Best lab digital thermometers according to redditors
We found 94 Reddit comments discussing the best lab digital thermometers. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 94 Reddit comments discussing the best lab digital thermometers. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Probably wise to have an insurance policy:
TmallTech 12V Red Digital Fahrenheit degree Thermometer High Low Alarm -76-257F Temperature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AWZMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kJANwb151NF7T
Or you can just take a rheostat or dimmer switch or whatever and and mount it in a wallbox inline with the AC and badabing badaboom your twenty dollar weller just got a whole lot fancier. The just use a thermocouple and sharpy to mark various temps around the dial.
WA state medical patient with RA and wanting to do a real grow for almost a decade. Helped a few friends with their grows and trim sessions over the years and also attempted a few outdoor hidden grows with little success (bad weather, theft, pests/animals). Finally decided to save up and do it properly now that I have space indoors. I have been lurking /r/microgrowery for over a year now and have learned a lot and want to thank you all for everything you do. I also want to thank the YouTubers Growing With Mr.Tight, JustinTime2Grow, and medgrower1 for also being excellent resources. Now onto the details:
 
    Equipment
Gorilla Grow Tent 4x4
2x 600w MH / HPS lights for a total of 1200w. 75w per sq. ft.
400 CPM 6in In-Line Fan
Phresh Filter 400 CFM
Hygrometer
TDS Meter
Infrared Thermometer
Grow Room Glasses
 
    Plants
Blue Dream - DJ Short x Santa Cruz Haze. 80% Sativa / 20% Indica. 7-8 week flower cycle
Boy Scout Cookies - Girl Scout Cookies Thin Mint x Pre-98 Bubba Kush. 60% Indica / 40% Sativa. 8 week flower cycle.
Darth Vader Haze - 4-way Black Haze Black Cross. 100% Sativa. 9-10 week flower cycle.
Grand Daddy Purple - Big Bud x Purple Urkle. Indicia Dominant. 8-9 week flower cycle.
 
    Grow Medium and Feed
5 gal Smart Pots
Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil
Fox Farm Trio
18-6 Lighting cycle for veg. full 1200w of MH.
Using tap water and PH Down (is around 8.0 right out of the tap). I let the water sit for at least a few hours to let any chemicals leech out into the air and bring it closer to room temp.
 
The GDP went in almost a full day later. It was a younger clone and I was worried about the transplanting shocking it, but turned out fine. One of my MH bulbs had bits of broken glass in the outer part and didn't work so I had to wait on a replacement arrived on day 6. Also I ordered the wrong size Phresh filter and am waiting for the refund to process so I can get the right size. Temps have been hovering around 80F ambient with the lights on and 40% RH.
Temp minimum during dark cycle is 68-70F and humidity maxed out around 85% RH.
First watering with nutrients will be as soon as the soil dries a bit more (still damp at knuckle deep). Will be doing a half strength of the Big Bloom for the first feed likely tomorrow morning an hour or so after the lights kick on.
I eventually want to get an 8x4 to use as a flower tent and have the 4x4 as a veg tent to set up a perpetual grow. I am also seriously looking at the GrowBlu lights for veg when I do this, the results I am seeing from the guys on YouTube using them just looks amazing. I also want to switch over to en Ebb and Flow type system instead of soil when I do that, but that is something I need to look into much more.
Have you seen what Amazon has on sale today?
http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Channel-Digital-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/
Ok let me start at the beginning.
I now own my RadRover eBike for almost 7 months. Great bike, I'm closing in at 4000km on it. The bike is great but comes standard with a 48v battery and while it's decent, it doesn't compare to the Luna Dolphin 52v I run through it mostly.
I bought my 52v dolphin pack from luna cycle, as well as the advance 300 watt charger, their top model.
I always leave all my chargers plugged in even when not charging. None of my chargers have a problem except this advance charger I bought from luna.
After just 4 weeks the LCD stopped working that gave out the voltage read out, I had it warrantied, they send me a new LCD. And the weird thing is they had me manually open up the charger and do the replacement myself, rather then sending in the unit for exchange.
4 Weeks later the same LCD blew. I kept using the charger for another 2 months, and then the charger stopped working all together. I contacted support again, and they told me that the chargers are not very durable and should not be moved around, I told them it was in the same spot in my garage but they refused to replace it. They send me a 2Amp 52v charger instead, ($35)
I got pretty fed up.
I went to youtube to look for other options and I came across this a video of a Swedish guy who build his own charger.
Components looked solid and I have my own printer so I can customize it so I thought why not.
The whole reason this and many other chargers like this are failing is due to poor cooling, they have a 1x1" fan to cool as 12" box thats loaded with crap, this is why I wanted to do my own design that would focus around cooling.
Here is what I ordered
$12 - 2 of Bgears b-Blaster 90mm 2 Ball Bearing High Speed Extreme Airflow Fan
getting returned * $45 - LETOUR Power Supply 12V 40A 500W AC 110V/220V Voltage Converter
$22 - DROK® Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter
$45 - Yeeco Numerical Control DC DC Boost Voltage Converter, 6-60V to 6-90V 10A 600W
$36 - DROK DC-DC Numerical Control Step Down Voltage Converter, 6-65V to 0-60V 8A 400W
$13 - Yeeco DC Motor Speed Control Driver Board 3V-35V 5A PWM Controller
$11 - DIGITEN DC 12V LED Digital Thermometer -50-220F Fahrenheit Temperature + Temp Probe Red
$7 - Switch I had one already but something like this will work
$10 - Screws I also had to mount the controllers + power supply to the PLA
$3 - LED Lights
$8 - Header Set of raisers x 2
$25 - PLA Wasted about 1 roll
total 212 CAD or $165 US
I've been printing for a couple months now so still a noob, and learning how to create in fusion 360, but for a first project it turned out pretty good.
I first tried this with a 500 watt 12V 40AMP power supply, which i though would work great with the step up converter to bring it up to 58.8v for my 52v battery, but it didn't, it's actually kinda bullshit advertising.
the 600 Watt step up converter I bought can only step up to 600 watts at 60v, at 12v it can only output 120 watts, 10a x 12v. Basically this charger could only charge at 120 watts / 58.8v, roughly 2 amps, or what a basic shitty charger that comes with the bike can do. No point of going through all this to make a 2 amp charger.
So I opted to switch to a 48v power supply, so i can get close to 480 watts out of the charger.
The new power supply came in and I got it up and running, but for the hell of me could not charge at more then 4 amps, I tested with bigger wires, and I didn't know why it was dropping to 30v under load. Then as i was putting it away for return, I saw the stupid small side switch that was set on 220v instead of 110v. I swapped it over to 110v, and viola the charger was flying at just over 7 amps, 7 x 53v or almost 400 watts.
Now it was time to build a case for this thing.
I designed the case in fusion 360 with cooling in mind, so I put 2 high cfm fans in, one at the top blowing air out, and the one on the bottom sucking air in.
Since the power supply is almost the size of my 300mm print bed, I knew I had to print it in 2 pieces and assemble it after.
Final assembly is still in progress, I have everything mounted in, cables hidden as much as I could, waiting on more black PLA, so i can reprint the top and make the bottom translucent with the LEDs behind.
I'm also waiting on more raisers to come, so I can bring the adjustable LCD for the Step up converter above the front cover. This way I can switch between the pre-sets I programed in, 48V Slow / Fast / Preserve ( 85% ) & 52V Slow / Fast / Preserve ( 85% )
I have a temp gauge in and it's showing a good 10 degrees cooler with the fans on. The whole idea of the fans is just to make a wind tunnel through the whole case. The step up and step down converter fans have been removed as they are not needed anymore. I also added a variable DC-DC knob thingy so I can adjust the fan speed, depending how fast I charge.
Before you say You shouldn't charge at such high amps, I actually charge around 6 amps on my 52v which has the upgraded high discharge rate cells and can handle alot more then 6 amps. And for the 48v stock battery I just run it at 3 Amps all day and it's pretty happy.
Questions ?
video of Nexi and his project
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGrBT_P9Xfc
Also, for the price, this thermocouple can't be beat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm on my 4th or 5th roast with the same setup and it's worked out well so far. I haven't had much to tweak, just:
I haven't had to touch the stirrer rod yet. Monitoring the temperature of the beans is done with a digital thermometer, I simply shove the probe down into the beans. Feel free to hit me up with any other questions.
Thank you!
Mr. Aqua 12g Long Tank (standard glass)
Keynice Digital Thermometer
NICREW ClassicLED Plus
Hygger Submersible Heater
Fluval C2 Power Filter
Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride (for cycling)
Vintage Dark Brown Console Table (for stand)
(Seachem Flourite, Standard Aquarium Gravel, Polished River Rocks, Black Glass Rock, Blue Glass Rock)
(Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hair Grass, Red Pearl Amazon Sword)
I know a number of pros that use these because they're: accurate, quicker than they're rated, and won't break the bank if one walks off.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDI8PK
I'd recommend picking up a humidity meter and one of these. 45-55% is the right spot for a guitar if I remember right - the D'addario system maintains quite well right around 50% anytime I check the case.
When you aren't playing it keep the guitar in the case with the packets. You can probably find ways to do it for cheaper but this is a super easy way. I'm still on my first set of those humidity packets and I got them in December. Keep the case closed when the guitar is out so they'll last longer.
For acoustic guitars especially keeping proper humidity is a big deal. I neglected this for a while and just happen to be lucky to live in a place where the humidity is mostly in the right range. However if we have an extra dry/rainy few days the ambient humidity can swing from 30-80% and I definitely notice the effect on the guitars if I leave them out. An old roommate of mine had a guitar that was totally f'ed up from not being humidified properly.
If you have any issues with your guitar, give it a week or so in an environment w/ the proper humidity. That may resolve the issues without you taking an unnecessary trip to a repair shop.
No problem! Apart from building the thing, you either need a MAX31855 type K thermocouple or a MAX31856 type S along with a fitting sensor probe with a ceramics enclosure that matches the type. The type defines what metals are used in measuring temperature in the thermocouple. Type K maxes out just around the temperatures you are dealing with but they are common and quite cheap. Type S has Platinum and can handle much higher temperatures and is therefore much more expensive and not that easy to find.
If you don't want to build anything and just want to read the temperature while you are at it, maybe something like this would work if you also got either a K or S probe to go with it: Amazon
The thing with pottery is that the part where everyhing goes is the kiln - twice - is very long and you want to log that data and monitor it remotely. The Arduino+MAX31855+Type K probe in the exhaust vent+Blynk was rather successful!
Assuming you're wanting a thermometer to double check your tank temp?
I have this one which has been super accurate with no problems for 6 months so far.
VEE GEE Scientific 83211-12 High Accuracy Digital Thermometer 12" Stem (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIQ6SPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PXVRDbWAJCYPE
Throw a themocouple in your oven next time you clean it. You can be within a few %, which is more accurate than your oven's built in thermometer is anyway.
If you don't have one or a multimeter, you can buy a themometer with 2 probes for $20: http://smile.amazon.com/Signstek-6802-Channel-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=pd_sim_hi_21?ie=UTF8&refRID=03ER12NYTAT2H33ZTVAH
Hey, sorry I'm slow. Imgur just wouldn't let me sign in. Here's a pic of the sr500 with the thermometer.
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https://i.postimg.cc/kX2Y61sy/roaster.jpg
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And here's a pic of my most recent roast profile. I just enter the temp every few seconds into an Excel firm. Then I plot the temperature and the first derivative of temperature. I don't do this every roast, as it's kind of a pain. Just with new beans.
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https://i.postimg.cc/TPJtMZ2T/Screen-Shot-2019-05-07-at-9-22-22-AM.png
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Also, the thermometer & probe can be found here for about $15:
https://www.amazon.com/58F-1382F-Digital-Thermometer-K-probe/dp/B01M2Z11QF
I use one of these with a type k thermocouple: Leaton Digital Thermocouple Thermometer Dual-channel LCD Backlight Temperature Meter Tester for K/J/T/E/R/S/N Great (Batteries included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018QHQSB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DcZ2CbDBBJRWV
https://www.amazon.com/Thermocouple-Thermometer-RISEPRO-Channel-200-1372%C2%B0C/dp/B07D9JF5SD
If you don't need a lot of precision go with a cheap setup like that. Only has about 1 degree of accuracy.
If your air temps ever hit 65 degrees it means your ventilation is terrible. Just don't use a restrictive front panel, and at least 2 case fans.
To get into the XBox:
I'm using a Samsung 850 Evo 512GB. With the partitioning, that left me with about 375GB left for games. That's why I also use an external.
I have noticed a LOT of improvements. Booting the xbox one is a breeze... getting through menus is more fluid, and downloading/installing updates takes a considerably less amount of time.
I recommend this process to anyone who is patient, tech savvy, and can follow directions. So, I told my brother to not, under any circumstance, attempt to replace his hard drive. :)
As far as the cooling box goes...
I come from the PC realm. So, thermals are always at the top of my mind. I was actually very happy with how the Xbox One X handled games. However, Monster Hunter: World and PUBG's Title Screen proved to overwork the processor. It got my xbox COOKING. Even with it being extra warm, I didn't decide to make one for the xbox.
The project started as a desk mod for my overly hot laptop. That laptop needs all the thermal dissipation assistance it can get. So, I bore out holes in my desk's center drawer, mounted a few 120mm fans, hooked up 12VDC power to a PWM controller, and wired up the fans to the output of the PWM controller. It was really easy to do.
Out of curiosity, I wanted to see what it was like to have the Xbox in the drawer. To my surprise, the Xbox was cool to the touch by just introducing an exhaust fan. (Most of the heat is towards the back of the xbox, where the CPU is) So, I got the idea to make an enclosure for it and install a thermal sensor.
$20 later in wood, screws, and hinges, I created the box.
The temperature sensor cost $13. I chose an ambient sensor, because I didn't want to disassemble the CPU's heatsink to add a more accurate sensor.
So, what are its successes? The box is enclosed. With the fans off and the front bay open, temps can get into the 50s Celsius. if I turn the fans on, the temps will get down into the 30s. You can touch your hand to the Xbox to see if it's getting hot or not, and it's always cool to the touch where it ought to be super hot.
Just to cover these points, the reasons why you ought to make sure your temperatures are in check:
There's a lot of people who'd say that the xbox doesn't need extra cooling, but google searches confirmed that people are experiencing overheating with the One X (and more specifically, PUBG).
TL;DR I built the box because some games were making it hot and I didn't want hot.
I'm using the Bitspower one and have been very happy with it. In my case I placed it in one of the bottom ports of my radiator. The length of the sensor doesn't really matter, as long as the water flows across it.
I'm also using one of these for the display Keynice Digital Thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7T6TZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When I got my new source XL gr1 inset it to 366 and it defiantly improved. If you want to test it get one of these Signstek 3 1/2 6802 II Dual Channel Digital Thermometer 1300°C 2372°F with 2 K-Type Thermocouple Sensor Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xHQLwb0FWK2S2
this simple hand held reader
https://www.amazon.com/Leaton-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Dual-channel-Temperature/dp/B018QHQSB8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=thermocouple+reader&qid=1567744707&s=gateway&sr=8-5
i leave one of the blue ones plugged in to get an ambient temp. i doubt the blue coating is food safe, so it doesn't go in the roaster
https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-TL1004-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B0142RXG84/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=thermocouple+type+k&qid=1567744740&s=gateway&sr=8-10
that one goes in the roaster/bread chamber. i try to cram it to one corner, where it will move as little as possible. i have it low enough that i want the beans to be hitting it and giving me as close to a bean temp as possible. it has helped me a lot because i've had different green beans sound different at first crack, or not make the noise at all. so by seeing the temp, i can say "oh fuck, stop stop stop, that's reading way too high now".
If you want consistent measurements, buy lab gear, not kitchen gear.
I use this one from Fisher Scientific
http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Scientific-Digital-Thermometers-Stem/dp/B0015SGXAM
It's not the most elegant, but it's accurate and precise, and that's what I need.
One trick i discovered for quicker readings; fill a travel coffee mug with hot water in the same general temperature range you're trying to measure (ie, around 145-160ish for mashing). Put the lid on, and slide this probe in through the drinking hole. This will keep the probe at roughly the correct range, and reduce your temperature read time to just a couple seconds rather than 10-15. The water will slowly cool down (depending on how good your travel mug is) but you can just pour off a portion of it into a microwaveable mug, microwave it 'til it's boiling, then add back in to raise the temp. This allows me to take quick readings of my mash temperature without leaving the cooler lid open too long.
I just ordered this the other day. I think this fits the bill for what /u/SHv2 needs.
Hot air station, Preheater, Dual thermometer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5BCIFR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
Yep it's simple as that you can get in electronics stem thermometer get yourself a couple of them from Amazon. 50 degrees outside you should have at least 20 degree temperature rise through the heat pump. I'm assuming that both units are going to be having a return air that is pretty much the same. Milder temperatures they should be able to have a better idea of how the charge is. If the line set is licking the only way they can determine that if they would have to shut down your heat pump and pressure test. Might have to let it sit for a week or two see if it loses pressure. These work well for checking temperatures
UEi Test Instruments PDT650 Folding Pocket Digital Thermometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7WO1DbKY1XHGF
IR thermometers won't work well on something that small or that shiny. A temperature meter with a contact sensor is what you want. (example)
This one? 12.99 USA right now
Inkbird Hygrometer Thermometer Dc 3V Input Digital Temperature Humidity Meter Gauge °F °C Monitor Indoor ITH10 Cigar Humidor Reptile Terrarium Incubator Greenhouse Basement Guitar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JL1M4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NiTuDb97NFCSX
Aww jeez, Rick. That doesn't look good. I think the technical term for that is "cratered".
My guess would honestly be that the chip itself overheated due to the high current. This is a problem for a heatsink and maybe a fan. I hesitate to say this though, because both the trace AND the chip are utterly destroyed. Maybe a bad solder joint on the chip caused it to overheat?
Are you willing to sacrifice another channel of that board? Might be worth hooking up a stepper in such a way that it's permanently stalled and just running it until it pops, while carefully monitoring the board's temperature. You should at the very least be able to tape down a thermocouple with kapton, and they sell cheap dual K-type thermocouples with a digital readout on Amazon. I've personally had this one to over 700C, and while it DEFINITELY didn't like it and the insulation burned up, it still works. The best solution here is definitely a thermal camera, and if you can afford it you'll be able to pinpoint where the heat is coming from - the traces or the chip.
A good experiment would be to get a thermometer or thermal camera, and hook up one channel with a heatsink and one without. Monitor both chip's temperatures and see how hot they get, again with the motor stalled. The A4983 is supposed to be good to 150C before it detonates according to the datasheet, although it definitely won't be performing well at that temperature. If you see it getting close (within 20C or so) of that temperature, it's likely just not dissipating enough heat.
Would be very interested to see the redesign, if you decide to do one. If you haven't yet read Dave Jones' PCB layout tutorial, I suggest you do. Lots of really great information there, particularly about making your circuit boards neat and professional, not just so they work.
Minor edit: just thinking about the traces, remember that the ACTUAL current can be much higher than intended when you're working with motors or other large inductive loads. A "2A" limit can turn into 20A if something causes a large acceleration on the motor (like a robotic arm hitting a stop and stalling). That'll fry your trace if you specced it for 2A. Make the power traces big and fat. Bigger. Unless you're squeezing the other traces thinner (not just closer), you can go very large with your power traces. You're paying a flat rate for the amount of copper on the board, use it all. Don't squeeze out the ground plane (it's just as important) and don't squeeze the other traces too thin, but if there's any feel free to use it.
I have never had good luck with any spring type oven thermometer. Either they are way off from the beginning, or they get less accurate as time goes by. I got so sick of it I bought a multiprobe thermocouple thermometer specifically to calibrate my ovens.
Just got this: http://amzn.com/B0015SGXAM
Been really pleased with it.
I'm about to purchase my second of this model.
Amazon
My first suffered a tragic paint stirrer accident.
Pretty sure this is Fahrenheit as you want to dry the jerky low and slow. And yes, your oven can likely go this low but, if you wonder, get one of the little inexpensive, in-the-oven thermometers to be sure.
Drill a hole for a probe and use something like this https://amzn.com/B00FFYEPVQ
I use this Amprobe with my 1600+. The wires do not terminate in long metal probes, so I can easily snake them into the roaster. This model also has USB so I can log roasts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHZLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I ordered last year. 6 bucks. Just search for "mini hygrometer" on amazon and you'll find lots of them.
Do you need that many channels? I would go with something simple [this] (http://www.omega.com/pptst/OM-EL-USB-TC.html) if you don't need to centralize a bunch of inputs.
If you don't need USB (logging/monitoring) you could use something like this instead.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXZVNG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A cheap thermocouple will go a long ways with this (and future diagnostics). I got one from amazing for about 20$.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively - you could just replace the resistor with a 4.7k pull up - which would cost all of 50cents.
Cooper-Atkins DFP450W-0-8
I have one of these. Its cheap, seems to be spot-on accurate, and quick. The other day the screen broke (probably my fault I put in the dishwasher) and I emailed their CS and they just sent me a new one no questions asked. They just told me to toss out the old one and the new one would get mailed to me at no cost to myself at all. I was very pleasantly surprised.
buy a pocket thermometer and stick in the vent closest to the air handler in the attic. Then buy a temp/humidity sensor that sits on a table. You should see a 16-20 degree differential between the two temps.
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https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714391
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_uCgMBbEQR1CGF
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I have had this thermometer before. After a few months, it was variably off +/- 20 degrees when it was checked for accuracy.
Now, a good thermometer is Cooper. Check out this one. Had it for about 2 years. Totally waterproof. 100% accurate every time. Instant readings.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-Digital-Waterproof-Thermometer/dp/B000LDI8PK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370694381&sr=8-2&keywords=cooper+thermometer
What I would suggest, from a cost standpoint, is calling around to different HVAC companies and asking if they could come and take these measurements for you. The combination of tools can get quite costly. Of course this will only give you one set of measurements at one set of conditions. But if you'd like to do it yourself, here you go:
Anyone can measure static pressure: Part 1
Anyone can measure static pressure: Part 2
Tools required: manometer
Measuring Airflow (CFM)
Tools required dual input thermometer
Superheat and Subcooling: an explanation
Measuring superheat and subcooling
Tools required: gauges and hoses
Yea that's exactly what I do. The leaves that aren't intertwined with bud. Like the leaves that just come from the stem without bud. Maybe even a few really huge leaves that are easy to pluck off. When my bud dries the leaves kinda curl up around it. For some reason this really kept the smell. People say that wet trimming is easier but I felt that the dry trimming was much easier. Stems snap better, dried bud moves better for detailed trimming, and I wasn't trimming much of the wet hairs/product since the bud became more compact.
My only additional suggestion would be to grab yourself some cheap hygrometer for your jars. Like this and tape them on the inside of your jars. This will give you a sense of the humidity in your jars. More accuracy versus just guessing. You don't really need one for each jar. I picked up 4 of them for about 8 jars. You can move these around to get an idea. If the meters read 70% or greater your bud isn't dry enough to cure. Leave the bud out for an hour or two, put back in jars for a while and check again. If the meter reads between 65-70% just remove the tops of the jars for about 15 minutes. Once the bud hits 60-65% you are actively curing.
Also, great article on grow weed easy about all of this. It's what I used as a guide.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermocouple-Thermometer-Dual-channel-Backlight-Temperature/dp/B018QHQSB8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462914613&sr=8-5&keywords=k+type+thermometer
https://kingpincooling.com/products/extreme-type-k-probe
would these do the job?
There are several on Amazon.com under $20. See here for one that would work for your purposes.
Thanks! Forgive some very basic questions, but what is ramp/soak? And why is a PID controller better than, say, a logging digital thermometer like this? (though that thermometer is more expensive than ideal considering my cheap roaster...)
Whovian here. Amy Pond is my favorite companion so far. And also, I'll forever be waiting for that blue box to fall out of the sky and take me away.
item
Someone might know of a more technical answer, to repair or calibrate the oven - landlords job? But I would purchase a thermometer - this one is cheap, but fine - http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-24HP-01-1-Stainless-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00125TABM
Then test and see how much hotter the set temperature is over the actual. If the oven is just running hot, you could just adjust how you dial up the oven (i.e. Set at 350 to bake at 400). Hopefully it's not a problem with the oven, where it's not cycling properly.
If you're interested, I'm happy to help you with learning slip casting in trade for some help programming? This is me.
You've done some great work, I'd love to learn how to use just part of it to hook up a portable pyrometer to log the data of an computer controlled electric kiln.
Also, you might like to look into how Blaauw Kilns function. At this point they are the most advanced kilns available, with programmable gas firings using an oxygen probe.
Sweet work!
Do it oven first, then sear. That way there is no need to rest it afterwords as the oven evenly heats it and the moisture remains evenly distributed. That way your steak is the right doneness, but at the highest temperature so it's nice to eat. Get something like this so you can set an alarm for when it hits the temp you want it to be while it's in the oven. It seems that the consensus is 350f oven temp. If you're unsure about if your oven is getting the temp right, one of these will come in handy.
Personally, I like the type-K thermocouples because they are fast and accurate, and you can also switch out the probes (Thermoworks alone has a metric shitton of Type-K probes). I use a 39" wire probe for brewing, and a rigid penetration probe (hehe) for cooking.
For the meter itself (the thing you plug the probes into), Thermoworks has a bunch of them, though they're on the expensive side compared to a backlit two-probe meter from Amazon. I use one similar to this guy.
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-TMD-56-Multi-Logging-Thermometer-Accuracy/dp/B005GFHZLG
That should work for you
Edit: they make other models; usb logging and such... take a pick; including ones that can be submersed.
It’s a fan and thermometer. Found the thermometer on Amazon.
Keynice Digital Thermometer, Temperature Sensor USB Power Supply, Fahrenheit degree and Degrees Celsius color LCD Display, High Accurate-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1RDJOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yozOBbGTS7JMQ
>And yes, i also have an arduino which controls 2 12V rails (Light & air) via mosfets which is connected to a humidity and temperature sensor
Well, who else here is going to do that? You keep missing that point. I don't care what you or I can do. I've got about a dozen Aduinos, dozens of sensors laying around, etc etc. Big deal. I care about what others can do so their problems can be solved.
Most people here are beginners and most don't have Arduinos, they just want to grow some pot. You are completely missing the point about others not being able to even duplicate a simple 555 timer design- I don't care if you can and already assumed you could.
>very sensitive to the vapor pressure in a high light environment (Which does not exist if the light is off)
This does not matter if plants are freezing to death when the lights go out. You are also missing this point. A common question is "can I grow out in my garage in winter". Now solve that problem without using an Arduino.
But I'm running tests. I get about a 1 degree F temperature rise for every 1 watt input with a power resistor (peltier module) in a five gallon bucket with no extensions. I'm using a four input temperature meter calibrated to a Fluke 287 that is calibrated to an ice bath.
I'm also doing testing with a 55 watt UFO in a bucket with a single 40mm exhaust fan at 0, 4, 6, 12, and 14 volts (because you can buy a cheap variable power supply so the layman could duplicate this). I'll post results later on a separate thread since you got me curious about this.
https://imgur.com/a/8CwTLsy
BTW, I got my hands on the Teesy 4.0 it's really a remarkable Arduino controller being super scalar at 600 MHz. This is a deal at $20 and you should pick one up.
edit- little bit of grammar
Any of them should be suitable, the more expensive ones typically just have faster response times. This one should be fine It just won't give instantaneous readings:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018QHQSB8
If you can afford it (say $70) - don't get a Thermapen, get a K Type thermocouple brain and a food-grade submersible probe.
The brains are universal and cheap (and read up to two probes independently)
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Channel-Digital-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483083745&sr=8-9&keywords=K+type
The probe looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-50360-K-Thermocouple-Stainless-Temperature/dp/B00DYC9ZUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483083631&sr=8-1&keywords=K+type+thermocouple+food
Apart from these two pieces, you need a 9V battery. Some 3M foam tape is also good if your dad does Sous Vide. These thermocouples allow for constant probe readings the way you'd use an old fashioned roasting probe, except you can use this under water, in oil, in a smoker, on a grill, in a fridge, or in a pan. For things that overcook quickly or are blind cooked, this is the best thermal tool you can get right now.
I would just stick the probe inside the grates? Something like below device would work?
https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W5255YO2AKBR&keywords=hvac+temperature+probe&qid=1563531434&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+tempe%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3
This is the best
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001VXZVNG/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
That's just going to measure the heat of the walls of the oven, what you want to measure is the heat of the air inside the oven, for that you need something like this. for an accurate reading.