Check out the Ditto X2

If you have a guitar or other string instriment, then this tuner is really awesome! I bought one for my boyfriend this past christmas and he uses it constantly.

Snark tuner for the acoustic guitar. Lightweight, clips on the neck, and only $10 at Amazon.

My suggestion would be a looper pedal. Extremely fun to play with and practical practicing tool.

https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Ditto-Looper-Effects/dp/B00AZUAORE

I'm going to try to offer suggestions that don't cost a lot of money or time.

• This is the only one that costs money: replace the curtains. I see the beginnings of an eclectic, modern room, and these are a bit too sweet. I would suggest something simple, textured, hanging straight down (instead of being gathered at the sides) and reaching closer to the floor. I think you have blinds under there, so ditch the white sheer under-curtain. If you're renting, color would be great here, especially if you pull a color from the bedspread. Maybe these without the tie-backs.
  
  
• Once you frame the window with some nice drapes, it will be the highlight of that wall. I feel the pictures to the left of the wall are crowded and they'll be competing for attention with the window. But they would be perfect over the desk. There are five with different shapes and sizes, so give them each some space on the wall and don't try to line them up - do them kind of like this. You can put the photos over the desk up there with the drawings if you like.
  
  
• Might want to consider hanging the guitars on the wall with something like this - it would look great, and free up floor space. I would keep an eye out for a small table to put your corner lamp on. That lamp is tall, but it's not quite a floor lamp. The lamp will light the room better, and it will create a place to put music/picks/etc.
  
  
• The shaggy rug is in kind of an awkward place. I can't tell if it's new or old. If it's in good shape, I would pull it out and put it to the side of the bed (only if there's enough room to do that without interfering with the office chair).
  
  
• Do you still have a wrapper on one of the candles above your bed? I'm not really sure what's going on here. I don't quite like the shelf above your bed - I'm thinking that a) it's too easy for someone to hit their head during...uh...bed-related activity and b) it seems to split up the beautiful continuity between the white bedframe and white picture frame. I would remove the shelf and move the pictures down just a bit. Where to put the shelf? Hmm. Not sure. I'm open to suggestions from commenters. I would put one of the plants and a candle holder on the nightstand. Think they would look nice there.
  
  
• Why is the floor mirror next to the desk there in one picture and gone the next? Anyway, I would mount this on a door or put it in a closet if possible - the traditional look just doesn't jive with your sleek desk and bed.
  
  Finally, make your bed! It will make the whole room look nicer! Good job, I think this is a really cool room!

get something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-BPHS1-Broadcast-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2) and stop using a mic that is not suited to how he wants to use it just because it is the mic rush limbaugh uses.

im a snark enthusiast. (mm super tight®)

Last time this topic came up someone suggested a Cajon (square wood drum) carrying bag. In fact, many of the reviews mention how great they are for carrying games. I've been toying with the idea of getting this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-S-Padded-Shoulder-Standard/dp/B00IRMEZTK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=cajon%2Bbag&qid=1550543093&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

You want a practice mute. Regular mutes are used in orchestral and chamber music to change the tone, but they don't really affect the volume.

A rubber practice mute is lighter, and since it dampens less of the overtones, it sounds nicer but diminishes volume less than a heavier mute. A metal practice mute will give you maximum volume control, but since it dampens so much of the sound, it can mislead your ear if you ONLY practice with it on. The Artino rubber-coated metal mute came out a few years ago, and it's supposed to give you the best of both worlds. I find that it has a little bit nicer sound than a traditional metal mute, but mostly I like that it grips the bridge better and won't vibrate off while playing, which metal mutes will sometimes do.

A practice mute is definitely something you should own. But I wonder, why don't you want to annoy your family? Unless the only time you can practice is in the middle of the night, they should just deal. Practicing is important and necessary to get better; they need to understand that. Plus, they have to love you no matter how bad you sound. Being self-conscious just because they might be able to hear you is counterproductive. I hope you're concentrating on doing what you need to be doing when you're practicing, and not what anyone else is thinking.

I use the TC Ditto. For the money, you can't really beat it. Plus it doesn't take up a lot of space.

These are fun accessories, if they don't have them already (it also depends on the games they have):

• A fancy dice tower (if they play games with dice)
  
  
• Some nice poker chips (if they play games with paper money, and don't have these already) - this can be pretty expensive
  
  
• Posters
  
  
• Fancy inserts for games they play often (good overview video ) For a lot of games there are also recommended plano boxes that will fit in the game box.
  
  
• Board game carrying bag. There are a lot of these but I did some quick googling and these are among them
  
  
• For some games, you can buy fancy bits. Here are some, but there are other websites if you dont see a good fit there.
  
  
• Maybe a gift card to a local board game cafe where they can try things out?

I'd say not immediately. Get this onespot daisychain pack. It will be super solid and can handle a fair bit of expansion, then when you have a better idea of what your permanent pedal setup will be you can upgrade to a power supply that will fit your needs.

The Issue

As I see it, a beginner has two main issues when it comes to choosing a guitar:

1. Uncertainty if you'll actually stick with it long term. This discourages significant investment.
   
2. Unfamiliarity with guitars in general. You just don't know what the different specifications or features do or mean, so you can't really have an opinion to guide you on these things.
   
   Entry Level Guitars
   
   In response the first thing I would say is that any guitar is better than no guitar. You don't want to get something that really sucks to the point of it being really hard to play and inhibiting progress. But the quality of entry level guitars is actually pretty high, so I wouldn't be too worried about it.
   
   Next, don't feel like you have to make the 'perfect' purchase. The reality is that you probably can't. Even if you are committed and certain you'll stick with it, you'll not be able to know what your preferences are long term. That's okay. The only way to learn what your preferences are is by playing lots of guitars. So think of this as the first, but not necessarily the last guitar you'll ever own. So if all you can afford is the basic $100 Squier then that's totally fine. I started with one and many of us have done the same. On a very basic level try to get a guitar that you like. You want to like how it looks as that can inspire you to pick it up. You want it to feel good in your hands on a very basic level.
   
   There is no magic bullet though. A $100 guitar is just fine for learning, but it won't have the same level of long term quality or value. Realize that if you stick with it you'll probably have to upgrade. That's totally okay, but that is part of the deal when you only spend $100.
   
   Best Value
   
   I maintain that there is nothing wrong with starting with a $100 Squier. But these guitars aren't perfect. By getting the price that low you make some sacrifices. In terms of long term viability these guitars tend to struggle. They just aren't made to the higher quality standards, so after a few years they may start to fall apart. The wood, metal hardware, finish, and electronics just aren't that rugged.
   
   If you are a little more committed, willing to spend a little more, and spend some time and energy learning about things you can step up a level. If you can manage to bump your budget up a little to about $300-$500 and are willing to entertain the idea of a used guitar, then you can get some fantastic value.
   
   Why consider a used guitar? It is all about depreciation. Pretty simple stuff. A brand new Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster is $400 brand new. Play that guitar for a month and it becomes 'used'. This means its value drops to maybe $300. In reality though, the guitar is basically the same. Very good to excellent condition used guitars can be functionally identical to new guitars, but by buying used you don't take the depreciation hit. You can go ahead and sell that $300 used Telecaster in 6 months for about $300 and go even.
   
   But to buy used you need to be armed with more knowledge. You'll need to spend some time researching threads on 'what to look for when buying a used guitar' - and there are plenty of them on any guitar site, including /r/guitar.
   
   Specific Recommendations
   
   I tend to recommend 2 different families of electric guitars in this situation.
   
   
3. Squier Classic Vibe
   
4. PRS SE
   
   I recommend these for a few reasons. They are generally widely available. You shouldn't have a hard time finding one on your local Craigslist, eBay, Reverb.com, guitar center used, etc... They have a reputation of being high quality instruments. It is not uncommon for an experienced guitar player who has nice guitars of $1000 or more to be totally willing to own and play one of these. This is not as true for the $100 Squier or Epiphone. They offer some nice versatility to cover a wide range of musical genres and styles. They are quite durable instruments. They are easily modified into an instrument that can compete with something costing 2x or 3x its price tag. They are pretty stable long term investments. You won't get to a point 5 years from now where you think, man this guitar sucks I need a new one. You may want to get other guitars for variety of enjoyment, but you won't have to upgrade because it is falling apart. These guitars have a very solid presence on the used market, so if you don't stick with it you can easily sell it for close to what you bought it. Cheap $100 starter guitars have basically 0 resale value.
   
   Some honorable mentions go do Epiphone, Peavey, and Yamaha. They make pretty solid stuff in this price range as well.
   
   Kits
   
   I want to comment a little on kits. I personally think they're a little overrated. The appeal of a kit is the hope that you're getting everything you need, even if you don't know what you need. But you at times end up paying a little more without getting something you'll actually need. The quality also tends to be pretty low.
   
   So you can get a little better value by getting individual pieces yourself. It requires a little more research to arm yourself with some knowledge, but you can do it. Start with a guitar. You'll need a tuner. I recommend a Snark clip on. You'll need some picks. Get whatever you want or feels good. You may want to get an amp at some point. I recommend the Fender Mustang series. You'll also need a cable. Spend $20 on a simple, yet durable cable. Build your gear over time and you'll end up with better stuff.

I bought this bag last year and it works perfectly! It’s normally used for drums but it works great for toting to game nights. Price is way cheaper than the board game specific bags people are selling.

You mean with something like this? Make sure you screw it into wood, not just drywall.

Do the locking tuners upgrade!

Fender Locking Tuners - Polished Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LWW8BbSV95P9V

Fender American Series String Guides https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E2GMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uXW8BbY5T66GG

Awesome video! If you're interested in buying a boardgame bag it's really worth to watch it.

TL:DW;

• IKEA bags can be fine for people with cars but don't offer much protection
  
• Boardgame specific bags like Game Canopy are good but are really expensive. Also the Game Canopy ain't that big compared to others.
  
• This ChromaCast Cajon bag has decent capacity, good handle, and adequate padding. Backpack straps are nice to have for shot periods but are small and therefore uncomfortable for longer use. One of the cheaper bags. (I'm not sure which he reviews, the large or standard size)
  
• Schlagwark Cajon Bag has much nicer backpack straps but only loads games from the top (and is a lot more expensive from what I can find)
  
• Meinl cajon bag has uncofortable handles and no backpack straps.
  
• Rothco bag has the most capacity but not that much protection. The issue here is that if you fill the bag with games the bag becomes likely too heavy to carry comfortably.
  
  Scott concludes that:
  
  
• Rothco Parachute bag is best to haul a lot of stuff.
  
• Schlagwerk bag is best if you want padded protection to carry games on your back.
  
• Chromacast bag is best if you want padded protection and don't carry on your back.
  
• 2 dollar IKEA bag with straps is the bang for buck but offers no protection.
  
  But, like I said, really great video. See for yourself. He brings up other bags too and you can see how well each bag loads even without using standard size boxes.
  
  I'm always surprised how many people love those IKEA bags. Personally I'm more in the "prepare for the unexpected" camp and would rather spend a few extra dollars for some real protection even when transporting games with just my car. Board Games are expensive and it's easy to bang a large bag against a wall or door frame and having dents in your beautiful boxes. The additional costs of a Chromacast seems well worht it.
  
  an a the ChromaCast bag extra cost seems well worth it.

I use a drum bag. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GH8QTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=

​

I like that it's square and large and zips all the way. Plus not too expensive.

If you want to make your own, you just need a pick punch.

Guitar pick punch.

I use a drum bag. Someone else on this sub mentioned it one time. It works fantastic, and it carries standard size boxes really well. I will say that the shoulder straps aren't awesome, but the padding for the games is really great.

This is what I use and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRMHGQ4/ref=twister_B00JDNYOAW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Allow me to pass this tip forward.

This bag, while designed for a large square musical instrument is basically designed perfectly for anyone wanting to carry a number of board games. It has shoulder straps that are perfect, and unzipping the front panel to reveal all the games inside is too cool.

Here's what's been helping me with this exact same thing. I bought a looper pedal. (link to one I got below). Every day I just come up with a random chord progression... loop it... and try to solo over it for 15 minutes or so. When I get bored, I erase it and loop something else...

http://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Ditto-Looper-Guitar/dp/B00AZUAORE/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1382230051&sr=1-1&keywords=ditto+looper

First off, no need to apologize for inexperience. Asking good questions means you are gaining experience.

1. Now-a-days Squier makes a fine guitar, but just get it set up by someone who knows how if you haven't already! A good setup is so important to how any guitar plays. I would rather play your Squier with a good set up than an American fender with a shitty set up. As far as upgrades go I would think about some locking tuners. I think those are just drop in tuners with no drilling needed even for Squier, but I would make sure.
   
   
2. There are a ton of pickup makers out there but you can not go wrong with Seymour Duncan. Just browse around and take a look at their output and EQ charts that show how hot the pickup is and then listen listen listen to sound demos. Pickups are very subjective so youtube is a great tool.
   
   
3. Personally I love Elixir strings! They last a long time, especially if you have sweat like mine that kills strings very fast. That being said a lot of people don't like the feel of Elixir. They don't like the "slippery" feeling of the coating on the wound strings. If you want to stay with coated strings that feel more like traditional string you can check out D'addario EXP strings. Again it's subjective like anything else, so test drive and see what you like.
   
   
4. Oh boy pedals. Pedals can be a slippery slope financially haha. I also think /r/guitarpedals would be able to help you (better than I can at least) there but if you like distortion then I have heard a lot of good things about the Mesa Flux-Drive and the JHS Angry Charlie.
   
   As for your amp I do not have any personal experience with the Vypyr but if you like the sound and it is loud enough for your applications then go with it. Those are really the only things determining if you need a new amp. If you ever want to upgrade to a tube/valve amp I would suggest looking at the Marshall DSL line if you are into heavier tones and want to spend money.
   
   The pedals and amp are really based off what you like to play. If you are not satisfied with your current amp there are A LOT of good combos out there that are more affordable than tube amps. Andertons Music youtube channel just put out a great combo amp round up video you should check out if you want. I hope that all helps!

Has nobody heard of the wonderful string winders and cutters? So nice and convenient.

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C

This works great, and I don't have to worry about chipping nice dikes

I use a Snark chromatic tuner. Probably the best tuner I've used. This one is good for guitar. There's also the SN-2 which works for many more instruments, but costs a bit more.

Better uke setup, still cheap:

• Lanikai 21-T. This is a tenor uke, around $120. I love mine. The strings that come on it shouldn't, so next...
  
  
• Worth brown strings. These really helped my fingerpicking. $12.80, but the strings are cut long enough for two full sets. Crappy or dead strings will not help you develop your ear correctly. Being out of tune will also prevent your development, so next...
  
  
• Snark SN-2 tuner. About $12.00. Finally, you need something to play...
  
  
• The Daily Ukulele is great, and can be used to practice your rhythm playing or to develop fingerpicked versions of classics (lots of Beatles in here, and an easy uke arrangement of California Dreamin'). At a more advanced level, try Learn to Play Fingerstyle Ukulele Solos. If you have not really gotten into fingerpicking, starting this book will be a big revelation: you suck, because you can't play freaking Twinkle Twinkle Little Star the way the author arranged it (anyway, that's where I started). Learning these will be a long process, and you will probably want to make many detours, through scales practice, finger exercises, and music theory, but your playing (even for strummy things) will start improving enormously.
  
  I'll also assume that, since you are a Redditor and know what's up, that you don't need to be told to get a metronome like the Korg MA-30.
  
  So borrow a couple of textbooks instead of buying and set that money aside; that should be about enough to get all of this. Or save money some other way... A friend of mine had a serious Starbuck's habit. I don't think he even realized it, but he was dropping $5-$10 every day at Starbuck's and whining about how he had no money. Coffee at home and two months later, his first uke.
  
  Last, strumming... practice the living crap out of your strums. Count out loud. Use a metronome. Write down the patterns. Speaking and writing the strum patterns is important, drumming them out with your hand (off the uke) is also important. You need to think of the strum as a rhythm that's independent of your uke, like this magical, ideal, Platonic rhythm, and you with your poor wooden uke and your sad meat fingers have to try to mimic it; anything you can do to understand the rhythm better -- whether or not you do that thing on your uke -- will help improve your strum.
  

I mean, does comparing it to the cheapest option possible mean it really is a good deal? For $5 more you can get a much better cajon bag.

I got the Meinl Percussion cajon bag for $25, and it holds more games and has just a good a strap as the Canopy at a fraction of the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Cajon/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1492438798&sr=1-2&keywords=cajon+bag

I'm a big fan of this one. It lets me put stuff side by side more instead of stacking so much: https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Carrying/dp/B004GH8QTA/

That mute won't do much to reduce volume - if you really need to get it down use a metal one (or rubber covered metal). That will mute you to the level of an unplugged electric violin.

I recommend this one:

Otto Musica Artino Practice mute For violin / viola https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GCNUHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xxFIAbXM5A1TZ

A solid set of brand-new Fender brand tuners is only going to cost you $15 more...

Even the really nice sets are only going to run you about $60.

It's worth it. Don't cheap out on a component as critical as your tuners.

It's a daisy-chain. If you're going that route, might as well get the Truetone 1Spot, as it's tried and true.

Not going to be very quiet if you've got a lot of pedals, though.

I believe it's the Audio Technica BPHS1

I own a pair myself, the mic quality is fantastic. The audio quality is pretty damn good too.

You'll need some sort of DAC though, as it uses an XLR microphone connector and 6.25mm jack for the headphones.

You want a Snark. I prefer to tune by ear (use a tuning fork for the reference) but I got a snark for noisy environments. Best I've ever used.

> You'll also need some kind of tuner.

and I'd recommend a snark tuner

Guitar Pick Punch

Buy this and a couple cans of Copenhagen WG, dip em, punch em, superglue them together, and voila.

You can actually buy a punch that stamps the shape out so they're perfect every time. Like this one

Solid choice: https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-Original-PROCESS-PRIORITY/dp/B005FIFM14

I've never used one, but I've always thought that the pick punch sounded pretty cool.

Might not be bad if he's constantly losing picks.

I have two bags that I use:

• First up is the ChromaCast Large Cajon Bag. Pros are that it fits standard (i.e. Ticket to Ride size) boxes very well, has decent padding to protect your box corners while in transport, and the double zipper opening makes it very easy to access games even if they are at the bottom of the bag. Cons are that the shoulder straps and top handle are effectively useless if the bag is filled with games, and 100% will rip if you try to use them.
  
  
• Second is the IKEA FRAKTA bag. Pros are that it is dirt cheap, fits standard size boxes well, and you can actually use the shoulder straps and handles without them tearing. Cons are that the single zipper opening makes it difficult to reach games that aren't on top of the stack (you may need to partially unpack the bag to reach games), and that there is no padding, so you are taking the lives of the corners and edges of your boxes into your hands with this option.

Buy this $10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Y2Dn3IUAlHiBM

Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FL.UzbZFXXAA6

$11 from Amazon. It's perfect for the board.

From left to right, the boards are the Tan Tien, Dervish Sama, Icarus, and the Boosted Board. Tan Tien and Dervish Sama are more of my cruising boards with the Icarus a carving board. I mostly ride the Dervish and my wife rides the Tan Tien (since it's smaller). Also bought and returned the Loaded Overland (didn't like it as much)

The stands are the guitar stands from Amazon mentioned here a lot. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried out different trucks and wheels and found the orangatang 80a to be the best for me (same as on the Boosted Board). The 2 on the left have Caliber II trucks. I like the Caliber trucks since they spring back to neutral position quickly which is great for cruising and is very stable. The Icarus is meant for carving so it has looser Paris v2 trucks. I tried the 80mm Orangatang Kegal wheels on these boards and always managed to get wheelbite (and thus crashing) so I went with 70mm wheels and can ride without worrying

Nose and tail guards also from Amazon. Highly recommended as these went flying into the curb a few times and no damage to the board: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGJ8PHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps!

I have had this one for almost a year. It's pretty solid and fun to use. It doesn't come with the 9V power adapter it needs though, so if you don't already have one you need to get one for like 5-10 bucks. It is also the epitome of not too fancy, which could be a detraction. I definitely recommend it though, it's probably the best deal on the market.

Yep

I have had two sets of DR Neon 10-46 on my beloved PRS SE245 and they match the colours on the game strings. As a musically challenged nerd, I love that!

I've had 2 sets of them, because I think they look awesome! I still suck, however, but that's down to me, not the strings ;)

This cajon case is what a couple guys in my group use to transport games. It fits the standard square size game boxes. The only issue is the shoulder strap(s) kind of suck as there is no padding.

We normally bring the games to game night events so we got a Cajon bag. It's for a musical instrument that's a big box? It works SO WELL! It fit several games and was easy to carry. We paid about $27 usd.

We got this one in size large:

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-S-Padded-Shoulder-Standard/dp/B00IRMEZTK

I know you're not in the market, but I bought this one on Amazon after reading a BGG thread that recommended them. It works great and holds a ton of games.

I had to solve this for myself and over the past few months I've come up with the perfect solution. So I carry around 2 things:

• a Drum case to hold larger games. With the XL size I can probably hold 3-4 copies of Star Wars: Rebellion in it. On a normal game night I am probably stuffing it with 6-7 medium sized games, and a handful of small games that are too big to fit into....
  
• A Photo holder box, this is PERFECT for smaller games. The largest game I managed to fit into one of these containers is Lanterns, but I have mine filled with smaller games like One Night Ultimate Werewolf, Lost Cities, Rhino Hero, some Monikers cards. It has 16 cases but I've managed to stuff mine with almost 20 games.
  
  Both of those things I can hold 30+ games in 2 hands, and they are also organized as well so it's not a mess to look at. I also barely take them out of those containers since I just bring them inside and drop them down in a room, or (for the smaller games) I just leave it in my car.

It is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2

I use this and it works fine. If you put it on a tuning peg, be careful if you let go for a second. I've had it fall off and leave a small ding in the guitar body.

D'Addario Accessories Pro-Winder Guitar String Winder and Cutter - All-In-1 Restringing Tool - Includes Clippers, Bridge Pin Puller, Peg Winder - Designed to Fit Most Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eg5iDb87RY7Z1

Some of the items I already owned and a few I bought used, but the 12" pads are Evens ($28 each on Amazon) and the Cymbals were ($13 each on Amazon). The Cymbals were unfortunatly a really hard plastic so I ended up putting old rubber drum mutes on top of them. I got the bass drum pad used from guitar center for $60 and an extra old snare stand for $18. The rest I already owned.


Cymbals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002F7AEC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_hlH0DbC78QM0X

12" pads
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMDIXY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_GpH0DbAHS5CJC

While I totally agree. This is ultimately the same as daisy chaining and will still give you some noise. I would like to point out that it isn't "way cheaper"

Here is a one spot kit for 28 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RNB720/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467162959&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=one+spot+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=512O0YtGQRL&ref=plSrch

Here is the agptek for 36 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HH62VB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467163002&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=agptek+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51S%2BfzRko%2BL&ref=plSrch

For an additional 8 bucks you get the added benefit of a 12 and 18 volt power supply in a not convenient package.

I got one of them, knowing it was not isolated, to clean up my board. It is way easier to keep tidy with this then the one spot. Especially of you aren't using all of the plugs.

I've been using the D'Addario reed case for years and years (in fact mine still is branded Rico, RIP) and I love it. Holds 8 reeds of varying sizes with no problem and keeps the reeds pretty flat so they don't warp. I bulk order humidity packs so it's also pretty cost effective.

I don't have experience with the Vandoren Hygro Reed Case (which I assume your son wanted), but I have at least never heard of putting reeds in the refrigerator lol. If your son wants a reed case with a humidifier then I recommend the Rico/D'addario Reed Case which uses humidity packs instead of straight up moisture, and works really great in my opinion. Also you should know that the humidifier isn't just for reducing wetting time of the reed but in fact keeps them in a more stable environment to prevent warping or general changes to them due to the weather.

Hope this helps!

I personally use this reed case.
https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Multi-Instrument-Humidity-Clarinets-Saxophones/dp/B001SN7VGO
And inside the reed case there is a spot for a moisturizer pack 72%.
http://www.bovedainc.com/store/music/reeds/

I never have any problems with my reed after switching to this. You should try it out!

I love Snark tuners. They're awesome and cheap

http://www.amazon.com/Snark-13-JQCT-G3R2-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1369762112&sr=1-1&keywords=snark+tuner

http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE

Pick Punch is not too expensive, and should be appreciated, if only for its novelty.

Here is Zack Rosenthal from Shar giving a demonstration of different performance and practice mutes. I have an Artino rubber coated metal mute and just a plain metal mute (one for each violin). I like them both. The Artino mute seems to have the least effect on the tone than the metal one. It is best to go without a practice mute, but sometimes they are just necessary. Especially if one lives in a thin walled apartment building like I do.

FOr plain strings, it's not a problem to replace one. However, when you get to the wound strings - new strings are so much brighter replacing one creates a really obvious tonal imbalance.

You should get yourself a string winder - a model with bridge pin puller and string clipper built in. That covers most of what you need to change strings in one tool.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=asc_df_B0002E1G5C/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292964781544&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9268416846519880433&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002249&hvtargid=pla-343873428460&psc=1

The only thing you really need in the beginning is a practice pad like that one, this book and a pair of sticks.

If you can bear practicing like this without giving up because of the boredom that is learning the fundamentals, a second-hand e-drum kit is an inexpensive and space-saving way of getting into playing on a whole set. It also means you won't annoy your neighbors too much.

That really depends. Personally I'd say that you'll never become interested in drumming unless you can get on an actual set, but I totally understand not wanting to spend 500+ on something you might dislike. Drumming on a pad is not a bad idea to get rhythms down and such, but it doesn't really translate to an actual set. Instead, or in addition to a pad, you should try to find someone who has a set of their own. If you don't know anyone personally, you may want to make some friends at a local music store (Guitar Center is always a solid go-to) and see if they can show you some basics, either in-store or at home.

Also, note that a lot of drum places, Guitar Center included, allow you to play whatever sets they're displaying. Don't be afraid to sit down and try em out.

Its also definitely worth looking for a cheap hand-me-down set on Craigslist or eBay or something. I got mine for just over 200 and have slowly been upgrading it ever since until I had a fully fleshed out set. Plus, if you do make a purchase and you end up not liking it, chances are someone else will take it.

Other than that, I don't know what to tell you other than welcome to drummer-hood. Oh and also, if you do get a drum pad, I'd suggest this one. I've had it for over 3 years and I love it.

Just buy a OneSpot if you are new to this.

For just a few pedals you can start with a non-isolated daisy chain power supply like the 1spot. Do yourself a favor and skip the DS-1.

The three pedals you mentioned all use the standard boss-style power jack at 9v.

Once you get more than that, you're mixing a lot of analog and digital pedals and pedals with different voltages, current draws, and power inputs, and most importantly if you're playing live, it will be a good idea to get an isolated power supply. Sending a lot of ground loop hum to FOH is annoying and unprofessional.

I have a tuner that attaches to my guitar, what I did was bend the string until it changes notes on the tuner. Then I repeated that same feeling over and over again until I got the muscle memory down.
Tuner in question.

Just some very unique shaped clip on tuners. Snark makes some similar ones.

This seems like a gimmick to me, and a waste of money. If you want to give your musician friend a practical, cheap gift I recommend these.

It's 11 bucks shipped and it works better than any tuner I've ever used. I mean just check out the reviews. I have a large collection of stringed instruments and this thing works on virtually anything I clip it too. I've even started tuning drums with it.

I agree

I have a Cajon Bag which is clutch, especially in instances where I've needed to go somewhere and the weather has been less than favorable. My major complaint is that the straps aren't long enough to do an over the shoulder. Also, at $24, it's kind of a premium offering.

However, the king of open storage is the FRAKTA from Ikea. at $1.29, it's both incredibly durable, long handles, and a gigantic bag. Not great for longer hauls, but it does the job admirably. If you want one with backpack straps, it also exists and zips. Arguably the issue here is that they are TOO big - and trying to carry that many games is going to be too heavy regardless.

I like the heavy metal mute

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Practice-Mute-Violin-Viola/dp/B00CICR3H

​

and the rubber-covere heavy metal mute
https://www.amazon.com/Otto-Musica-Artino-Practice-violin/dp/B006GCNUH

Here's something that'll be a great stocking stuffer that most people don't know about: Guitar strings that are the same colors as those in the game. They work great: https://www.amazon.com/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8

Drum bags (i.e., bags for musicians to carry pieces of drum sets) also work

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRMHGQ4/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_boD7Z_g267_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=AK6T270JRD43A6C06E81&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=13861fbf-c6a3-5b3d-9c74-338175eb6408&pf_rd_i=11966841

There are all shapes and sizes too, and they often have backpack straps. The one linked above is only 22 bucks.

I went with this one. Lots of favorable reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I was using 2 One Spots and just wasn't happy with it. This takes care of most of my board and I have a One Spot powering 4 pedals. Love that this has an 18 Volt option.

My Philospher's Tone was really noisy when engaged with the original plug. It's much quieter plugged into this thing. I'm surprised, but thrilled with the results.

AmazonBasics Guitar Folding A-Frame Stand for Acoustic and Electric Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZH2Cb50D8T8T


Fits the mini and longboard well on smallest setting.

this is mine ... I'll give it a solid Mehh. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018FCZKR2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another mute option, metal but with rubber coating...Here: https://www.amazon.ca/Artino-Practice-Violin-Viola-japan/dp/B006GCNUHQ

(Wilder & Davis doesn't carry it; I ordered mine from Shar eg:http://www.sharmusic.com/

I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GCNUHQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works perfectly fine in the sense that it mutes the sound almost by half? Imagine playing an electric guitar that is not connected to the amplifier. However, the mute itself does not "fit" perfectly, out of the 4 legs, only 2 fits in? It still works though - and it is rather heavy. My only problem is that I'm new to the violin (4 months in) and I still have to see my bow on the strings to make sure its in the right lane. This prevents that, visually (unless you practice in front of a mirror, I guess). It's inexpensive so you have nothing to lose, really..

I use a metal practice mute, but with a rubber outer layer to prevent damage.

TC Electronic Ditto Looper - $91.70

One footswitch, one knob, that's it. Stupidly easy to use once you figure out how to tap your foot in time.

Welcome to the American Professional fam, fam!

Here is a clip of mine. That's solo'd over a simple Ditto looper pedal. I do not claim to be worth a damn, just ... Strats, man!

Second the ditto. It's very minimal and is true bypass. It's great for practicing a home but is totally something you could play out with. Plus it's only $100.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZUAORE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-ixfvb0NXYKER

https://www.amazon.com/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8

https://amzn.to/30oA5Xh I've heard the colour wears off pretty quickly

That's a fantastic idea! A lot of people like this bag. It isn't terribly expensive and pretty sturdy.

http://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-BP-Backpack-Shoulder/dp/B00HV7UOM4
http://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-S-Padded-Shoulder-Standard/dp/B00IRMEZTK

Someone mentioned these cajon bags in SUSD's comments when they mentioned the board game canopy. I might shell out for one of these to replace my duffel bag.

As was recommended to me, I will point you to the ChromaCast Padded Cajon Bag. It is originally designed to hold a particular type of Peruvian drum. But works amazing for board games. Only downside I personally had is that now my Amazon "would you also like to buy" suggestions are littered with tambourines and castanets. But I can live with that.

Some pics from other users last time this question was posted. http://imgur.com/a/bk39t https://imgur.com/a/eYNsF http://i.imgur.com/BRxBn7q.jpg

This Chromacast Bag is really popular with my local gameboard folks. I just picked one up, though I havent had a chance to use it yet. Looks nearly identical.

This is what we use and it's amazing. It's probably what is meant when people say Cajon Drum Bag.

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-L-Padded-Handle-Shoulder/dp/B00IRMHGQ4

I have the nylon cases you linked for xwing. (Two. One for the giant rebel ships. One for the giant Imperial ships.)

I also have the cardboard boxed versions for Armada. 2x Wave 1 boxes and 1x Wave 2 box. The cardboard boxes are a better value if you have a large duffle or other way to carry them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YUC43MK/

I use these bags to carry 3 of the feldherr boxes and 2 small card binders. These bags also work fantastic for board games.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRMHGQ4/


Other notes...

The foam and the MAXI bags were much softer than I expected the cardboard boxes actually seem to be more protection.

But the MAXI bags do look fantastic.

I think it's this one- I bought it in anticipation of getting my board soon. So while I can't say how it holds up with a BB on it, it definitely seems pretty sturdy and like it will do a great job.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LBKFYUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478089479&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=top+stage+pro+universal+guitar+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41ri7%2BXS7LL&ref=plSrch

I don’t have experience with the more expensive brand true isolated power supplies from brands like Voodoo Labs, T.Rex, Etc. But a lot of the people I’ve talk to and jammed with do and they seem to work just fine.

Strymon, TrueTone, MXR, and Walrus Audio also make them.

I have an inexpensive Donner DP-1 which isn’t truly isolated but it’s stable, cost effective and noise free in my setup. It’s also generally well reviewed.

It’s got seven 9v 100ma outs, a 12v out, and an 18v out all at 100ma, and one 9v 500ma out. And I’ve been using it with a few different analog pedals for about a year I think.

Is there anything you need specifically that you can’t find?

it already exist
Good option here

https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/fire-security-cables/power-supplies/product-90w2-19112.php

others

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Supply-Channel-12Amps-output/dp/B00A2WJTHG

https://www.securitycameraking.com/16-channel-rack-mount-12v-59105-prd1.html

https://www.altronix.com/products/R1224DC16CB
https://www.amazon.com/Jim-Dunlop-11403000001-MC403-System/dp/B003KIL2L0

or potentially cheaper, get a music pedal power supply and print out rack ears for it
https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO

You have to be very careful with this route as guitar pedals use reverse polirity for their power. Rewiring the cables is a must.

$12 from amazon! https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Folding-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B018FCZKR2

You're right, the instrument does not factor in as much as one's interest. Totally right.

Of the packages listed, the first Yamaha one for $159 looks very nice. You'd definitely get more than your money out of it. Yamaha has a great rep. for longevity.

I own this Rogue for $79 and love it to death. I taught Grade 6 and students were allowed to play whenever they wanted - it never got any rest from students or teachers.
I'd get this Snark tuner, this guitar strap, these strings, this string winder, and finally this stand. Oh, and these thin picks.

That gives you a grand total of $119.24. I've either owned or used all of these products and can vouch for them.

Now, the other thing I'm thinking of... there's this instructional book on Google Books, where you get the first 64 pages for free. It's a great resource, but the name escapes me. If I think of it, I'll write back. I hope this helps.

I have this one and while it's a little awkward, I've never had any problems with wear yet. It cuts all the gauges I use easily.

I wouldn't say a string winder is a game changer, but it's definitely nice to have, and the cutter is better than using a Leatherman multi tool (which was my previous string cutter). If you have a traditional acoustic with the bridge pins I bet it helps a lot with that too. It's super cheap though, so it's hard to justify not having it.

Planet Waves Pro Winder String Winder and Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_B8uOwb4DF4Y3A

Just to piggyback off this, Planet Waves makes a nice little combo tool that includes a string winder, string cutter, and bridge pin puller. It's pretty cheap, and I use it all the time! Here's a link.

There is a tool that you can pick up (usually for under $10 U.S.) that can make the job much easier. Here's one example: https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506764045&sr=8-3&keywords=String+winder

Many other manufacturers make them as well, and any guitar shop will have plenty. This handy little tool will help you pull the bridge pins, wind the strings (it's more tedious than you might expect if you have geared tuners), and cut the excess string. If your daughter sticks with her ukulele for any length of time, these things are just short of an absolute necessity.

This is more of a stocking stuffer but one of these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002E1G5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417904591&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I love mine. It has a winder, clipper and an acoustic pin puller. Kind of a Swiss Army knife of string winders.

Planet Waves pro winder. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002E1G5C

I use these for wall mounting, the work pretty well:

http://www.amazon.com/String-Swing-CC01K-Hardwood-Studio/dp/B0002GLCRC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1372438077&sr=1-1

Yeah, maybe get a few of these

And get that White Falcon on display!

Fender Locking Tuners. I believe they are Schaller, but made in Taiwan. Fender has some sort of arrangement with Schaller so they can make Schaller locking tuners and strap locks in Asia. The locking tuners for instance are made in Taiwan and they are amazing quality.

Wondering if anyone has any experience with this: I'm looking into getting locking tuners for my MiM Telecaster and Strat. I found these: Fender Locking Tuners Chrome https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uwnpyb12ZVPH8

Fender Model#: 099-0818-100 it says "fits most MiM models" Most? How much variance is there? I don't want to shell out $100 per guitar and have them not fit. I mean a tuner is a tuner right? It's just where the holes are drilled. Such an odd wording, and yet it throws me.

I'm not seeing an amp in that picture, just an acoustic guitar. Any way, if you want to use your amp's distortion then put your time based effects and modulation pedals in the effects loop. All dirt pedals should go to the front of your amp regardless. If you are only going to use pedals for distortion then you could run everything straight into the amp. Try both combinations and see which one you like best.

Building your own pedalboard is a great way to save money. Lots of us do it here and if done right will be as sturdy and functional as any board you can buy off the shelf. It may be worth getting the cheaper One Spot power supply and daisy chaining your pedals until you outgrow it. That OneSpot Pro is a great, affordable power supply but might be overkill if you start out with only a few pedals. Once you have bought everything on your list you need to assess what the current draw is for each pedal and then determine what size power supply will cover your needs.

A) Put stickers or labels on the adapters telling you which pedal they belong to.


B) If possible, use a power supply which powers all of your pedals at once so you don't have to bring unique adapters for each one.

Hey to help lighten the budget load you can get a more affordable power supply. Since he only seems to be playing at home a Truetone 1 Spot Combo Pack will surely be enough to make due until his next major upgrade. It's only $30.

Also take note that some Pedalboards have their own on-board power supply as well. Example

A one spot with the 8 pedal attachment is like $25.

Top to Bottom, Left to Right:

• Pedalboard ( Markbass Compressore -> HX Stomp )
  
• Keeley Hooke Reverb Pedal
  
• L.R. Baggs Para DI
  
• Yorkville iPad Mount
  
• Xvive U2 Wireless Patch Cable
  
• Behringer P2 Headphone Amp
  
• Meinl Luis Conte Shaker
  
• Donner Page Turner
  
• 10ft Planet Waves Patch Cable
  
• Apple Headphone Adapter
  
• Westone AM Pro 20 In-Ear Monitors
  
• 2 Thalia Capos - One for Each Guitar
  
• Altoids Tin Full of Guitar Picks
  
• 3 Fretpads for my Capos
  
• Klein Tools Electrician's Pocket Knife
  
• Vitorinox Camper Knife
  
• 4" Patch Cable
  
• Shubb Capo
  
• 1/4" to 1/8" Adaptor
  
• Swiss Tech 19-in-1 Multi-Tool
  
• So Many Pens
  
• Sharpie
  
• Straight Coupler Connector
  
• Alcatel promotional Flash Drive
  
• Comb
  
• Ikea Size 10 Wrench
  
• Guitar Triller
  
• Aluminum Kazoo
  
• Apple 12w Power Adaptor
  
• Charger Cable for Xvive U2
  
• Cellet Retractable Mini USB Cable for Donner Pager Turner
  
• Energizer 9v Battery
  
• Native Union Universal Charging Cable
  
• Gorilla Rugged Flash Drive
  
• Old Familiar Mustache Comb
  
• Apple 1m Charging Cable
  
• Cherry Fisherman's Friends
  
• Gaviscon Tablets
  
• Stickers for my Band
  
• Truetone 1 Spot 9V Power Supply
  
• Markbass 12v Power Supply
  
• HX Stomp Power Supply

Using a jack that's the wrong physical size won't burn out your components.

Here are some issues that will burn out components:

Using an ac adapter in which the output voltage is too high

Using an ac adapter that puts out the wrong kind of power (ac if you need dc or vice versa)

Using an ac adapter that has the wrong polarity

Using an ac adapter that doesn't provide enough amperage

I just googled the manual. It took 2 seconds. In the specifications, it lists dc 9v. Your drawing shows a center negative power supply.

Every Casio I've used has had a 2.1mm power jack. Yours might not. I don't know.

Your Behringer power supply is 300mA. This is too low.

Based on the manual your power consumption is 9W @ 9vdc. This equals 1A (= 1000mA). Your power supply needs to be 1000mA MINIMUM. Best practice is to get one higher, 1200mA or more. You should not go higher on voltage. Higher on amperage is fine and recommended.

Ok, well, if you're in the US, get this: http://www.amazon.com/Visual-Sound-Spot-Combo-Pack/dp/B000RNB720/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449267799&sr=8-1&keywords=Onespot

It fits all of your specs and you can power a pedal or 2 from it if you so desire. If you're somewhere else you gotta find your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-1-Spot-Combo-Pack/dp/B000RNB720/

I've got this guy powering my pedalboard - it's about as cheap as they get. I've got it powering the following chain: Zvex Fuzz Factory > PolyTune > MI Audio Crunch Box > DigiTech DigiTech Bad Monkey Overdrive > Danelectro Transparent Overdrive V2 > ISP Decimator (used for microphonic feedback on my hollowbody). No complaints, and no noise issues to speak of.

D'Addario Multi-Instrument Reed Storage Case with Humidity Control Pack for all Clarinets and Saxophones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SN7VGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t.wIybP5KTK9C

This is the reed case I have. It's fits 8 reeds of all sizes. It fits Bari Sax and Bass Clarinet reeds very well. I have never put a contra reed into my case but I figure it's not too much different from either Bari or Bass.

Hope this helps :)

Personally, I like Rico Royals and D Addario Jazz Select, but I'm on a budget so I use them for classical AND jazz/other. You might want to try a Vandoren Sample Pack or a D Addario Reserve sample pack.

Edit: Also I would recommend investing in a good reed case if you haven't already. I personally like this one but you could also look at ones that are a bit nicer.

I think it's these, unless they've changed them out over the last few years. They look the same to me though.

I believe sips uses one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2 sorry :/ for ps3 turtle beach are good brand or save some money and get a razer set

You bought a BPHS1 that is meant for PAs. Likely this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-BPHS1XF4-BPHS1-XF4-Communications-Headset/dp/B0089044PA/

They sell a version with a standard 3 din XLR plug for the mic and a 1/4" TRS stereo plug for the headphone. This one:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-BPHS1-Broadcast-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2/

If you can't exchange them, you can buy this $37 cable and swap it in:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-BPCB1-Replacement-Broadcast-Headset/dp/B0046W3HC6/

Then you just need a 1/4" TRS-F to 3.5mm TRS-M adapter to connect the headphone jack to the headphones. I prefer these to reduce strain but it's personal preference.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/

Can you exchange the BPHS1?

!

OK, I'm not sure what you're going on about but I'll take a shot, it seems like you're dealing with something like this -

Soooo, lets assume you're not using the x32 digital snake head and just running everything through the back of the mixer.

And also assuming you're not using an a/v DI box and just running the computer audio out of the 1/8 in computer with an rca/1/8 cable.

You mic outputs (xlr) can go into input 1+2.

If I remember correctly, the rca inputs are on the back of the board and something like 'aux in 5-6'

So now you have 4 inputs (mic 1, mic 2, computer Left, computer right)

Assuming you are just using main left and right outputs and one "mix bus" to go to both headphones (and to keep it simple, have that mix bus for the headphones in mono and not stereo)...then, on the back of the mixer your left and right mains could come out of "Out 1" and "Out 2" and your mix bus out of "Out 3"

So now, you have things wired, but how to patch and send the audio to where you want it?

The next part deals with what you need to know to do what you want to.

On your mixer, to the left of your faders, there are a couple of buttons that light up, each below the other. They say something like "ch 1-16" and the next one says "ch17-32" and the next one says "aux in/usb/fx returns"

there are another set of buttons on the other side of this bank of 16 faders and those say something like "group DCA 1-8" and "bus 1-6" and "bus 9-16" Above this group of buttons you'll see another one that says "sends on faders" when you push this one, it flashes red (I think) or is just red.


Also on the mixer, to the right of the LED screen, there are a few buttons that say things like "meters" and "Utilities" and "routing" and "home", etc.

In the same area are 2 buttons with arrows pointing left/right and another 2 pointing up/down

Lastly, on the far, upper right there's and XLR input for a talkback mic and a 4 pin output for "lamp". In that little section there's a button for "talk A" and "talk B' and one that says "view"

OK, now you are sort of familiar with the board and what you need to know.

So, first off the routing. The mixer doesn't know yet that you want output one and two to be your mains or that you want output 3 to be your headphone mix (I'll call this your 'monitor' mix) so you have to tell it.

Hit the button that says "routing" to the right of the led screen. I don't recall exactly what the menu looks like, but you will need to use the left/right and up/down buttons to find the right page to assign outputs. You will know you are on the right page when you see options to assign "output one" and next to it on the led screen a chart listing "main L/C, Mix 1, mix 2, etc"

You will have to use the little rotary wheels to select your outputs, so output one first, and then the other select the Mix left option, and (I think) by pushing in the little rotary wheel buttons you select this option. Then, output 2, mix R, select. Then output 3, mix 1, select.

Also, if you're not getting any audio inputs, your board might be set up to recieve it's inputs via the digital snake head and not via the xlr inputs on the back of the board. So you will want to check this and make sure your inputs 1-8 are coming via "Local" and not "AES'

So now your board is set up to send audio where you want it, now you need to assign the talkback. You don't need and external mic, the board has a built in mic. Find the 'view' button in the talkback section and select it. You will see options for talkback "A" and "B".

Use the rotary wheels or arrow keys in the LED section to select it where your talkback (a or b, it doesn't matter) is sending signal to mix 1 and NOT to main L/R

Also you will want to select whether the talkback is latch or not. Latch means, when you want to use talkback, you hold down the talkback (a or b) button and talk, and when you let go of the button it stops sending. If it's not on latch, then when you press the button it will send audio until you press the button again.

With me so far?

Ok, now lets get your audio working.



shit. I've gotta go. check the manual for further help if i can;t get back to this

If they're using the same ones as they were last year ( which I think they are, they look the same ) they'll be the BPHS1 Audio Technica headsets.

Get a Snark, they're small, back lit, and cheap as hell.

https://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8

Snark makes a good clip on tuner. We use these at a few band programs where I teach.

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

If your acoustic doesn't have a 1/4" output, then something like the Snark Clip-on Tuner works well most of the time.

I agree. You can never really have too many packs of strings. If he doesn't have a Snark tuner yeat, I highly recommend them.

Bruh.

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE

I prefer the rubberized foam guitar hangers. 1/3rd the price. I've got two of these and they work great.

Guitar Hanger Hook Holder Wall Mount Display - Fits all size Guitars, Bass, Mandolin, Banjo, etc. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005CX4GLE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_.asxwbAGB15DF

Just use beefy drywall anchors. You just screw them into the drywall and then screw the screw into it, super simply to use and you can get ones rated to 75lbs just to be super safe.

I used these hangers and they work perfectly well.

If you're mounting your headphones on a wall I can't think of a more practical solution than this. The issue with most of the headphones stands that I see is that they will put uneven and unnecessary pressure on the headband either disfiguring it or weakening it over time. These will do neither as the weight is balanced over two softened/rounded points.

How about this? $3.59

> cut a plec out of your credit card and use that.

Pick Punch

https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-Original-PROCESS-PRIORITY/dp/B005FIFM14

Do it yourself

The guitar pick maker seems to be a hit this year. Maybe some sort of cooking gadget for infusing herbs and spices? Or a cool cookbook geared towards whatever their favorite food is?

Pick Puncher, just ask for a membership card at your local grocery store / pharmacy when you need more plastic

I'm afraid of those metal ones because they are REALLY REALLY heavy. If you drop it on your violin you're basically screwed.
I currently use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Artino-Practice-Mute-Violin-Viola/dp/B006GCNUHQ
It isn't quite as effective, but it feels less risky to use it.

Definitely a tuner, and some spare strings, nothing worse than when one breaks and you can't play for a few days! I think these are the strings you probably want:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DAddario-EXL110-3D-Regular-010--046-Electric/dp/B000EEJ91I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473760707&sr=8-1&keywords=d%27addario+10-46

A metronome would be good too, although you can just get an app for that on your phone...

A stand for the guitar would be good, too.

Oh, and a string-winder and string cutter:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Planet-Waves-Pro-Winder-String-Winder/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1473761366&sr=1-1&keywords=string+winder

I'm not sure the plectrum holder on your wishlist will work on the guitar you've chosen... I think it will only work on acoustic guitars, because it hooks onto the strings at the headstock, which are spaced differently on electrics.

Also, definitely don't get that Behringer PB1000. That's just the board for you to put pedals on, and doesn't have anything on it itself. The amp you're looking at already has some effects on it, so it's probably best to not bother about any more effects for the time being!

Happy Birthday ! My favorite birthday was when I was 17(3 years ago) A couple of friends and I ditched school and went to eat and then to the park just hung out for a few hours that day :) this would make changing my guitar strings so much easier :D

[Easiest way to remove the pins on an acoustic and restring it without damaging your guitar or pins and its only $7 ] (http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1414380490&sr=1-1&keywords=guitar+string+winde)

Regarding #2:

What I've been doing for the quarter of a century I've been playing (god knows I should MUCH better than I am) is pulling the string and creating a bend about 1" past the tuning peg.

Once I put the string in the hole, I use my right hand index finger to hold the string down and use a string winder to get the first full wrap around the peg and then I pull it taut and guide the additional wraps under the initial one. I generally get 2-3 wraps for the low E through G string, and a handful more for the B and high E string.

For my Strat, I bought the Fender locking tuners and they were SUPER easy to replace. For my teles, one came with the vintage style tuners and I installed them on the other. I use the above methods when restringing my Les Paul or PRS.

The string winder I linked makes things SO much easier and I've yet to have it mess up on me. Plus, having the built in string cutter is nice.

Snarks are awesome.

These string winders are awesome.

Couch makes really good guitar straps.

Please get a winder that can cut your strings too, you probably will save 30 minutes each time you restring.


Like this one:


https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=zg_bs_486419011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NGEJQ5ZMA5KDMGHPMJYY

this is a good guide: http://guitar.about.com/od/beginners/ss/acoustic_string.htm#step1

i use the planet waves string winder and cutter: http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452989852&sr=8-1&keywords=string+winder

it has a bridge pin puller, so its easy to pull out the bridge pins. pliers scratch the fuck out of them

If you only have one guitar and restring it once a year, no. That said, they are so cheap that even then, I would have one. I think I own about 5 by now, though I don't have one of the powered ones yet.

I love my string winders and would never be without one.

Cheap one

Mid-priced

Fancy with cutter (but kind of unwieldy)

Drill attachment

Power winder

There are cheaper ones than I listed and more expensive ones. But this is a decent representation.

Get one of these.

Although this video is mainly for acoustic guitars, I found it very helpful when learning to change strings. I'd also recommend you get a string cutter/winder like this one and multiple guitar string packs, since there is a good chance you'll wind up with a string that snaps 10 minutes after you put it on. Personally, I prefer D'addario strings with a gauge of 10-46, but keep in mind that changing string gauge may require some adjustments to certain components of the guitar.

i agree with /u/cursethedarkness/ so i have a few suggestions for ideas

also, go vertical for your guitar

You will get a more room in your wardrobe once you fold things properly. Keep all your grooming products in small basket

Keep all your paper organizer, again go vertical.

your wallet, glasses, keys, bags and jacket should go on one of this by the BD door. (i used to take them with me to my room and lose them all the time)

Whats bothering you about the wire basket? it looks like a lot bulky items not properly arranged and small boxes/packaging. If you would get other areas organized im pretty sure you wouldnt need to have that in the room.

Also, can you stack the bookcases? it would save you much more room.

Question, do you have any love for dvd, cds and old games? would you miss them if gone? we live in a digital age so there is that to think about. If you really want to keep them consider moving them to above the wardrobe maybe, if they are not regularly used there is no need for them to be in such an accessible place.

EDIT: crap, i just read you are bone-broke, sorry ... well, even old boxes are good for organizing and avoiding the floor raising clutter piles.

I use a guitar wall hanger and love it!

https://www.amazon.com/String-Swing-CC01KOAK-Hardwood-Studio/dp/B0002GLCRC/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments

I would hang that stringed instrument on the wall and pick up some simple frames for your posters. Perhaps also pick up some book ends and de-clutter your books and stuff over the desk.

Did you mount the TV yourself? The fact that there aren't a bunch of cords visible is a nice touch for a college kid.

I think /u/calunderscoretissue is refering to practice pads.

Purchase "Stick Control: For the Snare Drummer" to learn rudiments ($10 US) and a drum pad. One that has a bit of volume to it and a rim as well is by Remo 10" size: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Remo/Practice-Pad-442968.gc

I just picked up an Evans 12" pad since it is more silent:
Evans Realfeel 2-Sided Practice Pad, 12 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMDIXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G8zBDbK01796S

If you are a real beginner, then this remo pad is what you need. https://www.amazon.com/Remo-RT-0008-00-Practice-Ambassador-Drumhead/dp/B0002E56H6

it will give you the best idea of how drums rebound and respond to the stick at your level, and its super cheap. As you advance, you may want to invest in a rubber pad like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMDIXY/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_tr_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SH33RTP2XM0BMQYPPX8

Personally, i really dont think you need a fancy electronic pad, especially as a beginner, but even at higher levels i dont see any benefits that having good ears or a good teacher dont privide. i think theyre just a waste of money, and especially if you are going to be playing latin music, not helpful. The only time i can see them being helpful is in training drumlines, but idk. Id love to hear other peoplea opinions on them!

Get yourself a good practice pad!

My Personal Favorite: Aquarian Tru Bounce

Another Option

And start practicing RUDIMENTS.

This site will show you the sheet music, as well as a video and audio sample so you know what to play. These rudiments are your basic drumming vocabulary - everything we play as drummer's uses rhythms and techniques that can be developed through practicing these. With a pad, you'll learn to develop control over the stick, which is the hardest part of getting started.

When you have the chance to get on a kit, it'll make the transition easier!

I was thinking of this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMDIXY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Strat all the way for the Chili Peppers.

I'd recommend Squier Classic Vibe since they come with proper AlNiCo Pickups, so it'll sound great, and the main problems are the input jack and gloss neck. The neck is completely subjective, so you might actually dig that, and a new input jack is like $15 max, and it's about as easy as it can get when it comes to soldering. Even if you pay someone to do it for you, you'll still save money over what you would pay for a MIM Strat.

The one that looks the most like John's main Strat is the '60s Classic Vibe

If you have the $600, I'd say put locking tuners on to make string changes eaiser, a new nut for tuning stability and tone on open strings, and a good input jack since Squier's are notorious for their loose input jacks.

Typically, they'll be sold in sets of 6, but some vendors, like stewmac or warmoth do sell them individually. I would just replace the whole set and take the opportunity to upgrade to locking tuners, if I were you. I'm a big fan of this Fender staggered set.

Your main concern will be the ferrule diameter. You want it to match the holes in your headstock, or at least not be bigger than the hole, or else you'll need to drill them bigger. Slightly smaller is not a major issue, particularly with the set I linked to, because of the dual stabilizing pins on the back that make the machine sit quite stable, but do require drilling holes for them on the back of the headstock. Most other tuners have a single stabilizing screw, which may or may not line up with the drilled holes on the back of your headstock. If the tuner(s) you end up with do not line up with the pre-drilled holes for the stabilizing screws, just pre-drill some new ones. Do not screw into your headstock without a pre-drilled hole.

I have a slightly newer version of that same guitar (same color and everything) that I bought brand new as my first electric almost 20 years ago. I still have it and really like it. I wouldn't be in a rush to change anything. Just set it up the way you want, play it, and then figure out what needs to be changed. MIM Strats are nice guitars just the way they came and I kind of wish I left mine mostly stock. I even wish I kept the stock pickups as I now think they sound good; I swapped them out for Lace Sensors about 15 years ago and I was never a big fan of them. I wish I kept the originals. I'll probably eventually pick up a set on ebay.

I did, however, just put Fender locking tuners on mine yesterday. I'm really glad I did it because it makes string changes so much quicker and easier. I didn't have to drill any holes and they fit just fine. However, that's not always the case with those. Take one of your tuners off and look on the back of the headstock. If you have 2 little guide holes, in addition to the hole the actual tuner goes through, you should be fine.

The other little thing I did to mine a few months ago is put on a set of Dunlop strap locks. I used the original screws instead of the ones that came with them. I really like these things and put them on my other guitars as well.

See this video regarding pole piece heights on strat pickups. Darrell Braun's channel has a lot of really good stuff on it including a lot of videos comparing pickups and busting some common myths.

I used the same ones I used with my Strats.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L6GD04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In this article he says his fav pedal is his "Golden Eagle"

Golden Eagle

So it looks like a Klon Clone. Basically a transparent overdrive. Nearly every pedal maker has a Klon Clone (based on the Klon Centaur Circuit).

Just randomly listening to some of his songs on spotify it sounds like he uses Compression, Overdrive, and may some slight Delay. I'd say that's a pretty good place to start. If you like that kind of music those pedals should work for a lot of it.

Some starter pedals I can recommend that'll do those things:

Compressor: Kokko Comp

Overdrive: EHX Soul Food

Delay: Mooer Ana Echo

Power Supply: One Spot

batteries (rechargable?) or two power supplies, yeah.

OR maybe one of these One-Spot power supplies...but you'd have all these extra connections. After that are VooDoo Labs Pedal Power type power supplies, with isolated outputs... a bit pricier.

I'd make sure you're running a 9v dc power supply, as thats what's standard on most pedals. They'll have them at your local music store, or just grab a truetone one spot on amazon. You can get this whole kit for $30 and be set for a while.

This Pig Hog one is a bit cheaper. It doesn't have some of the things you get with the truetone, but you probably wont need that stuff unless you're running vintage pedals, and if thats the case, you can get adapters for those for under $5.

Either option would work and you'd be set on power for a while.

​

It would. But just get this instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Visual-Sound-Spot-Combo-Pack/dp/B000RNB720/

better price here

i use this too. much cheaper than the alternatives

I agree, but it's not mine. I'm just trying to duplicate it from the image. from what I can see.. pegboard base, zip ties, and I'm guesing this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RNB720?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) would work for the PS, but how would I go about mounting that on the bottom?

"Moist sac" or "Moisac." It's from the humidity pack in this.

This happens to me when they are exposed to humidity fluctuations or heat from the sun. The little plastic things they come in aren’t very protective against it you could invest in a reed case. If anything put the reeds in a plastic bag to keep the humidity stable. I use this case with a plastic bag over it. D'Addario Woodwinds Woodwind Reeds Case (RVCASE04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SN7VGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tyYLDbHXN78CM

That's pretty much your problem. Ricos tend to warp easier than Vandorens in my experience, and without a case they are more easily exposed to humidity and temperature changes. I use this reed case and it works well for me. You can also buy little humidity control packs to insert into it.

https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Multi-Instrument-Humidity-Clarinets-Saxophones/dp/B001SN7VGO

I use a reed case with a humidifying pack in it. Our college professor suggested it. It helps to keep the reeds playing their best for longer, and the humidifier stops the reed from warping by drying it out.

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001SN7VGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468345279&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=reed+case&dpPl=1&dpID=51ESLNO149L&ref=plSrch

The Behringer you want is the UMC202HD. Do not buy any of the Behringer audio interfaces w/o a "HD" in the model name as they are the old-world interfaces that were replaced by the HD models.

The dynamic mic headset want is the Audio-Technica BPHS1 with Behringer UMC202HD interface (and possibly with Brainwavz sheepskin earpads). That's all the hardware you need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003D87JI2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE

Here's a video on why all streamers should be using a cardioid pattern dynamic mic w/ audio interface. It should be mandatory viewing for all new Twitch streamers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_pq8vcQElw

Software-wise, Voicemeeter Bananna is arguably all you need. If you want to do audio filters, the ReaPlugs VST FX Suite with FIR, compressor, and bass cut are all you really need or want (with FIR->compressor in that order for the filter chain). OBS Studio's built-in audio filters suck hard.

They are Audio Technica BPHS1s. I actually have the exact same headset, and Scar and Toph were fine with it. Gimr just needs to replace the ear cushions.

First, sorry for bad english.

I think you misunderstood the noise canceling feature, your headsets cancel noise from getting into your ears, not your microphone.

I live in a very busy avenue in my country, and i have a similar problem. Mic was picking up cars and stuff from the street. Your best chance to avoid this noise is getting the mic closer to your mouth, reduce the volume (or sensitivity from your mic) and speak louder. thats why i prefer headsets instead of regular desktop (or tripode) mics.

if reducing the volume and getting the mic closer doesnt work, you probably need a better mic.

After searching for a long time i find the best price-value "noise cancelling" mic is the audio Technica BPHS1. But it isnt usb (it is xlr) and you need a audio USB interface to use it in your pc. This headset is designed to use in sport breadcast, in very loud enviroments.

Link to the headset:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412137022&sr=8-1&keywords=bphs1

Description:
Created especially for on-air news and sports broadcasting, announcing & interviews, this rugged stereo headset offers natural, highly intelligible and focused vocal reproduction, closed-back circumaural (around-the-ear) ear cups to seal out background noise, and a high-output dynamic microphone mounted on a flexible gooseneck boom. The headset's microphone has a cardioid polar pattern tailored for pickup of speech with maximum voice intelligibility over a wide range of frequencies. It is more sensitive to sound originating directly in front of the element, making it useful in reducing pickup of unwanted sounds. The flexible gooseneck boom swivels for easy positioning on either the right or left side.

Link to the audio interface I use:
http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B00154KSA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412137064&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+box+usb

After switching to this headset i cant hear almost any unwanted noise. I even apologise for a loud truck of something but people cant hear anything :).

But be carefoul, the speakers arent that good as others gaming headsets, but i think it is the best solution for your problem.

Hope it helps! Sorry again for bad english, im still learning a lot of stuff and my keyboard doesnt helps :c.

You can get an Audio Technica BPHS-1 Headset for $200 each. Or you can try a bunch of handheld vocal dynamic microphones. They range in price from the Behringer XM8500 for $20 to the Senheiser e935 for $169. What's your budget and how many do you need?

Also, have you tried Auphonic or Levelator?

Go down your local pawn shop and get an inexpensive (not cheap) acoustic guitar. Bring someone who knows something so you can avoid the garbage that's out there. I bought my first acoustic that way for $70 and still have it. Head on over to the guitar reddit, there are tons of resources available for free. Get a stand and a decent tuner. Keep the guitar/stand in the room you spend the most time in, then it's easily accessible, you can pick it up anytime, if just for a few minutes. Tune it up every time before you play. For a hundred bucks, give or take, and some stick-with-it-ness, you can have a lifetime of enjoyment.
Here's a decent, cheap tuner.
http://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318088803&sr=8-1

Snark: http://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8

It's fast and accurate. It's all I ever use now. Tried 2 different Boss and a Korg.

get a snark. cheap and tiny but they work fine for just playing at home. then you don't even have to worry about being plugged in.

In the videos I've seen that show it, it looks much much more precise. I use one of these bad boys. They are waaaay better than the 2011 RS tuner and you can just always leave it on. Hopefully that won't be necessary in the new game.

I use a snark tuner. Love this thing to death. Works on everything, guitar, bass, drums, trumpets... No reason to put another pedal in your chain if you don't need it.

Snark: http://www.amazon.com/Snark-Instrument-Clip--Chromatic-Tuner/dp/B003VWKPHC/

You probably won't need a compressor, as the pf500 has one built in for ya. :)

Pedals are completely up to you depending once again on your music. I played with no pedals at all for years. But I do have a few OD's/Fuzz, Bass Chorus, Bass Wah and some others that I like to funk around with from time to time.

clip on vibration tuner FTW. they are about $10. GCEA, from the 4th (closest to you) string to the 1st (closest to the ground).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VWKPHC/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004Z17008&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0AGNJBKJY52KPA291JHR

I got this yesterday.
Meinl Percussion MSTCJB Padded Standard Cajon Bag with Carrying Grip, Fits Most Common Cajons (VIDEO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RPH2Ab0FCDAQS

https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-Bag-Standard-Size-Heavy-MSTCJB/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meinl+cajon+bag&qid=1562941436&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

These are way better than the chromacast ones.

Though there's no "backpack straps," the handle and bag is lot sturdier. I've carried Gloomhaven and a few other games in this bag with no issues. Also I prefer that it's wide-opening rather than tall; this way I don't have to stack the games.

I have the chromacast and I kinda hate the shoulder straps. They are way too thin, the body and the actual bag are holding up well so far. I ordered this one last night which I like the more traditional carrying handles

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GH8QTA/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483678543&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Visit The Juilliard School located in the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts for me! I've always wanted to go there. Link

For my wands I use these guitar hangers:

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE

I just keep the HMD on a shelf.

My total is $18.27!

$12.99 for this rechargeable flash light

$3.99 for this guitar stand

And 1.29 for this Rooney mp3!!!!

My head nearly exploded when I realized this combo did it after a bazillion insane combos.

Edit: the light is prime eligible and the stand is free shipping. Also, I made it a little more readable since I was so excited to post.

These are really great and minimal if you can put a couple holes in your walls.

If you dont want black strips on you wall because of the penny board you can use this http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427819804&sr=8-1&keywords=guitar+holder. Its really cool and not that expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CX4GLE/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/176-4334012-4367563?pi=SL500_SS115

I have these around my place for the various instruments.

• Wall-Mount your Guitar - It will not only free up floor space, but it will also act as a focal point / art piece, incorporating your love of music into the design of the room. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX4GLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the hook I use for my guitar, only $5 on Amazon.
  
• Store the L-Shaped Straightedge Above Your Desk - Install a peg board and hang it there like [this] (https://cdn.organized-home.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ikea-skadis-pegboard-tools.jpg).
  
• Store the Workout Ball Up High - Get your workout ball out of your way by storing it up near the ceiling. Something like [this] (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/cd/82/8d/cd828d8a03c95dbd4ca962d3737f3fa3.jpg).
  
• Decorate the Ledge - Add some picture frames, plants, or other decor to the ledge. You want to achieve lots of height variation. So put picture frames of varying heights like [this] (http://grindbase.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/how-to-decorate-a-bedroom-wall-ledge-bedroom-collection-how-to-decorate-a-big-empty-bedroom-wall.jpg), or plants that hang down like [this] (https://i.pinimg.com/736x/fe/fb/9b/fefb9b9e4731f20ca47ddf9d695500ec--plant-shelves-plant-ledge.jpg?b=t).

These (in the used section but they're still new :D) are under $5. One things I like about myself, especially recently, is that I refuse to let myself getting dragged down by things and keep pushing on throughout lifes ummm...turbulence..

My dad hates cards because he says its a waste of paper BUT he loves me and movies so we always get together and see a movie and hang out on Fathers Day, since I was old enough to see a movie without ruining it.

My dad loves music, mostly guitar, and I think this would be just PERFECT for him <3

for Father's Day!

I have a dish of hundreds 'cause of this.

I've been having to sand the edges when I get stretchy bits clinging to the side. But it only seems to happen with softer plastic and only recently (after lots of puncher abuse).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LO5HDb5YS5C02
You can just search "guitar pick punch" on amazon

Get a Pick Punch! It's like a paper hole punch but can make guitar picks out of old credit/gift cards. I got one for my husband years ago, before we even started caching, and it's all around awesome. It's just an added bonus that it makes for awesome, super cheap, and likeable SWAG that's actually useful for the finder.

Bought this for my brother who is into music and guitars one year

https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-Original-PROCESS-PRIORITY/dp/B005FIFM14

It's actually surprisingly good fun to use

My friend used to cut up milk cartons in the shape of picks, he thought the thickness was perfect. He got one of those guitar pick hole punchers and now has hundreds of picks.

1.) I bought this and I live in an apartment with very thin walls and floors. Speaking too loudly causes my downstairs neighbor to bitch, as does walking around for too long in a single session (pacing on the phone for example). I've been playing with this mute for about 2 weeks and I haven't heard a word from her. It doesn't fit my violin the way it does in the picture, but that doesn't seem to matter..

2.) I'm a new player, I started about 3 weeks ago and I can play 5 or so Suzuki book 1 songs decently. I practice from 20 minutes to an hour a day and focus on very particular problems each time. I'm 23 and rather pleased with my speed of learning the instrument.

3.) There's a lot of resources online, and being a beginner I might not be the best to advise but here's some things that have been working for me.

• When starting posture and good habits are key.
  
• Be very, very mindful of how your hand is holding the bow, follow online tutorials from (there are several youtubers, professorV, theonlinepianotutor, 1stfiddlerman are some).
  
• Play in front of a mirror or a webcam, make sure the bow is parallel to the bridge at all points during your bow stroke
  
• Some teachers say taping "frets" onto your violin help you learn the finger positions, again, many youtube videos on this topic.
  
  Last thoughts are: playing with a mute is sort of depressing. It barely sounds like a violin half the time, and you'll hear the bow friction on the string more than some notes which makes intonation sort of tricky but it's not insurmountable and it's good to find a place to play without it sometimes

I've also been playing violin for about 16 years. I stopped studying violin privately after I graduated high school, but played in orchestra through college while practicing a bit on my own. Just orchestra music and random practicing wasn't enough to keep up technique and I started deteriorating, especially in bowing technique. I found doing very slow bow practice and etudes (Kreutzer and Sevcik) on my own helped, but the most useful thing by far was to find a teacher again. I'm in grad school and have very little money and time to take lessons, but just going to my lesson twice a month, even if I've only practiced once or twice in between, has been really helpful and I've had noticeable improvement in the last year. As for practice mutes: I really like the one I have. It's metal coated in rubber and it mutes mine enough to play in my apartment late at night.

this is a good idea.

there are three (or four) styles of practice mute

rubber - works pretty well, easy and safe: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-USA-Rubber-Violin-practice/dp/B00ICK6D9C/

metal - even quieter, but balances more than it sticks, so you have to be careful that you don't let it fall off and scratch your instrument while using it: https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Violin-Practice-Silencer-Silver/dp/B01N0GKLZR/

hybrid - i don't have one, supposed to be good combination of the other options, but i heard they don't always fit right: https://www.amazon.com/Otto-Musica-Artino-Practice-violin/dp/B006GCNUHQ/

DIY- till you get one of the others: https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Wooden-Clothespins-Shirts-Sheets/dp/B01KGBP6I8/

The best violin brand to begin with is renting one from a local shop. Preferably one that specializes in string instruments only.

I don't know if that's reliable for your area, around big cities teachers tend to charge more. But if I'm getting the exchange rate right, it's the low end of an average rate.

Practicing with a practice mute rubber only mute or rubber covered metal mute and keeping it to more normal waking hours should be fine. The heavy mute makes it so you can hear, but dulls the sound so it doesn't travel as far. If you're in a big city sometimes libraries have rooms you can practice in too, I've also practiced at Churches in empty rooms (they knew I was there) and community college practice rooms (they didn't...)

Loop pedals are cool, you can use them to record a little bit of yourself and then play along to it.

I have this: https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Ditto-Looper-Effects/dp/B00AZUAORE/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1484912706&sr=1-5&keywords=ditto+loop

And it's awesome

I assume you mean the Berklee Press "A Modern Method for Guitar" (though I think the same book by William Leavitt is published also by Hal Leonard).

I was just recommending the Hal Leonard Complete Method because it's so much less daunting, but if you've got the chops for the Berklee book, go for it. It definitely jumps in hard with both feet and leans way more on harmony really early on. If you find yourself hitting the wall with it, you can always take a break and try the other one and jump back and forth as you progress.

I'll also recommend this playlist on Youtube that has several of the duets played with both parts. That way you can really enjoy playing the duets and learn both parts and then play them back with the other parts played on Youtube.

If you don't already have a looper, it's also likely a worthwhile investment not just for guitar, but also if you're using a keyboard. It's great to be able to play duets with yourself when there isn't a recording like above. Also, listening back to yourself lets you really pay attention to details and lets you notice how bad your time is so you can fix it.

It can also be great for jamming between the two instruments or used to help with practice of improv and other things.

An entry level, no-frills looper that seems really popular is the Ditto.

Dude, I don't know if you're gonna find anything decent under $50. Every time I've researched about loopers, always end up looking at the TC Electronics Ditto ($95)

DR Strings NMCE-10 DR NEON Electric Strings, Medium, Multi-Color

Great contest! :D

They are colour coded to the string colours in Rocksmith 2014 as I'm using that to learn how to play.

http://www.amazon.com/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8

If you have a guitar you don't mind having colorful strings on, these DR strings (http://www.amazon.com/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8) have the same color scheme as rocksmith.

I also invested in slightly heavier gauge, (medium) DR NEON Hi-Def MULTI-COLOR Medium · Electric Guitar Strings. They've really helped starting out, particularly since, after much umming and aahhing I decided to invert the strings in Rocksmith to better match with the tab I'm also teaching myself with. I also believe the medium gauge strings deliver a stronger signal to the pickups and hold their pitch better as I grapple and squeeze too hard at unfamiliar chords. Sure they might be slightly harder to bend but they're still featherweight compared to even the light strings I'm using to teaching myself elsewhere on my Gretsch Jim Dandy Acoustic. The Neon strings are a bit gaudy, must be said and I think, once I get around to changing them again they'll have served their purpose and I'll get some Elixirs perhaps.

There's always these.

I intended to purchase these for my first string change but after three weeks I don't hesitate on what color = what string. as /u/Aircommando12 said, it might be easier for me since i'm a wet-behind-the-ears newbie.

Looks like they are on sale on amazon for about 9 dollars a pack.

Perhaps look into a Chromecast bag. I've been looking at one for transportation of board games, but should be good for take out and smaller pizzas, they're built to transport guitar amps.

ChromaCast Cajon Carry Bag, Small https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IRMEZTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X1vYBbAPYENH4

@ProfessorSTAFF have you ever tried cajon carrying bags for carrying games, like this one that I have, and if so, how does it compare to the tote?

I use a Cajon bag like this one: Cheap and can carry 90% of most game box sizes. I can usually fit 7-10 games in the bag. Why ditch the boxes if you can carry everything.

I'm mostly a MTG player so camera bags have been suggested to hold my stuff. However, now after playing more board games I just saw this and thought it might be the best bag to carry everything at once.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRMEZTK/

The ultimate dream would be to carry 1-2 board games, a few MTG decks, a playmat and my laptop. Has anyone found something like that?

I think OP is fine with his referral link (it doesn't add more cost to the item), but in case you aren't a fan of that sort of thing, here is the non-referral link: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRMHGQ4/

Whatever i can fit in here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRMHGQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a guitar stand to prop it up in a corner. I got one from Amazon for around 8 bucks, although it seems to have gotten a bit more expensive. Fit my Ownboard W1 without doing anything to the stand itself. I also think it's a pretty awesome way to display your board at the same time :D.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/

I have a big Pedaltrain board - I think it's like 32 inches long. I recently decided I needed a smaller board for when space is tight, or when I don't want to lug 50 lbs of pedals. I went with this board from Gator. I also have a Voodoo Labs power supply on the big board, but I was feeling poor when it came to the new one. I wound up going with this one, figuring I could always return it, if it was noisy. But it's been dead quiet and powers the pedals fine.

Non isolated: https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO

That listing says it's isolated but I am almost certain it's not, but for 40$ you get 8 9v outputs + a 12v and 18v. 1 9v is 500ma so you could daisy chain it for another 5 100ma pedals.

Isolated:

The Donner ISO 8 cost 80-90$ but is actually isolated though it only has 8 outputs but a few are switchable from 9-12-18v, and it has 2 300ma outputs so once again you could chain up a few extra pedals.

I have the cheaper supply except it's branded as Caline, otherwise it's identical. It's worked great for a long time, even though it isn't isolated I've only had a few pedals that were noisy with it. The only downside is a lack of on/off switch, but I just unplug the power input which only takes a few seconds longer.

I know you said you don't need higher voltage outputs, but they can be nice. Eventually you may have a use for them, some pedals really do sound better at higher voltages though only a few are made for it. Also the Donner ISO 8 has 2 4-9v outputs so you can starve pedals which is an interesting feature.

1x4 board cut to desired length, built into desired size/shape. $5-20, or possibly repurposed.
Stain, sandpaper, glue, miter box and saw, clamps. $50 mostly reusable, building tool kit.

pedalboard tape $30 enough for 10-15 pedalboards.

isolated power supply $40.

The tape is the best, I unabashedly recommend it, 3M makes good stuff. The power supply I cannot recommend for or against because I have no experience with it. I'm sure some time shopping and researching will find a $40-90 solution that is recommended.

I'd suggest making the top at least two boards 18-24" wide with a 1" gap between them. Connect them with three angled bits to a bottom piece made from two more boards. Leave room for the power supply between top and bottom. Use the gap between the boards to keep the wiring. You can use more board to build a cover. Cabinet hardware to secure top to board, but be removable. It can look as raw or polished as you want. Paint, stain, stickers, whatever.

Edit: Also, watch That Pedal Show. Depending on your time, the above materials plus the time to learn and redo mistakes can quickly add up to "It might be cheaper to buy a manufactured board".

I have this already https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495833819&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=donner+power+supply&psc=1 which is about the same thing.

I just don't like that the best way to connect it is a flimsy and cumbersome wall wort. I'd much rather have a hefty and universal extension cable.

Yeah, all of the Chinese PSU's aren't isolated but claim to be

https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488230501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=donner+power+supply&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Isolated-Cricuit-Overcurrent-Protection/dp/B00HH62VB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1488230530&sr=8-4&keywords=guitar+power+supply

https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Supplies-Isolated-Guitar-Adapter/dp/B01F8BVN9M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488230530&sr=8-5&keywords=guitar+power+supply


https://www.amazon.com/JOYO-Supply-JP-02-Isolated-Effect/dp/B00B5X2W4I/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1488230530&sr=8-10&keywords=guitar+power+supply

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Isolated-Outputs-Polarity-Reversal/dp/B01I19HNLA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1488230530&sr=8-11&keywords=guitar+power+supply

it's just a daisy chain. this has been documented, check the product questions/reviews, google it as well-forum posts

Who knows how precise this is (hint: probably not very) but what's wrong with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Donner-DP-1-Guitar-Supply-Isolated/dp/B00WHLLDWO

I don't personally, but those are good power supplies. The Voodoo Labs supplies are popular as well. I actually run two cheap power supplies I got on Amazon - they aren't completely isolated, but I have had 0 issues with them at all: Donner Dp-1 Guitar Pedal Power Supply 10 Isolated DC Output for 9V/12V/18V Effect Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e4Ozzb3PHSFDH

Here

Very cheap amazon ones

AmazonBasics Guitar Folding A-Frame Stand for Acoustic and Electric Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4E9EDb327X3AR

AmazonBasics Guitar Folding A-Frame Stand for Acoustic and Electric Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jbvCDb1DW4ND9

If an electric violin is anything like an electric guitar, you would be able to adjust the volume on the amplifier.

​

As for mutes, I bought this on Amazon and it seems like exactly what you need. It dampens the sound. Like, a lot. So much so that you could probably realistically leave two adjacent bedroom doors open and another person in the other room would only just hear it.

I would say it's maybe 30-70% louder than an electric depending on which mute you are using. Just guesstimates, people are generally bad at comparing volumes.

Here's a recording of muted (this mute, different from the one I linked just now. this is a heavier one), unmuted vs the Yamaha YEV104 electric violin, which is not marketed as a silent violin.

https://soundcloud.com/user-924209568/recording-12


(pardon the crappy playing and the mic cracking on the unmuted violin, and also the order of playing, I only realised how retarded the order is in hindsight)

What sort of price range/brand might you recommend? Is "solid body" generally the quietest type of electric violin?

I already have an acoustic violin that I practice with at home, so maybe a heavy mute is the way to go if they'll be similar in volume. Do you have any recommendation on heavy mutes? /u/Yawzsheek recommended this mute, would that be considered a "heavy" mute?

In my (very limited) experience, violin is easier, though I did have guitar/bass experience first.

As far as neighbors go, as long as you're not a jerk about it, like playing at 3 in the morning, you should be fine. I have invested in one of these mutes recommended in another thread. They are much more effective than just a plain rubber one.

edit: I also am starting at the age 34. I always wanted to learn, and decided to pull the trigger. I'm taking an adult introductory group class at the Old Town School of Folk Music, and I think the average age is upper-30s/lower-40s, ranging from mid-20s to 60s. It's never too late to start.

I'd suggest a simple looper, like the mini Ditto at ~$100, and a reverb, Biyang Rv-10 TRI Reverb at ~$60.

BTW the ditto looper here just recently got reduced in price on Amazon from $120 to $96. It's been on my wishlist for a while and this is the lowest I've seen it (for a brand new one) so I bit the bullet yesterday and ordered one.

Amazon, search for DR-NEON you got from 9, 10, and 11 sized and up.

https://www.amazon.ca/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464098840&sr=8-1&keywords=DR-neon+strings

DR color coded guitar strings

https://www.amazon.com/DR-Strings-NMCE-10-Electric-Multi-Color/dp/B00DND2SN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481154810&sr=8-1&keywords=dr+colored+strings

Snark Tuner

https://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-Guitar-Tuner-Blue/dp/B003VWJ2K8/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1481249934&sr=1-3&keywords=snark+tuner

Both good stocking stuffers

No idea on patterns, but use one of these and it works great. Should be simple to create a pattern from looking at it.

ChromaCast CC-CBAG-S Padded Cajon Bag with Carry Handle and Shoulder Straps, Standard Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRMEZTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dXnvCbT21Y4C9

I bought a chromacast cajon bag like this one (12.5”x12.5”x20”) and it holds maybe 4-6 full-sized normal 12”x12” boxes well. I think I paid $13 at walmart online, but I can’t seem to find one under like $25-30 now.

Also if you're cheap like me, this Cajon drum case fits the factory Celestron foam with a little cutting and works really well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRMEZTK

Equivalent on Amazon dot CA is $39 USD.

You should look into getting this.

I know this isn't precisely a solution to making lots of games tiny and fit in a small space, BUT it does solve the problem of a mobile storage solution.

I bought one of these on recommendation from a few BGG threads, and it's been wonderfully easy to bring games to game night because I just throw it all in the bag and wear it like a backpack. Then, if I still want more games, I can put them in another bag.

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-L-Padded-Handle-Shoulder/dp/B00IRMHGQ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527097375&sr=8-2&keywords=chromacast+bag

Check it out, I have this one in the large size. Easily fits 5-7 games depending on size. You can even cram some smallbox games in there alongside them too. I have a few different bags for board games and this one's my favorite.

Bingo. I have two of them. Getting one more for my Evolve Bamboo GT with All Terrain wheels.

Linkage: Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO

A guitar stand this one specifically
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Stage-Universal-Guitar-Stand/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523125976&sr=8-5&keywords=guitar+stands

Top Stage® Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QJoOS2rxq1Na1

Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gnu5WimqbJjpw 10 bucks you just bend the arms to fit the board.

This one works perfectly for me
Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iKOFAb3FZ3NG7

It’s actually a cheap $12 guitar mount, purchased from Amazon.com. It was suggested to me from a video or blog I encountered, which listed it as one of the best accessories for Boosted Boards. It’s a guitar stand, but it works perfectly for Boosted Boards. Link to the product on Amazon is below...

Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_brJ2CbZ7RCJ55

Basic guitar stand : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_aJGxBxbcltWKm

Pro tip: use a guitar stand like this. It works great and is only 10 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works with my GTX AT setup. I can post a pic later once I am off work!

Wow the price soared on the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm using this one for my Inboard that is 15~16 lbs with battery in. NO sign of tipping over. I think Koowheel is also ~16 lbs so should work fine. I got mine for ~10 bucks, but it's soared since then. But really, any other ones should work fine too and if it doesn't just return say it can't support your instrument. XD

Right now, what's holding my pride and joy is a La-Z-Boy from the mid-90's. When my wife's not sitting in the chair, the guitar gets the $15 special from Guitar Center. Upright tripod style.

Those little A-frames suck, IMHO, if we're thinking of the same thing?

Anything isolated in my opinion. You could do a 1 spot in the meantime, but I stopped using mine several years ago after I got more pedals. I have a Walrus Phoenix, but that’s totally overkill for you right now. They have a smaller version called the Aetos which is really great. It’s on the higher end of the price. MXR and T Rex have some options that are around the $99 mark. Amazon has some generic versions called Donners, which I’ve seen before and will probably work fine for a while. I guess you just take the risk as it gets older of the probably no-name transformers going out and surging your pedals; maybe not worth it then.

I do highly recommend either the MXR mini and T Rex mini are my most recommended if you can afford them.

I have one of these- works perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=77653013976887&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=donner+pedal+power+supply&qid=1563761923&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

depending on your budget

low (~35 bucks): one spot, donner dp

medium (~90 bucks): donner iso, mxr iso brick

a bit higher (~120 bucks and up): truetone cs7, voodoo labs pp2, walrus aetos

all these should cover your current and future needs. the medium and higher priced ones are isolated and will have clean power, the one spot and cheaper donner might introduce some noise depending on what you're plugging in to

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHLLDWO?psc=1. I've only had it around 6 months, but it's been reliable and is reasonably priced. It's got 8 9v, 1 12v and 1 18v outlets. 1 of the 9v is 500ma so if you don't have any high power draw pedals you can put a daisy chain cable off it to power more than one pedal. All the other 9v are 100ma.

What you're looking for is called a "boost converter" in power electronic terms. If you find one, make sure it has good filtering since it's going to have a switch in it that creates noise unless it's an expensive or heavy linear converter (usually with a transformer in it).

If I was going to do this, I'd either just deal with two supplies or get something that kicks out all of the necessary voltages like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO

The problem with the multiple output voltages is that the receptacles on it look like they are the same configuration, so you could accidentally plug your 9V pedal into the 12V or 18V ones, and that could cause catastrophic damage.

Because I'm kind of an idiot, I don't like using systems/connection configurations that combine voltages unless I really need to. If I end up plugging the wrong thing into the wrong thing, things blow up. I'd just keep a separate wiring system for things with different voltages even though it's annoying so I didn't do anything stupid.

If you are planning on getting any other pedals, consider getting a multi-supply power box, like this.

They're pretty cheap and handy.

I’m looking at buying a pedal board and amp for my acoustic guitar. The amp is strictly for home practice and not for gigs. For the pedal board I was looking at the gator aluminum board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJYE1CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q9j3Cb8P04M3V
For the power supply for the board I was looking at the Donner DP-1: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j.j3Cb1VH1V0Q
For the amp I was considering the Acoustic A20. I was just interested in any feedback and recommendations?

Donner DP-1 from the looks of it.

Thanks for the tips! I am powering everything other than the digitech pedals with a Donner power supply (https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO).

I will try putting the NS-2 after it.

Behringer makes a version, although I doubt it's much better quality, if at all. I've had my 1Spot for years and it's never failed! It's possible you had a dud. I'd give 'em another chance!

Another option would be to get an inexpensive power supply to leave at home. I have this one on my board. It's basically a glorified daisy chain but with more voltage options. I really want a fancy isolated supply but couldn't justify the cost at the moment. This one one suits me fine for now and I could see it doing well in a at-home convenience situation.

If all of you guys are wanting a power supply thats not stupid expensive https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHLLDWO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Check it out, currently running it on my set up, even my strats are quiet.

Price wise well it beats buying a voodoo lab power brick promising the same performance.

Cheers too all, and nice set of drives mr OP

Sorry, misread the question. It has individual current ratings depending on which output you plug into. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHLLDWO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one which seems fine. And the humming seems to be only coming from the fuzz pedal.

Alternatively, here's a non-isolated brick for slightly more, but will look much much nicer on your board

Edit: forgot the link. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHLLDWO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449974688&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=isolated+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51TjSpRlIEL&ref=plSrch

$40. It’s a workhorse, had it for years with no issues. Here’s the link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHLLDWO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527695009&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=donner+power+supply&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Folding-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B018FCZKR2

I’m looking for a small floor longboard stand. I was wondering if anyone has used the amazon basics one to hold a drop through board. Does it work well? I figure that it will easily hold my dinghy but I’m not sure how it will do with the shape of the drop through. Does anyone have any suggestions for stands?

The AmazonBasics ones: AmazonBasics Guitar Folding A-Frame Stand for Acoustic and Electric Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ALdsDbPB2KN1Z

Any of the cheap stands work fine. These low ones are nice because the heads of the tall ones always seem to get in the way for me. The tall ones are more stable and amazon basics has one for about the same price as well.


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Folding-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=sr_1_7?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1467826142&sr=1-7&keywords=guitar+stand

AmazonBasics Guitar Folding A-Frame Stand for Acoustic and Electric Guitars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UsORBbDF68Z1C

Thanks! its on a stand haha, just hard to see. it is not leaning on the radiator, about two feet in front of it.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Folding-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B018FCZKR2

Generic folding stand like this

I personally have the Amazon Basics version and its awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Folding-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B018FCZKR2

Consensus from other users that bought both is that the Amazon Basics one is better quality.

The one I got was this one from Amazon Canada and seems to be slightly different. Looking at mine with the Inmotion V8 (13.5kg), I think the weak point of the stand would be that pivot near the two arms that hold the wheel. When I look at pictures of the one you listed the part that I am talking about seems to be rigid which is a good thing given the extra weight of your wheel. I obviously can't say for sure but it seems like a good purchase :)

This one I tried and did not work. The top of the "A" is right at the middle of the wheel. The board leans too far forward.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018FCZKR2/

Some can, some can't. If it's in a local shop why not giving them a call? Something like this can (deep fire acoustic but groove in the middle for the thinner electric)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018FCZKR2

Weird - I swear there was a link - https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Accessories-Pro-Winder-Guitar-String/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=guitar+tool&qid=1563290623&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Thanks for your input! Did you happen to buy your all-in-one online? And do you know the company you bought it from? Someone in the comments suggested the "D'addario all-in-one" from amazon, but after reading the reviews multiple people have said that the wire cutter barely makes a dent in the strings. So it basically is useless in being able to cut through the guitar strings and their guitars looks like acoustic (from the pics they posted). I'll link you the product down below.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eg5iDb87RY7Z1


Any help would be appreciated!

OF course the tone will be off, unless you have tin ears.

Plus the strings will be oxidized.

Strings are cheap at ~$4-$5 and you you can learn how to do this easily by watch Youtube vids.

Just buy a string cutter at Guitar Center or Amazon and use an tuning app on your smartphone to tune it:

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509595230&sr=8-3&keywords=guitar+string+cutter

Guitar, Amp, Instrument Cable, Headphones, Auto-Tuner, Metronome, Capo, Picks, Strings, Stand, Strap, Bag, String Winder, Polish & Cloth

Don't make them spend more than ~$200 on this. Consider pitching on for some of the accessories at least (though be aware that some of them are quite necessary right off the bat, such as a tuner).

You won't be able to appreciate the difference between a $100 guitar and a $5000 guitar by sound for at least a year and just to get started you need a bunch of supplies (see list above) and the cost adds up quick.

The guitar won't break unless you abuse it. Squier instruments are decent. In fact, you could even get something like a First Act at Walmart for under $100 and still not be able to appreciate the difference for quite a while.

These are great and are cheaper than a good pair of fingernail clippers:

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=pd_sim_267_28?ie=UTF8&dpID=41bSgDct7YL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=JHKQARMWPCC0VJSCH0SZ

Buy this $12 tuner from Amazon. It costs something like $30 from Guitar Center so don't get it there.

Add one of these $7 combination string winders and cutters. Just do it. You'll thank me.

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

If you don't have these things:

Dunlop Trigger Capo, (clip-on?) tuner, string winder/string cutter/pin puller this thing, and a set of new strings. If you don't change them often, grab DR Dragon Skins; they're coated with a super-thin nylon coating, like Elixirs, but not as noticeable. They also last forever.

TC Electronics has a line of pedals for $50 coming soon, I would probably save for one of those myself. Remember that every time you add a pedal, you add at least one cable!

So you'll definitely want a guitar stand. Don't put your guitar away, the more you see it, the more you'll want to play it. Grab one of the small clip on tuners, the snarky brand one's are pretty good, and they're dirt cheap. You'll want a string winder too, and keep a couple extra sets of strings around. My favorite strings are the martin SP series strings, very lively tones.

As far as lessons go, while I know a lot of people get a lot out of them, I'd say your best bet would just be finding songs you want to learn how to play, and learning how to play them. These days, you can find a Youtube walkthrough on how to play almost any song. After learning songs you want to play, the abstract concepts of what actually makes up that song will start to soak in. This in addition to learning all your basic chords, and you'll be off and running in no time. The thing I'd be worried about as far as lessons go would be if it ends up feeling like a chore. That being said, it's all up to you.

String winder : https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Accessories-Pro-Winder-Guitar-String/dp/B0002E1G5C

Tuner : https://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN5X-Guitar-Violin-Current/dp/B01H74YV56

My Favorite Strings : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CZST4

Behold your salvation.

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

Yeah, I just meant for clipping nails. I found myself in a bind earlier this week. For the string ends I use the Planet Waves string winder/cutter. It also has a wedge for removing the pegs in your acoustic. It's one of those items I think every guitarist should own. I use an older model of the product below.

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C

Pin puller:

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Winder-String-Cutter/dp/B0002E1G5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427138719&sr=8-1&keywords=string+winder

I have mine hanging with one of these screwed into a stud. No problems and it keeps it out of the way of the kids

NOOOOOOOOOOOO that sucks.
I have these to prevent this sort of thing:

http://www.amazon.com/String-Swing-CC01K-Hardwood-Studio/dp/B0002GLCRC

http://www.amazon.com/String-Swing-CC01KOAK-Hardwood-Studio/dp/B0002GLCRC/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1457039011&sr=1-3&keywords=guitar+wall+mount

Here's my input along with links to products.

1. Put the bed on risers to add storage space.
   
2. Make a headboard for your bed. If you're handy, this can be done cheaply. If you're not handy, you can buy one for a reasonable price.
   
3. Can the dresser and the desk be swapped? If so, put the desk next to the bed so that you don't wake up to a wall to your right and so you can look out the window while working at your desk. The desk can also serve as a bedside table.
   
4. Mount the monitors on the wall to free up desk space. Here are a couple options - two singles and a double.
   
5. Re-do the shelves. They have a very garage feel. Some cheap board from the hardware store to even out the sides would make a real difference.
   
6. Put at least a picture above the bed on the side that's to your left while sleeping. It should be longer than it is tall. Scenery is good. I have this in my bedroom and I like the effect.
   
7. Mount the guitar on the wall.

I would get something like this to put the guitar on the wall since your floor space is at a premium.

I use these and absolutely love them. Wall Hanger

You can find the stud of you want, but at my current place I just went into the drywall anchor

hang a an old steel guitar with something like this? or perhaps a banjo or mandolin may even fit in with the decor better. also, is that a recessed light at the top of it? i think its a really fantastic space that, if used correctly, would really make the area "pop."

I have bought some "String Swing" wall hangers for a few guitars and even a Ukulele (I know they are much lighter) and they seem very well built. The wood is good quality and it comes with drywall hangers. Sans hanging on them with your own body weight, they would hold just about anything.

Ideas related to guitar:1) Framed guitar poster: https://www.popchartlab.com/products/a-visual-compendium-of-guitars 2) for $200 you could buy a nice additional instrument like a ukulele or a mandolin 3) Guitar hanger http://amzn.to/2vt0pC0 4) Bullet journal for playing notes.

with a guitar hanger. but i guess it might depend how big the head is.

George Lawrence Stone's Stick Control
I use that book daily, along with a good drum pad like this

If you just want a 'basic, all around' stick I would recommend SD1s from Vic Firth. They are a great, standard size stick that can be used for a lot of different purposes.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Vic-Firth-American-SD1-General/dp/B0002F4TKA

​

If you want to immediately start out with marching percussion, the stick I would recommend starting with Ralph Hardimons also from Vic Firth.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Vic-Firth-Corpsmaster-Signature-Hardimon/dp/B0002F6NJA?keywords=Corpsmaster+drum+sticks&qid=1540777270&s=Musical+Instruments&sr=1-1&ref=sr_1_1

​

There are other types of marching sticks with some different features that can be better or worse for you depending on what you are playing, your natural playing tendency and other things but these are sticks that have a nice weight, about the standard size for marching sticks and will help you while at least starting off and learning some of the basics.

​

As far as practice pad, I would recommend any double sided pad with two different types of material to play on. One that I have used for many, many years that I believe is a great pad is the double sided Reel Feel pad.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Evans-2-Sided-Practice-Pad-Inch/dp/B000FMDIXY

​

There are other pads than this that are also really good, I am not saying this is the "only" pad you should get, but that this pad will certainly work for what you need.

​

I hope this helps some.

WALL OF TEXT AHEAD.

I am a guitarist/bassist turned drummer as well. I've recently discovered that it's much easier to keep time and play syncopated rhythms on the kick if you change the tension to loose. Check this video out if you haven't yet. Dave's slide technique changed the way I kick, and my knees don't hurt nearly as much.

As for finding "independence" of your limbs, repetition is key. Do it slowly, and create muscle memory. Another way I've been able to start attempting more complex things is that I visualize the rhythms themselves in "shapes", similar to what I would do for a chord progression on guitar or bass.

I visualize a line where my arms have to move in order to hit the correct drums and cymbals. I do this slowly and build up speed and eventually I can get it down.

Also, BUY A PRACTICE PAD! THIS ONE! I bought mine a few months ago since I used to live about an hour away from my kit, and I would practice rudiments daily and then apply them on my kit at the end of the week. I can do a lot of the rudiments now, which helps you learn how to save your arms from getting tired, and you learn more wrist control to find more efficiency out of your stroke.

TL;DR: Make sure you set up your kit correctly, practice slowly to build muscle memory, and eventually you can start creating what you head in your head.

Hey Paradigm84! Guess what. :) I ordered drum sticks and a practice pad. Everything should be here within the next week. I ordered the below items:

1. https://www.amazon.com/Evans-RealFeel-2-Sided-Practice-Pad/dp/B000FMDIXY/ref=sr_1_26_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1542754328&sr=1-26-spons&keywords=drum+practice+pad&psc=1
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Vic-Firth-American-Classic-Sticks/dp/B0002F741Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542752754&sr=8-5&keywords=5A+drumsticks
   
   Your input helped me in getting this equipment. Thank you!

He has autism. In a world where he is constantly being corrected, music therapy allows him to react naturally and enjoy the moment. There's no wrong way. He also learns turn taking when he and the therapist go back and forth through singing.

What do you think of this one? https://www.amazon.com/Evans-RealFeel-2-Sided-Practice-Pad/dp/B000FMDIXY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1542302041&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=drum+practice+pads&psc=1#

Depending on the quality of their setup, a nicer practice pad for the snare would be a terrific gift, and only cost ~$30.

These are the pads I would recommend:
Durable, Reliable. What I use at home

Precise rebound for marching band or metal

Flagship practice pad. Beautiful feel/response, but $50 I/O $30

i have had the Evans real feel pad for a while and it is really good for a durable pad and it plays pretty well too. never heard of the drumeo 4 surface before though. https://www.amazon.com/RealFeel-Evans-Practice-Pad-Inch/dp/B000FMDIXY?th=1 this is the link to the pad that i use myself if you want to check it out.

For practicing at home, I really like the Evans RealFeel practice pad. I went for the 12" so I can use it in my extra snare stand easily.

As for sticks, you can either go for what feels the best for now or go on the heavier side for chops building as /u/justawildyaz said.

Personally, I love these ProMark Neil Peart signature sticks.

Good luck, newbie. Rock it.

I only started over Christmas but I've been learning through the rudiments on this practice pad: http://www.amazon.com/Evans-2-Sided-Practice-Pad-Inch/dp/B000FMDIXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420331721&sr=8-1&keywords=practice+pad.

I've been using this site : http://www.vicfirth.com/education/rudiments.php ,they have some explanations of what each rudiment is (I am total beginner to music so couldn't understand the more complicated ones just from the notation) and some different levels that I have been attempting (bronze to platinum).

So I think I'm going make a Thinline Tele. Going to build the body and buy a prebuilt neck. What all hardware do I need? Right now I've found:

• Body blank
  
• Tele Bridge
  
• Thinline pickguard
  
• Vintage Reissue pickups
  
• 2 potentiometers
  
• 3 way switch (and tip)
  
• binding
  
• Switchcraft input jack and cup
  
• knobs
  
• neck plate and screws
  
• string ferrules
  
• Telecaster neck
  
• tuners
  
  I guess I should probably get extra wiring? Anything else?

Assuming you don't have vintage style tuners then Fender has Schallers or their Deluxe.

I have the Deluxe version installed on my Tele and Strat and they work great. Either one would be a breeze to install since they both drop right into the existing holes and simply tighten on with a wrench. No screws needed since they have 2 little studs that prevent them from twisting.

Don't know what guitar(s) you've got but the first thing I bought for both of my Strats was Fender Locking Tuners.

and if I buy any other guitars, the first thing I'm going to get is locking tuners if it doesn't already have it.

• [Wilkinson] (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VS-100N_Tremolo.html) trem. Drill press would be ideal for the post holes, but you could also just clamp a guide to the body.
  
• LSR nut. Unless you have access to a router jig, I would suggest a rectangular file matching the LSR's dimensions to clean up and deepen the slot you're going to start with a super fine cut saw.
  
• Locking Tuners. Staggered, so no more string trees. Super stable tuning when paired with the Wilkinson and LSR, even after divebombs. Those "F" tuners have a super accurate 18:1 gear ratio. I also like that particular design because they're stabilized with a pair of incorporated pegs that slip into pre-drilled holes, instead of relying on a tiny little screw.
  
  I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
  
  EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.

I just put these (amazon.com) in my American telecaster yesterday. It was a zero modification drop-in and took about 5 minutes. I've heard that mexi strats take the same tuners.

I can confirm that the nut is 10mm. This never happens, but I grabbed a 10mm wrench out of my toolbox randomly without knowing the nut size and it fit perfectly. It was like winning the lottery.

Well, considering that is $40 for just the power supply, I will most likely get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-PSA-120S-Boss-Power-Adapter/dp/B0012BPMHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406118945&sr=8-1&keywords=boss+psa-120s

http://www.amazon.com/Visual-Sound-One-Spot-Adapter/dp/B0002GZLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406118995&sr=8-1&keywords=Visual+Sound+1+SPOT

http://www.amazon.com/Visual-Sound-Spot-Combo-Pack/dp/B000RNB720

Probably the latter as it wouldn't hurt to have a new daisy chain, it's possible the contacts are loose on mine and that's causing some of the trouble anyway.

I'm sorry this isn't directly answering your question, but if I were you, I'd go ahead and buy a 1 spot or a normal 9v adapter, or if you plan on getting more pedals, an isolated power supply. the whole battery thing has cost me a lot in the long run and I've stopped bothering with it.

That power should work, but get one of these instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Visual-Sound-Spot-Combo-Pack/dp/B000RNB720

Buy This I've seen it for as low as $20.

Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding your post but please don't do what you were thinking about doing.

Edit: I understand now. I imagine you can integrate the wall wart in your board somehow and do what u/TheKBRT suggested and use an extension cord for a clean look.

I would also recommend one of the Onespot combo packs They're pretty much the best cheap way to power pedals.

Eventually I'd like to get a pedal power but for now I have two of these.

This? I'd be worried a fire is going to start from that, haha. But, not a bad idea to have two and pedal 8 pedals from it.

edit: I'm not serious about the fire.

Might want to give it a shot.

I run a tuner, wah wah, DS-1, Danelectro vibrato, and a CH-1 through it, no issues at all.

You could leave that pedal plugged in, turned on, etc. for 50 years and it will be fine, except maybe a dead battery. Try one of these if you have more than a couple pedals: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RNB720/ I love it.

I just wanted to chime in! I use a Boveda 72%. I have this case that holds the humidifier inside.

I've never had problems with mold, maybe for these reasons: I wipe my reeds off with my cleaning cloth before I put them away, I live in a super dry climate, and the part of the reed case where the back of the reeds sits isn't totally flat; it has channels where air touches the back of the reed.

I'm using their humidity control pack case with 73% humidity packs.

Here’s the reed case I use! It keeps my reeds from wrinkling. You can also drop a silica packet in your case to absorb moisture.

boop

When was the last time you cleaned your tone holes?

Take the A key off and use a Q-tip and some water to wipe out any crap that's there. Also, check the pad on the A key to see if it's intact. Sometimes bladder pads can tear and the flap will vibrate as the note is played. Might as well check the register tube as well. You'll need a pipe cleaner for that one.

You can easily do this yourself with a precision screwdriver, just make sure not to lose the screws, and make sure to reattach the spring on the A key when you're done. If you really don't feel comfortable with it, take it to a tech.

Do you have humidity controls for your reeds? If not, drop $20 and grab one of these bad boys. That will help with reeds starting out ok and then becoming not ok. Your reeds are probably warped, which is why they're not responding. You can check it this way: Assemble the mouthpiece, reed, ligature as usual. Use the palm of your hand to seal the bottom of the mouthpiece, and suck all the air out with your mouth. The reed should maintain the seal for several seconds. If it can't, it's warped.

As for your loaner. If the instrument is new, it's likely to have bad pads that don't seal. That would explain the fuzzy sound, squeaky notes, and tough altissimo. It could be the mouthpiece you're playing on is crap. I don't think you're going to wear out a mouthpiece in three weeks, but the mouthpiece pad is a good idea. You can always clean it with some cotton balls and apple cider vinegar afterwards. You could try contacting the shop and seeing if you can get your usual mouthpiece back if you left it there.

Reeds is where you will find most of the cost for it. If you always use the one, after just 3 to 4 days it may stop making the proper vibrations.

I have 4 reeds I rotate between, and replace them every month. My 10 pack of tenor reeds cost me ~33$. I would recommend getting a reed case as well just to help you keep the reeds in better conditions and helps remember what reed you should use next.

I have a rico reed case and some of those humidifier things. I got a 6-pack of humidifier packets for a buck-each. Considering they have been lasting me >3 months each, that's dirt cheap.

They have definitely increased the longevity of my reeds. I am sure you can get the same if you take care of your reeds and spend the time on it like another commenter is noting, but I see no need when I have such an easy and cheap way of doing so with what I bought.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SN7VGO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000G39732&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=180RZXE1B51TVTCKJ6WA

If I were doing this over, I'd pair the Focusrite Scarlett Solo with the Audio Technica BPHS1 broadcasting headset. And that would actually have gotten me better sound for less money.

Hell, I'm tempted to bite the bullet on that headset. I've seen it recommended many times before.

I'm thinking about buying a mic for discord, maybe streaming (emphasis maybe) and am leaning towards a dynamic mic because I've been told that they're better for reducing background noise vs a condenser.

If I get a dynamic mic with XLR out, what would be the okayest way to hook it up to my PC with acceptable input levels? At the moment, I'm considering this headset with the mic connected to the PC via this XLR to USB cable. Will that combination work ok, or should I be looking at something else?

The other thing I'm considering is this USB stand-alone mic and having game sound through my speakers.

I apologise is this isn't the right place to ask.

Here's what I use. Not nearly the best, but it's manageable for the average Joe or group.

Current

• Streaming: OBS Studio (Win 0.14.x)
  
• Overlay: HTML/Javascript w/ StreamControl writing data to JSON and JS polling it.
  
• Capture Device: Startech USB3HDCAP + XRGB-mini Framemeister
  
• WebCams: 2x Logitech C920
  
• Audio Mixer: Mackie Mix 8
  
• Headsets: 2x Audio-Technica BPHS1
  
• Misc: Powered Composite Splitter, Behringer HA400 Headphone Amp
  
• Stream Tools: Nightbot, TwitchAlerts
  
  

  Deprecated
  

• Capture Device: Dazzle DVC 100
  
  BPHS1s are kind of the standard for accessible and reasonably priced xlr headsets.
  
  I was getting decent quality out of my old dazzle before I switched, people just need to learn how to setup their bitrate properly to reduce artifacts and how to deinterlace their capture via amarectv or using the built in obs plugins (I used yadifx4 for the longest time) which do a nice, respectable job. Would I recommend a dazzle? Eh, it produces decent video for the price (got mine on ebay for $20), but has some compatibility issues - if you do a quick search for audio issues with the dazzle you'll find a couple threads. There are workarounds, but it's finicky.
  
  Ideally though, streams should be capturing component video. It removes the need for software/external hardware deinterlacing. The issue here is that you either need a TV that supports component, or a component->composite converter, which I've seen people have performance issues with in the past.
  My current setup uses a Framemeister to upscale the composite signal and handle the deinterlacing, outputting HDMI to the USB3HDCAP. The advantage is that I get to feed straight composite signals to any plain old CRT, which is great because I've been recording out of a suitcase the last few months while I move around.
  
  I build my overlays in JavaScript and HTML; there's a layer of logic that polls a local JSON file written by StreamControl for changes and updates them on the page.
  
  Just taking off on a flight. More info later. (It's later)
  
  Sample with the Dazzle

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1395582681&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones


This one.

The reason being is that I cannot hear anything due to limitations on Windows sound control. Only one of the headsets gets sound, the second one doesn't, and then I cannot hear anything with another headphone (comparing game audio levels to commentators, etc.) due to only one of the headsets getting sound. This interface would allow me to hook up two microphones and headsets to it, they could hear themselves (and other commentator), and I could monitor all sounds.

This is a temporary, cheaper fix and eventually I will be upgrading to these two headsets.

Although they're a bit on the pricier end depending on where you shop, the Audio-Technica BPHS1 headsets are awesome. They're practically the golden standard for semi-pro broadcasters at this point. I've had great experience with them both indoors and out.

The Audio-Technica BPHS1 is what Seananners and Hutch use but you'll need an audio interface to turn the analogue XLR cable to a digital USB to your computer, like a Scarlett solo.

The Antlion Mod Mic isn't too bad from what I've been hearing and you can attach it to most headphones as long as there is a smooth flat non-textured surface for it to mount to.

And there's one other I was eyeing a long time ago from Audio-Technica with the supposedly best mic on the market for headsets but I never heard if it ever got brought to the U.S. I think Summit uses that one but I can't recall the name of it.

Headset capsules are much smaller so it cannot capture as wide a range of frequencies as your Blue Yetti. So you will lose some quality in your voice but depending on how you personally sound it may either be only a slight difference, or you might sound like you're trying to talk with your hand over your mouth.

I believe his headset is one of these.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Series-Stereo-Headset/dp/B003D87JI2

Couldn't comment on recording software though.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2

I know your max is $300, but hold out longer and go with these. They are sturdy, high quality, and will be well worth the investment. We have 5 of them lol

Here :D http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-BPHS1-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset/dp/B003D87JI2/ref=sr_1_16?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1451605782&sr=1-16&keywords=Audio-Technica

Price History

My personal favorite.

It's worth talking to him and seeing which body shape he likes best. You can find Strat, Tele, Jazzmaster, Mustang, SGs and even Les Paul styles for about the same price. Starting with something that you really like and identify with can make a huge difference to keep motivation at that harsh beginning.

Anyway, here's my recommendation:

• Amp: Fender Frontman 10G 10W - $59.99
  
  You can't really get a good amp and it won't make that much difference at the beginning so it's best to focus on the guitar for now. I started with an amp similar to that one (maybe even worse) and it was perfectly capable for years.
  
  
• Guitar: Squier Affinity Stratocaster - $155-$179.99
  
  A very solid choice for a first guitar. You can get the Telecaster version for about the same price but that specific Strat is on sale today at MF so it might be worth picking it up.
  
  Here you also have the choice of spending a bit more and going for a $180 $200 guitar, such as the Yamaha Pacifica, the LTD EC-10, a Jackson JS22-7 or even a Jazzmaster, which is my personal favorite choice. All these other choices depend drastically on the style of music he likes to listen and play. That's why it's worth talking to him beforehand.
  
  Anyway, considering you're going for the first strat, here's the other recommendations to finish the package:
  
  
• Elixir .09 strings- $9.99
  
  Some people love them, other hate, but it's fact that they're great for people starting out and even just playing/practicing in their bedroom. I use these as my every day strings. They don't rust and contrary to regular strings that will last you 2-4 weeks, these last several months.
  
  
• Dunlop Pick Pack Variety - $3.99
  
  Just so he can test and choose between several picks.
  
  
• Planet Waves 10ft cable - $7.99
  
  Just a solid and simple cable.
  
  
• Snark Tuner SN-1 - $9.15
  
  Fantastic, accurate and reliable little clip-on tuner. I've been using these for years and they're very well regarded.
  
  Total: $246.11
  
  
  EDIT: Of course that after I finished typing this whole post I went to check the value pack kit posted here and realized that the first Squier kit is basically what I selected plus a nice discount. Well, fuck me... I'm still keeping the post up.
  
  By the way, if you do get the kit at $200, consider getting a setup done to the guitar for about $40~$50. All guitars usually require it but it's much more important on these cheap ones. They usually play like garbage out of the box and to be playable they require a basic setup.

What about a clip-on tuner? http://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8

for guitarists/bass players: Clip on tuner

http://www.amazon.com/Snark-SN1-SN-1-Tuner/dp/B003VWJ2K8

bkev covered mute strings well.

Regarding online tuners, they are fairly accurate.

If you want to buy one, I've been using Snark SN-5 which is easy to see in bright lights, and is only about $10.

but you can get by with the Snark SN-1 which is a little over $8 just fine.

With these, the battery lasts a long time, and you don't have to go online to tune-up. Just clip it onto your guitar and go.

There are plenty of others as well. Check them all out.

Standard tuning going from the thickest to the thinnest string is E-A-D-G. If you think the E string is too deep compared to the rest of them, play the 5th fret of the E string along with the open A string. The notes should be the same if tuned correctly and should resonate. If you hear a kind of "pulsing" beat sound then they are not tuned correctly to each other.

If you're looking for a new tuner, I'd recommend this. I have one and in terms of accuracy and ease of use it blows other chromatic tuners away.

If the strings turn out to all be tuned correctly and you still feel like your E string is a little looser than you would like, you could invest in a heavier gauge set of strings. This would help to maintain the string tension and make the deeper strings less floppy.

I'd pick up a cheap snark tuner for around $10. The online/app ones are fine, but it's really, really nice having a dedicated one handy right next to your instrument at all times.

Here are my accessories in a backpack I take to every gig:

• Snark Tuner
  
• Sansamp Bass Driver DI
  
• Two extra 9V Batteries
  
• Vitamin C
  
• Herb Wong's Jazz Fakebook
  
• Two cables (I should be carrying two more)
  
• Pen
  
• Blank sheet music
  
• Strepsils (I sing)
  
• Two sets of earplugs
  
• Folder containing repertoire and lyrics of our set
  
• Extra set of strings
  
  I hope this helps!

This banjo tuner would help me become a rockstar.

I first taught myself guitar in the early 70s. (yes, I'm old)

I bought a guitar from my buddy for five bucks, went to the music shop and got some strings, a basics book with a lesson on tuning and a few songs in it and a pitch pipe. (I don't recommend a pitch pipe, get yourself a chromatic tuner like the highly rated Snark http://www.amazon.com/Snark-Instrument-Clip-On-Chromatic-Tuner/dp/B003VWKPHC/ref=pd_cp_MI_0.)

Pick out a two chord song like Jambalaya and work it to the bone using C and G7. Then advance from there. Try to start with something simple like that first.

Youtube can be a terrific resource, but, for me, keeping it simple in the beginning made it doable.

YMMV

Others will probably chime in with ideas about fixing your intonation which is probably (partially) your problem but what helped me was changing out the factory strings and putting on a decent set of new ones.

Also; don't trust the in-game tuner; it's far too generous and forgiving even though the game itself isn't. Either get a headstock tuner (any of them, even the super-cheap ones seem to work better than the in-game one); or an in-line tuner.

I'm partial to the Snark SN-2 tuner myself. Get the SN-2 All Instrument tuner, it's more versatile than the "Ukulele" tuner and costs the same.

For the short term, try a smartphone app, or if you can tune by ear, there are youtube tutorials that play the tones.

If its ok that its a tad bit over $10
or
New strings

I've really been wanting to commit myself to learning how to play an instrument and the uke seems like an easy place to start! I'm in the process of saving up for a good uke and these would definitely help me succeed!

I want to learn something new.(:

thank you very much! i am flying soon via Delta and planning to carry some of my favorite boardgames, and some of them have huge boxes (Robinson Crusoe, Xenoshyft, Ghost Stories, Mage Knight etc...). I hope i don't run into complications with TSA. will be carrying them by the way through this :

http://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Cajon/dp/B004GH8QTA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=A3QI5PL377NJ1M

I was gifted by my wife a Meinl Cajon bag and i like it a lots . The bag holds 5 or 6 good size games, it is easy to carry, affordable and good quality. A link is below to check it out.



https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-Bag-Standard-Size-Heavy-MSTCJB/dp/B004GH8QTA

I had a chromacast bag for a bit and liked it but it was very flimsy. Doing more research I found this bag

Meinl Percussion MSTCJB Standard Cajon Bag, Black (VIDEO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fNfKAb0ETGK37

It’s a nice mix between chromacast and game canopy bags. Nice and sturdy and a hell of a lot cheaper.

::edit:: also because of the way the bag is, you can carry coffin boxes in it pretty easily.

I was using a verticle one, the chromacast that a lot of people recommend. I recently switched to https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Cajon/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495562207&sr=8-2&keywords=cajon+bag

I am so much happier with it now. I like the horizontalness of this one better personally. It is also easier to carry like that. It also feels more secure than the chromacast.

The Chromacast bags are awesome.

Another one that people seem to like:
https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Cajon/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493933518&sr=8-2&keywords=cajon+bag

Cajon bags work perfectly. The reviews even show board games fitting perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tgN1Bb7NDQJ70

No joke, one of these will fit Gloomhaven in almost perfectly (Gloomhaven is slightly smaller than the bag).

https://www.amazon.com/Meinl-Percussion-MSTCJB-Standard-Cajon/dp/B004GH8QTA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521582468&sr=8-3&keywords=meinl+percussion+bag

The title made me cringe, you can just ask for help, no guilt trip needed. :)

So, I think art and textiles are what you're missing here to give your room some warmth and personality. Your room doesn't really say anything about you, what are you into? What colours do you like?

For art you don't need to spend tons of money - hit up sites like society6, etsy, deviant art, etc and grab some prints that speak to you in some way. I would use either of the long walls you have to create a nice gallery wall of a few prints you like. Pick up cheap frames from IKEA, Walmart, discount-store-of-choice, keep the frame colours the same (all black/white/birch/whatever) to keep the collection cohesive.

Use what you have already for additional interest - hang that guitar(s? Is the blue thing on top of the armoire also an instrument?) with a guitar hook.

Textiles like bedding, and curtains will also personalise the space and can be a place where you go big and bold with colour if that appeals to you. It's also possible to recover your chairs with a new fabric, again something that would make it potentially more 'you'. The contrast of traditional furniture with spunky fabric is stylish and a good way to keep it feeling more modern.

Definitely get a new overhead light, and perhaps a desk lamp as well. Well-designed rooms have more than one source of lighting, so you can change it up for the task at hand.

If you want to go for the bonus round, think about picking up a plant or two to give the space some life. Google low-maintenance plants if you have a black thumb - there are plants that can withstand a fair amount of neglect but still bring some green into your world.

The most important thing is to find stuff that you like - you can be advised to pick this colour or that colour, or this print or that painting, but if you don't like them, what's the point?

You really just need to shake it off really well in your shower using a snapping motion with your wrist like cracking a whip. Then it can sit on the flat side of the handle with the knot up. That being said, I do like to hang my brushes to display my gear so I found this on Amazon and cut the arms down a bit to fit the brush. The arms are adjustable width so they will fit pretty much any brush handle: https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1529878926&sr=8-4&keywords=guitar+hanger+wall+mount&pldnSite=1

Musical instruments can be hung on a wall. Turns them into an art piece, and it's also probably better for your instruments to not be stored in a humid, hot area (near water heater).

http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Hanger-Holder-Mount-Display/dp/B005CX4GLE

As for the guitars, maybe look into getting some guitar wall hangers so that you get those off the floor? Plus it would look cool and fill up some wall space if your room is sparsely decorated.

Shower caddies help with organizing the personal hygiene stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX4GLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do go with wall mounts, I just got these last night and they held up all of my guitars. Good cheap price too

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX4GLE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

A pick punch! I use old gift cards/credit cards etc to make cheap guitar picks.

Get a pick punch for $24 and recycle all your old credit cards or other bits of plastic.

Multi gauge. http://www.amazon.com/Estone-String-Action-Measuring-Luthier/dp/B00HTUAX1K

Pick punch, make picks out of credit cards and such.

http://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-The-Original-Guitar/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=zg_bs_11967641_68

Maintenance kit http://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-System-Guitar-Maintenance-Kit/dp/B0002E1H9W/ref=zg_bs_11967641_80

iRig http://www.amazon.com/IK-Multimedia-Studio-Quality-Guitar-Interface/dp/B00BIRR1TC/ref=zg_bs_11967641_85

Or

Cheap or used interface like a Line 6 GuitarPort, UX1, Behringer U-Phoria UM2, ETC

This is a great cheap unique gift for a guitarist: http://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-The-Original-Guitar/dp/B005FIFM14

One of the best cheap gifts I have received as a guitarist is a PickPunch. You can make your own picks out of old gift cards and old credit cards. It is awesome!!! They will never need to buy picks again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2SsDAbP0CA12R

I also sub to r/lockpicking. I was really confused for a minute. You should get one of these

this is the one that I have. https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-Original-PROCESS-PRIORITY/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542292431&sr=8-4&keywords=guitar+pick+punch

I'll have to give this a try. Not sure if this is the one that OP is using or not.

Are you talking about these things?

If s/he's a guitarist or bassist: stands, straps, new strings, picks, string winders, cleaning kits. A more "novelty" gift is this thing (I have it and it's pretty nice).

Instruments under $50 are rarely good, except maybe for small percussions.

Or a pick maker! Popsugar did a better job finding one, but I can't locate the article. Try here

http://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-PP00/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341521962&sr=8-1&keywords=pickmaster+plectrum+punch+maker

I got a Pick Punch for christmas a few years back and it is useful for making picks out certain materials i have around.

If you want a never-ending supply of picks: https://www.amazon.com/Pick-Punch-Original-PROCESS-PRIORITY/dp/B005FIFM14/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pick+punch&qid=1572525225&sr=8-4


My wife got me one for Christmas 3-4 years back, and it not only results in you having faaaar more picks than you will EVER use, it's actually fun making them.

I would like the game Red Orchestra. This lets you make your own guitar pick out of old plastic cards. I thought it was quite cool for people who can play the guitar to make their pick look like whatever they want.

I guess things I enjoy. Hobbies, experiences, things like that. That's why my music is one of the centerpieces of the room, instead of waiting until I had more space. I have trinkets from travelling around, some currency from foreign countries I could frame, that kind of thing. I was considering hanging my Les Paul guitar on the wall, with either somthing like this hanger or this horizontal one. I also have a little acoustic guitar like this.

Music, life experiences, could be the two main things.

On amazon it's selling for $118 which is still $20 cheaper for a pedal that will take up less board space.

I've used one of these (large size), and strongly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/ChromaCast-CC-CBAG-S-Padded-Shoulder-Standard/dp/B00IRMEZTK/

Probably a similar level of padding to what you're describing, but also a much better shape and at a good price. As for whether or not that's enough padding will depend on your own personal tastes and how much abuse you plan on giving it.

Donner Dp-1 Guitar Pedal Power Supply 10 Isolated DC Output for 9V/12V/18V Effect Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aH8LDb56ZTWFY I use this power supply for my board and it works wonders for its price

You say that like having a gaming headset and having a pair of headphones that produce good quality sound are mutually exclusive.

If you even did a little research you'd find that all of the respected headphone (audio technica, beyerdynamic, sennheiser) brands also produce headsets for a variety of budgets.

Here are a few examples:

Beyerdynamic

Sennheiser

Audio Technica