Best liquid white glues according to redditors

We found 36 Reddit comments discussing the best liquid white glues. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Liquid White Glues:

u/Armins-Copy-Of-Swank · 12 pointsr/3Dprinting

STL is from u/WaltRitt and uploaded at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891771

I use Hycote Filler Primer but am open to suggestions for better alternatives.

Plasto is made by Revell and I believe is an alternative to Bondo, which we can't seem to get here in the UK.

Epoxy is Gorilla Epoxy

The wood was an old Scrabble tile I found which happened to have the same thickness so I just cut to size with a sharp craft knife.

u/AlchemyZero · 11 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Three variations on the theme:

Mountain Creek:

Shopping List

  1. Prime the base black.
  2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the grey paint. Paint thin streaks of brown sand over the grey. Make sure all of the streaks flow in the same direction. You want a pattern like this. The streaks should run parallel to the direction the water flows.
  3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
  4. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
  5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Coarse talus onto the glue. If you can, paint the glue on in streaks like you did with the brown.
  6. Sprinkle a small amount of the Fine talus onto the glue. Always sprinkle the Coarse talus first, then the Fine, as this will create a more natural looking clumping of rocks -- small rocks pile up around larger rocks, large rocks don't sit on top of piles of smaller rocks.
  7. Sprinkle a small amount of the Earth Blended Turf onto the glue. This will simulate organic debris caught up in the rocks.
  8. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
  9. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
  10. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint either the Mod Podge or Gloss Gel (henceforth "texture") over the epoxy. The Mod Podge is easier to work with, but will tend to settle more, so use the Mod Podge if you want to simulate slowly moving water, and the Gloss Gel if you want choppier, faster-moving water.

    In either case, paint the texture over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush (a cheap #4 Filbert is perfect) create waves by making short, quick strokes. You want these brush strokes to go in the direction that the water is flowing, but you want to work your way backwards from the outflow point to the inflow point so that the crests of your "waves" overlap properly. Here's an image showing what I mean.

    Swampy Pond

    Shopping List:

  1. Prime the base black.
  2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the olive green paint. 3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
  3. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
  4. Sprinkle a very small amount of the Parsley Flake onto the glue.
  5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Green Blended Turf onto the glue.
  6. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
  7. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Using the end of a brush, add a little texture to the epoxy as it sets. You can "draw" concentric circles radiating out from the Marine's legs to simulate the movement of the troop through the water. When the epoxy begins to form "strings" it's time to move on to the next step.
  8. Before the epoxy sets completely, sprinkle a very fine amount of the Parsley Flake on the surface of the epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure for an hour.
  9. Paint over the Parsley Flakes with the Gloss Varnish so they look properly wet.

    OCEAN BEACH

    Shopping List

  1. Prime the base black.
  2. Using superglue, glue the Marine into position.
  3. Paint the bottom of the base with white glue.
  4. Fill the hollow with the fine ballast then pour it out so that all of the glue is covered. Allow this to dry completely.
  5. Paint streaks of white glue across the bottom of the base. These streaks should run perpendicular to the direction of the tide. Sprinkle more ballast over these streaks. This will create a ripple effect in the sand, like you see along beaches.
  6. Paint the sand with the Brown Sand paint.
  7. Drybrush the sand with Golden Blonde. You want to paint the tops of the ripples, but leave more of the Brown Sand showing in the bottoms of the ripples.
  8. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
  9. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint the Gloss Gel over the epoxy. Paint the gloss gel over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush create waves by making short, quick strokes just as described under Mountain Creek.
u/Doc_Choc · 7 pointsr/Calgary

Amazon will sell you a gallon for 15 bucks.

u/Lord_Derp_The_2nd · 3 pointsr/minipainting

It's an interesting German paint that I read about called UHU. Amazon carries it, but sadly the single tubes take forever to ship, and the 5 pack is WAY overkill. So I have enough to last me forever now. Here's the link: Uhu 38106 All Purpose Adhesive - 125ml Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_poz9BbPERGCKR

It was surprisingly easy, it dries very fast. I mixed it with Citadel Blood for the Blood God, then went over the finished effect again with a gloss varnish (Vallejo) after sealing it all with Dullcoat.

u/Jarfol · 3 pointsr/Bonsai

I don't see it being worth the cleaning and energy cost, but good luck. You will probably have to clean it once a week and maybe pull out the whole pump once a month. I suggest the pot be built as 3 seperate reservoirs (left side, creek, right side). Have the creek one hollowed, maybe with a false bottom, and the sides like regular pots with drain holes and soil. That way you can remove and work on the pump without disturbing the trees in any way, and if you can get a small enough pump you can isolate it in the pot instead of possibly having it out on a table or something.

I also suggest that if you have the funds, buy two pumps. Pumps fail very frequently, and if you design the pot to a specific pump you might be SOL if (more like when) it breaks and you cannot find a replacement.

I had lots of fish growing up. Pumps are a pain in the ass.

I would suggest an alternative to the real water. I did this as a little art project many years ago and it turned out really good. Build the creek with rocks like you would have, but instead of running water and a pump, buy a bunch of this and just dump it on the rocks. When it dries up (which will take a couple days, depending on how thick you make it) you will be amazed how realistic it looks. Put it on thicker than you need, it will shrink a little when it dries. You can always add more later though. Maybe not as awesome as running water, but nearly as good without nearly as much hassle and cost.

Edit: This is the only example I could quickly find.

u/whore-for-cheese · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

um theres this van gogh notebook for $1.99, but its got free prime shipping http://amzn.eu/aDupw9S https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486498549/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486498549&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=1
oh look, monet water lilies notebook is $1.38 https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2


or you could get 3 things of elmers glue for your crafts https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Liquid-School-Washable-Ounces/dp/B010DS107K/ref=sr_1_21_a_it?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=8-21&fpw=pantry&keywords=under+%241&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

photo prints for $0.09 each https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2

theres also a bunch of prime pantry items. like white cheddar and shell pasta, fried rice, and candy for #1 or less.

yeah, all of those have free shipping, otherwise I might have found cooler stuff :)

u/Nf1nk · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This stuff. You can find it cheaper in stores.

u/muleskinnerslider · 2 pointsr/ender3

I have a similar type of glass bed (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJ9WKRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my CE3Pro and this brand of glass has poor adhesion - period. I call it 'black ice'. The other mods on the list are also similar to mine, with the exception that I've added an upgraded vent ring for the cooling fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456). For quite a while I used blue painters tape and it seemd to work in the beginning, but I had some issues with warpage/shrinkage, air bubbles, tears, seam lines and typical tape things.

Lately I switched to brushing on Elmers liquid disappearing purple school glue, which is a PVA based glue (https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Liquid-5-Ounces/dp/B01NCQAFGD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=287FNHW09Q8D1&keywords=elmers+disappearing+purple+liquid+school+glue&qid=1572698053&sprefix=elmers+liquid+purple%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-1). 5 oz of it costs less then $3 at Walmart. There is an Amazon branded version of the glue also, but I haven't tested it. It works much better then the tape as I have absolutely no issues with it at all. I'm getting those 'near two thousand dollar printer quality prints' now that I read about all the time that the CE3 is capable of. I put on just enough to cover the area that I'm printing on and a little goes a long way. It's generally good for about 2 or 3 prints. It's washable, so it's easy to clean and reapply when needed. Some people use the glue stick version, but there are complaints about that somewhat 'globbing' on and being less evenly distributed on the bed.

I basically consider the glass to be a good starting point for getting a good basic level bed surface as compared to trusting that the build plate is true. One of these days I plan to try out a PEI sheet (on top of the glass). Many claim it's the absolute best, but for my budget at this time, it's too deep for my pockets at $15 a sheet.

u/zarqghoti · 2 pointsr/rocketry

I use "The Original Super Glue" brand, here's an inexpensive bulk-pack of the Gel stuff Super Glue 15185 Gel, 12-Pack, .07oz tubes. You go through a LOT of it this way. On my Super Bertha I went through something like 6 or 7 tubes for the papering.

u/Comrade_Cephalopod · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Ah, right.

Try searching "clear glue" on Amazon, I found some of the stuff linked at the bottom of that blog post: Elmers Liquid School Glue, Clear, Washable.

u/RodBlaine · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I’ve used Gators Glue acrylic glue to fill small cracks and windows. It dries rock hard, and clear after about 24 hours. Can be sanded smooth and polished.

u/GrandmaGos · 2 pointsr/crafts

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-Washable-School-Glue-145g/dp/B001G9EBDG

In the U.S. it's commonly found at Walmart in the school supplies aisle, along with the pads of cheap construction paper and watercolor paints, that sort of thing.

u/PrincessHeidi · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Artsy for life

One of my favourite crafts is Warhammer. I've done a conversion from $ which is £15.50? I love painting the models, never really been a fan of the game though. I have a lot of painted models, which I believe to look pretty good, thing is the basing. I've never really tried to do anything to adventurous with the bases, but have always wanted to.

This basing kit along with some PVA Glue would get me off to a great start at having 100% complete looking troops.

I used to have loads of photos of my Warhammer, but cannot really find any at the moment. I found one which is on my website Sorry for the small image.

Although the models are small and fiddly to paint, I just find it so relaxing, and have such a sense of achievement at the end looking at them finished. I can take more photos when I get home if anyone is interested.

u/hotpocketdeath · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I use liquid glue for my PLA prints.

Mixed 1 part glue to 2 parts distilled water to thin it out. Wipe a very thin layer onto my heated bed with a sponge and let the heat dry it. leaves a very thin, even layer of glue. Parts stick like crazy while it's heated and when the bed cools down, the parts just lift right off with no effort. I have never needed to use any kind of tools to get my parts up.

The glue I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQAFGD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, and the glue washes right off with a little soap and water.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/LetItDie

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

It's 0.50 cents.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/GungHo_Sloane · 1 pointr/LetItDie

Here you go. It's 0.50 cents.

u/NeedsMoreSpaceships · 1 pointr/CasualUK

White glue obviously

u/wilson007 · 1 pointr/Watches

I'd try using the adhesive that you'd use to reassemble a cell phone. Something like this

u/reverends3rvo · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8
u/Sheeobee · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

So I watched this terrible little video, and it got me thinking, and sent me down a rabbit hole - is this even feasible? It would realistically cost me about $25 CAD to attempt it, but I'm worried/don't know the properties of LOCA all that well - if I botch it, is it relatively easy to remove the glue?

Theres also some debate about the quality of some LOCA glues - the one on amazon I was looking at is this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OZKNVUM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A223WORISLZJI5&psc=1

Anyone have any experince with this stuff?

u/Pr0sen · 1 pointr/iphone

MMOBIEL UV LOCA 50 ml unit Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive Glue Adhesive Transparent TP-N1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZKNVUM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Yeslad123456789 · 1 pointr/ghostbusters

I use this for my sons badges for scouts, always worked well https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scout-Shops-Ltd-Badge-Glue/dp/B007V0MNFM

u/Curpidgeon · 1 pointr/minipainting

That's excellent! And I would not get any officially branded model glue unless you are doing Games Workshop models for which they make a specific plastic glue that kinda "welds" the plastic.

I just buy whatever cyanoacrylate (super glue usually has this) is available. This is actually a good deal on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-15187-12-Pack/dp/B000LGPD64/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536324938&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=super%2Bglue&th=1

If you find you want it thicker they have a gel too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YEN37K/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B004YEN37K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=a54d13fc-b8a1-4ce8-b285-d77489a09cf6&pf_rd_r=N1NX6E1ED9RCD79SX46V&pd_rd_wg=FwfEZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=GYhUR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=54959996-b29d-11e8-8e51-357518f34f72

Can't imagine any branded glue would be worth it otherwise. It's all just the same chemical formula except the GW stuff (which has the sad side effect of not working on anything else at all).

u/Tall_dark_and_lying · 1 pointr/minipainting

I certainly don't mind.

Uhu is a brand. Here's a link from UK Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UHU-38106-All-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321185144&sr=8-2

For photos, the number one thing is natural light. Pointing a spotlight will wash out the colour as you see here. Put the model by the window and see if that helps.

If that's not possible, you need to diffuse the light. There are many ways to do this but the most crude is pointing your spotlight at a piece of paper near the model rather than at the model itself.

Hope that helps, would love to see the results.