Best laptop chargers & adapters according to redditors
We found 1,166 Reddit comments discussing the best laptop chargers & adapters. We ranked the 468 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,166 Reddit comments discussing the best laptop chargers & adapters. We ranked the 468 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![60W USB C/Type C Wall Charger, Smallest Laptop/Phone USBC Power Travel Wall Adapter, Compatible with iPhone 11/ MacBook Pro/iPad/Pixel, USB PD Power Delivery, Charge Fast, Foldable US Plugs [60C]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41ExTLmwaeL.jpg)
I feel like I'm posting about USB too much here, but people keep asking because it's easy to get confused about it. I just copied the table I made a while ago in a comment and added FAQs and notes for outside the US.
I hope this answers what people are really looking for better than the other threads.
Do you have some specific need I didn't answer? Have a USB-C charger you're curious about that isn't listed? Ask in a comment. Just keep in mind that (other than the iPad one) USB-A chargers won't give you good speeds. This includes the chargers bundled with even the most recent phones by Samsung, Apple, Sony, LG, and HTC.
I'll use this comment to note some USB-C chargers I'm aware of but don't recommend:
---------
Charging speeds vary
These chargers can give the Switch great speeds sometimes, but usually they're closer to just "okay". It seems to be random every time you plug it in. If the Switch is completely turned off (not just in sleep) when you plug it in, you'll almost always get those "great" speeds for as long as you keep it plugged in even after turning the Switch back on and playing. This happens because Nintendo's implementation of USB Power Delivery (USB PD) is very buggy. They're a hassle to use right for now, so I don't recommend them, especially since there are better alternatives now.
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Anker PowerPort+ 5|$39.99|Amazon|Use the USB-C port. It also offers 4 USB-A ports. No USB cables included.
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$79.99|Amazon|
UGREEN 30W USB-PD charger|$17.99|Amazon|No cable included.
----------
Safety issues
These don't damage the Switch, but they can damage other USB-C cables and devices, especially if you plug them in to something that doesn't make sense, like another charger. If you know how to use them right and you're careful, you won't damage anything, but why risk it? Get something else.
Charger|Link|Notes
--|--|--
CHOETECH USB C 15W charger|Amazon|
Anker PowerPort+ 1 USB-C QC3.0|Amazon|Any USB-C port that offers QC3.0 has known issues
----------
Great but expensive
If you have a USB-C laptop, feel free to get one of these, but otherwise don't bother. Plenty of chargers in my OP work just as well with Switch and are much cheaper.
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included when bought on its own. The 15-inch model's 87W charger is probably great too.
Apple 29W USB-C charger|$49|Amazon, Apple|Bundled with non-Pro MacBooks, no cable included when bought on its own. Poor speeds with most other non-Apple devices.
Innergie 45W USB-C charger|$59.99|Amazon|Works with the dock, great with laptops and phones too.
---------
Unconfirmed speeds (and expensive)
These chargers are also too expensive to recommend. They probably work great, but I haven't seen any reports of people actually trying any of them. They all probably work with the dock too. If anybody has one of these, please tell me if it works with the dock.
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Dell 45W charger|$49.99|Dell|Included with some Dell laptops.
Dell 45W Plus|$59.99|Dell|Use the USB-C cable. There's also a USB-A port for charging other devices.
Dell 65W charger|$69.99|Amazon|Included with some Dell laptops.
Dart USB-C charger|$99.99|FINsix|
Razer 12800mAh battery|$149.99|Razer|Use the USB-C port.
You're in luck! You're very fortunate that you chose a laptop with a Thunderbolt 3 port, otherwise the display would otherwise not work, as the Apple TB displays do not work on DisplayPort, despite being theoretically possible. There's six pages of discussion about this very issue in an Apple support thread here.
This is what you need on Amazon, then you should be good. Good luck!
I bought this last week to pop my mirrorless camera in - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013MC88OW/
A bit over, but I like a good USB charger - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MXXOQTE
Amazon pro-tip - use a price tracking tool, like https://keepa.com/ to watch when stuff you want drops in price or goes on a lightning deal. You can also get a browser plugin to add a price chart into the Amazon page.
Dude, I think your on to some thing if you get a SFX Power Supply With a bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T3XP3DF1A2Q36CZPNVNK
This 2 USB wall plug
It'll merrily charge 2 devices from a single plug. Lifesaver if you travel a lot, especially to places where plug sockets are at a premium. I've suggested a few times that a stranger and I share a socket in use and both charge our phones.
If you're determined to spend that £20, plump for a 6 foot micro USB/USB C/Litening cable as required.
Reality is stranger than fiction.
"Plug in two micro-USB cables to charge our power bank twice as fast!" as opposed to "we implemented high-power USB-PD properly so you can use a high-speed USB-C power adapter to charge this even faster!"
I built this build a while ago. Check it out! Also note that you can now buy the SG06-Lite, a PSU-less case. Then you could get their Gold-rated, modular PSU instead of the Bronze-rated, non-modular PSU that comes with the normal SG06 case. This would only add $10 to your total cost. Well worth it.
If you need more space (for a card longer than 10.5 inches), check out the SG08! It's a great case as well. :)
Clarification: Here is the standard SG06, w/ 450W PSU. What I meant was that you could buy the Lite version, then buy the Gold-rated modular PSU. The total cost would be about the same as buying the standard SG06, but you'd be getting a fully modular, Gold-rated PSU instead of a non-modular Bronze-rated PSU. Sevex notes, however, that the modular PSU can cause some issues with the optical disk tray.
You will need a thunderbolt 3 double hdmi output dongle
Apple doesn’t make one but there are other manu that do
Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-HDMI-Adapter-Black/dp/B01ANR5AJU
Innergie 60c is only 88 grams and almost half the size of Card Adapter 4-Pro but delivers full 60 watt.
Granted it doesn't have a universal adapter built in, but you can pair it with a Kikkerland universal adapter and you can avoid single point of failure inherent in the card4pro
https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-Adapter-US-PowerDelivery-Technology-USB-World-Small/dp/B07GBYVF4Q
There are 2 versions of this: one is a US-only prong that can fold up and the other is the international version with swappable prongs for EU, US, UK, but sadly no Australian prong. Don't know why they excluded Australia, which is why I just bought the US version and paired it with a Kikkerland adapter.
You have a couple of options to drive dual 4K monitors.
I've used all three on my 9550 and they all produce dual 4K at 60Hz. As others have said, the HDMI is version 1.4, meaning that it can produce 4K but only at 30Hz.
Here are the details copied from my post on the elektronauts forum too for more specifics
Took some time to find the best solution, but I can run the Digitone, Digitakt, and Keystep from one battery pack too with the setup.
I did have to modify latches so I could remove the lid on the Magma case though. Here is what I used to make it all work
MAGMA Carry-Lite L DJ Case… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077C53DQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Reliable Hardware Company… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ18XIM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
POWERADD Pilot Pro 32000mAh Power… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN0KBXU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Has been on Amazon for a couple weeks now:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MO675S8/
Mine is out for delivery today, can't wait :)
EDIT: Time to get it installed! https://i.imgur.com/ofvixt2.jpg
Since no one actually answered your question, yes you can get small PSUs like you are looking for. Generally they are made for small form factor PCs and as a result have low wattage.
http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f
This is not as easy as a standard ATX PSU that /r/buildapc is used to and that's probably why you're getting the responses that you are.
If you want a more standard unit: look at something like this from silverstone (it is higher wattage than you're looking for)
I built my pc in a node 202 a few weeks back. If you see the pictures you'll see how compact it is. However you probably need a more powerful psu then my 450w It doent support hard drives so you might need to buy an external enclosure.
another case that might work is cryorig's new cases, haku and ola. those aren't released yet though.
IMO i would go with the ola unless you need the upgrade right now.
Edit: i think im shadowbanned? not sure why
Ok heres everything you need to know about powerbanks and USB-C:
Powerbanks have been a thing for around a decade perhaps. They get better every year as technology improves. in 2015 we saw the first powerbanks to support USB-C. Initially these were not used for anything really as nothing even used USB-C. Only a couple flagship, expensive phones just got the port and maybe the new GoPro which came out in the fall. You were better off buying a power bank without USB-C for less money.
Then 2016 rolls around. Now we have a few more devices on the market, and the USB-C powerbanks might be useful to some people. USB-C has something called Power Delivery (Or PD) which is a standard for delivering power over a USB-C connection in high capacity. Now we can use this USB-C to charge high draw items quickly, like laptops. We can also charge our gopros and phones much faster. Apple comes out with some sort of Mac book product which is highly overpriced, but has USB-C charging.
Now its 2017. Apple fans are going crazy and want to charge their laptops on their powerbanks. To do this they need 29w of output power. So the powerbank companies all make a bunch of powerbanks that are better than the previous ones. Now their powerbanks support 30W of output. This is great because you can now charge your MAc book (Whch requires 29W) off of your new powerbank. So dell updates their XPS 13 line (9350) and calls the new one ("the new XPS 13" (9360) ). This new one has a USB-C port too, but it needs 45 W of power. Dell fans arnt as large or trendy as Apple fans, and nobody hears their cries. Powerbanks on the market dont work because they all go to 30W or less, and dell XPS 13 needs at least 43W.
2018 rolls around and Dell goes for another XPS update. they call it exactly the same as they did before ("the new xps") which just leads to confusion. This one is numbered 9370 tho and its released in Jan 2018. Again this new laptop needs 43 W to charge. So alas all those 2017 powerbanks still dont work with the XPS.
But XPS fans have been bitching for over a year, and there are alot. Also a few other laptops are using higher watt power supplies on their tiny laptops. So now powerbanks are starting to come out that support up to 65 W . This is great becuase they will charge the XPS. The technology is here, but we still need to wait for all the 2018 powerbanks to come out. So far its only a couple companies. The big ones like Anker and Rav power still dont have any.
So what to look for? Well thats simple. USB-C output is always defined in Amp and Volt combinations. You might see powerbanks with listings like
15V/3A
5V/2A
All you need to do is multiply to get the Watts. As you can see from the examples above, the first one would work with the Dell XPS 9370 because it = 45W. The other one would not as it only does 10W.
So you can either wait 1-4 months and hope some new powerbanks come out which support 45W+ or you can buy whats on the market now, and from my limited searching that appears to be the official dell powerbank (Supports 65W over USBC), This one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CY91S2/) and a few more unknown brands if you dig around.
Another route to take would be to get a powerbank with an AC charging port. These are generally higher capacity and while their USB-C ports (If they have them) wont charge at 45W, their dedicated AC port surly does (Which means you can plug in your laptops power adapter into it) I may do this as then I could charge some drone batteries with it as well (Since the drone batteries cant charge on USB-C). I was looking at this one (https://www.amazon.com/Portable-RAVPower-27000mAh-Universal-Indicator/dp/B07546KNVC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522210328&sr=8-3&keywords=ravpower+ac) Heres another one that looks alright with a bit less capacity but cheaper in price https://www.amazon.com/omars-24000mAh-Portable-Universal-Smartphones/dp/B073P81Z9V/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522211512&sr=8-3&keywords=omars+AC+Power+Bank%2C
But personally Im going to wait. I dont get my XPS 13 for 3 weeks (Just placed order today and they gave me a 3 week wait :| ). and Ill probably use it for a couple weeks before I decided how big a spare battery I need for my needs. Hopefully by then Anker will come out with their 2018 line of powerbanks and they will support 45W.
Buy one of these
It's the same sized battery as the one in the bag and comes with adapters for a wide variety of laptops, they have one available for Apple laptops as well but it doesn't come in the package. And you get the added bonus of not having to go through an AC->DC->AC conversion.
I do agree the dock is expensive.
FWIW, however, Dell charges about the same (normally priced). Once you include mechanics, durability and quality control it's relatively the same. I'm pretty curious to know if something like this would work for a secondary TV. It's an Nvidia GPU, so I assume so. But it's Nintendo so I assume not.
The Joy-Cons seem to be about the price of buying 2 Wii-remotes and rechargeable batteries. You're just kinda stuck buying 2 because 1 is sort of awkward.
The Anker 24W charger plug makes a huge difference to cutting down charging times. I would highly recommend that.
At 100v and 0.5 A it is “low power” for a CPAP but still drawing 50W.
This is likely not doable. Given the draw rate you would need to carry a massive Battery for even over night rather than the little USB power bank your thinking of.
Something like this would last only about an hour and a half.
This would get you maybe 10 hours but weighs 12.5 lbs.
What you are doing is dangerous, I strongly recommend you just throw that dongle away.
You CANNOT go from USB Type-C to any other type of port with a dongle. That is explicitly forbidden by the USB spec for good reason, as USB C can supply such high amounts of charge, converting blindly to other ports can cause fires.
The short answer to your problem, is you're going to need to buy a USB Type-C to mini/micro USB cable, and not a dongle. The cable will know it's only a mini/micro port and be incapable of charging at the full USB Type-C speeds, but it will charge your speaker properly.
The dongle you own is trying to trick the USB C cable into working with a different type of port, which is why it could be very dangerous because the USB cable itself doesn't know what type of charge to properly send.
If you want to use a dongle, you have to go the other direction, with micro/mini to USB C, which will then limit USB C to the slow charge speed that the cable can actually handle.
EDIT: Just to note, since your pictures are very vague. If that Samsung charger does not have a detachable cable, you'll also need a different charger, where the USB C cable is detachable.
Here are some suggestions to get you down to just a single charger and 1/2 cables:
Chargers:
Cables:
As a final note, you can also find dongles similar to what you have already, but they need to be the opposite of what you have. The dongle should always have the male part as USB Type-C, with the female part being Mini or Micro, such as this dongle. Just be aware whenever you do that, you're giving up some potential charging speed, as you're then limited to the older cable's specs. For example, that Samsung charger you have might be around 18w if it came with a phone or 30w if it came with a Chromebook, but if you charge with a micro cable, it would be limited to somewhere between 5-15w.
8 months ago, I got the following. It's basically a Tiki on the cheap.
Silverstone Tek Mini-ITX Computer Case with PCI-E Riser ML07B
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8CIZYS
Silverstone Tek NT06-PRO CPU Cooler
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A460TJ2
Silverstone Tek 450-Watts SFX PSU
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VQ2Y4K
Silverstone Tek Flat Flexible Modular PSU Cables
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7Y3I4M
Panasonic UJ-265 Slim 6X Blu-ray Writer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFXZ9VA
Silverstone Tek Ultra Low-Profile SATA (CP11)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GSQ3KT8
To that, I added this: "i7-4790K", "Crucial Ballistix 2x8GB DDR3 1600 CAS 8-8-8-24 Low Profile", "Crucial M550 512GB M.2 SSD CT512M550SSD4", "ASUS Z97I-PLUS", and a pair of "Scythe Slip Stream SY1212SL12M 120mm fans". And, a 780ti graphics card.
Of course, now, the 980 is out.
Anyway, it's a nice and fast machine that you can easily carry single handed. Just got fed up with the limits of laptops. Very quiet, too.
For most everything, I got on sale (lightning deals, etc.). Some for less than half what they are now charging. But, it pays to not be impulsive. Only the CPU is cheaper now than it was.
And every thing I've thrown at it is completely fluid. It's awesome to have something that runs UE4 like a REAL dev environment should run.
*edit: I just looked at amazons page for the case. Picture doesn't do it justice. The thing is SMALL, and is very high quality materials. Have a look for it on google images: Silvestone ML07B
Did some research and found the poweradd pilot pro is compatible with the bmpcc and gives about 12hrs of battery. I made a cable that fits the poweradd dc plug on one end and fits the bmpcc on the other. I velcro the poweradd to my rig's shoulder pad and go - http://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-Pilot-Pro-Multi-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B00DN0KBXU
My primary CPAP machine is a Respironics System One Series 60. It is a modular design, so for travel or camping, I would detach the humidifier and power it off a portable battery (I bought a paperback-sized battery like this although I think there are better options available now). That portable battery has a DC output with a variety of power connector tips and configurable voltage. I was able to set it to the voltage of the AC adapter that came with my CPAP machine, and it has enough current output to run the CPAP machine (although not enough to also run the humidifier). I've found I can get 5-6 nights off a fully charged battery, and 3-4 nights if I'm also using the battery pack to charge devices at night (it can run two USB ports and the DC output port).
I've since bought a HDM Z1 travel CPAP machine, which is less comfortable for sleeping (the expiratory relief is a little more abrupt) but a LOT smaller and lighter in my bag. It similarly runs off of that same battery (and has custom made batteries available for it) but I am not sure how many nights it will run.
If you are looking at external battery packs, do be aware that using the wrong pack, wrong voltage, or wrong current may void your warranty, screw up your CPAP machine, or change the pressure output. I have been very careful to match voltages, and have pressure tested my machines on battery power to make sure my therapy pressure wasn't being altered.
Wow, that helped alot thanks.
Looks like this one is the best one for me, and cheaper than I expected: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B016LPMFUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KuTOzb5B8ASX5
I use this guy with no problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00
He says the Innergie charger is safe
Have you thought about using a TB3 to TB2 adapter?
> Regarding Gigabyte's solution: When I buy a Thunderbolt 2 to USB 3 cable and a USB 3 to USB-C adapter, will the audio interface be able to communicate with the mainboard over the Thunderbolt protocol? Or is this setup incompatible as the protocol will be "lost in translation" from Thunderbolt to USB 3?
Simply won't work.
i expect native thunderbolt 3 video devices to be announced in 3 weeks at NAB show 2017. For now, adapters might work. Startech model here: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Windows-Compatible/dp/B019FPJDQ2
Confirm I've been running my Clarett 8pre with Pro Tools 12 (standard) on a machine I built in late 2017 (originally to be a Hackintosh, but with a strong emphasis on sensible dual-boot. I got OSX working like a breeze including PT and the Clarett. I really do use both OSes, but lately I've actually switched to recording in PT in Windows. Gasp!). There are Windows drivers for the Clarett series. They're technically beta, but in the last six months I've stopped having any problems whatsoever. I used to get occasional crashes and times where the device would start freaking out on me, but that's all stopped when I updated to the most recent Focusrite Beta drivers v2.1.9 (and I was running it with a Thunderbolt 3 adapter which technically wasn't supported until the latest version, so that's probably my fault tbh).
I will say, one caveat...the way Thunderbolt drivers are implemented in Windows in general makes plug-and-play hard to support, and for some reason any time I unplug/power-off the device while in Windows, the PC won't actually detect the thing on startup until I pull out my macbook and do a reset (hard reset, not that you really lose anything, lol). It was annoying, but like I said, it hasn't happened in a long time now. As of several months ago, I feel quite good about the windows support for the my Clarett 8pre.
For your reference, while I wouldn't buy the same motherboard as me (it's a bit old now and you can do better) here's the motherboard I'm using as well as the particular Thunderbolt converter I am using in my Windows 10 setup.
As you shop (if you shop) remember that though USB-C and Thunderbolt 3 share a form factor, they Are NOT the same and your board absolutely MUST have thunderbolt headers. There are boards with Thunderbolt headers but no port (expecting you to plug in a PCI-e card or something for the TB ports) but if your board lacks Thunderbolt headers, plugging in a card with Thunderbolt ports won't magically let you run TB devices.
I haven't had any serious problems recording a gargantuan drumset using a Behringer Ultragain 8pre connected via optical cable, recording usually around 14 tracks simultaneously. The Behringer was a good alternative to the much more expensive Clarett Octopre which has the same preamps as the interface itself. I have had no problems managing all of the channels provided by the Behringer with the same ease and flexibility as the channels provided natively by the device.
Since the last Focusrite driver update (which you can download here on the beta page they buried so far in their site that nobody will ever find it), it's been solid as a rock through. I really do love my Clarett. I use it with PT12, FL Studio, and also just as my primary soundcard, as well as to use my nice condenser as my primary mic for calls/chat. The Air preamps are actually really nice (I prefer to leave that special AIR mode disengaged most of the time except on vocals sometimes, but the preamps themselves are just super clean and delicious). I got mine used off of some nice guy on Reverb, and it was a steal. It's among the two or three best gear purchases I've ever made. If you're willing to technically lean on some now-fairly-stable "beta" software (YMMV, disclaimer, don't come stab me if you have issues) then I think it's a great investment, even on Windows.
What sort of monitors do you have?
If they support PD 1.2 and have a DP out, you could get a Thunderbolt 3 to DisplayPort adaptor and connect one monitor through that, then Daisychain the 2nd monitor to the first. Dell's UXX15h monitors are an example of monitors that are capable of this.
Other than that, you're either going to have to splash out on a Dell TB16 dock, or grab something like this
You need an adapter if you'd like it to be secured by the existing bracket. This will do the job just fine. Silverstone makes another bracket that has the mount lean closer to the front of the node which will give you more room. Lots of node owners just skip the bracket all together and velcro the SFX PSU as far towards the front of the case as they can get it.
I'm using the linked bracket, but I still have enough space to get all my SATA heads in. I specifically shopped for the smallest SATA heads I could find. I also like that my SFX PSU (SF450) gives me more room to route cables as well.
If you are looking for super small, this will work:amazon.com/dp/B07GBYVF4Q
Or the authentic Lenovo is pretty cheap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792LMDQC
By now the article has wisened up:
> Although this Innergie 60C charger on Amazon would seem to contradict that claim.
There's also an international version of the same adapter.
Just eyeballing this charger, it's way too large for what it is. I mean, add together the Innergie and the Atom 1, would that be physically bigger? If not then why a measly 65W charger is this big? I smell a rat. If this would be 90W dual port then yes, absolutely.
You can get name brand 500watt powersupplies routinely on slickdeals for $25 after a mail in rebate if that helps.
Also, Unless your current PSU is terrible, there's a decent chance you can use something like this to power it. Or 6 pin power if you choose a 6 pin power card.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4PCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483482746&sr=1-2&keywords=8+pin+power+adapter
Not ideal at all. Depending on how much power the GPU is drawing, this could damage the PSU. It looks like his PSU isn't decent enough, since it doesn't even have a 8 pin PCIE cable, so I recommend buying a new PSU, if possible. If not possible, this should a better alternative, since it comes with some GPUs:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4PCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG
Edit: still not ideal, but it should be safer indeed
The 8 pin connector is likely an 8 pin EPS connector for the PSU. Unfortunately, your PSU is a low quality unit (as most are that come with a case) and does not appear to have the correct connections to power your GPU. You could buy an adapter like this but this is not ideal. The less cheap but more reliable option would be to buy a higher quality/wattage PSU with enough native connectors such as a Corsair CX500 and similar bronze rated units.
I'm a pretty big fan of running computer power supplies, given that they're all rated, and have proper connectors connect to the wall so it's not sketchy at all. I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m-aMxb3ZCCSFY
And one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V44UNXU/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_h.aMxbHPGDCZ4
Hasn't done me wrong yet. And it's rated to output 36 amps continuously, with 5 volts stand by if you're wanting to ruin a raspberry pi on it. And a property clunking power switch on the back should you want the whole thing de-energized without having to unplug it
This should be the one marketed under the Strider brand in Europe
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-ST45SF-G/dp/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467301599&sr=1-6&keywords=sfx-l
I purchased this GPU, for my mini itx Cooler Master 110 build. The PSU I used was this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-ST45SF-G/dp/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480181399&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+450+sff
One could argue that a standard ATX power supply might allow for better cooling. I think it would in my case since it would have a bigger exhaust fan. This is the SFX power supply I'm looking at--seems legit and has a 3 year warranty.
ASROCK C2750D4I
Hitachi NAS Drives
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAELTAI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Some DDR3 ECC RAM, Should be 1gb of RAM per 1tb of Storage in the NAS, and then Just have a small SSD run FreeNas in the system.
Your 1A power supply would go in to an over current condition and likely shut down. It won't make the lights dimmer or damage them- it just won't work.
A 6A power supply gives you some headroom for a fan.
https://www.amazon.com/Selectec-12-Volt-Power-Supply/dp/B009ZZY28M
Here or here or here via Amazon. Here via Dell.
There are multiple part numbers if you'd like to order used or elsewhere online, and those are: Y90RR / 5X3NX / F0K0N / XM3C3 / 331-2429. You do not necessarily need a new one, but if you're buying used you might want to confirm with the seller that they took care of their system (no overclocking/forced shutdowns, etc).
You're going to need an external power brick. Those power supplies just convert dc-atx and you will also need AC-DC. I will edit in a few minutes with some bricks.
Edit: Pico psu 160w + brick combo:
http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-160-XT-192W-Adapter-Power-Kit
(you can buy the brick separately too)
For the 300w hdplex:
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Replacement-Alienware-AM18X-6732BAA-compatible/dp/B00CGA5JQM
Honestly I don't know since I've not used it.
To the best of my understanding you do not need the internal ac-dc adapter, but if you don't buy that you will need to buy a power brick to power it. Here is a video about the older 300w model, and another one from Josh - the creator of the S4 Mini.
Alternatively you can look into the g-unique
I have something like this and this
The batteries can natively output 12V DC and It comes with adapters and will plug into the z1 battery shell and charge the official battery. (The z1 battery shell takes 12V as input). It charges slowly, but it works. One thing to note is that I believe that when in charging mode, it will try and use the LI-ION power source first, before it uses up the official battery. Unfortunately, what happens sometimes is that when in use it will draw more current than the Li-Ion battery can handle and shut down. So it's important to charge the official battery during the day, than unplug the Li-ION battery before you use the z1 auto cpap so that it is powered by the official battery. Also make sure you turn off other power sucks like Bluetooth.
YMMV this is obviously a jury rigged system, so I take no liability if you break your CPAP.
Wow, rocketry! That sounds way cool!
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Touchscreen-Convertible-Professional-Refurbished/dp/B01M4IGXSR/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1482728712&sr=8-12&keywords=refurbished+thinkpad
Pro:
Great keyboard, for a laptop
Good build quality - not cheapo plastic
Screen is brighter than most, this is good for outdoor use
Relates to good build quality: dirt and grit, sand, etc don't penetrate as much.
Comes with Windows 7. Win7 == good. Win10 == bad. Avoid Windows 10 whenever you can.
Touchscreen
Con:
USB 2, no USB 3
Touchscreen
Slightly on the heavy side, some might say. But then, I tote around HP 6600 and HP zBook, so weight is relative.
About Touchscreen - could be pro or con, depending on your preferences and use case.
Don't know about battery life, every laptop I have ever used comes up short on battery life. The manufacturers make advertised battery life claims that never live up to real life usage. I use
https://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-Pilot-Pro-32000mAh-Multi-Voltage/dp/B00DN0KBXU/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482730399&sr=1-9&keywords=poweradd+battery+pack
Kind of expensive, and also surprisingly heavy, but really works well. Great for use in the Great Outdoors, where power plug-ins are scarce. Comes with a pretty good set of plug-in adapters, and will output at several different voltages. Also powers your cell phone, tracking antenna, might even be able to recharge your All Terrain Rocket Recovery Vehicle.
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wired.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Fimages_blogs%2Fdesign%2F2012%2F08%2Fcuriostyrover.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wired.com%2F2012%2F08%2Fdesigning-the-curiosity-mars-rover%2F&docid=NkuNp1QoXG-yqM&tbnid=e9ydDqUM77ytYM%3A&vet=1&w=660&h=530&bih=640&biw=1280&q=mars%20rover&ved=0ahUKEwi5yp7ZlpHRAhUm0YMKHV71CEEQMwh-KBAwEA&iact=mrc&uact=8
I have always had good luck buying re-furbs from Amazon. Laptops, I mean. I haven't been able to find a refurb Rocket Recovery Vehicle on Amazon.
What? Do you mean that the battery pack does not use USB-C to charge itself? Or do you mean the battery pack uses a surface type connector to charge the Go?
You could get something like this battery pack and a 3rd party surface connector-to-barrel connector dongle: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN0KBXU/
I use this same pack with a USB-C dongle to charge my Go. It uses a barrel connector to charge.
I can't pretend to know anything about SFX PSUs, but this is a 600W Silverstone SFX PSU that's also Gold and Fully Modular (like the one in the OP), for just $4 more pre-rebate and another $11 cheaper after rebate: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-SX600-G/dp/B00MO675S8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469648168
Edit: clarified rebate and that the PSU in the OP also is gold and fully modular.
Edit 2: It sounds like those who do actually know find the SF600 to be a much better buy, see comments below.
I bought a DA200. I love it. $50 today on Amazon.
The only issue I had is the power to the USB type C would cut out after a few min when on Wifi. For some reason the Wifi power effects the USB type C port. I set the power to %50 to be safe (I've heard %75 works but I don't need it) and now 0 issues. I spent too much time trying to figure it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2
I use this Dell adapter.
Dell Adapter, USB Type C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB (470-ABQN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_P-2FzbPN3Y5VT
Or just use the amazon basics USB3 to gigabit if you don’t want to pay a high price for the thunderbolt license.
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_J.2Fzb6B7HBM1
I have this HDMI-only adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X4S5C7G
and this Dell adapter with HDMI & Ethernet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012DT6KW2
Both work fine with my XPS-13 9350.
Given that the above HDMI-only adapter works well, this HDMI & Ethernet adapter from the same vendor would probably be good (it's cheaper than the Dell):
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01M0K0DL2
Dell sells this one with a VGA port, Ethernet, HDMI, and USB A, but at triple the cost of the one you picked out. I'd say the one you found looks sufficient, but this one may be able to serve more purposes. In general Amazon Basics products are supposed to be pretty good.
Here are some options that I was able to find:
Contains following ports >> 3x USB 3.0, HDMI Output and SD Card Reader.
Contains following ports >> 2x USB 3.0, HDMI 4K Output, SD Card Reader
If you are in need of the ethernet port with your hub, it's best that to dedicate another slot (hoping you have 4 lightning ports with your laptop) and another adapter dedicated to the ethernet.
I use this Anker Power Port to charge all my electronics but if you don't need to charge much you can get a cheaper Anker Wall Charger.
You know whats stupid, Drift cameras have charging problems when you don't charge from the mains. Thier CS advise you to charge from the mains yet they don't provide a mains charger.
I don't know where you're from, but the UK market has this great dual fast charger socket from Anker. Hopefully you can find your regional equivalent.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B016LPMFUA
Combine with a couple of Anker cables and I think you'd be good to go.
Disclaimer: I don't work for Anker.
"If something seems too good to be true, it is."
You ask how they're printing the boxes/etc for £6.50 per unit, but let's look at it the other way. Where are they buying official Apple products, reselling them, and making a profit for £6.50? They're not.
They're counterfit products. Admiteddly well-packaged ones, but fakes nonetheless. If you value your electronics (not to mention the fire risk!) then stop using them, and buy something from a reputable brand.
You don't even have to spend the cash for official Apple products (personally I don't, they're far too expensive for what they are). Brands such as Anker/Amazon essentials/etc make great quality products for only a little more than you're paying for your fake plug here.
Here's a dual 2.4 Amp charger from Anker, for example. A whole £2 more to get something of decent quality. It's cheaper in fact, if you need more than one of your charger, as this has two outlets.
That 40w one you linked is 40w across all of the ports. (Again, if the FCC filing is correct-) The Switch needs a single 39W connection, which requires USB-PD. That means the charger itself actively negotiates power needs with the device, and needs to apply variable voltage in the charger. The closest equivalent is the Innergie 45w USB-PD charger at $60:
https://smile.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00
And with USB-C there are a ton of suspect and very dangerous chargers built by manufacturers who can't figure out how to follow the specification properly. This could result in damaged hardware or worse (fire hazards).
Thanks for the review OP! Wish you had the one from one from the 5x and this one tested as well, I kept seeing the later charger in the store and wonder if it's any good since it's kind of pricey too.
So a few days ago I took a shot at trying a few of the 'cheap' $30 shoulder bags on Amazon. I ordered a bunch and this was the one that remained after a few hours of testing all of them. It holds absolutely everything despite being such a small bag (13.9" Height, 10.5" Width, 4.1" Depth). The pockets make the most sense when compared to competitors. Here is my carry list with some updates that show its full versatility (especially as a personal item when flying). Also, bag link here.
Edit: Also the water bottle holder holds either my Oakley or Ray-Ban sunglasses.
There's nothing really.
Read the top post here. The guy did some serious research and upvote him for it :) https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/3rrs8x/usb_typec_charging_xps_13_9350/
This charger on Amazon has been confirmed by redditors to work: https://tinyurl.com/mayjxya
Lowest price on Amazon has been $30 . Sometimes drops to $45
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188PAD00/ref=asc_df_B0188PAD004978655?smid=ALYC2INPHZWA1&tag=shopz0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_mp_1173-20;14947336560795953765210080302008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0188PAD00
I would say stick with Dell's plug adaptor. Seeing that white cord with my beautiful black Dell would drive me NUTS.
The Razer ones appear to have a pretty high failure rate, a friend of mine had 2 die the second one just outside of a year and Razer refused to replace. Really shit unfortunately so I'd recommend buying another brand charger.
It has some odd voltage requirements so make sure you find one that matches exactly, I tried my Chromebook one with a blade and it didn't work.
I'll find the name of the one he ordered and is using and pm you.
Edit: just found it, is this one https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00 I think it's the 20V/2.25A that the blade needs.
A YouTuber "Louie Tran" claims the "Innergie" 45W USB-C charger and the "iVoler" charger both work with the Stealth.
https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00
https://www.amazon.com/iVoler-Charger-Delivery-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01ET7SDXK
Well, you always have USB to fallback on in case of waiting on a fix for thunderbolt.
Here is the Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter
So how do you normally deal with that situation, you could hook every synth up to a mixer, but then you are buying a mixer. Another option is to use a patch bay. Holy crap Patch bays are WAY more complicated than you'd think. But, one way I imagine you could use them is, say you want to use synth 3,5 and 1. Then you just run a small 6 inch cable from 3,5 and 1, to inputs 1 2 and 3 (which are routed in the back to your interface. That way you only spend $100 or $200 (for 2 patch bays), rather than $1000 on a good mixer.
The mobo you are looking at is good. It's certified and the TB3 port is built in rather than an AIC. I'd recommend that route since the AIC cards have been problematic.
The only thing I'm worried about, is if converting from TB3 to TB2 causes an issue that needs a driver update, but you always have the USB fallback in case that happens and you need to contact support. Another reason to buy something newer, rather than something 15 years old like you were talking about.
So yeah, just find a solution for selecting your synths and your golden.
You cannot buy an adapter that's USB, it needs to talk Thunderbolt. You need this. I've bought two of them and there's no software, it's just plug and play (I only have TB2 gear because not much TB3 stuff out there yet).
The reason you can't find TB2 mainboards are because "it's not the newest tech". The good news is that you'll be future proofed while enjoying the Motu.
Ninja Edit: Yeah so apparently it can push all the data via USB2. So Thunderbolt is, essentially, a gimmick.
My new machines have Thunderbolt 3 which uses a USB C connector, so I also needed this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019FPJDQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468362137&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+c+thunderbolt&dpPl=1&dpID=41AA2YUFRKL&ref=plSrch
These adapters are supposed to be able to support dual 4k:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Monitor-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE/
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supports-4096x2160/dp/B01F81EIBC/
Also, StarTech has a dock coming out in a couple of months but otherwise have not seen any docks that support dual 4k.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAAU4WS
For the cost of $16.99 (USB C to DisplayPort Cable) I am willing to try it... Certainly cheaper than TB3 to 2 x HDMI adapter, which is +$100: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE
Your laptop supports HDMI 2.0 but I don't know if 2.0 can push enough bandwidth for 1440p @ 144Hz.
However, your laptop's USB-C port is actually a Thunderbolt 3 port! So you can definitely make some headway there, although you'll need a Thunderbolt 3/DisplayPort adapter like this one.
I'm considering the same setup and I've done some research into adapters. Thunderbolt 3 docks are really expensive, especially the ones with 2 display ports + others. My plan so far is to buy a dual display adapter for the thunderbolt 3 port and a 4 port usb hub for the usb A port for keyboard mouse, + external storage.
Best deal I can find on external dual display adapter:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ANR4CYE&pd_rd_r=BDYFP0ZHMCVN6WBQPQ2W&pd_rd_w=8AyUa&pd_rd_wg=rmZFb&psc=1&refRID=BDYFP0ZHMCVN6WBQPQ2W
Yes, it works.
I have also used this successfully with my X1c 5th gen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANR4CYE/
I found one online that I heard works Good https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-TB32HD2-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01ANR5AJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468357050&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=thunderbolt+3+to+hdmi&psc=1
Do they make HDMI hubs? I've heard of DisplayPort hubs but not HDMI ones. I'm pretty sure you can adapt the Thunderbolt 3 port with one of these to get two HDMIs then use the one built into the laptop for a 3rd.
As for the heat, here's the thing. The HDMI port built onto the laptop is directly connected to the GPU. Usually the Blade can put the GPU to sleep when you are browsing regularly to cool it down and consume less power. Once you plug that HDMI in it will keep the GPU awake and always idling. As for how much it will effect temperatures I don't really know. If you can get away with just two monitors from the Thunderbolt 3 port that would be your best bet to keep the GPU asleep when it isn't needed. Performance wouldn't be affected since screens are pretty easy to drive.
For what it’s worth, you can buy SFX-to-ATX PSU bracket adapters for like $5-10 online.
Here is a link to the first one I found on google. I didn’t look at any of the reviews...but it’s a piece of metal with holes drilled into it, how bad can it be?
Built an SG13/2700X/2080 back in March and I absolutely love it. Here are a few suggestions from my experience:
Bonus: Buy the pink version of the case to assert your dominance in a field of monochrome cases.
Here is my build:
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $280.00
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H80i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | Purchased For $85.00
Motherboard | Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $120.00
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $175.00
Storage | ADATA - XPG SX8200 960 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $153.00
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | Purchased For $710.00
Power Supply | Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $150.00
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A9x14 29.72 CFM 92 mm Fan | Purchased For $16.00
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | Purchased For $30.00
Custom | Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter | Purchased For $13.00
Custom | SilverStone Technology SFX to ATX Power Supply Adapter in Black PP08B-USA | Purchased For $10.00
Custom | SilverStone Technology Ultra Small Form Factor Computer Case Mini-ITX in Pink SG13P | Purchased For $62.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1804.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-12 11:28 EDT-0400 |
Edit: Had to update my PCPartPicker build.
No, it won't fit as SFX uses a different mounting standard (150mm x 86mm x 140mm vs 125mm x 63.5mm x 100mm). You can get a bracket that converts SFX to ATX, but you'd probably be better off returning it and getting something else. The SF600 is typically more expensive than your average PSU (as you're paying for the smaller size), you can get a better ATX PSU for less.
>a suggestion or just an example
Both, what do you think?
If you have a preference for Corsair power supplies, I can change to one. They do not include an adapter plate on the 80+ Gold supplies, only on the 80+ Platinum. The ATX-to-SFX adapter plates that are sold separately are better, as they let you put the power supply off center in the space.
SFX adapter plate at Frys: https://www.frys.com/product/8809452
SFX adapter plate at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYB33J8
List with Corsair SFX power supply: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fdjdn7
Edit: see below about fan size
Edit: looking at your list
Ryzen-3000 might not work with your X470 without a upgrade. The 512 GB Intel 660p is a fine drive, but the 1 TB HP920 is faster. I moved to the larger SSD as it will be faster and let you install more games at once.
Anandtech: SSD 2018 Benchmarks, 660p vs HP920
YouTube Linus: How SSD Technology Keeps Getting WORSE! - Intel 660p Review
Yes. Pretty close to the same placement. About the same height and maybe like a half inch to the right. Also includes lower support shelf and airflow. Literally $11. Not really worth the effort to design and 3d print one.
I have a nano-s myself, that I put together about a year ago.
https://i.imgur.com/7y5XJfn.jpg
Biggest thing I would suggest is a SFF PSU so that you don't choke the video card. Otherwise your PSU will hug really close to the GPU fans. Get the silverstone SFX to ATX mounting plate for some extra ventilation.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
The other option is an AIO type video card, which sounds like it is a little out of the budget.
https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8?sa-no-redirect=1
Z270 chipset does support overclocking, while B250 and H270 chipsets don't
I have the AsRock Z270i Fatal1ty and I undervolt my (delidded) 7700k so I don't produce as much heat, as I don't have the mesh front variant of the case. I liked the Z270i Fatal1ty and Z270i Strix for the Z270 motherboars. If you're not getting a K processor I would go with the H270i Strix over the other options due to the features on it compared to other H270i and B250i boards. If your gaming I would get 3200MHz ram, as it does help in memory dependent games.
The SFX psu gives you more room to work in, and the adapter only cost around $10. I would say go for the extra 20 euro for the 600W psu, as PCPartpicker doesn't account for overclocking and I would rather get a slight overkill then a psu that isn't enough.
With the adapter, I was able to fit the C1 from Cyrorig (however its a bit tight, and would install all the modules and cables before).You're using an AIO, air cooler doesn't apply.I use this fan, however I believe there probably is a better one, whichI'll let a fan expert give a proper recommendation. Since you're using an AIO, I would recommend a good Static pressure fan (separate) and using the variant of the case that has the mesh.
That depends on which 1050 Ti you get and how long your PSU is. A card with dual fans will be longer and one of the fans will usually be beyond the end of your PSU.
The other option would be to go with an SFX PSU and an ATX-to-SFX adaptor for $10. That would give you a lot of extra space between the PSU and GPU.
You might have to purchase an atx-sfx psu bracket for the case. Here is a really good one: SilverStone Technology Universal ATX to SFX Power Supply Bracket RL-PP08B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fz2Ryb3FY1HWR
Get the offset Silverstone ATX to SFX bracket. It'll help you gain a bit more room.
There are others but often times put the PSU in the center of the bracket, taking away valuable space.
Just to add to the trouble of choosing, I'd throw the Cougar QBX (19.9 L) or the Sharkoon QB One (14.9 L) into the mix. Both are great cases that'll fit your parts perfectly.
For parts, this is what I'd get within your budget:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | £196.00 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | ASRock - B450 GAMING-ITX/AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | £116.94 @ More Computers
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £136.79 @ Aria PC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card | Purchased For £0.00
Power Supply | Silverstone - 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | £80.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £530.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-19 13:11 BST+0100 |
I hope this helps, or at least serves as inspiration :)
In case you need an ATX to SFX bracket for the PSU: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
Also it won't fit in a standard ATX case without an adapter.
Edit - My bad, it already comes with an ATX to SFX adapter.
32G of RAM is overkill. If you get serious about photo/video editing you're going to want an IPS monitor anyway. The QBX comes with one fan (92mm or 80mm, can't recall). You probably only need one more fan on the top, or maybe the front.
The SF600 is going to need an ATX to SFX bracket with the QBX. If you have a Fry's or Microcenter nearby, you can probably pick it up for $6.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/
Silverstone sells one. Silverstone also bundles an adaptor with all their SFX power supplies. Other manufacturers might as well. You should double check with the particular power supply you are buying.
You have to buy it separately unfortunately. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
Gonna need this for the sfx psu in a atx case.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
Build looks good. If you're set on that case though you could change the psu to a normal atx. You can get a evga g2 supernova 650w for the same price and not need an adapter.
Paying a premium for that sfx psu for really no reason.
I think you need an adapter bracket for that case for SFX power supplies.
SilverStone Technology Universal ATX to SFX Power Supply Adapter Bracket in Black Color PP08B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.2XcBbS7892HH
Take a look at the Silverstone SG13-B case, with an ATX to SFX PSU bracket and an SFX Power Supply and see how that suits you. It will allow space for a full-size GPU as well later on down the line.
Are you planning on using the Stock cooler included with the CPU?Edit: The SG13B is about 2/3 the volume of the CM 110 but holds all the same stuff, and looks better imho
Edit edit: NVM noctua cooler lol
Yeah putting an intake on the bottom should mitigate that.
Also I saw this solution one time on youtube, get a small form factor PSU and then get this, it adapts the SFX PSU to standard size (the face plate that is) so it will mount properly, that way the gap between the PSU and the GPU will be a bit bigger therefore allowing it to breathe better.
I don't mean to be obvious, but if the laptop comes with a 65W charger then that it what it needs to charge at full speed. 30W is NOT enough. There are several chargers with 60 or 65W power delivery that come with a USB a charging port as well on Amazon. This one took me 2 minutes to find: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Charger-Delivery-Smartphones/dp/B01MS9CTB7/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525366852&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+charger+65w. I have no idea if it is any good.
I bought the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS9CTB7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works great, rapid charges my phone and charges my computer quickly (but not as fast as the original charger).
Contains three extra USB2.0 ports so you just need to carry one other cable to charge other devices.
Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Omars-24000mAh-Portable-Universal-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V/
Seems like a lot for a little reward though, unless you have another use for it. A small sound effect box may be better.
Any battery pack with a AC outlet would work.
Pair that with the regular ac adapter and youre in business, for however short of time.
There is no power bank that will activate the video out mode on the dock with just a USB-C cable.
I bought an Alienware with this thought in mind but it worked poorly and I returned it. Battery life wasn't amazing for normal use. Graphics card wouldn't run at full power on battery, and it's half power mode or whatever only lasted 2 hours on battery. You needed to use the power adapter to get full graphics performance and both the laptop and power adapter were really large.
The gaming laptops work well if you just want to bring your machine to another location where you plug it in and game. But running off battery is not great.
I think you have 2 options:
You van buy various external batteries on amazon nowadays:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-Omars-24000mAh-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V/
OP could also use the Viltrox with an AC adapter to run on a power bank with an AC outlet like this one. The 24,000 mAh one would probably run a Viltrox for 10 hours, and the 40,200 mAh version would almost certainly well exceed that.
EDIT: Based on reviews, this one would probably be better.
If you're trying to avoid using an extension cord, you would need something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-Omars-24000mAh-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V/
I mean, just for a 60w charger Ravpower has one 30 percent lighter and the classic choice is the Innergie, which is nearly half the weight of your pick.
Instead of the 100g dual port charger, there are a few directions one could go. Two of these saves 20 percent of the weight while giving you two 18w PD ports. If you don't need two 18w ports, you can sub in one of these to save another 10 percent. If you don't really need power delivery (which you really might not, most non-laptops don't pull more than 12w unless the battery is very low) you can just take one of these and save half your weight. Hell, if you really want to make the most of 100g, I'd just take two of these and know that any tablet or phone I have will charge extremely fast and have a backup for my main charger in case of failure.
Both Ravpower and Aukey have longer warranties than Anker, and I've had great experiences dealing with both of them. I don't really think Anker is competitive at all in the lightweight charger landscape.
One question: did you consider charging your devices off your laptop while it's charging?
I use the 65w charger with my Pixel 3 regularly. Handy to only need 1 charger on trips.
I'm considering buying an Innergie 60w to cut down on travel weight even further.
It can charge via USB-C, right?
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-Compatible-PowerDelivery-World-Smallest-Interchangeable/dp/B07GBYVF4Q
If I were you I'd buy the smallest 60W USB-C charger in the world.
Innergie 60C USB-C Adapter-US, Compatible for MacBook Pro, USB-C 60W Laptop Charger with PowerDelivery Technology-USB PD, World-Small and Light Universal Power Adapter with Foldable Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBYVF4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UT9YCbG61FXJF
At home I use a multiport charger, but for travel I find it takes up much less space to use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBYVF4Q/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerPort-Charger-Compact-Foldable/dp/B07H8WJCTF
Some times 2 small chargers can be smaller than one big one.
Ah... TIL!
Anyway the only longshot idea I can come up with is a charger like this one and hope that the 15W port will do what you need with your adapters: Inateck USB C Charger with 2M USB C Cable, 60W PD Charger with Dual USB C Ports Compatible MacBook Pro, Dell XPS, Nintendo Switch and more other Type C Devices CC01001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H59NVSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_enr1Bb95J35PW. Your laptop could charge at 60W rather than 87W with this which is not ideal but workable.
Unfortunately however the item seems temporarily unlisted from Amazon.
I don't see many options with dual usb-c pd ports. this one is on a 2 hour sale
Inateck USB C Charger with 2M USB C Cable, 60W PD Charger with Dual USB C Ports Compatible New MacBook Air13.3", New iPad Pro 11"/12.9",MacBook Pro, Dell XPS,and more other Type C Devices CC01001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H59NVSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s6w7BbHHVQP5W
Inateck USB C Charger
​
I have been using this with good results! 60w PD total with 45w+15w dual output. Should be able to fast charge those devices together I believe!
I prefer this one: Inateck 60W Dual USB C Charger with 6.6ft (2 Meters) USB C Cable, Smart Current Output CC01001, Black, but it does have trouble staying in a wall socket if it's loose. It's the only wall wart that has 2 USB C ports and sustains 45w on one of the ports with two devices connected.
Inateck 60W Dual USB C Charger with 6.6ft (2 Meters) USB C Cable, Smart Current Output CC01001, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H59NVSK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_EUY1Db05QGB2X
I just watched a review of Nintendo switch accessories and this looked very appealing, especially since I also plan on getting a USBC charging Ultrabook
Let me get this straight, your GPU requires 8 pin connector, right? And your PSU only has 6? If so, that means if the GPU requires more power and the PSU cant deliver, the GPU won't perform optimally or might even crash.
Something like this should work to fully power your GPU
You'll need to either get a new power supply or one of these.
Will using a LP4 to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Cable Adapter affect preformance(https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPDV18DSCM4WFAEG3X6E) on a 1070 ti. Thanks
You can use a 6 to 8 pin PCIe adaptor. The 2 extra pins are just sense pins and can be just connected ground.
They also make 4 pin molex to 8 PCIe adaptors, but I've cooked one of those before, so they make me leery. The 4 pin molexes frequently make poor/loose connections as well.
It look like your RX 470 can pull around 160 W tops, so you should be careful your 450W PSU can power everything. Unless you got a bunch of extra crap,
you'll probably be fine(a bit risky).You could try this. Assuming your power supply will handle everything.
It says I'd get it in July..
Is this a good alternative?
There are adapters that either convert a 6 pin to 8 pin or a molex to 8 pin.
6 to 8
Molex to 8 pin
Ok good, and does your Power Supply connector look like the one on the left or the right in this picture? If it looks like the one on the right, then you just need to snap them together and insert it into your RX 480. If it looks like the one on the left then you need to get an adapter like this one or this one. And again, I don't know your Power Supply model but you should double check to make sure it can handle the RX 480 (should be 450w minimum, 500+ recommended)
This will work (although I never recommend converters for the sake of quality and they can be inconsistent with performance) StarTech.com LP4PCIEX8ADP 6-Inch LP4 to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5LCLub0VJAXYM
Hi again, just a quick question would one of these not work http://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372856705&sr=8-2&keywords=8+pin+pcie
Just to troubleshoot the problem?
Oh, so I checked, it has 4 pcies, but 2 of them are 2x4 and 2 of them are 2x3. I need 2x4, and both of them are old pins. I bought this and it just came. Could it work? Its a new pin so it might work... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B006PHXLRG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't understand your network question. If they are in your home, they are most likely on the same network unless other wise specified by the router. Which you would know because you would have set it up that way.
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As for the build, you need a minimum of 8GB of ECC RAM. In addition, depending on how much storage you have you need to increase it accordingly. The rule of thumb is to match 1GB of RAM per 1T of HDD space. So if you have more then 8T of space you'll need to increase the RAM to 16GB. Again this is if you do ZFS, and again, it must be ECC (sometimes called unbuffered) RAM.
Here's and example. Like I said, you'd want to consider the whole build because parts for this type of build are considerably more expensive. This is server grade stuff meant to run day and night for years.
------------------------------------------------
Processor needs to support the ECC feature. There are only a handful processors from intel that do and the cheapest is the Intel Core i3-4130. There are many users at the FreeNAS forums running this CPU and reports no issues with transcoding high bitrate files over their networks with Plex. And it's even got integrated video.
AMD ECC processors are actually more expensive, go figure.
------------------------------------------------
Lastly you need a mother board that also supports, you guessed it lol. Here's a cheap one I found. I'm not sure what your intentions are as far as form factor and expansion plans but this offers 6 SATA connectos for 6 HDDs. And of course you could always add an express card to increase that. Here are other options, Supermicros have a good reputation.
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And that's it. The case you can pick on your own, just make sure it accommodate the mother board you choose. Same goes for the power supply. Like I said ZFS is the bees knees of RAID, it's just more of an investment. but if you value your data, it's an investment worth taking.
I didn't just want to through you a list of parts, I thought you'd like to know the whys behind it so I'm sorry for the essay.
And in case you are curious, here's my FreeNAS.
Intel Xeon E3-1220V3 Overkill tbh, I'd picked that i3 if it was now, plus no video
ASRock E3C224D2I
16GB ECC Kignston
Silverstone ST45SF-G
SanDisk Cruzer Fit 4 GB OS Drive
Seagate NAS 3T x3
LianLi case
With ZFS I get about 5T usable storage.
Negative on those. I did find this but it's the same as the one I picked out but 500w.
I have this
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-ST45SF-G/dp/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491338909&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=450+sfz
Bought it from a smoker like 6 months ago. Was clean but it stunk. Smells better now. Been using it in my test bench. Only comes with 24pin, 8pin cpu and sata cable. However my EVGA G2 cables seems to work with it as I tested a gtx 660 with it. So I can include that if needed to power your GPU. PM offer if interested and I can get you pictures
SilverStone Technology 450W SFX modular (ST45SF-G) is a good PSU for small builds. I have it in my HTPC as well as my Ncase M1 gaming build
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VQ2Y4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You don't need more than 400-450W for a modern eGPU, but the PSU needs to be a quality one. I had my eyes on this one because it is small, but eventually I went on with a Dell DA-2 as I was not planning on anything that eats more power than a GTX1060 or so. Any good quality 400-450W PSU will work for you.
Here is a good basis for the power mod. Take this, cut off the 6-pin side. You end up with two molex female connectors and free hanging wires. Connect the yellow wires to the CENTRAL contact (typically, that will be marked as the plus) on the barrel plug's screw terminal. Connect the black wires to the OUTER contact (typically, that is marked as the minus connector). You don't need to use all 4 black wires, two will do just fine. Use the ones right next to the yellow wires. End result, you have an adapter that takes 2 Molex connectors and leads to a barrel plug. As always, check connectivity with a multi-meter to make sure that power will go where you want it to. Now connect the 2 molex to your PSU and the barrel plug to the Akitio.
The final thing you need is some means to power up the PSU without a motherboard. This will do.
I had put together something remarkably similar to this earlier today. I wanted the wireless keyboard, newegg has the 830 for 60 in a refurb. But I wasnt sure about that full size PSU in the mini itx case. So I was looking at this Silverstone Tek 450. It was just too much money, but if you know that thermaltake will hold all that without having to use a blowtorch then I think I am going to rethink my build. Thanks for the input
sfx psu? Yes. I have one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VQ2Y4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Along with the lights and the ESP8266, you would also need some way to power it and the ESP8266. The LED string I chose is 12v, and the ESP8266 is powered by 5V, so you will need a voltage regulator as well. Also, if you choose the lights I linked they probably wouldn't arrive by the time you need them (they are from a Chinese distributor). What is important is that they are individually addressable WS8211 based. I chose those because they look like a classic christmas light string.
This is as far as I've gotten with the project so far. You also need to set up an environment on your computer to compile the custom firmware that will be flashed to the ESP8266.
I'm afraid that really is no packaged solution for this, so if you don't have a lot of experience with electronics or programming, you may find it an uphill battle.
Good luck!
I have had two of those little amplifiers and they can be good but you need a hefty power supply for them. I suggest 12 volts at 5 amps. This one seems to be a good buy.
These amps don't work very will with a little wall lump supply. the speakers shuld get pretty damn loud.
Hope this helps.
power a device that takes a (1.1m? 3.5mm? the normal bigger one) 12v 6amp input
Same thing like this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Power-Supply-Standard/dp/B009ZZY28M
except instead of 100v input AC it needs to be 12v DC (that a car can supply.... i think they go up to 10 amps?)
Well, the basic plug-in a/c adapters are less than 1amp output, which is not enough. I checked for specs on the blower but couldn't find any. I assume it's around 3amps. My power source is rated at 10 amps continuous, but is overkill. 6 amp should be enough. Here's one.
http://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Power-Supply-Standard/dp/B009ZZY28M/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1449196540&sr=8-33&keywords=12v+power+supply
You will need to splice the wires together (fan to supply wires) confirming correct polarity via fan direction.
The one you picked charges at 800mAh, so it'll take nearly 3 hours to charge a 2200mAh battery, and you won't be able to tell what it's doing.
You can get the $20 DC version, if you've got a 12 power supply of some sort, like old PC or laptop power supply. Or you can get 12v DC power supplies designed for the job
The B6 isn't even a 'good' charger, it's a cheap clone of the $50 DC chargers everyone used to use before it came along. It's popular because it's cheap.
You'll have a charger for many years, so while you could manage with a cheap one, you'll end up buying a better one sooner or later.
> It seems like you're pretty high on ring lights. What steered you from standard fluorescents in soft boxes?
In a pinch, I can shoot through the middle of a single ring light and use it as key and fill. I can't do that with a soft box.
> Do both models have a plug available or do I need a battery for the one?
The [$269 Stellar Diva] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MC1QLK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003MC1QLK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) is AC power only. The [$199 F&V (without the soft box)] (http://www.adorama.com/FVR300.html?KBID=66297) can be used either with a [$9 AC to 12V DC adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZZY28M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009ZZY28M&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) or with a [$10 Sony battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
> Do both models come with adapters for the stands?
Yes.
Hope this is helpful!
It really depends on how much you want to spend. If you can afford it, I am a huge fan of the [$199 F&V R-300 Ring light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). You'll also need a [$10 battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (I bought two of these batteries and a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)).
Ring lights give you soft, even lighting from a single light - as seen here:
http://vimeo.com/70211550
http://vimeo.com/71374301
You can also get a [$17 12V adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZZY28M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009ZZY28M&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links] if you need AC power.
If budget permits, you can get two or three ring lights and get the results seen in [this review] (http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html) of the Diva Ring light.
I have both the Diva and the F&V (as seen [here] (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG)), and I prefer the F&V because it is smaller and the AC/DC power options make it more flexible.
Hope this is helpful and Happy New Year!
Here is the mobile version of your link
that's exactly what i use it in. I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CGA5JQM with https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html to power my system.
Lots of people tried the original Xbox it’s not that hard especially with new form factors like micro STX , about the Atari tho I won’t really work but it would work jut drill holes for the air and put something to ride it up like they use in laptops
EDIT:the only problem is that you will need a pick psu and a laptop style power Brick the like this and this they might not be compatible so please do more research other then that you will also need a power button and some front IO if you want it this power button and this is usb 3.0 , have fun with your project m8
This one should work:
Dell 330W Replacement AC Adapter for Dell Alienware x51 Desktop, Alienware M18x M18x R1, R2, R3, AM18X-6732BAA, Alienware M18x-0136 W7HP64 , M18X-0143, 100% compatible with P/N: F0K0N, 331-2429, 320-2269, XM3C3, ADP-330AB B, DA330PM111, CN-0XM3C3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CGA5JQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SzeFxb3BZHFGJ
so something like this for the hdplex?
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Replacement-Alienware-AM18X-6732BAA-compatible/dp/B00CGA5JQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495154546&sr=8-1&keywords=ADP-330AB
That makes a lot of sense actually - about it being cheaper likely because it's coming from China. Amazon it is. Do you know which model on Amazon I should be getting? I could find this, but it doesn't look like the 17 R5 is listed as compatible.
330w - Safe option
Dell 330W AC Adapter with 6 Foot Power Cord (DA330PM111, XM3C3, ADP-330AB B, 5X3NX, 332-1432, Charger, PA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CGA5JQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HdB-Bb454YSZP
240w - $20 cheaper but it might not be authentic Dell / used part due to reciews.
AC adapter 240 Watt Original FWCRC for Alienware Area-51 M17x / M17-R1 / M17X / M17X-R3; Asus G70 / G70S / G70SG; Dell Precision M6400, M6500, M6600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A076OEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9eB-BbY1P9R23
Or just call Dell. The parts department can send you one even if it’s not shown online
Also, your Dell Power brick is way too overpriced. It's $115 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Replacement-Alienware-AM18X-6732BAA-compatible/dp/B00CGA5JQM
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-DA330PM111-ADP-330AB-332-1432/dp/B00CGA5JQM so something like this?
No problem. If you want to upgrade the GPU I would recommend on one that fits the power range of the power brick (Which can be upgraded to the 330 Watt.) This Card fits size wise at 9.5 inches and also for power consumption its less than my GTX 660 that I run in my x51 R1.
They exist, such as
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-DA330PM111-ADP-330AB-332-1432/dp/B00CGA5JQM
The problem is, it's not that simple. You need the correct polarization and "plugger-inner" size.
As far as a site goes, if you find one, let me know.
> well here is the speccy link http://speccy.piriform.com/results/k0KiluwQKIA3Eav0AIXqFbz
> i ran multiple passes of memtest already a few days ago, it found nothing out of the ordinary.
> as for the PSU, its outside my case (im using an old alienware x51 r2, it's supposed to be very compact, so thats why the PSU is outside my case. I modified it by adding a gtx 970 and a SSD.). It's a 330W supply, and I purchased it about 2 years ago, at the same time i upgraded my graphics card. I found a link for it on amazon, here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-DA330PM111-ADP-330AB-332-1432/dp/B00CGA5JQM
Someone else found this out for me below, but I also double checked and he was right, it's this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-DA330PM111-ADP-330AB-332-1432/dp/B00CGA5JQM
How many charges in between electricity access points? Will you be backpacking? Car camping? How long without any electricity access (I know you said week long trips, but how long without access to electricity)?
You will not get a decent charge with a combo battery with a solar panel attached. If you must, I would get a 15000 mAh battery or higher, and make sure it can charge via USB (some higher mAh batteries do NOT charge via USB). Charging a high mAh battery will take a while with most portable/packable solar panels. Like a two days+ of FULL SUN daylight hours.
Might make more sense (cost/weight/efficiency) to just take 2-3 15000 mAh batteries for a weeklong trip.
I have this battery 15000 mAh (charges over USB): http://smile.amazon.com/KMASHI-15000mAh-External-Portable-Powerful/dp/B00JP8MZGK
I also have this beast of a battery (32000 mAh, doesn't charge over USB): http://smile.amazon.com/Poweradd-Pilot-Pro-32000mAh-Multi-Voltage/dp/B00DN0KBXU
I have a 14W portable solar panel/charger. It takes forever to charge the 15000 mAh battery and will not even trickle charge the 32000 mAh.
Check the top review of this product: https://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-Pilot-Pro-Smartphones-Chromebook/dp/B00DN0KBXU
I'm going to be getting one of these myself and trying it out on various settings to see what a full charge can handle. From what I've seen, if you don't use a heated hose or heated humidifier, then it should be good for multiple nights. And it's portable.
Update: this is a more recent unit that seems pretty decent, and is more amp hours than the one I bought about 18 months ago. Here is an even burlier one - one reviewer reports using a Z1 CPAP for 6 nights on one charge.
This panel puts out up to 20v DC, which is what my RavPower battery pack needs to charge, not sure about the other units I linked. If their charging adapters are 12v or 18v there are a lot of other panels out there as well that would work.
A battery pack of some type is probably the best way to go. Generators are noisy and costly to run all night and the power they provide may not be stable/safe enough for a CPAP machine.
Cheapest route is to build your own battery box using a 35ah deep cycle sealed lead/acid (SLA) scooter battery (about 1/3 the size of a car battery). This will run under $110 (plus the DV adapter if needed) and lasts 3-5 nights (no humidifier). It can also be left charging all the time and stay at near 100% capacity as a backup for house power or for flaky power at campsites. (full disclosure: I use this)
Middle route is to get a lithium/ion battery pack in the 30,000-50,000mah range (note: the numbers for "ah" can't be directly compared to other battery types like SLA without conversion). These start at $110 (plus the DV adapter if needed). They last 1-2 nights. Also, these lose 20% of their power every 90 days, which was a dealbreaker for me. Here's 2 popular ones:
The high end solution is to use a lithium/ion battery from the manufacturer of your CPAP. These are slick units with add features but the similar capacities and run times to the "middle route". These start at $500.
Theoretically, you could--battery management computers primarily manage/change/monitor batteries based on their voltage. However, laptop batteries also keep track of the mAh (i.e. capacity) of the cells in order to estimate things like battery health and estimated run time. I'm not sure how Lenovo's batteries are designed or how the BMS in their batteries would react to a sudden increase in capacity.
However, you would likely have to do some serious modding. Custom case for the laptop to fit the new extended cell, custom housing for the battery, you'd have to spot-weld the cells together...dangerous work. Instead, I propose a simpler, less invasive solution.
Replace your battery with the OEM replacement (make sure you're buying from a reputable source, you want only the A-grade cells in your machine for maximum battery life). Then, buy a cheap charger, like this one. You can then cut the charging cable away from that block, and solder/shrink wrap the appropriate tip on the end of that power cable so it would plug in to an external battery pack that supports 20V output, like this one.
In terms of creating a safe, polished finished product, you'll have much better luck with an external battery. And then you have the best of both worlds--power when you need it and portability when you don't.
EDIT: Even easier, just buy this tip in the appropriate size and then you can plug it in to the PowerAdd. I don't know the dimension of the PowerAdd DC barrel, you could measure that after ordering.
A phone charger like that wouldn't be able to charge your laptop because the power delivered over USB is at most 5.25 volts according to the spec but laptops and computers (including the Surface Pro) run at higher voltages, usually 12 volts. There are portable charging devices for laptops such as this one which would be able to charge a laptop by a lot -- that one is a 32000mAh battery which is 9 times the design capacity of the SP3 battery, however, you will see that the number of various laptop charging adapters they provide is limited and none of the Surface Pro 3 adapters are given.
It would be technically possible, if you had a spare Surface Pro charger, to cut off the wire that connects to the Surface and wire it to the battery charger, but that is obviously very dangerous.
I own a PowerAdd 32,000mAh LiPo for my FT-817. Keep in mind it's for a QRP rig, so I won't be drawing more than the rated 4.5A. That being said, it's been awesome for camping/hiking/general portable use!
Although I think the connectors would work, I don't think you'll be able to properly secure that PSU to the case because it is a very odd form factor called flex atx. If you try to put it together with your case in pcpartpicker, it says that they are not compatible.
You can try a SFX psu that comes with a sfx to atx adapter like this one, but it is not modular. A modular sfx psu is probably more expensive that what you wanna spend.
Oops, sorry for forgetting that.
SilverStone 300w SFX
edit: I plan on using this for torrenting as well, just haven't set it up yet. This mobo is unbelievable for it's size, the more you dig into it the cooler it gets.
2x NICs that support teaming, and a third dedicated management NIC just for the mobo.
It's got remote management (using Java, a lot like an iDRAC) so you can see what's on the screen just by hitting the mobo IP and logging in.
If you fear the quad-core isn't enough, there is an identical 8-core model for quite a bit more money. I was trying to keep kind of a budget on this one.
Do you think that this one would work for my build? (I will post the build in the link below as well.)
Proposed PSU: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-BRONZE-ST30SF/dp/B00FA4KP8S
My Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/hannahkap/saved/#view=ttr2FT
Cheaper PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Factor-Supply-ST30SF/dp/B00FA4KP8S/
SilverStone Technology 300W SFX Form Factor 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply with +12V Single Rail, Active PFC (ST30SF) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA4KP8S/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_uhBVDb6V6T3A1
I found a Silverstone 300w sfx for 29€ used, I wonder if it would be any better than the tacens, it has 2x 4pin connectors, but I won't be able to return the tacens psu...
Psu wont work with that case. I don't know why partpicker didn't flag it, but you need an sfx psu for a case that size.
SilverStone has a 300w for $50 and a 450w for $58.
Ended up basically buying this computer, except got this motherboard since I might need WiFi we ever move the router:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY5KXW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And bought this PSU instead since I hate dealing with mail-in rebates:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FA4KP8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks so much for your help! And if it ends up being notably slow at any point I'll throw in another 4 GB of RAM.
You're right. I had just chosen the only platinum-certified PSU compatible with the Node 202 without thinking to compare it to the SX-600G. It's quite a bit bigger...
I'd considered RAID for the SSDs, but it was a fleeting thought. m.2 will probably be my go to. Thank you!
Silverstone's modular SFX power supplies already come with the shorter cables, no need to purchase them separately.
Also, it looks like the 600w version is listed on Amazon now, but not available for a few more weeks.
I'd be interested in the PSU if you're willing to knock a bit off. They're going for $84 after rebate on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-SX600-G/dp/B00MO675S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474322290&sr=8-1&keywords=sx600g
Could also use an SFX power supply like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-Modular-SX600-G/dp/B00MO675S8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1493920710&sr=8-8&keywords=sfx+power+supply
600W would be overkill I'm thinking, but that would slim down the box size, they come in lower wattages and cost, and SFX is a standard Power supply size so replacement later if it goes will not be an issue. You could also go all the way up to 800W and install a GTX 1080 ti if you really wanted to and make this a full on gaming beast if you wanted, but that would be silly. But, hey, there's no Kill Like Overkill.
Any SFX power supply will do. Here are some:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817338105
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Modular-Active-SX600-G/dp/B00MO675S8
If you want to upgrade the psu to 600W for $15 more, you can get this one:
600W
You need to price match newegg with Amazon's price, then fill the $15 MIR. It will bring the price from $123 to $108. Just some options if you want to upgrade.
Edit: No need to use price match. It has a rebate on Amazon to bring it to $108.
I already ordered this PSU. Seems like a decent price for this wattage, efficiency, and form factor. ATX PSU's are much more competitively priced, but whatevs.
Its pretty much impossible to beat this Silverstone. Its tiny. Its powerful. It's quiet. Its Gold Rated. Its fully modular. (Edit: It also comes with an ATX adapter so it'll fit in any case.)
I use it. It definitely gave me plenty of free space to arrange cables.
Ha! My build is essentially the same, but I used the ITX Geforce 970. I have an OC of 4.2 Ghz with a Corsair Hydro water cooler. I can't remember the model offhand. I've also got 2 80 MM fans in the back and a 200 MM fan in front. I'm using a SilverStone 600 W PSU, which you can see here.
I haven't had any problems with power or performance with that PSU. Best of all, this PSU allows for a smaller case since it's modular and use the SFX form factor. I know Amazon also carries flat cables for this PSU.
What do you think of this board?
http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VII_IMPACT/
I love the configuration and discrete audio. Also for psu:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MO675S8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_1?colid=3NE04CHC2LEIA&coliid=I5JJSWRNTMZWO
It's modular, and the dimensions are perfect, with plenty of power incase I need it later.
I've got a lightly used in mint condition, Silverstone SFX-L 500W Full Modular GOLD PSU Link. Works perfectly, quiet and comes in OG box with original cables. Delivered IN PERSON to your door in Brooklyn for only $75. I'll also throw in a FREE Silversone PWM Fan Splitter that's sealed.
I would have gone with the ML08 but I couldn't find one on Amazon at the time. Glad I didn't though, means less footprint in the case for a handle and with this case, don't really need a handle.
Using this for the PSU: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Modular-Lengthened-SX500-LG/dp/B00SD9IORQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02
Using some $10 low profile CPU cooler I found at Frys (I was doing a case swap and didn't realize the parts I had were far too big, so I took an emergency trip to Frys as I was building this for a demo I had the next day). Literally any decent low profile CPU cooler would work better than the one I'm using.
~60C on CPU at full load, ~85C 980TI on full load, if case is running laid horizontally with nothing on top of it.
Pelican 1640 on Amazon, came with foam. Was ~$270. In hind sight I'd probably go with the bulkier and heavier 1660 just so I can squeeze a few more things in nicely, instead of piling a bunch of small bits on top of the monitor.
I know the difference between the two, here's my PSU: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Modular-Lengthened-SX500-LG/dp/B00SD9IORQ
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-SX1550-Supply-SX550/dp/B00SD9IORQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174469&sr=8-1&keywords=550w%2Bsfx&th=1
Hmm, well that rules out compatibility mode on pcpartpicker, they only use aftermarket items. I would recommend Silverstone, they make a lot of PSUs for SFF builds. The 500w SX500-LG will fit under your dimension at 125 mm (W) × 63.5 mm (H) × 130 mm (D). Problem is they're about $100. Best thing IMO would be to buy a cheaper "normal" 500w PSU and a new case. Which would be about $55 after rebate. I've included a cheap case, PSU, and GPU far better than the 750ti in the list. You could get this for about $210 after rebate.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 380 2GB PCS+ Video Card | $153.98 @ Newegg
Case | Raidmax ATX-402WB ATX Mid Tower Case | $19.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ NCIX US
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $253.96
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $208.96
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-23 03:40 EDT-0400 |
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Modular-Lengthened-SX500-LG/dp/B00SD9IORQ
Opps my apologies: Silverstone | Supernova
i'm going to use a i7-4690K and a MSI Radeon R9 290 and plan on doing some overclocking down the line (mini-itx build btw)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SD9IORQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used but like-new condition with all original packaging
I have this if you are interested.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SD9IORQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Anyone have any experiences on a SilverStone PSU? I'm planning to get this one SilverStone SFX-L PSU and trying to fit it in a mini itx case (link below). 500W is all I really need since I'm not planning on OCing. Do you guys have any other recommendations on a good small PSU?
SilverStone Case
I mean, accessory prices suck obviously. I think they ARE overpriced, but they may not be way way overpriced. Here is an example of something similar to the dock. This also doesn't come with an hdmi cable or extra AC adapter.
Dell Adapter, USB Type C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB (470-ABQN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wJnFyb8K33JYF
No, it has a few USB ports, power and a headphone jack. I purchased this to give it an ethernet and video output jacks: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464808947&sr=8-1&keywords=da200
So, it is possible that the da200 is the problem, because it has an HDMI jack and doesn't have a DisplayPort jack.
I think it depends on how you intend to use your computer, as in will it be used at a desk or on the go. Here is an adapter that has both connectors.
Dell Adapter seems like it might fit your needs. 54 USD on Amazon.
Not sure about whether that power bank will work or not. There are official ones from Dell also, but I haven't really heard much about them.
I got this since I really needed VGA and HDMI... it has worked flawlessly so far:
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483397157&sr=8-1&keywords=dell+usb+c+adapter
Ah, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495436643&sr=8-3&keywords=dell+usb-c+adapter
Yeah, even USB C hubs are expensive. I have this Dell one that I just use for travel. Works well with my MacBook Pro.
Dell Adapter, USB Type C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB (470-ABQN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RR4dzb80MCRVY
I didn't even realize that the power adapter was out of stock and so hard to find. I did happen to find it at MicroCenter, though.
I would try the Dell travel adapter. It has USB, VGA, HDMI, and Ethernet ports. I haven't personally tested it, but I do have one lying around here somewhere. I could test it out if you would like.
The best one I know of is the
Dell Inspiron 15-7559Dell's USB-C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB.They also make one wiuth more I/O and enough power to charge your device while connected.
What about this and a VGA to HDMI adapter?
Hey,
The Aukey one you mentioned is really nice. Dell also makes one thats nice and compact - https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503069195&sr=1-9&keywords=USB+C+VGA+Hub - Cable Creation has another one thats larger and not so travel friendly but offers tons of ports - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Thunderbolt-Multiport-DisplayPort-Ethernet/dp/B01MFC2KM2/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503069195&sr=1-16&keywords=USB+C+VGA+Hub - Enjoy your new Mac!!
I use a Dell DA200 Adapter with my XPS 15 and I've been satisfied with it so far. Has HDMI, VGA, usb, and Ethernet. Can't charge my laptop but at $47 on Amazon it's not too expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-DA200-Adapter-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2
This adapter
This controller
Works with any of the GTAs I have (all of them in Play Store -- I'm a sucker for GTA < 4). Also allows you to navigate on the home screen of the Nexus 6p/9 and Pixel phone.
Something like this should work too.
Although more on the expensive side (also has ethernet, vga and usb type a 3.0) the Dell DA200 is a very nice adapter.
I'm using it on the 9360 and I haven't had the slightest issues at all. Works perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482876183&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=da200
I can confirm the Dell DA200 adapter gave me HDMI video out and USB input at the same time. Came in real handy when we destroyed the screen and I needed to get my slow-mo video off the phone... Was able to use a monitor and a mouse. Didn't try the VGA or Ethernet tho.
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2
A Belkin USB-C to HDMI adapter I tried also worked.
[That one has all three] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012DT6KW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464809284&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Thunderbolt+vga+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31MqG-cX7SL&amp;ref=plSrch) but with a useless extra ethernet
Haven't found any that with well as a dock. The HooToo for example doesnt pass through 87w for power and due some USB devices you need to replug them after connecting.
Also note none that I know do 4k @ 60hz yet.
As a travel adapter this is my favorite though and works awesome, super tiny:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012DT6KW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487755006&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=dell+type+c&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31MqG-cX7SL&amp;ref=plSrch
Believe it or not but Dell makes an awesome travel dock that adds HDMI, VGA, Ethernet, and USB3 ports. I use it all the time and love it.
God only knows what your problem is. Get yourself one of these and two of these and you're sorted
Sure. Not sure what the amp output is of an Apple charger but it'll work. I use one of these
The standard iPhone charger is 110-230v. Just buy a 2 to 3 pin adapter, plug your charger into that and plug it into the wall.
You could also wait till you get here, buy a 3 pin USB wall charger and plug your phone into that, it'll do that same job - I've got a few of these for various things around the house and they work fine. You can buy Anker stuff on the US Amazon site too, it's good quality stuff. I only buy their cables and wall chargers now as they're cheap and bulletproof.
Either way the phone doesn't care what you plug it into. I've charged my iPhone in the US, Canada, Belgium, France... all you need is the correct plug shape and in the case of the US/Canada making sure the charger can take the voltage.
I have a fairly generic charging station which I feed with an Anker USB supply and that works nicely to charge the Moves (as it uses the exposed contacts for drop-in charging, rather than the USB port).
It also comes with two little widgets which go in the micro-usb ports of DS4s to convert those to drop-in charging too. All works great. The only thing I need to charge otherwise is the Aim controller, which seems to be happy with generic micro-usb fed directly from that Anker usb supply.
I checked and they didn't have it. It really does need to be this specific cable:
http://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00
Unfortunately, you need to be a citizen and have citizen id to have it shipped here. Hm.
Or, hm, any 45 watt type c laptop charger will do, I think.
EDIT: Ordered one from Amazon, they dropped the price to $40. Should be here in a few days.
I've been looking to buy one for my XPS 13 and phone. The PowerGear 45W charger from Innergie seems to be the ticket. It can go up to 20V and ~2.1A. It's even shaped like the OEM Dell charger!
http://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
sure thing...its not cheap though!
https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
You can find it a little cheaper on amazon warehouse though. There is another one...but reviews show that it doesn't work with the dell xps, but does for the acer switch...
https://www.amazon.com/Targus-Type-C-Laptop-Charger-APA93US/dp/B01BYKIYUW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Alternatively, I know people are also saying that the apple MacBook usb-c chargers should also work on those likely spec'd units.
No, that will def work, is it USB C?
I have this one.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/dp/B0188PAD00/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478480149&amp;sr=8-1
to charge Dell XPS 13, Nexus 5x and Pixel. It's a great charger.
Is there anything like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188PAD00 for the UK market, other than the Google Pixel charger and official Dell one?
I didn't read the reviews enough before I bought it on amazon, this person had the same experience as me
http://www.amazon.com/Innergie-PowerGear-USB-C-45-Adapter/product-reviews/B0188PAD00/ref=cm_cr_dp_synop?ie=UTF8&amp;showViewpoints=0&amp;sortBy=recent#R3SVY8CJUYZ36Q
EVERYONE. I HAVE GREAT NEWS. I HAVE FOUND A WORKAROUND/SOLUTION FOR MY XPS13 9350 I've had this problem for months now, and it has gotten to the point where it will NEVER charge. It used to just start working eventually, but no longer. I read literally hundreds of posts with potential fixes for this with no luck. I tried new chargers, nothing. Battery is fine. Updated my BIOS. Nothing. Spoke with dell, and they said I need a new motherboard, but they didn't have any so I needed to call back later. Fuck that. I looked for one online...$500+. Also fuck that. Here's the workaround I found: Although it's not actively advertised (for whatever reason), the 9350 supports USB-C charging. I did some research and found a USB-C charger powerful enough for this laptop (at least 45W). Cost me $60 on Amazon. Whatever. Shit works. And it's better thank a $1500 paperweight. Somehow bypasses the charger identification. idk. shits crazy. anyways here's the charger: Innergie PowerGear USB-C 45 45W Laptop Adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188PAD00/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I also purchased a USB-C wall charger (a brick that plugs straight into the wall, but haven't received it yet. Confident it will work. Will update) If you're really out of things to try, front the $60. Next cheapest option. Hope this helps someone!
I've been through two of their charger before buying this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188PAD00/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Haven't had issues since.
Wow, thanks for that super detailed response.
I've found this other display, the Acer H277HU that uses USB-C 3.1. I figure that this port, like Thunderbolt, would be my one cable solution. However, I can't seem to find a TB to TB3/USB-C adapter, or at least one that explicitly works in that direction.
Does it look like that would work? Or am I stuck with a multi-cable set up for the time being unless I splurge for the Apple TB display?
This just started shipping.
You're correct about the speeds.
Apple has one for $50, but it has a 2-star rating with 2 negative reviews. For $25 or so more, this one has many more positive reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Backward-Compatible/dp/B019FPJDQ2
Sounds like you need an adapter as you said yourself.
Something like this. Hopefully you can find something less pricey though.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter-TBT3TBTADAP/dp/B019FPJDQ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454183099&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=thunderbolt+to+usb-c+adapter
Unless you can find a Thunderbolt to USB-C cable
To be hoenst, you might be onto something there....
I ended up with and Apple TB3 -> TB2 adapter (milti use for my rig, and with work) and reviews seem to be people plagued with quite a lot of problems.
I really don't want it to be the case (not SO much wasted money as it has it's use, but annoying).
Annoyingly, they're not too common would you believe....
My other option I think will end up being something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-DisplayPort-Black/dp/B019FPJDQ2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=TB3+to+TB2+adapter&qid=1571664331&sr=8-2
First off: I do/did also have the reboot problem.
Yesterday I set the "fix shutdown" flag in Clover Configurator and I haven't experienced it since. Might be a coincidence but worth a try.
I use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Windows-USB-C/dp/B019FPJDQ2
followed by https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-to-Firewire-Adapter/dp/B00SQ2CJUS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480157850&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=thunderbolt+to+firewire
The connection appears to be stable so far. Sometimes it doesn't connect on startup, unplugging the thunderbolt adapter and plugging it in again usually works. Or a reboot.
It annoys me a little bit, but I haven't gotten around to really get to the bottom of it.
I'm curious, which firewire card are you using? How is your overall experience with it?
EDIT: Copy and paste is hard.
I had initially emailed UA about compatibility with the GS65, and he said he'd be surprised if it wasn't plug and play...Wish I could say that were the case for me, though!
My problem was that I was getting "No Devices Found" when opening the UAD software. And after many hours of troubleshooting, I was finally able to get it to work. If you (or anyone else who finds this thread) runs into any issues, here's what I did:
This was driving me fucking insane, so I hope this helps someone, lol.
There are alot of adapters available.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Monitor-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE
Found that one on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it would work.
LOL they dont even know how to set to default a synapse profile for my keyboard, i dont know how they could answer my questions about PCIe lanes and specific thunderbolt 3 questions.
I could give it a try, but no big hopes.
i understand that the blade uses the latest tb3 version, but if you take a look at these 2 links here, and you scroll down a bit, it mentions that razer blade stealth only supports single display output via tb3
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075B1GQFP/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i4?ie=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B075B1GQFP&amp;pd_rd_r=2c325d41-0f92-11e8-a0f8-f19795331bad&amp;pd_rd_w=q7U1x&amp;pd_rd_wg=B7YUz&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=HF11Y8N4JXJWA5EKEWAC&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=07871b8e-d32a-4963-b98f-ba712077f7f5&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
and
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ANR4CYE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NYIWIL7J73HQ&amp;colid=WVE2W1FA6RM3&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANR4CYE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687502&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B01AAAU4WS&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=F95QCWZPTW9KMQ48SFR1
Do you think something like this would work? Thanks
You can buy a usbc to displayport/minidisplayport adapter, then connect a mst hub to connect 2 or 3 monitors all at once either directly to two port adapter, or buy an additional mst hub.
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0746NKVBN/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523723617&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+c+alternate+mode&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=310B5ayd2oL&amp;ref=plSrch
or
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-TB32DP2-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE
or get these displaylink solution
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-3840x2160-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B074743NHP
or two hdmi version
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07476R6BP/ref=psdcmw_3230976011_t1_B074743NHP
I had the same issue on my xps 13 when using this thunderbolt adapter:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495739645&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=startech+thunderbolt+3+display+port
but not when using this one for some reason:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-USB-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01EKARUUS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495739704&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=startech+usb+c+hdmi
Though, since I wanted to use a double screen I investigated. Thought I had fixed it by doing a thunderbolt firmware update. Which I did the week I moved to a new apartment. Everything was fine for a month, but I had to move back to my previous apartment. The problem started to reappear. So it was environmental, not a software issue. I figure it must be something with the power or interference. It was apparently the later.
Here is my fix:
http://i.imgur.com/Pqn7aEq.jpg
Yup.... ugly, but it works!
first of all, very important, not sure this will work, never tried to get 2 5k monitors out of 1pc
this should get 5k out of the monitors, for only 4k there are simple ways!
you will also have to buy 2 of these, plug 1 to each monitor and the DisplayPort cables from the GPUs to them
if the red footage is 8k consider double the ram
this pc should meet the minimum requirements for this to work. nevertheless, ask for other people opinion/advice because like i said earlier, i'm not sure this will work
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor | $342.84 @ Jet
CPU Cooler | be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | $65.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - Fatal1ty X370 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $138.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $261.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $127.98 @ NCIX US
Storage | Sandisk - X400 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $265.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Sandisk - X400 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $265.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $329.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $329.99 @ Newegg
Case | Thermaltake - Core X71 Tempered Glass Edition ATX Full Tower Case | $134.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $117.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2392.22
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $2382.22
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-14 09:16 EDT-0400 |
EDIT: changed words
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Monitor-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE
Now that I look at it, its USB-C to Dual DisplayPort, and it looks like it might cap out at 60hz? Would need this verified, though.
Did some more research... this article notes that the recent MacBook Pros support MST https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT206587
So with that info, it leads me to believe that this adapter would work: StarTech.com Thunderbolt 3 to Dual Monitor DisplayPort Adapter - Thunderbolt to 2x DP Converter - 4K 60Hz - Windows only Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANR4CYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9.OxybJ7FBNSD
I am pretty sure where it says incompatible with Mac, means incompatible with the older macs that only support SST. Anybody know for sure?
Hello,
Yes it's for a development environment. I think that startechs adaptors might do the trick, I found this one on Amazon that has a few User Q&A's claiming plug and play support on Ubuntu.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-TB32DP2T-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B01ANR4CYE/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=startech%2Bdisplayport&amp;qid=1552503838&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-15&amp;th=1#customerReviews
Thanks dude!
Defenitely! Use one of those options:
Dont forget that usb-c hubs are coming out that address those issues. some are multi-purpose (hdmi/DP, Ethernet, USB 3.0) and some just do things like USB-C to dual DP/HDMI. Check out https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B01ANR5AJU, Thunderbolt 3 Express Dock from Belkin (http://www.belkin.com/us/F4U095/p/P-F4U095/)
After looking at the laptop you linked, it appears that you have a few options for video output to more monitors. By dual monitors, I assume you want two monitors plus the laptop screen, or using just the two monitors.
The ports that would be easiest to use for extra monitors are the one HDMI port, which you can plug directly into a second monitor, and then a Mini Display Port adapter so either a second HDMI output, or some other video cable. You probably want to stay away from VGA, HDMI and Displayport are much faster options. You can basically buy any monitor that has an HDMI input.
For conversion, you have some options. You have a USB 3.1 port with Thunderbolt 3, on which you can have a dual HDMI output adapter for less cable mess than a standalone HDMI out and a mDP converter, but only slightly less. Here is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANR5AJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PfZBybYW24QWS
Your second option is too use the built in HDMI port, and additionally purchase a mini Display Port (Thunderbolt 2) adapter to HDMI. Here is a mDP converter that supports 4K: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NKIQ8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_miZBybGBAZ6EB
The second option is definitely cheaper, by about $80.
(Note: all the options I have listed here support 4K, although cheap 4K monitors with a tiny bezel are hard to come bye, most are $400+. Here is a good Acer 1080p bezel-less monitor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5AH2YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MrZByb1Q9KFRC )
Once you plug all the wires in, Windows (I assume you're running Windows. If you are using some sort of Linux, just ask) will see those screens and extend the display to them.
Good luck!
No thunderbolt has enough bandwidth to support two 4k monitors at 60hz, assuming you go TB3 to dual Displayport. You can also do TB3 to dual HDMI for 4k at 30hz.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-TB32HD2-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01ANR5AJU
Yes, get something like this or this and it should work. The XPS 13 supports multiple monitors through the Thunderbolt 3 port. Plug the wireless mouse/keyboard into the normal USB A ports and you're all set!
Notice that the hdmi version only claims 30hz: https://www.amazon.com.au/StarTech-com-Thunderbolt-Dual-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B01ANR5AJU
Pretty sure all the thunderbolt adapters do is send over the signal from the built in HDMI/DP outputs on the computer, and the HDMI ones are only v1.4 only the DP ones will support 4k60.
It's a limitation of the Intel integrated GPU that they are connected to.
Thanks, I didn't know this.
In the end, instead of the WD-15, I ended up ordering a StarTech TB32HD2 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01ANR5AJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1).
Additionally, since the laptop doesn't have an ethernet port, I picked up a USB3->ethernet adaptor too (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B010SEARPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1).
Where are you plugging in the Display Port to?
For reference, this is what I'm using:
Link
Damn where did you find that for $200? The one with the i5 and 1060 in it?
HP's page says it has a uATX (micro atx) motherboard unlike most of their desktops. If that's true it's a standard form factor that will fit into most any case you want.
This is the board they say it has
The power supply I'm less sure about but the specs page says it's a Micro ATX PSU. I think that's the same as SFX which you can mount in a normal ATX case with a bracket.
Few things to consider:
2.50" x 4.92" or Approx 63.5 mm x 125 mm is the footprint of a SFX PSU
3.39" x 5.91" or Approx 86.1 mm x 150 mm is the footprint of a ATX PSU
This leaves a difference of .89" or 22.6 mm
The AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G is 55 mm thick being 15 mm thicker than a FE card which we already know can fit with a standard ATX PSU
Using this adapter You can place the SFX PSU as close to the bottom of the case as possible
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
Here is a 800 watt SFX PSU which is the biggest I know
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01NALZ89C?th=1
Also there is room in this case for: 2 fans on the front, 1 fan on the bottom, 2 on the top, and 1 on the back so I would also recomend a fan hub like this one from Deepcool that would allow for fans all running at a given PWM setting
https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP
I had already been planning this for some of my builds to give room for a standard dual slot card to breathe since the nano has a very limited space between the PSU and GPU. I would actually recommend this to anyone using a non FE card with this case as it will allow your card a better chance to cool properly.
If you are about to do this soon please get some Pics and share so others can see this too.
TLDR: YES
Hey - quick answers
Feel free to keep asking any questions you have. You're right though, this was stuff I did trial an error with - first attempted with full ATX psu but decided SFX after running into clearance issues with Fury Air cooler. Then, I decided to get the 24 pin extender after setting up with the stock connector - realllly tight fit, a lot of stress on MB. Decided I didn't want to risk it further, and it looked like crap.
In a case that small? Any full modular. You might even consider looking at an SFX PSU. You can buy a bracket to adapt them to an ATX PSU bay, that would give you a little more room for air flow, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
I used this SFX PSU in my old NAS and it was absolutely solid. (It does come with a bracket so long as you don't mind it being silver)
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817256063
I don't know too much about the ncase but would this work for you?
Buy an sfx to atx bracket, else your psu will be held up with 2 screws.
Silverstone bracket. 6 screws, but more expensive.
Corsair bracket. Cheaper, but only 3 screws.
Correct, it doesn't come with an adapter bracket. I have the Silverstone bracket since I couldn't find where you could get the Corsair one in Canada.
Maybe something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517592968&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=psu+mount
From what I understand the air 240 is designed for standard ATX PSUs but if you found the exact model of the Silverstone I'm sure PCPP would tell you if they're compatible. Depending on the dimensions of the PSU, you could also try something like this.
If the CX unit you have is the exact one you linked, it's a green label unit and it's known for being unstable and unreliable. There are updated grey label units that are much higher quality. If yours is a grey label I wouldn't worry about it. If it's a green label, I'd replace it. Even a low end EVGA B series would be much better for still around $30-50.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/phVYcf
https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/170805.69b3786581b20cb5895c2f469334d5cf.c5be5bdc43b83c5a01c248c35c6a603d.1600.jpg
Corsair SFX 600 Power Supply with SilverStone Technology Universal ATX to SFX Power Supply Bracket RL-PP08B
You'll probably need an SFX to ATX adapter to use the smaller PSU in that case: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8
The SFX unit is already expensive and even more once you add in an adapter so you might want to switch to regular ATX which should be fine because you're using an all in one and all the SFX really would give you is more clearance above the CPU socket.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $322.39 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H50 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $54.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus - ROG STRIX Z270i GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $168.44 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $134.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card | $749.89 @ B&H
Case | Silverstone - Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.90 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1560.59
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1540.59
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-19 17:14 EDT-0400 |
Like this?
SilverStone Technology Universal ATX to SFX Power Supply Adapter Bracket in Black Color PP08B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QdtRDb0SCMXGG
Great case choice :D
I don't know what your application is for this build...but if you want to save money or deflect for another time, etc. I'd recommend just a single stick of 8GB ram (for now) - upgrading to the 16GB later. So this should drop it by ~$90.
Then I would recommend a SF450 or SF600 for your PSU - as this will open the door for future SFF builds as well. In addition to it, pick up the ATX to SFX adapter. What this will ALSO do is give you more room for your cooler to breath - if not get a bigger cooler that has better cooling capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527010539&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=atx+sfx+adapter
This looks like you could probably get another ~20mm of room.
Which should allow you to get this instead...
https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527010650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=noctua+65
Or any cooler that's 65mm tall or less (since with an ATX PSU, your limit is 61mm. If you use an SFX PSU you'll gain ~20mm, so technically your limit is now 81mm - but of course you'll still want a gap so...).
These PSUs are $80-120. So there's that.
Otherwise, I think everything else looks good.
Here you go. I (will) live in Montreal and it says it ships to there.
I'm using an SFX 600w power supply so it should fit no problem. I'll actually be using an ATX to SFX PSU adapter.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYB33J8/
Cable Matters 72W 4-Port USB-C Charger with USB Power Delivery for Laptops, Tablets, and Smartphones in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS9CTB7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5gWfAbXS9ZBNQ
Looks like this would charge the switch in docked mode, but im not sure as the quality from cable matters. Anyone have experience with them?
for a portable battery I've been looking at this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XT11YT9
For Just a charger I've found this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS9CTB7
That's how I bought my Spectre, as a refurb for about 1k (~500 off) and it was the best choice I could've made, amazing laptop handles everything I throw at it between cad and Adobe stuff and it came with no blemishes and no visible issues. the refurb was perfect. I'd say go for it
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Charger-Delivery-Smartphones/dp/B01MS9CTB7/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_crc_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01MS9CTB7&amp;pd_rd_r=Z6QPY59T2NMQ8KAS21PK&amp;pd_rd_w=KXHA6&amp;pd_rd_wg=1KQhT&amp;pf_rd_p=07e3c3d9-94c9-405b-8d35-f3de6d5ea62c&amp;pf_rd_r=Z6QPY59T2NMQ8KAS21PK&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Z6QPY59T2NMQ8KAS21PK
I'd recommend this charger, works past the DRM and allows multiple plugs
I currently use this. Fast charges my Pixel 2 and charges my laptop with the USB C PD port.
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Charger-Delivery-Smartphones/dp/B01MS9CTB7/
This is the only charger I carry.
I bought this over a year ago when searching for a charger with:
Ideally I'd like 2 USB C ports, but I can't seem to find that.
I carry a micro USB cord, a USB C to USB C cord, and a USB C to USB A cord. I can charge my laptop + my phone or external battery at the same time at about full speed for both. The micro USB is for my camera batteries, but I rarely have to charge those.
I replace the cord on the back with whatever region's plug I'm travelling in.
I'm actually looking at purchasing this one. 60W USB C PD with type A ports.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS9CTB7
Which laptop are you trying to charge? Any of the MacBooks, for instance, will struggle on a 15w adapter.
I just ordered this one, which is smaller than most, but not by much. It is 1 inch x 2.8 x 3.6. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS9CTB7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This may interest you - https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2018/2/27/17058314/mu-one-usb-c-power-delivery-charger-pd-kickstarter
This is what i currently have, is this not powerful enough?
Anker
Get something similar to this?
But obviously with the plugs you'll actually need.
I'd recommed getting another charger such as this or something similar on Amazon. Apple chargers will give you pitiful charging speeds.
If you've got another USB-powered device get something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Charger-PowerPort-Interchangeable-Adapter-White/dp/B01MXXOQTE
I am UK based but:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MXXOQTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wGL0DbNTEPAKV
What you read does not tell you the full story. You can buy a good charger and cable for like £15.
It's non-trivial to the point of requiring physical modification of the unit and several additional components.
I suggest either getting a battery bank that already has an inverter or get a fan that connects to USB. Heck, there are fans with batteries that charge from USB.
Not sure if this will work but I might give it a try. It will need a three to two prong adapter Omars AC Power Bank, 24000mAh AC Outlet Laptop Portable Battery Pack Travel Charger output with two USB Ports, 80w Output, 88Wh Universal Travel Charger for Macbook, Laptops, Tablets and Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P81Z9V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uRp5Ab6YKY3R4
Anyone know if there exists a battery pack casing that uses C or D batteries and has an AC outlet? I want to put LED string lights on my porch but there's no outlet. I'm iffy on solar and I'm not looking to go the dedicated rechargable pack route, as getting one with AC output is expensive enough to just warrant hiring someone to add an actual outlet.
Edit: looks like USB packs with AC output are cheaper than I thought. Might just go that route.
Just buy new battery
GENUINE DELL INSPIRON 15 7577 7778 15.2V 3500MAH 56WH LAPTOP BATTERY J9NH2 33YDH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-DELL-INSPIRON-15-7577-7778-15-2V-3500MAH-56WH-LAPTOP-BATTERY-J9NH2-33YDH/231888005712
Price only 46 USD
or you can use Laptop Power Bank
AC Outlet Portable Laptop Charger, Omars 88Wh/24000mAh 80W AC Power Bank Portable Battery Pack Compatible with MacBook(Not for 15" MacBook Pro) Laptops and Other Devices Under 80W
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-Omars-24000mAh-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V
Price only 69 USD
for example if i plugged in a pedalboard with a Donner DP-1 psu on it, this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-Omars-24000mAh-Compatible/dp/B073P81Z9V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=portable+battery+with+outlet&amp;qid=1557799297&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
But how long it would last would depend on how much pedals/current im using, got it, but my concern is would this battery push out enough to power the board?
Seconded. This or digitakt with external battery pack. I have the following and haven't been able to run the battery down even 25% after a 2-3 hour jam.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P81Z9V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also worth mentioning that OP would need headphones.
Thanks.
I found that the Apple MBP 13‘ Charger looks quite sleek but a smaller Alternative would be this one: https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-Adapter-US-PowerDelivery-Technology-USB-World-Small/dp/B07GBYVF4Q
All about the Innergie 60W USB-C charger. It’s the most compact laptop charger available period. I mean it’s the same size as two iPhone 5W cube chargers! Combo it with this 4-in-1 cable and it’s now the only charger I need when traveling. Just a heads up the Innergie’s a bit pricey but worth every penny IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBYVF4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A.PHDbTHF38H4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMCRX7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gpQHDbYPRKMWX
I have this issue with my lg gram 17 (2019) as well.
&#x200B;
The charger I used is quite reputable, 60W as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-Adapter-US-PowerDelivery-Technology-USB-World-Small/dp/B07GBYVF4Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
&#x200B;
It seems maybe the voltage/amperes rating is not regular for the machine (20V/3A, 15V/3A) maybe it supports 20V/2.25A, 15V/3A as it charges fine but the CPU does throttle...
&#x200B;
Im assuming this by the DC adapter providing 48W not 60W as I initially thought.
Maybe a 45W USB C adapter will work well. On the other USB-C Charger what is the power output ratings?
&#x200B;
I tried finding information on LG Gram website but seems theres no information.
If travel is your priority, you can't go wrong with https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-Adapter-US-PowerDelivery-Technology-USB-World-Small/dp/B07GBYVF4Q
Yes, you pay a premium for the size and weight and that's a consideration you should take. I personally wish it was 100W charger OR dual 60W connections, but currently, it makes my travel bag very light and roomy.
I can't use something like this?
maybe time to go with a high efficiency PSU?
I'm considering this one Amazon but the thing is I don't know if the circular connector is the correct size. I have so many of these connectors sitting around the house but either they don't fit some of the electronics or they are not the correct voltage/amperage. Is there some kind of system like SAE/Metric or is it unregulated and manufacturers just make whatever size adapter for their product like Apple?
Both of those cases have pretty specific PSU specs. They want a flexATX PSU, which are usually noisy. I think you get the best mileage out of an HDPlex 400 watt DC-DC psu and a Dell 330 Watt AC-DC adapter
They aren't cheap, but then sffPCs tend to cost a bit more. I've used both in some of my Ultra sff builds and love them.
Of the 1u flex atx PSUs they recommend, I think I'd trust the Seasonic the most. Seasonic makes great PSUs, and It costs less than either of the two components I listed.
They are not exactly alone in doing this. These ones include Ethernet which would have been nice to have, but don't include the USB-C Power Cable or the HDMI cable that comes with the dock.
This is the one I use for work
This is the Apple counterpart
I will agree that the encryption part bothers me though.
EDIT: Now just reading a better formatted, better thought out reply by u/Lyianx
Nope. These are the Anker products I've got;
This is supposedly a workable 48W adapter - With reviews from a 15" MBP user. - https://www.amazon.com/Innergie-USB-C-PowerDelivery-Technology-Wrap-Around/dp/B0188PAD00/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525644094&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=auto+to+USB+C+45W&amp;psc=1
This has been my cable-free MVP charger for the year and a half.
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