Best nippers & snips according to redditors

We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best nippers & snips. We ranked the 53 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Nippers & Snips:

u/groovyfinch · 469 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Okay, I can talk scissors.

These look great for certain purposes, but to me they look like they'd be a nightmare in the kitchen -- hard and time consuming to dry, non-dishwasher friendly. For the kitchen I prefer come apart shears, which you can take completely apart to wash and dry.

For cutting paper, regular Fiskars will never fail you.

If you want to cut fabric, you need a dedicated pair of fabric shears. If you like to do anything fabric-oriented, it's worth having a separate pair because dull scissors will shred, rather than cutting. You can go with Ginghers if you feel like going actual BIFL, but I've used Fiskars for 10 years without a hint of wear on them.

For opening boxes, a simple or classic utility knife/box-cutter will do the job and keep your scissor blades from getting crap on them.

And for heavier-duty cutting (like zip-ties), get a pair of compound snips so you don't mess up the blades of your regular scissors.

Edit: it's hilarious to me that this comment has gotten so much attention. There's a lot of good info and alternate suggestions below. The compound snips especially seem to be overqualified for my uses, although as a person whose hands get tender and finicky, especially in the colder months, it's definitely nice to have something that takes the effort out of cutting those damn zip ties.

u/pasher7 · 81 pointsr/videos

Reference Links:

1. Wiss Tin Snips used in this video, $10.99 Amazon.

2. Bike Portland article.

I love the last line in the article where the CEO of Ottolock says, "Not that big of a deal from a technical point of view. It’s just an unfortunate PR hassle."

3. Shop Ottolock compare page with marketing video.

The video showing Ottolock trying to cut it with tin snips seems pretty deceptive.

u/strocknar · 52 pointsr/EDC

Maxpedition individual first aid pouch


zipper pocket:

u/austinskye · 7 pointsr/electricians

I use these for anything that has a finish or material which I’m worried about scratching up:
Knipex jaw protectors for 10” cobra pliers

They are awesome, last a while, are easy to put on/take off, but fit like a glove.

u/Niyok · 6 pointsr/CrappyDesign

I find tin snips work well.

They're used for cutting through metal, so it has no problem going through plastic.

u/Khrrck · 6 pointsr/bestoflegaladvice

I own a pair (they're really excellent as utility scissors for cutting hose, plastic packaging, etc). They have blunt tips and an angled handle, and are designed to slide along skin safely.

I wouldn't ever WANT to use them for their intended purpose, but it seems like they'd do the job just fine...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XB4U0C/

u/DiscoKittie · 6 pointsr/kittens

Get a good set of cat claw trimmers (honestly I use a pair of wire snips similar to these, they work the best for my skittish kitty). Get him used to them. You don't have to cut them very short, just nub the tips a little. :) I have one cat I have to do when he sleeping, he's a biter when it comes to nail trimming time! :D

Get a rope wrapped scratching post, and/or a cardboard scratching thingee one of the slanted ones. Cats need to scratch things, it helps them shed claw layers. If you don't give them an outlet, they will go after the furniture.

Have fun with him! Love him lots and lots!

u/erleichda_archiving · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

There is a tool for every job.

u/jhra · 4 pointsr/ems

Space Pen

Littman Stetho

MagLite

Glove pouch

Shears

Tool Holster


That's what I carried with a volly service.

u/speechiespeech · 4 pointsr/quilting
u/RainbowAndGlitter · 3 pointsr/quilting

Popped in to mention, the nice thing about rag quilts (of you're still planning to make a rag quilt), is you can make the seams as large as you want and it will just make the ragged bits more fluffy when it's washed, so if you wanted to, you could incorporate the original stitch lines in the seam.

Also, if you plan to make it a rag quilt, I HIGHLY recommend some good scissors. I had a pair of friskars I had bought from Walmart and they fell apart after two or three smallish rag quilts. I really like the Heritage ones and they seem to have stay sharp longer. They cost more to purchase, but oh my gosh, your hands will thank you. Good luck! I'm sure it will be super cute.

u/Problem119V-0800 · 3 pointsr/sex

I think you just need to keep reassuring her. Especially reassure her that even though you were physically uncomfortable and freaking out a bit, you always felt safe with her— that you still trusted her, knew she wasn't trying to do something you weren't OK with, etc.

It's actually pretty easy to accidentally put someone in a position where they asphyxiate or lose circulation when experimenting with bondage. That's why it's a good idea to always have a sturdy pair of scissors (like bandage shears or EMT shears) in the toy box in case you need to get someone out of the ropes in a hurry. And the top should keep an eye out for anything turning blue or purple that shouldn't be. This page has a nice list of cautions for a bunch of different kinds of kink. Jay Wiseman's book is often recommended in the BDSM communities I've known.

On another note, maybe your profuse apology reminded her of her old abusive(?) relationship? Maybe it was one of those things where she always had to apologize for being hurt by him ("I'm sorry I made you beat me!", "I'm sorry I didn't like it when you forced yourself on me", etc)? You don't really have a lot to apologize for after all. Breaking the mood, etc., but that happens, that's normal, an apology is nice but it isn't a big deal. You were probably in an unfamiliar vulnerable headspace and apologized a lot, and maybe she recognized in you the way she acted when she was being hurt.

u/krazykitties · 2 pointsr/ECR_Plus

$250 is way too much for what you listed, you can get way cheaper than that. Keep in mind you really don't NEED 100W to use an RDA. My homemade DNA30 is great for a cool vape on something with a bit more restricted airflow than the Mutation, but that will still work just fine. I would stick with your current Sigelei 30W until you know for sure you want to upgrade, because that is going to cost you the single most amount of money.

If you want the mutation x v2, grab it here for $30, its worth getting this one authentic and not a clone because its so cheap to begin with and most clones do not have the wide bore drip tip.

Japanese Cotton is what I usually use.

For the rest of your gear, Lightning Vapes has a good selection of well priced rebuilding supplies:

Ohm Meter $14.75

I recommend Ceramic Tweezers $12.95

I mostly use 28ga Kanthal (100 feet for $6.25) with my 30W box mod, with mechs I use lower gauges

I would also find a pair of flush cutters to snip wires as close to the posts as you can, and some nice small scissors to cut your cotton.

OH! Almost forgot, this is what I use to wrap my coils.

As a general rule of thumb, don't buy wire or wick from websites that sell mostly juice or hardware, it will almost always be overpriced.


If you want to get REALLY cheap and don't mind waiting, go check out Fasttech

u/Sita_Raine · 2 pointsr/quilting

When I first started sewing, all I did was rag quilts. I love that they're super forgiving.

Do you have some snips for the fringe? These guys were one of the best investments I made.

u/Frai23 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Here is how to turn it into a good experience:
Put all the minis he has now aside with the box. You guys will fix everything later.

Get these 4 things (most of them you got in your house anyway):

a) A diagonal cutter for elecronics for 3-5$ to perfectly remove models from the sprues
b) a small metallic nail file to deburr said models
c) the best plastic glue in the world the needlehead is easy to use even for a 10y old and will make sure not to soak the models in glue
d) DE Skysplinter set to "start from 0"

Now all you do is drop his ass off in a Games Workshop store. Tell them what happened. Buy this Skysplinter set there and they will be thrilled to help him build it in store. They'll teach him how to hold the tools, how to correctly deburr the models, how to glue and position them the right way.
Now your son will be ready to rework his Start Collecting. The same store will help him out with messed up or missing parts. Chances are high he will have enough spare parts from your skysplinter set anyway.

He'll even have a full 500 points army.
The typical army sizes are: 500p, 750p, 1000p, 1500p and 1850p.

500 points is good enough for the first couple of months (think 3-6 months) before it starts to get boring. His list should be something like:

HQ:
Archon (Agonizer, Shadow field, Splinter Pistol)
Troops:
10 Kabalyte Warriors (1 Shredder, 1 Dark Lance)

  • Raider (Dark Lance)
    10 Kabalyte Warriors (1 Shredder, 1 Dark Lance)
  • Raider (Dark Lance)
    Fast Attack:
    3 Reaver Jetbikes

    This is a really good start anyway and he can develop his army into any desired direction from here.
    The Gangs of Commorragh set for example might be nice addition from there on. It is dirt-cheap and will catapult his army to 750 points. If he happens to like Hellions and jetbikes of course. Do not buy something like this right away, let him paint and play with his 500 points first. This is more like a 1 year plan.
u/cephaloman · 2 pointsr/flytying

I love thread nipper style scissors. They are cheap and accurate. Also keep a pair of cheap-o regular scissors around for metal wire and other tough stuff.

u/weaveleswobble · 2 pointsr/nursing

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XB4U0C?pc_redir=1409926795&robot_redir=1

Best trauma shears ever at a great price. Most bandage scissors can't cut Kerlex. These cut jeans no problem.

Instead of a pen light that will die every few months, I use a LED light on a keyring. I keep it clipped to my badge so it's always within reach and I don't forget it. Mine was a couple of bucks at an army surplus store and has lasted two years so far.

If your program requires a BP cuff, see if you can buy it from an older student.

u/dex1 · 2 pointsr/emergencymedicine

-nice shears clipped to belt with carabiner which is also nice for holding keys

-Stethoscope with belt holder

-clicky top pens

-I also like parker pens if you can get them in bulk

-smartphone with pepid - expensive but has drugs and quickie reads on even rare conditions, has a few holes, but pretty good

-personalized stamp with DEA, LIC, NPI

-spectralink phone provided by hospital with outside dial able number

-cherokee personalized scrub top, landau poplin personalized coat (feels nice, fits well, inexpensive), carhartt cargos (hard to find), comfy shoes

Made complete list so I can come back and reorder stuff, hehe

u/dppdo11 · 2 pointsr/BDSMcommunity

By titanium version, do you mean this?

u/zeugma17 · 1 pointr/EDC

I work in EMS and I’ll never buy them. I’ve cut through Carhartt insulated clothes with the shears I get from amazon and they’re only $10, so when they get all nasty with blood/vomit or if they get misplaced, I don’t feel like I’ve wasted money.

Link for those curious:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XB4U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vBJwDbRPRHK8H

u/protogenxl · 1 pointr/NYCC

In my experience it depends on the rent-a-cop, for example I always have paramedic sheares in the webbing of my backpack and have done so for the last 4 years both at con and out of con. Until Sunday last year when I not only had to explain what a camelbak was, he wanted to check the scissors that actually had a little bit of dust on them. I could not stop myself from laughing in his face. I composed myself enough to say keep them and walked in......

u/nemgrea · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

good call, I usually buy a set like this that includes the angled one and then toss them when they wear out or I set them somewhere and lose them since they're cheap enough

u/lavardera · 1 pointr/Knipex
u/RangerSkyy · 1 pointr/autorepair

Besides a welder, here are some tools and sealers you may need.

Ingersoll Rand 1/4" Air Die Grinder 3107G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VZC9PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UopXCbSGKRWDR

Wiss METALMASTER M3R 9-3/4" Compound Action Snips, Straight, Left, Right https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EppXCbHEASVCR

Estwing Ball Peen Hammer - 12 oz Metalworking Tool with Forged Steel Construction & Shock Reduction Grip - E3-12BP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT0OQQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CqpXCbX8EYP89

3M 08367 Black Coatings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9ZR8HO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ppXCb796EXQG

u/Ceilingmaster212 · 1 pointr/specializedtools

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDFLV3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_V6FzDbHR3XNKT

Prepare to face the wrath of the exact opposite tool, out battle will be legendary

u/run1235 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

compared to the ones i got in a gunpla builders kit, yes. took me 9 hours to build this model using the god hand, i can guarantee it would have been over 15hrs if i hadnt used the godhand nippers due to how much sanding i would have to do. you can get one here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6U0WCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that's the one i used. well worth it if you think you can take care of them. (dont use them to cut any thick spurs)

u/kretik · 1 pointr/Vaping101

Not much to add to an excellent setup. I find that long-term the hardest part is to find the juice you really like, because the gear generally tends to be good if you go for what most people are using. I'd only add one of these which are a godsend when wicking. Vape on!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/ems

I have these, they're inexpensive, and they seem to work much better than the cheap shears my company buys.

http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-Titanium-Bonded-Bent-Snips/dp/B000XB4U0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367854274&sr=8-2&keywords=trauma+shears

u/outsourced_bob · 1 pointr/metalworking
u/doopdoopderp · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yeah that would probably work, if you don't mind mutilating it, just get a compound snip and cut the middle out

u/jhulbe · 1 pointr/kayakfishing

I run a pretty light setup. I've never used a milk crate or bucket

In the back I have a dry box that holds a small battery for my fishfinder, I put my keys in there, and I usually throw my sandals back there. Then my stringer and anchor too.

If I'm going to keep a fish I put it on a stringer and keep it in the water while i'm not moving. I keep the stringer on a 4ft piece of line and I wrap it around an anchor cleat so the fish sink a little and stay cold. Then when i go to leave a place I pull it up and put them in back or just over my feet.

In the hole between my legs, I keep my fish gripper, tackle box, and a pair of forceps and boomerang clippers on a nite ize key chain with retracable clips. This usually stays just clipped my life vest / neck lanyard so it's all easily accessible all the time.


Then my net, and fishing poles. My kayak has built in rod holders

Fish Stringer


Boomerang Clippers


Fish Gripper

Dry Box


nite ize locking clip for clippers, grippers and pliers


Gear teather for my fish grippers

u/holyfilament · 1 pointr/DIY

When we cut this stuff at work we typically just use a pair of straight snips. Cuts through it just fine as it is just light plastic.

http://www.amazon.com/Malco-M14N-14-Inch-Straight-Aluminum/dp/B000F1H3WW

u/AmplifiedApthocarics · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Looks like the bed of an old chevrolet.

They make these rubber/plasticy fender flares for four wheelin' that basically hole punch or self tap onto your existing body (it's brutal but looks like a few new holes are the least of that car's body issues) don't get the ones with the adhesive.. those ones are shit, get the ones that physically attach to your rusted out panels lol

These are just examples, you'll have to find he ones that fit your exact truck/suv of course but they make them for just about every truck ever made, they're pretty affordable.https://www.amazon.com/Premium-2010-2018-Fleetside-Paintable-Bolt-Riveted/dp/B01NATZCNC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=fender+flares&qid=1563498806&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I'd use a pair of Tin snips and work your way through that rust until you get back to pretty fresh metal.. then sand the edges with 40~60 grit and then paint it with that anti-rusting primer paint and go about buttoning on those new fender flares.. you'll pass with flying colors for about 100$ and a few hours of basic work.

[edit] Here's a triple pair of metal working snips... lol you'll probably want all three and figure out why about 20 minutes into cutting the first fender... so I linked what i'd personally get for that job and maybe a few more around the house in the future because they're pretty useful tools to have in general.https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-Straight-Cutters-Aluminum-Leather/dp/B07RKHV3GC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=tin+snips&qid=1563498992&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

u/FridayNiteGoatParade · 1 pointr/guns

Or these

u/dinst · 1 pointr/Tools

I love my cobras, and I've tried NWS, DeWalt, Milwaukee, channel lock. Cobras 7/10/12" are a must for me.

Pliers wrench, if you are worried about finish/scratches. I only slightly care about them.

Dykes, I'm all for the wiha bicut. These I got to replace my Knipex 10". Main thing is hard sharp tooling.

Wiha 32636 Bicut SuperCut Compound Cutters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7UR8VO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9lIDCbFQAT47G

u/wwjbrickd · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm assuming you cut up your normal ones right? So just get a pair of tin snips and do the same.

For clarity