Best office glue & adhesives according to redditors

We found 127 Reddit comments discussing the best office glue & adhesives. We ranked the 58 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Subcategories:

Glue sticks
Liquid white glues
Rubber cement
Cyanoalcylate adhesives
Film & tape dry adhesives
Spray adhesives

Top Reddit comments about Office Glue & Adhesives:

u/Armins-Copy-Of-Swank · 12 pointsr/3Dprinting

STL is from u/WaltRitt and uploaded at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891771

I use Hycote Filler Primer but am open to suggestions for better alternatives.

Plasto is made by Revell and I believe is an alternative to Bondo, which we can't seem to get here in the UK.

Epoxy is Gorilla Epoxy

The wood was an old Scrabble tile I found which happened to have the same thickness so I just cut to size with a sharp craft knife.

u/SavageIndustries · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is what everybody is using.

u/omally114 · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Dual Lock is what you want. Hook and loop sucks because you have to keep your strips straight, with this, anything goes (and I literally have my 15 lb (7 kg) speakers hanging from the wall with this stuff).

It's magical.

u/Christmas_Pirate · 7 pointsr/Bitcoin

Rubber Cement + printout = indellible sticker.

u/fuckingsamoan · 6 pointsr/DIY

I'm not OP, but it's another layer of soundproofing. You apply it between the layers of drywall.

http://www.amazon.com/Case-Green-Glue-Noiseproofing-Compound/dp/B000SKWD8Y

u/DiscordDraconequus · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yup, link worked fine. Lets figure this out.

You've got a M3D, which as /u/Keebie81 said isn't the best. If I understand it has proprietary software which could make things difficult, but we'll see what we can do.

So first off lets get some background information. What kind of filament are you using? ABS, PLA, or something else? Can you get us some idea of what settings you're using? Take screenshots of every setting page you can find so we can see what settings you have now and what extra things we have to tweak.

Just taking a look at it, it seems like you're having adhesion problems (which can be fixed with treating the print surface appropriately and fine-tuning your Z-height) and warping problems (which are usually material and temperature related).

*

We can try to take a crack at adhesion first. There's three big parts to this: making sure you've got a good surface, making sure the surface is treated with the right stuff to get maximum stick, and then making sure your nozzle is close enough to the printer to get the filament down right.

On the first point: painter's tape is a good, cheap bed surface that seems to work great for a lot of people. I use this stuff. There might be blue painter's tape somewhere in a janitor's closet or shop room somewhere, but you might have to go get some yourself. First clean off your bed surface with alcohol and a good cloth that won't leave anything behind, then lay down your strips nice and flat with no air bubbles and as little gap between them as possible. I also use a putty knife to smooth it all flat.

On the second point: getting your bed surface (and z-height) can be enough, but you can get
extremely good sticking with a good bed treatment. There are two popular methods: glue sticks or hair spray. (Take a look at the "Customers who bought this also bought..." for the hair-spray, it's not what you'd expect for a beauty product.) I use that hair spray, and spray a cloth which i then wipe onto the painter's tape for a nice, even coat. You can pick some up at CVS, and I'm sure you have glue sticks laying around at school.

Finally: adjusting your z-height. This is going to be slightly hardware dependent so I may not be a ton of help here, but you have to be really precise in where your nozzle homes to. Heat up your printer (so it's thermally expanded to it's "printing" size), take a piece of white printer paper, put it under the nozzle, then land the nozzle. Now grab one edge of the paper with two hands and try to push and pull the paper. If you can
easily move it without feeling any resistance from the nozzle, your nozzle tip is too high and needs to be lowered. If the paper is pinched in place and only bunches up when you try to push it, you are too low and need to raise the nozzle. If you can move it but feel a slight resistance** from the nozzle without it actually bunching up, then you're golden.

u/mchrispen · 5 pointsr/Homebrewing

When I do labels, I have them printed from a PDF at some place that does the color laser printing, onto a good paper stock.

Then I use these - https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486578385&sr=8-5&keywords=school+glue

They come off with a simple soak, and do not change or run the color. I don't use my inkjet as the moisture build up from chilling the bottles will cause the ink to run.

u/Gretna20 · 5 pointsr/bikewrench
u/SCMSuperSterling · 5 pointsr/guitarpedals

Never used it, but in my experience, suction cups don't seem to work very well on wood, even polished wood. On top of that, a lot of people are saying this stuff gets dirty pretty easily. I would just use 3m Dual Lock instead. I used velcro before, but it gets worn out, and my pedals tend to move and wiggle a little bit which I don't like.

u/bakelit · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

One of the cheapest ways to significantly cut down on sound leakage is to double up the sheetrock on the walls with a layer of Green Glue in between them. Make sure to caulk all corners, joints, and anything that could possibly let air leak through it. If you can, get a door that seals shut when you close it, but if you're on a budget, just try to get a heavy, solid door, and put weather stripping around it, sealing off all the cracks.

As far as filling the walls with insulation, I know Roxul makes some great sound baffling insulations like Safe N' Sound, or other similar ones that will also help you cut down on sound leakage significantly. And if you have the time and effort, I've heard it helps to put staggered cross braces between studs to break up the large number of identical resonant chambers in the walls to several smaller, different sized resonant chambers. Granted, I've never done it before, but adding some cross braces between studs doesn't seem like a whole lot of extra work if there's a potential for it to make the room sound better. Maybe someone can chime in on how effective it really is.

Floating the floor will help a lot for isolating the bass, but you can also build some smaller platforms for things like bass and guitar amps and drum kits. Or you can get something like the Auralex Gramma pads for them if you don't want to build them yourself. They won't isolate as much as an isolated floor, but they'll help.

Then finally work on acoustic treatment to make the room sound "nice" for rehearsal and recording. Make some corner bass traps out of thick rockwool panels or Owens Corning 705/703 (depending on what you can get your hand on), hang some scattered absorption panels on the wall, leave some scattered wall surfaces bare, and maybe add some diffusers to the room to add some natural reflections and break up the big, empty, rectangular space. But acoustic treatment for a live room depends on a lot of things, so that's something you'll probably have to figure out on your own.

Luckily the 15 degree roof pitch will help a lot in taming the room and creating a more acoustically even space, which is convenient. Often studios will design all of their walls and flat surfaces to be at different angles to reduce the prominence of room modes that can create some odd sounding spots in the room. The angled roof won't make it perfect, but it will make it better than a roof that's parallel to the floor.

u/Paul-Kersey · 3 pointsr/FiiO

I have my E6 attached to my Fuze with 3M Dual Lock. Here's a good article from InnerFidelity with some more information.

u/Heavy_Weapons_Guy_ · 3 pointsr/atheism

I present my new invention: rubber glue

u/maladroitthief · 3 pointsr/DMAcademy

I used this battle mat

Amazon Link

Some rubber cement

Amazon Link

Also some kind of sanded particle board from Lowes/Home Depot. I can't remember what it was called, but 1/8" thick. At the time I was in college and had access to the school's laser table and was able to cut using that. I couldn't see why a table saw wouldn't work though.

I made all the tiles powers of two (Computer engineer, can't help it). If I remember it was like 1x1, 1x2, 1x4, 2x2, 2x4, 2x8, 4x4, 4x8, and 8x8 tiles. You can do any other sizes or increments, that's just what I am most comfortable with.

u/anotherlittlepiece · 2 pointsr/LetsChat

>I can imagine you doing that XD (having a sticky note on my hammer)

I always laugh at myself when I do, but it works! : )

>I don't keep sticky notes at home.

We were talking about adhesives. This is a fun one. It makes any paper into a sticky note. : )

>I'll figure out the sandwich thing. It's in my enormous list of food bookmarks XD

Perfect!!

u/TheBG · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I use Elmer's All Purpose School Glue Sticks, Clear, Washable, 4 Pack, 0.24-ounce sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.UmGAbVBPRXYY

Dirt cheap and since using them I've never had a print break loose.

u/muleskinnerslider · 2 pointsr/ender3

I have a similar type of glass bed (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJ9WKRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my CE3Pro and this brand of glass has poor adhesion - period. I call it 'black ice'. The other mods on the list are also similar to mine, with the exception that I've added an upgraded vent ring for the cooling fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456). For quite a while I used blue painters tape and it seemd to work in the beginning, but I had some issues with warpage/shrinkage, air bubbles, tears, seam lines and typical tape things.

Lately I switched to brushing on Elmers liquid disappearing purple school glue, which is a PVA based glue (https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Liquid-5-Ounces/dp/B01NCQAFGD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=287FNHW09Q8D1&keywords=elmers+disappearing+purple+liquid+school+glue&qid=1572698053&sprefix=elmers+liquid+purple%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-1). 5 oz of it costs less then $3 at Walmart. There is an Amazon branded version of the glue also, but I haven't tested it. It works much better then the tape as I have absolutely no issues with it at all. I'm getting those 'near two thousand dollar printer quality prints' now that I read about all the time that the CE3 is capable of. I put on just enough to cover the area that I'm printing on and a little goes a long way. It's generally good for about 2 or 3 prints. It's washable, so it's easy to clean and reapply when needed. Some people use the glue stick version, but there are complaints about that somewhat 'globbing' on and being less evenly distributed on the bed.

I basically consider the glass to be a good starting point for getting a good basic level bed surface as compared to trusting that the build plate is true. One of these days I plan to try out a PEI sheet (on top of the glass). Many claim it's the absolute best, but for my budget at this time, it's too deep for my pockets at $15 a sheet.

u/bswiftly · 2 pointsr/hoggit

One thought for an upgrade to replace packing tape. Velcro kinda sucks but 3m makes a great alternative. It holds my throttle down nicely.

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB4575 Low Profile Black, 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007OXK330/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eti3DbY4RCZKP


It doesn't hold too well with vertical pressure, so might pop off easier than Velcro. But the horizontal strength is rock solid.

Might be a good way to snap your HOTAS in place.

u/psmydog · 2 pointsr/VEDC

I would buy this,

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP03-12-Volt-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B000ET9SAU/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980138&sr=1-12&keywords=slime+air+pump

and

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-2040-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET9SAA/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980761&sr=1-5&keywords=tire+plug+kit

In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.

Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Rubber-Cement-oz/dp/B003V9UU66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1448981382&sr=8-5&keywords=rubber+cement

Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.

That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Lengthened-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U

This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.


As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.

I would splurge for these nice jumper cables

http://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-Listed/dp/B00VHE76GE/ref=lp_15719941_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448981135&sr=1-1

That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.

I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.


u/whore-for-cheese · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

um theres this van gogh notebook for $1.99, but its got free prime shipping http://amzn.eu/aDupw9S https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486498549/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486498549&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=1
oh look, monet water lilies notebook is $1.38 https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2


or you could get 3 things of elmers glue for your crafts https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Liquid-School-Washable-Ounces/dp/B010DS107K/ref=sr_1_21_a_it?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=8-21&fpw=pantry&keywords=under+%241&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

photo prints for $0.09 each https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2

theres also a bunch of prime pantry items. like white cheddar and shell pasta, fried rice, and candy for #1 or less.

yeah, all of those have free shipping, otherwise I might have found cooler stuff :)

u/Flat-sphere · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

u/digitalyss · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These glue sticks would be awesome. My kids go through glue sticks like crazy, especially doing crafts for the holidays, lol.

pay attention in class!

u/BillDaCatt · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You will probably need a powered usb hub to connect the drives. Not absolutely necessary but the Pi only has two usb ports (the micro b port is just for power to the Pi) and cannot power notebook drives directly. Plus, the extra ports on a hub will allow you to connect your drives, a mouse, a keyboard, and a Wi-Fi card; all at the same time.

The case I have been using is the [Punnet printable case.] (http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1310)

I did not have any heavy card stock to print it on. So I printed the case on regular paper and glued it to some thin cardboard from a box of crackers. To keep the glue from wrinkling the paper, I used a "school glue" style glue stick. You can find glue sticks almost anywhere that sells office or craft supplies. Then I cut it out with scissors and a razor knife.

u/GrandmaGos · 2 pointsr/crafts

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-Washable-School-Glue-145g/dp/B001G9EBDG

In the U.S. it's commonly found at Walmart in the school supplies aisle, along with the pads of cheap construction paper and watercolor paints, that sort of thing.

u/jam3s2001 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use one of these these... Frequently. I haven't tried purple. I've got about a 0.1mm thick layer of it on the bed from frequent usage. The coating seems to prevent the need to print wet, and it gives me a bit of a "scraper buffer" on the glass.

u/cassinonorth · 2 pointsr/triathlon

> I've heard some people aren't happy with how much exposed cable there is (aerodynamics). Also that there are no top tube mounts.

Both of these are easily remedied with some double sided velcro. I bought the TorHans AeroX bento, threw a couple pieces on the top tube and the box and threw my Di2 junction box in there then heat shrinked the etube wires and brake cables together. It's not perfect but it's wayyyy better than what it originally was.

u/zarqghoti · 2 pointsr/rocketry

I use "The Original Super Glue" brand, here's an inexpensive bulk-pack of the Gel stuff Super Glue 15185 Gel, 12-Pack, .07oz tubes. You go through a LOT of it this way. On my Super Bertha I went through something like 6 or 7 tubes for the papering.

u/molly_xxx · 2 pointsr/Drag

I'm in Australia and use a blue gluestick, but if you're in the US I've seen a lot of queens using the Elmers purple sticks. I buy the smallest size so that it's not much wider than my brow, so less clean up haha. https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Washable-0-21-ounce/dp/B00143UIC2

u/Comrade_Cephalopod · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Ah, right.

Try searching "clear glue" on Amazon, I found some of the stuff linked at the bottom of that blog post: Elmers Liquid School Glue, Clear, Washable.

u/Koizilla · 2 pointsr/osugame

Here's a quick tutorial! Do give me a shout if you need clarification of any parts of it!

To make a cover for your cth480 you'll need to find a glass supplier that can cut you a sheet of 2mm glass sheet to 123x205mm.

The prices, quality and precision of the cutting can vary a lot between suppliers and you may need to search around for one that doesn't have a minimum order size.

If you search google maps for glass suppliers, you should be able to find a fair few local suppliers close to where you live!

.

When you get the glass cut, the edges will be very sharp, so you'll need to smooth over everything to make it safe/comfortable to use.
I've experimented with different ways of doing this, but on a small scale, the most effective method I've found has been to use some fabric backed wet/dry sandpaper in the 300-350grit range stuck with double sided tape to a hard smooth surface such as a granite chopping board, or a hard kitchen work surface.

Ideally you'd want some sort of diamond abrasive, but they're more expensive, and harder to get hold of. Sandpaper will work fine for a one off though, but you may want at least one or two spare sheets, as the hard glass sheet will wear down the sandpaper very quickly!

Also, be sure to have something soft to put the sheet down on when you're working so that you don't inadvertently scratch the surface by putting it down on a piece of grit from the grinding process.


.


When it comes to sanding, first off wet the sand paper, this helps the sand paper cut more smoothly as well as keeping the glass dust down. You want to avoid breathing any of the dust if possible!

Hold the glass sheet at around 45 degrees to the sand paper and, applying light pressure, make circular motions to grind the edge down. Your first aim should be to dull all of the sharp edges of the sheet left over from the cutting! This should only take a few strokes over the paper to do!

Decide which side of the sheet you want to be the top. This side will need to be beveled so that it's comfortable to use! Depending how much beveling you want, you can remove as much or as little of the edge as you want.

You can also round off the edges and corners of the cover. I'd recommend doing so if you can work out how to, but I'm not sure how to describe the process without making a video about it.

Once you're done with the grinding you'll want to clean off the cover the same way you'd clean normal glassware!

.

If you want to have the low friction surface finish, then you'll need to get hold of some silicone spray lubricant, you can spray it on the surface and then buff it on with a glasses cloth or some kitchen towel.

The main advantage of the surface finish is that it gets rid of the 'break in' period for the cover. The clean glass cover can start off a bit sticky and takes a little while to become nice and smooth without the silicone finish. You could alternatively rub some candle wax over the surface as a substitute for the spray though.


.

As for attaching the cover to the tablet, so long as the cover doesn't slide around on the tablet it's fine, you could use glue, double sided tape, or any other method you want to stop it moving around.

You could even use something like this on the corners of the cover if you wanted it to be easily removable!

.

hopefully you'll understand some of what I've said in the wall of text that this has become, but do feel free to ask me about any parts of it if you need some clarification or more info!

u/Hafley125 · 1 pointr/papercraft

I have 3 I use for different applications. First being mentioned here a few times, because best.

Tacky glue. I use the gold bottle it's great, sicks nearly instantly, stays tacky for a few minutes in case of adjustments or removal. I use it for structural building. Most used glue. Applied with a toothpick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHGYZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KCkVCb7WCDCNA

Gorilla glue gell. I use this super glue for small details. Places where I don't really have a tab. I use this glue to make the paper solid and stronger. Great glue, the gell makes a difference. I only buy gell now. Applied with a piece of wire. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQTG9E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KEkVCbTVSCR3Y

Classic Elmer's glue. I use this for parts that dont matter. If I need to layer some pieces. I dont use this often but its nice to have when I dont wanna waste my nicer stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012XO26AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LFkVCbP7T0FX0

u/GungHo_Sloane · 1 pointr/LetItDie

Here you go. It's 0.50 cents.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This!

Thank you for the contest!

Neon

u/hamcake · 1 pointr/DIY

For sound dampening, I've read that Green Glue is the best.

u/apostrophie · 1 pointr/Journaling

I used rubber cement. I painted the page with it and laid the tissue paper down. I prefer it to glue for journaling - it doesn’t wrinkle.

u/Pyrobob4 · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm no sound expert or anything, but the expanding foam is much less dense than whats in the solid core doors, so I'd imagine less effective.

Upon further research, it seems like expanding foam isnt well regarded as a noise dampening solution in general. There is a product called Green Glue (which I could only find in 12 packs for $200...), that some people seem to revere as a gift from the soundproofing gods. Price aside, I'm not really sure how you would apply it inside a door, since it looks pretty thick (would be hard to distribute evenly).

Personally, I'd go with the simple option of a new door. But, you have some options now, and its up to you.

u/1unacy · 1 pointr/ender3

I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.

Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P

u/gimpwiz · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Thanks.

I have two cars and three 'projects'.

One underhood project:

  1. Electronically-switched oil accumulator (accusump). Just ignition-hot.
  2. Subtle under-hood lighting (no rice - subtle - will be playing around with it. Might decide it looks like shit, and not do it.) Might also install a switchable work light in case something needs to be done at night.
  3. My own version of a lojack that I haven't gotten around to building. Also, if possible, have it control a secondary fuel pump relay to make the fuel pump die; basically an interlock that makes the car seem broken instead of locked.

    Two under-dash projects that are identical, one for each car:

  4. Hard-wired radar detector
  5. Hard-wired dash cam
  6. Hard-wired USB outputs - one or two dual-12v-to-USB converters
  7. Potentially the lojack-equivalent's battery charger (since it would have a separate small battery)

    The hard part is figuring out where to get a non-fused 12V supply under the dash. An add-a-fuse circuit is very appealing and I should find places where an extra 5-10A won't pop anything, so I may end up doing one 5-10A-add-a-fuse on an ignition-hot line, instead of a 12v-master-fuse + ignition-hot-relay, as the single master fuse for all these.

    Then it would just be a 15A strip terminal instead of a big fat 100A ground bar at the ground side, and a small fuse box at the positive side (with 1A or 2A fuses for each circuit, depending on their needs).

    ---

    I really appreciate your feedback. The only reason I haven't already built all this is because of worries of fucking up and coming back to a smoldering ash heap.

    ---

    I'm also figuring out how to mount all this securely under the hood... I figure these little wire clamps for the wires, and something like this velcro alternative to mount things like the fuse box, except it's hard to tell what temperature they're rated for (and it seems that the 3M stuff I linked will fall off due to heat.) Any ideas there? I want something that is 1) secure as fuck, but 2) that I could potentially remove without damage in the future, maybe using a heat gun or something. I would be mounting it mostly to plastic, but I don't want to drill any holes if possible.
u/Dent7777 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

LIST POST:

 |/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs
:--|:--|:--|:--|:--
 |318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
 |Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
 |2 Free Fem Seeds|0| | 
 |pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|

u/reverends3rvo · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8
u/Sheeobee · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

So I watched this terrible little video, and it got me thinking, and sent me down a rabbit hole - is this even feasible? It would realistically cost me about $25 CAD to attempt it, but I'm worried/don't know the properties of LOCA all that well - if I botch it, is it relatively easy to remove the glue?

Theres also some debate about the quality of some LOCA glues - the one on amazon I was looking at is this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OZKNVUM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A223WORISLZJI5&psc=1

Anyone have any experince with this stuff?

u/hotpocketdeath · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I use liquid glue for my PLA prints.

Mixed 1 part glue to 2 parts distilled water to thin it out. Wipe a very thin layer onto my heated bed with a sponge and let the heat dry it. leaves a very thin, even layer of glue. Parts stick like crazy while it's heated and when the bed cools down, the parts just lift right off with no effort. I have never needed to use any kind of tools to get my parts up.

The glue I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQAFGD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, and the glue washes right off with a little soap and water.

u/Yonkiman · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm also battling nylon adhesion on a PEI bed. Best lead I've found so far is PLA glue.

Let us know if you get it sticking!

u/Panasonicy0uth · 1 pointr/battlestations

It's expensive, but this 3M low-profile velcro is awesome and what I've used for everything from cable management on my desks throughout the years to fastening bulky guitar pedals (think around size and weight of a GTX1080) to my pedalboard that went through hell. TL;DR it's good.

u/bilged · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Do you own the condo?

In additoon to upgrading the doors and windows, you could tear down the drywall and make sure the insulation is high quality. Then install new drywall by hanging it on whisper clips which separate the studs from the drywall. Then you apply anti vibration green glue and a second layer of drywall.

u/woodmister · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So you’re using just normal glue sticks? Like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW

u/CarpeDiempreecha · 1 pointr/fightsticks
u/TheRealSattious · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

What are you using to level the bed? Also where are you leveling it to? (above the bed screws are the right spot) I use a piece of receipt paper folded in half to level it.

It may be worth using a bed level gcode to assist with the human error or placement problems)

Also the stock springs may be bad these should help with the frequent bed leveling.

A glass bed may also help with adhesion with these

u/Zimaben · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Easiest and most cost-effective way is to use this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Case-Green-Glue-Noiseproofing-Compound/dp/B000SKWD8Y

If your attic doesn't have existing drywall, you'll need to hang two sheets of drywall with GreenGlue applied (as per instructions) between. Do the same with the floor and whatever door is up there. Don't forget to seal.

If you've already got drywall you'll need to strip the walls to the drywall, clean it, apply the glue, and hang another sheet (then of course refinish the walls and seal).

I would advise against the whole process though. It's going to be absurdly hot/cold in an attic. There will be sound bleed. It'll be cramped. I just don't think you're going to be happy with the results after going through the cost and effort to professionally soundproof your space.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

For gluesticks, use Elmer's washable Purple school gluesticks. I've found that 2 coats of it seems to work best. It's usually good for several uses, no need to clean and reapply after every print. When it starts showing a bit of wear, or has sat and collected dirt/dust, just wipe it off with a wet rag. The rag will also turn it purple again so you can easily tell when it's all gone.

u/DilbertPickles · 1 pointr/CR10

The best solution you can get for printing PETG without any warping is a glass bed with PVA glue. I would highly recommend getting a borosilicate (Pyrex) glass plate. Borosilicate glass has a VERY low coefficient for thermal expansion so it extremely resistant to thermal shock and the breakage that comes with it. I had the piece of glass for my CR-10 cut to size at a local glass shop as glass beds were not offered anywhere for the CR-10 at the time. However now you can go on Amazon and pay a very reasonable price for a nice glass bed. Such as this which is less than half the price that I had to pay about two years ago. Ooof!


Take your glass sheet and attach it directly on top of the metal heated bed that the CR-10 has with binder clips. It is a very simple but extremely effective way to keep the glass tightly attached without issue while also allowing a quick and simple process for removing prints and swapping print surfaces.


Then, it is time for the star of the show, the PVA glue! Now, before you get intimidated by the exotic sounding glue (like I did when I first heard about having to use it), just know that it is literally just Elmer's Disappearing Purple Gluestick. This is seriously one of the BEST tools for anyone who prints somewhat exotic or finicky materials. Uncap the glue and evenly coat the glass with a light coating and you are ready to go. When I say light, I mean just one pass over each spot, do not do more than one coat, that one coat is plenty! The best part is that it is disappearing, so when you apply the glue and it still has a bit of moisture, it is a dark purple, however once it sits for about 30 seconds on a bed that is heating up it loses its color and becomes more translucent so you can see exactly what parts of the bed are coated well and which parts you may need to touch up. When the glue has lost its color and the glass looks like it is a bit hazy or foggy then you are ready to print!


PETG can be a bit tricky to print if you are coming from PLA but it is very rewarding once you dial it in.


I would suggest that you either use a low fan setting of 25% or less (except when bridging which should be 100%) or do not use the fan at all (again unless bridging). PETG is a material that wants to stay hot and slowly cool on its own. It does not like to be hit with a fan instantly after being laid down like PLA. PETG actually fuses itself together at the layers which makes it have extremely strong layer adhesion, whereas a properly formed PETG print cannot be separated at the layer lines because of this fusing effect. (This is why you NEVER print PETG directly onto PEI as it can fuse with the PEI and tear the PEI off of the bed.)

​

I would also suggest that you run a hotter bed temperature. I personally print PETG with a bed temp between 85 and 100, depending on the brand of PETG I am using.


There is one VERY important end of print step to safely and successfully print PETG. When the print is finished, DO NOT let the bed cool to ambient temperature while the print is still attached! You MUST set your end of G Code to reduce the bed temperature to about 60% of the temperature it was while printing. This is a very important step so that your piece does not break your glass bed! This is especially important as the printed pieces get larger and have a larger contact surface with the bed. If you allow the print and glass bed to cool to ambient on their own then you are dramatically increasing the chance that the print will cool too rapidly and shrink while still attached to the glass and end up breaking the glass.


This may seem like a lot of things to do to print PETG but when you see the final result and how strong and beautiful PETG can be printed it is all well worth the effort.

​

One final tip about PETG is that it is very hygroscopic (not as bad as Nylon but still noticeable and much worse than PLA) and needs to be taken care of for it to print well. PETG needs to be stored in airtight bags with desiccant packs while it is being stored. PETG should never be left out in the open air for longer than it needs to be. If the roll is not currently supplying a print then it MUST be stored properly. If you allow your PETG to sit out and absorb the water from the air, it will print very poorly and never give good results. If you are printing PETG and can hear a crackling or hissing sound at the nozzle, then your PETG is too wet and needs to be fixed! The crackling and hissing sound that can be heard is the water that has been absorbed by the PETG being instantly boiled and turned to steam when it hits the hotend. This is most noticeable with Nylon but poorly kept PETG will also exhibit this same behavior.

​

If you have any questions or need me to clarify something please ask and I will gladly do my best to help! PETG is well worth the hassle and learning curve as the results that can be achieved with it are truly amazing.

u/BSA_DEMAX51 · 1 pointr/boardgames

I (the OP) always just use Elmer’s White Glue-All and it works perfectly. It sticks well to both the foam edges and the paper tops of the foam board, it’s super easy to wipe off if you use too much, and if you get it on yourself you can just rub it right off with friction. It’s cheap, effective, and you can find it virtually anywhere.

Also, make sure you use good foam board (again, I prefer Elmer’s 5mm) and you shouldn’t have much issue with warping.

u/kingtauntz · 1 pointr/photography

not sure where you are but if you do a basic google you can probably find someone that will make a custom sticker like that or a type of vinyl

also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-231-Wrinkle-Rubber-Transparent/dp/B000EFQ2I0 is great, its like a non stick glue where you can peel the photos off without ripping the paper once its dry

u/osograndeme · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also disagree, I print ABS all the time with a bed temp of 80C. I recommend [Elmers Glue stick] (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Jumbo-Glue-Stick-Pack/dp/B00MZ5Q5QG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) to coat the bed as it's warming up. Let each layer dry prior to the next, but you'll want a couple layers before the print starts.

u/Divergent99 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Codename Duchess What what a great contest! That's some great gifting and very generous! Here's my add ons based on the prices they are today:

  1. 2.40
  2. 2.59
  3. 4.99
  4. 4.95
  5. 5.30
  6. 5.24

    =25.47

    Thanks for the contest!
u/kris10leigh · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm gonna guess DRAGON'S BLOOD because it sounds badass.

Send me some rubber cement?

u/p44v9n · 1 pointr/Magic

I personally don't like things such as joker reveals or blurred cards, because to me it seems that the spectator would be able to tell that the card is just printed specifically, and while it may give an immediate wow factor won't really leave a sense of magic.

That said, I disagree with the idea that gaff cards aren't useful - using a double facer or double backer or something like Vogt's regeneration gimmick or Houchin's distortion gimmick can create wonders.

So I recommend you buy Blake Vogt's Split Sessions v1 and 2 which will set you back $9 and a tub of rubber cement which will be another $9 and make gaffs to fit your specific needs.

(though of course you may disagree with me completely, and buy the Blue Bike gaff deck - whatever fits your own style is best!)

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/believe0101 · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

Elmer's Rubber Cement has worked well enough for me. I like the cap's built-in brush. I glue indoors with meh ventilation.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Rubber-Cement-No-Wrinkle-Ounces/dp/B000EFQ2I0

u/dizzyvonblue · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh gosh, my little boy is starting Kindergarten, then my fiancé and I both attend college which is starting back up.

Any of these things would be great! erasers, dry erase markers, or glue sticks

My guesses for your questions. Orange is the new black for the show,maybe Hunger Games for the movie. Animal Crossing for the game, and The Road for the book.

This contest is great. Bill Hader

u/Chris5369 · 1 pointr/CR10

+1 Purple glue stick and a proper bed level.

Elmer's Glue Stick (E579), Disappearing Purple, 3 Sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZ5Q5QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wDYBb443TTSR

u/eperdu · 1 pointr/bulletjournal

There's removable/restickable glue sticks similar to what is on Post-It's.

u/ipswitch000 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

While lots of people recommend various build surfaces, I've always found glass to be the most durable and versatile surface to use. Plus you know you're getting a perfectly flat build surface, and nothing beats that shiny mirror finish bottom layer. I've been using this type of glue on a glass bed for a few years now:

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E588-Glue-Stick/dp/B00ISZZ48W/ref=zg_bs_1068996_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GSZBXX6SADSPZ2XA7RN6

as long as the bed is even close to level, pla sticks to it great at 45-50c and petg works just as well at 85-90c.

u/Curpidgeon · 1 pointr/minipainting

That's excellent! And I would not get any officially branded model glue unless you are doing Games Workshop models for which they make a specific plastic glue that kinda "welds" the plastic.

I just buy whatever cyanoacrylate (super glue usually has this) is available. This is actually a good deal on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-15187-12-Pack/dp/B000LGPD64/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536324938&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=super%2Bglue&th=1

If you find you want it thicker they have a gel too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YEN37K/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B004YEN37K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=a54d13fc-b8a1-4ce8-b285-d77489a09cf6&pf_rd_r=N1NX6E1ED9RCD79SX46V&pd_rd_wg=FwfEZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=GYhUR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=54959996-b29d-11e8-8e51-357518f34f72

Can't imagine any branded glue would be worth it otherwise. It's all just the same chemical formula except the GW stuff (which has the sad side effect of not working on anything else at all).

u/Machehz · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti
u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/LetItDie

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

It's 0.50 cents.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/Pr0sen · 1 pointr/iphone

MMOBIEL UV LOCA 50 ml unit Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive Glue Adhesive Transparent TP-N1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZKNVUM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/threetoast · 1 pointr/bicycling

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math

u/lompkins · 1 pointr/crafts

Yeah, I was going to go with putty and cardstock, but I'm just trying to think if there was some other kind of paper that would be easier to stick on. I actually just found this restickable glue stick that apparently has an adhesive similar to Post-it notes, so I may look into that! Have to see how long the adhesive lasts tho

u/PsychoSchizo · 1 pointr/Kendama

Thanks, man.

I usually use 600 grit followed by 1200 grit sandpaper to lightly shape the tip of my ken. I do this every time before I reapply the super glue. This helps remove any old glue and reduce any uneven surface.

I normally use Scotch Super Glue Liquid in Precision Applicator (http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Liquid-Precision-Applicator-AD124/dp/B004O49F7M) as my glue of choice. And apply about 3 layers. The precision tip really helps you control the amount and you can use it to slow spread the glue over the tip of your ken.

I recommend practicing on a chopstick or something with a wooden tip first to get a feel for it.

u/sonic30101 · 1 pointr/hometheater

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB4575, Black, 1 in x 10 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXK330/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_eQx0DbH235AQH