Best industrial magnets according to redditors
We found 252 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial magnets. We ranked the 108 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 252 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial magnets. We ranked the 108 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Leaving this here for completely innocuous reasons
something like this
Ahh I've seen this before, it's quite an easy fix. It's understandable that a rookie like you wouldn't know what to do.
Just follow these easy steps.
Hope this all works for you! Best of luck brethren
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XMBQLP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iqcsvZ9WAftGi
About $20 it looks like.
I found some for $9 on Amazon This would have been cool to see in science class.
And that is why I put mine on magnets.
Flexible Magnet Sheet With Adhesive, 0.030" Thick, 12" Wide, 24" Length (1 sheet rolled inside tube) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I did something similar, but instead just stuck the magnets on the inside of the metal lid, which needs no glue.
Edit: BTW I chose these magnets.
Magnets my man, magnets.
Get some Neodymium magnets and some GoPro stickies and you can mount just about anything
Try magnetic wall sheets...one sec, let me find a link
Wall26 24"x 60" (2 by 5 feet) .30mil Super Strong Flexible Magnet Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OQQ-BbXWGZVQ0
Amazon, of course! I actually emailed the company and 405 lb are the strongest they make :(
well i first wanna thank TheMagistrate he made this post about this a month ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/Steelbooks/comments/9qjdb0/about_13rd_of_my_collection_running_out_of_wall/
ive been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQ048EQ/
using this i have been cutting it in 5 x 4.75 squares and you can get 55 out of each roll that way. i also feel like you could get away with making them smaller. I however personally feel that they are going to be more secure the way i did it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YVJ1XW/ and i use about 5 of these to mount them on the wall.
I'm more likely to leave most anything lying around versus putting it back in a box, especially if it's a high-quantity cheap thing like bobby pins. As a result they're just everywhere. If all I had to do was hold up the 5 I used that day to a magnetic strip on the wall/inside of the medicine cabinet that I have to open anyway, I'd be more likely to "put them away".
For some reason I can't be bothered to open/close an altoids tin for them and it looks more untidy (for me) to just leave one open with things spilling out of it. There are all-acrylic transparent cosmetics drawers available but unless I'm at Goodwill they cost more than I'm willing to spend.
If you're into sticking just about everything onto magnetic surfaces (spices on the inside of cupboard doors, memos + magnets on a strip by the front door, upright office inbox things on the side of the fridge next to the sink for dish brushes, medicine reminder boxes on the wall next to the bed) then it's more economical to buy a pack/long strip of them for $15 like this versus some specialty things like results for "cosmetics drawer organizer".
You can use things like tackle boxes or probably come up with all kinds of alternatives but if we assume that I'm not very clever or creative or punctual or organized then this is a neat-but-not-life-changing tip.
Edit: Also I know I gave you amazon links but honestly I'm in a weird living situation where my elderly Chinese landlady gets my packages delivered to her front door since UPS/USPS can't or won't deliver to my backyard apartment and I feel really rude/intrusive having her need to be a middleman for dumb little packages, like $4 adhesive cable clips or heavy things like a vertical bike rack, so I don't like to order things that frequently despite having prime. So while some of the organizers are $12 on amazon, they're often marked up 160% at physical stores that might not price-match. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
It's super easy!
Just take two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YVJ1XW/
Cut a 3"x3" square out of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQ048EQ/
Stick the adhesive strips to the magnetic square, then to the wall!
​
Measuring out spacing on the wall was the hardest part. I'm able to mount almost 100 steelbooks for about $35.
Ten bucks and you can have one too! Magnetic Viewing Film
Don't know what kind of "stud finder" you are using. But it is always best not to over complicate this. Get a good, strong rare earth magnet. Ideally one with a hole in it like this: https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Neodymium-Magnet-Countersunk/dp/B008H40U10
Tie a couple of feet of string on it. Hold the string end against the wall and swing the magnet like a pendulum. Move it around. Once you find a nail or screw go vertically from there. Those are your studs.
Every sheet of drywall has some fasteners. At least a few on every stud. They are made out of ferrous metal. Even lath and plaster walls have nails fastening the lath to the studs. There may be good reasons to have the fancy electronic gadget stud finders. But magnets work and they never need fresh batteries to do it.
magnets bruh
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US
Copied from the YouTube video
Couldn't find a nice iPad kneeboard and was thinking of DIY. Would a magnetic mount on a kneeboard disturb the magnetic compass? (i.e. with magnets like those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 3 on the kneeboard, 3 on an ipad case, and you got yourself a nice magnetic holder).
This is exactly what I bought. If you happen to be near Burbank I have a ton of extra I would like to give away. Edit: I adhered the Carpool stickers and the backing paper to the sticky side of the magnet sheet. This way, if I have to I can unstick the carpool sticker and place them on the car though I really hope it doesn’t come to that.
You can, in a 2D-plane.
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GCJD3XAJ6ZZP502H7QW9
pricy! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPJ8GPP/ref=emc_b_5_t
Heavy-Duty Retrieving and Holding Magnet, 5" Length, 2" Width, 1" Height with Eyebolt, Nut, and Magnetic Shields, 150 Pounds Pull, 1 each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CP2PG0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Shh8wbCAMQ5KG
This is the one I use. You have to remember though, you're not getting a full contact (all 150lbs of pull) on anything you grab, unless you get full flat contact. That being said, I've never had problems removing items from this magnet
n52 one inch cube
^ get this it's only 8$ and comes in 2 days. It Can take off every tag except the ones that need a hook. It's very strong, put it on my fridge and I had to get it off with a fork.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DNFP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519235615&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1x1+n52+neodymium+magnet
If you stick some neodymium magnets to your bike (I put 2 on my left pedal) you'll be able to trigger the sensor! :)
Also has the advantage of allowing you to trigger a green light on the road where there are the embedded wires.
I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084UASJQ/
Edit: Or maybe not... http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/2hirgt/do_any_of_you_regularly_take_your_bike_places/ckt4py0
Found it.
I've had mixed results with the adhesives on those. I would suggest supplementing with a bit of super glue/epoxy.
Also, depending on what OP is making it might be a good idea to go for bigger magnet sheets that can be cut down to size. It's bit more budget conscious and you can make odd shapes if necessary.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1404232861&sr=1-1&keywords=magnet+sheet
> So I lost a $250+ Benchmade Osborne carbon fiber knife in the lake about 1 month after I got it.
Sorry. I got nothing for you. Except for a Amazon link; save up your change. ;p
-----
ETA: Storytime: Redditor loses rifle in pond in tragic boating accident. With help of a magnet, perseverance and luck finds his rifle.
Moral of the story: The handle is carbon-fiber and non-magnetic. The liners and blade are steel, and will stick to a magnet.
I did this
http://www.overclock.net/t/1515948/official-thermaltake-core-v1-owners-club/20#post_22968787
Get a magnet sheet. You can find it stationery shops, it was €5 for 5 here, standard A4 format.
Cut it out (measure the are you want to cover ofc) and use some regular stockings/pantyhose as the filter. Tape it to the magnet sheet... and that's it.
Alternatively you can buy magnetic tape at DIY store. Like this one
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Magnetic-1-Inch-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI
It's like regular tape but the non-sticky side is magnet. You can make a square out from the tape and put the stockings on it and then cover it (the tape side) with some regular tape. Or with another layer of magnetic tape. Then you have magnet on both side tho it doesn't really matter imo.
Master Magnetics Magnet Sheet | Flexible Magnet Sheet with Adhesive, 12" Wide, 24" Long | 8504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X36YBbA44AEQX
sure no problem.
CMS Magnetics® 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film on Amazon UK
Found
Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011
there is an amazon link
got this sucker for $29
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DVURTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can find a machine screw that fits flush through it as well at any hardware store.
This 250lb comes with an eye hook:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DVURH4/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_of_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J1WEJEA3TXBA4H8383YX
Or this 400lb where you'll need to purchase an eyehook and bolt separately:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DVURTC/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S43XBWJ4GGNPDDA4JW2S&dpPl=1&dpID=61gJ5uuFOuL
Brute 350 pound on an anchor rope.
The magnet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JK20IR8
The rope: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QU96OA
I used these ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Primal-Horizon-Magnets-16-50/dp/B00TGDMPDW
I attached them to the bases using green stuff as described here https://www.reddit.com/r/ageofsigmar/comments/cqank2/i_built_a_magnetic_carry_case_using_40_of/ewvahtd?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x
Need one of dem magnets too.
https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Retrieving-Holding-Eyebolt-Magnetic/dp/B000CP2PG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462897624&sr=8-2&keywords=large+magnet
I checked the obvious solution not really expecting success, but there it is!
https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1500978176&sr=1-5&keywords=n52
same force, a little bit smaller
Files available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2454056
Magnets I used, I've had them forever
LED strip I used (IP65 Daylight)
Remote for LEDs
The supports are 7.25"x0.5" pine dowel.
I printed in ABS so I could use acetone to weld the parts together. If I wasn't using ABS I might have designed the connections between the parts a LOT better. For now acetone and some clamping left me with a solid ring.
I painted the whole ring black afterwards to hide the acetone smoothing and blend it all together.
I had to wing the dimensions as I have no idea the size of other surrounds. I just went with a size that seemed right and a distance from the board that seemed right. I 'aimed' the LEDs to converge a few inches off the board.
Try an N52 grade neodymium magnet. Be careful as hell with it though, they don't call the highest grade of rare earth magnets 'permanent magnets' for nothing.
I use primal horizon - I have seen it in multiple shops. Package looks like link below (comes in several sizes). It's really simple - buy a drill bit of the same size (primal horizon sells those too) and stick the magnet in there. Biggest thing is don't glue them the wrong way around - easy to avoid by leaving them stacked while you work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGDMPDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TdBzCb19J0546
I'm looking at these which are a nice size, bigger than a quarter. They seem pretty powerful, so I'm thinking I may not need to drill into the bottom and there might be other ways of disguising the tiles.
I may also scrap the tile-search part and just have the puzzle be more focused on finding the board + planchette and then decoding the message.
Based on my setup, you need;
Decent thermometer
Auto Siphon & tubing
hydrometer
wine/beer thief
carboy or bucket for fermenting + rubber stopper & blowoff tube
bottling bucket w/ spigot
bottling wand
bottle capper + bottles & caps
I recommend 10 gallon kettle, I regret getting only 8 gal.
mesh brew bag sized to fit your kettle. Useful for both BIAB and batch sparge brewing.
Optional but very useful;
10 gallon mash tun (square or round cooler + steel braid/false bottom + brass valve) I regret only getting a 5 gallon. Easy home depot built.
DIY stirplate using adjustable computer fan + magnets + stir bar and a flask (I pull it off with a 1 gallon glass jug)
vinator
Fermentation chamber with temp controller!
I suggest getting these items Silver Sculpey Get one pack for each bullet splash you want to have.
Then get these. Make sure you have two magnets or each bullet splash.
Then I'd make one claw arm not two as it's a pain to go without two hands. To make the claw I'd grab some foam board.
Get some Super glue or hot glue.
Silver paint that matches the baked shade of the clay.
some blue paint that matches your cop uniform.
Start with the clay, open it and save the wrapper- shape the stuff into dishes with a entry hole or deep point. From the center of each dish make spirals that come out - You could even make the clay into a long snake and coil it around and around to make your dishes. Then make an indent to place one of your magnets flush into the base and make it 10% deeper and wider. Follow the instructions and bake it. Grab super glue and attach one magnet to the dish and the other threw your cop uniform.
The arm is gonna be a bit harder. You want to cut out some shapes from the foam core and then glue it with some superglue or hot glue. I'd start off with cutting two rectangles about as wide as your forearm and about 10 -12 inches longer . the remainder I would cut into long right triangles that are as long as the long piece. This should help make a box to fit your arm in, continue to cut and glue additional pieces to make your hooks. Paint the same color as your putty dishes and you should be done. To help with the details- blend your silver paint into your clothing by matching a blue of the uniform into the splashes and arm the transition into the silver.
This isn't X-Rays, it's magnetic viewing film. You can buy it on amazon for around $10 here
Hot glue a couple of heavy duty earth magnets (like these https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-N52-Super-Strong/dp/B01LYU3SX8 )on the back and a piece of scrap metal on the wall?
Modern MRI magnets are coils of superconducting wire that are bathed in liquid helium... that's... a lot more trouble than it's worth going through here.
Though I guess you could find one of those old several ton permanent magnets they used to use (or sometimes use in those shittier "open MRI" machines). Even if you could get someone to sell it to you, expect a price tag in the tens of thousands range - the salvage price of the metal is already high enough up there, and transporting it is going to be an absolute bitch.
You'd be better off buying one of those heavy neodymium magnets from Amazon or eBay that have a several hundred pound load capacity. This guy is advertised at 1700lbs.
And I wouldn't even advise that, since high power magnets of any shape or size are actually fairly dangerous just to have lying around and are going to be shit at pulling nails since, you know, they're magnets and not the Magneto from the X-Men or whatever you're expecting to happen here. A magnetic nail puller would need to have an exceptionally high field strength in a very small area, which practically precludes permanent magnets and would require high enough currents to be both lethally dangerous and extremely awkward to maneuver around.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OQQ-BbXWGZVQ0
I bought some a while back to use with motors
CMS MAGNETICS 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Viewing Film, See Magnetic Field with this Magic Film to Learn Magnetism. Applicable for All Kinds of Magnets Including Neodymium Magnets, Lots of Fun! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bD2yCbYNJ2P6P
This one lifts 400 lbs and costs $30.
It's an infinity table with some wood and a bottle opener on it.
On the back of the wood you can take a forstner bit the size of a rare earth magnet and drill a hole the size of the magnet.
Use two part epoxy to secure the magnet in place and there ya go.
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Magnetic-1-Inch-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI/ref=zg_bs_1265131011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F83PZ81PXYJYRYWETFVR
I put 4 squares in each corner, it holds pretty well. Haven't had one fall yet.
I'm of a similar mind; I have two major magnets I carry, a 173 and 405 pound lifts. Personally, I started with the 173, because it was cheap, but as others have said, sub-200 can be a little anemic depending on what you find.
Thus, I upgraded to the 405. What I find myself doing regularly is using the 173 more often because it's smaller and more maneuverable, and whipping out the 405 when I find something I'm slipping off of.
The magnets I have:
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Holding-Neodymium-Eyebolt/dp/B01GZDNVQ0/ref=pd_sim_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9ZPMWKNZED7074CY8PZT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA?psc=1
Would this be a good substitute? https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481765385&sr=8-1&keywords=n52#customerReviews
$9 https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/
I have no knowledge of which of these are "the good stuff" but this will give you an idea of what i mean.
http://www.magnetking.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7DezASoRf5KVFSLxe_qBKx3dxZC7z5JYvchDqVxMUJgxoC7-zw_wcB#regularmagnet
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnets-30mil-Strong-Material/dp/B016OR9SCS/
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnetic-Sheet-White-Length/dp/B005HY9KDM
I noticed you didn't use any latch for keeping the lid closed. I like the nice clean look, and a couple magnets set in can make a great "latch." I used something like this in the past. Drilled holes to fit and CA glued them in.
Sucks about the wood movement, but good job overall :)
http://www.amazon.com/BYKES-Neodymium-Extremly-Powerful-Refrigerator/dp/B0084UASJQ/ref=pd_sim_indust_5
This is quite demonic.
First not only can it attract things, it can also push things away.
Also, I'm not sure if you've even gotten anything pinched or even crushed by one, but it hurts like hell. Some could even say the pain is so bad it's almost demonic.
Not to mention some can even interfere with implanted defibrillators as well as other electrical devices.
How can something to small have that much hidden power?
I've been using 1/8" for everything for a super secure connection that I can paint over without weakening. Same company though as I feel their magnets find a good compromise between strength and size.
You need this. It'll suck it right up, guaranteed. You may need a new detent pin afterwards.
I used
1.26" Neodymium Cup Magnets (qty 2) from Amazon
3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing (qty 1) from Amazon but only had a 6 pack
Not sure, but it's sold by CMS Magnetics. Got it here
I'm new too, but this is the one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JK20IR8
I've used it in a river and two lakes so far, and it seems to work.
i bought one of these and it is just a touch underpowered to pull the cap off. It can more times than not. I'd say 70% of the time the cap comes off. Maybe a slightly stronger magnet will do it. I just don't want the cap to basically be stuck to the magnet.
The magnet's are pretty small for how strong they are, you need to look for Neodymium magnets instead of ferrous ones. This is the one we use, it's plenty of power and quite cheap if you ask me. Don't get you hand caught in between it and metal, they can crush bones easily.
As for good spots we have had most success under bridges next to roads, but fishing piers or really wherever people go to fish are great to find lures, hooks and all kinds of fishing tools that can often be resold.
Hope that helps, it sure is a lot of fun for so little money.
I'm personally a fan of magnet discs myself. They tend to be quite a bit stronger than peel and attach magnets and stick to the fridge a whole lot better. I've seen medium sized sprites slowly fall with the strips but with discs they stay exactly where they're supposed to be. Just make sure you rinse them first as they aren't cleaned from the initial machining.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015RQVEEW/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000EBTQFK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04M5J1922V431T7EB6X1
I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.
Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!
Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.
Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.
4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.
Once could use a spade-bit to make a hole to countersink couterbored cup magnets flush with the surface, and then skim them with spackle and paint to match.
This is the magnet I used for the same style of display. rated to hold ~33lbs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181LX5Q0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OdB4Ab5NX3NSM
You can buy it direct from brutemagnetics.com but it's 60 USD shipping to Canada
There's also these: https://www.amazon.ca/Wukong-Neodymium-Combined-Magnetic-Underwater/dp/B07JPJ8GPP/
I already had them, but it was two of something like this.
wow. holy crap! clearly you have done this before on these cars.
I don't think that you can buy just the bare magnetic holder, but just a simple neodymium magnet bar would do the trick. Add a little insulation on the remote side so that the remote comes off the magnet rather than the whole thing lifting off the surface.
CMS Magnetics® Neodymium Round Base Magnet w/Countersunk Hole for#10 Bolt - 70 LBS PULL 1.26" in Dia 2 Ct. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008H40U10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nKuDxb9G02V3K
That's what I'm currently using. If I find 4 of them aren't strong enough I'll be adding a couple more. There are magnet sites where you can get a greater number if stronger magnets cheaper though.
That's an interesting thought... kind of curious to see what it would do. I think you'd only run into issues very close to or on top of a magnet. If it were me, I would try positioning your prints in a part of the bed with the least magnets-- they are around the edge and a few in the middle. Study the pics here or get yourself a piece of magnetic viewing film to make it easier to see where those spots are.
Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.
Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.
Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.
Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.
If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.
Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517603237&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.
Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.
I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.
The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:
Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)
The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.
Approximate substitutes to show variability:
Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)
Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)
The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.
This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".
Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.
Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.
Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.
From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.
Do this for three magnets.
Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.
Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.
Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.
If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.
If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.
Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.
The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.
This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.
If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.
This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.
Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.
Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.
Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.
If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.
Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.
Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.
Restring, and it's fixed!
Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.
This is the magnet I got and I like it quite well. Excellent for an entry and mid level fishing magnet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOvTBbS46NH6E is what I use plus paracord. No permits needed in most places.
Brute Magnetics Round Neodymium Magnet with Countersunk Hole and Eyebolt, 350 LBS Pulling Force, 2.95" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JK20IR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_049ozbGTANHYK
Link to the magnetic paper : https://www.amazon.com/Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Field-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS
long term investment.....
Here's an enormous one, that you should be able to cut down. But it's always most important to figure out what works best for you. Good luck!
Wall26 24"x 60" (2 by 5 feet) .30mil Super Strong Flexible Magnet Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-PE7CbS45996S
It's also not that expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VaBYCbS1RMHNB
Magnetic Viewing Film
https://smile.amazon.com/Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Field-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS
I have some, it's pretty cool!
I think they are pretty standard magnets. You need the “super magnets / rare earth magnets” that have a chrome look.
They are rates by pull per lbs.
I have not yet tested this on my 3. When I do, I will try to put the magnets inside the front license place holder that came with the car and inside the bumper. I would suggest lining the license plate holder with felt.
Here’s as example. There are stronger magnets than this on Amazon.
10Pc Super Strong N52 Neodymium Magnet 1.26" x 1/8" NdFeB Discs, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7x7TBbSCEM2PC
I’ll have my car back from the shop next week. Maybe this will be my first DIY project and I’ll post something on reddit.
Maybe try a few of of these Neodymium magnets with command strips
So, interestingly, you can actually see magnetic fields in THREE dimensions. Yeah, 3d. How so? They're called ferrocells. Here's an imgur album http://imgur.com/gallery/xQRYH
I can actually explain how this happens, too. It's called "Field incommensurability." Take a north and south pole of a magnet, they're "located" there right? Nope, if you could split the magnet in half there would be TWO north and TWO south poles on each side of the magnet. Split it again, there will be a north and south pole on each piece, every single time. This is an example of field incommensurability.
Now, when you take that magnetic viewing film and place two magnets side by side you'll see the white plane self-center itself around the two magnets.
What's actually happening is that when a magnet reaches another magnet and comes in contact, it becomes ONE entity - one magnet. So at that end with the singular one it's actually going to a new "end" of the magnet, as the entirety of the magnet becomes one big, long magnet.
Field incommensurability is where fields are non-point-specific, and are not LOCATED at somewhere, they are FORCED there, or are a pressure mediation to that spot. Think of it like water flowing down a hill, it's forced to be at that location.
If you want a more elegant solution, and have a steel case, use this: https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Strong-Magnetic-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI/
I've found only this and this
are they both fine?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XMBQLP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iqcsvZ9WAftGi
Since you have a bit of time to prepare:
Order some cheap neodym magnets.
https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B073WJMSCR/ref=sr_1_18?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=magnet&qid=1574550681&sr=8-18
When you have time put one magnet each on your nipples and put some tape over it.
Here are a couple things I want you to do with your magnetic nipples (if someone wants to use the name "magnetic nipple" for their heavy metal band you can have it xD ):
I like magnets and metal tools. Things just stay in place. Like this
something like this. good for keeping something in place. Just something to think when making things that hold tools. They are pretty cheap and do well in a ton of situations. one of those discs holds at least 10lb hammer they have smaller and thinner ones that work well for smaller stuff. Take a look
here you go
This one is for the round tags, I’m pretty sure they sell the black stick one’s too. Just trying to find jt
Amazon to the rescue
You can also order dynamags separately from dynavap or find a similar magnet (here are several on amazon with stickers on one side for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M ) and there are also other sizes/shapes available of that type of magnet on amazon.I also saw someone else mentioning that you can get several for 2 or 3 bucks from Harbor Freight if you have that store nearby. Grab some magnets and improvise something. :)
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[Edit -- the key for any magnet is "diametrically magnetized" and I admit I didn't verify that terminology when I mentioned the magnets above, except for the dynamag itself. But amazon has them for certain.]
I've used these in one application for a friend as I had them on hand from a different project
https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Strongest-Powerful-Magnets-Applied/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=super+magnets&qid=1554478654&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Something like this?
Check this out at Amazon.com
Strong Neodymium Disc Magnets (6 Pack) - 2X Stronger, 2X Thicker, Powerful, Small, Round, Rare Earth Magnets - N45 Industrial Strength NdFeB Magnet Set for Fridge, DIY, Crafts - 1.26" x 1/8" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJMSCR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pMMTCb9922Y73
https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527330981&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331185&sr=1-2&keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331163&sr=1-9&keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.
I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DNFP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519579269&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=n52+magnet&dpPl=1&dpID=41Jpmqz7zlL&ref=plSrch
I know this is old, but I'm currently putting together a drip tray shelf with magnets, and I want to point out to anybody else searching the sub:
The magnets on Amazon are a little more pricey, but they all quote 70+ lbs of pull force. These HD ones only say 5.8 lbs. So cheaper per magnet, sure. But at $8 (for 2 magnets, not per), you can probably use far fewer magnets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H40U10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25FKZJ6CRADAB
I've seen this one recommended a few times but I haven't bought it yet (I don't reach for my magnetics very often so I just haven't gotten around to it). This one is supposed to be strong enough that you can just lay your finger over the magnet and then paint each coat...no hovering necessary!
these. They worked great for this application and they are priced pretty well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JPZ42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1498398608&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=CMS+Magnetics
Here's. The link for anyone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US
Here is the mobile version of your link
The jury is still out on the magnet that catches the caps, I haven't drank enough since I made them.
To attach to the fridge
To catch the caps
CMS Magnetics 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film
it was less than $10 and totally worth it.
I just started this year. But I like this magnet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JK20IR8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And this rope (it comes with a carabiner): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PTTJR9S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
So the total is right around $50ish.
I'm going to route a small depression on each side of the tower and each side of the box and glue one of these in. It should hold it steady when open, and keep it together when closed: https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-N52-Super-Strong/dp/B01LYU3SX8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523119642&sr=8-4&keywords=thin+magnets
It's just a google search away.... http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Hobbies%C2%AE-Ceramic-Magnets-Science/dp/B015RQVEEW/ ... or ... http://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics%C2%AE-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B000UU6W3Y/