Best kvm switches according to redditors
We found 636 Reddit comments discussing the best kvm switches. We ranked the 159 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
15. Lantronix 1PORT USB Remote KVM Kvm/IP Spider (SLS200USB0-01)
8 mentions
Product Type: KVM Extender
I know it's expensive, but if it's critical to the job - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ
Fits in your pocket and doesn't require you to plug into a customer's PDU's.
The screen is switch per display and I use a USB switch to switch the USB inputs.
Switch: https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Sharing-Keyboard-Scanner-Printer/dp/B01N6GD9JO
http://www.amazon.com/Console-Portable-Laptop-Crash-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ ?
I've seen IBM techs use the StarTech adapter http://www.amazon.com/Console-Portable-Laptop-Crash-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ/ref=pd_cp_pc_0
All the above, with a few extras;
Things to have but probably leave in the car depending on how often you find them in use.
Some 'maybe' things - nice to have them in your mind but for most technicians it's overkill. Do the space/cost/how much you'll use it math.
Probably more I'm forgetting. Big part of my last job was going to sites with lots to do and little time.. there was always a bunch of things that came up so I learned it was best to just be prepared for anything, it saves you so much time and stress in the long run and makes you look like a god to the clients when every time something comes up, you handle it easily.
Edit: Cool stuff others have posted:
Our's no longer have keyboard, mouse, etc on it...
Replaced by:
http://www.amazon.com/Console-Portable-Laptop-Crash-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ/ref=sr_1_1/189-5265892-4772656?ie=UTF8&qid=1416951535&sr=8-1&keywords=startech+usb+kvm&pebp=1416951538797
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543342731&sr=8-3&keywords=startech+usb+kvm
Not the poster, but I use this one on my passthrough setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO
NSFW :)
bring a thin laptop to work and hide it behind your work computer and use a switch to switch to your laptop using this switch. I was learning to code on my thin laptop
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https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=switch+monitor&qid=1566802175&s=gateway&sr=8-15
http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411608219&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+monitor+kvm+switch
I have a little USB KVM switch I got on Amazon... it hooks up to the MacBook Pro dock and to the back of the PC... hit a button and it switches instantly.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ae6LBb0NK025S
I Googled "USB switch" and the first result is a device that allows switching of connected devices between two computers.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?gclid=COnFzLuvi7oCFYaDQgodbiYAKg
Would that work?
As already advised, take the PC off the desk to create more space, then get a monitor arm that handles two monitors, this will also clear some desk space. As for using your macbook with it, You'd need to get a HDMI switcher and usb KVM which you would run your PC and Macbook through. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UNX0ZBS?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzsvEBRDEluzk96e4rqABEiQAezEOoBfmM-0_uYdNdYKEHA9m6UeQgsn3ifzYeIueHja9YBcaAiLj8P8HAQ HDMI Switcher and https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y for the USB
If I understand your questions correct, as in connected to both but not playing the audio from both at the same time?! Then yes, it's possible. I run the same setup. PS4 and PC on my desk and Arctis connected to both so I don't have to change wires or settings when switching where I need sound from.
You'll need to buy a bit of extra bits though. Let me elaborate:
You need 2 IN and 1 OUT (!!!). You'll then connect both the PS4 and the PC to the 2 IN ports and the OUT port goes into the transmitter.
You'll need to do the same for the USB, get a similar box:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=psdc_430058031_t2_B074TYDJK2
Connect a USB lead from both the PS4 and the PC to the IN ports and the OUT port goes into the Transmitter.
My two splitter boxes have hardware switches so even if both devices are running, I can toggle sound with a button push (USB switches automatically but toslink is manual). I find that better than auto switching, especially when both are running.
Again, parts you need:
If your PC supplies USB power while it is switched off, the Transmitter keeps getting power to recharge the batteries. Make sure to set the Display to timeout in that case to avoid burn in!
So with a bit of extra hardware it is possible and works a treat. You can get real short cables to keep it tidy. I mounted the switches on the wall and have just enough length to get to the boxes.
Not a KVM but just KM / USB Switch between the macbook pro and the PC. 😁
This one actually: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
I can't find any KVM that would give me over 60hz at 1440p or Display Port, so my solution is to use HDMI for the Mac (50/60hz is ok i guess), and Display Port for the PC to utilize its gaming capability.
I carry this in my digital go-bag. KVM Console to USB2. It's not DVI, but it works great. Not exactly what you're looking for, but if you have a laptop it's very easy to hook this up and diagnose a problem. I use it daily for work and randomly for the homelab.
I bought an adjustable standing desk base from Amazon or Wayfair, you want something electric like this.
A standing desk mat is also a must-have. Spend the extra money and get a higher quality one than the Amazon basics. Those flake apart and break down fast. I have been using this one for about 2 years now and it's holding up great.
After a week or two you can stand all the time at your desk, no issues. I find it much more enjoyable than sitting. I stand 99% of the time now.
If you're like me and your job is more about getting your work done than making sure you stare at a screen for 8 hours a day, then I would also suggest a switchable USB hub that lets you change your mouse/keyboard between your personal PC and work PC easily. This also helps save a ton of space. Something like this.
As far as monitors, I just use different inputs and use the same monitors between work/personal PCs. Work on inputs 2, personal on input 1.
If you find you can't focus when you need to then you might need to separate work and personal computers/setups more.
You can get USB switch ICs that will switch the data lines
https://www.mouser.co.uk/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Switch-ICs/USB-Switch-ICs/_/N-7591u
Or products like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Sharing-Keyboard-Scanner-Printer-Black/dp/B01N6GD9JO
Search for: usb switch box
The products are designed to switch devices between different hosts, not different devices per host, so I assume they just switch a USB hub between each PC. I doubt they make one to switch the output as it's USB - everything shades the bus.
Put physical switch on the power lines to the drives is probably the simplest way. Or use a microcontroller + MOSFET
You could wrangle this somehow: https://github.com/mvp/uhubctl
Or get a USB RAID enclosure
This is what you need:
UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB Sharing Switch Box for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 4.9ft USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A6GOAbFKVM0AX
to get sound, depends on what speakers you are using.
StarTech.com KVM Console to Laptop USB 2.0 Portable Crash Cart Adapter with File Transfer (NOTECONS02)
There's rack mount consoles (I have an HP TFT7600) that plug into an outlet with keyboard, mouse, and screen built in.
I'm not aware of a product that fits the exact description of what you want. However if you were to obtain a netbook or laptop screen, the controller board for it (found online using the model # of the screen), and rig up a battery for power you could make your own.
On further inspection there's this adapter that's a little over the top price wise.
It's on sale on Amazon for over $100 cheaper by the way.
Simple solution is a kvm switch. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SV231DDVDUA-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
That will not work.
You need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0/ref=sr_1_3
This is a bit different from what you described, but you might be able to achieve a similar workflow by passing GPUs through to your VMs and using a KVM switch to redirect your monitors & usb devices to different GPUs attached to different VMs.
Here's what you'd need:
- Pretty much any Linux distro
- More than one GPU
- At least two PCIe USB controllers
- A motherboard and CPU that support passing PCI devices to virtual machines
- A kvm switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Port-Dual-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E
- The awesome community at /r/VFIO
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It'll take a lot of setup, but once you're done you'll be able to toggle through your VMs just by pressing buttons on the KVM switch, plus you'll get full performance from the GPUs which is great if you plan on gaming.
​
I hope this helps!
I use one of these USB switches to switch my USB hub between my Mac and PC. Works pretty well, press a button and switch monitor input.
> I understand that USB is master/slave, in that there's no way you can "sniff" usb lines.
Other way around, because it's M/S you can only sniff the protocol as a third party.
> However, how can I wire it up so that one can read/write to the hub at a time?
Yes, but you'll need a specific device for that. Note: mass storage is exactly the kind of thing you don't want to use this with due to file system consistency issues.
> I would imagine I would need to integrate a relay of some sort, but unsure of how this can be done, if at all
Yea, get another device that drives a relay with USB and then have that relay toggle the switch on the first device for you. Once you're tired of the frankenstein mess, you can either build your own integrated device to do exactly this, hope someone else builds one, or just share the filesystem over the network.
If it uses a USB dongle, you could use something like this. But I don't think there's any way to use a switcher on Bluetooth.
I had two towers (personal and client's machine) for quite a few years, and just used a KVM switch (mouse and monitor only, used the monitor inputs to handle video), but I already had the switch from the old days so it made sense to use it.
I think I'd just find a USB switch for the devices you need....
http://www.amazon.com/plugable/dp/B006Z0Q2SI?gclid=CPiR95GKrboCFUhk7AodaWAA0w
I haven't used this, it's just the first one I found in Google. There are probably lots of others out there.
Well, you could move the camera. Find a comfortable space for a potential cockpit, see where you'd need the camera to be, and find a little stand for it, along with a USB extension cord to go along the edge of the room. If the headset's wires aren't long enough to properly extend to you from that position, you could find an HDMI and USB extension cords for it as well. If you want the cameras to be static, you could buy a second camera to sit in the middle of the room, and use a USB switch to switch between them (I personally use this one to switch between my PS3 and PS4, but there are other options out there).
Otherwise, I'd also agree that a fold up stand would probably be best here. I have the Apiga AP2, which also has the option for the seat mount (though you'd have to source the seat). You could have the stand folded up in a closet with the seat, and when you want to race, put them together in the middle of the room, and enjoy. There are other folding mounts out there, but the AP2 is the only one that I know of that also has an option for seating, and most of the other ones have a bar that goes between your legs.
Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.
If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.
Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9
(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V
(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT
And about 4 HDMI cables.
All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.
There is an easy way, use one these for your mouse and another for your keyboard. I velcro'd mine under my desk and just tapped it when I want to swap.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y?th=1
They do have HDBaseT boxes that include USB as well all over the single Ethernet wire. All the ones I have seen are pretty expensive though but maybe you can find an affordable one.
Here is one of the cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Extender-Keyboard-Management/dp/B01GYKVWC4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497684902&sr=8-1&keywords=hdbaset+usb
It's definitely a budget system - but still way more powerful than my old laptop whose hard drive is failing. It's actually a factory refurb from the Dell outlet, I managed to grab it for just under $500 with a coupon.
They USB switch is great, no crawling under the desk. I got this one from Amazon. It's held up under front of the desk with a Velcro cable tie, stapled to the bottom of the desk. Proper cable management is coming within the next couple of weekends!
KVM switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MXXQKGM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f0dedbe2-13c8-4136-a746-4398ed93cf0f&pd_rd_wg=kI7LT&pf_rd_r=FDNT0K6V7Y6BP5745F3S&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=nAeS6&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=c1379f52-ec65-11e8-bbc4-8bb98d0238f1
​
Helps switch my keyboard and mouse between my laptop and desktop
Here is what I use.
UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.nxPCbW11KDFT
I have a two Mac setup (one for work, one that’s mine) connected to a wireless mouse and keyboard running through one of these switches and it works flawlessly. It could easily work with a Mac/pc setup. I actually had it working that way before swapping my work windows machine for a Mac.
Edit: because I left out “mouse”
Get a Pluggable USB-3 dock, a male DVI to female VGA adapter, a USB 3 sharing switcher, and a female USB 3 to male USB-C OTG cable. I promise absolutely nothing
Plugable USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station for Windows (Dual Video HDMI & DVI / VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECDM78E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_30Q1Ab3BX3P9J
UGREEN USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Selector 4 Port 2 Computers Peripheral Switcher Adapter Hub for PC, Printer, Scanner, Mouse, Keyboard with One Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53Q1AbPGC4FS6
I've debated the time it'll take to document vs. how many people might actually replicate it, and decided it's probably not worth it, but basically:
I use Cron to periodically run a script that checks for my wifi network.
When WiFi is detected, the GPIO pins + relay toggle the USB sharing switch (effectively unplugs the SSD from the Tesla and plugs it into the Pi), and then the script mounts the SSD to the Pi. Aside: I prefer this approach over the TeslaPi project, because the SSD is more durable/reliable.
At this point, Apache NiFi picks up the files and uploads them to S3.
I do some other stuff to basically give the Pi a big uninterruptable power supply, but - again - just more details...
Resolution and refresh rate specifications are regularly included in the tech specs of DP KVM model.
You can see here where they advertise 4k(4096x2160) at 30hz.
Here is a model advertised at 4k(4096x2160) at 60hz.
Finally, here is one that advertises at UHD(3840x2160) at 60Hz while also supporting DP 1.2a.
KVMs aren't straight pass through. There is a board sitting in between your computers and the display. Its capabilities will dictate performance you receive on the output. There is also the cost being a factor. If OP wants DP 1.2a support they are going to spend hundreds of dollars. I think they are better off trying to get the cable from Valve.
You can but its expensive
https://www.amazon.com/1PORT-USB-Remote-KVM-Spider/dp/B000OH5MDO
Yes, such devices exist, they probably don't use RDP though. You're looking for a KVM over IP device. Unfortunately there are a lot of devices advertised in that category that aren't real KVM over IP devices but just extenders that use CAT5/6 cable or devices that interface to a larger KVM system, so you need to carefully examine the product. Because they're made for servers the ones I've seen so far only support VGA (not HDMI or DP). I'm also not sure how they're protected, you may have to run them through a VPN if you want to use them over the internet.
Here's an example of such a device. However, it looks like it uses very outdated technology, with reliance on Java browser plugins, etc. I suspect most of these devices are using outdated technology because modern servers all have this stuff directly build into the motherboard (through LOM).
Like this? http://www.amazon.com/1PORT-USB-Remote-KVM-Spider/dp/B000OH5MDO/
If it's just the keyboard there are a lot of AB switches out there for that, example: Plugable USB 2.0 Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers (A/B switch)
If you want to share the keyboard, mouse, and monitor then you are looking for a KVM switch: IOGEAR 2-Port USB KVM Switch with Cables and Remote, GCS22U
{no endorsement of products or sellers implied}
Yep. I use this one because it was the cheapest at the time. I just use the USB input/output and the switch button and leave the VGA cable hanging behind the pcs.
The one above works fine, but I'd probably buy this one since it has more usb ports and doesn't have the unnecessary VGA cables. (Check to make sure everything you need is included. Looks like that might be missing a power source).
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494887205&sr=8-3&keywords=kvm
I was looking at it for the KVM use as well as most KVM switches are a bit more expensive. This one seems to have decent reviews and isnt insanely expensive https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482864076&sr=1-3&keywords=kvm+switch
I hope that's not the way you actually use it. The ergonomics look terrible.
I'd get a KVM switch and get rid of one of the monitors. Then prop the optiplex on its side and possibly put it on the floor if there is space in the foot area or the gap between the table and wall.
The laptop could even go on that bottom wire shelf.
That way you have a mostly clear working space and can adjust the main monitor so you aren't looking down when you're working. That's assuming you're OK with using just one monitor for your work.
You know if you hit the share button, you can copy the short link?
https://amzn.com/B001D1UTC4
https://amzn.com/B00006HSM2
https://amzn.com/B003M0NURK
(ok, I'll shut up now)
I've never tried it, but I was pondering over getting one of these at one point:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ
Then we changed buildings and have a trolly (http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mjQFr7CuR8Yyx8Y5Ztwt7Xw.jpg). That we keep in the hot isle, that has a monitor and keyboard sitting on top.
Splitters would result in duplicated display.
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Essentially, you need to switch both display signals. You can get dual-monitor KVMs or even link up some single-monitor KVMs to switch multiple monitors.
Everything checks out, as far as I can tell.
For monitor switching, you just need a KVM that supports two monitors. Something like this: StarTech Dual KVM... I literally did 5-seconds of searching for that, so this is just an example to get you started, not an endorsement.
Well the way I dealt with this problem was to get a really nice laptop to do all my coding, IDEs, etc. I code at school and on the go. At home in my comfortable desk:
So when I get home, i connect my laptop to the switch that connects to the my keyboard, monitor, mouse and speakers.
So Im basically coding in my confortable office chair, big monitor, gaming keyboard and mouse. If I need to switch computers, i press a bottom that switches my screen, keyboard, mouse and speakers to my desktop can computer.
This is the switch I have.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU
What you are wanting is a KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse) switch particularly a KVM switch with HDMI. This will allow you to use a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor to control two different computers with a single click of a button.
Something like this KVM Switch. This is just a quick glance and Amazon and I'm sure you can probably find cheaper ones out there.
Lol, 2 games at once on the same pi; not going to happen. What you could is get an HDMI/USB kvm switch to swap the 2nd controls/screen between pi1 and pi2. Pi1 would need some sort of HDMI splitter to connect both screen1 and the kvm switch.
Terrible mockup. Red=HDMI green=USB. Sorry, im running late to work and did this on my phone
A kvm is definitely the easiest way to go. Why wouldn't this work? There are dozens of HDMI KVMs on Amazon. IOGEAR 2-Port HD Cable KVM Switch with Audio GCS62HU (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_w2OIwbQQHJR5D
Here's the one I was talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YCUDMU/ref=psdcmw_13983771_t1_B001V9LQ52
First off, no matter what you do, you'll be getting some lag from the console. It may not be noticeable. You've got the right pieces for the puzzle, I just don't know how much lag that DAC will introduce. What model is your TV - does it have an analog out? RCA or headphones. That might be simpler than using the DAC.
\> And then my mic is USB and will plug into this USB switch which will then run unto my console and pc.
This part (the mic setup) should work fine. if the mic works on both platforms, the USB switch looks like a simple passive passthrough. So it will be like directly connecting to one device or the other.
Probably something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1497423536&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+switch
I haven't tried it, but this USB A/B switch should probably do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
(E. T. A. : assuming its a USB mic)
Could go for something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458937403&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+switch
There are ones with built in hubs and others that switch monitors with usb stuff, but you can already just change the input on the monitor. Plus, might affect display quantity. Idk. Back to work...
This should do the trick https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
This is the switch I use: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419643320&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+switch
I haven't had any problem with it really. OSX seems to notice the switchover faster than Windows though. Sometimes Windows can take like 10 seconds to register that the keyboard and mouse are re-attached.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
That seems like a cheap solution. There's a USB 3 version if you need it
Plugable Technologies on Amazon. I ordered a USB peripheral sharing switch from them. It came in this box.
I think this would work.
Although idk if that's an actual order page. I don't think this would support the full resolution/frame rate.
I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works wonderfully.
Please note that this is just DISPLAYPORT and not Thunderbolt. You can use it as a monitor hooked up to a Thunderbolt port, but you'll only get the displayport info through it - if you have a Thunderbolt display, all the stuff like ethernet ports and usb ports will not go through it.
Along with the KVM switch for the monitor there are also USB switches for sharing some other hardware. Until I switched to a large monitor I had a monitor KVM switch and the USB switch to go between my work and personal computer. I then got an Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse which let me switch between three machines with a push of a button. Definitely helped clean up the desk a bit.
I recently started using this Pluggable USB 3 switching device to switch a USB hub between two computers I have set up. MY work laptop and home PC. Went for the 3.0 version to have the speed. They have cheaper 2.0 versions as well I think.
It's a bit pricey but damn does it ever fill the exact need I had. Maybe it'd help your situation as well.
Pretty much I have it at the edge of my desk and just press a button to switch which computer's getting the signals.
I have never seen an USB C KVM device.
You could just switch HDMI and USB separately. This has the biggest chance of working without a hitch as there are no signals split or converted, however it requires switching twice every time and two cables plugged into each laptop.
You could use two USB C to DisplayPort adapters (preferably USB C to DP + USB A) and then a DisplayPort KVM or this one has cables built on and one MST hub to split the DP signal after switching.
The forthcoming solution works if you do not need audio.
I have one of these for my KVM: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-port-DisplayPort-Switch-Built/dp/B00UVH9PRQ
And one of these for my Mac (retina MacBook Pro); it should be compatible with USB-C based Macs: https://accessories.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=gen&sku=452-BCYT
I will use the StarTech SV231DPU2 as an example.
The back has 2 DisplayPort inputs, 2 USB 2.0 outputs, and a third DisplayPort that outputs to the monitor.
The front has a selection switch, indicator lights, and 3 USB inputs.
You plug your keyboard, mouse, and mouse into the switch and then connect the switch to two PC's. It is a combination of USB hub and physical switch.
If you just want occasional control of the second PC you might be better off installing a VNC server and remotely controlling it.
Okay, got it. DisplayPort 1.2 and HDMi 2.0 both support 3440x1440 at 100 Hz, so you have some options.
Something like this looks like it would work pretty well. It looks like only the mini Displayport version is DP 1.2 though.
Otherwise you could go for an HDMi 2.0 switch like this and then pair it with some adapters like this.
You mean like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sharing-Peripheral-Switcher-Adapter-Printer/dp/B01CU4QCRS
I've had to remove this post as it belongs in the tech support sticky post.
You could attempt something like this depending on how close the PC and the Xbox are in your setup. You would still have to hit the switch to swap between PC and Xbox mode.
Note that I have never tested this so I am unsure if it would actually work. Further, they do not list an Astro A20 transmitter on their website for sale. You could try to contact them to see if you could purchase one or check ebay.
I just bought this switch for my Wired Pro + GAMEDAC and it's awesome. It switches to the input that is on, actually turns off when both systems are off, and still allows for RGB customization. I have not actually used it for online play, but when I test the mic out in the system settings, it shows that it is picking up my voice.
Hope this helps!
I use a USB switcher (two inputs/one output)with a PS4 and Switch. I was having A LOT of problems at first with the USB switcher automatically jumping over to the Switch when on PS4. I found out that once the Pro Wireless transceiver has it’s own dedicated power source, my cheap switcher doesn’t switch ports on me anymore. Played MHW (Arch Tempered Kushala is a pushover) last night for about four hours without a problem.
Link to the USB switcher
UGREEN USB Sharing Switch USB 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I did the same thing before with my g533. I used a USB sharing hub. Just had to push a button on the hub to switch. It auto switched also I think when turning on PS4. This is what I used. https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Sharing-Peripheral-Switcher-Adapter/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=ugreen+usb+share&qid=1570937380&sr=8-5
What's the point of the external keyboards if you still have to reach for the trackpad? Get a USB switch or Synergy and use a single keyboard and mouse for both laptops and you'd have a better experience in my opinion.
I use a USB switch I plug my keyboard into the switch then connect the two computers to the switch via USB. Then I can toggle between the two at any time.
Something like this on Amazon
UGREEN USB 2.0 Sharing Switch 2 Port, USB Peripheral Switcher Adapter Box Hub 2 PCs Share 1 USB Device for Printer Scanner with 2 Pack USB 2.0 Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gB3VAbS3GH3PZ
This may look familiar, I posted my setup briefly a couple weeks ago but deleted it. I’ve since made some changes and took better photos. Now I’m ready to share!
I switch between the PC & Mac with a USB switch that’s connected to a hub with my keyboard/mouse/mic/webcam/etc, and then change the input source on the monitor. The TV above me isn’t normally on, I really only use it when on the couch behind me.
I use the MacBook 90% of the time, but when it’s time to do video editing or rendering I fire up the big boy:
16-Core AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 3.4GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
32GB DDR4
500GB SSD + 3TB HDD
---
The rest:
LG 34” Monitor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JKT894/
ATS Acoustic Panels
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QH2RJW2/
Table Lamp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XPNS3Z/
Monitor Stand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBQKZ/
And of course the usual IKEA KARLBY countertop & ALEX drawers. The floor lamp is also IKEA: HEKTAR.
You are looking for a cheap HDBaseT with USB extender.
Examples:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21669
https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Extender-Independent-Management/dp/B01GYKVWC4
https://atlona.com/product/at-ome-ex-rx/
Or just use Raspberry Pi 4s as SteamLink boxes if you have the network for it. I say "cheap" because coming from pro AV where just my transmitter costs me more than the pair off Amazon makes it cheap by comparison.
https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Extender-Independent-Management/dp/B01GYKVWC4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542683433&sr=8-6&keywords=4k+kvm
AV Access USB KVM Extender,100m(330ft) 4K 60Hz over Cat5e/6a ,Keyboard+Mouse+HDMI+USB,4 ports USB2.0,RS232,Independent EDID Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYKVWC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nq0QzbJJT995G
I did that in some of the rooms, the other rooms I used simple Ethernet to usb converters on a second line.
Would this not work for what you are trying to do? I use this at home and it works quite well.
How would you vocalise the difference between this and this? Would you say the latter is a hub with the capabilities with a switch?
Edit: The second item calls itself a "Switcher Box Hub" to state the difference.
Thanks!
Yep, using this hub, and just manually switch the monitor over. Next up is another monitor and maybe a vertical docking station for the MacBook Air. Oh. And figure out what to do with the disaster of a cord mess underneath. Lol.
> Does such device exists or I have to buy a 3D printer ?
sounds like you're after a KVM switch, but I'm not sure there's one only for USB and for such number of ports. Edit: they are, but expensive.
4 port: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540208077&sr=8-3&keywords=kvm+switch+usb+hub
2 port: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540208077&sr=8-3&keywords=kvm+switch+usb+hub
3D printer won't do you jack if you don't have the electronic components to put inside a 3d printed case.
Actually they have gotten alot better now. I just tried a usb switcher for mouse and keyboard for my two computers and it works fairly well.
USB switcher
You mean like this
If you don't want to/can't go the software route, I just use one of these kvm switches to share USB devices. I find it easier to work with than software, one button to switch, no constantly running services in the background.
I use a USB Switch Selector with the Main XIM Apex USB hub. I was struggling changing out the USB ports from console to PC and after much research the USB Switch was exactly what I needed to easily switch from Console to PC with the click of a button.
Here it is for anyone interested: USB Switch Selector
Yup.
Actually I eventually got rid of the KVM entirely and just got a powered USB switcher box: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM But that approach relies on you dealing with the video yourself. (In my case, my monitors have multiple inputs.)
I used google to search for what you want and this was the very first link.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
I have no idea if that brand is good, but at least it will give you an idea of the type of device to research.
I bring my laptop to work and hook it up to one of my monitors. I use an hdmi for the laptop and the new monitor inputs for the desktop. Just have to switch the input on the monitor if I need to switch over. I don’t do it often so no big deal. I also use a usb switcher so my one mouse and keyboard work on both computers/monitors. It switches with a push of the button. All the ones that let you push a button and have the one monitor switch between laptop/desktop had people complaining in the reviews. Having to restart the computer each time or some such thing. So I just went with the two cable option for that.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/
I found this cool thing yesterday.
I wish it was a tiny bit faster (takes like 4 seconds to switch, but that might be because one comp is windows 7 and the other is 10) it gets the job done
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=25A8YDRL4YYJF&keywords=usb+switch&qid=1554604835&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+sw&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Went with this so I could share controllers, keyboard and mouse, and I gotta say I'm pretty happy so far.
I use this USB switcher to switch between my iMac and my windows gaming computer. I designed/3D printed a mount and mounted the switcher underneath my desk so its a quick push-of-a-button switch between the two. Could be a convenient upgrade for your nice setup!
For a cheaper solution, use something like this for your usb devices on 2 PCs. https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ugreen+switch+hub&qid=1562308220&s=gateway&sr=8-3
But u still gotta switch monitors separately.
Sure: ugreen usb3 hub
Yeah sorry I realised it wasn’t the easiest to follow when I read it back! Nope nothing special about them but they don’t appear to support Remote wake for USB so I can’t get my setup to wake either laptop by moving the mouse unfortunately which would have been a nice to have and to save from opening the lids of the laptops should either be powered down.
Here is an Amazon UK link to the USB 3.0 UGreen switch, the other is the same but only USB 2.0:
UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out Put USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Box Box for Mouse,Keyboard,Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 1.5m USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Zmj0Bb2MCNZXR
Does your display have multiple inputs? If so you can take advantage of that and switch inputs directly from the display.
As for the USB side of things, try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/
You may need an adapter to go from USB C to the USB A port of that hub/switcher, but I have the USB 2 version of that and it works just fine for switching peripherals between my two computers.
Reposting without referral thing in URL. Apparently I can't be lazy w/ copy and paste around these parts.
The PC and Laptop use HDMI (laptop) and Display Port (PC) and the input set to Auto (only have one on at a time).
As for the keyboard and mouse, I bought this on Amazon.
UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Works great, would recommend.
Sort of. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here's one I've seen someone use, I learned about them from my in-laws, but don't know which one he uses currently.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1
Get a cheap usb switch, like this, you plug one input into host, one input into passed through (physical) guest usb controller, and you have 100% reliable switching between host and guest.
I’m a similar position with software locks and no physical KVM switch.
What I’ve done in the past is leverage my monitor’s multiple inputs to keep both PCs connected. Depending on your monitors, either change the input manually, or they may automatically switch when one PC is off.
For K/M, I’ve picked up a simple USB switch like the one below. Just connect a cheap hub or find a similar USB switch with multiple connections.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TFL2Ab37R90A2
Even if you need display adapters (i.e. DP to HDMI) or new cables to keep both PCs plugged into the monitors, the cost of those and the USB switch will probably be a lot less than a KVM that supports HDMI or DP.
Edit: since both monitors can be operated independently, you can have your work on one screen and play on another. Think of it as the mullet of battlestations - business on one side, party on the other.
This ^
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-DVI-D-Switch-GCS932UB/dp/B076ZDQDN4/
This has worked for me, though it's meant for sharing one monitor among two computers as opposed to switching live video.
https://www.amazon.com/TESmart-HDMI-Ultra-Switch-3840x2160/dp/B078LY741V
Well this setup is basically the same thing as Linus's 2 gamers 1 CPU episode; and while it has some downsides, the upside is that the performance should be really close to bare metal (like within a few fps of a normal rig with the same hardware). Unlike normal VMs (which suffer performance issues), the host OS (linux) and guest OS (windows) aren't sharing resources and are instead splitting up the hardware and taking nearly direct control of the hardware you assign to them.
The downsides are that you're essentially running 2 computers at the same time and they can't share certain resources with eachother (CPU, RAM and hard disks are easy to split up, so you don't need to worry about that). Each OS needs their own GPU (unless you use certain AMD or Quadro GPUs), USB ports, monitor, and keyboard/mouse.
A hypothetical setup:
Then you can either have 1 keyboard/mouse plugged into the motherboard (to control Linux) and another plugged into the PCI USB card (to control Windows), or use the KVM and switch back and forth, or just unplug and plug 1 keyboard/mouse into whatever PC you need to use at that moment.
I think I have standard SUB KVM now because it connects via USB.
I have a rosewell keyboard now which doesn't have any special software really, but it doesn't work if I attach it to KVM's keyboard USB (it has a usb for keyboard and a mouse). If I recall correctly, that's because the Rosewell is a "gaming keyboard" which is not a standard USB protocol and thus doesn't work on that keyboard USB.
I guess if it's really that such a big of a deal I could just get a USB expander and connect to the KVM's only "regular" USB.
You can use something like this. Works fine. Still requires evil Java ... but what doesn't?
Then a power control unit to match...
I'm assuming this PC is not an actual server, so there is no IPMI based IP KVM that's baked in. If it is a server check it out, Dell has DRAC, Supermicro has their own IPMI, etc...
For a standalone IP KVM what I've used a ton of are these:
http://www.amazon.com/1PORT-USB-Remote-KVM-Spider/dp/B000OH5MDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
They're relatively cheap, within your budget. Work well, just upgrade to latest firmware in case it's a unit that's been sitting around. I've never really had any issues with these units and I have purchased these for every datacenter. My guys mostly use them for emergencies if they systems team has some kind of odd-ball device or can't use IPMI for some reason (i.e. they threw the on-board ports into a LAG, didn't wire up a dedicated IPMI port, and IMPI doesn't support LACP on supermicro.)
One of these?
Basically I'm looking for a cheaper solution of this
300+ is too much for what I'm trying to do.
If you can control the edge (Firewalls) of the remote offices, you can do direct management in multiple ways.
For hardware withouth dedicated out-of-band-management - consider purchasing IP KVM like the Lantronix spiders
Paired with IP-based power-control - you can access consoles, boot, power on/off any hardware you want - remotely.
If you get the option, always pay the little extra bit for full enterprise-options like iLO (HP), iDRAC (Dell) etc. I've stopped questioning the value of having that kind of access; Monitoring, management, alerting, troubleshooting... Worth it!
As for desktop-remoting, there are quite a lot of options. My shop uses NAble and they're pushing their "MSP Anywhere" pretty hard.
It looks good, but we've chosen https://www.maxfocus.com/ for desktop inventory/support and its using Teamviewer in the back.
Other options is AnyDesk, LogMeIn, Bomgar etc.etc. - but it really boils down to what your budget and what your management-vision is.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465833952&sr=1-1&keywords=kvm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011
+
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26957-Female-Adapter/dp/B00006HSM2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834108&sr=1-7&keywords=dvi+to+vga
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834146&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hum
=KVM switch with 5 switched USB ports by pressing 1 button that works with DVI monitor output.
The best arduino solution I can come up with will require you to wire up like 30 fets, and will probably not be more elegant than a commercial solution.
Are these two devices in close proximity when you're intending to use them? Why not just use a KVM? Your devices can connect to whatever network you like, only keyboard/mouse/video are shared, and usually toggled via a physical button. You could leave out the video cable and just switch the mouse/keyboard.
If you DO want to use the video, there are options available for most standards, such as VGA, DVI, HDMI. I've not seen one with multiple video cable types on the same switch, but I'm certain some god-awful expensive option is available.
What is a virt and why do I need it?
What is an 'old school VGA slot'?
Also all my drivers are fine they have to be or the tablet stops working.
Do you mean this? Should I buy this to make it work? https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4
Would that make me be able to work on my tablet's screen and then look up and see a second image on the tv? Is that how that works?
What you're looking for is a KVM switch, which lets you switch a keyboard, mouse, and monitor between more than one computer at the touch of a button. If you're looking to do just the keyboard and mouse, this is all you need. If you want the switch to share a monitor as well, you'll have to stick with VGA unless you're willing to shell out a ton of cash.
A peripheral sharing switch is different than a KVM. It's usually a lower-cost device designed to share things like printers and scanners - which are more sensitive to external hubs but less sensitive to disconnects/reconnects.
If you're never going to connect the monitor for switching it doesn't matter what display connection you have - so you can go as cheap as [this](https://www.amazon.ca/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/0 which is similar form factor to your current device. It only has VGA but does have integrated cables.
If you might like to have the extra display for your laptop you can choose something with compatible video - like this DisplayPort model which is significantly more expensive but gives you much more flexibility.
I use one of these and it works fine for me. I switch between my W7 and Debian boxes with it.
Just for additional clarity this is what a KVM is ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z7FCzb9W5KXCD
Any KVM switch recommendations?
Personally thinking this one since it has a remote.
Yes, USB switching needs an active switch, USB 3 even more so. I'm not sure that switching the high speed USB 3 is even possible.
My thoughts about the KVM switch is to use just the USB part and just not connect the monitor part. Just something heap like this cheap KVM
If you really need USB 3, the high speed part, then you are out of luck. If you just want to switch mouse and keyboard and the occasional USB-stick, then this will work.
There are keyboard-video-mouse dongles that allow you to use a laptop as the "head" for a system. Maybe that would be ok?
The following is not an endorsement (just an example): https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ
This is what I use. I know this isn't exactly what you're looking for, but it serves the same purpose. It might work or might not, depending on your situation.
http://www.amazon.com/Console-Portable-Laptop-Crash-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ
For the HDMI-only server, you will likely need an adapter.
It's a lot more expensive but I'd rather have a Crash Cart. With it you can use a laptop as a KVM unit.
(Surface User here) I know they are kinda spendy for what you get, but I have this:
http://amzn.com/B002CLKFTQ
It has saved my ass many times. Not to mention a few spare USB thumbdrives on hand.
So there are dual monitor KVM switches, but they seem unnecessarily expensive. Do the monitors happen to have multiple inputs? Then you could, for example, connect the laptop to the monitors with VGA, and connect the desktop with DVI, then just manually switch inputs on the monitors.
For the kb and mouse, a simple USB switch is cheap and easy.
Then the HDMI to the TV is another wrinkle...
You want what’s called a kvm switch. we use them in the military all the time. They work good. I didn’t have the time to find hdmi ones but I’m sure you can get them.
Not cheap but it'll do the trick if you have the right connections: StarTech.com 2 Port DVI VGA Dual Monitor KVM Switch
IOGear has one that's a few dolars less but it's vga only.
If I understand correctly you have a desktop and a laptop dock and you want to easily switch between those.
I believe what you're looking for is called a KVM switch, though I don't know whether they come with all the connections you want.
EDIT: I think I found one which might work for you, not cheap though:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425243277&sr=1-1&keywords=dual+monitor+kvm+switch
Something like this sort of leads me to believe I could have one mdp from each pc into the switch, then out to two monitors (via the dp's)?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002S96MRQ?psc=1
edit: or would this ("option 2") be what I would need, as we have previously discussed (from my understanding):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N3BU6E?psc=1
edit 2: This appears to be a "combo"? Although, connecting pcs via usb 3.0 would be a slower data/video transfer rate than actual video cables, or??
https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Laptop-docking-stations/two-laptop-docking-station~USB3DDOCKFT
Dual Monitor option: https://www.amazon.com/Port-Dual-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=dual+monitor+kvm&qid=1562354195&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Anybody have any experience with startech twin monitor KVMs in gaming situations? I want to use my mac and my PC on the same monitors but I'm worried about input lag, something like this
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Switch-Audio-SV231DD2DUA/dp/B003N3BU6E/
You could just connect both computers to all 4 monitors, then just select the input from the monitors.
Or with a KVM you can get a quad display box and connect the top two monitors to channel 1 on two ports, and the bottom two monitors on the same channel on the other two ports. Then on channel 2, do the same but the bottom two monitors on the first two ports, with the top two monitors on the second two ports. Then connect one PC to the first two outputs and the second PC to the second two, that way when you switch between channels it simply flips the two PCs between the 4 displays.
Or if you don't want to spend $1,600, you can get two dual display port KVMs and do almost the same thing, but you'd have one KVM for the top two displays and one for the bottom two.
You'd be looking for something along the lines of this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SV231DPDDUA-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B003N3BU6E?th=1
I haven't used it personally, but it should be fine. I use a regular single monitor KVM. My second monitor I just change inputs manually from the monitor itself. If you ever plan to use it with a 4k monitor or an ultrawide with higher refresh rates, you might want to consider a displayport 1.2 version. Keep in mind though, that a product like that is extremely niche, and will be priced accordingly.
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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> Anybody have any experience with startech twin monitor KVMs in gaming situations? I want to use my mac and my PC on the same monitors but I'm worried about input lag, something like this
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Switch-Audio-SV231DD2DUA/dp/B003N3BU6E/
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk2y5sx
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> Is the X3450 and a Lenovo OEM motherboard a good idea? I just want it to be compatible and overclockable to >3.2 Ghz without much hassle. Other options are quite similar like the regular green Intel boards.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk32sqo
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> Is there any type of service where I could send in my side panel to have a window installed?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk38u19
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> Any help you guys can offer? A friend of mine /u/d0nt_care_anymore is trying to do a clean install of windows to his newly bought M.2 that he's adding to his already built rig.
>
> He's doing a clean install, drive appears to housed correctly as is visible in windows installer. Other primary drive is disconnected whilst installing. Mb is z97i-plus. M.2 is a Samsung 960 evo 250gb. He can't seem to get the M.2 to be picked up in the bios and windows installer won't allow the install.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk39pqe
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> Best gaming mouse for large hands?
> I'm 6'5" and an all around big guy. I used to have a Logitech G500 which, after 10 years, left this world far too soon (RIP) and it fit pretty well, but wasn't perfect. Once it died, I replaced it with a G502 and the fit doesn't seem as nice. In particular my pinky and ring finger are always fighting with each other while using it.
>
> I'd prefer something with similar features like quick DPI adjust buttons, at least 3 assignable thumb buttons, wired (but will go wireless if I have to).
>
> I'm thinking about biting the bullet and getting another 500, but they're like $120 now on Amazon, which is $60 more than I paid for it 10 years ago. Any recommendations are appreciated.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3aeer
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> Should I get the sennheiser 598s or the gsp 300s? I want to be able to use them for both my Xbox and pc, and I'd have to get a mic for the 598s.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3dqqm
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> when i plug a usb stick into my laptop it reboot loops, please help i need to install w10
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3ed0u
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> My PC keeps booting immediately into the bios screen after I went in and selected "optimize defaults". How do I get it to boot straight back up into windows?
> Using a Gigabyte mobo
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3l00q
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> Want to get a separate microphone, as an upgrade to the one I'm currently using (It was borrowed indefinitely from a Wii game). Is This a decent choice?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3ms4w
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> Why can I keep using Windows oem codes? I got like 4 computers with codes on them, and when I build other computers I have used those, just to see if they work, used the same one for my main computer and my brothers and they both work fine, I'm not complaining about it, I'm just confused as to what's going on
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3qhc0
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> I'm changing my case. Currently running on crappy Thermatake V3 black. And I'm not quite sure what my new case will be.
>
> Anyway here's my current build.
>
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel - Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $169.88 @ OutletPC
> Motherboard | MSI - H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $42.38 @ OutletPC
> Memory | Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $63.68 @ OutletPC
> Storage | SanDisk - Z400s 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $83.01 @ Amazon
> Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Black 1.5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $128.01 @ Amazon
> Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.98 @ Newegg
> Optical Drive | LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $45.88 @ OutletPC
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> External Storage | Western Digital - Elements 1.5TB External Hard Drive | $85.00 @ Amazon
> External Storage | Toshiba - Canvio Basics 1TB External Hard Drive | $54.89 @ OutletPC
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $738.58
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $723.58
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 22:43 EDT-0400 |
>
>
> I'm weighting my thought between Fractal Design Focus G mini, Cooler Master Mastercase 3 And NZXT S340 Elite
>
> A notice is that I live in Thailand. My mobo is mATX and it doesn't have 3.0 usb header. Lastly, my budget really can't go beyond 100 USD.
>
> Any help would be appreciate :)
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3qir4
----
> Is Rainbow Six Siege region locked if I buy it in China and will I be able to play it in the US? Steam does not say that it is locked on the store page (image) but I don't know what are the Uplay policies. Can someone please clarify this for me?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3r13m
----
> I'm thinking about buying a Dell XPS 15 9550, but there are really conflicting reviews on it. Does anyone know if it's just the bad reviews being more spotlighted, and in actuality it's a safe laptop to buy?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3uzt4
----
> Hi guys, r7 1700, B350 Tomahawk, MSI Gaming X RX480 here. I noticed that my Samsung pm951 sad, placed under the GPU, floats around 48-50° C when during normal workload, and jumps to 60-65°C under heavy tasks like gaming.
> Do you suggest me buying a Pcie slot m.2 adapter and move away the SSD?
> I have two intake fan on the front, and one as rear exhaust. I'll try play a bit with the fan curve to see if I can improve the situation.
> Case is a Fractal Design Define C, if it matters.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk415hz
----
> Not PCMR related but this is the only place that I can get a fast answer to my question. Please don't downvote.
>
> Is there a way to transfer "Dial-Up Broadband Network" internet from PC to LG G4 Android 6.0 phone without rooting? (Apparently through USB cable)
>
> If it is only possible with rooting, then is the probability of "bricking" your phone when rooting or unrooting high?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk449f0
----
User | Points
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thatgermanperson | 155
motionglitch | 155
saldytuwas | 118
rehpotsirhc123 | 97
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thecolonelofk | 90
glowinghamster45 | 73
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You can get a standalone for what you want. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y. Same with audio
​
But they do make all in one solutions that you may like: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E
​
I've had great luck with this dual monitor KVM switch.
Computer 1 is my home computer
Computer 2 is my work laptop in a docking station
I did have to upgrade my video card, but it's all Display port inputs and the switching is flawless
https://www.amazon.de/StarTech-com-Port-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=kvm+switch+displayport+2+port&qid=1554886432&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
something like that right? So I will need 6 Displayport cables in total right?
I've seen some comments about TeamViewer, VNC and similar services--TV is less than ideal, unless they've fixed their security holes.
One thing you may like, though I'm not sure on the setup required, is Apache Guacamole, which is kind of like RDP/VNC, but in an HTML5 enabled web browser. There's a lot of benefits to something like that, but it may not be what you're looking for.
I'd you decide you would rather do something with VNC, I'd recommend TightVNC for a free option--if nothing else, you can use this as a platform to determine if VNC is doable for you. We actually use this at work to access some non-rdp-enabled virtual machines at work...and, more recently, had used this to remote into a friends's "server" up in Canada.
There was some other service you could get before, though I can remember what it is offhand--but it was basically a cross-platform, virtual KVM. Synology? Maybe.
For a full hardware solution, take a look at KVMs, as that might give you something closer to what you're looking for--though, still not ideal.
Finally, you could always upgrade to W10 Pro on the desktop, and just use RDP.
Used laptop/tablet/phone + mobile data. Don't risk your job to find out ACO isn't released yet. If you can't swing that bootable USB will work in a pinch as long as you can unplug the main HDD and the network cable (at least I would). If you only got a tower computer just get an HDMI switch (and probably video card) and flip-flop between them with a KVM assuming your work place has older HDMI out systems. Ensure its not display port!
so just a simple hdmi kvm will do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523929357&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+kvm
I found this on amazon, it may work for you. http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Cable-Switch-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU
What you would be looking for is a KVM switch. Here's one that looks like it would work for you.
Yes. An HDMI KVM should do the job, plugged into the Thinkpad dock.
Here's a fairly cheap one: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU
But, if you want >1080P, support, >60Hz support, or USB 3.0 support, you're looking at $150+.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xczMBbZBD64XM
So I've just looked up that and I think it'd work for what I want. What are your thoughts?
Then you will want to find an HDMI equipped KVM Switch, this one seems to do what you want.
You're looking for a KVM kinda like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU
Normally All In One PCs (as long as you don't mean iMacs) have a Client or ThinClient on the back of the monitor which is connected via a normal DVI/HDMI cable
Can't you just connect to another port and switch between them via the "Source" button on the screen?
Otherwise you are going to need one of these http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Cable-Switch-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368799654&sr=8-1&keywords=kvm+switch+hdmi
I think you would most likely need two independent hubs, one for the HDMI/Displayport and one for the USB connection, devices such as this https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
I think there does exist some devices which switch both HDMi and USB but are expensive, like
KVM switches are a thing, but you are looking more for a USB switch. Pair it up with hubs if necessary.
Here is one example:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Edit: The link is A/B, but you want one that is A/A
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY
Search for "switching USB hub."
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Yeah, only instead of PS/2 ports and VGA, just for USB.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
But guaranteed to work with wireless dongles for keyboard/mouse combos.
Two ways(untested).
One way would be to connect dumb device to a smart phone that can act as USB storage. Enable Wifi file server android app and point to the folder where dumb device dumps to. Then write an rsync script. If dumb device don't see smartphone, read on.
This is another way but you're getting your hands dirty.
Get either one of these or something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
If you have a hub laying around test it with dumb device.
It's an A/B switch for a hub. You can either push the button yourself or get an arduino(the arduino alone could be config'd to A/B*) and mod it so it pushes that button on a script that runs every x minutes.
Script idea: x=10 1. 10 minutes up yet? 2. get USB from AB to linux. 3. sync data somewhere. 4. send USB back for 10 minutes. 5. goto 1
Hey, so I think this is what I'm going to go for. What KM Switch are you using?
One curiosity I have is that most of what I've found seem to have just one USB outport.. how do I plug both my mouse and keyboard into it?
ie
https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475014628&sr=8-4&keywords=km+switch
Something like this might be what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Perhaps simply using a USB 2.0 switch with the appropriate USB-to-USB-C cables would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Can someone help me find a USB switch that takes two inputs and has two ouputs? I want to share my Keyboard & Mouse between two computers I have at my desk. I only will ever need to use 1 computer at a time so I don't want to use a solution like Synergy and I would prefer a physical switch. This product is almost exactly what I need but it only takes 1 input. I want to plug both the keyboard & mouse into it (and not have to buy another combiner).
So the flow would go:
[Keyboard] -> [Switch]
[Mouse] -> [Switch]
--
[Switch] -> [Comp 1]
[Switch] -> [Comp 2]
This might help
As /u/Astec123 said, you can use a KVM switch.
If you really just want to share a mouse and not a keyboard / monitor as well, you can also use a USB A/B Switch.
Another option is Synergy, software that you install on both computers that just shares the mouse and keyboard between them. I have used a previously available free version across 8 workstations driving 32 LCDs and it worked perfectly.
Or these
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Fair observation that I noticed as well, but this should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
I wonder if this would work... it's a good question for sure
I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Sometimes when you use the switch on the pluggable device, you have to un-plug and re-plug into the chromebook.
I've been using this for a while with a Logitech universal wireless keyboard and mouse. Works great!
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458699539&sr=8-1&keywords=plugable+usb+switch
yeah, i just googled USB a/b switch https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
this might work. If not then you will be out of luck.
Yeah you can get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Just plug your mouse into it and you push a button and it'll swap between the PC's.
If you already own the wheel, you could try picking up one of these or something similar. The support page for the G29 says you need to set the switch before plugging it in, but if it's an actual physical switch (and what they show looks like one) then just powering the thing off, switching and then powering it back on ought to do it. But YMMV, I'm not liable for any powered USB damages or user error, I haven't tried it myself, and with the apparent cost of those things I'm not sure I would.
You could just get a dirt cheap USB switcher. $50 for a mouse to do what software or a $15 dongle can do is a bit absurd, I agree.
Quick bit of googling gives this item. You cant connect two devices at once, as USB is two-way communication, between a host and a peripheral. A peripheral can not have multiple hosts. Any switch that toggles for multiple hosts should work fine though.
After a bit more searching, it seems like something like this is what I need:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Ah. Well something like this would probably work for you. Just don't plug in a 2nd computer and it's pretty much just a switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
Unfortunately, all the ones are designed to switch 1 connected device between two computers, which could work.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
https://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Hub-Splitter/dp/B00A81ISJ6
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
Ok, so you'd plug the USB splitter into a USB port on your computer, Then you'd run the USB 2.0 B cable into one of the USB B ports on the switcher.
Then you'd remove the adapter from the ifi, plug it into the other usb B port on the switcher, and then plug the dac into the usb A port on the other side.
The "two computers" would be the line with the ifi, and the line without.
This seems dumb. The webcam still has a microphone that could be tapped into.
If you are really paranoid you should use something like https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI and just have the second switch not hook up to a computer (therefore basically acting like a USB on/off switch). I guess that is unless he is using a laptop or desktop with the integrated cam, in which case I think if they have activated your webcam that's the least concerning thing that they could do damage with.
You can also use an usb device like this that allows you to switch which pc is connected to the keyboard and mouse.
I use this thing to share the usb receiver for my Logitech touchpad/keyboard and mouse between my Pi and my PC for when I'm tinkering with the Pi. Works great, but there's not much reason to keep your Pi right where your PC is, is there?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425241038&sr=8-1&pi=SL75&keywords=Usb+switch
I switch back and forth between my laptop and desktop both connected to DisplayPort with this: SIIG CE-KV0411-S1 2-Port DisplayPort KVM Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5v6CybX552MB2
Allows me to share USB devices such as keyboard and mouse. Works well for me. Hope it helps.
Probably this one.
https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-CE-KV0411-S1-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B007ZT1GQ6
Have you considered a good ole kvm switch and a larger single monitor?
The one I used with my old SP3 dock (and some adapters) + desktop:
SIIG CE-KV0411-S1 2-Port DisplayPort KVM Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bdB7yb6PFJX9Q
No idea of the quality, but Siig CE-KV0411-S1 is a 2-port DisplayPort KVM switch for around $65.
I believe all you need is one that takes displayport and you should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-CE-KV0411-S1-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B007ZT1GQ6
This
or this
or this
please note i have never used any of these particular switches so please read the reviews before buying any of them.
I have this usb hub plugged into my surface dock. The hub's completely full and I don't have any problems.
If your going to want to to switch the hub between the surface dock and another laptop, you'll either just need to unplug the usb from the dock and put it into the generic laptop when you use it, or you can use a usb switch. Just have one end of it just a usb for your generic laptop, and the other into the surface dock, and you can press the button to switch. Depending on the number of shared (shared as in easily switching back and forth. not using at the same time) peripherals you want to use, you could just get a switch with multiple usb ports
Not exactly what I'm looking for but may work. However based off that I found this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers-y/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=pd_sim_147_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ZJH%2B8lxDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=SKAK96B65DTJKGK4FNFD
Which I think may work.
For some context I plan on plugging a xbox one controller in to 2 source and changing them easily.
Is it possible? Yes. For USB 2.0, it definitly exists.
For USB 3, the best I've found only has two inputs. A combined solution, i.e. this in combination with an ordinary USB hub, may work.
Maybe a USB switch like this?
I use this Switch to share my keyboard between 2 computers at my desk:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I also have a usb hub attached to it to share my mouse and RGB mousepad.
Try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y
or search for USB switch 1 in 2 out I found that searching quickly
Or this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01CU4QCRS&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=A768H9MNGCEWBXPF7GS3&pd_rd_wg=OTW0p&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=uhSeT&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=21567a94-d2d6-11e8-8f79-f579368dfe4e
It say in/out but i suppose as its data that is irrelevant it should go both ways plus the Ugreen one is a better brand.
You can use a switch like this.
For swapping out your mouse and keyboard you could get a couple of these, or just one with a (powered USB hub. USB 3.0 Switch
There is a noticeable delay (in Windows at least) of around 7 seconds to switch the devices over since your OS will have to recognize the devices again.
If you want to add your monitor into the mix then there is something for that as well but it'd be easier to just utilize more monitors and not worry about that.
I use this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which switches my keyboard between the iMac and windows PC. I tried a two port USB hub but it does not work. I think it needs to be a powered hub to add both a keyboard and mouse.
Sure!
Here's the Amazon Link to the Pluggable Technologies USB3-Switch2
I thought about Synergy, but I chose to go with a cheap hardware solution instead. I have my mouse and keyboard hooked up to a USB hub which is in turned hooked up to this USB switch. This switch is connected to my host via the USB ports on the back of the motherboard and the guest through a USB controller card that I passed through. It works extremely well. The only downside for me is that it takes a couple seconds for the mouse and keyboard to initialize every time I switch it.
You can certainly spend a lot on a displayport KVM switch, or, use a USB switch for your peripherals (plugged into a USB Hub) ala
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and then use this on your MBP for video: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's HDMI vs Displayport, but with https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EFQWP0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 then I can also hook up my Xbox to the monitor.
Not amazingly cheap, but about a third of the price of displayport switch linked by mygocarp.
Source: am doing just that.
My nintendo switch is connected through a USB extension, no problems, the switch charges during play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LWBYDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a grip on my NIntendo Switch, Very Comfortable and fits well on my stand
Grip:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WGT97X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stand:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZAYH58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ethernet Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYTSN18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI Adapter, So I can switch between my PC Monitor or my 55 inch TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Switch, Used to switch my keyboard between my PC and Nintendo Switch.
I can now easily chat during online multiplayer or switch back to PC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If your monitor is 4K this might not be ideal bc it only supports 4K at 6 HZ. Plug kb, mouse and monitor into box, plug box into USB and display ports on Mac and PC. Press the button to switch which computer is using the kb, mouse, and monitor.
Edit. Here’s the link...[](StarTech.com 2-port DisplayPort KVM Switch with Built-in USB 2.0 Hub - Supports 4K Video Resolution at 30Hz - Ultra HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVH9PRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wluaAbMP7G3QX)
Sounds like you're looking for a KVM switch: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch
Model and type will depend on your setup/connectors. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-port-DisplayPort-Switch-Built/dp/B00UVH9PRQ
AFAIK these are the ones I used at my last job, and they were bomb - most reliable ones I ever used - work without the monitor being plugged in if I recall correctly. I believe they get power from just a single USB being plugged into them - but I never used them as a KB/M switch, always as a KVM, but they worked nicely even with one PC. Scroll lock scroll lock was the toggle, and it worked quite quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-port-DisplayPort-Switch-Built/dp/B00UVH9PRQ
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UVH9PRQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is one of the few options you have.
Honestly, I didn't even check. Didn't think anyone still had 1.1 one stuff on the market. That is surprising...
No those would not work then. Good catch.
After looking around more it seems most are 1.1... That seems strange.
I did find this one that will do DP1.2 but you will have to get mini-DP/DP cables for it: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch-SV231MDPU2/dp/B00ZR18VPS
Manufacturers website: http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/KVM-Switches/mini-displayport-kvm-switch-2-port~SV231MDPU2
This was probably the best one I tried. It worked for 1440p@144Hz and also does USB switching. Little expensive, but everything cheaper seemed to only support old DP standards.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR18VPS
No problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZR18VPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Purchased Dec 2017. Thought I had it a bit longer than that but I guess not!
Yep, is more expensive up front but allows higher end monitors when you upgrade. Something like this looks sensible https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR18VPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506559387&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=displayport+kvm+60hz&dpPl=1&dpID=31IWMo%2BrJIL&ref=plSrch
Yes I do this at the moment. Got my a50s connected to pc, Xbox and PS4.
Get a usb switch and tos link switch. They are about £30 each for decent ones.
UGREEN USB Switch, 2 Port Scanner... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CU4QCRS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
PORTTA APET0301T 3 Port 3x1... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KDZEWWO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You can maybe try a usb switcher and plug both computers + the dac into it? I found this one on amazon but haven't personally tried it, hope this helps
You're welcome. If you want both chat and game features, just tried this out and confirmed it works, get a USB 2 port switch like this one: UGREEN USB Sharing Switch USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Adapter Box 2 Computer Share 1 USB Device Hub for Printer Scanner with 2 Pack USB 2.0 Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fAQHDbCATR1PR
Then just plug a USB cable to both PC and PS4. When you want to switch between just hit the switch and switch on your dock.
If you look at those switches just make sure you look through reviews, you want a switch that doesn't feed power back through the unswitched device as that can fry things. Since the A50s work on both USB 2 and 3 either will work for you.
Go with something cheaper like this unless you need the 4 USB ports.
UGREEN USB Sharing Switch USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Adapter Box 2 Computer Share 1 USB Device Hub for Printer Scanner with 2 Pack USB 2.0 Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wnK3DbESBM5R2
I have a crappy-ish laptop for messing around on the web. It sits below my main monitor, so like dual screens, only dual computers. and one of these switches and a small hub so I hit a button and my mouse and keyboard can control it (if reaching for the keyboard isn't practical).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU4QCRS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
here is the one I use. It’s one of the only ones that supports DP 1.2
Here is the one that I found, and it has been reviewed and works and is awesome.
Its DP1.2 so it will pass GSync. I use this to go between my work laptop and my Gsync Monior/gaming station.
I had this exact same requirement and its tits.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F1BSKFY/?coliid=I2BPFGLL0I20V1&colid=3TWEMF99S88RZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
A KVM switch is the only option that I know of. It would be a matter of finding one that supports the correct outputs, a KVM switch such as This one should work
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-DisplayPort-Peripheral-B004-DP2UA2-K/dp/B01F1BSKFY
I'm currently using this KVM with an Acer 4k@60Hz w/ gsync and it works flawlessly. Haven't yet tried it on my 1440p@165Hz monitor and I haven't used the USB functions of the kvm at all. I just use it for connecting both the host and the vm to the only good connector on gsync monitors and use qemu/kvm to do the rest of the switching.
It seems most of the bad reviews are people who don't realize you can't fake a DP connection to keep monitors "connected" after switching and that you can turn off mouse-emulation to support extra mouse buttons. I believe it supports powered USB hubs as well.
Had it about a month, can reccomend
Thanks. That was my concern re: KVMs, and I really didn't want to get something so bulky if I could avoid it.
I'm going to give this one a go since it seems to have some positive success reviews for my use case, and it is much smaller and cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F1BSKFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If that doesn't work well, then I may have to look at Level1.
3)This is what I went with, you can still stream games if you're low on hard drive space, Netflix is finally bringing 4k to PC w/ Kaby lake and you can customize and configure your PC any way you want.
Here's one. Looks like the lowest price for 4k 60hz. I'd start here and work my way up if it doesn't work or if quality isn't up to your standard. Make sure you don't buy anything that's not returnable. YMMV.
AV Access HDMI USB KVM Extender(HDBaseT),Uncompressed 4K 60Hz over Cat5e/6a with Zero Latency ,High speed 4 ports USB2.0, RS232 & Independent EDID,HDR & Dobly Vision,Dolby Atmos & DTS:X https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYKVWC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iqlJAbMKRDDB0
I’ve been using this guy on a system I designed for graphics and it’s been great. Granted, it’s hard wired into a rack and doesn’t get set-up and taken down, but I have zero complaints despite the low price point.
Well, I would like USB3.0 but that’s tough to come by without dropping more cash.
BlackBox also makes some awesome stuff, but their price point is significantly higher.
What do you think about something like this? Is this considered a balun? It seems to check off most of my requirements and its nice that the hdmi/keyboard/mouse/other usb would all go along a single cat6 cord.
I do the same thing, this works great for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GYKVWC4/
Although, turns out it doesn't have enough bandwidth to run the vive's HDMI connection and usb connection at the same time. You can probably go with a cheaper one that only has HDMI. This requires a direct point to point connection through an ethernet cable, this is not something that can go through your router or a switch.
For the USB connection I run this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040IG1A6
I don't notice any additional latency at all, it has been working flawlessly.
Hey I did this same thing with an Xbox One X. I have it way down in the basement closet, connected to a TV two floors away. You really need 2 things. And you need 2 runs of ethernet (CAT6).
First, an HDBASET Transmitter and Receiver. Its just HDMI running over ethernet. The entry level Monoprice RX/TX kits have been running perfect for me for about 5 years now. If you scour eBay, you can find cheap Atlona kits. Those are solid. 1080p. If you want 4k, you might have to dig deeper.
The second thing you want is to run USB over ethernet. This will let you run your controller WIRED. You don't have to worry about signal or distance. It's just a straight up USB controller at this point. AV Access has a kit - same idea as the HDBaseT. It's cheap too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV33R8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now, if you can find an HDBASET kit that combines the HDMI and the USB, that's the killer product right there. *Edit* - Damn I missed the obvious. Same Amazon listing with the USB extender, here's your combo product:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GYKVWC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
For $220, that's a steal for what that AV Access kit does.
I use a stream deck and a $22 USB switcher for KB and Mouse
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519310051&sr=8-3&keywords=kvm+switch
ahhhh I understand totally. Makes complete sense now. Ever think about using something like this to switch from controlling one or the other computer. Would allow you to use both computers independently with the same keyboard and mouse.
Get a USB switch.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
Look at USB Switches, like this one. Press the button to change between your PC and console
Look up USB sharing hubs. You can switch your KB/M with that and then just change the input on your monitor. It's what I do and it works great.
Edit for link: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM
UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fzvFDbBQ43CMR
KVM Switch is easy to use - or if you have a monitor that can switch inputs you should be able to get by with just a USB switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+switch&qid=1550597074&s=gateway&sr=8-3
UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LetxCb5PMB74X
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543525062&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+ab+switch&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1550043677&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ugreen
Turning off the light did nothing for me, I ended up getting this UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This made it soooo easy to switch back and forth btw my pc and ps4 highly recommend. I got a diagram of you want too
Something like this to switch which device the mic is “attached” to.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536791151&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+switch
Something like this would work for two PCs, and would probably work for what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_XrHRDbEM3NDSR
If not... Just look for "USB switch"
Sounds like you want something like this, which lets you switch a USB hub between two host computers. Or something like this, which appears to be identical but USB3.
Probably something like This
A USB hub that connects to two PCs, with a toggle button to switch which computer it feeds data to.
Correct. What you're looking for would be an USB switch, such as this, or this. If the switches you can find don't have enough ports for your needs, you can plug a hub into the switch. Due to the way USB works, you can't just have a passive Y-cable, and need an active switching device.
Or just using a USB switcher is fine too if hw solution is preferred. Something like this is pretty inexpensive.
UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cEXDbRJHKMZB
Something like this. That's the switch I use, with double side tape on the back of my monitor arm so it's easy to access the button without being visible.
No problem.
Yeah, that would work. I've mocked up a (very) rudimentary design of the solution for you:
https://imgur.com/gallery/SsLMTsi
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Imgur cut off my text but the color code is:
Black = Product
Blue = Connection
Pink = Item To Buy (see below)
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Products (including suggestions):
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With this, your mac will be one cable connected to it for both charging and connecting to the monitor as the charger connects to the type c dock :-)
Thank you for the sub!, didn't expect that. I hope to make some enjoyable content for you and spark some ideas! - speaking of my first video with the webcam kill switch includes how to mount the switch to the underside of the desk (which would be perfect for the USB hub - item 1. Will be super discrete and clean)
PS - if you get this setup - post a pic here for me? :-)
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As for keyboard, i have always liked mechanical. Aukey do one that's pretty unoffensive looking:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghosting-Resistant/dp/B06XKV8R9Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574117032&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-11
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The Logitech G203 is on sale at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gaming+mouse&qid=1574117290&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-5
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But so subjective - I have a corsair K70 Mk2 Low Profile with a Mionix Naos (will take a lot to make me change!)
For USB peripherals (mouse/keyboard) you can use UGreen USB switch (amazon link) - it works very well. I got mine from AliExpress and using it from beggining of the year. There is option to power it externally if you will plan to connect anything high-power (mouse/usb is totally fine to be powered from one USB).
For HDMI.. I didnt find any solution - so I'm using monitors with multiple HDMI inputs and switch them. If you are not going to switch between sources every 5 seconds it will be good enough. (it is for me)
Most of the better quality DP KVM I am seeing out there are north of $300.
Have you thought about just trying a USB switch and a second port on the monitor for the laptop?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MXXQKGM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I use this to switch my keyboard and mouse. I use the multiple inputs on my monitor to switch that around.
I use one of these to switch wired keyboard-mouse inputs between a Chromebox and a PC. Which works very well.
I expect it will work okay over Bluetooth, but only if one computer is turned on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That one apparently works fine.
So I replaced my KVM with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And everything's hunky dory now. Just wanted to update the thread for future MK users who run into KVM issues.
gpt this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OK - so since I use two computers here, I plug my KB, Mouse, microphone, and a USB 2.0 Hub into this USB Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/
I mounted that on the back of the monitor with some double-sided 3M thing.
I have my MacBook charger plugged into a power outlet, and that goes into a Satechi USB C Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=psdc_281413_t3_B07B87BN1M
HDMI from my monitor goes into the USB C Hub for the Mac, and DisplayPort goes into the PC.
The USB Switcher's output goes into my PC and the Satechi USB C Hub for the Mac. I also use a 1.0 ft CableCreations extension cable to extend the USB-C hub's cable and make the connection stronger as the hub's cable is very loose.
With one button, I can switch computers.
Here's what my cable management looks like with the majority of cables being mounted on the back of the monitor.
https://imgur.com/a/6IvJ1TJ
Buy a USB switch and press 2 buttons when you switch, it’s what I do and it makes it easier to switch when I’m PBP mode. Dirt cheap too:
UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out Put USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Box for Mouse,Keyboard,Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 1.5m USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kFGmDbFV5FWYA
Replying to you directly in case you've abandoned the thread
Depending the performance you're looking for, what about something like this:
Basically, using an external USB graphics adapter attached to 2 monitors, then switching the USB adapter between the 2 machines.
I’m using this to split peripherals between my Mac and PC.
As for the displays, I just swap between HDMI 1 and 2. I plug one HDMI to USB C into the Mac directly, and I have this dongle to plug my power, second display and USB splitter into.
It’s not an elegant solution, but it’s $300+ to get s decent KVM switch. And the last one I tried didn’t work with the Macbook.
The dongle is kind of shit. The power chime tends to go off every 5 min or so while MacBook is sleeping when powered through this dongle.
Personally I have a USB switch and two monitor cables in my monitor. Whenever I have to work, I simply press the button of the switch and change the monitor input from the monitor menu.
For me this works quite well. I just have to plug four plugs into the laptop, and switching between the systems is a matter of ~4 button clicks.
(You could also look into using VNC, if that would suit you better. For example RealVNC, to control your laptop from your desktop PC.)
Link to the USB switch: https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher-One-Button/dp/B01N6GD9JO
I have the exact same setup at home!
I tried sharing the kb and mouse for a while, but in my stubbornness to not buy a USB switch to do that properly I ended up instead with a somewhat low-tech solution of putting my dock right against the front of the desk so that I just use my trackpoint + thinkpad keyboard when it is docked. When I want to use my desktop the kb tucked away in the back swaps places with the ultra dock / thinkpad.
If I wanted to do this more properly, I think I could achieve it by buying a USB switch like this one and keeping the dock permanently in the back. What I like about my current setup is that I can continue to use the Thinkpad's screen while it is docked for a terminal screen right above the kb, while the main screens are used for productivity.
As for how I switch the monitors, I have a pretty low-tech solution: suspend/sleep the computer I'm not using and let the monitors automatically resolve the active input port.
A slightly less janky set up is to have a USB 3 switch (which you can use with an ethernet to USB 3 adapter) combined with a KVM switch. That would give you everything but charging. Example of USB switch: https://www.amazon.com.au/UGREEN-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher-One-Button/dp/B01N6GD9JO
I use this to switch all is devices between Laptop and Desktop and the nornal Display integrated input switcher for the display signal. Additional wires for the specific devices, such as Ethernet are plugged into their own docks for the laptop.
Thanks for the reply! No, I don't really have a need to display both laptops at the same time though I think this monitor does have some feature to do that. I was doing a little more digging and found someone on YouTube with this in his setup-- is it what I need?
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pyBZDbNH7ZBCX
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/
I only have one more laptop for work, but had the same problem otherwise. I have been looking around, but could not find a KVM or streaming solution that could cope with the 3440x1440 resolution and refresh rate (they all top out at 4k 30Hz) and wouldn't stress my poor Lenovo work laptop (copious amounts of corporate bloatware) to the point that everything was just slow and unstable. Instead, I now have my Desktop plugged into the Display Port and my Laptop into HDMI, each with their dedicated USB 3 cable to the Hub.
That means I need to connect/disconnect only 2 cables when and if I move the laptop, and otherwise it's only two buttons to switch both display and USB inputs for up to 4 USB devices (mainly my mouse and keyboard). This was the best compromise for me that doesn't sacrifice on input lag or display quality.
I use the new Sony GOLD Wireless Headset, which is made for the PS4 for sure (with 7.1 spatialization) but it works perfectly wirelessly as well with the USB dongle (included with the headset) on the Shield... and even on pc/mac, smartphone and Switch if you have a USB-to USB C adapter, which is pretty cool !
I don't know if the Shield could work with 2 Sony Gold headsets. (1 dongle 2 headsets ? But i guess 2 dongles and 2 headsets should work, after all they are 2 USB ports on the Shield. )
Concerning your question "Will the Shield transform the DTS audio into PCM?" Yes it's not a problem, the Shield "adapts" the sound with the codecs your headphones can decode. I use Kodi with 4K DTS/AAC/PCM videos without a problem. The only codec problem i've got is with 4K shows on Netflix (can't launch the show with my headphones plugged) and HBO app is not supported as well :/
Also, i bought a usb switch. I plugged the headset USB dongle on one end and connect my PS4, my Shield TV and my Switch on the other end, you have to tap on a button to switch between devices though https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=UGREEN+USB+Switch&qid=1556409282&s=gateway&sr=8-3
So when i want to listen my shield TV with my headset, i simply press the button swapping. I don't find any seemless USB switch though.
TL:DR 2 Sony Gold Wireless Headset + One USB switch with 2 commutators should do the trick most of the time and you still can have your soundbar or any other added sound systems.
I picked one up on prime day with 4 usb 3.0 inputs for $24 and change. Not discredting OP, just another option with more ports.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GD9JO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Windows desktop and MacBook that share a monitor using an [HDMI switcher] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01EFQWP0C/) and a keyboard and mouse using a [USB 3.0 switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01N6GD9JO/).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GD9JO
Nope, not at all. Everything works exactly the same as if it were connected directly.
This is the specific switch I'm using: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N6GD9JO - there is a cheaper USB 2.0 version as well.
EDIT: Forgot to specify, this is not actually a true KVM switch as it doesn't do video, just USB. For me, that's all I needed, as my monitor auto-switches inputs.
Would a USB switch work?
So I was playing around a little and leaving it unplugged till after the computer has booted and only plugging it in when needed has definitely fixed the issues I was having, now going back to no password and fast start up with no errors.
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I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+3.0+switch&qid=1566361532&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Thinking about using it, leaing just one of the type B ports unpopulated, and then just hitting the button to switch from the unpopulated port to the one that is connected to the computer should in theory act like plugging it in with out the wear and tear on the ports or having to reach around the back of the computer.
My assumption is that a device like this should add any lag, since it is just switching the input from one output to the other (not duplicating it or acting like a hub/splitting bandwidth), any thoughts?
As the titles say, the first is a hub with individual power toggles and the second is a switched (switcher) hub. Both are hubs, not switches. This would be a switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zZ4hDbBDEJA3E
To further simplify a hub is 1:X or X:1 with x being the number of inputs
A switch is 1:1 with ability to swap outputs
The combination is called a switched hub.
Sorry, been a busy day, but yeah. I want to keep the same cable plugged in to the external port that is on my backpack and simply switch the source of the power going to that port depending on whether I have access to an outlet or not. This thing seems to do what I'm asking, I just hope it can pass enough current to charge a phone, since it seems to be designed more for mice, keyboards, etc. and not very high power output.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=psdc_13983771_t2_B074TZKGVR
Yeah. I plan on setting mine up in the basement because of the potential mess/odor but don't want to plug/unplug the flash drive. My FDM has Octoprint which is a drag/drop of my gcode file. Would be nice to have that on my Elegoo. Fortunately I have network connectivity in the basement, so...
Couple of ways I came up with -
Then I just add this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW20/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=usb+share+switch&qid=1566479458&s=gateway&sr=8-8
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I can create a share on the network and drag/drop the files from my main PC upstairs, then when going downstairs and prepping the printer with resin, switch the flash connection over to the Elegoo. When done, switch it back. The netbook can sleep when not in use and WOL with a magic packet.
I think anything intelligent on the "B" side of the switch might do - maybe even a Pi Zero W with Samba (can even use WinSCP on the main PC side to copy files over).
Too bad can't control the printer remotely (other than maybe an intelligent power switch to shut it down). Maybe they'll update the firmware to do it someday...
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Oh yeah - I have an ELP mini IP camera that will watch the printer so I don't have to stand in front of it...
Something like this should work, since most audio interfaces are USB 2.0 devices: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW20/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-b7qBRDPARIsADVbUbUK__BqqQBPIOWWpEdR3tnLmB9p_TAYLeaOE8yr-7eRFwX7hJu-0nkaAiFwEALw_wcB&hvadid=153666990682&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9061080&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15872095889442537056&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-13815470&hydadcr=18000_9428834&keywords=usb+switch&qid=1565562874&s=electronics&sr=1-7
I’ve used a USB switch. Not all of them are made equal. At work I have one that has dedicated mouse/keyboard USB ports so you can switch from the keyboard itself. Doesn’t work well with my keyboard or mouse. So I can’t use the keyboard switching, or the keyboard/mouse ports. It’s also a little slower than I’d like.
I’m needing something similar at home, so I’m taking a different approach. Instead, I want a powered hub to be what gets switched, and use a simpler 1-port USB switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR
To use your USB-C port, you’d need to add an appropriate cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSF39O
You can find these in USB 3.0 (5Gbps) versions, which are more future proof. My suggestion is that I’d want a simple 1-port USB switch like this, and pay the extra for a 3.0 version. For now, you only need the one port, but you can add a hub down the road and if it’s a decent one, get usable performance out of it. It won’t be great for SSDs (my hubs tend to throttle write speeds), but SD Card readers and optical drives would be fine.
Switch:
Sabrent USB 2.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t649Bb4FW6XYW
Dock:
Wavlink USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station, Dual Video Monitor Display HDMI & DVI/VGA with Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports for Laptop, Ultrabook and PCs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XOJ874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xa59Bb94AR8W8
Alternatively: if your monitors can handle the audio input/output and also the usb, you may just be able to rout all your peripherals via the monitors and skip this whole mess.
Something like this? I can find several USB hubs, but not much that lets an incoming USB be split between two outputs.
Sabrent USB 2.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JF8VAb3F4JFD9
If PC and Xbox are near each other buy a USB Hub/Switch.
Example not necessarily a recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW20/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522460049&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+switch
IOGEAR 2-Port USB DisplayPort Cable KVM Switch (GCS52DP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZDQDN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cMOLn3r9TvYNB
Just get a kvm for your setup. They're not too expensive:
https://www.amazon.ca/IOGEAR-GCS52DP-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B076ZDQDN4/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=kvm&qid=1569855071&sr=8-15
I have a PC setup where I can hit a button and switch between two different PC's using a switcher device. If you can find one that switches between hdmi and display-port, but also has what is needed to switch your pc speakers. Then it would just be 1 button press and presto.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B076ZDQDN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is the one I use, you could maybe use a display port to hdmi adapter on the switch end, and get away with this one. I am not sure how that will go over though, maybe someone more tech savvy can chime in. Just throwing this out there I am aware it's not cheap.
>docking station with a KVM
Something like this ?
https://www.amazon.com/TESmart-HDMI-Ultra-Switch-3840x2160/dp/B078LY741V/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=2+hdmi+monitor+kvm+switch&qid=1566783095&s=gateway&sr=8-15
But this only output 1 monitor no ?
My first thought is a KVM like this. Might be expensive and idk if it adds some marginal latency to your keyboard. You plug your PC and Switch HDMI and USB into the KVM and then the KVM to the monitor in question.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078LY741V/ref=psdcmw_13983771_t1_B07NZMM2PK Have a look at this, this has hotkeys as a feature and to activate it, you double tap scroll lock and then the input you want such as Mac. I have never conventionally seen a button KVM not that I am saying they don't exist but most KVM switches are used in data centres or on servers when you have multiple of them. You do however need to put the keyboard and mouse into the KVM for the hotkeys to work.
Amazon US - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ
A 1440p ultrawide is awesome for work.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimized-VIOTEK-GN34C-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B06Y1GZHYJ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498233207&sr=1-2&keywords=3440x1440p
For the two machines get a simple KVM so you can switch back and forth without touching to many wires.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498233128&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+kvm
How many channels do you need? Couldn't you just get a HDMI KVM with a DisplayPort to HDMI?
Something like This and This
I wonder if this could be used to make this workflow a little easier: Plugable USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers (A/B Switch) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wDfzCb7WVB0R3
Since your monitor has multiple inputs, the least expensive solution would be a USB 3.0 switch for your mouse, keyboard, sound, and external hard drive. Something like this: http://amzn.com/B01N6GD9JO
The downside is you'll have to change input both on your monitor and on the USB switch when you want to switch between laptop and desktop. If you want a single button to toggle, then you will need a KVM switch which handles both HDMI/DP and USB 3.0, and that will be significantly more expensive.
Hey, man. I found an example of the sort of equipment, at the end user level, required (and typically used) to bridge that "AIR GAP!!" between classed and unclassed content.
It's pretty technical, but it's called a "KVM switch."
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4
PS4 at least doesn't have the invite option, unless it's hidden else where. In the context menu for a chat there's every option but that, it's kind of weird because that's probably the most used feature... I've been looking into KVM switches to swap my keyboard from PC to PS4 for pure sanity lol. I'm leaning towards this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/
So I'd just have to hit a button to go from PC to PS4 mode. I have 4 displays in my setup and the PS4 is the only one that doesn't play nice.