Best patio, lawn & garden according to redditors
We found 21,627 Reddit comments discussing the best patio, lawn & garden. We ranked the 9,126 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. 1500 Live Ladybugs - Good Bugs - Ladybugs - Guaranteed Live Delivery!
Includes a Ladybug educational sheet with Release Tips, Release Rates, Ladybug Fun Facts and FAQ's1500 Live Ladybugs, Live Delivery Guaranteed!!Ladybugs are general predators that feed on a variety of slow-moving insects including Aphids, Moth eggs, Mites, Scales, Thrips, Leaf Hoppers, Mealybugs, Ch...
2. VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 300W LED Grow Light, with Daisy Chain, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
【UL Certified】Lighting SAFETY is just as important as EFFICIENCY. The V300 as a whole is UL Certified. It meets UL rigorous testings and safety standards to ensure safe operation. Fire-Resistant reflectors strengthens the light penetration, NO DANGER! VIPARSPECTRA is a trusted brand in the light...
3. MarsHydro LED Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flower Daisy Chain ECO 300W
HIGHER YIELD: Updated MARS ECO 300W light made with newest SMD leds which can get 30% higher PAR than old led. Full spectrum light perfect for all plants at all stages.ENERGY-SAVING: Consuming only 120watt±10% with the same effect of typical 150W hps or HID grow lights. Enough for 2’ X 2’ growi...
4. Bug-A-Salt 2.0 from Skell, Yellow
Non Toxic, Shoots Ordinary Table SaltOnly Shoots a Pinch of Salt, Accurate within Three Feet.No Batteries Required, Pop-up Sight IndicatorSold Directly from Manufacturer, Skell Inc.90-Day Warranty, Limited 1-Year Warranty Included with Proof of Purchase from Skell.
5. Roleadro Grow Light, 1000W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Galaxyhydro Series Plant Light for Indoor Plants with IR for Greenhouse, Hydroponics, Seedlings, Veg and Flower
►Blurples Light—Roleadro Grow light is an infrared grow light that is great for indoor plants. All Kinds of Indoor Plants Will be Happy in all Growth Stage at Any Time and Anywhere! The secret is our grow light extracted the most useful Blue Red IR and white light spectrum from natural sunlight ...
6. Roleadro HYG08-2X400W-W 800W COB Full Spectrum Grow Light LED Plant Lamp with ON/Off Switch and Daisy Chain Function, 2nd Generation Flowering and Veg
Daisy-chain connection function: two or more 800W COB grow lights can be connected together with the standard included power cord. This makes less power cords and expands the extent of the light coverage. Saving energy, money & time. It will be the best solution for your grow lights indoor.Intimate ...
7. Roleadro LED Grow Light, 600W 2nd Generation Plant Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Greenhouse Hydroponic Plants Veg and Flower
Daylight Full spectrum: Every led is full spectrum included 420nm-780nm which effectively promote the synthesis of suga for your plants than the traditional red and blue growing lights.This plant lights has a 3500K color temperature which is ideal for all phrase of growing, both vegetation and flowe...
8. HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range, 1 ppm Resolution, 3% Readout Accuracy
Economy model that is ideal for end-users. Highly efficient and accurate due to its advanced microprocessor technology.Hold Function: saves measurements for convenient reading and recording and battery life is approx. 1000 hours of usage and power source is 2 x 1.5V button cell batteries (included) ...
9. VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 600W LED Grow Light,with Daisy Chain,Veg and Bloom Switches, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
【UL Certified】Lighting SAFETY is just as important as EFFICIENCY. The V600 as a whole is UL Certified. It meets UL rigorous testings and safety standards to ensure safe operation. Fire-Resistant reflectors strengthens the light penetration, NO DANGER! VIPARSPECTRA is a trusted brand in the light...
10. VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard
RELIABLE RESULTS: VIVOSUN’s professional heat mat maintains temperatures in the sweet spot of around 20-30℃（68-86℉）- perfect for seed starting and cutting propagationSTABLE, UNIFORM HEAT: VIVOSUN's strengthened heating film ensure this durable mat never scorches your roots and produces lo...
11. Bayou Classic KAB4 High Pressure Banjo Cooker
16-In large cooking surface12.5-In tall Welded Steel frame10-In cast iron burner360˚ windscreen protection48-In stainless braided hose30-Psi adjustable regulatorDesigned for large pots up to 100-qt capacity, minimum of 14-in diameter
12. HLG 65 V2 4000K Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom 4000K | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded Samsung LM301B LED's
High efficiency QB120 Quantum BoardWhite Light Full Spectrum 4000K. Ideal for veg and flowering in small spacesReliable passive cooled designBetter canopy light penetration with diffused lightNon-Dimmable Meanwell Power Supply included with NEMA 1-15p plug
13. General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3)
GH Flora Series is the original Building Block Nutrient System imitated but never duplicated; Contains complete Primary, Secondary and Micro Nutrients for enhanced yields and better crop qualityUsers can adjust mixtures to suit specific plant needs; Enhances flavor, nutrition, aroma and essential oi...
14. Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light for Plant Growing
1 – 180W Apollo Horticulture LED UFODiameter: 10.5” , Coverage Area: 2.5’ x 2.5’ ; 5 Square Feet60pcs , 3W Chips ; Lifespan: 50,000 Hours6 Band Spectrum: 430nm, 475nm, 620nm, 630nm, 660nm & 730nmPackage Includes: 1 – 180W LED UFO / 1 – Power Cord / 1 – Set of Stainless Steel Hanging Cl...
15. Renogy Solar Panel, Single
TECHNOLOGY - Advanced encapsulation material with multi-layered sheet minimizations enhance cell performance and provide a longer service life. Corrosion-resistant aluminum frame allows extended outdoor use; the panels can last for decades, anti-reflective, high transparency, low iron-tempered glass...
16. Maverick ET-733 Long Range Wireless Dual Probe BBQ Smoker Meat Thermometer Set
FEATURES INCLUDE: Larger Backlit Screen Shows more information (you can now see the Custom set alert Temperature at all times) , 2 Hybrid Probes are included, Easier controls and 15 New Preset Temperatures of types of meat to choose from. Making this one of the most sought-after grill accessory.WIRE...
17. TERRO T300B Liquid Ant Bait Ant Killer, 12 Bait Stations
12 bait stations includedKills all common household antsPre-filled, ready-to-use bait stationsPatented design prevents bait from drying outAttracts ants fastContains BoraxPlace baits near ant trails or where ants are numerousUse all six baits to ensure sufficient supply for the ants
18. Red Dragon BP 2512 SVC 400,000 BTU Weed Dragon Backpack Propane Vapor Torch Kit with Squeeze Valve
Includes 10-pound empty propane tankFlame weeds and brush in your yardThaw frozen pipesMelt snow and iceRemove paint, grease, oil, and plastic from metal
19. Best Choice Products 9ft Portable Heavy-Duty Steel Hammock Stand w/Carrying Case, Weather-Resistant Finish
9FT HAMMOCK STAND: Accommodates hammocks up to 9ft long and in many styles including brazilian, flat, spreader, rope, and more!DURABLE AND WEATHER-RESISTANT: Made of weather-resistant, powder-coated steel to prevent rusting and ensure long-lasting supportHIGH WEIGHT CAPACITY: Made of heavy-duty 12-g...
20. Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash, 1 Pack
Quick, at home results for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphrous and PotashInnovative and inexpensive soil test kit features an easy-to-use capsule system and patented color comparatorsContains all components needed for 40 tests. 10 for each of pH, N, P and KSimple, detailed instructions included. Great f...
You deserve a hug.
Edit: I just went to delete stuff and realized the camera is the least of my worries. My gf hasn't cared about the flame thrower, suture practice pad, or yeast infection cream that the vet recommended for my dog's ears. I don't think she would care about this.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
$8 ought to teach her a lesson.
You can send someone roughly 7500 ladybugs with no explanation. I'm sending a bag to my mom when it gets warmer here.
It's called Bug-A-Salt.
https://www.amazon.com/TERRO-T300B-2-Pack-Liquid-Baits/dp/B00E4GACB8 Best ant traps NA
Have yourself a ball then OP
You can even buy them to kill bugs with
Actually, that's a perfect idea, get this, and keep vacuum cleaner nearby.
Here it is in action
I found a flamethrower.
1,500,000 Ladybugs. Release them in your enemies house.
And they sell them on Amazon.
If you want to prank someone and make their garden fabulous as the same time, unleash a box of 1,500 live ladybugs when they're not home.
It's so your hands are free for better multitasking. You can file taxes, include a TPS report, stick a finger in their anus, or order 1500 live ladybugs on amazon.
Using solar in a van is simple if your expectations are in line, and unworkable if not.
First, the bad: If you want to run devices that heat or cool with electricity, such as coffeemakers, hotplates, A/C, toasters, hair dryers, etc., you will not make your numbers or anywhere near them. Give that all up. There is a reason whole-house systems cost $30k, it is heating and cooling.
For a quick example, say you have a tiny 700 watt A/C unit. This represents half a normal small window A/C, or half a hairdryer. A 100Ah marine cell (basically a car battery that swaps maximum acid/lead contact area for thicker internal lead plates) from Wal-Mart ($100) has 100Ah, which translates to roughly 1200 watt hours. You do not want to run a wet cell like this below 50% or so; a fully-charged marine cell will run a unit like this for about 50 minutes. So, if you want to run it 10 hours a day off batteries, you will need 12 fully-chrged batteries, costing $1200 and weighting 700 pounds. You would also need a semi-sized trailer covered in panels to charge them. Oh, and the A/C compressor takes double the load when it starts up — which will tire the batteries out quickly, so expect that $1200 in batteries to be a yearly thing.
Now, the awesome: IT WORKS. I ran 30 feet of LEDs, a laptop, a small but nice stereo, a PoE wireless antenna, a wireless hub, iPhones and iPods, 18v DeWalt battery packs, a fan — plus whatever I am forgetting — off of 2 x 100W solar panels and 2 x 100Ah marine cells while boon docking in my camper for ten weeks.
To run a full system you will need a solar panel, an inverter, a battery, and a charge controller.
First you must go ahead and do all the math of your usage, because we are are still at the stage where we must all do all the math, and math is good, but when you are doing all the math to the third significant digit, and looking up the model of that rechargeable flashlight you like for its charging amperage requirements, maybe say screw it and start with half what works for my boon docking setup; one beefy panel, one solid battery. You can then add another panel later if your location or climate require it to keep the battery charged.
As to wiring, your charge controller will have connections that include a legend where to hook up your batteries, panels and inverter, so easy peasy there. See the link below for an example. I recommend spending the extra on an MPPT controller, which converts some of your extra juice (the 12V panel below can run almost 19V) that normally is dumped when charging into increased amperage of the charging current. Do the math of your expected load, it's possible you will want a 20A.
YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE MATH on wire sizes. There are calculators online. For your small setup, the important run is going to be between the battery and the charge controller. This is where the fires start. If you think you will EVER add another battery dig deep and wire for it. Also, fuse your system correcly, there is a schematic on the charge controller link below. Don't skip this, you can get the fuse holders and fuses at your local auto parts store.
For inverters, I feel better about everything by getting a well-respected pure sinewave unit. I run a Cotec 350W for the solar, and it seems bulletproof. I also run a Xantrex 600 in my 4Runner and it seems just as solid. You could save a ton by getting a cheap modified sinewave one and seeing if it meets your needs. Either way they will have outlets on them, so you don't need to wire it further.
Also, no wet cells inside the vehicle unless properly secured, sealed to the inside, and vented to the outside.
Charge controller (10A likely okay, do your math, I got the 20 amp)
I think 30,000 ladybugs is too good an offer to turn down
Edit: JESUS CHRIST YOU CAN GET 45,000 LADYBUGS FOR $100
A bit over 2 oz per plant cured bud (plus a decent amount of low grade cannaoil from the leaves), so 12 oz+ per year. I have a small grow tent, and I use a Marshydro 300.
Go with lady bugs instead. They fly around.
If you park in my parking spot and crack open your window... be prepared for a car full of lady bugs.
Ant traps: https://www.amazon.com/TERRO-T300B-2-Pack-Liquid-Baits/dp/B00E4GACB8
And for a friendly tip, if you have an ant problem, just store your snacks in plastic containers with lids that seal. Yeah, I've been there before.
[Here ya go.] (https://www.amazon.com/Bug-A-Salt-2-0-from-Skell-Inc/dp/B00STSZ77G)
1500 live ladybugs.
[Ladybugs!!](http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1309570237&amp;sr=8-30 and Gummy Worms!!
Richard, be the hero Emily needs and buy one of these to rid the house of the flies.
"The BUG-A-SALT 2.0 is the most powerful, efficient BUG-A-SALT designed yet. The Bug-A-Salt shoots a shotgun spray of regular table salt and decimates flies on contact. A surefire fun way to enjoy a disgusting task. Rid your house of all those pesky pests and have a blast while doing it. For use by adults only! 18 years of age and older!"
Or just get some Terro ant baits and place them around where they hang out. They will SWARM the baits but don't kill them yet, they have to bring poison back to the hive where it'll kill their mama and babies.
I would look into $800 worth of live lady bugs. You can get 1500 for $5 plus shipping. So around 240,000 lady bugs. 0.0
I have her under this light, about a foot away. :)
Once you find the fly kill it with this. The salt fly shotgun https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00STSZ77G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1501242614&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=fly+gun.
It's a little expensive at 50 bones but I'm on the 2nd year strong. Best amazon purchase to date.
Combination of parts from Amazon and ebay. Not all of them are necessary, fittings and Brute trashcans and such are from Home Depot.
Runs the lights, pump, fans, and other electronics. Kind of excessive. 5A would be enough.
Don't cheap out on these. Crappy plastic check valves really screwed me early on.
Needed for priming the pump or flushing the nutrient reservoir.
This was roughly 4x what I actually needed.
Transplanting the sprouts into this was weird, but they took well to it.
Everything I chose was 5/16 inner diameter.
Hydroponic pots, specifically for Leca substrate.
I think that dripping from two feet aerates the water naturally, but this can't hurt.
Wait for sales on these! The 270W light is $80 now, but I got it for $60.
To make the door airtight.
This will be enough for a bunch of grows. A little goes a long way.
Will also last a long time. Only takes a few drops to balance a gallon.
This thing was bigger than I anticipated.
For making the irrigation loops.
Loud as heck. Ended up using a quieter fan I had around.
Quiet as heck. Rated for 2.1GPM. It's enough, but I think that a 5GPM pump would have been better.
If he doesn't already have a good thermometer, there are two types he should own.
Maverick ET-733 Long Range Wireless Dual Probe BBQ Smoker Meat Thermometer Set
Alpha Grillers Instant Read Meat Thermometer.
[Salt Weapon] (https://www.amazon.com/Bug-A-Salt-2-0-Insect-Eradication-Gun/dp/B00STSZ77G)
Eine Salz-Schrotflinte, mit der man Insekten abknallen kann.
First of all, I don't agree that a generator is an important prep unless you have a specific life-or-death need, e.g. medical equipment or an electric-powered well. The average apartment-dweller should be able to get by without electrical service for a few days. Stock up on spare batteries for flashlights and such. Get some non-electronic forms of entertainment. Get a hand-crank radio — many of them can charge your phone as well. Get food that doesn't need refrigeration or cooking. Learn which food actually needs refrigeration for safety; don't throw out your whole fridge on day one of an outage.
That will cover the short term and, in a long-term disaster, fuel will be in short supply so a generator is of questionable use.
> Unfortunately, i live in an apartment in socal. Can generators even be used in an apartment? I have a small balcony.
Do not risk it. Carbon monoxide can get inside the building. Do not risk it.
As an alternative, consider a portable power pack, and remember to keep it charged up! Some can be charged from solar as well. Or DIY with a bare panel, a charge controller, a marine deep-cycle battery and an inverter. (Also, a lot of things such as LED light strips can run directly from the 12V battery and don't need an inverter.)
> How long do they last if i buy one and just throw it in storage?
All prepper equipment should be tested regularly. I'm not an expert but I would say run it for 30 minutes every month or two. Remember that gasoline goes bad after a few months. They also have starter batteries that need to be topped up like a car battery. You'll need to check the oil and air filter and replace if needed.
> Once i buy a house, what is the best generator to own?
Like any "what's best" question, it depends on your needs. How much power do you need? Look into a dual-fuel gas/propane generator as well. Propane is much safer to store and it stays good for decades assuming your tank doesn't leak.
Also for the love of god, don't jury-rig a connection to the house wiring. There are about seven ways to kill yourself or someone else by doing that. You need to use a proper transfer switch or at least a breaker interlock plate. The easier option is to rely on extension cords and not the house wiring.
Think smaller... insects are cheap and easy to acquire and you don't have to feel bad about harming something cute and fuzzy. It could take months to get rid of all of them!
Lights: I have the mars hydro 300 (132 true watts) as my main light on the top, and plan to add a couple strips for side lighting in the near future.
Ventilation: As you may see from the pictures, I have the heat exhaust on the top side. The exhaust is being pulled into a secondary tote. In the secondary tote I have a large carbon filter attached to a 6 inch inline fan with variable speed control. This kit. Definitely overkill but I like the room for expansion.
I plan to start growing in a 3 gallon smart pot knock off, with some ak-48 autoflower seeds.
I have really enjoyed watching this community grow through the years.
Thank you everyone for your wonderful contributions. Guys like /u/Ekrof, SAG, /u/Halfmpty, /u/exactly25smeckles, and the rest have really inspired me to try this for myself.
I would like to add some filtration to my passive intake, any suggestions?
You OWE it to your father to buy this.
The question and answer section for the Bug-a-salt is fucking hilarious!
I use this one for festival camping and anywhere else without trees with my double nest. 450 lb weight limit, 9 feet long, steel construction. Disassembles and comes with a bag for travel, definitely not lightweight.
Gosh, I don't even know where to start. I've put my Viparscpectra 600w (276 true draw) through 2 grows now and I'm getting really good results - I'm very happy with the bud growth. Can you get even bigger buds with a different light, sure - of course you can. Does that warrant a PSA? Probably not, unless it's exploding in people's faces, lol.
What you say about the light killing plants is true, but in the early days no one read the manual that comes with it where it specifically warns against putting seedlings closer than 30" or vegging plants closer than 24". You don't want your plants closer than that with an LED anyway because you don't get the same coverage area in terms of PAR values.
Okay, so lastly let me just say that it looks like you don't even own the light, is that so? You're going by the fact that you don't like it's specs? And you link people's negative reviews (and none of the positive). You've got a hell of a grudge going on there, what did Viparspectra DO to you?
Like most super powers, you can buy it for under $20
*first result I got on amazon. I'm not sure how good it is.
Get 1500 live cats delivered for cheap.
They're under this Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGFW0XO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wvS4DbB3R91HY) about 11 - 12 hours a day.
The soil is a 60/40 ish mix of Miracle Gro cactus mix and bonsai jack. I sifted a thin top layer to create a finer layer of dirt for the seedlings to root into initially.
Temperature fluctuates, but I would estimate that they're kept between 67-74 depending on the season.
I also grew them in the KORAM 10 Sets Seed Starter Trays (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX0JBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HDS4Db30AQAJR), so I kept the soil moist pretty much constantly until recently when I've been able to neglect them more and let it dry out a bit. I admit my watering is kind of arbitrary and I've been hoping for the best since this was my first attempt at growing from seeds lol. I have another more detailed comment somewhere else that I could find if you need more info 😊
The site's owner Meathead has been building this site for years. It's now a wiki of barbecue.
Personally, I have a WSM 18.5, which is a charcoal smoker. You can also use this as a charcoal grill. I also use a Maverick thermometer, which has a wireless monitor and dual probes, so one for the smoke chamber and one for the meat. If either of those temps varies outside the range you set, the monitor in your pocket alerts you.
I also have a Big Chief electric that is perfect for salmon, and also vegetables, nuts, cheese and pretty much everything that isn't meat, all things that smoke best at 200F and below. The Big Chief won't hold temp above 200F, so it's useless for meats. The charcoal smoker won't easily hold temp under 200F, so I like having both.
I'll probably get a propane smoker next year, maybe the Smoke Hollow 44. It looks like I'd have fun using it.
I searched for all the mods before I used my wsm but I haven't really seen a need for any of them. Totally stock it holds great temps and smokes like a dream.
My main recommendation for gift ideas is a good wireless thermometer (link).
This is the first light I bought. Freaking BLURPLE HAZE. Delegated it to the mud room with some echeveria's. While it does have white, UV and IR, missing green through yellow. So not true full spectrum light. It does do great on PAR (photosyntheticically active radiation). How many photons per watt etc etc...
this, and it’s cheaper.
This hobby could really benefit from learning stuff from weed growers.
Link to the models I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Are you willing to invest in some tools? Do you like Five Guys? (skinny burgers) The fastest burger procedure that I know of is Kenji's Ultra-Smash technique, which makes a pair of thin patties in no time. Takes about a minute per burger (two patties with cheese). Details here:
You can also do a regular smash burger, which is thicker (McDonalds-thin), but takes longer (~1.5 minutes per side, about 3 minutes total per burger):
The advantage of the ultra-smash is that it's super quick & you can toss a piece of cheese to melt between two patties, so you can pump out a ton of burgers in no time. You will need a few tools, namely:
It's not rocket science, but getting a proper setup will let you have a workflow that makes cooking for a crowd a breeze. I have a big extended family, so I cook in bulk a lot, but I also use this for just my immediate family because it's so fast to get setup. There is an up-front investment required, but everything you'll buy will pretty much last forever, so it's worth it if you like to eat burgers!
So the first two things you need are a metal cooking surface & a heat source that can pump out a lot of heat. I don't recommend a regular grill because they simply don't get hot enough; you need 600 to 700F to do this. You can either do a compact setup (a 2-burger surface with a single burner) or invest in a quality flat-top setup (more expensive, but lets you do more burgers at once). The ideal surface to do this on is a Baking Steel, which is very expensive. There are knockoffs for cheaper, but I like BS because they have a Griddle version with grooves to catch the grease:
You can also do it with cast iron. Lodge has a griddle for $25:
If I'm just doing a single regular smash burger at a time, I use a 12" cast-iron pan. $28:
If you do get into cast-iron, read up on this seasoning procedure (i.e. the way to keep it smooth & slippery without Teflon). It's a bit of a pain, but it's worth learning because anything you buy in cast-iron can be handed down to your kids because it lasts forever:
You will want a heavy smashing tool as well. I have this massive 2.5-pound cast-iron press. It fits inside the 12" pan above (but not the 10"). $13:
If you plan on doing ultra-smash burgers, you'll need a scraper. This is the one Kenji recommends, but you can probably find something locally: (Home Depot or Lowes)
Anyway, getting back to the cooking part: you'll need a hi-temp burner. I like Bayou Burners, they sell them on Amazon. I have an SP10: ($50)
I use that with my 12" cast-iron pan for when I'm just doing a few burgers for the family. 15 minutes = 5 burgers. You can also slap a flat surface like a cast-iron griddle or Baking Steel on that puppy. Also comes in a square version (not sure how the BTU's compare). I also have some KAB4 burners that I use with my Baking Steel, among other things. More expensive, but larger shell & burner: (more even heat over the cooking surface)
For cooking more at a time, you can get a cooktop. Blackstone has a 36" cooktop available, but it doesn't get very hot (don't get me wrong, it's an awesome tool, but I've had trouble breaking 500F on mine, which means you're not cooking 1-minute burgers on it, plus the heating is kind of uneven, so you have to work in the hot spots for faster cook times). Also comes in a slightly smaller 28" version (but it's only like $50 less, so it makes more sense to get the full-sized version because you get so much more cooking area). The nice thing with this setup is that for $299 (or a bit less if you shop around at places like Cabela's), you can cook like 20 burgers at a time, it's absolutely insane! I make epic breakfasts on it. Plus it folds up for transport, which is really handy. We use it for all of our family events & holidays:
A better version is from Tejas Smokers. They make camping stove carts that have burners built-in & have griddles available separately. They get super hot, downside is the cost: you can easily spend $700 on a nice setup.
Oh yeah, Blackstone did just come out with a compact outdoor griddle which can run off those little one-pound green tanks if you want. They go for around $99 ($79 if you have an Ace Hardware near you). I have not tried this, but it gets good reviews. I'd be curious to see what kind of temperatures it can achieve:
So that's a basic introduction to the cooktops: you need some kind of decently-sized metal surface, a hi-temp burner, a smashing tool, and optionally (but recommended) a scraper. You will also want to get a strong, high-quality spatula. A good one is $32:
If you opt for cast-iron, get an infrared temperature gun (doesn't work too well on shiny metal surfaces like steel tho). $17:
A cheap digital kitchen scale is useful too, for measuring out the proper amount of meat. $14:
This collection of tools ensures that you have the proper workflow: a metal surface to cook on, the ability to bring the surface to a high temperature (and know what that temperature is for precise control), the ability to weigh your meat so you can pre-measure out what you need, the ability to smash the burger down, and also to properly scrape it off. Again, it's not rocket science, but if you have a wussy grill or a crappy surface or weak smashing/scraping tools, you're gonna have a bad time. You just need the right setup to pump burgers out fast!
So on to prep. For ultra-smash, you do a pair of 2-ounce ground beef balls. In the tutorial above, they use a mix of meat for 25% fat. I just grab some regular 80/20 ground plus some salt & pepper. For regular smash burgers, do a single 4-ounce ball (optionally 5 ounces...useful if you have a big cooktop for a bunch of burgers at one time & are only doing a single patty per burger). The nice thing is, there's no special prep required for the meat, so you can make all of your burger balls ahead of time. If you have 10 people & are doing ultra-smash, let's say half of them get 2 burgers, so 15 burgers total, or thirty 2oz balls. If you have 20 people & are doing regular smash, again with half getting an extra burger, that's 30 burgers total or thirty 4 or 5oz balls. So that takes care of prep...adjust as needed. If you're feeding mostly dudes, you'll want to add more seconds (and thirds) to the equation.
There are a variety of buns you can get. Crap buns will make for a crap burger. See if you can find potato buns or brioche buns. Those are pretty soft. Buns aren't overly hard to make, but I have yet to find a decent recipe that takes under 40 minutes, so I usually only doing fancy home-baked buns for my family rather than a crowd. Buying 5 or 10 pounds of ground beef & making smash balls out of them will take you all of ten minutes, but making buns can take forever. Here's a good recipe if you want to try it out tho:
Or this, if you wanna get crazy:
Or this one, nom nom nom:
But eh, just hit up Sam's/Coscto/BJ's and buy some hamburger buns in bulk, problem solved. Or find a local bakery that has good rolls. There's a good shootout of buns here:
Your order has arrived.
you can actually get more lady bugs
respond with 1500 ladybugs
I wouldn't bother with those lights. I was on the exact same boat as you a couple of weeks ago. Skmood1 actually pointed me in the right direction.
I'm not sure what your budget is, but you may want to look into COB LIGHTS. They are 1000 leagues better than the viparspectra and all those LEDS in the same tier. They use pretty old tech apparently.
I just started to learn ins and outs of LED, if I'm wrong here, please correct me
Lets take a look at a couple of the numbers Vipar provides (last picture on amazon). Looking at their spectrum sheet, right off the bat the light you selected will under perform where it matters, flowering; buds. It lacks a good deal of red spectrum light. However with that said, it'll be a decent light for veg, worth it? No, but decent. I won't say worth it, because now you want to look at efficiency and lumen per watt. Efficiency in terms of led is basically how much light is produced versus heat from your LED panel.
The Vipar has a pretty shitty efficiency, it loks like you'll be prducing 67% of heat vs 33% of usable light. With COBs, you can essentially choose your own, going all the way up to 70% light. With lower efficiency, you'll get more lumen per watt (more light, I guess?). The next step up are Quantum Boards, but those are always out of stock!
Just a heads up, COBs are generally more expensive outright, and there maybe a little DIY involved, but it totally worth it. I was running the 600w viparspectra PAR series for 2 weeks, and my seedlings grew about 3 inches. I moved over to a 2 cob array (less power than my vipar), and in 1 day I see 2 new growth leaves, both plants grew at least half an inch, I was blown out of the water.
P.S.- this one looks better: Mars Hydro 300w
Check out the spectrum chart! Good luck and have fun. I killed sooooo many seedlings, purchased sooooo many unnecessary things, but the people here helped me every step of the way. You're in proper hands.
Inside this grow-tent, I'm using 2x VIPARSPECTRA 300w LEDs for the lighting. I have a 4 LPM air pump with tubes running into each container (plugged to air stones). This setup is running on a timer from 6AM to 10PM.
The containers are ~10L (a bit more than 2gal) plastic trash bins from Walmart. I found it was the most efficient containers as they are more high than wide (unlike most standard storage containers), which allows me to fit more in the tent. This also enables the roots of the plants to reach deeper which I think is good (but don't quote me on this).
As for the nutrients I use standard General Hydroponics Flora series. I started with small concentration first, then followed the general indications on the bottles (aggressive vegetative growth until they start to flower, then transition to bloom, and then bloom and ripening).
I topped them all at the beginning when they had about 4 or 5 sets of leaves. I also pruned them a few times, cutting big leaves preventing light from reaching the middle of the plant.
Temperature was kept at between 22°C and 28°C most of the time (71F - 82F). Humidity varied between 35% and 55%.
I also have a Raspberry Pi in there to which I connected (and soldered) a humidity and temperature sensor. I then wrote a little app to send the data to a database and wrote another app to display real-time temperature stats and charts. I did this mostly for fun but it was useful.
I've had the Maverick ET-733 for a little bit now. I like it pretty well.
WOAH! WHERE DO I GET ONE???
Not a bad price on that kit. Personally I pieced together my own, using a Renology 100W panel and a cheap Mohoo PWM controller, and what you're looking at looks pretty comparable for a comparable price.
To try and actually answer your question, though, here's a fairly quick run-down of how to roughly size your battery. I'll use my own situation as an example; I have a small popup camper my wife and I use in the boonies, nowhere near power, for days at a time. This will assume you're using decent quality, sealed AGM deep cycle batteries, not the garbage RV/Marine "deep cycle" batteries, which are not true deep cycle, just slightly tougher starting batteries.
First step is actually the hard part, the rest is easy. You need to know what you want to run, how much power it draws, and how much you want to be able to run it between charges. That sizes your battery. Finding the current draw on your items if you don't already have them can be the hard part - if possible, it's often best to have what you want to run, and measure it for actual numbers.
For example, my main loads are:
My worst case overnight loads basically work out to 20Ah (fans) + 3Ah (lights) + 4Ah (phones) + 5Ah(mods). That's about 32Ah of load per day, pretty much worst case in hot weather.
Now, you can do a few different calculations to get a minimum battery size from that.
Number one, you really don't want to regularly cycle your battery below 50%, unless you want to be replacing your good batteries a lot. Hence, your absolute minimum recommended battery size would be 2x your load between charges. In my case, that's about 64Ah. A deep cycle discharged to 50% will usually last about 400 charge cycles.
Now, given the choice, you really don't even want to discharge that low. A deep cycle discharged only 30% (roughly 1/3) will usually last 1100-1200 cycles. I generally recommend you size for at least triple your daily load. This pays off big time in the long run. For 50% more battery, your batteries will usually last nearly 200% longer (3x as long). Enormous cost savings long term.
Hence, my recommended sizing would be 32Ah x 3, or 96Ah. I'm running a 100Ah battery, UPG UB121000, part number 45981. In practice I'm not regularly discharging this battery more than about 25%.
Now, you get some extra benefit from oversizing as well. By sizing to 1/3 discharge, I can run two days without charging if I have to, and not be worse than a 70% discharge. That's a good emergency backup, since if you regularly discharge anywhere near 100%, your battery usually won't last more than 100-150 cycles. That covers me in case I get a day with absolutely zero sun. In practice this isn't a big worry for me, as on days with poor sun I'm only running the fans about half as much anyway, and if I couldn't get topped off during the day, in a pinch I'd just connect jumper cables to my van and have the battery at full charge after about an hour at idle.
Next, once you know your average daily usage, you can also size your solar panel. You actually need to size more by charge time than by pure wattage, since a 100W panel will not produce 100W using a PWM controller. My 100W panel produces about 5.3A at 19V under ideal conditions (that calculates to 100W), but since the PWM controller just knocks the voltage down to an appropriate battery charge voltage, I'll never actually get 100W out of this panel. The current maxes out at 5.3A, but my battery pulls the voltage down to around 13.5V at charge, so at most I'm actually getting about 72W out of it.
To size your panel, look at the optimum operating current (usually listed as Imp), and use that to size in amp hours instead. Plus, you also need to include any loads you'll be running while you charge. In my case, my panel puts out about 5.3A, but if it's a hot day, I'm going to be running one of those fans on medium (2.25A) for our sheepdogs in the van, so I really only have about 3A to work with to charge. If I can get a solid 8h worth of good charging light, that's about 24Ah useable per day. As you could see, I'd really do well with a second panel. As it is, it's been just sufficient with one panel to mostly keep me topped up, since I haven't had a ton of hot weather where we've really had to run the fans a lot.
If I added a second panel, I'd have roughly 8A to charge with even with that fan running, and could reliably charge my bank all the way with only about 4h of good, full sun.
I know that's a bit long, but hopefully it'll be a help to get you going in the right direction!
I followed /u/spkmoneky's lid build and it's been phenomenal.
I bought this light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFW0XO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this muffin fan:
And followed this write up: https://old.reddit.com/r/SpaceBuckets/comments/8ktr9b/my_ufo_bucket_lid_installation_tips_instructions/
Fits like a dream and works wonderfully!
I added a speed controller for better noise control and it's been spectacular: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00809BQZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I own this one it's cheap, and accurate. It could report a temp faster but it's not so slow that I overcook things. There are better thermometers out there, and you'll want to get a dual probe with a remote fancy thing like this later (especially useful for smoking)
BBQ gloves are a good idea as well.
Good tongs I have some that are similar to this, and I really like them. Other people like a springier tong with a little more give to the ends. (I had them, I hated them.) For these probably go to a store, and try some out. Just pick up random shit on the shelves at Bed Bath and Beyond with tongs until you find the ones you like.
Small Fan (on a timer, runs for 30 minutes every 2 hours or so)
I got an old fridge on Craigslist for $25 that I thought was a small personal fridge but turned out to be about 6 cubic feet (perfect for hanging). I’m not sure of the brand actually (maybe Kenmore). So far I’ve done a Bresaola and a Copa, both have turned out great!
I found a flamethrower. On Amazon.
That's seriously a flamethrower. On Amazon.
And it's prime eligible.
you may need this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI7PQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501514524&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=flamethrower&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41K5yMOucTL&amp;ref=plSrch
I have the same one. TDS meter reads in single digits.
Holy shit you can buy a lot of ladybugs on Amazon for $5.
Don't let your dreams be dreams
It's not hard to buy bugs online
Poor example, because there's a driver involved. People do, however, steal packages from neighbors' doorsteps. If some punk or asshole sees a drone and nobody around, they may indeed try to snatch it and run.
Edit: In addition, robbing a UPS truck is a huge risk with an uncertain reward. Knocking over a convenience store, you know you'll get some cash. However, on a UPS truck, you won't know what's inside of the boxes. And chances are, you wouldn't have enough time to load all the boxes into your own truck to improve the likelihood that you get one with something good in it, all the while dealing with the driver and anyone else around, and all before the cops show up. And you wouldn't be able to carry them all away without a ton of people. Like, way too many people. The drivers have downright horrendous schedules to keep, and are kept under close watch to make sure they're always where they need to be. I don't know if the trucks have trackers in them, but it's a safe bet that they do. So in all likelihood, you're only going to get away with a few boxes that you haven't a clue about the contents of. Could be a couple thousand dollar TV, could be 1500 ladybugs.
Now, that's not to say that every thief is going to think all that through. And the tracker point counts for both the truck and the drone. But there are far more types of people who might snatch a drone out of the air than who might steal a UPS truck, and I'd say a higher percentage of the latter are likely to give that some thought. Stealing a drone seems like the sort of thing that would more often be done on the fly. So it follows that UPS truck highjackings would probably be far less common than drone thievings.
Hey, I JUST came off building a setup and it cost me $750 total. We have 3 plants in there right now. I have the entire list with amazon links or store suggestions.
Item| Price | Where To Buy
Tent| $95| We bought this one, I don't know if it's worth spending a lot on anything more expensive. For a smaller option I just got a second with good reviews but can't vouch for it yet.
Lights/Hood/Ballast| $140| I got the 600W set, but 400W would make cooling MUCH easier and still get a big yield. For LEDs at similar price, Viparspectra 300W x2 or a single 600W eliminates need for extra cooling potentially (not included here, we used fans from around the house)
ph Test+Control Kit | $25| GET THIS. The water must be pH'd properly for your babies' health.
Cloth Pots| $20 | These are better for aeration, water flow, training, etc. Cheap and reusable too.
Nutrients | $50 | I got the Fox Farms Trio, but there are many good options out there.
Fan + Filter | $150 | This is huge and might be overkill for you. Make sure whatever you get fits your tent vents (This one fits the Apollo tent above with 6" vents).
Ducting | $20 | Connect fan to filter, to tent, to wherever. Might want multiple sizes, check tent vent sizes.
Foil Tape, Metallic | $10 | Here. Metal Duct tape is best duct tape.
Fan Speed Controller | $20 | Useful for if you do get a fan that is slightly overkill!
Fox Farms Ocean Forest | $15 - $40 | You can buy it online and I did for my first 3 bags....then I found it in a local store for $15. There is some controversy with FF lately, it's not organic FYI. There are tutorials on making your own soil if you care, but I like this because I didn't have to use nutes for 3-4 weeks.
Humidifier | $30 | This is the exact one I have. We're in winter so I need it to keep humidity up, you may not.
Dehumidifier | $40 | There are plenty for this much. You may not need this either.
Cal-Mag | $20 | I haven't needed it yet but it's best to have on hand if you do!
Seeds | $75 | I bought from Attitude, chose stealth, and bought like 15 seeds?, so it was expensive. You can get seeds for less.
Jiffy Pellets | $10 | Used to start seeds. There are other options.
Total | $745 | If you buy all this stuff, you have potentially even more than you need to get started, with room for 3-4x more plants than these boxes, and with nutrients to last you for a long long time!
Hope this helps! I'd hate to see you drop so much on it when you don't need to at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Upgrade-Developed-Spectrum-Generation/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491614917&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=roleadro+300w get this one, I use it and tons of people recommend it on here. I had one which has worked great in a 2x2x4 tent and just added another one.
How about a COB like this one? Its only $79 much cheaper than the ones in the article and so is it a good entry into COB LEDs or just skip it and go for the brand names?
Give him a taste of his own medicine
It's led grow lights with bulbs in several different spectrums, like this. OP is growing the dank in his closet.
I looked at OP's post history.
276 Watt (actual useage) Viparspectra 600.
The light is called a 600 because it has 120 5-Watt LED's 120*5=600 But they are driven to 46% maximum wattage to prolong life and not build of as much heat.
The 1 gram per watt, decent harvest, estimate suggests OP should get 10 ounces with ease.
Not terribly hard. Depends on how elaborate you want to go. At minimum buy a grow light, and a grow tent, pot a few plants, and tend to them regularly enough to see that they are healthy. Then harvest when the time comes, and then dry & cure for a couple weeks. Figure 3-4 months from the day you plant the seed to a good smoke.
Once the set-up is done it's just tending to your babies, looking for refinements in your process.
Some plants during flowering really stink though. Even 2-3 will stink up your whole house and can permeate to neighbors if living in attached homes.
Link for the lazy
I suppose you could use one of these.
ich empfehle die Investition in eine Salzkanone. Durchaus spaßig, Fliegende Quälgeister mit einer Prise Salz um die Ecke zu bringen. Je nach Ausmaß der Fliegeninvassion wäre jedoch die Anschaffung eines Saugroboters eventuell empfehlenswert
You mean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=asc_df_B00STSZ77G5390494/
Here's an Assalt rifle that shoots slugs.
the one I have
Works great and easy set up and take down! Slept like a fuckin baby at Roo last year
If you want blurple lights, the MarsHydro is a go to. T5 and T8 fluorescent bulbs/fixtures are a usual grow light suggestion.
How many plants do you want to support? What stages of growth?
8-12 plants in that space is not gonna work. I would do 1-2 if you wanna scrog and 3 if you're not. And those are max amounts. Realistically 2 is already pushing it.
And those lights really are garbage man. Get a refund if you can asap.
For your size tent/room I would get either 2 of these
or 2 of these
Soil test kit
Soil pH guide
How to create a backyard pond
Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.
I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!
600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50
6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75
25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10
48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99
FFOF - $18.99
General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95
CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23
Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65
Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19
Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84
PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95
Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59
LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81
Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.
Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><
You can get live ladybugs on Amazon
I bought some praying mantis eggs on Amazon for my garden and they have done well, but I can't seem to find them on Amazon anymore. Would recommend though!
And they're only like $12 including shipping!
500,000 tons of coal ~ 4 billion kilowatt-hours. Say solar panel lifetime is 30 years, producing electricity 8 hours a day. That means you need 45 kilowatts of solar panels. That means you need 22.5 Watts per pound of sand. A 100 Watt solar panel is [16 lbs] (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O). That would mean ~ 25% of a solar panels weight was silicon. Seems about reasonable.
I have a solar panel and power station. In tandem they allow me to power basic electronics. Eventually I'd like to get a generator hooked up to the circuit breaker in the garage and have it automatically switch on. Being in the South, A/C is paramount.
So I'm gonna be that guy and tell you the answer you don't want to hear which is that you're not likely to be able to achieve what you're trying to do in the location you want without some major drawbacks.
Your seeds aren't thriving because they're not getting enough light. You can tell because your sprouts are so leggy (i.e. tall and thin with few/no leaves). When plants first sprout, they come pre-packaged with leaves that are part of the seed that expand as the plant absorbs water and are what collect the initial light energy which the seedling will then use to construct its own true leaves. If the starter leaves are not receiving enough energy, the plant will delay growing new leaves and instead try to grow taller so that those leaves get better light exposure. That's what causes leggy plants, which bring a host of annoying problems, hence why its usually easier to start fresh and make sure they get light from the get-go. Seeds which are getting enough light will produce very little in terms of stem height but will instead use that energy to start producing more leaves right away. Here's a shot of some lettuce (on the right) with zero legginess and bell pepper seedlings sprouted with minimal legginess. Note that the bell pepper seedlings on the left could probably use yet more light.
Artificial lights put out nowhere near as much as natural sunlight unless you get into the really high caliber stuff. To give you an idea on artificial lighting requirements, here's what's lighting part of my herb garden. That fixture has four 24 watt fluorescent bulbs, coupled with angled reflectors above them to maximize the amount of light hitting the plant. If you're interested, here is that light fixture on Amazon. I recommend this regularly to anyone trying to grow using artificial light. Lux output (a measurement of the amount of light per sq ft) from that is ~15,000 lux at an appropriate distance from the plant, which is about what these herbs need to grow. A single 15 watt bulb like yours probably gets into the 3,000 - 5,000 lux range. You also seem to have a cover over the light, which probably reduces the output as well. Another thing to note is you want your light as close as possible to your plants. They shouldn't be touching it, but they should be (for flourescents at least) maybe a few inches from it. Light saturation decreases rapidly with distance, so the further they are, the less oomph they're getting from it. Your lower hanging plants are getting less light for sure.
Keep in mind that different types of plants have different lighting requirements. Leafy plants light herbs and lettuces can sustain themselves off of something like I showed just fine. However anything that produces a fruit or vegetable will need even more light. Like three or four times as much light as the fixture I showed earlier.
Back in the day most people used something like this, a high pressure sodium light, for their indoor fruits/veggies. This one puts out about 45,000 lux. Think like football stadium lights. These things get painfully bright and also get very hot, plus they require a large ballast (power source) to run. You want your plants at least 2 ft from these otherwise they'll burn. Regardless, it's definitely not something you'd want under your sink, since you wouldn't be able to be in the same room when it was on or else you'd be blinded.
The more recent alternative in artificial light is LED lights. These things put out way less lux, but the light they do put out is concentrated on very specific wavelengths which are ideal for plants. I'm using this one to grow tomatoes and bell peppers, and one light is about enough for one, maybe two plants. They don't get hot at all, but their light output is still uncomfortably bright and the color is just dreadful. Imagine a pink so searing that it makes your head hurt. Here's a picture of some bell peppers, taken from the relative shade under the canopy. Definitely not something you want in your kitchen for the same reason as the HPS: you wouldn't want to be in the room when it's turned on. I grow the bell peppers in a light-opaque grow tent and the tomatoes in a closet I converted for that purpose.
My recommendation: forget about the veggies for now. You're not going to get them to grow without a light source which will be impractical under the sink. Stick with herbs, which work just fine under fluorescent light. Up your light output by getting a higher output light fixture. Rearrange how they hang so that all four of your planters are much closer to the light. And start from scratch once you've done so. You might potential save that batch if you got a new light right away, but they'll have gotten a leggy start, so they'll always be slightly deformed.
The analog lid thermometers are unreliable anyway, I never look at mine. Your best bet is a probe thermometer that you can use to monitor the temperature; a dual probe that monitors both cooker and meat temp is even better.
This one is highly recommended by Meathead and I've been using mine for over 4 years now.
"Today a foreign man visiting Tokyo attacked the headquarters of Bandai-Namco with a 'Bug-A-Salt' rifle and was quickly apprehended by unarmed employees."
Bug A Salt!!!! https://www.amazon.com/BUG-SALT-2-0-FLY-GUN/dp/B00STSZ77G
I've been wanting to try and LED grow for a while now. The biggest issue I came across was getting enough true watts at an affordable price.
I think the best bang for buck right now is to build your own DIY COB light setup, but I was lazy and wanted something tangible quickly.
Hunted around on Craigslist and different forums till I found enough new and used LEDs to set up my tent. All LEDs together cost me a total of $320
(Everything but the King Plus LED was used in the tent. I had the 1200w King Plus LED (~250w true) in the veg chamber, but it was burning my current mother plant).
Flower chamber has 3 LEDs running:
The left and right LEDs are:
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 450W (200w true) LEDs
And the middle LED is made by Morsen:
1200w (340w true) Morsen 200x6w LED
The seedling / clone chamber houses 2:
100w BlackStar UFO's
The veg / mother plant chamber runs 2:
Roleadro 300w (~125w true) LEDs
Some 2 foot t5s from Amazon. With all the money I've spent buying single bulb ones I should have invested in one of the big fancy 4 bulb ones, or the big colorful LED lights like this. . :/ I have other succulents under the red/blue/purple LED light bulbs (like this ) and it's making their coloring so pretty. My previously all green succulents are getting more pink and purple coloring.
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK
This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.
iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1
Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1
247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R
These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).
Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK
That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.
Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.
When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:
6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1
Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W
Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.
If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330
But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.
I actually got good results from this light. Some people on other forums shat all over it but it flowered great and its under a 100$ too. In a 2.5X2.5 tent, I've kept my temps at 79-81.
My understanding is that 1) it takes a while for the plant to start taking up the calcium, and 2) the conditions that cause blossom end rot actually set in weeks prior to fruit set.
So with this trick, you really want to do it early (assuming their is even a calcium deficiency in the first place.) I know folks who put a tablet in each planting hole when they transplant! But perhaps a treatment mid-season could alleviate the issue a few weeks later?
Before doing stuff like this, I recommend that people get a soil testing kit. They're cheap and easy to use, and will tell you if your soil really is deficient in certain nutrients or if it's another problem. Blossom end rot is more often not about a lack of calcium, it's that the tomato can't take up what calcium is there due to other factors.
You can get them on Amazon
They sell flamethrowers...
To be fair, tap water commonly has some ions in it - some salt, some rust. Which makes it conductive. Depending on a lake it can be less conductive than tap water. But that "depending" is pretty much the key. Unless you bring solid particle tester with you everywhere - you can't be sure.
It measures the total dissolved solids in the water, which for the most part is what matters, buy one, stick it in the water. If it reads under 50ppm it's fine. If it's over it's no good.
This should help
here, order this. im not sure it would accomplish much but it would be funny as shit if she opened it in her house and freaked out.
If you want to spend 10 bucks, you can buy 1500 ladybugs to check the validity of OP's statement.
Shipping will eliminate most "comically big" items. You get get things like this bag of cereal marshmallows or this box of 1500 live ladybugs under your price limit.
How about a solar panel for all your off-grid hamming needs?
Jesus Christ! You can order these right on Amazon!
THIS is a salt rifle... and it's AWESOME! It has much more power than you'd expect it to.
I have this one with my Eno. Used it at Okeechobee and it was perfect.
I used the Mars Hydro 300 watt LED.Available at Amazon.com on some clones I got back in January.Built a small grow box till the were ready to go outside and they're doing great,I live in western Washington but I would think the same technique would work for you.Put them on about a 20 hour light cycle and move them outside in about a month.http://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Mars300-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464310100&amp;sr=1-Tho1&amp;keywords=mars+hydro+300 This is how how you help people,thoreau.Not with stoopid remarks.
MarsHydro Mars 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum ETL Certification Lighting for Hydroponic Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Growing 132W True Watt Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6JZxzb337HSMP
Don't waste money on those. These are well tested.
I just wrote this in another post in this subreddit yesterday and attached (mostly) a copy here. One caveat: don't use automotive batteries! They are not meant to be deep cycled and will quickly be ruined if you try and use them that way. A less expensive option for batteries are used golf cart batteries (6v) which can be wired up in series and parallel into a configuration which is 12v and a reasonable number of amp-hours.
Here is a 100w solar panel for $170 add a 30A Solar Charger for $90. You will also need an extension cable to get the solar to the charger, a 12v deep cycle battery of 30+ amp-hours $100+ (Here is a really good battery for $230), a small inverter for $53 and some cables to connect the inverter and charger to the battery.
The grand total above would be less than $600 with the expensive battery. Buy it a piece at a time and spread it out over a few months. When you're done the charger is large enough to add 3-4 more of those solar panels. If you do that you should add batteries as well.
For more ideas I would listen to The Survival Podcast episodes with Steve Harris. I don't agree with him on everything but none of his advice is bad.
You don't need to hire an exterminator for an ant problem. You can easily handle it yourself using this.
For future reference, these are incredibly effective. We just annihilated an entire colony that decided to raid our kitchen. It took 3-4 days, but there isn't an ant to be seen now.
works awesome, completely eliminated my ant problem and they never came back,
Terro. You can get them at most home improvement stores. Requires a day or two of patience, but it does the job.
Honestly I thought the same thing, but it was a lot easier than I thought. Without having to wire anything, it was all pretty common handiwork with a drill or a Dremel saw. It's a GardenMate 8 Gal grow bag
I used an Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light
Positronics Auto Express...a little over an ounce. Nice herbal scent. Bought from Sensible Seeds.
Happy Frog Potting Soil 70% Fafard Perlite 30%...get them BOTH at True Value Hardware store for less than twenty bucks. Order online, pick up at the store.
Did not use any medial light strips. DID use Low Stress Training.
Used "The UFO That EVERYBODY Has."
But watch it, keep an eye on it, this is OFTEN on sale.
Used Modified Lucas feed starting one month in...this means a teaspoon of Maxibloom per feeding.
Grew in the basement, and my casa is big enough that I didn't need a carbon filter...kept an ona block outside the door, but I don't know if I even needed that.
This was a nice plant. Well behaved, quiet, low maintenance. Kinda like a Golden Lab without the blonde hairs.
Such a nice plant that I even took it for an occasional walk.
I know you've already been recommended the Maverick thermometer for monitoring cooks, but that's not accurate enough or quick enough for thin meats and not quick enough to use to check multiple items. Also it's low heat rating means it's not for grilling, only for BBQ. Is is really great for low and slow though, it's my favorite accessory I've ever gotten. The ET-733 is their newest one, it's $69.99.
BUT! You also need a reliable, instant read thermometer. This is what you'll use for grilling those steaks and hamburgers and smoking chickens and such. There's lots available, but I really like the thermopop. It's made by the company that makes the ever popular thermopen, just much cheaper. It's almost as quick of a temp read.
LED Grow Light if you want to drop money on a commercial grow light, go LED. Otherwise, you can get T8 or T5 shop lights from your local hardware store, which will work fine.
If you're just doing seed-starting, you genuinely could just use 4-foot shop lights, you're not going to be running them for enough days for the operating cost difference between 70-lumens-a-watt and 100-lumens-a-watt to matter. You don't even need a fancy stand, you can hang them with chain or wire off anything you can find, or mount them under-cabinet in a kitchen - use them part year for seed starting, and part of the year as a handy kitchen detail work light.
As far as your question, if you're paying $3 a pop for plant starts, and you go to paying $3 for a bag of seeds and getting, say, 10 viable plants, then your savings for the grow light are $2.70 a plant, minus the cost of electric. Assuming even $0.10 a plant in electricity, you'd break even at 3 seed packets at 10 plants each, and everything you started with those lights after that point would be mostly money in your pocket.
Here the link to the inline fan
The link to the led light
The link for the reflectix
Bug-A-Salt 2.0 Insect Eradication Gun
I think this is the "A salt weapon" you are looking for conrad.
I hope you're joking.
One human unit of power is equivalent to 600 watt-hours. A "decent" electric car has a 60,000 watt hour battery bank (60 KWh).
The smallest decent portable solar panel is about 100W in size.
So after a full day's worth of charging (sun and no clouds) for six hours on your exercise bike in the woods, you'd be at 1.05 KWh, or 1.75% of battery charge.
According to random internet forums, that would get you about 3 miles of driving in the woods.
Uhh. No, it so can't. It has 100Ah capacity. Rule of thumb for 12v DC to AC conversion is 1 hour @ 100w AC draw = about 10A being pulled from the DC battery. 1000w would run it flat in one hour. Likely much less since that would be a very high discharge rate for such a battery and that generally reduces capacity.
While I admit I don't have a solid answer to your original question in my response I do need to express interest in why you're set on the goal zero platform? They are laughably over priced. The Yeti 1250 is 1600 bucks in Canada, and it's not a generator at all. It's a 12v Absorbent Glass Mat battery with 100Ah capacity, with a 1200w pure sinewave inverter and a Maximum Power Point Tracking solar charge controller. It's all stuck in a box with some connections and a nice display. It doesn't come with a solar panel to charge it at all either.
That 100Ah may seem like a lot, but it's not. Especially considering you shouldn't really discharge a lead acid battery more than 50% So 50 amps a day is all you can pull. About 2 an hour. Depending on the duty cycle of your fridge that's it right there. I'm a big fan of 6 volts for dollar/Ah, and you can grab two T105 Trojan batteries most places for 300 bucks. They are good batteries and can take a lot of abuse. I also like USBattery, and have picked these up in Alberta for 100 each. http://usbattery.com/products/6-volt-batteries/us-2200-xc2-lf/ that's 230 Ah for 200 bucks. My last load test on a pair of heavily abused ones that are about 6 years old now still pull just over 100A before 50% discharge. I can't argue with that quality. That leaves us with 1400 bucks to play with, and more capacity to run things from. Since we saved money on storage, I'd spend the money on a good inverter like this. Naturepower and Go Power should be avoided, but might be available a lot cheaper so by all means take the risk if you wish. That's 1500 watts vs the 1200 from the Goal Zero package. So we now have 800 to spend on a charge controller, a box, and 12v output/input options and a box. A box could be simply constructed with plywood and scrap 2x4's and could probably be sourced in any nearby alley. Charge controllers can be had for very cheap or for a little more depending on your requirements. The charge controller in the Yeti appears to be able to handle 20A, so our 13 dollar and change controller above works. Even factoring wire, nuts, bolts, crimping supplies and the time to build it all you're going to be coming out with 600 bucks in your pocket for solar panels. The Yeti doesn't even come with solar panels. They want TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS for 30w in Canada! Unbelievable! Another 30 bucks gets you more than 3x the charging potential. It's also in a nice aluminum frame suitable for reinforcing and adding hinges for portability should you want to pair it with another with all the money you're saving. There is absolutely no way you'd get me to support their over priced gear when it can be done so simply and cheaply on your own, all with better results.
Edit: the specs on the 30w panel say 2A output max, so they're only 24w peak. That extra 30 bucks on a real panel gets you (barely) more than 4x the charging potential. To max out the 20A capabilities of the Yeti 1250 using 30w panels would cost you 2000 dollars for 10 panels. Two of those 100w panels would be 460 dollars and cover just over 80% of that capacity. But why stop there? We saved 600 bucks, lets buy another pair of batteries for 200 to increase our capacity to 460Ah.
With over 4x the reserve you STILL won't be pulling 1000w for a few hours. Just about though, you might get 4.
My favourite part about this is I hate going retail and it's STILL cheaper to piece it together doing it that way. I could find a better inverter used thanks to the used marine market out in BC, for less, I could source a few used batteries after a load test for cheap. I could DIY panels for cheap using epoxy and reclaimed aquarium glass. About 80c a watt materials included. In Canada that's amazing for a single panel.
All Goal Zero prices were from here http://www.goalzerostore.ca/
The only opinion I can give you with pellet stoves is they are VERY expensive and installation is semi permanent, your landlord might even have to get different insurance if there is a stove pipe jammed out his roof. He's probably not going to be happy with having to duct the cold air supply in either. They are also equipped with hoppers for pellet storage, how long you intend to run it and what model of stove you get depends on how often you have to fill it. They are also electronically controlled, so it will need to be constantly plugged in for the auger to feed pellets into the stove to keep the fire going or between a specific range of temperatures. You want to do this for a month and that's a lot of effort for an experiment. You could probably get away with a propane heater of some kind, along with the appropriate detectors for safety. I wouldn't advise on running that unsupervised at all, and it's not going to be appropriate for cooking like a stove would be.
I can't seem to find the Ah capacity of that battery, but it doesn't look very big. What's the capacity? It won't always be sunny out, so I'd do an energy audit and build up the system such that you can run it for 2-3 days without dipping below 60%.
100W will recharge those batteries, but not very fast. I've only met one legit fulltimer so far IRL, he had a fridge on 100W. It barely ran; I suspect because the batteries were so low it wasn't getting a full 12V.
I went with Renogy 100W panels. I put 7 of them on my van, so I'm sure you can get a crapload of 'em up there. You might prefer a larger panel for simplicity, but balance that against the weight, height you have to lift it, and when one breaks you incur a bigger loss.
The mini fridge won't need too much power. 200W should be fine for that. 100W may be enough if you're careful about your usage and keep everything 12V. My 12V fridge says it pulls 7A @12V, but the reviews indicate it's closer to 3-4A. I barely notice its power draw. I would expect it to be much worse on a 120V dorm fridge.
There are 12V fridges and slow cookers. I hope you'll be getting those in 12V so you don't need to run the inverter all day. A full house-style 120V appliance will use more power, and you'll incur additional overhead from the inverter running. Unless you're on shore power, of course.
You may be able to find a 12V power supply for your laptop, but those are hit-or-miss. With the projector you're basically stuck with 120V. Which is OK as long as it's not a lot of the time.
Of course if you go with the big ("real") solar panels (the ones i linked, or larger), you'll need a charge controller and a bit more complexity. Not sure what your budget and knowledge levels are. The small one you linked has its own controller built in.
Definitely do that energy audit; I think you underestimate your power needs.
We put these around where our cats can't get them. https://www.amazon.com/Terro-T300B-2-Pack-Liquid-Baits/dp/B00E4GACB8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527616027&sr=8-5&keywords=liquid+ant+trap
The ants will go in and drink and they cant get back out.
TERRO Liquid Ant Bait stations are the way to go by far. Using the bait stations is way less messy than using the liquid that you squeeze out a drop.
DO NOT spray the ants with anything. If you spray, you risk blocking the ants from going back to their colony, which could cause them to form a NEW colony inside your house (if there is enough ants already in there). Then you have double trouble. The same goes for diatomaceous earth or other "barriers" which can divide the ants inside your house, from the colony outside.
Just use the TERRO ant bait, which is nothing but sugar water and borax. The ants take this back to the colony and share it with others, which kills off the entire colony at its source. You'll notice ants going in to the bait station within a few hours, then you'll notice a lot of ant activity, then you'll notice dead ants everywhere, then you'll see no more dead ants - the remaining live ones bring the dead ants back to the colony to eat.
These work GREAT and are the first line of defense. If using one of these bait stations doesn't help within ~72 hours, call an exterminator.
Using this thing.
No problems with it so far! Just flipped the fan around so it works as an outtake instead of intake and good to go.
Here’s my light set up
You can buy a used full sized fridge for 50-100 dollars.
Get this temp controller: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B01MDSWXY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486504898&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=inkbird
Get a seed heating pad.
If you look at the temp controller you will note it has a plug for hot and cold, plus a temp prob. Install seed page on side of firdge. Plug temp controller into wall, plug fridge into cold plug, and seed pad in hot plug, set temps and you should be good to go.
Getting professional testing takes a couple weeks.
I used this one off Amazon; gives results in a few minutes. It told me that my soil was completely depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. I threw down a bunch of Urea and Phosphate; my research said to not worry about potassium. And then I put down a ton of composted manure to fix the soil structure and add some organic material because my soil was heavy on clay (yours looks heavy on sand and could probably use it as well. Then I rented a tiller and went to town.
I don't remember how much fertilizer I put down, but I based it off recommendations I found on the internet easy enough. For compost I used approximately 4 cu ft per 100 sq ft of lawn.
I can't say whether or not it made a difference, but my lawn is about 2 months old and it looks amazing.
I think the banjo burner is the best solution. I’ve used one for years in the backyard of my apartment in Brooklyn, NY.
Bayou Classic KAB4 High Pressure Banjo Cooker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gaYVDbQDWS0F6
The issue with jet burners (or anything that puts out a small, blowtorch-like flame) is uneven heating which could lead to scorched wort.
Just buy a burner if you don't care about the pot you could get a better for around the Same price.I have this guy and it's awesome
Id rather use hard water than soft water. Too much salt buildup kills plants.
Take a sample to your local fish store if possible (Or purchase a PPM/PH meter) to find out your PPM and PH.
Anything above 300ppm gets a little sketchy and you will want an RO system.
PH can be altered but anything over a PH of 9 you will be using a ton of PH down.
If your PH and PPM are both below what I stated above I would still recommend something like a Small Boy filter for Chlorine/Chloramine and undissolved particles.
Murder machines http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=ladybugs&amp;qid=1462558996&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
I have no need for for that many ladybugs, but it seemed like such a good deal so I got two orders.
Sometimes they do. You can buy ladybugs for pest control.
Unfortunately, when you start introducing one animal to control the population of another, you run the risk of having an out-of-control population of a new animal. If you're not lucky, the new animal can take over the local ecosystem & start out-eating & out-reproducing native species, upsetting the whole balance.
As a rule, we try to avoid introducing potentially invasive species into new environments.
Ladybugs will fix your problem. Seriously. You can buy some on Amazon
If you're talking about something like this, note it it's actual current draw is 128W. As a beginner you should be able to achieve .25-.5g/watt with a blurple light. They aren't nearly as efficient as the HLG light I linked, so expect quite a bit more heat.
If you want to be as cheap as possible, you can get a duct fan - but they suck and are loud and they break.
options for lights:
i don't recommend it, but if you want cheaper lights:
my 2 cents, get the HLG 100 (or 135 for more yield) with a good 4 inch inline fan and a good 4 inch carbon filter
if you can't afford it now, wait til you can. your first harvest will pay it all off and you'll save money and a whole lot of head ache in the long run.
This is the light I got:
Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TtlOzbXWSYYMW
I also just picked up a cheap $9 timer on amazon. Works like a champ. I keep mine on from 9:30am to 9:30pm
Edit: here is the timer
Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AvlOzbW25N6CN
The names on those LEDs can be misleading, they don't reflect the actual power draw, you need 200w of the cheaper LED or about 120w of high end LED.
Something like this is ok, something like this would be ideal.
About the intake being passive or not that depends on the temps of the room it'll be in and if the exhaust is venting outside the room, you'll probably be ok with just a vent hole.
>I originally wanted to do things as cheap as possible and using lots of regular household bulbs, but after some research I decided against that.
good shit OP.
the light you're looking at is outdated and will not actually draw anywhere near 300w from the wall, probably closer to about 140w. for another $20 you can get this light that will draw around 220w from the wall, and the COB LEDs it uses will have a higher efficacy than the one youre looking at. still not as good as a DIY COB build but its much better than the one you linked and will do a great job for one or two plants.
dont bother with the 7w desk lamp, put that extra $20 toward the light i linked.
I have this one and it is great. I'm using it to grow 2 plants and they seem to love it. Here's a chart for the distance.
At that price point, I would go for something like:
Roleadro 400w COB
200 watts actual draw power, and should be decent for 2 plants for under $90.
That purple light is EIGHTY WATTS. 80w. EIGHT ZERO.
Actually it says 70w even lower on the same page.
Get this instead https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076QDKVDZ
65w of QB lighting will beat the fucking SHIT out of that 80w (or 70w) purple light for not too much more money.
you can also go to alibaba and get even more watts on a QB for not too much more.
It was actually a salt pistol. But I see how CNN might get confused because "a salt" and "assault" are easy to confuse.
When in doubt, don't. I can recommend a stand that's only ~$50.
I use this at home. It's fairly lightweight for being a bunch of metal tubes and fits into a travel bag about 3 feet long. Not made specifically for camping, but it's cheaper and doesn't require you to run over it...
Masterstroke: Bug-A-Salt but it's CIWS
Found it for you, right here
You need to buy a bug-a-salt: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y1Q5Bb92WGDYD
[Salt rifles are also used to kill flies while grilling] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T9WIzbJYZKB4D) so it's like a triple pun.
I got this for Christmas and I've been using it for the past week staying at a friends house. I'm using an ENO double nest, and so far it's just a touch more cramped than the hooks I use embedded in my bedroom wall.
Best ChoiceProducts Space Saving Steel Hammock Stand 9' Outdoor Patio Portable with Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KfTCybK6WAKHN
Not sure on your financial situation but I purchased this hammock stand and received it in the mail yesterday. I set it up at home and laid in my hammock and it worked well. Easy set up and seems sturdy, however I'm a pretty thing guy. Should do the trick. See ya on the farm!
Best ChoiceProducts Space Saving Steel Hammock Stand 9' Outdoor Patio Portable with Carrying Case
google/youtube setting up hammocks with trekking poles... or hammocking above the treeline... its a pretty common challenge and their are a few different solutions... id warn against trying to tie off to the rv anywhere. not much on them that can withstand the horizontal force that your hammock will put on it.
edit: another option that might work for you is a hammock stand. it will definitely be the easiest, but youll have to spend a few bucks. the bonus is you can use it at home in the back yard.. but youll probably have plenty of room in the rv. https://smile.amazon.com/Best-ChoiceProducts-Hammock-Portable-Carrying/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499288044&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hammock+stand
Mine were from eBay for about $60. Here's an amazon link with virtually the same thing! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_paH7ybD1B9118
Do you care to link me to the ones you have? I've been looking at a lot of them on Amazon but there's so many options and it's hard to tell about the quality.
For anyone interested, this is the hammock stand I ordered. It has almost perfect reviews, assembles and disassembles in less than 3 minutes, is perfectly made for ENO hammocks, and is the exact right size to fit under a 10x10 EZ-Up. It's also way cheaper than the other options.
While I really like the wood look of yours. What made you go with the wood vs something like this? I'd assume more longevity out of the metal for cheaper? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WFH3TIG
Without seeing pictures of your setup, I'd make a wild guess that they needed a ton more light. As an example, here's a popular light - https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B00XC3LBI2 - and it is advertised as being for a 2' x 2' growing area (though I think you could get more out of it than that, especially if you made some sort of grow tent equivalent. It's easy to underestimate just how much light plants need.
Growing from seeds will be more difficult and create lots of new hurdles to overcome, if you're still getting comfortable with plants I'd just pick up some seedlings.
However, you mention that you'll be a homeowner, so you might just consider growing your herbs outdoors. Not all of those herbs are perennial (basil is an annual, it will set seed which you can harvest but then it's gonna die), but you could also harvest and dry the herbs so you could have them in the off season if you cannot keep your cats away.
Another or additional option is to grow cat grass and catnip to distract the cats and give them something else to be excited about, and also give them vertical shelves away from your plants to play on or even a catio. Lots of times cats get into indoor plants because they are bored and need more stimulation. Plants and soil are full of interesting smells. Hope this helps.
Two of these
MarsHydro Mars300 LED Grow Light Full Spectrum ETL Certification Lighting for Hydroponic Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Growing 132W True Watt Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yESpzbYAM44BP
Or two of these
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iFSpzbQGSR3SX
If I was really trying to go for the bare-minimum cost setup I'd have it in a closet and here's what I'd do:
The hardest decision would probably be lighting... I'd advise you either go the CFL route (look it up on growweedeasy.com) or a cheap LED light from Amazon. You can get a 180W draw light from Amazon for $66, and it's decent, not the best, but you can surely go from seedling to harvest with them. MarsHydro is a well-known and relatively reliable brand: https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Certification-Hydroponic-Greenhouse/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506140832&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=led+grow+light
The last thing you will really need is ventilation. To start you can just use some small-fan you may have laying around but later the odor will become an issue. You can make your own carbon filter for cheap, or you can buy one. I believe you can get a basic carbon filter/fan combo for around $50 online.
Get a better light, dude. It's the one thing that directly correlates to yield. You got all this awesome stuff (tent, filter, plants with good genetics) but have a light meant for a closet bagseed grow. Go with something like this and you've got a much better shot at being successful.
Have you verified these are ACTUALLY 54 watt?
There is an epidemic of LED retailers straight up lying about the power on their lights.
Lights will often advertise at 50 watts for instance when it actually pulls 12 watts, or something. When cornered on it, they skirt the issue by saying it's "equivalent" to a 50 watt traditional bulb.
It's bullcrap, its a big problem, its very hard to avoid.
When considering an LED light, i always read through comments until i find someone who threw it on a watt meter to get an actual wattage.
Like others have said, plants only need a few things. Nutrients, water, light, and CO2.
Seems like the missing link here is the light.
Here's the light i bought, and have had pretty good luck with it:
Nice cheap light
Personally I like soil. Easier to diagnose and remedy in my opinion. Can't cheap out on the soil though. Fox farm gives good results and can be found at almost every nursery or online.
Heard decent things about this
If you can squeeze any extra money out I'd put it into the lights.
Also check the side bar and all this stuff can be found in there. I just smoked so I'm feeling especially helpful lol.
Anyway remember it's a weed and will grow you just have to have the patience to let it. Also remember to have fun.
Good places to start.
Hey dude - I'm in the middle of flower on my first grow and think I can help out a bit here.
Not sure if you're already on this site but growweedeasy.com is an incredible free resource
You could easily do one plant in a tent like this or go bigger and do a 48" x 24"
As for LED's in that range, most people seem to like either the mars hydro or viparspectra (I'm currently using an mh/HPS light)
Panda film draped over the back just for purposes of this picture; other side is reflective white & will be used to cover the whole shelving unit.
Shelves are 30" x 14" by 60" high. Lights are each Mars300's. Air pots are 1' cubes, about 7.5 gallons each.
Did I get the wrong pots? I'm also thinking of maybe using ratcheting straps around the shelf poles to hold the containers in place better, maybe scrunch 3 together by extending the bottom shelf a bit.
Other thing: the panda film. I'm thinking about trying to glue or epoxy magnetic stripping on some to create a removable panel, but I doubt the magnets will hold well.
Any feedback or ideas appreciated!
This guide is pretty comprehensive
If you want a super quick start, get some nutrients (I recommend General Hydroponics), 2-3" net cups, rock wool, and hydroton/clay pebbles.
Plant seed in rock wool, put rock wool in net cup, fill the remainder with hydroton, place net cup in a container with some water in it (kratky method), and start watering it until the roots touch the water.
Buddy we need to talk. Get this at the very least..
General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dm.yDbM96AZS2
Past this grab this and you will have a decent perfectly colored harvest. Though there is much much more you can add to get a better harvest..
General Hydroponics CALiMAGic Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZRKI40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_on.yDbHNH497S
I used Fox Farms Ocean Forest with General Hydroponics 3 Part Nutrients. Initially I fed until it ran through every other day but that required removing the plant from the bucket. As she got bigger, I opted to feed her 4 cups once daily as removing her from the bucket was difficult. I eventually made that watering tube which made things a lot easier.
Unfortunately I didn't have the foresight to measure from soil to the tallest plant but I would estimate was 24".
I just transferred some Bell peppers into my system today. Below is the solution I used. Used about 5ml per gallon to get my water around 1400 ppm as I read somewhere they should in the 1400 to 1700 range. I'm just getting into hydroponics myself, and haven't tried peppers before so I've got no idea if this works or not. I did use this for some kale and lettuce and it worked very well (which I understand is totally different). Fingers crossed that I didn't just murder my sprouts. Would be curious to see if anyone else uses this or not.
I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!
I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
This is my first time growing, so please feel free to critique/rip into my setup, as I really appreciate all the help and knowledge! I actually ordered my seeds from JAHseeds a year ago, but never got my shit together enough to actually do anything with them.
I do want to take a quick moment to thank u/AFK_ing for the seeds first, as they were actually gifted to me for free. I placed an order on a whim one night, and then completely forgot about it. Turns out that JAHseeds never ended up depositing the interac transfer I sent them, so it inevitably expired. I had forgotten about the order completely, when out of the blue one day I received a letter in the mail complete with 12 free seeds and a handwritten 'apology' letter. This absolutely floored me, and left me feeling super warm and fuzzy inside. I've been cherishing the seeds up until now, so I'm really really happy that I can finally bring them to life :) Anyways....thank you JAHseeds!
Onto the setup! Currently running:
2x alibaba 240w QB
Promix HP + 2inch layer of worm castings on the bottom
Strain is The Best My seeds are not feminized however, so still unsure of sex.
Right now they are in 1 gallon pots and I'm planning on moving them into 7 gallon fabric pots when the time is right.
I kinda went ham one night and bought the entire GH nutrient lineup (including all the additives....) so I'm planning on sticking to their schedule (halved) throughout the grow. I know I could have done without a lot (most) of them, but yeah it was still cheaper than buying an Oz from the LP....Currently only feeding them water.
The tent is a GA 48x48x80, with a Vivosun 6 inch duct fan and carbon filter
Holmes Lil' Blizzard fan (this thing moves a lot of air)
I originally had a smaller tent so I started out germinating 3 seeds by dropping them in a glass of water for 36 hours. After they all popped, I planted them directly into coco pots. At that time I decided to change to a larger tent, so I dropped 2 more seeds into a glass of water to germinate. 36 hours later one of the seeds had popped, but not the other. I planted the one that popped, and left the other in the water for another 12 hours. At this time it still hadn't popped, so I just dropped it into a pot with the others. The one that never popped didnt end up coming through the soil until about 2 days ago (I was actually just about to give up on it). It's the tiny coco pot in the middle. Pretty sure it's gonna be a retard plant but whatever, I'll give it some love and care. Don't tell Justin. The nice healthy plant on the bottom right is the other seed that I germinated with it at the same time.
Close up shot 1
Close up shot 2
tl;dr i love you all
I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish
It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.
Hello, nice to see another female around here. :)
I say go for it, you can always upgrade along the way. Being illegal, you need a sealed environment with a filter and fan. May I recommend a small setup?
$60 - 2x2 tent (I have this, high quality)
$34 - carbon filter (I also have this, works great, no smell outside the tent)
$18 - 100 cfm fan, works for this size tent and filter
$180 - decent Amazon light that will get good results in a 2x2 (if you don't want to DIY)
$12.50 - Fox Farms soil
6*32 = $192.
First, shout out to u/exploitingsoil for all of your help and advice! Here's my question, I have this light. I just switched to flower two days ago and there are two light switches labeled "veg" and "flower" I assume I should only have the flower switch on during flower, but it seems so much dimmer and I'm worried it will hinder growth with it off. Can I leave both spectrums on during flower our should I just have the one flower switch on? Thanks in advance!
bought this ViparSpectra 600w year a ago, still works but it's been collecting dust now. Wanted to convert this using Vero 29 COBs.
How many Vero 29s can I run on this? With 2 drivers @ 140-180 output voltage each? and at 700ma or is that voltage combined 280-360v? Can I run 10 Veros? because it'll be running at a soft current of 700ma. I'm a bit confused on the final number.
At full blast the unit was pulling
285272 watts, 121v, 2.2amps from the wall. thanks
South facing windows don't provide even light, you need to rotate the tree to keep them from leaning too heavily. This means they don't get as much light as if they were outside. This means health will be compromised over time.
Grow lights of sufficient power are not ridiculously cheap. I have this one and this one. The first I use for seedlings as it isn't powerful enough to provide enough light to developed tree. The second I use seasonally if it gets too cold as I don't have room for a greenhouse.
You may be able to find cheaper used equipment, especially older stuff like CCFLs and MH/HPS. But those have a whole host of problems from heat management to spectrum and intensity issues.
Depending on where you keep the light, you may also need to worry about temperature and humidity. I use a small grow tent to help control both temp and humidity, but this also adds additional expense.
All this, just to mimic conditions that are generally readily available outside.
> Never said it was just as viable either but to deny like everyone preaches in this sub, it is what then?
You originally said
> you will come across many people who have grown years or decades indoor. It's an elitist opinion that it can only be outdoor.
This presents a view of indoor and outdoor as a choice of little consequence. aka they are equally viable.
> Moreover, stop referencing horticulturists unless you can quote one chiming in on the topic of bonsai, else that's just talk.
fine, here's a bonsai professional with a degree in horticulture:
> So there are clients that have found situations where they’re capable of cultivating these indoors, but it’s an extremely challenging thing to do. We also end up potentially designing the space in which their trees are held.
Wanted to check in with the knowledgeable folks here just to make sure everything looks right. First grow so this is somewhat basic. Plan to go bigger and upgrade to some better stuff next grow or so. This was planted from a bag seed I found. Planted on Nov 5 into a coco expanding puck. Transplanted as soon as it sprouted (puck and all). Still can't tell if female or male, but if it's male I've learned a ton so I'm not too worried.
Current set up is:
Pots (Have the 5 gallon to grow into): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPCTDH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Medium: Fox Farms Oceans Forest (luckily a local store sells it)
Nutes: Fox Farm Trip (local again)
A lot of LED grow lights are purple. I don't know why offhand but I assume it's because plants reflect green and yellow, so they focus on the wavelengths that actually get absorbed.
something like this would be plenty i would think for such a small space. 2x2 would be enough room for like 1 plant https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481505465&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=300w+grow+light+led
I'm told the Feit bulbs are good, available via amazon, if you have a gooseneck lamp.
I use this, but it is somewhat overkill unless you have a plant rack with quite a few succs - I've been told by another user that its effective for two levels of his rack. Its also a bit pricier then what many wish to pay(although it is a bit cheaper then some led panels of similar size).
Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
Plenty of options
4 inch duct
Can find anywhere
Jewelers loop (super important)
To dry your buds
Surge protectors and ext cords
A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.
Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_orVdAbNJNCRHE
Yescom 225 White LEDs Grow Light Panel Hydroponics Ultrathin Lamp for Growing Room Tent Greenhouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YX8ZF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ysVdAbNC2PZNY
This is the guide that got me started, it's pretty comprehensive. The only think I would suggest different is getting these net pots instead of the ones they suggest.
If you have a sunny windowsill you can just put it there. If you want to grow year round or in the basement / darker room I would recommend a light like this
I agree, just pick up an inexpensive led like this one and it'll be fine for your purposes.
DETAILS ON SET UP
Light: Roleadro 300W LED light
Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell
Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent
Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights
A fan speed controller
3-gallon smart pots
A humidity and temp sensor
Plus a small clip on fan.
I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.
I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.
That 600W led isn't a horrible option but very likely to be bottom tier chinese stuff considering not a brand in sight. Best possible option for your $100 would be something like 2 x Cree 3070 COBs $~25 each and a meanwell driver ($50-60~) but this is a bit of electronics and soldering which isn't everyone's cup of tea. May take some research but you'll get vastly better results for your money than anything else at this price, period.
Otherwise there's a brand on Amazon called 'Roleadro' which exist somewhere between Shit-tier chinese and decent quality stuff. The newer ones even use COBs
Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.
My "starter package" is:
So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
The 400w (200 w actual) Roleandro COBs are down to $85 at Amazon
I ended up buying this cob 400w $100 I think it's still on sale as well.
Or this ;)
I just bought this light and it is the best light I have owned but it's more expensive and not what I started out with.
For someone starting out I would get something like this which is 300 true watts or this which is around 260 true watts. Both are going to make your closet hotter so you may have to get an intake/exhaust fan but they will give you 10x better yield. I have grown with both of them.
I also have a few of these which will still be way better than what you have currently however these blurple lights get a lot of flack from people and weren't my personal favorite. But for $59 right now on Amazon that's a pretty good deal for 165 true watts.
Here's my first grow doing what you are doing
Here's my second grow using the lights I suggested
Edit: If you think you are going to get into growing and take it serious in the future get the light I linked first. It was around $150 after shipping and it takes some diy to put together but it will run way cooler than the other lights and is 15x better than any of the Amazon lights for $50-$100 more. If I could go back and do it again I would get rid of all the Amazon lights and spend the money on some nice quantum boards.
I would go for a ceramic metal hallide, you can get one for 300 here http://www.growersc.com/gc315 . If you have your heart set on led, I personally would go with the roleadro you can actually get a 400w cob for 99 right now https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I4NY8KW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483584448&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Roleadro&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QlQ1zJjPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Get that light or two of them, and use them for the first grow then move it into a veg tent so you can do a perpetual setup. I cannot stress enough how shitty these blurple lights make everything look, you cannot tell what color anything is. I already have the setup your looking for. Its way more expensive than you think.
If you have these hanging in the open they will annoy you with it's blue/purple colors and are not good for your eyes. Try getting full spectrum LED.
Look up Quantum boards from horticulture lighting group or Atreum Boards, Amazon may not have them. They are generally more efficient and give off nice white light which will not annoy you and even brighten up the room!
A Quantum Board 65 Kit (65Watt real draw) is about 100$ and available on Amazon and should be enough for a first light but probably underpowered for 4x4 but for half shaded plants this will work fine. Most use them to grow weed which likes a lot of light. Veg/bloom switches are mostly for weed, yes.
But sure, the QB are a bit bare and not that pretty yet really lightweight aesthetically...so who knows.
The Maxsisun 300W has about 130W real draw (the 300W is misleading since it's just an euivalent to HPS lights. So it draws 130W which is equivalent to a 300W HPS light) but is probably less efficient than the QB.
I'm growing Chilis with a DIY Fixture with full white LED comparable to the QB ones. I started out with a Viparspectra 300W (basically same as the Maxisun) so i know em both. Gonna take the Viparspectra apart soon to exchange the LED to full white ones. Will never touch the blue/purple lights again :D
The more you spend, the better the light. The better the light, the better the plant. The better the plant, the more you yield. The more you yield, the more cost effective the operation is.
Cheapest option. Buy two:
Best option within your price range:
What are you going to do with it? Unless you buy an inverter and a battery then all you really have is 4 shitty panels and a cheap ass charge controller. This is just a come-on price that suckers you into buying more things that you need to make it work. And at the end of the purchases, you could've built something better if you started with quality parts. Why not buy similarly priced stuff in better quality? Buy a good panel and charge controller. That way if you ever want to add to the system, you can.
Hi quality solar panel 100 Watt/12v
Hi quality charge controller.
Only 50 bucks more and you the beginnings of a modest system.
I've had good luck with the Renogy Panels from amazon and the price isn't too bad at all.
Edit: and they went down by 5 bucks since I bought one last week!
I went to a bug & weed mart, they recommended some gel baits since I had ants coming in the house getting into the animal food. They recommended these gel tray things, I was skeptical but nothing was working so I tried it. Within 24 hours the ants were gone and they have been gone for over a year. It was similar to this or this
I find that Terro liquid works great on those little sugar ants. Put the bait out and watch them swarm to it within 30 minutes (it's kind of creepy how fast they find it). You'll see a huge number of ants at first, but don't be tempted to kill them. Let them take the bait back to the nest, and eventually they will disappear.
I'm using the cheap UFO LED that can be had from Amazon (usually for around $100 US).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YK18TP/ref=twister_B07JVPSVD9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 thats the one I used in the spacebucket. but if I could do it again. I may have gone with the apollo one https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GL60LED-Spectrum-Growing/dp/B00FGFW0XO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=180w+led+grow+light&amp;qid=1556217120&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
My new mini tent I got a 300w Marshydro eco now though.
For my spacebucket I use this light Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light for Plant Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGFW0XO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tisQCbW3PBARR
How about this one?
Honestly, I was really hoping this was a joke post. Years back we went to my sister-in-law's family for Thanksgiving and saw her "I'm the patriarch of this household" dad pull the turkey out and give that pop out thing a few flicks before shoving it back in the oven. I knew right then that it was going to be a disappointing meal.
I'm kind of amazed that anyone would be getting into smoking without some kind of legit thermometer set up. Looks like the entry level Maverick remote thermometer has gotten fancier since I got mine - the one I have has been totally solid for the last several years. Highly recommended, I wouldn't ever try smoking something without it.
I've used Maverick's wireless probs for a long time. Never had a problem with them. http://www.amazon.com/Maverick-Range-Wireless-Smoker-Thermometer/dp/B00FOCR4UI/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462129868&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=bbq+thermometer
Same here. The iGrill Mini was the first thermometer I bought when I started smoking. The thing is a piece of shit. Range is maybe 10 feet and it disconnects all the time. I bought this Maverick one and it's amazing. I can set up my smoke and go back to bed. The range is awesome.
Can confirm - I smoked a pork shoulder in Chicago about a month ago - it was super windy and way below 32F outside. Grill maintained a constant 250F inside but I used a ton more wood than normal.
A meat thermometer + ambient temperature thermometer like this will be your best friend for this.
The alarm is loud enough to wake a deep sleeper from slumber (I slept through most of the smoke and only woke to add fuel)
I've asked for a Roku Streaming Stick and a book so far.
If he likes BBQ, a thermometer is a MUST if he doesn't have one (you usually want both an internal and instant-read). Also, no man would every turn down a bitchin chef's knife.
I bought this one a few years ago and it's still going strong. You could fit 16 cups on it
Try one of these! I've got one for my warm growing orchids.
First of all - if you are building this kit from disparate parts and sending along - you are a killer Secret Santa. Secondly, I would go soilless if gifting, there is this stuff which needs to be soaked, but keeps the indoor grow clean, and is helpful if your recipient is in a high rise or somewhere else that soil isn't easily accessible. I might also consider sending one of these in case they are germinating in a basement or somewhere cold. I use this seed company and have yet to be disappointed by price or quality - that salad mix is my favorite general purpose green too.
For my similar setup, I have two [GalaxyHydro 300 (145 actual)] (https://www.amazon.com/Galaxyhydro-Greenhouse-Indoor-Hydroponic-Lighting/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485533547&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=galaxyhydro+led). However after what I have been reading on here If I did it all over I would have gotten a single [MarsHydro like this] (https://www.amazon.com/MarsHdyro-Reflector144-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Spectrum/dp/B00XBYHOTC/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485533640&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=mars+hydro) instead. I go with LED because I sometimes need to be away for a couple days at a time and knowing that I can place my hand on the LED and not get burned helps me feel comfortable knowing I won't torch my plants on accident.
Aha, I did see that one. I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PH1MQV8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2L94QV6P0R9ON&amp;psc=1
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "one"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
I use one that I buy off Amazon and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=lp_3480689011_1_2?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538146559&amp;sr=1-2
You local university may also have a lab where you can send a sample for testing. They usually do not cost much https://ag.umass.edu/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/fact-sheets/sampling-instructions-for-routine-soil-analysis
soil test, amend as needed. clay is usually acidic, require lime added but there's only so much you should add each time so it might take a while to get it just right.
add compost. lots and lots of compost. you can till then add compost and till again, if you're buying enough. otherwise you can just dump on top like 2 inches, which is still going to be a truck load.
for drainage, look into dry wells, including building a trench dry well--essentially a trench with stone.
then once you establish a lawn, aerate on a regular basis and never let it dry out completely. continue to soil test and amend as needed yearly.
edit: also, once you do your soil test, you can either amend the soil to grow what you want OR just plant what grows in the soil you have. Daylilies generally grow well in clay.
Rapitest 716756 1601 Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qDjzCbR5W60SH
One of these kits
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FiB2CbBR66TS5
Or you could buy a simple soil test kit for like, $15 at you're local gardening store. Or even just look up nutrient deficiency symptoms. For instance- I can tell you with 100% certainty that this is NOT a nitrogen deficiency, because those deficiencies show only in older leaves, and the young leaves here are affected as well. However, it could be a magnesium deficiency.
Adding amendments just to see if they help is not only wasteful, but can be very detrimental to the environment. There are plenty of ways to make more informed choices. If it is, in fact, salt burn- then OP could actually make matters worse by fertilizing.
Those soil pH meters are very inconsistent and worthless. You need to test the water & feeding water with either a quality pH meter, or pH testing drops. Those plants look like they are in rough shape and I'd be willing to bet the issue is pH related. If you want to test the pH of your soil then THIS is what I use for that.
I used turkey fryers like the ones you linked for a while, but I got tired of the long times to get to a boil, especially when there was any wind or it was very cold outside. I switched to a banjo burner (Blichmann Top Tier), and never looked back. I LOVE that burner. It heats really fast, and seems to use less propane. Banjo burners aren't more efficient than the burner you have from a combustion standpoint, but I swear that the design ensures more of the heat gets to the kettle rather than into the surrounding air. Plus, I can easily convert it to natural gas if there is a connection nearby.
The Top Tier is a little overkill for most applications, honestly. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably get KAB4. It has the same burner as the Blichmann, and can also be converted to natural gas, if you desire. It's pricey compared to your burner, though.
8 gallon kettle. I was doing a 6 gallon boil. Should have added another 1/2 gallon and reduced my temp a bit as about 2ish gallons evaporated off during boil.
I was right outside my garage but I have seen many other people brewing outside. And yes since it is boiling I'm not too worried about contaminants.
I don't know much about burners but that one looks a bit flimsy. The ones I have weighs almost as much as a full tank of propane. Maybe 5lbs less or so. It's pretty stout. Just saw the name in my pictures. I am using a Bayou Classic burner. Found it online here: http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398888480&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Bayou+Classic+burner
And here it is from my LHBS site: http://www.learntobrew.com/store/item/392ma/-_Stock_Pots_and_Burners/Bayou_Classic_Banjo_Cooker_with_Hose_Guard_Model_KAB4.html
A couple changes I made to the standard design:
2' column instead of 500mm. Because 'murica, that's why! Similarly, the condenser jacket is 28" instead of 600mm and the inside of the condenser is 36" instead of 800mm.
Fluoroelastomer gasket for the keg-column connection. This stuff is rated for steam applications up to 400°F.
3/4" condenser with a 1" jacket.
At the suggestion of /u/sillycyco, a twisted piece of copper at the top of the condenser to slow the gas flow (I can't find copper wool ATM).
*A 45° elbow at the bottom to let the condensed stuff drop straight down into the collector. This is probably just paranoia on my part.
The burner underneath is a monster: 210000 btu! If I wasn't an idiot, I'd have gotten the one with the wider base so the keg would fit better. I'm probably going to need to build a stand, but this is working for now.
I have that burner, it works. However, a friend has a burner with a frame shaped like this one and it seems to be more efficient at directing more heat at the bottom of the pot and letting less escape up the sides of the pot. Our burners have the same exact gas manifold (his frame is just shaped like the one below, it doesn't have that fancy manifold).
YOU WANT A POT WITH A TRIPLE CLAD BOTTOM. The pot you linked to doesn't appear to have that. It distributes heat much better and prevents overheating at the bottom.
I use an 8.75 gallon pot for 5.5 gallon batches, cost me $60 shipped on ebay. This one is nicer than the one you linked to:
I would get a KAB4 burner. It straddles the line between performance and price IMO. $80.00
For the kettle I would go a little bigger than 8 gallons, because the price difference isn't all that great. Plus if you plan to do BIAB you really need a bigger kettle. If your handy you could buy this one and add your own valve. If your not confident about drilling the hole and doing the work yourself, heres one with a valve included obviously that a little more expensive. $114.00
I like the vintage shop fermonster carboys. They are plastic and easy to clean. These are actually cheaper at my LHBS. $34.00
And Last you need either need a Bag for your kettle for BIAB or you could go the cooler route and get a bag for your cooler for MIAB.
The MIAB option is a little pricer but I prefer having a separate vessel for Mashing because theres less lifting to do and doing a sparge is a bit easier that way. So Another $43.50
And you can pick up a cooler at most Big box stores for like $20.00
That clocks in at $291.50 so just under budget.
coming from a guy that has been on the SP10 for over a year, spend the extra $30 and get the bigger Banjo style burner. it puts out way more heat and less time will be wasted waiting for strike temps and boils.
also, not sure if you are set on the keggle but having gallon markings on the inside of the kettle is amazing for BIAB, since you do everything in one vessel. it makes measuring out your strike water super easy. i have a 15 gal SS brewtech with the markings and its amazing. AIH has a 15 gal with markings for $119 and they offer the option of adding on a ballvalve for $28.
After a 5 gal boil in the house the windows and walls were wet with condensation and my wife noticed and it has been propane and outdoor brewing ever since. I would recommend not messing around and just get the following burner to start. I have a collection of cheaper ones but they all burn a little poorly, making soot. I just picked up my second one of these babies so I can heat the both mash waster and the boil in style:
Bayou Classic KAB4 High Pressure Banjo Cooker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYQY/
If you get a larger kettle, you will want a propane burner. Stovetops aren't all that effective at boiling 7-9 gallons of wort, especially electric and glass (shudder) stove tops. Get one that can put out more heat than you need: the price difference is worth it. This one I've heard excellent things about an is at a very good price. Although my burner setup is different, the burner and regulator is the exact same and works fantastic.
If you're ever going to consider doing BIAB, a 10.5 gallon pot may not cut it. You'd be close in total volume and likely need to do a dunk sparge to get the most out of it. However, if you had a 15 gallon kettle, you'd have more than enough space to do what you need. This would be perfect and allow you to add a ball valve.
RIMS and HERMS are for very advanced brewers who want complete control over mash temperatures during an intense multi-rest mash. Many homebrewers don't even consider going this route, even if they've brewed for years. It's also a more expensive investment and likely requires an electric setup. Just ignore it for now.
Depends on your definition of cheap, but the Bayou KAB4 goes on sale for ~$70-75 pretty regularly.
From what I can tell, there are four kinds of propane burner heads.
The BG-14 - aka "Banjo burner" as seen on the KAB4
The BG-12 - as seen on the SQ14
the BG-10 - as seen on the SP10
and the jet burner - as seen on the SP1
Personally, I have two of the BG-10s, from Academy Sports, and they do rather well for me on a 5-gallon batch. Though, I will admit, that this winter I was gifted a banjo burner from my grandfather, it's been in his basement for 40+ years, and he used to use it for crab steaming. I can't wait to hook it up and see how she sings!
For that much money, I'd look for something with a better stand to support the weight.
Also, you can get something in the "banjo-style" burner range for just a few dollars more. Much better stand as well.
And the new Anvil burner, at just a very few dollars more, looks really nice. I like the idea of having the regulator on the front of the burner stand, not at the tank.
I bought a KAB4 burner. There are cheaper propane burners out there, but they are slower/lower BTU. The KAB4 is the same base banjo burner in a lot of the high end burners - like the edelmetal bru or the blitchmann hellfire - just with a different frame and at about half the price.
Since doing the kettle and the burner would probably hurt the budget too much, another option would just be to go with a turkey fryer setup. It'll be a smaller/crappier kettle and a worse burner, but something like this would get you going on larger batches for about $50
This is on sale right now, it was a homebrew find posted on November 1st. I just ordered one.
You can't go wrong with the Blichmann, but if you want to save yourself about $50 you can pick up the KAB4
Kind of... but not so much.
[this should help]
Grab a TDS meter and see what the water looks like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hi.xDbFM7VJRA
RO/DI water is great to use!
After you transplant leave your light off for 24 hours to help with the shock. Sometimes hydro shops have used bulbs they will sell for cheap, depending on your ballast your should be able to run a 250 watt bulb if that's all you can find and afford. If the plants aren't in cubes I suggest letting the roots stay in the small clump of soil around them. You could wash the roots off but it will stress them more and when exposing them to lights you risk killing the roots. After you transplant fill right up to the bottom of the leaves that are growing. If you don't have a ph meter I suggest something like this. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396007211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ph+meter Its fairly inexpensive and very easy to use. If all you have is less than $30 to spend I suggest the meter over a mh bulb and pick up a thermometer. Also since the plants will be in shock once you transplant them foiler feed with water (spray down the tops and bottoms of the leaves with clean soft water)
I'd make a tea from the soil your not using. Its not going to be the best but will give you some nutes if you can't afford to pick up bottles.
Well those roots look healthy to me. Just try the flushing. Here is a TDS I use for $16. Even if you do not go for the calibration solution gotta have it if you want to grow the dro.
It's just as possible that your tap water has too many minerals. My tap water supply can sometimes have 6-9 times the optimal level. Short of having a full water test done, you can buy a cheap TDS meter off amazon (we use these) but I'm sure any of them are fine. You're looking for an target of about 150ppm but I've had great cups from 100-350ish. You might find it might be a good idea to mix some distilled and tap, preferably filtered if your water has any distinct taste to it.
For no cost (aside from coffee and water) you could just try a 10%tap 90%distilled batch, a 50/50 batch, and a 100% tap batch and just make some adjustments from whichever you like the most.
I run a DWC and use this for a PPM meter. Does the job. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or want to chat.
>With the raft, don't the roots sit in water?
Yes and no. What you want to do is get enough foam so that about half of inch sits outside the water at all time. This allows the roots to breath outside of the water (like the DWC). Again, don’t let this part get dry or it can cause air pruning. You can do this by allowing the net pot to sit a little higher in the foam, planting higher in the net pot, or getting a little thicker foam.
I am attaching a link to MPH Gardener. I would say look over his stuff. He is pretty freakin’ awsome.
>Can you recommend all the testing equipment I need or provide an Amazon link?
You will need a PPM and pH meter. These are two cheap version I use. You can go as crazy as you want, just remember the cheaper the more you replace them.
pH Callibration Liquid: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X5KAV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B004HE7W42&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=118RAVZJW5YGE1CB5EE9
>With lettuce greens, I think the raft would work. Perhaps I'll do DWC with tomatoes; I think it would be hard with greens.
That sounds great. Watch the MPH Gardener on his Dutch bucket tomatoes first. I will preface with he does use MiracleGro for his nutrients, which is a highly debated topic. So take the nutrients with a grain of salt.
>How do you swap out water? Do you just do a 100% water change? Is that cost-effective with the price of nutrients?
I do do a 100% water change every two weeks. You can check the level of nutrients and try adding them; however, I have an outside garden during the summer and just put the nutrients there which does wonders for them.
Also, it gives me a chance to add in bacteria as I need it.
There are methods for balancing the pH, nutrients, and keeping the same water; however, as a beginner I would not get into this. If you want to we can talk but just swap the nutrients out as you go.
And this is where I will highlight that you want a shallow reservoir because you want to keep the minimum water you need to not to waste nutrients. I would say go to a hardware store and ikea and see what bins will work.
>Do I need to paint my plastic bin black to deter mold growth? Thanks so much for your help!
Yes and no. There are ways to go around managing algae with either pond products or barley straw mats, but to be honest sealing off holes and painting things black is the easiest.
Keep in mind that if you are going to have high heat in the room a white reservoir might be better than black.
I would rather purchase 3,000 bugs.
Sadly not eligible for Prime. Order before the weather goes back to >80 degrees.
I wonder if these will help my catalpa tree.
I see your 2,000 googly eyes and raise you 1,500 live ladybugs
Um, order some ladybugs?
Buy a batch of aphid murder machines: http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464993851&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ladybugs
Haha the irony!
My personal favorite is that you can buy live animals on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409338127&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Lady+Bugs
Usually you order ladybugs because you have an infestation of some kind. If you release them near it, they'll hang out until its controlled and even when they do start to move along you've increased their population in the area which will help prevent future infestations.
You can get 1,500 of them for like $12 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC
Order some of these...They will eat the aphids and other plant eating bugs.
Around 16,000 live ladybugs.
Link for the lazy
pfft, just buy the ladybugs: https://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC
Those are aphids. They suck the life juices out of your plants. If your garden has been infested, fear not! You can buy 1500 live ladybugs on amazon for $7.31 Sprinkle them on the affected plants and your aphids will become a tasty ladybug snack.
Amazon sells them for cheap, and no you shouldn't put 1500 live ladybugs in your buddies Toyota Camry. He'll be finding them forever.
Idk, at a similar price point the mono from renogy is 47x21 while this one is 40x26 https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495738194&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=monocrystalline+solar+panel
We agree that it would work with electricity; the point is that it requires enormous amounts of it.
Here's one estimate, which suggests it takes 5,550 to 13,900 watt-hours to produce one kilogram (about two pounds) of steel from iron. Glass is in the same ballpark at 5,000 to 9,700 watt-hours.
Glass and steel comprise the bulk of the weight of a typical solar cell (the rest being the fancy exotic stuff that's probably even most costly to refine and process). A typical 100 watt cell seems to run about 15 pounds or so, call it seven kilos.
7500 watt-hours X 7 kilos = ~50,000 watt-hours.
If you're investing 50,000 watt-hours to produce a single 100 watt-hour cell, you can see the problem. Just for the production of the glass and steel - never mind building the actual guts of the thing - you're running each cell for 500 hours of daylight.
If you just want to produce the frames, you're running 60 cells for every one you produce, and producing one per day.
The most recommended setup I see from other vandwellers in Renogy. They make pretty much everything you need, and it's competitively priced.
You can buy a kit and have almost everything you need but a battery or you can build from scratch. The big components are deep cycle battery, panel, charge controller. There are obviously lots of other smaller things you'll need as well such as fuses, wires, mounting brackets, etc.
This option is much more cost efficient but also requires a good working knowledge of electrical setups (or the desire to learn them) in order to do it safely.
something with a little more power , they got 100watt (20w) versions of these bulbs that are a lot bigger on amazon but a panel is gonna be the best bang for your buck , These ones are cheap and efficient
They don’t need them - they don’t get hot only “warm” and they are full spectrum which means you have a grow and bloom light. Very efficient at creating light and spread and cost effective :-)
Some reviews here:
Get something in either 3000K or 3500K range (spectrum output).
Let me know if you want to know more!
I have a 2018 ford transit van. We take this with us camping ( I camp about 20 times a year, 2-3 day trips ) .
I am looking to get a small electric generator / battery and a simple solar panel to charge it. This will be used just to run a water pump for once a day quick shower, power some low energy fans at night and charge devices.
I already own this power source - https://www.amazon.com/Aeiusny-Generator-Portable-Emergency-Solar/dp/B01IW408R0/
I was debating getting this solar panel - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z6CW7O
Is it compatible and will charge the power source listed above or is there a better one? Am I missing any critical components to get this to work?
I plan to mount it on top of the van as a permanent structure.
Thanks in advance.
Ok. Im sorry I don't have a book or a source because I was forced into this whole situation and had no time. I had to ask on forums and look on google, and perform the results the very next day. So now I have a little knowledge that grows every day by just asking around here on Reddit and on cruisers forums because Im out living In the moment lol.
This is a diagram I made of my electrical set up. I made it to ask a question to experts so a few crucial labels are missing to make it a complete beginners diagram in my opinion.
This is my solar Kit by RENOGY
These are the best batteries to get for house/cabin use and for solar power These are the ones I and everyone hopes to afford. I have 4 (lesser known equivalent) 6v batts, all brand new from Orileys, paired and converted into 2 beefed up 12v batteries. Mine will do the job, maybe last 5-7 years but Trojan T-105s last a life time.
Next is where I got the "Know how" from some forum posts.
Finally, here is a AWESOME detailed explanation of battery power, and solar power from a redditor who actually used my own setup as an example.
With the right equipment, about 400 watts of solar power, 6 to 8 6v batteries. A 250-500watt wind generator, a working engines alternator, and a back up 2000 watt honda generator you can go on with your every day life using free energy. With care you can maintain your batteries health, and your own energy consumption in conjunction with the solar panels, or have a costly back up of a gas generator or the boats engine alternator to beef up your batteries and make sure they never go down. You can also invest in a water maker that turns sea water into fresh drinking water. Our unit can turn 38gallons of sea water in one hour.
With all that in mind, your only expense is food/propane gas for the boat or generator and clothing. Anchoring is free anywhere and most marinas have anchorage spots close to their docks so you can get into town quickly. also some cities have free public docking, so living on a sail boat is pretty cool once you have built a complete self sufficient system. we have USB modems that use 4G signals to provide internet, or we can use our big wifi antenna to reach open wifi signals from a mile away, so gaming and Reddit is possible anywhere we go, especially if we can afford to buy some 4g data for the month.
Im interested in this because I already have one solar panel and 4 batteries. I eventually want to have 2 big 250 watt solar panels that will make up a total 500 watts, and I want to have 8 6v batteries total.
Instead of getting a AC inverter, I can switch everything I use to DC power supply, like a laptop, Wii U, Fan, Fridge to save power, and even more so if I upgrade my computer to run more efficiently.
Ive alredy replaced EVERY SINGLE LIGHT with little LED bulbs, even my navigation lights and mast lights. I can turn them ALL on and my volt meter doesn't drop a single volt and its freaking amazing how little they draw.
Ive come to realize that I can realistically save and continue to build off my current system, instead of struggling to sustain a "normal" lifestyle with bills and rent. $200 here and there, one new solar panel this month, two more batteries that month, and before you know it, you have spent less than a years worth of bills and finances, only this time its a permanent solution that no longer requires a yearly or monthly bill.
Regular car batteries are made to have a lot of cranking power, and then stay on a trickle charge once the alternator gets going. Running the battery voltage down each night and charging it daily will kill the life of your battery (if it's not deep cycle).
Honestly, charging a phone (5w), running some small LED lighting (8w), and a couple 12VDC fans (6w) can all be done through your cigarette lighter port and won't be drawing more than 20watts. If you ran that all night, you would only be using 15amp/hrs or so of your battery; and if you get 8 hours of sunlight, you only need a 30watt solar panel to charge it back up. Whenever you are talking about solar though, you should plan on doubling your capacity to account for non-optimal performance, cloudy days, long winter nights, etc.
kieranmullen gives a pretty good rundown of what you would need to setup a separate 12v system but seems like overkill for what you are asking (and would run you about $300-400).
Personally, I would get a 100 watt panel, 7 amp charge controller, the cheapest 12v deep cycle marine battery from walmart, and maybe a 3-400w inverter (for a laptop charger or any other AC devices). Also, I'd put an inline fuse between my charge controller and load, and maybe another between the battery and charge controller.
Terro Ant Baits, Work like a dream!
Someone else asked if they were pet safe and I can almost guarantee they are not.
Terro makes a good product
Amazon. Link if you want some.
TERRO T300B 2-Pack Liquid Ant Baits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4GACB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.ByFDb753KSF5
this stuff works so good but I think Walmart has a 4 pack. You only need 1 pack
Came here to suggest those! The best. TERRO T300B 2-Pack Liquid Ant Baits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4GACB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5.MvCbPNX3TKA
THESE exact traps. How long has it been? It really did take a full week for them all to die. Tons of living ants everywhere for the first 3-4 days.
For ants inside the house, I use Tarro Ant Baits. This stuff is awesome and works great.
As for the outside, you can have someone come and spray your yard. I've never used it, but my neighbor has used Mosquito Authority. Maybe try Gannons??? I have no clue what it costs though.
This. I used these at my old house and the ants were gone within days.
No joke, this stuff works miracles. It's the only type of bait that actually kills the queen, which is the only way to permanently get rid of the ants.
Big +1 on the Terro traps. Vastly superior to other brands. Use lots and know that it will take some time for the entire colonies to be poisoned and in the meantime you will see lots MORE ants as they collect the slow-release poison.
Also do enjoy the #1 product review on Amazon:
I was using this bait about two months ago...
TERRO T300B 2-Pack Liquid Ant Baits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4GACB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-qDTCbP3YW90J
They swarmed every one I put out, for about 24 hours, and then they just stopped. Thoughts?
I hear ya. I'm an ant lover obviously, but I totally understand not wanting them in your home.
The TERRO Liquid bait traps work extremely well.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I can't do much about your ant problem (although this helped with ants in my kitchen), one of the things that gave me confidence to try my first kettle sour was the recent Milk the Funk podcast on kettle souring. They discussed oxygen exposure during souring and said it isn't an issue. Their recommendation is that no steps need to be taken to seal up the wort during the souring phase other than covering it someway to keep critters out of it. Brulosophy also had a recent podcast on kettle souring and they came to the same conclusion. Definitely worth a listen if you're interested in the topic.
Get some of these. They're seriously magical. No other brand works as well in my experience. They'll be gone in less than 48 hours.
Here’s my LED recommendation as for the light strips
Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light for Plant Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGFW0XO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jbw9BbQC8XC32
Yeah I had this light too close for a little too long. Raised it for the last couple of weeks. Now I know for the next grow!
Smell was stronger than I expected, smelled great though. Seemed to have a citrus smell too it while trimming.
Here is the link from Amazon
Tl:Dr 104 bucks
I've been using this in a 5gal bucket and growth has been amazing:
full build with plant photos, keep in mind I'm only just over 4 weeks in:
Well, I figured those who planted directly in bucket just remove the spacers to get to the plant for trimming/LST/etc? I got my 3 gallon pot, was just wondering what's the easiest way to do this as the 3 gallon pot is gonna leave some fingers pinched getting that guy out (was thinking about drilling holes in the side and leaving some rope tied onto it so I can just lift it out by the rope).
I'm using this 180w UFO here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFW0XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and figured with that much punch, some light escaping wouldn't be a big deal. If it starts to stunt growth in flowering, I'll tape it up but it's a nice night light for the dining room right now. Unless you think it'll cause problems already?
I use 138w for Veg, 180w for Veg and Flower, and 270w for Flower.
I have the Apollo and its awesome.
I have a 18.5" WSM and when I first got it, for about the first hour I was checking it constantly (every 5-10min or so) trying to get the vents dialed in. After a few runs with it I got to where I only needed to check the vents 2 or 3 times in the first hour and that was probably just me worrying about it too much more than anything. After I get the vents set I usually check it about once every hour and again, that's just me worrying too much, and also because on days where I cook I usually don't have much else going on around the house so I might as well spend some time hanging out by the smoker. It's also worth mentioning I didn't have a wireless digital thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Maverick-Wireless-Thermometer-Display-Features/dp/B00FOCR4UI) until last week; to this point I had just been using those cheap $15 Taylor digital thermometers from Wal-Mart. Those Wal-Mart thermometers were accurate and did their job but I still had to get up and go check on the temperature(s) myself. I haven't done a cook on the WSM since I got my Maverick, but it will drastically reduce the amount of times I have to go out to the patio to do a systems check.
The longest cook I ever did on my WSM was a little over 13 hours and I had to refuel around the 8 or 9 hour mark, but that was also on a cold day (non insulated smokers like WSM's will burn more charcoal on colder days).
Get the maverick, it works well. The only thing I don't like is the way you set the alarms, you can only go up, so if you miss the temp setting, you have to go all the way around to get back to it.
Apparently there is a new 733 model also.
Here is what I recommend as a 1st probe purchase. I would buy an extra probe or 2 for replacements. The probes go bad eventually but that's all probes.
For controlling the heat on my kettle I have had better results keeping the top exhaust vent all the way open and adjusting the lower intake vents as needed. Get a good thermometer for your smoker. Spending a few bucks on a quality thermometer will save you from ruining expensive meat. I think these are a little overpriced, and programming them is like programming a VCR from the 80s, but they work well. This type of thermometer is all you really need, just make sure you put it closer to grate level as opposed to the top of the lid because you want to control the heat where the food is. Good luck finding an analog pit thermometer in °C.
As the other commenter said, Amazingribs.com is incredible. Huge amounts of great info there. Research methods and recipes and see how they translate to your cooking setup.
My advice to add would be to cook a pork butt next. Pork butts are incredibly forgiving and hard to completely screw up. Chances are you will end up with some great food even if you don't have great success with managing your temperatures.
Also, GET A THERMOMETER. Everything is guess work if you don't have a good thermometer to monitor your pit and your food. I have one of these and it is great. I think a good thermometer is the key to making some great food, no matter what your setup.
Good luck and enjoy!
>Why does fluctuating between 200-250 ruin a brisket
Brisket is kind of a finicky slab of meat. Fluctuations in temperature will often make it tougher, or probably better worded as not allowing it to become tender. I have never attempted to cook a brisket in an oven. Seems like a silly way to prepare a $50 piece of meat.
> how did you measure that it was going up and down in your oven
I use a maverick double thermometer probe. Specifically this one. I've tested both my frigidaire oven as well as my In-laws $5000 viking range. Both seem to cycle between 200-250 when set at 225. The thermostat on the range would kick on at 200 and raise the temp to 250, then shut off.
Maverick makes a few models that are nice with multiple probes. Here is an example
if you want to get creative, or need more than 2 probes. Get a micro-processor like Raspberry pi and make your own.
I go with the duel prob [Maverick] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOCR4UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) It is really a game changer... it comes with a clip for the kettle kept so it isn't resting on metal rack or anything, can also set both probs to beep to a receiver inside the house so you can lay on the couch while the smoke does it work. Pricey yes. but well worth it.
Check this out at Amazon.com
VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7U259C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Word of advice - if you want two heat mats with the thermometer regulator, best to buy one with the thermometer regulator and one without. It's weird, but it comes out a little cheaper than buying the 2 mats and then the thermometer regulator.
This one I believe VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7U259C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G2iGAbNX4088J
Yeah, no problem. This is the one I got:
This one is much cheaper but seems pretty good too. It was not available when I got mine about 2 years ago.
I recommend a seedling heat mat. They provide gentle heat and are water-resistant.
This won't provide enough heat if you are trying to get a kveik to 100F, but it's good to boost something into the 70s.
I have these two grow lights: Ferry Morse and DuroLux
No heat may but was looking into getting this one
I use a seedling heat mat, similar to one of the fermentation belts but half the price. I have 5 of them and haven't run into any issues with them yet. Paired with an inkbird I'm able to keep the carboys in my garage at about 68 even when it gets down into the 40's.
On mobile, hope this works correctly. This is what we use for seedlings: Light and mat
I want to build an indoor basement grow room so we can grow throughout the winter but that requires serious lighting, temp, and air control.
That plus an ITC-308 to control the temperature and an old blanket will do you just fine.
You can get a heat mat like this one - they're often sold for germination trays but many plants love them. Strongly recommend picking up a thermostat to go with it so you can better control the temp.
Get one of these seedling mats: https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic-Standard/dp/B00P7U259C?keywords=seedling+mat&qid=1539186589&sr=8-1-spons&ref=sr_1_1_sspa&psc=1 They're cheap and you can tape them to your fermenter, some even have thermostats.
I tend to keep my apartment around 70F, which wasn't enough to keep my starter decently active. I bought a seed germination mat with a thermostat and put it in a plastic storage bin. Works great to keep my starter temp consistent and doubles as a proofing bin when I'm baking.
It's not a kit, but something I made. These lights in a crappy light greenhouse like this wrapped in mylar sheets and the seed level has this heating mat.
Funny, (as with everything these days) those are made by exactly the same Chinese manufacturer as the Vivosun
[Vivosun Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Contoller 68-108F](VIVOSUN Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Controller 68-108℉ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
(I paid $3 more for the green sticker on the front)
[VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard](VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7U259C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l18RAbCDFEH3W)
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Durable-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic/dp/B00P7U259C/ref=pd_lpo_0_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7TZVC4BGFQDZVN0HQVPS - try a heating pad.
How cold does it get?
I have this guy. Don't even need to wrap the fermenter, just keep the pad in the chamber.
I have never used a thermostat with it, they do well between 90-95 degrees and those mats are designed to be 100 degrees and then go thru the bottom of the tote and then float up....so they can regulate their temps.
this is the mat I got
Heating: Heating Mat
The light bulb in a paint can always worried me about a broken carboy causing electric issues or the bulb burning out and me not knowing.
Cleaning: you can use diluted bleach and then rinse out with water and star san before you put a batch in there.
Extra: As for your chest freezer, I realize you have it laying around and ready for use, so go for it. But I went with an upright freezer and built a shelf inside. Reason being is that it takes up less floor space and I won't have to lift the 6gallons up and over the base of the chest freezer. I have also moved up to a conical and needed the extra head room.
A heating mat you say? That's interesting. Never heard of those. Something like this?
Can you control the temp pretty accurately with your mat?
The reviews are meh, but it looks like customer service does a good job replacing faulty heat mats free of charge to people.
One of these are your friend. Germination and seedlings love a warm environment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C
It's just large enough to place 2x 5 gallon carboys on. I also make sure to place a towel underneath to insulate and keep the hard glass form shorting any electrical.
Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 300W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
So far it’s been working pretty good so far w my white widow autoflower. Recently battled gnats and over fertilized so they’ve got a little Nitrogen stress at the moment.. but the lights seem to work fine
this is the one i have and it's done a fantastic job so far: https://www.amazon.com/Galaxyhydro-Greenhouse-Indoor-Hydroponic-Lighting/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469056747&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=galaxy+hydro
Hmm... Well the one I have is this one, but that's a bit out of your range.
I do know they have a smaller version, but I think that's still like $200 or so.
FWIW the one I linked to started to "sunburn" some of my tomatoes a year or two ago when I let them grow to close to the light without raising it. 😓
Looks like there's a knockoff (if you will) for about $100 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XOAHxbYB5TWFX
Can't attest to quality so you might need to read reviews before deciding.
Edit: merged my posts together - stupid mobile app!
I have a 6 in fan in the top corner moving air. I have a wet rag hanging from the top bars. That's a Young Living humidifier (lol). And that bowl of water. The light is this one: Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 1000W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower-1000w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MwixDb7RN1ST4
I currently am running 3 different LED's.
Plilzin 600w from Amazon.- these were my first LEDs and although they are ok, I would not recommend them based on the availability of better ones at a similar price point.
Main lights are Besva 1500w. Love the light, very powerful, low heat.
BESTVA 1500W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Grow Lamp with IR&UV for Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M03IA3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IceACb0HRKJM5
My littles start and grow under this lamp. Amazing little unit. Deep penetration which brings great growth.
Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 1000W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower-1000w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5deACbHRVBSV2
I've got one of these:
And one of these:
One vegging spectrum and one bloom spectrum both pull around 120-140W from the wall. Yours seem to have the same true wattage. Was this your yield from those two lights running on one plant? Just curious, as I have purchased comparable LEDs and want to know what kind of yield I should expect. I have a 2x4 space thinking of growing 2 or 3 but not sure it is possible with my lights.
Looks like the ‘300W’ Galaxy Hydro
Nope, it’s this guy here, picked it up for $60 on a flash sale
Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 1000W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower-1000w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zeV5CbBQ7PPJN
So is GalaxyHydro a better brand than MarsHydro? Two of the 300w would give me ~270w of actual, so 67.5w/ft.
5 feet is my limit for my closet that the tent will be in.
edit: I messed up on something
Lights: Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 1000W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower-1000w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VjHODbFEQCME4
Environment Details: Homemade grow box (height- 6 feet, width- 2 feet, depth- 18 inches). This was built specifically for an available space in my condo.
Strain: Blue Dream Auto
Age: 4 weeks from transplanting into dwc
Pot size: 5 gallon Lowe's dwc- Papi Chulo Edition
Nutrient line and schedule: Maxibloom, Lucas method. 3 gallons of water with 3 tsp of nutrients
Watering Volume: Once it drops below the spot I marked off on the bucket ::shrug::
First things first, this is my first time ever trying to grow anything, other than children and our recipe collection. I'm looking at this as a new hobby and looking for some guidance. I'm pretty sure based on the pics alone, I'm going to be flamed. Since I do not know what I'm doing, I called myself trying to LST it and broke 2 branches, but I think I have the concept down....now.
I know there's some sort of deficiency based on the leaves, however, me being a first time grower, I'm proud of all the other fresh green. My PH has been going up within the last 2 weeks and I have to keep adding oh down. The good thing is the ppm changes based on the plant absorbing the nutrients.
Yeah, pretty much all my research makes it seem like CFL is a pretty worthless way to go for this endevour. I have been looking ath this or one of the other Mars hydro 300's that everybody seems to like so much.
I just want to be able to run it all the fuckin time, and be planting auto's like every 30 days.
I just got my power bill, and it wasnt bad at all, so maybe adding another 250w or so HID wont be too bad. Its only about a 3rd of what I'm running already.
It's not that you didn't spend enough on lighting, it's that you bought the wrong things. You spent 128 CDN (Give or Take) for crap. These are comparable to your price and you should see a significant increase.
3 a little more expensive but 400w Cree COB LED
Galaxy Hydro 300W
I want to start by saying that you would get a lot more grams for not much more money if you saved up a little more and spent ~$80 on a 125 true watt panel like this:
but if your budget is fixed and 10g is your only goal, then you could add a 25 true watt panel like this and probably reach that goal:
Nearly identical setup here. That will be enough for veg but you may want to add another for flowering depending on a few things. If you plan on filling out the tent with a wall-to-wall canopy then definitely get two units for flower. One well trained plant could do well under a single LED unit, but if you can grab another one you'll be covered for just about anything you can put in that space. I wouldn't recommend the wall-to-wall canopy as a first timer, though. I'm in my first grow as well and totally underestimated how much my girls would fill out and it has been a struggle to maintain. I have buds smashing up against the side of the tent and have had to chop a few lower branches early in the flower phase because the lack of light stressed them out. If you do end up filling it out just make sure your ventilation is heavy and proper and check for signs of stress every day.
Here are some shots of my 300w girls, each one has a unit directly above it. If you can afford a second light down the road when flowering begins it'll be a big boost, but you can be successful without it.
Edit: Lights are 300w GalaxyHydro with UV/IR
These were our set up last year and it worked great.
Going to order the same ones and have double the grow set up this year:
One of these: $79.99
Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 300W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower
Two of these: $69.99
Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light
This will make the room violently pink, but casts a lovely width of lighted area and is super bright.
So far, my indoor tree is loving it and bounced back from acclimating to the new pot and location since it was from a nursery. He was a seriously un happy tree, I thought I would lose it. This light is awesome.
Dude, just get one of those salt shooters that are meant to kill flies and then fill with some dank as ECP! Like this one!
Soon to be banned in New York, New Jersey, and California!
I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/BUG-A-SALT-2-0-from-Skell-Inc/dp/B00STSZ77G
Now I'm the one who knocks
I would recommend one of these
Check out the Bug-A-Salt: https://www.amazon.com/Bug-A-Salt-2-0-from-Skell-Inc/dp/B00STSZ77G
Don't get an airsoft gun for that, just get a bug-a-salt (its a pump shotgun that fires salt). Here's the link to it: http://www.amazon.com/BUG---SALT-2-0-FLY-GUN/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458852409&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bug+a+salt
Breh. Fuck larger bugs. Just get a salt shotgun.
I want one of these.
If by weird you mean freaking awesome, I've got the Bug-A-Salt 2.0, a salt powered gun that kills flies and other annoying bugs.
Use this https://www.amazon.com/Bug-A-Salt-2-0-from-Skell-Inc/dp/B00STSZ77G
Get a salt gun. It is fun. Bug-A-Salt 2.0 New & Improved Model https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y68KDb3N1BKA0
But this is more fun
Hammock and Hammock Stand
Bed Frame and Mattress
Table and I stole a folding chair from my Uni to go along with the table.
Amazon has one for $46 that can collapse into a small portable tote, but Ive never used it, so I can't be sure it isn't crap. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_H.ytzbGE1FSTJ
I've seen a number of people hang using two crossed poles and a tie down, always looks like its about to fall, but it seems to work. This is a commercial version of that if you can get a stake in the ground where you are fishing.
I just got this stand in today, and it's incredible. I don't have any trees either but this works great for indoor/outdoor use
I would definitely recommend it.
Any hammock with this stand under an ez-up.
just going to leave this here...
Here ya go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WFH3TIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use this stand. A little tricky to get your angle right with but once it's dialed in it works great. For bottom insulation I just have a giant quilt that I wrap underneath me when I crawl into bed.
I sleep on this stand and have for three months, it works great. My off-brand hammock stretched a bit, I moved the hooks to the next set of holes, no problem.
Thank you for sharing! That is really impressive growth. I hope my plants get that large when I am ready to start them. (Zone 5A currently getting lows at -20F). I have never heard of that type of light, seems to work really well for you and they are on sale so I might have to try one. I wonder if I have one of those but still my other lights if there would be an issue, or if I would just use the mars one.
Also the comments from people on imgur really get on my nerves at times.
10 of those will definetly do. I started with CFLs until i bought a 250W version and it fucking sucked balls. (was listed a grow CFL). the package shows 14W->65W so that bad boy will produce the equivalent of a 65W subjective "brightness" for human eyes. Definition of Lumen. The specification is kind of misunderstood since it tells you something about the brightness a human eye perseives. A plant has other needs.
nonetheless, with 10 of those you will grow weed, but if you pay more than 7$ a piece you should consider getting one of these for starters: 300W LED for beginners. they got a much better spectrum (not the best, but theyre cheap and easy to use)
I am talking about something like this (random link, not an endorsement) that can be used in a DIY setup. Check /u/LEDWizard 's threads to learn more about DIY leds.
Other than that, even just stringing together enough LED spotlights/directional bulbs would do the trick, just not as good as a COB led array (the ones I linked at the beginning).
Or you could go for a couple (or 3) of these ready made panels. Again, this is an example and not an endorsement.
Either way I'm sure it'll be great, because your setup looks pretty sweet as it is and you generally can't go wrong with LEDs. They last a long time and produce the most PAR (photosyntheticaly active radiation) per Watt consumed that any other artificial lighting source.
For a light I love these MarsHydro Mars 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum ETL Certification Lighting for Hydroponic Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Growing 132W True Watt Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UOkEzbEW2ZGQ5
MarsHydro LED Grow Light 300W 600W 1200W Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jB3xCbP7WZ2W7
If so that should be doable. Its a 132w light and with blurple its pretty easy to hit 0.5g/watt of light if you dont stunt the plant a lot.
They upgraded them. The old original ones did but the ones that they currently sell use 5w.
yes, LED full spectrum grow lights. something like this dont' give off too much heat and use a fraction of the power. The light is intense. doesn't have to be as close as HPS or Halogen grow light. the light i linked will cover a 4'x4' growing area. get more trees ! (you can also go without a light if it's close to the window and only one tree, it will survive until spring no worries)
They advertise it as 132 watt actual:
More than enough for a Brute build, along with some side lighting strips for the bottom maybe :D.
MarsHydro Mars300 LED Grow Light Full Spectrum ETL Certification Lighting for Hydroponic Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Growing 132W True Watt Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QUlfzbVQ6VJBW
there is not a good kit, you should buy stuff separate.
light, growing space/material, seeds/plants will probably come from different vendors.
if you wanted a super simple, easy to use kit could get an autopot and then some easy to use nutrients, a simple 1 piece light(led or HPS), then some seeds or wait for march and get some starter plants from me =D
You need more than 36" vertical space. Your fan + filter will take up 10", pots another 10", and you will need to keep the light 12"+ away from the plants. This tent is close in footprint, but with a much more manageable height. Tons of good tents out there though. Just make sure you have at least 5' if you are flowering. 6 or 7 is better.
Can't speak to that particular Mars light. If you only have $150US/100GBP to spend, I'd look into more options. Mars300 for a first grow is an idea. A better idea, if you have the time/inclination, is to build a light. You can get diode strips (Bridgelux EB, Samsum Series H, etc) + 100w driver for the same price, and it'll put out more useful light with less heat. If that sounds like something you want to do, search a bit on this subreddit, and post questions. Lots of builders here.
As for fans, Active Air is a solid brand. Just don't buy anything that look like this--which is a duct fan, not an inline or this--which is an inline that will work for 3 months then break.
I doubt you have a 3D printer, but this is the pot I use:
Self-Watering Planter (Small) found on Thingiverse.
I also use General Hydroponics nutrients. They're so much better than the nutes that come with the Aerogarden. Here's a link, should last about a year:
General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3)
Follow the directions on the bottle carefully, ie purple, then green, then pink. Idk why it's in the wrong order on the chart, it's really stupid they did it like that. I alternate every other one with plain water. I use this for both my Aerogarden and potted plants.
Oh, use filtered water, not tap water. Plants don't like chlorine.
General Hydroponics Flora Grow,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKBMRW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
General Hydroponics pH Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Most people just add nutes to water, adjust the pH of the nutrient solution as needed to get a runoff of around pH 6.5 or so, and then add the solution to the plants as per the two knuckle rule (stick your finger in the soil and if it feels dry at the second knuckle then do a complete watering).
You can store concentrated nutrients however you want just don't store concentrated multi-part nutrients together in the same container. This will cause some of the nutrients to bind up.
Using a syringe, tiny measuring cup, "soap" dispenser, etc does not matter as long as the nutrient solution is the appropriate strength and pHed before adding it to the soil. With the above 3 part GH Flora fertilizers I like a fertilizer strength of 1200ppm/1.9 EC (I use a TDS meter) and a pH of 6.7-6.8 to get a runoff of around 6.5.
Does the above make sense?
edit- slight correction and TDS stands for "total dissolved solids". I use an older version of this meter that has a 650ppm=1 EC correction factor, which can be different depending on the meter, and this to test pH.
The General hydroponics Flora series is generally recommended to newbies. https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Bloom-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487294270&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=flora+series
You can add to it but those three bottles will grow anything you could want.
Flora fertilizers are pretty good/cheap.
I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.
Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:
The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.
Hmm... That makes sense, especially since my last grow didn't have this issue, but this is my first grow using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708/
I grow in soil and this is what i use, and i feel many others do as well.
The kratky method is a great beginners method to get into hydroponics. I currently have about 30 plants all doing the kratky.
General Hydroponics is a good brand and mix of nutrients. Its simple to use and doesnt require a scale to mesure stuff out. Use a tablespoon to measure stuff or a syringe.
Buy the PH up/down from GH too but be warned you will need to dilute it first or youre in for a fun time trying to correct your PH. (let me know when you get to this step and I can give better directions.
Get a simple PH tester. It will make your life a lot easier. Once I figured out that adding nutrients to my water brought my PH to around 5.9 I stopped testing everytime. (but i recommend that you do use it everytime)
You DO NOT need to grow in soil first, but like /u/BroposkisRump said you can just be careful washing off the roots. GOTO the youtube channels mentioned on check out Khang Starr's video first.
You cangrow those with no effort.
Thats all I got for now. Once you understand this method try hydroponics using a different method as well.
I would also get a 600 w led. This one on amazon is a really good deal. If you’re really hurting for cash get the 300 w version for about $80 I think.
Also, you could start in cheep 5 gallon buckets. Get good garden planter soil from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Put drain holes in buckets. You can also just use miracle grow as nutrient.
Read i love growing marijuana website too. You could get closer to 600 grams as a rookie with that light, and good soil.
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
48x48x80 link is up above, and I’m using a Viparspectra 600w led, will link below.
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_REHdAbRWHWRTX
It is an LED panel, this one to be specific.
It's been awhile since I took a physics course on waves and optics, but I think what's happening is the cracked door to the closet is causing diffraction, which leads to the light from individual LEDs on the panel to bend differently based on their color, creating the rainbow pattern. Of course it also might not be based on the individual colors but rather their placement on the panel, which would explain why the order of colors is seemingly random rather than the typical ROYGBIV pattern of rainbows.
Was looking at this one
Thought process was if I ever want to go with more than 6 (I think) it should be able to provide enough light. Thanks for the reply man
You need to look at power draw and not "size". Something like this would be good for that size tent.
I was thinking these https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487279802&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=led+growing+lights
Snagged these for $89 yesterday on Amazon. Seemed like a steal. Maybe they'll be back on sale tomorrow.
edit: the 600w version of that light is on sale still
I think an led would be perfect as they run cool but still have power and spectrum options, perfect for tight spaces. I am flowering with a viparspectra600 (actual 267w) led in a 2x3x5 cabinet and love it. https://imgur.com/a/YjnNO
Using every inch of your grow space wisely, and guiding the plants structure will help you maximize yield and plant health.
I bought this one for my first grow and am happy so far
VIPARSPECTRA 600W LED Grow Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4kwOCbS8FS1XC
He's referring to something like this.
Pay attention to the amount of power it draws from the wall, not the "600w" figure they posted which is going to be quite wrong. I did the math on the ones available on Amazon, and the Viparspectras seem to give you the best W/$ ratio.
I have been really happy with these VIPARSPECTRA lights from amazon.com. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
From the wattage observed via zwave switch and led count, thinking they use 3 watt leds. I liked them enough to buy 2 of the '300 watt' versions and one 600 watt. Combined with my old metal halide fixture, plants are super happy.
Coffee, lime, lemon, tangerine, pineapples, various other tropical plants.
If they last 10 years will be happy. Tired of using so much wattage on ballasts for the mh and hps fixtures.
It's just a 2x4x6, Quictent 48"x24"x84" to be exact. I don't really recommend this tent, but it's what I've got right now. There's some light leaks and poor stitching I had to cover up.
It was originally meant for iPower 48"x48"x78" but I had to downsize for some space reasons.
I've been slowly upgrading where I can between grows, so the initial investment didn't hit me as hard. But if you can afford it, I would recommend getting higher quality material the first time around and saving your money long term. I've got 2x Blurple VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series V600 600W, that old 4x4 grow tent, and that old fan+filter combo all collecting dust -- essentially an entire grow setup.
I'm now using an HLG-600H Quantum Board (dimmed), that 2x4x6 tent, and the filter+fan combo I posted above.
Also, my fan is probably overkill for my current setup, so I did the math for the CFMs needed for my tent and used a Variable Fan/Router Speed Controller to turn it down a bit. Not sure if I'd completely recommend that controller, but it's just what I've got.
Wow, if you really want to make those heliamphora happy inside, you've got quite a project ahead of you. Get these things: an aquarium tank 30 inches long x 12 inches tall x about 12 or 15 inches wide. The first two measurements are the important ones. Get two of these to mount on each side of your tank:
Go led for best light:
Now get this for humidity:
wrap the tank in a reflective material, put your helis in, and they'll do fine.
Are you concerned with aesthetics? If not, you can easily get away with some florescent shop lights such as these. You would want to get some full-spectrum bulbs, or some that are in the sunlight spectrum at least. Depending on the plants, you may be able to get away with some standard 6500K blue/white bulbs.
If you really want to be super efficient/cool looking and you don't care about price then you could go with an LED setup like this, but you'd likely need several to keep many plants going and the cost adds up quick.
You could also get one large metal halide fixture such as this but they generate a lot of heat and look very industrial.
Please note that I'm not recommending any of these brands in particular, I'm just using these as examples. Were it me, I'd probably just pick up two fluorescent fixtures from your local box store and designate a corner of a room to overwinter the plants. They may or may not grow a lot under the lights, but they will survive and you won't break the bank.
They make that size as well. Same 3 year warranty. http://www.amazon.com/ViparSpectra-Reflector--Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463003979&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=VIPARSPECTRA
Exact model I'm using I have two of these.
Thanks! Something closer to this? Should we have the light on 24/7 until it starts flowering then switch to 12 on 12 off? That’s what we’ve read
Here is what I'm running. Couldn't recommend it more.
Have two of them and one larger size. One unit only runs at about 150W actually so better on the power bill. :) Ive grown all the herbs you mentioned under it with great success. I like it more than the pure red/blue lights. Less weird looking light color and all.
This is the light I use - it emits a small amount of heat that is perfect. Keeps my succulents around 75 degrees. I have them on a three-tier wire cart that I wrapped in foil to insulate until I can get real reflective padding.
Can't recommend this light enough - everything is doing so well now, I have a lithops blooming, some sedum, baby toes, one lace aloe, a haworthia turgida, and more.
just want to chime in here, I was in the same boat as you. Starting out as just an experiment seeing if I could actually sprout a seed, turned into a dedicated project :p But I can tell you I didn't have any idea with like lights, tents, air filters etc. So first thing I bought was this LED , but a better option would be this Viparspectra (the one I bought though has been just fine) and just hung it in my closet with the plant, and that's it. veg'ed it for 4 weeks just like that with the light on a timer and my closet door closed. (get a little desk fan to to move some air over the leaves) Then I figured I'd switch to flower, and was kinda on the edge about investing in a tent and carbon filter. but every thread I read about smell, veterans would always say "It's gonna smell a lot!" So I bit the bullet and got a 2x2x4 tent and this carbon filter and fan . You can probably use your DIY carbon filter just fine. Anyway, long story short, I started to flower and literally two days later I walk into my house after work and the smell just hits me. And this is just one plant. So definitely invest in that stuff. But as for the PC fan, unfortunately it's not going to have enough static pressure to force air through a carbon filter. You don't have to go with the one I got, like brotha said the duct boosters will work too. If you have any question let me know cause I relate very well to your situation, except I've now been halfway through the process lol. pm me if you want
I use this and it’s an absolute beast.
garbage. would be better off buying LED lightbulbs which run in the 10-14 Watt range and are much cheaper than this. These would work good for seedlings but that is about it.
also for the same price you could get something like this instead. which is more than double the watts of the 4 lights that you posted.. but a lot of people hate on these sort of lights as well. lots of options out there.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=psdc_14252961_t1_B07FMRH4H8
I was actually looking at this specific light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Yb7yb7BTVPTA
I am also looking at some led strips for the sides
Apologies for leaving that out - here's the light I used:
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2mNSGemHv8xkn
Edit: Ok my bad apparently that version isn't sold anymore but here is the link to the 450W version : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015FLSOCE/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1
You mentioned that you were thinking of having three 5 gallon pails of tomatoes and peppers, and if that is the case this light isn't gonna cut it. Without looking up the item, it looks like something you could use on seedlings or small young plants, but tomato plants get big, and its not likely this light would support them long term. It should be fine for lettuce assuming your plants aren't really spread out.
Honestly I would find something in the 300w range for three plants, such as this if you want to go LED. If you are looking to save money on the fixture, I would suggested some full spectrum CFL bulbs instead. Bar or coil bulbs should be fine either way, but you'll need a couple of them for good light disbursement.
(For the record, I did try to look this up but was unable to find it.)
This is the one I got off Amazon
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PXLSAbH17KS0H
How big is your area? How many plants do you have? I grow Thyme, Rosemary and Oregano on a 2'x2'x3' tent with a 300 watt LED like this one https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520754703&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=300+watt+LED They are in 6" pots and take up about half of the space. I use the other half for starting seedlings.
Thanks! I thought the same thing when i saw those leaves develop!
The younger ones "wriggle" so much as they're growing in, it's awesome to look at.
I'm using 2 of these lights they were cheap but had pretty great reviews. so far so good.
Standard Fox Farm Nutes with Cal mag too.
Soil is just organic stuff from amazon
I went pretty cheap on the supplies, but so far so good.
edit: just adding quantity of lights.
I'd go with this if anything for a single
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6xTYzbER2JRX4
That tent is fine. The lights aren't great. I recommend ViparSpectra
That grow space could support 2 of these 300wViparSpectra lights. I would get two of them and place them inside that tent. Even if you don't want to go with the ViparSpectras, then go with a Mars Hydro. Works just fine. Just remember that lighting has a lot to do with Yield. So with this tent and set up, you can expect 2-5 oz total with 2 of these lights running together.
VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower, Has Daisy Chain Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.9vOCbF1ZJZ5Z
I have 2 of these. But take into consideration the amount of space you have.
I have this and it produces about 50k lux 10" away from emitters. I use it to light my 2x4 grow tent instead of a handful of less powerful lights.
And different carnivorous plants have different light and temp preferences. My light is too bright for direct use on my Nepenthes, but I bet Fly Traps or Sarracenia would love it being only ~6" away.
Haré SCROG, sin embargo mi luz es de 300W, la siguiente:
Puede que quede fallo y tenga que usar también una de sodio es lo que me temo :/
I would imagine that your LED light would be fine. I have used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on two plants in about the same size tent and everything was fine. I just made sure to rotate my plants every couple of days to make sure they were getting decent exposure all around. I now run two of these lights in my tent.
This is the exact one I own: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've had it running for about 6 months, running about 12 hours a day. The fan on it is a bit noisy, but not any louder than an AC is. It's advertised as being able to cover a 3'x3' area at 2' height, which it seems to have proven (it covers a 3'x1' shelf at 1.5' height in my current setup).
It uses 5W LEDs which is great for high luminosity; most LED grow lights I've seen use a higher number of lower wattage LEDs (3W or 2W) which seems to be lower overall luminosity.
oh and heres the lights I would recommend for smaller setup like what we have:
and finally, if you're poor as shit like a lot of us are then buy the quantum board first. you can still produce very nice flowers with just that.
youre going to want more light for flowering. I made this mistake my first grow (on the second grow now).
I had a "150w" LED that was not actually that strong, then once rollitup.org told me how to calculate light strength, i picked up 3 75w cfl's in combo with the LED. It did okay, I think it would have been better had I not neglected the plant for a few weeks because I thought it was dead.
Now on my second grow I picked up this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pd_rd_i=B01B4GQ6MO&amp;pd_rd_r=AXNDD5PE2W17Y5ZA2BM0&amp;pd_rd_w=KzeiU&amp;pd_rd_wg=4PDlg&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=MZWYMG0NJ9CJGQ9ZS8R8&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop - from what ive found 300w will be good for a 2x2x4' grow tent that im running now.
This one is good https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479392057&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=led+grow+light&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41g2qHfa0jL&amp;ref=plSrch
I bought a small metal shelf from home depot and got the 300W version of this grow light to hang from the underside of the top shelf
I'd suspect your light is the leading cause of slow growth, barring ph issues. From what I can tell of the leaves, it looks pretty healthy! Light leaks don't bother the plant as much during vegetative state, you mostly have to watch for those in flowering. You could always grab an additional light online to bolster your plant.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Generation-Spectrum-Greenhouse-Hydroponics/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542517552&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=roleadro%2Bled%2Bgrow%2Blight&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41T44TtuwqL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Might be a good addition. Get the second Gen full spectrum yellow colored 600w (it's not a true 600w, but it's better than some of the other blurples and it's light penetration is solid)
Roleadro 600W LED
i wouldnt get the light meter, the ufo wont register too well with a lux meter because of the mono LEDs. if you want a light you can use with the light meter, you could get this:
what are you using for nutrients? i think you will need a larger power supply for the leds, like 12vdc 5-10amp.
the brand galaxyhydro/roleandro is equal to, maybe a little better than marshydro, they are both chinese led panel amazon/ebay sellers. However, that particular COB is very low end, entry level, not worth +$30 over the regular mars300. its pulling 100w vs 132w and putting out the same blurple light.
A "real" 100w at the wall cob will set you back $200 and or more
stay with the 2 mars or better yet, get 2 of these newer white led panel
honestly https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Plant-Light-Spectrum-Generation/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=sr_1_9?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482438329&amp;sr=1-9&amp;refinements=p_36%3A2661614011 any of the chinese LEDs will do you wonders.
I'm not sure which one is better, but this one will be much better on your eyes, the blue/purple light gets annoying after awhile...
I have an orchid that was gifted to me this spring. It bloomed beautifully through the summer, and when it finished, I trimmed back its spikes (they were being sacrificed anyway) and repotted it (the included pot was very small and couldn't drain). So far, it seems to be doing well: I have two new sets of leaves. However, I'm a cold apartment in Seattle (though it is south facing). How much benefit do you think I'd get from installing this $70 sunlight colored LED grow light?
Edit: it's a young phal.
There is no definitive answer on this because there are too many variables. Examples: The light requirements of each individual plant. The PAR given by the light. How far the plant is from the light. How long the light is on daily. How much natural light the plants receive. Yes grow lights CAN work, but you have to find the perfect balance. The great thing about indoor lights is you can control the environment! Too much light, you can reduce the time or move the plants further away from the light source. Too little light, move them closer or give more hours of light. It's not something you'll probably get 100% right on the first try.
They do make white LED grow light panels, but they are harder to find than the red/blue. You may want to try something like - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HI3AFYM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_35?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2L94QV6P0R9ON -but it may be overkill, I don't know how many plants you have or how large of an area you need to light.
these are decent according to my par meter, i had a switch go bad in one, easy fix, not as purple as most. might be close in cdn, its 100 usd https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-HYG08-2X400W-W-Spectrum-Generation-Flowering/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=sr_1_10?crid=22IRS5K4WXJK2&keywords=roleadro+led+grow+light&qid=1565980617&s=gateway&sprefix=roleadro%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-10
I've been pretty impressed with the performance of the grow lights I am using. I'm using this '400W' COB from Roleadro. Here's a photo from further back, if you're interested in seeing how the light is setup.
It looks like the cheapest thing they have is a 100w COB for $229. What makes their lights so much better than a 300w COB from Roleadro that's $100?
edit- the Roleadro is actually 400w, 200w actual draw
Look into different spectrums so its not all the same. Your plants and yield will appreciate it.... Maybe add COB into the mix. Beneficial to not all have the same blurple LED spectrum. I ran 600w purple LED COB first grow, now running that in conjunction with 300w of CFL. Definite improvements. See here:
Roleadro 400W COB Full Spectrum LED Grow Light with Innovated Chips, 2nd Generation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y9q9ybVMHCBVF
This will be your best bet for that budget. A little under powered but should work.
I've been looking into getting this one personally:
Just trying to find more info on Roleandro right now. They were Galaxy Hydro before, but very little information out there for their new reincarnation.
Thanks, I've watched a few of Growmou5's video's and it looks like that's the way to go. I just can't afford it right now. I'm wondering if I should just buy a $100 LED or try out a $100 COB (which I could upgrade in the future). I have a $100 Amazon gift card and really have no idea what to get. I have a $50 chinese "300w" led pulling about 120w and CFL's all around the area. So another "300w" would fit the best. But something pulling over 200w would be better but each light would probably not be level, the "600w" probably would be higher and the smaller one might block out some of the light....idk I can't have much heat though and COB's seem to give off more.
Others in the price range I'm looking at is:
Someone said Chinese COB lights can overheat though.
I've tried a few of the budget options from Amazon. They will work, just not the greatest. Also, several aren't actually what they say they are wattage wise. The actual rated power can vary anywhere up to 10w from my testing (on these smaller 30-50w actual fixtures).
My two remaining sub100$ lights based off performance are these guys and both are in my tent now supporting fruiting pepper plants: Roleadro HYG08-2X400W-W 800W COB Full Spectrum Grow Light LED Plant Lamp with ON/Off Switch and Daisy Chain Function, 2nd Generation Flowering and Veg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NsQ2Db2GRCQ6G
The other was a Marshydro 240w blurple that is either out of stock or not sold anymore, I believe it was right around 100$ as well.
With all of the cheaper blurple boards I had, I was fine vegging usually, flowering and fruiting was typically extremely difficult however. Both of my current lights do fine through all stages.
The cheapies usually will work fine for things like herbs or microgreens, but begin to show their true colors of being cheap when you get either too big of a plant or are trying to get a plant to flower and put on fruit. That's my experience at least.
Pretty sure I just picked up that same light on Amazon for $100. Anyway, there is a cree model of it that is a little better if you're willing to pay that price. Here is the one I picked up 4 days ago at $100, now it's $135 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I4NY8KW/
I have been considering this COB LED myself.
Do you want to buy or is DIY an option?
DIY with Strips is fairly easy. But I don't know about canadian prices and availability of components.
An easy yet efficient solution would be 2 vegging QB.
Gonna keep it and supplement with 2 of these as well HLG 65 V2 4000K Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom 4000K | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076QDKVDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrRyDbA5DK6M1
I am just getting into the hobby so I don't have any real results, but I posted the same question here a few weeks ago and was recommended this: https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-4000K/dp/B076QDKVDZ?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_18674157011
I ordered it and like it so far. Very bright, lightweight (I am holding it in place with only a few zip ties), and doesn't get too hot. They also make a bigger one if you're going to have a lot of plants: https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_18674157011
Edit: don't worry about the gallium aluminum arcenide, it is encapsulated in acrylic plastic & not going anywhere. Just like a phone or a computer 😆
These are exactly the kind of answers I'm looking for! Anything to cut down on noise and heat is great, as for quantum boards, will something like this work or would I need to invest a bit more? And would leaving the flap on the tent open allow light to leak?
two of these combos or however you want to do it.
Also, you could look into DIY LED lights to save some cost. Ledgardener.com has good info.
I recommend getting a soil test. You can order a kit from Amazon or send a sample off for analysis.
Your pH could be off or your soil may need fertilizer. To grow anything you need to start with the dirt and then work your way up.
This little kit will get you started off in the right direction. I use this one and highly recommend it.
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZL3vDb8Z2TNZ2
> see http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
As an alternative to this test, check your local coop extension. They'll likely do a test for a similar amount, but it will be much more accurate. They'll also make recommendations on how to rectify any deficiencies.
You're welcome! I forgot to mention that before you seed you may also need to put some nutrients back into the soil. A soil test will help tell you what you need. If you want a pro test, these guys can do it, or you can talk to your local state/agricultural university (not sure where you are in zone 6, but I know that Virginia Tech and NC State offer these services, other states most likely do as well). The university tests may be less expensive.
After the soil test comes back, adjust the pH and add nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium (those are the numbers on the bags of fertilizer, like 10-18-10/N-P-K) as necessary. Good luck!
dont matter ph is a huge part to play in your plants life. you might want to invest in this https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845 so u get more than one reading on ph and npk of soil . if its reading is 6-7 your okay then its not a ph problem. its probably the temps or idk because twisting and irregular leaves are caused by ph
Well I can say with some confidence that you're overwatering it. It's allowed to get a little dry on the soil surface. Tomatoes like it moist, not wet, so a good rule of thumb is always to water when you feel it dry about an inch into the soil (like stick your finger in). Tomatoes do need water, yes, but they also need oxygen and drowning won't allow them to "breathe". You also risk washing out nutrients needed by watering so much. Think of a sponge. You want the roots to be as moist as a wrung out sponge - still moist but not dripping from holding all that water in it.
Without looking too much into it (there are many number of things that can affect a plant and sometimes similar symptoms will have completely different causes), I would take a guess that it's a nutrient deficiency. If you've got other plants, it might be fun/worth it to get one of these kits to test it.
In lieu of that, since you're probably using standard potting soil from Home Depot which is usually fine I'd say re-pot it and stick to a slower watering schedule. Also don't forget to fertilize regularly and watch out for various insects throughout its growth.
You can buy a soil test kit for really cheap!
It’ll tell you exactly what your plant needs :)
Lots of good questions here!
> I put down a scotts crabgrass preventer and lawn food a few weeks ago and am aware I should fertilize again in the summer I think?
Yes but it depends on temperature. Synthetic fertilizer can stress the lawn when it is very hot. You can apply an organic slow release like milorganite or ringer which is lower in nutrients and is less likely or won't burn your lawn in high heat.
> I've though about aerating or dethatching but don't want to disturb the preemergent layer and am not sure if I need it. How do you tell if should dethatch or aerate?
Unless you can run your hand through the lawn and scrape up a fist full of thatch, you don't need to dethatch right now. You can dethatch and aerate in the fall as part of your winter prep.
> I've sprayed almost 2 gallons of roundup weed and grass killer on it over the last few days and there is still a lot of green, should I just give a week or so to see what all dies (I thought it would be faster acting)?
About 1 gallon per 300 square feet is sufficient so you've potentially more than doubled what you needed to put down (assuming 40% glyophosate strength). Hold off on applying anything else. Water this area really well. Roundup (glyphosate) is absorbed through the green leaves so it will be slow to act if the target plant is not actively growing. Give it three weeks before you reassess. It takes time.
> From reading online I'm thinking I should put down a broadleaf preemergent on the old mulch soon and also apply some kind of fertilizer to all the shrubs and bushes before the mulch gets put down.
You can use Preen either on top of the new mulch or on top of the old mulch before new stuff goes down. It's activated after the first rain or watering I believe so it will make it's way into the soil. It works by stopping root development in new plants so it won't effect established plants. Its safer than spraying a broad weed killer or pre-em since that may damage some shrubs.
> What kind of fertilizer should I use and how much?
You can use all-purpose miracle grow liquid which is easy to mix or use in the hose spray bottle. Another option might be Osmocote which is a slower-release all purpose fert in pellet form.
> I have some bags of composted steer manure I was thinking of just putting a mound around each plant underneath the weed barrier fabric.
That can work too.
> The old mulch I should say isn't very thick so I am just planning on leaving it.
> Can I do all this without collecting, sending out, and paying for soil samples for each of these areas?
Yes. You can also get the diy soil test kit probably not as accurate as a lab but will give you an approximation.
*Edit - also yes, it will feel overwhelming and you won't get all of it done in the first year. Maintain what you have an improve in small chunks. It will come together.
You can test it yourself
Edit: if you don't want to do it yourself a University in the area usually offers the service. I live in Michigan, and Michigan State University will do testing for $23 a sample.
These are the types I have used for my lawn (small pill that you dump into water you've mixed with the soil and left sit over night, then match the colors). They worked very well. However, I am a big fan of getting your local university extension office to test your soil. Most of them do it fairly cheaply (or for free).
You're porb a few brews away (or you're in an apartment not a house of area where you can brew outside) this is by far the best thing I bought for a five gallon brew, also you can get a better regulator for it so when you do make the change from all extract, to mini-mash, to all grain, you'll be fine...
It gets five gallons of wort boiling in under 10 mins. It's a beast...
just something to think about when you move out of the apartment, my brother-in-law has the same one and he brews on top of his apartment building in Brooklyn.
I highly recommend a KAB4 or KAB6. Either will blast the seasoning off of your cast iron, so dedicate a griddle to it and keep it oiled. The crust they put on steak is unbeatable. Use a lid to keep the flames from your steak under control, and gently flip every 10 to 15 seconds. You can stirfry a meal in ~2 minutes. Though use a wok without wooden handles, as they'll catch fire. If you ever want to brew beer, have a seafood boil, or deep fry a turkey, it works well for that too.
If it's windy, make a wind shield by wrapping a few layers of aluminum foil around the body. It will melt eventually, but it will hold up for several uses.
Buy once, cry once. Do you want to buy something now that will last you a very long time, or something you might find yourself upgrading in a couple years?
Lasts a long time
I've heard a lot of people like this one - http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413468281&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=banjo+burner.
Personally i've been using a blichman burner for about 2 years and its still humming away. They are twice the price though and I can't say if they a worth that extra money or not. I will tell you that they are sturdy as hell and easy to clean.
+1 to what opiate82 said regarding plan for the future.
A brew buddy of mine uses one of these sq-14 burners for 5 gallon batches and it works quite well.
I have a Blichmann burner and love it. That being said, you could buy a KAB4 burner which is the same burner but with different housing and save a few bucks.
A word of caution on the non SS bayou classic burners, the paint will burn off 15 seconds into your first usage, and the frame will eventually rust away.
You are not doing a 7 gallon batch in a 7 gallon brew pot. I am going to guess you are doing between 5 and 5.5. While I am sure you can buy any size if you look enough, most carboys are 6.5. Any less for a 5 gallon batch and you will be losing a lot in the blow off. The 2k would go quick on some
Quadruple that would be 20 gallons. Brewtech gear doesn't really support 20 gallon batches. A 20 gallon mash tun will have you failing to brew anything with a high gravity. You could do 15 gallon batches. A 30 gallon brew pot would avoid boil overs. 18 or so gallons or wort boiling away can create 10 gallons of foam, easy. They also have 17 gallon conicals with some extra head space for fermentation. I would grab one of those as well. You will need to build a massive wort chiller if you don't go with an option that has one. Then you need temp control. All together thats 2100. Then you need a 210K BTU burner, if yours is the usual 50K or so type. http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY
Going pro is a bit different. Electrical requirements and all other things can come into play as boiling methods start to change. If you do go pro, this could at least serve as a good way to do test batches to see how your customers feel about new brews.
You could go with something that has a banjo burner, like the Bayou KAB4 might give you better control of your heat.
Something like a KAB4 burner and propane tank would be ideal:
Then you can grab a 10-15.5 gallon pot, either from Amazon (Bayou or Concord), Homebrewing.org, MoreBeer, etc.
A couple paint strainer bags or specially made "Brew Bag" can act as a filter.
This should add up to about half your budget. Then you can look into other recommendations here in the thread for the rest.
Get a KAB4 like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JXYQY?fp=1&amp;pc_redir=T1 . You will not be disappointed!
I can't say enough good things about my KAB4 burner. It cranks out heat and gets the boil going way faster than my old one. link here
Also as others have said the cooler plus brew bag is a great arrangement for the mash tun. It makes cleaning a breeze, you don't have to worry about stuck sparges, and you can crush the grain finer for better efficiency.
I've recently bought nicer equipment to homebrew with. I now have a nice propane burner, and 16gal stockpot with weldless spigot. (For reference this is the burner: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYQY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
and this is the stock pot:
The last step for moving my brewing setup outside is a wort chiller.
My first question is do I need a wort chiller at this point if I still want to do some 5gal extract brews? I figure with a 2.5-3 gal boil volume, the burner and 16gal pot might be extreme overkill.
At some point I would like to do 5gal all grain batches or at least BIAB, which I think needs the wort chiller at a minimum to cool properly.
My second question is will a 25in premade wort chiller fit properly or do I need to make my own, assuming the chiller needs to hang above the sediment, and not lay on the bottom of the pot.
Edit: I was doing some more research, and I decided to go with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D50LO8/ref=s9_simh_hd_b14JJvX_p79_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0X0PBZVYQ8CGW12NKNBN&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=2223253542&amp;pf_rd_i=979843011
I think it will do the job, and avoid any issues fitting or making an immersion chiller.
Close: Red Dragon BP 2512 SVC 400,000 BTU Weed Dragon Backpack Propane Vapor Torch Kit with Squeeze Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7PQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.FPgDbWHQQJJM
This should be standard issue in Australia now.
This is the best I found on Amazon
Well, they do sell a flamethrower.
If it doesn't work out, you can always buy a flamethrower to melt the snow instead :D
I wasn't aware until just now that you could buy a flamethrower via Amazon :O
There's actually a pretty simple solution to keep those snakes off your dock for good: link.
Omg, I'm so sorry for you. I have a "thing" about spiders, too; I'm not sure it qualifies as a phobia, it's sort of just, you know, blind terror. One of the first questions I ask in any relationship is "will you be responsible for killing the spiders?"... And, no, I'm not kidding.
So I don't really have any suggestions for you other than burn down your house (or school), check into a nice hotel, and move on with your life. I really just wanted to give you internet hugs and commend your bravery.
Maybe this? Stay safe!
You should consider buying a TDS meter like this one. It allows you to accurately keep track of the solution strength.
Don't worry about buying a more expensive one, you won't need much for a home project.
I got the pH meter above, and this TDS meter, whilst my cabinet is monitored inside and at exhaust exit with this temp/humidity gauge with min/max for all fields.
Combined price is < $60.
Seems to work just fine.
But I do like the gizmo you linked to. Maybe for a hydro setup?
Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!
Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent
Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2
Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1
Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller
PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter
PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester
Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting
Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)
Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart
PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit
Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix
Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2
Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25
Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)
So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.
It is possible that you could have pretty decent tap water. Your best bet would be to get a TDS meter to determine the amount of total dissolved solids. Preferably you would want less than 5ppm.
People have successfully kept saltwater aquariums without RO/DI, but using RO/DI water limits the chance of any nuisance algae and poor water quality as some tap water already has ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in it. I would recommend using RO/DI water, but if you don't want to have to buy a unit - you could always buy RO/DI water from your local fish store. It's usually ~$1 per gallon. I would advise against any prepackaged "Natural Sea Water" though... which is like $15 for 4 gallons, so you'll know the difference.
I would think it would give you a basic idea of quality.
$15.37 HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy
Thanks for the shoutout! Glad I could be of some help!
Ok, so let's get started.
First, what part of Texas are you in? I believe you have native CP's closer to the eastern part of the state.
Now to answer your questions:
As far as the next ingredient, I go with Silica Sand which is also called pool filter sand. Do not use play sand, paver sand, etc. only Silica Sand/ Pool Filter sand. This is the brand that I use. I've hear Quikrete makes some, but it's not available in my area. I typically do a 50/50 or 60/40 mix. If your area is fairly dry, I'd probably do a 60 Sphagnum/ 40 Sand mix. You can add perlite if you'd like, but I'm not sure it's necessary. Other optional additions are long pine needles and long fiber sphagnum top layer. Long fiber sphagnum as a top layer would be good if your climate is fairly dry as it will supplement the plants with some humidity.
Yeah I didn't go into it expecting much (an ounce or two) so we'll see what it comes out too, i'll be happy to get that.
Here are the links for the meters I get. I tested the ph meter and compared it to drops and it is spot on. Not sure about the ppm one but it got good reviews.
Thanks for checking out my grow!
They can also be referred to as total dissolved solids or TDS. You can purchase a TDS/TSS meter to measure that, but you should do some research first to understand what you're measuring and what your TDS is in your water source.
If you want shrimp for algae control, look at amano shrimp, which are usually large enough to fend for themselves when housed with a betta. In a 5 gal, one would certainly do the trick.
If you like live protein, I recommend getting 1500 live ladybugs: http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC.
It works out to less than 1% of a penny for each ladybug. Now that's frugal.
Here, assuming Amazon ships to Mexico.
If you touch your phone in the right places, you can have a Ladybug infestation.
Let a bunch of ladybugs loose in the office.
Live Hissing Cockroach. Only 3 left, so act now!
Cow eyeballs in bulk!
Liquid Ass. You can always hope it leaks!
They look like aphids to me.
Looks like you've got a great excuse to buy yourself 1,000 or so ladybugs. They'll take care of those aphids in no time. Home improvement places often sell ladybugs or you can get them from Amazon.
I've used lady bugs with success in my garden beds and herb containers. Last year I used them for aphids my tomatoes and peppers and this year I used them on my chives for aphids and whiteflies on my rosemary. Worked well for both aphids and whiteflies. I suggest watering before releasing them, I have noticed they stick around longer this way. I've seen some people make little water feeders for them out of a bowl with pebbles, I'm going to try that next time. My only concern for you getting them in FL is how they will hold up to transportation in the heat. Also be sure to check your mail box constantly you don't want them roasting in there. Last summer I had them delivered in 80 degree weather and they were fine. I get them on Amazon, about $10 with shipping there are different sizes from multiple sellers. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ixvKXplSmVp5v
there was another post about ordering lady bugs on amazon or so...
If you want to try organic... I would skip the bug bomb then though ;)
1500 Lady Bugs! Guaranteed LIVE delivery.
Lady Bugs are lucky, right? Maybe I'll win this contest! :)
Hope you had a great Dang Cake Day!! ;)
Amazon har haft:
desværre udsolgt. Måske du skal vente til foråret
Look online, like amazon you can prime order these, they are dirt cheap, like 5$ for 1500. They are kept dormant for long periods in fridges and they are sold as a commodity. There's an endless sea of lady bugs in bags lots of organic farms and stuff will buy these guys to fight off aphid infestations instead of using pesticides... with mixed successes, some people swear by them others that they are a waste of money and either die in a day or fly off.
But yeah ... People buy them in these bags all the time to set them free in their yards gardens, that's exactly their use case, so... ya you're totally just inducing more demand.
Alternatively if you want the problem solved in a more nuclear fashion... https://www.amazon.com/72-000-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed/dp/B01B205Q0U
or thru the mail like this
She definitely overpaid. =}
I think it is better to encourage the locals to populate though, however in Germany, Netherlands and presumedly Switzerland there are already huge populations of the Asian Multicolor that I do not know if it can get any worse for the natives.
This one is a different species though:
2000 beetles for $25. And some of the related products include ladybug food to keep them from straying so quickly.
But you are correct! Crazy expensive in the UK (which is like Switzerland in being outrageous price-wise, or unwise maybe):
Germany though has German eBay and its own Amazon and prices can be super reasonable there.
Another strategy is to not release all of them at once which would cause an over-population almost guaranteed to make them disperse.
Ladybugs can be safely kept in the refrigerator produce drawers which stimulates winter for them. But they are hungry when released so hence the ladybug food to keep them from straying.
And it is a good idea to familiarize oneself with what the larvae of all of them look like because they scare most people who do not know and think they are monsters (so often sadly kill them).
Anyway, there are a lot of other organic and inexpensive strategies such as neem oil, insecticidal soap, and even nicotine (not a lot).
Subscription glitter mail; packaging changes every time.
Use other substances, e.g. flour, live ladybugs, farts (somehow), etc.
Make a business essentially facilitating harassment.
1500 Live Ladybugs.
$12 for 1500 ladybugs on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OzELwbD6TB1XM), including shipping.
12000 lady bugs
According to my research, a bag of ladybugs (totalling 1500 ladybugs) costs 14.50 US, plus shipping. To get at least three milllion, you'd need to buy 2000 bags, which equals 3 million ladybugs. This alone (14.50 x 2000) would cost you 30800 US, plus shipping. This also isn't including replacements for any ladybugs that die during transit or insurance for the ladybugs.
As for the panini press, you'd have to get it custom made as I could not find a gold panini press commercially available, let alone one with a custom penis imprinter. Gold is currently going for about 45 US a gram, plus you'd need to implement a working design that isn't copyrighted by an existing manufacturer, plus have an artist design plates for the penis imprinting. You'd probably be spending at least 100k.
However, despite the extra cost I think it would be worth it in the end.
"many, many lady bugs"
for very cheap, you can buy many, many lady bugs.
25 dollars would basically get you 4500 lady bugs.
wake up call at 5:00Am
This is all i got at the moment.
Hey there! I am in the same zone as you up in Maryland. :)
Final tip: You will learn more from your mistakes than successes. I know it hurts to see root rot kill some seedlings. It just happens. Learn from it.
These are the bugs I got. This company also sells praying mantis larvae so I think I’ll try those a little later in the summer. It took about a week for them to get here and I’d say maybe 100-200 were dead but I noticed them mating immediately when I released them so here’s hoping they’ll just continue to increase!
1500 Live Ladybugs - $3.75. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00533KOIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1410401568&amp;sr=8-2
Bought Lady Bugs on amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00533KOIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
I think that these are always good to have in your sock drawer!
No WAY i'm sending ladybugs in the box i ship! Why would I do such a thing? Frankly, I'm offended you would suggest such a thing.
I am also a solar panel noob but i just managed to set up a system in my bus. I went with 4 renogy panels, they're cheap, good, and seem to have a good customer service.
We have 3 of them for 2 people. You will need a charge controller to regulate the energy going to the battery. If you opt for a nicer MPPT controller, you will have 30% more nergy coming to the battery. That's what we did.
For more of an idea on what to do for the electrical system, i used a video by a guy named campervan cory.
If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Solar pannels are always getting better, just do some quick checks on the internet(amazon for me) and compare the efficiency of the panels. If the efficiency it is not directly stated divide the panels power by the panels size. Ex 100Watt panel / (47.3" X width 21.3" ) = 0.1 watts per square inch.
my example pannel
Has a much bigger battery, has an AC inverter. Only issue is the inverter is rated up to 120w. This mean you can run a laptop and other small devices but don't expect to get to run things throughout the weekend. Much better than what op linked. However w/ the panel it's almost 4x the price.
It sucks that the solar panels cost extra but if you were to buy now, the 25w panels are on sale. I would get two and hopefully get up to 50w (under optimal conditions).
It would be nice for car camping or a camper. If it's a permanent or even semi permanent installation, It would be better to purchase a larger panel, solar controller/charger, deep cycle large capacity battery and an inverter.
100w panel ($120) - https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O/
Simple Charger/Controller ($15) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WZB5XY/
AC inverter ($35) - https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Converter-Charging-Smartphones/dp/B01B3ZQG4O/
100Ah SLA Battery (Apprx $100) - Autoparts/Big Box Stores
Ends up being a $270-$300 investment. That's not bad. If you were to buy the monoprice system w/ larger solar panel, it would be close to $300 and it wouldn't anywhere as efficient as if you were to make your own system. Only thing are sacrificing is portability and weight. A 8Ah battery will be much smaller and lighter than a 100Ah+ SLAB but won't last anywhere as long. If you have a rainy/cloudy week, good luck.
However if you are dead set on this, one option would be to get something like this "solar generator"
This should have enough battery capacity to take you 24 hours before it needs a recharge ( it could go about 2 days, but that would reduce battery life significantly). If you add a 100W solar panel you should be able to keep it charged up.
The "generator" above has a built in charge controller so you just need to plug in the solar panel and put the panel in full sun ( any partial shade dramatically lowers the charging). It also charges from a wall plug or a 12V outlet, so if the sun isn't out you can charge it from the car engine.
I don't know how big your trailer is, but this 100W solar panel is about 1.2m x 0.54m.
100W x ~4.5 (guessing) hours of equivalent ideal sunlight in Romania, per day, equals 450wh. 450wh/48V = ~9.7Ah. That's assuming no losses from the power converter and charger, which would likely bring you closer to 6.5Ah after a full day of charging.
We really need solar panels with higher conversion rates.
I picked: Model MB7420 motorola for an example.
power draw: 12v @ 1a. 12 watts.
12v supply is really REALLY nice for the next thing i'm going to suggest: solar and a battery.
26 bucks for a charge controller:
46$: a 20 amp hour battery will be more than enough to get your thru the night. if you're concerned about cloudly days then you can double it up.
130 bucks for a 100watt solar panel
figure 20-30 bucks in wiring and mounts and random stuff.
total cost to power it: 200-250$.
This is what I have used - https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
Fellow Michigander here. You have plenty of time to get your yard off to a good start. I brought in soil but it is not always needed. Check and see where you are after the test.
So I did the soil test kit that I bought. According to it the pH of my soil is at least 7.5, maybe a bit higher and the nitrogen content isn't detectable it's so low. Everything else looks good. I find it to be a bit odd considering the container is full of a rough mel's mix I put together of peat moss, vermiculite, compost, composted manure, and mushroom compost.
What would you recommend I do to the soil? As of right now the only ferts I have are 9-12-12, 4-15-14, and some miracle grow spray stuff that is 12-4-5.
Can we be best friends??!
I have an idea for experimenting with Mead lees for fertilizer. Think straight up 4th grade science fair type stuff. Bean plants, same soil, same light, measuring how tall they get over a period of time. I think I'll start with a pure mead and experiment with various dilution amounts. Then I might go for a second round (once I've decided on optimum dilution from the first round) with various types of flavored mead. What I'd really like would be to test the contents of the lees for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels so I could compare it to fertilizers. So I'll probably buy something like this!
We could go into alcohol experimentation business together!
You can try bone meal, but the only way to tell if there is a nutrient deficiency is to test the soil. I used this kit and it was pretty simple.
As for pests, there are plenty of sprays available. Regardless of which one you choose, the important part is to be consistent and don't stop when you first see an improvement. There are still eggs that will hatch and start the whole process over again.
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xv3yDbN3J1V2W
it wasn't an actual test by a lab i tried using one of these
I agree, it's either that they're over-watered, malnourished, or both. If they're over-watered, the roots aren't getting any oxygen. They need to drink, but they need to breathe, too. If they sit in water, they rot.
This soil test is a good investment if they don't perk up from less frequent watering. It'll tell you what kind of fertilizer you need.
Yeah for sure. Buy something like this. You'll get an idea if your lawn is depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash. You'll also get a measurement of the soil's pH level.
I'd fix the soil first. Thick, lush grass depends on healthy soil.
Hey, you seem very knowledgeable. Would this be a good test kit?
Also, I moved into a new house last fall. The grass in the front yard has some bald spots that I would like to try and remedy. When is the best time to hit this with fresh soil and grass seed? When is the best time to fertilize? Also, how to you pick which grass seed to buy? Thanks for any help with this.
wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/
I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol
I test the soil in my gardening bed. I'm too scared to test the rest of my yard's soil, hah. This is the tester I use-- it's pretty fun!
The first year I found out my soil was low in Nitrogen so I amended with blood meal. This year I only amended with composted manure and things seem pretty happy.
No print out - I used this for the soil, and my API aquarium test kit to test the water.
How do the leaves feel? I'm not terribly experienced but if they're soft and limp (derp) then you're over-watering, crisp and under-watering. Both will have the same sag \ limp. Feel the weight of the pot and feel the soil a couple inches down to confirm if it needs water or not.
Get a soil kit like this and test your PH \ Nutes. Dial in your nutrients and correct the PH.
For the lighting, if money is an issue, you can add some CFL (2700k) for the cool color spectrum.
Maybe a nitrogen or calcium deficiency? Have you tried a soil test kit? https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?adgrpid=61570362848&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv_ubt6Pm5QIV__7jBx1n-AzhEAAYAiAAEgLpV_D_BwE&amp;hvadid=274709675642&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9019526&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t2&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=1201305533024357561&amp;hvtargid=kwd-300627101412&amp;hydadcr=5600_9612358&amp;keywords=soil+ph+tester&amp;qid=1573616812&amp;sr=8-20
>Will something like this work?
>Or should I get the real soil savvy test where I send it in?
I have both the 3in1 light/moisture/ph stick which seems to be accurate enough. Then I picked up this rapid soil test kit with N, P, K level tests included.
Thanks. I was just going to buy a soil test on Amazon. Something like this. Not good enough?
If you have a yard, you can get outdoor propane cookers that work well. This one puts out 200,000+ BTU, for example, which is more than enough for cooking in a wok (maybe a bit too much, actually, but you get the point).
Sadly, there were TONS of companies who made these. There were some Griswold versions out there, but this isn't one of them, at least according to the Blue Book. I like the idea that you are going to restore this. Make sure you rebuild the valves completely and put a modern safety regulator before them.
As a fellow beer brewer....Don't use this. Beyond the fact that a pot big enough to boil 5+ gallons of beer will be iffy on it, you don't know how this burner is jetted, if its for natural gas or for propane.
Also, even if it's jetted properly, it's going to have a miserably small BTU rating. It will take ages for this thing to bring your beer to a boil.
Go buy this. That 10" propane burner puts out 210,00 BTU and has a mega-sturdy stand for under a hundred bucks. It drinks propane like I drink beer, but it brings my 10 gallon batches (typically 12 gallons before boil-off) to a boil in very reasonable time. Accept no smaller burner.
Don't give up on your cool cast iron burner set, make it part of your patio kitchen, just not part of your brewery.
Budget: $40 turkey fryer special from Academy/Dicks/Walmart/wherever. You get a burner and a 7.5 gallon pot. Upgrade to a 10 gallon pot for piece of mind in re boil-overs (get the 10g SS Bayou Clasic with stamped volume markers for another $40).
I've been using my cheapo academy sports burner alongside a bigger banjo burner for the last year without problems. In this department I think many "homebrew namebrand" are over-engineered or suffering from marketing-magic markup. A 220K burner that can be load bearing is just that. A buddy of mine uses two of these KAB4s with dual 20 gallon kettles.
A knockoff Bayou KAB4 - https://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-outdoor-range-patio-stove-with-hose-guard-210-000-btu/554BPHP17.html
Or the real deal - https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_86_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1EZAJA23QSXG0Q3DEHG9
My kettle is 16" diameter and the large burner fits perfectly. And the frame is heavy duty.
No problemo. Are you not able to use your stove? I've never used a hotplate but I've heard they are hit or miss, and sometimes take a while to build up pressure in your PC.
If you are able to work outside this thing is a beast!
KAB4 or SAB4 are great options!
A lot of people, myself included, prefer the banjo style burner. I have a Blichman which I love, but Bayou makes one as well for a lot cheaper. I think they have basically the same burner, but the Blichman has a much sturdier stand.
Maybe look for propane burner instead.
Here is one example of what I talked about:
It more of a convenience, it takes 15 minutes to boil 5 gallon batch (which ends up being 7-10 gallons with grain). It would take much longer on stove.
You also want vigorous boiling for
As for the stirrer - if you plan on making beers that require bigger starters like Lagers or high gravity beers you would either need to buy more yeast or make a starter. How it works - you boil some DME or LME with water, cool it and pitch yeast there. Then put the stirrer on to agitate it. It will be done in 24 hours or so.
For dry yeast it's cheaper just to buy more packets and pitch more - less problems and work well.
There are a lot of burner that will work just fine. I started with a Bayou Classic, which worked good for 5 gallon batches- took about 20-30 minutes to get 7 gallons to a boil; my brother currently uses this burner and likes it just fine.
I now use 2 Bayou KAB4 burners, which kick royal ass- I can get 13 gallons of wort to a boil in about 15 minutes, and that's using natural gas, which is slightly less efficient than propane.
I have a couple buddies who recently bought The Dark Star Burner, both speak very highly of it. I'm not sure if it'd be terribly sturdy on batch sizes larger than 5 gallons.
Hope that helps!
I would stay away from that starter kit. Not because its bad per se but its not worth 180 bucks. And I prefer plastic buckets over glass carboys. If you want you can convert a cooler to a mash tun but I would start with BIAB and you then can increase the complexity of your system as you see fit.
Here is my recommendation of equipment. I am function over form driven when selecting my gear. I find that these items serve their purpose at a reasonable price and are of good quality and unless you want to start doing 15 gallon batches they should serve you well.
44qt Pot with basket
Ball Valve for Kettle
Bag for BIAB
Having used both the SP10 and the KAB4, I would definitely recommend the KAB4.
That will be good! for the burner side, S/S Chugger pump should do fine as well. http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=pd_sim_86_4?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Nd4L70Q5L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR134%2C160_&amp;refRID=0ZZ7KD388MKSQGTEH58F is a bit cheaper.
If money is no object?
Kettle - I agree with you on the Ss Brewtech
Propane Burner - KAB4 which myself and many here use. Same burner as the Blichmann, but half the price.
Chiller - JaDeD Hydra. Literally unrivaled. You're looking at chilling in MINUTES. My 50' stainless chiller previously chilled 6 gallons in ~15 minutes with crazy stirring. The Hydra is worth its weight.
Fermentors - 6 gal Better Bottle I ferment in corny kegs and 6.5 gal glass carboys. The glass scares the shit out of me though, so I've been slowly moving away from them. Don't go searching up the glass carboy horror stories thread on Homebrewtalk.
I've been eyeing this one up. Seems a lot of people have it and it works well. There is a complaint that most have about the paint burning off in the first couple uses, but I'll probably try to sand it off first.
It looks like a KAB4
It takes about 25-30 mins for ~8 gallons. It can probably do it much quicker, but you'll rip though propane. This thing doesn't sip, it funnels...
In case you'd rather have a much, much, much safer flamethrower for your back yard chores: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Dragon-BP-2512-SVC/dp/B000NI7PQG/ref=sr_1_1
This should take care of it.
Predicament? It's a gift! The universe has given you an excuse to buy a flamethrower. After pics please.
Looks like you need one of these.
if you like torching sugar, you will love torching weeds:
Here's something that may be of OP's interest.
you know propane is much more stable and cost effective. you can make a flamethrower with a backpack frame, milk crate,a pare burner. and a propane tank for really cheap. or buy the red dragon for like $283. They also work great for organic weeding in rocky areas, or melting snow.
Hurry! There's only one left in stock Then you can end up on a trip with the boys in blue like this guy did!
Just use this
The following comment by Soren11112 was openly greylisted.
The original comment can be found(in censored form) at this link:
The original comment's content was as follows:
> I posted this(proof if you don't believe me)https://imgur.com/a/hgepj :
> You want a flamethrower, there are much better options. Re-usable but profitable, I agree that is an advancement, but not enough to be greatly profitable. The space shuttle program sported reusable shuttles but was certainly not profitable. It has been proven SpaceX get huge subsidies. The fundamental idea of the HyperLoop is flawed, that is not so for reusable rockets. This just shows how close minded you are that you attack when your ideas are questioned. You have showed me that you can't think for yourself for do reasearch. Here is a high quality flamethrower, here is a mid-tier DIY one, and here is the equivalent of The Boring Flamethrower. As a hobbiest rocketeer I have a made bigger more substainible flames in my backyard for $5
> EDIT: I fixed because i forgot the links
Not quite the same, but what about this? Red Dragon
Ask and you shall receive
Looks like a cobalt, or the Pontiac equivalent. If so it would be easier to use this.
Cheap TDS (total dissolved solids) testing kit:
Or any meter that measures EC/TDS.
I tested the distilled i was using and it read less than 5. Then my tap was 400, my shrimp tnak was 385 and my 20 gallon fish tank was at 550. So i think it was reading right. I ordered this one. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Im not sure there is a way to change it and i think it only measures PPM
El cheapo: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
These cheap ones don't adjust to temperature, so you'll have to consider that if you're reporting your values for some kind of project. They calibrate it at 25 degrees C, so any temp lower than that is going to over-estimate your TDS.
pH is as simple as getting a test kit at a pet store.
I add 3 tablespoons per gallon or 12ml/liter of FloraGro into my water for an aggressive vegetative growth period. This is basically all of the time, because of what I'm growing - herbs and lettuce that is constantly harvesting and never flowering.
In the guide and video I made, I bought soil starts that were a bit beyond seedlings to speed up the process, but I would recommend just starting with seed in the system so you avoid any dirt and bacteria that the soil might bring in. I get the brown jelly going on every now and then, and I think it's one of these:
As for changing the nutrients, I do a recirculating system where I only replace the water that gets used by the plants. So I fill it up once to start and then add water as necessary. I keep a 5 gallon barrel of water that is perfectly pH'd with nutrients added to make it a LOT easier.
To check the amount of nutrients you have going on you can spend 15 bucks and get this. It will let you know the parts per million of nutrient in your solution.
As for pH, it really doesn't fluctuate very much. I check it every now and then but as long as you pH correctly at the start, add the proper amount of nutrients to the water and refill as necessary then you are balancing pretty damn well.
I'm a bit confused on the science question, could you let me know what you mean by that?
No one has mentioned it so I will:
Get a Parts Per Million meter. It doesn't have to be a fancy one, and actually see what's going on. My water tastes and smells pretty bad, but is only around 170ppm total dissolved solids. If I simply let it sit in a jug overnight, it tastes way better because the chlorine evaporates.
Also, request an analysis from your local water company. In my state, they are required by law to send one annually. It's a list of every molecule in their sample, but with Flint demonstrating, the testers may "pre-flush" the pipes before taking a sample, so if you don't trust the municipality or private water works, you can get your own sample relatively cheap (Home Depot does them for free where I am).
All in all a reverse osmosis system, or even just a passive charcoal one, should help tons. The former can actually take out chemically bonded impurities, while the later removes suspended particulate.
You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.
>Where would one get such a meter?
This is the one I bought.
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dqfrzbBA5R7QJ
My take on this:
Make a choice: either continue as you do it now (salt hard water, attempt to use water softener system, without reading what it does to the water and tank inhabitants), or monitor results of each your action, by testing (GH, KH, pH, TDS) and do quick search for anything you would like to implement. Like water softener system and aquarium, what to do for reducing GH in aquarium water, and do not do that without testing results. I'm not attempting to lecture in any way, if it seems so, my apologies, was not intended to. Only this seems to me to be the main source of a problem.
Not the best, but good enough flow chart of connections between water parameters and what to change them, is here. pH and alkalinity are connected.
To know them, you will need GH/KH test kit, pH test kit, and, if you feel generous ($25), TDS meter and calibrating solution from the same seller, 342 ppm TDS. Why know TDS is here, scroll down to kidneys.
Each kind of aquatic animals has own limit of tolerances, if you place soft water tetra in Tanganyika water, it wouldn't be happy, I would expect it to die. See what animals you have and what are their requirements (fast online search for a name and GH, TDS).
Know your tap water, if you are using it. Test the same: GH, KH, pH, TDS, and nitrates.
Ask here, in separate thread or in quick questions thread, if this water could be used for your fish without altering it. If yes, you are good, use it without changing anything.
If not, now you have to figure out what would you do: changing your tap water or create artificial water, using RO water and remineralizer, creating water, suitable for your fish.
For USA, reverse osmosis system with carbon block for chloramines could be as low as $133 at Home Depot, don't know its gpd. There is cheaper RO Buddie, read from their manufacturer about chloramines, compare the size and cost of cartridges and make informed choice.
If use RO water, it could be used for diluting too hard tap water or for mixing it with remineralizer.
Mixing RO with remineralizer:
If you will need diluting hard water, control result by testing, and test ratio first in a small container (jar, glass).
Any changes in the tank should be slow, to avoid shocking fish. Powders should never be added to the tank, see manufacturer's directions.
Some are using Seachem Neutral Regulator to recrease water hardness by precipitating Ca and Mg, but you have to monitor results by testing, or you can overdose and kill animals this way. Not familiar with it, read FAQ there and Seachem Support forums for it. No guessing or assumptions, know what you are doing, after running trial in a separate vessel.
It took some time for me to come to this too, you are not alone in this.
Yeah def. grab one of these off amazon they are super cheap and usefull. https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Tds tester from amazon
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YGc-ybYV4Q0QV
HM Digital (brand) TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution for it. On the back it has to have "Calibrate with NaCl" screw. This one was available locally.
Aside from a good filtering setup, a cheap TDS tester like http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ will tell you if there's any increase in stuff in your water. You can measure your baseline for a while and if there's ever a perceptible change, you can test again. It won't tell you definitively what's dissolved in the water, but it can help you check.
Posting the same thing I did in /r/Plano on this since all of our water around here comes from NTMWD (Which has a purification plant in Wylie). While some may argue we're "within acceptable standards" I've always said on here when this comes up year after year when the lakes turn over and they load the water with chlorine there should be more science on what is acceptable for drinking water. Before that it smelled like swamp water when the lakes turned over, and this is like choosing between the lesser of two evils, I know. Would you rather drink bacteria or chlorine? I don't want to drink either, and that's why I bought a reverse osmosis filter.
Just like in recent history more science lead to the removal of lead in gasoline and paint. I personally don't drink the local water without reverse osmosis, filtering it first because I don't like the idea of putting "trace amounts" of carcinogens in mine or my kids bodies because some agency says the levels are "acceptable" and when very little information on what scientific studies were done for them to come up with what is "acceptable".
It also doesn't dispute the fact that our area has some of the highest concentration of PPM crap in our water than most of the nation. If you don't believe me buy a PPM pen off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY) and test your water. Compare to the rest of the US: https://www.h2odistributors.com/pages/info/hard-water-map.asp My tap water usually tests between 300-350 PPM. That's beyond red for that water redness map there and doesn't accurately reflect what our area tests.
If more science comes up with a warning that we should probably be reverse osmosis filtering our water before drinking until they can fix the supply problem, I'm fine with that. At least the information is out there for us. If not, I guess maybe when people die early from some form of cancer because they thought people like me were crackpot conspiracy theorists arguing on what is "acceptable", I guess that's just Darwinism in action.
Make no mistake, there probably won't be an easy long term fix. There are massive differences in how we treat water here compared to other states. For example on how corners are cut here, compare what they have in California for their intake, a cement lined reservoir:
To ours, a dirt reservoir:
Dirt brings algae and bacteria and drives TDS up. You have to treat that with Chlorine and other chemicals.
Just my 2 cents on why I drink RO water living here.
the Bluelabs gear is nice if you have the money.
I bought a simple $15 PH600 on amazon
and just as cheap a TDS meter
both work incredibly well
I am using this device:
I used this device on :
To answer your question:
Hey, I'm looking at amazing water test kits now -- what exactly should I be testing for? pH? something like this?
or this maybe?
When it was first introduced I wondered about the connected version. Couldn't see the difference between buttons on the brewer vs buttons on your phone. The fact that the price is lowered seems to substantiate my opinion. It's a "gee whiz look at what I can do" feature regardless of whether the feature makes any sense.
As far as water quality there's a difference between hardness (measured in grains) vs total dissolved solids per whatever(tds). There are kits to measure only hardness, but I think this device will tell you more about your water: https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
The common wisdom seems to be not to use softened water as it will not extract the tastes from the coffee properly. Rather, filter out the tds.
I use a Zerofilter, and Brita filtered water to bring the tds up to 75-100 or so which is the level I think I saw Behmor recommend at one point somewhere.
I honestly don't know where I read every 7 days but it seemed to make sense, re-fresh the water at least once a week. Are you saying it should be changed more often or less often?
I bought a PPM meter, this one, 515 reviews and still 4 1/2 stars. Hopefully it works, I've had no luck in the past with digital PH meters and just use the chemical test kit from General Hydroponics.
After reading everyones comments I'm definitely gonna set up a PH adjusted plain water reservoir. However I grow different strains at the same time (different finish dates, some like more or less nutes than others) so I can't use one general reservoir, which is why I decided upon DWC instead of other hydro options in the first place.
Do the nutrient bottles tell you what the desired PPM is? What happens if you don't have a filtration system and your starting out at about 300 ppm from my regular well water.
I think you should be fine using the maxigrow and cal-mag for now. I would not recommend using the rockdust or azomite though. You should get all you need in the maxigrow for now.
As for the TDS tester, I use this one It is cheap and works fine. It converts the PPM to EC by dividing the reading by 500. For example... 750PPM is going to give you a 1.5 EC. Some TDS testers in other countries will use a different conversion rate to get you the correct EC. EC is universal.
So lets say your peppers need to be at a EC from 1.3 - 1.8 "depending on the size." With the TDS meter I sent a link to, you would want your water to be at 650 PPM to 900 PPM. If your tap water is coming out of the tap already with a bunch of minerals already in it like 300 PPM worth, then you want to add your cal-mag and Maxigro until you hit that 650 to 900 PPM range.
As for your pH, you want to keep it as close to 6 as possible for peppers.
I edited it in. This one.
Here. It is by no means a "lab grade" device but gives great reference readings when analyzing how much your plant is eating (for my DWC setup anyways). I've never grown in soil but see people run a sort of "reference flush" to compare their previous runoff from the last time they watered to judge if their plants are consuming more nutes or more water so they can adjust their amendments accordingly. I do the same sort of thing on my hempy buckets but it is just so much easier since my medium is inert.
These are what I use. They work just fine.
I'm not really sure what scale tbh, here is a link to the pen I got on Amazon if that helps at all. It might appear a lot lighter than it actually is due to my light in the tent being so bright white. Here are some pics with the tent light off and my phone flash on. I'm not sure if that's the right shade of green or not. I just watered them again after reading some info online with recommendations on Coco watering. I adjusted it to have some calmag in it and increased the Flora Grow and lowered the Flora Micro. Had a ppm of about 580 this time. Hoping it will make them happier.
Would this work out?
Or this one?
I've always wanted to ship someone a couple thousand ladybugs.
Came here to say "aphids" as well. Can I reccomend the world's finest aphid "insecticide"? ;)
weirdest thing on amazon in my opinion would be 1500 live ladybugs for only $4 here
why would anyone need this? ludicrous!!
would love steam key for Keep Talking and Nobody Explodes.
Here is what you need in your life:
1500 Live ladybugs. Go wild.
Yea, or just online. Through amazon for example
Bing, Bang, Boom.
I've had good luck with these. Shipping these poor things in the Summer is kind of a gamble depending on your location, so ymmv.
[1500 new pets.](http://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1309570237&amp;sr=8-30%20and%20[Gummy%20Worms!!](http://www.amazon.com/Trolli-Gummi-Worms-16-oz/dp/B003DKA11M/ref=sr_1_25) And have $4 left over after shipping!
No! Get some good bugs that eat other bugs. [Preying Mantis.](http://www.amazon.com/Praying-Mantis-Case-Hatching-Habitat/product-reviews/B004LTFMAY
Ladybugs! They'll eat your bugs and birds will eat them.
I had chiggers, fleas and ticks. I put out 25 million beneficial nematodes. They cost $50 and ate the chiggers and everything. Cheaper than pesticide and I can plant whatever I want.
I don't recognize your little black pests, but something benign eats them.
Try putting rosemary, mint, or sage next to your basil. Companion plants can protect others.
I'm just going to go ahead and say 1500 ladybugs. I mean, I don't know what most people would need them for, but the idea is pretty wild. :P
1500 Live Ladybugs - Good Bugs - Ladybugs - Guaranteed Live Delivery! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uagoDbC32G7G1
This right here. You can even buy live ladybugs from Amazon.
Amazon to the rescue!
Not only should you not kill them, you can order them for your garden if you have an aphid problem. Serious gardeners absolutely order batches of them. I remember my mom having a bag of Ladybugs in the refrigerator waiting to be released.
1500 Ladybugs for $3.75 on Amazon
Looks like someone went overboard with amazon ordering these:
I'd say Aphids. You could try to get a close-up, for a better ID.
Most of my advice for aphids (soapy water in a squirt bottle, etc.) is more suited to gardens, not trees. Maybe hit up r/arborists?
Probably couldn't go wrong by hiring some ladybugs. Always make sure insect imports are legal in your area, since interstate delivery could be considered "importing"! Sometimes laws vary from state to state, maybe try a local source.
You can get some here 1500 Live Ladybugs - Good Bugs - Ladybugs - Guaranteed Live Delivery! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CBb7CbFFBA1FJ
You can get 1,500 of them for $25 here.
Yes. In fact, many people buy them by the thousand and put them in their own, personal gardens. Just search Amazon for ladybugs and you'll see collections of them for sale at around $3-5 plus shipping. For example, here's a pretty popular one selling 1,500 ladybugs for $3.75 + $5.65 shipping.
Yah. You want these: https://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lady+bugs&qid=1550688599&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Im just gonna leave this here
You can srnd 1000 ladybugs as a gift. My friend bought it off of Amazon and did that once a few years ago. Not sure if they still sell it
Edit: yup, you still can. It's super cheap too https://www.amazon.com/1500-Live-Ladybugs-Guaranteed-Delivery/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ladybugs&amp;qid=1555564122&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
A jeweler's loupe for admiring your dank weed
There are some videos on r/lsd, I think, of someone who combined these two trip toys. It ends up looking pretty cool. http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Motion-12665-1-Laser-Sphere/dp/B003150CFO // https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S3IBI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_jq4xwbNWTAEY9
1500 lady bugs
Edit: here's a video of those two projectors together https://youtu.be/1LSuhEAC3u0
Ladybug the SHIT out of his car.
Try a couple cases of these.
Try ordering ladybugs, they're cheap. I dunno if it will work, bur for ten bucks, it's probably worth a shot.
1,500 LIVE LADY BUGS for just ten dollars.
Or your just flaunting your most recent Amazon purchase.
edit: In the meantime hold your plants under running water if possible. A utility sink is great or a hose if outside. Just cradle the leaves and stem as you spray so as not to cause any damage.
You can get them on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00533KOIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V4qSCb1DZM8BV
I bought this package on amazon for $7.31. If you need ladybugs, I definitely recommend it. Every bug arrived alive!
Not out of control at all. Just need some predators. Hungry predators.
They'll wipe out that infestation in no time.
Best item on amazon is obviously 1500 live ladybugs, but as for practicality, I'd go with this. It's a single-serve teapot that nests in a perfectly sized teacup. Very cute and easy.
If cost is an issue, I'd suggest a crappy solar setup just to keep lights and fans going. There's also some DIY methods to greatly increase the efficiency of your cooler. With a highly efficient cooler and enough access to refill your ice there's not a lot of need to invest in a proper mobile refrigerator.
For some quick and dirty solar:
If you need more than 45W of power, add one of these buggers:
You can tie it into your current vehicle battery or split it up and get a dedicated battery or two for your power needs.
It would only cost you a fortune if you have to buy them. If you are Tesla and you are making those packs IN HOUSE then the cost will be much less. Plus easier to maintain them with your own experience staff. Tesla could essentially run a fully autonomous semi company and rip in huge profits moving items of all kinds around. Another thing is that semis+their vessels are very long and wide. Long and wide is perfect for solar panels. If they are fully autonomous and run all day long the sun could help out by some degree from continously charging. The more length and width the more solar panels you can place.
Here is a 100 watt solar panel:
So that is 47 inches long. 630÷47=13.4 So you'd be able to fit 13 and a half 100 watt panels on top. That is 1350 watts per hour. width of the solar panel is 21 inches. 102÷21= 4.8 So that is 4.8 rows of 13 and a half solar panels. I'm not the best at math but that would give you 1350×4.8=6480 watts per hour. That is almost 6.4k watts
Plus also this is just using a regular home solar panel. Tesla could make a more specialized panel that utilizes the space better with less losses. They could do so many more things to specialize the panel and therefore get more solar power out of it. So that 6.4k watts per hour figure could increase perhaps as high as 8.0k watts per hour or maybe more?
This is with out even taking the trailer truck portion into consideration (Where the driver used to be. Remember Autonomous.) Plus also you have the SIDES of the trailer though those won't be as effective as the top due to angle, but can still be used. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get 12.0k watts per hour through solar power with a trailer. Perhaps even higher like 15.0k watts.
Sure it won't keep the trailer moving indefinitely, BUT it should increase the range of the trailer by some degree. Again if they could reach a figure like 10.0k watts in solar power per hour it should definitely help with the range of the trailer.
I am bad at math I did mess it up
The solar panel in the photo looks a lot like a Renogy 12v 100 watt solar panel. You would need a minimum of 3 of those 100 watt panels along with a decent battery bank and sizable power inverter to power that refrigerator 24/7 while maintaining a fairly cool temperature inside of the fridge.
source - assuming "average use" for the fridge
So if I understand you correctly I can buy the product you linked as well as a solar panel such as this one
Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B9TqDb33X1GGH
And I should be fine for making let's say 10 margaritas a day for a week (assuming my solar panel is in the sun all day)?
Also does 288kh mean that, on a full charge, it will be able to power anything up to 288 watts for an hour before running out of juice (assuming it's not hooked to the solar panel)?
another thing... i looked at the renogy panel description and it says this:
Diodes are pre-installed in junction box and a pair of 31-inch cables with MC4 connectors comes with the panel automatically
so from my research, it really seems like the diodes which would bypass the entire panels... for when wired in series... would go in the junction boxes... essentially bypassing the entire panel if the previous panel was pushing more power? maybe? and that there would be no other real purpose for a diode in this location... so they already have bypass diodes?
> two 100W panels
Dimensions: 47 X 21.3 X 1.4 In
You're not going to mount those on the top of a station wagon.
I think this right here might be of interest to you.
I use the one in this video. Mine didn’t come with the laser site but I just ordered the one on the buddy’s second link above.
Amazon for $39.95: https://www.amazon.com/Bug-A-Salt-2-0-from-Skell-Inc/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538118821&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=BUG-A-SALT+2.0
And Laser Sight for $14.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JCGXZL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AD41K2AT7FJ9W&amp;psc=1
> there are more flies than I anticipated.
Then you need to get THIS!
I got one for my husband as a joke but it really work =)
I use an electric one if my cat doesn't eat the fly in the first place. Plus it's fun when you're drunk with friends. I would look into that salt shotgun thing, that looks fun.
Bug-A-Salt 2.0 from Skell Inc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.109Bb9VTMBHY
Between innings someone needs to get out there and use this
That’s a real thing and I want one
Salt shotgun FTW (SFW link unless toy guns that shoot table salt to kill bugs are a no-no)
this link is 50% cheaper than yours
They've got like a million eyeballs pointed in all directions and they live in slow motion.
Best $40 I ever spent. It shoots a blast of table salt that kills flies from 3 feet away.
Never thought of that, nice tip.
I just bought a Bug-A-Salt I can make use of this.
I bought it so my girlfriend and I can hunt roaches (since we live in an apartment and our next door neighbors are disgusting and no amount of spraying will keep the bugs gone long) I figured may as well have fun with it.
I hear the Bug-A-Salt actually works, and it's got to be a lot of fun.
Bug A Salt!!!!
haha I hate bugs in my house and this is the perfect solution!!!
I dont really need it because I have a fly swatter, but this is waaaaayyyyy better than a fly swatter!!!
You need a salt gun
I have a Bug-assalt air/salt weapon (it's a lot of fun). I just walk out and shoot all the hornets off the feeders after the hummingbirds scatter.
Fuck that, there's a fun way to kill the bastards, use the bug a salt rifle
^(I am a bot.) ^([Info](/r/SnapshillBot) ^/ ^[Contact](/message/compose?to=\/r\/SnapshillBot))
Bug-A-Salt 2.0 from Skell Inc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STSZ77G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bK3QCbYJQWYN6
get you one of this
The Bug A Salt is my preferred weapon for dealing with the bastards. It's a little air shotgun that shoots a spray of table salt. It's marketed as a way to deal with flies, but I find it works even better with mosquitoes (it is extremely satisfying to blow them out of mid-air!).
9ft metal hammock stand is what you are looking for. Not super light but easily carried on the beach. I bring mine to hotels, car camoing, etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fxCJxbB3HY36X
The diy stands are OK, but the long top bar is a pain IMO. I'd rather spend 30$ to avoid drills, saws, digging holes in the sand, making tiny parchuets that need to hold up a hammock, etc.
We have this at our house. We brought it a couple years ago. Breaks down pretty well and fit into the trunk of a Mazda3 easily. My advice would be to not buy a "compact" hammock stand just because it seems easier. We originally bought one that folds up into one piece. Sort of like one of those shitty camping chairs but a hammock. That thing was terrible and the fabric didn't breathe at all. Top 5 worst Bonnaroo purchases.
Prob a hammock stand
Here you go
yes! ihere it is
I want to get the Eno nomad system
But I'm currently lugging around a 40 pound generic Amazon frame
And I carry a small tent if I need to get out of the rain with that hammock frame. It's not ideal, but it's what I can afford.
Just buy a hammock stand, my friend brought one with him to ML and TW the past few years and it's awesome. Here's a link!
Check the Dimensions of Best Choice Stand on Amazon. It is listed as perfect fit for ENO Double nest:
Best ChoiceProducts Space Saving Steel Hammock Stand 9' Outdoor Patio Portable with Carrying Case
First year going to any music festival and incredibly excited to be going to roo. My buddy and I got an EZ Up canopy/tent from dicks for like $50 and I bought a [hammock stand](Best ChoiceProducts Space Saving Steel Hammock Stand 9' Outdoor Patio Portable with Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFH3TIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6x4VZYUbiUBOn) to use with my ENO for $55. I got an extra one for my buddy from my boss at work.
We're planning on putting up bedsheets/tapestries all around to avoid sweating at sunrise and getting sunburnt af.
EDIT: Also, from the research I've done, if you have a hammock, it should allow air to run above you and underneath you. Most people say it actually gets kinda chilly for them at night in a hammock.
I recently bought an Eno 2 with stand.
Definitely bring a stand cause tree spots get filled fast.
So if you want to buy it in person a Academy or Walmart may work well. I actually got mine from a friend and I believe they got it online. Mine looks exactly like this, each of the pieces comes off and are just straight steel tubes that fit together in a bag or car.
I got mine pretty cheap I guess compared to the other guys here:
I think it's hanging on a this.
Just buy that. To bolt it to a wall, you'd spend nearly as much on proper hardware. The stand is still less than the cost to repair your walls in a month.
Sadly can't use an Eno style hammock with this stand. That's a nice affordable option, but if you can manage the extra funds this style will be nicer, more sturdy, and more versatile. My oldest one is making it to its 4th Bonnaroo this year, and I recently bought two more to keep in camp for friends to nap in.
Have you considered just getting a chinese LED? They are like 70 bucks, sometimes as cheap as 55.
You using this light?
Looks like you have it 12-16" above plants and a what... 3'x3' area for each one? I just built mine, but was considering getting more or getting a setup for when the big plants get bigger than the shelving would allow.
Looks like you have ~13 tomatos under one and ~17 tomatos/peppers under the other... how big will they get until you plant outside? Will those 2 lights be enough? (Just trying to figure out my own logistics)
I like the room though btw :)
So If I would upgrade I'd probably take something like this Mars 300w. However I read that the true wattage is around 170w while the true wattage of my cfl setup would be around 184w. Is this relevant?
The link in the starter list doesn't work. But the Mars 300 are still widely available at cheap prices on Amazon and ebay
This is what I used for my 2x4 tent and it worked perfectly - https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B00XC3LBI2
Don't go with the cheaper light. 50w of red and blue led's arent going to be enough PAR to get you through flowering.
The 2nd option should work. but instead Look into mars hydro 300w LEDS. I've seen grow videos on youtube of someone using 1 of those to veg for referencelink and 2 to flower. he produced 6 plants that way.so you may be able to get by doing 1 plant under 1 300w led. The plants yield will be limited by the factor in least supply- so all the light wont help if your short on nutrients, and all the nutrients wont help if your short on light. 300w redbluewhite led is a good start for a casual hobby plant.
Any light that is used to grow herbs/tomatoes should work. I have https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509648710&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mars+hydro&amp;dpID=51clUyqI-5L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch and the only issue I have is that it is too powerfull for the distance I have it from the refugium. Tends to bleach out the chaeto if it stops tumbling.
I was actually looking at that one, but decided that this one may get the job done:
Mars 300 watt, I have three in a 8x4' tent, they work great.
MarsHydro 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iLJ0AbBVH7VYV
Mars Hydro 300, it's the standard intro LED and very cost effective. Lots of great grows posted here under those lights. Even if you upgrade to higher wattage, the little 120-130W "300W" panel will be excellent for the early stages of your plants.
You can also look into T5 fluorescent, which is what I use for veg but could be used for a small flowering setup. The best part about T5 is its extremely low heat output. You can grow the plants until they're touching the tubes practically. I would skip CFL, I feel it's a poor lighting solution that's a waste of money (up front and cost over life) in the light (heh) of high performing LED panels and inexpensive and more efficient T5 setups.
This is actually a grow light and it's cheaper with a few more watts. It also has some red spectrum.
Edit: I see you already own it...it could help as supplemental lighting or as a veg light
Would a 300W light cover a 3x3x6 area?
More specifically, this one?
I have the 300w from this brand: https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B00XC3LBI2
I have definitely added the thermometer to my shopping list, thanks for your input, its greatly appreciated!
You could have one nice big light, or a couple of smaller ones. Depends on how long you are going to grow indoors, and your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFPBBD6 This fixture
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXLSEJ8 with six of these, would result in 4800 lumens.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721TG86M here you have 5000 lumens
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2 you could do this one, but the light is terrible to live in.
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/hlg-65 And this would be your best option. 10.000 lumens.
One of these 300w Mars Hydro LEDs
I found this on amazon and saw basically the whole review section saying it’s great to grow weed with, what do you think? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6t10CbP5A8DGZ
As my first grow ever, I had 3 seedlings germinate after planting on April 5th into my AeroGarden 6. Here is a progress picture from about 3 days ago.
As you can see, my guy on the left is really taking off, but my other two have kind of stalled. Should I be worried about that?
I hear I can wait about another week until transplant. Would then be a good time to move them into 5 gallon pots? I am also laxing behind on my equipment. I’ve been scoping this tent and this light off of Amazon. Would you guys recommend? Any other recommendations for ventilation? Working a bit on a budget.
Also, I checked all 3 of them, and they have mainly just one long root as seen here. Should that be concerning?
Appreciate any info, and sorry for the noob questions. Happy growing!
There's more powerful models as well. I would suggest checking Craigslist as there are always growers getting rid of old equipment.
Get a cheap 300W Mars Hydro. You'll spend more using CFL's anyway so might as well bite off on something like this.
Yea I think OP has 2 of these lights , looks like their true wattage is at 132W each
You got an ounce from a light that's meant for a 2x2 space? That's really good isn't it? I'm currently looking into possibly trying indoor for my first time and that lamp curently goes for less than $70 on Amazon.
> What kind of lights are you using?
Using a single Mars Hydro 300W (130-140w something real output).
> Are you using a part a-b?
This is the nutrient solution I am running, with a 3/2/4 N/P/K-split.
> or it has too high of a nitrogen concentration leading to ph lock.
Would it be better to use the HESI's hydro bloom nutrients I've already bought that has a 3/4/5 N/P/K split then throughout both vegetative and flowering phase?
To light 16 square feet you should have around 800w of blurple or HID or 500w of COB or QB. I'm not sure you can achieve that with a budget of $150, though I could be wrong.
If you can increase the budget a tiny bit $185 will get you a state of the art light that will cover a 2'x2' area of your tent and you can add more later:
Or you could go with two Mars Hydro 300s, at $75 each, which would give you about 265w, enough to cover a 2.5'x2.5' area.
if you buy this light HERE if will keep all of the plants happy, even the wee weedle
I have that light and it is not enough to grow a plant under. Check out /r/spacebuckets for more bucket/small grow info on something the size of a mini fridge. This or This will grow plants in a small space, I've grown under both.
This 300W MarsHydro LED is still on sale for $89.99 with Amazon Prime, I got on and it's bright as hell, definitely check it out.
I don't have a light meter, but they have the specs listed in the product description: https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mars+hydro+300&qid=1574474853&sr=8-4
Oh, don't like Ebay? Here's amazon for a dollar more..
This is the Mars I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_8xonybVH6YN72
I havent changed my light setup at all, I just pulled the plant out into the sun for the shot real quick.
I would still go with a 300 watt UFO led. They are probably the most efficient because all of it is contained in one unit including a heat fan. It also has a limited scalability if you ever wanted to increase your grow size.
The above LED is full spectrum so you do not need to switch out the light during flower. There are other LEDs in that price range that have dual mode which means you flip a switch when you are in flower and it changes spectrum.
Imo you'd be better off getting a cob setup with cbx 3590 or vero 29 cobs this site has some good options to choose from. If you want to try out something different with good coverage and efficiency check out qb boards. If you want something affordable, yet powerful go with a 600/1000 mh/hps light. If you just want a basic cheap led light marshydro 300w(132w actual) is a good start.
How much distance should I put between my succulents and this lamp?
Edit: not for overwintering.
I have two of these
and one of the Mars
the first one - galaxy hydro - is much purpler .
All three are in a small area - about 5 feet by 3 feet
I have 3 plants in there and they are doing great.
My total wattage consumed by the fans and lights is under 500w so obviously the advertised wattage is not accurate (3x300"watt" leds producing under 500watts?)
however they are SUPER bright and the leaves are deep dark green.
I bought this one and I have read that I can get 2 ounces or so from it.
Guess I'm biting another bullet, is this the correct one?
Edit: Also, with more heat now, should I get a 6 inch in line fan ?and if so how will I rig it to my tent because the largest vent is 5 inches ?
You think 2 of the 300w Mars Hydro would do?
It's under one of these: http://amzn.com/B00XC3LBI2
I had it about 12" above, had put it a little closer, but then moved it back up after a day or so (when I started trying to save it). If it's light bleaching, would increasing the distance from the light save it or would it be too late for a seedling this small?
the 3 part set up. amazon link below. I have two 5gal bucket set up. About to replant bc i did not have goo luck with the lettuce and spinach. But the herbs i have (Cilantro and Basil) are doing great. Im going to try adding mint, thyme, rosemary, and probably sage.
General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S27yDb194YD94
So, are you in a pot? How big? Now would probably be a great time to transplant if its in a little pot and is still in veg. It really depends on how big you want to try to get it. Outdoors is different too cause at a certain point its just going to switch over to flower with the light change depending on your latitude.
If its a 3 gallon or bigger pot and you want like 1-3 ounces you probably dont NEED a transplant. and can just feed it some Calcium+Magnesium (CalMag) and some of the General Hydroponics nutrients
just give a half dose of whatever the recommended feeding is to start every other watering.
Awesome, thanks! Would the liquid stuff be just as good or is that meant for hydro systems? I’m growing in soil.
I’m looking at this :
Would it be more wise to go with the full kit?
So the system I plan to have going is similar to the one in this video: https://www.familyplotgarden.com/building-an-inexpensive-aeroponics-system.html
My basement is half finished, my room is about 18ft by 15ft, and the unfinished part, separated by a door, is about 12 ft by 30ft. Both have about 8ft ceilings. I was thinking of putting it in the unfinished room so I don't get bothered by the light or sound of the pump, but I'm not sure yet. This is my first time attempting hydroponics, so I really have no clue about all the technical details. Is there something you would recommend I grow first that would be easy to manage and not mess up? Also when it comes to lights, what is the difference between the red blue ones and the white ones? And how do I know what height to have them at and when to move them?
Thanks again for the help
Edit: General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MOeKBbX75P0WN. Here's the nutrients I got
For Nutes I was going to try General Hydroponics, idk if you've tried but some people swear by it on this sub
So if I mix grow and bloom into outdoor soil it would give enough nutes to feed the plant? Do you think if I did take this route it would be wise to monitor pH?
Hey quick question about using coco coir. From what I'm reading using coco coir is considered hydro...but I've also seen people blending coco coir with soil. When using coco coir blended with soil do you have to use nutes like these or are you okay not using those nutes at all and just whatever nutrients are in the soil? I'm reading about NPK and it's not very clear exactly how I achieve those ratios if i'm mixing my own soil and coco coir.
I this one? How do you use it? There are 3 of them, my plant is still growing
The miracle grow is fine for spraying your flowers in your yard but other than that I would steer clear of Miracle Grow for hydroponics.
Your plants will require different levels of nutrients (N-P-K) through their life cycle as well as a number of micro-nutrients. I will have to agree that you want to spend about $33 and get the 3 part Flora series from General Hydroponics. Amazon Link Here
Feeding schedule from General Hydroponics Recirculating is Here
Drain to waste is Here
Differs per bottle. Here's the combo I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Bloom-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491276631&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=floragro
Considering a good grower gets 1g/of LED real watt, you will not meet your expectations of 10-32 ounces with 600$, I am afraid. But have no fear. I am pretty good at budgets and enjoy a challenge so let's see what kind of setup we can generate.
Light - Your biggest and most important expenditure - 250$CADamazon.ca/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Function/dp/B01G8GDV32/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3G9VL9397BJLG&keywords=viparspectra&qid=1570768902&sprefix=vipars%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-5
I am an HPS grower that is actively is looking for an LED way out of the cooling I need to provide. I have read amazing things about viparspectra. This light has a real draw of 260W so you will be able to pull a half pound if you dial your environment right.
Pots - Fabric pots are the shit - 20$ CAD
I've grown in clay pots, nursery pots, dwc, rockwool cubes and I always go back to promix. And now I use Smart/Fabric pots. They are the tits of my life, ferreal. The handles help a lot.
Dehumidifier - You said you live in a bay area so i assume its humid af - 70$ CAD
Nutes - I've used these and have been successful. then again ive used 20-20-20 and been successul - 51$ CAD
PH adjusters - 30$CAD
PH Tester - You fucking need this, hanna is a+ - 140$ CAD
We are at 561$ CAD so 425 USD
Buy cheap ass dirt or go dig some up. I've used garden dirt successfully indoors but you will have to spend extra money fighting bests. Get bagged dirt.
5 gallon bucket to run your sauce - like 5$CAD - go to a hardware store
Hooks and chain - Max 10$ at a harware store
You still havent answered my question about smell. A carbon filter and inline fan combo will run you up another 200$ CAD
so like 650$ USD.
Sorry I'm Canadian.
not sure if it counts as DIY, but i've been using the General Hydroponics nutrients with no issues. It does mean that you will need to adjust the pH after you mix the nutrients. You dont have to do this with the miracle grow nutrients.
not the same person, but I'm a new grower too and have been reading up a lot on how to care for my clones I've had for about 2 weeks now.
here are some links to often-mentioned nutrient systems:
general hydroponics: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Bloom-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479708442&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=general+hydroponics
fox farms: https://www.amazon.com/FX14050-Fertilizer-Nutrient-Hydro-Formula-32-Ounce/dp/B000HY2IXQ
Thanks for your reply!
All of the plants have roots in the water, and some of them have new white growth, but not a ton. About 7 out of my 24. I'm still not seeing new green growth on any of them.
I'm using this nutrient mix, with about 5 cups of the recommended mixture dissolved into my ~30 gallon tank. I'm using PH Up and PH Down from Lowe's. I don't know what acids/bases they are, but they're specifically marketed for hydroponics. I've only had to adjust the PH down, from 7.9 to 6.1.
I actually bought some larger plants that are already blooming and fruiting yesterday, so I was planning on refreshing my water and remixing my solution and then transplanting the more mature plants today or tomorrow, but if the crowns can be salvaged I'd like to save them too.
Sorry forgot to add those.
Lights: Full Spectrum
Nutes: General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set
Grow Tent: Grow Tent 96x96x80
Also using Mother Earth Coco+Perlite
I use Perlite in two gallon buckets, and these nutrients: General Hydropnics, CalMag both ordered from Amazon.
SImple setup, check out my post here: My setup.. I have most of the details of the setup in the thread.
Water with nutrients is pumped into the buckets 4 times a day, and it all drains right back to reservoir.
I have mine set up outisde, but i've had to put a tarp over the reservoir as it's been raining a fair bit lately.
Thanks for the information! That is really helpful.
I'm currently using the GH Advanced Nutrient System - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was using the GH Go Box nutes, but I switched to the ANS recently. I still have the stuff on-hand, tho. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also ordered some GH Floralicious for this grow, but I have not used it yet.
Yes! I was in the same situation, trying to come up with a small but effective system in college, and in a small apartment.
My design was based halfway off of what I'd seen from Jeb Gardener on YouTube, and the other half just what I could throw together with what I had lying around. Jeb is a little... well... interesting, but very informative.
Basically, what I did was get a 10-gallon flat stacker tote from Walmart, drill holes in it, put net pots in, clay pebbles, and rock wool cubes, and now I have a garden! It's really tough to describe all of the little intricacies with it, but this community has helped me out tremendously. By no means is my system perfect, and in fact, it's super Jerry Rigged and super jank, but it works! This whole process has been a great learning experience. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in this community, or if you want to hear more about my system, feel free to DM me! Here are some photos!
Here are the various things I bought off Amazon to get me started!
pH down (the better kind)
pH meter (not available on Amazon anymore)
rockwool cubes (1.5")
General Hydroponics nutrients
pH up & down (the down didn't last very long, but the up seems to work fine. You probably won't need up near as often as down.)
air stones (these seem to do a fine job. Not the best certainly, but they work.)
clay pebbles (not sure what quality these are, but they do their job! Be sure to rinse very thoroughly.)
net pots (these work fine. Nothing special.)
EDIT: Added links to Amazon
Most use the foxfarm or general hydroponics lines.
So if it is a Nitrogen deficiency, how would I go about solving that in soil? Is there a specific product I need to add? I have this on hand but tbh I'm not entirely sure how to use it. Or something else I should be doing to correct it?
I just bought VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W which supposedly compares to a 600 watt HPS/MH
Thanks for your feedback, and these are questions I should consider as I’m starting my grow.
I guess as I begin, I was hoping to find an ideal route that would allow me to adapt as I go. I have a decent amount of space for growing (an entire 10x10 room) and am willing to budget fairly for what’s needed. I just don’t want to overextend, as I will just grow for personal use (albeit, I do smoke quite a bit). I want to keep the plants “clean” and as healthy as possible, and hope to test out a few different strains. For lights - I’m willing to go as suggested, but initially considered LED (maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0a0aAbD9B8DYH).
I’d love to connect and chat if you have more insight for a beginner grower. Thanks for your initial feedback!
you would want something pulling about 300 watts
this one (if you want a blurple)(make sure you select the 600w version) is rated to pull 260w so it wouldnt be a bad decision and is rated for a 90x90
some people recommend to split your watts into two lights so you can manage them for better light coverage to the lower parts of your plants, so splitting this into two 300w from the same brand also wouldnt be a bad idea. but the single light is definitely okay for beginning
Performs great I couldn't be happier with it. They'd been running pretty much constantly for 4 months and not any problems. VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ez90xbWN6GA78
I'm planning on getting another one or there 1200w model eventually.
Yeah I would do that but the electric and power draw I am not able to meet. I like the led because it uses so little power. I wouldn't want to get more than like an ounce a month either way. VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower, Has Daisy Chain Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K4GhDb8SQX3K6
I was looking at that light do you think thatd be good?
LED Grow Light, 300W Grow Light Full Spectrum for Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WTCR8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GnOYAbX0FF50Z
What I’d like to get
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hHOYAbGZ94Y7R
I was thinking of buying this VIPARSPECTRA LED light to use for the whole process. should I buy 2 for my 4x4 tent?
I went with these VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_u4T3eWMbK8AEr
Thanks! I am using 2 different LED lights in my tent (Apollo 4'x4'). I started out with just this light for the first 3 weeks because I was short on cash and thought I'd try my luck at skimping on coverage with a cheap, Chinese light from Amazon. By week 3 or so, I had serious doubt about its ability to cover 4'x4' in flower. I bought this light to run in addition.
a good starter pack of nutrients - a small sized grow tent that can fit 4 plants - a fan ventillation system that will handle the smell when you get to flowering - airpots if you want to grow from soil - or DWC hydro buckets if you want to go hydro note that these are pretty easy to DIY, buckets are $5 ea and pumps run $20-50. LED lights to grow with for $160 or you can skip up to the good stuff and go with Quantum Boards which are far superior - not on amazon You can do a lot of your own work on these boards to make them not as expensive.
After your get some seeds, either from bag seed or from an online seller, its really just a matter of paying attention to what the plants are doing and keeping a good schedule with your nutrients or watering. There is a ton of information online, both on reddit and elsewhere that can guide you with anything.
currently my dad has a umm lets just call it a grow set up in our basement with some tomatoes and other plants and uses these lights https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=sxr_rr_xsim1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2286650982&amp;pd_rd_wg=PlYlM&amp;pf_rd_r=QK2GEMK706A18J4JAS4Q&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B019ETLC7M&amp;pd_rd_w=HoIIB&amp;pf_rd_i=T5HO+light&amp;pd_rd_r=X1ZQRN95JTK5Q4NYF720&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480432928&amp;sr=1 its a full spectrum grow light and i was thinking of just putting my plants down there for the winter, however there is not a ton of temperature variation from day to night down there, as it is a very controlled environment. I was thinking of getting something like that and just putting them in an old fishtank in their pots as a makeshift terrarium and then just removing them from the windowsill and just using the grow light, as there are massive temperature fluctuations and the window is pretty drafty. Any experience with the 'full spectrum' lights?
What heat output??? they run very, very cool. When I went from HPS to led, I went from active cooling to passive cooling. Seriously, they're the best.
4x4 will be a little more pricey, but not by much.
Something like this, or use 2 units and spread them out (that's what I'd do)
I have a 36x36x72 grow tent, and this is the light I use.
It has a setting for veg/flower, but I just keep them both on to maximize the amount of light they're getting.
I use these 600w for my 4x4 tents, you could also put smaller light strips on the side if your worried about light coverage but this good beginner grow light in my opinion
Would something like this suffice? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019ETLC7M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502469006&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=600+w+led+grow+light&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51b%2B74WbawL&amp;ref=plSrch
Where it says consuming 276w, or am I not reading it right again! Sorry for all the questions, just don't want to waste and mess up my first attempt!