Best light sockets according to redditors

• Two full spectrum 20W LED grow bulbs
  
  
• Ten small 7W 4100K LEDs (similar to these) all screwed into 5-bulb socket splitters. These bulbs I had laying around - I plan on slowly replacing these with small 7w full spectrum grow bulbs as I find good deals on them.
  
  
• One 105W 2700K soft white photography CFL
  
  
  The lights are on for 14 hours per day

Unscrew your porch light and use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

NOTE: Don't overload the circuit. Or the circuit breaker will trip.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1345309404&sr=1-1&keywords=light+socket+adapter

SLA battery + DC-AC inverter + cheapo analog light timer + light bulb.

Edit here's a parts list.
Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Devices-Inverter-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01J4S7YKC/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1479399479&sr=1-3&keywords=power+inverter+clip

Timer (2pk) - https://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-24-Hour-Mechanical-Settings/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479399756&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer

Plug light - https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-2-Prong/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479399822&sr=8-6&keywords=plug+in+light

Then just grab a 12V car, boat, lawn tractor battery. Use an led bulb for less power draw. You'll have to recharge every so often (the battery capacity will determine how often).

Also you can add a solar charger so you never have to charge it. http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-68692.html

I know in my case for my most recent house, I used a Circuit Breaker Finder. Have a helper plug it into an outlet, scan the panel til you find what you think it is. Flip the breaker, the power light at on the unit plugged in goes off to confirm, write it down, move on. That, with a light socket plug adatper got the majority of circuits out of the way. I was lucky that I had the finder at work, and can see how spending $40 can be a bit much for what most people see as a one time task.

For previous houses, I've had a few different methods. If I'm doing the entire house, I'd grab as many electric things as I could find and plug them in all over. Lamps, plug testers, radios, basically anything that would give me indication that the power was on or not. Then yes, sweep.

If I'm looking for a single breaker, I would just plug in a set of speakers, play some music and flip breakers until the music stops.

Try these. They're not great, but they're way better than what you have now.

$160 for a $7 extension cord and a shelf bracket?

They shouldn't be selling home furnishings, they should be teaching classes on how to grow balls the size of grapefruit.

You need a bulb with higher lumens. That measures the light output.

I bought this for my garage because one bulb was not enough: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVUDDC2

Right? It is a hell of a lot nicer to wake up to light than sound, though. I made one of these and the brightness from the light almost always wakes me up before my alarm goes off.

If you want to make your own, CFL bulbs with Amalgam are perfect as they gradually heat up over a few minutes from about 50% brightness to 100%.

Light: http://www.amazon.com/Satco-Compact-Fluorescent-Reflector-Replacement/dp/B008SCEQXY/

Timer: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FSQTQQA/

Fixture: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-61-Polarized-Outlet---Lampholder/dp/B001OM1L06/

I'd recommend buying an extension cord and something to secure the fixture to your ceiling or wall.

You can buy adaptors! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013QO15GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r86Ezb9X9M6KE


This is what I did for my bedside lamp. Works great as long as the light has a big lamp shade.

Yeah this is the splitter I use


And these are the bulbs

My local Costco sells just the 4 packs of bulbs for like 15 bucks a pack. I take the diffusers off the bulbs so the light isn’t as scattered. They also have 3000k 17.5w bulbs that believe it or not I’m using in my flower box with 6 of the same splitters and my flowers are putting on weight. Much better than my old blurples and cheap ‘grow lights’

LED Concepts® Remote Control... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1P44R8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Get a connected bulb for the bathroom, RF would easiest and cheapest I think. Then you can leave the light circuit 'on' all the time, but the bulb is only illuminated when the RF remote is used. Then you can power the GH at all times without a battery using just socket adapter.

Socket Adapter

RF Bulb

The second one is definitely important living in a basement. The heating system is normally down there and depending on what type it is, it could leak CO and kill you in your sleep.

Also, I hope you have enough power outlets and not overloading them!

Nice choice on using christmas lights for some lighting. Maybe get a lightbulb plug to make it easier to turn them on.

For the fires, you probably don't have a safe egress, which is why it's illegal to live in basements. Just make sure your roommates are nice enough to grab you incase of a fire (Set up a meeting point outside for fires so you all go to the same place and do a headcount). You might have to run through some flames to get out but it's no biggie.

Source: also lived in a basement.

GE 54276 Polarized Handy Outlet Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DN6QX2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I'm using. Works flawlessly.
If you want to keep the light as well, you can use this instead:

Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mHV.AbN3SJYV7

Or get one of these


https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Adapter-Install-54276/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=light+bulb+outlet&qid=1573098811&s=handmade&sr=1-1-catcorr

It might not be the most popular thing to say in this sub, but if that's all you want it for just grab something like this. It'll sense motion when the door opens and auto-activate the light.

That said, if you want more out of it this isn't what you're looking for! Hope this helps!

Think of these buckets as a template, every grower solves problems differently and that is why you won't find two identical setups. That creative freedom is part of the beauty of the space bucket experience :D

It is really a simple design, you can build one with little effort. I don't know what your budget is, but if you get a UFO LED light you just need to put it on a lid and add some PC fans on the side. If you go the CFL route you can get something like this 4-way adapter that is very easy to install and comes already wired with a plug (and a fuse actually). You'll need to do some benchmarking and debugging but those parts have been bucket-tested and will make your build easier.

A picture of the bucket

Light socket referenced on spacebuckets.com

Bulbs - Philips LED bulbs, 8$ for 4

Trash can $22

5 gallon bucket - $3

Fans - free

power supply on spacebuckets.com

LED strip - see amazon

Fan board, somewhere on https://www.spacebuckets.com/materials

At full blast, fans, LEDs & lights, it uses 100w (I plugged it into a Kill-A-Watt)

2 months Veg, 3 months flower

Produced 1.8 oz (53g) of dried flower, after trimming from stems.

Totally worth it, but the place !smelled! crazy-strong from veg through flower (gelato is much stinkier than any of my previous grows)

here is the answer to your woes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0/

I would not LED strip, its clumsy, lots of parts, and so on

Suggestions:

1. I would repair the wire connection and use a candelabra LED bulb [I think candelabra is the right socket shape?], which will put far less strain on the weak splices than the old light did because LED uses far less amps. Thats the easy option, use the brightest bulb you can find
   
2. Adapt to a normal socket size [you lose space in the glass cover because of the adaption] Use 100w LED bulb
   
3. LED light engine retrofit
   
4. Replace the socket with a Type A normal socket size, which opens a vast number of LED light bulbs to you, like this very bright LED bulb [you have to check how long these special bulbs are, minus screw base, plus the socket depth etc]

That plant is going to double in size during flower... so you'll need a bigger box even if you start right now, which is no big deal. In fact, you need an upgrade. Order some mylar from amazon (I mean you could technically use foil but that's not nearly as good)
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Mylar-Diamond-Highly-Reflective/dp/B01N5MHXQD/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden
and thank me later.



Oh, and you'll need to double the lights for flower too. So, get a bigger box, line it with mylar, add a 4 light socket splitter,
https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Splitter-Converter-Standard-Adjustable/dp/B01DVUDC5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523692944&sr=8-1&keywords=4+light+socket

And order 2x 3000k and 2x 2700k led bulbs (you want lower k's for flower, while mixing 3000k and 2700k would be pretty good, you could do 3000k and 3500k too if you wanted, I mean you could just do all 3500k really, but I'm giving you a better way to go) (I mean I'm sure you could stick with cfl, but it's inferior to led). I found these 4 packs of each
3000k & 2700k
https://www.amazon.com/Great-Eagle-Equivalent-Non-Dimmable-14-Watt/dp/B01NAKT3CX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8

You can get a timer from amazon too, manual is cheaper, but digital is only around $11. That way you don't have to turn your lights on and off every 12 hours.

And what gallon pot is that?

This! So much this. Everything goes on sale Dec 26th for around half to 80% off...and it's only the second day of Christmas!

If you have any outside lights, there is a cheap adapter to turn those into outlets for additional lights as well. Very useful if you don't have a regular outside outlet.

Five bucks!

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=br_lf_m_gmtayufhb75x6de_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Just buy one of these or these for a few bucks. You're better off not having the exposed wiring. Solder connections can be brittle and break if you stress them too much. Also you never know if you're going to have to replace the bulb.

Everything was going great but then my lights (CFLs with the suggested 4-socket adapter) fell on my plant about 2 weeks from harvest. Burned a few spots on and around the main stem, plant pulled through like a champ though. It's a stupid mistake, but make sure not to be lazy about taping shit down and do regular bucket checkups to see how it's holding up.

JACKYLED E26 5 in 1 Socket Adapter E27 Converts for Standard LED Bulbs 360 Degrees Adjustable 180 Degree Bending Max Watt 500W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVUDDC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i52LybDYGSKF2

A few of those will allow you to turn the bulbs on their side. Get some Mylar on the top to reflect back down

Edit: I'm very eager to see how this goes when you have the bulbs oriented correctly

Then for $4.50 US, get something like this or this:

You'll have to use your own USB charger.

​

Thing

Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC, two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70. Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.

Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.

Broken cupboard door: Get a box of wooden matches; break the heads off 3-4 of them, however many will fit into the screw hole. Dip them into wood glue, then shove them into the hole as far as they will go. Once the glue dries, cut them off flush with the wood surface, then screw the hinge back into the newly filled-in wood. If you lost the screws, take one out of another hinge and your local hardware store should have something that matches up. Can also try getting a screw a couple sizes up instead of the matchstick trick. Screws are numbered for "thickness" and then measured for length. Quick chart of the American system is here -- http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/screws-1.jpg.

Toilet lid - usually these just sit on top of the tank? If you're talking about the seat, there are usually 2 screws under the hinge tabs, look for a cover you can flip up. Might have to use pliers underneath to hold the nut while tightening the screw above.

For the vast majority of things, if you don't want to post on /r/diy (that's what it's here for!) just search Google for "cabinet door hinge fell off", or "toilet seat loose," etc, there's plenty of information out there (even step by step YouTube videos!)

Source: Way too much of my childhood spent watching This Old House and reading this thing.

If you have a door light or lamp post, you can take out the bulb, screw this in, and instant outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

My parents do this every year. Just don't go crazy and put too many lights going to this thing. But especially with the low power LED lights, you can string quite a bit up to this thing.

GE Polarized Handy Plug, 2 Pack, Bulb Adapter, Convert Light Socket to Outlet, Easy-to-Install, UL Listed, Black, 54276
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B5cwDbGW4NYHW

Could you use a light socket adapter?

link

You could always just get another screw base. They're like $2.

Or you could get a motion sensor meant for an outdoor fixture like this and just screw an LED lamp into it.

Battery powered motion lights? Would have to change batteries as needed. Not stylish enough maybe (although being a new parent, learn that function is going ot have to overtake fashion real soon)

Motion light bulb? No batteries, but requires you leave the light switch on. Also likely dependent on the fixture you have in the hall. There are options on entire new fixtures, too, which probably look better (or at least less obvious), but a little bite more work to install.

Motion ligh switch. Would only work if you are near the switch, though (not sure what "easy access in the dark" means). You could install this yourself, its 3 or 4 wires tops.

Motion may not be the way to go if you have pets

Those are chandelier/candelabra (E12) style sockets. There are no Hue bulbs yet that utilize that socket.

I got these E12 to E26/E27 adapters http://www.amazon.com/JACKY-LED-5-Pack-E12-Adapter/dp/B00L595FA0/ to use my Hue bulbs with a ceiling fan that takes candelabra bulbs. They work really well, but make the bulb stick out about another inch.

i did this exact same thing (thought i was so clever!). Used these adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work perfectly for me: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00L595FA0/ref=nosim/appleink

I just installed these yesterday, works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to delid the bulb to get them to fit as the length was too long, but they still look great just not as diffused.

assuming youre talking about e12/candelabra?

these are what i use.

I doubt it. However, you could run an E14 to E26 adapter, something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Candelabra-Adapter-Converter-Convert-Chandelier/dp/B013QO15GE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K572MMASN34RDB1AZ692

I have a couple lamps (though they're E12, not E14, but the concept is the same) and use an adapter. They work great. They are not complex adapters and likely doesn't matter what brand you go with, as they're just connecting copper to copper. Only things you'd have to make sure of:

• wattage (though likely not a problem, as I think the color 1000/a19 bulbs are only 11w)
  
• clearance (as you'd be fitting a larger bulb in a potentially small space. the mini's might be a better option)
  
• airflow (fitting a larger bulb into a potentially smaller space might not leave enough room for the heat to dissipate)
  
• directionality (the color 1000s and similar large form factors are designed to point more upwards, instead of in all directions. the minis do a better job at dispersing color outwards, with the caveat of lower lumen output)
  
  Hope that helps.

7x https://www.dollartree.com/search/go?w=Led%20light

Cut off the plastic domes

Get a 7 way socket splitter

Toplimit 7 Light Bulb Splitter Socket,Engery Saving Lamps E26 Base, Adaptor Conventer for Standard LED E26 E27 Bulbs,Garage Intensified Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKIE6M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2b86BbJGRJD5D

A corded socket
JACKYLED Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable UL 12Ft 360W with E26 E27 Socket On/Off Button + Hooks + 2-Prong AC Power Plugs Pendant Lighting for Kitchen Bedroom Plant Growth light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9c86BbDMSQS06

Assemble it all and it will look like this http://imgur.com/gallery/1eZwTCt

If your lucky you can get 1 gram per watt. So 63 grams. I'd advise against the foil and use mylar. You can get it at walmart for a dollar sold as emergency blankets. The reason is foil is a very poor reflector but good at reflecting heat. Which you dont want.

You can use the cardboard box but I would find a plastic tote to use or even a 5 gallon bucket.

Now for nutrients.

General hydroponics flora series micro General Hydroponics FloraMicro, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKDFAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sl86BbFS7BVY3

General hydroponics flora series bloom
General Hydroponics FloraBloom Fertilizer, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y36AOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Im86Bb6ECWXT3

Use the lucas formula which is 6ml of micro and 9ml of bloom. From seed to harvest.

Okay so I had an extra minifridge laying around, which is where the plan started.

I then got

the Inkbird temperature & humidity controllers

a cheap little humidifier that activates as soon as you power it

[a dehumidifier (as I also use the chamber for curing meats sometimes)]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPQMMR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

and then also a regular incandescent lightbulb on a lantern cord

So how it works is the temperature and humidity controllers each have two power sockets, one that activates when the temp/humidity goes lower than what you set it to, and the other when it gets higher.

So I plug the fridge itself in to the high temp socket,

the lightbulb in to the low temp socket,

the humidifier in to the low humidity socket,

and the dehumidifier in to the high humidity socket

The humidity controllers sit on the bottom of the fridge, and the lightbulb is hung from the top.

I then took off the door of the fridge and ran all the wires between the door and the body, and then put the door back on. All the wires are hidden in a box sitting on top of the fridge, and the Inkbird control units sit next to it.

I have some koji growing in it right now but when it's all done I can pull it out of the corner and take some pics of the setup

For that kind of money you could easily get a 4-way (or 5-way) bulb adaptor plus 4-5 100w LED bulbs which would be TWICE as bright.

$14.99 for the fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDDC2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UENWQOYWIPH9

$35 for 4 LED floodlights that are 100w each:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMK05Y2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VCN0ZD746TM9

Pick up a motion sensing light switch for $21:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485043085&sr=8-1&keywords=motion+sensing+light+switch

That will be 500 watts versus 228 watts for only $71, saving you $50 per fixture. Got two like I do? $142 instead of $260!

Now, if something goes wrong, you can replace the bulbs or fixture cheaply. Or take it with you.

Bonus? You don't even have to remove your existing ceiling socket. This all just screws right in!

You could buy this bundle: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Bridge-Dimmer/dp/B0777TC8QZ/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536714990&sr=1-26&keywords=lutron+bridge

The manual control is a tablet top remote. The Lutron bridge supplies the WiFi component.

The above will work if you have Apple or Google phones. If you only care about Apple comparability, you can go with the cheaper solution below:

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Light-Adapter-Required/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536715561&sr=1-10&keywords=idevices

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Instant-Switch-Wireless-Faceplate/dp/B079B9SGZM/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536715561&sr=1-11&keywords=idevices

There may be other cheaper solutions, based on Z-Wave, that others may be able to point out.

My design philosophy is it has to be easy to use by my wife's standards. It can't be complicated to the point that she's not going to bother. It can't be setup in such a way that only I understand it.


Funny you should mention lamps. That's the one device that has plenty of smart adapters, but none of the obvious choices fit my design philosophy. For example a smart bulb comes to mind. The problem with that is first time my wife turns it off using the lamp's switch, my smart bulb becomes as powerless as any "dumb" bulb. Another device you might use is a wall plug switch such as the Wemo Switch. The first problem here is the plug I plan to use is behind furniture. Even if it wasn't I'm back to the same problem as the smart bulb: my wife would forget to use the wall switch and use the lamp's switch instead. Again my smart switch is rendered useless. So what's the solution? I'm looking at this. It is a smart device that also has a local switch. After installing it I would unscrew the lamp's switch so my wife can't accidentally use it. Over time she would get used to using the smart device's local switch. The only problem with it is it's damn expensive.

Something like this

You need quantity!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076S6927J Fill this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GS114DJ With these.

What a great window of plants you have there!

For optimal coverage, a lamp shaped like a classic T8/T5 fixture with the same length as your window would be suiting (shape-wise).

Although, classic T8/T5 fluorescents are very inefficient at both producing light and directing it where we want it, which is why I recommend LED. Also, having plants in different heights makes this a little impractical as the distance between lamp and plant will affect light intensity a lot.

A square-shaped lamp performs best in a square-shaped area. A longer lamp fixture might give you better coverage but may not be very fun to have hanging all across your window.

Another way to work around this can be to have a couple of smaller light sources spread out. A popular option in the DIY culture is bulbs + splitter. I do not necessarily recommend these two specific options, I just want to show them as an example.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VFFB3PY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076S6927J

If it were my window, I'd aim for bulbs that are a little bigger and only use three of them. Instead of a lamp splitter, I would hang each lamp individually in its own cable at a desired height, something like this: https://i.imgur.com/DpL1H6o.png

Optics or focusing lenses will confine the light and produce a more narrow light footprint. This allows for greater distances between lamp and canopy compared to a LED lamp with no optics. Depending on your desired look and how you want to hang your light sources, you could use either type.

I can't really recommend a good T8 (LED) lamp from the top of my head, neither can I recommend a good E27 lamp (on Amazon). I have seen that the SANSI bulbs are quite popular but it is difficult for us to know how they perform as there is very little information shared about this by SANSI. Other than that, I have no personal opinion about them.

I made a video recently about e27 bulbs with focusing lenses. This video might be interesting if you choose to go for the bulb-option.

Hope this was somewhat helpful :-)

What will you be putting in there? If it's mostly high light species you probably don't want to cheap out too much on light, but if you have a mix or mostly intermediate to low light you can probably get away with cheaper and fewer fixtures.

I have a few of these led panels, which are strong enough to tan a cattleya at a close range and could also cover a very wide area at a further distance for lower light plants. My oldest ones have been running daily for a little over a year and no issues so far, so hopefully they'll last a good long time. You could probably use one of these on each side at an angle so that the front of each shelf gets some direct light and arrange your plants closest by ordered of light requirements.

I also have some areas where I supplement light with a setup of cords---socket splitters---and smaller sized grow bulbs that I can swivel to target a wider or narrower area.

One more tip that I haven't tried with orchids but might be worth a shot in a setup like this, you could line the walls with foil or something reflective to help bounce light to the back sides of the shelves and have less spillover "going to waste". I've only ever done this with seedlings for my garden but it seemed to help.

Looks like it's basically this product.

I got a garage storage unit. It has two light sockets for light bulbs. I got an adapter that plugs into the light socket, and ran a power strip from one socket. Runs a few work lights just fine. Enter unit, close garage door, turn on work lights, jack up vehicle with hydraulic floor jack, put in stands, and get to work. Clean up after and you're good to go.

It can be done.

Perhaps not what you're looking for but if you're primarily just trying to avoid electrical wiring, consider a light socket to plug adaptor. It won't work with all light fixtures but may work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54178-Socket-Adapter-Outlets/dp/B000TU1W9Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

You can then just plug a camera in.

Ohhhhh.... to you have a ceiling or wall light fixture out there? If so you might be able to use something like this and pull power off the light circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473968821&sr=8-5&keywords=light+bulb+socket

they make adapters that you spin into a lightbuld socket, I lived in a self storage unit for two months one time that overlooked the city, all the homes in the area were multimillion dollar so I was pretty proud of my view for $35 a month, i cut a little slit behind the latch so I could close it from the inside so it looked paddle locked
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=asc_df_B001F71O705047028/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B001F71O70&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139094796&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14773802175312856461&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019460&hvtargid=pla-500526566312

They make adapters you can screw into a lightbulb socket and makes a regular power outlet. You can then plug in a power strip to the outlet and get light, electric heat, charge your phone, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

simplest way (if I am reading your post correctly) is buy a light->outlet adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

You have PERFECT timing, ComputerByte! I've been trying to puzzle out the solution to my holiday outdoor lighting woes and realized today that there is such a thing as an outdoor porch light outlet adapter - a little gizmo that screws into the light bulb socket and turns into outlets that things like Christmas string lights can be plugged into. :D

Of course, the one I found had to be an add-on item, so I stuck it on my wishlist and procrastinated further - Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black.

Let's see, number 1-100 - I'll take 73.

I hope your mood improves! How's your little dog doing? EDIT wait no you're a cat person! Furry animal person? How's the small animal I know I've had a conversation with you about? :p

I'd suggest doing something like this: http://www.hawk-hill.com/2014/09/hang-a-chandelier-in-a-room-without-wiring/

You can get DIY Chandelier kits from Home Depot or Lowe's. Just make it shorter than a typical chandelier. Then then put one of these in the light socket.

Maybe something like this if there is not a ground plug on the power cord. http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377900815&sr=8-1&keywords=light+socket+adapter

Depending on how much juice you needed and how strongly you felt about the grounded outlet...here

Try this
Outlet to Lamp adapter

Is this what you want?

Buy a couple packs of CFLs at Walmart. It's like $10 for a pack of 4. They're around 25 actual watts, so that's another 100W for $10. Buy 2 packs, get some of these splitters and these plug adapters (they're like $1 at hardware stores). Plug them into a power strip. You'll really see an increase in bud at the end.

What kind of projector do you have in mind? You might be able to use a USB lamp socket (or DIY equivalent) to power the piratebox while projecting a static image. Or you could power a small digital projector from the socket with one of these. Either way sounds like fun and I hope you make it happen.

What I like about the FM feature is that it doesn't require line of sight. The public can interact with pi(rate)fm without ever seeing it. One day the hardware will be cheap enough to scatter pirateboxes everywhere. Until then, being able to stealthily deploy the things will be important. It may even more important in the future.

A baby monitor also works well for this. If the transmitter has a battery, remove it. Plug the transmitter into the outlet in question. Take the receiver with you. When the signal drops, you found the right breaker. This also works on light fixtures if you use one of these.

You could buy one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Hanging-Lantern-Cord-Off-Switch/dp/B007RPRYF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=15N98QG93X41S59ED313

And one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-125-2-Pole-2-Wire-Adapter/dp/B001PCVTFC

And just pug them together.

You've seen this?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Adapter-Install-54276/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lightbulb+plug+ground&qid=1566453694&s=gateway&sr=8-1

This.

How many Watts is the LED?

Turn them into outlets, and then plug in some string lights or lamps. Or hanging pendants with a shade.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Adapter-Install-54276/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/132-2102568-7743137?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DN6QX2&pd_rd_r=03650b17-a233-4a33-991e-74fce8ecb42b&pd_rd_w=JO9Lv&pd_rd_wg=LZKqn&pf_rd_p=43281256-7633-49c8-b909-7ffd7d8cb21e&pf_rd_r=EHNJ8X55ENG9N3YDPCAB&psc=1&refRID=EHNJ8X55ENG9N3YDPCAB

Here's the real lifehack: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Adapter-Install-54276/dp/B002DN6QX2/

Around Christmas, remove your porch light bulbs and put these in instead. Run your lights from there, and it obviously works from your normal porch light switch inside of the house. Unless you have a ton of lights, these work perfectly.

/u/RGeronimoH Then also pick up these guys too, to plug into your Garage light bulbs outlets (that connect to the switch)


https://www.amazon.ca/GE-Polarized-Adapter-Install-54276/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=pd_cp_60_1/141-7602560-6110348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DN6QX2&pd_rd_r=c6e6d038-20bd-4fd1-afb7-df0dac09e1b5&pd_rd_w=wuAxR&pd_rd_wg=Fy1jT&pf_rd_p=64a84aa4-b549-4445-9bf3-48bdeed5f24a&pf_rd_r=NEPM6AP41Q8DHMCB5RXV&psc=1&refRID=NEPM6AP41Q8DHMCB5RXV

Could you use this?

You can buy one this from amazon

GE Polarized Handy Plug, 2 Pack, Bulb Adapter, Convert Light Socket to Outlet, Easy-to-Install, UL Listed, Black, 54276 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x2oSDbM8D4H57

For fans I avoided a lot of the wiring (at least on the bucket lids for exhaust) by using adjustable usb fans and plugging them into a 1amp USB wall outlet (like an iphone plugs into).


https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473291878&sr=1-1&keywords=thermaltake+mobile+fan+2


they push about 50cfm each and I can adjust them based on my temp readings. I did do regular wiring of a large intake at the bottom using the guides here.

As for lighting, on my CFL bucket I used one of these guys https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Quality-Socket-Adapter-AGG882/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_421_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0E6B9XSRB01D9H0K50VT


Just slaps right on the bucket lid, has dual on/off switches and avoids a lot of the wiring. Really depends on your budget.

I am Helen Keller when it comes to tools and building things, but making this was fairly easy. The hardest part was taking the time to tape everything.

I started off with planting inside the bucket in mind, but decided on using separate pots.

I have a slight phobia when it comes to electricity. Instead of wiring my own sockets, these are the lights I am using:

LimoStudio High Quality 4 Socket Photo Bulb Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_4vRTtb1MZDBBJ

My intake fan is on the bottom, and my exhaust fan is on the top side on the opposite end.

If you're talking about this 4-Socket bulb adapter, you can just plug it directly to the power strip.

Regarding the 8x8 fan, I'm not sure. Maybe /u/Ekrof has more information.

I went with these fans and im very happy ...no wire nuts or electrical tape required, and there about the same price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also if you are looking for a good light set up use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is my build http://imgur.com/a/0gYxr

Welcome to the wild world of growing! Prepare for fun and frustration.

When people state watts in this forum (and anywhere else really as it relates to growing), they most certainly do NOT mean the equivalent.

It's going to be a little tricky to get a single CFL bulb at that wattage. If you only have the option of 1 female receiver, I'd look into this. Or this with several bulbs in it.

I'm not sure what size space you're dealing with, but lighting is important. Do yourself a favor and get something that'll work well.

There are splitters that exist that could split that into 4 sockets. Something like this

I would put the highest wattage CFL that you can buy. Avoid halogen or incandescent light, as they emit more heat and less light than CFLs.

When I started out, I used a similar light system (and sometimes, I still do. Kids can sometimes be spooked by bright, popping strobes). So, here's my suggestion to make it better:

Get two of these (one for each Stand): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-660-Watt-Keyless-Twin-Socket-Lamp-Holder-Adapter-R52-00128-00W/100356967?N=5yc1vZc7po

Or better yet, two of these http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Socket-Adapter-Holder-Splitter/dp/B00HZV2938/ref=pd_sim_p_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=111K6T4N5Y3EHWN2T2PX

And get 4 pack (or two) of 100w daylight balanced CFL bulbs (2 or 4 on each stand). This should help out with tossing more light into the subject, so you could shoot with a faster shutter speed, and still be in the safe zone, electrically speaking, so it shouldn't damage/set fire to your kit.

With CFL, there's a magic shutter speed due to CFL flicker/frequency on multiples of... 1/60? (someone please correct me if this is wrong). So, shoot at 1/60, or 1/120, etc etc (please please please someone correct me if I'm wrong here).

Speaking of CFL... sheesh that green tint. Try setting your camera's White Balance to Fluorescent, which should help remove that green tinting. I don't trust Automatic WB. Look up how to use/operate your camera's Custom White balance. For most cameras, it's basically taking a picture of a white piece of paper [or something specifically made for this purpose] in the scene you're shooting in, and telling your camera to use that as a point of reference.

EDIT: I shoot for my wife's dance studio.. one thing I learned is that using CFL bulbs, I can really get those lights up close to the kids. It's cool and safe enough to be close to your subject. But not too close that you'll notice lens flare on the camera. Just make sure your lights are out of frame, give or take 6 inches.

3 for 23 bucks, not sure they're rated for outdoor use. If it's a covered patio, they should work fine. Here's a similar model that's fifteen bucks for a single unit.

This is what I use.

5-Pack E12 to E26 / E27 Adapter - JACKYLED Chandelier Socket (E12) to Medium Socket (E26/E27) Converter ,Max Wattage 1000W,200℃ Heat Resistant,No Fire Hazard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5AbIxbZKBHV6X

Perfect. Thanks for the idea. For some reason an adapter didn't even cross my mind.

Also, found these on Amazon for super cheap in case anyone else has this problem.

JACKY LED® 5-Pack E12 to E26 / E27 Adapter - Converts Chandelier Socket (E12) to Medium Socket (E26/E27) (5-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4SRUub0QP36BC

https://www.amzn.com/B00L595FA0/

Is that what you're looking for?

If you mean to add a switch to a lamp that doesn't have one, something like this is safer than cutting the cord: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-EC870615-15-Foot/dp/B006G69Z44

If you need a lamp socket too: http://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-Lighting/dp/B016MDPWL0

Using this bulb and it's attached to this cord and a clothing hanger so it can be adjustable once coral is added

First, there's a lot of info in this post about using a lux meter as a plant light meter (and related posts linked there).

Second, I was thinking LEDs like this or this. A 3000K color temperature seems to work well for both veg and flower, though you could use two different ones (veg at 5000K, flower at 2700K?), and 3500K may work better than 3000K. I'm still investigating that. I got some 17W/3000K bulbs like that for my house, was surprised to see how much lux they put off at 12-16" with a reflector. A couple of them could work well in a 2x2, as long as you could move them around / train. I've heard of people using light socket splitters like this, though some of them look really cheaply made, so make sure it's not a shock/fire hazard.

Here's an example setup using several LEDs bulbs (among other things), and a thread comparing LED and CFL bulbs with a lux meter. Both are a couple years old, LED bulbs have gotten better still. (Also, if you take the bulb caps off, be careful about electrical shock.)

All that said, in my 2x2 I use a 135W HLG QB288v2 (3000K). Not a cheap option, though now you can apparently get something roughly identical from Alibaba (via Kingbrite or Meijiu?) for less. It works great. Before that I had a Viparspectra "450W" (actually ~200W), but it failed after about 10 days and I returned it. The light felt super harsh on my eyes, and purple light would have made spotting deficiencies harder.

I have this in my garage and it works perfectly.

4 in 1 Light Socket

>I found a 1-to-5 splitter, or even higher. If you're using a directional splitter like that, you can use some cheap floodlights, and still light up your garage like daylight!

With smart bulbs, they could be controlled independently, so set the bulbs to flash, hang some garland from it, and instant Christmas tree!

Two of these and 10 LED bulbs and five minutes later you'll be more lit than my Oklahoma relatives at a Trump rally.

You have exterior lights. You could put this in and power your cameras from that.

Onite 2pcs E26 to 2 Outlet Light Socket Splitter Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAE56S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5hEDCbANRJ3G1

Do you want to grow a hand full of leaves, or bud you can smoke. If all you wants leaves I recommend growing some basil. As far as incandescent light bulbs, unplug it, it is doing nothing for your grow but wasting your electricity. Buy a grow light or some LED bulbs and build your own fixture if you have to.

https://www.amazon.com/Toplimit-Splitter-E26-Conventer-Intensified/dp/B01FKIE6M4/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1542057973&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=light+bulb+splitter

My veg room has one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKIE6M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it's fillled with these bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CAL1F5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also use an iDevices Socket: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Adapter-Required-Amazon/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510545156&sr=8-1&keywords=idevices+socket

Instead of using the lamps integrated switch to turn it off, the Socket also has an ON/OFF switch on it as well. So, you can use that switch to turn the lamp on and off and still keep the lamp smart. When you turn the lamp off, via the Socket switch, you will still be able to turn it on from your phone as well.

Ok. How about something like this. A Bluetooth light socket?

https://www.amazon.ca/iDevices-Socket-Adapter-Required-Amazon/dp/B01KP5V292

$20! 8T8 E26 E27 7 in 1 LED Light Bulbs Socket Adapter Splitter, Standard Lamp Holder Base Converter for Home Commercial Lighting (Paws_7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ6RY4H

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54178-Socket-Adapter-Outlets/dp/B000TU1W9Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500931612&sr=8-8&keywords=outlet+socket

I used these. 4 linked together in a two car garage. extremely easy to install and very light/low profile

EDIT: When I bought them they were $60 for a 6 pack

I had the same issue and no confidence in wiring an outlet so I just plugged this in to my light socket. Since they are plugged into the light socket they come on when I flip the light switch. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Adapter-Polarized-Workshop-54178/dp/B000TU1W9Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Lights I used
https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Linkable-Workshops-Basements-FlushMount/dp/B01GJVEM4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=workshop+led+lights&qid=1573190581&sprefix=workshop+led&sr=8-3

Light socket to plug adapter, similar to this one.

A lot of people use them for Christmas lights so they can be turned on and off with their porch light switch.

You could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407430422&sr=8-2&keywords=light+socket+plug+adapter

That way you can run an extension cord into your shed for light without sacrificing the porch light. It would obviously only work if the porch light is switched on, but it's better than not having a porch light at all. I wouldn't run more than a few lamps off that power source though.
Edit: how many more times do you think I could say porch light?

Just a thought. You can change the light bulb adapter above to one that has a plug + light. Then use a trickle charger to keep your battery charged. Since you have a nice space in the T@B trailer, you could use it as a cheap office (if they don't mind).

About $4 if you want to charge slowly

> Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC[1] , two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70[2] . Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.


I get these here in the local electrical market. But the light bulb holders are a little higher, I was thinking if I could get a customized socket somewhere near my bed. Where I can plug in my charger.

> Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.


I thought of posting an image of how it looks like from the outside.
Here is an image of it. I think I can even open it, take a pic and let you know, I thought I would first post the pic and ask for feedback. Is the regulator speed depended on the type of ceiling fan? The fan that I am using 1200 MM Sweep, 380 RPM, 80 Watts power consumption.

> Broken cupboard door:

Here is how it looks like. This is the broken door side. And this is how it looks on the cupboard. This image is from another cupboard where both the hinges are intact. So I think it is not really broken but the screws and nut seems to be come off? I went to a hardware store and showed them this pics, they bluntly said that only screws and nuts are not available, you need to purchase the complete set. I don't even know if I am using the technical terms like screws, nuts, hinges right. Forgive me if they are called something else.


> Toilet lid


The one that I have seems to be a little different. Here is what it looks like. The lid wont just fit easily on those plastic connectors given on the top of the hole.

Above all I really want to say a big thank you for taking out time and replying to me. It really helps and can go a long way if I get started with DIY stuffs.

*Sorry if any of the links turned dead. Imgur is disabled in my office, and I used my mobile's 2G network to upload to imgur and manually added the links here on the browser.

For that, you're going to want something like this - bonus points for plugging in Christmas lights that already blink!

...Something tells me we went off topic.

I don't have anything concrete to back this up... but I'm pretty sure here in Canada there is no problems with putting lighting & electrical sockets on the same circuit.

How would that differ from a scenario where somebody simply plugs a floor/table lamp into an electrical socket?

Additional, things like this: http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70 Would certainly not be kosher at all.

Definitely an exhaust fan is installed (but no clue if working or not). Looks like it has a plug, so I would get an extension cord and plug it into an outlet, see if it works (most likely it will). If it does, then get one of those light bulb adapters that have an electrical outlet, plug the fan into it and add a light bulb.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

Edit: please update us with the results.

Ok - so what I have is this guy:
Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F71O70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_VsAxwbXJCQ4TB

You screw it into your light socket and then you have outlets - but it's just two pronged. Which is fine for Christmas lights but not fine for extension cords.

work around.
Buy a light socket that has 2 receptacles on each side : Here

Then 2 of these Socket to bulb adapters Here

that should do it.

I used a couple of these to daisy chain a few from the existing lights in the basement so that I could quickly set them up and keep using a single light switch.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F71O70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I plan to hardwire a few for my garage just to try it out.

Add something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F71O70/

amzn.com/B001F71O70

Also available at any hardware store for around $1. But the storage units I'm familiar with had the lights in each section on a timer. You would need to twist the dial on the timer for the units in your section every 15 minutes. This prevents someone from running a chest freezer all the time, for example

Leviton 61 660 Watt, 125 Volt, Polarized Outlet-to-Lampholder Adapter, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OM1L06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8t2DAbTB3EGT8

Plug a few of these into a power strip.

Also, if you need a way to plug it in, since it is an actual light bulb, you can grab one of these to use in an outlet, or power strip: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-61-Polarized-Outlet---Lampholder/dp/B001OM1L06/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1416090703&sr=8-4&keywords=light+socket+to+plug+adapter

You bet!

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-61-Polarized-Outlet-Lampholder/dp/B001OM1L06?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_12

Even cheaper - $1.99 haha. They have them at all hardware stores too.

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

The grow light is plugged into an outdoor outlet. If you have an outdoor light fixture, you can always try replacing the bulb with something like this. It might be ok with a low wattage device, although it's probably not up to code. I used them with Christmas lights before.

$4.15 adaptor @ Amazon.

He used This mains to usb adapter in combination with This bulb plug to mains adapter. (He linked them on his Thingiverse page.)

If you have an Edison bulb to outlet, you could get some power from the light bulb in each cabin. I would not suggest leaving it plugged in as it might be against the rules, especially when housekeeping comes by.

Use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54276-Polarized-Handy-Outlet/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523400350&sr=8-2&keywords=light+bulb+receptacle

Easiest, cheapest way to do it. Surprised a smart, superior guy like you couldn't figure that out on your own ;)

Use a Dual Bulb Socket Double Light "Y" Adaptor that allows for two "type A" light bulbs.
In one of the two sockets screw in a GE 54276 Polarized Handy Outlet Plug.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-54276-Polarized-Handy-Outlet/dp/B002DN6QX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458522458&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+in+receptacle

Anyone know where to find a simple socket to power outlet adapter like this with a switch (pull-chain etc). Something like this, but can be turned off and on.

I've bought one of these, but all similar products to this only switch the bulb socket on and off. I need something to switch an outlet socket.

I've considered these, but these but it also doesn't switch the outlet on/off.

Anything out there that will do what I'm lookin for?

appreciate it,

matt

I use these and they are excellent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RVKYR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NG14OPL35XMM

I coupled them with these to plug into existing sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I control all of mine with the switch on the wall, if I wanted to control them individually you could put these (or similar) on each set to individually control them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like the previous poster said, something like this would work well and low cost. [amazon link](First Alert PIR725 Motion Sensing Light Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QKS4Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q6v7xb00P0631)

You could use a hub+motion sensor+ smart bulb, but I would only recommend that approach if you will use the motion sensor for something else. Example: if away and motion, send a notification or if night/day set brightness to x/y percent. Otherwise you're probably wasting money and adding more things to potentially break down.

Another option, plug and play. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QKS4Z4/

Here is your solution. Just screw it into the light fixture and you're done! My garage is pretty dark, so having a motion activated light is pretty nice.

http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Quality-Socket-Photo-Adapter/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1403835250&sr=8-6&keywords=studio+light+4+socket here's what I'm using

well, I just ordered this, should make my life much easier. Thank you China!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

that actually makes sense lol. my plan is to have a 4 bulb socket hanging from the top and then two single bulbs hanging down around the sides once (hopefully she) starts growing.

So I used this: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Quality-Socket-Adapter-AGG882-/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469836205&sr=8-4&keywords=limostudio+light+socket
Sorry for the long address, but it work well and hasn't been effected by the moisture from my spray bottle. What are your concern, water getting into the socket?

The cheap video lighting kits are a bit under powered. They're useful for learning tools (mine came with 2 reflector umbrellas and 2 translucent umbrellas, but they're not 100% effective, and might end up bouncing light from around the room into your shot more than just from the surface of the umbrella. Additionally, one light behind one umbrella doesn't really overpower ambient window light the way I imagined it would. I was brand new to it so maybe they work well to fill in shadow, but i think a rig with multiple bulbs will be more effective at providing the controlled, directional light you may be looking for.

I ended up getting a pair of speedlight mounts to use them as off camera flash stands & modifiers which was fun; but since the umbrellas aren't huge, the height of the actual speed light is significantly off center so it's mainly the top half of the umbrella that's providing the most illumination. It's much better than a bare strobe, but I feel like it's not really using the full potential of the entire umbrella's surface to diffuse light. Something like this S-type bracket will hold a speedlight in the center of an octobox or another modifier, and that seems much more effective for strobe photography. It's not much more expensive, so it still pairs well with the light stands from the cheap video lighting kit as an upgrade.

Even as a not super effective intro kit, it's a decent baseline to get you shooting and practicing and figuring out what you'll need to find your shooting style. Kind of like how it's helpful to start with a kit lens before spending hundreds or thousands on a pro level camera/lens combo just to discover that I don't know shit about photography and expensive equipment is a budget overkill.

Those are all very good points. You may have made a convert of me lol.

I was hoping to avoid most of the wiring by using something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zRvTub1RG85R3

Link to bucket pics
I used:

• 2 Dayspot CFL 26W/64K, Equivalent to 130W, FLC26D 12 hours on 12 hours off
  
  
• 5 Fans SilverStone 120mm Fan Filter with Grill FF121 (Black)
  
  
• 1 AcuRite 00613A1 Indoor Humidity Monitor
  
  
• 1 Titan Controls 734150 Apollo 14 8-Outlet Power Strip with 24 Hour Timer, 120-volt
  
  
• 1 LimoStudio High Quality 4 Socket Photo Bulb Adapter - Converts 1 Socket into 4 - Use for Standard Socket Flourescent Bulbs, AGG882-A
  
  
• 3 LE® 12V Flexible LED Strip Lights Kit, LED Tape, 6000K Daylight White, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 73 Lumens/ft, Non Waterproof, 12 Volt LED Light Strips, Pack of 16.4ft/5m, All Accessories Included
  
  
• 2 Aluminium trash bins
  
  
• 2 rolls of duck tape
  
  
• and I use Figi and Evian water only because of balanced ph lvl and added minerals. Maybe a few Poland springs here and there when I was out of the other water.

I had a similar idea when I started my first bucket. It was a single plant bucket with a 4 way split of LED lights much like the ones you're thinking about. The main problem with the light set up was that it created way too much heat and heat stressed the plant so I switched to a UFO LED within a week.

My bucket had good airflow and currently maintains ~74 lights on with a UFO but with the 4 LED bulbs it was ~92 lights on. I'm not saying you can't do it but it would require a much better way to dissipate heat compared to a traditional setup
.
I grew 1 plant under 2 LED and 2 CFL (couldn't handle the 4 LED's heat) and temps were ~80 but the results weren't as good compared to my UFO grow which had less actual draw than the 4 bulbs.

Personally I still recommend going with a UFO LED, it might be a little more expensive but they are becoming much more affordable and if you get a product from china it will save you a lot. Aliexpress has some cheap lights, this light is 150W for 46USD.

However if you do decide to go with a 4 bulb adapter, I advise using this to avoid overloading 1 socket. Plus it has 2 on/off switches so you can control your bulbs seperately

Was wondering what would be my best option.

Currently looking at this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FGFLCXS/ref=pd_aw_sims_7?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Curious if this is my best option if trying to conserve energy and is this a good option for minimum heat.

Also took a glance at this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0091HO0FY&linkCode=as2&tag=spacbuck-20


Opinions?

Better, but I'd get a multi socket bulb adapter and some kind of fan. Also checkout www.growweedeasy.com and the sidebar of this sub and /r/spacebuckets for some more reading. Aluminum foil is not a good reflector of light, use mylar or even just white walls are better.

You could get a cheap generator like this, buy a DC to AC/USB Power Adapter, get a four socket light, plug them with these, and focus the light with this (with foil taped inside it to amplify and reflect the light).

So 4 CLF all together? This is just a test grow in theory to get stuff ready and so I know how to grow come next time. Would you recommend on of these? http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Socket-Adapter-Holder-Splitter/dp/B00HZV2938/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452620800&sr=8-2&keywords=light+socket+splitter

EDIT: Spelling

This. https://www.amazon.com/LED-Concepts%C2%AE-Control-Wireless-Fixtures/dp/B00L1P44R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474574191&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+light+socket+switch

https://www.amazon.com/LED-Concepts-Control-Wireless-Fixtures/dp/B00L1P44R8

HOLY SHIT BRO

Will an adapter from e12 to e26, or e27 work ?

example:

https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-5-Pack-Adapter-Chandelier-Converter/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511283005&sr=8-1&keywords=light+bulb+adapter

JACKYLED E12 to E26 E27 Adapter 5-Pack Chandelier Light Socket E12 to Medium Socket E26 E27 Converter Bulb Base Adapter Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bZJwCb5P40HM9

Huh. The manual does say A15. One of the reviewers says the sockets are candelabra (E12).

I saw a no-name E12 smart bulb at my local home depot a couple weeks ago, but I don't know anything about it, including whether I would trust it. You could Google for "E12 Smart Bulb" or "Candelabra Smart Bulb" - I'm not sure there's much out there.

If I were in your situation, I would look into either an E12-to-E26 adapter

OR

just replace the light kit entirely with one that has E26 sockets.

I don't believe so, but I was considering getting something like this for my ceiling fan fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapter-Chandelier-Converter-Resistant/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH199AQYDBPSDK8AJN4S

You can get E12 to E26 adapters. They do add a little height, not sure if it's enough to make the bulb stick up over the top of the shade.

I haven't used one but would an e12 adapter work in your lamp?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CisVCbHM8RPEV

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Not 100% sure these are the right ones, but I took a shot. I'll find out tomorrow. There were two different ones. The "E12 to E26" and the "E17 to E26". The 12s looked closer to my old bulbs.

I guess you could use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Candelabra-Adapter-Converter-Convert-Chandelier/dp/B013QO15GE

I don’t have any in my house ever since I replaced the old ceiling fans with smart ones. I can imagine they’d be annoying

I used IKEA e12 smart bulbs that are supposed to be similar to Hue in functionality but they suck and I don’t recommend them.

They are E12 to E26 adapters available and that would let you use your Hue bulb(s).


LE E12 to E26 Light Socket Adapter, Bulb Base Converter, Pack of 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013QO15GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RJ0vDbWZ4SKTT

Nope, this bulb fits any standard outlet. Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-Lighting/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539843203&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=socket+light&dpPl=1&dpID=41LHMX9N9CL&ref=plSrch

7x https://www.dollartree.com/search/go?w=Led%20light

Cut off the plastic domes

Get a 7 way socket splitter

Toplimit 7 Light Bulb Splitter Socket,Engery Saving Lamps E26 Base, Adaptor Conventer for Standard LED E26 E27 Bulbs,Garage Intensified Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKIE6M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2b86BbJGRJD5D

A corded socket
JACKYLED Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable UL 12Ft 360W with E26 E27 Socket On/Off Button + Hooks + 2-Prong AC Power Plugs Pendant Lighting for Kitchen Bedroom Plant Growth light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9c86BbDMSQS06

Assemble it all and it will look like this http://imgur.com/gallery/1eZwTCt

If your lucky you can get 1 gram per watt. So 63 grams. I'd advise against the foil and use mylar. You can get it at walmart for a dollar sold as emergency blankets. The reason is foil is a very poor reflector but good at reflecting heat. Which you dont want.

You can use the cardboard box but I would find a plastic tote to use or even a 5 gallon bucket.

Now for nutrients.

General hydroponics flora series micro General Hydroponics FloraMicro, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKDFAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sl86BbFS7BVY3

General hydroponics flora series bloom
General Hydroponics FloraBloom Fertilizer, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y36AOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Im86Bb6ECWXT3

Use the lucas formula which is 6ml of micro and 9ml of bloom. From seed to harvest.

I bought something similar to this https://smile.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-Hanging-Lantern-2-Prong/dp/B016MDPWL0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1478705405&sr=8-8&keywords=light+plug. Then I cut the plug off, ran it through the fixtures pipes, and wired it to the electrical in the wall.

Final resolution:

+72 hours later after the "downloading" status appeared, the "Upgrade" green box finally appeared at the top of the software update screen.

All upgrading finished soon after that.

Exception: The Hue BR30 flood lights that turn only only via motion sensor. I guess these lights will never be upgraded. Or, until I find someone willing to make motion under them for 72 hours straight :-). Or, until I hire an electrician or someone else with an extra tall ladder to get them down. (not me! - I don't climb ladders bigger than closet shelf height since I saw my friend's life changed by a 10' ladder accident)

2 Morals of the story:

1. For most Hue lights, I should just be patient for upgrading. It can take 72+ hours after you see the "downloading" status before the "Upgrade" button appears. And I get 150Mbps download speeds.
   
   
2. Before I install Hue lights in hard to reach places, I will upgrade them using this
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MDPWL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   (like I now do before installing anywhere)
   and add their serial numbers to my Hue lights spreadsheet (columns: lights type, location, serial #)

Update:

I got three Philips 23W CFLs (6500K) in a 2'Wx1'Dx1'H box. The light is hanging from a 3-way splitter and a cable. By the way, the 3-way splitter barely fits in the space once all CFLs are in place. If I were to redo the setup, I would rather get two 2-way splitters and one more cable. I don't like how my CFLs touch the walls now, but it shouldn't be a problem.

The inner walls of the box are covered with Mylar. For reflective Mylar sheets, I recommend a cheap emergency blanket instead of hydroponics stuff. They work all the same, and these shouldn't cost more than a few dollars. My box also has a Mylar flap to cover about half of the front opening of the box. I can close it all the way, but won't keep it covered more than a couple hours at a time due to the box heating up. It's probably fine, the flap is flabby and still lets plenty of air in and out, but I'm just being extra careful. I have a cheap USB fan directed at the lights to help cool them down a bit. The air above the lights gets pretty warm without a fan.

The whole setup is on a timer for 14 hours a day, just like my previous setup. Let's see if the pretty stress colors on my Echeveria comes back in a month or so.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016MDPWL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500941120&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lamp%2Bsocket%2Bwith%2Bcord&dpPl=1&dpID=41F%2BSLsNPhL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I used that once. Works well. Be sure to use a led bulb

yeah, I think its just easier to suspend and adjust a shoplight fixture on chains to cover a decent size area. How can you do that with bulbs?

I saw this on the page for the bulbs that you linked.

Someone on here once posted these and I use them in my basement. Keeps bulbs out of way in similar application and added a TON more light to my unfinished basement with 4 x 100W equivalent LED:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDC5U

this works nicely in my smaller veg box.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDDC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this might help with the power aspect but note that you couldn’t use anything with a ground pin.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAE56S

you can buy splitters that allow you to plug multiple bulbs into one e26/27 socket. amazon has a 7-1 for about $10. Put some 23w CFL lights in them, so your getting closer to 160w per splitter. you can also by Y splitters. While 6500K isn't bad advice and i use them all the time, with 7 bulbs you can put different color temps in it and get a wider range. It's important to note that our sun is around 5500K. good luck. with this set up youll get a cool running 160w grow light for around $30 depending on bulbs in your area (i paid $8 for 4 23w CFLs). heres a link to the splitter i was talking about:

Toplimit 7 Light Bulb Splitter Socket,Engery Saving Lamps E26 Base, Adaptor Conventer for Standard LED E26 E27 Bulbs,Garage Intensified Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKIE6M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SVc9BbCQHZ276

Can you use WiFi socket adapters instead? I'm not sure what socket size that is, but could one of these could possibly be a solution?

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Adapter-Required-HomeKit/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494267259&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=wifi+light+socket&psc=1

Would items (1) and (2) below work with an Apple TV 4th gen to accomplish the task?

(1) https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-HomeKit-Android-Amazon/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480928409&sr=8-1&keywords=homekit+smart+plug+energy+monitoring

(2) https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Adapter-HomeKit-Android/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480929296&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=homekit+smart+bulb+wifi

good idea. This is kind of what I used and then the stand and box are 3 bucks from menards or whatever. actually i bet you could find the other thing from there too

I'm not sure how big of the area for that LED cluster. You might be able to replace it with a bulb cable thingy (example) and use one of those smart bulbs (example).

You would hot glue one of these into a big nut, then glue the nut onto the 4-square box:

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Extension-Hanging-Included/dp/B01LFYVW7O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFYVW7O

Just this one

8T8 E26 E27 7 in 1 LED Light... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06ZZ6RY4H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yikes! Here's the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/8T8-Splitter-Standard-Converter-Commercial/dp/B06ZZ6RY4H/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1YTSXE2IBSZ3M&keywords=7+in+1+bulb+adapter&qid=1550629050&s=gateway&sprefix=7+in+1++bulb%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-6

So far it's worked fine. No flicker or abnormally hot, etc. Seems fairly well constructed and I've been running it for the past 8 days 24/0 with no issues.

Sorry for the late response.

Here is what I used when I was starting out a new small setup recently:

A fixture like this

And

[7 of these GE bulbs (totaling 119w actual of LEDs, which is close to a small QB)](http://www.GE.com/ Lighting Refresh LED HD 17-watt (100-watt Replacement), 1600-Lumen A21 Light Bulb with Medium Base, Daylight, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ELAQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DAN6Cb86RB3N9)

You remove the domes because the domes are designed to diffuse the light so it's not hard on your eyes. This is the opposite of we want for our purposes. Just geeently pry the dome off with a thin knife, being careful not to push the knife through the bottom of the dome. What you'll be left with, is seven small circular quantum boards built in to lightbulbs. They won't work as well as the Samsung 301b diodes, but they're world's better than a bunch of CFLs.

No pics of it here but its simple.

A three foot long 2x4

2 of these https://www.homedepot.ca/product/iberville-ceiling-box-15-in-cu/1000106192

2 of these https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UeHw.jpg

and 2 of these https://www.amazon.ca/8T8-Splitter-Standard-Converter-Commercial/dp/B06ZZ6RY4H/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=light+splitter&qid=1558648864&s=gateway&sr=8-10

I purchased an extension cord and hacked of the female end and wired the two sockets with household lighting and appliance wire (romex 14 guage i think it was) I had lying around.

​

pretty janky but it works. Eventually Ill replace it with another 240w QB

If you have more of the clamp lamps, just get some more bulbs. Or you can get something like [this] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076S6927J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r0cZAbMKZDBX3) and get more bulbs.




My set up is kind of similar to yours. My dear sweet husband heard me saying I needed some grow lights for my seeds this year since we're in the actual north with an actual winter. So get got me some light bulbs kind of like yours and some clamp lights. Yeah, that was enough for like 8 seedlings. As the seedlings grew, I ended up getting some of the converters and more bulbs. And I have about 20 seedlings growing fairly happily under it with some room to spare.

Does the garage have a light? Ive used an extension cord plus one of these in a similar situation before.

I'm surprised no one told you about these. That + some sticky wall hooks to hold them. They're relatively cheap (cheaper at your local hardware store than amazon) and seem to be just what you're talking about.

Another popular one is to get a power strip mounted inside the box and then get some of these to hold the lights.

Unless you're talking about not wanting the plug even to leave the box? I can't imagine a scenario in which you don't have to have a hole for some wires to get in...

Maybe this kind of vagueness is why you didn't get much of a response to start with lol.

You want to get to minimum 50w per square foot HID/LED (100w sq/ft for CFL) so you need to make up another 85 watts or 170 watts of CFL. A 6 pack of 100w equivalent should do the job.

Grab a couple surge strips and 6 of these for a cheapish way to power the bulbs.

You could also get yourself a 150w HID and be good to go for a larger plant next go around.

You can just mount some hooks in the beams above to position the hanging light wherever you like... Then you can get one of these to plug it into, using the current light socket.

Is there an overhead lightbulb socket you can pirate electricity from?

Onite E26 to 2 Outlet Light Socket Splitter Adapter Black, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAE56S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r32tDbRG1FJS4