Best pocket & bi-fold door hardware according to redditors
We found 40 Reddit comments discussing the best pocket & bi-fold door hardware. We ranked the 25 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 40 Reddit comments discussing the best pocket & bi-fold door hardware. We ranked the 25 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Assuming a solid core door. If a hollow core door, first replace with a good metal exterior solid core door and then see below.
Maybe you could make some pocket door hardware work. Or abandon the door knob and use magnets. Latches for boats?
One of these may work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Closet-Savers-Bi-Fold-Pivot-Repair/dp/B01GU90892
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7192-Bi-Fold-Bracket/dp/B00E3NDVUQ
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7195-Bi-Fold-Bracket/dp/B000RGJRGK
yes, the typical pocket door kit is just the rollers and half-studs and you're expected to use a standard door slab.
I've used THIS kit myself. You have to open up the wall and cut out the old studs to make room to use the metal half thick studs, but it was actually pretty easy and very high quality rollers.
Your biggest problem is going to be the existing door knob hole. That's a big hole in the face you'll have to do something with. If you're painting, no big deal. but if you're staining and showing the grain that's a different problem
I've installed these in pocket doors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSI6I8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll may need to modify the door to install the lock, and you'll need to install the latch basket into the jamb side of the wall which involves some more cutting. The 'security' isn't all that great, but it does prevent someone from accidentally walking in. The 'locks' (the parts that actually protrude into the latch basket to prevent the door from opening) are tiny, so they don't put up much of a fight if forced...
Overall I think the product is just ok, but it more or less does the job it advertises.
Great! We have them listed on Amazon or our website depending on which shopping method you prefer. There are discounts on both sites for 10% off 2, 15% off 3 and 20% off 4 (with free priority shipping) so you can install one on all entry doors in the house.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KP0YGU?ref=myi_title_dp
https://tuff-strike.myshopify.com/products/two-post-strike-plate-satin-nickel
I need these because ive had a few too many creepers and people steal things off my yard.
or this which is cheaper to stop the drafts under my doors.
im too out of it to ummm...I don't know, fly casual
This one looks pretty darn close
That's the 1020. The one you have linked on amazon is the 1125 (1" ball bearing wheels)
You want either the 1020 (just nylon) or 1025 (ball bearing) it seems. (.75")
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Hardware-111-Series-Hanger/dp/B00CU8IQ4M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482994134&sr=1-1&keywords=johnson+hardware+1020
Thank you. For the pocket door I used this set of hardware from Amazon - 100PD Commercial Grade Pocket / Sliding Door Hardware (48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMTTV8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hpZeAb6AGYY09
It was relatively easy to install and adjust once the door is hung. I would pay more attention to recessing the track in the door header, I don't like that I can see the wheels from inside the bathroom.
The door I ordered from the Depot.
Feather River Doors 24 in. x 80 in. Privacy Smooth 1 Lite Primed MDF Interior Door Slab
https://homedepot.app.link/exOa9A9FeI
SKU# 203191207
I love pocket doors for a space saver.
As far as plaster over Redgard that I am not sure about, but, some quick Googling it doesn't appear so. But that was about 15 seconds of 'research'. I know there are certain types of mortar pre mixes that you're not supposed to use over Redgard.
A pair of metal brackets to hold a 2x4 wood plank across your door, when you're home. $13.
A strike plate for your door, to secure your doors when you're not home. $80.
Some pets to guard your house either way. Priceless.
UTG MP5 Bi-directional Picatinny Mount, Low Profile https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003TWVEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TquVCb0Y5GNFM
Fair warning, adding acoustic foam won't help much with blocking sound. Its main purpose is to reduce reverb within a room. What you'd really need is to replace that thin glass door with a solid one like wood, steel, or fiberglass, however these are very far out of your price range. I suppose any amount of insulation would help in your case. You'll just have to experiment on your own. I found foam board insulation can be pretty cheap.
For soundproofing around your door, at the bottom get a door sweep, on the door frame install foam tape. Any gaps of air allow sound to easily pass through, you want to eliminate that. Measure the size of the gap before you buy the wrong size.
Do you think this Dead Bolter Strike Plate Reenforcer is equal to the one in the article? I've had trouble finding ones that are exactly like the ones in the article ( this one - https://www.amazon.com/Reinforcement-Secure-Deadbolt-Reinforcer-Security/dp/B07K38GCDJ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=32PSXVAY9IUQD&keywords=tuff+strike+door+reinforcement&qid=1571607595&sprefix=tuff+strike+%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-1 )
It's called a pocket door and most pocket door locks are privacy locks meaning you can lock and unlock from one side, but the other side merely needs a screwdriver to unlock. https://www.amazon.com/Privacy-Sliding-Door-Lock-Pull/dp/B07DHDRSFQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
this one works just fine
https://www.amazon.com/Dynasty-Hardware-Privacy-Pocket-Nickel/dp/B075H33J3H/ref=pd_sbs_60_6/132-8390442-2557449?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075H33J3H&pd_rd_r=c65ed707-1f7f-49d9-a8b3-4cbf2d4565c5&pd_rd_w=MNuQM&pd_rd_wg=7HdB1&pf_rd_p=d66372fe-68a6-48a3-90ec-41d7f64212be&pf_rd_r=JE8JDB9X81CEYYEFF13Y&psc=1&refRID=JE8JDB9X81CEYYEFF13Y
I just did this exact project. I already had the router so it made it a little easier but I’ve done the chisel method before too. The router gives a bit cleaner look if you have rounded hinges.
Since you have to match up the existing latch to one have to cut, this tool makes it a TON easier.
Ryobi A99DLK3 3-Step Wood Door Lock Installation Kit with Auto-Strike Locator for Deadbolts and Locksets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OGSYRMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6EvWAb2HTGX19
That tool includes the hole saw and spade bit but the important part is how it locates where the existing latch is.
Another tip, pull the old door down, lay new door on top and align the tops of the doors, use a pencil transfer the hinge locations and door height (you’ll want to trim the bottom).
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cowdroy-1620mm-clear-anodised-robemaker-wardrobe-door-track-set_p3980003
It's pretty common in some regions of the world for interior sliding doors to ride on wheels on a floor track, with just a guide at the top. Have any antipodean friends who could ship stuff to you?
In North America I've only seen similar hardware à la carte rather than in "kits", so you would need to know how to mortice the rollers into the door bottom etc.:
https://www.hangingdoorhardware.com/pocketdoors/sliding_door_bottom_roller/bottom_roller.htm
https://www.wwhardware.com/media/installation/KV-sliding-door-instructions.pdf
With a door "blank" acquired locally, you could surface-mount two rollers ($30) to the face of the door at the bottom, use the mating $40 915A track screwed down to the floor, and have as little as one wall mounted guide to catch the top of the door above the edge of the opening.
Figured it out: Barton Kramer #2086- Cox Bi-Fold Door Hanger
Mfr link: http://bartonkramer.com/doors/2086-cox-bi-fold-door-hanger/
Home Depot link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-1-3-4-in-x-5-8-in-Folding-Shutter-Door-Roller-Nylon-Roller-Assembly-N-6604/202636670
Amazon Link: https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-6604-Folding-Shutter/dp/B00E3N9TE8?tag=519-20
I'm not exactly sure on what type of estimates you'll see. I feel like $1k-2k seems about right for everything. But I recommend to get a few, don't feel like you're wasting anyone's time. You have to look out for yourself, and the contractors are trying to win your business. If you decide it's not going to work out for any reason don't feel obligated to hire anyone.
But as far as installation goes, I recommend doing a little research so that you know what it entails. Giving you more negotiation power with your contractors and also making sure they don't underbid the job.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Prod-153068PF-Pocket-Frame/dp/B0002BEPEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414581820&sr=8-1&keywords=johnson+hardware+pocket+door You can find this at any hardware store. The installer will also need to buy wood for framing, jambs, trim, drywall, mud and tape.
You can re-use your current doors if you like them, you just need to get new knob hardware, and may need to fill in where the hinges were.
To measure if you have enough room for the pocket door you need to measure the length of the door. Multiply by 2. Then add 1 inch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy1vuz1_hgo This video will give you more info on installation.
Why not use a sliding door rail with a lock?
I think I was misreading your original intent-- I thought you were trying to add like a back wall and be able to move the front row back and forth IN FRONT of the new 'back' section.
Even so you can modify a pocket door setup for something like this if the french cleat thing doesn't work out :P
http://amzn.com/B000BD6B7W
There is a type privacy lock called a jamb bolt that are toggle like, most commonly used for pocket doors. Just google “jamb bolt” or click this link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041L0D0Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518500456&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=deltana+jamb+bolt&psc=1
Here is the mobile version of your link
>I've installed a shitload of doors
>I really should let my landlord know about that
Certainly someone with a shitload of experience could probably install a door sweep in about 60 seconds. Why even bother your landlord with that?