18". They also make ones with other popular firearm models.

u/RobotMalcolmX · 1 pointr/mechmarket
u/TyL3nc · 1 pointr/battlestations

Thanks, It's a gun cleaning mat I ordered from amazon.
Saw someone else on here with one and I had to have it hah

u/FlyingLizard45 · 1 pointr/ak47
u/browniebiznatch · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Probably not. Something like this would though.

u/eleventy_six · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Shotgun shell boxes like this one work really well.

u/s33plusplus · 1 pointr/guns

If the rifle has an 11mm dovetail rail on it, that should be fine on a .22lr. I've stuck those on my spring-piston airguns while waiting on a proper set of scope rings and they held on just fine. Airguns believe it or not are notorious for wrecking optics with the bucking recoil the piston produces.

Edit: Whoops, I thought you were talking about these little guys, they sit flush in the weaver mount and don't add height to the optic you're mounting.

u/drzenitram · 1 pointr/airguns

I got these for my Marauder and they work well.

u/wimpanzee · 1 pointr/airguns

You want these.
I've got mine to clamp a truglo 2x42 dot sight onto my PP700S-A.

u/BlindRob · 1 pointr/titanfall
u/mkmecon29 · 1 pointr/Gunsforsale
u/nathanrosspowell · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks a lot :)

TekMat is the mouse pad. They are for assembling guns on, but many people use them on their desks.

u/gaius49 · 1 pointr/reloading

Are you sure you really want a manual one? This one has been good to 0.001" in my experience... and its not a carpel tunnel machine.

u/H00t1e · 1 pointr/reloading

I just got this to start loading 308.

Works like a charm and makes everything else very fast. It only works with necked cases however. But it takes standard thread sizes and is able to do any caliber out of the box no extra pilots or accessories needed.

I did however order a primer reamer and uniformer for it also

u/bkelley · 1 pointr/ar15

I love my Vortex Strikefire 2. After finding zero it was dealing out solid groups for me at 75 yards standing. Paired with a good set of BUIS and you'd be ready to go. Primary Arms seems to be the gold standard for bang for your buck optics. Their 4-14x44 is probably the route I'm gonna go for my 6.5grendel build.

u/Hero_matt · 1 pointr/canadaguns

Vortex SF-BR-503 Strikefire II Red Dot Sight

u/Pizza_Butt27 · 1 pointr/guns

Love the burnt bronze cerokote. Are you going to get an optic? I just got a great deal on a Vortex Strikefire II on Amazon. I'm a big fan of Vortex

Vortex Optics SF-BR-503 Strikefire II Red Dot Sight

u/Warbeetle · 1 pointr/ar15

Just get the m-lok stud. it'll mount directly to your hand guard in any spot you want. if you get a pic rail stud you'll have an extra piece and it'll look goofy. It'll be sling attached to pic rail sling stud attached to pic rail m-lok section attached to handguard vs sling attached to m-lok stud attached to handguard.

EDIT: JL Billet has a cheaper one that I use on my AR-10 but the hole is not perfectly circular which I don't love.

u/TubeMeister · 1 pointr/1022

Here are a few options that should fit the M-LOK slots at the front end of the rifle depending on what type of sling you are using:



Standard Swivel (sold here as a bipod mount, but it should still allow sling attachement)

u/Brazen-Badger · 1 pointr/GunPorn

Beautiful build. Not sure if you're looking for suggestions, but if you are, I'd suggest taking a look at one of these. I was dong the same with an m-lok -> Picatinny rail -> bipod adapter ->bipod, and one of these things really clears it up and makes the bipod fit more flush onto the rail itself and it just looked "cleaner".

How's she shoot?

u/hayyoyou · 1 pointr/ar15

Gathered/assembled most of the parts for my long(er) range build. Parts list below. I'm leaning towards the Primary Arms FFP 4-14x based upon all of the reviews I have seen. Can someone convince me otherwise? I like the SWFA fixed magnification options for their quality and price, but I think I want something with variable magnification. As you can see from my other projects, I've never dropped serious money on optics (Bushnell TRS-25 & Bushnell 1-4x), so I'd love to stay in the sub $400 price range for a scope. Will be shooting at <500 yards, but would like some good/appropriate magnification. I know I could probably get away with a 3-9x, but I would love a little more power than that.

Parts List:

  • DSA AR15/ZM4 A2 stock recoil buffer
  • DSA AR15/ZM4 standard rifle length recoil spring
  • DSA AR15/ZM4 alloy charging handle assembly complete w/latch
  • DSA AR15/ZM4 standard rifle length receiver extension
  • ALG 15" M-LOK Ergonomic Modular Rail
  • AIM AR/M16 .223/5.56 9310 MPI BDG Bolt Carrier Group
  • Faxon 18" 5.56/.223 Caliber Nitride 4150 CMV Steel AR Barrel
  • Amazon Model 4/15 .223 1/2x28 Competition Short Break
  • Anderson Stripped A3 Upper Receiver
  • Magpul MOE Rifle Stock – Black MAG404-BLK
  • PSA AR15 Forward Assist Assembly
  • PSA AR15 Ejection Port Cover Assembly

    Parts on the way:


  • Magpul M-LOK Bipod Mount

  • Harris 6"-9" Bipod

    Need to buy:

  • Lower (thanks Shooter123456)

  • Scope

u/cakan4444 · 1 pointr/gundeals

I mean, I get it's pretty hard to make profitable margins and even try to compete with Amazon for a lot of stuff but $56 shipped on Amazon for the magnifier makes it hard to buy on a website I've never heard of.

u/darkbug · 1 pointr/ar15

Looks like amazon sells it.

u/DragonCenturion · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman, Hornady, and Lee are what I use.
And nominally same weight bullets use the same powder charge.

u/frito123 · 1 pointr/reloading

I've used that press. It works fine. It has the advantage that it is portable and you can use it anywhere. That die set works as well. The fact that you list hollow point bullets implies you intend to use the loaded rounds for defensive purposes. Many reloaders shy away from making their own defensive rounds due to the small chance a district attorney may feel it is a sign of premeditation. That's a personal decision. The ones you picked will work. The Winchester primers you picked work fine. Unique is a common powder, but I don't remember the size scoop that comes with the die. The die set comes with some reloading data and will tell you a list of powders.

What you've listed is enough to get you started. Eventually you'll want to add a powder measure. This one would do the trick. Eventually you'll want a reloading manual like this one.

u/NVdustytrail · 1 pointr/reloading

It does, read under "features and details"

u/OGIVE · 1 pointr/reloading

It is not expensive. It is less than a pound of powder or box of primers.

u/bstock · 0 pointsr/battlestations

You can also use gun cleaning mats, I've used this one since 2015 and it doesn't even look very worn.

u/Spacemarine658 · 0 pointsr/airsoft

I've used this one for a while on a red dot no issues

UTG 3X Magnifier with Flip-to-side QD Mount, W/E Adjustable

u/zonianjohn · -1 pointsr/ar15