Best internal fans & cooling components according to redditors

We found 13,666 Reddit comments discussing the best internal fans & cooling components. We ranked the 2,497 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Cpu cooling fans
Computer fan grills
Graphics card fans
Liquid cooling systems
Internal hard drive cooling fans

Top Reddit comments about Internal Fans & Cooling Components:

u/WorkingISwear · 197 pointsr/battlestations

Full list with links to everything shown here (and some stuff not shown). Please let me know if I've missed anything or if you have any questions.

PC Specs

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
Processor| Intel i7-8700k | Amazon | $355
Graphics Card| MSI GEFORCE GTX1080 TI GAMING X 11G| Amazon | $1,000
RAM | G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200 MHZ | Amazon | $90
Motherboard | ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming | Amazon | $350
SSD | Samsung SSD 960 EVO 1TB NVMe | Amazon | $300
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500GB | Amazon | $130
AIO | Corsair H110i V2 | Amazon | $120
Case | Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic | Amazon | $130
PSU | EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 | Amazon | $100
Fans | Corsair LL 120 | Amazon | $220
Drawers | Ikea Alex | Ikea | $90

The rest of the stuff

Item | Make/model | Link | Price
Desk | Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk | Jarvis | $752

Chair | Herman Miller Embody | Amazon | $1,400
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Monitor | ASUS PG279Q | Amazon | $610
Desk Mat | Godspeed Reverse Panda | Novelkeys | $20
Mouse | Glorious Model O Matte White | Glorious | $50
Keyboard | Tofu65 w/ Gateron Browns | KBDFans | $200
Keycaps | MT3 Godspeed | Drop | $150

Dock | Caldigit TS3 | Amazon | $280
Speakers | Audioengine A2+ | Amazon | $300
Speaker Stands | Kanto S6W | Amazon | $60
Webcam | Logitech C922x | Amazon | $83
Monitor Arm | Jarvis Dual Monitor Arm in White | Jarvis | $160
Desk Backlight | Philips Hue Light Strip | Amazon | $90
Main Lights | Nanoleaf Light Panels | Nanoleaf | $550
Headphones | Hyperx Cloud Flight | Amazon | $135
VR | Oculus Quest | Amazon | $500
Headphones | Sony WH1000XM3 | Amazon | $275
Headphones | Master & Dynamic MH40 | Amazon | $250

Wallpaper Engine Link

price as configured

Some or all items not pictured here but are part of the setup

u/edgan · 81 pointsr/DataHoarder

Raw storage:

u/Mastagon · 59 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
[ATH-M50x Headphones] ( |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] ( |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] ( |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] ( |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] ( | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] ( | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] ( | was $200, now $99

Earbuds| Price
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] ( | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] ( | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] ( | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] ( |was $43, now $26

CPU Coolers| Price
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] ( |$110. Historic [all time low] (
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] ( |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] ( | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (

PSU| Price
[Corsair CS650M] ( |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (

Cases| Price
[Corsair 780T full atx case] ( | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] ( but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] ( |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] ( | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] ( | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] ( | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (

Input Devices| Price
[Logitech G13 input pad] ( | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] ( | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (

Networking| Price
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] ( | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] ( | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
[Logitech C922x Webcam] ( | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] ( | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] ( | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] ( | was $224, now $125

I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.


EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!


EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal


EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


u/nataku411 · 52 pointsr/gamingpc

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

u/geerlingguy · 40 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Haha, looked it up:

Only a little bit of overkill!

u/beepbeepimmmajeep · 39 pointsr/delusionalcraigslist

"I priced everything out online and this is what it's worth" suuurrreee....

u/MahnAtWork · 30 pointsr/buildapcsales

Regular NH-L9i is $10 less and has that genuine Noctua look of quality.

u/Fidler_2K · 26 pointsr/buildapcsales

This case is really great for a Ryzen 2200G or 2400G build. It was completely out of stock at every retailer in the US but Microcenter has it in stock now with a discount. If you do pick it up in store don't forget to use the $5 off $30 discount:

If you do decide to go with this case I recommend the Noctua NH-L9i, it's a really great low profile cooler that fits nicely in this case:

Edit: this case is $99.00 on Amazon and I believe it was that price on Newegg before it sold out. So this is a pretty solid sale.
Link to Amazon listing:

u/Portbragger2 · 24 pointsr/Amd

> AM4 bracket not included. Please visit the Ryzen page on the Corsair website to order a free AM4 retention bracket.

Compatibility -Intel™ LGA 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011 and 2011-3 AMD™ sockets FM1, FM2, AM2, AM3, and AM4

u/Kyrond · 22 pointsr/buildapc

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

u/Dragnerok_X · 18 pointsr/lowendgaming

I wouldn't call that a deal; I'd call that a scam. Notice that the seller is "Just Launched", is asking $20 less than the competition, and most importantly has no buyer feedback.

u/VRFour · 16 pointsr/buildapc

As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).

You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.

u/Alexlam24 · 14 pointsr/tifu

Either get a new battery or try reapplying the thermal solution. This should be perfect for no hassle. Just keep hand oils off it.

u/CIockwerk · 14 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

  1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
  2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
  3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
  4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
  5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
  6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.

    So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!
u/goblinrum · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Basically a generic fan. You could do better buying the arctic f12 pwm 5 pack for a bit more, you get better acoustics and PWM functionality.

u/PolarStreams · 12 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

There are a few things that need to be considered when you are experiencing performance issues. The first thing I would do is make sure it isnt just CS:GO. Play another game and see if you experience any performance issues.

If you do not, I would recommend verifying integrity of game files, then restarting your PC and seeing if that does anything.

If you do experience performance issues outside of CS as well, there is a multitude of problems you could be experiencing. Since the 7700k and the 1080 both run hot, you need to make sure you are cooling them properly. If you are running the stock Intel cooler, I wouldn't be surprised if you were thermal throttling your CPU.

Here are 2 great cooling solutions in the case you need to replace the stock Intel cooler:

  • AIO (Water Cooling)

  • Heat Sink (Air Cooling)

    Just be sure to get a cooler that your motherboard supports (in your case, one that supports Z270)

    Other things I can suggest:

  • Reinstalling the game
  • Cleaning out your case
  • De-fragmenting hard drive (Not SSD)
  • Checking for damaged/dead hardware

    If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to assist you.
u/dramamoose · 11 pointsr/paradoxplaza

Those first three games are likely CPU limited while Rainbow Six is probably GPU limited. My immediate thought is overheating. Use a temperature monitoring software to check the temperature on your CPU. If it's high, consider cleaning out your CPU fan or replacing the thermal paste on your fan.

If you don't have one, I'd suggest getting an after-market CPU cooler. The Cooler Master 212 is what I use and I've always been extremely satisfied with the results. With the 4590 you won't have much room to overclock, but it will guarantee you aren't running into any thermal problems.

u/similar_observation · 11 pointsr/sffpc

the smallest I know off the top of my head is the bitty-baby 40mm

u/ferhanmm · 11 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's actually one of the 8 pieces from the noctua fan. Mine fell off too.

u/cautiouslyoptimistic · 11 pointsr/buildapc
u/UsernameWasBoring · 11 pointsr/brasil

EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.

O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5

Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.

Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).

EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:

u/mathematical · 10 pointsr/buildapc

This seems like the perfect excuse to upgrade to a Hyper 212.

u/youllneverfindme3 · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

One of the best air coolers out there! Didn't wanna deal with water cooling issues.

It's actually one of the ugliest coolers stock LOL, but you can pimp it out with their Chromax line:



u/PhamQu · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

May I suggest that you switch out the low profile Noctua cooler for the [Cryorig H7]?
It'd offer cooler temps at a lower noise, and looks great, in my opinion.

Other than that, impressive build!

u/z0nk_ · 9 pointsr/pcgaming

I use this silverstone fan hub and just have my motherboard control the fans. Its even slim enough to stick between the back of the motherboard and rear panel on my S340. Most OEMs also have software that allows more fan control than what the BIOS can do.

I have a Kraken x62 and I've installed and messed around with CAM, but it is a terrible piece of software even compared to something like Corsair LINK. The default pump behavior works well enough so I don't even use CAM anymore.

u/votebleach2020 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I highly recommend this one: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

u/Cyclonite · 9 pointsr/3Dprinting

If it helps, I bought the MonoPrice Maker Select a few months ago. I absolutely love tinkering, so it was perfect for me. I have had more fun figuring out what's going on. It took some time and effort, but I now have a solid printer (relatively speaking, as it's my first printer). :)

If you do end up going with this printer, I recommend searching for standard duplicator i3 mods. It's essentially the same, but already has some decent upgrades, such as the x-axis dampers. Here are the mods that have made a huge difference for me:

  • Z Braces - This has, by far, made the biggest difference in my prints. The printer is super solid now, and made my bed considerably more level.
  • Glass Bed - My experience has been that the aluminum bed is a little too thin and flexes more than I'd like, creating an uneven surface. This helps offset that. You'll need to move your z-stop up, though. There are already screw-holes that should work for this. I also used a few thermal pads under the bed at each corner.
  • This is a really good post for the rest of the things I looked at. Make sure that if you do anything, it hasn't already been done by the manufacturer.

    Overall, I'm super happy with the $350 + $50-$75 I've spent on the printer. It does a pretty damn good job. I've certainly learned that it requires patience, knowledge, and tweaking to create the prints you want. Take this as you will, though. It's my first printer. Still saving for something higher end. :)

    A couple other nice-to-haves:

  • Blower fan mod - Had to turn my fan speed down significantly in my slicer to prevent the hot-end from cooling too much too quickly, but it cools all around the plastic instead of from one direction.
  • Four of these in combination with some M3 nylocks are fantastic. You'll hurt your fingers screwing them on, but once in place, they really help in fine-tuning your bed-leveling. When you print them, I recommend starting with a lighter filament, and pausing to switch to a darker filament just as the numbers start forming. It gives it a nice look, and makes it a little easier to see the movement.
u/giantfood · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

1 gallon = 3,785.4118 grams. Simplify to 3,785.4 grams

Artic silver Thermal paste costs $6.10 for 3.5 grams

3,785.4 x 51 = 193,055.4 grams.

193,055.4 / 3.5 = 55,158.68 tubes of thermal paste. Simplify to 55,159 as you cant buy 6/10 of a tube.

55,159 x $6.10 = $336,469.90 Considerable amount more for Artic silver thermal paste then a GPU.

Granted this is using a specific type of paste, you can buy mobiltherm 5 gallons for $112.00 but that is not designed for PC use, tho it would probably work.

u/boxsterguy · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes, and it's $10 cheaper.

(yes, I get the joke. But Noctua brown is sexier than Noctua black, and the brown is a better deal anyway. Literally the only difference between the two is this one looks better.)

u/officernasty13 · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/OurJesuitPaymasters · 8 pointsr/sffpc

this is the fan

the fan comes with crimps so you can cut the existing fan in the psu and crimp all 3 cables with the noctua fan.

u/wacind · 8 pointsr/htpc

yea see if you can fit 80mm fans to the drilled sides like /u/relikborg suggested. Also you may want to see if you can replace your stock cpu cooler with some other low profile cooler like this
or this if they fit

u/Thatisdifficult · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I highly recommend both the $56 Macho X2 and the $47 Scythe Fuma air coolers.

They are both roughly half the price of the popular $90 Noctua NH-D15 and perform almost just as well. These coolers are pretty powerful and even go toe-to-toe with some high-end liquid coolers. They are also both relatively quiet coolers too; bang for the buck is very high for these two products.

Just make sure they actually fit your PC case.

u/Alakazam · 7 pointsr/buildapc

Spend a bit extra and get a Noctua heatsink/fan. This is seriously good.

This, however, beats out even AIO water cooling solutions.

u/TIFUbyResponding · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales


Paired with

They're decent fans (quiet, move air, but they're not HOLYSHITTHEBEST), and the white will reflect the RGB from the halos. Plus it's all controllable via Asus/MSI/Gigabyte/Asrock's RGB control on the motherboard (or via a Phanteks' case).

u/EddyScanlan · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Difference between P series (the fans posted) and F series, which are $1 cheaper:

u/Zear-0 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Mine had a noisy fan out of the box so I just took it apart and replaced the fan with a nice noctua the same day This one

u/DZCreeper · 7 pointsr/hardware

Not the same idea, but works just as well for cooling. It is such a good design that it actually beats stuff like the EVGA FTW3 cards and comes close to using a 120mm AIO. The Raijintek Morpheus II is similar for cooling but costs more and also takes up more space so I rarely recommend it.

u/burritohead · 7 pointsr/PS4

I've got a couple of these mounted to the top, guiding hot air up and out of the rack. They are always-on and powered by the 360's rear USB port. There are some vents on the bottom and sides as well.

u/Evil_Potatos · 7 pointsr/Amd

Don't need thermal paste use graphite! It never dries out. Absolutly no mess never need to reapply and clean it. You cant screw it up no more putting to little or too much on. Best part is it dropped my temps by 2c over thermal grizzley kyronaut.

u/jakehewison · 6 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

Doubt you'll get £90+10 as it's only £102 brand new off Amazon with prime. Generally, used they tend to go for around £60 so you could expect £70-80 IMHO.

u/ultimahwhat · 6 pointsr/buildapc

If you are gaming at 1080p AND want to be relevant for future games, maybe it would make more sense to get something like a gtx 970/r9 390 for now while waiting to see what next gen cards look like this fall. Could save 300+ dollars and put it towards a monster cooler instead. GPUs are the flavor of the year; a good cooler can be timeless.

u/bedintruder · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

40mm, the onboard APUs on my mini itx HTPC's have these on the heatsink.

I actually replaced them with the 40mm Noctua fans.

u/lovelyspecimen · 6 pointsr/CR10
u/OpticalNecessity · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.

As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
u/zyck_titan · 6 pointsr/hardware

There are a couple ways to improve performance, but I think the problem is that it's so expensive to produce, due to the tight tolerances required, that it's really more of a novelty than a competitive product.

Every other cooler in the video is cheaper than the Engine 27

Engine 27




Silverstone AR06


To improve performance they could;

  1. Integrate a vapor chamber into the base of the cooler

  2. Machine a denser fin array onto the spinning fansink

  3. Make the whole cooler, fansink and outer heatsink, taller. Another 10mm wouldn't hurt compatibility with most applications.

    All of these modifications are going to increase the price, and may or may not bring it into competitiveness with these less expensive coolers.
u/Lord0fgames · 6 pointsr/Warthunder

Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.

For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.

Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.

Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40

8GB of ram is just over $40.

u/LeSchmall · 6 pointsr/Amd

There's 611 Reviews here you can look at.

Or if you've got no life... there's 3,227 reviews here you can peruse at your leisure.

u/xavierthegreat · 6 pointsr/CableManagement

Good work, your cable management is excellent!

I have a couple of recommendations for you build:

I'd recommend buying a new CPU cooler when you can. The Intel ones are good, but there are so many better ones on the market.

Try this one - I used it in my build for like 3 years. Keeps temps down and fans quiet.

Another thing you may consider is an SSD. You'd be surprised by how cheap they are right now. Here is a 480Gb SSD for only $118 USD.

And as /u/nolo_me said, definitely flip that PSU if it's not too much trouble. Better performance, better sound, better temps.

u/dpayne360 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Was in the same situation as you and just bought 3 of these from Amazon. Should be delivered today, and should be easy peasy to install.

u/red286 · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I'd either add an extra fan to the rear, or move one of the front fans to the rear. It's a weird config they went with on that, but I guess the point was to show off the mesh front.

>What low budget cooler would you recommend?

The Wraith Prism that it ships with is probably fine unless you're planning to overclock, in which case I wouldn't go for a "budget cooler". Something like the Noctua NH-U12S would be a good choice.

u/remembertosmilebot · 6 pointsr/sffpc

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/nbmtx · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I use one of these hubs in my ITX build (more for cable management than necessity). It uses SATA power which is handy.

u/zonedguy · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage:

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

  • 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.

  • 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.

    Additional parts I used:

  • An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!

  • Power splitters: One & Two

  • Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  • Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS

    More inspiration can be found here:
u/InsertNickname · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Without question the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. You can get it for 30$, and there's simply nothing that can compete with it in value.

u/BrownBear212 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This will help a bit

Also, make sure to use Intel Burn Test, Aida64, Prime95. I use all of these while I was OC'ing, you should stress test with each program for around 1-2 hours and do around a hundred runs of IBT. Do not run these programs at the same time! Make sure you have a good cooler! I'd recommend:

Air cooler - CM Hyper 212 Evo I have this one, amazing bang for your buck.

Noctua NH-D15

AIO Water coolers - NZXT Kraken X61

Corsair H100i

I'd recommend getting a temperature app like Real temp, but it has been known to be a bit wrong (check your motherboard for temps and the idle temperature will be different) As a safety precaution I always made sure my CPU's temp stayed under 80°C (give myself a good 10°C) Anyway, try and run your chip on a 1.25V at 46X multiplier and if it boots to windows you've got a average chip, if it keeps BSODing drop the multiplier/raise the voltage or do both, then just fine tune it.

It took me a good 7 hours to do my first OC (i5 4670K 4.5GHz @ 1.232V) it's not been optimised yet, anyway good luck and have fun overclocking!

u/saadistic16 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get a much better deal than that getting the parts yourself.

  • 8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws = $44
  • Cooler Master 912 Case = $50 microcenter
  • XFX 750w Black Edition = $115 amazon ($120 - 40 MIR @ microcenter if you can find it)
  • Cooler Master 212+ CPU cooler = $20
  • Seagate Momentus XT 500GB SSD Hybrid - $90
  • EVGA 560 ti = $215
  • i5 2500k = 179.99 @ Microcenter
  • ASRock P67 Ext 4 Gen 3 = 165-50 instant combo w/ 2500k = $115

    Total = $815 bux (before tax for in store items)

    edit: i put that list together real quick - you could probably find better deals for the video card if you look around. That's the exact same build I got except I went with the 560 ti 448. You dont need i7 either the 2500k = 2600k minus HT. 2500k is pretty much all the power you need for a kick ass machine.
u/veni-veni-veni · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Successfully used the promo on a 'like new' Noctua NH-D14 cpu cooler for $51 before taxes.

u/klmx30302 · 5 pointsr/homelab this is probably going to be a better all around fan. Slightly more airflow, quieter, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing.

u/EpicBattleMage · 5 pointsr/buildapc

How low do you need to go? This low?

u/theotherdanlynch · 5 pointsr/buildapc

> Despite being a bad time to build a PC

Be brave! It's a GREAT time to build a PC! It's just a really crappy time to pay for the parts. Good luck, you'll have a blast.

Order a set of these. Gotta be the number one annoyance when building. Maybe one of these too. They're cheap and handy.

Hitachi's drive business (HGST) is now owned by Western Digital, and yet HGST drives still substantially outperform WD for reliability and cost less. That's gotta be awkward at the company Christmas party.

The 860 EVO is a newer model SSD than the 850 EVO. Longer life, etc., and costs a bit less. If you're lazy like me, get the M.2 version rather then the 2.5" so it mounts directly to the motherboard rather than having to muck round running power/sata to the drive.

Good choice on getting the full version of Windows rather than the OEM version. The potential headaches aren't worth the $30 difference.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $333.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $147.32 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | EVGA - Z370 FTW ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.06 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $196.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi - HGST Ultra 8TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $317.89 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $515.00 @ Newegg Marketplace
Case | NZXT - H700i ATX Mid Tower Case | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic - PRIME Titanium 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply |-
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit | $119.00 @ Newegg Business
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2157.24
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-19 15:17 EDT-0400 |

u/foxy_mountain · 5 pointsr/Amd

I did a lot of research on Carbonaut and IC Graphite, and almost all the (professional) reviews put the IC Graphite a tad ahead of Carbonaut. But I believe this stems from mounting pressure, or lack thereof. The performance of the Carbonaut scales with mounting pressure, and my suspicion from reading reviews, is that in most cases, and with most types of cooling solutions, the average Joe like myself, won't achieve the mounting pressure needed to make the Carbonaut shine and outperform the IC Graphite.

Another thing to consider, is that, although Carbonaut has excellent thermal conductivity in the Z axis (from the IHS towards the heat sink), it doesn't have as good thermal conductivity in the two other axis as the IC Graphite does. This is because the Carbonaut has fibers, and these fibers are aligned in the Z axis specifically to make it most efficient in that axis. So it seems the IC Graphite is better at dealing with small hot-spots. If you look at images of the 3900X without the IHS, the two CCX dies are tiny in area compared to the total area of the IHS. The CCX dies are two hot-spots.

As for the customer reviews, I found that the IC Graphite not only has a lot more reviews (e.g. larger sample size), but it has much better customer reviews as well:

u/e-racer · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I know that feel bro, I had a AMD Phenom II x4 965BE that also ran at 125W. After upgrading to a Hyper 212 sound and noise were no longer an issue, (just size was, and I went without my stock case side panel the whole summer, lel)

Here is a $20 cpu cooler
And a comparison to the stock cooler on the fx 8350:

Or if you have $35 you can get the Hyper 212: , its better performance and almost silent for me (its been with my phenom and now its with my intel)

u/thefeeltrain · 5 pointsr/installation01

Use eBay.

u/SirLazarus · 5 pointsr/buildapc

can I just switch the fan on my 212 evo with this noctua fan or any other 120mm noctua fans?

edit: follow up question, is it gonna be noticeably quieter ?

u/clanggedin · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I NEVER have had my glass move on me in 3 years of printing. If you use gino pads it will never move on you.

u/Bdksosknanana · 5 pointsr/Cinema4D

I'll just preface this by saying I spent a lot of time browsing the Octane Render forums when I was trying to figure out my build. I don't have links to any threads but there are plenty there discussing system requirements for the renderer.

These are just some of the glaring mistakes. I would recommend you spend way more time researching parts as it is clear that you have spent very little time doing so. It took me around a week of extensive researching to put my build together. Expect to spend the same time doing so.

Get a Noctua cooler. Look at the Amazon review breakdown of this one. 92% 5-star reviews our of 409 reviews. I'm not sure if this one will fit for you though.

You're wasting money on that memory. Your motherboard only supports up to 3200 MHz memory. Your CPU only supports up to 2133 MHz.

Get this memory instead.

ASUS has a new version of your motherboard anyway. I wouldn't buy the old one.

Do you need the Deluxe? Look at the non-Deluxe version below.

If you're using Octane you could use up to 4 video cards with a different motherboard.

Although, if you went that route you would have to do liquid cooling and it would probably only fit in the biggest CaseLabs case. A system like that would run you over $10,000. Such a system would only be necessary if you were working and rendering by yourself on a single system. If that is not the case, 2 cards will suit you just fine.

Western Drives are more reliable. Read the Amazon reviews of this one.

The choice of power supply is great.

If I was going to do an air cooled system, I would go with this case. I'm not sure if you need it though.


With all that money you're saving on memory you could get a better CPU.

This CPU supports up to 2400 MHz memory, meaning you could also upgrade your memory.

I'm not sure about the case or how you're cooling the GPUs. I know from researching on the Octane forums that anything above 2 cards needs to be water cooled otherwise your cards will overheat and you will lose performance. Look into the founders edition because of its blower-style cooler.


I forgot to mention that when I was looking into this for myself I was trying to build a system for animation. If you're only using Octane for stills 2 cards will be great.

u/tehoniehtathe29 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

These fans are pretty good.

Basically positive and negative pressure means is more air entering or leaving the case, and the best solution varies case to case, but fans in the front as intake, and fans in the back as exhaust are a tried and true impossible to fuck up solution to airflow.

u/melancholyway · 5 pointsr/Amd

Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.

But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.

Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.

Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it

2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel

Wifi Pci card over usb wifi

Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard

u/spicedpumpkins · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I am almost certain many air coolers at this price point will outperform this AIO.

The cryorig H7 is on sale right now for $35 and I am pretty sure it will stomp this cooler any day of the week.

u/cf18 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

But we frequently get extra $10 rebate on the 212 EVO if you wait.

u/Titan285k · 5 pointsr/hardwareswap

The H7 is $35 from newegg my friend

Also $35 shipped from amazon

u/Stevonius · 5 pointsr/gaming

Yeah, I got a GTX1080 and a i7-7700K(neither of which are over-clocked at the moment), but my cooler is the relatively inexpensive CRYORIG H7( I based my build off of a freind's build (which is why I went with that particular cooler), but he got a GTX-1070 and an i5-6600K for his build, so I guess when I went for the 1080/i7-7700k upgrades I probably should have gotten a better cooler as well. This was the first time I had ever built a PC, and going with a liquid-cooling system just seemed out of my league at the moment.

u/jelloBadger · 5 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

You could do this + this. If you've only got 2 fans, then the one you linked + the power supply I linked would work.

u/minecart123 · 5 pointsr/SBU

In op's defense here are some prices I found online.

Processor ($339.99):

Graphics Card ($550.83):

RAM ($129.99): (EDIT: made a mistake with ram. Previous was DDR3)

PSU ($56.99):

CPU Cooler ($29.99):

SSD ($55.99):

HDD ($45.99):

339.99+550.83+129.99+56.99+29.99+55.99+45.99=$1209.77 (EDIT:Made a mistake with calculation and also want to note these all are found through quick searches and most don't look like top quality products. What op has is probably priced a bit more than all these parts. Also click on the frickin pc part picker on the post.) without case, monitor, and motherboard included. It is quite a steal in my opinion. By the way op are you wiling to sell just your CPU cooler to me? What would you price it at?

u/chrassc · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Your cooler is just a fan, get the CM Hyper 212 EVO. Your motherboard is incompatible with the processor, get the MSI H81M-P33. Your harddrive is a slow spinny spinny, get the WD Caviar Blue. Your graphics card/cpu is unbalanced, either downgrade the processor to the Intel i3-4160, or upgrade the graphics card to a GTX 960 or R9 380.

Edit: No aftermarket cooler with the i3-4160.

u/ConorTheCreator · 5 pointsr/gaming

What are you going to do with your PC? If it's just gaming then an i7 is a bit overkill. I'd recommend the FX 8350 with this build and if you want to overclock, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler. And you're right, it would be a great gift!

u/CrisKrossed · 5 pointsr/buildapc

My motherboard only has one system fan header, but I have two system fans. Would I be able to use something like this to safely use both case fans that come with my corsair 350d? I have this motherboard. I can't find the amp values for the case fans, and don't want to fry/melt the on board fan header from the initial power draw.

u/kiwiandapple · 5 pointsr/buildapcforme

Just ever so slightly over your budget, but it got all shipping costs included and no mail-in rebates.

Just to quickly point out a couple of things:

  • The Xeon E3-1231V3 is basically an i7-4790 with slightly lower clock speeds & no on-board graphics. For a much cheaper price.
  • The R9-380 is going to absolutely destroy most games you throw at it and will play it at 60 FPS without much trouble.
  • I went overkill on the PSU, I simply couldn't get a solid high quality PSU for less that was more than 500W.

    I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
    I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $252.98 @ Newegg
    Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $51.98 @ Newegg
    Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
    Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
    Storage | Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Newegg
    Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card | $194.99 @ Newegg
    Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $87.98 @ Newegg
    Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
    Other| Fan splitter| $4.00 @ Amazon
    | Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
    | Total | $806.89
    | Generated by Kiwiandapple |


    Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!


  • What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

  • What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32
  • What is the difference between i7 & Xeon?: Here - 7:10 ◄ Important!
  • What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47 ◄ Important!
  • What is Turbo boost?: Here - 4:05 ◄ Important!
  • CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
  • GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
  • How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18
  • How many cores do I need for prosuming?: Here - 7:53
  • DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
  • What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  • Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  • Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  • SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
  • What is resolution?: Here - 5:22
  • Different panel types: Here - 2:29
  • Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
  • What is Free-sync?: Here - 5:29
  • Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  • Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  • What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
  • Raid 0, 1 & 10: Here - 3:11
  • What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
  • What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

    Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.




    Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

  • How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
    There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

  • How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  • How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
  • How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  • How to set up your SSD & HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
  • How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

    Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

u/high_changeup · 5 pointsr/overclocking

I highly recommend the bequiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 Silentwings if you're looking for the higher end range and large size (on sale):

My 2nd choice in the ~$60 range is the Noctuna NH-U12S

My budget choice is the Be Quiet Pure Rock , but I haven't seen it under $30 in a while on the normal sites. Same price as the Cryorig H7 right now. I prefer the Pure Rock over the Cryorig, but you can't go wrong with either performance wise.

There are loads of good CPU cooler reviews/installations on youtube. Like HiTechLegion :

I do not recommend the 212 EVO.

u/Teftell · 5 pointsr/nvidia

Both cards may throttle cause both coolers are meh. You could buy gtx 2080 or make an abomination cooler by removing shroud from blower card and slaping 2 good 120mm fans using zipties and connecting them to GPU using adaptor and fan splitter. Or use something like this

u/JackBauersGhost · 5 pointsr/PS4

Whoops. here ya go.

u/neomancr · 5 pointsr/hometheater

Are the speakers not better off straight? Looks clean though. Nice start.

If you're worried about heat on your avr grab these and set them on top or even in the back then set them someone on middle power:

Check this out at - AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet...

u/jperryss · 5 pointsr/crtgaming

These things were designed to run 24x7 with no additional cooling and I've honestly never even considered this except when orienting the monitor in a way that blocks the vents, like in TATE mode on some monitors. Not to sound like a jerk, but how can you say installing a fan is the best way to preserve a monitor without knowing if anyone has ever done it?
That being said, if I wanted to do this, I would probably attach a USB-powered fan or two (like these) to one ventilated side of the case and plug them directly into wall power with a USB power adapter because I don't like the idea of adding additional load to a PVM power supply that wasn't designed for it. Assuming the monitor had vents on top, I'd probably mount it up there using zip-ties through the holes and use it as an exhaust fan to pull warm air out.

u/pcx99 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

They get a bit warm. I just added a few fans to aid the circulation a bit in the cabinet. No issues.

u/Scalarmotion · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I'd recommend 2 more fans - ideally you want 2 intake fans and 1 exhaust fan to prevent dust buildup inside your case, especially since the filter on the front means 1 exhaust 1 intake will probably be insufficient for this. If you want to match the design and color scheme I suggest Corsair SP120 LED fans, just put these two in the front intake and have the existing fan in the back. You might need a fan splitter to power them though since you only have two slots on your Mobo.

u/pb278 · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

$15 plus shipping is a bit high for the noctua fans when they are $20 and free shipping on Amazon and come with all the accessories. Just my 2c. GLWS

Noctua NF-F12 PWM Cooling Fan

u/LBriar · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So I'd do two things right off. Install some temperature monitoring software like hwmonitor or openhardwaremonitor (both are free and lightweight). Start it up, check your temps, then yank the fan (you can just disconnect the wire from the motherboard while it's running, no harm). Then watch the temperatures, preferably while you do audio stuff on the computer. It's entirely possible that the very loud fan is doing less for the temps than you think. It's also possible that that's not the fan making the noise.

If it is that fan and disconnecting it makes an unacceptable difference in temperature, Noctura makes very quiet 120mm fans for not a lot of money. Other common culprits would be GPU fans (almost always loud, and unnecessary in audio workstations) and sometimes CPU fans. If you're overclocking and the cpu fan is loud, go back to a stock clock and see if the fan gets quieter.

There's a lot to say about keeping PCs quiet, but that'd at least be a start. I'd definitely start with just yanking that fan and see what happens, might be you can get some peace and quiet for free.

If you want a quick and more expensive solution, check out Fractal Design cases. They're nicely soundproof with quiet fans and can be had fairly cheaply on sale.

u/mi_stuff · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Definitely the [Noctua NF-F12] ( though mind the shitty color (pun intended)

u/SluzzyGFX · 4 pointsr/Minecraft

Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown)

u/Huskwild · 4 pointsr/ender3

This is the glass I’m using:

Wisamic 3D Printer Heated Bed...

In order, from the top down, I have:

-Textured Ender 3 Pro removable magnetic bed

-Adhesive backed magnetic layer

-Glass bed (linked above)

-3”x3” Silicon pads cut from this material:
uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm...

-Original adhesive backed magnetic layer (I am testing to see if I could revert to stock at any point, no functional reason)
-Aluminum build plate

Edit: Corrected formatting

u/Kronoshifter246 · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's almost certainly it.

If you're switching to glass, I would recommend against using binder clips, and instead using some silicone pad, as the binder clips caused my glass plate to bow upward in the center. I used this one. This does require you to peel off the BuildTak and remove the adhesive beneath it. I got it to come off with some vaseline and about 30 minutes of scraping with the included scraper tool while the bed was heated.

After that I just cut out some little squares of the silicone and rested the glass on top of it. Works like a charm.

u/waldojim42 · 4 pointsr/Alienware

Ok, if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then having someone else do it is best. However, it generally isn't that hard if you take your time.

I use a Craftsman small screwdriver set like that one, and have for years. Yes, there are cheaper tools. But I happen to like these.

There is a guide on how to tear into your machine, available right here.

It will take you step by step what you need to take apart. Click on the Prerequisites for section "removing heat sink assembly." It will show you what all has to be torn down to get to that part, and remove it.

Then, clean the old paste off with a lint free cloth, and decent rubbing alcohol. I avoid 70% at all costs. I prefer my 99.9% stuff, but have used 80% when in a bind. Make sure it dries completely before you continue. Pure stuff dries very quickly, less pure can take some time.

Then apply the new paste as a thin line about the length of a grain of rice. Don't smear it, try to spread it, or anything else UNLESS it is specifically designed for that (liquid metals come to mind). Then, reassemble. Be careful to ensure the heat spreader is attached evenly, with appropriate pressure.

Undervolting allows you to reduce the heat of the chip by running at voltages lower than it was designed for. Ideally, this shouldn't have to be done. Assuming a decent paste job, you won't. If you do find yourself in the position where that needs done, then use Intel XTU to adjust the voltage in small increments, and run Prime 95 in the background to monitor the results. If the machine becomes unstable, or starts throttling, you went too far.

What you need:
Screw drivers

Lint free cloth (some people use coffee filters, or even paper towels)


Paste (I use IC7 Diamond these days. Works very well on my machines. Arctic Silver 5 is still decent stuff, as is Gelid Extreme. There are others, and I am sure someone else will chime in with their favorites)

Clean, static reducing/non static working environment

u/WilliamFlinchbaugh · 4 pointsr/CR10

Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.

u/woodrowchillson · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I did, used 99% alcohol cleaned the area. I'm chalking this cooler up to garbage. Got H60 coming in next-day. So it will take the rest of this weekend off powered down. I will be praying to PCMR gods to forgive my trespasses buying that miserable CPU cooler and allowing it to unravel itself.

Stand by.

u/subroutines · 4 pointsr/matlab

This build looks good. I built myself a similar rig last year, and it performs well. I basically agree with everything /u/MrTesla said, mutatis mutandis.

  • If you want to perform GPU computing just make sure this GPU is CUDA-enabled.

  • I'd get a 1 TB solid state; they are only ~$250 if you went with Crucial instead of Samsung.

  • I have that same CPU cooler. It looks awesome in pictures, when it's by itself, but in retrospect I wish I would have went with something much smaller and simpler. The problem is that it's a brick, and will stick out directly normal from your CPU, and takes up a ton of space. Let me take a picture of mine... here ya go. It makes cable management and everything else happening around your mobo more difficult. If you go with something like this Corsair Hydro, you get the same copper plate with liquid cooling, but move the fan element out of center of the tower, to a location where it should be. I'd highly consider this since you are only going with a mid, and not full tower.

  • I like the modular PSU, but I'd almost want to beef that up a little, to like 800W.

  • CPU looks good. For $50 more you get a decent benchmark bump for the 3.6 i7-6850K. Then again, you might have already said that, a few times.

    Overall though, pretty solid build. MATLAB is just an excuse to build this right? No shame in that. When it comes time to actually use MATLAB for analyses I would highly recommend converting whatever you can to MEX files. Like MrTesla mentioned, MATLAB is not the fastest tool available, and may not be the right tool if you're concerned about how long it will take to process your data. Optimizing the lang/software/code used to process your data will result in speed-ups orders of magnitude greater than simply running the same code on a more powerful machine. I experienced this first-hand; I was simulating particle diffusion on ruffled membranes in matlab using standard functions. To run one simulation (~20k steps for 1k particles) it would take about 10 minutes. I went out and build a new rig, and it went down to ~6 min. I converted some of my functions to MEX/C and it dropped to about 45 seconds.
u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $178.88
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $22.99
Motherboard | Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $68.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $37.00
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card | $163.98 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill REDBONE ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Cooler Master GX 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Rosewill RK-201 Wired Standard Keyboard | $5.99 @ Amazon
Other| 3Lue Red Mouse| $10.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $607.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-18 04:44 EDT-0400 |

Use Amazon Warehouse deals on the 8350 and the RAM.

8350 Warehouse Deal

XMS3 Warehouse Deal

3lue Mouse

Used 212+

Really, the rest of this build seems pretty self-explanatory. It's an 8350, man!

Also, this is a very nice motherboard. I have the 990FX version of it, and it has given me no problems whatsoever.

u/BaconKnight · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.

For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.

Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.

Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.

Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).

EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.

u/ben9322 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Cooler Master Hyper 212+

I currently have a Phenom II x4 965 C2 stepping (the hottest running one) with a mild overclock to 3.6 GHz. Temps on idle are around 30 C in my terribly cooled room, and never go above 48 C on load. I also bought Arctic Silver Ceramique to go along with it, but the thermal paste that comes with the cooler should be fine. It's also very quiet.

u/br0adband · 4 pointsr/lgv20

This one seems to offer the highest thermal conductivity profile (35 w/mK) so I can't imagine it's "bad" compared to most of the others that range from about 5 to 17 and it's roughly the same price, just a touch more expensive but if it works as designed then it's worth it.

u/AaronBalton · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue
Note: $74 has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING)
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

u/yobowl · 4 pointsr/SteamVR

Omg your friend is an ass! I’m sorry but I’m amazed that thing is running! Please refrain from having the computer on until you get a proper cooler for BOTH your processor and graphics card. You are likely damaging the computer every time you run it.

for the processor

I don’t know what to do about the graphics card honestly but you need to cool that as well. You might be better off getting water cooling and installing it. But you also need to cool the GPU as well.

That picture of the acrylic that you don’t what it is, that is a water cooling block for the GPU!

Same with the processor, that’s a water cooling block sitting on it!

Your friend literally took out the water cooling but didn’t replace the fans!

u/aresfiend · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I see lots of downvotes to this guy who's obviously not as experienced as you guys. What's the purpose of this subreddit again? I thought it was for newer builders to ask questions and experienced builders to help.

OP, you've probably gathered by now that your stock i5 cooler isn't going to good enough. For how much I like to rag on Intel and performance per watt (essentially, performance compared to heat output) the 8700K isn't terrible. The Windale 6 is roughly $45 and perfectly competent with cooling the 8700K. If you wanted a cheaper solution the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is also a fairly solid choice. Personally I'd recommend the Windale 6 over the Hyper 212 but if, for some reason, the $15 difference is necessary the Hyper 212 would be competent. You wouldn't be able to squeeze as much performance out of the 8700K with the Hyper 212 as you could with the Windale 6 but it would get the job done.

u/shstan · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Apparently someone suggested me this

u/FailMango · 4 pointsr/india

Computer hardware prices will make you laugh, especially if you are looking at premium international brands.

I wanted to buy a CPU cooler (Noctua D15) and it still is listed for 13,899 to 18,155 on Amazon IN. On NewEgg India it's listed for 5,499 INR, plus either 450 for shipping by Noctua Austria or 2,000 for shipping by NewEgg International. If imported from it will cost around 7k including everything.

So Amazon India should actually be more vigilant in finding and bidding goodbye to these sellers.

u/throwdowndragout · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Instead of the 212 Evo, how about Cryorig H7? Same price range, way better.

u/Chaoriz · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/throwaway199427 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Haven't upgraded anything other than my GPU for about 6 years now so you could say I'm a bit rusty when it comes to part picking. I'll probably go for the i5-9600k and instead of the AIO Ill probably get the Cryorig CR-H7A. Can you suggest a good OC-able motherboard that won't break the bank?

u/Zonker101 · 4 pointsr/hardware

Believe is basically what you want, connects it to a PWM slot on your motherboard, then it gets from power from a SATA connector. It will then replicate the voltage to the fans on the splitter, and use one of them for the RPM reading

u/TaedusPrime · 4 pointsr/sffpc

For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.

So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.


1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.

1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.

2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.

You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)

Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.

u/Legorobotdude · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Speaking of being in stock, the H7 is back in stock at Amazon:

Not really a sale price but compared to the crazy low availability markup some sites were charging its not bad. Keep in mind the 2 fan version is only a couple bucks more.

u/SpocksCrocs · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/jackfg · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I went with the cryorig h7. At $35, it's one of the best value coolers (I believe it's generally the step-up from the 212 EVO). I have it sitting on my 6700k and overclocked temps cap out at like 65.

I looked at this when I was making my decision initially.

u/nerdslayer69 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Check out the Cryorig H7

u/ErinMyLungs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Decent machine however few bits and pieces:

Cryorig H7 is 10 bucks more but is a lot better (and much easier to install) than the 212. It'll run cooler, quieter, and generally better than the 212 for 10 bucks. Unless you're super stretched thin, I'd recommend it.

The 970 is an interesting choice but I think I'd recommend either the r9 390 if you want to buy something now (gives you 8gb of vram and great performance for $300) or if you can wait a few weeks, the rx 480 is coming out. I'd wait for benchmarks to come out but at $200 for the 4gb model and $250 for the 8gb model, it looks like a beast of a card. If you can wait, that's a great card to pickup.

u/obito07 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/TheDreadfulSagittary · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $327.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Fractal Design Celsius S36 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $117.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $236.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Corsair MP510 960 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $135.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $1129.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $134.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $110.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD-SA 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $499.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2978.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-23 19:03 EDT-0400 |

You'll also want to get this fan hub.

Here is an extensive guide to building a PC, covers most of the topics of putting it together. You'll also want to enable XMP (sometimes called DOCP) in the BIOS to make sure the RAM is running at the full speed, and remember to set your monitor to 144hz in the Nvidia control panel when you've installed Windows and Drivers.

Feel free to ask any questions.

u/Imbigazoid · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |

PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.

Case Amazon link:

SSD Amazon link:

With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.

If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.

Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.

M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.

The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: Forgot about it :/

Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo

Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU

If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.

I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.

u/Adaevan · 3 pointsr/buildapc
  1. The water cooling fan header can be used for a case fan. I believe the pump fan header can too, but I'm not sure. Keep in mind that your motherboard may treat those headers as PWM controlled or DC voltage controlled, and you may have to change fan speed settings in the BIOS.

  2. See 3.

  3. See 2. Just kidding, see 4.

  4. Easiest way would be to buy a fan splitter. Make sure that, if you have 4 pin PWM case fans, you get a 4 pin fan splitter. If you have a lot of fans, you can consider a fan hub. It can get power from your PSU via SATA or Molex, depending on the fan hub. Plus, if you get a PWM fan hub you can turn non-PWM fans into PWM fans, though all fans connected to the hub will run at the same speed.
u/IatemyPetRock · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Thats a very power hungry chip. You’re gonna want full cooling. Some mini-heatsinks and good airflow would do, but you cannot just run a core waterblock and be done. If watercooling, I actually recommend using an AIO with a NZXT G12 bracket, since it will provide be cheaper than an entire loop, and probably cool the same, since its in direct silicon contact. If you already have a loop though, then go with the waterblock.

For a Universal Waterblock, you need a thermosphere


Heres an AIO

Heres a G12

You dont even need 240mm, my 980ti which only draws 25w less than the 390 is perfectly fine on 120mm rad.

u/pocketsophist · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're going with an AIO, the Corsair H100i v2 is currently $45 off on Amazon. The Kraken is nice, but you definitely pay a premium for the RGB.

You could pair the Corsair cooler with a Fractal Designs Meshify C case and save quite a bit over this NZXT build, but I understand it all comes down to personal aesthetic taste.

u/helloimcallum · 3 pointsr/buildapc
  • 2500k £160

  • Hyper 212+ £27

  • GTX 580 3gb x2 £800

  • Asus P67 £127

  • OS £78

  • Ripjaws RAM £42

  • Obsidian 800d £200

  • 800w PSU £93

    That should run BF3 on ultra 1080p 60fps, so yeah it'll shit on any game. If your friend wants to spend that much purely for gaming then a 2600k and more than 16GB of ram is a waste. If he goes with an SLI set-up with a high end video card I'd strongly recommend at least 2 monitors otherwise you're not utilizing all of the card/s power. If not get a monitor with a high resolution. Total = £1550 w/ shipping and any other minor adjustments. You can get him the 2600k and 16GB of ram but it's his loss not your's.

    Note: I priced it up on Amazon because they are a good maker of pricing for components in the UK, you could probably find some parts cheaper.

    Edit: add an SSD if you like, they aren't for everyone. Personally i'd go with a 60gb good make one and stick OS and most played games on it; a 240gb one IMO if a big waste of money. But, each to their own.
u/step1makeart · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

u/ilessthanthreemath · 3 pointsr/buildapc

>i7 860

LGA 1156?

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is cheap ($20) yet highly functional. The downside is that it's massive and might interfere with sticks of RAM if they have large heatspreaders.

Edit: Seriously? Downvoted for suggesting the most popular cooler amongst /r/buildapc users?

u/Captain_Midnight · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'd go with a HAF 912 or Zalman Z9 case, as those have more features for the same price or less. And you can spend about ten more bucks and get twice the storage space.

Also, get the Hyper 212+ cooler. The TX3 is primarily a Core 2-era device.

u/blanketninja · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.

If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.

Your questions:

u/HopeThisNameFi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you can get it for $30 get the Hyper 212+:

u/headband · 3 pointsr/buildapc

92mm heatpipes are not nearly as effective as the 120mm ones. I would reccomend the hyper 212+

u/8lbIceBag · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

He does not have an AIO. He has traditional water cooling.

I'm just using a 25$ tower cooler with 4 heat pipes.

The Liquid Metal thermal paste was about the same price as the cooler itself. I did this back when Liquid Metal was pretty much unheard of and impossible to find. Back when people just started experimenting with deliding their CPUs. It made a 30c difference which is enough to beat traditional water cooling on a non-delided CPU.

My voltage is 1.05 to 1.28 depending on load. For some reason it crashes if I hit 1.3v so I can't take it higher even though I have cooling headroom. I don't think the mobo can supply power reliably as the Package begins to draw near 100W. Right now it pulls up to 84watts. Here are the stats over the last 5 days

You may notice core #0 is 10-12C less than the others. This use to be the typical temp, and core #2 use to always be the coolest of the 4. I noticed this happened after I moved and knocked over the PC. I need to re-apply the Liquid metal but I prolly realistically will never get to it.

Also may notice that I'm not techincally at 4.4Ghz, my real scheme is 4 cores @ 43x, 3cores @ 44x with a 101ish mhz base clock for 4343Mhz full load and 4467Mhz partial load. I have to use this scheme because of my power draw limitation. I think my chip would have been able to go a lot faster otherwise.

u/DJ_Marxman · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The Noctua NH-D14 has clearance for RAM up to 44mm, though it will be a snug fit. The NH-D15s has RAM clearance up to 65mm, but you may want to add an additional fan to it to match some of the other's performance, which adds to the cost significantly.

Personally I will be going with the NH-D14 for my upcoming build, and just making sure I buy RAM that will fit.

u/fatherlongcat · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Some suggestions to trim the fat:

  • Replace the H100i with a NH-D15. It does better in cooling benchmarks, and offers quieter fans, and brings down the price $20.

  • Vengance Pro ram is kind of overpriced, you can get the same thing for $25 cheaper.

  • You can also save $100 by settling for a 240GB SSD, which should be more than enough to install your OS and games on. Heck, I have a 1TB + 240GB SSD, and I only use the SSD. The extra space you can just put on your HDD, if you do manage to overfill.

  • You can save $100 by purchasing a 980 ACX 2.0, or $60 by purchasing a 980 ACX SC. The SC is by stock clocked higher than the Windforce, if you're not planning to custom OC.
u/Hendersun · 3 pointsr/LinusTechTips

Noctua is pretty much to go to for fans from what ive seen. Basic no LEDs and in my opinion faily ugly but they are huge among people I've spoken.

Edit: links and such

u/RS_Hauntedpearl · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Really depends on price range. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 is probably the most popular one out there and comes at a pretty nice price point. If you're looking for something more powerful and don't care about cost check out the Noctua NH-D15 which actually beats out some AIO watercoolers.

I personally avoid watercooling due to the higher chance of failure (pump dying) and possible damage to components (leaks) but some swear by it so that's upto you. (Corsair h100i is the most commonly used I believe)

u/Skotzie · 3 pointsr/oculus

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

u/Pilzsuppe · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't have a ton of data, you can easily use only 1TB of HDD.

Also, the 212 Evo+ is a good cooler :)

u/Bester2001 · 3 pointsr/computers

The Z77 board should be completely compatible with your CPU the question is HP and other manufacturer have been known ro glue or even sodder CPUs to the boards. Don't know if they still do but they've done it in the past. While your at it get a after market cooler ideally this one it cools the best for almost any price point including lower end Water Cooling systems. And it's one of the quietest. Good luck

u/LiquidLogic · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Buy silicone thermal pads, cut into 2-inch squares and place all over the heated bed. Place borosilicate glass on top and discard your clips.

u/other_thoughts · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Here are some links, the first has bold title and above it is a list of 'parent' links of 3M products
I'm not familiar with this product but it seems in the same catagory

u/Ratatattat44 · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had the exact same issues. A glass bed, thermal pad, and aquanet hairspray (yes, two is cheaper than 1) fixed it and I haven't had bed adhesion problems since. In fact, I have to use a flat razerblade just to get prints off the bed sometimes, lol.

u/IcanCwhatUsay · 3 pointsr/3dprinter

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

  • How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?

    I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)

  • What do you like the most and the least about this printer?

    Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.

    Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)

  • Have you printed with ABS?

    Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.

  • If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?

    No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA

  • Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?

    Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.

    The first was when I got it

    The second was when I added the glass build plate

    The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.

    That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)

  • Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!

    The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.

    single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.

    My Thingiverse for example prints

    Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:

    Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::

    Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes

    Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.

    Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.

    TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.

    Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
u/AdamTa17 · 3 pointsr/ender3

uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

You’ll have to cut it to cover the full bed, but that won’t affect anything. (The width is only 200mm, so you’ll have to cut another 35mm strip)

Also be careful, because this is very brittle and will rip in your hands.

u/RajenK · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Thermal pads aren't permanent. They're tacky, but don't stick permanently. I have my glass plate attached to the aluminum bed with 4 triangles of this thermal pad.

u/nineismine · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have had mine for a few weeks. I could not consistently produce anything until I did the glass bed mod. To me this is the MOST important mod to do as soon as you get your printer.

A couple notes on this :

Here are the parts I used specifically for my maker select v2.1

Thermal pad:

When you start this mod you will have to remove the buildtac pad that comes on the bed. This was the hardest part of the installation. I warmed up my bed and tried to peel the surface off but no matter how I went at it I ended up leaving all of the glue on the plate with only the pad coming up. Hopefully you will get lucky and at least some of the glue will come up.

After removing the pad I had a TON of glue to clean up, I used a citris based goop off solution and spent well over a half hour scraping glue. if I did it again I would have used a plastic scraper instead of the metal one that comes with the unit because the metal one put scratches on the bed. I don't think there is a functional issue with that it just looks ugly.

One thing to note about removing the glue. There is a hole in the middle of the plate and if you use a adhesive remover liquid it will get into this hole, which then drips into the the pocket created by the tape that is holding the heating element on. In other words you might want to cover the hole.

After you get all the glue off, just cute a bunch of squares out of the thermal pad. using someone else's tutorial I measured out 2 inch squares and found I had an uneven pattern when I put them on. This didn't seem to make a difference.

Make you you adjust the Z endstop. If you are facing the front of t he machine it is on your left behind the support. I adjusted mine up one notch of what appeared to be 4 available.

u/nystark · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

All clips suck pretty bad...
I've been using this stuff for a while and I'll never use a clip again.

u/weirdlooking · 3 pointsr/computing

You do not need the exact same cooler. CPUs are built for specific "sockets". The one you linked is a 1150 socket cooler. So you can use this one:

The cooler that I linked does not have pre-applied thermal paste(some do). So you would need to clean away the old paste and apply new paste such as:

Their are quite a few video guides on how to replace the cooler for your computer if want to make sure your are not applying to little or to much paste. Im not sure i would be able to link any in your native language though.

u/wuethar · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It can be another model, there's nothing inherently wrong with mixing and matching brands and models as long as they're of a size configuration that your computer supports. I think most people generally like to keep their fans consistent, but that's mostly an aesthetic thing. If you want to stick with the same fan model that came with the case, the fan that comes mountaed on the front of the Meshify C is this one: The case can support up to 3 120mm front fans, so you could add two more on the front with little difficulty.

One point to consider if you're thinking of adding a bunch of fans is that past a certain point your mobo may not have enough sys_fan connectors to support all of them. This is easily fixed, though, by getting either a fan controller or however many fan splitter cables you may need to get easy inputs for all of your fans (I used on one of my builds and it worked well enough).

u/OcuTux · 3 pointsr/buildapc

A fan splitter should work.

u/hockeythug · 3 pointsr/PCBuilds

If you have the extra money get a Noctua. They make different version depending on how much space you have. Very high-quality parts. The mounting system is very nice and they will provide new hardware for new mounting designs when they come out.

Here are a few of their popular ones. They make more so check out their website.

u/BeerGogglesFTW · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

At that price you could get an aftermarket cooler for $40-60 and come out ahead or break even, of the prices these cards will be in a couple weeks when manufacturers come out with theirs.

In my experience, these coolers work really well. Cool and quiet when switching from a blower, but they don't look very nice.

u/noiserr · 3 pointsr/Amd
u/link_dead · 3 pointsr/Pimax

This generation the cost to performance difference between the Titan RTX and the 2080ti is just so small. I usually get every generation Titan card, however this generation is just really disappointing. I wouldn't be surprised if something like a 2080ti kingpin edition or one of the other higher binned cards would beat the Titan RTX in some games.

Also the stock Titan coolers are garbage, always have been. To really get the most out of them you will want either an aftermarket air cooler, or a watercooled setup. I've been using these for many generations of Titans on Air

u/SE_Apocalypse · 3 pointsr/Amd

95° is nothing to worry about on a 290x, though throttling indeed starts at that point. PUBG is a piece of shit, so I would not be concerned about AMD performance on that nvidia game either.

But the sound of the fan makes me think your fans are in for a replacement, which is annoying. Card is most likely out of warranty as well. Undervolting, accepting the throttling for a while and waiting for vega sounds still like the best option. Your 290x should not throttle hard enough to make it a real problem.

You could try to ask gigabyte if they can send you an replacment cooler kit for your card or try a cheaper air cooler set for your 290x.

Arctic Accelero IV for example is just $50 and is actually slightly better than most 3rd party 290 coolers. Was the way to go when the 290x still had only reference design cards on the market and is cheap enough. Still, redoing the VRam pads might do the trick too, hard to tell.

u/Mathematical_Potato · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV for $62.99, pretty much the best on the market

Edit: Just read it’s an SC2, you’ll have to check for compatibility, but the main cooler should work and the thermal pads you can place where you need them so I don’t see why it wouldn’t work

u/devious_panda · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I actually use one of these in my network rack as well as a top-mounted exhaust fan. I have an Anker 5p USB hub that powers one of my smart hubs and then 3 Pi's.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

u/zinger565 · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing
  1. You can do it probably once a day, or once in the morning and once at night.

  2. Yeah, 5ft at your pressure and temp is too short. I would drop the temp of the keezer, lower your pressure, and that should help.

  3. Get a small fan. I have one like this from Amazon
u/ZambonieDrivor · 3 pointsr/PS4

PowerA Charging Station - 2 controllers, not little kid friendly, as it has a spring to load/unload the controller and kids will just pull it off. If the spring is in the incorrect position, it can be difficult to put the controller on charge.

Collective Minds PSVR Stand and Charging Station - 2 controllers, 2 move controllers, and 1 USB slot for headset or PSVR AIM controller.

PlayStation Platinum Headset - Went through 2 PS Gold headsets due to weak plastic frame. Platinums feel more sturdy. Haven't used too much to test durability. Great sound, but I am not an audiophobe.

PSVR AIM Controller - Got it bundled with Firewatch. Read that it felt good in hands. I thought it felt a little awkward, but definitely easy enough to use. Just have to get used to the button layout.

AC Infinity Fans - These are 80mm fans. It comes with 2 fans in parallel that are powered over USB. I don't use my PS4's USBs, because those are taken up with other accessories, so I have it attached to my surround sound receiver. One fan pulling air from the back of the Pro, and the other directing the fan out of the shelf area. I recommend these, as I've noticed the spin up on my Pro has significantly went down.

u/Invisinak · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I used these for my entertainment center behind my ps4 to allow better cooling and they work fantastically and move quite a bit of air quietly. You can also plug 6 in to one ac power brick because each pair comes with a male and female plug so you can connect multiple pairs of fans together.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

u/Techdolphin · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Looks like something like this.

u/cheffmichael · 3 pointsr/cigars

i have the Set and forget in my tower and i really love it. I had to add some fans to circulate the air. But now its PERFECT!!! I have the one made for tower humidors.

u/pixel_of_moral_decay · 3 pointsr/homelab

I agree with this.

I have some devices in a shelf, so to keep air flowing I got a pair of these guys setup:

Just keeps air flowing. Great for what it is.

u/letsgoiowa · 3 pointsr/Amd
u/Death0945 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans

is this version of the noctua dh15 the correct one i should buy for a 8700k? I already bought the cryorig h7 as well but i can cancel and pay a bit more for the noctua. I am probably gonna keep its base clock or overclock just a bit not too much. Should I keep the h7 or pay more for the noctua?

Thanks in advance

u/gzunk · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Don't buy the AM4 special edition, buy the normal NH-D15.

or here. The description is a bit confusing, but it looks to be the NH-D15.

u/booga_booga_partyguy · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

If your CPU temps are running high, then the problem might be that you need to reapply the thermal paste. I recommend using this one:

Also, are you using the stock CPU fan that came with it, or are you using a something else?

For what it's worth, CPUs are usually very robust pieces of tech, as in it takes an extraordinary amount of abuse for them to become defective. It could just be you got a rare bad one, but odds are your thermal paste has become hard and needs to be reapplied.

u/drizzlelabs · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

No problem, I'm glad that it helped. These are the fans I got by the way:

u/derdnik · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!

u/TheKingElessar · 3 pointsr/ender3

Update for everyone:

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan with this quieter option (I don't need it to be quiet, so I'm not going to do it).


  • I'll use the Hero Me system with this hot end fan guard.

  • I'll replace the filament fan (I believe that I have my fan names correct) with the dual 5015 Hero Me setup using these 5015 fans. Here's a video I found that is basically a step-by-step guide for it.

    Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!

    /u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.
u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/Reprap
  1. You could replace the fan with one of these but I have not done it so I am not sure if that will work out.
  2. Z-motor stand-offs are a common upgrade for the folger tech, see my other post for links
  3. gluing a heater PCB to glass is a bad idea as you are reducing the thermal transfer between the glass and the heating element plus PCBs can warp and glass can shatter. Instead I would ditch the glass all together and get an aluminum plate, once agian see my other post for links.
  4. I recommend using a free standing spool holder and setting it behind and to the side of the printer and running the filament through the loop on the z motor, this works pretty well for me. I currently am using a storage box with some PVC pipe, 608ZZ bearings and some 8mm threaded rod sitting on top with the lid off, it works rather well for me right now.
u/MacNugget · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have a 28MP and I swapped the fans for Noctua ones which helped a lot. It was loud enough to hear through a closet door before I swapped them. I'm super-sensitive to fan noise, though. I'm sure a lot of people would be totally satisfied with the original fans.

u/00firestar00 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

This may not be very DIY, but I replaced all my fans with 40mm Noctuas. They are $14 on amazon. Quieter, and way better quality.

u/Emulsifide · 3 pointsr/homelab

The majority of 1U switches on the market come equipped with standard 40mm single or double thickness fans. Although somewhat expensive, Noctura makes a killer alternative that kicks out 4.83 CFM at 17.9dba:

At the same price though, you can get two Sythe fans with slightly lower flow (4.11 CFM) but a tad quieter as well (14 dba):

u/Mhycoal · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)

Comes with a 3 to 2 pin adapter with diode to prevent reverse polarity

u/dawgol · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

For future reference when you have more money, I recently got one of these HBA cards this vendor and it works fine and was properly updated/flashed:

I use this for a cable:

And use this for cooling the heatsink:

u/PuterPro · 3 pointsr/CR10

+100 for the Noctua. :-) Whisper quiet & better airflow. 6 YEAR Warranty. Quality stuff.

For the Hotend, use a 40x10mm:

For the Parts fan, I upgraded to a Fang and used this 40x20mm:

Here's a pic of my setup:

This is the Fang cooler:

And here's the front Cooling Duct - protects from sticking items in the fan blades, and speeds the airflow. Plus it looks cool! ;-)


u/priestwithknives · 3 pointsr/CR10

Check the fan blades, they tend to snap very easily, make sure one isn't wedged in there, if it is pry it out and get ready to change the fan eventually.

You can open the control box, unplug first from power etc, and see where the wire leads in from that bundle and if it's connected to the mainboard snugly.

Here's a diagram if you decide to go poking in the box.

After that if the wires are all plugged and there's still no spin and no obstruction like a stuck blade you can get this if you'd like an easy install.

It won't require a solder with that kit, just scissors and plyers, I've been using the new fan for about 2 months on my machine and no clogging issues from heat creep.

u/Adrian_Tek · 3 pointsr/ender3

I got the Noctua 40x10mm
I have one on my Hot End already and it works great, keep the temp cool just fine.

u/crossbowman5 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I used these in my USG-PRO to great success.

u/MikeSD34 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.

u/Svarthofde · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I assume this kind of product is out of the question since you want it to fit in 4 cm

An option for cpu cooling is something like this maybe

u/snessim · 3 pointsr/sffpc

If you get the clicking noise from your SF600 Gold, you can either switch out to an SF600 Platinum or add the NF-A9x14 found in the L9i or L9a. Do not use the separately sold NF-A9x14 as it will not start at the right voltage. If you still use the stock ribbon cables from the SF600 Gold, you can either buy the SF series cable kit, get/make custom cables or buy the SF600 Platinum.

As it currently stands, these are the only two reasons to make the upgrade from the SF600 Gold to its Platinum equivalent until JonnyGuru publishes a review.

u/Cinnanut · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Only 4 left

Edit: lol got ninja'd :'(

u/Drewology · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Nothing really beats the performance of a Noctua NH-L9I. It's more pricey, but you are getting a very quality product.

u/ASTAR2012 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Honestly, you probably won't hear any reduction in noise without changing the cooler. If you can fit it, I'd recommend a low profile noctua cooler such as this one.

Also, for what it's worth, you might consider a Ryzen 5 1600 for the price. More cores and generally better for most workloads. Biostar has a mITX Ryzen board. I'm not sure what programs you are running, but I would recommend looking into it if you haven't. Just a thought.

u/Kocrachon · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you are going to Overclock, then YES you will need a 3rd party cooler.

Even at clock, my CPU was being throttled because of heat during heavy stress testing. Now, I never break 40 even at peak.

Here is what I got for my cooler. I run over clocked to 4.4 on my CPU and I never hit over 40 with this.

A lot of people also use this, but I can't personally speak on its behalf.

u/mkunzwil · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60

u/Highdefkitten · 3 pointsr/Minecraft

This small guide is only for CPUs, for GPUs all you have to do is download a program, I'll link that at the bottom


First off, you gotta make sure your board is capable of overclocking, chances are you have a Z-series board because you have a k series processor.

K Series processor = overclockable

Z Series motherboard = overclockable

Those are just the basics, I assume you know them.

So to overclock, you're going to need to go into your BIOS, again depends on your motherboard, but while booting up you should press either, F1, F2, F10, Delete or Escape. Once you've figured out the key to get into your BIOS, you can start tweaking.

A really important thing if you're going to overclock is an aftermarket cooler, such as a Hyper 212 (Great value) or a Corsair H115i (Top of line watercooler, pricey) or an equivelent air cooler, like the Noctua NH-D15 (My personal favorite, it's what I hit my 4.9 GHz OC on)

If you already have an after market cooler, that's perfect, and you can continue. But if you don't, I highly recommend picking up a Hyper 212, it's only $25 and will get you a huge amount of performance out of your PC, until then I'd highly reccomend not OCing.

Here are the next steps, I would type them all myself, but that article summarized perfectly, and it's very recent too.


As for overclocking your GPU, just download your GPU's Brand-specific program, like MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision X, etc. They really all work on any GPU, but it's nice to use the one "made" for your specific GPU.

(Note, these only work on Nvidia cards, you'll have to download completely different stuff for AMD)

I hope this helps, don't be afraid of pushing your system, just don't push it too far. Either way, the worst that would happen if you OC "too" hard is you'll BSOD on startup and you'll just have to set your multiplier/voltage lower. It won't affect the longevity of your PC in any way, Enjoy!

u/Head_Cockswain · 3 pointsr/pcmods

If you want a shroud, you could always fabricate one. 3 flat surfaces is a world of difference to painting fans. A million ways you could make a shroud and fasten it into place.

3d print as someone mentioned, cut from an existing piece of plastic or metal, re-shape from sheeting of various materials, etc etc.

One novel thing you could do is use a block of wood or a thicker plastic chunk for the top, drill holes exactly where the heat pipes come up and use those to fasten(making sure to not block any screw access holes so you'd have what looks like one access hole and a divot at the back). Hot glue or epoxy in the pipe-holes, and you don't have to worry about clips or bands or zipties to fasten it to fins(or damaging said fins).

>>Disclaimer: Fan/heatsink shrouds can mess with air-flow in counter-intuitive ways. Sometimes the engineers really do know what they were doing...

>>You can jury rig with card-stock or similar cheap materials and tape to test temps before you decide on a final design or if it's worth doing at all.

>>I've done this with case fans as well as making my own shrouds, and the temp differences can sometimes be improved, or very much decreased, depending on specifics.


Those covers are for a completely different size/shape heat-sink.


For cooler:

Thinner 140mm wide heatsinks (2x)

Your cooler:

A single fat 95mmx95mm heatsink.

At which point, you're modding the fuck out of them, may as well start from scratch in true maker fashion, from the ground up for your specific need.

Painting the top of the cooler would be easy and not affect performance much, if any, slide some sheets of paper in underneath the topmost layer(no need to paint the whole thing, imo) for over-spray, spray lightly, don't drench anything, let dry even if it's not complete, repeat as necessary. Ten "too thin" coats adds up to a better finish than 1 complete coat with runs and globs and dried in wrinkles....If you miss a spot, hit it next time, repeat. Patience is a god-send when painting. (All that provided you've completely removed the cooler, otherwise you'd need a lot more than just a sheet of paper for overspray.)

I wouldn't paint the fan blades. It can be done, but it can be done very badly and mess with balance or even airflow, not to mention if you ever touch them by accident or something, even when not running, say if you're wiping dust off or moving/removing to replace cooling paste, etc, it could flake off because fan blades are a bit flexible usually.

Fans are the one thing I wouldn't mod, unless you're talking about painting the exterior frame only or you seriously know what you're doing.

u/AtomKanister · 3 pointsr/buildapc

When I last checked, the DRP3 was cheaper than the NHD15. At least in the German Amazon.

u/__PETTYOFFICER117__ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

These are PWM, 5 for $24 on Amazon. Quieter and move more air than the fans in the OP. Had them for a while, great fans.

u/iaacp · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I JUST installed a pack of 5 of these:

I went from having 3 default Corsair case fans + 1 fan on my Hyper 212 to having 7 case fans + 2 on my Hyper 212. The computer is noticeably louder, but not quite an annoyance, since adding many more fans. Should I exchange my Arctic ones for some of these sale ones? Mine don't seem too bad, and they can be jury rigged together which is kind of nice - I have them all on PWM.

u/nillyjay · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

A quick Google search finds most things

u/Computerknight54 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

That computer has Cyberpower version MasterBox 5 case which supports 120mm fans in all mounts or 2x 140 in the front.

> I don't have a budget for case fans so I would like to purchase the best most reliable ones

Noctua but you're paying a lot for them.

Basically you want fans that are not sleeve bearing as those die fast. Ones with Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB) should last a long time, like these arctic ones

You can also look into anything Noctua or Corsair's ML series of fans.

u/hiryuux · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $83.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA - Premier Pro SP600 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $144.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE WHV2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer | $17.84 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Redragon - K551 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | EagleTec - KG010 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $866.63
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $806.63
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-13 03:09 EDT-0400 |

I'd probably spend the extra $49 to up the RAM to 16GB (faster ones too).

Solid mid-range gaming build with a Ryzen quad-core (4 cores, 8 threads), decent motherboard with a lot of features for the price, 8GB of RAM, 256GB SSD (I did not include a 1TB HDD, but budget another $40 or so if you need extra storage), GTX 1050 Ti 4GB will easily max out the games on your list, modular power supply, and a nice Deepcool case.

Also, thinking about the case I would probably recommend getting two 120mm fans to mount in front (the Deepcase Dukase v2 only has one rear exhaust fan), and perhaps two 120mm on top. This Arctic F12 PWM pack would be perfect.

Edit- made a change to the keyboard so it would match your mouse color scheme (black/blue).

u/recklessbaboon · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

at these price points, you might as well buy new, since shipping isnt really worth it for most.

212 evo is $25

deepcool gammaxx 400 is $15 and performs same as 212 evo.

and for fans you can get a 5 pack of arctic f12 pwm fans for $21

u/Zn2Plus · 3 pointsr/gpumining

PWM fan with PST feature.

PWM = "pulse-width modulator"; PST = "PWM sharing technology"

That "sharing technology" allows you to daisy-chain 3-5 fans together.


u/Keeloi79 · 3 pointsr/HomeServer

I don't know where this info is coming from. From what I recall there were settings for Fan Control like: Standard, Heavy IO, Optimal. I use these: as case fans and Dynatron Heatsink/Fans with X9/10 boards in standard ATX cases and have no problems. The case fans can go down to 5-600RPM but hovered around 1000 when I just left the settings in IPMI set to "Optimal". The command-line tool "IPMItool" will allow you to set a lower "alert" RPM speed if the hard coded amount either 800 or 900 RPM is too high and causes fan flapping.

u/ilikefishalot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

CPU Cooler: Buy the Cyrorig H7. It's the best in it's price point at the moment, and looks amazing. You won't need a better cooler for anything unless you want to overclock, which you really don't need to do with a CPU as good as yours.

Video Card: For [email protected], I would advise the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both will crush 60fps at 1080p, but if you want extra future-proofing at a higher price, go for the GTX 1070. The 1060(try for 6GB), and the RX 480(try for 8GB) are excellent cards that will run any modern game well, even at 1440p. The 1070 is even better, but only really needed if you want something like Hairworks for The Witcher 3 or intensive mods for Skyrim.

RAM:Since you have a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, get another 2 4GB sticks of your current RAM and run it in quad channel, 16GB in quad channel is amazing for modern games, although your RAM's speed isn't probably high enough nowadays.

PSU:Upgrade if you want to(I'd advise it), but I won't go advising you on any because PSU's can be so inconsistent. Just try for one above 600w that gets good reviews and few failures, unless you feel OK about your current one.

u/Cash091 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You do not need both.

The Thermaltake Floe is an AIO (all in one) unit. It is for cooling CPU only. You don't need to buy anything else for it. If you're looking for a good AIO, I recommend Corsair's Hydro line. The Corsair H100i is amazing. And if you want that nice 360mm radiator, the H150i just launched. H for Hydro. The H150i may be hard to find as it is new.

The Pacific M4 is just a waterblock. Standalone waterblocks are for custom liquid cooling loops. Unlike an AIO if you bought this, you would need tubing, fittings, a pump, a reservoir, coolant, and radiators.

Also unlike AIO's, waterblocks are specific to parts. AIO's tend to be pretty universal. For example, that Pacific M4 is only for use on ASUS TUF X299 MARK1. There may be other compatible boards... but probably not.

Custom watercooling tends to be significantly more expensive. EKWB does have a pretty decent aluminum line for much lower costs. There are some caveats with it, but it's pretty simple. If you do go custom, I highly recommend staying away from Thermaltake. Someone recently posted about a 1080ti that got destroyed by a Thermaltake GPU block. Might have been a Titan... not sure... Either way, it was a sad sight to see.

Check out /r/watercooling if you a)want to see amazing rigs or b) have more questions about custom watercooling loops!


No. When buying a Floe of Corsair Hydro, all you need is the AIO. DON'T buy the Pacific M4 unless you have more money to spend.

u/bsieck · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm doing that right now. I found this:

And I'll look into a bigger hard drive/SSD

Edit: that link doesnt work right...its the H75 120mm

u/Pliable_Patriot · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

Yeah you can get a fan splitter, which is what I'd do

As far as drivers, you want to download all the motherboard and chipset drivers, network, audio etc and the video card driver.

[First 5 Things to Do with a New PC Build] (

u/Zephata · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There sure are, look for fan splitters !

u/phase357 · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/ironfixxxer · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You just need a fan splitter.

u/SD0S · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I got the H200 because I already had LED strips, didn't want to use CAM, and could just use $4 case fan splitter cables instead of NZXT's Grid/Hue+. I'd rather control my fans through BIOS anyways.

u/jz5678910 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

Yes, absolutely reapply. If it didn't make a solid connection the first time you pretty much have too redo it. That sounds like that may be your issue.

Honestly I'd recommend going with one of these pads. I got one recently and I'm very impressed. I got the 40x40 option and i use it on an OC'd r7 1700 with a fractal 360 aio. It performs around the same as something like mx-4 does. No need to spread and it's reusable.

u/Halbzu · 3 pointsr/buildapc

On the first picture, I was like "yeah that's a cpu, what did he expect?" :D

It's one of these.

u/Metaldrake · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Perhaps look into the IC Graphite pads, it doesn't have the issue of drying out like conventional pastes.

u/doowopshabop · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.

If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.

With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.

$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:

Full-Featured VR Kit

| part | link | | price |
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|

Learn more and customize this build at

This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.

If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!

u/Natemiester · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

That depends on whether or not you want to OC. I personally have a pretty large overclock (1 GHz) on my i5-3570k, and it's really helped my processor stay competitive. With a Hyper 212 Evo, you can get a great overclock, especially considering it's only $30.

u/CuppaJoe12 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Wow, I'm literally about to order the same build. I'm getting a H100i cpu cooler, the Maximus VI Hero instead of the Z87 pro mobo, and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead of a Caviar Blue 1TB HD. I'm also getting the red/black version to match my mobo. Everything else is the same even the same brand GTX 770. Please let me know how it runs, especially how quiet it is.

You have a lot of fans and an overclockable CPU. I would recommend you get an aftermarket CPU cooler to take advantage of these features. As I said above, I'm gonna try the Corsair H100i, but it is pretty expensive. Some less expensive air coolers that I think would look good in this build are

[Phanteks TC12DX]( fs=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992252&sr=1-10&keywords=phanteks+ph-tc14pe) for $60 on [sale for $40 + shipping] ( right now

Enermax ETS-T40 for $50 (also has leds on the stock fans)

And of course, the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] ( for $35 which doesn't match as well but is cheap.

Great job on cable management (it's supposedly easy in this case) and I agree that it need a light on the inside. Let me know what light you end up getting because now I want one too.

u/wannabuyameme · 3 pointsr/Amd

I had my old 8320 at 4.5 ghz on a Hyper 212 evo and it was certainly worth it over the stock clocks, but definitely get a better cooler, the stock one cannot handle overclocking.

u/sjforeversj · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I recommend to just stick with the stock cooler and save a few bucks, but if you really want an after market cooler the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO should work great.

u/northup41 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c

My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.

u/kleintrpt · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)

In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:

Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212

Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120

I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).

Edit: Crappy picture of mine

u/xXDanger_ZoneXx · 3 pointsr/ARK_pc

CPU: Intel i7 6700K

Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo

Motherboard: MSI B250

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2

Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080

Storage: WD Black 1TB

Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD

u/JAWS_OF_FIRE · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  • i5-7600k - This 4 core 4 thread CPU is awesome for gaming but struggles under heavily multi-threaded workloads. It doesn't come with a cooler, I would recomend this one. Total price w/CPU cooler = $244.88 USD

  • AMD Ryzen 7 1700 - This 8 core 16 thread CPU is an absolute multi-threaded beast for the price. It's quite a lot less powerful per-core than the i5-7600k which will hurt gaming performance if your CPU is the limiting factor. It comes with a fancy RGB cooler. It's price has been dropping quite a lot recently, already down to $269.99 USD

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600 - This 6 core 12 thread CPU is pretty much the same as the R7 1700 but with two fewer cores and four less total logical threads. It will have near the same single threaded performance as the 1700. This will also work with the same motherboards as the 1700. It ships with a slightly less fancy cooler as the 1700, but it will still keep it cool. Price is very good at $199.99 USD
u/GrumpyFeloPR · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I mean the product description page is for the 212 evo, that is correct but if you go to the page with the prices and who is selling it (the link below)

You can see is only 6 people, 3rd party sellers. None are amazon themselfes

u/Iceheim · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

well, back to topic;

Do you absolutely must include Corsair h100i in your build ? i think you can save some by using air cooler and use the budget saved from that for Graphic card or CPU.

For example, this 212 Evo here.

u/Nahors · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I think its fine from what i know about pc building. But if you want faster boot times then think about getting a ssd and if you want to over clock think about getting a better cpu cooler. The stock Ryzen 3 cooler is not bad but if you want to get some good overclock on it think about getting a after market cooler. This is one i found on amazon: Also if you want a water cooled one you need to see if your case supports water cooling.

u/sadisticpotato · 3 pointsr/buildapc

On a stock CPU, you don't need a watercooler at all. Even the stock cooler will do perfectly fine on stock speeds. However, you should probably consider overclocking your CPU, as you have a K-series, which is unlocked. Just make sure you have a supported (re: Z170) motherboard.

Now for the cooler; if you aren't planning on overclocking, just use your stock cooler. If you don't have it, I'd recommend the Hyper 212 EVO, as it's cheap and does the job. Also gives you ample headroom for moderate overclocking in the future. If you are really planning on overclocking, I'd actually recommend the H100i v2, as it's only $10 more, but provides much better cooling performance because it's a 240mm rad. You should get 4+ Ghz easy on that cooler. >= 4.5 Ghz really depends on the CPU, or the "silicon lottery" as they say.

Link to H100i V2:

Link to Hyper 212 EVO:

u/belink1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought several <$50 items:
This keyboard is a great deal for a back lighted mechanical one.

Also this any of these refurbished mouses, I specifically got one of the M65:

If things are running hot in the CPU, you could also get a Hyper Evo 212.

Hope this helps!

u/seanlax5 · 3 pointsr/CitiesSkylines

Fortunately not needed. I did a lot of temp testing while setting it up, and 5 of these babies (2 in front, 2 in back, 1 on top) and this thing are enough to keep anything from getting to 60C. Surprisingly quiet too.

Next machine I will probably opt for water though.

u/Enteroar · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Wow, thanks a lot for that :) I'll be awaiting your review haha. Any major difference in this or this? I am planning on over clocking.

u/nikos717 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

These temps are totally fine in my book. An aftermarket cooler would help with your CPU temps though.

u/Dustoned · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The EVO 212 is a nice little CPU cooler for $30. I use it and love it for the price.

u/Droviin · 2 pointsr/Vermintide

You probably want this heatsink not just a fan. Assuming this fits in your case, it'll be the most cost effective measure to keep heat down. Also, make sure that your case is exhausting hot air quickly.

u/malastare- · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any reason not to go with a Hyper 212 EVO? It's the go-to suggestion for CPU coolers. If you're not overclocking, there's no need for anything expensive to cool the chip.

u/usa4life · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Not much better you can do than a [build with an i7-6700K, GTX 1080, and Samsung 950 PRO] (

Throw in a good ATX case-- Corsair makes good ones so [something like this] ( would probably do the trick.

Edit: A CPU cooler would help too if you end up overclocking-- [the hyper 212 evo works great for me] (

u/schlagern3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i7 for gaming usage is overkill, get an i5-4690K instead.

Get a Z97 board to match your i5-4690K. This MSI Z97 PC MATE should do the job.

Get a CPU Cooler if you're going to OC it, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.

u/KingoftheStream · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This is the cooler I recently bought:

Literally caused the heat coming off my CPU to go down by roughly 30~40 degrees. Couldn't be happier.

u/carkazone · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No problem :D . If you have trouble with that cooler, I recommend the Enermax ETS T40 (which I have and I overclocked my i5 3570k to 4.4GHz, while maintaining it less than 70 degrees, but sadly the overclock was unstable, so many of my games crashed, forcing me to go to 4.2GHz. it also comes in different colours :P ) or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

u/PricelessPersuader · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

OP get a different CPU cooler like the Hyper 212 evo

You're running over max temps.
If you have a good 3rd party heat sync watch this video on how to apply/re-apply thermal paste if you don't know.

You might have burnt your chip if you ran it that hot for a long time.

u/gurren_mk2 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/MagnificentClock · 2 pointsr/kotk

I think people underestimate the need to Processor cooling.

I upgraded to an i7-4790 and the game still ran terrible. I went ahead and ordered a Cooler Master Hyper and now it runs smooth..

Cooler Matser

u/wax2142 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

From the same place you buy your computer hardware of course. Anyways, you'll want a cooler that supports LGA 1151, which most do these days anyways.

Then you get to decide it you want an air cooler or a radiator cooler. here are a few for you to look at for reference:


u/bfp1104 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well, A GPU would be a good investment, but I don't think you'll need that considering what you said was just programming and stuff. If you got into the realm of more intense stuff, like video editing or 3D CAD, then A GPU would be needed. I would recommend a CPU cooler (are those temps in Celsius for Fahrenheit?). You don't really need the liquid cooler (It's more money for more cooling, primarily for high-intensity gaming). the Cooler Master 212 EVO will get you by, along with some Arctic Silver 5. But.......Your darn case. This one should fit though

u/Locarius · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well im not that expert but the case you selected i think it comes with a frontal intake fan and another fan as exhaust on the back, which is the same as my Corsair Carbide 300R series, and trust me with only 2 fans with the case you will have a decent airflow, considering the videocard has its own and also CPU which it really depends on what you want, but take a look at this one for your CPU (if you dont want liquid cooling), COOLER MASTER EVO HYPER 212!

But for the PSU i bought a Corsair 800gs one and let me tell you its reliable, take a look at this one Corsair CXM 750W! , if anything else i can help with let me know.

UPDATE: The version on the pcpartpicker was SEMI MODULAR not non modular (which comes with all cables attached to it), CX 750W CORSAIR NON MODULAR!

u/XSSpants · 2 pointsr/Amd something like that on a budget. Noctua's are good for more $.

XFR and PBO are ryzen 2 features that auto-overclock your cpu based on thermal sensors. is a good write up on the tech.

From posts here, dialing in manual overclocks and voltages will rarely offer much higher performance than turning those on with a good cooler.

u/Austyx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'd like the opinion of my peers here:

I'm upgrading the CPU cooler from the stock cooler so I can take advantage of my i5-7500K (I can't find the K anywhere, but I'm 99% sure it is) and actually overclock the thing so I can actually get 60fps on Assassin's Creed Odyssey. I only get about 45-60fps in that game. I've never overclocked before, so that will be a journey in it of itself.

It's between the Hyper 212 Evo and the be quiet! Dark Rock 4. I have them both up in tabs and am trying to decide. I imagine they run comparably, but the Dark Rock 4 matches my mostly black with some white build better. The Dark Rock 4 is also the recommended cooler by Tom's Hardware, which I like to use as a resource.

I also looked at the Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M but that might be too much RGB for me. Only RGB thing in my build is on my motherboard and it's just like a pulsating red light.

A true first world problem deciding if an all-black cooler is worth an extra $50. But what do you think?

Also, here's the build otherwise:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.89 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $63.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $128.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.89 @ OutletPC

Edit: I'm second guessing if I can even overclock this CPU. I swear the GeForce Experience thing told me my CPU was an i5-7500K, but those don't seem to exist and the amazon page doesn't tell me if I can overclock. I need to go home and get in front of it and double check.

u/groundonrage · 2 pointsr/buildapc

CPU + Mobo, $86.24
8GB ram Dual channel, 70.99
240GB SSD, $100 ($20 MIR)
Used r9 270x, around $110 I believe (don't have a link for this, find one on ebay or something)
Windows 8, $90.26
Corsair 430W, $40 ($20 MIR)
Corsair 200r, $50 ($10 MIR)
CM Hyper 212 Evo, $35.96

Rest should go into speakers mouse keyboard.
if you need a monitor that's gonna be like an extra 120
If you could however chauk up a little bit more money I would go for a bigger PSU
The current one is fine, but its safer to go overkill on PSU than it is to hover somewhat above.

u/JoseChovi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My plan is gaming and programe in Java, Python ... But i cant waste more than 300€ in a CPU right now.

Do you recommend me H7 or Artic33? I have seen this Cooler Master RR 212E but if you said H7 or Artic I can trust in you x)

So I think that I will buy this case, one of the cooler that you said to me and maybe this CPU if I dont have more recommendations.

Thank you man, I appreciate your help!

u/scswift · 2 pointsr/oculus

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

u/divijkm · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

A good cooler for this would be Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for 3000. So, the cost goes to around 23000. This is a 100% premium over the r5.1600 for sure, but you get a 15% increase in performance and 2 cores and 4 threads.

I personally wont go for it, but there are people who want a high end CPU and this is the one to get.

It is the best affordable workstation cpu in the market. Another good option is @ 23000/-

u/MrForeverloud · 2 pointsr/Warframe

Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.

TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.

Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.

K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.

Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.

TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.

u/Crimtide · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just buy a cheap Hyper 212 EVO or something similar, if it can fit in your case.

u/WeedNine · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

People complain about costs but I went to electronics recycler in town and took heatsinks from some old computers, with the pump, clear vinyl tubing, and a peice of ABS plastic to mount it all on total cost was $28 CAD for the parts I am using now.

I bought this [kit] ( but the heatsink/fan was not big enough to actually cool the TEC. so I used a bigger one, a CoolerMasterHyper 212 that was free via salvage. I used this pump and here is my heat exchanger that sits in the nutrient solution and simply run salt water through it because the coolant will freeze near the cooling pad it you use regular tapwater. Goes to about -5 C.

u/GooberDanger · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Read my post and what I say about Aio coolers. Typically I wouldn't recommend building a custom loop if you're new to pc's. Even aio coolers aren't needed for the average gamer. This is one of the most commonly used aftermarket air coolers, with almost 8k amazon reviews, you know there's something right about it. Something like this would be ideal for a new pc builder.

u/Ugotowned441 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You should definitely look into getting a heatsink/fan for the CPU. I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Great CFM with little noise and fair price.

u/Ryan05055 · 2 pointsr/arma

Probably. Overclocking with a stock heatsink is a nono. Get this one for only $34.

u/nigerson · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You really don't need an over the top Mobo I listed once from amazon that goes for $150(I personally use a gigabyte mobo and find them extremely easy to use for OCing, reliable, and typically less expensive). Also make sure you buy the 4690k i5, not the regular 4690. This will allow you to OC. Also make sure you buy a third-party cooler as the stock one is absolute shit and breaks really easily. And as for SSD I would recommend a 250gb Samsung 850 Evo. I use a Samsung 830(2 years old and still works fantastic) which is blazing fast and this newer generation is even better and more affordable than ever.


CPU cooler:


u/phab3k · 2 pointsr/battlestations

case: Corsair Carbide Series White 500R Mid Tower Computer Case

motherboard: MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45

processor: Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ

thermal paste: Arctic Silver 5

psu: Cooler Master V1000 - 1000W Power Supply with Fully Modular Cables and 80 PLUS Gold Certification

heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz

fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack Fan

Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition Single Fan

storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB

Samsung Electronics 840 Pro

Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD

keyboards: CM Storm QuickFire Stealth

Ducky Shine II TKL Mechanical Keyboard White LED Backlit (Black Cherry MX)

mouse: Logitech G9X

hot swap hard drive bay: Plugable USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive

monitor: ViewSonic VX2703MH-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor

sata cables: 18" White SATA 3 III 6 GB/s

lighting kit: NZXT CB-LED20-WT 2-Metres Light Sensitivity Sleeved LED Kit

u/j-mt · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here it is with a Thermalright Truespirit 120, which is about 10mm smaller than a 212+. The Hyper T4 is probably a better option.

u/ManSkirtDude101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

At that price range you can get a pretty good CPU cooler(comes with thermal paste as well, if you didn't know that btw). Even if you don't have any plan on overclocking you can still get it just for less fan noise. If you don't care about either stock fan should be fine as long as you buy some new thermal paste.

u/nerdthatlift · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Definitely, I agree with his suggestion. You can look up low profile air cooler. I don't know if Hyper 212 Evo would fit, but that cooler is really good and it's fairly cheap.

You can also look into Silenx or Noctura NH-L12

u/senorroboto · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No problem. Also since you're getting an overclocking CPU, I forgot to recommend you an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($491):

u/wallyTHEgecko · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.

The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.

u/tjb627 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This is the one I got. Good price and works extremely well.

Cooler Master Hyper RR-212E-20PK-R2 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes

u/Doc-Mitchell · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It is the cooler that goes over your cpu, the stock will work fine if you're just gaming but i'd really recommend getting an aftermarket cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a CRYORIG M9i. They're relatively easy to put on and are much, much quieter than the stock cooler and allow to overclock and not worry about your cpu temps

u/noseonarug17 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No. It's banned in Canada because the thermal paste is inedible and a Nova Scotian woman named Tipsy Viscera (Tipper Gore's cousin) convinced the Canadian government to ban it.


u/313miker · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO a good replacement for the CRYORIG H7? In Canada it is very hard to find the H7 without shipping from states. Looking primarily at this one

u/leperaffinity56 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Do yourself a favor. It's 30 bucks and drastically decreases idle and load temps, regardless of oc. It's a little unwieldy to install, but holy Krishna is it worth it.

u/pecopls · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

You could, but your bottleneck is without a doubt your CPU. Fortunately, you can upgrade to another LGA 775 compatible chip for a modest cost. Here is a modified QX9650, which seems like a great upgrade over what you've got. Or you can pick up a Q6600 for a slightly lower cost. Actually, I think the Core 2 Extreme processors may not be compatible with your motherboard, I'll leave that in there until I know otherwise (Core 2 Quad Q6600 would definitely work). It should work, the ASUS P5QL manual states that it does (page 28).

I would highly recommend the QX9650 over the Q6600 at that price (far better performance, don't even consider the Q6600 if you can get the QX9650).

You'll probably also want either a new cooler, or at the very least new thermal paste for your upgraded LGA 775 processor (the old stuff on it will be rock hard and unusable). For example, the CM Hyper 212 EVO ($38 Amazon, also available w/ $10 Mail-in rebate on Newegg but +$6 shipping) is compatible with the LGA 775 chipset, but will also be compatible with all modern motherboards (LGA2011 & AM4 with an extra bracket) for when you do your full upgrade in the future. Or if you think you might get a CPU with a fan already included (such as the non-k variant Intel processors, or the non-x AMD AM4 Ryzen processors), you can simply buy new thermal paste and re-apply it when you install your upgraded LGA 775 processor.

If you want more RAM, you'll have to find out if you're currently using DDR2 or DDR3 RAM, documentation on P43 boards is really weak I'm having a tough time figuring out what your board supports (conflicting information all over the place). Then you can add more. Your board supports up to 1066MHz DDR2.

Also, while you're finding out whether you have ddr2 or 3 try and find out which dual core CPU you have, and your current graphics card. Thanks.

tl;dr: Buy a refurbished/pre-owned QX9650, get new thermal paste or a new cpu fan, find out what the speed and timings are of your current ram and then try and match that when you add more (or just buy a new/pre-owned set of 2x4gb DDR2 1066MHz ram).

u/Wulfay · 2 pointsr/Folding

Stock intel cooler is NOTORIOUSLY awful. I mean, it's laughed it for how bad it is. Honestly, you would be best off just buying a Hyper 212 Evo. It is THE value budget cooler, and it performs great. You have a 4690k, so it's unlocked for overclocking... why not get a cooler that can allow it to do that competently?

The cooler will allow it to stay at the overclock when folding, and have pretty decent temps to boot. Additionally, you may eliminate some throttling in gaming that you may never know you had.

Regardless of any of this, CPUs generally like to be kept at the lowest temp possible, and if you are planning on helping the [email protected] cause (which you should!), you are gonna want a beefier cooler to prevent any possible lifespan shortening, no matter how rare that may be with modern CPUs today. It will be quieter too, which I always find is a major plus.

Good luck!

u/TheDoubleYGamer · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/77xak · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You might need to update the LAN driver on you're motherboard. AMD's stock coolers are usually pretty loud. Some PSU fans are also very loud. You will need to buy an aftermarket cooler before overclocking such as this one.

u/toxicity959 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 is currently the king of CPU air coolers. If that's out of your price range, nothing beats the price/performance ratio of the Hyper 212 EVO.

u/F41LUR3 · 2 pointsr/wow

Cheap option, get this (might be a tight squeeze, requires removing the side panel fan):

Best option, get this (also requires removing that side panel fan, but might be a tiny bit easier to fit in as it's 2mm shorter):

unless you don't want to remove the side-panel fan at all, then get this, still great cooling:

It would also be helpful to know your motherboard model to check the compatibility list. But I'm fairly certain these coolers should fit regardless.

They include decent thermal paste, but the FX8350 is one of the hotter chips and it might be worthwhile to squeeze a few extra degrees out with this paste:

u/PriceKnight · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Price History

  • Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) ^PureLink

    We don't Horse around here.
    ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbdpct3%2Fcpu_coolercooler_master_hyper_212_evo_cpucooler%2Fekzv1n8%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
u/unlap · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here is more of a build for your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $53.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $29.99 @ Adorama
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card | $124.88 @ OutletPC
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $55.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $45.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $83.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor | $141.98 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $14.49 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $821.43
| Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
| Total | $751.43
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-26 21:37 EDT-0400 |

Edit: You'll need this:

u/Patmaaan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Considering the small form factor and the very little airflow inside, the cpu temps are great. Idle temps range from 33°C-to 39°C sometimes, when I don't turn on the AC and the room temperature climbs above 30°C.

Noise levels are fine. I never hear the thing. I don't sit close to the case, though. But even if I would, then the only thing I would hear is the gpu under pressure, when gaming. In a very silent room, you will be able to hear the fan spinning, when you are close by, but subjectively speaking it is very silent.

As for the Noctua case fans, supporting the gpu: you might need a fan splitter cable, depending on your motherboard. Mine only had one 4 pin socket to spare, so I ended up getting this cable.

Edit: Just wanted to add that the gpu in the pictures is a 980Ti and not a 970, like I had in mind for the build.

u/Vurkgol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So here's the link. Your motherboard will control the speed based on how hot it is.

Get this:

The CPF01 will let you put two fans into one header. The CPF04 will let you put 4 fans into one header. They will all be controlled by temp of the system so long as your fans have the 3 or 4 pin connectors that fit with these products.

u/JasontheFuzz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It seems like your mobo isn't designed to handle more fans than that.

I did some digging. You do have options- you can buy a splitter for a couple bucks and connect multiple fans to a single plug (the three pronged plugs should fit into the four pronged, um, prongs). Or you can splice the wires together, but you'd better know what you're doing there. Or buy a better mobo (though that doesn't seem like it'd be an option).

u/hschen · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

something like this would work okay. Though you wont fit all of your fans, unless you get two and also plug the CPU fan this way. but it will make the other fan a slave to the CPU.

even if the splitter is 4 pins and the fans are 3 pins, you can still put the fans into it, as the fourth pin is only used for PWM, and isn't required, just make sure you put it in correctly. There are also fan splitters that split into three, but i read they aren't recommended. You could also get a fan hub which allows for more fans, but i think you need to power it by molex.

u/Sayakai · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That depends on what hub you're getting.

If you know you won't buy even more fans, then don't bother with a hub - just get a splitter. That way two fans are controlled by one cha_fan header, and one by the other.

If you want a hub, there's different kinds. Some are fed by a cha_fan header again, in that case, all fans fed by the hub run at the speed assigned by the header. Some don't support any control at all, in that case, the fans just run full blast. Some support manual control, though usually those require a 5.25" bay you don't have.

u/WayOfTheMantisShrimp · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Your motherboard has 6x 4-pin fan headers based on the manufacturer's specs, all of which should work with any fans regardless of what they are called.

>1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x CPU OPT Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin)
1 x AIO_PUMP connector (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x W_PUMP+ connector (1 x 4 -pin)

If you already make use of all of those, here's the first example of a splitter on Amazon which still allows the motherboard to control two fans together via voltage or PWM.

u/Kagawanmyson · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Okay, one thing at a time:

1 - Your motherboard seems to only have one fan port for case fans, and the one for your CPU cooler. You don't necessarily need to plug in both of your case fans, but if you want to, you'll need to grab a splitter cable to turn that one plug into 2, [like this one on amazon.] ( (Probably available more conveniently and cheaper at an electronics store, but I don't know what those stores are in the US [assuming you are] as I'm in the UK).

2 - Your motherboard's fan ports have 4 ports because they support PWM fans that can be speed controlled by software. Your fans don't have cables to support that, so they'll just run at 100% the whole time unless you remove them and replace the case fans with PWM case fans. Again, not a problem, won't harm them to run at 100% really, just might be a bit noisier than necessary. The plastic connector on the fans and the motherboard will likely only fit together one way around, if not, check the motherboard manual and that'll tell you which pin is the PWM pin, connect the cable so that that pin isn't connected to anything.

3 - Which audio cable? The one for the case audio ports? That should slide on as easily as the rest of the case cables for the power button etc, make sure you're putting it in the right place but it should go in fairly easily. Some parts do just take quite a push to get in at times.

4 - Your case might not have a firewire port, and nothing uses firewire these days anyway, you'll likely never use the port, don't worry about that.

5 - If the power cords melt, you've got bigger problems, things shouldn't get that hot in the case. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere, if you have cable management slots in the case on the less-open side, then pull them through there and just leave them out of the way.

u/Xion4762 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

In the /r/buildapc community we sometimes use fan splitters. Take a look at those.

u/pocketfool · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/ConqueefStador · 2 pointsr/Amd

If you know how to OC the 3600 is likely the way to go.

3600x comes with a better stock cooler if that's a consideration but you'd likely be better off still getting the 3600 and using the extra money on a Noctua if you don't already have a CPU cooler.

Overall the 3600x is clocked at about 3% performance above the 3600 and comes in at 3.8-4.4 GHZ as opposed to 3.6-4.2GHZ on the 3600, but the TDP for the 3600 is 65 Watts where as the 3600x is 95 watts.

I've gone back and forth about this myself but I finally settled on the 3600.

u/davidfg4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The CPU isn't loud, only the CPU cooler, which can be replaced independently of the CPU for pretty cheap. There are tons of options, but maybe look at the Noctua NH-U12S. Only upgrade the CPU itself when you upgrade the motherboard.

Most modern coolers work on a variety of motherboard sockets, just make sure to get one that supports your current CPU socket and the current generation of CPU sockets and you should be fine.

Edit: Actually with the Cryorig H7 you can just replace the fan with a quiet 120mm Noctua fan.

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm sure I'm missing some, as a 'murrican, but all of those will do the job well. The Thermalright is probably the best cooler of them for overclocking, the Noctua a bit more convenient (in terms of packaging, and they usually include a few fan accessories) and very close, while the Arctic Cooling one is a value option that will get the job done. If you're not planning on overclocking, the cheaper Arctic Cooling one will be every bit as good as either of the other two (and if you don't like the aesthetics, they sell a few different variants that are mainly different in colors).

I think a HEDT 5th gen should be compatible out of the box, but before you order, do verify that the cooler claims compatibility with your socket.

u/Subzer013 · 2 pointsr/okc

So you can use the fan that comes with the case or.... grab one of these whichever catches your eye.

Noctua NH-U12S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-F12 120mm Fan (Brown)

Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan

You’ll have to add that to your pc build on pc parts picker to verify it fits your cpu base (AM4) and fits your case also. They have low profile ones like above here also

Noctua NH-L9x65, 65mm Premium Low-Profile CPU Cooler (Brown)

u/Shallelujah · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?



u/Imnottheassman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have a Noctua nh-u12s and am very pleased with it. The fan rarely if ever reaches top speeds, and is nearly silent anyways. Keeps my 2600x cool as well, and is much quieter than the stock cooler (which wasn’t itself bad or anything, but I wanted something super quiet).

u/86_ed · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any beefy cooler has a chance to cover the RAM. See good coolers below that most likely won't cover the RAM:

Noctua NH-U12s

Hyper 212 Black Edition (Does come in RGB as well)

be quiet! Dark Rock 4

u/amazn_azn · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

If you change your MOBO you don't need a new license but you do need to get on the phone or use their automated system and ask them to re-activate it (assuming you're using your old HD).

With an i7, interest in OC, you should get a z170 class board. I'm no expert on OC's but depending on the degree of OC, you may not even need a new heatsink. If you want an easy upgrade, the NH-U12S doesn't require all the space of the liquid cooling systems.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $153.89 @ B&H
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $194.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $348.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 14:53 EST-0500 |

As for RAM, I assumed you still wanted 32 GB for some reason, but if you decide 16GB is enough, you could save a solid $100

u/gregz83 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you need to try an alternative air cooler, this is a solid choice:

If you want a new AIO, I would suggest this:

These are just suggestions for new units, you can try as others have suggested getting the manufacturer to have them replace your unit under warranty.

u/Zaziel · 2 pointsr/Amd

Since I only had a GTX950, I was only using the pre-mounted fans.

I have this Noctua CPU cooler and based on the quality of the fan, I've ordered 2x 140mm Noctua fans to add to the front (removing the included one) and a 120mm fan to replace the included one as well.

I will probably put the mesh tops on tonight, to open up the top (was using the solid toppers), but later when I remove the included fans, I may shift them to shoot straight up and out at the lowest setting.

u/saurion1 · 2 pointsr/nvidia

It's loud and it will hit thermal limit (83º) quite often under heavy load. I had an Aero 1070 OC, used it for a year and with some undervolting and a more aggressive fan curve i managed to keep it mostly under 70º while gaming. The only problem was that having the case literally next to my head, the noise was kinda annoying so i ended up selling it and getting a Strix.

If you wanted to get an aftermarket cooler, the Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV and Raijintek Morpheus II are the best air cooling options. If you wanted to go water, the Aero uses the FE's PCB so any FE compatible AIO like the EVGA ones will work.

u/Renan003 · 2 pointsr/Amd

I had a good experience with an Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo II, but for a RX 5700XT I think the best one would be a Xtreme IV:

u/lechango · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There are some aftermarket coolers but no many, here's a pretty universal one I found on Amazon:

You can also liquid cool your GPU, but I don't know if there's any all-in-one liquid coolers for gpus (other than the cards that already come with them like the Fury X). Most people that liquid cool their GPUs are overclocking heavily and have put together their loop from scratch.

u/philnm · 2 pointsr/graphicscard

I think 340 GBP is a great price for XT.
If you manage to solve your card issues, which I hope you do, you might want to consider getting for 45 quid.

Fantastic cooler for your reference XT

u/thesearch · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Fan might burn out a little more quickly. But there are aftermarket cooling solutions for most cards. If/when that occurs you could make a change then?

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you hate the case, that's an easy decision: the Fractal Design Define S and C for example have acoustic padding inside. Or you could buy acoustic padding separately and install it inside the case of your choice.
Extra1: replace the case fans with the quietest Noctua fans you can find.
Extra2: anti-vibrations kit.

You could also replace the PSU with another that has a 0dB/0rpm mode.
Extra: a PSU anti-vibrations gasket.

Your cpu cooler is really good so you can remove one of the two cpu fans and still OC. It will reduce the noise a tiny bit. If you don't OC, you can remove both cpu fans but there must be sufficient airflow inside the case.

If you've got a hard drive, you can place it inside a silencer (requires a case with a 5.25" bay).

RX 480: replace it with a non-reference model or replace the gpu cooler: the Accelero Xtreme IV generates 23dB (0.4 sone) at 2000rpm according to the manufacturer.

u/Carl0021 · 2 pointsr/Amd

Ditch the blower motor for a aftermarket fan. With the reference card I push 60c under heavy load, 40c at idle. I did a swap with this bad boy ARCTIC Accelero Xtreme IV High-End Graphics Card Cooler with Backside Cooler for Efficient RAM and VRM-Cooling DCACO-V800001-GBA01

u/baitboy3191 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The fans are pretty much dying or dead. If you don't have time to RMA it. You can purchase a an Arctic GPU cooler, to my knowledge their latest edition should cover the GTX 970 both reference and non-reference cards.

Its kinda expensive, but if you can wait I would RMA it instead.

u/titanruler77 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

there are aftermarket coolers such as (this one)[] note I'm not sure if that one is compatible with your gpu but that is just an example. They also make waterblocks but you likely don't want to go down that route.

u/bui1t · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

My 1080 blower was running extremely hot, 47c idle 70-83c under load), and I replaced the cooler last night with amazing performance. I'm now getting 31c idle and have not gone over 59C full load and stress testing. If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, check out this cooler for $57.

u/owlsanta · 2 pointsr/PSVR

It's not thus far, plenty of air flow if all was running at once maybe. The Xbox is the only one that may... but these days I use it mainly to watch tv occasionally with a leaf antenna/tv tuner . Will get a couple of these fans to increase cooling on each square.

u/FreeRangeAlien · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

These fans come wired together, have a multi-speed controller and a USB power plug

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

u/tykisson · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

This worked extremely well for me. I have one above and one below the USG.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet...

u/gabetron92 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

I ran a power bar into the drawer as well so the only cord coming out is that one and the cat5.

u/slitt_vicious · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I guess I was literally thinking lock/key...something like this

And for ventilation, something like this

The fans could be powered by your xbox, router, etc. I have an enclosed entertainment center (because I don't think any of the crap in it is particularly attractive). We have the model in this link and it came with two options for the middle doors (glass or just like the outer doors). I have two usb fans inside (one for above the shelf and one below) that just blow out of the back of the unit. I figure it's not exactly air tight and just assume it pulls air from the front mostly. I know that it is noticeably hotter if I turn the fans off.

u/zapharus · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I did something similar to what you're trying to do here but instead of such a big fan I bought what are essentially PC case fans and cut two square holes, on the back cover of the TV unit, that were just the right size for each of the fans and used weather foam sealing/stripping around the openings where the fans will rest on to help dampen the noise from the vibration. I made sure to have the fans blow the air OUT of the enclosure and put silicone furniture bumpers on the cabinet door to create a small gap for air to go into the enclosure from the front.

The fan you have in there will be way too loud. The ones I linked come in a pair, are a lot quieter, and only need one power supply so you can either use the USB cable and power adapter that comes with the fan set, or use one of the USB ports from the Xbox One system. I don't yet have an Xbox One to test whether or not the USB ports only power when the system is on or if they're powered on all the time. If the USB ports only power when the system is on, using one of the USB on the Xbox might be the better option because the fans will turn on when the system is powered on. Using the supplied power adapter that comes with the fans requires the fans to be turned on manually.

I hope this helps.

P.S. For the love of everything that is holy, please DO NOT have the air blow into the enclosure, you will give your Xbox One an early death.

u/Leviathan97 · 2 pointsr/synology

Something like this is probably easiest. Plug it right into the Synology’s USB ports or use an external AC adapter.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

u/Jotnub · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Well my ph is 5.6 as I'm using rainwater, I'm not sure wether to start adding nutes or not so im adding minuscule amounts with the water (too little and too watered down to measure). I currently have two output fans stacked one in front of the other (only temporary before I sort it out more) and no input fan yet.

The fans I'm using are :

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

u/drewcarter1 · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

I had the same problem and found a solution. My bio cube is in my room over the garage, which is always warmer than the rest of the house. The biocube stayed at 81 all summer.

The solution is computer fans. I bought the one linked below, and fastened them on the outside of the upper back of the tank, against the holes. I used strips of Velcro, gluing one side of the Velcro to the fan, and the other to the tank. The Velcro then allowed for movement for the fans when I opened and closed the lid. One of the fans is blowing in and one is blowing out of the two holes.

This kept the temp a respectable 78 degrees. The constant evaporation did require more frequent water replacements, but it definitely does the trick.

u/dbrez8 · 2 pointsr/Beekeeping

Here's an album with more pics

  • 2 Deep hive bodies - Mine are 8frame and juuust fit a 5gal bucket. 10 frame will fit more comfortably
  • 1 piece of foam insulation for the bottom and some pieces of wood to keep the bucket ~6in above the bottom for air circulation. Carboard for the top.
  • Temperature Controller $17 - includes a thermometer. I set it at 100F
  • [2 variable speed PC fans with US Connection] ( $15 & an old USB charger - For circulating air in the chamber and keeping the temp more consistent throughout. I put one fan blowing on low across the bulb and the other sucking air from the top and sending it down. There are probably cheaper fans too.
  • Outlet box, Outlet, & outlet Cover - I used a GFCI outlet for a bit of added safety.
  • Lamp chord & 75w incandescent bulb & piece of tin foil - First I tried a 40w bulb but it wouldnt get the chamber above 90F. Foil is to put between the bulb and bucket to avoid a hot spot on the bucket.
  • Some romex or old lamp/extension chords to cut up and wire together the controller, outlet box, and lamp
  • Wood stirring paddle $10 - 5gal of honey is pretty hard to stir. This beast gets the job done

    lmk if I can help with the wiring or anything. It's pretty straightforward. Enjoy!
u/sunk818 · 2 pointsr/gridcoin

Where did you get the fan? I've used this in the past:

I use it for my Android phones. Not as well thought out and cabled managed as your setup. Mine are Android phones placed on top of a fan like that but I don't have partitions figured out yet.

u/x_scion_x · 2 pointsr/PS4

Get something like this & place them behind your PS4.  Granted I had to cut a hole in the back of our entertainment center to mount them but you can always just set them back there (depending on how your entertainment center situation is) and they will suck out the hot air as well as pull even more air into & through the console so you shouldn't hear it as often.

Since I did this I rarely hear my fan kick up besides it's "quiet" mode so it appears to be working well. 

I got these;

You can either plug them in & control them or have them pull power from the console. 

u/BrothaB_20 · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Check this out. 2 80mm fans that are powered by USB. THEY have speed control. High medium and low. Very quiet. Would be good to have outtake on high and intake on medium or low to create negative pressure for you filter if you plan on using one. Again, these fans are next to silent.

u/WRXFan3000 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery


I'm running a Ledgle Led Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum UV IR Plant Grow Lamp for Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Veg and Flowering in a couple of small storage containers I got from Home Depot. I have two fans drawing in air and one blowing air out;

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

and I used this mylar with spray adhesive;

CoolGrows 2 Mil Mylar Film High Reflective Greenhouse Covering silver Foil Sheets for Grow Tent (4x25 FT)

I'm going 18 hours on/6 hours off.

I have a small CO2 generator I made with a couple of mason jars running a tube to the input fan. I also am running a humidified on low since I live in a very dry area.

The soil is a combo of organic Miracle Grow and some perlite;

8 Quarts xGarden Horticultural Grade Premium Perlite - Coarse and Chunky

u/SatanicGamer666 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

i'd go for the i5 9600k with a nice mobo around $150 and the nh-d15 cooler by noctua

as of this moment the i5 9600k is on a discount on amazon:


and decent mobo:

everything for $450!

(ignore this if your getting the mobo i linked) make sure the mobo you get is one of the z390's so you can OC that bad boy and get even more performance, and if you get the nh-d15 you'll be able to hit a nice OC while keeping temps low

u/HohoHere · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's almost the same build as I have! Minus the case and the cpu cooler. The cooler you have seems like it'd work well, but if you ever have any inclination to get a different one I could not recommend this one more! A bit pricey but I can't use anything else now, things a beast!
Great build you made man!

u/4InchesOfury · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You won't be able to overclock with that motherboard you picked. You need a p67/z68 mobo like this.

You'll probably want an aftermarket CPU cooler, so I suggest this

For the SSD I suggest you get this

You picked a 5400RPM HDD, you want a 7200RPM like this if you need to store lots of files like pictures, movies, etc then get 1 7200rpm and 1 5400rpm.

Personally I'd go with a more cost effective SLI/Crossfire solution for your video card, the 580 is pretty bad when it comes to price/performance. You can get two 570's/6950's and it will cost about the same, if not less, and you will get much more performance.

Case is up to you, but I suggest something like the HAF912

And finally, your power supply is a bit overkill. At most, 750W is what you need if you take my advice and sli/crossfire 570s/6950s.

u/TrippyVersion · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey! Very nice build, congrats!

Also, you should have a look at the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. I am building a setup similar to yours and for all your needs it will work flawlessly. Although the Liquid Coolers are also very attractive but there are always the inherent risks - such as the tube splitting and the liquid leaking, frying your beloved components in the process.

u/EmerilLIVE · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It could be a poor seal between the heatsink and CPU which would be alleviated by remounting the heatsink, although you would need to reapply some Thermal Compound. I would certainly consider a step up to the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, it is only $20 and will be a huge improvement.

u/nubbinator · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> It can't be that much worse, can it?

It has far less overclocking headroom. The 960T should get to 4GHz easily and you also might be able to unlock it to a hex core CPU. Personally, I wouldn't get the 925.

I also wouldn't grab that mobo. This Gigabyte has better power phases for overclocking and has more upgrade room. It even has a combo with the FX-4100. Alternatively, this Asus and this ASRock are around the same price, but have more upgrade room, but fewer VRMs than the Gigabyte.

There's no reason not to get the Hyper 212+ when it's $21 at Amazon. You'll have a cooler running computer and be able to overclock further with it.

Personally, I don't care for single sticks of RAM. I'd spend $8 more and get this 8GB Kingston kit. If you can't afford it, get this G.Skill stick.

u/DublinBen · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.

I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.

You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.

The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.

You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.

You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.

u/hybridtracer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Everything is compatible. I don't know much about that motherboard but it is gigabyte so that's respectable. The only thing you need to get is a cpu cooler. the cooler master 212 plus it the most popular around these parts.

u/alienking321 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Are you planning on overclocking? If so, you should pick up a better CPU cooler. Many people around here like the Hyper 212+. For $20, you can get a 300-1200 mhz increase in your CPU speed.

u/wazzaa4u · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're going with the 570, you might wana look into gtx 560 ti 448 core cards. One at ncix for $280. 560 448 is supposed to have similar performance as the 570.

Edit: noticed on another thread you can get the cooler for $20 at amazon

u/tindercylinder · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You say you're using a Storm Scout? A Hyper 212+ will fit in that case just fine:

Other than that, if you're looking for a low profile cooler for the same or less than the cost of the Hyper 212+, the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 or Cooler Master Hyper TX3 should be fine. But considering the Hyper 212+ fits in the Scout, and it only costs $26 on Amazon, I'd say that's your best option.

u/psikeiro · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

If you're willing to pay 25 shipped for it, might as well just get it for $28, brand new

u/sandals0sandals · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If it wasn't for those raptors you'd be able to squeak by with a considerably less beefy power supply, but you'll probably be looking at this:

and the r/buildapc favorite

Edit: If you're feeling adventurous, you can oil the fan in your power supply:

I suggest using the mineral oil mentioned in the article. When you open a power supply though you need to be EXTREMELY careful, the big capacitors in a power supply hold a charge for a long time and can shock the life out of you.

u/manirelli · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I would NEVER use the stock fan. Pick up the cooler master 212, which is great for overclocking, inexpensive and in general just an awesome addon to your computer.

u/Purple_Deathstar · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.

you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.

if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.

Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.

if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.

If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter

don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.

you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.

have fun building, let me know how it goes!

u/oldmanhumpkin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What case do you have? If it is a large enough case, I would swap out that CPU cooler to something like the Hyper 212+ It'll save money and also perform a bit better.

u/totalBS · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.

CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.

GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.

Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast

Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.

u/uzuhl · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've got my Q6600 running at 50c max even in Bad Company 2 with a Hyper 212+
and 2 of these in a push pull
I would actually get one of those fans to act as a rear exhaust also.

u/Krichevskoy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PC Part Picker should do everything for you. They give you the option to filter by compatibility with the parts you already selected.

Since you're using an i5, any motherboard with an LGA1155 socket will be compatible. You should go for one with a p67 chipset.

This is a pretty popular CPU cooler.

u/georgeguy101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.

your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.

if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this:

its basically the best on the market.

but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.

something like this:

would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.

theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.

u/pr0grammer · 2 pointsr/battlestations

$25 will get you this -- Mine easily keeps my 2500k under 50C even at 24/7 max load and 30-35 idle. From what I've seen/heard, you can't really do much better without spending close to $100, and you really don't need more unless you're trying to overclock past about 4.5GHz.

u/littleRedMosquito · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What kind of heatsink and fan are on the CPU?

I have the same CPU - the stock heatsink and fan ended up getting really loud on me, but this fixed it.

u/OilyBobbyFlay · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks pretty good to me. The only thing you really need to change is the RAM. What you have selected is 1.65V which Sandy Bridge doesn't like. Here's some cheaper similarly performing 1.5V RAM:

Also since you have the 2500K I'm guessing you're gonna OC, so you should tack on a 212 for cooling:

Also look to raserei's post for more suggestions. The only thing I disagree with is waiting for Ivy Bridge. Intel has been delaying the hell of out it for a while now. Also the Z68 mobo you have is cheap enough so downgrading to a P67 probably wouldn't be worth it.

u/IquickscopedJFK · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nice build.

He could always swap the CPU for the $110 FX-4100 and overclock the shit out of it. The compatible mobo would be $60. He could make that difference by not getting the DVD drive and just getting one later. He can then OC the FX-4100 quite far with the Hyper 212 and call it a day for a total of about $30 more at $815.

Hell, if he was really serious and wanted to destroy pretty much any game in existence, he'd drop the 6870 and pick up two HIS 6850's for $100 more (he'd have to grab this). He could make up that $100 difference by pirating windows (don't pretend nobody here does that) and then he'd be playing any game at ultra settings with no questions asked.

u/AnotherAsian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The best bang for the buck seems to be the Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus

u/pounds · 2 pointsr/buildapc The Hyper 212 Plus is on sale for $17 after mail in rebate. Not going to get anything that good for that cheap anywhere else.

...but I'd still get the EVO.

u/xcrackpotfoxx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So if you don't want to overclock, you can go with a much cheaper mobo. Sorry, no suggestions from me. I didn't research in non-OC parts.

If you want the hyper 101, you want the I version:

But most people reccomend the 212evo:

It seems that the 212 evo is superior for a small price increase. And the 101 you chose (the intel version) is only available from 3rd parties.

u/ihaveascreenname · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I ended up getting the Hyper 212 Plus because I read some reviews that said it was quieter than the Evo. I've never had an Evo, so I have no basis of comparison, but I just installed the Plus last night, and it was definitely quieter all day today than the stock cooler I took out of there.

On a separate but related note - I have a quad monitor setup, with 2 GPUs, 3770k, and WD Black, so my office gets pretty hot. The old fan I was using to cool the room was too loud for me to keep it on when having meetings on Skype. So I ordered a Vornado 660. On the lowest setting, it keeps me nice and cool, and is damn near silent, even from up close. So quiet in fact, that after I bought it, that's when I decided to replace the stock CPU cooler, as that was then the loudest thing in the room. So, I definitely recommend that Vornado - worth every penny.

u/Caisha · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Most of the computer noise comes from what is called the CPU "heatsink" - a small fan on top of the very small processor. It is usually a VERY good idea to replace the heatsink for various reasons, but also decreases sound issues (as the fans are better, larger, better designed structure, etc.) Heatsinks depend on some part on what type of CPU/Processor you have. This is the one I have: CPU Heatsink for AMD edit: it should be noted that the linked heatsink is compatible with a large array of CPUs, just check if yours is there! =)

Sound can also be caused by your case (vents, insulation, set up, rattling, etc.), the amount and size of the fans (larger fans are quieter - less rotations, or whatever).

Also, when installing heatsinks - or anything else - just save yourself the trouble and google an installation video on youtube.

u/a_single_testicle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers available

If your budget is strict, the NH-D14 is nearly as good.

If you're serious about the black/white theme, Phanteks makes a decent unit.

If you want to consider an AIO, the Corsair H80i is mostly black with RGB lighting.

u/NFG89 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

H100i should be good, but you need to make sure you can fit it on your case.

Amazon germany will deliver to Belgium for free for orders of 30 euros.

Keep in mind that what you have is essentially a piledriver based CPU that has been overclocked to insane speeds and as such it will consume lots of power and release lots of heat. Generally the CPU throttles at 60-65 degrees and seeing as you are already hitting those and more I would be worried.

Try to do some management to improve airflow as well. At full load that GPU + CPU will be like an ezbake oven in your case.

u/TransferMePokemons · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hmm. Good to know.
Updated parts list:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $131.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | $535.63 @ Amazon
Case | Enermax - OSTROG ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.70 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus - VX238H 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor | $139.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1472.71
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1452.71
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-24 09:13 EDT-0400 |

Note: I already have the Monitor, the case, the hard drive, and the power supply.

I might change out the power supply for a 500W one though or Change out the stock cpu cooler. I've been looking at noctua cpu coolers, esp. this one They seem sleek as hell.

u/forthecake · 2 pointsr/Amd

an alternative then would be to get the NHD14 which is just a little older. You would have to order the noctua bracket from them for free or buy it from amazon for $7. The NHD14 is only 65$ though!

u/leachyboy77 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'd say it all depends on your budget and how much extra work you're willing to do. Air coolers require a lot less maintenance and have fewer points of failure, so can be seen as a bit safer. The Dark Rock 4 is a good one, although if you're up in that price range I'd recommend anything from Noctua. Their stuff is bulletproof, the build quality is incredible. The NH-D14 is available for the same price as the Dark Rock 4 (the NH-D15 replaced it at a slightly higher cost, I'd go for that if you want the best of the best) and I think would be your best bet for air cooling.

However if you're really going after overclocking it as far as possible and you want to have more headroom, then out of what you recommended I'd say to go for the H115i if you're good with paying for it.

u/TreeNuts0 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I use:

With this thermal paste:

The heatsink is large but it's super quiet. That whole family of heatsinks has good reviews.

u/okp11 · 2 pointsr/buildapc


And they have free shipping on orders over $100. Whos to say he wouldnt buy $20 more worth of stuff?

u/Lavins · 2 pointsr/overclocking

If you were to lower the cost of your memory and completely remove your DVD drive (install Windows using a USB drive), you can pick up one of the NH-D14's. They're very popular and are just as good as Corsair/Asetek CLC's.

u/iHazzam · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There are two heatsinks in the photo. The closer one to the camera is marked "CM" (cooler master) on the top, and is a Hyper 212 evo with no fans on it. The other one is a noctua NH-D14 and will fit in most ATX cases. It however will cover the first ram slot on most motherboards, requiring RAM used in the slot to be put in first, and be under 44mm high.

u/jangobotito · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Considering picking these up. Any changes I should make and is there any chance of any of these going lower?


u/gphan331 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If its just for gaming then I would get the cooler, but I would rather get a high end air cooler like the noctua nh-d14 rather then a 120mm rad cooler like the h60

u/momohaid · 2 pointsr/Amd

That cooler while decent, is pretty small compared to what you should be using nowadays. Getting a better cooler makes SUBSTANTIAL difference. Remember, heat kills.

I suggest either a Noctua D15 or a 240mm AIO at the least if you have the budget.

A couple cheaper but great price to performance coolers I picked out are these:


Sycthhe Ninja 5

Noctua D14

BeQuiet DR4


Coolermaster 240

Deepcool captain 240

u/TrueNoob101 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

its a longshot but i have a d14 cooler. pm me if interested.

u/Kurosaku · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste

The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how,

u/cleesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

u/MiamiFFA · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. This is a very good cpu cooler and is reasonably quiet.

Edit: What is your current cpu cooler?

u/dumplestilskin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best budget cooler but it is too tall for many older cases. Something like this will do the job and the price is right.

u/jjrmm7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It does not hurt to have one. Extends harware life span and if you ever consider pushing extra FPS by overclocking, you'll have it already:

u/brodiegeek · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey OP! To answer your question, that will be one hell of a PC. I have a question though, are you using a stock cooler on your i5-4690? I honestly wouldn't recommend it. If you're going air cooling, go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. If you are going with liquid cooling, I would go with the Kraken X31.

u/Defiant001 · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

Looks good to me, only thing missing is an SSD, they can be had dirt cheap now and shouldn't be overlooked even in a budget build. Here is a great option with free shipping, another larger option with free shipping.

The 7700K and Kaby Lake friends should be released around the end of this year, you may find yourself having to upgrade sooner than later before the 6700K goes out of stock. I would reconsider putting the money for the 6500 towards the 6700K now unless the budget is super tight, in which case I would go i3 6100 since you are planning on upgrading anyway. 6700K cheapest with free shipping I could find. I believe you also get another $5 off when signing up a new account. Keep in mind the 6700K doesn't come with a cooler, so a 212 EVO would be a solid option.

You could save some money on the case as well, here are some sale options. Make sure what you get is full atx compatible.

u/Noebravo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I live in venezuela, so 30°c is a normal temperature.
Mi solución fue usar 2 disipadores de 240mm en el frente y uno de 120mm en la parte trasera para hacer el aire circular, mi case es genérico así que le hice unos pequeños agujeros al frente y para el cpu tengo un cooler Master este para ser exactos

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes

Uso un AMD x4 860k y una nvida GTX 1050 con 16gb de ram, a día de hoy no tengo problemas con la temperatura, trata de mantener tu PC limpia y las pastas térmicas de CPU y GPU en buen estado.

u/randobilau · 2 pointsr/Amd

I would suggest a tower style air cooler in the $30-$40 range. They are the most reliable and simplest solution, and offers the most value for your money. There's quite a lot of options:

bq! Pure Rock Slim $30


CM Hyper 212 EVO $35


CM Hyper 212 Black $37


Arctic Freezer 34 $34


Enermax ETS-TF40F $36


There's like a half dozen more options, these are some highlights looking at the current cooler prices on pcpartpicker.

u/jmsinclair88 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes

XFX Radeon RX 5700 8GB GDDR6 3xDP HDMI

Patriot 16GB(2x8GB) Viper III DDR3 1866MHz (PC3 15000) CL10 Desktop Memory With Black Mamba Heatsink - PV316G186C0K

u/HuynhDerek · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan
It's this the same one except red led?

u/AlicSkywalker · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

For the fan, something like this: will do. Remember that liquid cooler has two parts that make sound: pump and fan. Also they are more likely to break than air coolers

>HardOCP did review both the H7 and H60.



> It seems like the H60 wins out a little at max temperatures, but otherwise the H7 is as cool and they're equally noisy.

u/Luisdlr · 2 pointsr/buildapc

We have the same build with a few differences. I'm going with the Inwin 101 ATX Case (Black). Z370P motherboard and a Cryorig Cooler.

Would you recommend your motherboard and cooler? Or does it make no difference which I choose?

u/digisax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

An 8600k is a great choice and it'd save you $110 so you could upgrade to a 1070ti (link) or 1080 (link) to get better gaming performance.

The k chips don't come with stock coolers anymore, and the stock coolers wouldn't be adequate anyway. Since you don't plan to OC, a Cryorig H7 (link) would fit the bill too keep it cool and quiet while still fitting in the same budget.

u/Adjective_Pants · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah mine is OC'd using a default overclocking profile from my motherboard. Here is the cooler I've been using.

u/SweetButtsHellaBab · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It's a little more expensive but the Cryorig H7 is a good cooler and only 145mm tall:

u/MrHavx · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

actually, i found a cpu cooler better than the hyper 212 evo and is smaller and slightly cheaper. The Cryorig H7 is only 145mm in height, so it fits in smaller cases, looks way nicer, and performs better, ive had both of them. This cpu cooler runs at 20c idle and playing gta 5/bf4/ csgo only reaches 45c, which is REALLY good. Check it out.

u/Attainted · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yep! One extra thing though, even if you don't overclock it I'd suggest getting a new CPU cooler unless you already have an aftermarket one. The Cryorig H7 seems to be the best recommendation right now.

u/kronkifer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

... I can't remember what changed but it still looks good :)

The H7 is $35 on Amazon.

u/ChrisDaBOSS7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Also the hyper Eco 212 or something like that are both pretty good, I think the hyper can be sort of large though but would just do a google search of air coolers and see what works with your case

u/LeapofFaith2016 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There's this - - "Ready to dispatch in 54 days"!!!

Also a couple of European sellers on Amazon (UK) - - but expensive.

Or just go with the tried and tested Hyper 212 EVO!

u/liamc99 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I always liked this CPU fan and it looks alright. ofcourse you can always go the RGB route but you gotta pay the RGB tax.

u/SimplyAlegend · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It can happen, but not for 2 fans unless you are having some fans that drain a buttload of power. As a rule of thumb, 1 A at 12 V, so 12 W is fine for most fan headers.

Just to make it sure, are you sure that the fan header on your Mobo is a full PWM header and not a fake one?

If its full PWM; you can get a PWM splitter. Swifftech, Silverstone and Phobya sell those. They take the PWM signal of a single header and splitt it for up to 8 ports, but the power comes from a Sata or Molex power connector.

u/MikesHD · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Use a pwm hub, it's internal and you plug it into your CPU pwm (must use it as they need pure PWM), then plug the 4 fans into that.

Phanteks makes one (though that seems geared to 3 pin fans):

Here's another, a 4 pin one:

u/A_Neaunimes · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A320, B350, X370, it all works the same vs Ryzen 2.
And unless you have a Ryzen3 and want to get a Ryzen 7, there will be probably minimal incentive to get the newer gen once it's there.

>The main things I wanted out of changing mobos was better VRMs, better features

yeah I read that the first time.
Again, this will give you no performance boost, so it's essentially a useless upgrade, that you end up paying money for.
As for the "more fan headers", just get a fan hub and be done with it.

u/Klaus0225 · 2 pointsr/Amd

You can also get a fan controller if you don't have enough headers such as: Fan Controllor

u/Palmdzn · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This one supports 8 fans and runs off sata

u/MyBeaverHurts · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The One I use. Does the trick.

u/GalacticArachnids · 2 pointsr/Amd

You just might not have enough airflow. try getting 2 top mounted exhaust fans, and another intake fan. Something cheap like Arctic F12s could work for now to see if that's your issue.

Also if you're running mATX you might want to get a fan header splitter like this, If you don't have enough inputs.

Also what is your room temp?

u/MMWDMP · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes. I would recommend this

u/GuiltyRhapsody · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This one has all 5 for u but it's a bit expensive.

You could go for this cheaper one and use a molex adapter for the 5th one to save $5 :)

u/TeamAmerica5 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So yeah you have three ports available to plug fans directly in to the motherboard. What I would recommend over a Molex adapter would be a hub like this.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

Still plug your cpu fan directly into the cpu fan hub on the mobo, but plug all the other fans into the hub, with the hub plugged into one of the system fan ports. And voila, now you have support for 7 more fans.

Glad I can help, feel free to ask for clarification on anything else.

u/sean_c_roberts · 2 pointsr/buildapc

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

u/poonedundies · 2 pointsr/sffpc

Don't spend $50 dollars on a fan controller. Just get this. You can also easily run 3 fans on each Mobo header but any more than that and you'll be pushing the voltage.

u/JBTownsend · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

As many as your heart desires really. Never limit yourself to what your motherboard can do, you can easily expand it with something like this:

I have two of these in my system and control 12 fans at once via PWM and my motherboards fan curve settings.

u/Zebiusu · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Your motherboard only has one header for case fans, so without a hub, you wouldn't be able to use more than one fan. This is what I bought and it's been working great. You won't be able to see the part on PCPP unfortunately. Any PWM fan will work with that.

u/ItsADumbName · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Fan Hub:
SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

RGB Splitter:
2 pcs black 4 Pins LED Splitter Cable LED Strip Connector 4 Way Splitter Y Splitter for One to four RGB 5050 3528 LED Light Strips with 10x Male 4 Pin Plugs -30cm/12inch Long (1 to 4Splitter Cable)

NZXT Internal USB Hub - Expands 5 USB 2.0 Ports - Sleek Multifunctional Design - Molex Connection - Plug and Play

u/Skivvy9r · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You want a fan hub like THIS. You can connect three pin female connectors to the four pin males, they just run at full power.

u/ropid · 2 pointsr/archlinux

The picture you found is a bit blurry. That "IT856SE" you are seeing could actually be "IT8665E"?

There is an extended version of the it87 driver that's not in the normal kernel, and it has an "IT8665E" in its device ID list:

It is not mentioned in the README text, but the IT8665E support is inside that "it87.c" file.

Sadly, the person that worked on extending the it87 module gave up recently, he felt he had no time to do a good job. I don't know if there's someone else actively working on it somewhere.

Anyway... on Arch you have this special version of the it87 driver in the AUR as:


This AUR package should be easy to use if everything works right. Before you install it, you just have to make sure you have the "...-headers" package for the kernel you are using installed. For example, if you use "linux" then install "linux-headers", or if you use "linux-lts" install "linux-lts-headers".

If nothing works, you could do a hardware solution. A simple way to solve this is to wire the PWM signal from the CPU fan header to all case fans. You then go and set the fan curves in the motherboard's BIOS menus, and you are done.

There's inexpensive fan hub products to do this. If your case fans are 4-pin PWM fans, the products are quite cheap, but there's also versions that can translate a PWM signal into voltage control for 3-pin fans, so 3-pin case fans can be made to work as well.

Here's two examples of what I'm thinking about:

This one here can drive 3-pin fans, it translates the PWM signal into different voltages so it's more expensive:

All of those products get power from a cable that's connecting to the PSU. This is so they won't overload the motherboard fan header. They only connect to the motherboard fan header to get the PWM speed signal but won't draw power from there.

You can also make the graphics card drive case fans in hardware. There are adapter cables that can connect into that tiny 4-pin fan header that graphics card have. You can then get the fan signal from the graphics card to one or two case fans. Those adapters cables are a bit hard to find. You could do a setup where the motherboard's CPU fan header drives a case fan or two, and the GPU drives a case fan or two.

u/YouAreWrongBot · 2 pointsr/buildapc

More quick googling...

>CPF04 is designed for enthusiasts with need for controlling numerous system fans.It is capable of expanding one motherboard PWM fan header to support up to eight fans. Powered directly by SATA cable from the computer power supply and filtered through a built-in 2200μF capacitor, the CPF04 can provide clean, stable voltage to any fan for optimal performance. Equipped with speed detection sensors for accurately controlling eight PWM fans simultaneously, it is an excellent solution for system fan expansion.

$13 USD on Amazon

Someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but that seems like what you're looking for. I think you just need to make sure that you plug that hub into the one controllable port.

I'd recommend doing a little research because i'm not 100% on that, though it sounds pretty good to me.

Edit: See my other comment. No PWM fans, no control.

u/Talks_To_Cats · 2 pointsr/buildapc

>In my mind, I figured if they all hook up to the hub, that should power the the leds and the fans. I’m guessing this is not the case.

Thats not the case. The fans have two cables for a reason. One controls the fan functionality, one controls LED functionality.

>So my question now is, if I only have two spots on the board and 5 fans total, how do I connect them all?

You'll want to get a fan hub, ideally a PWM hub like this one. It connects to your PSU (for power) and your motherboard (for speed control) and will let you run multiple fans off one motherboard header.

u/cas13f · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That would not be an ideal one, but yeah.

4 fans on a single fan header is very much stretching the capability, as it's pulling all of the power for them from the single header.

This one uses SATA power so you can safely power more fans with control from a single header

With both, ALL of the connected fans are going to have the same speed, as they are controlled by the single fan header's output.

u/CattusKittekatus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, a fan hub would be good

example like this, it connects directly to your PSU using SATA cable so no need to worry about having lot of fans

and it also connects to motherboard so you can still control all the fans (but all at the same time)

u/specialedge · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have 10 fans I want to work at the same speed, so I use two of these:

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

The power comes from the psu, so the pwm control can come from the motherboard. I get that signal from one single fan header using a y-splitter

u/095179005 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's totally up to you! That's definitely some eye candy though.

You could get this. It supports up to 4 PWM fans(Silverstone states only the connectors on the glossy side support 4-pin fans).

u/Redhood_905 · 2 pointsr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

SilverStone Technology All Black 1-to-8 PWM Fan Hub (CPF04)

You can get a pwm fan hub.

u/DGTownsman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Echoing the other comments, I wouldn't split a single mobo header that many times without supplemental PSU power. I'd personally go with this Silverstone hub so you can have up to 8 fans.

u/xyz940 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

it actually has 1 case fan header the other one is for the CPU cooler so you can't use it with a regular fan

either a fan y-splitter or a fan hub

with a either you will not be able to control each fan's speed as they all share the same PWM signal and you might run into current limitation for motherboard (unlikely)

with a cheap fan hub you won't run into any current issues but you will still not be able to control each fan speed (all fans will work at the same speed - you would be able to control that speed)

If you want to control each fan individually you would need a 5.25" fan controller

u/motionglitch · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/4psae · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're seeing 800MHz RAM then that's normal. You multiply it by 2 to get what speed your RAM is really running at. Hence Double Data Rate (DDR).

As for the fans, you don't need to replace the entire motherboard. Just buy a fan hub. That one supports up to 8 fans, supports speed control if you plug it into your motherboard, and is powered by a SATA connector. Your PSU should have some spare cables or one that's already dangling inside your case.

Don't use a fan hub/fan splitter that will power more than two fans through one header on the motherboard. It could overload.

u/mjcov · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

idk, it's not $40, but I just got one of these doodads because my new heatsink (Cryorig H7) blocks one of the fan headers I was using. It works. I don't know if there's any benefit, but it powers all the fans directly from the PSU instead of via the motherboard, but gets the pwm and fan speed signals from the mobo. If your fans don't all match though, it only reads the speed from the one that's plugged in to the designated port, but the PWM signal still gets passed through so they'll all spin at their correct speed.

Oh, also, if you have a silverstone PSU, the short cable set PP05-E is good to reduce cable clutter.

If your keyboard has cherry-compatible switches, these are some nice keycaps for it. If it's not a mechanical keyboard (looks like it might be from the pic) then get one.

u/Cozmo85 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Any PWM splitter will work (did you buy PWM fans or 3pin fans). Whether its simple cables or into a box like this

Running 6 of those fans per channel wont be a problem at all. If you were ever worried about power you could always use one of these.

They power the fans from the PSU and send the pwm and rpm signal to the controller.

Personally I used to use asus fan control and it seemed to lag in response (took a while to respond to temperatures) plus the whole fact that it dictated motherboard choice in the future.

I use an Aquaero 6 Pro with 8 EK Vardar fans and an Aquacomputer d5.

I have it run my pump at 38% (you can adjust it in 1% increments)

I have it run my vardar fans DC controlled and it ramps them up based on water temperature. I have a water temp probe, an internal temp probe, and ambient temp probes on the outside of each radiator so i can measure incoming air, internal air, outgoing air, and water temp.

It shows me the delta between ambient temp and water temp and runs my fans from ~500rpm to 900rpm depending on water temp

The benefit is its completely independent of the pc. I can change hardware, wipe the hard drive, reset the motherboard and my wc system keeps going with no configuration. Only thing it needs the pc in windows for is cpu and gpu temps which are really just so i can see them. You should control fans based on water temp, not gpu/cpu temp.

Want to run an led strip, it can do simple 12v led strips. It can run an RGB led. It can interface with flow meters and all kinds of shit.

u/justinmai · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The new corsair HD 120s look sick and offer great static pressure but... cost a kidney. :/ As for a fan controller, I would highly recommend the silverstone pwm fan controller ( Amazon ) and software like speedfan to control the rpms. Jayztwocents has a good tutorial on the software as it is a bit confusing at first. Best of luck!

u/dimensiation · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you are OK with all fans being controlled by the same header, use something like this:

It'll allow any 4 pin fans to be controlled via the CPU FAN header.

If you need different fans running at different speeds, you'll likely want splitters for each motherboard header.

u/L00nyT00ny · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

I've had good use out of this fan hub. I plugged it into the cpu fan slot so all my fans are at quarter speed if CPU isn't under load, and only go all out if under heavy load.

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

>What is the theory of fan placement and different kinds of fans going in different parts of the case?

/u/dweller_12 provided the fan size and locations for your case. Using this information, you'd do a 120mm intake for the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back at the minimum. If you feel like you need additional airflow, add 2 120mm fans up top as exhaust and 2 120mm fans on the side as intake. This is overkill though.

If you have a 240mm AIO for your CPU, I'd recommend mounting it to the top as an intake and using the front and back fans as exhaust. Bringing cool air into the case will reduce CPU temps better than pushing warmer air out of the radiator.

> What happens if I put a HF fan in the front instead of a SP? are all front intake fans SP? Are SP fans louder?

The whole HF vs SP isn't worth worrying over (especially when it's a single degree of difference. You're better off using decent PWM fans or 3-pin fans connected to a fan controller like the Silverstone PWM Fan Hub.

> Is there a cooling/noise performance boost with bigger fans (120 vs 140)?

Larger fans can push the same amount of air as smaller fans with less noise. They can also push more air at the same noise level as smaller fans. This doesn't apply to you since you cannot fit 140mm fans in your case.

If noise is a concern, I mounted a 120mm basic Cooler Master fan in front of my 5.25" drive bays to cool my HDDs and SSD (used 3.5" to 5.25" brackets, did this to remove the 3.5" drive bays for better air flow). There is no noticeable noise difference with the additional fan, but all 3 drives have dropped 10°C.
> What other factors should I be concerned about?

Dust. Get fan filters and clean them out regularly. I don't have any pets, but I do have carpet in my bedroom that gets vacuumed never rather infrequently.

> I'm planning on getting budget Corsair fans with LEDs (not rgb because I have no mobo headers). Anything I should know?

Keep them clean.

u/angelsilva · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought this: [fan hub!] ( and have 4 ML120, you can modify the speed of the fans with your motherboard or with speedfan, the only problem is that if you plug your ml140 it will run at the same rpm as the others fans, to control the rpm of your fans you need to plug one fan to the corner of the hub that is marked, also you can plug and control up to 8 fans

u/ryanvsrobots · 2 pointsr/sffpc

Just got some liquid metal today! ...also 4x 40mm and 2x 60mm Noctuas (I have a problem with buying crap on amazon.) Going to see if I can fit the 60's in there along the top grill - I hate opening this thing up so I haven't bothered to actually measure it. I got this controller to run the fans. Pretty sure I'l either fry the mobo or my computer is going to fly away.

I'll make a separate post after I cram the fans in there, but I'm also going to try to actually install the backplate on my cooler so it might not be a great control test.

u/Used_Taco · 2 pointsr/buildapc

These fan hubs work well.

u/ShadySkins · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can buy a fan hub that is powered off of SATA from your PSU. Up to 8 fans off of one header. I was doing this myself, but I could not control the fan speed from my BIOS. It was at full throttle all the time. Here I found out the issue was specific to Gigabyte mobos. I abandoned the hub and went with splitters. I'm fortunate to have 3 headers on my mobo, so I only needed to split each of them once to accomodate 6 fans.

Besides the issue without being able to control speed.... the hub was great and worked as advertised. Maybe you can try this and have better luck than me.

u/AddictedToAsianFood · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Currently $103 New on Amazon for the Newest version (V2)

u/erniuss · 2 pointsr/watercooling i would say something like that would do the job, but then again, are you even planning to overclock that cpu ? cuz if not you would be okay with stock cooler or atleast something like evo 212 where you would save up 70usd ish .

u/gunslingerx64 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

O dear god. Got a picture of the inside of the case? Intel states that the max safe temp is 103C. You should be worried prob after 90c. Stock cooler? #yes
If yes buy new one. On a budget? Hyper 212 EVO if not grab a Corsair pre filled water cooler like an H60 or better H100i

u/mikemd1 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The best and relatively easiest ways to address poor aesthetics in the CPU are a modular or semi-modular PSU and replacement sleeved and color coordinated cables from said PSU, or if they are too expensive (and they are) sleeved cable extensions look just as good and are way cheaper, but create additional cable management.


Regarding a cooling system you should definitely still have one even if you are not OC'ing. If you want to go cheap, get a solid air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo. If you are more concerned about looks, maybe consider an AIO, like the EVGA CLC240. It's more expensive, but looks nice.


Not 100% sure what you mean about the front facing fan, but if you are asking about fan placement, then yes at the front of the case is fine just make sure it isn't going against the airflow of other fans. If you mean fan orientation, like intake/exhaust, then that is also fine, with the same caveat. Generally speaking you want your airflow coming in the front/bottom and exhausting out the top/back.


EVGA 600BQ Semi-Modular (MB power is the only non-modular)

One thing to keep in mind about PSU's is they tend to go on sale more frequently and at better discounts (percentage wise) than many other PC components.


Cable Extensions:

Antec Sleeved PSU extension cables


CPU Cooler:

Hyper 212 Evo (Air cooler-Cheap and functional, not pretty)

CLC 240 (AIO water cooling- Pretty and functional, not cheap)



Hope this helps!

u/Snoochey · 2 pointsr/wow
u/ubercritical · 2 pointsr/Amd

That would work but for a couple dosh more, I would go with the 212 EVO instead. Unless, for some reason, you NEED the T2.

u/obsequiousmuddle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I wouldn't get that Kingston ssd. There was a bait and switch with the unit and the early drives (the ones reviewers got) were much faster than the ones they make now. I would replace that with something else like a Samsung 850 EVO. You may also want to consider getting a hard drive for mass storage, videos take up a lot of space.
You could also get an after market CPU cooler to overclock a bit or just get a quieter PC, although it is not necessary. You don't need anything expensive, a hyper 212 evo.
other than that the build looks fine.

u/Okieant33 · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Well, mainly I needed a new CPU because my PC would shut off completely. I thought it was the PSU but when I ran Prime 95 and stress tested the CPU, I got the same result and my PC would shut off.

So I upgraded with these parts: (haven't installed this yet) (had a 200GB SATA HDD and it was old and slow. SSD has really helped the speed out)

I'm keeping my eye out for the RX480 when that comes out. It's supposed to be as good as the GTX 980 and only cost $200. Waiting on benchmarks with heavy breathing.

u/montaire_work · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Checking Amazon I can get :

For $109


For $30 - I'll need a better cooler since I am not currently over clocking the 2500k and am using stock cooling.

Thats $140 - half the cost of a new 6400 combo - do you think that the 2500k will work for the Oculus Rift, and do you think its worth spending that kind of money to salvage?

u/digitalRistorante · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Here was my attempt, came in about $40 over if you have Amazon Prime. Decent build - definitely a great home to drop a GPU into later. glhf!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i5-6600k Quad-Core Processor | $237.89 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Evo 212 CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards GA-G1.Sniper B7 | $109.93 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $64.74 @ Amazon
SSD | Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $124.99 @ Amazon
Case | Apex Vortex Mid Tower Case | $40.44 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 600B Bronze Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $647.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-24 18:59 EDT-0400 |

u/nosas · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

I bought this 212 EVO from Amazon and set it up today.

I'm really liking it. Keeps the PC cool, it's fairly silent, and definitely worth the price ($22.50 + tax, free s/h).
It says used because there's damage to packaging, however it's not actually been used.

u/stereo_radio · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/aniel300 · 2 pointsr/homedefense

hello, in my opinion you should not get an nvr for the fact that they are expensive and you can not upgrade them down the line, what i recommend is building a pc base nvr and use the blue iris softwere, my recommendation and my current set up is:

if you have an old computer you can save some parts and moeny by reusing the power supply, hdd and maybe the case. all that will be around 250-300, the you will have 200 to buy 4 poe 1080p cameras 50 each, and good things is that you can add more later on, best of the luck, you do need few more parts so let me know if you interested and i will put them together for you. you can take a look at mine at demo/demo for username and passowrd.

u/Knada · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

This is what I picked up after the h60 wasn't keeping my cpu cool enough to play GTAV.

u/peareater · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Build complete!

I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:

  1. If you want the X58, consider a case with USB 2.0 ports on the front panel. The Cooler Master HAF 922 only has USB 3.0 ports, which are meant to connect to the motherboard with a 20-pin connector. The X58 lacks a port for this type of connector, so I will have to install something like this Anker Uspeed card if I want to use the front USB ports.

  2. The first two SATA ports on the board are 6 Gb/s, but they are on a separate Marvell controller, which by all accounts is absolute garbage. I am using the 3 Gb/s ports, which are on an Intel controller, and those seem fast enough for me. I disabled the Marvell in the BIOS.

  3. Make sure to switch your storage mode to AHCI if you want to get the most out of your SATA drives. The BIOS defaults to IDE mode. (And the ASUS manual is mostly useless because it doesn't tell you anything you can't already infer from the names of the BIOS settings.)

  4. You need to manually configure the boot order of your hard disks, otherwise it will try the wrong disk and fail to find your OS. I had a moment of panic because I forgot that my boot partition is not on my SSD but rather on the original HDD that came with my Dell.

    Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)

    The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.

    Final tally:

u/MorbidRampager · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Only if you're going to overclock the CPU. The stock heatsink and cooler that comes with that amd CPU isn't bad... As long as you don't overclock...

However, if you do decide to overclock, I recommend the hyper 212 evo. It's about $33, but is really a fantastic cooler for the price. Very quiet, very efficient, couldn't ask more of it.

u/iAmZephhy · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Actually, I missed that part out.

Get this; the Hyper 212 EVO by Cooler Master:

It's like the most recommended cooler on the planet xD.

u/DiLisioMatrix · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

i have coolermaster too. this cpu can take a beating i've learned in terms of o/c but safer is better

and i think you misread my comment. if youtube uses flash, then if its not up to date it might stop working in youtube because now csgo is using it for the GUI. i thiiiiiiink i had this issue aaaaages ago but thats when i had a shit pc so i attributed it to that

this cooler

this board with auto o/c (idk if you can find the settings it changes on the interwebs or not)

u/ParrotHere · 2 pointsr/techsupport

CPU Coolers usually work with a lot of different boards and CPUs.
For example, THIS CPU cooler works with LGA 2011, 1366, 1151, 1150, 1155, 1156, 775,AMD: FM2+, FM2, FM1, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2 and AM1.

Note: I don't think you really need a new cooler. However, If you want lower temps then you'll need to get a new CPU cooler.

What GPU do you have?

u/Veritas413 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That's definitely a closed-loop system. These are supposed to last 4-5 years, but they have been known to break before that. There's a propylene glycol/water antifreeze fluid (just like a car) inside them, and a little pump (powered by the blue/green/yellow/black cable) pushes warm water from the CPU to the radiator, where is is cooled down and returned to the processor. When they fail they go one of two ways, either they get a crack in them and the water leaks, or the pump quits working.
It's possible that for some reason your motherboard has decided to not run the CPU fan (which is actually the pump) at 100% even though it's overheating (things like quiet mode can do this) and it's possible that when it's running at say 85% that it's not enough juice to start the pump... Check your BIOS for any quiet/silent mode settings and see if you can disable them. If the CPU fan is showing an RPM rating, this is actually the rating of the pump.

If you have gigabyte's tuning software installed, make sure you max out the CPU fan speed. Pumps are not fans, and it's possible that the pump just isn't getting enough power.

If the pump has gone bad, you can replace it with something similar (expect about the same life span and noise level). Personally, I'd switch to air cooling, as there's less that can go wrong. /r/buildapc could probably make suggestions... The only thing you need to be sure of with your next solution is that it works with AM3 processors. Your motherboard is compatible with standard 3-pin fans and 4-pin PWM fans, so you can pretty much use anything.

Personally, I have this a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. It's big. Very big. My case side almost doesn't fit on, but it's super quiet and doesn't depend on a pump. When idle, my CPU fan doesn't even need to run. It relies on heatpipes, which are VERY different from water cooling systems.

If you wanted to, you could switch back to a stock heatsink as well. The one that comes with your processor looks like this, but you may have a problem, it clips to a piece of plastic that appears to be missing from your motherboard (see here). You may have problems fitting OEM parts. I believe the Coolermaster fan I listed above will work even though that bracket is missing, but I'm not 100%

*edit: it looks like there's another black cable going into the heatsink in your top picture... Where does that go?

u/lennoxonnell · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Noctua is probably the best for silence.



They'll provide great cooling at very low RPMs, which render them virtually inaudible.

Edit: I can't provide any input into corsairs fans as i don't own them, but after owning [noctuas] for a while, the color scheme doesn't bother me one bit when i get confused if my system is even powered on :p. Gotta get close and listen for the harddisk.

u/1-21Gigawatts · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Everyone seems to love the Noctua NF-F12 PWMs. They're silent, resilient and powerful. Not very cheap (for fans) though, and if you don't like brown, the differently-colored variants are a bit more expensive I believe.

u/rallymax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought NF-F12. Do google though as I see people mentioning NF-A12x25 a lot and I haven't done research on various Noctua fan models.

u/Seriously_High_Guy · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sure bud, here is the cooler and here is the fan I put on the rad, completely optional but I'm certain makes a big difference in noise, as Noctuas are top end.

Also, here is the video tutorial for installation, an easy installation that takes a little over an hour if you have the right tools, but is pretty simple. Here is the tool set I used, and it gave me any size or fit that I needed to do this easily, plus is great if you ever do any computer customizing in general and need a nice set.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

u/AfterShock · 2 pointsr/synology

Sure thing, I used 2x of these in my Synology.

u/thejbone · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Very nice but expensive fans ($20 a fan) but it includes a fan splitter and etc if you need more ports for fans on your motherboard.

u/cecilkorik · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Noctua makes lovely fans. What do you mean you "don't know which ones to get"? It should be pretty straightforward? Get one of the appropriate size, preferably with PWM if your motherboard supports it, and make sure it's the high-pressure fan designed for heatsinks rather than a high-airflow fan for case ventilation. Like this.

u/zimork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

NF-F12 are Premium fans with rubber feet for reduced noise.

u/White_Shade · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

You can get them brand new on Amazon right now for $18.

u/Tylertooo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Bearings: sleeved<fluid dynamic<magnetic (as corsair would have you believe) FDB is fine.

Static pressure is important when forcing air through a radiator or fin array. It's the amount of pressure the fan can overcome. Generally you want to replace a radiator fan with something that has the same or higher static pressure.

I'm not really a fan of Corsair fans. If you have 4 pin PWM fans, then get these:

By far the best fans available, imo.

u/nnt_ · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The Monoprice printer can't really go hot enough to worry about needing borosilicate.

I've been using a $2 sheet I got locally for months without an issue. If it fails, I'll buy another.

Spend the money you saved to buy this

Put a 1 inch square at all four corners of the glass. It's tacky enough to keep the glass from shifting, but easy to remove. That package will basically be a lifetime supply.

Your head will crash into binder clips. They're super annoying.

u/wscarlton · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Bed heating will not be an issue. Here is what I (and a lot of others have done):

Take off the BuildTak so that you have the bear aluminum bed (make sure to clean it of all the leftover adhesive from the BuildTak). Get some silicone pads and cut about 2"x2" squares and place them at each corner. Place the glass plate on top and you're done.

Here is my setup.

u/mrgreen4242 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nothing to feel bad about! This stuff is new to everyone at some point and none of it is super intuitive.

My recommendation is to peel them both off, clean up the build plate up with rubbing alcohol, then get some glass sheets and cut them to 8x8" or 8x8.5", and use some of this stuff cut into 8-12 1x1" squares to hold it onto the build plate, 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

Spray it with a thin layer of hairspray and let it dry while the printer heats up. You'll have to re-level the bed of course and might need to move the z end stop to make it fit.

u/KevMag · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Buy gino pads. Put 6-8 50mmx50mm squares around just the outside of the bed, none in the center. Ditch the binder clips, glass is not nearly as stiff as most people think and the gino pads will hold the glass in place without distorting the glass.

u/excellentfrog · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Is it the 12" i3v? The PCB heatbed tends to warp when heated because the heating element is on one side of the PCB. When I was using bang-bang, I placed the nozzle at the center and was able to visibly see the PCB warp away from the nozzle during the heating portion of the cycle (every ~5 seconds).

The following helped me:

  • Switch from bang-bang to PID (configuration.h in Marlin). You will need to replace the mechanical relay with a solid state relay (SSR). I recommend this one - If you decide to get a Fotek or similar instead, try to order one with a much higher current rating than you need.
  • Buy 12"x12" mirror tile from Lowes. It's a little bit thicker than cut glass and so it is less prone to bending.
  • Stick the mirror tile to the PCB heat bed using the silicone thermal pads instead of using the bulldog clips. Clipping the glass to the PCB heatbed will cause it to bend with the heatbed. (
  • Make sure your hotend and extruder assembly is not loose on the x-carriage. Wiggle it up and down with your hand. See if the eccentric nut needs adjusting.
u/ZombieGrot · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

0.5mm silicone pads like this are what most people use. Example (on a different style printer).

My build plate is flat enough that I can just arrange the pads in an array. If yours is really bad, you may be able to skip the ones over the highest spots. The glass will be slightly cooler there, so give it enough time to preheat and, perhaps, take the hot/cool spots into account when arranging the print in your slicer.

u/o_kisutch · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Heat the bed to 60°, and the buildtak will come off perfect. Then use a thermal gpu pad between the metal and the glass.

u/Tron08 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:

Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:

u/blahism · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I trimmed up some stuff like this: - it's kind of sticky (frusterating) to work with but works well. There may be other sellers with some already fit for your size.

u/shuttup_meg · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You don't have to have anything between the glass and the bed, but I used this stuff:

I didn't use any clips to hold it on, just gravity--which won't work on your space station unless you are spinning your setup--but I did have one print that messed up and moved the bed a little. I probably should use clips, even though that wouldn't have saved my print. i.e. if a print is at the point where the nozzle is trying to push the part with a force that is able to overcome the coefficient of static friction you have probably already lost the print.

u/seentoomuchlately · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I used this stuff in between the bed and the glass.

u/Spiraldox · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

get some silicon pads..

I cut them into triangles and put them in each corner of the glass bed. It'll hold it snug and won't move while you're printing.

u/zarderxio · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The glass bed does not need to touch for the heat transfer. As /u/Grey406 recommends, get thermal pads, but get these:

Cut them in two inch squares and put them maybe in each corner and one in the middle (do not fill the whole bed). I would highly suggest not using binder clips. I have the maker select 2.1 and this is a great setup, PLA and PETG have been great with it. The heat will transfer just fine with it floating on top and I've found the binder clips will warp thinner glass. Use aqua hairspray if you need to.

For the glass size: Either get the glass cut to fit within the screws, or buy a dedicated piece of borosillicate glass on amazon that will fit your bed size.

u/3170 · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

Not that I recall, but I bought a pretty early version of the Monoprice Maker Select when they dropped the price a few years ago, and the glass bed was one of my first additions.

The mod isn't difficult. I had a 16"x24" piece of window glass cut into four 8" squares. They did it at the hardware store (Lowe's iirc) for no extra charge.

The squares lay on the bed using four 1" (or so) thermal pads. I bought a sheet of the stuff from Amazon and just cut what I needed. It occasionally tears, so I replace it a couple of times per year. Using the thermal pad eliminates the need for binder clips or something more elaborate to hold the glass on the printer's bed.

The Z-Stop adjuster I used is so old that I probably wouldn't use it today. Just search Thingiverse and pick one you like. There are some nice designs out there.

Here's the process I would follow:

  1. Install the z-stop adjuster and raise it all the way up.
  2. Adjust the bed so that you are at the mid-point of the adjustment screws
  3. Put the thermal pad on the corners of the bed
  4. Put the glass on the thermal pad
  5. Adjust the Z-Stop so that it activates just before your nozzle hits the bed
  6. Level the bed like you normally would - by adjusting the four screws at the corners

u/Macecraft31 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

As I understand it, it helps the glass make good thermal contact with the hotbed. It was a pain to get in place (think the world's most unruly and sticky saran wrap). But it is the best upgrade Ive made so far. Here's what I have:

thermal pad:

glass plate:

u/Quasimorte · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

No need for clips, cut small squares and put between glass and bed. Heat still transfers and the silicone keeps the glass from moving.

u/ACM1911 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I probably wouldn't glue it on. I will probably go with these thermal pads in the future.

u/AP0is0nb3rry · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have a thermal pad sandwiched between the glass plate and the bed and it provides decent friction to keep the plate on but I also use two metal bag clips in the front and back to make sure the plate is pressed against the bed.

Glass Plate: BKM 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Plate, Select Mini

Alternatively, I've heard of people using glass they cut from a picture frame using a glass cutter

Thermal Pad: uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

Not entirely necessary but supposedly this helps transfer heat more evenly and you get a huge sheet so you can get like 4 uses out of it if you optimize your cutting.

u/alexamoUS · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You should try with that silicone thermal pad.
not easy to install cause super thin but once done, you won't even need biners to hold the glass on top of it

u/kingofkingsss · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not OP, but I got this - look for something similar/same size. to attach it to the metal plate

I ended up getting this and m3 tape too.

u/BongBudz · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I started to print out the clamps for the glass bed mod but didn't like the way they worked so I ordered a Thermal pad that makes the glass stick without clamps. If you remove that black pad on your bed it fits nice a snug. All you need to do is heat up your bed to 100c and once it gets nice and warm use something to pull up a corner of the black pad & voila new glass bed. The glass bed will make your first layer butter smooth.

u/honoredtwig · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You want this, it's a thermal conductor, not an insulator.

It works great for me (I wish I could claim this as my own, but I learned about it from the Wanhao Google Group).

u/AGentlemanWalrus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.

Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.

Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.

If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.

Artic Silver 5


Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Prolimatech PK-3

There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.

After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.

Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!

u/SuperAngryGuy · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

That combo will work for a 5 gallon Space Bucket as long as you have a spacer or two since 60 watts with a gen 7 Vero is going to produce a lot of light.

You will be over driving the Vero 18 a little but they are well designed for that. You will want a good thermal paste, though.

Now you need to find a heat sink and you should then have a nice light combo for a 5 gallon bucket. As per application notes, the Vero 18 can be used with a thermal epoxy so you can glue the Vero 18 to a heat sink if you don't want to drill/tap. Thermal adhesives are permanent.

u/idunowat23 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

I've put together two mini ITC builds. One with a cpu upgrade and one that just reuses your current cpu.

1) $525: i5-9600K upgrade

u/zouxlol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Arctic Silver 5

If you have a local tech shop they'll have some in stock

u/LanZx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can get some for 7 bucks in Amazon. Link

Also you'll need some 90% Isopropyl to clean of the existing paste

Here's a video on reapplying the paste

u/Fiyyaa · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I wouldn't take the risk with that one. I've never used air cooling so I'm not sure how sure it will keep it, but it is on the cheaper side and the heat sink is pretty small. If you're looking for cheap, good water cooling however, check out the Corsair H100
If that's over your budget, I wouldn't worry too much about over clocking it.. as it won't really effect whether or not you bottle neck.

u/bajungadustin · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...

But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.

So I got

Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97

JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55

Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21

Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24

SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25

10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4

Still have 8 dollars left over haha.

u/Richard_MF_Nixon · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

> I came to the realization that the PCI slots don't all have the same bandwidth (so I'm hoping this discovery may be a good thing)

It is! You'll now be able to use your SLI more efficiently. Just make sure there's no other damage to the board, but from what you said it seems ok now.

>Now, the big question for me: are these video cards too close together?.

Yeah, the top one is blowing hot air directly onto the PCB of the other one, hindering the top one's cooling and cooking the other. Look into getting them watercooled. I would stop using SLI until then if I were you.

>And a follow-up question: does anyone know of a better CPU fan than this.



This case is pretty much wife-proof especially if you swap out it's mesh top panel for a plexiglass one. Those are kinda hard to find but not impossible. Coolermaster may sell them directly.

u/thisisshantzz · 2 pointsr/india

Graphics Card mil jaayega.

In fact, you can get the cooling system that I bought too





Sirf mere RAM nahi mile. Gskill Ripjaws (32gb) 2 x 16. Baaki sab mil gaya India mein.

u/teelily88 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $84.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - Z270 TOMAHAWK ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $111.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $121.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $159.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Hybrid Gaming Video Card | $689.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $97.49 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Razer - Naga Hex V2 Wired Laser Mouse | $39.99 @ Best Buy
Speakers | Logitech - Z333 40W 2.1ch Speakers | $59.99 @ Amazon
Other| Logitech C922 Pro Stream Webcam| $100.00
Other| Logitech G233 Gaming Headset| $80.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2771.93
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $2731.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 17:19 EDT-0400 |

Over $700 on a 1080 is insane. Get the hybrid: water cooled and air cooled, blower will work as an exhaust as well.
I'm not a Cryorig fan and their customer service is HORRENDOUS. You can get a great AIO cpu cooler right now with prime sales (id legit get it now).
Changed to a nice quite tempered glass case that has light effects. they have different colors so take your pic on newegg.
1440p 144hz monitor w/ gsync
different speakers to save some money, still pretty good quality for 2.1
you can save ~$60 on your SSD if you make it the 260gb one.
you can save ~$40 on your webcam by getting the c920. the c922 is okay for cutting out the background, but I feel youre better off sitting in front of a green screen personally.

u/ZippyRS · 2 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

You're on about hardline. As its impossible to mess up installing liquid cooling.

u/laacis3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

r4 what. Do you mean am4 socket or r4 define case

Corsair's 240mm cooler:

u/Sneeko · 2 pointsr/gifs

You can buy what is called a "closed loop" system, which is basically a factory sealed water cooling block and radiator. They're not as sexy looking as a custom loop like this, but they are a lot safer for folks new to liquid cooling, or for those who don't want the hassle but want the benefits, or like in my case - It's not in a case where it's even really visible, so I was only really concerned with performance, not appearance.

Here is what I use, which happens to be one of the more popular closed loop liquid cooling solutions. Dead simple to install, and works like a champ.

u/gramkrakerj · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You're not wrong as far as the cooling goes, this thing needs a good cooler only if you overclock though, which you shouldn't do until later in it's lifespan for the extra horsepower. I'm using a hyper 212 evo for stock clock and it's fine. But if you look at some good AIO water coolers, they're around 100 which is super close to your nocua air cooler's price.

Overclocking + Delid thing all depends on your silicon lottery. You may not need to delid.

Your 8600k is not a bad buy, but when you compare prices, the deal microcenter offers a 300$ 8700k + $30 off mobo. That comes out to be basically the same price you're paying for an 8600k. The 8700k will last you longer as well. Just some food for thought.

u/Karavusk · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Yeah just check the seller information list and you will see that both of those cheap sellers are new accounts and a scam

u/SimplyAdept · 2 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Corsair H100i V2 £68.58 after discount


NZXT Kraken X52 £97.15

u/Kelsen2000 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nowadays they’re very simple. Almost plug and play.

Corsair h100i it’s not like the old modular systems where you needed a reservoir, the blocks, and the tubes. Although I’m sure you could go that route but it doesn’t sound like you’re trying to do anything that crazy. The h100 is just a cpu block with two big ol fans and coolant.

u/Cryptblade · 2 pointsr/iBUYPOWER

I let my 11 year old do it. Super easy. Here's what I used. Got 1 splitter and 2 fans.

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/ZeroPaladn · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you only have one header you need one. Here's an example.

u/kvswim · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Not totally sure for Vega 64, but on NVIDIA cards you need an adapter cable to connect the fans to the card.

Adapter looks like this

then you'll need a splitter to power both fans like this

u/BoiNil · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You should buy a fan splitter that connects directly to the fan header like this one. You could also buy this one if you know you won't be needing 4 fans any time soon.

u/dualtohex · 2 pointsr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

Just get this for your fans if you're going to use the full fan capacity of the case, but you won't need any if you only use the preinstalled ones. And of course if the mobo doesn't come with any. If the mobo come with one splitter, just buy the one pack of this:

u/nuldabz · 2 pointsr/NZXT

Ahh i see.

You can get a fan hub or pwm splitter for pretty cheep

DeepCool Fan HUB CPU Cooler Powers up to 4 Fans
Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable

u/therealcain · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you mean this one?

I wanted to use it at first, but i can't find it on any store in my country, and i don't want to wait 2 months shipping for it.

u/LEEMakesThings · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/Herdnerfer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Meh, they are all the same. This one looks good.

Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable

u/moises_327 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> Is it somehow possible to connect one or two more fans to the PC?

Fan splitters or a PSU fan adapter (beware, the last one can get pretty loud).

> how often do you change thermal paste and how do you remove it?

Not really often, once every year or so, maybe every other year. Just remember to change it everytime you remove the CPU cooler.

u/TwitchIDIOTSbanned · 2 pointsr/Amd

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad - Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)

u/chx_ · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

2242 to combo it's 84mm x 25mm x 8mm.

Google 32965693821 for cheap price. 120 GB. The whole thing will be <40 USD for a 120GB combo stick and be SATA SSD speed. 256GB version here.

For the best experience, invest in as well. I believe it will fit and transfer the heat to the body. I haven't yet tested this myself but I intend to.

u/Raw1213 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes artic is fine. I mostly use noctua or ic diamond for the little bit better cooling.

An easier and longer lasting method is using graphite pads like this one which is easier to use, it is reusable, and still has good performance.

u/BeastKingGod · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Here is a great forum on disassembly and repasting. Do what you feel most comfortable with.

This is the video I personally used for repasting, he uses Liquid Metal. I DID NOT

This is the method I chose to go with using above video.
I used IC Graphite Thermal Pads along with copper shims in a stacked formation. !!!Side note!!! I did use the slightest of thermal paste to stop the graphite pad from sliding around on the CPU/GPU. Like a smudge of a smudge. Then I under volted CPU by 110. I personally have not had a heating issue since, but this all just a suggestion.

This is what I used

Copper shim

This is what most people suggest**

Hope some of this helps

u/intxitxu · 2 pointsr/lgv20

Hands down the thermal paste transfer way better the heat. But is messy for an smartphone. And now we have graphite thermal pad with better heat dissipation.


The MX-4 is good stuff, but imagine you have to send your phone for guarantee or whatever, and the tech store goes like: OMG, look at this :) Warranty voided!!!

u/rajlego · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I’ll have to check again it seemed to be working and I didn’t have any issues with it getting super loud except for when it was getting hotter to the point of throttling. Though maybe it’s just not dissipating heat well enough.

On a side note, this is the graphite pad I used:

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)
Usually I’m not a fan of thermal pads but this one is supposed to perform almost as well as normal high end thermal paste from what I’ve read.

u/BitCloud25 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Try this? I heard it's good stuff from Linus, and reusable.

u/Morkai_AlMandragon · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/ParaXosM · 2 pointsr/ps3homebrew

Here is what I bought, youll need 2 of them. Then just wipe off the old paste and just drop these bad boys in its place. I need this in.. The beginning of august and here we are almost 90 days into it and I swear by them!

u/pokethat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

On Amazon.

Linus did a review on them. It's what made me buy mine. Keeps my Ryzen 2700x really happy along with my aio cooler.
Here is the LTT review

u/cgarray17 · 2 pointsr/sffpc

So the GPU is overclocked with stock fan curve, I have one EK Vardar fan at 700rpm under the GPU and under full GPU load my max temp has been 71c with a room temp of 22c.

On the CPU side I am using the wraith spire and currently CPU is stock speed as it runs at 3.8gh all core under gaming and it maxes out at 60c, I'm using the new graphite thermal pad instead of thermal past and am loving it and it can be reused over and over again. This is the link if your interested, I got the 30x30 but the 40x40 will fit ryzen better but it probably does not make a difference.

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)

With the stock wraith stealth I was getting about 72c and under on gaming loads. And keep in mind ryzen loves memory speed almost more then pure CPU overclock. I pushed my corsair c16 3200mh ram to 3466 with no issues at all and picked up more performance then a 4gh all core overclock and less heat.

u/DesertPunked · 2 pointsr/MSILaptops

Have you considered graphite pads?

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30 mm)

And the LTT video where I discovered it.

u/TitanIsBack · 2 pointsr/PS4

Did you consider this instead of thermal paste? From my experience, it's better than thermal paste.

u/inthebrilliantblue · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is where I got some

IC Graphite Thermal Pad (30 X30 mm)

u/caller-number-four · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Using this one with a DRP4 and a 9th gen i5:

Works great!

Using the 40x40 pads on 2 different DRP4 backed Xeon W-2133 systems and those work really well too.

u/CalipBer · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

It doesn't matter, in PSREF all 20BW boards are with vPro and 20BX only some of them are, but this is a security feature used by some business companies.Mine was i5 20BX and now I have i7 and everything works fine. If you choose to swab board don't forget to buy some Thermal compound for repasting CPU. I did a test and I bought Innovation Cooling LLC IC Graphite Thermal Pad, very easy to use and it's working great.

u/MoistBall · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A lot of great suggestions on here. In my opinion, hard drives and PSUs are your biggest concern. Everything else will work till obselesence. Don't cheap out on a PSU. Get a good one with a good warranty and you'll be fine for years. Hard drives; well they are what they are. They have a shorter life span (due to moving, mechanical parts) so they will eventually fail. One thing I haven't seen people address though is thermal paste.

Definitely needs to be replaced every 2-3 years. I found a better solution though. A graphite thermal pad works almost as well as the best thermal pastes out there but here's the best part: you just put it on and leave it. No paste. No glue. No mess. Doesn't dry out. Reusable. Make sure its only on the IHS (heat spreader) and not touching any electrical part. You can read the reviews and if you want a video for proof, Linus Tech Tips on youtube made a video about them and tested it out and showed the results.

EDIT: thermal paste/graphite pad for your CPU. Maybe you're a beginner so I just wanted to clarify that. I have also used graphite thermal pads for GPUs but thats me getting ahead of yourself. The main point is that watch out for paste. For simplicity, ease of use, pretty much fool proof, performance, and longevity, I would HIGHLY recommend checking out the graphite thermal pads.

EDIT2: I'm recommending it based off personal experience, not just reading/watching reviews.

EDIT3: Added video link

u/RADicalSievert · 2 pointsr/Amd

Linus made a video on the pad, also here's an amazon link
The high end pastes should only be slightly better, but the pad has enough advantages to outweigh a difference of 1-2 degrees

u/friendly_jerk · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

When you installed the Kraken, did you use the factory thermal paste? If so, I recommend removing it and using something like Arctic Silver.

u/chickenwafflez · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've always had good results with Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. Use the highest % of isopropyl alcohol you can get at your local drug store and a soft cloth/paper towel to remove the old paste. Don't use too much when applying the new paste.

u/Knight_of_autumn · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Wow, according to the claimed data the Grizzly is 4x more thermally conductive than the Diamond!

But then Arctic Silver claims numbers almost 30,000 times that. WHAT?!

u/beachandbyte · 2 pointsr/CR10

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan -

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) -

5v Lighting - Partial strip -

I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

u/drdoak66 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

u/rjheitman12 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I recommend replacing it with this fan

I replaced all my fans on my wanhao with theses way quieter and way more airflow.

u/BDazzle · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX)

u/SufficientEngineer · 2 pointsr/CR10

I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.

Hotend Fan 40x10mm

Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm

Mother Board Fan 50x10mm

Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.

u/vietquocnguyen · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX)

u/psu1989 · 2 pointsr/AnetA8
u/therewillbebrad · 2 pointsr/oculus

Fuck yes. You've inspired me.

I'm looking at these noctuas because they are silent and I'm thinking I'll have to go with a battery option. I don't think it will bother me that much. I'm wondering if getting a rechargable double a solution or just getting a vaporizer battery would work.

u/gstacks13 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

No problem, glad I could help!

The mount fits a 40x40x10mm fan. I'm using [this] ( Noctua fan with great results!

u/GroceryBagHead · 2 pointsr/sffpc

50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.

PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.

  • Buy
  • Remove PSU. 2 bolts: one at the back, one on the side from the side where 2.5" drives are.
  • Open PSU. There are a couple of pretty obvious screws. Box opens like a lid.
  • Unscrew and yank stock fan out. Connector had glue on it, so I had to scrape it off.
  • Install Noctua fan. Route its cable with the rest of cables that come out from PSU.
  • Plug Noctua into your motherboard. Use included low-noise adapter cable for best results.
u/mattheww · 2 pointsr/homelab

Really, any 40mm fan will do. But here's:

u/KnightontheSun · 2 pointsr/homelab

I used the NF-A4x10FLX fan.

Very quiet. The ServeTheHome thread linked above has two other types of fans used. They are fairly quiet too. I used some of those on the PSUs in the switch and then also disconnected one of the supplies as I don't need both running at once.

u/AddictedToComedy · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

> I haven't found a quiet, well-performing 40mm fan

I use this 40mm Noctua on my extruder's heat sink. It is so silent that I thought it was dead the first time I turned the printer back on. I had to visually check it spinning and feel the airflow before I could believe it.

Not sure if it meets your standards for well-performing, but it's been great for me.

u/TayG0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

In regards to sound, the mods I have done:

  • Printed and added feet dampeners, compatible with the Z-brace mod. These made a VERY noticable difference.
  • Replaced heatblock fan with a 40mm Noctua fan.
  • Replaced control box fan with 120mm Noctua fan, using a [printed adapter.]

    The mods I plan to do:

  • Either remove the PSU fan entirely, or replace it with a noctua fan. It is the main source of noise in the control box, something I realized AFTER replacing the rear fan 🙃. People say the 120mm fan mod provides enough airflow to cool the PSU with the original fan, and top psu case, removed.
  • Install stepper motor dampers on X and Y axis motors. Lots of reports of these making a big difference.
  • Reinforce the Ikea Lack table I have it sitting on, or replace the table completely. I've realized those tables contribute significantly to wobbling of the printer, as well as reverberation of any noises it puts out.
u/Tunderslimer · 2 pointsr/ender3

The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix WellFan PSU case mod and for fun cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan:

Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.

This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)

I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it:

The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.

I printed a zillion links from this thing: but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.

I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.

There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!

If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on:


PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.

u/vedicveko · 2 pointsr/originalxbox

I replaced my fan with the one below. It is very quiet, fits nicely, and cools as well as the old.

u/SaxyGeek · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This puppy is 3.55cm tall.

u/Cy-Gor · 2 pointsr/homelab

There are two cases that fit the bill with out going rack mount.

If you go with the UNAS case then you pretty much have to go with if you are using a socket motherboard.

The other option is getting something with all 5.25 drive bays and get 5 into 3 hotswap trays.

The raid max is about as cheap as i have found for 9 5.25 drive bays. This will give you 15 drive spots in a normal size tower. not counting what you can fit inside in non hotswap areas.

u/makar1 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Iwantmorelife · 2 pointsr/oculus

In mine I used a Noctua L9i - Mostly because I really wanted the extra space for cabling. It made the build quite a bit easier and has worked like a champ.

u/DulkTheDownie · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Noctua NH-L9i CPU cooler for $16.99 on Amazon by a new seller when its usually like $50. Is this fake?

u/duskmoonflow · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Just a heads up on the Noctua L9i, it's $39.95 currently on Amazon Prime so you may want to reconsider that price.

u/happyhumorist · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thats a good one.

And just to clarify from one of my earlier posts, which i'll edit. "Air coolers will do a better job cooling." I mean that air coolers will do better than that H55.

u/Rossatron13 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I did just that and ordered the 6600k. It doesn't come with stock cooling so I ordered this too - should be small enough to fit in my case.

u/OmegaZero55 · 2 pointsr/intel

Ah, well if you ever want to get one around the same size that's better something like this Noctua would probably work.

u/jtrias21 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This case isn't really built for tall, tower air coolers. For a vertical air cooler, I would say no higher than 80mm tall. With that said, I wouldn't recommend vertical air coolers because of the limited air space between the mobo and top of the case. Instead, I would recommend just going for liquid cooling or a horizontal low profile one like this Noctua NH-L9i

u/bycdiaz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I got a noctua CPU cooler that is cheaper than the one you selected. Maybe check it out and see if it fits your needs?

u/BelialApollyon · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Would [this](Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 be a good cooler to allow me to over lock my 6300?

u/darkbarf · 2 pointsr/techsupport

make sure your fans on cpu case and gpu are clean and spinning
also make sure your voltages aren't neccesarily to high.

i am biased but you should seriously consider a corsair water cooler such as

Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler

u/Badmadbrad · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Got the same CPU, it's like a bloody jet engine the stock cooler. I got a closed loop cooler, they are a bit more pricey but I like the aesthetic look of them and they're effective :)

(I got This one)

There might be cheaper ones out there

u/mrmarshall9o9 · 2 pointsr/Amd

How is the NZXT Kraken compared to the Corsair H100 v2? or even just the h60?

u/CaptainK3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would add water cooling since your budget would allow it, this one for example would only add 20$ to your budget

u/Ibuildempcs · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The H60 is cheaper on amazon:

Memoryexpress has a pricematch policy, use the amazon link to get the price down.

u/RedMageKnight · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A lot of mid-sized towers (and specially designed compact ATX towers) support both, so I guess a large portion of it is user preference. Take for example the following compact designed case designed to fit full ATX boards:

Amazon Link

I can't really attest to the quality of this case, but just as an example, as long as you find a tower with supporting ATX board sizes, it'll work (also good to consider the size of your CPU cooler, that's why they can't get too small - in the example of this case, your current fan wouldn't get the clearance it needs, but you could go with an alternative like...

Amazon Link)

Although that might be more than you want to spend, so just check the CPU cooler clearance required in the case you get, and it should be fine!

As for the CPU, if hyperthreading isn't a big deal to you, it's totally fine - that's one of the core differences between this one and say... the i7-6700k. If you want a higher clock speed out of the box too without having to OC, that's one thing to consider. But if those aren't that important to you, I'd say your choice is a sound one (many, many people will argue for the merit of hyperthreading these days though - and I can't say they're incorrect in their reasoning). However, if you're comparing dollar-to-dollar value, invest that extra savings into your GPU.

And finally, onto your GPU, pretty solid choice. Especially if you're not considering options like the 1070 or 1080. I lean more towards GTX cards, but that's entirely my biased choice, and so I won't influence you that way. There's a number of arguments that go both ways, so I'd say for sanity sake (you could literally dig for hours on the comparisons), that you'd be safe going either route (and if DX12 is the big factor for you, AMD seems to be doing better in some games, not as good in others, and around the same in even other games, so there seems to be a LOT of variability in regards to this factor - AMD seems to be excelling better on more recent games, but it's hard to say if that will remain the trend or if it will shift).

Again, hope this was helpful :)

u/a_shark · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That monitor is quite enough.

Here's my suggestion for your new build:

u/escman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Our mutual friend asked me to help you out. Sorry its kinda long but hope it helps.

General Thoughts about building your own computer:
IMO buying computer hardware is all about future proofing. If your not a hardcore enthusiast you want to buy what you are not going to need to upgrade for a long long time. For example my friend JUST upgraded his gtx8800+ to the new 780. His 8800 lasted him like 10 years. However, doing this usually means purchasing the top of the line hardware at the time which ofc is not always possible to do this with your budget. IMO If you are going to spend the money, spend a little more so that you are super happy and wont have any regrets. This is why if your budget doesnt fit a lot of people upgrade piece by piece. usually the video card is the last bit to be upgraded because they are the largest cost white being the quickest to go out of date. For example the same friend who recently upgraded to a 780 upgraded his case, cpu, motherboard, and ram 2 years ago to a decent i52500k & held off upgrading the video card till now. Also it is worth mentioning that the reason he opted for the 780 over anything else is because not only is it (arguably) the best video card it has improvements over the last generation chips. for example the 770 is just a beefier 680. The 780 runs the gk110 chip and also has larger bandwith etcetc (these things have been discussed to death on countless forums and i am just stating my opinion on it). I think that the 780 provides better future proofing and value retention.

Build Recommendations:
Now that my own general mindset has been given here are some recommendations to your build.

  1. Instead of the 670 get a 770 for only a little more $ (link below)

  2. You will need a larger watt power supply! i also recommend future proofing yourself with this. I personally purchased a 1200 watt corsair 4 years ago and it has lasted me through 2 builds and will last me quite a few more. Computer Cases follow this principle as well - they will last you numerous builds so get one that can scale with you. But i would recommend at least a 700w power supply. I believe the 670 requires around a 600w anyways. and you always want to have more than less.

  3. Please also do not get home premium get at least Pro. Also you can probably download a cracked version of ultimate for free and can save some money this way. (cough ask someone for a copy cough).

  4. A common thing first time builders forget is also a cpu heatsink. Do not use the stock one that comes with your cpu. i would recommend the Corsair h60 an all in one easy watercooling solution which i myself use. Easily allows you to overclock without all the hard work and money for conventional watercooling - and not a whole lot more expensive than the better aircooling solutions that i would recommend you get (2nd link below. its newer version than the one i have)

  5. Last and least important. I would recommend getting a larger SSD. It is a pain in the ass not having enough storage for typical daily use, but maybe thats just me because i set all my default download locations to the desktop and i often find myself running out of space on my 256gb ssd. You can double the capacity of the crucial m4 for only another $20. Remember that windows will be about 30gb. and your ssd will only really be 59 gb.

    Company Opinions
    I hate Newegg and have had nothing but crappy experiences with them. I only purchase from them if absolutely necessary and cross my fingers. I almost buy exclusively from Amazon now as i have amazon prime and amazons customer service is unparalleled. I also usually get bad cases of buyer remorse and amazons no quibbles 30 day return with no restocking fee is awesome. + free shipping with prime.

    As for choice of mouse and keyboard im a razer fan =P.

    Final Remark:
    This is probably going to have you go over budget. I would recommend doing a piece by piece upgrade as you get the funds instead of compromising. At the end of the day do what you personally will be happy with and that wont give you regrets. A good friend of mine thinks way different from me about choosing of hardware and that is why i want to give you background on my thinking. If you have any questions feel free =].
u/thesingularity47 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60

Why would anyone buy your cooler when they can get it on amazon for the exact same price?

u/luger33 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> I can also testify that the 212 EVO is an absolute pain in the ass to install and am convinced that is why it's so cheap. probably spent 1/2 the build time just making sure I got it seated properly. Works like a charm though.

Next time give one of the simple Corsair liquid coolers a shot. Got one a few weeks ago and it was my first time installing an after-market CPU cooler and it wasn't too bad at all.

u/MrDarwoo · 2 pointsr/flightsim

I highly recommend a closed loop CPU cooler like this one

It's a bit more expensive, but worth it.

u/laputa-cake · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It doesn't matter if you connect a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin header/slot and as for not having enough fan headers as long as you have an intake and an exhaust it won't matter too much or you can buy a fan splitter off most computer related stores.

u/cleod4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.

Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.

Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.




I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.

Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:

also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo

For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).

The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition

But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).

Get an 80+ platinum power supply

This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless

Logitech G703

u/Handelo · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

For cooling, if you're going with an air cooler, you can get the Noctua NH-D15 for about 90$, which is pretty much the best air cooler on the market. But with the Zen 2 chips really not running that hot, you can go a step down and get a decent cooler like CoolerMaster's Hyper 212 RGB at 40$ish, or if you still want closed-loop liquid cooling, you can probably get away with something like the Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120L RGB AIO at around 60$.


Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4:

CM Hyper 212 RGB:

CM MasterLiquid ML120L:


For the RAM, looking around it seems like a lot of the good kits are currently sold out, which makes sense with everyone building their systems with the new Zen 2 CPUs.The one good kit I've found is this one:

It's slightly more expensive at 172$, but 3600Mhz at CAS Latency 15 means it's definitely using Samsung B-Die, which is known to overclock very well with Ryzen, meaning you could easily tighten the timings on it considerably.You could also go with lower-clocked memory that is still Samsung B-Die (like and overclock it to 3600, but that requires much more fiddling with the BIOS and memory training, may not work for all memory sticks, and honestly the price difference isn't worth it in my opinion.

u/Laahari · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this

Or this

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

u/opant108 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here is what I built last month.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $126.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $142.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ITX TG (Black) Mini ITX Desktop Case | $86.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.20 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $94.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1209.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1159.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-17 09:12 EDT-0400 |

I originally had the Hyper 212 EVO just as you do on your list but found it to not be sufficient enough for the 8700K, especially if you overclock it (otherwise just get the 8700). You can get an NH-D15 or something similar from CRYORIG or be quiet! but they'll be bulky and make getting in to replace RAM or do other things more difficult, as you will most likely have to take off the cooler to get to your components. I found the H100i Pro from Corsair to be easy to install and it makes the inside look much more appealing than having a huge heatsink in the middle of everything. This was my first time using water cooling and it being an AIO, made everything hassle free and much easier to install than the Hyper 212 EVO, whose brackets make it a pain sometimes to install. I also like that using the iCUE software, you can have the H100i PRO change color according to its temperature, so it makes monitoring temps during games easy, as you can just look at the color of the AIO and you know if it is staying cool or hot. Lastly, and most importantly, the temps are much lower using it than the Hyper 212 EVO so if you have the extra money, you might want to go that route as it has many advantages.

u/DontTakeMyNoise · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is a D15.

It's a dual tower, dual fan air cooler. Best on the market.

u/BandidTwitch · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well if you're going to try and overclock it i'd get noctua NH-D15 it's one of the best performing air coolers out there.

u/Ezreol · 2 pointsr/KillYourConsole

Air cooled stuff then but keep in mind it would be good to blow it out every once in a while with an air can to clear that dust out, as that's a good thing to do even if you own a console (or other electronics, I blow my monitor vents every so often too for example) keeps things cool and whatnot. Noctua this is by a quick search really good but expensive otherwise the Evo 212 is good too and way cheaper.

u/seth7garcia · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Have this cooler

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans

It rated really well

u/gtgoku · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would suggest an air cooler instead of an AIO, something like a Noctua NH-D15 performs pretty well.

Also, if you want to avoid getting an aftermarket CPU cooler, you should consider the Ryzen line of processors (like the Ryzen 7 2700X) their stock coolers are pretty good, and can even handle the processors OC'ed

u/ligong2 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Bought this one 2 weeks ago

I was quite surprised by how big CPU cooler are now (was running on water)!

u/xxstasxx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Air coolers

Dual Fan AIO water cooler

I personally don't know much about the difference between the models of the h1xxi's and there has to be one , theres other brand like options like NZXT kraken , all of these are the ones that I know of that are capable of handling temps nicely and thus better for overclocking.

u/AlexP1992 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Hi, I’ve got the following on order for the same price range you are looking for.

On the 4K front, the Ti will do 60fps all games max setting near enough. I’ve gone for a 2K 144Hz IPS G-Sync monitor instead of pursuing 4K at the moment. There is a new 4K HDR Acer/ASUS 144Hz coming out soon. There is no SSD in this list.

You could upgrade the Ram which would take you to £2400 after SSD or m.2.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz
Corsair CS650M 80+ Gold
i7 8700k
NZXT S340 Elite Black Gaming Case
EVGA 1080Ti FTW3
Noctua NH-D15 CPU Cooler
Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7

u/cr3z · 2 pointsr/overclocking

you could save up for 20$ more and you could get noctua nh-d15

it's the best non-watercooling cpu cooler. i've oc'd my 6600k to 4.5 ghz and my cpu is at 54°C under load. It includes high quality thermal paste. it's easy to put into the motherboard.

u/andysaurus_rex · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I mean, with a good air cooler you can do as well or better than water coolers. Liquid coolers are generally for people who want better looks, require it for space, or just want to mess around with water cooling.

Something like the Noctua D15 is pretty much as good as you can get between air or liquid coolers.

u/puffykilled2pac · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a Dell S2716DGR. Check the /r/buildapcsales reddit as it goes on sale constantly. It is the best gaming monitor dollar-per-dollar one can buy for an Nvidia card. G-sync and 144hz is a 100% must if you're going to game on it. It's worth it.

As /u/mike718 said, go ahead and step up to the Noctua NH-D15. It's big and ugly, but you'll never have to buy another cooler again.

SSD is totally subjective to your needs. When I do builds for myself or others, I always go with the 500gb Samsung 850 Evo. High reliability and great speed. It's gotten much more affordable over the past year so it's always my go to.

I'm not sure what you're PC knowledge is, but getting Windows on to a new PC can be a little tricky if you're basically illiterate on the matter. Google and YouTube are your friends.

u/nlnl · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I posted this late in the Aug 20 thread, but here it is again.

I need a more silent setup and will be going with a Fractal Design Define R5 and a Noctua NH-D15 as per u/widowhanzo recommendation instead of an AIO cooler. I have five 3.5" drives and would need to keep the larger HDD bay which holds six 3.5" drives. I will not be needing the smaller HDD bay nor the ODD 5.25" bay.

My questions are as follows:

  1. Where would be the optimal location to mount the large HDD bay? Options: Front-Bottom, Front-Middle (Default), Front-Top (ODD bay removed)?
  2. How do I maintain static pressure given the location of the large HDD bay while keeping the integrity of the sound absorption

    Thank you!
u/dopef123 · 2 pointsr/intel

Eh, it's more like they gave you a cheap cooler. It's probably ok, but as you can see you're hitting the max temps in some situations (100C).

Depends on what you want to spend really. Noctua is considered the best for air coolers.

This is like the most popular noctua model I think:

And then there are all in one (AIO) water coolers for $100 (but noctua is on par with them and beats many of them). Here is the one I have for my 9900k:

There are definitely cheaper options that should be solid especially if you're not going to be pushing an overclock and all that. I'm not an expert on coolers but if you search 'cpu cooler 9700k' on /r/buildapc you can probably find a lot of good recommendations.

u/Boys4Jesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you have the space (check your case specs) and can go the extra $14, the Noctua NH-D15 is pretty much one of the best air coolers out there. It outperforms pretty much all air coolers, and also outperforms all liquid coolers of the same price.

You may not like the colours though.

u/Niitz · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Noctua would be a pretty good choice for air cooling.

Noctua NH D15

u/MizDiana · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I didn't shop around for deals, but get something like this for PSU (I just pulled this randomly from Amazon, may be cheaper elsewhere):

Your build doesn't use that much power & that PSU will go silent for low usage loads. I'd also probably get a quiet-oriented case, though some people love their windows. For cooler I'd probably save some money by going for a good air cooler I can re-use over and over. Like this classic:

u/akimbonautilus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you are concerned about noise and want to spend that much on a CPU cooler I would suggest either the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 which is my personal favorite and in my current rig though it seems to be hard even to get here in the states right now so I'm guessing availability in Canada will be even tougher. If you will not be doing lots of video editing or heavy processing things then I think the 6600k will be fine. If you just want a quiet PC and some light overclocking and want to bring the price down then I would also suggest you look at something like the Cryorig H5 cooler which is about a sub $50 cooler in the U.S. but PCPartPicker seems to not be able to find any Canadian retailers for it. It would be my midrange suggestion for a cooler. The H7 has been very popular lately as well and that goes for about $35 USD or for less than that there is always the fan favorite Cooler Master 212 EVO. I see nothing wrong with the motherboard. I own a similar Gigabyte motherboard myself and it is great. All you really miss out on with that one is no SLI support. As for monitors in the future I would personally go for 144Hz over 1440P but that is personal preference. IPS would also be preferable to TN for photoshop but a 144Hz IPS will be very pricy (like $500+ and that's looking at prices here in the U.S.) and since it sounds like gaming is your primary use and Photoshop is your secondary use I would go with a 144Hz TN over a 60Hz IPS.

u/periodic_insanity · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

if you are on a budget consider some arctic f12 pwm fans in a 5 pack, you will be able to fully fill out this case and they are very quiet when controlled. Those fans are excellent bang for buck with fluid bearings that should last a while as well. Pay as much for this pack as much as you pack for one noctua fan...

u/LeKKeR80 · 2 pointsr/HomeServer


  • /r/JDM_WAAAT

    The build above is more expensive than I would spend for a home media server, but everyone has a different budget. You might want to consider alternatives to some parts that are just as good, but cheaper. For example, do you really need those noctua 120mm fans? You can get a 5 pack of Arctic fans for $27 and do just as good a job cooling. There are other things you could do without or find cheaper alternatives for. Below are a couple of things that jumped out at me:

    I'm not sure about the 10 gb ethernet adapters. I get your desire to link your PC, but check to see what other bottlenecks you have and if the 10 gb adapters will do anything (e.g. hard drive / ssd read and write speeds).

    While we are talking storage, I always try to challenge peoples assumptions that they need RAID. RAID is not a backup solution. RAID is about up-time. RAID is not easy to expand. For media storage you might be better off using a pooling solution like mergerfs or stablebit drivepool.

    Is the ethernet cable going outside? If not, then you don't need the direct burial / waterproof cable.

    The netgear switch seems unnecessary if you only have two devices with 10gbe and you can connect them directly.

    The rosewill drive cages are nice, but if you don't need hot swap you can save ~$80 by switching to Norco 5 x 3.5" HDD Hard Drive Cage.
u/mattinm · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

I've got both those (3-pin) and the PWM variant in rigs and I absolutely love them. Arctic list their exact PWM to RPM curves at various voltages on the product page on their website. Very quiet up to 1000 RPM and then pick up more of a whooshing sound all the way to the full RPM.

One nice feature of the PWM fan is that you can daisy chain multiple ones together on the same header, no need for a splitter cable.

PWM 5-pack:

u/AdeptusMechanic · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here's 2-3 quick builds. One air cooler which you could pick a different cooler and different fans if you wanted.

You could also go much lower by just picking some artic cooling pwm fans a 5 back of 120 is only like 25 bucks and just throw a 212 or similar cpu cooler in there.

And one with an AIO that keeps the original fan and just adds one top fan.

I also have no idea how many PWM headers or AIO headers your MB has so you might need PWM splitters. The artics daisy chain last time i checked so you don't need them for that.

u/igeboy · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Arctic F12 PWM PST Value pack Standard Low Noise PWM Controlled Case Fan with PST Feature Cooling, 5 Pack

u/Bcron · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can get a 5 pack of Arctic F12 PWM PST case fans for 25 bucks and shave a lot of money off the build. I use them and love them. Fits the white theme too.

u/JDM_WAAAT · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's a great choice. I'd argue it's just about the best case you can get for under $45 - $50.

You might need to add some fans though, in that case I'd suggest a 5 pack of PWM 120mm Arctic fans from Amazon for $21 + tax.

u/AnxientDuck · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

These are pretty good value, but unfortunately not on sale. I can't speak for their volume though. Non-PWM version is even cheaper.

u/Netblock · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you get the Ryzen 2600X, you wouldn't need a cooler, as it comes with a decent one (if you plan to overclock it would do you good to get an aftermarket). That intel 9600K doesn't come with one, so something like the Hyper 212 Evo would be a safe bet.


If you want to get fans, I have and recommend the Arctic F12. They're really good mid-grade fans. Quiet too.

u/scy1192 · 2 pointsr/Amd

are fans that expensive really worth it? I got 5 of these for $25 and they're strapped to my 212 Evo heatsink

u/poblopuablo · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is a 5 pack of pretty cheap fans they're actually only $25 so that's five bucks a fan you can't get much better than that for decent pwm fans low-noise and decent static pressure which would be good for the front of the case because it's pretty restrictive. :)

u/VVrest · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thermalright's TY-127s fill every checkmark on your list. Great fan by a great manufacturer. I think they are only available in Europe though.

Phantek also has some good black/white ones as well. Also could be worth checking out gentle typhoons though I think those are gray rather than white.

If you're want something a bit cheaper you can actually get a five pack black/white arctic f12s which are pwm. Amazing value here.. They are legit good fans.

u/jonbaa · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I haven't looked at the website you linked, but just right off the top :

  1. You can definitely go for a cheaper CPU cooler. For example, the Cryorig H7 is plenty good for a lower price (assuming you can get that where you're located). The Hyper 212 EVO is also a very popular budget option.

  2. You don't need 3200 RAM. RAM speed will typically be one of the last things to affect your computer's performance (in terms of bottlenecking). The usual advice is to go with the cheapest set of RAM that matches what you want in number of RAM sticks, amount of memory, and aesthetics.

  3. You'll hear this often, but you should definitely look into getting an SSD for your OS and main programs/games. It's the #1 contributor to making your computer FEEL fast. Load times in games will be much, much quicker, you'll boot your PC up in seconds, and moving around files/copying/installing/etc will be much faster as well.

    Basically, I'm recommending you save money by getting a cheaper CPU cooler and cheaper RAM, then putting that towards getting a solid SSD. I'd recommend ~250GB minimum, but 500GB SSDs on sale often offer more storage per dollar and would therefore be a better value. Plus you'll be sad if you run out of space on your SSD for your most often used programs/games.

    Good luck!
u/BlinkPlays · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/hyperclock255 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cant see why it cant run crossfire. So it should be ok. But if it were me, I would probably went for a single card configuration since not many games has SLI/crossfire

Off topic,

For extra $5, u can get Cryorig H7 for a much better cooling

u/TheFirstRecordKeeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Can't tell you why it says preorder I bought mine from amazon and it's been out since last year but yea amazon has it for 35 which is what I paid for it. To give some context on its efficiency my cpu at idle sits at 25-30c which is amazing. When under a heavy load like watching a stream and playing a triple A title game at max settings I haven't seen it get past 60c which is super amazing.

If you do have the money now I would pull the trigger on this build its very solid. If you only have enough to get a few parts now and the rest in a couple weeks immediately get the 1070 because that will be the first thing out of all those parts to go out of stock. I've been watching the 1070/1080 stock get demolished as soon as a store has some.

u/GaiaNyx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

5820k is still a good CPU no doubt, but it's a couple generation old now. For around the same money, you can get 8700k if you can find one. Even if that's not available, you can also go 7800x, as that's the most recent in the similar lineup. 8700k is the best choise right now though.

Maybe you have the motherboard and the CPU, in which case, just stick with those two and you'll be fine.

And don't aim for 30+ fps at any resolution. I highly suggest aiming for at least 80~100+ fps with that kind of budget. GTX 1080 will do its job just fine.

GPUs have their own VRAM, and GTX 1080 has 8GB on its own. Your 16 GB ram choise is fine, and that's independent of what GPU you go for.

And lastly, get a differernt CPU cooler. I see that Hyper 212 EVO recommended to everyone and their brothers and sisters, but there are better coolers for the same money. I actually hate people going for that one with a budget closing in on $2000. Get a better one. Your budget is not a 600~800 range which would make me understand for that cooler.

Get something at least like this thing for i7 CPUs that can overclock. Better thermals, better acoustics, and better looks. Or you can also choose this if you still want to cheap out on cooling.

u/Neovitami · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Overclocking might postpone the need for an upgrade by a couple of years if not more depending on your demands.

Get this cooler:

Worst case scenario if overclocking your CPU isnt enough, you will also be able to use this cooler for every other new CPU you might buy.

u/CrazyCanadianXXIV · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Forget a new fan; you should get an entirely new cooler. The Cryorig H7 gets my vote if you're on a budget. Same price range as the 212, but about twice the surface area for heat dissipation.

u/rejectaderp · 2 pointsr/Destiny

Some other things to note:
For builds $1050 and up, you recommend an EVGA NEX 650W PSU. While this PSU won't fry your build or burn down your house, it has poor ripple control as shown in this [review] ( I would recommend a gen 2 EVGA PSU (G2/GS/etc), or potentially a different brand PSU (Corsair RMx series or Seasonic's G series).

In option 1 of your $1650 build, you recommend a [Cryorig C7 Cooler.] ( This is a low profile cooler meant for small form factor builds, so I'm assuming you mixed it up with the Cryorig H7 cooler, designed for more standard towers. While the H7 gets the job done, you might as well invest in a beefier air cooler or switch over to liquid cooling at that price point.

u/felixenfeu · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The prices on PCpartpicker are kinda fucked up for me, but the H7 can be found around 35 USD (Newegg, Amazon, etc.). It's similar performance as Noctua, for a fraction of the price (More than half the price).

u/polypeptide147 · 2 pointsr/Hacking_Tutorials

I second the MacBook recommendation. I am on one now, and it is perfect. I think the best part is that it already comes with Unix installed so you can play around with stuff that you want right from the start. If you build a pc and put linux on it, then you're good anyways. Windows is a no-go.

If you want to build a computer, (its a good idea, you might learn quite a bit) I'll help you out.
Since you seem to not know much about computers, I must fill you in. This is not a good time to do it. Ram shortages combined with super high GPU prices due to mining, and you have yourself a costly computer.

That being said, here you go. A couple things about it:

  1. That processor is overkill for probably anything you would be doing. You could be saving a good bit of money by using another one. But since that is what you requested, I'll throw it in. The plus is that you probably won't have to upgrade it for a while.

  2. You don't 'need' a gpu, but the 1050ti is pretty inexpensive, and if you decide to play some games it will be able to handle them.

  3. 16GB of ram is plenty. 32GB is overkill. I only have 16 and I can have multiple VMs at a time, and its fine. And if you want to upgrade later, you can do it pretty easily.

  4. I gave you a M.2 SSD. They are much faster than a regular sata and WAY faster than a hdd. Do you need it? Not at all. But especially for a beginner, it will be easier not having to route more cables. I have multiple sata ssds and multiple hdds, and cable management is a pain. The total comes to like $1280 but if that is too much get a 256GB ssd instead of a 500GB one. You can always add more storage later. It is very common for people to have a M.2 for booting and then all of their applications on a sata ssd or a hdd.

  5. I gave you a case with places to put hdds if you want them.

  6. The power supply (psu) should be plenty. I gave you 650w but you really only need 400w. I have that same psu and I have two GPUs and I'm fine. I know you'll want to get some crazy 1000w one but you don't need it.

  7. The motherboard isn't the lowest level mobo, but it isn't the best. It should allow you to overclock pretty well if you care to (you won't now, but you will, and it will be a pain if you have to upgrade your mobo in a few months). It has onboard wifi, so you don't have to worry about that.

  8. You don't need water cooling. At all. That processor is hot, but you won't be doing enough for it to be stressed anyways. That being said, I would go for a cryorig h7 instead. Easy to install, comes with thermal paste, and works very well for the price. I'm not at my computer now, but I have that cryorig cooler and I have my processor overclocked and it has no problem.

  9. Take this all with a grain of salt. Do your own research. You should be doing plenty of research about anything you hear on the internet always, especially if it is regarding you spending money.

    Regardless of if you get a laptop or you build your own, enjoy your computer. Seems daunting to build one at first, but it is really easy. Like Legos. I was terrified at first, but I've done it so many times now that I don't even have to think about it.
u/Magnetic_Tree · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's 24 new ones available on amazon.

u/Hallorannn · 1 pointr/intel

I would wait a bit longer and save up for the i7. More and more games are going to utilise the multi-cores, hopefully, and they'll definitely come in handy when streaming as well (OBS). Also, a good air cooler is very affordable, like the popular Hyper 212 EVO, to something that performs very well even under load, the Silverstone A R07, but can range to higher prices, like the Phanteks or Noctua. My advice would be to wait a while, then grab the i7 6700k along with the Silverstone AR07 (Best performance per dollar under $50, losing out only to the $50-60 Mugen Scythe 4) T

u/ErasedDick · 1 pointr/Amd

Noctua NH-D15
The only reason i got it is because my friend gave it to me for $10 as he took the noctua fans off of it. No way i would pay this much for an air cooler..

u/CherryBlossomStorm · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Spaidicus · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm planning on buying this MSI MPG Z390M mATX motherboard and I'm looking for a cooling solution for an i7-9700k. I wish I could liquid cool, but my case has awkwardly small 100mm fans so that is ruled out. I'm considering the Noctua NH-D15, and I'm wondering if that cooler could fit in that motherboard without blocking the RAM and avoiding the heatsinks. If not, what cooler do you recommend?

Thanks in advance!

u/He_Ma_Vi · 1 pointr/overclocking

It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.

I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.

Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.

These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.

On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.

The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).

Scythe Fuma:

Noctua NH-D15:

BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4:

These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.

u/Sick0rSan3 · 1 pointr/PCBuilds

Personally I would go with Noctua's NH-D15 cooler, but solid build nonetheless.

u/Twinewhale · 1 pointr/buildapc

Following the "modesty is best policy" principles I would recommend a few things here:

  • Go with the really good main monitor, looks like you got the 27 inch 1440p 144hz Acer. (This is freesync btw. I recommend the Dell S2716DGR for the G-Sync - AMD vs Nvidia) and pick up a 1080p side monitor.

  • Ditch the liquid cooling. It's an unnecessary hassle for anyone other than PC enthusiasts in the OC communities. A Cooler Master or the Noctua (if you have enough room in your case.) Both will provide ample cooling and your CPU will last just as long as with a liquid cooling kit.

  • In combo with the above, my favorite case so far (after 4 PC builds for myself and family) is the Corsair Carbide 540 High Airflow ATX Cube. Lots of room for cables in the back and gives your components a nice display with LOTS of airflow.

  • I would, however, recommend going to an M.2 SSD, which is significantly faster than a standard SSD. Not much of a price jump there.

    I see others have spoken about overclocking your CPU and such already. My opinion is to skip overclocking. For the standard gamer wanting a quality experience that is getting a top of the line CPU, there's zero need to OC. I went with the i7-7700 non 'k' version and have been plenty happy. It saved some money too.

    Keep in mind your peripherals. Usually those are overlooked when upgrading your PC, but maybe it's time for a new mouse/keyboard, new controller, headphones, etc.

    Also if you're dad is giving you a budget, is he giving you the money to spend, or buying the stuff for you? If you don't get the remaining money from $3k, maybe you should include those things now instead of later.
u/Korprat_Amerika · 1 pointr/buildapc

I can only guess cpu throttling as others have said. I had a 2070 non super for awhile and it would do 50 fps ultra 4k, not 1080p. Even on an old intel 2600k with a decent cooler on it. That's probably your solution.

budget option I can vouch for this 20 dollar cooler. Used it for an i5 build the other day. works well enough, but the mount could be better, bend it down a bit (the AMD rocker arm thing) and you'll have a much easier time installing. I like it though, comes in blue, red, and rgb.

Extreme option the NHd15 beats most liquid coolers, I use it with liquid metal thermal solution on an i7 and never go over 35C idle 55C under load.

I'm fan of air cooling if you couldnt tell. good luck to you.

u/MushyDG · 1 pointr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

Hopefully anyway, got to wait for my Isopropyl 99.9% and my microfibre cloths to come so I can wipe off the old paste before reapplying.

Loving the Noctua CPU cooler by the way, been watching a lot of reviews. Looks like I'm going to have to get a new board though for it to fit. Got the new Asus Board, the Noctua NH-D15 and a PCIe adapter for my M.2 SSD all in the basket waiting for payday!

u/ScubaSteve7886 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I nice air cooler (noctua) would be good, provided your case and memory allow for it.

This cooler is a decent one and has a good price compared to other 240 AIOs.

Both of these would have similar performance.

u/pixel_nut · 1 pointr/buildapc

Alternatively, you can get a big honkin' D15 by Noctua if you think you'd see any benefit for the money.

Here is some discussion on the H7 vs D15

u/mail4youtoo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I personally use the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

The Noctua NH-D15 is also a very good choice.

Here is a spreadsheet

u/caitengsta · 1 pointr/Corsair

So only slightly cheaper, but everything else still stands. They do offer a smaller size too, though I think the one I linked should fit most standard to large cases. I'd double check just to be sure. And you don't have to worry about CPU compatibility. Basically all CPU coolers come with mounting for Intel and AMD so you're good.

u/ssolutionshn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would recommend another PSU, this is a good option


Also I suggest to include a second HDD 2TB and maybe you can get a 1070 ti instead.

If you'll be overclocking consider

u/slinkayy · 1 pointr/buildapc

Having framerate issues in tf2, which is expected when the game is as old and unoptimized as it is. Right now I'm running 1440p/144hz, but will probably swap it out for a 1080p/165hz in the future.

As for current temps, I idle at ~35°C, running MSI Kombustor's CPU burner on all 8 threads has me jumping up to 85°C almost instantly, reaching just under 90°C after about a minute. I'll chalk up the higher temps earlier to warmer ambient temperature, but I may take a look at the thermal paste if this sounds wrong.

Currently I don't see any potential for overclocking with my current cooler, hence the desire for a better one.

Looking at the Noctua NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4 right now, if that opens up any suggestions.

u/treehumper83 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Clearly I had a morning brain fart. Sorry about that.


I use one. AIOs leaking is the chance you take. Sometimes the AIO manufacturer will reimburse you for damaged components, but often they will not. If you're that worried about it, get an air cooler.


When I purchased my GPU, CPU and motherboard from MicroCenter, I got their extended warranty which covers damage from such things. That's offered solely by MicroCenter and worth every penny, just in case the improbable happens.

Edit: More to the point, a good and mostly quiet air cooler would be the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4

u/officer21 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

They are conservative with their estimates. I have a Corsair 200R, the allowable height is 160mm. I installed a glass window on the inside with mounting tape, so the clearance should be 160mm - thickness of the glass - thickness of the mounting tape. I got a 165mm air cooler, it fits.

u/PulsE_Capacityy · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would go with an air cooler such as this.

u/TransientBananaBread · 1 pointr/buildapc

It's probably for the best as a 212 would be a pretty bad cooler for a 6 core processor. For a processor that beastly, I would recommend a higher end air cooler like the Dark Rock Pro 3 or Noctua DH-15 or looking into an AIO cooler like the H100i.

u/VacuumShark · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

A good air cooler can compete with AIO water coolers, I hear good things about the Noctua NH-D15 but it's a little pricey. I personally use a coolermaster evo 212 with 2 aftermarket high static pressure fans in push/pull and get good results.

If you're looking to upgrade your GPU I'd recommend a RX480 8GB if you're at 1080p or a 1070 if you want to go to 1440p.

DDR3 and DDR4 ram aren't interchangable, it requires a CPU/Chipset and motherboard that supports it (1151, X99, H110, H170 ect.)

u/Inter9221 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey SUK,
If its a hardware issue, it would most likely be a bad cooler (The pump or fans could be dying.) This would explain your CPU temperatures. You could also try reapplying your thermal paste since it has been two years, this could remedy the issue for a while if your cooler is dying.

It could also be a faulty power supply, but this would not explain the CPU temperatures, but it would explain the blackouts. I'd be very surprised if the graphics card was the issue, since the cooling is independent, and GTX 1070s take up about the same power as a 970.

I'd suggest looking into spending for something like a Corsair H100i v2 (on sale now actually!), its a good cooler at a good cost. Or go back to air cooling (while not as efficient, it is less accident prone) with a Noctua NH-D15.

Pictures wouldn't hurt, but I'm betting its a faulty cooler. By the way, huge fan of your videos!

Edit: What is your fan configuration? How many fans do you have in the front, top, and exhaust? Where is your cooler located in the computer?

u/demonmit1 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

All power supplies have a specific efficiency curve, and the average curve is most efficient between 40% and 70% load on the PSU. So, to get that 80+ Gold Certified efficiency, you don't want to be running your PSU under max load all the time.

Going with a 650w is just fine, and getting the 750w is just fine too, it doesnt hurt anything to have a higher wattage PSU, other than it costs a bit more.

Having the higher wattage PSU also gives you the freedom to add in an extra GTX 1070 in the future if you decide you need more rendering power if you are using a GPU rendering engine.

The i7 7700k has slightly better single core performance over the 6700k, and can be overclocked higher to get better performance. The rated TDP of the 7700k is 91w, and the cooler I recommended is capable of dissipating 140w. If you are concerned about temperatures, especially with overclocking, you can choose to get a bigger, beefier cooler, like the Nocuta NH-D15 but it will cost more.

u/krunchybacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).

u/bluesnd63 · 1 pointr/buildapc


2. You are spending way too much on a case. Get this one it's phenomenal and half the price. I just bought it myself and have zero complaints.

3. Get the SC2 GPU it's a little cheaper on Amazon and actually a slightly better card.

4. Get a 650W PSU you are way overpaying for that 850W and you don't even need it.

5. With the money you are saving from above get this cooler.

6. You don't have any storage on here and you'll need that. Get this.

7. Slightly better ram for less money unless you HAVE to have RBG but with that Noctua you probably aren't even gonna see much of the RAM anyways.

u/H1Tzz · 1 pointr/buildapc

No idea how Thermalright - Le Grand Macho RT 73.6 CFM performs but i suggest you to get

Its considered the best cpu air cooler by many, if you dont mind the color of fans.

u/Calvus · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P and looking to get 8gb of memory. Here's what I'm looking at so far:

u/KingHenryVofEngland · 1 pointr/buildapc

Someone recommended it to me. Also it's $20 cheaper than this one. Is the NH-D15 that much better?

EDIT: Oh and also the NH-D15 is not compatible with my build according to PCPartpicker.

u/mrturdferguson · 1 pointr/overclocking

Should I swap to this?

u/Eternal_Ohm · 1 pointr/buildapc

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this


Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

u/Grasshopper_Weeb · 1 pointr/buildapc

CPU wise, your should try getting something more powerful so you don't bottleneck your video card. I would personally recommend the Ryzen 3600x, which is significantly better than the 9600k for more workstation oriented actions. If you want to try out some overclocking, you should get this CPU cooler as well.

u/AK-Brian · 1 pointr/Amd

One additional note on the GPU choice - as PlaysForDays noted, the "standard" RTX 2080 performs only a bit higher (~10%) than the $499 RTX 2070 Super (Gigabyte 2070 Super as an example), but retails for several hundred dollars more. Its successor, the RTX 2080 Super can be found for $699-$730 (eg, this card, or this card), making it a smarter choice than your listed $689 Gigabyte RTX 2080.

Performance differences will vary from game to game, but essentially there's no reason to choose an RTX 2080 at $690 when for ten or twenty dollars more you can pick up an RTX 2080 Super. Conversely, dropping to a 2070 Super can save you two hundred bucks for giving up about ten percent in performance. For a build this powerful, I'd simply step up to the 2080 Super and call it a day. :)

The other observations about the motherboard are also valid. The Gaming X isn't a bad board, but it's not compelling when alternatives such as the Aorus Elite exist for a very minor bump in price.

For a CPU cooler, if you plan on using a traditional air cooler, go with either a Noctua NH-D15 or the Dark Rock Pro 4 from the irritatingly yet aptly named "be quiet!" They're both top tier, very high quality coolers with low noise fans which include mounting hardware for AM4 boards. They'll handle the 3900X's heat with no issues and you'll have some headroom for overclocking if you desire.

u/trannick · 1 pointr/buildapc

What's the difference between the NH-D15 and the NH-D15S? I can't seem to find this NH-D15 on PCPartsPicker.

u/ElectronicsWizardry · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is basically the best air cooler, you wont be disappointed.

u/DrThror · 1 pointr/buildapc

There are quite a few options then. This is considered one of the best AIO (all in one options) out there, but is about 20$ over your budget.

Meanwhile, Noctua makes arguably some of the best air coolers, if you can handle the ugly color. What CPU are you using currently? And is it overclocked/do you plan to overclock it?
edit: added the noctua cooler link

u/omv421 · 1 pointr/PC_building

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans Works with AM3+ sockets. I have this, make sure you have a big enough case, cuz these are huge.

u/RetnuhTnelisV · 1 pointr/buildapc

I am using a Kraken x62 for my 7700k. I like AIOs and this one looks great. For air tho which is not bad, Dark Rock Pro 3 is really good as is the Noctua Air Cooler

u/littleangotti · 1 pointr/bapccanada

Congrats on your first build! Of course it depends what you are wanting to do. If you are strictly gaming you'll have a better system if you go for intel at this price point.

Personally I would go for an nvme ssd at that price point (especially if I can get it at $150):

I'd prefer the nh-d15 for cooling, though you might have to switch to lower profile ram like the corsair lpx to accommodate the second fan:

The x570 motherboard is overkill in my opinion unless you are interested in pcie x4 down the road. This board is $150 right now:

I might also consider replacing the case fans with noctua fans although this would push your budget up.

Wish I had gone with something more in line with what you have here with my last build rather than the 9900k / 2070 super I'm running.

u/JimBobDuffMan · 1 pointr/buildapc

My setup is a 4690k with gtx 970 and 16gb of ram.

Previously this was fine for the types of games I was playing (mostly War Thunder) but now I have bought CoD and Jedi Fallen Order I have noticed my CPU running consistently at 100% and giving me fps drops in both games.

I plan to upgrade my cpu (and therefore probably motherboard and RAM eventually) when I can afford to but for now I was planning on running an OC on my cpu to get a little more out of it.

My question is what CPU cooler would you recommend that would work with my current 4690k but also be good enough for my new cpu when I eventually upgrade.

I would like to spend less than £50 ($65). I dont care too much about noise or RGB but I would like it to not be obnoxiously loud or ugly.

Would a beginner like me notice the difference between something like this vs this?

My case is a zalman z11

TL;DR: Want to OC my 4690k but need a better cooler. Needs to also work for my eventual upgraded CPU

u/Vouqez · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Okay first buy a cooler, your CPU is probably close to death if are overclocking with a stock cooler.
I recommend a

If you want the top it will set you back at least £1000 for it.

Core i7-6950X and the Core i7-6900K are the top two of the LGA2011-3 CPU's

u/stonedboss · 1 pointr/buildapc

Air: Noctua NH-D15

Water (aio): Corsair H100i

u/markyymark13 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Everyone raves about liquid cooling because it looks cool but fact of the matter is that all in one liquid coolers have no performance gains over a good air cooler but they still cost more and have the chance to fail/break


This is one of the best air coolers on the market:

u/TeamWorkOPleaseNerf · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you are willing to spend so much in a cooler may as well get the best one and never upgrade til it breaks

While the 212 evo is good enough and 4,1 is conservative this noctua seems mighty fine for 10 freedom bucks more

u/Pyreson · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh man didn't realise they were a seperate thing, thought they came with the CPU in the big box. This one got recommended a bunch of places, guess I'd probably just go with it:
Noctua NH-U9S

u/Arctician1 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Looks like a Noctua NH-D15


u/THS89 · 1 pointr/buildapc

K I ordered the NH-D15.

Along with this to replace my AX1200 fan.

Amazon gave me free same-day shipping due to return of previous pwm fan which never worked lol (my stupid AX1200 won't spin the pwm noctua)

Hope it fits....

u/Zaga932 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Damn. That really really sucks. Thank you for the heads up. Also, that link is about the Cryorig H7. I first thought it was about the Corsair H75. Did you write a typo or link the wrong article?

Edit: Reviewer on Amazon says the NH-D15 fits perfectly in the SPEC-02 - (a search for "SPEC-02" brings you to it) - could it be that the flat clearance is 157mm? The side panels of the SPEC-02 bulge out quite a bit (probably like an extra inch on each side). My 212 Evo (158.5 mm) also fits just fine.

u/herrduarte · 1 pointr/MoneroMining
u/primalchrome · 1 pointr/Birmingham

Currently : PlayerUnknown's Battlegrounds, EverQuest progression server, Fallout 4, World of Warships.

From about 1997 to 2007, I hosted LAN parties at my old house and apartment. Great fun to have 10-20 folks show up and spend 20 hours just gaming.

Last rig I built was for a cousin's christmas present.... As soon as some personal things shake out, I'm going to build a new rig for myself and another cousin. I'm not a fan of watercooling quite yet, some of the aircooling heatsinks are about the same efficiency.

u/problematicks · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would it be alright if I purchased Noctua NH-D15 6:

They have an am4 bracket on amazon prime so I can get them both thursday

u/Mr_Pryor · 1 pointr/buildapc

I went with the Noctua NH-D15.

u/Saales0706 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hello there! I have the same case, and while I loved the case, the stock fans were kinda meh. so I upgraded to these. They still work fine, and now I have an actual fan curve set up so it doesn't sound like a jet engine! The 5 pack was also a nice perk.

  1. The case fans will still run at a constant speed if you plug them into your mobo fan ports. That is because they are 3 pin instead of 4. What you want to look for if you want adjustable fan speeds is anything labeled "PWM."

    2a) I don't think it really matters.

    2b) the connectors should have a little indented area on the side that the raised plastic piece on the MoBo (above the pins) fits into.

    Edit: Formatting
u/dramahitler · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can get 5 pack of PWM Arctic fans for ~20$

they're pretty quiet and move a decent amount of air. Or buy a single for $7 if that's all you need.

You could also try a resistor cable such as this:

which will throttle the voltage your fan receives and thus forces it to run at a lower speed, much like PWM does though only by a static amount (around 30% usually).

u/Oh_hey_a_TAA · 1 pointr/gpumining
u/BlackenedPies · 1 pointr/buildapc

It depends on your case and motherboard. Here's a good deal on a 5 pack of PWM fans. Each fan has a splitter and can daisy-chain up to 4 fans together (depending on your motherboard)

u/cokosnuts · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well I have low noise fans all over the place. Five "ARCTIC F12" To be precise.

  • Dual 120s at the front
  • Dual 120s at the top
  • Single 120 at the back
  • Noctua NH-D15 for the CPU

    The case fans are running @ 800RPM and the CPU Cooler is on auto. I can barely hear the wind flow when I'm reading or writing. And when I'm gaming there's zero noise from the case, in part because of the game sounds.
    Also I'm curently playing a lot of Overwatch and Borderlands 2. And the GPU fans aren't always on. It required a lot of tweaking this and that tho.
u/Nimrodor · 1 pointr/buildapc

A liquid cooler pumps liquid in a loop from your CPU to a radiator, effectively moving heat as quickly as possible to a loud fan trying to blow air as hard as it can through a series of thin pipes.

And if air is moving, then stuff is getting cooled. CPU coolers don't make things colder; they just try to move heat from one place to another. Similarly, a refrigerator doesn't make your food colder; it just moves the heat off your food and into your house instead.

If you want a quieter build, add lots of quiet fans. Multiple fans aren't much louder than a single fan, so just find a cheap quiet fan and use lots of them. For example, get a pack of these, replace all your fans, and run them at 50% all the time.

u/goochadamg · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Just wanted to mention that the CFMAPALLN code is not valid for that seller; the code would have brought that price down to ~$24.

Fortunately, it's available on amazon for that price with prime shipping:

u/Fierce_Lito · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

The P180 is a great silent case, I have a P182 Advanced, both cases have integrated space to add eggcrate sound dampening.

Cheap 5 pack of quality PWM fans:

add in a splitter or two as you need, e.g.:

so with the M.2 SSDs, there are now 5 different types of drives, you want to get a drive that

u/OfficalEnvy · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Arctic F12 PWM PST Value pack Standard Low Noise PWM Controlled Case Fan with PST Feature Cooling, 5 Pack

5 new artic f12s 25$

u/SaludosCordiales · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

If you won't be using filters or radiators or you have restricted airflow, try the Artic F12. I've heard it is a decent to great fan. Amazon has a 5 pack for 27USD.

Noctua thankfully has competition nowadays.

u/notaneggspert · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use Arctic F12 PWM PST fans in my server itx build so that I don't need a separate fan hub.

u/coldwar_7 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I agree that at least another fan would be worth it, but I might suggest these fans <ARCTIC F12 PWM PST - 120 mm PWM PST Case Fan - Five Pack | Cooler with Standard Case | PST-Port (PWM Sharing Technology) | Regulates RPM in sync>. I haven't used them myself, but they are a great price and have good reviews both on Amazon and independent reviewers.

u/rahtid_ · 1 pointr/buildapc

You have a few options.

You could use a fan controller, which plugs into the case fan header, and allows you to plug multiple fans into the controller. From there you can change speeds.

What I did, was used these case fans instead

They are quite decent fans, but what is unique about them is that you can basically daisy chain them all together and then plug one of them into the fan header. This keeps the functionality of the different fan speeds, and applies the same speed to all of them. So if your computer is getting cooler, all of them will slow down together, and if its getting hotter, they will all speed up together.

The only downside to this is if you want the different fans to have a different fan curve - from what I understand you cannot do that.

u/DDiablOG · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here is my dilemma they come in value pack if you buy them individually they are more then 2 times price for fan

u/AshamedGanache · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Arctic 5 pack fans are a great choice if you're on a budget.

u/AquaDigger · 1 pointr/JDM_WAAAT

Thanks for the detailed reply! Full disclosure, I bent a capacitor while I was pulling the motherboard out to clean it out properly (having done this 6-8 times previously with no issues). Replaced it, took it to a computer tech to see if they could fix it, no joy. Have had no issues with it before then.


Crazy how a $20 CPU can outperform a ~$350 10 year old CPU.


Being in Australia some of the parts are different/higher costs, some questions.

CPU: Will the X650 suffice? $17, passmark 7388? Cheapest x5670 I can find is $36.

Drive bay converter: Is this the same/similar (they only have 1 available atm)? If I can't get that one, is something like this ok?

Fans: Should I be looking at the F series in the ARCTIC fans? Work out at about $11/fan. Is there a good balance in number of fans for cooling/quietness?

CPU Cooler: CM 212 Hyper Black edition is currently $136 on Amazon AU. Is this just the RGB version (it's available more readily in Aus) and is this the older version ($16 cheaper). Is there something I should specifically be looking for to get a quiet cooler or is it just down to reviews/experience?

GPU: So I just need this for a display out, not needed to help with transcoding? Something like this 8400GS would work, 256mb? I assume used is not an issue.


I might have backed myself into a corner with Xpenology as my drives are currently setup in using SHR configuration, so the only way to access them (as far as I know) is through another Synology device, or using Xpenology?


Thanks again! You've been more than helpful! Sorry for all the extra questions.

u/aicessi · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe Arctic F12 PWM PST Value pack Standard Low Noise PWM Controlled Case Fan with PST Feature Cooling.

u/tuan2195 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap
This is not the one I bought but it's the same model with PWM. Mine was 6 bucks cheaper but didn't have PWM and it's out of stock right now.

u/gamerkadja · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | €214.94 @ PC Componentes
Thermal Compound | ARCTIC MX-4 2019 Edition 4 g Thermal Paste | €6.44 @ Amazon Espana
Motherboard | MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard | €145.15 @ PC Componentes
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Elite 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | €101.87 @ Amazon Espana
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | €119.99 @ Amazon Espana
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card | €379.89 @ Amazon Espana
Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | €74.90 @ Amazon Espana
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1043.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-07 18:35 CET+0100 |

cpu: ryzen 5 3600, best price for performance gaming cpu

cpu cooler: stock cooler is just fine here (no reason to upgrade due to case used so noise shouldn't be a problem)

thermal paste: recommended for all ryzen 3000 series builds, requires removing the stock thermal paste from the cooler

memory: ddr4 3600mhz 16Gb 16 latency, about as good as it gets, anything better is a lot more expensive, ryzen 3000 series benefits from fast memory in gaming

storage: a better than mid-range m.2 1tb ssd, doesn't slow down when over 1/2 full

motherboard: I went with msi b450 gaming pro carbon a premium b450 full atx motherboard that has 8.1 audio, wifi, bluetooth, usb-c, and gigabit lan included. Is fully upgradeable to 3950x. Note: You might have to flash the bios to be ryzen 3000 compatible. This motherboard can be flashed without a cpu. By and large though because of the massive sell rate of AMD products in the last few months this is most likely not necessary (they are being sold with the bios updated now). This is a premium part choice, lower budget considerations are available, but with less features. This is a great motherboard.

videocard: the Amd rx 5700, a 1440p capable video card, can do 4k upscale with a 4k monitor in gaming, can be overclocked to 5700xt performance, here is a video series with the 5700. Although Red Dead Redemption 2 is an extremely demanding game (and poorly optimized currently) this gpu and cpu combo should produce 60+ frames at near ultra settings in 1440p. 1080p is probably your current monitor configuration though, and it should max ultra playable at that resolution.

power supply: a gold rated (very power efficient), 550 watts(plenty of watts), semi-modular (some cables detach for easy building), five year warranty

fine to reuse the case: if you want some nice quality additional case fans, here is a suggestion for a 5 pack.

If you have a full version of windows you can use it on the new motherboard. If not I suggest a new oem windows 10 pro disk with code for about 30 euros. This will be a one computer license that will be bound to the motherboard.

Earlier this year I helped someone with a Spanish build, and did a side by side assembly next to PCComponentes. The cost and build quality was the same. So if you want to have it assembled through PCComponentes then the price will be about the same +30 euros for the assembly. If you need help with PCComponentes let me know and I'll do a build through them.

Let me know if you have any questions!

u/ShiiftyShift · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

buy some arctic ones, they do the job and push a lot of air. you can get a 5 pack of them shipped for around £25. I used them personally and they do the job, but are a bit loud when you have all of them at full speed.

u/mirox · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.

If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.

Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

u/IsabellaQY · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would this pack of case fans be good fans for good air flow in the Phanteks P400S? Or does the P400S need static pressure fans, and if so how do I look for those?

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

> AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor

You could get the Ryzen 5 3600. It has 75% of the cores, but costs about 60%. It will give similar performance in high-resolution gaming.

> MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard

That is a fine choice. You could save money by buying a B450 motherboard (MSI MAX has new BIOS). You could also wait until January, when we expect new releases. These releases will include a B550 chip set and the motherboards that would go with them.

> hence the ultrawide 1440p display

I did not find that monitor because it is curved. I have not found that curved monitors work well. They catch the glare in the room, at every angle.

> Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Good power supply. You do not need that much power.

> quietness [...] be quiet! SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140 mm Fan

A ok choice, but not optimized. All fans are quiet when they are slow. The trick is being quiet at high speeds. I would move up to NF-A12x25 PWM, or step down to multi-pack fans from ARCTIC.

The Noctua A12x25 fan costs 50% more money then other fans because it moves 50% more air at the same noise levels. The new high-tech plastic blades have tight tip clearance, the fan bearings are quiet, and they have a circuit to smooth the PWM signals to the motor.

Sound Test Video: Noctua's NF-A12x25 - Magic on Radiators!

Testimonial Video: Noctua NF A12x25 Fan Review

Review Page: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Fan Review Conclusions

Arctic F14 PWM PST - Value Pack

ARCTIC F12 PWM PST - Value Pack 5pc

> Phanteks Evolv X ATX Mid Tower Case

It is hard to know what is the right choice for other people. I have a short list of cases that I recommend. Almost none of them come with fans, but that might be a coincidence.

  • In Win 303 (ATX)
  • In Win 301 (micro-ATX)
  • Fractal Design Focus G Mini (micro-ATX, comes with fans)
  • Ncase M1 (mini-ITX)
  • Silverstone SG13 (mini-ITX)

    > Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler

    I would move to the 120mm fan versions. If you want normal cooling, choose the Noctua NH-U12S. If you want extreme cooling and silence, get the Noctua NH-U12A. That will also let you get a normal-sized case and a almost any motherboard. (The height and width of the NH-D15 often force the video card out of the top slot.)

    Linus Tech Tips tests the NH-U12A: Why you shouldn't water cool your PC

    > Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory

    If I was going to pay for Corsair premium memory, I would buy the "RGB Pro" versions. If I was not buying for looks, I would get G.skill memory (or whatever is cheap). I have Corsair for price, but it is not a RGB kit.

    It looks like your kit is not RGB, so nevermind
u/wumbonumber9 · 1 pointr/buildapc

depends on budget, colors, and features you want.

this is your best bet for value if you want 5/5 fans. Enables you to run them all on low

u/PseudoCommet · 1 pointr/buildapc

No cooler needed if you are not going to overclock like crazy.

Better PSU, cheaper RAM.
Better SSD (new QLC technology)

If you want a bunch of fans, get these ones. Much cheaper overall.

u/entrapped_ · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're willing to spend $20 more you can get a Ryzen 5 2600, and for $7 more you can get these fans that come in a pack of 5 for cooling

u/pxlnght · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm sleeving some fan cables and am a bit confused. I'll be sleeving some Arctic PWM fans that have the little daisy chain thingy on them so you can chain several fans.

  1. What size paracord do I need? Is 550 big enough without being baggy?

  2. What size heatshrink? Google says 1/8, I just want to confirm.

  3. Can I remove the extra cable for daisy chaining? I won't be chaining any fans together. This is what the cable looks like. I'm talking about the extra thingy coming out of where the 4 pin connector is.

  4. Do I need a crimping tool and threader, or can I free ball it?

u/AsrockX370Taichi · 1 pointr/Amd

Looks good,

Get these fans imo,

I used some in a recent build, and they work quite well.

u/Kinsin101 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada
  1. Hey guys planning on upgrading my fans for my case, is this a good deal and/or reputable fans? Would like all noctuas but im just not rich enough sadly lol. my current cpu case is the nzxt source 530 also, been using for about 4 years and i clean it monthly but the ambient temps are starting to go up
  2. I'm thinking of parts for my next rig, currently waiting on zen 3, any good board recommendations? I've read that the bf450 tomahawk is good and the msi am4 carbon gaming mobo is good too, should I just wait in case new boards get launched? Trying to snag some deals

u/TF1357 · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $139.99
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $24.99
Motherboard | ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $104.99
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | Purchased For $100.00
Storage | Mushkin - Reactor 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $62.55
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $39.99
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card | Purchased For $206.10
Case | Thermaltake - V3 Black ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $39.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNova B2 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $89.99
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | Purchased For $0.00
Monitor | Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | Purchased For $359.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1168.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-29 22:10 EDT-0400 |

No matter how much I mess with the settings in the BIOS, I cannot get the CPU fan speed to ramp up with temperature. Silent mode, standard mode, etc all change the speed of the CPU fan at idle, but it does not change the speed under load, whether it's 35C or 65C.

I have these PWM fans, and it's plugged into the right header. My best guess is it's using the socket temp to change the speed, which almost never goes over 45C.

I want to overclock, but I have my fans running at sub 1000RPM while stress testing!

u/lukeM22 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

How many fans are you looking for? I have the following (all 120mm) :

2x AF120 white LED (3 pin)

2x Noctua NF-F12 (4 pin)

3x Arctic F12 (4 pin)- have PST adapters which I find really convenient.

u/olov244 · 1 pointr/buildapc

any of them would work it really depends on the fans you're getting and how much they cost

I'd get a 5 pack of something like

and put three 120's in the front, one up top, one in the back

u/NotYourEverydayDonut · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Go with whatever you feel safer with, There's no shame in not having a liquid cooler... If anything, get the 212 Evo, its cheap and it gets the job done. Plus its pretty much silent, much quieter than that loud ass stock fan.

I made the switch from a 212 Evo to an H100i

Hyper 212 Evo -- most recommended

CRYORIG H7 -- 2nd recommended

Noctua NH-D15 -- Expensive/Huge...

u/Nitegrip · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get this H7 Cooler it will look great and keep temps much lower than stock fan. Decently cheap as well.

u/Boom- · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hyper 212 isn't the best anymore, there's a couple options. This one runs cooler and quieter

u/tallbeerlover · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I would imagine installing windows on the new drive, then booting from it and copying stuff over wouldn't be too difficult. I'm not sure what your internet setup is, but for me it's just easier to 100% wipe and download/install than spend time moving things around.

You're absolutely right, stock Intel coolers work just fine, I saw a drop of only a few degrees when I put my Cryorig H7 in. I have garbage luck, so I will never trust a liquid cooling system.

u/MobileUser1 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/SingularityRS · 1 pointr/techsupport

Something like this:

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is another decent budget cooler. It's just a pain to install.

I use the Cryorig M9i to cool my i5 6600K (clocked to 4.4GHz).

u/SpectreFire · 1 pointr/bapccanada

Swap your CPU cooler out for a Cryroig H7:

There's really no reason anyone should be buying the 212 EVO now unless there's a really good deal. The Cryosrig has replaced it as the budget king.

u/Pie_Flavoured_Pie · 1 pointr/buildapc

What about this cooler? It has a similar price and from what I see it's smaller.

u/LunarBarsky · 1 pointr/techsupport

I suggest getting a Cryorig H7 instead. About the same price point and a bit easier to install than the Hyper 212.

u/InevBetrayal · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm also aware i can have both the HDD and the SSD.
Though if i'm going to spend money on the SSD at least i'll want to have the full advantage (OS+software).
However, after looking at how much space my steam library should take (I don't have a PC anymore, and the HDD is 1600km from me), i believe i'd be able to just uninstall all games from the HDD, clone the HDD into the SSD, and then reinstall the games on the HDD (with the ones i want to play staying on the SSD).

I can't buy from, it would have to be from

u/itsprime · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> Cryorug H7

is this one fine? link

also is that a heatsink or a solid cooler? Like I said, I don't really know much about this, would be awesome if you could clear this up before that solid cooler is ship to me.

u/crabypatty · 1 pointr/buildapc

> cryorig h 7 if you want

this 1 correct?

u/xTatersaladx · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ya ok ur right the one that came out like 2yrs ago was like 30-40. I think so Cryorig H7 Tower Cooler

u/Jimmy_Two_Fingers · 1 pointr/buildapc

Dunno why it's not on PCP, but this cooler is better and cheaper. The 120mm rad closed loop coolers are just not worth it. They're loud and pretty shit.

The 1070 would be alright for 4k. If it's performance is anywhere around the 980 Ti, which it looks like it is, you'll be able to play games at 4k on higher settings with AA turned off.

u/Made4Gaming · 1 pointr/buildapc

is this the right one wanna check before i order wrong item again haha.

and ram is already shipped. Dang wish i knew mire about these stuff. Well hopefully won't be to bad

u/Excogitate · 1 pointr/buildapc

CRYORIG M9i Mini Tower Cooler


CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler

Is it purely size? They both have good reviews, but the mini is cheaper and seems on par with the 212 cooler. Would the H7 be better, and justify the ~+$10?

u/Makaizen · 1 pointr/buildapc

For your graphics question, definitely wait on the reviews for the RX 480 to see if itll handle games at 1440p. If it doesn't then consider waiting for non-founders edition cards to be released closer to the $380 msrp.

One detail I noticed is that you are going to buy a haswell refresh CPU so you should purchase a Z97 chipset board instead. It supports Haswell refresh cpus out of the box and don't require a bios update like Z87s. Also, depending on the board you buy, Z97 also supports M.2 SSDs which could be useful for potential future upgrades.

As for your CPU cooler, while the D15 is very good for what it is, the Cryorig H7 will offer just nearly the same performance for a better value.

u/B1ack_Iron · 1 pointr/buildapc

Folks on Part Picker are saying I should have went with:


u/lations · 1 pointr/buildapc

Good advice. Since it's the K version of the 7700 I would like to overclock a little perhaps.

Alright, so how about the Cryorig H7?

u/herrroessmann · 1 pointr/buildapc