Best padlocks & hasps according to redditors
We found 714 Reddit comments discussing the best padlocks & hasps. We ranked the 320 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS
LOCK APPLICATION: For indoor and outdoor use; Cuff locks are best used for motorcycles, mopeds, street bikes and scootersEASE OF USE: Compact and lightweight cuffs easily fit in cargo areas and can be attached to fence posts and parking meters; Push-button keyless locking adds convenienceMAXIMUM SEC...
2. Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Combination Lock Protector
3. Master Lock 140D Padlock, 1 Pack, Brass
For indoor and outdoor use; Padlock is best used for backpacks, briefcases, tackle boxes, lockers and storage locksPadlock features a durable solid brass body to resist corrosion and a hardened steel shackle for cut resistance4-pin cylinder and dual locking lever mechanism provides pick and pry resi...
4. ABUS 80TI/50 Titalium Aluminum Alloy Padlock- Nano Protect Steel Shackle
Special alloy steel shackle with NANO PROTECT coatingHigh Precision 6-pin cylinderHigh level of torsion with lightness2” padlock body width; 1-3/8” shackle clearance; 3/8” Shackle diameter
5. ABUS 20/70 Diskus Stainless Steel Padlock, Keyed Different
360 Degree Protection: This stainless steel disc lock offers 360 degree all around protection, effectively combatting the most common ways of forcing it open Anti-cut plate offers added security Includes 2 keysHighest Level of Protection: This padlock features an ABUS Plus disk cylinder for the high...
6. StoPower Power Plug Lock
Prevent the use of most electrical devices by locking its plug.Protect children from dangerous electrical tools and appliances, such as saws, drills, fans, heaters, blenders, toasters, and more.Works with any standard two or three pronged power cord.Great tool for any office, school, construction si...
7. American Lock - A1106YLW Padlock Keyed, Aluminum, Yellow
Heavy duty service with a durable non-flecking finish1/4" diameter with a 1-1/2" vertical clearanceSafe for use in food processing operationsCorrosion resistant finish for tough environmentsMaster Lock Headquarters are in Oak Creek, Wisconsin, United States
8. Master Lock 1500iD Locker Lock Set Your Own Directional Combination Padlock, 1 Pack, Assorted Colors
Indoor padlock is best used as a school locker lock and gym lock, providing protection and security from theftSet your own directional combination lock for speed and easy combination recall; for combo reset instructions, refer to the user guide in the technical specifications section of this pageFas...
9. Master Lock 410RED Lockout Tagout Safety Padlock Red
Lockout tagout lock is best used for electrical lockout applications as part of a comprehensive OSHA compliant safety programZenex thermoplastic safety lock body is durable, lightweight, and non-conductive; functions in temperatures from -70 to 350 degrees FahrenheitDesigned exclusively for lockout ...
10. Master Lock 40DPF Stainless Steel Discus Padlock, 1 Pack, Silver
For indoor and outdoor use; disc lock is best used as a storage lock and for garages, sheds, and trailersLock features stainless steel construction and hardened steel shackle for increased strength and security4-pin cylinder and dual locking lever mechanism provides pick and pry resistance, shrouded...
11. Master Lock 8417D Python Keyed Cable Lock, 6 ft Long, Black
Adjustable cable lock is best used as a kayak locking cable, trail camera lock, cooler lock, and to secure other outdoor equipmentPatented cable locks with keys and holds the locking cable tight in any position (6 in. to 6 ft) for a perfect fit; Vinyl coated cable lock threads through places other c...
12. Master Lock Cable, Steel Cable With Looped Ends, 72DPF,Black,15' x 3/8" Diameter
Cable lock provides security from theftCable is best used for securing large or bulky items like bikes, grills, lawnmowers, ladders, and gatesCable is constructed from braided steel for strength and flexibility and protective vinyl coating to prevent scratchingRecommended for use with Master Lock la...
13. Stanley Hardware S828-160 CD8820 Shrouded Hardened Steel Padlock
ASTM security grade 5Full shrouded, hardened steel bodyDual stainless steel ball-bearings resist pry attacksCommercial 6 pin cylinder with anti pick pinsPatented Keyway Cover Protects Against Drilling
14. Master Lock Gun Lock, Laminated Steel Padlock with Braided Steel Cable, 1-1/8 in. Wide, 107DSPT
Gun lock is best used to secure handguns, rifles, and shotguns to prevent accidential or unauthorized useGun lock is constructed from laminated steel for strength and securityCable is made from braided steel for strength and flexibility; protective vinyl coating prevents scratching4-pin cylinder and...
15. Master Lock Cable Lock, Set Your Own Combination Bike Lock, 3 ft. Long, Assorted Colors, 4605D
LOCK APPLICATION: For indoor and outdoor use; Small cable lock is best used for recreation, backpacks, and strollers; Not recommended for use on bicyclesEASE OF USE: Cable retracts to secure items and recoils with a push-button mechanism; Resettable 3 dial combination for keyless convenienceDURABLE ...
16. Master Lock 178D Set Your Own Combination Lock, 1 Pack, Black
Indoor and outdoor padlock is best used as a school locker lock, gym lock, and gate lock, providing protection and security from theftSet your own four-digit combination lock for easy combination recall; combination change tool includedCombo lock is constructed with a solid body for strength and wea...
17. Schlage 12mm Cinch Ring Security Chain (No Lock)
Cinch Chain | 3' 3" Cinch Ring Security Chain3' 3''chain has 1/2" triple heat treated manganese steel linksThis security chain is designed for use in high risk locationsResists attacks from bolt cutters, saws, hammers and chiselsCinch ring design for more usable length and ease of use with Schrage h...
18. ABUS 64TI/40 Titalium Aluminum Alloy Padlock, Keyed Alike with Nano Protect Steel Shackle, Pack of 3
Lightweight High Security Padlock: Made of TITALIUM, a high strength aluminum alloy and a stainless steel finish, these lightweight keyed alike padlocks are ideal for travel and transportation. Includes 4 keysLight But Secure Protection: Featuring a solid lock body, paracentric keyway for increased ...
19. American Lock A5200D 1-3/4" Solid Body Steel Padlock
1-3/4" steel padlockHardened boron alloy steel shackles offer superior cut resistanceSolid Steel Body1-1/8" shackle height5-pin APTC12 cylinder
20. ABUS 75/50 All Weather Chrome Plated Brass Keyed Different Padlock - Stainless Steel Shackle
High precision reversible keyway with up to 150, 000 key differsBody made from solid brass with pearl nickel plating, offering extreme corrosion resistance2 keys per lockKeyed differentDouble bolted: both sides of the shackle are secured by bolts or balls, offers increased protection against manipul...
The Lockpicking Lawyer recommend this for a good value lock. It isn't pick proof but it is great if you're on a budget. It is gonna provide some difficult to physical and picking attacks. Its good for locking up your shed and such things.
Here are the locks you would used to lock up something very valuable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6iMmCSayBQ
This is an excellent bike lock.
Here's a seriously skilled locksmith's review of it.
Spoil yourself with this - http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8417D-Adjustable-Locking/dp/B000XTPNZK/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371731874&amp;sr=8-30&amp;keywords=master+lock
and lock your closet up and keep the key on you. Keep all valuables in there.
First off familiarize yourself with the four rules of firearm safety
>Treat all guns as if they are loaded.
>Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy.
>Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on the target.
>Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.
sounds like a safe is out of the question, if so you can pick these up a couple of gunvault breech lock kits or these.
second you can pick up a universal gun cleaning kit, hoppes no. 9 cleaning solvent, and cleaning patches online or at your local Walmart.
Looks like the sales of these are going to go way up!
Those slow down opportunity thieves, some one like a roommate could cut through one in a few minutes with an exacto knife. I drilled 2 halfinch holes in tge bottom of the case and put a large masterlock cable lock through them.
/u/LockPickingLawyer/ applies the force in a similar way as the hammer does. The wrenches apply the force to the shackle while the hammer applies it to the lock body but they target the same point - where the cutout in the shackle meets the locking lug.
The wrench attack fails if you've got a long shackle though and when it's attached to something that interferes with your ability to place the wrench in the correct position at the top of the shackle. A hammer (or pry-bar) attack only needs the ability to get in-between the shackle and pull away from what it is attached to.
The point is either way that other styles aren't as susceptible because the forces can't be applied to that section of the lock.
Tell anon he should get a ice cream lock
Chassis lock: This lock replaces the thumb screws making it harder for someone to open the side panel. It comes 1 per pack, so buy 4 if you can.
Padlock + [Security Cable](http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-72DPF-Braided-Diameter/dp/B000BD8IQ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408303692&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=security+cable) + Drill: This depends on the case. I have the r4 and was able to drill a hole in the back. I tied my PC to my bed frame. Here's what mine look like on a R4
Lastly a Kensington lock for the monitor.
Here you go.
I have one of these in my closet, and I lock it with one of these speed locks. That way I don't need to look for a key or fumble with a combination lock in the middle of the night. Secure, but easy to do just by touch.
Alright, so this is risky -recommending these picks with the admin here, but I've got my reasons.
This set right here was my first lock picking set. It has everything you need to attack low security locks, but you do need to put some work into them with some sandpaper. Here is my 30 minute video review. I think I cover everything in this video if you feel like dedicating your time.
If you have more money in the budget, Southord sells a decent set for about $25 US. Link
Also, I really love Sparrows stuff. They're great for higher security locks and their tools are very presentable to any prying eyes. Plus, they require much less finishing. Here are a few good beginner kits:
BTW, here's a copy-pasta that I made if you live in the US and want to order from Sparrows:
To get the most bang out of your buck, you want to spend more than $24.72 (total). This is because the Canadian currency's value is less than the US currency's value. Math below.
Break-even point where $CAD = $USD for Sparrows Lock Picks:
Conversion rate: $1 CAD ~ $0.78 USD
Shipping rate: $6.99 CAD
0.78(x + 6.99) = x
0.78x + (0.78)(6.99) = x
(0.78)(6.99) = 0.22x
(0.78)(6.99)/0.22 = x
x ~ $24.72 CAD and USD.
Of course, you could always PM me, and I could put together a list of stuff to fit your budget.
Locks to pick
Feel free to ask me anything!
Put locks on the plugs so she can't use them.
They make ice cream locks. My husband got me one while we were renting from my dad. Yes my 56 yo father would steal my ice cream.
I use this for lockers and this for my storage unit.
Careful, that listing is only for ONE lock (BLUE). American Locks are hard to find on Amazon.ca. Amazon.com (US) has them for $10 each and ships to Canada (or if near the border, find a friend to ship to and pick up):
My V-Strom came with one. I used it until I lost it. Then I started using a gun lock, which works much better--I can put the lock around the chinbar and part of the bike.
...though I have a top box so the lock is easy to carry.
This is the best I've found. It folds into a small enough package to put on the hip of your pants.
It can't be cut with cable Cutters due to the material in shape.
The cuff parts are wrapped in rubber so they don't scratch your onewheel.
May I suggest plug locks?
I’m from Denmark, and I had the same problem, and ended up buying this:
Master Lock Safety M/Lock Lockout Padlock-RED 410RED, One-Size https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00192092C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xXiQDbXHZKZFA
Since I couldn’t find it anywhere cheaper, in the EU!
Hope this helps! :)
I wonder if those are harder to break then a u-lock.
They are coated with rubber so no scratch and intimidating as they look like cuffs. Attach them to your frame and bike seat support for easy carry.
If I can see the bike and I'm not worried about someone walking by to steal the helmet, I'll leave it on the bike. If I'm by myself and I'll have space to put the helmet on an empty chair or on a bigger table, I'll bring it inside. Otherwise I'll lock it up.
I used a gun lock like this for a while: https://www.amazon.com/FSDC-California-approved-Keyed-Cable-Lock/dp/B010IBDS04
Then I upgraded to this which has the advantage of being able to lock up my jacket as well: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8417D-Python-Keyed/dp/B000XTPNZK
I highly recommend the Python lock. It's not super high security, but it packs up really small and it's super easy to use.
I have used the Master Lock 1500iD for a couple of years. It's very easy to use. It's a directional combination lock.
> Have a spare kit in your car at all times.
^^ This is important. Part of my routine is stopping at the gym on the way home from work. Can't go home 'till I hit the gym, that's my rule. Doesn't matter whether I hit the weights hard for an hour, or just walk on a treadmill for 20 minutes.
Exactly what's in your kit isn't so important, as long as it includes everything you'll need when you're at the gym. Here's mine:
I like this combination lock because I'll never forget the combo:
put a password on the computer. Or you could try these. I have never used them. Power Cable Locks
I do not know. You should be able to look up the hairdryer using any information on it. The holes can also be used to lock the plug to prevent it from being plugged in, usually for faulty equipment or if it is being worked on) Here is a lock
I've got decent picks and I'm decent at picking and these still slow me down.
Call CPS on them.
Report the neighbors kids are always unsupervised and explain how they break into your yard and throw rocks at your house.
Locking all your gates is a necessity here. I suggest getting a simple combo lock so you can quickly open without a key.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-178D-Set-Your-Own-Combination/dp/B0009V1WMA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469887015&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=combo+lock
If you want to get fancier and can install a deadbolt on your gates then this is awesome: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O4OV318/ref=twister_B00QQ8KLK4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get a camera for your outside, backyard, gates, and front. This way you can record them trespassing and you can record them stealing your packages. Cops will have to act with video.
Definitely put up no trespassing signs.
Something I've never tried but have heard often is to bring a bike lock or cable lock and string it through your helmet and through your jacket arms. Then just secure it to the handle bars.
Better than nothing.
I think the main deterrent is always making breaking into your boat more trouble than it'll be worth. Make sure everything is stowed away when you're not on board, don't leave things laying around in plain sight for anyone to eye up. If you store anything easy to sell (like propane tanks or diesel jerry cans) then do your best to either lock them away, or to thoroughly tie them up. Get various lengths of looped steel cable and some heavy duty locks to secure anything else you might keep on deck (like kayaks or surf boards). Do the same with your dinghy outboard, and even your dinghy when you're on shore. Make sure you hoist and visibly lock your dinghy every night.
Fitting security screens on your hatches and companionway makes a big difference too, since it's pretty easy to pop a hatch with a crow bar. When you're away, pull your covers/curtains so no one can peek in and have a look at what might be worth stealing.
You can get some wireless motion sensors and set them up at various places around the boat. They'll flood the area with light and sound alarms so that's also a pretty effective method of startling someone off. There are also personal alarms which you can activate yourself if you're on board while someone tries to break in. A good ol' air horn will also do the trick. I've got a couple friends who have a Christmas ornament made of maybe 10 jingle bells tied to the back of their companion-way latch so that if anyone fiddles with it, you can hear.
I just bought 4 of these on amazon
Master Lock 140D Solid Brass Keyed Different Padlock with 1-9/16-Inch Wide Body, 1/4-Inch Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x.SVBb77BTH8P
Are these similar to the 140. Or something completely different
I also forgot. Locks!
Three locks to bring (remember this is to discourage, and should not be considered true security, but it does help)
Master Lock 4688D TSA Accepted Cable Luggage Lock
The TSA lock. Works great to lock your bag, or when you're in a hosel with really small lock eyelets when the bigger lock wont work.
Sesamee KCR0436 Chrome Plated Marine Padlock or Master Lock 178D Set-Your-Own Combination Padlock
I personally use the Sesamee because it's a lot stronger and harder to bypass (the Master Lock has a well know bypass technique) but if you're on a budget either will work.
Bosvision Ultra-Secure 4-digit Combination Lock with 3 Feet Retractable Cable
Ignore the title, this is not "Ultra-Secure" but it is nice to use to tether your bag to a physical object so it doesn't walk away on you. I would do this on the train so I could fall asleep not having to worry that someone could just grab my bag and run. Could they cut it? Absolutely. But it stops the people who are just looking for the opportunity to grab something and run.
I work out at a pool. I generally just toss my bag on the bleachers and swim. Anyone could walk out with my keys, phone, everything. They just... don't.
That said I do know a thing or two about locks due to my profession. And locks... only keep honest people honest. This is the only kind of lock I've ever met that I couldn't shim. And I did eventually get it apart - though not without some time, effort and specialized tools. Also I was trying to save the lock itself. If I'd just been willing to use a bolt cutter I'd get through it in ten seconds.
But you don't have to run faster than the bear, you just have to run faster than your friend. If your locker isn't the easiest to hit, they'll likely hit someone else's.
Don't worry, Ben & Jerry have got you covered
From what I can tell that looks like it would only have regular pins in it, you could try this master "practice" lock http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-410RED-Different-Lockout/dp/B00192092C/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41H6icC6SRL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR144%2C160_&amp;refRID=0Z7VXWRM2GXGV0VF6WY7 its got mostly spool pins witch is good for practice
At 3 miles, you could walk that in 45 minutes, so 15-30 minutes to ride each way depending on the hill. Good that you are planning it now, instead of waiting till later. I think the first thing you need is a feasible route. Perhaps you already do, but it is more pleasant to ride without a car behind one. So perhaps you can ride much of it on roads that are less busy and likely have a lower speed limit. Google Maps has a bicycle option so you could see what that suggests. When you get your bike (or if you can borrow one), ride the route early on a weekend morning. Check that there is someplace to lock the bike at/near the school, because you need to securely lock it. The lock deters a thief by making it more difficult, not impossible to take. The more expensive the bike looks, the more formidable the lock should look. If the front wheel has a quick-release skewer, you should secure it so something like or this
I strongly recommend a helmet. They all meet the same standards, so I buy less expensive.
There are lights that help make you visible and those that help you see the road as examples, but not recommendations.
You've thought about rain for your backpack, but you may want to consider for you too, because being soaking wet at school is no fun, rain jacket, rain pants and fenders. I have a pair of these which might be a good choice if you can carry other shoes to wear in school. Even without rain, it will seem colder when you are going downhill in the morning, so I use running gloves (full finger) some winter mornings. You can bundle up toasty warm for the mornings because you don't have to pedal that much, and then carry some of your clothes instead of wearing when you ride home, so I recommend a rack and a couple of bungee cords to help with that.
Since it is a walk-able distance, you should probably leave the water bottle, multi-tool, patch kit and pump at home on school days just to keep it simple and keep from losing those things. It probably makes sense to keep it minimal and cheap while starting out like this. If you get a floor pump with a gauge, you can use it to check the pressure once or twice a week and then learn how to feel the tires to see if they are firm enough. I've not found a mini-pump with a gauge that is universally regarded as reliable, so the pump I take with me has no gauge.
For your commute to school you shouldn't need to fuss with padded biking shorts or spandex shirts or even fingerless gloves. I rode quite a bit when I was your age without any of those. If you are looking at longer rides, then you might want to try some of those (no underwear under the biking shorts) to reduce chafing against the seat and wind resistance from floppy clothing.
And require all ice cream be locked with one of these
The American 5200 and the Mako 427 are blue, cheapish, and generally on amazon in the US.
Uplug power cable and bring it with you. Buy a cable lock such as this one. https://www.amazon.com/Roride-RRKA-StoPower-Power-Plug/dp/B0014ZXWCS?th=1&amp;psc=1
Are these any good?
> Mechanical locks cannot have customizable number of back and forth turns.
Just gonna leave that here: http://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/1500iD
> Users can create their own easy to remember, resettable combination consisting of any number of movements in any sequence.
Master 410 $9
I use this stupid hard chain covered in an old mountain bike tube with a [fancy titanium alloy lock] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G7P3FYA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). It's much more bang for your buck than a krytonite or some other ludicrously expensive "bike chain".
It's kinda overkill really but I was super nervous about theft when I moved into the city.
Wow that sucks. To help deter that from happening again at the gym get a disk lock they are more difficult to cut with bolt cutters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SQKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416160152&amp;sr=8-1
Today I ordered a couple locks from Amazon that are pretty cheap. The Abus 80TI/50 (green belt) is $13.11 right now.
I also ordered an American 1106 (blue belt) for $9.87
I wanted to get a few locks that are progressively harder to practice on and learn more about security pins, found good prices on these and couldn't pass them up.
I like this one because you don't need to carry a key, and you can perform the combination easily even in the most delirious of post-workout fugue states.
This is exactly what I would recommend as well. Although if you can grab a cutaway lock over an acrylic, I think they’re a bit better. But you’ll soon be done with both so it’s probably a moot point. Then I’d go MasterLock #3 and then into MasterLock 140, both are pretty available either online or in stores.
MasterLock #3 are $6 on Amazon.
MasterLock 140 are $7 on Amazon.
Definitely is sketchy. When I use to workout there I got myself one of the Round Padlock that’s used for storage lockers. Lol. Not sure if Crunch or GoodLife is any better in Jackson?
Put through jacket sleeve, helmet, handlebars, and lock it.
I don't know, just a thought. Defeats the stealing shit but not the destroying shit part.
No. That is not the right one, but it is a variant. The lock you have linked is the master keyed version. You want this one:
Here it is on Amazon.
Get this chain https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-12mm-Noose-Security-Chain/dp/B00X6E0NO0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
Use this lock https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S828-160-Shrouded-Hardened/dp/B001V5IYT2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6
Not OP, but a fellow XR owner. My solution was to hide away a kill switch. This combined with a cable and lock, and have never had a problem in the City. You can probably go without lock and chain in a small town, but I don't want someone picking up my bike and tossing it in their truck. Better safe than sorry
I use one of these cable locks. It's small enough to fit in my tankbag and on the rare occasion I'm not confident in just leaving stuff laying, will run it through a jacket sleeve, helmet D-ring, and solid part of the bike. The one I have is several years old so it wasn't available in disco colors.
You could also get an inexpensive bike cable lock that's a bit more substantial but not as easy to carry.
Yes, if someone wants your gear they can cut the cable if they brought such tools along for the task. But the only thing I've ever had taken from my bike was a Winston Rodeo Award denim jacket on loan from my brother that I left in a saddlebag that someone took back in 74 while parked in my apartment in Dallas.
Here you go: Masterlock Street Cuffs
Uncle Bob's used to do a name your price for the first month where you can literally pay a penny for the first month. Public Storage has a $1 special for the first month. In both cases after the first month you pay the "normal" rate. At Public storage there is a one time Administration fee (I think $15) and I am pretty sure Uncle Bob's does the same.
The normal monthly fee can vary widely within the same company, this is do to location. Wanna store at the Public Storage on 6th street? That's gonna cost ya so shop around in terms of location. The flip side of that is some of the cheapest rates are in the worst part of town and get broken into more frequently than the nicer more expensive areas of town. The people that work there will try to sell you insurance (optional but if you decline it you have to sign a waiver stating if your stuff is damaged or stolen you won't sue) and a lock like this. You can bring your own lock if you have one or buy one somewhere else but it has to be the type of lock in the link. This is for your benefit as these type of locks are pretty easy to cut and get your shit stolen.
My wife is a manager at Public Storage and an ex-manager at Uncle Bob's. She told me a funny story about working at Uncle Bob's when they were running the name your own price. Some guy walks in and asks how much a 5x10 was she quotes him the regular price and explains the special. He named his price as the regular going rate. She just wrote up the paperwork and told him to sign on the line.
Or you could buy a pair of these...
Sounds awful. DH had a friend over and he helped himself to my kitchen with out asking if the pregnant lady had plans for this food.
If he isn't leaving soon, how about an Ice cream lock?
I started picking dimple locks with an ABUS 751B/50. It was a great lock on which to learn dimples. Amazon link
I used these locks when I owned my motorcycle. I believe they have a shorter version for bicycles. They're big and bulky but Master Lock has an anti-theft guarantee that they will reimburse you X amount of money if someone does actually cut/break the lock and steal your bike.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-20-70-KD-Stainless/dp/B009S5Y6ZS Tough little fucker and would probably be easier to go through the case than the lock.
That sucks man. This is why I keep mine chained up under my carport with this set up:
Oxford OF38 Boss Disc Lock with Double Locking System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036YYH6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b4X1CbGDNYTV8
Schlage 12mm Noose Security Chain (No Lock) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6E0NO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A5X1Cb4WJFAS0
I know that it's worked at least once, there's a little cut mark where I assume some asshole broke his harbor freight bolt cutters.
Master Lock Street Cuffs
1.5" but very high quality compared with master lock. Also not combo, but at least key'd alike. I bought these to lock ammo cans and they work ok on the 30 cal ones.
-travel power strip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4YTHWG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
-tsa luggage locks
-retractable cable lock (for hostel locker and securing your bag on train racks, etc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BD69G0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_meWOBbKBCGDYM
-cheap flip flops for hostel showers
-sleeping bag liner
-hanging toiletry bag (hard to find counter real estate)
-travel utensil (handy for picnics, i know it’ll be december so maybe indoor picnics..)
-collapsible water bottle
-student id if you have one (museum discounts, etc.)
-keychain flashlight (so you don’t wake up your roomies)
-upload important docs to google drive.. passport, reservations, tickets, front and back of credit cards
-travel insurance? world nomads is great
-downy wrinkle spray is king
-i constantly forget regular headphones for flights cause i use my bluetooth ones normally
-definitely compression packing cubes
-a credit card with no travel fees :)
Pick the American 1100 for a blue belt. Amazon has it in yellow for $9.68. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_evtJzb30VMHB0
Holy shit, Ben & Jerry's actually has one.
Yes but it would be so cliched to use it as expected. I would pair the pirate map with this lock
That makes no sense - they come in original packaging, and have the serrated key pins, the fully serrated driver pins, and spools. The bitting however is just plain terrible. Not sure how it would be counterfeit.
Edit: American Lock A1106YLW Padlock Keyed, Aluminum, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_qoMQAbGW14XCR here is the link to the Amazon purchase. If they're selling counterfeits, we have a problem.
If he didn't have much trouble with the Abus, maybe try one of these for the next one?
This was me after like 2 days with a cheap lock pick set from amazon.
Got the Master Lock from a local grocery store for $8...I would suggest gettin a different lock if you want to keep your things lol
It really depends on your price range but I wouldn't go any cheaper than this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJjH-D0XB2c will give you something to think about, 2 guys just grabbed it right off his porch. a Camera will just give you a good shot of people you wont recognize.
....at least try slow them down with a Cable lock:
I'll second the American 1100, but add the Abus 80ti/50 to that list -- good tolerance, six pins with a serrated, four spools, and a T-pin, and they're only ~$12. Officially they're green belt locks, but I think they hold their own against a number of the blue belt locks.
In addition to the Master 410 LOTO, you also might consider looking for a PacLock PL410-Pro (~$16), which is basically a 7-pin version with better tolerances. They're available online, but some Home Depots are starting to stock them.
Ace Hardware stores typically carry some decent 1.5" brass padlocks made for them by Brinks -- they're generally cheap and are loaded with spools. Sometimes you can even find an A527, which is a clone of the American Lock 700.
For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.
The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.
Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.
Get a couple of these, and put them inside your locker. Makes finding things in the middle of the night much easier. I also had one in my rack for reading with, the normal rack light was just too bright.
Doubling up on curtians is nice, but people will probably steal them at some point. A much safer plan is to take the existing curtians, take them to a tailor out in town, and have them add a layer or two of cloth. After that, put them back in your rack, and put a small screw in the track that they hang from. With that $0.05 piece of hardware, your curtians are safe from all but the most determined of berthing thieves.
Also, these padlocks were phenomenal. They're opened by sliding the button up, down, left, or right. No fumbling with keys or squinting at combinations in the dark. I had mine set to a quick up-down, and could have my locker open and be halfway dressed by the time my neighbor was spinning his padlock to the 3rd number.
Edit: One last thing, get a small carabiner to hang your loofah or shower sponge from your towel bar. Keeping it in your locker or stuffing it at the foot of your rack is just begging for mildew.
If one did this, one might consider a padlock such as this, as it is harder to cut with bolt cutters.
Again, not that anyone here would recommend such conduct.
Always have to worry about it unless you can hide it in a garage, and even then, people can see you driving it and parking it inside. There is no way to prevent a theft, just convince the casual theives to leave it alone.
A lot of sling owners use https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ and cut the wheel all the way to one side before putting them on.
Try covering it to hide it at a minimum.
Putting a keyless start like https://allthingsslingshot.com/products/keyless-ignition-for-the-polaris-slingshot to dissuade
Maybe a motion alarm with GPS as well?
I'm pretty rural and where I park mine can't be seen, plus I have a large dog that is very friendly but looks frightening, so I haven't put an alarm on mine.
-edit- fixed link
Steel braided security cable with loops at both ends crimped. Run through trigger guard and through an eye bolt attacked to a wall stud.
Should cost about 30 dollars all up.
Seems I was about on the money.
That Pelican that leftnose linked is a much nicer case, but I picked this one up when it was on sale for $60. It protected my gun well on the few flights its been on.
I also used these locks with it. 3 locks that can all open with the same key.
Thanks. Yes, tension was critical. It’s either a Tron or Atilla. I don’t remember which. I have a few of both. The next lock is this monster. He’s sitting on my bench now. Stanley
I would suggest Abus padlocks since they’re harder to defeat than most padlocks and if you’re flying one of these.
I bought an anti-theft motorcycle alarm, it's triggered by any vibration or movement. I lock it up with some heavy duty chain and an "impenetrable" lock. I live in Chicago and it's worked pretty well for me thus far.
Anti-Theft alarm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFBV7TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heavy Duty Chain: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMC8BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Steel Padlock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5IYT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bolt cutters, ramset gun, hydraulic cutters, angle grinder, etc will get any lock off in seconds. At the same time, better locks are better; a good lock might hold for 2 minutes instead of literally 5 seconds
In order from my progression:
Now it's a fairly large jump from brinks to abus so I recommend getting a few more brinks and masters first. Just get a different model with "higher" security every time until you think you are up for it.
I pulled these links off amazon for pictures and whatnot, I'm sure you can get a better deal anywhere so do some searching before you buy.
Edit: Forgot to mention the helpful sidebar!
that doesn't seem right.
64ti/50 - 2 inch body 5/16 shackle 5 pin
64TI/40 - 1.5 inch body 1/4 shackle 5 pins
64TI/30 1.25 body 3/16 shackle 4 pins
only thing different is second number. The second number seems to deal with both the body and the shackle. And even though the first number is the same for all 3, the first two has 5 pins and the last one has 4 pins. Nothing on the types of pin in description
If I where you I'd try out a master lock 140 to step it up a bit. In comparison to the #3 they feel a lot better and give you better response in my opinion. Master 140
Easy solution : buy a power bar with a timer, plug the router in it, put that in a metal locking box.
Timer power bar
Metal lock box
Reminds me of this fine product:
Most cases with a lock have minimal protection anyway. I use a thick cable and thread it through my jacket and pants and through my tail bag and lock with a master lock for protection at my school. Would take a lot of effort to steal any gear from me.
Naw, that’s a noose chain. It allows for a wider variety of locking situations.
Get one with a key, they're a lot harder to crack.
Something like this
Don't get one with a thin wire.
Get away from U locks
If you come back to the same place every night then invest in a kryptonite chain, vs a U lock. Even with a angle grinder it is much harder to find a static place to cut on these chains, vs a U lock.
I actually stopped using U locks entirely, after seeing how easy it is to pop them. Thieves in cities are experts at just using leverage to pop them in seconds. It is much heavier to lug the chan but small price to pay for security.
I also use this for my front wheel if I am planning on leaving my bike for a extended period
So far my overkill locking method has prevented anyone from even attempting to mess with my bike.
Running 1/4" shackle. I recommend getting 1" - 1.5" shackle length. Bought American Lock from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A1106YLW-Padlock-Aluminum/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510819926&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=american+lock
Had them all re-keyed so I just need 1 key so I didn't need to carry multiple keys to open one case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XTPNZK/ wrap it around, pull it snug, bam, switch is locked to the dock.
I'm considering this lock for the same purpose.
I'll be the lookout while you sneak them through the back stairwell.
Or on second thought...
Someone climbing on top of a truck to cut a cable lock is a bit more suspicious than one messing around with of a thousand bikes in a bike rack.
Also, gun cable locks typically have hardened steel bodies that aren't exactly bike lock material.
Maybe you should invest in one of these.
They won't stop your brother from being a brat, but you can rest assured your ice cream will be safe.
They make ice cream locks for pints!!
I usually put it by my feet because I'm paranoid and afraid someone might take it, especially when traveling. I also prefer to do this so I won't forget about it.
For larger bags, I've also purchased cable locks on Amazon that will allow me to attach my bag to the railing. Note that it's not really super sturdy, it's really more of a deterrent.
This is what I got - https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Combination-Assorted-4605D/dp/B000BD69G0
I don't use one (or any lock) but if I did I'd be looking at one of these:
The Master Lock 8290DPS 22-inch 9-Link Street Cuffs Lock. I put it around the front truck and post when making quick stops at the store https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_SvXOGkxpKcSsR
I have one like this that I keep in my pack:
It's not much, but it prevents the quick "grab and run" kind of deal. It's more likely someone will see that and move on to the next bike.
Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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Is this the one?
American Lock A5200D 1-3/4" Solid Body Steel Padlock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tI7wCbPKCBQ0H
I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:
50mm w/ shackle guard
60mm w/ shackle guard
60mm fat padlock
That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).
That's curious. I have never purchased one of those.
I use about 4 of these in rotation.
Here you go!
Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Lock
First and foremost no chain is cut proof nor is any lock un-pickable. With that being said what you're really shooting for is simply deterrence. Consider where you'll be parking it a majority of the time, and any place you consider to travel to. Ideally, at any location you'd have a secure anchor point. Any such place that'll allow you to loop a chain around or through will work.
When I have it parked outside during the day I use this particular chain to secure it around a fire escape. I use the smaller version to travel with if I know I have a small enough anchor point at my destination. As others have said I'll occasionally simply wrap it through my rear tire in a pinch but it's really a horrible idea. Two people can easily throw it right in the back of a truck if you've "locked" it up this way.
I like those "cinch" type chains as you get a lot more usable length out of them. I've drilled a ~2.xx" hole in my rear plastic and installed a grommet to pass the chain through, locking my frame. (See SpoonKiller's post here to see it in detail.)
As far as locks go there's a million options to choose from. I'm not really that well versed on them so I don't think I'm the best resource. I'd simply look for a lock with a shielded and hardened shackle and some common security features implemented in the core. Here's a great article on the subject. Take a look at #4 on page 4 where it discusses different pins and their effects on pick attempts if you want greater detail.
I've heard multiple people speak to the effectiveness of the stock steering column lock so I always lock that as well. I also used a cover when I had it parked outside which is another low-cost/effective deterrent.
Also, don't take the devices, take the chargers and they have to earn them back by being kind to the little ones for three days in a row. Since he sneaks them I'd take them home or get little locks to put through the plugs.
Happened to me in Capreol last year. My Wifes Kayak. We had photos of it and plastered it all over facebook and i believe i posted it here as well. We ended up getting it back because we tracked it down ourselves and turned the heat up. Local law enforcement was a joke when it came to it. It was taken by some rather unsavoury people that have their hands in MANY dealings, which we reported to LEO's and they seemed to not give a shit. When we got it back, it was found in the bushed no more then 200m from their back yard....
As for ways to lock it up a simple cable lock should do. It can be put through the drain hole. Not fool proof, but still an inconvenience to anyone trying to steal it.
Here's a video he made in 2017.
Here's a lock he recommended for value/security on Twitter.
This is what I use. Should be pretty resistant to brute force with the chrome plated steel jacket and hardened steel shackle, apparently somewhat challenging to pick, and the brass nickel plated body means it should be adequately corrosion resistant. Leaves a bit more space than is ideal when paired with a 1/2 inch chain, but should be enough of a tight fit to make it a pain to get to the shackle.
There's also this which is probably more susceptible to brute force with the exposed shackle, but should be more weather resistant, and is a fair bit lighter and cheaper.
(Both of these were recommended to me by the people over at the /r/lockpicking discord. I don't know much about locks, but they're both apparently good budget options with pretty good security.)
Is that the same as the 140D?
Master Lock 140D Solid Brass Keyed Different Padlock with 1-9/16-Inch Wide Body, 7/8-Inch Shackle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004SQL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iHy7CbTYN3PPZ
You can get some good (for practise) Masterlocks on Amazon for pretty cheap. Apparently the safety locks are really good for practise as they have some security pins in them.
Try these out
Alright, I don't know what conditions or environments the lock is gonna be in, but here's my two suggestions.
The American is a bit harder to pick, but slightly less physically strong as it lacks the shackle guard. It is however made out of solid steel.
Abus Titalium 80Ti/50. 12 Bucks on Amazon.
Or if you want really good one in that range, Abus has their big bad boy 90/50 Titalium for like 48 bucks on Amazon.
My dad first would hide the controllers, later he used a plug lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZXWCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPUQBbVMRWQTV and lastly he would cut the power cord in half or controller cord.
I win the award for worst dad.
It says "masterlock 140" for one of the first recommendations. Is that the same as the 140D?
The [Masterlock street cuff locks](Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtUPBbV592QP5) are pretty damn good. But, if someone really wants to steal your stuff they will come prepared with a grinder, sawzall, bolt cutters, plasma torch, etc.
Masterlocks are shit if you want to actually secure something. Want to make something mildly inconvenient to open? Use a masterlock. That's what I put on my fence gate so the kids don't open it and let the dogs out. I'm not concerned about security because ffs it's a 4 foot fence, anyone can just climb over it.
But my storage unit that has a lot of valuable shit in it? It has one of these
Have you considered one of these? My coworker has a $2000+ bike and he locks it up with something similar. Im not sure the exact model of his lock. I was wondering if it was more or less secure than a u lock.
If you are in the US Amazon has a few of the 75/50 marine (plated) used as low as 13.75 - just go to the listing, follow the link for "new and used as low as (ignore the price) - therr will be several used offers and right now that lock has another 20% off so the one at $17 is really $13.75
ABUS 75/50 All Weather Chrome Plated Brass Keyed Different Padlock - Stainless Steel Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S5Y91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qZ4JDb5YW8N2K
Sorry for the bad new :(
After my experience with the smaller version I went and picked up the 60mm and lol, it is a mammoth! The full brass version is cheaper than the plated brass version and that should be the full size core that you would find in a Euro lock format.
If someone really wants to get in, they will. Lockers don’t hold big enough shackles for you to have much physical resistance, and someone could just break the cheap locker door or hinges regardless.
That being said, I agree with u/stab_in_the_eye. American 1100s are light, decently strong, impressively cheap, and will take some time and decent skill to pick (not astroturfing). They can be bought here, and this color (Master Lock Influence, priced by color) is currently on sale for some reason.
EDIT: Also, if you don’t think the longer shackle on the 1106 will fit, this one has a shorter shackle, but is (Master Lock!) priced... higher?
I like the Abus padlocks. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-40-3-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W
Buy a pelican case. Just put up the damn $50 for a case large enough for your gun and a couple other items, and then get high quality lock (NOT MASTER LOCK) like an Abus Titalium (virtually unpickable).
It makes flying with a gun so much better. You only need the one lock on the smaller Pelicans.
Factory gun cases are garbage, a Pelican with a dessicant packet in it will keep your gun totally sealed from the elements.
You're in those two for under $50 total.
This off amazon. Seems like it should be sufficient
You could get the Breville and get one of these to lock out the untrained.
I would see if this kind of lock would fit and use it. I'd like to see someone cleanly cut that. I may actually switch my lock to this.
These are pretty sweet and not that easy to get through unless you bring some serious tools!
If you felt pretty comfortable with that Orange Belt Abus, maybe you should try a $12 green belt: Abus Titalium 80Ti. I have a couple of these and they are enjoyable picks.
Kinda depends on your goals though. I feel like I've been recommending this way too much lately, but a Sparrows Revolver would probably be an incredible training lock right now for getting incrementally better at security pins. If you master the Revolver with a difficult pin load out, it would be easy to graduate to the blue American 1100s.
80TI is a fun, reasonably tough pick.
410 LOTO can be a tough one too, don’t turn it into a rattle toy!
I really like recommending the Paclock 90A for Green: good quality, variety of security pins, their President is on here and a cool guy, but best of all it sets you up nicely to pick an American 1100 (de facto standard for Blue belt). It’s also easy to gut, and can be found on Amazon.
My favorite was the Abus 75IB/50. It’s a fun pick, a lot of folk’s first dimple (it was mine), it’s affordable, and available on Amazon. It’s where I discovered my love for dimples, YMMV.
The Stanley S828-160 is relatively inexpensive, easy to find, and should be plenty if your main concern is bolt cutters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYT2
Here's a link to a green one for $12.16 USD 😁
And abus 80ti/50, also green belt, for $12.20 USD
It's a bike lock you know.. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-Inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ
Buy an ammo canister
Then get a cord lock/gun lock. Feed trough the hole on the clamp and the little handle thing or drill hole in top and side. Keep key for lock safe.
Maybe something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Roride-RRKA-StoPower-Power-Plug/dp/B0014ZXWCS
I was going to invent them if they didn't exist. I wonder why they don't market them to parents for this exact purpose. Also, doesn't matter how mad I am, 10-15 bucks is a lot to pay to punish your kid.
Agreed on the full charge before riding it which will almost certainly take 6+ hours depending how much charge it has when it arrives.
The throttle has a variety of settings that make it work properly with the scooter (e.g. it knows how to properly assess distance ridden and battery power and so on). My Zero 10x came with a sheet spelling it out. As it happened, RevRides, who I bought it from, had already made the settings but something to check (once set correctly you never want to mess with them).
There are also a few user changeable settings for the ride you want such as how strong the regen braking is, how much torque it'll give on acceleration, miles or kilometer display and so on. I went with middle-of-the-road settings myself but this is all a matter of user preference so know they are there and fiddle with them till you get it all as you want. NOTE: I was encouraged to leave auto-pilot off till I became experienced with the scooter which I did.
Know that this is lightyears more powerful than the Lime scooter. Give it some respect when you first start riding. Leave it in Mode 1 (of three) "low" speed setting, only one motor active, Eco on and have a whirl. You'll get used to it quickly but the torque and acceleration can be surprising. Top speed too once you engage higher speed modes.
Also, and maybe this was just mine, but I find the brakes to be really touchy. Like they grab pretty hard even with a light touch which wants to throw me forward. No accidents or anything but at 60 miles ridden the brakes are still touchy on mine and a bit uncomfortable (read jerky when first applied). Just something to watch out for till you get used to it. I hope it is just a matter of breaking them in some more and/or getting more used to modulating them properly. That or perhaps my local bike shop can lighten them up a bit (bicycle brakes so they are familiar with them).
I have found no reason to carry a charger with me. These charge up pretty slowly so charging on the go won't get you much compared to some smaller scooters. Leave a charger at the office and one at home and you should be fine. It has a pretty long range so should be good for most jaunts on a single charge. Of course YMMV depending on your needs and use.
As for locking it up realize you are parking $1500 on the street and this will catch people's eyes. Cable locks are close to worthless (they can be gotten through with a hand-held, concealable tool in seconds). After much looking and asking I settled on Master Lock Cuffs. I clamp one end to the stem, below the control cables and the other to the bike rack. It will stop anyone unless they go at it with an angle grinder (which some might but not likely in public during the day). I am getting a handlebar bag where I will carry it but till then they are fine in my backpack (a little heavy but no biggie). Nothing is perfect but these are pretty good.
Heard good things about these as well. If someone really wants your shit, and comes prepared, they’re going to get it. Grinder/sawzall would easily defeat damn near anything.
Thanks! I'll look into BikeLink!
Yes, it's both the weight and the dimensions. The Dart has a really spacious deck. Nice for riding, a bit awkward for maneuvering. I hear ewheels is coming out with trolley wheels soon. That may help a bit, but I still think it's too large to take in most places. It's fine for stairs at home --> to work, though. Certainly not something I'll be stashing under the table at a restaurant like I did with the Glion.
Wheels are mostly covered, so locking through them is out with any serious lock. I got StreetCuffs based on somebody's recommendation here, and I think they'll work out well enough. I think the best place to lock will be around the little neck between the deck and the actual pole, right around where the foot pedal to fold is. If I fold it up, it would be impossible to even unfold the thing with the cuffs on. A U-Lock could work in this area as well.
These are the StreetCuffs: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/
I didn't get the rapid charger. It does take awhile to charge, but so far the battery has lasted as much as I've needed it to in a day and I'm content to just let it charge overnight.
Good luck with whatever you choose! I really do love the Dart - if you can find a way to live around the size, it is a fantastic ride for the price!
You gotta get one of those Häagen-Dazs locks.
Edit - actually it's a Ben and Jerry's lock, but probably fits any pint:
Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Combination Lock Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENRK812/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zmi9Ab77BP2ZS
I was given a few cable locks meant for securing guns. Something like this. I use one for locking my helmet to my bike.
I don't know any bypass or decode for the Master Lock 1500iD Speed Dial. It's not the most rugged lock in the world, anyone with bolt cutters could pop it, but it does use a mechanical hashing function for the combination that is clever.
Maybe someone else here knows one?
Yeah it should be easy to find the owners manual online, in case they don't include it, since it can vary by vehicle what relay(s) you need to pull. Practice and test first, in daylight, before getting to the hotel so you can do it in the dark, without taking too long or too obviously
That, good locks, and the vibration alarm should make it fairly troublesome (and obvious) to steal or force, so the majority of thieves will look for a better target if they can't get in the back and it won't start.
To elaborate on the locks, since I only specified the model, there's two versions, an older one with a traditional key (that takes a good amount of skill to pick) and a newer one with what they call the "Abus Plus" disk cylinder, which is going to take some grand master level of skill to pick, that's about $5 more than the normal key. Here is the one with the wizard level picking skill needed to open, on Amazon. No referral link, I'm just using Amazon since it's easy. There's some other sizes like the larger 20/80. Look for the black cover over the keyway, not blue, to get the better lock cylinder and key. Keyed differently are cheaper, so if you're just needing one lock for the back, then get that. If you want them keyed the same, find the keyed the same version, and when you order more than 1, they'll be a matched key so you don't need a key for each lock. They're 60k key combos, so it's going to be very unlikely you'd find someone else with a matching key.
I use this chain
With this lock
Had to cut off some of the rubber on the lock for the chain to fit through.
I'm not sure about most states but in California you are required to either have a safe or you must buy a firearm lock like this http://amzn.com/B000LX86RU
That's where I got the idea! I thought, wouldn't that look funny with a giant padlock...
Interestingly, that Amazon page linked to a Master lock that looks like the one he broke into
Both holes are used in industrial lockout devices to lockout the plug. Here are some on Amazon: One Two. The spec says that the holes are optional but if you do manufacture them then you must locate them as specified. Those plug lockouts I listed will not work right if the plug doesn't have holes in the prongs.
Good point, I've just avoided ulocks since then. The masterlock motorcycle cuffs seem to do the trick for me.
Maybe if they would just use a REAL lock it won't get cut so quickly. As for the guy who complained about taking the long way around to take his kid to school? His fat ass could ride a bike and just, you know, go around the gate.
Some are as easy to pick you can do it with a pen cap. A wire rope with a circular shrouded padlock is the hardest to steal, the wire is a pain to get through with a bolt cutter and the padlock is resistant to shimming