Best knife blades according to redditors

We found 83 Reddit comments discussing the best knife blades. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Knife Blades:

u/yacht_boy · 42 pointsr/HomeImprovement

As an old house lover (and fellow old house owner), I'm begging you to please restore those windows! It can be done!

I'm making this response extra long and detailed since this question comes up from time to time. Hopefully it can be a resource for others.

But I say this as a guy who bought a real wreck of a house where the previous owner had let everything go. We needed to fix all 45 openings at once as part of a major rehab, and after 6 weeks of effort, about $3000 of experimentation (including taking a week off work and hiring two people to help me), I finally gave up and put in vinyl windows. It completely broke my heart, and my house is uglier because of it. But sometimes, an old window is just too far gone to save. But in that process I learned a lot and I'd like to share a few things.

  1. Old windows were designed to be maintained. That's why after almost 150 years your windows are still in pretty good shape. Modern vinyl windows are designed to be disposable. Once the seals break, they start to stick in their channels, etc., your only option is to put them in a landfill.

  2. Properly maintained old windows with properly installed weather stripping and properly installed/maintained storm windows are every bit as energy efficient as modern vinyl windows. This article goes into detail and has a huge list of references including links to primary research on the topic for the people who don't believe me.

  3. If you are at all handy, you can figure out how to maintain your old windows.

  4. If you live in a place where old houses are common, there may well be a local shop that specializes in this kind of thing. Here in Boston, we have two great resources. The nonprofit Boston Building Resources does classes on window restoration and sells all the stuff you'll need. And Olde Bostonian will do it all for you if you have the cash. This isn't Home Depot level stuff, so look for specialists.

  5. Old windows are a big source of lead paint dust, especially from the two sashes (the two actual window parts that move up and down) rubbing in the frames. If you have kids or are planning on having them, removing the lead paint from the windows is the biggest lead paint improvement you can make in your home. Even if you aren't planning on having kids, work safely. Grownups can get lead poisoning, too. Or, like us, you might have an unplanned pregnancy. Or you might have friends who have kids. Or want to sell it to a nice family someday. Get a lead-safe respirator (not cheap dust masks), do as little dry sanding as possible, and take the windows to a spot outside of your house (garage, shed, outside on a nice day) to do work on them so you don't spread lead dust all over your house. If you can set up a little containment zone with some plastic sheeting on the ground, that's good practice. EPA would have you go nuts with plastic and tyvek suits and so on. That may be overkill, but common sense tells you to minimize spreading lead dust around your house and keep it out of your body. Also, if it's possible to pull off the old trim and the old window sills and replace that with new trim while you've got the sashes out, that will get rid of another huge source of lead paint. If not, consider repainting those pieces with encapsulating paint after you put it all back together.

  6. The biggest lesson I learned is DON'T DO THEM ALL AT ONCE! We had to because we needed to renovate the whole house. But it sounds like you don't have to. Pick a room where you can live without a window for a little while, like the attic or a rarely used guest bedroom. Pull ONE window apart and figure out how it works. Repair and replace that one window. Then do a second window in that room, and so on. As you get better at it, you might move up to pulling all of the windows in a single room out at the same time.

  7. Steam is your friend. Buy a steamer. The size and type depend on how much work you will be doing. I tried a couple and found this one to be the most ideal. Steam will soften up paint and putty so that you can easily scrape it right off.

  8. You'll want some good specialty tools. I really like these scrapers. One. Two. Three. I also found this set of small prybars (especially the very smallest one) to be invaluable in getting old windows apart.

  9. If you're going to be doing a bunch of windows, set yourself up with a really comfortable work zone including a big flat work surface (plywood over sawhorses) and a place to put all your scrapers, glazing tools, etc. Hopefully you have a garage or shed where you can leave stuff for a while.

  10. And last but not least...don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. These windows are 150 years old. You can go insane building steam stripping boxes and trying to make the paint perfect and trying to get everything functioning the way it did the day the house was built. But you don't have to. Just get them to the point where they open and close, the glass is not broken or rattling, and they are reasonably weatherstripped. Let the exterior storms do more of the work on energy efficiency. I would definitely NOT recommend putting each sash into a steam box and stripping all of the glazing and paint and starting from scratch. That way lies madness.

    OK, on to your questions.

  • Here's a great video about disassembling a window. I found all sorts of amazing things done to the windows in my house that made them hard to disassemble. Generally speaking, first cut the paint between the sash and the frame with a utility knife and see if that works. If not, look for nails and screws that might be holding the window sash in place. Often these are painted over and are hard to find.

  • It seems you might have single sash windows. That's unusual for an 1870s house but not completely unheard of. I had some of those in my house. After you've taken all the trim off and removed the lower sash, you will be able to pull the top sash out. There will be something holding it in place. Figure out what that thing is and remove it. As for the lower sashes, previous owners might have gotten frustrated with broken sash cords and covered up the pocket holes. When you disassemble the window you will hopefully be able to figure out what they did and undo it.

  • There are plenty of good guides on how to weatherize old windows. The DOE has a great page on the topic with links to detailed instructions on a variety of methods. The video series linked below is also good.

    General resources and tools I found useful:

  • The Save America's Windows forum, organized by topic, is a gem (if not always easy to find what you're looking for).

  • This 4-part window rehab workshop youtube video series is pretty good.

  • Book 1: Save America's Windows: Caring for older and historic wood windows.

  • Book 2: The Window Sash Bible: a A Guide to Maintaining and Restoring Old Wood Windows
u/Blunt_Force_Meep · 28 pointsr/Chattanooga

Plastic Razor Blades are a safe way to remove stickers and decals. They don't scratch like metal razor blades can.

Amazon Link

u/Trendiggity · 14 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

These things are great for taking decals off of painted surfaces, btw.

u/Gullex · 12 pointsr/Bushcraft

Look for "scout carry" style sheaths.

Or, get something like a tec lock that you can adjust to suit your needs.

Alternatively, if you find a knife you really like and want a leather scout style sheath made, and are willing to pay shipping from the states, PM me. Here is a dangler style sheath I just made.

u/AlfonsoTheX · 7 pointsr/woodworking

Unless I miss my mark, it's a paint scraper with rounded profiles and point to get into recessed areas.

u/Xonim · 6 pointsr/boardgames

I can't see the videos or image, but it sounds like you need to change the blades more often. For some reason or another, cutting foam with a standard blade dulls it VERY quickly. I made 1 insert with regular blades before I switched to using these ceramic blades.

With regular blades, you'll probably go through 5-6 blades per insert, if not more. For clean edges, I was changing blades every 6-8 cuts. With ceramic blades, I've made 4-5 inserts with just 1 blade and haven't even flipped it. Make multiple passes for each cut -- 1 to get through the top paper, 1 through the foam, and 1 through the bottom paper.

u/the_dark_0ne · 4 pointsr/2meirl4meirl

Oh it's a barcode!!! Thanks 🙏🏼

u/alaorath · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Heat it up "hot" (like 100C if you can). then carefully scrape with a razor-blade... preferably in a holder such as this:

https://www.amazon.ca/STANLEY-28-500-Razor-Scraper-Blades/dp/B00002X1ZX

Do not use a PLA printed blade holder... it will deform from the heat transfer before you're done. :)

It goes without saying... wear heat protection (BBQ or welder gloves, or good 'ol oven mits)

u/Inspector_Butters · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I did the same and finally decided on the Izula II.
Got a Tek-Lok and EDC it.

u/poopchute53 · 2 pointsr/knives

Sounds like you need a fixed blade knife for combat and a good folder for utility work and as a back up. Can’t say too much for fixed blades, I’d probably go to the sporting goods stores around you and feel one in person so you can decide how you like the feel of each one. If you’re looking for a solid folder I’d take a look at one of these:

Milwaukee 48-22-1998B Knife Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYNKRD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lOQNDbXD4VXBY

Came with a good edge and has survived being my work knife for over a year now, cutting mostly plastic, tape, and cardboard. Don’t use the serrated edge much but it’s sharp. It opens and closes so crisply and smoothly, I’ve been super impressed by it. The pocket clip has a little depression in it that helps you draw it from your pocket and deploys pretty fast once you get a feel for it. It’s a very good knife for the price point, I’m even considering ordering another in case I lose the one I have now.

u/thesmokedjoint · 2 pointsr/BBQ

Best I can tell ya is to keep your skins really cold before scraping them and try using a duller knife. Do one or two thighs at a time. I've seen guys use paint scrapers such as this or this before with decent results.

u/tampon_whistle · 2 pointsr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Double-Edged-Blades-Scraper/dp/B004623NU2

plastic razor blades, people use them all the time to scrape off like glue or those tacky sticker pin stripes without damaging the cars paint.

u/kv4268 · 2 pointsr/homemaking

I just scrubbed a kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom tile floor and it turned out amazing! Here's what I used: This grout cleaner with this amazing grout brush. Then I used a larger scrub brush like this with this tile cleaner. Anything that didn't come off with that I scraped off with a razor blade scraper like this. When I was done I sealed the grout with this. I used a small artist paint brush to apply it. The brush that comes on the bottle isn't very useful.


This may be overkill if you're just trying to get the job done, but I wanted to do the job right (and get rid of a gross odor from the old roommate) and make sure I wouldn't have to do it again for a while. I'll use my steam mop to maintain it, as the whole apartment is tile.

u/rudbear · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I originally started on this idea and unfortunately most chisel blades tolerances aren't precise enough and the jig has to be 3D printed or created using a material that won't deform (shrink, stretch, bend, etc.). I even designed a jig for the narrowest chisel blades I could find and they still collide with the outside box wall of the box stem. It wound up being as much as the tool to make that jig fix the blades consistently.

Sharpening doesn't take that much effort and is hard to mess up (we even ran a file across the edges to test and it cut alright when ground flat).

u/66GT350Shelby · 2 pointsr/woodworking

What's the box for? If that's the inside of the bottom, and it wont be seen, then I wouldnt even worry about it.

I cover the inside of a lot of my small boxes with an insert covered in fabric.

The easiest way to clean up squeeze out, is to do it before the glue hardens.

Either do it as soon as it appears with a damp rag, or let it set up a bit and scrape it out with a sharp chisel or a scraper. I find a paint roller scraper tool works great for this.

In your case, it's going to be a PITA. I'd use a triangle style molding scraper. Here's an example. triangle scraper.

u/flsucks · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It depends on how crazy you want to get with with it. If you paint over it as it is now, you will always see the outline of layers under the new paint. You could scrape it all off with a paint scraper and go all the way down to the concrete. This will give you a much better finish but is very time consuming and labor intensive. It just depends on how much you care about the result.

As far as the temp question, it’s best to apply the product within manufacturer guidelines. If it’s too cold, wait a bit until it’s within the temp range in the instructions.

u/KatKatzeChat · 2 pointsr/ZeroWaste

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HPFGQ2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_q37QCb77A829R
Something like this works wonders! They also last forever.

u/twwilliams · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

Rather than a metal blade, use one of the plastic blades that is less likely to scratch the surface.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Razor-Scraper-Blades-Double/dp/B0046ZUNY8

u/jaweeks · 2 pointsr/knives

Doesn't that sheath bolt to a Tek-Lock?

u/prescribedburn · 2 pointsr/Autos

I used a combination of heat (hair dryer), Goo Gone, and these orange plastic razor blades to debadge my car. It was brand new off the lot so that's all I needed. If these letters have baked in the sun a bit, I'd expect paint fading. You'll need a clay bar and some elbow grease to blend that.

u/petitmorte2 · 2 pointsr/Parenting

I use Goo Gone (the orange-oil stuff) and a plastic razor blade to get sticker gunk off almost anything. Most of the time, I can get stickers off things with just the plastic blade and without destroying the sticker.

u/frinh · 2 pointsr/FulfillmentByAmazon

If it's not stickered on paper, then apply goo gone and wait like an hour. They just peel off.

I use goo gone and this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004623NU2 nothing has defeated me yet.

u/Sir_Lags_A_Lot_ · 2 pointsr/Truckers
u/DesolationRobot · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Hardwood floor guys use pull scrapers to get into corners. Then hit it with a hard sanding block to even out the surface sheen.

Pick up a fine flat file to keep the scraper sharp.

u/trillionsin · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Gerber Pocket Knife - Exchange A Blade

With Titanium edge blades

I already have this, so I wont ask for any gifting.

It's small/thin, has a strong clip. You can replace the blades very cheaply, or get expensive ones like I posted (Irwin 50 pack for 12.69 Prime is a cheaper higher quantity option)

u/ronin0012 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have used a plastic razor blade to great effect on things like this (similar trim adhesive, ancient pine sap, road tar). They can be found at home depot (though I can't locate them on the website, link goes to amazon) and have a handle accessory that is pretty convenient. I used the same soap/water mixture for claying and made sure the water film was thick on the paint.

u/sigismond0 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

For cutting, use a regular utility knife with replacable blades. I find exacto knives to be too small and fiddly for big work like this. I very strongly recommend splurging and getting ceramic blades. Metal blades wear out very quickly, but I still haven't even dulled one side of a ceramic blade on all of these inserts.

In lieu of that, a breakable blade utilty knife is a decent option as well. Just be sure to break the blade often to keep it good and sharp.

u/DSPoh · 2 pointsr/pics

Razor scraper. I use this set, but I think one of the wider ones would be more sufficient.

To be honest, though, those kids use so much damn glue that I don't have time to scrape them everyday. I usually do it about once every other week.

u/javaavril · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

And I didn't know about that blog, another win for me!

Hey I noticed you said $9 for a scraper and 10 blades, the ones I found on amazon are $7 for 100 blades that can be used in a standard scraper if you've already got one for metal blades

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Edge-Plastic-Razor-Blades/dp/B0165N8JLC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509664613&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+razor+blades

u/edheler · 2 pointsr/preppers

In my GHB and INCH bags I have a 2-3 of something like these instead of double edged razor blades. If you want to use them for shaving you can always use your multitool to pop off the metal on the side so it fits in old style razors.

u/HeadWright · 1 pointr/TerrainBuilding

X-Acto with a #17 'Chisel' blade.

u/SCV-OG · 1 pointr/knives

Ya it's the same style but with a 5.8" blade and a really nice rubberized handle that's good and grippy. I got it here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0090UW9W8?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2.

u/McDot · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

plastic razor blade?

looks like you could use finger nails to pick it off but those might be faster, i know they have just a little holder and like 3 blades somewhere but thats the first thing i came up on

u/electronic_cig_SS · 1 pointr/SubredditSimulator

plastic razor blade?. looks like a good thirty seconds, blew a guys mind at all.

u/LankyJon · 1 pointr/boardgames

These!

They last for multiple(10-15+) projects before going dull. Much more expensive than metal, but, in my opinion, absolutely worth it.

u/GreenHobbyist · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

I too have given myself a few bad cuts. I ended up getting a blade holder that works amazingly well. You can also pickup a pack of these blades for a great price. I recommend quickly rinsing the blades in some ISO before scraping to ensure you get all the oil off that was used during manufacturing. Cheers :)

u/Assstray · 1 pointr/knives

The knives are too thick, especially right behind the edge.

This is usually done so the knives are more durable. Some of my pocket knives are thinner than straight razors near the edge. Durable they are not but for light duty they can't be beat. Food prep is light duty.

If you want a reference for high cutting performance look into big scalpels. Just glue it to a wooden dowel as a handle.

Some cheap steak knives are really thin too and if you grind a plain edge they make amazing food cutters.

https://www.amazon.com/Havalon-Knives-9004755-Stainless-Replacement/dp/B011730QDY

u/Magic_man1231 · 1 pointr/cade

Plastic razor blades and heat from a heat gun do wonders on old decals. you can get the blades pretty cheap on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Double-Edged-Razor-Scraper/dp/B004623NU2

u/madeyefire · 1 pointr/publix

Amazon.

Pacific Handy Cutter S4R Safety Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q5ZG3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J7pYAbNXGRM88

S4, S5, S7, Replacement Blade, Safety Point Blade, .017, SP017 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FJ9U8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-7pYAb9B4CS32

u/jdsamford · 1 pointr/Guitar

You can get plastic razor-like scrapers that might do the trick. Some folks are suggestion Goo Gone, which works great, but might damage the finish, so apply sparingly and maybe test it on the backside of the guitar first. Magic Erasers used lightly may also do it.

u/Snowstorm-3 · 1 pointr/Advice

Try using a razor blade to gently scrape off the stuck food. They sell these to make it easier.

u/Mortazel · 1 pointr/knives

Gerber EAB & 250 blades (5x 50 packs) Irwin Industrial Tools Bi-Metal Blue Utility Blade, 50-Pack

I can open boxes for the rest of my life!

For an EDC: 2x Spyderco Delica 4

u/cynikalAhole99 · 1 pointr/knives

so....he is hunting a deer with a knife? Ballsy... ;)

Some excellent quality durably built knives well in that price range for me that have proven durable and rugged for daily use/abuse and long term edge holding come from Mora Knives in Sweden IMO... They can be found on Amazon - prices range depending on model from $12 - $150..average however is around $30 for about a 6" blade. I've done a lot with my Mora knives including skinning/cleaning. Great every day camp and outdoor knives... Be warned - these come SUPER SHARP out of the sheath..

u/strikervulsine · 1 pointr/kroger

I got your back





https://phcsafety.com/safety-cutter-sfty-pt-blade-100-ctsp017.html

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Blade-Safety-Point-SP017/dp/B003FJ9U8Q

By the way, the knives are called S4 Safety Cutters.

I'd look around and see if you can find them cheaper than 17 cents per blade.

u/Kayanota · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

If you are going to pay 10 bucks for a clip, I'd look at Tek Loks. They come with everything to mount to kydex eyelets.

u/huntero7298 · 1 pointr/funny

These and some Goo Gone do wonders for removing stickers without damaging the paint.

u/cyborgcanuck · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Pair this up with plastic razor blade if one wants to be safer, and worried about gouging your bed.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Razor-Scraper-Blades-Double/dp/B0046ZUNY8/

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u/NeilOhighO · 1 pointr/civic

No, no, plastic razor blades are literally made of plastic and designed to not scratch. https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Razor-Scraper-Blades-Double/dp/B0046ZUNY8

u/resrvsgate · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

I don't like blades that bend, either. That was my other problem with hobby knives. I feel like I might come off as overselling. Just to clarify, when I say single-edge razors, I mean something like this: American Safety Razor 66-0089 Single Edge Razor Blade Box. They don't bend at all.

u/diamondeath · 1 pointr/AskCulinary
u/Arkanoid0 · 1 pointr/Magic

Plastic razor blades are a thing, usually sold as scrapers for using on plastic surfaces and cars and the like. You can likely find them at your local hardware store, but here is an Amazon link I found just by searching "plastic razor blades" on Google. http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Double-Edged-Razor-Scraper/dp/B004623NU2

u/Walmart_Valet · 1 pointr/knives

Picked up a Tek-Lok clip years ago, great for a mid back belt scout carry. Also check out some scales for it. Not carrying it today or I would post pictures of how it sits.


TekLok Holster

Scales