Best internal solid state drives according to redditors

We found 12,951 Reddit comments discussing the best internal solid state drives. We ranked the 980 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Internal Solid State Drives:

u/ScubaSteve7886 · 900 pointsr/buildapc

Samsung 860 EVO 1 TB is $127 on Amazon now

Edit: Link

u/grainhopsyeastwater · 231 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Same here. The SSD helped immensely.

Shaders preview immediately.

Load times drastically reduced. There are times when I've loaded into the tower, emptied my post master, and collected my loot -- all before my clan mates even load in.

Very few if any loads between areas (blind well / dreaming city) -- same deal, I'll be sparrowing along with some buds, we pass through a loading zone and suddenly I'm alone because they're all stuck in mid air loading the zone.

Well worth the ~$80 USD for the SSD.

EDIT: Since a lot of folks are asking -- I bought a Samsung EVO 860 250GB, which is currently for sale on Amazon for $58 (nearly $20 less than I paid), and paired it with a $10 Amazon Basics Hard Drive Enclosure.

I'm using an OG XB1 FWIW.



u/[deleted] · 151 pointsr/pcmasterrace

>5% off an SSD

It's not exactly Black Weekend, but I got 35% of an 1TB Evo 860 last week and the sale is still going (it's on BestBuy and Amazon, Amazon is a few bucks cheaper somehow) - that's roughly $130.

u/ConcreteSnake · 108 pointsr/buildapcsales

Best way I have found to look at the upcoming sales. Picked out a few hopefuls.

NZXT 850 - 3:15 am est

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - 7:30 am est

Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3200 - 9:55 am est

ViewSonic XG2401 24 Inch 1080p 1ms 144 Hz - 10:10 am est

NZXT AER RGB 2 - 3-Pack of 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Hue 2 Lighting Controller - 11:55 am est

XPG Spectrix D80 Liquid-Cooled RGB DDR4 3600MHz 16GB - 12:05 pm est

Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler - 12:05 pm

NZXT H700 - 2:20pm est

u/ProffGeek · 91 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I just did a quick search and a 500GB Samsung SSD is only $80 right now.

I copied someone else's comment

u/duckvimes_ · 79 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is not a sale.

The list price on Amazon is $107, which is exactly the same.

The fact that you are taking some sitewide coupon and applying it to this does not make it a sale.

u/nlofe · 62 pointsr/facepalm

Nope. Because I'm bored:

Thing | Cost | Link
27" 5K Monitor (though IMO the difference between 4K and 5K is marginal and not worth the extra grand) | $1489 |
1TB SSD | $162.99 |
Intel Xeon W (note: faster than Mac's) | $1189 |
Motherboard | $293 |
32GB RAM | $245 |
PSU | $104 |
Vega 56 | $410 |
Pretty Case | $189 |

Total Cost: $4,082

Edit: forgot Vega 56

u/apackofmonkeys · 59 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Any brand will do in PS4 because PS4 OS is not optimized for SSD. (xbox is different, I think you will get better speeds from better drives) However, one of the best ones is on sale for only $57 today:

That's actually an internal drive, so you'd still need to buy an external enclosure to put it in, this is the one I bought (it comes with a USB cable so no need to buy that separately):

The installation is easy. If you've ever put a Nintendo cartridge into a Nintendo then you have the skills necessary to install the drive into the enclosure. After that, plug in the cable, and google where in the ps4 menu to format the drive as external storage (I forget off the top of my head). Then, highlight Destiny 2 on ps4, press "Options", then select move to external storage. It took about 15 mintues for me. Then it was all ready!

u/_GoToGulag_ · 43 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black

$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black


$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel

$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3

$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN

$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA

$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync

$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA

$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months

$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless


$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X


$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch

$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB

$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB

$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA

$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD

$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD

$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD

$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White

$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN

$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD


$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray

$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months

$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months


Other Components

$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime

$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime

$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB

$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard

$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA

$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU

$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW


$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse

$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse

$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse

$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor

$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor

$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch

$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX

$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL

$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth

$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard

$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch

$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)


$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh

$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh

$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh

$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)

u/Gibber117 · 35 pointsr/buildapcsales

At that price, I would just get the

[SSD] Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA III SSD - $114 (Lowest)

According to UserBenchmark, the Crucial drive is 25-30% faster.

u/janakusa · 33 pointsr/battlestations
u/AesirRising · 31 pointsr/buildapcsales

1 TB SATA SSD have been at 150ish for some time now. Patience and buy if it’s under 130

Edit: Evidence WD 1 TB Reg Price in Amazon for a few weeks now $149

Same Crucial on Amazon 159$ regular price

u/king-_-friday · 30 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same price on Amazon with Prime shipping (if you're into that kind of thing).

u/KabyBlue · 28 pointsr/buildapcsales

This ain't it chief...

Was <$100 a few days ago HERE...$100 or less for 1TB or no deal -- at this price, might as well go for the Evo 860 or MX500 🤔

u/salty_dildeaux · 28 pointsr/pathofexile
u/AGWiebe · 27 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Heads up. Same price on amazon with better return policy.

Also looks like it is QLC if that matters to you.

u/CallMeBigPapaya · 26 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're interested the 1TB is only the cost of 2 of these + $7 on amazon.

u/weirdo808 · 24 pointsr/buildapcsales

My question, is this
(WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B) worth $65? It's a normal sata speed m.2, not nvme

I have a free m.2 slot that doesn't support nvme, just normal sata speeds.

u/RembrMe · 23 pointsr/buildapcsales

Am I missing something or is this the same price on amazon?

u/Proxximos · 23 pointsr/GameDeals

Here you can get the 250g on Amazon for $109 compared to Neweggs $149. You still get the game free with this deal also. Picked this up yesterday and just gotta wait for the email code

u/ssscarecrow · 22 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same price on Amazon

u/PriceKnight · 22 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Price History

  • Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD CT1000P1SSD8 ^PureLink

    Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
    ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fb8lkn0%2Fssd_crucial_1tb_nvme_fast_20001700readwrite%2Fejyhfhw%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
u/AmazingLulz · 21 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

It's been that price on Amazon since September 21. The M.2 version is actually cheaper at $199.99.

u/fearmywrench · 19 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

For comparison, the higher model is $30 more at $159.99

The BX300 seems really good for the price too though, just worth noting the difference in price for other options

u/gamebrigada · 19 pointsr/hardware

Yup. That still doesn't discount that you are comparing a sales price to an MSRP. Factually, the 860 EVO didn't even last a month at MSRP before it was discounted 12% on Why would this be any different?

u/Bubaroo3 · 16 pointsr/GamingLaptops

I would do the following to be sure your laptop will last you several years:

  1. Download software to monitor the temp of you CPU and GPU, personally I use MSI Afterburner
  2. If your CPU temps are higher than 85C, consider undervolting using this guide
  3. If your laptop is hooked up to an external monitor, get a laptop stand like this to increase airflow
  4. Every 6 months or so, remove the bottom panel of the laptop, and use compressed air to clear out dust from the internal components

    Aside from that, I would also recommend replacing your slow 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD. I own a Y740 myself, and I replaced the HDD with this following this guide
u/NewYearNewAccount_ · 16 pointsr/buildapcsales

NVMe is MUCH faster than Sata SSD. Is that what you're asking?

M.2 is the connection but there are two types of drives that use this port.

One is SATA ssd (6gbs) which is the same speed as a typical 2.5 sata ssd.

But the NVMe (32gbs) is many times faster than that. (It uses PCI bandwidth instead of sata which is part of the reason its so fast.)

Its noticeably faster if you're doing content creation like editing and such. And while it is slightly noticeable in game load times and day-to-day PC use, most people don't feel the extra $$ is worth the upgrade to NVMe. (I am not one of those people lol. I like speeeeeed)

u/RendHeaven · 16 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/delectable_homie · 16 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/maxximum_ride · 16 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Amazon has a wonderful case-thing with cables, and Samsung sells a nice compact 2.5" SSD that can go as low as 250GB, and as high as 4TB. I bought the 250GB one with the case-thing and only paid about $72 total. Both can be bought through Amazon, and are both under Prime shipping if you have it, so your SSD will be here and ready in no time at all. I highly recommend it if you are a heavy Destiny player.

Here is a link to the Samsung SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

Here is a link to the Amazon case: AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0

u/jcarberry · 16 pointsr/buildapcsales

Unless you need the small form factor, this should perform identical to the cheaper 2.5in SATA drives.

u/RobbeSch · 15 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Here's a direct link: I'm not a fan of random websites in between.

u/Redd1tTr011 · 15 pointsr/hardwareswap

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)

$129 warehouse deal...which is usually new/return.

You have to do a lot better than 125 for used ones

u/gm3995 · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Don't bother going with an NVME SSD, just get an M.2 SATA one, you'll get a lot more for your money, and the real world performance will be unnoticeably different.

This one is double the capacity, pretty much the same price.

EDIT: and here's some benchmarks I found quickly for gaming.

If you're just doing gaming, just get a SATA one. NVME is very overhyped for the average consumer.

u/Jakedagreat · 14 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is the link for amazon

u/InevitableHawk · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

I feel it's hard to justify this when you can get a 960 evo with 250 gb for $117 on amazon but if you really only need 120GB then I guess? Also there is no way this is worth $125 with my previous statement.

u/BoiledFrogs · 13 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

$120 is a bullshit regular price, don't believe it. Pretty sure this is about regular price on Amazon. This is a budget drive, which is still going to be much better than an HDD, but $90 is too much. I'd get this instead, it's an all around better drive. Or wait for the A400 to hit a lower price.

u/mr-peabody · 13 pointsr/CrappyDesign

>storage capacity would go up in multiples of 8

It's not always advertised like that though. You can get 250GB or 500GB SSDs. But yes, typically with flash cards and USB drives, it's multiples of 8.

u/t1m1d · 13 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'd also have to recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I got a 250gb one for around $110 on sale back in march, and it's amazing.

They're still around $120 but it's totally worth it. I'd also recommend this size in particular. 120 is too small and the others are too expensive.

Transferring Windows over was a huge pain, but once it was done and I restarted, it was totally worth it. If you do a clean install it's way quicker. Seeing your pc boot to an instantly usable desktop in less than 10 seconds is totally worth it. Also putting steam on it was awesome.

I've been able to quit a cs:go competitive match, restart my computer, open steam, and rejoin the game well within the 3 minute window before you get penalized for leaving.

tl:dr get one

u/RealCecilHarvey · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

That's not remotely comparable in price since it's 1/4 the size. Luckily this one is one sale for $100 pretty often so your point is still mostly valid.

u/gurellia53 · 12 pointsr/DataHoarder


check out the video at the end of the pictures.

u/rage_prone · 12 pointsr/24hoursupport that right there is the M.2 slot. I labelled it SSD but it might be a NVME slot.

Before you do anything, google your laptop's model and check if it has (m.2 nvme) slot or ( m.2 SSD) slot (this will also be inscribed on the slot itself if you look closely)

Buy one of these of your brand/capacity of choice:



Follow this installation guide or a similar video

u/Aj5abi · 12 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is the lowest price I've seen for this one and may be the lowest its ever been.
Its still going for $277.99 on Amazon and CamelCamelCamel says that was the lowest. Pcpartpicker still hasn't updated their prices but it also shows $277.99 as the previous low.

Edit: Amazon has reduced it's price to match the new low at Newegg!

u/meatwad75892 · 12 pointsr/mac

Literally any 2.5" SATA drive would work-- HDD, SSD, or SSHD of any brand.

Unless you actually need that 1TB of space at that cheap of a price, definitely get an SSD instead. 500GB for <$90 is a steal for the performance difference.

Also, while you're in there... I'd suggest taking the below preventative measure for your SATA cable while you're at it. The 2009-2012 models are bad about cables failing from the bends and/or the ribbon shorting out against the chassis, and replacing drives/moving this cable seems to make it way more temperamental no matter how careful you are.

u/TSOTM · 12 pointsr/buildapc

> the 850 Pro doesn't seem to be worth the extra cost.

It's not, the 850 EVO is worth it though. Expensive, but it has a right to be, pretty much the best 2.5" SSD on the market. A cheaper alternative would be this:

Oh, and the 750GB version is on your budget. If you think you need more than 500GB, that's up to you to consider:

u/fsko · 12 pointsr/india

Processor - Ryzen 5 1600 - 17k

Motherboard - Any good motherboard which support AM4 socket. Dont choose the cheapest one. - GIGABYTE GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 AM4 - 7k

RAM - Any good 8GB DDR4 2400Mhz(or more) RAM HyperX FURY Black 8 GB 2400 - 6k

SSD - Get atleast 250GB. Nvme ssd is much faster than sata ssd. Samsung is the best in SSDs. - Samsung 960 EVO nvme - 11k

Power supply - Get a good power supply. Don't cheap out. This is the one thing keeping your other components safe. Bad power supply can even catch fire. Corsair VS650 - 4.5k

Cabinet - Get whatever you like. You can get cool looking cabinet for less than 2k to 3k. Iball Stallion - 2.5k

Hard disk - You can always buy more storage later- WD internal 2TB -5k

Graphic card - It is a must have because Ryzen doesnt have an internal GPU. Nvidia 1050 Ti - 1050ti -12k

Total - 65K

You will get better prices if you look around. In most cases, it is overpriced on Amazon. I have just mentioned approx prices.

If you want better performance than this, then just spend 5k more on the processor and get Ryzen 1600X + Coolermaster 212 cooler.

u/hopelessly_positive · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same price on Amazon.

u/asd913 · 11 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/scuffling · 11 pointsr/battlestations


|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|


u/was2wuz · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

These may/may not be considered a deal but here's what I found

ASUS PRIME Z370-A ($121 - 20%)

Samsung 970 EVO 500GB ($118-20%)

EVGA CLC 280mm All-In-One RGB LED CPU Liquid Cooler ($76-20%)

EVGA M01C-61-000002 CLC Tuner ($5-20%)


Edit: There's also a wacky rgb fan

u/autumn-morning-2085 · 11 pointsr/india

Nice price for a 240GB SSD: Kingston A400 240G
Bought one.

₹3199 (₹2880 after the 10% ICICI Discount). I see /r/india mentioned a few times for the lowest SSD prices, but this offer seems to be better than the lowest price there (and also too lazy to enter details on new site).

Or 120GB SSD @ ₹1700: WD 120G

u/dr3d3d · 11 pointsr/PleX

Your budget is generous not "cheap" so with the goal of $1000 plex server here is what I would do...

EDIT: THIS WON'T TRANSCODE 4k... however thats ok because 4K transcoded are washed out... use high bitrate 1080P looks just as good if sitting 4' or further away.. if you want 4k for the HDR then use a player that can play 4k hdr(almost any tv does now.. i have a $600 65" TV that does it just fine)


u/DonnyJoseph0 · 11 pointsr/buildapc

This is entirely incorrect.

i7-4770 CPU, 16GB RAM, 400W PSU (Tower for $283 w/ haggle option)

EVGA GTX 1060 6GB ($180)

Kingston A400 120GB SSD ($29)


The i7-4770 pretty much matches the i5-7500 in individual core performance, but it also has hyperthreading.

16GB of RAM so you should be able to play just about anything comfortably.

Lower power draw on the GTX 1060 6GB. I would choose EVGA first owner with a box for transferable warranty.

Also, just buying from Ebay protects you for a month.

And yeah, I've done this before. Works perfectly. It won't light up your room, but it'll put the pixels on the screen better.

u/dtallee · 10 pointsr/windows
u/clumsyfork · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I think 960 EVO is a better bet. It costs $117.60 before tax new on Amazon right now and it comes with a 3 year warranty. I believe the performance is close to the 950 PRO. It has 6 gigs less space though.

u/Jeffrobuc03 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

Decent drive but a QVO not EVO which is much faster and be had at Amazon for $139 now if want a faster drive.

u/xandarg · 10 pointsr/buildapc
  • CPU Cooler
    • Very good
  • CPU
    • Check here - it looks like for animation/rendering, you'll get better absolute performance, and performance/dollar, from a Ryzen CPU (the 3000 series just released, and, unlike past generations, the highest core count CPU also has the highest single core boost, so it's pretty insane, as showcased by the placement of the 3900x on the chart in that link).
  • SSD
    • I assume animation workloads require streaming large files, so you'll do better with a faster NVMe SSD, as opposed to the SATA SSDs you chose. Here are two choices that should work well---with the Sabrent, you could get just one 2TB drive; but if you go with two 1TB drives make sure your motherboard has 2 full speed M2 slots. If you do end up going with something like the Ryzen 3900x CPU, then you can even get an X570 motherboard which supports PCIe4, allowing you to get even faster NVMe SSDs (though they're twice as expensive, so check benchmarks for your particular applications to see if it's worth it over spending the money on a GPU/CPU upgrade).
u/candre23 · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can get a generic 120GB SSD for $21. That's objectively cheap. It's not big or fast as SSDs go, but it's a hell of a lot better as a boot drive than any rusty platter.

And you can step up to a legitimately-good name brand for not much more. Samsung sells their previous-gen evos for peanuts. $56 for a 250GB drive that is actually decent might not be impulse-purchase territory for everybody, but it's cheaper than a single AAA game.

u/jbosse · 10 pointsr/hardware

Samsung 840 EVO 120GB on amazon for only $59.99 USD +a free code for FC4.

u/stumpysharcat · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's ~$5 less than 1TB MX500 (5y warranty), and that's only if you have an Amazon Prime Visa card for the 15% cash back, although tax is obviously charged pre-cashback so ad another $2-$3. It's a tough call, depends more on who is better re: warranty.

e: oops! should have responded to r/JerHawkins37

u/schoolpaddled · 10 pointsr/ChoosingBeggars

I didn't know you could do that!

Send it to me, please!

Oh wait, it's not mine!

PS: looks like you may need to replace SSD cable when you upgrade:

Recommend the Crucial or a Samsung 2.5:

You don't need the Samsung pro.

This is very cheap compared to what it cost last year:

u/Crazykirsch · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

OK just to be certain, this is the same SSD as featured here correct?

Is the HOLIDAY18 a one-time use promo?

u/Cidician · 9 pointsr/DataHoarder
u/apmauj · 9 pointsr/uruguay

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

u/tamasmagyarhunor · 9 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Benchmarks suggest that this is 20% below usual ssd performance ( 450-425 mb/s r/w vs industry 500/500+ mb/s average ), but you still got a massive 3-8x faster speeds comparing to a HDD.this ssd compared to 970 evo 500gb :

one of the best value ssd's out on the market the Crucial mx500 comparison, pricewise they are around the same level, if you ask me, I'd go with Crucial instead:

it costs ~129£ here

u/SupNinjaa · 9 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Link. The voucher is for 14%, and is applied directly under the price just by ticking the voucher box. Total is £101.47, which is worth it as it's a much faster drive.

u/DankFrank99 · 9 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

This comes out at 99.98 after the voucher is applied, has a high end controller and toshiba TLC memory. Runs ~same speed as samsung 970 evo.

u/shinfo44 · 9 pointsr/hardwareswap

If you consider lowering the price on the SSD as well as selling it as a normal SSD, I would consider buying it. Having Windows on a SSD shouldn't really increase its value, in my opinion. Windows Keys are tied to the motherboard, not the drive it lives on. Windows as a software is technically free.

Just for reference, a brand new Kingston 128B SSD on Amazon goes for $22 dollars.

u/cmiles777 · 9 pointsr/hackintosh

PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)

u/ImKrispy · 9 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Ignore the P1 it's QLC there is no reason to get QLC now that the TLC drives have come down in price substantially.

You can get the sabrent rocket 1tb with the coupon for $150 NO TAX

u/Masterdan · 8 pointsr/bapccanada

(1) 1TB SSD on sale for $130. The days of having to compromise and have an OS SSD and everything else on old-school HDDs is over at this pricepoint.

(2) Get the Ryzen 5 3600. Its so much better and I've seen it for $260ish which isn't much more for a +10-20% performance on a much more efficient 7nm fab.

(3) If you can afford it, I'd get the 2060 Super or wait for the 5700/5700XT to come out with a non-blower based cooling option. You're looking at $500ish for a graphic card, but the 1660Ti is a lot of money for a card that already feels eclipsed by more recent releases.

u/gochris · 8 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

This or the Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 for $106? This would be for OS + games, or...I could maybe keep my 256GB SSD for OS and use this 1TB for games.

u/Vealzy · 8 pointsr/buildapcforme

I would like to support this build, it is very well made. Just one change i would make to it, go for this ssd. It has better performance that the Intel and its at the same price.

u/han_ay · 8 pointsr/Amd

The SSD market seems to have crashed in the past year (at least on Amazon UK) - a year ago 1TB cost £230, now it's £140

u/Vanarp_Letap · 8 pointsr/buildapc

That’s a good mobo, costs more but anything cheaper has bad VRMs,

this video is good for motherboards.

Good Reddit post on bdie RAM.

I also think the higher end builds should have a 1TB ssd, and this one is nice.

And as other commenters said, a better PSU and perhaps a nicer case (meshify C, and H500 are both nice) on the higher end builds would be a good improvement.

u/Westify · 8 pointsr/buildapc

Would strongly recommend a 250gb drive as space on a 128gb drives goes extremely quickly

This drive would be great.

u/UsePreparationH · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

The MX500 SSD is a SATA based SSD which maxes out at ~560MB/s, this one is NVME based and maxes out at 1800MB/s.

You can see the 1TB MX500 and 1TB 660p compared in this review.,5719-2.html

If you want something faster then you may want to look at Phison E12 based SSDs which start at ~$110. Anything past that such as the Samsung 970 EVO starts getting way too expensive with a 500GB drive costing about the same as this 1TB 660p.

The Corsair Sabrent Rocket, Corsair MP510, Silicon Power P34A80, and a few others are all E12 based SSDs and will all perform about the same.

u/jxn_w · 8 pointsr/teslamotors

I bought a Kingston SATA 250GB SSD with a SATA to USB adapter. Works great.



u/monkeybusiness124 · 8 pointsr/teslamotors

Kingston 240GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/240G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance

This is $32 for a 240gb external SSD. i think it is worth having for such a little cost. No idea where you are getting $100-200, as that’s what I paid for my 250gb SSD back in 2013. Then you dont ever also have to worry about slow write speeds or emptying it every month or so

u/theytookmygdname · 8 pointsr/buildapc

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)

u/carp991 · 8 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/TheHippySteve · 8 pointsr/hardwareswap

Bad timing bro

Samsung 840 Evo 120GB

u/WinterCharm · 7 pointsr/apple
  1. Get the RAM from OWC

  2. For the SSD, get a samsung 840 EVO. They are one of the best deals around. (250GB for $140)

  3. you need to install OS X on the new drive. Before changing anything, be sure to download a copy of OS X, and make a bootable flash drive. Instructions here:

  4. Caveats: You'll need to enable TRIM on the SSD. This is easy. Use TRIM Enabler (Free)

  5. Step By Step:

  6. Replacement batteries can be bought at the Apple store.
u/kasper12 · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Ah. And a good question none the less. No it doesn't. Which I didn't even know about. So I actually just went ahead and cancelled my eBay order and ordered it on Amazon for $109.99 and got far cry 4, which steam has listed at $59.99 all for $109.99 with free shipping.

The far cry 4 deal only applies to Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB and above I believe. After ctrl + f for far cry, it comes up on specials and promotions for the 250 but not the smaller one.

Link for those who are lazy:

u/ArkComet · 7 pointsr/buildapc

This WD Blue 1TB M.2 SATA SSD is $115, but goes on sale for $99 pretty often. There is also the intel 1TB 660p NVMe M.2 drive that runs about $90. Both are good options, I have the WD Blue one and it works perfectly, it probably costs a bit more because of brand/reliability.

u/unicornfan91 · 7 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/discwars · 7 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

The MX500 is slightly cheaper and I would favour it over the WD. Link

u/JagSKX · 7 pointsr/laptops

Samsung 860 EVO SSDs are basically rated the best in terms of performance and the best SSD brand with only a minor price premium. The 500GB version is $80 while the 250GB is $58.


They are $5 more compared to the Crucial MX500 models for the same capacities. Samsung has their own migration software (works only with Samsung) that you can download from their site if you want to clone your current hard drive. However, most people are unlikely to notice the performance difference



Don't know much about the Crucial BX500 or WD Green series SSDs. But even slow SSDs are much faster than than the fastest hard drive.

u/sev0012 · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

This or this?

u/CyberJeeves · 7 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

The Samsung 840 EVO provides good capacity, reliability and speed for the money. At $140 for 256GB of storage, it also fits into your budget while supporting SATA III.

u/panders2reddit · 7 pointsr/apple

Here are the products without the referral links:

u/cargous · 7 pointsr/ableton

I have the same 13” mid 2012 MBP and am running 16gb of RAM w/ a 1TB SSD. I also have the same version of Ableton as you. The official specs from Apple list 8gb RAM as the max but it can for sure support 16gb. Based on the specs you provided I’d guess you have the i5 version which comes stock with 4gb of RAM and the 500gb HDD. Your model will support 16gb and you’ll see a significant boost in performance, with Ableton and the computer in general, if you add 16gb and an SSD. If you leave the standard 500gb HDD, I'd assume you'd only see a moderate boost in performance since that's really the big driver of slow performance. I can't speak to the performance of Omnisphere as I don't have a working copy but I do know it made a significant boost for pretty much everything in Ableton and otherwise.


My recommendation would be to add 16gb of RAM plus an SSD. They are both relatively straight forward processes as well (links below), just need the right tools and to take your time. Watch YouTube tutorials. Attaching links to the items I have in mine. I'd recommend getting the Crucial RAM and Samsung SSD (which is what I have and has a higher performance rating), but the Crucial SSD will be adequate as well.


Let me know if you have other questions on it.



HDD Swap -

RAM Swap -



Crucial SSD -

Samsung SSD -


Tool Kit -

u/Snakeobich · 7 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I went with this Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD.

And this Orico adapter.

It works phenomenally. Cut all of my load times in half, and intra-instance load times are nonexistent.

Highly recommend it.

u/ihavenolifeee · 7 pointsr/hardwareswap

This is kind of high for used prices, esp without original packaging. The 860s are about 83 usd on amazon.

They often go on sale for less too, ssd prices have been going down lately. EX for 65 USD new with packaging/ebay buyer protection.

u/paulatreides0 · 7 pointsr/neoliberal

/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds

So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.

Okay, so things to keep in mind:

  1. If you go Intel, overclocking isn't too great on 9th gen intel, especially if you don't have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler. So if you don't plan on doing that at some point then you don't need a K series CPU and an overclocking motherboard. So your motherboard should primarily focus on giving you decent I/O options.

  2. You also probably want to aim for 1080p or 1440p tops, given your price range.

  3. Related to #1: If you don't plan on overclocking then a basic-ish mobo will do fine, and you mainly want to focus on I/O and other features. If you are getting Intel doubly so, as, as I mentioned before, intel 9th gen doesn't overclock well due to relatively low headroom to begin with. For intel overclocking boards are "Z" while non-overclocking boards are "B". For AMD they are "X" and "B" respectively.

    The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.

    That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.

    Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.

    The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.

    This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.

    So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.

    The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.

    That puts us at around ~$800.

    $80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.

    We're at ~$880.

    Some good thermal paste for your CPU.

    We're now at ~$890.

    Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.

    For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.

    That makes for ~$990.

    If you need lots of extra space

    If you need extreme extra space

    Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.

    Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.

    This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).

    I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.

    One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.

    So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.

    But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
u/Billeur · 7 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Because it's not a full-on deal, I'll post it here: Amazon has multiple Crucial P1 1TB drives for less than 100$, in Warehouse Deals.

E: All 7 of them have been sold.

u/plywoodgames · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

It looks like amazon matched (well, beat by a penny). Slightly different mfr#: B&H # SAMZN6E1T0BW MFR # MZ-N6E1T0BW, amazon #MZ-76E1T0B/AM.

I am on the lookout for a damn fine deal on a quality 2TB SSD.

u/wpnz · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

$149 at Amazon if you don't have MC

u/Mindless_Art · 7 pointsr/mac

Well, first off: OS X 10.11 El Capitan isn't the newest macOS version for your MacBook Pro. Your MacBook pro actually supports macOS 10.13 High Sierra. High Sierra can still be downloaded from the Mac App Store, it is just hidden. Here is the link to it (click this link in Safari only, not in Chrome or Firefox!):

u/zakabog · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That'll cost you $50 for USB or $30 for a SATA SSD.

I have dozens of drives I've collected over the years, but with storage being so cheap it's easier to transfer your data to a new device rather than rely on a drive so near the end of it's life. Keep the old drive in a bin if you want to keep it for the lulz, but I wouldn't actually use it in my build.

u/dfiner · 7 pointsr/pathofexile

If you can't swing $30 on an SSD (this one is 240 GB, so it can easily hold windows AND many games on it) to vastly improve your quality of life in your hobby, then you have other problems, and you should probably be using your time gaming either working a part time job, extra hours at your main job, or going through your stuff selling what you don't need on ebay/craigslist. The example I found took all of 5 seconds to find, I'm SURE you could find a better deal or a cheaper one out there with a modicum of effort. SSDs have been VERY affordable ($50 or less) for 3-4 years now, and mainstream in gaming PCs for at least 7. Some people have been using them for over a decade. It's about as reasonable to expect developers to cater to PCs without SSDs as it would be to expect developers to make all their new games run flawlessly on a Playstation 2.

Having financial stresses when you can do something about it (and having the free time to play games means you CAN do something about it, even if you're disabled there's ways to earn money even online) is going to needlessly contribute to anxiety and depression. Here's some ideas if you need some:

  • Donate plasma or blood (many places actually pay you for this, especially if you have a needed blood type like O)
  • Take paid surveys online
  • Go through your old junk you never use and sell some of it on ebay/craigslist
  • Offer to do some menial work for a neighbor or friend (cutting the grass, watching a pet, housesitting, etc)
  • Fight the urge to buy games for ONE steam sale (this is admittedly the hardest, but let's be real, 90% of the games people buy during these never get played)
  • Chose to buy ONE less game over the course of the year to vastly improve your enjoyment of all the other games you play for the next 5+ years.
u/surfmaster · 7 pointsr/starcitizen

Just pointing out that you can get a decent quality SSD with more than enough space for SC and a couple more games for $20 or less

u/ShotgunPayDay · 7 pointsr/Amd

If Best Buy does Price Matching your friend could save a cool $100 right now. Then drop the savings on this

u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/sffpc


I've now installed about 2 dozen of these puppies. And plan to deploy another dozen or two within the next year.

It's a fantastic work terminal, mini-server, cluster-node. I can't recommend enough that if you go this route, you get a Samsung 960 Pro as the primary SSD. 960 Evo could also work for a workstation that won't be doing any server or VM hosting roles. So much of system performance these days is bottle necked by primary drives. The NUK6i7's biggest strength is the 2x PCIe capable M.2 slots.

A minor downside for "3 to 4 1920x1200 monitors" is that you'll need some dongles or daisy chains to get more then 2 monitors. The plus here is that the Thunderbolt3 port and miniDisplayPort gives you quite a few options for display adapters. The setup I use with it and setup others with usually involves 2-3 Ultrawide LG displays. Personally use 2x 25" Ultrawide stacked on top of each other on my left as tertiary monitors and a 29" Ultrawide as my primary.

Reasons not to go with the NUC6i7.

u/Slayer_Blake · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Sabrent Rocket 1tb is $110 at the moment if you are looking for a cheaper 1tb nvme

although the drive OP posted is nicer

u/TimberMeadow · 7 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/KerozHany · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazon been selling it for the same price for few weeks now.

u/Hakxon · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's now price matched on if have gift cards or extra rewards on Amazon or just prefer Amazon's customer support


u/ivan659712 · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 $105.99 with Prime

u/ShapeOfAUnicorn · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I'm building a new high end pc from the ground up. Should I be taking advantage of any of these sales? I feel like the mouse and power supply are automatic purchases but I'm a newbie so I wanted to see if I can get any help here first. Sorry if this is filling up the discussion post.


I read that the crucial's aren't good because once you reach 75% capacity it dramatically slows your pc down? Also, don't know if external SSDs are recommended but should I bite on that SanDisk?

Samsung 1TB 860 EVO

Crucial P1 1TB m.2 SSD

SanDisk 1TB Portable External SSD

Power Supply

Corsair RM850x, 850 Watt Gold Certified Fully Modular Power Supply


I don't even know if I will need a coouler, and if I want to go liquid cooling route, and I don't care about RGB, but for a high end pc I'm assuming I should buy?

Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler


This seems like the best deal on a mouse no?

Logitech® MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse


Was actually looking for 32GB RAM, should I pass since if I go AMD mobo route, having to use more than 2 will cause a slowdown right?

Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s

u/77xak · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Your motherboard supports either SATA or NVMe. NVMe is faster, however you won't notice the extra speed unless you do certain tasks that read/write massive amounts of data regularly (common example is high res video editing.)

That being said, there are now some NVMe drives such as the Crucial P1 which are similar in price to SATA drives, in which case you get both speed and cost effectiveness.

u/cyaaron · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Consider a NON-SATA SSD. It'll be a tad more expensive but worth it. SATA has inherent speed bottlenecks and the gains are noticeable. I don't think the mobo has m.2 slots, but if it does(asrock b450m-hdv is ITX, has m.2, and is way cheaper) then you won't need another mobo.

Also pay attention to the m.2 slot wiring. Some are m-key(NVMe) only and others are b+m(NVMe+SATA Compatible).

The SSD I linked below is double the price but more than doubles your speed.

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

u/Trexfromouterspace · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I'm not telling you to get a 1TB 970 Evo, I'm telling you to get a 1TB SSD from a different brand. I linked them earlier, but again, this or this.

If you're worried about money, you should in absolutely no circumstances be buying a 970 evo. It's overpriced at all capacities.

u/d3lap · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Also available on amazon for 69$ Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 250GB Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) [US Version]

u/slicebucket · 6 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I ordered and recieved this SSD and enclosure last week...specifically for Destiny 2. The improvement in load times cannot be understated, even on my Xbox One X.

AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard...

u/MtnDewX · 6 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I got the exact same thing as from this post, since the OP had indicated success:

I searched and found the items on Amazon, so ordered from there instead of the site from the post above:

(let me know if the links don't work - posting from my phone)

u/kansasjeremy · 6 pointsr/hardwareswap

i know it's sold out right now, but 850 evo 1tb refurbs have been going for about $200 on best buy lately:

not to mention 860 evo 1tb brand new is $330

u/AnticitizenPrime · 6 pointsr/cinematography

The biggest WTF for me concerning the Ursa is the use of those ridiculously expensive CFast cards. With that 17 pound behemoth of a camera, they couldn't figure out a way to squeeze in an SSD slot?

This 250 GB SSD's dimensions are:

> Product Dimensions: 3.9 x 0.3 x 2.8 inches ; 1.9 ounces

That's roughly the size and weight of a deck of playing cards. That's nothing. It's $129.

The price for a 256 GB Cfast card? $1,414.55. Four of those memory cards is as expensive as the damn camera!

u/TsuDoughNym · 6 pointsr/computers
  • Get an SSD, ASAP. Single best upgrade you can make to ANY PC - 250GB Samsung 840 Evo is $75 on Amazon, the 850 Evo is $90. If you want 500GB, you'll pay about $150 for the 850 EVO, 840 EVO doesn't have the 500GB available (Amazon shows it at $272 for a 500GB?! I think it's no longer produced)

  • Max out your RAM. Your MoBo can support 32GB of RAM -- 16GB should do you plenty of good. $67 on NewEgg

  • So far that's only $142 of your $350. That leaves you with $208 for a nice GPU. I have a GeForce GTX 750Ti that does great, and I'm not a gamer at all, so I really only bought it in case I decide to game later on (Dark Souls 3 will apparently run perfectly on my machine, which makes me very happy). You can get a GTX 950 or 960 under that price limit, both are mid to high tier graphics cards (980 is the highest in the series, atm [correct me if I'm wrong I don't know shit about gaming GPU's])

  • If you don't want to spend $200 on a GPU, or if you can up your budget to $400, you can get both a really nice GPU and a better motherboard that supports DDR4 RAM, which of course increases the cost of the RAM, but it's all about future proofing.

    TL;DR: For the amount of your budget, buy the SSD and RAM I recommended. Either spend $200 on a GPU or spend $150 on a mid-tier GPU, up your budget to $400 and get a better MoBo for future upgrades. Good luck!

    Edit -- I just saw you have an AMD CPU. I've heard that nVidia & Intel work better together, and AMD works best with the other cards. Adjust accordingly.
u/Beznia · 6 pointsr/oculus

I'd definitely recommend making a post on /r/BuildAPC. The build looks nice but I'd definitely recommend getting at least a 1TB HDD for about $50. Liquid CPU cooling is overkill for you since the CPU you chose can't be overclocked. A simple $20 cooler will keep it sub 60C for most workloads.

Also, I'd pay an extra $10 for this Samsung 840 250GB SSD instead. Speeds ar emuch better, plus it comes with a download code for Far Cry 4.

u/Ouryus · 6 pointsr/Guildwars2

Samsung evo 860 is the latest version and well worth the money.

I got a 850 a couple years ago and it's still a lot better then a HDD. I keep my operating system, gw2, and one other game on it. Get a 1-2TB western digital hard drive for other games/file storage.

Also on copying gw2, I did it but had to repair the game for it to work again (only took five minutes).

u/io2red · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Is there any reason to get this instead of a Sabrent Rocket for $9 less? (Aside from the additional 50 MB/s read which is pretty negligible at 3450 MB/s)

u/cowardly_lying · 6 pointsr/WindowsMR

You can return games if you directly buy them from steam and play for less than 2 hours. Having a ssd instead of a hd has changed my life. If you have $50-100 you should upgrade that. Your GPU will likely play many games just fine. It might not work well for games where the camera moves. Games like rollercoasters and FPS make some people very sick if the framerate is not high enough. I nope out of most coaster apps immediately. Skyrim makes me mildly sick with a rx480. There is one low quality coaster app that does not bug me at all.

You might not love fallout 4 vr as much as you would guess. I LOVE Skyrim. I have only played 10-15 mins in vr. The menus and controls are not great. It feels very awkward. My framerate is barely good enough to avoid nausea with free movement. I have not tried teleportation yet. I will mod it for speech control and max my carry weight so I can ignore most of the ui. I hear that FO4vr has most of the same issues and you cant mod it. I also love FO4 but I will wait for a sale and might return it.

I have an i3-3225 and rx480

u/raj_prakash · 6 pointsr/hardwareswap

You can buy those two drives, BNIB, 2 day Prime shipping, for $82 total. Consider adjusting your asking price.

u/AwayToHit · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Forget this deal everyone. The Crucial MX300 525GB is $112.99 on atm!

Shoutouts to u/nottz10k

EDIT: The crucial deal expired.

u/s97thli · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/buzzpunk · 5 pointsr/Games

If you've got amazon prime you can get this 240GB Sandisk ssd for £30.

u/ag11600 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

According to CamelCamelCamel it was much lower about 1 year ago. However, this increase could be due to the shortage of memory.

u/Fenrir-The-Wolf · 5 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

16GB of DDR4 does not cost ~60-90$. Especially at 3000mhz.

2x8GB 3000mhz sticks of Corsair Vengance LPX is currently $195, A 525GB SSD is currently $130.

u/jkccl9 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

cheaper on amazon XD gg


u/twest21 · 5 pointsr/homelab

Crucial mx300 525GB for $109. Not sure if it's the best thing for homelabs but looks to be a good deal.


I submitted it to Amazon, now it's the same price there with prime.

u/Moose_Mafia · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I'd recommend the Crucial MX300 525GB. It's $123 when not on sale, for a substantial amount of space.

Samsung is nice, but you're paying a large premium for the name. The other brands recommend are good too, but the Crucial is my personal favorite.

u/Vvanderfell · 5 pointsr/Amd

I've had this board for a couple weeks, so I'll give you a quick review if you're interested.

Some context : I got this board initially because I'm obsessed with smaller form-factor builds, didn't need WiFi, and completely understood Biostar's reputation among enthusiasts, but I didn't want to wait for ASRock, MSI, or the other brands. As much I would have liked a board that had a stronger looking VRM and such, I really didn't want to wait around for the expected release date of those boards only to find they're not coming for another month or something.

Here is my build : R7 1700, 32GB (16x2) Ballistix RAM, 1 M.2 SSD, 4x sata SSDs, GTX 1070, and a 600w PSU. ( <- links if you're interested in specifics)

Anyways, onto the board. Initial impressions were pretty good. Nothing looked cheap except the IO plate which is just a sheet of metal, but that doesn't bother me. What DID bother me was the audio jacks were blocked on the IO plate, so you have to remove bits to make it fit. Getting the prongs to line up properly was a bit of a hassle, too, but not the worst experience I've had with an IO shield.

Everything on the board looked pretty sound. It came with 4x sata cables, and that's about it. Setup couldn't have been easier. I plugged everything in and it booted up with no issues. This board (for me) does however have anywhere from a 5-10 second black screen before reaching the bios every single time. Not really sure what that's about. Also, with raid enabled, the bios will flash for a moment, show the raid console deal, then go back to the bios before booting completely.

I used a Samsung 960 EVO (250GB) M.2 on the back, and it immediately recognized it without any driver fuss. Has been working exceptionally. I have a raid 0 set up in the bios for my 4 other drives hooked into the sata ports. I had no fuss getting an image from my graphics card on the initial boot. Everything just worked.

The bios. It's not exactly sparse considering it's a cheap board, and it's a Biostar, but it's very vague about what everything does. Setting some things up was a bit of a hassle because the lack of documentation and the unhelpful descriptions on the right-hand side. Getting it into raid mode was easy, but fan control is still a bit of a mystery to me, and the overclocking didn't make much sense until I did some research.

The fan control doesn't make much sense in the bios. First off, the fans default to having PWM control off, so both headers will be running at 100% on first boot (which I'm actually glad they do). Manual control doesn't make a whole lot of sense. It gives you a min and max C for different fan speeds, but setting the fan speeds is a bit different. There is a lower percentage (?) speed, and... "speed sensitivity"? I don't know what it means, but manual mode hasn't yielded any results that I could make sense of. I've only messed with it a couple times, but I really don't know what I'm doing in that regard. If anyone has any experience with that, I'd love to hear from you.

Overclocking was a mystery to me for a while. There is no core multiplier settings on the first screen for OC tweaking, and the voltages work with an offset instead of a set value. Eventually I figured out the only real option is to set a P-state overclock (which I like, personally). The catch is, when you enable the P-state overclock, the only value you can change is the core multiplier. If you change the set voltage, it will default to what I assume is a lower P-state. When trying to set my own voltage, it wouldn't run any higher than 2.7GHz. After setting the core clock, you have to back out of the P-state settings and add voltage via the +vcore voltage offset instead. Another note, the P-state overclock is only for P0, I believe.

RAM overclocking seems fine. I haven't touched it hardly at all, but my 2400GHz RAM went up to 2667GHz without any extra voltage. The bios allows you to set timings, and the voltage offset for the RAM and SOC.

Windows setup was a little bit of a mess at first. After the fresh install, it kept crashing after 5-10~ minutes of use, and the only thing that fixed it was eventually making it long enough to install Windows updates (had to do error correction along the way because of a couple failed installs... slow internet is to blame). I think that is more of a Ryzen and Windows thing than it is the board's fault.

I've been running it at ~3.9 @ 1.38V on my 1700 for a couple weeks now. Trying to push it any further past 3.9 just isn't working for me. Not sure if that is a power limit of the 4-pin, or maybe the power delivery just isn't up to it? Maybe my CPU just doesn't like it? Either way, I'm quite happy even reaching 3.9 on my chip, and I'm even more impressed that the board has kept up with it so far.

Hmm... basic stuff. No WiFi, ethernet hasn't given me any issues, IO could maybe use an extra USB port here or there, but it's been enough for me. I'm very glad to see USB-C on there, but I haven't used it just yet. I haven't used the sound card at all. If that is a big factor for you, I can't really say how good it is. I have a DAC/AMP, and my phones definitely cannot be appropriately driven by the built in, so I can't say whether or not it's decent. If you want, I can borrow some other headphones from someone and try it out, but otherwise, not sure what else to say. I'm pretty happy with this little guy. Impressed, even.

If you have any questions, let me know!

EDIT : Added links to parts. Also here is my CPU-Z validation.

u/olbaze · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

m.2 is a form factor, in itself it doesn't give you any kind of performance boost. If it's higher write/read speeds that you want, you're thinking of PCI-E SSDs. Those come in two variants, one being a PCI-E card kind of affair, such as Intel 750 series. The other form factor is M.2. Note that being an M.2 SSD is not the same as being a PCI-E SSD, there are also M.2 form factor SATA SSDs.

If you want the top speeds, you'll want an NVMe SSD. For these, Samsung 960 EVO is a popular choice. Cheaper, but with slightly less performance, you can get a Western Digital Black SSD.. If it's just the form factor you're after, go for something like Crucial MX300.

u/SleepMyLittleOnes · 5 pointsr/osx

I can confirm that the new High Sierra public beta nvme support works for booting and running a Samsung 960 EVO nvme drive in my 2015 Macbook Air. It requires a sintech adapter or clone (amazon) which are made to make the 80 mm m.2 ssd fit exactly into the original apple ssd space. Replacing the drive requires a 1.2mm penetalope screwdriver AND a T4/T5 torx. If you look around amazon you may find something that has both.

You will need to make a time machine backup to an external drive and also have room to put the high sierra installer on another usb drive to install it on the ssd.

During installation you will need to format the empty SSD to an apple readable format using disk utils, then you can install High Sierra on the drive. Transfer your information

Total cost: $155

Total time: ~8.5 Hours ( ~4 hours to make time machine backup, ~ 30 minutes to swap the drive. ~1 hour to install High Sierra, ~ 3 hours to restore from backup)

Happy Hacking!


I started getting kernal panics in the nvme driver today when I put the air to sleep. I will do some digging to see if there is a fix.

u/sleepyboylol · 5 pointsr/MonsterHunter

> Cool. I'll be sure to let everyone know to drop $500 on one to fix the issue Capcom created.

$54.99 CAD

Little bit off there pal. ^^^Actually ^^^you’re ^^^off ^^^by ^^^$450

> You're absolutely right; Tempered Elder Hunter World, or more recently, Tempered Jho Hunter World, starts after the terribly implemented story.

Actually, I spend a lot of time theory crafting builds, trying new weapons, and messing around. Tempered Elder farming is just how you get Stream Stones, but, if that’s all you care about, that’s your problem not Capcom’s. MH games have never been super story driven like Zelda, and it’s not an MMORPG. Be happy the game doesnt end after the story like 99% of RPG’s. At least you can play until HR999. They also have events, weekly and limited bounties and new weapons, monsters and armour being released for free.

u/SgtAlien · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Most programs and windows. Not games so much. Heres a 500gb SSD that doesn't completely break the bank.

u/Integralds · 5 pointsr/neoliberal

If it's a 2.5-inch drive, the MX500 is the best. I have three of them.

It it's an M.2 slot, then perhaps the Intel 660p. I have one of these.

u/angelar_ · 5 pointsr/GirlGamers

From what I can see, the Samsung 860 SSDs tend to run a bit higher cost wise than the Crucial MX 500GB ones. In fact, Crucial has a PCI-e SSD that's basically the same price as the Samsung 860, which would have substantially faster data transfer rate than the SATA SSDs if your motherboard has a PCI-e slot available for it (which it seems like the one you picked has plenty.)

u/popsicklekid · 5 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

Linked is what i got about a month ago. Works fine, and seemed reasonably priced when I researched SSDs.

Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)

u/whale-tail · 5 pointsr/mac

I'm talking about an internal SSD. The 2.5" models use what's called a SATA connector (the same type your current hard drive should use). Using it through USB will not only be much slower, but also mean that you have to carry around the external storage which is a pain in the ass.

The best way to think about SSDs is that they're basically really fast hard drives with no moving parts. They're just better in every way, and in this day and age it's hard to be without one.

Edit: here is what I'm talking about when I say internal 2.5" SSD.

u/PalebloodSky · 5 pointsr/nvidia

OP get yourself an M.2 NVMe drive. It won't take up any space and is a massive performance improvement from those HDDs. A rig with those specs has gotta be running off m.2:

Top 3 "very good / better / best" choices:

u/psycmb · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I picked up the Sabrent Rocket 1TB for £99 from Amazon yesterday (there was an auto voucher applied to take it down from £117)

It's not QLC from what I understand and performs better. Obviously I've not tested yet but I was looking at similar options to yourself and came to this.

u/lugia2142 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Isn't it already $59.99 on Amazon? actually wait... its $0.99 more but you get Far Cry 4. $0.99 for Far Cry 4 is a great deal.

u/SaneBRZ · 5 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

For the T440s? I would go with following upgrades:

  • Display: 14.0" FHD IPS
  • Rear battery: ThinkPad Battery 6 cell Li-Ion (72Wh) Cyl HC Rear
  • Wireless: Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260AC with Bluetooth 4.0

    Everything else stock. If you don't need 10 to 12 hours of battery life, you can go for a smaller battery. The 6 cell rear battery will stick out of the bottom. I don't know if you want that. Then I would buy a 4 GB RAM module and a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO and stick it in instead of the HDD. The prices right now on the 840 EVO series from Samsung are crazy.
u/fidepus · 5 pointsr/mac

It is absolutely worth it. I have an early 2011 MBP and the speed bump from switching to an SSD was enormous. I can't recommend it enough.

If you are looking for hardware suggestions, look at the Samsung 840 Evo. I have it, some people I know have one, we all are satisfied and it seems to give you lots of bang for the buck.

u/skybike · 5 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I got the Crucial MX100 256GB when it was on sale for $109.99. If there's no rush, I would recommend waiting for a better brand name to go on sale like that again.

Been using the MX100 for about a week now and it's fantastic, cloned my OS/Apps from my HDD and everything works like a charm.

u/TrustMeImALawStudent · 5 pointsr/mac

Get a SSD. There really is no reason to install a normal HDD anymore because SSDs have gotten so cheap. I got this Crucial MX100. It was literally plug and play for me on my 2012 MBP. There was no need to update any firmware, and this particular SSD is great. It performs near the level of the Samsung 840 EVO while being quite cheaper. After installing the SSD, my MBP was given new life. It is much snappier now making me realize that the slow 5400 rpm HDD was a huge bottleneck to begin with.

u/Gyang193 · 5 pointsr/pathofexile

this game has long been Pay2Win.

invest in an SSD and youll play the game much better.

u/pizzaazzip · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

Lets look at the Dell Optiplex GX280 Full Tower. According to CNet it came out June of 2004 so lets just pretend that was ten years ago instead of eleven. My parents bought a Dell Dimensions 8300 sometime around 2003 which had two SATA ports on the motherboard (The hard drive and CD drive were IDE) but since I never got it to work, I'll skip to the all SATA model. This is what I would do to determine the reasonable upgrade cost.

  • The Intel Socket is LGA775 so I would need to determine the fastest processor for that socket. That being said, just because a processor fits on the motherboard does not mean that it will work.

  • This computer has 4 DIMMS for RAM so I would want to max that out. Since all of the GX280s I have used were 32-bit systems (some pentium processors around this time were 64-bit but lets just assume that isn't the case), I would assume 4GiB is the max.

  • A decent 256GiB SSD would probably do the job. If they need more storage, it can be added after the fact. I assume if they have been using a 10 year old computer and the thing probably came with a 150GiB drive they should be fine with the 256.

  • Windows XP is end of life now so a Windows 7 license would be needed.

  • Since drivers on Windows 7 for the GX280 are a bit hard to find, you may need to get an discrete graphics card if one is not in there already. I found unsigned Windows 7 video drivers once but they really didn't work all that well. I want to say if you need the serial port too, you might be out of luck unless you come up with a different solution.

    So here are all the cost estimates.

  • $109.99(Free Shipping)Crucial MX100. I have had a lot of luck with Crucial products so this would be the one I would buy because of that.

  • $24.60(Free Shipping)A-Tech 184Pin 400MHz PC3200 RAM (We're going to need two of these so I doubled the price). According to this forum and the specs sheet the max for the full tower is 4GB. Normally I go with brands I have heard of but I wasn't seeing good buying options for those so I went with A-Tech.

  • $15.99(Free Shipping)SL7Z3. According to this forum post the fastest process is the Prescott P4 clocked at 3.8GHz. According to Intel's site it is 64-Bit compatible so that is something.

  • $76.98(Free Shipping) Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit SP1. I was reading somewhere (I can't find the link now) that drivers are a mess and just because the processor supports 64-bit does not mean the entire system would. It might be safer to get the same thing but in 32-Bit

  • $33.99(Amazon prime shipping) GeForce 8400 graphics card. Just in case you needed an graphics card if the drivers don't pan out.

  • $34.99(Amazon Prime shipping) Antec 450 Watt Power Supply. This also may be strenuous. The graphics card says to have at least a 350 Watt power supply. Since the full tower 280 comes with a 305 Watt I would imagine it would be a good idea to up the supply a bit.

    Total Cost = 296.54 with all extra costs added. Someone not as throughout as myself can cut costs on a lot of the things on this list. I would show this breakdown to the customer and explain why it might be more cost efficient to purchase a new machine (or have me build them one) and we could go from there.
u/hwtrend · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This , SSD with normal HDD for storage is much better . I would recommend the Sandisk 120GB though .

u/epicmud7 · 5 pointsr/G502MasterRace

Not as much as they used to be. You can get a 120GB one for under $50
If you only got 8GB of RAM and a 1TB HDD, that should pay for it. You could always just get one later, but that would involve having to reinstall your OS and move everything over which can be a bit of a hassle.

u/HeckMaster9 · 5 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

You don't need to spend that much. This Sandisk 240GB model along with this SATA III to USB 3 cable will do just as well for less money, but it won't look as pretty lol.

u/coololly · 5 pointsr/buildapc

970 Evo Plus' are stupidly overpriced.

For context, you can get a 1TB Sabrent Rocket which performs basically identical for half the price of a 1TB 970 evo plus.

u/rallymax · 5 pointsr/buildapc

m.2 is just a socket. It's preferrable to 2.5" since it doesn't involve any wires.

M.2 can run both SATA or NVME SSDs. Sabrent Rocket is inexpensive M.2 NVME that's within price of many SATA SSDs. However, to answer your question - for playing video games SATA SSD to NVME SSD is not as much of improvement as HDD to SSD.

u/Hrhnick · 5 pointsr/mac

Yes. And while you’re upgrading grab this 240GB SSD for $33:

Your computer will feel like a new machine.

u/FAERayo · 5 pointsr/starcitizen

Oh cmon... ssd cost are near 50€ for a 240GB more than decent ssd, it doesnt need to be the best neither the highest amount.


Since you talk in L, i'll send you uk link for 43 Pounds:


With this, any argument against the ssd is automatically overkilled.


It's like saying no game should be developed with only HDD's in mid. or no game should be developed with GTX 1060 in mind, they should be playable with a Nvidia gt 9600 from 2005.


Btw: You don't need SSD, it's recommended SSD because the loading time will get long, pretty much like GTA V case.

u/The-Ephus · 5 pointsr/hardwareswap

I mean... is $18 too much?

u/Hycinos · 5 pointsr/laptops

Vivo books are great for your use case. Only downside of this one is no SSD, but you could always get a 128gb one for $40 to replace the hard drive if you want the load speed and don’t need the space. If you do that route to get faster load times, you could just use the included 1tb HDD as an external drive for any photoshop files that get too big.

ASUS VivoBook F510UA 15.6” Full HD Nanoedge Laptop, Intel Core i5-8250U Processor, 8GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD, USB-C, Fingerprint, Windows 10 Home - F510UA-AH51, Star Gray

Edit: jk, SSDs are cheaper than I thought right now, you can get a 128 for $21

Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance

u/agentbilly · 5 pointsr/PS3

If you haven't looked at prices lately SSDs are not expensive at all anymore. You can get an entry level120gb for $20.

Kingston 120GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/120G

u/spanctimony · 5 pointsr/PFSENSE

You'd be a fool to not use two of these with ZFS:

Downvoted? Ok have fun when your flash stick fails. For $50 you could have redundant SSDs.

u/JasonHenley · 5 pointsr/computerhelp

Your motherboard does not have an M.2 slot on it.

You can buy a PCI-E x4 M.2 adapter that fits the 500GB Samsung EVO 970 plus (like this one, but it requires a PCI-E x4 slot.

Your motherboard has four PCI-E x1 slots (won't fit) and two PCI-E x16 slots (it will fit in this slot but only if you have one free -- i.e. you don't have two video cards).

If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, consider getting a regular old boring SATA III SSD. True, they aren't as fast as NVMe SSDs, but this is $30 cheaper ( and for gaming you actually won't notice much of a difference compared to the NVMe drive you spec'ed. NVMe gives you bigger performance boosts when reading/writing large blocks of sequential data, so for example video editing. Source:

u/YouBetterChill · 5 pointsr/mac
u/Purity999 · 5 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

This is what I picked up from Amazon, works amazing! Just plug it in, transfer D2 over, bye bye loading times!

Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5...

ORICO 2.5 USB 3 External Hard...

My brother did the same thing expect he got this SSD.

Silicon Power 512GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP512GBSS3A55S25)

u/maddenman2000 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you do need a new SSD you'd be better off getting 1TB instead:

Samsung has the 860 EVO M.2 1TB for the same price as two of these.

Same with Microcenter (in-store only) but with the SATA III version.

Amazon for $168.

To be honest, you might as well wait two months for Black Friday. Chances are if they're this low now, especially given how many places have them on sale for this price, it'll be much cheaper on Black Friday.

u/chilighost · 5 pointsr/PS4Pro

I installed the Samsung 860 EVO 1TB and it's been great. Seems very fast to me.


Samsung 860 EVO 1TB

u/OSX2000 · 4 pointsr/mac

They're all over Amazon.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168

Crucial MX500 1TB - $160

WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150

SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160

u/EnglishKidChin · 4 pointsr/playstation

Yes any 2.5”. The real question is why that drive ... it looks pretty crappy. You can afford a pro then why cheapen the experience.

Get this one...

u/RicoViking9000 · 4 pointsr/Dell

Samsung 860 Evo. Probably the best sata SSD. Choose your size.

If you want to save a bit of money, search 'Crucial MX500.' You won't notice the performance difference in real use, it's within 5% of the samsung

u/gregz83 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can try removing 3rd party programs (monitors, boosters, etc.)

In a more extreme case you can try doing a Windows 10 Refresh, which will remove any bloatware running under the hood:

Even though you said otherwise, I will tell you anyway that most people are going to look at that 5400RPM game drive and point to that has the culprit:

u/Golden_Lynel · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

500 GB Samsung SSD for $70

1 TB Samsung SSD for $140

And those are name-brand prices.

u/TheRealTormDK · 4 pointsr/AnthemTheGame

No offense, but that is crazy talk.


An SSD (well, technically you should go for nvme these days, as there is little price difference) is the single most performance boosting thing you can do for your computer if you really use a 7200RPM platter disk in 2019, in terms of overall performance.


Spend those 250$ on something like this; - you can thank me later.

u/dirtyunclechris · 4 pointsr/buildapc

What I would do:

u/demetrilovesreddit · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here's my chat log. TL;DR it comes with the game code

04:21 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Hello there! My name is Marc. I hope you are doing well in this beautiful day! I will do my best to assist you with your concern.
04:21 PM PST Demetri: Hi Marc
04:22 PM PST Demetri: I was looking at the Samsung 120gb SSD that is advertised with the promotion for Far Cry 4
And just wanted to ask if this ssd for sure comes with this code or not
04:22 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Can you send me a link to that promotion so that I can check?
04:22 PM PST Demetri:
04:23 PM PST Demetri: Honestly, I've been on reddit seeing that some people are claiming they have spoken to one of you guys and you confirm that this deal is real
and some have said it doesnt qualify
04:24 PM PST Marc(Amazon): It does qualify Demetri. The download code will be emailed to you when the item will be shipped.
04:25 PM PST Marc(Amazon): To receive the Bonus with Purchase:

  1. Add qualifying products described in the promotion to your Shopping Cart via the “Add to Shopping Cart” button.

  2. After your item ships, we will send you an e-mail with the game download redemption code for Far Cry 4 within 5-7 business days with instructions to redeem.
    04:25 PM PST Demetri: And we're for sure talking about the 120gb sized ssd, correct?
    04:26 PM PST Marc(Amazon): Yes, the item that you are looking right now.
    04:26 PM PST Demetri: Okay, thank you so much Marc! Thats all the questions I have.
    04:27 PM PST Marc(Amazon): You're welcome. Just follow the instructions on how to place the order so that you will be able to take advantage of the promo.
    To receive the Bonus with Purchase:

  3. Add qualifying products described in the promotion to your Shopping Cart via the “Add to Shopping Cart” button.

  4. After your item ships, we will send you an e-mail with the game download redemption code for Far Cry 4 within 5-7 business days with instructions to redeem
u/ItzVegaZ · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get SSD for windows and 1TB HDD for rest.

u/ohhh_maaan · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Hey man, I don't know much about the SanDisk Extreme II 240GB that's listed there for 139.99, but I know Samsung SSDs are usually highly recommended here and on /r/buildapc. Its on sale right now for the same rate here . If that's your price range, I'd recommend going for that. I got mine last year for $180 and its worth every goddamn cent. Plus the Samsung Magician software that comes with it is pretty sweet.

u/tildes · 4 pointsr/RPI

$119.99 on amazon

Will probably be even cheaper on Black Friday / Cyber Monday...

u/accostedbyhippies · 4 pointsr/buildapc

The only thing I've picked up is this SSD from Amazon (comes with FC4!)

u/darkworldaudio · 4 pointsr/Reaper

Reaper doesn't have any system requirements as such, if your device can run an OS, it can run Reaper, that's basically it.

The better the processor you have the more plugins and effects you can use. The more RAM you have the more plugins you can load in or libraries you can use at the same time. If you can get hold of an audio interface it will give you an improved latency.

Might need to aim for a used laptop so check gumtree and such. Go for as fast a processor as possible with multiple cores, as much RAM as you can get, and ideally an SSD drive.

To give you and idea I picked up a used dual-core laptop with 4 GB Ram for ~£150 and installed a new 60GB SSD [£40 at the time] into it, something like this. I only use it for mic recording via Reaper and watching The Simpsons, but I'm certain it can handle a view plugins and some MIDI.

u/Synux · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Check out Crucial.

Same size as your existing HDD but instead of 5400 RPM you'll have SSD performance. Crucial is well-regarded and you're going to see a huge improvement in performance. Boot time, app start-up/shut-down, game load time, etc. All will be better.

If you're serious about doing it right you'll do a fresh install of Windows in case you're harboring something on your existing setup. If not, a clone will be OK too.

u/MasterRen · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Also available on Amazon for $120.

u/hexparrot · 4 pointsr/simracing

Buy an SSD. Shop around and find something cheap, but for the most part, something that will cover Win7 or Win10 and your most anticipated sims.

We don't know anything else about that machine, e.g., amount of ram, etc., and based on it being a Win7 system to start, it probably could do for more of that too. That said, it's practically impossible to provide a good roadmap of getting a simracing-ready pc with no little knowledge of the actual system and your budget.

I'm also hesitant to think you got a "gaming pc" if they were using it for 3d scanning software...but you're going to instead rely on a gtx750 you just were given. That is, I wouldn't call any system with a gfx card weaker than a 750 a gaming pc.

Check out /r/buildapc, too, and be sure to let people know how much money you can put into it; they might have more combined expertise to get you up and running.

u/Melbuf · 4 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

you can get a 1 TB SSD for under 150. 2 TBs are between 3-400

where are you getting those numbers?

Shit 2 TB 850 EVO is under 300

u/daddy_fizz · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

One of the drives based off the reference phison E12 design like sabrent rocket or silicon power p34a80

TLC nand (not qlc like 660)

Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB)


u/mspk7305 · 4 pointsr/KerbalSpaceProgram

I recently swapped from a single SATA3 physical disc to a pair of SATA3 solid state discs ( in RAID0. KSP load time did not change much, seems to be processor bound rather than memory or IO bound.

Other apps load incredibly fast. Especially warcraft.

u/Conpen · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I noticed you didn't mention an SSD. You will absolutely need to get one of those, these days there's no excuse not to with a budget of $1k. I would recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I have the older 840 and I've recommended Evos for both my friend's recent builds, they've had no issues with them at all so far.

I would install your OS and a couple most-played games on the SSD. Make sure to move your documents and temp folder to the HDD. Don't forget to install whatever programs you use on the secondary drives because the SSD will fill up fast if you don't.

Other than that, this is a strong build. Others here will be able to give better recommendations on any changes to the Mobo/CPU, but the most important thing would be the SSD.

u/pervin_1 · 4 pointsr/hardwareswap

Samsung 970 EVO 500GB is only $90 from Amazon. GLWS!

u/NicknameInCollege · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Wow! There is currently a deal for the 500GB version on Amazon for $147.99 but the 1TB version is $354!


So go to Amazon if you're looking for the 500GB, but go to Newegg if you want the 1TB

u/socokid · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

SSDs are cheap now, so no...

u/ReipasTietokonePoju · 4 pointsr/cinematography

You can, but if you want to use for example 960 gig SSD, it probably has to be the same one that Red uses.

There is NO technical reason for this, but they most likely detect the SSD firmware version / SSD manufacturer for the drive and then artificially prevent other SSD drives running.

Currently 960 GB Red Mini-Mag costs about 2500 dollars.
While at the same time:

... you can get same size SSD drive for 100 dollars. So only about 24X (!!!) markup from Red. And that 100 dollar SSD has at least 10 times faster write speed.

u/construktz · 4 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I'd say get an ASUS N550JK and put a Samsung 840 Evo into it. You'd have a really high quality multimedia laptop with a beautiful IPS display, a quad-core i7, 8GB RAM, and a fast SSD for well under budget.

If you want more portability and a higher res display with more RAM and battery life, the Dell XPS 15 is also right up your alley. It weighs only 4.4lbs, is .7" thin, and can get up to 11 hours of battery life. It has a 512GB SSD and 16GB RAM with a 15.6" 3200x1800 IPS display.

u/LastBreeze · 4 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

15.6" Suggestions| Lenovo U530 59428052| Lenovo U530 59428053| Lenovo Flex 2 15 ^Signature ^Edition | Dell Inspiron I7547-3020SLV | ASUS Transformer Book Flip TP500L | ASUS N550JK ^suggested ^by ^construktz
CPU| i7-4510U | i7-4510U | i7-4510U | i5-4210U| i5-4210U | i7-4700HQ
GPU| Intel 4400 | Nvidia GT 730M ^(can play most games on low settings) | Intel 4400| Intel 4400| Intel 4400 | Nvidia GTX 850M
Passmark CPU Mark | 3969 | 3969 | 3969 | 3422 | 3422 | 7906
storage | 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD | 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD| 500GB HDD + 8GB SSD | 1TB HDD| 1TB HDD | 1TB HDD
ram | 8GB| 8GB | 8GB| 6GB| 8GB | 8GB
battery | ^Can't ^find ^any ^review-based ^battery ^life, ^should ^be ^slightly ^more ^than ^the ^730M ^GPU ^version| 8hr | 4hr | 6hr customer claim | 4-5hr Amazon Customer Reviews | 3hr Amazon Customer Review
weight | 5.07lbs| 5.07lbs | 5.59lbs| 4.5lbs| 4.95lbs | 6lbs
screen | 1920x1080 touch| 1920x1080 touch | 1920x1080 IPS touch| 1920x1080 IPS touch | 1920x1080 touch | 1920x1080 IPS
price | 839| 899 | 699.99| 649.99 | 629.99 Amazon or 699.99 ^(Signature ^Edition) | 929

My suggestion would be the Dell Inspiron I7547-3020SLV. A 15.6" laptop at 649.99 that has an IPS display for great viewing angles and color. 4.5lbs and 6hr of battery life fit your needs.

If you'd like longer battery life and more portability:

13.3" Suggestions | MacBook Air 13.3 i5 2014 (Refurbished) | ASUS VivoBook Q301LA| ASUS TP300LA ^Signature ^Edition
CPU | i5-4260U | i5-4200U | i5-4210U
Passmark CPU Mark| 3640 | 3292| 3422
storage | 128GB SSD | 500GB HDD| 500GB HDD
ram | 4GB| 6GB | 8GB
battery | 12hr 20min | 5hr 38min| 6hr
weight | 2.96lbs | 3.8lbs| 3.92lbs
screen | 1440x900| 1366x768 touch| 1920x1080 IPS touch
price | 849.99 | 599.99| 699.99

"The reason is Apple has a really great refurbishment process and policy: Refurbs come with a new outer shell, new battery, and the same one-year warranty that new hardware comes with." And install Windows on it if you like (would probably shorten battery life but with 12h20m it can't be too bad). The 128GB SSD would hold a few programs and externals are down to 59.99 for 1TB and at 5.4oz/.34lb you could (gently) toss one into your laptop bag.

Microsoft Store Signature Edition means zero bloatware.

Each specification cites its source with a link (which will usually lead you to a review) unless that source is the product link (at the top of the chart).

This article was helpful Ultrabook Review: Best ultrabooks under $800 (or $1000) in 2014

A HDD can be the bottleneck of any computer. If you end up with a HDD laptop and find it to be slow, you may want to switch out the HDD for a SDD like this 256GB for $109 or 512GB for $189. Or get a hybrid hdd+sdd drive like this TOSHIBA MQ01ABD100H 1TB+8GB for $84.

edit: formatting

u/Fozzy420 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Other specs:
-PC itself is a pre-built(Don't kill me. I got a great deal) MSI Aegis 3
-2x Asus monitors Asus MG248Q and Asus VX238H
-240GB SSD
-Headset is a Logitech G430 that I've swapped the earpads with these
-Razer Deathadder Elite
-Keyboard is MSI Interceptor 4200 (came with the PC, planning on upgrading)

u/invx · 4 pointsr/hardware

so how many exactly? what system would actually profit by this? oems cut costs for every cent. the new optane is ~77$ for 32gb. that already gets you a 240gb ssd (

add a 1tb drive to that for around ~50 and you can already go for a 500gb ssd main drive. it makes absolutely no sense in a consumer world at all.

u/Artesian · 4 pointsr/buildapc

SanDisk as a brand isn't bad, but COULD BE better. See if you can spring for a Samsung drive. It's not like it's C or D tier, but Sandisk isn't A tier that's for sure. The MSI board you've chosen is probably fine; but we've seen some issues with reliability over time - especially with the more budget-focused sub 100 dollar boards.

GPU is a bargain. Great cooling on it. Phanteks is kicking butt in the case market these days. Corsair always amazing -- BUT their TXM line is NOT high quality. It's built by a third party manufacturer last I checked.

See if you can spring for an EVGA G3. Worlds better quality.

u/CSnek · 4 pointsr/bapccanada

First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).

You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.

There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.

If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.

In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.

TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.

Hope this helps!

u/scorcher117 · 4 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Is £69 a good price for a 500GB SSD? this is one part that I've never looked into.

Yeah I just searched 500GB SSD on amazon and found another for £63 and a 480GB SSD for £55, this price doesn't seem special, is there something I'm missing?

u/dustojnikhummer · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Highest capacity one you can afford. Crucial MX series are known to be awesome and relatively cheap

1TB models are quite a bit more expensive tho.

u/FenixOokami · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I have a few thoughts on this build so I will go through the list you have :)

CPU - For a budget gaming build, this is an excellent choice! And when you do get a dedicated graphics card, you'll have the extra CPU power over the Ryzen 3 model if you need it.

Motherboard - I'm a fan of ASRock, though DO NOT GET THIS MOTHERBOARD. Because it does not include video outputs, making it completely useless without a graphics card to connect to a monitor. This ASRock motherboard also only has 2 slots for RAM, so you'd have to completely replace them if you want to upgrade to 16 GB (8 GB of ram is sufficient for about 90% games, though the newer ones will be using most of it). I would recommend:
As it has built-in video output and 4 slots for RAM.

RAM - As I said, 8GB will be plenty for a vast majority of games. Though, as some others have commented, you really do need faster RAM at the 3000hz + range to truly take advantage of your APU since it does not have built-in memory like graphics cards do and will be relying on your system memory.

Storage - If you want Samsung, get Samsung. If you just want an SSD, I recommend:
Since it is both newer, $25 cheaper, and performs practically the same.

Case this is entirely up to you. Go with what you want! :)

Power supply 550W is plenty for whatever you will throw at your build.

u/farewelltokings2 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Buy this Samsung 960 M.2 SDD if you really love her

Having the OS on an SSD is a must on a modern system. An HDD can make even the most powerful systems feel old and sluggish. An SSD will make even the most underpowered systems feel new and snappy. The M.2 interface is then that much better than a standard SSD. And they are cheap.

u/Fanu12 · 4 pointsr/totalwar

30usd for 240GB SSD is not expensive (or 18usd for 120gb model)

yes, if you need more storage, go with HDD - but dont then complain how games load slower on it

SSDs even ship on cheapest laptops now, I'd consider them standard

u/theriotr · 4 pointsr/homelab

So this won't meet all of your requirements; but if Cheap is #1; then it might be a workable solution.


The HP Microserver is about the size of a toaster, standing up on it's end - so it's space efficient & uses AMD's Mobile processors for reduced power requriements: Pairing that with a couple of half height INTEL nics and a cheap SSD, I had PFsense up and running in under an hour. My internet speeds are about the same as what you quoted above. As far as build time, it took me longer to open up the microserver than it did to install the software; and then learning PFSense has been an adventure; but it sounds like you're already familiar with that. The microserver has an onboard NIC, if you add the two Intel half-heights you can support a local network +DMZ in whatever flavor you want. Sounds like you might need those to be SFPs - but if you can reuse the ones from your old Firewall it might be a workable solution.


For the parts below your looking at about $130.00 - maybe less if you have an old SSD laying around? or opt to use an older hard drive?


This is what I bought:




u/mini4x · 4 pointsr/windows

If you have the means my suggestion would be buy an SSD and reinstall Win 10 on that. Even a budget SSD sill smoke those Barracudas.

I don't know anything about this drive but Kingston is typically a 1/2 decent brand and this is cheap.

At the end of the day you're still rocking at a 10 year old PC though, s results may vary.

u/lightinthedark · 4 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I got a 120gb Kingston for $28 Canadian back in February on Amazon. You'll probably have to wait for sales, but it shouldn't be too hard. Especially with black friday/cyber Monday coming up. I've seen the same drive I got for $19.99 CAD a couple times since, too.

Keep an eye on /r/buildapcsales

This is the one I got. The regular price is now $30 CAD:

This is the enclosure if interested:

u/T3X4SBORN · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

Or just go to USB with Hassbian or Raspbian w/ Hassio installed.

This $25 setup for a reliable SSD is what I recommend.

Kingston 120GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/120G

USB 2.0 to SATA 7+15 Pin 22Pin Adapter Cable For 2.5" HDD Hard Disk Drive by BLUECELL

u/BlurryEyed · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Picked up a Samsung Evo 960 M.2 250GB for ~$87 before tax

u/gotroar · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Hers an an adata for $29

ADATA SU635 240GB 3D-NAND QLC SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD (ASU635SS-240GQ-R)

I got this Kingston for $30 the other day but now it's $32

Kingston 240GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/240G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance

But Amazon has more options for $30

u/A_RED_BLUEBERRY · 3 pointsr/laptops

Do you have your data backed up? If so, using another computer and a USB flash drive, click here and download the media creation tool by clicking the "Download tool now" option. Plug in your USB flash drive and run the executable and follow the prompts, make sure you select the right version of Windows (probably 64 bit) and make sure you select the "USB flash drive" option, it will take a while to finish downloading everything onto the USB but once it's done. After it finishes, while your laptop is off, plug in the USB flash drive into your laptop and boot it up. After you press the power button start pressing your boot key repeatedly, it's different for every PC, it could either be delete, F10, or ESC. Once you're in BIOS, you'll have to select your USB as the primary boot device, then save and exit. You'll know you've done this correctly if you get to the Windows installation screen. Once you're there, there will be an option to "Repair this computer," click it and follow any prompts. If your installation of Windows is corrupted this should fix it.

If it still won't boot up your HDD is most likely causing the problem and should be replaced with an SSD. They can be found for dirt cheap on Amazon. I've personally used this one and can vouch for it, it's not the fastest SSD on the market but it gets the job done and you most likely won't notice the difference. However, this drive is 7mm thick and most 2.5" HDDs are 9.5mm thick. This can cause issues in some laptops so you might want to look for an SSD that is 9.5mm thick. If it comes to this, just install the SSD and boot from the USB drive like above but instead of repairing you'll be installing it normally.

u/energy_x_ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Marcqtp · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

> Unless you’re just getting it for a boot drive get the 240gb one for $30 on amazon.

Same price as Bestbuy actually, both are $29.99 but yes it's true given you're prime (& who isn't?), Amazon has free, 2-day shipping so definitely an advantage over Bestbuy's ~$5 standard 5-7 days shipping.

Either way, it's a steal... I remember just a year or so ago these were easily $300-400 drives..

u/KopfJ4ger · 3 pointsr/computers

Edit: Also, your current graphics card is not removed. I've drawn a box around it in red. It may not be functional, and it's certainly not worth using anymore, but it's there.

You don't need to factory reset it.

  • Download a windows installer and put it on a USB drive.
  • Buy a cheap SSD. This one is fine for $30.00
  • Disconnect the current hard-drive and connect the SSD instead.
  • Insert your USB and install windows. (you may have to change the boot priority from the BIOS, but it should boot the installer from the USB.
  • You should now have a usable Windows 10 computer. You don't even have to pay for Windows yet. If you're real budget conscious, you could try to extract the Windows key from your old hard-drive. I've done this successfully twice.
  • Browse r/hardwareswap until you find a GTX 1050ti for under $100. I saw one go for $75 3 days ago.
  • Install that.

    Now you have a perfectly fine gaming PC. You'd have to spend $500 to build something that will outperform this $100-$130 version.

    If you really don't want it, you can drop it off at my place. I'll put it to use. ;)
u/twitchtvtulegit · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Ay happy birthday kiddo!


This would be very helpful, thanks for contest :) Kingston SA400S37/240G SSD A400 240 GB Solid State Drive (2.5 Inch SATA 3)

u/Sol33t303 · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

If you don't need much space, you can get some really cheap SSDs, here is a $20 120 GB SSD on Amazon

u/MelvinLikesDucks · 3 pointsr/buildapc

(Sorry for formatting I’m on mobile)

I don’t know anything about intel so I’ll leave the cpu to someone else but here are some other parts that leave a decent budget for the cpu. Btw I just assumed that this is USD.

Cpu: byo

motherboard: (you can’t choose a motherboard without knowing the cpu sorry) make sure that you cpu is compatible AND works well with you motherboard aswell a quick google will solve that issue



Psu: you’ll have to do some wattage calculations inputting your pc parts into this website (tip: just ignore the sliders on the wattage calculator they will automatically adjust to the parts you choose) also regarding the wattage calculator get a power supply 50 watts or more over what it says and btw I would reccomend Corsair power supplies.

Case: choose whatever case you like best but make sure that it can fit your motherboard and other parts (e.g. a regular atx motherboard isn’t gonna fit into micro or atx mini itx case) it’s pretty easy to check just read the product descriptions for what size the motherboard is and what motherboard sizes the case supports.

Ignore sound cards unless you plan to use this pc for music production and ignore wifi cards unless you play games on wifi which I highly advise against.

Cpu cooler: unless you plan to overclock then the stock cooler is ugly but fine.

Storage: 120gb ssd (for operating system, google, game launchers, and fav games)

Storage 2: well you’ll have to decide on the amount for storage u need as there are different models from 1tb to 10tb again only get what u need. but for you price I reccomend:

Case fans: depending on the case you buy it may come with fans or not. Sometimes the seller say the case includes fans and they only include 1 or 2 I would reccommend 3 fans at least (2 at front 1 at the back) Corsair, NZXT, noctua, cooler master and thermaltake make good fans.

Note: idk if intel cpu’s Comes with thermal paste with it (wether it’s pre-applied like Ryzen or in a tube) but make sure you have thermal paste on hand

Sorry I couldn’t help with cpu and motherboard but I hope this helps good luck :)

u/Mongoly357 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You don't have to buy windows, if you have a USB installer you can run unactivated windows 10 until you want to get rid of the watermark. Everything looks good. The only thing I'd say is the addition of a cheap SSD would really fully flesh the build out to use as a boot drive. Really makes a difference on powering on and off the system. You might also be able to squeeze some games/apps depending on size into the drive and help with load times.

I might say something like this Kingston 120 gig for a boot drive to start off with for 20 bucks.

u/NightWolf105 · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

Is there any reason to really use a thumb drive?

SSDs are $20. Save yourself some headache.

u/stormbringer124 · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

not in the dell optiplex i got. OP make sure it is the full size dell optiplex or you're going to have a problem. I would probably pick up an old Dell optiplex computer from this link:!07306!US!-1&enc=AQAEAAACMBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU9ZIdJgyF8pGk0C1C%2BqLx3gjOL9sFDmIxM%2B8dIn5uhflsoVf4Sn56VDqF0kVV0GxatdRoSXI4ql7uqGkdfpEKUPpLOL8x4rD883YAi9fwSY%2F5xWJN7jevtKCFYVEyZjUsanWOsWL2vVw%2BSe5S3mE6WZthfmjzo4oOXdTNp6Z267ceEJnhg5o5ckhzHbIY9li%2B%2FgWtMUpVzVkKWRApm0s0EpgvYp0ZOnbkNhcDBw20%2FodA4bwPJ0YlEHyBzVuJQ6r60%2FNifuuO2f6aCbk5AJ2W2n6ogEmWrdQXJ8x4zukxsZmRIlONhVoF%2BHwBZ91TBuyQWTh44fMSdEfG93LbcIfblFam8VfUVxEicboMByRlHbrd%2BcpyisYdXCLw6F2X3IKR5Mpq%2FFPG3IhTqQDUpihYAZGEjH%2B4ZVhrAO8gf3rNhYjeOt5tYn%2FvuFs%2BiZ%2FyAj1G08Eo5DNXJahP8LtjsymQI7CGMdBId62EqH0SIEMDwj7d1N2szSFVSzJrAj15Wz0lczO1VywGMnmtfI5nsuwkMehJIgU9JoFq99lch%2FvBQcj8jVw21%2BuYdPLgSeNs8XMn3%2BeLVlarTj4Q5WonFXXmyDDOxvfRmfVU7w9FhIMEvheoUGJjijG1nWXzrscyWu9XYWuqJuiztcsGnUdNFj5FAss%2B8XvH3rbBl4k%2Frf4ycFyydxAk%2FvwnBqSkvJL93XPIYJOecMCivwo%2F8t%2BUQReIF&checksum=112899138773b342f6e3705940c6a123e59ad5cda30a

Total so far: $160


Then i would potentially buy an ssd from amazon(120gb):

Total so far: $180

Then i would buy a new power supply:

Total so far: $220

Then I would buy a used graphics card:

Total so far: $320

I know i've exceeded over your budget, but personally I think the performance degradation from not spending that extra 100 dollars is so drastic that I wouldn't recommend doing so.

u/meloveann · 3 pointsr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

120gb ssd is literally 20$ ( for anyone interested)

u/key134 · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

I know you said cheap, but how much are you willing to spend? What tends to make the older models very usable is putting an SSD in them. I find it more affordable to get an SSD and put it in a ThinkPad that came with no HDD. I often use the T61 that's sitting next to my couch, but for not a LOT more, you can probably get up to a T410 and at least then the screen will be LED and not CCFL (dims as it ages).

Like a T420s for $78 + an SSD for $28 + an AC adapter for $8 + a hard drive caddy for $6.

The part of that will go down in price with older models is the chassis itself, and not by a lot. Is that in the budget?

u/401klaser · 3 pointsr/mac

SSD + Ram

Cheap SSD


You can be at around $100 bucks for 8 gigs of ram + the SSD. Your computer will seem like a brand new machine with those upgrades.

u/MongolianTrojanHorse · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

You might want to consider getting a Dell PowerEdge T30. They frequently go on sale for a little over $300. They come with 8GB of ECC DDR4 and a comparable CPU to the one you selected.

You can find the deal on Slickdeals and sign up for alerts like this one:

Also, I'd recommend getting a separate SSD just for the OS. You can just get a cheap one for ~$30 like this:

u/SuPeRCaLiFaGaLiCiOuS · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You won't find MX500 that small, but MX500 is just one line of one brand of SSD.

Look, here's 120GB SSD and yes it will definitely breathe new life in an old computer:

But you need to install windows on the SSD for it to make it feel faster.

u/CaNyRpIt · 3 pointsr/htpc

Those components wont likely fit, but even if they did you wouldn't want to use such dated parts. I put together this NUC for my father recently. All he does is watch a lot of Youtube videos and surfs news websites. Here is a parts list you could consider:

Intel NUC $127

RAM $28

SSD $45

This doesn't include a copy of windows... which you can get license for off of various sources such as Kinguin for less than $40. Or if you're cool with it, there are various versions of linux which you can run for free.

u/catbingo · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You need specifically DDR3 RAM, and a max of 16GB of DDR3 RAM. Two 4GB sticks like this one should work.

Also, an SSD with a SATA connection from a reputable manufacturer, like this one should work. Since the computer is pretty old, I wouldn't bother putting any new high-end parts in it personally, and of course, even cheaper parts can be found on sites like eBay.

u/wm32d · 3 pointsr/AskUK

Hey - if you're up for saving money and doing a fun project, you could just flip a new SSD into your existing machine. Chances are a 2010 model is still perfectly fine for use for anything except games and scientific computation -- thanks to the laws of physics CPUs stopped evolving about a decade ago, PC industry does not like to advertise this fact!

Newer CPUs are more power efficient, better at computationally intensive stuff (more cores), or add features for more efficient.. again, heavy computation. For almost anything else there is zero point in a new build - Word and Excel do not avail of any of these features. As a developer (and non gamer), I'm on my 5th 2011 era Macbook.

Willing to bet £20 the only thing slow about your computer is the mechanical disk. Here's a Crucial MX500 for £90. Add £15 for a USB caddy to temporarily hold either the old or new drive, and a few hours to understand booting from DVD into a program that can clone the old disk over to the new one, a screwdriver you probably already own, a sense of pride that you just saved yourself a cool £1k, and entire family now thinks you're a computer genius :)

Add £20 for new keyboard+mouse, and £150 for a new screen if you want the thing to look the part

edit: oh, if it's a budget model, might want to look at flipping the RAM too. again, you're looking at around £120 for more than you'll ever need. Budget model might have only shipped with 2 or 4. The only thing more RAM will cause is less IO, but with an SSD IO gets way faster anyway, so you could skip this step, or do it as a separate project.

u/idiot247 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

It's slightly cheaper on

u/Vision3015 · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Everything looks great but I would get an ssd as an os boot drive and the hard drive for mass storage. It will make a huge difference in the responsiveness of your system.
Even on a budget I found this $30 250gb drive.

u/pb4000 · 3 pointsr/suggestapc

That's not a bad rig, but at that price point, you deserve something with an ssd. It will make your overall experience much snappier. After getting an ssd, I can never go back to a regular hard drive. I also feel that, if you're going to get an rx 580, you might as well go with the 8gb variant over the 4gb.

I realize that it can sometimes be hard to find pre-builts with ssds. Another good option in my opinion is to buy a pre-built with no ssd (ie, the one you linked), and then throw in your own ssd. If you really want to keep costs down, this is a 120gb from adata for just over $20 that has been serving me well:

If you wanted to get a bit more storage however, I really like the Samsung 250gb for around $50:

There's other options out there, but those are my personal picks. If you don't want to do any custom work though and would prefer more plug and play, then I'm not sure at the moment. If you find another pc with an ssd, then I would strongly recommend that over the one that you have linked.

Over all though, it's a decent build.

(sorry for formatting, on mobile)

u/brianwski · 3 pointsr/backblaze

Disclaimer: I work at Backblaze.

> set the temporary folder

If you open the Backblaze Control panel and find the “Settings...” button, on the first tab is “Temporary Scratch Drive” or something like that. You can set that to an external or internal drive other than “C:\” there. Hit “Pause” on the backup (if it is running). Make sure this folder is empty (while paused):


Then hit “Backup Now” or wait to let the backup resume.

Now, that will change where Backblaze makes a copy of large files it is about to backup, which is “temporary data”. However, there is some data which is not temporary (should only be 2-3 GBytes) where Backblaze remembers what has been backed up or not backed up. That cannot be moved. The way to make it smaller (the smallest it can be) is to uninstall, reinstall, and NOT use “Inherit Backup State”. It will repush all your files, in the process clearing the “history” of everything that has occurred which shrinks this folder to the theoretical minimum. It will then slowly grow from there to about 1 GByte over the first year of operation. Maybe 2 GBytes over 3 years, etc.

Another idea is to upgrade your internal SSD. The Samsung EVO series is ridiculously good, and a 256 GByte doubling of your capacity is $50 from Amazon:

Depending on your form factor, they go all the way down to $25 for a 256 GByte Kingston SSD. I would still recommend the “EVO” if you can afford it, they are fast and reliable.

u/alanquinne · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/-Badger2- · 3 pointsr/Dell

If you don't want to open up your laptop, you could buy a 2.5 Inch ssd and an enclosure

Which model G3 15 do you have? You probably have a slot for an m.2 SSD, so you wouldn't have to replace your hard drive.

u/Vartemis · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I have done the same. For anybody trying to do so, just buy these 2 items off of amazon:

Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA...

ORICO USB3.0 to SATA III 2.5"...

Those links contain everything you need. Once you have them, connect it to your xbox and transfer destiny to the ssd from the internal storage and you're done.

u/sudosudash · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I got this Samsung @ 250 GB And the difference has been unreal. Sad that we have to buy additional hardware to improve load times but I would imagine even with a patch load times will be better from an SSD than the internal HD

u/icyhotonmynuts · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

>this was going for $60 on amazon not too long ago

Oh ya? Show us. I don't see $60 CAD on CamelCamelCamel or Keepa price history for 860 Evo 500GB

The lowest I've seen it sold on been sold on Amazon I see has been for $89.99. Lowest Lightning Deal was $94.99, 2 months ago.

You're thinking of the 860 Evo 250GB that went for $59.99 from August 30th for 2 weeks.

u/Only0ne0klahoma · 3 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

This is what I used on my 1X, works perfectly.

Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

u/bermuda221 · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

I just purchased these. Several of my co-workers and clan members have the same:

u/Metalluka · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

This is what I bought and works just fine. Plug and play. Installed the game on the external drive and boom: less time loading, more time playing.

Total = $66.26 + tax (as of this post)

Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD

AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0

u/bewareofmoocow · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Trying to fill a 2.5 inch storage slot. Is the Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB still worth double the price of Seagate FireCuda 2TB Solid State Hybrid Drive Performance SSHD on sale for $60?

u/Azn03 · 3 pointsr/PS5

Anything on Amazon like this and here's a guide for you to swap it out. It's super simple.

If you want to clone the HDD you have now because you have games and stuff you don't want to delete I would suggest to buy a HDD cloner. Its really easy and I've done it multiple times for just cloning when I did upgrades.

Personal note: $139 for 1tb SSD was like $500 back when it released. I don't even think if they had 1TB SSD. Crazy. If I wasn't already at 1TB I would buy, but I'm going to just wait for the PS5.

u/ClevelandOG · 3 pointsr/NBA2k

You can minimize the luck factor and have an advantage over everyone if you get an SSD.

I only have an SSD because I speedrun on ps4, (if i didnt, it wouldnt be worth it) but it refreshes the auction house way faster.

Edit: here is the one I have if you care.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/jtoomim · 3 pointsr/btc

> Which confirms our calculations, that data storage requirements would be huge (5PB). But at the same time he does state that it would cost around $200 per month. Now we did a quick search, but failed to find such a rig being offered at such low prices.

As I mentioned in the correction, 100 Mbps is (barely) enough to handle 30k tx/sec. 1 Gbps would give plenty of headroom. That's around $60-100/month right now, though availability is currently still limited.

You can buy a 32 core server with 128 GB of RAM for under $600 right now. SSDs cost about $150/TB, so a 50 TB of SSDs would add about $7,500. So that's $8,000 for the basic hardware. Amortize that over 5 years, and the HW costs are about $133/month. Add in the $60-100 BW costs, and you're looking at around $193 to $233/month with today's hardware prices

When I did this calculation 3 months ago, I think I was assuming that a home hobbyist user would just use prune=xxxxx and wouldn't bother storing the full blockchain, so I omitted it from my cost calculation. But I still included the HDD array for storing the blockchain in the text description. Oops, sorry. The HDD array is unnecessary and I shouldn't have mentioned it.

If you are looking to rent a dedicated server from a cloud provider, it's going to cost a lot more than this, of course. Datacenters with 99.99% uptime guarantees are expensive places, and are no place for a budget hobbyist node.

u/TThor · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For faster web browsing and general multitasking, you want: Fast ram, fast/multicore CPU, and fast storage.

I don't see an SSD on your parts list, so that would by far be the biggest bang-for-your-buck improvement you can add to your computer.

Get a solid state drive to use in conjunction with your hard disk drive, reinstall your Windows operating system onto that SSD, and move all important/frequently used software/files onto that SSD.

Here is the SSD buying guide to help you choose which SSD to probably buy:

For top performance, I would recommend the Samsung 860 EVO (in whichever size you want, but the bigger the storage size the better it will perform). If that is too expensive for you, there are always other options, such as the ADATA Su800.


Note, an SSD will improve your loadspeeds on everything, but alone is unlikely to improve your LoL framerate much. For that you will likely need a new CPU, new RAM, and a new motherboard to put it all in.

u/ffca · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Mine take a couple minutes. It used to be around 10 seconds. Then in March, I removed that SSD, got Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) ...fresh install of Windows and...

Still slow boot time. WTF?

Boot time was so fast when I first built my PC 2 years ago. Still runs amazing though.

u/GrimmBeard84 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Looks like you dont have an access cover so here is a quick video showing you the process looks pretty easy on your laptop. Id go for a samsung evo SSD 1tb drives can be had for 150 or less.

Link to how to video for your laptop

Link to the SSD I recommend but any will do.

u/Z-P-G · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

I no longer have my T420s, but here are a few things that might help:

  • The modified v1.43 BIOS for the T420s with the WiFi whitelist removed is here.
  • The Intel Wireless-AC 7260 should work by following the directions in the post here.
  • The Samsung 860 EVO is an excellent SSD choice.
  • The SDA and SCL pins on the T420s motherboard are shown here. It is possible to clear the supervisor password by shorting those pins as shown in the video here.
  • There are a number of other good resources for the ThinkPad T420s here.

    Hope this helps a bit.
u/Imbigazoid · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |

PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.

Case Amazon link:

SSD Amazon link:

With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.

If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.

Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.

M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.

The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: Forgot about it :/

Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo

Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU

If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.

I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.

u/GhostBond · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you have a regular hdd, you can replace it with a regular ssd that is the same size like a Samsung Evo:

The other form factor that your machine may support is "m.2". It's a much smaller form factor built around ssd's much smaller size than hdd's.

What you really need to do is look up what your machine supports.

u/FtDLulz · 3 pointsr/Overwatch

Yeah, even higher speed 7200 RPM HDDs will get this. I'd actually recommend getting a 1 TB SSD whenever you do upgrade (this one's actually only $128 right now, which is a pretty good deal on an SSD) as it's actually one of the best upgrades for a computer to speed it up.

My Overwatch has that model problem (along with borders and stars not loading completely) when it's on my HDD but on my SSD it never happens.

u/MagpieDev · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

Hey, full stack developer using x1 extreme with Linux here. Everything you listed here seems fine other than the ssd you want to make sure you get nvme as opposed to normal sata 3 one to make sure you get the most out of it. This is the lowest one I'd put on a workstation

That's the normal 970 evo, the 970 evo plus is a bit better though. 970 pro isn't worth it to me from a price point perspective the 970 plus is my go-toand is what I have installed on my X1E. 3500mb/s read and about 3200-3300 mb/s write, the one you listed hovers around 500mb/s read and a bit less write than that.

Everything you listed as a requirement can be done on all Linux distros, what you have to determine is how you'd like to manage them. If you're a first time user I'd recommend pop os and manjaro, they're sure to have all the stuff you need and work pretty good out of the box. I personally use manjaro because it's a rolling release so I install once and just go upgrading stuff as it comes out, no need to install a new one over what I have once the new release is out like other distros. Just remember that with Linux you'll have to do some digging around and getting your hands dirty with stuff sometimes for things to work properly but once you get used to it you'll see it's a small price to pay for all the flexibility you get. The ones I listed are just some personal favourites, you really can't go wrong with any other to be honest just experiment with a few until you find the right fit for you, try them on some virtual machines if you want to make your testing a bit faster.


u/snmnky9490 · 3 pointsr/PCBuilds

Looks pretty good to me but I think a few small changes could get a little better value.

I'd suggest getting the 3000 or 3200MHz versions of your RAM instead of 2666. It's literally two dollars more on Amazon. for 3000.

You could possibly save a bit of money with a different motherboard, but if you like that particular one it should work great. I don't have any specific recommendations because I don't know if there's anything specific you needed that that board has.

Personally I don't like having have two different drives for OS and any programs, so I'd just go with a single 1TB 970 Evo for $228 and a HDD with no 2.5" SSD. Or to save a bit go with a HP EX920 for 38 bucks less. With either choice, enough super fast NVMe storage to fit the OS and every single program you'd realistically ever install is worth the loss of 250GB space total when you are also getting a massive storage HDD with several TB.

You could definitely save on the PSU unless you plan on getting a second 1080ti in SLI. A high end 8700k/single 1080ti system running CPU, GPU, and storage stress tests simultaneously would still be unlikely to ever hit 500W, and in real world usage would rarely pull over 400W. You could definitely save on the PSU while still having plenty of headroom. I definitely wouldn't go lower than 500 or 550, but there are plenty of top-tier brands of 650 and 750W Gold or Plat rated PSUs for much less than $140. EVGA's Supernova G2 and G3 are around 90 bucks for top quality with a 10-year warranty and gold efficiency.
Even the normal black colored 850W Corsair RMx is thirty bucks cheaper thatn the $140 white one you picked, which would pay for the other upgrades, and you usually don't even see the PSU or its wiring any more as most cases have a PSU shroud including the SPEC-OMEGA RGB you chose.

I'm not a fan of that case's plastic Transformers look, but if you like it, other than aesthetics it seems like it has every feature you'd want in a case. IMO NZXT's H500i looks a lot cleaner while still having built in controllable RGB and a glass side panel and is also 20 bucks cheaper without having to fill out a rebate form. If you do that though, I'd suggest getting one of NZXT's AIO CPU coolers instead of Corsair's to work with their LED sync software. Usually makes sense to try and keep sync-able RGB stuff the same brand for compatibility.

Everything you already have selected should work great together but some tweaks would get you a better deal for what you're paying.

u/DenderaFields · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

I just ordered one too, and I've got the same questions as you (minus the warranty)! Though, I am looking at the Samsung Evo 1TB SSD: It's the best for the money from the research I've done, and it's at the lowest price it's ever been. I just want to make sure I won't need an adapter or anything for it.

u/noobstaah · 3 pointsr/MSILaptops

So from the product manual, that i'm seeing here,


your laptop have 1x M.2 PCIe/SATA Combo slot and 1x M.2 PCIe slot. and the ssd that you mentioned in specs is nvme/pcie ssd. Therefore i can assume that you can buy either m.2 sata or m.2 pcie/nvme drive. both will work. but i would recommend buying m.2 ssd for mass storage if you are not doing any kind of video editing. you can buy e.g. crucial mx500 1tb. Or if you are doing video editing or really hard core work that require insane amount of read write ssd speeds then buy samsung 970 evo.

How to configure in laptop:

- if u buy sata ssd: remove the alrdy installed ssd and put it in pcie only slot. put new sata ssd in combo slot.

- if u buy pcie/nvme ssd: install it in the second empty slot. dont touch alrdy installed ssd.



since you want 32 gb, you would need to replace both ram sticks. Also since laptop has intel cpu, ram of speeds 2667 are enough. buy a kit of 2x16gb 2667mhz and just replace the old rams. you can buy this and use it. i have recently installed 8gb ballistix stick in my laptop to make it 2x 8gb. works great.


Several videos are online to open up ur laptop. e.g. this one. just follow.

u/mattymims · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Also, I like your build, but I have a few suggestions


CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor

Nice. While the 3700x is clearly better for video editing, better in this case only means that it saves you time. And while time is nice, I think it'd be better to use that $140 towards a second monitor.


CPU Cooler - ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler

I feel like you would be better off either buying a better cooler or just sticking with the stock cooler, because I don't think this one will let you oc much more than the Wraith.



I don't think your use-case justifies an X570 board, I'd recommend the Aorus Pro with WiFi or the Aorus Elite without WiFi, and I would again say to use the extra $100+ towards that second monitor.


Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory

Nice. 3600 would be better, but if you can't find a 3600 set for a reasonable price, then you can try to manually oc this 3200 set to 3600.


Storage - Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

This is really important and confused me when M.2 drives first came out. Some SSDs have different physical Form Factors and electrical Interfaces.

Two common Form Factors are 2.5 inch and M.2 - Again, these are just physical, not too much of a difference here other than size.

Two common Interfaces are SATA III and PCIe - This is the important part, because SATA III has a maximum theoretical throughput of 600 MB/s, while PCIe Gen 3 4x has a maximum theoretical throughput of about 4000 MB/s

In this case, the Crucial MX500 is an SSD that uses the M.2 Form Factor and SATA III Interface. If you check it's rated read/write speeds, it's about 560/510 MB/s respectively, which would make sense given that it's SATA III.

But this doesn't mean that all NVMe PCIe SSDs can achieve read and write speeds of 4000 MB/s. This just means that if you see an M.2 SATA SSD, you know that it's not gonna be faster than 600 MB/s, but an M.2 PCIe SSD can be faster than 600 MB/s.

Maybe I went on for too long, anyway, my SSD suggestions would be:

Samsung 970 Evo 1TB for $169.99, my personal preference, nice brand, nice speeds (3500MB/s read, 2500MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)

Sabrent Rocket 1TB for 109.98, I haven't personally used it, not familiar with the brand but this specific product of theirs has a lot of positive reviews, similar speeds (3450MB/s read, 3000MB/s write), ok warranty (1 year?... some people question this)

Intel 660p 1TB for 89.99, I haven't personally used it, nice brand, nice speeds (1800MB/s read, 1800MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)


Video Card - MSI GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Video Card

Strictly gaming performance wise, the 5700 XT is better than the 2070. On top of that, it's around $30 cheaper.

General performance is tough to compare. And on top of that, they each have their own individual benefits in different video editing programs.

If video editing is mostly just a side thing, then the 5700 XT looks like the card for you. But if you are serious about video editing, then you're gonna have to do some research on which GPU is best for you.


Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

Nice, but it seams a little overpriced. The Corsair RM650x is also 80+ Gold and fully modular, but $20 cheaper.


Monitor - I'm tired, so I'm going to bed, but I personally use 2 monitors:

27" 4k 60Hz for content consumption

24" 1080p 144Hz VA for that juicy smooth gaming

I wish I got a 27" 1080p so they'd match in size but the increased pixel density of the 24" is probably better anyway.


Good luck with whatever you decide to build :D

u/KDirty · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, there are easy ways to transfer Windows. Well, easier than re-installing and starting from scratch.

I've used this in the past, which comes with a utility to clone your hard drive to your new SSD. I believe the tool requires something like this to move the data. It wasn't listed as required when I purchased this SSD, but luckily I had one lying around.

Full disclosure, I did this from one SSD to another, but you should be able to use it from an HDD to an SSD. You'll need to trim down the data on your HDD until it's roughly 75% of the capacity of the new SSD before cloning it over.

Obviously keep your old HDD for a while after you've started running of your new SSD just in case you run into any problems.

Edit-- Just realized that it's your secondary drive that's failing, meaning you may not have a holding space for the data on your primary drive when you trim it down. If you're going to use it as a secondary drive later, I'm assuming it's a larger drive--not sure how full it is. You may need an external drive to temporarily hold the stuff from your primary drive if you don't feel like trusting that data, even temporarily, to the failing secondary drive. The tool I suggested does not, as far as I'm aware, allow you to copy over JUST your OS files and leave your other files in place. You wouldn't be able to hook up your new drive, boot into the old drive, and copy the Windows files over because most would be in use by your current drive. I'm guessing you could use a Linux ISO on a USB stick to boot into Linux and use their file tools to copy over all of the Windows files from the old drive to the new one, but I have suspicions as to how well that would work. My suspicions could be unfounded.

u/realone550 · 3 pointsr/photography

I just built my PC and I've found the most important components are:

  • Hard Drive: A Solid State Drive (SSD) allows for much faster read/write (loading times for Lightroom). You can get the cheapest 120gb for $65. Or $100 for 250gb + Far Cry 4

  • CPU: Higher processing speed makes Lightroom go fast. I got the i7-4790k, but you can compare here

u/arthurfm · 3 pointsr/hackintosh

Why isn't he recommending the Samsung 840 EVO - it's cheaper than the SanDisk SSDs? Is it not suitable for hackintosh's?

120GB ($99.99):

250GB ($176.99):

u/YellowCBR · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

A 250GB Samsung EVO

The EVO is the most popular SSD right now, striking a perfect balance between price, speed, and reliability. A cheaper option is a Crucial M500 which is still pretty good, but not as fast.

EDIT: Btw these are $10-$20 cheaper on Amazon, which is why I linked there, sorry.

u/digiden · 3 pointsr/computertechs

For example, I want to buy 10 of these SSD from Amazon. But they only allow 4.

Edit 1: Never mind. I just edited my cart to 10 and it let me do that. I was being retarded.
Edit 2: Nope. I got excited for no reason. Wouldn't let me buy more than 4.

u/samarisi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

it'd have to be pretty fucking cheap, you can get a 250GB Samsung EVO 840 for $140 from amazon. i mean, if you can pick it up for less than $100 then MAYBE, but i'd go with a more reputable brand.

u/tekrevue · 3 pointsr/applehelp

Well you can't upgrade your GPU so don't worry about that factor. As for RAM and SSD, both will definitely provide a boost in responsiveness, but that assumes everything else is operating normally. Your comments about the MacBook's recent laggy performance may indicate an issue.

As per /u/Sir_not_sir's suggestion, remove the bottom case and check for dust buildup on the fans. Here are iFixit instructions on doing that. But be careful if you're using canned air. You can use it to blow dust out of the area surrounding the fan, but don't use it in such a way that the air stream turns the fan bades, as that can damage the fans.

Another factor is that your model of MacBook Pro is widely reported as suffering from GPU failures, with lots of owners seeing issues. I have the same model, and was working for Apple at the time of purchase. We saw several models come in for repair for various issues early on, and noticed with all of them that they had way too much thermal paste on the CPU and GPU. My coworkers and I who had purchased the 2011 models all spent a night removing the logic boards, cleaning, and then reapplying the correct amount of paste. None of us have had the issues reported recently [knock on wood]. So that might be one area to look into, although don't do it if you're not comfortable with computer repair; see if you can find a local service provider (Apple itself won't do it for you).

As for the upgrades, you don't want to buy something and discover that your problems were due to an unrelated hardware failure. So what you may want to try is to find a retailer that accepts returns on the SSD and RAM (most companies will charge a restocking fee on opened items, somewhere around 15 percent, but call ahead to companies like Other World Computing, explain the situation, and ask if they can make an exception on their return policy). That way you can try to upgrade and see if things improve. If not, you're not stuck with expensive components, as you won't be able to use either the RAM or SSD if you end up buying a new MacBook Pro.

I have a 512GB Samsung 840 EVO and 16GB of OWC RAM in my 2011 MBP, and it still runs like a champ for just about everything other than intensive video encoding/rendering. If you can sort out the performance and heat issue, yours should have no problem getting you through the rest of school.

u/arahman81 · 3 pointsr/technology

You can always use the SSD alongside a HDD. OS goes to SSD, with some other stuff like browsers, and some games. Other stuff like videos and music goes to HDD.

And a 250GB Samsung Evo is $130 right now, well worth for the huge improvement.

u/omegis983 · 3 pointsr/apple

If you decide to try an SSD to replace the slow 5200rpm hard drive that came in that iMac, I'd recommend checking out the Samsung 840 Evo SSD. Best bang for your buck and an SSD should definitely speed things up.



u/harry1234546 · 3 pointsr/skyrimmods

SSD's are known to slow down with decreased performance as they fill up, ive heard estimates that one should keep around 20% free space for optimal speed. So I guess you can choose between everything being a bit slower or having a faster os and slower skyrim. I would personally think you will be fine if you dont go too overboard with it.
With the price of ssd's at the moment you could even try and pick up a 128gb one for skyrim pretty cheap

u/giubaloo · 3 pointsr/apple

I have the Mid 2010 13" MBP as well. I threw a Crucial M4 in it almost 2 years ago and it blows my mind how smoothly the computer still runs. The only other thing I've replaced is the battery. I honestly think this computer will continue to run this smoothly for another year or two. I'm so incredibly happy with it after 4 years.

I cannot recommend this enough. For less than $150 your computer will be so much faster you will hate yourself for not upgrading sooner.

u/fatherlongcat · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Some suggestions to trim the fat:

  • Replace the H100i with a NH-D15. It does better in cooling benchmarks, and offers quieter fans, and brings down the price $20.

  • Vengance Pro ram is kind of overpriced, you can get the same thing for $25 cheaper.

  • You can also save $100 by settling for a 240GB SSD, which should be more than enough to install your OS and games on. Heck, I have a 1TB + 240GB SSD, and I only use the SSD. The extra space you can just put on your HDD, if you do manage to overfill.

  • You can save $100 by purchasing a 980 ACX 2.0, or $60 by purchasing a 980 ACX SC. The SC is by stock clocked higher than the Windforce, if you're not planning to custom OC.
u/PernixNexus · 3 pointsr/apple

I've heard really good things about the Samsung Evo 840 and it seems pretty affordable. Here's a link:

u/WorstDariusEUW · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This looks like a great starter build! Allthough your build will more than likely fit into a small tower case so if you want some extra space you could change it, allthough if you keep it, extra space gives better cooling so you could also keep it, your choise there.

Very nice build, what you got there is pretty much all you need, if you can put some extra budget I would strongly recomend getting a 250GB SSD which will allow you to startup in around 10 seconds, but that is not essential and is kinda expensive, so whatever you choose.

SSD on Amazon:

u/Anal-Assassin · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/-UserRemoved- · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You aren't benefitting from NVMe, I certainly wouldn't recommend getting a 970. NVMe drives are significantly faster in sequential read/write speeds (that's the speed that's listed there), which play little to no role in load times. You'll have the same experience as you do currently with your sata SSD.

If you need more space, get another sata SSD. If you really want NVMe, get a cheap one like the Crucial P1, since it makes no difference anyways.

u/Spongeytwo · 3 pointsr/shittykickstarters

> A 2 TB kingston flash drive (with substantially worse data transfer specs) retails for around 1,000 dollars right now, to put this in perspective, their goal for this campaign was 6,380 dollars.

Uh, do you not know what they're talking about? heck of a lot cheaper than $1k ($96). Obviously that's not in an enclosure, but that ain't adding $900 to the price

u/SupaZT · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Ewe QLC nand.


$2 more on amazon:

u/Used_Taco · 3 pointsr/buildapc

SSDs are cheap enough now that I'd just go with an SSD personally. You can get a 1TB NVMe for around $100


(Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

Before people start talking about it being a slow SSD, sure it's 20% slower than a Samsung 970 Evo or whatever, but it's probably 6 times faster than an HDD.

Of course it also depends on how much storage you need. Personally, I'd get a 1TB SSD and maybe a 2TB HDD if you need that much storage, which I would.

u/psimwork · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Why you would buy that when you can buy this which is cheaper and faster is beyond me. :)

u/asianever · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/SRTGANG · 3 pointsr/buildapc 1 TB NVME, its double the price of ur current ssd, buty also double the storage, but its cheap price, and works well, about 4x the speed of an ssd, just got mine today!

u/jsquadron · 3 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

If you don't mind QLC drives, Amazon are selling "new" 1TB Crucial NVME drives for around £82. I bought one earlier for £78. Link here

u/NEXTAltair · 3 pointsr/jisakupc


u/AlphaGamer753 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

A much, much faster NVMe SSD which is £99.98 if you tick the box that says "Apply 16% voucher". Would recommend this over the 860 EVO.

u/fritsypeij · 3 pointsr/macbook

To use the newest Chrome on Mac, you'll need OS X Mavericks 10.9 or later.

You can upgrade to 10.11 (El Capitan). Sadly, this will most probably slow down your computer in its current state. Like /u/Nera2626 said, you can upgrade the hardware as well, which will help with the speed on the newer OS versions. The maximum memory your laptop accepts is 8GB of PC3-8500 DDR3 1066 MHz (SO-DIMM) RAM. An SSD wil further increase speed.

Edit: Not really sure where you're from, but here's a list on Amazon:

So you could be back on track for less than $150 if you know someone that can help you install it.

u/gts250gamer101 · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

I would recommend installing an SSD as your boot drive, and you can install those same files onto the SSD, and then using the 1TB drive as storage, in the ultrabay. (Ultrabay is the 'port' where the CD/DVD drive currently would be installed)

You can buy a cheap adapter here, and a good cheap SSD here.

Good luck! W530 is a great machine :D

u/General1236 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Pretty solid deal but I grabbed this instead:

Faster shipping and more reputable IMO.

u/jussnf · 3 pointsr/laptops

The HP's screen is probably much better: IPS on the HP vs TN (check the reviews on the Dell site). You're also right to be concerned about battery life, the HP has a slightly smaller battery, 61 Wh vs 74 Wh. I'd expect about 5 hours on the HP to 6 hours on the Dell, but that's just an educated guess.

Honestly, unless you can afford to upgrade the Dell's screen, I'd go for the HP for the screen and savings. You can even put the money saved towards an SSD and swap out the hard drive; that is a upgrade that can make miles of difference compared to anything else you can reasonably change about these two models. For example: SSD

EDIT: It looks like the laptops actually have two storage slots. You also have the option of adding in an SSD into the second slot like this one and installing Windows onto it, while keeping the 1 TB HDD as storage for videos, games, etc.

If you'd like to read more about the HP here. This has last year's 960M graphics card, but it looks like everything else about it is the same.

u/fatcowxlivee · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

The MX300 520 GB is still $162 and eligible for 1 day shipping

u/LuckierLion · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

It's also 149.99 at Amazon with free shipping

u/podboi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Something like this IMO brand doesn't matter so long as they are a known brand, take your pick with the capacity you need

u/1cyberdude · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I just looked on Amazon and it is there. I went to the site and the price went up instantly but I found it to the right under compare offers on Amazon, just like OP mentions. Here is the link if it works, if not try what I just said. They are temporarily o.o.s atm.

u/eltiolukee · 3 pointsr/argentina

Che, no es por llevarles la contra, pero hice la comparacion de una compra de hace 15 dias (hdd 6tb y ssd 500gb a €369) con lo que saldria hoy (€365.97). No hay casi diferencia de precios

Links: HDD - (pongan el de amazon, porlas)

u/_ianna · 3 pointsr/buildapc

EDIT: My version of your build, much smaller with more storage, I just threw in a cheaper keyboard but whatever.

I see you're going all out here.

I'm ignoring peripherals, because that's preference.

  • Your case is big and expensive, but you don't have the hardware internally to necessitate it. If you can try to get a mid tower as that is basically the smallest form factor that allows you to keep a full ATX motherboard. Coolermaster, Fractal Design, NZXT all have cheaper mid towers with windows, which will probably save you around $200.

  • I'm not sure of your storage needs, but your storage setup is not very optimal. I would suggest getting a single, extremely fast but small, 128 or 256 GB M.2 NVME SSD to house my OS and frequent programs (broser, steam, Microsoft Office, etc.). Then I would get a cheaper 2.5inch SSD, either 512GB or 1TB. Finally, I would get a 1 or 2 TB hard drive for pictures, videos, and large games that you play infrequently. Some easy choices that I just found for these components might be:

    128GB NVME SSD:

    1TB 2.5in SSD: /ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=3GK2PGXJS2QFXET07H84&th=1

    1 or 2TB HDD: Lots of options, probably best are going to be Seagate (Barracuda or Firecuda drives), Western Digital (Blues or Blacks for better performance), or something like HGST.

  • You can get a bigger AIO for your case, you know, and you can also get more fans. I would get more fans that would match the ones in your case (140mm rgb ones from coolermaster). Again, I would really say get a smaller case, your build is going to look a little funny especially with the AIO, no hdds, and only one expansion card.
u/Th3MadCreator · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Just giving you a heads up that you probably won't sell that NVMe here for that price. That's what they retail for now on Amazon, and eBay has them about $78 brand new. Sadly, and thankfully, all SSD prices have dropped significantly. I actually just picked up a 1TB NVMe for $179.

EDIT: I admit I did forget the links. That's my own fault.

Recent sale for used drive, another one, and one more

Price policing only applies if you don't provide links, which I admit I did forget at first. Updated now to follow the rules.

u/tyrindor2 · 3 pointsr/factorio

Where are you getting $4000? These drives cost 1/4 that. Plus you don't need 1TB versions, or the PRO versions, nor do you need two for Raid 0. This setup is obviously built with more than Factorio in mind.

1.9GB/s writes for $117:

That will easily be fast enough to move the bottleneck to your CPU. If you don't have a M2 slot, you'd have to buy a PCI-E card.

u/GuyMansworth · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

This one seems to be only $17 more but have much quicker write speeds. I don't know too much about SSD's but can someone tell me which is better of the two?

u/kokoren · 3 pointsr/LaptopDeals

Honestly, your life will be much easier if you just do a fresh install of windows when installing a new drive. While you can clone or migrate installations it's just not perfect.
From checking the spec sheet for the g7 it supports m.2 ssd (which goes over SATA) as well as pci 3 NVMe (which is i think around 5x faster than SATA and runs off of PCIe lanes).

A couple examples of what should work with that laptop NVMe and SATA-AHCI

u/mjrengaw · 3 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I have 2 Shields and on both I use Kingston 120gb SSD's in Sabrent USB 3.0 ultra slim aluminum enclosures. $30 total on Amazon and they come with everything you need including a short USB cable. Note that once you install the SSD in the enclosure you will need to connect it to a PC and format it prior to connecting to the Shield. They are very small.


Enclosure -

u/Laxative_ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Link to m.2 SSD.

Both are priced at $134.99 and are eligible for prime shipping.

u/roll_the_ball · 3 pointsr/kingdomcome

Then HDD is your bottleneck in your rig.

If you are on a budged (and have board with M2, which is implied by k processor), WD blue has best bang for buck value. You won't notice any difference IRL usage if you go for SATA variant, but prices are kind of on par.

SSDs are mainstream in midrange gaming rigs for at least 5 years and whoever build your rig deserves kick in the balls.

Black friday sales are around the corner or you can wish for nice christmas present.

Last recomendation: Don't go for anything below 1TB, most of new AAA games are over 100GB install so lower capacities are not worth the vicious hustle unless you have at least 1Gb fiber internet.

u/dishayu · 3 pointsr/razer
  1. Yes.
  2. Yes.
  3. Depends. There are cheap SSDs and expensive SSDs.
u/HommeDErable · 3 pointsr/sffpc

Looks fine, the one thing you might look into is a 1 tb m.2 drive, as they're getting pretty cheap on amazon and would offer some space savings and potentially better system speeds.


u/jsalatas · 3 pointsr/Dell

Actually mine came with a WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS500G2B0B which I changed with a Samsung EVO 970.

u/UnsavoryCrocodile · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/glymao · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

Guess you are not gaming or using other intensive programs. What about the Asus F510UA?
It is thin and light at only 3.7lbs. At $509, it's the cheapest laptop with i5-8250U and 8GB RAM, and the FHD screen is a big plus. Normally I would suggest its $599 variation with SSD pre-installed but since it's out of stock, I guess you will need to find one on your own, like this

u/blairy91 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Looks good, though that seems awfully expensive for a 1050ti!

You can get a 1660 6Gb for very close to the same price

Check the userbenchmark results, it's a way way way better card for an extra $9

Edit : also if you forget about going 1 x ssd and 1x mechanical drive, add an extra $10 you can get a 1TB SSD, so you can have the extra performance for everything rather than just your favourite couple of games. Yeah you lose 240gb but is that a big loss?

u/jasonrod86 · 3 pointsr/PS4

No you do not. Just the usb for the OS loading and your good. Here is a link to the 1 tb I got for about 135 from Amazon.

Sony made it awesomely easy to perform this upgrade!

u/clupean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

On Amazon the Samsung 860 Evo is cheaper:

Mobo: try to buy a B450 motherboard

Do you already have DDR4 RAM?

u/MrHornblower · 3 pointsr/blackdesertonline

I waited for a while myself but man it is worth it. Seriously you will be really happy with the purchase.

It's one of those things just make your whole computing experience better. Prices are fairly cheap now I think as well.

$78 - easy choice imo

u/DJRenzor · 3 pointsr/thewallstreet

I am looking for a new SSD as well. Going on r/buildapcsales rn


Edit: Shopping done, gonna be picking up this with my various amazon gift cards-

u/CallMeGifted · 3 pointsr/playblackdesert

On PlayStation you can do an external or internal SSD. Internal is going to be a bit faster because it's not limited by USB, and it also gives an advantage outside of games because the PS4 OS will be on the internal drive so navigating PSN menus etc is faster.

For ease of use and storage space, most people go with an external Samsung T5.

$89 500GB: Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB - USB 3.1 External SSD (MU-PA500B/AM), Blue

If you want the performance at the cheapest price and you're not worried about storage space, this Sandisk 500GB internal SSD is the best option at $65: SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND 500GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - SDSSDH3-500G-G25

I have the Sandisk but the Samsung 860 internal is on sale right now at $70: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)

There are 1TB and higher available in all of the above as well.

u/White-t-shirts · 3 pointsr/buildapc

yes, but get 860 evo for slightly cheaper

u/TheFlashFrame · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is really the only SSD you should be buying. Don't buy PNY, Sandisk or Kingston, as I've seen them fail myself and with an SSD, once it fails, everything is gone, unlike a mechanical drive.

Its really not that much more expensive, and its far faster and far more reliable, and Samsung has a 5 year warranty on them.

EDIT: I should specify that Samsung is the only SSD brand you should be buying. You can, of course, purchase 970s as well, which are even better.

u/bgunn925 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Firstly, there's a major difference between being DOA and working for a matter of weeks before failing. The latter is tremendously worse, as anyone without a backup solution has lost all of their data.

Secondly, any hardware manufacturer is capable of some DOA devices. That does not mean Samsung and Adata drives have comparable endurances -- you need to consider the statistics of the distribution, as a whole. We can do a quick analysis with a much larger sample size than your personal experience of owning a single Adata SSD and a single Samsung SSD:

  • Here is the Amazon link for the Samsung EVO 860. It has 33 critical reviews containing the word "fail". Out of 4,372 total reviews, this is 0.75%.

  • Here is the Amazon link for the Adata SU655 -- the same drive that failed for the redditor in the comment I linked. It has 20 critical reviews containing the word "fail". Out of 310 total reviews, this is 6.5% -- about one order of magnitude larger.

    Obviously, this is not a thorough, extensive analysis, and probably does not reflect the actual, absolute failure rates for these devices. But it's probably first-order accurate as a comparison and hopefully you get the point.
u/ElectronicsWizardry · 3 pointsr/mac

A ssd is as simple as taking the back off and unscrewing the drive. There are lots of videos on doing it and it only needs a philips screwdriver. I can do the swap in about 15min.

here is the drive id get

u/CherryBlossomStorm · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Minis are just a bit slower and louder. In the case of the 1060 zotac mini, not much difference, it's an excellent card - 1060 has a low TDP to begin with.

2) Likely a pcpartpicker error. Pick out a z470 in the $100-140 range.

3) Would add an SSD, even if it's just a small one. Or ditch the HDD and put that money towards an SSD too. Drop the hard drive, and for an extra $70...

u/99hotdogs · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Been tracking this since it was $135 or so. It dropped to this price this morning.

I think this is a nice blend of price, performance, and storage space.

Also available at this price on Amazon, B&H, Microcenter and a few other retailers.

*Typing on my cell, sorry about any typos or bad formatting

u/MetalGearRey · 3 pointsr/gamedev

Dude an SSD is easily the biggest upgrade you could do on that rig. A 500gb is cheap af these days and you can use it when you build a new rig, listen to these guys advice it will make a difference.

u/komradek · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Sure! This exact one.

I will also note that I followed the guide, took my time, organized the screws I took out and even though my first attempt failed (I must have run the program wrong) and the hdd would not boot AT ALL, attempt 2 was such a success that at 2am after 3 hours of work and nervousness I was cheering.

Its very doable.

u/ssssound · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, msg me OP. I would say considering your budget, start with 500gb which should be plenty of space. I would go for either Samsung 850 Evo or the Crucial MX500, which also has amazing reviews. If anyone else wants to chime in, go for it.

u/SwimmingJunky · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For just a $20 difference, I'd recommend getting

It'll be much faster than the SATA since it's NVMe and it's double the storage space.

u/TravonsGhost · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Looks pretty solid. Just FYI, that keyboard is Cherry MX Blue which may drive your parents insane (it's loud). If that's a concern go with brown, it's a little less noisy. As for the M2 drive, I'd go with the Sabrent Rocket. Build is plenty good for gaming and school.

u/cyberintel13 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The Sabrent Rocket m.2 3400MB/s 1TB SSD is just as fast as a 970 evo but its only $109. It also has a 5yr warranty and longer life (TBW=1665) than a 970 evo. This is the best value / performance in m.2 SSD on market right now.

u/sevayne7 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

That can handle 1440p no problem. The 970 evo is expensive tho. I've heard the Sabrent Rocket is a great SSD. I'd consider this instead of the 2 drives you listed if you don't have a lot of software and put the money saved to RAM with 3600 MHz speed

u/xxstasxx · 3 pointsr/Amd

while that person did try to help, he is a bit out of touch with ssd prices..

sata ssds haven't gone down in pricing in a meaningful way for the past year, they are still around ~110$ for 1tb and samsung likes to charge their tax on top of that too..

instead, you can get nvme ssds such as this or this for the same price..

their performance and warranty is equivalent to a samsung 970 evo, if not better.. and are miles faster than a sata ssd...

RAM: while the one you picked is 3600mhz, it's running at cl18 the memory latency will be same versus a kit running at 3200/cl16 or 3000/cl15.

get these crucial ballistix sticks instead, you can overclock them way beyond their rated speeds (Search for E-Die overclocking on the web to see approximate results) make sure they have "AES" in the model name and you're 100% guaranteed to have E-Die sticks.

CPU Cooler: while noctua is great and all , i personally think the NH-U12S is a waste of money at that price point, just use the stock cooler that comes with your ryzen cpu for a while and save those 70$ towards a noctua nh-u12a or a Noctua NH-D15 (Comes in black variant too now).

Motherboard: can't really recommend one , but instead i urge you to to look at this am4 motherboard list here they all have their own pros and cons, nothing is perfect :^)

u/alllmossttherrre · 3 pointsr/applehelp

It depends on what Apple is using inside the iMac. If they're using a standard SSD and connector like on the base model (slow) hard drive, then it could be possible. But if it's like the iMac Pro, Mac mini, and laptops where the SSD ls really a set of fast flash storage chips using a non-standard interface, it will not be possible or practical to replace them after purchase.

The safest/cheapest way to get more storage is to order the iMac with internal storage big enough to serve as a system drive for the entire life of the computer (probably minimum 256GB), then for the rest of your data, plug in external drives through the fast USB 3/Thunderbolt ports.

What you plug in should depend on the speed you need:

  • For general use, you can really go cheap and plug in hard drives (<1 Gigabits/sec) through the USB port.
  • For more speed, plug in cheap SSDs (4Gb/sec) in cheap USB 3.0 (aka USB 3.1 Gen 1) enclosures (5Gb/sec), into the USB 3 port.
  • For even more speed, plug in an NVMe SSD (up to around 26Gb/sec, the type Apple uses internally) via USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10Gb/sec), but obviously that's limited by the port.
  • For the same overall throughput as Apple internal flash, plug in an NVMe SSD through the Thunderbolt 3 port (40Gb/sec). The enclosure and cable are significantly more expensive than USB, but still a lot less than what Apple would charge for an internal upgrade.
  • For the best possible speed, build a RAID of NVMe SSDs plugged in through the Thunderbolt 3 post (40Gb/sec). You probably don't need this unless you're doing deadline-driven 4K/8K video editing or something like that.

    If you go NVMe for the speed, the nice thing is that those drives are rather small on the desk. That last box is 5.4 x 4.4 x 2.4 inches, and that's for 4 slots!
u/acolis · 3 pointsr/MSI_Gaming

Sharing my experience with the Tomahawk B450.

I bought it before reaching this subreddit.

List of parts bought on amazon:

Msi B450 Tomahawk

Ryzen 3600

Patriot Viper 16GB X2

Samsung NVME 1TB 970

Parts I had and reused for the build:

Zotac GTX 1060 6GB

Cooler master Master Box Case

Seasonic Modular PSU (will update later on the exact model)

Samsung 1TB HDD

Parts I bought for the Bios Flashing:

Amd AM4 Athlon 200GE with Vega geaphics

After reading some of the posts here and the updates I figured I would need an updated bios on my motherboard before connecting the 3600.

Failing to find a store/repair shop to do the bios upgrade for me I bought the cheapest AM4 I could find in my region (Israel) to do the flashing.

I assembled the PC with one RAM stick, the Athlon 200GE, No Cmos Battery, connected to the DVI port of the motherboard, inserted a USB stick with the latest Bios from the MSI website ( 7C02v1A ), started the built in flash utility of the Bios, and waited.

The flashing process took a while, so for everyone doing the flashing "blind" (with the button and the USB method) you should wait at least 10 minutes between tries.

After the process finished, I shut down the computer, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and swaped the Athlon with the 3600.

Booted UP, looked at the leds on the motherboard....CPU...VGA....and stuck.

Thought maybe I failed to do anything right, and then remembered the 3600 doesnt have GPU built in.

Truned off the PC, unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and Inserted the GTX 1060.

Connected the DVI cable to the GPU, turned on the PC, waited for the leds. And voila, booting properly and going into bios.


At this point I shut down the PC again,unplugged the PSU, did a power release (Clicked the power button a bunch of times), and plugged the rest of the components (Another RAM stick, NVME, HDD, Wireless PCIE card), did all the cable management needed and closed the case.


Turned on the PC, got into Bios settings, changed some settings, mainly XMP, and booting options, and booted into the USB3 thumbdrive with WIN10 1903 install.


Finished installing the OS, booting into windows, sudden restart, then again, and again???????

Windows showing error "Windows failed to start"

Trying Safe mode, windows is stable, driver issue.

Reset Bios settings, windows is stable.

Changing settings 1 by 1:

XMP - Stable

Vitrualazation - Stable


Didn't pusue any more changes than that ATM.


PC is working fast, no issues so far.

Will update if anything changes.



My system works, I don't do any overclocking whatsoever, your mileage may vary.

u/NeverHornyOnMain · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Beautiful tiny PC but here's a very friendly price break down. I'm using new prices here from Amazon except for the fan. This isn't taking into consideration whether the parts are a day or a year old they are officially used and if you go off of even good/average to great /r/hardwareswap deals this would be quite cheaper and it's hard to add a building tax to a community full of builders.

CPU $200 - Ryzen 3600

MOBO $129 - MSI B450i

GPU $320 - RTX 2060

NVME $90 - Samsung 970 Evo

RAM $90 - XPG 3200 MHz 16GB RGB

COOLER $40 - Noctua NH-L9a

FAN $24 - 25mm 4000 RPM Delta Fan

PSU $90 - OP's model is OOS

Custom SFF Cables - $30-50

CASE - GEEEK A30 + Riser Cable + Shipping = $100.67 (for me)

This is $1,113 for everything, basically new.

I don't really think it's a terrible price at all but the nature of this sub seems to be getting great deals so you can pretty much build a PC you would have never had if you just bought everything new on Amazon etc, especially since I believe this sub is full of PC builders. I have seen some absurd deals on this sub reddit that make me want to quit my job so I can just refresh constantly and that's because I've had a full system for awhile. Just a little food for thought for anybody. With some commitment to checking here you can get a great build for way below retail cost of the parts.

u/Vault111Survivor · 3 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk
u/eric98k · 3 pointsr/sffpc

> PCPartPicker says the cooler and case below are not compatible

It fits:

Recommend Samsung newly released 970evo which is better and cheaper than ur 960evo: and

u/TheDarkSwordsman · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Solid build, and I really don't think you can get any better than this, however, I do have some things that I'd personally change.

I would ditch the HDD and go full SSD, like this Adata or even a Crucial MX500. I have an old 840 Evo 500 GB with tons of games (including large ones like Assetto Corsa, Cities Skylines, Euro Truck Sim 2, PUBG etc.), videos, etc. on it and I still have at least 80 GB free.

To me, it doesn't make sense to waste money on an HDD that you wouldn't buy otherwise, and use that on another fast 250+ GB of fast SSD space. I used to play games from an HDD. It didn't work 5 years ago and it surely still doesn't work well today. It was not fun crashing into concrete barriers on ArmA because it took too long to load the asset from disk. On a budget like this you have to make sacrifices, and I'd sacrifice space for speed.

Besides that, I think the case could be cheaper, but it may require a sale, such as this case that is currently $17 cheaper than the current one.

Hell, even at that price, you could justify getting a 240 GB Adata and another 480 GB Adata for 720 GB of SSD space for cheaper than this current build, unless the user wants to up their budget a little bit to get something like a 1 TB Crucial MX500 that's currently $99 on amazon.

Besides that though, I don't think there's much you can do.

u/SwingLifeAway93 · 3 pointsr/PS4

External enclosure

Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT1000MX500SSD1(Z)

u/padmanek · 3 pointsr/hardware

Actually scrap that, on German Amazon it's for 127.41 EUR = 112.86 GBP

It's a steal for this price

u/RiftBladeMC · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Solid State Drive, it is many times faster than your hdd, (Hard Disk Drive), and it WILL make your computer feel many times faster.

Edit: Your motherboard doesn't have a M.2 slot, so you will have to get a Sata SSD (Such as the WD Blue or the Samsung 860 Evo)

Edit 2: You could get a M.2 to PCIe adapter and a decent NVMe SSD (Such as the Intel 660p), this is by far the best option.

u/Cdenbaas · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Honestly.... pick up a refurb mass produced computer such as an optiplex or the like and throw an SSD in there. Not sure of availability in india, but that is usually the way to go for cheap builds.

Ninja edit- something like this...

Ninja edit2- ....with this in it

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 3 pointsr/ApplyingToCollege

/r/SuggestALaptop is an entire community dedicated to keeping up to date on the latest models and deals on laptops.

I highly encourage you to go ask there.


I am a huge fan of refurbished Lenovo ThinkPad T-series laptops.
These are exceptionally well-made devices renowned for long service lives.

This T430, i4, 8GB, 128GB SSD, 14" @ $219

Might be all you need if all you intend to use is Windows + MS-Office.
You can expand your internal storage by replacing that little 128GB SSD with something like this:

Samsung EVO 2.5" 512GB @ $78


Or, if you really don't want to have to take a screwdriver to a "brand new" laptop, spend a few extra dollars on this:

Refurbished ThinkPad T450, 14", i5, 8GB, 256GB SSD @ $375

Yeah, I know, $375 is getting really close to what you could pay for a brand-new, low-end laptop.
I guaran-damned-tee you that T450 will blow the doors off of any comparable consumer-grade $400 to $600 device you can buy at Best Buy.

Five or six years after you buy it, that T450 will still be ready for more work, while that Acer that looked so nice in the store will be missing keys, with a wonky hinge and a power brick that you have to hold at an angle to charge your laptop.

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 3 pointsr/applehelp

First of all stop using it and shut the computer down. If the drive is on the verge of failing, which it sounds like it is, you don't want to push it over the edge.

Remove the drive from the computer following this guide, put that drive into one of these and connect it to another computer. You can then pull off all of the photos, etc.

While you still have the mac open, put one of these in it. From there just install a fresh copy of Mac OS and you'll be back in action with a computer that will be noticeably faster. It's like night and day performance wise.

u/trandav · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I think he means Amazon has had it on sale at this price for a while. It looks like since August 19th.

u/PKarnes · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I am going to add an SSD when I change my computer into a new Fractal R4. Here's the post I made about that:

I plan to use this SSD:

Is there anything else I should worry about when switching cases? My current case is a mid tower as well. I've been a little worried about my computer running hot, so I am trying out a new case. Should I go ahead and upgrade the CPU cooler as well? Or is that Zalman CPU cooler sufficient?

Thanks for the help.

u/Istealunderwear · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Spend money on the GPU rather than CPU. The CPU is totally fine for gaming.

Ssd would be good, but i'd say go with the gpu, you can ALWAYS add the ssd later.

also tbh, you could save money on hardisk. You could nearly get this ssd: and get and this hardisk for the price 20-30+ Euro. And that's a 256gb ssd and 1tb hardisk.

u/Mr_Ected · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

You can get a pretty nice SSD for a damn good price. I threw one of these in my old ThinkPad and now that thing flies! It's definitely worth the $110.

Once you go SSD it's hard to go back.

u/significantGecko · 3 pointsr/buildapc

personnaly I would go for a 256 Gb version, as I feel like my own 120 GB is too small already.

The 256 GB runs around 70-80 GBP, while 128 GB run about 50-58 GBP.

Samsung EVO 850, and the crucial MX 100 seem to be the best ones around that price point at the moment.

u/thissiteisbroken · 3 pointsr/reactiongifs

Get a Crucial MX100. I bought it a couple months ago. It's awesome. My PC boots up in about 5 seconds with Win8.

u/jesse9o3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Crucial MX100 256GB

It's slightly above £70 but if you go below that you're looking at 120GB SSDs at around £50 and that is far too small.

u/Stingray88 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

SSDs will provide little to no performance difference in games aside from faster loading times. Of course this depends the game, some could benefit from an SSD but most will not. The SSD would make general performance of the operating system and applications far more responsive.

Your Mac Pro doesn't have USB 3.0, so unless you have an internal PCIe USB 3.0 card you wouldn't be able to use a USB 3.0 SSD. And that's assuming that you are really talking about a Mac Pro... you don't have a Macbook Pro, do you? As that can't use USB 3.0 at all. But either way I wouldn't recommend the one you found as it's not a very fast SSD. Good internal SSDs are not any more expensive than an external one, in fact external (of the same performance) is probably going to be more expensive.

I would suggest either this 128GB for $62 or this 256GB for $104. These are some of the best value SSDs you can get. Very fast, very reliable.

There isn't really a performance difference between an SSD on SATA III 6Gbps and USB 3.0. Even some of the fastest SSD won't saturate the bandwidth available on either. However for simplicity sake, it's a lot better to just boot off the SSD internally. You don't want to have to boot to USB 3.0 all the time.

u/archover · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I can mainly speak to Thinkpads. You can easily substitute your own drive without voiding the warranty. I think it would be advisable to hold onto the original hd in case of warranty work.

A 256GB is cheap these days, like this one:

Take a look at the Thinkpad line, from best to least good: T, L, E.

u/ZuluZuluZuluZulu · 3 pointsr/apple
u/libertyski12 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's almost always worthwhile to build your own system, but if you aren't I would recommend something like this:

It's open box but it has a better processor and better graphics card for slightly less than the one you chose. I would also recommend throwing in an SSD as a boot drive. It makes a world of difference.

These Sandisk ones are some of the cheapest and most reliable

u/Fat_Ass_Reddit · 3 pointsr/mac

Depending on your budget, I would recommend to max it out and basically turn it into the server version. Replace the HD with a SSD, and max out the RAM at 16 GB:

120 GB SSD


If the RAM is too much money, you can honestly do just fine with 8 GB RAM for half the cost.

The RAM is the easiest to replace, the drive takes a little more time but their are tons of videos and resources on and OWC.

If you want to take it a step further, you can buy the [DIY Dual Drive Kit] ( and use the SSD as your boot drive, while still being able to use the 1TB for storage.

I've done all this myself and use my mini as a server that is on 24/7.

u/seanlax5 · 3 pointsr/GrandTheftAutoV_PC

What? No. Get this (or something similar):

An external hard drive might end up being worse than your current setup. This should change your PC experience completely.

u/thefanum · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

Sure, here's a super cheap SSD of equivalent capacity:

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-240G-G26

If you want to get a different SSD, just make sure it's a 2.5in SATA. I like SanDisk, Samsung and Intel brand SSD's.

Here's a 4gb Stick that should be compatible (don't hold me to that, and make sure you can return it if it isn't):

Lenovo 55Y3711 RAM Module - 4 GB - DDR3 SDRAM - 1333MHz DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 - ECC - 204-pin SoDIMM

That will get you up to 8GB or 6GB, depending on if it comes with 1 4gb or 2 2gb sticks. Either will be better than 4.

And here's some generic info and resources I like to give new Linux users:

The biggest change from the Windows world will be the different interfaces to choose from. While they're one of the best features of Linux, the number of choices and strong opinions on the matter can be overwhelming to new users. And everyone in the community is certain that theirs is the best. Don't stress out about picking the "right" one. You can always change it later (especially if you choose something Ubuntu based). Pick one that has a large user base, good community, and excellent documentation.

Linux comes in many different flavors, or "Distributions". Often shortened to "Distros". The most obvious difference between Distros is the interface (or "Desktop Environment" or "DE"). It's not the only thing that sets them apart, but it's the most noticeable.

I would recommend Ubuntu or any one of it's variants. The best variants (in my opinion) are Linux mint and Linux Lite. Linux Lite having the most "Windows like" interface. Linux Lite also has additional tools to install common programs that Windows users are accustomed to. Ones that don't come with other Distros by default.

Until recently Ubuntu used an interface called "Unity". As of the last couple of releases, they have switched to Gnome. However, they've made gnome look a lot like Unity, so you should be able to follow instructions you find on the internet without too much trouble.

Gnome has a ton of customizations available via the "Gnome extensions" website. If you're willing to relearn how to interact with your computer's interface, it's a good fit for someone who wants customization.

Here's a good article with the basics of getting up and running with Ubuntu.

Here's Ubuntu's website for downloading and documentation:

The official "Getting starting" guide:

Here's the list of official Ubuntu Distributions:

Here's a great article explaining the difference between the official Ubuntu Distribution (written by an awesome Redditor Killyourfm):

"Forbes: Linux For Beginners: Understanding The Many Versions Of Ubuntu":

Here's the official install guide:

An install guide for Dual Booting:

And here's Linux Lite's official page:

Gnome extensions:

u/Viznab88 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Highly recommend you skip the 500GB HDD and go with a smaller SSD. It's going to be dog-slow on a conventional drive with boot times in the absolute shitter, even if it's got a tiny bit of hybrid cache, and that is a ridiculously expensive drive for only 500GB too.

For instance this one or even this will be a million times better and is the absolute must-change for this build.

She can always get an external drive for large cheap slow storage once she runs out of space.

u/bluthru · 2 pointsr/applehelp

If you're doing video editing, you'll definitely benefit from maxing out your RAM.

Regarding the SSD, you can either pay a lot of money for a large one, or you can buy a smaller one and offload your music and other video files onto an external HD. You'll have to determine how much storage space you need.

This is a good one:

Not all SSD's are created equal. Some don't last as long as others. You'll have to research them to see what brands people trust.

Also, be sure to enable TRIM with this utility:

u/Alan150003 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

How soon do you plan on building this? If you can wait a couple months the NVIDIA GTX 880 will be out soon, and it's supposed to be around the price of the 770 when it came out (about $400, US). This is probably the worst time of the year to build a computer. Devil's Canyon and Z97 did just come out, but Intel is still do for X99 and Haswell-E, NVIDIA is releasing Maxwell, and AMD probably has some stuff being announced soon.

Otherwise it looks good, the only things I would change would be the power supply (for an EVGA SuperNOVA), the motherboard (to something from ASUS), I would maybe get a cheaper SSD as the 850 Pro series don't really offer much more for the premium. An 840 EVO or a Crucial MX100 of the same price would be the optimal as far as price/performance. I would also recommend against getting a 7.1 headset, I've tried them and they're terrible, as an alternative I'd get a cheap pair of studio headphones like the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 and a desktop microphone.

Edit 1: I would recommend getting a case with better airflow as well. Something like the Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a good value case with much better airflow, and has a nice aesthetic.

u/faysel3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

All right then, you do what I did, my budget was almost identical to yours, Link to my build post please note that i'm in the uk and parts are more expensive

Go for an AMD build similar to mine with your GPU, Because your GPU kicks my GPU's ass, PRO tip Buy your parts over the course of a month,prices rise and fall and you wanna buy when cheap, set up price alerts on pcpartpicker, when a certain product goes below a certain price it will e-mail you, Check Amazon marketplace. It might say for example: 18 new from £75.44 like Here, almost every time, you will find the product cheaper than what pcpartpicker is telling you. Also if you are getting an ssd, get the one I linked, I own the same one and its very cheap and very good, if not maybe go for samsung 840 evo for a little more cost.

Slightly more riskier tip: check out ebay. But only from reputable sellers, make sure to take into account the delivery costs, that can be a mistake that takes you over budget when buying parts and also paying more than you thought.

Last but not least, check reviews for every single product you buy, every single one...and from multiple sources. It's your money, be wise about it, a fool and his money are soon parted.

Good luck ;)

u/a-nexus · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Bennyboy1337 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Or spend $5 more and get a 256gb Crucial MX100 that is faster and has 16gb more in space.

u/minerva330 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/guiscard · 2 pointsr/editors

If you're looking at SSDs on, they're having specials all week. This one was available earlier when I checked. It seems to have a waitlist now, but 256 will give you more breathing room.

An SSD will definitely make everything feel much snappier, but I would really suggest a larger one if you want to work on files from the SSD.

u/fourdots · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

The most cost-effective option would be to buy and install an SSD yourself (the 256GB Crucial MX100 is routinely around $110). But anyways, here's what I suggest doing:

In the mSATA SSD Drive (slot 1) section, select "128GB Crucial M550 M.2 mSATA SSD - Preconfigured as an OS Drive ( Operating System – Drive C: )" for $120. They'll install the OS onto it, 128GB is enough for your OS, programs and a handful of games (perhaps a very large handful, if you're not into modern AAA titles), and you won't have to do any configuration beyond turning the computer on.

As far as saving money goes, there isn't much that you can give up on that particular model. You could maybe get the OS cheaper elsewhere, especially if you're a student, and you could buy and install an SSD yourself (which is much easier than it sounds, as long as you know how to use a screwdriver), but other than that the only real way to reduce the price would be stepping down to a weaker GPU.

u/mistermagicman · 2 pointsr/applehelp

If you have the original hard drive from 2011, it's possible that it's starting to wear out and slow down, even if Onyx says it's healthy. One of the best upgrades you can do for any computer is replacing your hard drive with a solid state drive, as they are much faster, and your hard drive is probably the bottleneck for everything your computer does.

If you can use a screwdriver and you're gentle, you can replace a macbook hard drive, it's incredibly easy in that model.

Price-wise, you can get 250GB for just over $100 ($130 or $110 being popular options) or 512GB for about $200 ($199 or $239). For your average consumer, the crucial is fine.

Here are some instructions on replacing it.

Good luck. Since you reinstalled OS X, I doubt there's much wrong on the software side. This upgrade really will give you a nice speed bump.

u/hrbuchanan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's strange, because it has 5-star almost-flawless reviews at Newegg. In fact, now that I look at it, Amazon's reviews are overwhelmingly 5-star as well! And it comes with a 3 year warranty regardless.

Source on reviews

u/bdt13334 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get this 256GB SSD

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

You are looking for a NUC or compact HTCP mini PC.

u/DJ_EDG3 · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

Not weird at all--I'll provide Amazon links for your convenience!

The ASUS Zenbook UX305 has an MSRP of $700, but the potential issue is that it's not an i5. The Core M in this is about as powerful as an i3, but that should be sufficient for many uses in combination with the 256 GB SSD and the 8 GB of RAM. [Also, it's currently selling for $850 on Amazon. A $150 markup? Eff that--for that price, get the faster computer listed below]

The Zenbook UX303 has an updated version with a 5th-gen i5 for $850. The claimed battery life is 8 hours, and it'll be fast, thin, and portable. It should be a good option for you, unless you're into hardcore gaming or something. But a $700 Yoga probably wouldn't be any better at that...

If you want to try Lenovo again, the Ideapad Flex 14 is a good option at $800. It bends 270 degrees, rather than 360, but it comes with an i5, 8 GB of RAM, an SSD, and an HD screen. This should be a good option, and Lenovo generally scores well for reliability--not sure what happened on your Yoga.

Another 360-degree hinge option is the ASUS Transformer Book Flip. For $750, you get the Yoga's flexibility, as well as a 5th-gen i5, 8 GB of RAM, a 1 TB hard drive, and a 1080p screen. (Note that the i7 option has a lower-res screen, however). I have an ASUS Flip (a cheaper i3 version), and I can tell you from experience that it's pretty well-built, with aluminum surfaces except the plastic on the bottom panel, and it has a sturdy hinge. The trackpad is just OK, and the laptop picks up fingerprints like nobody's business--but everything else on this machine is nice. I can recommend it with confidence!

If you're looking to spend even less, the Toshiba Satellite L55-B5276 is going for around $560 on Amazon, and it comes with a 4th-gen i5 (the Broadwell processors are just coming out, so there's not a ton of variety). The Satellite also has 8 GB of RAM and a 1 TB hard drive, and the screen is the standard resolution of 1366 x 768--nothing special, but good enough. With the extra credit you have, you can buy a 256 GB SSD like this Crucial MX100, clone the old hard drive to your new SSD and install it yourself, and this will improve both responsiveness and battery life. That's probably the best deal you can get for the money, but I understand not wanting to mess around with the cloning process.

Good luck to you!

u/al4nw31 · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

The other one has a 768p screen instead of a 1080p.

SSDs are solid state drives. They use flash memory instead of a spinning disk, and are massive performance boosters. They'll make your laptop feel incredible. They cost about $0.30-$0.40 per gigabyte right now. A 256GB runs about $100, when on sale.

Here's an example of a nice one:

You have to open the hard drive bay and remove the old hard drive and install the new one. You will then need to use a desktop (or prepare beforehand) an OS boot drive. You will then have to download this, and then install Windows 8.1 64-bit (NOT PRO) on a USB. Then boot to the USB and reinstall Windows.

u/UnrealFlame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It's hard to get a 256GB SSD for under $100, but arguably, 2 of the best SSDs at the moment are just above that price mark. The Crucial MX100 is $105, and the slightly higher priced but slightly better Samsung 850 Evo is $115.

u/MichaelAmbrosi · 2 pointsr/mac

Hello, I installed a 256 GB Crucial SSD and 8GB of RAM into my 2011 MacBook Pro 15" and the computer flies after that. Huge improvement. Almost all the programs open immediately, you can have a bunch of anything you want open (within reason). Here are the exact items I bought: RAM and SSD.

Crucial has since updated the SSDs, here is a newer model.

u/because_technologies · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't understand how you are on the fence about a SSD over a HDD (unless it it capacity/cost issue). Just get it. It seems like you need every possible excuse to justify your purchase.

u/marekh · 2 pointsr/apple

For the most part SSDs are ready to replace hard drives. The speed increase from switching to flash memory from spinning rust is worth the capacity tradeoff. Unless you're one of a few groups that really need 1TB of space in your laptop, SSDs are cheap enough to be used instead.

I got a Crucial 256GB SSD for my MacBook to replace the spinning drive in it last year and it's performed very nicely for a very reasonable cost. They have a 512 GB as well that's a bit faster, and not too much more.

Also, as a PSA: These SSDs don't need TRIM enabled. The controller on the SSD handles the garbage collection just fine on its own. A lot of SSDs now handle it fine as well. Feel free to turn it on as it won't hurt anything or degrade performance, but on these SSDs it doesn't help either. Plus it saves you the pain of fighting with 3rd party TRIM support on Yosemite and whatever's next.

u/CNex · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

CPU | Intel Pentium G4560 | € 63.89 @ /
Memory | Crucial 8GB (2x 4GB, 2133MHz, CL15) DDR4-DIMM Kit | € 49,99 @
Storage | 1TB Seagate Desktop HDD ST1000DM003 32MB 3.5" (8.9cm) | € 46,94 @
SSD | SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Sata III | € 49,99 @
Video Card | 4GB ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti Mini | € 149,48 @
Power Supply | 450 Watt XFX Core Edition V2 Non-Modular 80+ Bronze | € 44,52 @
Case Fans | Fractal Design Venturi HP-12 PWM | € 16,56 @

Case | BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower | € 33,44 @
Case | Neos Midi-Tower - white / red | € 37,90 / 45 @ Caseking
Case | BitFenix Prodigy M red | € 79,85 @ Caseking

Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B250M-D2V Intel B250 DVI / VGA | € 66,10 @
Motherboard | MSI B250M PRO-VD Intel B250 DVI / VGA | € 71,22 @
Motherboard | MSI B250M PRO-VH HDMI / VGA | € 73,56 @
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H Intel B250 So VGA / DVI / HDMI | € 77,21 @
| Total Cheapest | € 490,82
| Total Priciest | € 548,43

For cases I recommend to have 1-2 intake fans on the front and 1 exhaust fan on the back.
If you don't mind spending for 60+ € cases feel free to look at cases from Fractal Design, Corsair or Phanteks. Case and PSU are parts you can usually take over for a new rig and you should'nt feel sorry for spending that much. PSU especially is the most important part of your rig.

You can spend the rest of the 50€ for a 240-275GB SSD, Sapphire RX 470 Nitro, Corsair Vengeance 400W, Windows 10 or a Monitor.
Shipping for free at 12am to 6am Mindfactory

Memory and SSDs went up in price recently and won't fall anytime soon.

u/DK3141 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Your choice of cpu and gpu should last you for a good while for playing at 1080p 60fps with high settings.

Go for it and enjoy your build :)

EDIT: If possible, try to squeeze in a SSD for about 40€ to solely install your windows os on it.

The boot time will be night and day compared to a HDD. Furthermore you can install all your steam games etc on your HDD and if something went wrong with your windows system, just reinstall it on the SSD without downloading everything again afterwards.

u/KaineOrAmarov · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Amazon doesn't have a lot of options, and tbh they're kind of overpriced. But the CS1311 and SSD Plus aren't bad, only about $5 over their usual prices.

u/glowinghamster45 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

On Win 7, I would try to get at least 4 gigs of ram if possible, but it ultimately depends on what you're doing with it. Use Crucial's system scanner tool to see exactly how much it can handle and what type of ram it takes. It could be dirt cheap to upgrade it, it could be expensive.

I know you just replaced that hdd, but I would have recommended looking at doing an ssd instead. If its still an option, doing something like this can make a world of difference in older machines. Anything that involves the hard drive is significantly faster. So faster boot times, snappier system performance, and it's all around just better.

If you get 4 gigs of ram loaded into it, you can also use your win 7 product key to activate 10 on a clean installation and breathe some new life into it. I wouldn't recommend 10 on 2 gigs of ram though.

Also, since you used acer recovery discs, did you end up with a clean installation? Or did it reinstall factory bloat? That can make a big difference.

u/aicessi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have a similar build from 2011 It's OC to 3.8 and is air cooled. This SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Solid State Drive (SDSSDA-120G-G26) [Newest Version] is 49.99 at

u/1point5volts · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I can sell you my old one for $40 if you're in the atlanta area :D

otherwise, this one looks good:

u/kevp453 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you can swing for it, or wait and save a bit more I would really recommend getting an SSD. It really is night and day performance for booting Windows, launching applications, and loading games.
Personally I refuse to ever buy another computer that doesn't have the OS on an SSD. Even if you only get 120 GB or so it would be worth it.
This isn't too bad for the price:

u/greydrake42 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $109.67 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-DVS/D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.00 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $44.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card | $142.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $49.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $597.62
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-02 06:55 EDT-0400 |

I own an i3 6100, and the hyper threading makes such a difference.The Nvidia 1050ti is a fairly new card meaning that it won't go out of fashion in a hurry, but I have heard good things about the AMD rx 470. I don't really know much about AMD, but a 1050ti suits me just fine. The case is nice and small, and I think the only reason that the OS is so expensive, is because it's from an online shop. You can probably find a better deal in store perhaps, I'm not sure. An SSD would be impossible with the current budget, but if you're really desperate, you could swap the hard drive for one, and then get a large hard drive at a later date to store everything on, if you feel that you can survive with less space for a while. In that case, may I recommend this.
The price is the same, but it's only 120gb. So maybe a couple of games installed at a time, until you get the biggie. I've got a pretty similar build, and it can run most things. Good luck!

EDIT However, after a little bit more research, I've seen people go nuts over this thing:. It's a little slower than an i3 6100, but much cheaper. It does have hyper-threading. BUT you may need to reconsider the motherboard, as PC Part picker says you need to mess with bios updates ect ect...

u/aznofchaos · 2 pointsr/overclocking

Here is a decent one. There are better out there, but prices vary. I spent a little time to source and this is the best I found as of today.

u/whydoyouaskmethat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

HDD is better "dollar value," SSD is dramatically better performance for load times, general feel, etc. But if value is most important, you can get 3TBs for < $100, easily.

If you don't need space, this is the best 250 GB SDD for < $100.

Or both: SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB + Seagate 1TB BarraCuda for roughly $98.

u/Jessenstein · 2 pointsr/buildapc
SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB Solid State Drive is the more popular choice for that size. Anything by samsung is good too.

Build looks good. well thought out.

u/FireMochiMC · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nope not really, I'd add an ssd if you can afford it,

$50 will get you this

You can stick your main games and os on there for much better boot times and loading screens

u/SaevaIndignatioCor · 2 pointsr/thinkpad
u/Lonxu · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I think I'd go with the Sandisk as it's cheaper now. Not sure there's really all that much performance difference.

u/MNightShyamalan69 · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

Thank you. What about this one?

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26

u/largepanda · 2 pointsr/buildapc

hint: put a newline between a quote and your response so it doesn't become part of the quote

> like this

like this

> like this

like this


u/ENTPilot · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

Even 240GB will work. But, I believe that's the absolute bare minimum. Bought this guy along with an enclosure and it's been working like a dream:

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26

u/Trey5169 · 2 pointsr/computers

What are you trying to do on this laptop? If the load times kill you, a simple SSD upgrade could be your cup of tea, but this depends on how much storage you need.

The TL;DR here is that a HDD is slow but cheap. You can get a 1 TB HDD for $45 (Note that a 3.5 inch drive is for desktops, and a 2.5 inch drive is for laptops.) But because of the price difference of SSDs, you get about half the storage at twice the price. So if you're storing word documents, and maybe even excel documents, then you can get a small SSD and be done with it. But if you're storing videos or pictures en mass, you most likely can't afford to sacrifice the storage space / price, which means you have to deal with the slower HDD.

Edit: To answer your other question - Buying a used desktop shouldn't be a problem, especially if you're on a very tight budget. But if you can afford it, this seems to be a good computer for the price. You could remove the optical drive (cd / dvd drive) to install a SSD if you want, and have a very small & cheap SSD for boot and programs, and a large SSD for storage. Of course realize that this purchase does not include peripherals, so you'd need to budget for a separate monitor, keyboard, and mouse at minimum. Maybe a PCI-e wifi card or something similar if you need wireless access.

u/RickyShade · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nice. Though 120GB isn't space for much. Windows, apps, and ONE big game is all you could fit on there. For only a $25 more you can double the size:

u/NSDCars5 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  1. You could try some data recovering guides, like this one. Or if you don't want to take any risks (if the data is really important) you could go to a data recovery specialist, but that's going to cost a fair bit.

  2. There are some services that let you stream games from a cloud service - that is, the game plays on their servers and a client takes input from you. This is plagued with latency issues though. As for loading game files from the cloud, I don't think this has been done so far, and even if it had, the loading times would be abysmal and eat up your bandwidth like crazy.

  3. I've heard you can't go wrong with anything from SanDisk, Crucial or Silicon Power. In fact, I've been eyeing this one as an upgrade to my own rig. If you want to go cheaper you can go 120GB, but that isn't going to leave much room for games if your only other drive is 47GB.
u/BaltimoresJandro · 2 pointsr/RingOfElysium

I mean its 2018 guys....SSDs are cheap now. No reason to uninstall this game cause your running out of storage space.

860 EVO with 500gb for $87

> Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)

Or for a cheaper option...a 240gb Sandisk for $48

> SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26

u/Mrfrodough · 2 pointsr/buildapc

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-240G-G26

Seems fairly well reviewed and tons of space for the $. There is a 120gb version but it's only 7 dollars cheaper.

u/osfrid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Finally, after all these reviews, i'm going to buy these pieces and build my masterpiece-wannabe.

I would like to thanks /u/Raffles7683 for his dedicated, nice and smart help ! Also, thanks to /u/DIK-FUK and /u/golli123.

That's it, the final configuration, which is 2€ cheaper than the first one. WHAT A SAVE. But it's all the way better. I finally picked a I7-6700k as a CPU since nobody seems to know at which point a I5-6600k will bottleneck the GTX 1080, even with a 4.5 Ghz overclock. The debate is running litteraly everywhere and no one has the same point of view. So... I guess i can throw 100€ by the window to be sure and to overlock a i7 to 4.4 Ghz.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU |Intel Core i7-6700K | €325.79 -
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | €34.99 -
Motherboard | Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €109.61 -
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €126.04 -
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €74.00 -
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €53.44 -
Video Card | KFA2 GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB Video Card | €560.00 - French shop
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | €76.32 -
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €78.99 -
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | €48.00 -
Monitor | Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | €699.90 - French shop
| Total | €2187.08

  • The CPU has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review and /u/DIK-FUK's build suggest. And updated, because no one knows what is a bottleneck, in real world.
  • The RAM / SSD has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review, again.
  • The case has been edited according to /u/golli123's review

    I will provide some news in the future with, probably, in build photos :)
u/ee_or_nothing · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I'd searched a couple of days ago, but this has a year of warranty left. On this machine, you could install an FHD screen, throw in a decent SSD, add a new 9-cell battery, and still have a bit of money left :)

You could also add in a quad core i7 somewhere down the line if needed. the CPU can be swapped. I'm a bit busy right now, but, I'll come back with more options later in the day.

u/C018Y_ · 2 pointsr/computers

For in between $500 and $550, I would take a look at the ASUS VivoBook F510UA. It's a 15.6" laptop with an i5-8250U, 8GB of DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD, and is only 0.8" thick and 3.7lbs. Unfortunately, the configuration to add a 128GB SSD is an extra $100 for some reason, but if you aren't happy with the HDD's speed, it has an M.2 slot that you can utilize to add an SSD, or just remove the HDD altogether and put in a 2.5" SSD.
250GB M.2 SSD:
240GB 2.5" SSD:

u/Mirthless92 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I ended up going with this 240 gb SanDisk (new version) for $78.99 on amazon. Specs out pretty much the same as the 850 evo.

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Phil found your post on ifixit and I wholeheartedly agree with that assessment....with the exception of this:


Take it to a shop or PM and I can give you some links to a few programs that MIGHT be able to read the hard drive (HDD) and hopefully recover things off of it. You will need a USB or an external HDD to put those files on to it.

If you do need another drive I recommend a SSD (Solid State Drive) as they are much more efficient / faster / life longer / and can make an older computer feel brand new :).

I'd recommend this one (SSD if you don't need a ton of storage space of course). If you need a HDD then I'd say this one.

EDIT - you MIGHT be able to access Windows again but you need to access the BIOS, that is what the toshiba setup utility is. So if you access your BIOS (typically turn the computer on and spam the crap out of F11 / F12 / delete all at the same will either bring up a one time boot menu which has bios near the bottom OR it will go right into bios).

Once you are in the bios you can choose the correct boot device with the arrow keys.

Any DVD/CD or USB flash drive inserted? Remove and try booting again :)

u/Tony49UK · 2 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

Sandisk 240GB internal SSD £61.99 20% off.

Ends at 15:30 11% gone at 12:08.

u/fog_bank · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Been lurking for a bit, never posted. I’m attempting my first build in 15 years so I have a question that I’m not sure warrants it’s own post so I’m bringing it here.

Looking to do things on a tight budget so I’m going the seemingly tried and true optiplex upgrade route. I’m looking at the following at the moment:

Dell Optiplex 9010(Intel Core i7-3770) or 9020(Intel Core i7-4770), and hopefully having 16gb ram off, EBay and adding the following:

Gpu: GTX 1060 6gb used off EBay

EVGA 450 BT 80+ Bronze 450w psu

SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB

What am I missing as far as issues/conflicts etc? Will I be bottlenecking my cpu with the 1060? Is there a better build within a $100-$150 range that I should be considering? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be great.

u/highedutechsup · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yup your right.

Without knowing your CPU/memory and or financial budget it is hard to say. But you probably want something off this list.

Personally I would just sell the whole HP desktop on Ebay as some old person will probably buy it for a couple three hundred. Then you can just add that money to the ~$100 you would have spend on a mobo. So you are at about $300-400...add a couple cnotes and you should be able to build a decent rig around that 1050.

| part | price |
| mobo | $50 |
| cpu | $120 |
| ram | $85 |
| disk | $140 |
| ps | $40 |
| case | $40 |
| Total | $475 |

or go get a pcmasterrace build kabylake builds (I think the mobo prices are still too high)

(edit: to fix link)

u/Rayezilla · 2 pointsr/buildapc

a few thoughts: why 6th gen and not 7th gen? If you're on windows 10, I'd get 7th gen. Speaking of windows 10, I don't see a windows license, they're about $100 on amazon. Make sure you get 64 bit.

SSDs are worth it. You can drop the 1TB spinny and get a decent 525GB SSD for an extra $100.

edit: psimwork's build is solid too

u/BenderRodriguez14 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Only real criticism would be paying $249 for a 256GB SSD when you could have had 525GB for $100 less, or 1TB for $15 more

Still, only a minor issue given how much storage you have and otherwise that's a pretty eye watering build!

u/Astealoth · 2 pointsr/wow

I would put a GTX 1050 ti in there to get the most out of your A10 CPU. The integrated graphics can run WoW but it's not ideal. GTX 1050 ti is really ideal here, going much higher and you're looking at noticing the limitations of your CPU too often. Your A10 is fine for it's price, but it's not really in the same class with GTX 1060 and higher, those are best paired with a Haswell or Skylake quad. A balanced system will run consistently, whereas an unbalanced system will run very well in some titles and comparatively not very well in others.

SSD would definitely be the second best upgrade, check out Crucial's new MX300 for really good price per gig and a good solid product with acceptable speeds. If you get a 1050 ti and a 525gb MX300 you're looking at like $260 ish to make that thing scream.

u/BigSerene · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There's not much performance difference gaming-wise between the 1600 and 1700. Note that either of these comes with a Wraith Spire CPU fan, which is very good and fairly quiet. You don't need to pay for a separate AIO cooler (unless you just want one anyway).

There's not much real-world difference between a good 2.5" SATA III SSD and an M.2 NVMe SSD, despite the large difference in specs. In my most recent upgrade, I went from a Samsung 840 EVO SSD to a 960 EVO NVMe M.2. It's pretty hard to tell the difference, unless you do a lot of very large file transfers every day.

You could cut cost by getting a Crucial MX300 525 GB SSD ($160 on Amazon) as your boot drive and something like a 1 TB Caviar Blue.

u/DigitalX19901 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/rebelsoul94 · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

this says 41.22 usd for shipping the same ssd but 525gb

u/cyclopicmonkey · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Adding the ram will definitely improve performance. 4gb isn't enough to run the newer OS well. You'd have to get all new 2x4gb sodimm 1333 Mhz ram since there are only two slots.
Depending on how much money you want to put into it, an SSD will also improve performance greatly. You'll have apps open almost instantly.
You won't see a change in performance with a new battery, but you won't have to keep it plugged in constantly.

After these improvements you'd spend around 200 bucks. For that laptop its definitely worth it, you won't get better performance for that price. Don't expect to be doing major gaming, but you can do quite a bit on it.
You could always sell it. You'd be hard pressed to find something with similar performance with the few hundred bucks you'd make but you could put that towards something better.

SSD $128
RAM $49.99
Battery $59.99

I've used all of these they work well:




u/steamprocessing · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Also $150 but with free shipping on Amazon, temporarily out of stock though

u/SnugglesSoft · 2 pointsr/xboxone

For those wanting something like this without spending $199

"SSD is going run $199 for 512GB" - case I use and have 0 issues with for a year now - $12.99 - An "upgraded" version of the case that is aluminum and $3 less - current lowest price on a decent 500+GB SSD from Amazon $118.71. It's a Crucial MX300. You can shop around here, Samsung 850 evo's are a little more expensive but very reliable.

It's literally plug and play with that case. Comes with the cables and no need to do anything fancy. Just insert drive into case, no screws to use and plug it into the Xbox One with the cord that comes with the case.

u/x_Sligh_x · 2 pointsr/buildapc

SSD = solid state drive. A hard drive with no moving parts, and all flash based memory. Considerably faster than standard HDD. Samsung and Intel are considered the "fastest", most reliable SSD's and charge a premium. Other brands are close to as fast, and are considerably cheaper.

For instance you can find a 500GB Samsung drive for about $170, whereas you can get a Crucial 525GB drive for less than $130. Both would be viable options. All depends what you want to spend and how much room you want to have on your drive.

u/itsflashpoint · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/anaesthetic · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon










  11. This one is actually difficult because I am single and have never met my father, but my friend Ben is an amazing human being who has bought me countless burgers and bottles o' booze and a super cool nerd who teaches me all sorts of things, so he'd appreciate this.









u/MonsieurGuigui · 2 pointsr/france

Les PC-builders de /r/france, c'est ma première config tour : vous en pensez quoi / quelles conneries ai-je fait ?
(il me faut encore un clavier, si vous avez des conseils)

CPU | Intel Core i7-6700k 4GHz | 362,61 € @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Artic Freezer i11 | 21,99 € @ Amazon France
Motherboard | Asus Z170 Pro Gaming | 148,71 € @ Amazon France
Memory | Corsair 16GB (2 x 8Go) DDR4-2400 Memory | 135,99 € @ Amazon France
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | 142,06 € @ Amazon France
Storage | Western Digital Blue 2To 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | 69,90 € @ Amazon France
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8Go G1 | 451,14 € @ Amazon France
Case | Fractal Design Core 2500 Black | 64,89 € @ Amazon France
Power Supply | FSP S750W 80+ | 75,59 € @ Amazon France
OS | W10 Famille| 99,99 € @ Amazon France
| Prix amazon |
| Total | 1572,87 €

(Ping /u/Prostberg car tu as l'air de t'y connaître)

u/TheIncarnated · 2 pointsr/ManjaroLinux

It's a field I dabble in. I have personally gotten the crucial SSD this one specifically:

I also looked at the Western Digital 500gb. Everyone swears by Samsung. I just think it's overpriced.

u/sashadkiselev · 2 pointsr/buildapc

that is a very valid point but if you wanted very crazy speed you probably should have gone with NVMe.
But even at that the performance is not very noticable between normal SATA and NVME even at 5x the benchmark speed, I highly doubt it would be noticable between two SATA III drives since they saturate the SATA bandwidth easily

u/rssnjw · 2 pointsr/buildapc

What would be the better option between these two SSDs?

Samsung 2.5" 256GB

Samsung M.2 250GB

I've tried to do research on the topic and it seems like M.2 are the faster option; for the same price it seems like I should go with the latter option, but what are the pros/cons of going with a 2.5" vs M.2? Are there other SSDs that come highly recommended in this price range?

u/Taymurf · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

I got this NUC i5 with this 16GB RAM (though it was on a sale when I got it), and this SSD which is crazy fast.

As far as storage space goes, I have only used about 6gb of storage space on my SSD because of how incredibly lightweight the ubuntu server .iso is and that is while I'm running all of the things I mentioned. I have a Synology DS918+ that houses all of my media files for plex and I would be able to use that as an offsite storage by mounting it in ubuntu if I ever needed more space (which I doubt I will).

The NUC that I linked is the tall version which means that you can add in that SSD as the bootdrive for lightning fast speeds and then it also has space for a 2.5" drive as well so you could add a 4TB HDD or whatever else you would choose, and you could also use external storage through USB 3.0 (I keep a 128gb USB backup plugged in at all times that I use to backup important files (automated through home assistant to get my entire config every night) in case of any failure.

u/Anwhaz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Bam 250 gigs of stupid fast storage for ~100 bucks. And if you don't have an M.2 on your motherboard you can always get a PCIe riser for like 15-25 bucks.

u/deaf_fennec · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

If you're wanting to be fully satisfied, I'd get this and forgo the 2 hard drives he's listed. It's a bit small, at 250, but you'll be able to fit several titles on it before you need to worry about a storage drive and it's blazing fast for about the same price. It'll plug right into that Gigabyte mobo he has listed:

u/stnam1994 · 2 pointsr/sffpc

I'm planning on a very similar build as yours! The list seems pretty good to me.

If I had to point one thing: the mobo supports NVMe drives, so at the $100-150 price range I'd recommend bumping up to a Samsung 960 Evo for faster read and write speeds. It's not as much of a day-and-night difference as jumping from a HDD to SSD, but it's still an improvement without paying not too much more (unless the Kingston SSD goes on sale, that is).

Once you finish building, check the GPU temps and then determine whether you will need additional slim 120mm fans under your GPU.

u/tweis309 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you can spend the extra $30 you should consider going with a NVME drive instead of a 2.5" SSD.

Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW)

u/PersonSuitTV · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would recommend a 128GB or higher. The reasons you will want at least 128GB would be one for SSD health you want to over provision the drive about 10% using the software. This ensures fast performance even during max capacity. Windows install itself will be just under 20GB but it will want to update from time to time and you need space for the updates, not only for the download of the updates themselves but for it to actually unpack and install the updates.

I'll list a couple of SSD's I would recommend. M.2 will be more expensive but has over 4 times faster performance. Honestly you may not notice it though as the SATA SSD is already really fast.


For M.2:

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This looks fairly solid for both of your intended goals. I might suggest using a Samsung 850 EVO instead of the Crucial drive. I would also recommend adding a Samsung 960 NVMe drive for your OS drive.

u/5H4D0W_5P3C7R3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
  1. Drop the PSU to a 650W G2 SuperNOVA.

  2. Get an m.2 SSD instead of a 2.5" SATA one. This one is fantastic, but you can opt for a larger one if you like. You almost never need 1TB of SSD space, though, unless you're hosting a web server or something. 500GB is more than you'll ever need if you're only gaming.

  3. You don't need 4TB of HDD space. Drop the Caviar Blue and stick with the 3TB Seagate Barracuda.

  4. Consider upgrading to a 1080 ti if you have the money for it. A 1080 should be able to handle 100+ fps at 1440p easily: a 1080 ti will get closer to 144 fps (it's about a ~30-40% performance increase over the 1080).
u/donkanonji · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

Ok since your friend needs it mainly for editing, he's going to need a good CPU, good amount of RAM, an ok-to-decent GPU, and as much storage as he can get.

Ryzen 1700 processor - Rs. 25,100/-

Asus X370 Pro mobo - Rs. 12,900/-

GSkill Trident Z 32GB 3000 MHz RAM - Rs. 28,000/-

Asus Strix GTX 1060 6GB GPU - Rs. 25,450/-

Samsung 960 EVO 250GB m.2 SSD - Rs. 12,975/-

Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200 RPM HDD - Rs. 7,950/-

Thermaltake 500W 80+ Gold PSU - Rs. 5,125/-

Corsair 100R Case - Rs. 3,300/-

Total - Rs. 1,20,800/-
This should be able to handle editing even up to 4K pretty comfortably. The X370 board is simply so your friend can put in an additional GPU for SLI later if he feels the need. I've read that even editing programs are getting increasingly GPU dependent nowadays, so that might be helpful later. If this configuration is too far past the budget, then you can get 16GB RAM at 11K and get a B350 mobo for about 8K. This particular B350 supports only Crossfire, so if you still want the option of a dual GPU setup later, you can change your GPU to a RX 580, which retails for about 24k (but is currently out of stock everywhere). The total cost then will come to around 98 99K.

EDIT: See u/ReddyPs' comment below. Stick with an Nvidia card for now.

u/TheGreenBastard2 · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

Have you considered going from an SSD to an m.2 NMVe? Not too sure if that MOBO has a slot, but holy shit are they blazing fast. I picked up a 500gig and will never go back to standard SSD. I can reboot in like 12 seconds, and everything just seems so snappy. Perhaps you could go with 16gigs and go with an NMVe... Others jump in if you think anything different.

u/HisBluntness · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
Check out the read/write comparison of this to the traditional SSD. This is one of the big reasons that MOBO I suggested is amazing. But you can definitely wait for this.

I know it's super hard to wait, but if you're planning to buy more ram in 2 weeks, then I would save the money and just get 16gb in 2 weeks and hold off on this build.

But to answer your question, 1 stick will work just fine in the mean time. Don't waste the money on a 2x4gb setup, 16gb is pretty much the sweet spot for gaming right now. 32 is unnecessary and overkill for gaming.

However, you've got a real nice pc build planned out! Congrats

Another word of advice, most pc enthusiasts will tell you to clean the thermal paste off the cooler and reapply before mating it with the CPU but if yours is anything like mine was, it came from the factory perfect. Plus it hasn't had enough shelf life to affect the paste on the cooler itself. Leave it and save yourself a step. I just booted my pc after getting off work, my CPU idles at 31 degrees Celsius with the Wraith cooler and factory applied paste.

u/BSamuelC · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's perfect really, if you wanted to save a bit of money you could also get the Dark rock 3 non pro, in the UK there's about a 30GBP difference, otherwise if you're happy with paying extra the PRO is fine, they're equelly as good.

The MSI board is good too because with that board you will be able to OC your ram quite easily to 3600MHz which is what I have done with my 3000 ram as well.

Your motherboard also has an M2 slot so I would suggest switching out the Corsair SSD for this

Samsung makes the best SSD's in the market and this one will be perfect for your system in terms of reliability and speed.

u/bradclarkston · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There's nothing wrong with it overall just two things to look at:

  • 1.) The motherboard doesn't support DDR4 3200 so if you decide to drop a R.7 in it in 3 years you'll be mem speed bottle-necked.
  • 2.) I'm not a fan of only having a spiny drive in 2017. The motherboard supports one m.2 drive so I would at least get a 250gb. I'd get a M.2 like the Samsung 960 EVO Series M.2 for your Win10 install. The M.2's are light-&-day faster than a spiny drive and a bit faster than a standard SSD.
u/SmileAndDonate · 2 pointsr/osx

Info | Details
Amazon Product | Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

u/Morgon_ · 2 pointsr/BuildAPCSalesMeta

Obviously, these could all be straight spitballing, but I see varying dates:

Amazon claims Jan 1st for the 1TB/2TB 960 Pros and Dec 11th for the 250GB Evo

Newegg claims Jan 2nd for the 960 Pros and Dec 13th for the Evos

B&H claims Dec 8th for all of them

u/cupasoups · 2 pointsr/GamingLaptops

Maybe i'm getting old, but I don't see how people game on a 15" laptop. I'd say the 17 and throw an SSD in there. You can get a 256GB Samsung 960EVO SSD for 120 bucks. There's also a 500GB for 220. Download the migration software from Samsung's website to clone your OS and you're good to go. Make a windows backup on a flash drive before you do. An 8GB stick of ram is 60 bucks (G.Skill Ripjaws). For 180, you can have thee same specs and a bigger screen for 30 bucks more.



u/rpenny69 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks like a pretty solid build. The only thing I would change is your main storage. I would do a NVMe M.2 to replace the 860 Evo. I personally have the 256GB 960 Evo and absolutely love it. It's not 500GB, but I haven't had any low space issues with it yet almost a year in.

And for future posts, PC Part Picker has a button to copy your build in markdown so it plays nice with reddit :)

u/Hoog1neer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't need AMD/Nvidia graphics, you might consider a NUC. It's really hard to find a smaller form-factor PC than that. You still would need to pack a monitor (although you could mount it to the back), mouse, and keyboard, but the PC itself would be super-small. You could get (e.g.) a 7i5 for less than $350, then add 8 GB of RAM ($80), and an M.2 NVME SSD for (Samsung 960 EVO M.2) for $115. Obviously you could choose to spend more on RAM, or the SSD, or add a 2 TB HDD (for the tall version).

I have this model as the family PC and it handles the likes of Guacamelee and Grow Home without issue. I haven't tried anything more demanding on it.

u/cloue · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Thank you for your help!!! Thanks for explaining everything as well. This is very interesting stuff to me so I think I will try to learn more myself. I was able to find this site here,2601.html so I think I will try to learn more about the parts to know what they do. But if there's something I don't understand I will ask :)

For the cpu is there another alternative like intel? My two buddies keep mentioning to go with a intel 8600k? And my other question was if you know the difference between the SSD you mentioned and this one. My buddy was saying choose the NVMe version but I had a hard time understanding his reasoning because english isn't his first language.

u/BSM-Black · 2 pointsr/italy

Per i 60 fps va bene quel processore.

  • Dissipatore: è esagerato, quella roba riesce a tenere un 8700k/9700k a 4.8-5Ghz senza problemi. Se non hai intenzione di overclockare puoi usare quello stock (compreso con la CPU). Se vuoi overclockare in futuro puoi sempre comprarne uno migliore ad aria per poche decine di euro.
  • Scheda madre: difficile da scegliere (almeno per me). Qua puoi vedere una "tier list" per le mobo adatte al tuo processore. Tieni conto di queste se hai intenzione di overclockare. La mobo consigliata costa, su amazon, circa 150 euro, mentre Questa è migliore, almeno dal punto di vista dei VRM. Ma se non hai intenzione di overclockare vai per quella più bella, che ha più funzionalità (cosa che non ho controllato) senza farti problemi.
  • RAM: qualsiasi cosa da 16 gb (2x8) non meno di 3000 Mhz (i ryzen hanno performance migliori, se pur di poco, all'aumentare della frequenza delle RAM). Vanno benissimo per esempio Queste
  • SSD: spendi un po' di più e prendi un Crucial MX 500 o un Samsung 860 pro. Capienza a tuo piacere, non adrei sotto i 500gb così puoi installarci anche qualche programma e gioco che avvii spesso
  • HDD: Puoi prendere un WD blue, un Seagate, un Toshiba. Quello che preferisci.
  • Case: sono altamente ignorante. Secondo me potresti scegliere in base a: estetica, disponibilità di installazione ventole, filtri antipolvere (molto importanti), e chicche varie. Non so consigliarti nulla. NOTA: Attento al case con la lunghezza della GPU: il produttore indica la massima lunghezza accettabile della GPU, caso per caso vai a verificare che ci stia.
  • Ottimo questo EVGA, ma 750W sono overkill anche per una 2070 (wattaggio consigliato 550w). Questo EVGA da 550w dovrebbe andare bene.


    Molti avrebbero da ridire perchè i miei consigli sono un po' eccessivi, puoi farti un'idea andando a cercare benchmark su YT in modo da avere sotto visione i numeri. Non ho la sfera di cristallo, il tuo portafoglio, o la testa dei dev, per cui non so quanto una GPU che adesso garantisce 60fps in 1440p sia valida anche tra 2-3 anni (cosa da tenere in conto dato l'investimento imho).

  1. 1080p 60fps: per me dovresti andare di 1660ti o rtx2060 al MASSIMO. Conta che la con la 2060 puoi puntare anche ai 144fps in 1080p (ma non ad ultra in certi titoli). Se vuoi risparmiare vai di 1660ti senzxa problemi. Qua puoi vedere come la 1660ti si comporta in 1080p e in 1440p. Secondo me la 1660ti è la scelta giusta.
  2. 1080p 144fps: rtx 2060. Butti giù qualche filtro inutile e li avrai senza problemi. Nei titoli da te citati senza nessuno sforzo.
  3. 1440p 60fps: RTX 2060 [Video performance in 1080p e 1440p]. Come puoi vedere, ad ultra, in 1080p siamo sempre sopra i 60fps, e in 1440p siamo sui 60 fps. Conta che puoi sempre abbassare filtri, ombre etc e guadagnare FPS. Ma giocare TW3 a Ultra è un piacere per gli occhi e non avrai sicuramente bisogno di 120 fps. Vuoi fare lo sborone? RTX 2070 e non avrai sicuramente problemi in un paio d'anni. Io andrei di 2060, ciò che risparmi lo usi tra x anni per comprarti un'altra GPU.
  4. 1440p 144fps: RTX 2070, una 2080 è troppo secondo me (e costa un sacco)
  5. Si, ma che marca? Gigabyte, MSI, Asus, Zotac? Qualche versione è più spinta di altre, ma si sta parlando di differenze di 1,2 fps (ossia nulla) Per esempio guarda qua con una rtx 2060. Valuta in base ad estetica, rumorosità e prezzo.

    Che monitor usare? Bella domanda. Non sono un esperto, te ne linko qualcuno, quelli più noti ed usati in pratica, ma non sono davvero la persona più adatta. Magari ti sa aiutare r/Monitors

  • 1080p: AOC 75hz, 27 pollici AOC 144hz 27 pollici Asus 1080p 60hz, 27 pollici, Asus 1080p 144hz
  • 1440p: Asus 1440p 75hz 27 pollici, AOC 1440p 144hz.

    Insomma, la scelta è varia e dipende da quanto vuoi spendere. Ho cercato di fare una panoramica rapida e chiara (spero).

    Se mi permetti io farei così:

  • Non me ne frega un cazzo di FPS, di fare il pro e di avere 750 fps su counter strike per avere 0.12 decimi di secondi di vantaggio rispetto al nemico. 1440p a 60fps. Puoi goderti un fps, ma hai la bellezza dei 1440p in titoli come The Witcher. Asus 75hz (240 euro) e RTX 2060 (circa 400 euro). Fatto. Per me è la scelta migliore ( e io gioco praticamente solo fps). Questa configurazione secondo me è ottima. Spesa 1400 euro compresa di monitor per 2k a 60 fps.
  • Voglio avere più fluidità e non mi importa di avere tutto ad ultra. RTX 2060 (quindi anche qui circa 400 euro) e AOC 144hz (300 euro). Meh. Spendi come sopra ma giochi in 1080p e non te ne fai nulla in Dark Souls o The Witcher.

    Spero di essere stato d'aiuto,che i link siano quelli giusti e di non averti confuso. Aggiornami se ho scritto cazzate, o se decidi di cambiare qualcosa!
u/Duskthelost · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Consider getting this instead:

It's $5 more for a 30% increase in performance:

Also remember an SSD isn't going to do anything for games except decrease loading times. This is great for games like Fallout 4 that have constant loading screens but is basically worthless for online gaming where you cannot start the game before the player with the slowest hard drive loads in.

u/Orage42 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Actually the M.2 interface is a new connector found on new motherboards, it uses PCIe lanes but not the slot itself.

You can still use the 960 M.2, but you'd need to buy an adapter such as this one:

I would recommend the Corsair MX500, the 500gb is currently $154 on amazon, which is a great price.

The 250gb is even cheaper and under $100, but having headroom for game storage is always welcome!

u/StillUsesWindowsXP · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/MelAlton · 2 pointsr/Amd

Wow that's a big scratch disk. Is this for work? There's a sale on Crucial's new 500GB ssd:

u/dpbell69 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You really should get the WD Green ssd 120GB. You'll want a larger size, they normally perform better and have higher longevity than the cheapies. A Crucial MX500 500GB

u/tizonearl · 2 pointsr/suggestapc

Here is a better desktop for even less. You can also use 50OFF699 for a $50 coupon. With the $200 you save, I'd reccommend buying an SSD like this one. Also maybe upgrade the ram to 16gb.

u/TCF_DoNotPassGo · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

It's a fairly easy process if you've ever fixed up anything in a computer before. Still fairly easy even if not. As for specifics; nothing really. Depends on how much you are looking to spend. I got a 500GB one myself, but my PS isn't my main console (Xbox gamer). You could always get an external 3.0 drive as well if you need extra storage and just keep the main games you play on the SSD.

u/Nextonex · 2 pointsr/Seaofthieves

This is what I bought. - Drive - Enclosure

No tools needed. Just pop the drive in the enclosure and plug it into the xbox.

u/Drekavac_6 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I vote neither because the 860 Evo just came out (Amazon link) I haven't had any issues with any of the Samsung SSDs I have had so that is generally what I recommend

u/OptimusMatrix · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

This SSD and this enclosure. Trust me it's worth the $95 bucks.

Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)

u/lukaswolfe44 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Likely a dive failure. Many have suggested getting an SSD for OS. Samsung SSD are cheap. Get a secondary HDD a well

u/weazle9954 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Im near broke but I need an SSD for my PC. Which SSD do I want Evo 860 250GB $90 or Silcon Power 256GB $60 Id like to save that ~$30 if there isn't much of a difference

u/-Pascal- · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Buying a solid state drive to upgrade a 2010 MacBook Pro. Between the following, is there any major differences I'll notice? I'm not a power user by any means, just looking to improve boot/app start times. Looking at ~250GB. I'm leaning towards the ADATA solely based on price and can easily be swayed towards the others.

Samsung 860 EVO

Crucial MX500


u/FlufferNutter8675309 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Thats a great build. IF its within your budget, look into a cheap/small SSD for a boot drive.

There is a link for a 2.5" 256GB ssd. Samsung Evo 860 for $57.

You can get different brands for cheaper and even in the m.2 form factor ( it does the same thing it just looks different and plugs into a different port. )

Other than all that ^ , you have a solid build.

Edit: do you need a copy of windows? If so incorporate that into your budget.

u/thnok · 2 pointsr/mac

I got this off amazon Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) and upgraded to 8GB RAM. There is a slight issue with the RAM drive bay and the bottom one might give issues.

Yeah the new one is thinner and lighter, but it lacks lot of the character, like the Apple logo doesn’t glow and no MagSafe.

u/Yo_Soy_Dabesss · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

If you've got an i3 it's probably not too old to upgrade and you almost definitely have a SATA hard drive in your PC right now. Swap that for an SSD and do a new clean install of windows and it'll run better than it ever has before. Going to 8GB of ram would help as well but the SSD will make a much more noticeable difference so if you're tight on cash I'd say do the SSD no matter what. Something like this or even better this

u/SneakyBadAss · 2 pointsr/pathofexile

If you are not using -noasync command, then only SSD can help you. And even if you are using it, the beyond mod is unplayable because the monsters aren't preloaded and since you have asynchronous loading turned off, the game will have to load it, thus freeze your game.

Seriously get an SSD, your gameplay experience will change immensely. This is the best bang for your bucks. For 15 more, you can get 500gb.

u/xEternalEcho · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Samsung hardrive with Amazon enclosure for around $65 is what I bought and couldn’t be happier.

u/MzCWzL · 2 pointsr/homelabsales

Brand new Samsung 860 EVO 250GB currently selling for $55 on Amazon - Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

u/AintCARRONaboutmuch · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Just a heads up, the newer 860 Evo is selling for 55.99 on amazon right now

u/ManOfDemolition · 2 pointsr/macbook

Definetely go with a SSD My MacBook Pro is almost like a new computer after installing one. But If you want the best of both worlds I’d advise you replace your optical drive with a HDD caddy and install your current HDD there, installing a SSD in It’s place. The installing process is fairly simple watch the videos of people doing it closely and watch out for the flex cable. Installing the SSD in place of the HDD is pretty easy as well. The guide says you need a T6 screwdriver for the studs of the HDD but it can be disassembled and reassembled with just pliers. Go for a 250GB SSD It’s enough for everything I currently use on a daily basis including the whole adobe lineup, my photos and videos. Good luck! Please ask if you have any other questions in your head ^^
Hard drive SSD replacement
Optical Drive replacement

u/Str8Lurk1n · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

The current fix to this is to buy an external SSD and transfer the game onto that. It's going to cost a minimum of like 70 bucks. I bought one and I don't regret the purchase, my game is smoother and my load times are exponentially better. Inventory is instant.


These are the only 2 items you need. I bought the 500 GB SSD, but if you want it for just D2 the 250 will suffice. it connects into the case and the case comes with a USB 3.0 to plug from it into your xbox.

u/BigE_1995 · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Get the Samsung 860 evo:, fast and reliable. You can also use it if you choose to build a PC later on, note that you will need to buy a ssd external enclosure if you want to use it on your Ps4.

u/WednesdayHH · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Get an ssd not a hdd, if it’s sata it should have no issues.

u/bro_can_u_even_carve · 2 pointsr/buildapc

250GB 860 EVO $49.49

edit: Here's the m.2 one: Personally I wouldn't bother unless you're getting at least the 500GB model. For the 250GB, it's like a 40% price increase over the SATA.

u/sirdiealot53 · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

Samsung 860 EVO 250 GB $89.26 (850 would work too, but the 860 is better and cheaper right now)

Sabrent USB 3.0 SSD Enclosure $8.99

These are what I use (850) and I've never had a loading issue again. Also if you freeze you can get back in the game in 45 seconds. It also works wonders on other games like BF1.

u/1832jsh · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

128GB: Kingston 120GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/120G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance

250GB: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)

u/Snoochey · 2 pointsr/wow
u/AquaPSN-XBOX · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

depends what you mean by "better"

internal would probably be more effective, however it is much harder to install and you could seriously screw something up in your console if you install it improperly

external is much easier to install and setup, while still giving you a massive boost in speeds

here is what I bought, it is external.. you plug the ssd into the case and plug the case into console, simple as that


u/Timmace · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

It absolutely helps but it has to be a Solid State Drive, not just an external hard drive. I bought this Samsung one back in April and it is actually $12 cheaper than when I bought it. Since that was months ago, someone might have a more current example of which is currently the best on market. I've been very happy with it though.

u/Russkiymedved · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sorry about not including more details in the original post. I've included additional info below.


  • Currently I play the following games: Cities skylines with some mods, Call of duty, grand theft auto, Skyrim, and Fallout. I would like my build to have the capability to play current games on moderate graphic settings at a minimum.
  • Computer science work would include several machine learning courses which I believe will be more GPU intensive than CPU intensive. I don't think it will stress the CPU more than gaming.
  • I have the following monitor and SSD with windows 10 currently loaded:


  • Lower noise would be preferred.
  • I would like a case with no lighting but have components with RGB capability.
  • I would prefer a keyboard built for typing as opposed to gaming.
  • I will not be doing any streaming or video editing.
u/zaco230 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 1TB Internal SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 1TB Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) [Canada Version]

u/REDLINE70689 · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

Got an ssd for my PC and figured I’d test it out on the Xbox before putting in it there.

My ssd didn’t make it to my PC lol not only does it help with PUBG, but load times in a lot of games benefit.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

With this enclosure

Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)

Piece of cake to set up. Put the drive in the enclosure (very easy), plug into usb, add games.

Edit- played PUBG on internal hard drive for test and live, vs ssd for both and the benefit is noticeable.

u/wannabeating · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder
u/Psylotrum · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Doesn’t exist

Edit: if price doesn’t matter
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/magus424 · 2 pointsr/AnthemTheGame

Careful to be sure it's a slim one; I use this 1TB model and it works great.

u/SolomonSilver · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Dont worry, it's impossible to know everything about everything.

That is a traditional hdd hard drive. It has a physical spinning disk.

This is an internal ssd. It takes the place of an hdd. They cost more per gb than an hdd.

What a lot of people do is they buy a smaller ssd and put their operating system and commonly used programs on it and then have an hdd at the same time to hold their documents, bigger files, less used programs etc...

There are 2 main types of ssd.

2.5 references the size. Of this size you only need to worry about the SATA. There are other versions that are faster but cost a lot more money

M.2 optane is the second main type. It almost looks like a ram stick and plugs directly into the motherboard like a ram stick. It is faster but a lot more money. In my opinion they aren't worth it.

u/frogshit · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm sure you've already looked at them by now, but I'll at least link you just in case it makes it easier. Here's a 1TB 860 EVO that will have the same general performance (we're talking millisecond differences) and save you $100. You can go even cheaper too with other brands & sales.

u/ABCDigitalBlog · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I agree...SSD should boot windows in seconds. If you have an evo...many of those have 3-5 year warranty. Go get a clone from the store, send in your old drive then return the new one if you like after repair...or keep it since 1TB Sam or WD (Sam is better) is 150 (175) or so now a days.



u/cenzoznec · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Just put a Samsung 1TB Evo 860 in my PS4 (internal). What a HUGE difference. No more loading while riding my sparrow between places, I land on a planet 20 seconds before my fireteam, no UI lag anymore. What a difference! Only $160 on amazon.

u/Jmessaglia · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Great build, but combine the ssd's

monitor is overpriced as well

And the card is overpriced by 50 dollars a ROG strix card is alot less
(here is a card i couldnt find the strix on pc part picker)

Please contact me if you need anything else :)

u/wanryavka · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

There's a couple cosmetic damaged item 960 evo M.2s in stock if you want to snag them instead. $99.96

u/SilvaDragon · 2 pointsr/FORTnITE

That hard drive isn't an SSD, is it? I'm guessing the game is loading resources when you start a mission, and that spinner just can't keep up. Grab a cheap SSD and re-install the game on that. It will change your world.

240Gb Kingston SSD for $25

u/TarmacFFS · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

> I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a cheap used system which would be way faster than this dinosaur.

I don't understand this. When I look up these processors on CPU benchmark I'm seeing a single CPU score of about half of my Desktop's Ryzen 2700X, and that was not a cheap system to build.

The cost of a decent 240GB SSD is like $32, so for $100 I could replace all the Raid 5 drives and then have a server that will do more than I need it to while keeping this out of a landfill.

I don't see why it's worth throwing away. I got it for free so for $100 total I have a 16 core machine with 48GB of ECC RAM.

Am I missing something?


Edit: I wanted to add a reply I made to someone else regarding the power consumption:

> I plugged it into a Kill-a-Watt and it pulls 300W max at idle, and 400W at 100% utilization. This is both PSUs and the display that is never on. I live in Oregon where power is $.11/kwh.

> That's 2,600 kWh/year at idle and 3,500 kWh/year at full tilt. Let's pretend it never turns off and I use 100% CPU 8 hours a day, which is wildly overestimating.

> I'm looking at spending max $311 a year, or a measly $26 a month.

> You tell me what instance I can get for $26 a month on Azure that will do anything let alone let me stream 1-3 Plex streams, act as a backup server, and run multiple minecraft servers.

> Am I missing something here?

I feel like I'm missing something here. Maybe I'm wildly overestimating the power of these CPUs, but I'm expecting at least a 2x performance increase over the single FX-6300. Maybe I'm missing a decimal point in my power consumption calculations.

I'm confused as to why people suggest I toss it though.

u/Colton82 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

CORSAIR FORCE Series MP300 240GB NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD Solid State Storage

Kingston A400 SSD 240GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/240G - Increase Performance

And about the WiFi, housing setup right now would take a 25 foot and 50 foot cords stapled to the ceiling. Will more then likely set it up but would still like the WiFi cards just in case

I’ll look into the monitors for sure

u/Hail_Hydra_ · 2 pointsr/technology

There are some laptops out there for sure that have SSDs soldered in (usually chromebooks and newer macbooks), but if it has a traditional HDD you should be able to replace it with an SSD by opening the case and unplugging the old one. Laptops can have both SSDs and HDDs if they have enough room inside but I don't think it's very common, I know some newer gaming laptops have both so you get the speed of the SSD for the OS and games but still have plenty of storage on the HDD and in some cases people replace the optical drive with a secondary SSD/HDD. You're running McAfee on the computer that's slow? That could definitely be the problem there. I don't know how well it actually detects viruses but as far as performance goes it's a dealbreaker for me. I just helped a buddy take that off of his brand new Dell all-in-one because it was borderline unusable out of the box and basically all I did was uninstall McAfee. There are honestly better options out the available for free like BitDefender or even Windows Defender is pretty good. Here's a guide I like to look at that compares different AV like that.,review-6003.html

BitDefender Free is what I use personally. Malwarebytes is pretty great as well, it helped me save my buddy a few hundred dollars and a few days of time that Best Buy wanted to scam him out of. Here's a decent SSD for the price, not the best and not the most storage but for $30 you can't beat it.

You could always get a bigger one or better brand too just depending on how much you want to spend.

u/FreezingIrony · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The version with SSD costs $620, but the version without costs $510. Is the SSD really worth $110?

What makes theirs so special? Or I'm I not noticing an additional feature?

Edit: Should I buy the $510 version without an SSD and add a cheaper SSD or should I just get the $620 version which already has an SSD.

This ssd for instance is only 30 bucks

u/The_Dude_Named_Moo · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

240GB variant is even cheaper on Amazon at $47.99 with free shipping for prime members

u/Muvanji · 2 pointsr/CanadianHardwareSwap

That a little much considering i can get a 120G from Amazon new for 31.99
The Read/Write for the Hynix is 530/200 while the A400 is 500/320 so around the same performance but one is new.

u/DHarkKnight10 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Kingston A400 SSD 240GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/240G - Increase Performance

This is what I use. Under 50 bucks plus it’s a 240gb so you can put any additional programs in there if you want

Edit: the 120gb is 28 bucks and Kingston is a pretty reliable brand

u/MGreymanN · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Kingston 240GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/240G

u/MaXimus421 · 2 pointsr/computers

I just bought a 240 GB Kingston for $27 on Ebay. It's around the same price on Amazon

SSD's are pretty cheap right now.

u/sasaACE · 2 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

Kingston SSD A400 Solid State Drive (2.5 Inch SATA 3), 240 GB

u/Jonesy492 · 2 pointsr/AnthemTheGame

I never played the demo, so I can't comment on that. I would pick up a ssd from amazon.

$30 and you will be able to fit 4+ games on it. It will make you life in this game 100x better.

u/TheRufmeisterGeneral · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

Yes, an SSD would make it boot fast and overall act like a comfortable machine (unless the CPU is really super bad like old Celerons).

That said, $60 for 120GB is a bad deal. Here is a 240GB SSD for $47: Kingston A400 on Amazon.

That said, the most important thing to check is the service manual, or whatever document/review you can find that shows how to open up the laptop. Sometimes, laptops can be incredibly difficult to open up enough to get to the drive, and sometimes they use weird (ultrathin?) form factors for the harddisk. It's a good idea to check before buying, that the harddisk can be replaced.

Edit: A further frugal storage tip: go to and search for "usb sata" and get something is cheap enough to hook up the old harddisk to the laptop using USB, so you have a few hundred GBs of extra, external storage if you need it.

u/maybepants · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

The Deepcool Tesseract has 2 fans, and is a bit cheaper than the Corsair. I've built in it, and it's a solid budget case.

The EVGA - BQ 500W is perfectly fine for your build - it's even a bit overkill if you're not using a dedicated GPU.

I removed the keyboard from your list just because.

Your #1 priority upgrade should be a SSD boot drive. Smallish SSDs which are perfect for Windows boots drives are cheap and plentiful. You can get a 120GB SSD for under $40, or a 240GB drive for $55 or so.

u/Stevictory · 2 pointsr/forza

Hmm, so it looks like it is a 7200rpm HDD so that should not be an issue. If you're passing vehicles and getting the fps drops, it could be the RAM not being fast enough/big enough to store the new data.

On the bright side, SSDs are cheap these days compared to 5 years ago and you can pick up a 240GB one strictly dedicated to FH4 and a few other games for 30 bucks.

If I were you, I would try upgrading RAM first to and see if the issue still persists since it is at the minimum of the minimum requirements. The HDD running at 100% is a bit concerning to me as well. Hence, maybe both may be the best route. This RAM and this SSD would run for 110 total.

And if you do get an SSD, make sure to get a sata 3 cable and ensure to plug it into the sata 3 port on your MOBO

Edit: Also, quick clarification question. Is it consistently at 100% or is it variable? If its variable that's fine as it is simply loading new areas and then stopping once loaded. Variable = 1-5 seconds in this case. In that sense, you may just need the RAM upgrade.

u/PVTcookies · 2 pointsr/bloomington
u/youshouldbeonarch · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

I'd try it, but be warned; the reason I said not to keep powering up and down is because you might have a failing drive on your hands, the more you power-cycle, the more of of a chance you'll lose your data.

The drive costs $29.99 currently btw

u/doggxyo · 2 pointsr/freenas

I use two Kingston 240gb SSDs in mirror once booting from flash drives were no longer being recommended. I know 240gb is way too big for what I need, but compared to smaller sizes - it didn't make sense to me to buy smaller.

My Dell R720XD has internal SATA ports but they are disabled... and I didn't want to dedicate two drive bays for boot disks - so I bought a pair of these SATA to USB cables, and haven't had an issue. One is attached to the server's internal USB port and the other SSD is inside the chasis too, plugged into a back USB port - and the cable is fed through an empty PCIe slot.

u/ImpossibleWarden · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is a good one I found on 240 GB should be more than enough for your OS and basic applications, and you already have HDDs for overflow storage.

Side note, any specific reason for going with two 500 GB drives instead of one 1 TB one? A single drive will probably be cheaper and cause less headaches.

u/ResearchDeezNuts · 2 pointsr/CryptoMiningTalk

No problem. I'll include links so it makes easy for you. My advice, go with GTX 1080 tis. With some patience, you can get them for 800/each, and their profitability is more than twice that of RX 580s. The approach is simple and will take over a week to secure all your cards around that price range.

  1. You check amazon and newegg frequently for 1080ti with price range under $900
  2. Go to manufacturer websites and get auto-notify for the card you want(for example EVGA: Each website should send you a notification at least once per week that they restocked, you just have to react to it first. :)

    For Power Supply: invest in one 1600W for every 5 cards you run(1080 ti draws around 250W each. If you run each card at 80% power like most miners, you should be fine with a 1600W and 6 cards).


    Motherboard power button




    And one more thing: That's the dream build I've been saving up for. If you appreciated the help, please consider donating to my rig fund. And don't forget to tell me how it's treating you from the other side! =)

u/theleverage · 2 pointsr/vancouver

+1 to this - I'm a big fan of HP 9470m - incredible build quality, easy to swap out parts, very serviceable. Processors are capable enough for 95% of user activites. A quick eBay search returned this for $180, and if you want better speed add $28 for a cheap 120 GB SSD and you've got yourself a fully capable coding laptop for just over $200.

u/dr_steve_harvey69420 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I don't know about a 128gb but there is a 120gb dad for 20$ on Amazon and it's a Kingston. Here is the link

u/cleronfx · 2 pointsr/BaPCSalesEurope

perfect for people who look to upgrade/ or add a ssd to their system for the first time. certainly not as good as a samsung but for this price surely not bad.

without ref link

next price in germany : 41€

u/KomputerIdiat · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Which ones are the MCLs? these are explained as confusing marketing since their 3bit MLC is TLC. Are their SATA SSDs just exactly the same as the Crucial, WD, Adata, Kingston, SanDisk, etc.

u/BJWTech · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You want to get a processor that supports aes-ni. That will allow SSL acceleration (opnvpn) and is also being required as of pfSense 2.5 and up.

I would choose this machine and purchase an unmanaged switch for your devices.

Hope that helps!

2nd edit; I was am an idiot... OK, Here you go. Under budget and should do what you need....

You can use this Zotac Barebones PC w/ the Celeron N3150 processor that supports AES-NI. Add some RAM and a SSD. Finally a Managed 8 Port Switch.

1st edit; Did not realize that I linked a celeron ( thanks u/suziesamantha ) as I thought it was a j1900 processor and then realized that the bay trail's also don't have aes-ni support. Sorry for the wrong information. The router I built is based on the Atom Rangley chip. You can use this link to help find aes-ni support.

u/KylethePokeDude · 2 pointsr/VintageApple

The maximum ram it’ll take is 6gb so you’ll probably have to find a 4gb stick and swap out one of the 2gb. As for an ssd, it really doesn’t matter too much.

Here’s a cheap Kingston one on Amazon, should be just fine for it: Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance

Edit: not sure about a battery, but I’ve gotten my third party ones from eBay, Amazon, and OWC.

u/sheogorathjr · 2 pointsr/shittyrainbow6

Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance

u/cogentorange · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Why not something like this? Reputable brand, under $20 and exact storage you'd like. For $30 you could get 240gb.

u/kickbuttpotato13 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

They're essentially the same, just in different form factor's really. They both operate on SATA3 and both have the same specs. If ya scroll down a bit you can see the comparison between em, but ultimately both would deliver the same performance so it's up to personal preference.

u/omniscient_zero · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Buy an SSD and clean install Windows with the media creation tool. I've been refurbing old notebooks with cheap 120GB Kingston solid-state drives to give away, and even though they are complete trash spec wise (i3/4GBDDR4) they run great for basic work and school tasks.


This is the drive I use for refurbs, it's only $20:

u/Nubetastic · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

If your computers have an esata port you can do an external SSD for the game.

Esata adapter

inexpensive ssd

I myself have been looking into a possible SSD cartridge like system do to the growing size of many games now. If you have a desktop you can also put a Drive Rack to interchange the drives as well.

If you go this route you can also map the local game files in your user profile to the ssd if you want the take your hud/settings between computers also.

u/NeonJaguars · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme


  • Ryzen 1400: link


  • Asrock AB350 Pro4: link


  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4-3000: link


  • Kingston A400 120Gb SSD: link


  • WD Blue 1TB HDD: link


  • Zotac GTX 1070 Mini (There are no Gtx 1070s or 1060s on Amazon in stock. I can personally attest to Newegg's quality as I bought all my PC parts from them. Fast shipping and arrived without any damage.): link


  • Corsair 550w Semi-Modular PSU: link

    Total Cost: 945.90

    Build will run all modern games at 1080p or 1440p. I went with amazon for all parts except for the GPU because there are none in stock on Amazon. 8gb of ram is fine for gaming. 120gb SSD for OS/programs and 1TB HDD for mass storage. Semi modular power supply for easy cable management. Feel free to ask me any questions.

    Edit: Formatting.

u/TheAdamvg · 2 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

30 isn't reasonable.

One below is probably faster, and its brand new.

u/Snap12345 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes the hard drive is good. You need a ssd for Windows. I would recommend something small like a 128 GB Kingston SSD

u/pokeaotic · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So since it's your first build, I'm not sure how familiar you are with this... The K at the end of the 7600K means that it is unlocked, which means you can overclock your CPU. That's the big difference between the 7600K and the 7500, with about a $35 price difference. But in order to overclock your CPU, you need a Z270 motherboard and yours is a B250. I know when I was first getting into PC building motherboards were the most confusing part. Wikipedia actually has a pretty cool chart that shows you all the differences here (this link is only for motherboards that work with the 1151 socket, or the 6th/7th generation intel processors which is the one that applies to you).

Anyway, basically you have to decide if you want to do overclocking on your CPU or not. And if you are you need a Z270 motherboard, which is gonna be generally more expensive than B250 motherboards. You also want a better CPU cooler so you can push your overclock as high as you can.

If you decide not to overclock, you should really switch to the i5 7500. And honestly with your budget that's what I'd do personally. My current build is a GTX 1060 paired with an i5 6500 (basically the exact same as the 7500 just the previous year's model). It is a really good combination and neither part is really bottlenecking the other. So that's what I'd recommend you do.

And with that said, the motherboard you chose is **ridiculously** expensive for a B250 board. I'd recommend something like this board for less than half the price.

*Edit:* So going that route would save you $133. I'd really really recommend using part of that to get an SSD. You'd still get your HDD to download/install shit on, but you'd install Windows and your most common games on your SSD. The extra speed is so so so so worth it. Kingston has a decent 120GB option for $45, the top of the line option would be Samsung's Evo but you'd have to get 250GB, the price on it is absolutely amazing right now though only $85 so I'd recommend that one.

u/SkyttlesOG · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Here is the one I'm talking about

Yeah, I'd suggest roughly $35-45 shipped depending on how quickly you want it to sell, that's roughly what they go for on here

u/Snoogadooch · 2 pointsr/everquest

Here is the HDD i went ahead and got for it. Not totally necessary but boot up is literally seconds and makes a noticeable difference when zoning and loading up the game. Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3...

u/calley479 · 2 pointsr/mac

My gf still uses her 2007 MBP to this day and it works like a champ. Granted I've had to replace the HDD and reinstall OSX a few times, but the hardware will last a long time if you take care of it.

OSX can get a little sluggish after a year or two. I highly recommend reinstalling and restoring from backup instead of upgrading between major versions (and anytime things start to slow down)

I also recommend upgrading to an SSD. We're upgrading all MBPs at my office to Samsung EVOs. Of all the things you can do, this will probably have the most drastic effect on speed... especially on start-up time. If you combine that with a reinstall and restore, you'll practically have a new computer.

We had an old 2006 iMac that took 30 minutes (yes, minutes) to boot.... and was so slow she hadn't used it in years. I was afraid the HDD was about to die, but after some ram and a fresh install of Mavericks, its better than new. If it wasn't such a pain, I'd upgrade it to an SSD too.

u/Bmxracer073 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

For SSD, the Intel 730 line are praised for their reliability but they aren't the fastest nor the cheapest. I've always been partial to the Samsung 840 Evo Series.

For HDD's I always stick to Western Digital. I've never had any problems with mine; they just always work. Possibly go for a 3TB Red for tons of space. If you decide to get multiple, the Reds are good for RAID setups.

u/SchaFFFFFFFFFFF · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Ive been thinking about getting the Samsung EVO 240GB (link) when it was 139. Is this drive comparable to that in performance or should I wait for another 240GB drive with better performance to fall near the $120 price point?
This would be used to replace a Corsair Force Series 3 120GB SSD.

u/kissmekennyy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks good to me. The only things that I would change is the motherboard to something that has 4 slots for RAM just in case you want more RAM in the future and a 1tb SSD instead of 500gb. I have a 500gb SSD and it filled up quickly. Probably sitting at 80% full if I had to take a guess. I picked up this SSD for $80 on Amazon today because it was on sale for Prime Day. If you're not a Prime member you can still take up the deals you see though by creating a prime account and then cancelling it after you get your items in the mail (first 30 days of Prime are free). I know a lot of people that have done this. You won't be charged anything for creating a Prime account. They will ask for credit card info though but that's to keep it on record if you were to keep the account.

u/bananabread117 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

How is this ssd? Is this a reliable NVME drive? Says its 106$ with prime deals for 1tb

u/MCMikeCheck · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I have an issue trying to buy a prime deal item. (


Whenever I try to actually add the item to cart and check out, at some point in the process it'll remove the prime deal and even remove it from my cart before I can make the payment. It'll come back randomly but it keeps doing it. Please help.

u/wankertank · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This was just $80:

Looks like prime day sale ended however :( Keep checking for new deals!

NVME drives are the way to go.

u/GaryJS3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I thought this too, yet you can get a 1TB Nvme for pretty much the same price. Such as this one

u/adgtag · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/justinsane15 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Question about NVME m.2 SSDs.

Started building a new Ryzen based build during Prime days. Intent was to buy two 1TB SSDs, one for boot+programs and another for games only. Literally only just learned about m.2 during the sale, and with limited education on the subject bought a Crucial P1 1TB from Newegg in a bundle with some ram, with the intention of buying a second if I could catch a sale (I missed them all for that particular drive). In the meantime, I've educated myself on the subject and learned about TLC vs QLC and how QLC speeds can plummet under long usage, and don't work well once 70% or more full.

Doing more research, it seems like the Sabrent Rocket is a very good budget TLC drive, so I'm think I'm going to pick up at least one, but now I'm considering buy two to use over the Crucial P1. Problem is, since it's part of a bundle I can't return it on its own (not to mention having to pay for return shipping) so I'm kinda flummoxed on what to do. In a vacuum where the effort of disposing of the Crucial wouldn't matter, should I get two Sabrents and sell the Crucial, or are the horror stories not a big deal and just keep the Crucial and get one Sabrent. And if I go that route, which one would be better as the gaming drive?

u/TheBookSloth · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nah the psu is perfectly fine. Don’t think they’ll be going for a 2080 TI plus you won’t find any sfx with a higher wattage than 600 (Corsair has one for 750w) but it’s expensive. I have a similar set up except the 600w Gold rated on a gtx 980 and an i7-9700k, nearly identical set up

You’re spot on about the m.2.

WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS100T2B0B

This one is good though not NvMe fast speeds,
The one OP has is solid and it’s on sale $150 isn’t bad for an NvMe 1tb but here are ones a little cheaper

Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB)

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

Kingston Digital SA1000M8/960G A1000 960GB PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive

u/Natzely · 2 pointsr/GamingLaptops

This thread is about month old so not sure if I'll get a response.

I bought this M.2 Drive for my secondary drive and it did not work. It either would not load windows from the primary after installation or the disk manager would not detect even if the BIOS did. What makes it different than the Crucial M.2 or the Sabrent both which have been claimed to work?


I'm pretty much having this exact issue.


EDIT: I returned the ADATA drive and bought the Sabrent. The Sabrent worked fine when I restarted my computer once after the installation.

u/maniacalyeti · 2 pointsr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

One thing I’d dispute is the drive. You can get a 1 TB nvme drive for just over $100:

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Can put one together yourself, for example this + . The "early bird" specials on the kickstarters ain't bad but they're also advertising shipping in January and March, they may just be counting on the drives getting cheaper before they ship.

u/spinal2k · 2 pointsr/portugal

A net não é só pornhub, também é para aprender. :D


Eu já percebi. Olha, esse especifico que disseste. esse é NVME... Como já disseram antes, desses é dificil de encontrar a menos de 100€. A principal diferença é que esses chegam a velocidades de 2000MB/s e os SSD SATA M.2 estão limitados a 600MB/s do sata 3.

Em jogos isto nota-se pouco, se trabalhares com ficheiros grandes (video, photoshop, etc) é que vais notar a sério.

Isto seria a minha recomendação para ti

ou isto

Esse ultimo tem más reviews (vê no youtube), informa-te

u/ecco311 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a Crucial P1, it's cheaper and has 500GB, 250GB is really not enough it for gaming unless you have Gbit internet and want to uninstall/download as you wish, but even then.... with games like cod that are up to 120GB... yeah...

For 30$ more you can get 1TB:

And with a cheaper PSU/mobo you can get an RX 580/590 or maybe 1660ti. 570 for 185 is way too expensive anyway.

This PC here would honestly be a lot better, mainly due to higher capacity SSD and the noticeably better GPU) and at the same time cheaper:

[PCPartPicker Part List](




**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor]( | $117.68 @ Amazon

**Motherboard** | [ASRock Fatal1ty B450 GAMING K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard]( | $84.99 @ Amazon

**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory]( | $84.99 @ Amazon

**Storage** | [Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive]( | $95.99 @ Amazon

**Video Card** | [PowerColor Radeon RX 590 8 GB RED DRAGON Video Card]( | $189.99 @ Amazon

**Case** | [NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case]( | $69.98 @ Amazon

**Power Supply** | [Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply]( | $69.98 @ Amazon

**Wireless Network Adapter** | [Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter]( | $35.52 @ Amazon

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$749.12**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker]( 2019-10-27 15:21 EDT-0400 |

u/jaypatel149 · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

Is this good enough??

u/KingInTheNorth035 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8

Better deal in my opinion only 139.99

u/ThinkMention · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes albeit lower ratio(fixed 256MB at all sizes), regular SSDs use 1GB:1TB ratio

Get crucial P1 same hardware but with regular DRAM size, currently 105$ at amazon

This is QLC so performance is low in sequential performance and endurance isn't as TLC.

u/notqthrowaway · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

How does this compare with the Crucial P1 that is also on sale?

u/steop · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Am I wrong that It doesn't worth to pay $115 for the XPG instead of paying $110 for the Sabrent Rocket?


Thank you for your help and attention.

I'm sorry for any inconvenience.

u/10pmStalker · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

How much better is this than the SB-ROCKET-1TB?

u/WhtATime · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I suggest the sabrent rocket, the read and write speeds are just about the same as the 970 evo plus, while being more than 50% cheaper. I have been using this for months now as my boot drive and it has performed excellent. The only downside is you will need a fresh install of windows.

u/Xenoflower7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For save more money you can buy used version at amazon

1tb samsung 860 evo ssd only 139.99 usd

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX16GX3M2A1600C10 price only 99.99 usd

total only 239.98 USD...

Now you can have fast laptop with low budget upgrade

Good Luck Bro

u/XsunnshinneX · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

My friend, you're way high on current SSD prices Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/DatTestBench · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The 860 Pro comes at a hefty premium compared to the 860 Evo (I have no idea why tbh) . See for yourself : 860 Pro (and it's on sale at that), 860 Evo

u/Alpr101 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Definitely no to the SSD. I bought a 120HB ssd ~3 years ago but I'm just upgrading (well, adding a 2nd ssd) to a 1T ssd. It's $127 on amazon right now. You could still keep the 120gb ssd and use it only for windows boot (like what I'm doing).

u/Rvby1 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.

Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!

u/JParks777 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Not eBay, but Amazon has 1TB 860 for 128.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/sp1n · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

This isn't the drive you're looking for, but I ordered an 860 EVO 1TB for $128. ICICI charged me 9600 rupees for it, which means their exchange rate is exactly 75 right now.

Now if you go to Amazon and try to ship that same SSD to India, they charge $128 + $60 for import fees and shipping. At 75 per dollar, that comes out to 14,100 bucks.

That same drive is currently 18,300 on

Black Friday deals are crazy. The drive is 25% cheaper even after acche din import duties. Definitely look at all your options before buying locally.

u/sh4mm · 2 pointsr/suggestapc

The thing about 1060s right now is that every prebuilt has one in them so the companies and move on to bigger and better fish, it's not a bad card by any means.

I've never played WoW, but I do know these specs massively surpass the recommended:

I7 8700

1060 3gb

16gb DDR4

120gb SSD


@ $1000 on Amazon

Get a 1tb Samsung SSD for ~130 or 2tb SSD for ~300

Here's a benchmark with an i3 8100 and a 1060 3gb running WOW on Ultra.

You can expect better framerates with the better CPU. I3 8100 vs I7 8700

u/SaabFan87 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey friend, happy cake day, get yourself a reasonably priced SSD.

u/gummibear049 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I agree, especially with all the sales going on right now.

Instead of a cheap 240GB SSD + cheap 1TB HDD, you could fit a [1TB Samsung EVO SSD $128] ( and still be within his budget.

That way don't have do deal with 2 different storage units.

u/RealBACONATOR2 · 2 pointsr/guns

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/anderworx · 2 pointsr/mac

I've upgraded a MacBook Pro 2015 with a Samsung EVO 860. Worked great.

u/cohen_dev · 2 pointsr/apexlegends

I got the Samsung 860 EVO. I bought the 1 TB, but I'm sure the 500gb will work just as well.

u/SadnessIsTakingOver · 2 pointsr/computer

Get an SSD. That is going to improve performance so much. It's honestly the best bang for your buck upgrade. You can also always move the SSD to a new desktop or future laptop as well so it's not money wasted.

I have personally put SSDs in older laptops for my self and family and we've all been happy with the results. It makes the computer fast as far as load times and daily tasks go. It's not going to speed up heavy CPU intensive tasks. But if you watch videos, browse the internet, do simple things like that, it's night and day.

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

This is one I've bought 2 of so far. Great performance for the money and plenty of storage. Old spin type HDDs are such a huge bottle neck. Especially in laptops where they put slow spin HDDs to conserve battery usage.

Step 2 would be ram upgrade, but it's not going to be as dramatic as the SSD upgrade. If you have 4gb of ram just leave it be. If you find a good deal on a 4gb stick for like $20 or less on Facebook market or something like that I'd upgrade it. I wouldn't put a whole lot of money into the computer. The only reason I recommend the SSD is because traditional HDDs are such a huge bottleneck that once lifted , makes even an i3 shine. And like I mentioned earlier that SSD you can use in future computers.

u/TheGutsyBat · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada link. A whole one cent off!

u/Doggcow · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

There's a 1tb 860 for 167 Amazon

Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/SSGSS_Bender · 2 pointsr/PS4

Best one for the money by far. It's what I use on all of my gadgets, including my PC, PS4 Pro, and Xbox One X. It's what I put in every PC I build for Friends and family. There are cheaper options but you start losing out on performance.

u/Uoon_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thank you a lot, I'll probably get something like this one. It has a lot of storage, something I've ran out of twice over the time I've had this PC, and it'll connect with ports my motherboard already has.

u/lucklouie · 2 pointsr/PS4

I bought this one when it was at $129 and couldn't be happier. It's on sale right now too.

Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)

u/red286 · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

Well, if you're not doing any gaming or content creation (video/photo editing), there won't be a huge difference (at least, not after a few runs, it takes a while for it to determine what should be cached).

For reliability, I'd probably recommend an SSD, but not a TeamGroup one. Something like a Samsung or WD or Crucial would be a better option if you're concerned about reliability.

u/White_Phoenix · 2 pointsr/MonsterHunterWorld

SSDs aren't as expensive as you think - prices have been falling drastically. I highly suggest saving up for one - something like a Samsung 860 EVO

1 TB is $147, whereas a 500 GB is a bargain price of $77.99!

u/AwesomeShizzles · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Samsung 860 evo 2.5in. Get whatever size capacity you like

u/Defora · 2 pointsr/ConanExiles

Yes you can, are but those are expensive. I got myself 1TB Samsung 860 evo

If/when I need more space I will get external sdd (link has both hdd and sdd listed)

u/Nostalgic_Noah · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you end up getting an m.2 ssd you'll need to make sure it's compatible with your mobo. It'll either come in an m.2 sata or m.2 nvme ssd. The 1tb 860 Evo falls right in your budget

u/_Master_Shake · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

The 2.5" 860 Evo 1TB also has the 20% off. $112.37 - 20% = $90 + tax. Select buy used.

u/ParkerWGB · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

Good to hear about the ram! That’s the next thing I do on my Mac.

Samsung 850 series is a solid SSD. Have one in my gaming pc but only a 250gb.
It’s also currently on sale on amazon

If not that crucial also makes good SSD’s
Let me know if that works out for ya

u/bapcs-3c-checker · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Type|Amazon|3rd Party New
Lowest|$177.99 on Sep 02, 2018|$197.99 on Aug 30, 2018
Highest|$329.99 on Jan 23, 2018|$627.59 on Jun 25, 2018

3C link

I am a bot; please send comments/questions to github issues


u/grubtub19 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/raistlin65 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I agree with the other poster. A 3700x and 16gb ram might be more than enough for your needs. Depends. Do you plan on running multiple virtual machines while gaming? Are you going to be doing video rendering while you are doing other things? In other words, what are you doing that would require heavy multicore threading?

I would get the Samsung 970 evo 1tb instead of the 512gb Pro. In some benchmarks, the larger Evo will outperform the smaller Pro. So I see it as kind of a toss-up since these drives are so fast you might not be able to perceive a difference anyway, and you get an extra 500GB

Also, go with arctic mx4 instead of the arctic silver v. It's their newer paste that is a better paste in several ways.

u/cleod4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.

Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.

Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.




I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.

Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:

also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo

For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).

The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition

But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).

Get an 80+ platinum power supply

This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless

Logitech G703

u/CraveJon · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

You may want to check the price of the SSD because Amazon sells that at 169.99, unless it's the PLUS version, but not advertised as so?