Best material handling products according to redditors
We found 1,042 Reddit comments discussing the best material handling products. We ranked the 471 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,042 Reddit comments discussing the best material handling products. We ranked the 471 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Why get that monster when this bad boy is available with free shipping?
Gorilla Gripper 'Advantage' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F738PCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-S3SBbD3NJ022
If these were cheaper I'd keep a pair in my trunk for just such occasions.
Jack up the front wheels, swing the double-parker out perpendicular, and leave it that way. Cops will definitely take care of it then, and you are long gone.
Somebody may be pranking you with rolling dollys/jacks like these. We had some of these in our auto program and would sometimes move students cars from the shop to the shop car storage area and then sit back and watch as they try and figure out how their locked car got moved. Fun times.
Fo those looking to get one:
Gorilla Gripper 'Advantage'
Congrats on the job!
[Tiffen Variable ND filter] (http://amzn.to/2mw8AY7) is a necessity to me, especially when outside.
This shoulder rig is really an impressive tool for the price.
Husky Multi-tool is my favorite multi-tool
A good tripod like Davis & Sanford model is probably one of the best purchases I've ever made (it's great as-is, and is even better when you upgrade the fluid head to a Manfrotto Video Head).
Pelican SD Card case not only provides protection, but also helps you keep organized.
Pelican 1510 with Padded Divider Case has been my main camera case for well over a year, and has saved my life on multiple occasions (downpours, falling down stairs, etc). I use the top organizer on it as well quite a bit.
This Apurture light is a great run-n-gun LED light that i prefer over costlier alternatives.
Joby Gorillapod is always in my camera bag for random uses. I use it mainly for a makeshift hair light mount, but I've gone as far as mounting my b-cam on it for timelapses.
Merrell Moab Waterproof Shoes are the best shooting shoes I've ever worn.
This Foldable Cart is incredible for me... I never go to a shoot without it. It folds up and fits in my small jeep along with the rest of my gear without an issue, and it gives me a workbench when deployed on location.
A watch with a compass is very important to me if I'm doing exteriors and have no idea where the sun is at due to cloud cover.
Anyway those are some odds and ends I could think of that I use on a day to day basis.
If you're going to make real use of this for hauling sheets, the real Gorilla Gripper is worth the $27 they charge. Unless you want to spend "just a few minutes" modeling and printing... which will be hours and will take days with waiting. Then of course your version will break :D
I found some for $9 on Amazon This would have been cool to see in science class.
Mutuactor Fishing Magnets 350lbs Pull Force,Strong Retrieval Magnet N52 Neodymium Magnets with 20m(64 Foot) Durable Rope,Powerful Magnets for Fishing and Magnetic Recovery Salvage
Good luck! :)
And that is why I put mine on magnets.
Flexible Magnet Sheet With Adhesive, 0.030" Thick, 12" Wide, 24" Length (1 sheet rolled inside tube) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I did something similar, but instead just stuck the magnets on the inside of the metal lid, which needs no glue.
Edit: BTW I chose these magnets.
The orange band things in the second picture are called Forearm Forklift. You're welcome
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU
here ya go
Cooling towel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UR4HHC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4l56AbN9DNQ5B
The pith helmet if you can't get your hands on one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GT71IO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sn56Ab0DZ1BM6)
Badge holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TH4OLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lo56Ab6HF9XA7)
MOLLE Pouch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HZR2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zp56Ab3VYFKPF)
Collapsing hand truck/cart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nr56AbNZ6RGQN)
In the past I used a tray. My next tournament I'm using this I'm tired of not having space to put all my shit.
https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-85-188-Collapsible-Service/dp/B00M0V5PWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=folding+carts+with+wheels+collapsible&qid=1570383660&sprefix=folding+cart&sr=8-13
Magnets my man, magnets.
Get some Neodymium magnets and some GoPro stickies and you can mount just about anything
Hello! Do you have any rivers, ponds or bodies of water near you? If so, you should try magnet fishing. Magnet fishing is where you have a magnet (Usually 100-500 pound test) attached to a rope, and throw it into the body of water, and drag it back into shore. You can find anything. you can get cheap magnets on Amazon, such as:
This, a 350 Pound test magnet, or This, a 290 Pound test magnet
It fits in with Metal Detecting very well.
OP delivers!
We had originally considered purchasing a vehicle lift, but they were much more expensive, required a lot of headroom (the garage ceiling is only about 8'4" high), and would have required us to change the garage door tracks and opener to let it clear. This was a much simpler (and cooler) solution.
Many parts were purchase from Amazon, so I provided links so you can take a look.
Parts:
==================
Details:
I had access to the studs and rafters as we removed the drywall to remodel the garage, so I was able to use 2x4s and 2x12s to strengthen the areas where the eye hooks were secured.
I built these pivoting support blocks to keep the axle from taking any of the load. I put carpet on the blocks to keep them from scraping the new garage floor.
I use these dollies to position the trailer to be hooked up to the pivot blocks.
I use the rope hoist to make the raising and lowering of the trailer a one person operation. You need to pull the trailer away from the wall to get it to start lowering and also need to steady it on its way up so it doesn't fall into position too quickly.
Try these out
Here you go!
Find something like this and it will make your life so much easier
I bought my little kit on amazon for $25. Came with the rope and everything. I’ll link it.
Mutuactor Fishing Magnets 350lbs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYC7R6S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Magna cart!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HVVSDU?pc_redir=1405042072&robot_redir=1
Seriously though, cheap folding dolly that I've used for the last 4 years.
Ten bucks and you can have one too! Magnetic Viewing Film
WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.
Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:
CART
PRODUCTS
EQUIPMENT
Or a set of these
folding dolly's work just as well
edit I've seen these at Costo for pretty cheap and work well at triggering the sensor
This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU
Reasonable price, decently sturdy, and folds up small enough to fit in any trunk or whatever. Would recommend short bungee cords though. Saves you from having to borrow one or killing your back lugging stuff around.
I bought this collapsing handtruck from Amazon. It's excellent, and a mere US$35, with free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oss_product
I bring this up because this design focuses on hinging the foot and uses extendable frame rods to get portability. It's a vertically-collapsing design, whereas yours seems to be collapsing horizontally.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US
Copied from the YouTube video
This is exactly what I bought. If you happen to be near Burbank I have a ton of extra I would like to give away. Edit: I adhered the Carpool stickers and the backing paper to the sticky side of the magnet sheet. This way, if I have to I can unstick the carpool sticker and place them on the car though I really hope it doesn’t come to that.
Dude.
http://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-Lifting-Moving-L74995CN/dp/B008ASBLJI/ref=sr_1_1/179-4449487-3414453?ie=UTF8&qid=1414293300&sr=8-1&keywords=forearm+fork+lift
Don't know what kind of "stud finder" you are using. But it is always best not to over complicate this. Get a good, strong rare earth magnet. Ideally one with a hole in it like this: https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Neodymium-Magnet-Countersunk/dp/B008H40U10
Tie a couple of feet of string on it. Hold the string end against the wall and swing the magnet like a pendulum. Move it around. Once you find a nail or screw go vertically from there. Those are your studs.
Every sheet of drywall has some fasteners. At least a few on every stud. They are made out of ferrous metal. Even lath and plaster walls have nails fastening the lath to the studs. There may be good reasons to have the fancy electronic gadget stud finders. But magnets work and they never need fresh batteries to do it.
magnets bruh
Glass-filled nylon polymer gripper plates and steel for the two levers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F738PCE
Steel for everything:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TYCA8
PLA isn't a good choice for this since it doesn't yield. It shatters without any warning signs.
I guess it would be a good idea to oversize everything quite a bit to make room for thicker walls.
Edit: I'm not sure why safety concerns always get downvoted on this sub, but there really is quite a lot of force involved and the device might be right next to your face when it violently shatters. Regular PLA is brittle. I'd even recommend wearing glasses/goggles when removing supports, because every once in a while a small sharp piece breaks off and flies in a random direction. PLA is cheap and super easy to print, but it does have its fair share of downsides.
Couldn't find a nice iPad kneeboard and was thinking of DIY. Would a magnetic mount on a kneeboard disturb the magnetic compass? (i.e. with magnets like those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 3 on the kneeboard, 3 on an ipad case, and you got yourself a nice magnetic holder).
One solution:
I really enjoy my NeoTech straps. Very adjustable. It seems the price has gone up quite a bit since I grabbed two pair years ago, so you might want to wait until more are in stock as the Amazon price seems to fluctuate according to availability.
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I use a gig bag for my accordion. So long as you know it will be safe in a soft bag, it's much easier to transport than a hard wood shell case.
I've also used a collapsible dolly in the past to move my amp. You can get them pretty cheap in a lot of places. I think I may have gotten mine at Wal-mart. I've never used it for my accordion, but it could definitely work if you want to transport it in the hard case.
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As for cleaner playing... practice slower. Use a metronome. You can often hide how bad your time is by playing too fast and usually you aren't actually in control when doing so. Practice slowly enough that you are able to be absolutely conscious of time and your movements. It should be very intentional. Even with a song you think you know... try practicing it at half tempo with a metronome and you'll likely find that you don't actually know it very well.... you're just relying on a sort of auto-pilot. That sort of auto-pilot can fail spectacularly.
But if you practice with control at a lot of varying tempos then you eventually even things out. Being a rush to get something fast and make it "sound like a song" usually just means you'll pick up bad habits along the way. When you do this you have spend more than double the time fixing a bad habit than you would if you'd just been patient and practiced slowly to start with.
When you only practice correctly, that's basically all your body and brain know how to do. When you practice faster than you can control and do so erratically and inconsistently... you actually train yourself to be better at being inconsistent... and then you have to break fix those hard learned mistakes.
Over time a lot of this stuff will go on relative auto-pilot, but not that sort of blind finger memory that so many people rely on where their fingers are ahead of their brains. Instead, you get to a point where your body just responds to whatever you're thinking... like speaking or typing (if you type well). You don't have to think about how to move your mouth to make each word. You think words and they just happen. But you're still in control mentally. It's just that there's no longer a huge delay between thought and action. That eventually happens with playing a musical instrument.
It's thought that this has to do with myelin sheathing if you want to look into the mechanism that governs this. But it takes lots of practicing correctly rather than incorrectly. Also, if you aren't actually being mindful of what you're doing and just letting fingers fly for 100s of brain dead repetitions, you aren't actually supporting this process in any meaningful way.
Like /u/stargazertony, I've got a heavy instrument with a hard case (30-some pounds altogether). I tried carrying it around for a little while once and nearly dropped it after about 30 minutes. My solution was to get one of these, though; I can put the case on there and roll it around quite easily.
Check your local LANs at http://lanpartylist.com/ or as another commenter posted, google "LAN Party" + your state/region. I don't recommend searching by city since you might miss out on a sweet LAN only a few more miles down the road.
Generally speaking for most public LANs, assume that a chair and 3-4 feet of table space is provided for you, and nothing else. Cables are generally a cointoss, so always assume you'll need your own. You should bring the following at minimum.
The LAN host will generally post a list of "the community's favorite games" or possibly even a schedule with specific games. Install all of these in advance and make sure they're fully patched the night before game day, since bandwidth may be limited or non-existent even. Put Steam into offline mode until you know it's safe to go online.
Do NOT bring:
Have fun!
yep, that's what these little pumps do:
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q
You can, in a 2D-plane.
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GCJD3XAJ6ZZP502H7QW9
n52 one inch cube
^ get this it's only 8$ and comes in 2 days. It Can take off every tag except the ones that need a hook. It's very strong, put it on my fridge and I had to get it off with a fork.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DNFP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519235615&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1x1+n52+neodymium+magnet
Found it.
I was in the same predicament. Picked up two sets of these, fashioned one high and one lower, then anchored it to the wall stud. Not super beautiful, but it gives me enough peace of mind and kind of blends in (lucky my speakers are black). I feel as though its a decent solution, however nothing is going to beat hard anchoring with metal hooks into the enclosure. Hope this helps! Would love to hear some other ideas as well!
If you stick some neodymium magnets to your bike (I put 2 on my left pedal) you'll be able to trigger the sensor! :)
Also has the advantage of allowing you to trigger a green light on the road where there are the embedded wires.
I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084UASJQ/
Edit: Or maybe not... http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/2hirgt/do_any_of_you_regularly_take_your_bike_places/ckt4py0
Nite Ize locking mini 'biners?
These come in various sizes; this is an example.
Gorilla Gripper $34.00
People here laugh at us, but we have all our kitchen cabinets secured with latches and our bookshelves and washer/dryer secured with earthquake straps like these: https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-4162-15-Inch-Furniture-Antique/dp/B000FJP24U
It probably won't help during The Big One™, but for any minor quakes (have lived through three already in the City), they can help prevent damage.
I would buy a set of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4) and move it every time he parks there.
The monitor carrier is a great idea to protect the screen. BUT, for the cpu I suggest getting a cart like this and bungie cords to tie it all down on while traveling through the airport instead of trying to lug the case and monitor physically. I have used one of these for years, it was worth every penny.
Other suggestions:
If you have the original boxes for both, I highly suggest that you ship them via Fedex or UPS instead in their original boxes.
If you are going to fly with them, and you want to chance checking them to fly in the underbelly of the plane, I suggest you pull out your Graphics card(s) and Hard Drives, and place them in your carry on luggage, I've seen the end results of the TSA taking apart computers to inspect these part and then just tossing them back into the case willy-nilly.
https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU
They come in handy. You can grab one at Costco!
Ditch the stroller and get something like this that you can strap the car seat to: Brica Roll 'n Go Car Seat Transporter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074JKQ0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2CiDbM7MEPRB
Then you can gate check them all. We actually used a Magna hand cart and bungee cords last time we flew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_15CiDb9G4KKB5
Car seats that are FAA-approved should fit in the plane seats.
I don't have that but I do have this Personal Dolly.
I live in an apartment and walking from the apartment to office to pick up my packages is way easier with this when I know I'm getting some heavy package or big box.
I also lend it to new neighbors moving in. They always appreciate saving their backs and make the job take half the time.
A portable A/C unit sound like your best option. Like the other post said, go for a dual hose unit if possible. These are more expensive but worth it. The single hose units will need to draw air from the outside albeit indirectly. I built a box around the lower coils of a single hose portable AC unit to draw air from the outside directly into the unit. The saved me from pulling air in from all over the house and running the building AC more.
As far as the unattended requirement, most portable AC units should have drain plugs. You can run a small hose from the upper and lower drains into a condensate pump. You then run a small hose from the pump out the window or to a nearby drain. The pump will gather the moisture into a small reservoir. Once the pump reservoir fills to a certain level, it will pump the water out the window or to the drain. Everything you need can be bought at most big box home improvement stores or amazon.
Condensate pump: Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal Pump. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rYpVDbFDQ8239
Example AC unit:
Whynter Elite ARC-122DS 12,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable AC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AA8WOAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x1pVDbBCRNERY
Tip: when buying the AC unit, make sure it has an upper and lower drain that have threaded or securable attachments. The Amazon link has a picture of the rear where you can see one between the hoses and one at the bottom. Take the screw caps off and then take them to the local plumbing home improvement store. Use the caps to find the proper size plastic connectors with a nib to connect tubing to.
Also, look at insulating the hoses to avoid unnecessary heat transfer. The hoses will get hot and are plastic so they will transfer the heat. Some simple pipe wrap can make a huge difference.
Screen the hoses from outside insects and critters. Keep in mind that even a screen can create back pressure. I dont like to screen right at the hose outlet. But if using the windows built inscreen, some air can be reflected into the intake, so a little blocking material can help the in and out flows.
Exactly. You can also run it into a little pump if there's no drain handy. For algae control, drop a treatment tablet in there.
Get a condensate pump and tie it into your dehumidifier. A condensate pump should be able to pump at least 25' vertically post discharge. Run that drain line either outside through the rim joist (with a final discharge at least 10 feet from the foundation) or run the discharge tubing up to your laundry tub/washer discharge drain.
Most humidifiers these days allow for a continuous drain so it shouldn't be too difficult to attach the condensate pump to it.
Edit: condensate pump
CMS Magnetics® 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film on Amazon UK
Found
$33 for the load strap when you can just get these for $6.50
but i do love my organic chalk bucket.
I've had mixed results with the adhesives on those. I would suggest supplementing with a bit of super glue/epoxy.
Also, depending on what OP is making it might be a good idea to go for bigger magnet sheets that can be cut down to size. It's bit more budget conscious and you can make odd shapes if necessary.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1404232861&sr=1-1&keywords=magnet+sheet
Master Magnetics Magnet Sheet | Flexible Magnet Sheet with Adhesive, 12" Wide, 24" Long | 8504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X36YBbA44AEQX
Moving straps (10$) http://www.amazon.com/Above-All-Forearm-Forklift-Lifting/dp/B008ASBLJI
Carry it yourself. 2 girls can do it with those straps, really. My GF and her mom basically moved everything themselves with those.
If you're broke - do it yourself.
http://www.amazon.com/WEN-73002-500-Pound-Capacity-Service/dp/B00H1V4EB2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465171989&sr=8-2&keywords=work+cart
With my mobile rig I carry my cables, snakes, and stage box in a milk crate. I carry my microphones in another milk crate. And then I have my 6U Gator case with all my gear inside (power conditioner, audio interface, mic pre, audio interface, 2U drawer with laptop and power cable).
I also have a folding cart to carry it all.
Is it Pro? Maybe not. But it works and I get paid.
Maybe instead of getting a new amp grab yourself a collapsible hand truck? They cut out a lot of the lugging. I'm a pretty big fan of having one around.
This the the cart that I have, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4KeAzb0ZDKPEF
I use a bungee cord to keep my table from tipping. It's not specifically for massage tables, but I like that I can use it as a dolly or hand cart when I need to for other things.
I haven't heard of anyone doing that. I guess it could work, but how effective would it be? I can't say. If you wanted to experiment, maybe get some P100 filters and test it out on some alcohol or acetone fumes.
What I do to vent fumes, and I suspect what most people do, is to simply run a duct with a fan to a window. Any 4" or 6" inline duct fan will work well. They're easy to mount, they're cheap, and they're very powerful.
This 6" inline fan is the one that I use. I have it plugged into a speed control because I rarely need it's full 400 CFM sucking power. I usually use it at about half power. I mounted it under my workbench with the output duct permanently installed in an adjacent window. I keep the input duct retracted under the table so I can pull it out when I need it.
I don't have any fancy system for this. When I'm cleaning a part and I need to vent the fumes, I just pull out the duct from under the table and rest it on the workbench next to the cleaning vats (being careful not to suck up any paper towels or nitrile gloves... for the tenth time). It's a bit ghetto, but it's very effective. I usually can't smell anything when the fan is running. Even isopropyl alcohol fumes get sucked away faster than they can reach my nose.
Hope that helps.
https://www.amazon.com/wholesalers-Hydroponic-Scrubber-Ledwholesalers-GYO2305/dp/B005HT0GZ8
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=asc_df_B01M7S46YZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198099432697&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11339173752191949168&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027632&hvtargid=pla-350510992464&psc=1
Get this (or something similar, might be cheaper other places) and run it next to your space bucket. For one plant in a bucket this should be more then enough to keep smell out. Just set this up next to your bucket. Pull air through the filter and push it out the top of fan.
I think you’re “done” with this bud. Many a threads are on here with “what to do” ideas.
Look to set this up ASAP and next run to get humidity in the 45%.
Vent: VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rlPRDbJH6MVKB
Humidity monitor/controller: Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidistat Mushroom Greenhouse Pre Wired Outlet Dual Stage Humidifier Dehumidifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1E5LWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4mPRDbN62PRW4
Set the controller to 45%, plug the fan into it, and she’ll watch the tent 24/7
I bought this ikea cabinet My plan is to cut a hole in the top with a 4in hole saw and put in a duct fan like this and run the duct out the window. The only problem is getting the printer out of the cabinet when the print is done but I figure it's easy enough to build a sliding platform for that.
Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Extension cords
Plenty of options
Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4 inch duct
Can find anywhere
Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere
Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Soil probe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.
Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011
there is an amazon link
I highly recommend these. They are not the most discreet but they are easy and strong. One strap is plenty for most furniture.
I use furniture straps available at any hardware store on my 60 gallon tank. They use a very strong adhesive which sticks to the aquarium, and is detachable by velcro. The other sides screw into the wall studs.
Something similar to these ones
One option is furniture securing straps. If you live somewhere prone to earthquakes, you've probably seen them before.
The same people also make special putty for securing stuff to shelves. That was very helpful for childproofing at my house.
> wheel dollies
Made me think of these; might make things easier by eliminating the jacking up and then throwing the wheel dollies underneath it part of it.
I suppose you could always get a couple of these and move them yourself.
I like to imagine turning their car into a shopping cart:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mush3hNbnmY
I got a Magna cart for this thought:
http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Cart-Personal-Hand-Truck/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407268857&sr=8-2&keywords=magna+cart
Here’s the link on amazon.
Magna Cart Personal 150 lb... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sorry, it’s $35 not $30. The handle folds down and the flat part you load stuff on folds up. I’ve put 3 cases of water on that thing with no problem. Best investment I’ve made for this job.
You're not going to want to give DK2 demos running on a machine that can't output 75 fps, unless you want to get all the newbies sick. I'd invest in either a PC case for LAN use , or a simple hand truck to cart your rig to and from meetups/demos.
re: beach cart
I have one of these, collapses super small and could fit two 5 gallon bags I would guess. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU
Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal 1/30 HP Pump with Safety Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_oKDtDbKHE70PY
This is the one I have.... It pumps strait to my laundry basin
Unfortunately this is probably one of the more difficult things to get automated for relatively cheap and with enough confidence that it won't fail and cause water damage (low risk but high damage potential, so I would want something very robust)
If you use one pump and split it to the trays, once the first tray goes dry the pump won't pull from the others. And depending on the pump, you risk the pump not priming properly after it runs dry, so it might not pull anything.
Easiest would be to gravity drain each tray into a common bucket and empty that either manually or on a pump on a timer that drains it at some frequency.
I just found this condensate removal pump which might be a good fit, especially if you don't have a ton of waste water all at once.
I've never used that pump or one like it before, so no guarantees, but it actually seems perfect for this! I might get one and try it out myself sometime. I don't know how robust the moisture sensors are, especially with all the stuff in runoff water.
Do you have power in your crawlspace? A light or something? Or possibly there's an outlet on the outside of your house? I had these guys http://www.eastcoastcrawlspace.com install the vapor barrier on the ground and up the piers and walls for $1200. I also bought this dehumidifier - https://www.amazon.com/Keystone-KSTAD50B-Portable-Dehumidifier-6-4-Pint/dp/B00IJYH02U that has continuous drain capabilities and this condensate pump - https://www.amazon.com/Little-554425-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537466371&sr=8-3&keywords=little+giant+condensate+pump
I had an outside outlet circuit that was easily accessible from inside my crawlspace, so I just wired another outlet onto that circuit and mounted on the wall inside my crawlspace. I bought some hose from Home Depot to allow for continuous drain from the dehumidifier to the condensate pump and also some hose for the condensate pump and drilled a hole on the crawlspace doorframe to send the condensate drain hose outside. Once I had it all set up, it's just set it and let it do it's thing. I keep the humidity at 35 down there and never have a problem. You don't need a sump pump if you don't have standing water in your crawlspace.
I checked the obvious solution not really expecting success, but there it is!
This isn't X-Rays, it's magnetic viewing film. You can buy it on amazon for around $10 here
I bought some a while back to use with motors
CMS MAGNETICS 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Viewing Film, See Magnetic Field with this Magic Film to Learn Magnetism. Applicable for All Kinds of Magnets Including Neodymium Magnets, Lots of Fun! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bD2yCbYNJ2P6P
$9 https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS/
Need one of dem magnets too.
https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/
https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1500978176&sr=1-5&keywords=n52
same force, a little bit smaller
Try an N52 grade neodymium magnet. Be careful as hell with it though, they don't call the highest grade of rare earth magnets 'permanent magnets' for nothing.
Would this be a good substitute? https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Strong-Neodymium-Magnet/dp/B0012DNFP6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481765385&sr=8-1&keywords=n52#customerReviews
This is quite demonic.
First not only can it attract things, it can also push things away.
Also, I'm not sure if you've even gotten anything pinched or even crushed by one, but it hurts like hell. Some could even say the pain is so bad it's almost demonic.
Not to mention some can even interfere with implanted defibrillators as well as other electrical devices.
How can something to small have that much hidden power?
You need this. It'll suck it right up, guaranteed. You may need a new detent pin afterwards.
I don't have a suggestion for the bike mounted seats, but I've been pulling around my now 6 month old for 2-3 months with a Burley Honey Bee trailer. We rigged a set up involving 2 tie down straps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/) and her car seat. Wrapped the straps around the aluminum frame and through the car seatbelt hooks on the car seat. Here's an image of the setup from RAGBRAI this last week http://imgur.com/a/tOpMM
I can move it myself and I am in no way in the running for a strong man competition. While a tad heavy, it's more awkward getting it through doors and around corners.
Parts List:
Yoga balls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ4PXFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
pillow bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGLAM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/4 inch steek rod:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069AB2NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rail Clamping Guides:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07426SVYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Straps to anchor the trainer: (Way to long) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have no knowledge of which of these are "the good stuff" but this will give you an idea of what i mean.
http://www.magnetking.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7DezASoRf5KVFSLxe_qBKx3dxZC7z5JYvchDqVxMUJgxoC7-zw_wcB#regularmagnet
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnets-30mil-Strong-Material/dp/B016OR9SCS/
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnetic-Sheet-White-Length/dp/B005HY9KDM
Based on my setup, you need;
Decent thermometer
Auto Siphon & tubing
hydrometer
wine/beer thief
carboy or bucket for fermenting + rubber stopper & blowoff tube
bottling bucket w/ spigot
bottling wand
bottle capper + bottles & caps
I recommend 10 gallon kettle, I regret getting only 8 gal.
mesh brew bag sized to fit your kettle. Useful for both BIAB and batch sparge brewing.
Optional but very useful;
10 gallon mash tun (square or round cooler + steel braid/false bottom + brass valve) I regret only getting a 5 gallon. Easy home depot built.
DIY stirplate using adjustable computer fan + magnets + stir bar and a flask (I pull it off with a 1 gallon glass jug)
vinator
Fermentation chamber with temp controller!
I suggest getting these items Silver Sculpey Get one pack for each bullet splash you want to have.
Then get these. Make sure you have two magnets or each bullet splash.
Then I'd make one claw arm not two as it's a pain to go without two hands. To make the claw I'd grab some foam board.
Get some Super glue or hot glue.
Silver paint that matches the baked shade of the clay.
some blue paint that matches your cop uniform.
Start with the clay, open it and save the wrapper- shape the stuff into dishes with a entry hole or deep point. From the center of each dish make spirals that come out - You could even make the clay into a long snake and coil it around and around to make your dishes. Then make an indent to place one of your magnets flush into the base and make it 10% deeper and wider. Follow the instructions and bake it. Grab super glue and attach one magnet to the dish and the other threw your cop uniform.
The arm is gonna be a bit harder. You want to cut out some shapes from the foam core and then glue it with some superglue or hot glue. I'd start off with cutting two rectangles about as wide as your forearm and about 10 -12 inches longer . the remainder I would cut into long right triangles that are as long as the long piece. This should help make a box to fit your arm in, continue to cut and glue additional pieces to make your hooks. Paint the same color as your putty dishes and you should be done. To help with the details- blend your silver paint into your clothing by matching a blue of the uniform into the splashes and arm the transition into the silver.
http://www.amazon.com/BYKES-Neodymium-Extremly-Powerful-Refrigerator/dp/B0084UASJQ/ref=pd_sim_indust_5
I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.
Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!
Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.
Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.
4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.
Moving straps!!
I am about to move from a 3 story apartment so these would definitely be helpful! Can you imagine how much easier moving would be with these things? Especially going down two flights of stairs. Yikes!!
My favorite color is gray because it goes with everything!
Maybe try these out?
I used
1.26" Neodymium Cup Magnets (qty 2) from Amazon
3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing (qty 1) from Amazon but only had a 6 pack
It's not the sexiest but I use this Nite Ize clip and it works pretty well, and they have different sizes in case you carry more than a couple keys.
Do you have to carry all your swipe cards? Some places will take phone number instead. I only carry a front door key, car key, car remote, and mailbox key. I bought this and have my personal keys on one side and my work keys on the other side.
this would be great for me
and a big HUG for you
I use the locking S-binder
The lock is great and it's easy to move from his walking collar to his harness as needed.
It looks like this WEN-branded one.
Personally, I've got my eye on this Suncast one with the trays.
We do low voltage work and use this one all the time for all kinds of projects. We load it easily in a fairly compact Ford Transit Connect. They make a slightly larger one too, we needed one to move through doors easily. Pretty sure I have seen the same cart listed under different brands (Northern Tool maybe). As long as it's not rolling on carpet or it will absolutely carry +450lbs.
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-73002-500-Pound-Capacity-Service/dp/B00H1V4EB2
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-73002-500-Pound-Capacity-Service/dp/B00H1V4EB2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=wen+tea+cart&qid=1556404264&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0
I use this:
Cosco Shifter 300-Pound Capacity Multi-Position Heavy Duty Folding Hand Truck and Dolly, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1KJ0CbMPVMGE8
Whoa, quite a bit to unpack here. I'd say you can pare this down by a lot if you're just starting out. There's not really a need to spend that much and get so many separate products. If you do want these though, here's the edits I would make:
The biggest issue I'm seeing here is the lack of quality microfibers for general purpose use; the 50 pack cleaning cloths you're getting are nice for interior, jambs and wheels, but I'd be skeptical about using them on paint.
There's a bit of redundancy as well; no need to get WetCoat, ONR Wash and Wax and a spray wax. Wet Coat would work well enough as a sealant, and you can use either ONR W+W or the spray wax to top up on it (although with how easy WetCoat is to use, that wouldn't even be necessary).
If you switch the ONR W+W to the normal blue ONR, then you can get rid of the glass cleaner and Lexol as well. Blue ONR is a fantastic window cleaner. Modern automotive leather has a polyurethane coating on it, so you're not actually cleaning the leather itself; because of that, there's no need to condition it. Just keeping it free from oil and dirt buildup is all you need. You can also get a clay bar by itself instead of a clay kit; ONR will be the much cheaper way to lubricate your car while claying.
Also, this is the cart I'm using; it's expensive, but awesome.
Not all of this is strictly competitive advice, necessarily, but quality of life things:
DO Hydrate. Assuming you're not coming from a desert climate, Las Vegas is extremely dry. Not keeping on top of your water consumption can wear on your stamina over the three days (particularly if you're also planning on imbibing adult beverages). Also, the venue has a strict "no outside food/beverages" policy, so consider bringing empty container to fill inside the venue (tap water is in the bathroom and they usually have water coolers stocked).
DO make sure you're getting some sitting in. Although a lot of players' instinct is to stand for all phases of every game, taking the time to rest by sitting when you aren't directly interacting with the game can save you a lot of energy to carry you through the long weekend. Generally speaking, you're going to put a lot of miles on your feet over the weekend. Walking from your room to the convention, walking to get food, walking to the bathroom. Nearly everything you want is going to require a walk to get to and it adds up over the weekend. Get the rests where you can.
DO bring comfortable walking shoes. For the reasons above, you're going to be doing a lot of leg work and your feet will thank you if you plan accordingly.
DO Consider bringing a rolling cart for your army. Table space is limited to basically just the game board, with very little surface area to devote to storage during game, basically, you have the floor (danger of getting stepped on and added work to stoop and grab things) and, unless it's been moved elsewhere, a single chair (but that also takes up your sitting space). I saw a few people with these carts last year and I was super jealous at how convenient it was.
DO know that the catered food from the venue is probably the worst option, historically. Although I'm certainly open to the possibility that they'll improve this year, the lunch catered by the venue was so understaffed and slow last year that many people couldn't even get from the back of the line to the front in the time given for lunch break. Personally, I just ate my food in line and paid for the empty trays just to make time. There's a food court in the basement of Bally's that almost certainly is faster, even if it requires a short walk. Alternatively, there's always the in-casino convenience stores if you only have time to cram a candy bar into your face before heading back.
DO Consider your Sunday plan and how you want to spend it. Unless you're in the top tables, the 40K Championships end on Saturday. There is a Sunday event for players who don't make top tables, if you wish. But you need to ask yourself if you want to spend that time playing or enjoying the rest of the convention and/or Las Vegas. Personally, the first few years, I would always join in the Sunday events...and would end up feeling MISERABLE by the end. Too much drinking. Too little sleep, etc. I learned my lesson that I'd rather spend Sunday enjoying the city with my teammates and relaxing rather than pushing on for a third day. It varies person to person, but the last thing you want to do is drop early on Sunday. Better to play it safe and plan the day doing other activities.
Gorilla Gripper 'Advantage' is the one shown in this video. $34 on Amazon.
This one is just labeled "Gripper."
This is the Gator Grip, and it costs 2× what the other two cost.
Edit for links
I'm of a similar mind; I have two major magnets I carry, a 173 and 405 pound lifts. Personally, I started with the 173, because it was cheap, but as others have said, sub-200 can be a little anemic depending on what you find.
Thus, I upgraded to the 405. What I find myself doing regularly is using the 173 more often because it's smaller and more maneuverable, and whipping out the 405 when I find something I'm slipping off of.
The magnets I have:
https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Holding-Neodymium-Eyebolt/dp/B01GZDNVQ0/ref=pd_sim_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9ZPMWKNZED7074CY8PZT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA?psc=1
Just get one from CMS Magnetics on Amazon. They have a 250# and a 405# for $35 and less with eye hooks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JPZ42OA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure, but it's sold by CMS Magnetics. Got it here
The magnet's are pretty small for how strong they are, you need to look for Neodymium magnets instead of ferrous ones. This is the one we use, it's plenty of power and quite cheap if you ask me. Don't get you hand caught in between it and metal, they can crush bones easily.
As for good spots we have had most success under bridges next to roads, but fishing piers or really wherever people go to fish are great to find lures, hooks and all kinds of fishing tools that can often be resold.
Hope that helps, it sure is a lot of fun for so little money.
Of course man, also here is a list of the other parts I bought.
MyLifeUNIT 3 Way Duct Connector, Duct Splitter for Exhaust Fan Dryer Vent Hose, 4 Inch Dia. (Y Shape) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2YKGWB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0IHuDb9WEW7WN
VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LKHuDb1CNH3RQ
iPower GLDUCT4X25C 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Dryer Vent Hose HVAC Ducting, 4", Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMHCTWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLHuDbGHERVSB
I have a 2x2 tent and a Can Fan S-400, which was what my hydro shop recommended when I was getting started. There are no doubt cheaper 4" fans on Amazon, but it seems very well made and has a 5 year warranty. I also have a Vivosun 4" fan, which I run freestanding with an extra carbon filter attached to scrub the air during harvest. It works, and isn't especially noisy, but feels very cheaply made.
I've heard people say that a 6" fan turned way down can quietly move a lot of air, but haven't tried it, and a 6" fan on full speed could suck in the tent walls too much or even tear them. (I get pretty strong negative pressure with my 4" fan on full!)
I haven't used any fans with an integrated speed controller, but the external fan speed controllers that actually reduce voltage are vastly superior to the cheap ones that just rapidly flip power on and off -- depending on the fan motor type, the latter can damage the motor or produce loud buzzing as you slow it down past a certain point. When I tried one with mine, anything below 80% or so started buzzing. The better controllers cost a bit more ($70 vs. $15), but since it's actual industrial equipment it should have good resale value.
My tent is in my home office and I don't find the noise problematic, if that helps.
For a 2x2 tent, it's probably more effective to control humidity in the surrounding room, rather than putting a dehumidifier in the tent.
You could do a space bucket style build if you are lacking space and dont mind some DIY.
But if you want a tent style this is kind of like mine
Tent just used this size as it is standard some companies will make smaller ones.
Lights good for a 2x2 tent
Inline fan exhaust
Booster fan good for air in
Filter wont need this until flower
https://www.amazon.com/Humidity-Controller-Inkbird-Humidistat-Pre-wired/dp/B01J1E5LWM/
and this
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ
will clear your humidity out in a minute or two. get a cheaper humidistat if you want, just needs to turn on and off at a set point, but the inkbird is a good value.
https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/collections/all/products/hlg-100
But thats still a lot of money for 4 square feet of canopy.
You could throw a 600w HID kit into a 4x4 tent for a few hundred $$ and get a ton more bud
This https://www.amazon.ca/iPower-Digital-Dimmable-System-Reflector/dp/B008H15WFM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266480&sr=8-3&keywords=600w+hid+grow+light
with this https://www.amazon.ca/Upgraded-Window-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B075CF47H6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266513&sr=8-1&keywords=4x4+tent
and this https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266589&sr=8-3&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan
to replace your tent, light and fan. Less than $150 more than you spent on those things, but grows 4x the cannabis at a time
4in fan
Ducting
It’s this tent vented with this fan with a carbon filter attached. They’re both pretty cheap but seem to be working fine so far.
If you are only using butane torches and a pickle pot, you may be able to get away without one, but it is healthier if you use ventilation. You are going to inevitably burn oils and other contaminants and that should not be going into your lungs.
A 200 CFM, 4" duct fan can be used with a dryer hose and a 'vent periscope' box to make a permanent in-window vent system. Add some duct insulation and it won't bleed heat. The basic setup is about $60.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/
https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/
My periscope box installed: https://imgur.com/MIJTJDY
My vent setup: https://imgur.com/tNHUJ8X
I'm using Acetylene, and that gives off soot, so I *need* a vent system. I will probably add a stove hood from the remodelling surplus store just for better smoke collection.
I used plastic ones on two bath renovations, very quiet, and wont rust.
VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
A charcoal filter works for indoor use. I printed this adapter on my ender 3:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754
And I ran it through a filter with these things:
It works great for me, and I'm very sensitive to the resin fumes.
Hello there, I recently started growing and purchased all new items. The fan you chose simply won't work. You will be very disappointed in the performance. I was going to use that fan as an inflow booster with a pre-filter. I quickly returned it because it just did not move enough air. The fan could not create positive pressure in the tent. I then tried this fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495901534&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41G0I96VBVL&ref=plSrch
I ended up returning that one as well because it was advertised as 200cfm and it was not moving anywhere near the same air amount as the first fan I bought. I then broke down and bought the same fan I originally purchased as my outflow fan and filter. I bought just the fan for 56.00 as an inflow fan and put a pre-filter on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7M6692/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495901249&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan+carbon+filter+combo&dpPl=1&dpID=51REkA1uNbL&ref=plSrch
I have a duct fan blowing into a carbon filter. It does a great job keeping the smell down.
I used this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
Along with a 3d printed duct for the back at the machine, with the blower positioned at the end of the hose. Works great.
It's an infinity table with some wood and a bottle opener on it.
On the back of the wood you can take a forstner bit the size of a rare earth magnet and drill a hole the size of the magnet.
Use two part epoxy to secure the magnet in place and there ya go.
Mutuactor Fishing Magnets 350lbs Pull Force,Strong Retrieval Magnet N52 Neodymium Magnets with 20m(64 Foot) Durable Rope,Powerful Magnets for Fishing and Magnetic Recovery Salvage ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYC7R6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SAtpDbYTZXNNH
We used Quakehold brand. Heavier duty than other brands we checked out. Comes in white and black.
I use these. They seem to work well, but I haven't lived through a major Earthquake so we'll see.
Need to get 4 of these. Never have to worry about someone taking your spot and you can put the other car in the craziest places as revenge
I've seen contractors move cars out of the way with these - way less potential damage - they try to only do it when they don't want the cement mixer/flat beds to potentially scrape down the side of your car
Ah, thank you. I thought he meant the pusher.
I found what I assume are the dollies on Amazon for $80 a pop. I think US$300+ is a good value for something you can use on a daily basis here in Michigan.
(Hydraulic dolly)[https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU]
Edit: dammit I can never get that right and it's such a pain to fix on my phone so I'm leaving it.
I wonder if tow truck drivers need to be carrying these [Hydraulic Vehicle Jack Dolly](Hydraulic Vehicle Automotive Moving Jack Dolly - HYDRAULIC Car Dolly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H3TSIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m7hTybVD1DN86) in order to move the vehicle when it has no power.
I think I should get 4x and leave them at home in case I need to move my Tesla when the 12v battery dies.
could possibly buy the wheel dolleys that are hydraulic? Something like these
Could do it on the side away from the wall leaving other side on dolleys?
Just pop one of these on the back tires and push it over.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
Or a friend with a couple of these.
I modeled and analyzed this hand truck.
You could select one part... The plastic wheel, for example. Lots of interesting geometry you could use to be both visually appealing, minimal material, strength and manufacturable. Most of that might be beyond the scope of the class though. Only two points of loading too (well, I guess there are scenarios where you'd have more).
Collapsible hand truck. Magna Cart Personal 150 lb Capacity Aluminum Folding Hand Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ELSjxb8VFWX8H
This is the one I have (this is NOT an affiliate link either) you can get cheaper ones but I wanted to make sure it didn’t fail me when I needed it.
The instacrates you can get from Costco usually, I’ve never not seen them there. Also, they’re only $7.99 at Costco and double that from amazon.. Hope that’s what you were after..
I found these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3SP14/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdb_t1_x_cfyDDbQ33CAKZ
And this which doesn’t have a basket but you can bungee cord things to. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdb_t1_x_OdyDDbRYKJD4V
Hey this was my shipping accessories I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KPW8YWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495113854&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clevermade%2Bcooler%2Bbag&dpPl=1&dpID=51EpcSKOcbL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I use most of this stuff when not working instacart so it's a win win for me.
Alas. I guess I like the idea of a drum truck or hand cart. I got one of these and it's very useful. http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=lp_553520_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1422146592&sr=1-1
Just get one of these. They are VERY strong, and compact. We have two at the office, and I liked them so much I bought one for the house.
In a pinch I used a large hard laundry basket from target to carry a bunch of stands, tripods, skrims, and crap. I have this hardware cart to carry my drum/cymbal stands so I would personally use that for future shoots with lots of hardware since it's available to me already. There's probably a similar cart of some kind: direct from a camera manufacturer might be expensive so get creative with a hand cart like this (I also have that cart to carry around a set of 80-100lb scuba cylinders and it's a beast).
try something like this
Yeah, I'm not going to try that. I've already had a drop scare and I don't think my heart can take another one of those. :)
I'm thinking of purchasing a cart on which I can load up the mount and carry it. I can just use the same box and styrofoam that the mount came with (reinforce the box with duct tape). Load up the box on the cart, and the weights and tripod on top of the box.
It sucks basically. I'm not sure about the registration part, but I think that's if you haven't already bought tickets online and dpn't have your paperwork/passes, etc ready to go.
You definitely want a cart if you have a tower, the first year me and my friends went we finagled my local friend dropping us off and we stayed with his comp at the center (I think that's how that went down, lots of alcohol since and during) and we got an XL Uber to get back home when we were ready to leave the BYOC.
FYI, when we left late at night the main entrances to the convention center were closed, so we had to go out another exit... Down stairs.... That was fun.
Second year was more of the same except I bought a laptop for QuakeCon and this kind of stuff so it was less stressful than lugging a tower and monitor around, but basically you've gotta huff your stuff in someway or another.
I remember sitting out waiting for our turn into the fried chicken place nearby (it's good check it out) and a poor guy was walking down the street carrying a monitor, that's no bueno, you wanna get an uber, a ride or something, just so they can pull up and drop you off at the best entrance.
So yes, get a cart like this like I've used:
https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527810216&sr=8-1&keywords=magna+cart
And plan to have a way to drop you off at the entrance, I for sure didn't want to wheel my tower through the Austin streets and hope nothing pops loose, etc, and breaks on the way.
edit: well from what someone else has said it appears the badges weren't mailed this year, so if I were you I'd plan to get in line for registration with your computer, get your badge, then go on to the BYOC from there. If they do it like QuakeCon does, someone will come down the line and give people tags and stuff for their computers to streamline the process. Good luck!
haha wow, just checked on amazon. Apparently I got this April, 2015 and it still works great for me. It's been used a ton, thrown around, etc and it's still holding up good enough.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the setup I have....was all pretty simple:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UWP07LK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469043771&sr=8-1&keywords=condensate+pump
Expanding on /u/org4nics said, a split system would be good.
A split system is like a central AC unit, it has an outdoor part and an indoor part, but no ducts. You mount the indoor part in the room to cool, connect your pre-manufactured and charged lies, and then hook up your out door part.
Add a drain line to the indoor part, or the basic condensate pump and you have a serious cooling system!
Amazon Split System
Amazon Condensate Pump this is the same pump that my whole house uses!
This would be a condensate pump, and you could hook up a garden hose from your dehumidifier to this pump, and then use some vinyl tubing to bring that out to a utility sink or some other drain– that's how I have mine set up at least.
Look into "self-leveling compound" to fix an uneven concrete floor.
I would assume you dont want to make the floor 100% flat, since there is a drain there. If you can level out any bumps & ripples, ceramic tile would be fine for a floor with a gentle downslope. Tile is used in the floor of showers all the time
Example of a [condensate pump](Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal 1/30 HP Pump with Safety Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v.2IBbME5NADG). I don't know where you're located or local plumbing codes there. But you could look into it draining into a sump pump pit? Or doing a little bit of plumbing work so it can drain into a sewer line? We know sewer line must be accessible in basement because the washer drain goes somewhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Automatic-Condensate/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521259818&sr=8-3&keywords=condensate+pump .
That is a condensate pump. It's got some power to it so it will send the water wherever you want it to go. Get a long piece of tubing and route it from the condensate pump to wherever a good drain is. The same drain your washing machine or dishwasher uses could be an option. Either way, a proper condensate pump is your best solution. Trust me, a good condensate pump is worth the 50 bucks.
That's an interesting thought... kind of curious to see what it would do. I think you'd only run into issues very close to or on top of a magnet. If it were me, I would try positioning your prints in a part of the bed with the least magnets-- they are around the edge and a few in the middle. Study the pics here or get yourself a piece of magnetic viewing film to make it easier to see where those spots are.
Link to the magnetic paper : https://www.amazon.com/Magnetics-Green-Magnetic-Field-Viewing/dp/B000UV6ZPS
It's also not that expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UV6ZPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VaBYCbS1RMHNB
Magnetic Viewing Film
So, interestingly, you can actually see magnetic fields in THREE dimensions. Yeah, 3d. How so? They're called ferrocells. Here's an imgur album http://imgur.com/gallery/xQRYH
I can actually explain how this happens, too. It's called "Field incommensurability." Take a north and south pole of a magnet, they're "located" there right? Nope, if you could split the magnet in half there would be TWO north and TWO south poles on each side of the magnet. Split it again, there will be a north and south pole on each piece, every single time. This is an example of field incommensurability.
Now, when you take that magnetic viewing film and place two magnets side by side you'll see the white plane self-center itself around the two magnets.
What's actually happening is that when a magnet reaches another magnet and comes in contact, it becomes ONE entity - one magnet. So at that end with the singular one it's actually going to a new "end" of the magnet, as the entirety of the magnet becomes one big, long magnet.
Field incommensurability is where fields are non-point-specific, and are not LOCATED at somewhere, they are FORCED there, or are a pressure mediation to that spot. Think of it like water flowing down a hill, it's forced to be at that location.
Here's. The link for anyone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UV6ZPS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=m0494a-20&linkId=854952cfbd8f0399f224d4eaced910b9&language=en_US
CMS Magnetics 4" x 6" Green Magnetic Field Viewing Film
it was less than $10 and totally worth it.
I've found only this and this
are they both fine?
I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DNFP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519579269&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=n52+magnet&dpPl=1&dpID=41Jpmqz7zlL&ref=plSrch
Meh, I bought some polyester tie down straps with aluminum buckles for about six bucks and I use a marlin spike knot to attach my carabiner. Simple, cheap, lightweight. Easy up and down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL4H0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YPCvxbAB283Y2
I used to use similar baskets on the rear rack of my commuting bike. I ignored the metal clips completely during installation and instead used some straps like these because I already had them laying around. I also added a small bungie cord near the bottom to prevent any movement down there. It held the basket on securely. Another option would be to use heavy duty zipties.
I made a pair for myself. It is fairly easy if you look at what a TRX system consists of. Really, all you need is:
The tough part here is the handles. I cut the pvc in 6" segments, used a heat gun to soften the edges and then used a wine bottle to flair out the softened edges so they would not wear on the their straps. Unfortunately I do not have pictures to help explain this (hope it makes sense, let me know if you need more of an explanation). Beyond that it is just tying it up correctly. Here is a simplistic way of doing it. Don't buy a TRX system! It is so easy to replicate. Rings have their advantages for gymnastic exercises, but TRX systems allow for creative core and upper body exercises.
I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.
I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.
Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.
Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.
Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.
It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.
This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.
Well if you do, I have found that ratchet straps were very secure and even the friction type straps like these are more than enough for lumber. I've tried to make the load shift and could not. I was a little surprised by that and really only use the ratchet type for plywood. Especially since the 4' wide sheets leave no extra bar to wrap a strap around. I actually pop the caps off the bar ends and stick the hooks right into the ends.
I really dislike the velcro straps and they'll wear out pretty quick.
Here's a link to the straps shown in the photos. There's enough here to go over 3 times: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NH4POY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heres the straps that I'll be using to replace under the cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the mobile version of your link
I already had them, but it was two of something like this.
wow. holy crap! clearly you have done this before on these cars.
Me too, why didn't I think of getting some bitches to move my stuff, bitches love moving my stuff.
Amazon Link - Forearm Moving Straps
I know a lot of people will tell you to filter what your kids can watch and play (video games) but that is not necessarily true. My mother allowed me to watch whatever I wanted (such as Beavis and Butthead and Nightmare on Elm Street, ect) as a child and I NEVER imitated violence or stupidity because my mother taught me that television is not real life, she taught me there are consequences to the actions you see on TV that they may not show. Her main lesson was "It's in the script." So prevent them from watching inappropriate content if you must, but a better idea is to just teach them the difference between fantasy and real life. Sorry, it's not funny.
Link
I found that these are great, I've moved a lot of heavy and awkward stuff by myself with them, and I'm 65.....
https://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-L74995CN-appliances-mattresses/dp/B008ASBLJI
These Babies Right Here
Got my 36” in my basement without blowing out my or my buddy’s back.
Use these: http://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-Lifting-Moving-L74995CN/dp/B008ASBLJI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412133941&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=lifting+straps
I had to move my 90g to another apt, was able to lift it with water and substrate inside with just 2 people.
edit: not full of water, like 10% full. enough to keep the substrate wet.
Or forearm lift straps. https://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-appliances-mattresses-encourages/dp/B008ASBLJI/
The Forearm Forklift. Don't leave home without it:
https://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-appliances-mattresses-encourages/dp/B008ASBLJI
https://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-appliances-mattresses-encourages/dp/B008ASBLJI
https://www.amazon.com/Forearm-Forklift-L74995CN-appliances-mattresses/dp/B008ASBLJI#immersive-view_1526443416429
I couldn't figure out the best subreddit to ask this question in.
I'll be moving about a dozen or so heavy boxes and totes full of books this weekend out of a house in preparation to list it on the market.
Me and my SO are not big and strong people, and we are looking for any DIY tips to make moving these boxes easier. I've thought about buying a set of Forearm Forklift straps but I'm not sure if those will be too big. The boxes we will be moving are similar to these. They do not have much space for hands to grip around the lid.
Once could use a spade-bit to make a hole to countersink couterbored cup magnets flush with the surface, and then skim them with spackle and paint to match.
CMS Magnetics® Neodymium Round Base Magnet w/Countersunk Hole for#10 Bolt - 70 LBS PULL 1.26" in Dia 2 Ct. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008H40U10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nKuDxb9G02V3K
That's what I'm currently using. If I find 4 of them aren't strong enough I'll be adding a couple more. There are magnet sites where you can get a greater number if stronger magnets cheaper though.
Amazon to the rescue
I know this is old, but I'm currently putting together a drip tray shelf with magnets, and I want to point out to anybody else searching the sub:
The magnets on Amazon are a little more pricey, but they all quote 70+ lbs of pull force. These HD ones only say 5.8 lbs. So cheaper per magnet, sure. But at $8 (for 2 magnets, not per), you can probably use far fewer magnets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H40U10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A25FKZJ6CRADAB
The jury is still out on the magnet that catches the caps, I haven't drank enough since I made them.
To attach to the fridge
To catch the caps
I believe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKVPU08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TZqcub1PK0NW9 are equivalent; I don't have their sizes committed to memory. I use this size as gear clips for lanyards, my keys are on a locking #2.
I like the #3 and 4 niteize locking s biners. Very useful for keys, small tools, flashlights and come in handy around the campsite. They have 2 locking types. Buy these not this locking type.
https://www.amazon.ca/LSBM-01-2R3-S-Biner-Micro-Black-2-Pack/dp/B00BKVPU08
These clips will also work as well. I got mine from Home Depot for 5$ or so.
I love S binders and have found a few uses of them for my puppy. I use a micro one for all his tags so I can easily switch them between collars, plus it is locking! A larger one is used as a backup for his harness. It also works great to keep his light up collar in place.
I tied the paracord, but the clips can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKVPU08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iYOPDbWGHM8V5
I use a cheap paracord one from Amazon with a small locking s-shaped carabiner (also from Amazon). It's 10x as secure as a generic lanyard, as good as the fancy ones like Peak Design (if not as easy to change out) but cost me like $10 total.
$6 landyard
Small 2-pack of S-biners
If you're using a compact camera you don't need the strongest stuff out there too, so keep that in mind
They do a micro s-biner that has a locking mechanism which would be the perfect size for your SAK and light. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BKVPU08?pc_redir=1412271356&amp;amp;robot_redir=1
I use one and the lock is great. Works very well.
Looks like a mall Locking NiteIze S-Biner.
I just uploaded it to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:738368. Didn't realize anyone else would want to print these!
This is the cart I'm using - WEN 73002. I replaced the wheels with soft pads to stabilize the cart but still allow it to be moved around on hardwood floors. Slapped one of these magnetic tool holder racks on the side and threw a couple of those bins on the front and I've been very happy with this cart. I still need to add some shelves underneath for my overflowing pile of filament, scraps, etc and I'll be all set.
https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-Multi-Position-Heavy-Folding/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Do you think this dolly will be able to hold 4 small-medium size CRTs?
edit: The CRTs are 14inch screens
Oh also save ur back and buy this cart. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
these are pointless to have. when you have big orders (or big items like cases of water, toilet paper and paper towel) those things will take up space and you'll be thinking about where to put them. if you got 2 orders you simply use two carts to make it easier. if the second order is small enough to fit in the top and bottom of the cart then you only need one cart. if you got 3 orders you put the smaller order on the top and bottom of two carts and the other two orders in each cart. it's not rocket science.
if you want to spend money on equipment your better off buying a few of these in different colors (i have two of each color for a total of 6) and a dolly like this
I use this $60 one from Cosco, very sturdy and folds flat for travel. 2 positions for carrying things too. I had the $25 Milwaukee one but it seemed too flimsy to me... Especially when the wheel broke in two
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=asc_df_B00LMH8CCS5358832/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B00LMH8CCS&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167155426463&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=12397818332481193115&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9060332&amp;hvtargid=pla-273341047615
This one is popular with Flex drivers but cheaper elsewhere.
Another option is to get a little dolly and use that. pad the metal part of the dolly with some sort of cloth.
https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-Multi-Position-Heavy-Folding/dp/B00LMH8CCS/
This is the best...
https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-300-Pound-Capacity-Multi-Position/dp/B00LMH8CCS
Keep a few bungee cords and nets handy and you're set. Best of all it folds so well it won't take space in your car.
not quite a granny cart, but i got this one recently and it's been fantastic for hauling stuff around
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS
I guess it also depends on how robust you want it, or if you want a warranty (I bet lots of the price on those things is just warranty protection).
You could buy a dolly off Amazon for $50, strap a $100 bag to it, and call it a day: https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-Multi-Position-Heavy-Folding/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492626619&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dolly
https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-85-188-Collapsible-Service/dp/B00M0V5PWA
I use this for my minis to set up before deployment
If I was in your position I would get myself a rolling tool cart. It would make transporting all your tools and equipment easy and gives you a place to keep all of that organized. Since you live in an apartment, I assume space is somewhat of a concern. Here's a neat folding cart on Amazon that would probably suffice.
We have this fold up cart. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0V5PWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Start doing exercises to strengthen your core. It should help out a lot.
There are also some products designed for lifting drywall.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Gripper-ROU32630-Advantage/dp/B01F738PCE/ref=asc_df_B01F738PCE/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=241899084459&amp;hvpos=1o19&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=2977423245274776366&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9004729&amp;hvtargid=pla-379474389359&amp;psc=1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Panel-Carry-Orange-93-300K/202262083?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CVF%7CD25T%7C25-9_Hand_Tools%7CNA%7CStanley_Tools%7CLIA|71700000056159736|58700005250830958|92700046420532258&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw_OzrBRDmARIsAAIdQ_Jrwl02aWztaBM1mz56EhahP4t48ma44jxtDdawL_tkhOGvXIyEDSAaAhoeEALw_wcB
I don't know how much these will help with what you're doing though, and I've never actually used them lol.
Gorilla Gripper 'Advantage' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F738PCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-F7SBbYBACKX7
This is the magnet I got and I like it quite well. Excellent for an entry and mid level fishing magnet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPZ42OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOvTBbS46NH6E is what I use plus paracord. No permits needed in most places.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JPZ42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498398608&amp;sr=8-16&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=CMS+Magnetics
Using a vivosun 195 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ got mine on fleabay. It's ok, I don't know if its bearings or bushings, its quiet ish. Cheap as fuck, the casing has no seal so it leaks, I fixed by using metal duct tape on the joint. 195 cfm is the unrestricted flow from the outlet. So after resistance of the ducting its reduced. Also the resistance of the filter (has to push or pull through) it drops even more. I'm 2x3 x 6.5, on hot days I dont get the airflow so I had to put in a second extract. I expect colder weather will be perfect for it in my particular circumstances.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KXHCK3
pot growers run these for years at a time... literally non stop 24/7 for years.
if you need to duct any of it, you can use dryer hose for the outlet, but get something more rigid for the intake so it doesnt collapse.
Sorry it should be inline fan
Here is one
VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1vfrDb7H5Y14V
So really this should do the trick?
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Duct/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509647629&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=vivosun+fan
So I made this thread recently about a clone I bought on 4/20/19.
&#x200B;
Now, a bit of time has passed and it's grown a bit more, but unfortunately still under very inadequate lighting. The temp and humidity were wrong this entire time, but I seem to have stabilized that. I plan on ordering this grow tent, just ordered this LED light, and am looking at this (or this) in combination with this to bring it all together. Anyone see any reason why this wouldn't be enough?
I wouldn't sleep while it's running. But the one you linked won't ship to me.
But i found a similarly powered exhaust fan.
This one
I've already found tubing and a filter to use.
As for noise I also have a FDM printer in my room that I run occasionally, so I'm sort of conditioned to it.
It’s possible because there is no airflow, also it will cool your tent down. I bought 2 fans and some 4” ducting from amazon and probably paid about $50.
Here is a link if you would like to check them out.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=grow+tent+fan&amp;qid=1569681479&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
How many of your side vents are open? Do you have any fans inside your tent moving air around? I have a 4 in PVC pipe that is inserted into one of the 4 inch opening in my 3x3, to allow unrestricted air into my tent.
For 25 dollars, you could buy one of these, and have it pull fresh air in.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-aW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=intake+fan&pd_rd_i=B01M7S46YZ&pd_rd_r=5d336609-c5ad-445b-a21f-c89c781d81f7&pd_rd_w=BhXBo&pd_rd_wg=CXN0U&pf_rd_p=2938a786-9bec-4d37-8c06-456e3edce5d1&pf_rd_r=V4C0YMY222M5QAW6T1EB&psc=1&qid=1570843257
Where to start with my update.
I began collecting the parts for the controller. I am using a BME280 for the temp and humidity sensor, this little screen for reading conditions at the chamber, 8 channel relay to control the various electronics, this fan and this filter for fresh air.
Here is an album of updated photos. The first is a blast gate controlled by a servo to control the fresh air flow. When the fan turns on the servo will open the gate and allow the fan to suck air out (more on that later). Next up is the freezer with the collar on. Its not put together properly yet but just a rough test fit shows its looking good. Then I have two inside shots of the chamber itself.
After talking with someone who understands air flow much better than I do, I changed the position of fan and filter as well as direction. The fan is going to suck air out from one side and the other will have the filter on it. This will keep the lid down, where as if the fan pumped air in it could lead to a pressure build up and the lid may crack open slightly. The elbows are put in so its not just the top air that is circulating. I am thinking of turning them so they don't point straight down but for now its good.
The inside shot show the slots made to hold up to 7 bars. I am going to seal in the collar with a piece of wood on the top then fill it with spray foam insulation and silicone it to the freezer.
The other thing that has changed since I last posted was that I was going to try to do the code myself. As I got parts in and tried to put something together it became clear there is no way I can do it. After searching around I put out a bid on upwork.com and now I am working with a friendly fellow from Nepal. We haven't gotten to far but I am excited by his proposal and he will be adding the ability for me to control it from a webpage.
Anyway that is it for now. I can see there isn't much activity on this post or another related post but I am going to follow through with the updates because in my searches for this project I cam across a lot of half finished ideas and projects. RemindMe! 2 months
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M7S46YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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bought this with some duct and a carbon filter
Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.
Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.
Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.
Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.
If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.
Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517603237&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.
Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.
I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.
The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:
Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)
The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.
Approximate substitutes to show variability:
Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)
Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)
The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.
This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".
Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.
Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.
Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.
From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.
Do this for three magnets.
Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.
Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.
Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.
If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.
If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.
Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.
The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.
This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.
If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.
This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.
Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.
Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.
Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.
If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.
Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.
Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.
Restring, and it's fixed!
Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.
I like magnets and metal tools. Things just stay in place. Like this
something like this. good for keeping something in place. Just something to think when making things that hold tools. They are pretty cheap and do well in a ton of situations. one of those discs holds at least 10lb hammer they have smaller and thinner ones that work well for smaller stuff. Take a look
You can also order dynamags separately from dynavap or find a similar magnet (here are several on amazon with stickers on one side for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M ) and there are also other sizes/shapes available of that type of magnet on amazon.I also saw someone else mentioning that you can get several for 2 or 3 bucks from Harbor Freight if you have that store nearby. Grab some magnets and improvise something. :)
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[Edit -- the key for any magnet is "diametrically magnetized" and I admit I didn't verify that terminology when I mentioned the magnets above, except for the dynamag itself. But amazon has them for certain.]
https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527330981&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527331185&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527331163&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.
Thanks! I bought this one. This a good one for first timers? Just discovered this today and want to give it a shot. Mutuactor Fishing Magnets 350lbs Pull Force,Strong Retrieval Magnet N52 Neodymium Magnets with 20m(64 Foot) Durable Rope,Powerful Magnets for Fishing and Magnetic Recovery Salvage ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYC7R6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aiTlDbEMPMKT2
refhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYC7R6S/=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SAtpDbYTZXNNH
Are you retarded? It is not the size of a quarter, it is this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutuactor-Retrieval-Neodymium-Powerful-Magnetic/dp/B07MYC7R6S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fishing+magnet&amp;qid=1556807034&amp;s=hi&amp;sr=1-3