Best micriphone cables according to redditors
We found 476 Reddit comments discussing the best micriphone cables. We ranked the 181 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 476 Reddit comments discussing the best micriphone cables. We ranked the 181 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Tascam user here, DR-40 and DR-60D, though I've been wanting to upgrade to the DR-70D. It's like a slightly better 60D.
Anyway, what you'll need is three cables to cover your bases, there's no telling what board the DJ has:
My RCA has only been used a couple of times, but when they were, I was glad they were in my work box/bag. You never know what someone else is bringing, so there are all the ports you'll have to contend with.
Now, the unit itself. You want to use the XLR ports, either 1 or both 1&2 depending on what cables you get and the DJ's output. I wouldn't worry about stereo here, he's likely working in mono, so we'll focus on input 1. I'm using my DR-60D for refference, but Tascam generally uses similar menu systems for all of their devices, so it should be close.
First, go into the [Menu] and select [Rec Mode]. Use the scroll wheel to select and click on [Rec Mode], then scroll to [Dual Mono] and click the wheel. Make sure the source is Ch 1. What Dual Recording does is it records the same file twice, but one has reduced volume. I have mine set to -12dB. This has saved my ass more than once, especially on mics I have set up that I can't access once the ceremony has started.
Back in the [Menu], select [Input Setting], and make sure the settings are up for Ch 1. Set gain to Med. Make sure to get a level test before recording and leaving it be, you may need to switch it to Low.
Next, make sure the input for Ch1 is set to Mic Input. My unit has a switch for this, but yours doesn't seem to, so it's probably in the menu, maybe in [Input Settings]. Mic is for general inputs (like a sound board or a lav mic receiver), Line is for things like amps (I don't use Line much), and Mic+Phantom is for mics that need power, like shotgun mics or voice-over mics.
You should be set to record. MAKE SURE THE RECORD LIGHT IS SOLID. MOST TASCAM MODELS ALLOW FOR PRE-RECORD, WHERE YOU CAN MONITOR AND THE LIGHT BLINKS. IF THE TIMECODE IS NOT MOVING FORWARD AND THE LIGHT ISN'T SOLID, IT ISN'T RECORDING. Next, flip the [Hold] switch on the side so no one accidentally stops the recording (it's the same as a hold switch on an iPod, restricts input). You can still adjust levels while in [Hold] mode, since you have dials, but you won't be able to cut or make adjustments. I find it handy to idiot-proof it, or make sure my hand doesn't slip.
Have fun, and use your H1 as a backup ambient mic. Always have one or two backups. And get a Rode VideoMic pro if you already haven't, saved my ass on more than one wedding.
/u/Endodojo - thanks for providing the picture to show exactly what you're looking for - I wish more folks would do that when they ask for gear advice :)
I would avoid 8-bit interchangeable lens cameras for this application. Your organization will want a news-style camcorder with a power zoom for quick re-framing. Depending on your distribution channel, you may also want to shoot to a 10-bit codec for broadcast. All of that said, here's what I recommend:
Under $5K
Here is a "news style" piece shot with the DVX:
Interview examples:
Under $2.5K
Here is the image quality the X70 can produce in a handheld ENG setting:
Hope this is helpful, happy holy-days and good luck finding the right camcorder setup for your needs!
The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.
While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.
I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.
This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ
A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.
Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.
I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.
Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.
Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.
I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.
I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.
Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/
Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)
Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.
It's probably overkill for this application and outside of your price range, but when I tried Dragon Naturally Speaking several years ago, I used a Shure SM58 with a cheap impedance transformer on a nice sound card. My accuracy was 95% and this was 10 years ago. I would check out Shure's SM58+X2U Combo. I'm sure in combination with the software advancement that you would see damn near 100% accuracy with this. An industry standard microphone compared to that cheap USB nonsense should absolutely make a huge difference.
Don't use one mic for a group of people. The quality never comes out great. Here's what I use and it totally fits your budget. [Zoomh4n] (http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/H4N?utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=PPC&zmap=H4N&zmac=7&zmas=1&zmam=89202644&SID=0)
mics
cables
splitters
Good monitors are huge. Headphone sound is fine, but you want to mix using unbiased reference monitors so you know what things are going to sound like. Then you make sure it sounds good through headphones, in the car, etc. Even something like these will make a huge difference. If you've got some extra coin, go for something better. I found a pair of Mackie HR842 monitors on eBay for $250 (the old ones, not the new mk2 model). They're amazing.
You don't need more inputs than what you're actually using. If you're trying for a cheap home studio, your Apogee will work just fine. Just switch cables/inputs when you're recording something new.
But anyway. Here we go. What I would buy (of note, these are all Amazon affiliate links):
Mics:
Monitors:
Bass:
I've been out of the "assorted percussion" game for a while, so you'll have to use your best judgement for that.
All that I've listed is $744 off of Amazon. You can DEFINITELY find cheap used mics and the Bass DI. Look for Gear Talk: Classifieds on Facebook, for example. This is all stuff that you can use today to get your home studio off the ground and functional. You also have $256 to spend on other stuff that you might need (percussion, surdo, etc.)
Logic and Pro Tools are built from the ground up to be recording suites. Ableton, while certainly being a live-sound-first option, works just fine. Nothing wrong with getting your feet wet using Ableton, and switching over to a bigger/better suite later. I recorded my first EP using GarageBand before making the transition myself.
Start with the basics. Start with what you NEED to record, not what you want. While what you already have is basic and not feature packed, it works and will get you in the game. (Related: stay away from plugins until you know how to really mix well with the basic compressor and EQ your recording suite comes with.)
Hope that helps!
You'll probably have to build yourself a stage unless you want to buy your own, but that can be pricey.
You'd want a mixer, XLRs, microphone, microphone stand, and speaker
You can use this adapter to adapt your mic to almost any phone. The free Rode Record app will do a better job than the native phone apps, too. I've recorded some great audio on an old iPhone 5--no sim card or account needed.
Quality Test. Have to break a rule here, SORRY!!
Items, Old Setup:
Blue Snowball
Shockmount
ProLine Stand
Items, New Setup:
Audio Technica AT2035
Rode PSA1 Stand
Line 6 POD Studio UX2
Required XLR Cable
I also plan on picking up Noctua NH-D14 and an H440 soon to replace my 650D and H100i.
I buy my personal XLR's from Amazon here in the UK. However the ones I use for work are Van Damme with Neutirk connectors and are a lot more expensive. But they get a lot more use.
The thing about XLR's is that they last a whole lot longer if you learn to coil them up properly using the over-under method. Wrap them around your elbow or coil them around an object and they won't last five minutes.
The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.
The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.
The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.
Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.
Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.
In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.
In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.
The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.
The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.
Get a converter
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Cable-Stereo-Connection-Microphone/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=rca+xlr+converter&qid=1550564973&s=gateway&sr=8-16
I purchased an FX Audio DAC-X6 a couple years ago based on this review. It's a good value pick and has been great with my Beyerdynamic DT 770 80 ohm headphones. It has an optical input that I use with my PS4 and a USB input for my PC with a switch to toggle between the inputs. If you don't get this one, just make sure you find a DAC/amp with optical input.
As for your microphone, most budget DAC/amps don't have an audio input or relay so you still need to run your mic into the controller, or get a USB microphone adapter. I got this TRS/TRRS adapter and plug the boom mic attached to my headphones into it.
TL;DR
Headphones > FX Audio DAC-X6 \> PS4 optical out
Microphone > TRS/TRRS adapter \> PS4 controller headphone jack
EDIT: or you could just get this: https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blasterx-g5
this is what you need
If you want a brand name Amazon.com will get you an Audio Technica adapter for ~3k JPY including shipping.
If you want cheaper/no-name it's all random chinese stuff on ebay anyhow in which case you may as well get it from Aliexpress.
Edit: Well, I failed on the AT one, that's XLR to 1/4" and not even 3.5mm.
Really, you dont absolutely need a mixer to run these from a phone, computer, ipad or whatever. Those speakers are self powered and have RCA inputs so you can get one of these cords and hook it right up to the first speaker and then get a couple of these XLR cables and link the next two speakers in a chain from the first.
If you really just want a mixer for more control over the EQs and volume, literally, any mixer will work. You don't need a 12 channel live sound mixer or anything fancy like that. I'd just get a, cheap, two channel DJ mixer. Search amazon and I'm sure you'll find one that looks good for you.
You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.
You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.
Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs.Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?So to recap, you need to purchase:
Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songsRandom question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?
http://www.amazon.com/B-B-King-Greatest-Hits/dp/B00000ADG3/ref=tmm_acd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&sr=&qid=
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JJQMD8/ref=s9_qpp_gw_p267_d84_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-7&pf_rd_r=137X3NYX2ANGXPXHM7GH&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970566542&pf_rd_i=desktop
http://www.amazon.com/John-Green-Box-Set/dp/0147515009/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1419218323&sr=8-4&keywords=the+fault+in+our+stars
They were all meant for my father
Well, by cheap I dont know what your budget is. But if you want a good sounding microphone for talking, find a one that is a studio/condenser microphone. It will require a usb powered pre-amp audio interface or a simple usb adapter for computer use because it comes with an XLR connection. Best bet would be to go to music stores and search for studio microphone you like depending on the price, and then buy the usb preamp or adapter separately. Also buy a pop filter.
If your budget is 7-10K, I would recommend MXL company ones and then buy usb adapters like this. MXL last very long. If you have extra budget then buy a usb preamp audio interface(make sure there is an xlr connection). The reason why the audio interface is so you have a direct hardware monitoring. They don't have any delays if you plan on hearing live through headphones.
This was my setup MXL 2008, M-Audio Fast Track. I used this for guitar and song recordings.
Sounds like a fun project!
 
I'd be concerned about timing and performance. If I was tasked with this project, I would be looking at the audio recording device very closely, cheap usb audio adapters might not cut it as quality and latency is a primary concern with recording real-time audio loops. FYI the Raspberry Pi audio jack is output only.
 
If you have the cash I would check out the [Pi-DAC audio card](https://www.tindie.com/products/IQaudIO/iqaudiocom-pi-dac-audio-card-with-headphone-support-for-the-raspberry-pi-b/
) by IQaudIO, it is made for the Raspberry Pi. If you are on a budget then you could try this cheap USB guitar audio adapter.
 
You'll need to install Debian for Raspberry Pi and ALSA
 
If your using USB audio and USB keyboard for trigging the recording you will need a small USB hub. External power supply might be required too.
Yes it works. The adapter you're referring to is a TRS to TRRS connector. They're the same size, but there's a different number of conductors on it. This adapter allows the TRS microphone to connect to the TRRS plug in your phone. Then you can record audio that way.
Look at the tip.
Compare to something built for a typical computer
The mic you linked to is using a trrs connection (tip, ring, ring, sleeve). That's normally for stereo headphones + a mic. The mic input on your desktop/laptop is probably expecting either ts or trs. You might get it to work by not pushing the connector fully into your computer - but it really depends on how that mic is wired.
You'll likely need an adapter. I have no experience with that adapter - just linking to it based on the name alone.
Based on the cost, it would probably make more sense for you to just buy a mic that's designed for PC input
Do a google search for
trrs vs trsfor more detail.Hmm.
Does your monitors have an adjustable volume level in the back? I have a pair of monitors that have different dials in the back for EQ and volume levels. (HS80M)
If your levels are adjusted correctly check your connection to your audio interface. Make sure it's not a cable connection. What kind XLR cables do you have? Are they balanced, high quality?
It may be audio interface perhaps with an unbalanced XLR connection? From what your telling me, if you reverse it the opposite side of the monitors have an issue. It would make sense to me that the cables might be defective or the scarlett is defective.
I have a scarlett myself and I notice no problems at all. Make sure you update the driver on the scarlett. It was one of the first things that I did because I had problems with the driver originally that came from the package. I hope that helped a bit. Keep me updated I might be forgetting something.
Edit:
I have these cables btw, if you do find that it is a cable problem. They are awesome and extremely great quality cables. Play around with the cables and routing. It might help you narrow the causes of the issue.
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-12feet-Cable-Patch/dp/B000RYE5Y6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395031499&sr=8-4&keywords=xlr+cable
Amazon has a couple good deals on really good setups. Here's a good example AT2035 + interface, cable, and pop filter for $200. Just get a $12 mic stand and you've got yourself a really, really good setup.
Going to also go and reccomend the Sure SM57 ($99) because I just found out how amazing this thing sounds and it's dynamic so it won't pick up that much background noise. For a mixer the Scarlett Solo is pretty standard and works well, just be sure to get a stand like this one to prop it up on, and a cable to plug it in.
I was able to find the receipt for one of the cables I am using and it's this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VJJQUU/ref=pe_385040_121528360_pd_te_s_rp_ti/177-5226825-1519635
Currently don't have any speakers mate, i was considering getting a pair of 598's i think ill sell my current microphone after i buy the new one and save for a pair of 598's.
I believe the AT2020 can come bundled with one, This i believe?
Thank you for all your help. I appreciate it, ill throw you some gold on your OG comment !check
It shouldn't be that hard really. if your computer does have 5.1 out (which the card you listed seems to. come out 3.5 mm to XLR
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-403M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459380451&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+mm+to+xlr
that will plug into the INPUT of the amp you listed. then use
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Cable-Patch-Cords/dp/B003JJQMD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459380540&sr=8-1&keywords=25%27+XLR (2 of those)
out of the amp to the but kickers. it will require being a little handy. You would need to cut off the female end of the xlr (the end NOT plugged into the amp) and attach positive and negative leads to the butt kicker pig tails. you can leave the ground loose, or run it to a metal part of the butt kicker frame..could help if you have a hum.
you shouldn't need a DI box as your PC already puts out line level. Those are really only needed for bringing mic level signals up to line level. (generally...not always..there are exceptions)
I would run the amp in stereo using each channel to run 1 butt kicker. If you wanted to run it in bridged mono (more power but be careful) you would have to use only 1 xlr cable, cut the female end off and attache both butt kickers to that one cable from the amp in parallel. thought it really wouldn't gain you anything. and keeping it stereo will give you independent volume control over each...should someone require more butt kicking than their movie watching counter part.
The cables I listed are just example, make sure you order the appropriate lengths. you can also go more or less expensive, but went kind of middle of the road but leaned towards budget friendly.
There is probably someone with more experience than I who can contribute more. I like the challenge of incorporating PA gear into a home theater setup.
Let me know how it works!
Edit: grammar is hard...
Hummm this is my shopping list for the cheapest usable equipment I could find, the interface is for 8 people so don’t get that lol and the prices are for 4 people but this is about the best I can think of (they’re might be cheaper stands and getting a shorter xlr cable might be a good idea but this is kinda a baseline)
4 Microphones $80https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_1/134-4918017-9581726?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002KZAKS&pd_rd_r=67247d59-873d-11e9-b9fc-e96a8f51671e&pd_rd_w=rl713&pd_rd_wg=YUNRU&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P&psc=1&refRID=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P
4 Pop filters $40https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Recordings-Broadcasting/dp/B01N21H9WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pop%2Bfilter&qid=1559702707&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1
4 XLR cables $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JJQMD8/ref=psdcmw_11973421_t2_B00018CXV0
5 Microphone stands $60
https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Upgraded-Adjustable-Microphone-Snowball/dp/B07F82BPLV/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=microphone+stand&qid=1559703326&s=gateway&sprefix=microphone+st&sr=8-20
Audio interface $150
Amazon.com: BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 4-Channel (UMC404HD): Gateway
Total: $370
>Gold plating on wires is of dubious quality. It is only useful if both the connector on the gear and the wire is of the same material. If you have a gold plated connector on your cable and your equipment’s connector is a different metal it will cause galvanic corrosion. This kills the equipment.
Correct. I said elsewhere that I was full of shit, I didn't know what I was talking about with this. I'm not sure why I said the stupid things I did about gold plating.
>I will concede that Monster Cables have a great warranty. But there might be a better way. Take [2] this cable and [3] this cable. If you bought the monster cable and it broke, you could go back to the store and get a new one. (Provided that the store is still in business.) You could also buy 3 of the cheaper cables, have two backup wires, and still have half your money.
>Wires on stage are another matter as you mentioned, they are also made differently. Music production usually uses [4] XLR cables which has a balanced line construction. This makes any stray interference in the wire [5] common mode and much easier to deal with.
Yeah, you're right about this, but for XLR, Monster's prices are much more in line with an average priced cable.
I'm not saying that monster isn't a rip off for home audio/video, but for professional equipment, the extra price could be worth it after a single break.
You do. It's usually integrated within multichannel receivers or the subwoofer itself. After reading your post it seems like your sub does have high pass filtered outputs (please state your model when asking for tech help). You'll have to connect your source directly to the sub's input and then its output to the receiver. You'll need some XLR/TS to RCA cables or adapters to do that, these for example: One and two.
No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!
You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Male-Twin-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496390296&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+xlr+cable
And yes, that should be the only cable you need, aside from the power cables, of course.
I havent personally looked too far into it myself yet but it appears you have a few options
either use the 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable from the switch to the nano patch (rca side in the switch, 3.5 into the stereo input on patch)
or
use something like this cable. (rca on switch side, XLR on patch side).
Then use the included cables to connect the speakers to the nano patch. which appears would be TRS on nano patch side, XLR into speaker.
I could be off on this if anyone else wants to jump in. When i purchase mine ill probably go the rca to xlr route on the switch -> patch side of things.
the more im looking at this, after buying the required cables and the kit youre looking at a hundred bucks for convenience. In the grand scheme of things (and budget) it may be something that could wait.
You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.
Alright, here's what I've put together for you:
Total: $1,018.99
Logic:
Turntable:
Rega turntables are some of the best in the world, and their quality extends all the way down the line. I have the step-up mode, the P3, and love it. $400 is roughly the entry point for a "good" turntable, which I think is a solid investment given your budget.
Speakers
The JBL LSR series is very well regarded on r/audiophile. They are generally considered to be the best powered monitors on the market. Being powered means you don't have to buy a separate amplifier, saving money. If you want to save some money, you can drop down to the LSR305, which has a smaller woofer. It will not have as much bass power as the 308, but it costs $200 less for the pair (NOTE: The Amazon link is for a single speaker, not a pair)
Phono Preamp
You'll need one of these, because the signal coming out of the tone arm on the turntable is very low voltage. The phono preamp brings it up to a level that is powerful enough to be amplified further by the speakers. You can spend more, but you don't need more than the Pyle (I have one at home that I'd honestly mail to you, but Amazon Prime is probably cheaper than the cost of shipping for me :P)
Passive Preamp
This is a volume knob and a input switch. That's all. Volume knob because the speakers have the volume knob on the back, and have separate knobs per speaker. Didn't think you'd want to mess with that. Two inputs so you can hook up your turntable and your computer, or your phone, etc.
RCA-to-XLR cable
Because the JBL monitors are targeted at pro recording studios, they use "balanced" XLR cables instead of traditional RCA. The reasons for doing so are irrelevant, but you will need an adapter cable.
If that's too much money
As I said earlier, you could drop down to the JBL LSR305 (again, link is a single speaker, not a pair). That would bring the total down to $818.99. If you wanted to save money, this is where I would do it.
Another option is to switch turntables to the U-Turn Orbit. It starts at $179, but I'd definitely add the cue lever for $40. I wouldn't spend more on other options though, not worth the money. If you go this route, treat this turntable as your starter, then replace it later.
If you tell me your local craigslist, I can look around and see if there are any good deals, but the above is going to be pretty hard to beat.
By all means, feel free to ask me any and all questions. I love doing this kind of research for people, so it's no skin off my back. I want to make sure you enjoy Ride the Lightning in all it's rifftastic glory :D
Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade to a higher-quality microphone or bigger setup, you may have trouble integrating USB gear into that setup, and a better USB microphone will cost much more than an equivalent analog microphone. So, if you see yourself upgrading to a better microphone in the future, or getting a more "professional" sound system, you may want to stray away from USB. If you go for an analog microphone and an audio interface, you will usually have better sound quality at the same price points as well.
With that said, I would go with the MXL 770 and a Focusrite iTrack Solo. I use a Focusrite product myself. These are very capable and well-regarded budget home recording devices.
Now how do we get this in budget? In audio, it's not a bad idea to go used or open box. For example, you can grab a Focusrite iTrack Solo from eBay right now for for $70 or less. Buy the MXL 770 from Amazon, a Neewer boom stand, and a XLR cable, and you've got yourself a very capable and easily upgradable kit for $165. Then, if you want to upgrade in the future, you can jump up to a more pro-level microphone and still support it on the iTrack, or if you need to plug in more microphones or instruments, you can get another interface and still use the MXL 770.
TL;DR I would highly recommend going for a non-usb microphone like the MXL 770 and a budget audio interface. With an extra $25 and some smart shopping, you can get some equipment that sounds better AND will save you money with future upgrades.
Feel free to ask me any questions you have.
Source: Amateur radio producer, person who spent too much and thought too little on his initial audio purchases.
Yeah my mic has an XLR output.
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Female-Microphone-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00B6WZGHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419045567&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+to+usb
Can I get away with that instead? Might be too late at this point but trying to save money...
Or save a lot of money and do what I did for my MXL 990 condenser mic. Buy a Phantom Power Supply and the XLR to USB cable. I am using this combo myself and it works perfectly fine! The only problem is that it takes up more space.
You'll need a 1/4 jack to XLR (both male). Like one of these.
Then on the backplate of the sub there should be an XLR OUTPUT. So you'll need an XLR Female to XLR male to your speakers,
Unfortunately, $300 for a 4 person set up is going to be hard to make work well since you're basically starting from scratch. That's not to say it can't be done. Unfortunately, I'm going to give recommendations based on what I know is cheaper from a reputable name and hope none of these are right out terrible.
Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer. 4 mic inputs, USB connection, $100.
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid 4 at $20 for $80. Alternatively, BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S is a pack with 3 mics for $40, with one from the last link, gets you 4 mics for $60.
Cable Matters 2-Pack Microphone Cable (Mic Cable/XLR to XLR Cable) 6 Feet 2 packs of 2 at $15 for $30.
NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand 4 at $12 for $50. Alternatively AmazonBasics Tripod Boom Microphone Stand if a desk mounted stand is not ideal or possible, 4 at $20 for $80
I'm also not sure the diameter of those mics but I recommend whichever one of these fits. On Stage MY325 Dynamic Shock Mount Microphone Clip or On Stage MY330 Wireless Shock Mount Microphone Clip both about $10, so $40 for 4.
Depending on what compromises you're willing to make, this is a pretty budget 4 person set up at $280-$330, and I'd recommend saving the last $100 or so you need for it.
Don't get that sub. Get a JBL 310s. It will make your life 30000% easier. Get a TC Electronics Level Pilot. x2 RCA to XLR converter. Dual XLR to Dual XLR cable.
TT > RCA to XLR converter > Level Pilot > XLR Cables > JBL Sub > XLR Cables > JBL Monitors.
x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O4G/ (turntable outs to Pilot in)
x2 (4 cables): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KO8VYMG/ pilot to sub and sub to monitors.
Not sure if it's supported but you may need the right adapter. Most camera mics use The same pins as stereo headphones. Headphones with an inline mic, for example, has an extra pin.
You may need something like this - Rode SC4 3 inches Microphone Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mG9BbSZY6RS3
https://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC3-3-5mm-TRRS-Adaptor/dp/B00L6C8PNU
It just bridges the grounds. Plenty of other options, but this is the one I have experience with.
Hi /u/kelhamisland - from your description, it sounds like you have one of three possible problems [Referral Links]:
Here's a Wistia tutorial on why a shotgun on a boom is a better choice than a lav: http://wistia.com/learning/choosing-a-microphone
Hope this is helpful!
Bill
Hello Podcasters!
I have a very basic gear question, hopefully this is a suitable thread to post it:
I have a condenser mic I used previously for music recording. It has an XLR connection type, and was part of a kit (from PreSonus) with a box and software.
I'm wondering if buying something like this (see link below) will allow me to use this mic to do podcasts, Skype, gaming, etc. I'm hoping to not have to buy a new mic, and just use this as a do it all solution. I'm not sure if this would give it the "phantom power" Condensers need, or if there are any other issues I'm unaware of and would be just wasting money on the cable.
Also, is a condenser mic a good idea to use for podcasts, Skype, gaming.... or would a dynamic mic be better suited? I don't really know how the descriptions translate to real world use. If one will be more harsh or pick up more unwanted noise?
Any insight on if this simple solution would work or alternative recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!
https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-Microphone-Converter-Microphones-Instruments/dp/B019GYKGRC/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1509973939&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=XLR+to+USB+converter
Which mic?
PC mic jacks provide a ~3-5V plug-in-power standard, studio mics use the ~12-48V phanotm power standard, which is incompatible. If it's a studio standard mic you'll need an external phantom power supply https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Condenser-Recording-Equipment/dp/B01I1OEN7C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486824110
I got this one. Works great 👍
It just takes a regular 3.5mm trs (Tip ring sleeve) cable like everything usually uses and it converts it to 3.5mm trrs (tip ring ring sleeve) which some devices like iPads and iPhones and tablets and such need in order to know that it’s an incoming signal and to be able to record instead of like when you plug in a pair of headphones for example, which the phone senses as outgoing and will then push audio.
Movo MC3 3.5mm TRS (Female) Microphone Adapter Cable to TRRS (Male) for iPhone and Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-X3tDbRJ8HNW7
It’s worth the investment. I use mine al the time for quick recording sessions for music ideas. Sound quality is much better than the built in mic on the phone. Do some reading, it’s fun to learn. It’ll definitely do you good and if you need better quality you can get into different interfaces and stuff. It’s not difficult to learn, it’s just a lot of little things,
just take it in pieces and have fun with it 🙂
Hey, just wanted to follow up on this. I got this working using a standard stereo aux cable and a TRS Female to TRRS Male adapter. I got mine at a local shop, but I'm pretty certain this is the exact same one. though I only paid $5 for mine.
So, yes, the iPad Mini 2 has a mic input in the headphone jack (TRRS), you just need to convert the signal from TRS to TRRS.
Thanks for everyone's help, I might still pick up one of these iRig adapters, but this is the smallest and cheapest I can find.
Hey! Not sure if you found an answer to this yet, but I've been researching this recently as I want to use a better mic to record my bands' practices.
​
From what I found, you need some type of small sound card, or a TRS to TRRS converter with a 3.5mm to USB C adapter. Phones can take mic input, but by default, they won't recognize that it's an input signal. The options I listed should force the phone to recognize the mic input.
​
I am still waiting on mine in the mail to test it out, but I would guess the TRS converter method will produce higher quality audio since it wouldn't be running through a $7 sound card.
Maybe. But.....
Idealy you could just connect these to the 6.3mm jack straight across. But I can't see anyone selling this simple adapter. Perhaps because few people have a need for such a thing? Or perhaps because it doesn't work (for whatever reason)? Maybe that is why vendors like IK can sell their iRig2 for a rather premium price.
You could try something like this, but I would get from some place that allows you to return it if it doesn't work.
https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MC3-Microphone-Adapter-Smartphones/dp/B01N9CJDVE
just get a 3.5mm stereo >> XLR splitter cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HMX-010Y-XLR3M-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B00YSAVUZ2/
done with one cable. get an equalizer app for your phone.
-
alternately, get a set of cables that are RCA >> XLR splitter
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Cable-Stereo-Connection-Microphone/dp/B077L3PG45/
you'll take the RCA outs from whatever source you want such as
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B07L72S6PG/
-
XLR is meant to be daisy chained from speaker to speaker. so you need to plug your L/R XLR cables into your sub first, then use jumper cables to feed your monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Microphone-Cable/dp/B01JNLTTKS/
You just need these: TISINO Dual RCA to XLR Male Cable, 2 XLR to 2 RCA/Phono Plug HiFi Stereo Audio Connection Microphone Cable Wire Cord - 5 Feet / 1.5m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_is48BbS7VPWKA
Then it may be your monitors. The older revision of these monitors was known for these issues, but they were supposed to have fixed it with the new revision . Are your monitors still within the return period? If so, just get a new pair. If it persists, then you most likely have a ground loop issue. It could be that your BX5’s just have a way of mitigating the noise.
The way I fixed my issue was with a cheap Mpow ground loop isolator from Amazon. Check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2
You will also need cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Breakout-Unbalanced/dp/B07K58FTR8
This is all you need to get the Bluetooth signal. You can leave it plugged in so that it won't run out of battery, but you may have to pair it again when you're away for a while as most Bluetooth devices will turn off automatically when disconnected and idle.
Then you just plug it into a cable like this and you should be good to go.
Thanks for this!. I just actually contacted Zoom directly (have a contact) and figured out that I can use a Rode SC4 (or similar) into my smartphone, and then a 3.5mm male to make into the H6 to get the audio from the H6 to play through smartphone. I purchased these two products.... Should these do the trick?:
Movo MC3 3.5mm TRS (Female) Microphone Adapter Cable to TRRS (Male) for iPhone & Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8nh3Cb2W23310
DuKabel Top Series Long Audio Cable 26 Feet (8 Meters) - Shielded Aux Cable Cord 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Auxiliary Cable Cord/Crystal-Nylon Braided / 24K Gold Plated / 99.99% 4N OFC Conductor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHSR9T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Doh3CbF8FZ03H
Hey, I own a pair of M-Audio AV40 studio monitors and would like to add on a JBL LSR310S subwoofer. Here's how I'm thinking to hook it up, did I get it right?
If you have to use that device as if it's a soundcard device on the laptop, but wireless, the only way I can think of to do this is with some "network USB hub" gear. This will basically extend your usb cable over your LAN (wired or wifi) to allow your laptop to connect to your SE22 as if the USB cable was plugged into the laptop.
Unfortunately, these are hard to come by these days. Belkin made one that I had very good luck with back in like 2012 (used it for professional applications), but although they are still available on amazon, they are discontinued and YMMV getting it to work with Windows 10. There's also this one which I cannot vouch for and it's a bit expensive. Finally, there are software options which you may be able to wire up with another device of your own; perhaps like a raspberry pi or some such. It might be an adventure in learning!
All of these solutions will require a rock-solid fast wifi connection, probably won't handle any communication breaks well, and will introduce a bit of latency into the equation. If you're just trying to play music for listening, this shouldn't matter. But if you're trying to do sound editing or whatnot, it probably will matter. Again, YMMV.
EDIT: Another thought, if you just want to play music through your 8020's ...why do you even need to use the SE22 at all? Just get yourself like a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, yes, but easy to find) and get yourself one of these cables and plug the chromecast directly into your 8020's.
3.5mm to XLR Adapters exist - I should have added that in my description but I forgot what they were called.
There are several models of Alesis USB powered monitors with varying connectivity options.
For example, the Alesis M1 Active 320 USB Powered Studio Monitors take USB or unbalanced RCA or TS inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TS connector.
The Alesis M1 Active 520 USB Studio Monitors take a pair of TRS balanced inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TRS connector.
Information about specific Alesis products is available at https://www.alesis.com. You may wish to refer to the manual of the specific Alesis USB monitors you are considering.
Most powered speakers that take balanced inputs will also take unbalanced inputs through an appropriate cable. There are many cables having one balanced end and one unbalanced end, for example:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML/
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Connectors-Shielded-Oxygen-Free-Conductors/dp/B001UJH0XU/
Just to confirm:
ps4 connected to Optical to RCA analog converter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Sx1DbEX2GJC1
Then: RCA to XLR cable run from converter to speakers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IVx1DbM7QG40N
So as an example, would this be an acceptable item to be used from speaker to phono pre amp?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B077L3PG45&pd_rd_wg=MW9i0&pd_rd_r=4TC159932F75PTN5ST2D&pd_rd_w=SywHN
I used the USB-C adapter on the Pixel 2 with a Rode Video Mic (not the VideoMicro, the bigger one) WITH a TRRS adapter. That adapter broke so I just ordered https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MC3-Microphone-Adapter-Smartphones/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ which looks like it should do the job. The Google Camera on the Pixel 2 does recognize the external Rode mic with the TRRS adapter plugged into the USB-C adapter, it shows as "external mic" on the interface where you can select it or the internal mic.
I'm looking to get a QSC amplifier with a built-in crossover. It takes a mono RCA/XLR signal in this configuration. I will be using a phone or chromecast audio as the source. My plan is to use this connector to convert from 3.5mm stereo to XLR mono. Will this work alright? I'm still not entirely certain about balanced/unbalanced loads and I want to make sure that this is a clean stereo -> mono conversion that won't have the channels cancel each other out. Thanks!
For the JBL LSR305, I obviously know I will not need an amp since they are powered speakers, but I was wondering what the best solution would be to connect them easily to an ipod, computer etc...
I'm imagining a 3.5mm to xlr such as the one listed below, however I am not too sure since I've never had speakers with these types of inputs. Please help me out with the best cost/performance cabling option for these speakers, amazon preferred.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/
that Perception120 on Amazon is an XLR plug my camcorder only has a 3.5mm audio jack there is a conversion dongle? If so would that effect the noticeable quality?
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415654239&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+cable+to+3.5mm Something like this? right?
Not sure if you ever figured it out but I'm techie and i know a thing or two about audio recording and such. First thing first, what EXACTLY are you having trouble with?
Based on what i see, the issue is you need to convert the signal from the power source to the sound card with something like this adapter.
That would at least get it working, although i have no idea how it would sound because of all of the adapters. Laptops make things difficult sometimes :X
But i'd have no trouble helping you figure it out if you haven't already. Either reply here and PM if you have more issues.
It was the second one. I think I understand what you're saying now.
Would something like this work to just have 1 volume knob or would I be in the same boat as before? Hosa XVM-110M Right Angle 3.5mm TRS to XLR3M 10 Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A4QNwb330PDSW
That's not really going to get you much as far as usable audio goes, and leaves you nothing for a boompole/cables/etc.
I'm guessing your short films have dialogue? The on-camera (which camera are you using?) mic will not work. Sorry, it sounds like absolute shit 90% of the time. You'll want a boompole (which you can make yourself- look online).
You're going to want to buy used. I'll copy-paste a reply I wrote elsewhere:
On the cheap, will exceed your budget though:
Tascam DR-40 or DR-05. You should go for the 40. Built-in mics for ambiance (probably shouldn't use these to get dialogue unless you absolutely have to). Decent recorder, takes AA's, and can be found used for around $150. http://used.guitarcenter.com/usedgear/index.cfm has one for $150, search for "tascam dr40" and it'll pop up. Talk 'em down on the price, too.
I haven't used the DR-05 so I can't vouch for the quality of it's inputs, but at this price you won't be getting class A preamps. It is what it is, but read the reviews and find which cheap recorder is the most usable for this purpose.
Audio-Technica AT835B. It's AA battery-powered so you don't need phantom mic power on your recorder. One used will run you from $1-175 Here's one on ebay for $165 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Technica-AT835b-Shotgun-Mic-w-clip-windscreen-cable-prior-to-AT8035-/290759720787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b2a13f53
Build a boom pole. There a lot of tutorials on the internet on how to do it for free or cheap, depending on what you have around your house.
Build or buy a shockmount for the mic. A basic shockmount starts at around $30-40.
Buy/acquire/borrow an XLR-1/8" cable. The mic output is XLR female and the input on most recorders in this price range is 1/8" (otherwise known as "headphone jack-sized"). $7-10. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=pd_cp_e_1 (if you're booming it you'll want at least a 15' cord)
Headphones. You might have some around. Ideally I'd say borrow or use the best ones you can get. Don't use ones with "super bass" or anything. You want them as flat-sounding as possible.
And finally: do some studying on audio. Practice a lot. And don't forget to clap to sync your audio track and video track for post.
Hey I heard someone say dynamic microphones are better for noisy enviroments because you have to have them closer to you, right? I have no experience with xlr, but would this setup work?
Mic: Shure SM 58
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQRSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Mic Holder:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEHM8U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311BEHFUHRLQM
Mic Stand: Rode PSA1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7UYBO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (I think since the mic is dynamic, I don't need it right?)
Phantom Power ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XUUXB8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
XLR Cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD6O342M484G6
XLR to USB cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6WZGHS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1155GBV4DPEXU (If I don't need phantom power, I just need this cable right?)
Generic wind screen:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I know this isn't ideal because I need like a mixer or something, but would it work decently? I would prefer if the price stayed the same, this is pushing my budget a bit.
Oh, and do I need an adapter for my microphone to go into the stand, stuff like that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
Would this work? To connect a Scarllet Solo to a at2020 Mic
No if you don't want to get phantom power you should be able to plug in directly into your computer (because it comes with the XLR to aux cable) IF your computer provides enough power, if not then it would need phantom power and a female to male XLR cable like so.
This is in the product description:
>NOTE:
>1.The Condenser Microphone only works with the device that could provide enough power(Voltage Required:5V) for it.
When connected with desktop computer, the Microphone could be used alone;
When connected with laptop computer, please connect the laptop to electrical outlet, or use a 48V phantom power to get enough power if the sound is not clear and high enough.
>2.If your device could not provide enough power(when used with Amplifier or Mixer, etc.), the sound volume recorded might be low, and please use a extra 48V phantom power adapter to connect it.(phantom power adapter is not included).
>3.The microphone can not be used with mobile phone and tablet computer. *NOTE: It cannot work with Mac.
>4.If you want better sound effect, a sound card should be used.
>5.When recording, please put the microphone away from the amplifier to prevent recording noise due to amplifier.
I hope I'm posting this in the right place.
I'm looking for a low-end solution for recording vocals, connected to a PC.
I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with audio hardware. My wife loves to sing - and though I am of course biased, I think she's pretty good at it - and so I want to get her a gift of some recording equipment.
I'm not looking for anything high-end; I'd like for it to be "decent", but it doesn't have to be professional level hardware. I'd like to be able to get everything for somewhere between $300-400 if possible. So, specifically, I'm looking for...
I assume there might need to be an amp in there somewhere? I don't know, I don't know anything about this stuff.
Would anyone please be willing to give me some recommendations on parts, and what specifically I will need? Thank you.
Edit: Okay, what about this?
AT-2020 Mic
Scarlett Solo USB Interface
Mic Stand
Pop Filter
XLR Cable
Seinnheser HD280 Headphones
Copy/paste of a budget setup I've been putting together lately:
I think all told that runs you about $400, but you can use that to set up a solid Glyn Johns set up. If you want to multitrack the rest of a band, the Pyle will work well on guitar cabs, you can DI the bass and use the kick mic on the cab, and condenser mics will do pretty much anything else. I have a better setup for doing final takes, but this is more or less my current setup for demos.
Also, if you're really strapped for cash, you can start with just the interface and one condenser mic, although it won't be great. From there, get the kick and snare mics, then a second OH when you have the money.
I would recommend a couple Neewer NW-700 new on eBay my NW700 review ($30 each with a boom stand). Behringer Q802USB mixer and a couple of cheap mic cables
Thanks for the suggestions about the volume levels. What isolation pads do you have?
I think these cables will work.
I also need one of these for my headset.
So i bought this mic
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CZ0R3S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this stuff to go with it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VJJQUU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019NY2PKG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And now it seems that my roland duo-capture n225 died new out of the box after a few days and was having problems using it with audacity.
Best course of action for hooking up this mic to my laptop at this point?
Yes, I am using this cable
Make sure you buy the following extras with that mic bundle, or your PC will not pick up your voice:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BTSKY-trade-Condenser-Recording-Microphone/dp/B00S0QAA5Q/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG
 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG
My house is not humid at all. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/ref=pd_sim_267_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41A14XWa3kL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1N2GJC1TX8HQXGT0KY9X are teh cables I am using according to the seller they are balanced.
This problem continues if just plugged directly into mixer. Any other ideas this is killing me :S
Unfortunately I'm no expert in the area.
You'd probably be better asking in something like /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
Getting a mixer second hand is probably your best bet, but off the top of my head you'd need something like:
But please ask some experts, I've no idea if that setup would actually work. You'll be needing those 6 things though (1x Mixer, 2x Mics, 2x Mic Cables and 1x 3.5mm Mic jack to Mixer connection cable), maybe not those specific models though.
Haha thanks for pointing out the chapstick. I guess I accidentally pasted the wrong link from a different post of mine. I meant this cable.
But aside for the connectors being slightly to big, it's not like the cheap cables give worse audio or anything similar?
I'm considering getting this recorder to pair with my xlr cable.
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Cable-Patch-Cords/dp/B003JJQMD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481398801&sr=8-1&keywords=XLR+cable+GLS
Heres a link
Mics:
This gets you enough versatility to capture everything you listed and be able to get choosy with tone.
Interface/Software:
The Scarlett gets you 4 tracks of simultaneous recording. If you can get even decent drum sounds out of 4 tracks, you'll be a boss when you step up to 8 or 16 tracking. As for the software, I'd start with Reaper and see if you like it. In the meantime, get demos of various other DAWs like Cubase or something and see if it makes any sense to you. If you find a DAW that seems appealing to you, try it. Even if you have to pirate it, give it a go and see if it's worth the money to you.
Monitoring:
Those JBLs are nice. Do not use the headphones as a crutch, only to reference when mixing or for close (or isolated) listening when tracking. All will be good.
Accessories:
I disagree with djpeef about getting a MudGuard. It's very unnecessary unless you plan on doing voiceover work.
Subtotal = $1401
With $99 bucks left you can get a MIDI controller if you'll be needing one.
I think that about covers it...
Provided there are no issues with this setup, would these cables be suitable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Twin-Male-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485010870&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+xlr
Hey thanks so much for the help! Just for clarity, would something like this allow me to run 2 speakers connected only to my controller? (that way I don't need a mixer?)
https://www.amazon.com/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Male-Twin-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0CSYMG319ZZ5KGDXQ0G7
Awesome. Thank you very much. I think I will use the last route and run the RCA => XLR adapter. Also would you give a quick look and tell me if this is the cable I need?
Thank you very much. Its quite confusing for me since the AVR has 2 connections, for which I can only use one and the sub also has 2 :/ Theres barely any cable here with mono male RCA to male XLR in Germany though.
Can I also use something like this and just use one rca connection and cover the other and use both XLR connections?
https://www.amazon.de/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Serie-Twinkabel-M%C3%A4nnlich/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538578233&sr=8-6&keywords=cinch+xlr
Or maybe something like this is better, and I just cover one rca?
https://www.amazon.de/Cables-ProCab-Serie-REF703-Instrumentenkabel/dp/B004BR2VJ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538578233&sr=8-9&keywords=cinch+xlr
Great, thanks for the information - I wouldn't have known. Sorry to trouble you further, but my reasoning for the DI box was that the 2i2 only has xlr inputs - do you know of a way around that? I think I'll use the RCA tape out from the receiver if that helps.
edit: google provided this which seems like it'd work unless there is some sort of balanced/unbalanced fuckery uppery involved that I am ignorant of
So the S2 Mk3 had aux and rca out and the speakers have TRD and XLR in so any of the "in" to "out" combinations should be fine. I'd recommend RCA to XLR, like this
this and this Looks like the 1075 has RCA out so you could just buy this if you want to plug your chromecast right into the projector
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Twin-Male-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451992509&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+to+rca i ordered this x2
Just checked the CMD 4a, it doesn't have XLR or TRS outs, so you'll need to buy RCA male to either 1/4" TRS or XLR male connector. The difference between TRS and XLR, other than the different plug, is that XLR is balanced while TRS is generally unbalanced, although it can be. Really balanced cables only matter for running longer cables, do you should be fine with the cables mentioned above unless you need these speakers to be more than 20-30 feet (about 6-9 meters) from your controller.
Edit: this cable is about 3 meters long and would let you connect two speakers (a left and right channel) if you wanted to. You can go longer if you need to but that is the type of cable you should look for.
Will this work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003SOR6UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510354212&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rca+to+xlr
Yep. I got a cheaper XLR one. We'll see how it turns out tomorrow.
Neewer Mic Stand
$15 ish
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cu8Zxb1WCA7N5
AT2020 $88
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_kv8ZxbDDA21QD
Scarlett Solo $100
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3y8ZxbHHPDGMC
Hosa XLR cable $12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TPDBGC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_sC8ZxbZJZGRXD
This is almost identical to what I used for a while, besides us having a gen 1 2i2 instead of a gen 2 solo. You can upgrade the microphone down the line without upgrading the interface.
Whether or not you can get free shipping will probably impact shipping a lot, we have prime so I'm not sure how much shipping will cost.
I would recommend you to try the stuff out before buying audio equipment if possible. I feel like with this much money you shouldn't leave anything to a leap of faith, plus what mic suits my voice can be a lot different than what suits yours.
Edit: I forgot to mention: I hate the Neewer stand, but I can't possibly recommend the Rode PSA1 to someone with a 200-300 budget.
Well, here is a Hosa Pro 5 foot HMIC-005 cable
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HMIC-005-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone/dp/B004TP4IZU
and a 10 foot HMIC-010
https://www.amazon.com/HMIC-010-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone-Cable/dp/B004TPDBGC/
which is a common length election since you didn't suggest what you wanted.
The audio on cheap cables is likely the same but better cables have better shielding which is nice but not a huge deal for short runs at home, and better connectors with better strain relief so they are less likely to be damaged and need to be replaced. There are better cables but they are three or more times as expensive for little gain. And Hosa Pro have a lifetime warranty.
!
What you need is:
Chromecast -> 3.5mm to 2x TS -> Subwoofer -> 2xXLR -> Each monitor
If you want simple and cheap, Pyle has a lightweight double-DI box for $15, and you will need two [speaker cables] (http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-SRS18-3-StageMASTER-Connectors/dp/B00HB78DSQ). You will also need XLR cables to go from the DI to the recorder.
A USB dynamic microphone, Similar to this one. Dynamic microphones generally are more directional than condenser microphones.
You could even pick up something like one of these guys and pair it with this cable.
Here is a review of the Knox and one for the PD Mic58.
will the at2020 work if i use this converter
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Microphone-female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B005HH2GCQ
My one in particular? I can if you want but this is the one I bought.
The microphone works and records but I have to unplug it in order to hear the recordings.
I'm not using any TS or TRRS connectors for the sm7b, it connects via usb. This is the xlr to usb cable I bought. It's used to connect the arttube to my pc. I believe I configured it correctly, with or without the phantom power running, the hiss is still there. I should definitely try taking it a friend's house though, thanks for suggesting that.
The only solution I can think of would be to find a weird female USB to TS and hope it works like my combination headset. Or perhaps this cable?
I currently have the jbl lsr 305s and I'm looking to add a subwoofer. I play solely off my iphone 6 via google chromecast audio.
What gear do I need to make the jbl lsr 310 (the subwoofer) work? Do I just need XLR cables? Here are the ones I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Plated-Microphone/dp/B00KO8VYMG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ
Will I need an audio interface?
Thanks in advance
> Would I just use 2 1/4 to XLR wires to connect the speakers to the sub, 1 for each speaker?
No. You need this type of cable. Basically "XLR Microphone cable".
Okay, thanks a bunch. So for example this for the chromecast and then this for the xlrs? Also maybe a dumb question but how does the chromecast work with everything, like where do I plug it in? Wouldn't I have to plug it in to all three to get it to work for all three or is that not how it works? Again, thanks.
Yeah, you just need a TRS to TRRS adapter. Rode makes one but there are many others out there.
Rode SC4 3 inches Microphone Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fqj2AbXM6AMC8
Haha, no worries, we all start off somewhere! A cold shoe expander like the other one linked, or like this would work. Then you need a cold shoe adapter (the official Zoom one is way overpriced).
You can plug the Takstar into your phone with something like this. You can also get a TRS to TRRS adapter cable, but make sure you get one specifically for phones (like this). Not all regular cables will work.
Not without an adapter.
You'd need something like this.
Yes, look for a 3.5mm TRS to TRRS adapter like this
You may need an adapter like this;
https://www.amazon.ca/Rode-SC4-inches-Microphone-Cable/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I’d hold it there for a second. I’ve tried using aux chords with my xbox controller with no success. A straight cable from the xbox controller to the mixer/amp won’t work to begin with. A converter might work, but I can’t verify at the moment (Cali, no power), but they’re kinda absurdly expensive. Anyways he’s a list of everything he would need. I’ll have to verify if it would work though. But at least there’s a price to think about.
Mixer(portable and small):
https://www.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-Mixer-Portable/dp/B01LPT8KQA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=single%2Bchannel%2Bmixer%2Bbattery&qid=1572510307&sr=8-7&th=1&psc=1
Aux cable:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Meters-2-Pack/dp/B079L8FTZN/ref=sxin_2_pb?
Converter:
https://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC4-Microphone-Cable-Inches/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=rodes+converter&qid=1572510590&sr=8-6
Xbox-con>converter>aux>mixer>headphones.
Hi /u/The_Movie_Kid - congratulations on your new camera. As a start, here's a great tutorial on microphone selection from Wistia: http://wistia.com/learning/choosing-a-microphone
Sadly, your T3i has noisy preamps that will degrade your sound quality even with an external microphone.
The least expensive solution is probably to buy a [$50 mic with a TRRS jack] (http://amzn.to/1v6obcz) or a standard mic with a [$20 TRS to TRRS adapter] (http://amzn.to/1wwaBSR) and plug it into your phone. If you have an iPhone, you can use [Rode Rec LE] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8) (free) to record your audio and match it to your video in the editing suite with software like [PluralEyes] (http://www.adorama.com/RDGSHOPLURD.html?KBID=66297), which is about $179 for a non-student version.
Good luck!
This is a TRRS mic for iphones and other smart phones
You want a TRS mic to work with your gopro.
You can just buy a TRRS to TRS adapter and it should work fine.
Exactly what you need. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6C8PNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yZ4DAbG3181J1
But in its current state you’re not supposed to be using it that way— you can use it with your phone through the Rode app in its current state but for everything else— like your mentioned computer input, SLR and audio recorder all require the TRS adaptor. Phones have the audio connection TRRS which is not up to the TRS quality. You need this adaptor if you want to use it with anything else besides a smart phone and that’s why you’ve gotten sub par results: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6C8PNU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If this is the problem and you don't want to switch headset, there probably are TRRS -> TRS adapters available.
http://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC3-3-5mm-TRRS-Adaptor/dp/B00L6C8PNU
Hi,
​
Does anyone know why my external microphone (a Saramonic SmartMic https://www.amazon.com/Saramonic-SmartMic-Microphone-Devices-Black/dp/B0142ASNY8) which is a TRRS plug, when plugged into my TRRS to TRS adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC3-3-5mm-TRRS-Adaptor/dp/B00L6C8PNU), and then the adaptor plugged into my iPhone 6S Plus' headphone jack (a TRS I believe), my mic does not seem to be working.
​
The voice memos and all my video recordings are still using my iPhone's internal microphones and not my external mic. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but is there any fix for this? I really do need to get an external mic working on my iPhone.
​
Thanks!
Something like this could be a possible workaround if it's wired correctly?
Edit: I used a somewhat related method to add mic capabilities to my Fidelio X2's:
Product 1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTEPUIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - this will work on the Nexus 6P if your headphones has a detachable jack.
Product 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This will split the headphone and mic signals from the above cable into separate channels. In my case it was required for computer use since I use an external DAC for the headphones (which does not support TRRS) and had to split the mic into a separate cable. Works like a charm (you'll lose the button functionality here but that's to be expected) :)
>Both have the small bar on the cord with the volume up and down buttons.
Well, I'm not too familiar with these, so I'm not sure if that's where the microphone is. The best way to make sure is to see if the cable end you're plugging into your receiver looks like this - or if it looks like this. If it's the latter, you'll run into the problem I've described earlier. You'll could obtain a cable from Bose for a hassle free solution, or experiment with adapters - I say experiment because pinouts can vary.
If you're on a low budget a Zoom H1 and a Rode Lav mic will work great, with that mic you'll need an adaptor as it is designed to work with phone ports
Yup this is why I always have a few of these around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6C8PNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thing is Deity claims their mics like the D3 will adapt itself either TRS or TRRS however I've found this only works with certain equipment.
Would something like this work in the output rather than the one with the 3.5?
https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-Microphone-Converter-Microphones-Instruments/dp/B019GYKGRC/ref=pd_sim_267_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019GYKGRC&pd_rd_r=4FQQ0S2HSD6E9RDJ7TJC&pd_rd_w=qk22M&pd_rd_wg=6KV6W&psc=1&refRID=4FQQ0S2HSD6E9RDJ7TJC
No worries at all. On that power supply, there's only an XLR in, and an XLR out. There's no way to plug an XLR connection into a computer without some sort of ADC (analog to digital converter). Usually, that's your audio interface. It takes your analog XLR signal, and converts it into a digital signal that your computer can understand.
I was in your situation once, before I knew much about audio. I had an XLR mic (Shure SM57) that I used to use for my band's shows and stuff, but I wanted to use it for gaming later on. I bought this stupid thing assuming it would let me do that. Well, technically it worked, but I was so quiet that my friends couldn't hear me at all. After I returned that, I bought this Behringer interface hoping it would fix my problems. It was better, but I had to crank the volume up to full for anybody to hear me still. Plus, the headphone output on it was TERRIBLE. It sounded bad, and it behaved weird with video playback. No bueno.
Learn from my mistakes. Go this way before you spend dumb money on it haha
I don't use blankets or anything. I just use a Pyle PDMIC58 with an XLR to USB cable to connect the mic to my computer where I record with Audacity.
If you want to hear what that sounds like you can check out my podcast, Wedding Photo Hangover.
Also, I picked that mic based on Marco Arment's mic review. He reviewed a ton of mics and has sample audio files from those mics. You can check that out on his website marco.org.
In thinking about it one way around this could be to get a USB > XLR adapter. I am not sure how well they work or any specific design to recommend but I would check Monoprice for them and test one out. This way you could retain the USB mic you currently have and maybe for the second mic buy an XLR with the idea of maybe replacing the other later or if it works well keep this configuration. An XLR AT2020 may actually be less expensive than the USB version (if my memory is correct) but they are nearly identical in performance.
*Edit: Not an endorsement just an example of the cable Iam talking about XLR to USB Cable
If you are only looking to also record the sermon, etc, you can set up an aux out with a mix and send it to a laptop via usb with one of these. I use one as a backup to record the sermons in case the USB recording fails on the M32. (that happens about twice a year.) This, like love, never faileth.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Microphone-Condenser-Recording-Equipment/dp/B01I1OEN7C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=neewer+48v&qid=1563905988&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Thank you so much for the reply I was starting to lose hope. So would you rather me get the Second choice and a separate phantom power? or should I go for the one you suggested. My roommate has a phantom power supply, I believe it's this one( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1OEN7C/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_boF8F_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=RXN38YZATDXMF0KBAJRM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=152a981b-e661-5184-9490-71a0c291599a&pf_rd_i=11974571 )
Would this work fine or should I just spend the extra 10 on the built in one?
Oh, you'll want one of these or something similar.
Headsets and combo ports (TRRS jacks - Tip Ring Ring Sleeve) have four sort of...segments on the connector for left headphone, right headphone, mic, and ground. Headsets without microphones use a TRS (tip ring sleeve) with 3 segments, which, as you probably know, omits the microphone and is just left, right, and ground. A TRS (3-pin) plug in a TRRS (4-pin) jack appears as left, right, ground and ground (so the mic pin is connected to ground, indicating to the computer that there is no mic).
Unfortunately, 3.5mm microphones also use a TRS plug, with the 3 segments being left mic, right mic and ground (although most mics connect the same actual microphone to both the left and right channels). As I mentioned, plugging a TRS plug into a TRRS jack lines up with the headphone outputs (left headphone, right headphone, and ground) and leaves the microphone pin connected to ground, so the computer sees (mic, mic, ground, ground). The computer isn't smart enough to know that there's a microphone connected, and assumes that anything plugged into that port must be (left headphone, right headphone, mic, ground), and since the mic is connected to ground, this must be a headset without a microphone (ironic, isn't it?). This means that, yes, it thinks your microphone is a pair of headphones and it's trying to play sound through it.
The adapter I mentioned takes a (mic, mic, ground) at one end, and puts a (no connect, no connect, mic, ground) at the other. In other words, the computer sees a headset with microphone. Unfortunately, it will attempt to play sound through this headset, and since the left and right headphone pins are left unconnected, this sound will go nowhere.
If you can't convince Windows to force output to the speakers when there are headphones plugged in (some laptops can do this, but some can't), use this instead of the adapter mentioned above. This adapter takes a TRRS (left, right, mic, ground) at one end and splits it to two TRS jacks at the other, one (mic, mic, ground) for the microphone, and one (left, right, ground) for a pair of headphones.
Pioneer DJM-REC app, will record from headphone jack if the correct TRRS cord is used.
I’ve used this one Movo MC3 3.5mm TRS (Female) Microphone Adapter Cable to TRRS (Male) for iPhone & Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cZwCCbFC2DFGS
Yeah you want to buy a trs to trrs adapter.
Regular headphone jacks used on stereos, all music equipment that predates smartphones, are TRS cables.
The smartphone era invention of a headphone cable that also includes a functioning mic is TRRS.
You want to get one of these bad boys
https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MC3-Microphone-Adapter-Smartphones/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549229375&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trs+to+trrs+adapter&psc=1
Sounds like you need an audio interface with usb and line in input to work with the laptop and your cell phone. I would go with the interface for the computer. As the USB will send a cleaner signal vs the 3.5mm
Or get a cables like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2ZG6HGWDZ4CLF&keywords=audio+interface+with+line+in&qid=1555876216&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=audio+interface+with+lin%2Cmi%2C236&sr=1-25
​
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML
This is an "Impedance Matching Transformer", meaning it will match the microphone level to a line level. Here's some info on why you can't just use a normal adapter:
"It's not the best way to do it, but it works. People do it all the time. Microphones output a 'low impedance signal' whereas guitars output a 'high impedance signal.'
"This subject can get very complicated, but suffice to say that low impedance is microphones, and high impedance is line level outputs (synthesizers, guitars, amplified signals).
"Mismatching results in a very distinct tonal shift, or heavy distortion depending on the level of mismatch."
-Some dude on a forum
https://www.gearslutz.com/board/low-end-theory/343776-huge-noob-question-can-you-plug-mic-into-guitar-effects-pedal.html
Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002CZYFC/ref=ya_st_dp_summary