Best lighting accessories according to redditors

We found 299 Reddit comments discussing the best lighting accessories. We ranked the 137 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Wall plates
Under-counter fixture mounting products
Home lighting ceiling medallions
Lamp finials
Lighting low voltage transformers
Ceiling fan pull chains
Ceiling fan pull chain ornaments
Fixture replacement globes & shades
Lighting fixture downrods & stems
Lighting fixture chains

Top Reddit comments about Lighting Accessories:

u/thisismytreesact · 12 pointsr/Dynavap

GOLDEDIT: omg my first gold! Thanks anon!


How it looks now:

Parts list (canadian, but you can find everything on amazon and/or ebay, or locally):

Heater Board and Coil:

MOSFET Relay (for operating the momentary switch): (if you want to do this project with NO SOLDERING you could get this higher wattage MOSFET relay)

Power Supply (or if you have one from an xbox 360 it'll work) This one also includes the female jack:

Glass tube:

Main power switch:

Momentary Switch to activate the coil ONLY while pressed:

You'll also need some 18ga stranded wire, an enclosure, and some soldering skills/equipment.

u/pwnsauce · 10 pointsr/Hue

Hey everyone, I didn't have the forethought to take photos as I went along, but here's how I did it. Fair warning; this project requires an intermediate amount of soldering experience. If you have surface mount soldering experience, you'll be golden. If you don't, make sure you can handle sacrificing a few light strip segments for this project :)

  1. De-solder the sections of an existing Hue Light Strip. The first half of this video shows how to separate the sections. In the video, he uses a soldering iron. I used a hot air gun to desolder mine; I found the hot air gun approach easier.
  2. Keep careful track of the start and end sections of each strip; you cannot reverse them! Each segment has "PHILIPS" printed on it in blue letters. To help me keep track, I always kept the PHILIPS logo facing upright. At the end of the original light strip, Philips added a female 6-pin connector, so I used female connectors for the end of my segments and male connectors at the beginning. Philips used surface mount contacts with 2mm spacing, which is a lesser-used spacing standard. I bought these for the male end of each segment, and these for the female end.
  3. Break the headers into 6-pin sections. The male ones are easy to break apart with a vice and a pair of pliers. The female headers were a bit more difficult; I held them in a vice and hacksawed them into sections. Then I used a dremel to clean up the messy cut. Someone mentioned using this cut-end to 6-pin product to save on soldering, but I chose to solder each end of the strip. Since the connections will be under some tension when they're bent at 90 degrees, I wanted to make sure they were 100% solid.
  4. Solder the 6-pin connectors to each end of your cut strips. If the female headers were too difficult to break apart or solder, you can technically use male ends on both sides of the strip. Litecessory's cables can be converted to either female-female or male-female.
  5. Spread hot glue over the solder joints to prevent them from making incidental contact with other conductors and to give the connectors more strength.
  6. Use pre-made 2mm 6-pin cables (2 inch, 3 feet) to make your strip as long or as short as you need! When connecting segments, make sure to connect them in the same polarity, such that pins 1-6 on one segment are connected to pins 1-6 on the next segment. If you flip the cable, connecting 1-6 -> 6-1, at best your segment won't light up; at worst it'll fry it for good.
u/ThimeeX · 9 pointsr/homelab

A few things to consider:

  1. Yes, it's possible to get 220/240V in an American house, in fact most modern houses have a higher voltage connection in the laundry (for the dryer) as well as for electric stoves. These appliances use a special plug, that you can get from most home improvement stores.
  2. Beware that even though you can get 220V, the frequency is different. USA uses 60Hz, while most of the rest of the world uses 50Hz. This could affect your power supply if it's not designed for multi frequency.
  3. Check with a licensed electrician if there are no code restrictions where you live, hopefully the only requirement is to have a GFI type breaker if you're installing in a place that could get wet.
  4. Be prepared to pay an electrician about $1000-$1500 to bring in a new circuit from your breaker box, I had this done in my basement to support some reflowing equipment (for fixing BGA CPU's) that required 220V circuit.
  5. You technically could do it yourself, however since you stated "no clue when it comes to electricity", I'd get a licensed pro in to do it (else the results could be rather shocking... haha)

    After all that - are sure it's not easier just to get a 110V rated PSU for your equipment instead? Doing this is probably a lot cheaper/easier that trying to hook up 220V... Or how about one of these bad boys? Here's another great article that you might enjoy reading on the subject.
u/redlotusaustin · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

u/Jarvicious · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Out of curiosity, what are you using these for? 11.5 watts per meter is a pretty high current requirement and your light output is going to likely be high to match. 11.5 watts per meter would yield ~57.5w for the entire 5m strip and require a minimum of 4.8A for power supply.

For reference, I bought these for our under cabinet lighting which are rated at 2.6 watts per foot or ~42w per 16'. This would require a minimum 3.5A power supply for the entire strand, though individual power supplies may be used. I don't have it all hooked up currently, but I'm using a 12v/1A psu for ~4.5' and it's barely enough.

The relationship between power, current and voltage is easy. Current = Power/Voltage. In the case of the strand you linked, 11.5w/M times 5 meters will equal 57.5 watts for the entire strand, or the power requirements for that particular model. 57.5(power) divided by 12v (voltage) gives you 4.8A of current consumption at full tilt. It's generally good to over supply your power so to run the entire thing on one supply you'd need a 5.5-6A psu. With that kind of current draw, you also have to consider the wiring needed. 18awg wire is generally rated at 7a, but that depends on the length of wire you need (to compensate for voltage drop), how its insulated, and how many wires will be carrying the load.

Generally, any basic 12v power supply will work. I have mine hooked up to a random old 12v wall wart, but you can get led specific drivers like this which have the transformer built in as well as overload protection and sometimes thermal protection. You can also get them up to 150w to run, say, a large kitchen with crown lighting, under cabinet lighting, and kick plate lighting. I've also read about people doing entire decks/patios with the larger PSUs.

As far as connecting them to the power or each other, you will either need to solder lines between them or buy brand specific connectors like these which have power connectors, direct connectors and 6" extension connectors. No soldering required and trust me, they're worth it.

tl;dr - Get a 6a psu or transformer for the entire strand or numerous smaller psu's if you want individual lights on individual circuits (say for switching purposes). FYI, a power supply with more than 6a (or whatever you need for "X" feet of light) won't hurt the lights. The lights only draw what they need. The amperage rating on a psu is simply the capacity, not the amount of current its pushing to the load.

u/ShingamiOfSmarm · 6 pointsr/DIY

LED strips are wonderful for that. Amazon sells them.
I used LED strips attached to an outdoor light-sensistive timer put on top of the cabinets, so I have light-sensitive LED underlighting.
Quick shot of my lighting

[strip] (
power source
I put mine near the front of the cabinet, so they wouldn't ever be visable. If you want a wider range of light, put them closer to the back, and they'll cover the whole cabinet.
Good luck!

u/Oclure · 6 pointsr/DIY

you may have to plug both strips in to the controller with a splitter or by splicing as daisy chaining the strips end to end may cause the last LEDs on the chain to be noticeably dimmer than the first due to resistance.

Edit looking at it again I was assuming all white for the power supply rgb has the potential to exceed that limit. Try these I've had a lot of luck with them and they are well made.

That's a 60w version, there's also a 150w version if you really want to go crazy, I've powered a kitchen with an obscene amount of built in lighting with one.

Also you may need a barel plug for the power supply if not hard wiring.

u/papermatthew · 6 pointsr/drums

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got:

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this:

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

u/tcpip4lyfe · 6 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Not really. I built a few of these for my closet. Got a led strip, 24v psu, and a couple magnetic switches for less than $50. Had enough to do the entire closet, couple drawers, and the underside of my kitchen cabinets. Those little LED strips are fucking handy.

u/Turbopanzer9 · 6 pointsr/porterrobinson

Sorry for the late response!

I bought 40 meters worth of ws2812B LED strips (a type of LED strip that can be programmed). You can get these for pretty cheap of Amazon. Then, I used the adhesive on the back of the LEDs to stick them in these special LED mounting racks that I could mount on to some metal storage shelves.

To interface with the LEDs, I'm using a Pixlite Controller like this one. The cool thing about these controllers is that they can output DMX (DMX is the protocol used to control those big fancy lights you see at concerts) in addition to driving LEDs. Then the programming and sequencing is done in Lightjams. In addition to being the best low budget software for LED pixel programing, Lightjams can also be used to program any DMX fixture.

So I got 5 the cheap DMX moving head lights and controlled them with Lightjams too.

I knew if I wanted to pull of this song, I was going to need lasers, but DMX lasers are stupid expensive. Soooo I had to get a little unconventional. I ordered some sketch cheap Chinese lasers that I wired to a DMX relay. I mounted the lasers to the shelves using camera clamps and controlled them in Lightjams too.

Figuring out how to do all this and building it took me about 6 months. Then, programming took another few months. I am actually working on programing an entire set of songs from the Worlds tour. I am nearly done, and it's about an hour long! I'll be sure to post it here when it's done!

I appreciate the interest, let me know if you want any additional info!

u/zoel_jimmerman · 5 pointsr/deadmau5

The two ways I know of to get a good spherical head are either using 1. a hamster ball or 2. acrylic globes.

I made one with a hamster ball several years ago and the material was relatively easy to work with when using a dremel for cutting the holes. The problem with the hamster ball is that when you cut the neck hole you weaken the entire structure of the thing and allows it to flex alot which makes it feel like a shitty end result. Imagine the black line being an exaggerated cut line for the neck hole and you will see what I mean. Another issue with the hamster ball is that I have only seen 13 in variants and the official dimensions of the mau5 head calls for a 14in sphere.

The best quality diy mau5 heads I have seen usually use the acrylic globes. They wont have the same issue the hamster ball, as it shouldnt be able to flex as much when you remove material. The issue you could have with using acrylic is that acrylic can easily crack if you are not careful depending on the thickness of the material (thicker is less likely to crack). If you go with this route make sure you get have a high speed dremel and some THIN cutting bits. In the end if you pull it off you will probably be most satisfied if you go this route and is about the same price as a hamster ball and should last you alot longer. Just make sure you give yourself at least a couple months so you can work on it here and there because it will take longer than you expect it to your first time crafting one.

You may want to check out /r/mau5head as well.

u/TheGeorge · 4 pointsr/homestuck

I'd suggest going Deadmau5 technique, much comfier and lighter too. Buy a Acrylic Globe to start.

I'll try and find a link in a sec, oh and go and ask /r/cosplayers they're super helpful.

link (I like this one more)
and link

u/Jdalf5000 · 4 pointsr/DIY

"Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding)."

You need a 12 volt adapter. Find one for purchase.

u/wietoolow · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

u/darkfaust · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I bought this driver:

These LEDs:

And this is the result:

The LEDs installed real easy, the adhesive is strong and I've not had any problems in 6 months of use

u/Notevenspecial · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/led

You can get aluminum channels with frosted covers to mount your LED strips in.


Here is an alternate idea I have been kicking around for a while for creating a cheap and easy LED strip light diffuser, but I have never tried it: The materials are parchment paper and 2" wide clear packing tape. You can probably find both of these at your local grocery store. You will also need a hand saw and a miter box.

Remove the parchment paper roll from its cardboard package and make a pencil mark one inch from the end of the roll. Holding the roll gently but firmly against one side of the miter box, cut off the end of the roll at the mark using a hand saw (avoid power tools for this operation). Unroll the resulting one inch wide roll of parchment paper and secure in place over the LED strip with a length of 2" wide clear packing tape.

u/SirEDCaLot · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

Just read your question again.

There are no cameras I'm aware of that can accept a direct 120v input with no transformers. I doubt very much you will find one- no security installer wants to deal with 120v power (so there isn't much market for such a thing), and it would greatly increase the cost of the camera.

The closest I'm aware of is there used to be 120v powered camera enclosures that would internally supply 12-24vdc for an analog camera. Those however have gone the way of the dodo bird, because if you are in such extreme environments that you need a heated camera, there are now lots of PoE powered heated cameras available.

However, if you want to use installed cable only, that doesn't mean you're SOL.

Get a 120v hardwired power supply like this one. It's designed for LEDs but it should drive a 12v camera no problem. Put that in an external waterproof box and wire it up and you're good to go.

u/daloosecannon · 3 pointsr/Tiki

A couple different ways depending on how you want them ran.
If you have a 12v patio light transformer/timer you could just cut each bulb out and wire in a socket and then put in a led bulb after that cut off the plug and splice on a wire and run it to the 12v patio box.
If no patio box you would need a 120v ac to 12v DC converter where you would cut if the plug and splice it to the converter.
Also depending on what type of bulb is in there you may be able to find just the bulbs and change them.
Take a picture of the bulb and socket so I can see what type of base it is

u/cleansweep9 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm not the person you replied to, but I've been using the older version of these for about two years. Alexa integration was added about 8 months ago, if I remember right.

This is the version I have, and it works just like voice commands for hue or LIFX.

They work with LED strips like this one which aren't as nice as the Hue strips, but are considerably cheaper.

u/customflip · 3 pointsr/deadmau5

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.




-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]


Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.


Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.


u/nfhiggs · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Go to a big box store and look for household LED lightbulbs - you can often find four packs of the 14-16W bulbs for $10-$15. Get two. Then order a 7 way socket splitter like this one

Make sure you get warm white bulbs, not cool white.

u/asdfoliver · 3 pointsr/deadmau5

Amazon has them right here.

I can give you a link to the instructions I used too if you so desire.

u/tehshortbus · 3 pointsr/DIY

I know I'm not really answering your question here... but we just installed 5 more foot of cabinet space and my wife wanted some under cabinet lighting. I looked on Amazon and most of the stuff was pretty expensive.

I opted instead to do LED strip lighting and ordered 32' of it + transformer + dimmer for the same price as 24" of any of the other solutions. The pluses are:

  • LED strips can be cut into 2" sections so you can cut it to length (soldering is required but very minor and simple)
  • The strips have sticky back so you can stick it right under the counter. I used some glue to help some parts stay but not too necessary.
  • Very low voltage and power consumption.
  • Wires are easy to hide

    Pics are here:

    Here's what I got:

    Transformer/Power Supply

    Warm White LED Strips (16ft)

    Dimmer w/Wireless Remote

    I used 2x 16ft strips and it worked just fine. Came up to a total of $63.25
u/jrodwhit · 3 pointsr/Hue

You can do the whole kitchen using one Hue base/power source (you need at least one $90 base in order to control the lights). I used these Litesessory extensions+splitters:

If you need to cut a strip, use these split end connectors as well:

u/MaxSupernova · 2 pointsr/cosplayers

In a word: no.

Epoxy will be difficult to use because in order for it to be strong enough, it will have to be quite thick, which will be expensive and very, very heavy. Keeping bubbles and such out of it will be difficult too.

It will be very brittle, and prone to cracks or breaking on any impact.

Epoxy is great to paint on stuff to strengthen it, but the strength of fiberglass is in the cloth, not the epoxy.

/u/Sporkicide has it right. Look for a plastic/acrylic globe. You can paint the inside so the outside stays shiny, and you can use whatever paint you want to keep it translucent for lights to show through.

Searching for "Clear Acrylic Globe" got me this as the first hit. There are lots of different sizes.

u/reddit455 · 2 pointsr/instantpot

you would need to get something specialized.. the ones for your hair dryer in the travel kit aren't rated for sustained high draw.


call a german electrician.


you need a step down converter rated for 1500W or so


this one is 5k watts max

u/Renz2LK · 2 pointsr/cosplay

Search around for large plastic 'sphere' or 'globe'. Even acrylic sphere/globe. Some craft stores have them as well. There's this one on Amazon Not sure if a 14" sphere is what you're looking for, but it may work. For the bottom parts, use EVA foam and some tubing you can find from most major hardware stores. Please make sure you factor in some ventilation somewhere, you don't want to suffocate.

u/AlanFlusser · 2 pointsr/Hue
u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

Horizontal bulbs may not be as effective as placing them vertically with something like this.

Sources(readings from a par meter on bottom of fish tank):

u/Cha1upaBatman88 · 2 pointsr/Hue

I have not personally tried, but the reviews on this indicate that it will work.

u/JoeB- · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

  1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
  2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
  3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
  4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.

    I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.

    If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.
u/mehuman · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Yup. I use this one because of the ir remote

I don't know your specific need but you can trigger with times with specific levels. To get smooth motion use the transition with the automation.

u/hoeskioeh · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

A cheap version of these LEDs
They come in a variety of shapes and material and blinking vs non-blinking...

Source: I bought a similar pack for a party.

u/fuzzy_one · 2 pointsr/cosplay

I have had good luck with acrylic globes like this one from Amazon. they come in different diameters, and take paint well.

u/sleezly · 2 pointsr/Hue

I haven't tried but it seems you'd be able to use this:
Splitter for Philips Hue LightStrip Plus (2 Pack, White)

u/sadtdow · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

To power your controller and LED strip, you'll need a power supply/transformer like, LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207

The positive/12v cable connects to the PWR slot on the Fibaro, along with the positive cable from your power supply.

The longer the LED strip, the more wattage you'll need off the transformer.

I've found the above 30w to power a full 20 foot run easily.

u/Ms_KnowItSome · 2 pointsr/askanelectrician

It's a garbage power supply. Buy a decent one. Definitely make sure you don't overload it with too long of a strip. A 5 meter 12V strip usually needs 60W. Any fraction smaller than that and you can get a smaller power supply. If these words don't mean anything to you then you need to get learning on youtube.

I've had good luck with the 30W and 60W versions of this:

u/rainbowunicornjake · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

It's not quite the USB route but Prehaps if you used a benchtop PSU, you could power just about any regulated mod you'd like to (they're expensive)

You could use something like this and then connect it to a ge raptor120 and set the voltage to 4V with a pot. and then power any single cell regulated device you wanted, dna40/75. you could also use the raptor to directly power your vape without the board.

I realize that's not the most convenient or direct route, but you're not going to easily get a USB plug to give your 20V and than you still have to make that usable. The tried and true method would be a computer PSU and a dna200/250/c, but you're looking at spending a pretty penny. Same if you were to try to buy a bench top adjustable PSU


Another option is since you're not using much power, you could get a dna250/c or a dna75c and plug it into a regular usb port, the 2A (10W) charger should be able to keep up with you vaping on it.


I think part of the issue with using USB-C is; the cables arn't rated to handle vaping current, and the chargers are.. 'intelligent' assuming you got the charger to push out it's maximum voltage of 20V, you still have the issue of dropping that voltage to something usable by a vape. most of the common buck converters you'll find that meet the 30W power are either 6/12/24 volts.

u/scorp508 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

> Power Supply: ($14 x 3)

I like the compactness of this supply and I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I have about 6 of romex coming from the backsplash wall to each current set of halogen under cabinet lights, which is somewhat limiting where I can relocate the power supply without dealing with pulling new wire. These are small enough where I may be able to just keep them under the cabinet. Thanks for the part links.

u/johnaldmilligan · 2 pointsr/robotics
u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant


With great success. Have them around the TV in my den. They work great with Home Assistant.

u/Alex3M3TI8 · 2 pointsr/Hue

I had a shelving unit that had built in fluorescent tubes. Now, granted it is an accent shelf, and each shelf was approximately 20" x 18". The fluorescent tubes were on the 20" sides, and there was no lighting on the 18" sides. I used Hue Gen 2 light strips all the way around on all three shelves, and the light (without all the CRI calculations) passed the "wife test". No discernible difference at full power detected. (SCORE!).

I also didn't care for the dots of each LED, so I put the Hue lightstrips into these:

These are super easy to cut with a handsaw, easy to install, and nicely diffuse the LED light and protect the strips.

Where I needed a non-lit extension (such as between each shelf), I used these:

And finally whenever there was a junction, I used white electrical tape to make sure the two strips stayed affixed. Just a small bit to wrap around the joint.

u/Synssins · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Two channels of light (two controllers, two lights per controller)...

Controller (wifi, requires firmware flash to work with SmartThings):

Power supply:

u/moeschberger · 2 pointsr/woodworking

So the panels are just pieces of finish quality ply, with different items attached.

Panel 1 has a counter bell from a kitchen supply store (the top comes off and I screw through the base to attach it. Just make sure that you place clapper of the bell so that gravity holds it down.)

Panel 2. The sparkly letters are duck tape. There's a scrub sponge and a piece of sandpaper..

Panel 3 is just general hardware, plus a retracing key ring that I get at Lowes. If you ask the key guy for miscuts, he'll probably have a box full to give you.

Panel 4: I bent a sprayed a piece of round stock, then punched a hole through a dowel, which I then cut into the sliders.

Panel 5. You can buy little spring clips, a D-ring and chain, hook them together and it clicks and rattles.

The LEDs were a real learning experience. LEDs run on DC, so you need an transformer to step the 120V AC from an outlet down to 12VDC. (I used this one: I mounted it in the end with the LEDs (you can tell how deep that area is, that's to give it all room to breathe) I used little pucks to keep it from being against the wood, because if you leave it plugged in for hours at a time, it does get hot. Power exits from that into the switches (which are just standard house units),in parallel then into the LEDs, which are wired in series.

LEDs will self-limit. That means (as far as I could teach myself) that if you string the right number together, they don't need resistors to regulate them, or they need very small resistors. I used to calculate. (FWIW, I miscalculated at some point and exploded a string). Small loss.

LEDs run cool, so once I had them all in place, I just epoxied them into the end plate. and heat shrunk all of the wiring. Then I connected the switches and closed up the box.

I think. It's been more than a year since I did it. Of course, I should have written everything down and taken progress pictures, but alas....

(I mostly used the power of google on how to wire the LEDs, as far as power and mounting boards.)

u/pheen · 2 pointsr/DIY

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

  • 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  • 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  • PWM Dimmer

    The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)
u/kushincanada · 2 pointsr/Dynavap

Power supply link

I also used a 12mm fire button, a mini slide on off switch and 18awg wire from and an enclosure was just from the dollar store.

I tried to wire in an led from analogboxmods as well, but I think it burnt it out so I just took that right out of the build.

You will also need to solder a few spots but it's not too hard to do at all, some connections are just screw in though.

u/drtonmeister · 2 pointsr/electricians

Yes, if you find the transformer, then replacing it with a 12v transformer that has a minimum rating below the draw of your LED lamps will make them work.
They are 3W each, so all six would be 18W, but I'm sure they rounded up. I'd make sure the minimum rating of the new transformer is below 15W just to be sure if you go with a transformer designed for halogen lights, or just go with one designed for led lights that is more than 18W as its max rating.

u/danger_moose · 1 pointr/Hue

I soldered mine but had some experience, however afterwards I discovered there are connectors to be found such as

I'm sure I saw connector to RJ45 on eBay once so you can connect over distance with standard car cable.

u/prideofpomona · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)

LED Lights: ($8)

Diffusers: ($26)

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

u/docmeow · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

More like this. Just trim off the end and splice the wires together. If this isn't something you are comfortable with, I'd return it and get a single unit strip + power supply.

I suppose a 12V battery would work, but it wont run for very long

u/jnsonger · 1 pointr/Hue

Thanks! I've been curious about that but haven't been brave enough to separate the strip myself.
For the extra connector, try these:

u/meridianblade · 1 pointr/deadmau5

Hampster ball will work, but it wont be smooth looking. If you can wait on shipping, here's the globe I bought:

I originally bought it from 1000bulbs for like 16 bucks but they just recently jacked it up to over $50! a piece, guess they caught on to all the orders lol.

u/elementalist467 · 1 pointr/DIY

I recommend modifying it to use a standard household bulb. You are essentially building a sconce. I would look into something like these plus a 12V PSU like this. You will also need a socket like this.

u/Traxxien · 1 pointr/anime

Nice choice to start. I wouldn't have offered information about the lighting without being willing to share.

I found this LED srtip on amazon. The LED strip came with the controller box, the remote and the correct size barrel adaper. It is a 12V set up. But it didn't come with an actual power adapter so I found this one. Unfortunately, the adhesive that is on the back of the LED strip loses it grip to the strip. I removed the adhesive by hand an I used this tape, which is on the expensive side but I worked with it at an old job and it will not fail. You will also need a soldering iron, solder, and some 22 AWG wire.

Before I replaced the adhesive, I had measured out the strip into the lengths that I need and cut along one of these lines. You will need to remove rubber coating that is over the pads. I used wires to bridge the sections of the strip that needed to be spaced out. I also had the wire measured out to bridge the levels on the shelf also. I located the strip right against the front face of the shelves to hide it from view as you can see from the last image.

If there is anything else that you have a question about let me know. I will admit that it was a time consuming and a bit of a pain in the ass. But it worked out well.

u/blue_gabe · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Yeah, I'm using 12v2a, so I'll upgrade my power supply.

Would this be overkill?

u/mircolino · 1 pointr/Gledopto

Do the Philips Hue LED strips have the same connector width and pitch? If so something like this would solve my problem:

u/Felger · 1 pointr/BoltEV

You know, I've considering trying to get 2.8-ish kW out of a TT-30 by using a step-up transformer in line, to turn it from 120x30 to a 240x15. Something like this should work:

The idea being, split the 120v into two-phase 240v and cutting the current in half. You trick the Bolt into pulling about twice as much power from the outlet.

u/greypumpkin · 1 pointr/weddingplanning

here you go !! They have a blue version and a yellow version. Good luck!

u/HoboSteaux · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Thanks! They were the first ones we put in - the BoM was super cheap too:

2 - LED rolls @ $11.64 (really used 1 1/4 of em)

1 - transformer @ $15.50

1 - connectors for the corners @ $4.99

Total cost was about $50.

The second set (under the sink and rangetop) is in parallel to the first because while the transformer could handle 1 1/2 strands, a continuous run may only be one strand

u/nuggetbram · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I was thinking more like this, unless you want to be able to switch to 5v to test FCs etc, you probably don't need a variable supply. Quads will generally run very happily on 12v (about 3S)

u/kennja · 1 pointr/electricians

I'm assuming you're from the States. I'm based in the UK, had a look on the American amazon and found this. It should work.

LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207

u/Boulderado · 1 pointr/Hue

These are "UL listed," though I'm not certain that means they are for "in-wall" use:

Extension Cable for Philips Hue LightStrip Plus (3ft/1m, 2 Pack, White)

u/AtomicFlx · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Of course LED strips or rope will work, but what about colored spotlights instead? Just throw a few around the yard pointed at the house in various Christmas colors and you are done.

If you do install LED strips, I would consider installing them in LED tracks to keep them safer so you dont have as much maintenance (the glue on LED strips sucks donkey balls) and they will look cleaner.

They come in flat

and corner that would work really nicely under rain gutters.

u/Grundag · 1 pointr/Hue

If the measurements work for you, there are 3rd party extension cables that would let you span the space occupied by the extractor without having cut/splice/solder any strips

Best of luck!

u/droans · 1 pointr/Hue

If you're just looking for automation through Alexa, you can use this plus a strip. It needs its own app to function, though, doesn't work through the Hue app. It will not work through Google Home either unless you use HomeAssistant.

Ended up costing me about $35 for 10m of 5050 LED strips plus the controller.

All you'll need to do is replace your current controller, follow the booklet to set up the wifi, install the app and login, and then add it to your system.

u/HornyPrincePineapple · 1 pointr/smarthome

Sorry, I was referring to wire extensions such as

u/zwbenedict · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Woah! So.. if I have a LED Strip already installed, can I simply purchase this SUPERNIGHT WiFi Wireless LED Smart Controller and it will integrate with Home Assistant?

Seems too simple!? I've been trying to over engineer some esp8266 led driver..

u/just_a_manatee · 1 pointr/Hue

I bought these

I used them for anything that was more than a slight bend. They also make kits where you can connect cut ends to cut ends or 6 pin ends. Let me really get the strips the perfect length (just took a bit more effort).

u/thomiord380 · 1 pointr/Hue

Litcessory (it appears that you could potentially use the OTHER end of a cut piece with this as it states "male end is removable to make female"):

u/denig_r · 1 pointr/DIY

I've found this 120v AC to 12v DC converter on amazon, would something like this allow me to use the pin I've already installed into the machine?

u/Poop_Cheeks · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I use 4x of this and I can control it with my phone and Amazon’s Alexa can control them also.

u/techwiz2017 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Hey! So for a while I've been trying out different cheap solutions to make Alexa pretty much work with anything, it may be advanced for you but I'm using a home server software on a raspberry pi called home assistant that lets you control pretty much anything, including cheaper automation devices. More specifically I have a set of 4 "milight" bulbs (search eBay for these ) which don't work natively with Alexa but they work great setup through home assistant. The best part about these bulbs is that they're warm white and color changing for about $10 each.

I also have an LED strip that's connected to a cheap Chinese wifi controller I got on Amazon, and I'm able to control it with some code also running on the raspberry pi. But again that might be far off for you

Which leads me to recommending stuff that works with Alexa out of the box. As far as I know you can only ask Alexa to change the color if you use the Phillips hue or lifx skills. I actually got a gen1 set of Phillips hue bulbs for $80 on eBay, And they work pretty well. If you just want white bulbs, the Phillips hue whites are only $15 and work with a $20 refurb gen 1 hub.

Lastly for the LED strip, there's a wifi controller on amazon that actually has a skill for it. It doesn't change the color or dim the lights but it does turn the strip on and off. This is a link on Amazon for it for $15

But I'm pretty sure you can get the same one on eBay for half that (like $7). So then you can just buy a strip on Amazon (usually $15 for the strip and $8 for the power supply)

I could go on but let me know of this is helpful or if you want more details!

u/Albyzai · 1 pointr/Hue

How about if i for example need to put the strip along 90 degree corners?

Wouldn't i need something like this?

However, this doesn't seem to be male to male.
Also, isn't it required to solder using the product you linked?

u/delectabledu0 · 1 pointr/cannabiscultivation

Get one of these:

And some of these:

Pop the covers off, run it 15-18 inch above your flower.

Double up this setup for 200+ watts of LED power. Grow dense buds.

assumming you pay 15c per kilowatt hour, than one splitter full will be ~50c a day to run.

u/nagi603 · 1 pointr/Hue

Yeah, that might be a better solution.

If the TV and display are close enough, you might get away with 3rd party cable extensions (Litcessory is the only well-known compatible brand) and two 1m extension strips. But they are expensive and will look ghastly if you can't hide them. And you won't be able to control them separately.

The only other method I can think of is using velcro to fix them to the displays and constantly transferring them, which sound crazy.

u/aLvL99Charizard · 1 pointr/Hue

I am about to start cabinet lighting project as well.
I ordered these from Amazon:


I'll let you know how it goes. I haven't soldered in years

u/furnessence · 1 pointr/DIY

It's linked in the post but here it is again: Controller

u/Tenmoku · 1 pointr/led

Yeah I should have included a screenshot of my calculation. Here's what I went off of, from

The power supply I bought is rated to 5A max, so I don't think it's the power supply. I bought this one specifically:


As for the resistor, the calculator said it only needed to dissipate 1/4W so that's what I went with. Or it might have been 1/2W but it definitely wasn't super high power. Is that not accurate?

u/DimsdalePirhana · 1 pointr/homeautomation

In my kitchen I have 4 separate cabinet groupings, in which I installed above and below cabinet lighting. I used bichromatic (WW/CW) strip lighting from Amazon, and interfaced it with my UPB and home automation systems. I had the electrician run 110 V AC from the UPB wall switches to the top of each stack of cabinets, then wired in the DC drivers. After the DC drivers I wired in a strip light controller. Before I purchased the controller, I ensured that it would return the lighting to the same color it was set to when it was turned off, and so it does.

I then ran strip lighting in track along the tops of the cabinets for the above cabinet lighting. For the under cabinet lighting, I ran white coated cable down the inside front corner of the cabinets, and ran the strip lighting in track along the underside of the cabinets.

I was able to program all the controllers for the above cabinet lighting to one remote, and all the controllers for the below cabinet lighting to another remote. The lights change color in synchrony. I rarely change the color of the lights, so the remotes sit in a drawer doing nothing for the most part. The lighting works flawlessly, and provides a lot of light without much heat. Because the remotes also function as dimmers, I didn't install dimmer UPB switches. Since I had to use different wattage drivers, I'm not sure if the dimmer switches would have dimmed the strips uniformly, while the remotes certainly do. Like the color, I don't change the intensity often anyway.

I have had no quality issues. I was careful to use aluminum track, and the drivers are all meanwell. Overall, I have a very nice seamless light from minimally visible hardware unless you're looking for it.

u/anonymous_commentor · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you want to extend a Hue light strips around something there are extension cables so then you can use only one switch and one controller.

u/AbundanceNaught · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use a fibaro RGBW LED controller on one of my TV's, which is cool, but is expensive.
I'm using one of these: it says WIFI but i had issues getting it connected. however it works just find as a standard controller and holds it's setting when power is cycled. I run a smart outlet to turn it on/off.

u/pokerfacetwin · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I tried gutting the old fluorescent fixtures and putting these strips in them with these power supplies. I only did two of the 6 so far because I wanted to see how they held up after a year or so.

So far so-so, its more work than its worth and I would rather buy some than do the rest of them, but I haven't found any that look good and are hard wired for 110V (most have plugs).

I suppose I will finish them eventually as I already have all the parts.

Also, I can control them all with this remote, which is nice.

u/HapaHaole13 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

u/Bikemancs_at_work · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Looks like you already got a solution, but I bought this on a lightning deal on amazon during Prime Day and love it. Soft light, transition is quick but not instant, so no "flash" or anything. magnetic mount to a fixed (adhesive/screw) base. Recharges using a mini-USB.

u/Rybaka1994 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Is there a plug that lets me take this to molex?

that's how theyre currently plugged in.

u/Testiculese · 1 pointr/battlestations

I thought the same thing, until I got a strip. Now I have led's behind my game machine, my upstairs workstation, under my pool table, and in my safe. I'm also going to add them to the underside of the cabinets on a timer to turn on between 6pm-6am.


LED Strip Light Connector Adapter:

LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet LED Light Strip



LED PCB DC plug Connector: (You will need to re-query amazon for this)

110VAC to 12 VDC 2-Amp 24-watt LED Power Adapter Transformer:

Inline dimmer:

I don't have a pic of the pool table with the lights, but here's the upstairs computer. I used about 4' on that, way overkill. It's bright enough to light up the room. I had to get the dimmer to cut that down a bit. I could use less LEDs but I don't feel like taking the monitors down to re-do it.

u/saltyteabag · 1 pointr/tea

I'm assuming you're in the US? If you really want faster water you could always get a 220v kettle like this or this. Only problem is you'd need a pretty chunky transformer to power it.

u/bigtips · 0 pointsr/askanelectrician

The motor, no. You can use the saw as-is with a step-up transformer sized for the load+10% (min 3.2kw). Like this one.

Unfortunately your wiring probably wouldn't support it. Most 120v household outlets are 20A. You would need a 30A circuit (at 120v).

Shame, a Unisaw is a nice machine.

Edit: if it were mine. Depending on how long I plan to be there but if I had split phase in the house and the garage wasn't far, I'd run a 230v line to the garage. A bit of work, not much cost and probably totally illegal where you live without permits and electricians.

u/TurnbullFL · 0 pointsr/electricians

That is just a simple 12VDC power supply, with 2 amp capacity.

Something like this should be easy to connect.

u/Freshfistula · 0 pointsr/Aquariums

Yep! Only 8 and a quarter right now but it takes 9 when full.

This is what I used for the bowl.