Best polishing & waxing kits according to redditors
We found 197 Reddit comments discussing the best polishing & waxing kits. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 197 Reddit comments discussing the best polishing & waxing kits. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looked dirty and scratched to begin with, and now it just looks scratched and hazy.
What products did you use?
I use this
You could try something like this. I've used this a number of times on various things and while it does require some elbow grease, I've successfully satisfied my inner anal tendencies.
Edit: I know nothing of regulations, so not sure if this will help. Thought maybe you were concerned about how it looked.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-PowerBall-4Lights-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00341MIAW
Nice, looks like i can order some for about 20 bucks too.
I'll have to give it a whirl, thanks dude.
This is what I've been using for a few years. I've used it safely on vintage and modern pens, of course never using it on things like hard rubber pens. Only need to use a very small amount of product, and you can probably get by with the least aggressive polish (#2) for these scratches. Bonus points for trying it out on an old beat-up pen or other plastic object before using on your good pen.
Here's something to remove the scratches from that clear piece. Also supposedly works for soft top windows.
here
For those interested in prices per quantity, I did some hunting for you.
AutoGlym Hi Def $49.96/150g
Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance $31.99/12oz
Nattys White & Blue both $21.95 /8oz.
RaceGlaze 55 $130.00/11oz
Swissvax Divine $3490/400ml, Mystery $799.00/200ml, BoS and Concourso $799.00/200ml
Victoria Concours $38.00/200g
Zymol Vintage $2290.00/?? and Glasur $101.00/11.2oz
Not at all.
I have two lights mounted this way. The one that's a little further forward is getting it's finish blasted off, and the one that's a little further back has a small piece of the front lens sanded down. They both work perfectly well and the lenses are easy to clean with some plastic polish.
Edit:
Here's the finish wear on my 7.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/lft2z9A.jpg
Here's the lens wear on my 11.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/04HNaZm.jpg. I've rotated it to even it out a bit.
$45? Holy shit. This stuff works amazingly, and leaves a protective coating afterward; which you can renew by using the paste and cloth once a month without the buffing ball.
I Used it on my '07 Subaru with no issues. I ended up having to use it on both headlights because the non-foggy one looked worse than the foggy one after the buffing was completed. (They fogged at different rates because the one was replaced after a deer decided the headlights were too bright and I only needed the one).
Edit: you can get that at most AutoZone, Advance Auto, and Walmart stores
Instead of sanding first off, I would recommend you try something like Novus Plastic Polish. I ended up picking it up after having issues clearing up my headlights after sanding. I've used it to remove oxidation on another friend's TC with really good results.
Before
After
WTB Spring
I don't have any experience with the machine you list. But if it were up to me, I'd get the Griot's. They're a known entity, have a great warranty, and they're on sale on Amazon.ca. The polisher alone is $180, but the kit is only $220 and comes with two pads, detailer, compound, wax, and a clay bar. The only issue is that the Griot's comes with a 6" backing pad and it's generally recommended to get a 5" backing plate and pads.
anything under $60 is basically a step up from spray wax. Save a little and get CarPro Cquartz, with a proper application and maintenance it will last a long time.
FWIW, I restored the headlights on my buddy's Passat a while back with the Mother's Headlight Restoration Kit, since it said it had a money-back satisfaction guarantee, and I was shocked at how good the results were. The headlights look brand new and months later, they still do.
Unrestored headlight
Restored headlight
The kit comes with sanding pads in 4 grits, running from like 200 to 400 to 600 to 1200 and then they give you the buffing ball and plastic polish.
Mask of the trim so you don't polish off the gold (or whatever) plating, and use Novus Plastic Polish
Replied to a similar post recently:
> I did this to a windshield once. Researching fix options was how I learned this technique. Use Micro-mesh sanding pads in this order:
> That should get it transparent, and looking close to glass. Sometimes I then polish with Novus if needed.
I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.
2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash
My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.
Had a pretty bad scratch on one of my Samsung Odyssey lenses, and went through a few suggested solutions. Ended up using this to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.
Use a microfiber cloth (not the ones that come with the kit), and start with the #2 polish, then go to #1. Read the directions too :)
A plastic polish called Novus (Novis?) #2 and/or #3 is supposed to work well on acrylic pens. It's what Franklin Christoph recommends on their pens fwiw.
Edit: Here it is
There are a few brands of plastic polish on the market. Another thing that people recommend is a vigorous rubbing with toothpaste.
http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Scratches-From-Plastic-Lens-Glasses
I like McKee's.
I use Turtle Wax Jet Black Endura Shine. Probably the only good product they make.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOBSXQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_va.mybZABF75G
You want this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
The people over at /r/autodetailing will be the first to tell you not to use any Armor All products. Overall just very low quality products and damage, rather than preserve your vehicle. They dry out the dash and cause cracking.
Meguiars makes great automotive detailing products. Their Supreme Shine Protectant is significantly better than Armor All's and will not damage your dash. Spray it onto a Microfiber towel or cloth and apply to your dash. If you are looking for something less glossy and greasy, their Natural Shine Protectant is great too.
Avoid buying the wipe type products as they just aren't worth the money.
If you want to thoroughly clean your interior like a professional, try products like 303 Aerospace protectant and Einszett cockpit premium. These are products used by pros and many detailing enthusiasts at /r/autodetailing and in the detailing world.
Wiping with just a damp cloth will not do, as the sun will eventually crack up your dash; its only a matter of time. The protectant will preserve your dash for as long as possible and it wicks up dust while leaving a glossy, or matte finish.
An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.
For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.
I bought it off amazon. it's around $50 https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496839515&sr=8-2&keywords=cquartz
there's three types (maybe more)
Cquartz
Cquartz UK (for lower temperature applications)
Cquarts Finest (has to be done by a certified shop not for the home gamer)
either way it's really not for your home gamer if you ask me. it's essentially a clear coat that you're adding over top of your paint. it cures hard and beads water relatively well. it has a ~2 year life to where the surface essentially stays as protected as wax but you don't have to wax.
it's longevity really depends on how you wash your car and the damage it takes on. I'm expecting to get about 3 years out of this maybe 4 since I garage it and it's not my daily.
you have to have your paint as flat as you can (paint correction) before you apply it because it does not fill or hide scratches, they need to be removed first. what it will do is lock them in. if you apply it too thick and don't buff it out by hand before it cures they only way to remove it is to polish it back out and reapply.
the application went easy enough for me because I was anal about the process. your car has to be completely decontaminated before you apply it (no oils, no wax, no nothing) to do that I wiped it down with car pro eraser and then a wipe down with IPA (alcohol)
if you haven't done a paint correction and haven't done much detailing and what not I wouldn't even look at it unless you're gonna get a detail shop to do it for you. What I would recommend is a great wax that is cheap and lasts a long time. collonite 845. it's awesome shit, you can get a bottle for under $20 and it'll last years. the wax when applied will protect your car for roughly 6 months. it's great shit, just wash/clay and wax with collonite. It's easy to apply, easy to buff off and beads water like a mofo, it also will fill in minor scratches) it's what I always used before I went for a 2 week long paint correction and decided to lock it in a bit better with cquartz
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
brosader's idea isn't a bad one either. Admit you have sinned and tarnished their otherwise beautiful product. Beg for forgiveness. You may just end up with a sacrificial pane to practice lasercutting on.
A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.
To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU to clean up after the last coat.
Glad to answer any other questions
You might try Novus on the scratches, this stuff rocks:
NOVUS 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9jeUAbGMRQAFR
Link to make a replacement 67.5V "B" battery from 9V batteries.
I have a hi-def image of the label of an Eveready #455 (45V) B battery if you want it. Actual size, so you can cut the cardboard holder a *bit* smaller, then wrap a print of the image onto the cardboard. Use Photoshop or another paint program to change the numbers.
Plastic polish would remove the oxidation from the case. Get the Novus kit.
My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.
Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:
I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.
Here is a really detailed step-by-step guide from DetailedImage. Also, read as much of the "Ask-a-pro" blog posts as you can. Todd Cooperider is really helpful and gives very thorough explanations. Do yourself a favor and buy a Dual Action polisher (DA) it will save you multiple hours. They make product recommendations in the guide as well.
I looked around and found some plastic / acrylic cleaner that's suppose to work well with case windows.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCYRZU
I ordered some and should have it Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out!
I have a similar issue (which is how I ended up here). I found this product on Amazon that you might be interested in trying out. Read the reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G2MRLL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2KZ6XKRJD4PLN&psc=1
I know some people use the cone from wheel polishing kits to get into awkward spaces like these.
If you don't go the tempered glass route try buying Novus. It's a great plastic polishing compound. It should be able to get rid of the scratches.
Normally I would stabilize stuff with a vacuum chamber (details on my setup here)
With these I didn't bother since I needed them right away. I grabbed some really horrible scraps of the spalted maple and shaped/sanded. Bits were trying to fall off so I grabbed Solarez and did a few coats, curing with my little UV gel manicure light for three minutes between coats. Once that was done I sanded out the lumpy spots and took it to 600 grit. I then polished it with Novus #2 polish...boom, done.
Even with the minimal amount of effort I put into the handles, they turned out amazing. In the future I could spend a little more time and have a perfect finish in less than a day. The resin is what they coat pool sticks and surfboards with so the handles feel like that...not the same as a linseed finish but not totally plastic feeling, either.
Fun fact : You can use plastic polish and a soft cloth or sock to get better results than a buffing machine can offer in most instances. Those machines sometimes make read issues worse. I recommend Novus #2.
Four or so drops on a disc rubbed in with tight circular wipes works wonders.
Sorry here ya go LINK
I wouldn't expect a miracle, but I wonder if Novus Plastic Polish is worth a try? Or—in all serousness here—try polishing it with toothpaste.
I did high end picture framing for many years and this is the best way to polish acrylic: Novus
You can use this to get the plexi top back to it's brand new condition.
If it's just paint transfer, you should be able to clean it off then polish the surface. If there's any scratching into the clear coat, I've heard good things about this 3M kit: https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
Not all is lost
The proper way is to re gel coat it. Don't paint it. It looks pretty good, I would deal with the color it matches the era of the boat! Clean up the hull with some white vinegar and water or Starbrite hull cleaner to get rid of the brown, buff it with a boat oxidation remover, polish it then wax it and I bet you will be more then amazed with the results! For the money I like the results of this kit from Meguiar's... http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT
It looks more like sweat than scratches from the pic. Have you tried a small dab on water on the microfibre cloth?
I had the same on mine after a mate who sweats like Niagara Falls used mine. I noticed similar "marks" on the lenses the next day. A dab of water got them off.
I've heard of people using this for scratches with success but I personally have never needed it.
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/
Finally I use these to protect the lenses. They don't impact the image in any noticeable manner if applied correctly. The Rift lenses are curved so these are the only ones I have seen that actually fit. The 48mm are the ones to get that fit
https://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-65in/dp/B00SJ22CY8
There's several good kits just gotta figure out how much you have to spend. I got a 30mL bottle and it wasn't quite enough to do my entire car. 50mL would be perfect for a WRX in my opninion. I'm not a pro at all so that's just my advice.
https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-7&keywords=ceramic+coating
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-CQuartz-UK-Kit-Reload/dp/B00W8APMQM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-6&keywords=ceramic+coating
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC227-Protective-Coating/dp/B01ALMQD3O/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=ceramic+coating&psc=1
I recommend using a plastic polish. You can do it by hand but if you have a drill, or even better a random orbital buffer it goes pretty quickly.
Out of all the products I've tried, I have the best results with a multi-step system. This one works really well.
You can get some of the haze out, and some of the lighter swirls and scratches, but you'll never put that brand new and poppin' look back into something that's been well used. Plastic is just not made to last like that.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
I've used this on PTZ domes that have gotten scratched up. It worked very well. It was a fuckload of work.
if it's not very deep you can probably fix it with
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491574042&sr=8-6&keywords=lens+scratch+remover
I used this on mine for very fine scratches
Sure, I use this set. I start with #1, the blue bottle, and give the plastic a general cleaning, just to make sure there aren't any particles on the plastic that are going to gouge. After that, I use #2 (the red bottle) and a lint free cloth and just rub the hell out of the plastic. You should always try to polish at 90 degree angles so you don't end up with streaks. By that I mean polish in one direction, then polish 90 degrees different from that direction. Once I'm satisfied with that, I give it another polishing with #1.
Everyone has their own opinions on paint detailing. I don't mind spending a little time up front if the results are long-lasting. My approach has worked well on multiple cars in our family stable, both single stage (93 Mariner Blue Miata) and clear coat (95 Merlot Mica Miata) among others. I arrived at this list through research on /r/autodetailing and elsewhere in conjunction with my own trial and error.
I use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight. It is very effective and safer, in that it makes it more difficult for a non-professional to take off too much paint. Watch for sales or use a coupon and the cost isn't bad. Their polishing pads do not last so don't buy them. Plus the disc cuts into the foam--bad design. I bought a 5" disc instead and a set of pads separately. I read that 5" was better than 6" and so far, so good. Get a bunch of microfiber cloths also.
+1 for clay bar before you begin with polishing. Get a kit with detail spray and do that first. You'll be surprised how much stuff is actually on your paint that you can't see. Leaving that there can put grit into your polish work.
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to start, using stiffer pad. Follow their directions.
Meguiar's Ultimate Polish next using a medium pad. This step might seem unnecessary but you'll see a difference before/after. This one wipes off before drying--see instructions. When done you should have a mirror-like finish.
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the last step. I LOVE this stuff. A little goes a long way. It comes off so easily, unlike some other sealants (like Klasse--OMG, it's a workout) yet it lasts. You can put it on with the DA polisher, softest pad, or by hand.
Note that I use the DA only for putting stuff ON, never for removing. This video is a bit annoying but shows a good method for removing/buffing.
Some people like to do an additional stage with wax. I haven't done that but maybe I'll try it someday. Seems like the benefit would be minimal compared to the work required.
Finally, a good car wash that won't strip your product. Never use dish detergent. If you do that, you shouldn't have to use the first compound again. Polish and sealant next year or end of season should keep you looking good.
Very last thing: take and post a photo of your work!
Plastic polish works really well. I've been using this one by Novus
This should do the trick
This, and a powerbuffer:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT
in the US, I bought mine straight off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481291418&sr=8-1&keywords=cquartz
You could try something like Novus Plastic Polish (change the .com to .de , .co.uk , or whichever you prefer using in Sweden). Honestly not sure if it will remove those fine scratches though or if even using it with a microfiber cloth would make it worse. May be worth a shot though if you don't want to pay to have a replacement shipped.
If it doesn't work/gets worse, I'd recommend mnpctech's replacement window. High quality acrylic that won't scratch nearly as easily. They do international orders via email and paypal so I'm not sure how much it would end up being for you...
a couple weeks back, i went to a drive in theatre and scratched the shit out of my car by turning into a pole. i was really pissed and figured the damage would easily cost 200+. it actually looked very similar to the scratch on your car.
i looked around the internet and found the 3m scratch removal system which i bought at walmart. i attached it to a drill, followed the instructions and basically the scratches were non-existant (except for one really deep one). i would totally recommend you trying it (it'll save you some money and an eye-sore)
I have this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-PowerBall-4Lights-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00341MIAW
and it works great. It leaves the headlights crystal clear and makes them look like new. The kit comes with everything you need to do all your lights except the drill. I also suggest getting some Painter's tape so you could tape the body parts that surround the headlight so you don't scratch the paint because you're going to have to get the foam pad to the edge of the light.
One last thing. This part is a pain in the ass but you're going to have to wipe some sealant on the lights like every 3 months to protect them from UV damage and turning yellow again.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17110-Headlight-Protectant-oz/dp/B006FUT15Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449369404&sr=8-2&keywords=headlight+sealant
the repairs you describe are not necessarily a money pit. fixing the scratches is purely cosmetic, and you could maybe do it yourself with a $50 kit from AutoZone to save money. https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
sounds like you have car fever and want an upgrade.
The only one I can vouch for is the Novus plastic polishing compound. It's what they use on stormtrooper armor when it gets worn due to use. There is probably more out there but I haven't researched.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=plastic+polish&qid=1574106934&sprefix=plastic+poli&sr=8-3
Use the finest polish you can.
As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.
Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.
As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)
Here, NZXT is not going to help you, they are going to be too busy trying to damage control their HUE+'s frying peoples' PCs.
Polish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/
Do not use ZEP, to the best of my knowledge it is NOT UV rated. It's floor wax, not RV wax.
Go to harbor freight and buy a buffer
Get this pad to start with
And this one
Start with 3M Marine Cleaner and wax, Ace Hardware has the best price on it. Apply it with the buffer and the blue pad.
If that's not cutting the oxidization. Switch to the black pad, if you still aren't making progress, get some 3M 05954 and use the black pad.
Go easy it will cut the gel coat off.
Once you have been over it with the 05954, go back over it with the blue pad and the blue pad.
Then wax it with Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax or NuFinish
I did my 38 foot 5Ver 2 years ago finished with the Meguiar's and it still beads the water up. I'll redo it this year
You might try something like this
Awesome! Thanks for the research. I too like to research, so inspired by and based on your research, I calculated the price per gram/ounce for each of these:
$0.33/g $9.44/oz AutoGlym Hi Def $49.96 for 150g / 5.29oz
$0.32/g $9.23/oz AutoGyym HDWAXUS High Definition Wax $48.92 for 150g / 5.3oz
$0.09/g $2.67/oz Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance $31.99 for 340.19g / 12oz
$0.07/g $2.74/oz Nattys White & Blue both $21.95 for 226.80g / 8oz
$0.41/g $11.82/oz RaceGlaze 55 $130.00 for 311.85g / 11oz
$8.73/milliliter Swissvax Divine $3490/400ml
$4.00/milliliter Mystery $799.00/200ml
$4.00/milliliter BoS and Concourso $799.00/200ml
$0.46/g $12.97/oz Victoria Concours $38.90 for 85g / 3oz
$3.67/g $104.09/oz Zymol Vintage $2290.00 for 623.69g / 22oz "with unlimited refills for life"
$0.45/g $12.63/oz Glasur $101.00 for 226.8g / 8oz)
The Swissvax ones list the volume, not weight.
This list is for the price per gram/ounce of each wax. Price per weight is not necessarily accurate to compare waxes because some might be lighter or heavier than others and while having the same coverage and protection. Some include instructions stating to apply it as thin as possible and some state to apply two to three layers for deeper gloss.
An accurate price comparison would be the price per area covered and protected per layer and/or per depth of gloss and/or per amount of protection (perhaps quantifiable by the duration it lasts). All of these seem to be something that would take significant time, expertise, and possibly equipment to determine. I looked at the descriptions only briefly and did not see manufacturer estimates for how much area the waxes would cover at all, let alone how much area it would cover at the recommended thickness to last a specified amount of time. It would be nice if we had an industry standard for this.
Reference:
1g = 0.0353oz
1oz = 28.3495g
This stuff worked on my car
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G2MRLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Had the same thing happen on Vive lense, im not sure if its different than index.
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it worked great. I only used the number 2 soultion and then the number 1.
I got this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The car is a 2015 Subaru Forester with Pearl White paint. I got quoted $250 to fix this, but I am wondering if it's just easier to do it myself. I am looking at a 3M Scratch Removal System on Amazon and wondering if I could get away with just this? Or would I need to re-paint it also since it looks deeper than surface level at some parts.
Not sure if I should just suck up the $250 and do that or try to do it myself
Depending on how deep the scratches are, you could probably use some Meguires' plastic polish to clean it up.
I've also heard good things about this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCYRZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502047687&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=meguires+plastic+polish But have never used it, personally.
I started out 3 years ago with the Griot's kit: http://amzn.to/1m2vHbm . It was an okay start as a weekend warrior. After a few polishing sessions you'll eventually get the hang of it and know which products to use.
I personally use Novus shine products:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU/
You use Novus #1?
Don't use window cleaners as the chemicals inside (like ammonia) can be abrasive and cause hairline cracks in acrylic. Window cleaner is designed for glass and not plastic, which is why you shouldn't use it on your TV and monitors either.
Use something like Brillianize or Novus, which is a dedicated plastic polish/cleaner and has silicone in it to prevent scratching from abrasive materials. For more info, check out this YouTube video.
As a last ditch effort, you could try using a small amount of petroleum jelly like Vaseline to fill in hairline scratches.
Cquartz by CarPro It looks pretty good, especially right when I wash it, but dust really really dulls it quickly and it still doesn't compare to yours here! My 3 is blue.
I recently saw a 3M scratch removal system that was recommended on another post. I'm going to try this on my black Toyota 4runner. They are available on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
The reviews seem overall positive.
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
that might work, they have smaller quantities on ebay for cheaper, i have been meaning to try it but haven't had a chance yet
Get this. It will do the trick.
Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lWKyDb5ES6TGP
Thanks!
I was always worried since it appears to be paint/clearcoat there wasn't much I could do.
I'm looking at a kit, something like this, and wondered if that's adequate?
And as far as applying it, I just use the pad itself? For that kit I would imagine I would use the orange pad for the 105, the grey for the 205?
You don't need a paint shop for that. The paint is fine, it's just the clear coat that is scratched.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1398438469&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+auto+body+repair
I used this kit. The lights on my 04 TSX looked much worse than yours before I started.
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-PowerBall-4Lights-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00341MIAW
I've starting using Novus, which seems to be fairly popular with other coin collectors. It comes in a pack of 3, with one bottle for fingerprints and dirt, one for light scratches, and one for heavy scratches. Very happy with it so far.
[Novus Plastic Polishing kit](http://www.NOVUS.com/ 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vCZ1xbNTE2MC6)
At $17 it's almost as much as the pen, but you could polish your headlights or other plastic surfaces to justify the cost
Your results might be similar without wet sanding but I couldn't tell you for certain.
You might try Novus products:
Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t02oDb99ENTW8
But as always I'd try a small spot somewhere you won't be able to see it first in case you don't like the results (and maybe not go straight to 3 right away).
Novus plastic polish is the shit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/
Try Novus 7100 plastic polish kit.
The wife's C300 has piano black interior trim which got crazy stains from air fresheners and other crap I tried to clean with. Using a micro buffer is suggested. The forum I found the Novus on had people who had the same problem you are having and it cleared it up well.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536029109&sr=8-1&keywords=novus+plastic+polish&dpID=51My7fn8qlL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I use this kit
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499795631&sr=8-1&keywords=novus+plastic+polish
I am considering ordering this polishing kit. I'm not sure if you would be interested, but some reviews hav said it can work on polycarbonate.
> I also learned how to lacquer the pens, I use a spray lacquer and what I like to call my spray box, I use this so the spay doesn’t go everywhere. Before I did this I sanded them starting with 120 grit paper and going up to 1000 grit using the sand paper, after that I used some sponge backed pads which started at 1500 grit and went up to 12000 grit. I am never sure how long I should be sanding them though.
See if you can get the Novus plastic polish https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG is the US amazon link. With what you describe on sanding process, you can then move to the Novus and have very good looking pens without a lacquer layer. I also think you get better overall results.
For your question. Sand each grit until you can't see scratches from the previous grit. If you move on and see a bigger scratch than the previous, back up a level and go until it is removed. Off of the lathe you would switch directions each time, on the lathe you just have to keep an eye on it. Once you get things on a solid base, progressive grits go quickly.
> To get rid of tool marks in the blank go over the piece multiple times not adjusting the positioning of the tool, the nature of the lathe is that it spins and when you move the tool you will get trenches in the material, when you go over it multiple times you end up lathing away the ridges.
If you are getting ridges, either your tool isn't set up properly, or your feed speed is wrong. You should see tool marks, but not ridges. If you have a pic of the blank in the lathe as you work it, that would be helpful.
> And lastly, I need to find something I can put up the pen barrel so that I can sand or lathe down the whole length, so far my search has been fruitless.
Make it. If you have a standard internal thread, make what you need to thread the pen blank on to work on it.
That's a lot of info to your questions. But finally I want to say good job. You really are getting the hang of this, and it is showing.
Interesting. This? Is it tedious to get a uniform polish around surface detail, or no?
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x8ELybCGS2NRK
Blue bottle #1 is a very mild abrasive that will take the coating off without damaging the screen underneath
A day late but good price for this Chemical Guys seal/wax combo $30.38 with the coupon
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018M31X48/ref=sr_ph_1?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=0fb3c6c251bf11e7a2ea12b6eb2019a40INT&ie=UTF8&qid=1497490037&sr=sr-1&keywords=Pete%27s+53+Paint&sa-no-redirect=1
https://www.amazon.com/McKees-37-MK37-7000-Coating-Complete/dp/B01MCVRG9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497023209&sr=8-1&keywords=mckees+kit
good deal? overkill/not needed?
Why's that? I'm fairly new to this, but isn't that recommended with certain products like this?
Chemical Guys HOL_111 – Jetseal & Pete’s 53 Protection & Shine Kit (6 Items) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018M31X48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yo55Bb3Q3XCY3
So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.
​
Is it worth the extra to get something like this?
TORQ BUF501X 10FX Random Orbital Polisher Kit (Polisher + 9 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXZ919I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0s2Cb0TDJXWE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G2MRLL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.HD1CbRQ7CRMH
some sort of acrylic/lexan. Depending on the severity, you can try polishing it out, it may not be completely fixable, but atleast minimized.
I used this on my fish tank... http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456792885&sr=8-1&keywords=Acrylic+Polishing+Kit
You jdon't need a buffing wheel. Just a microfiber cloth, some polish and some elbow grease. The buffing wheel would certainly speed things up, but pointless to buy for a one time use.
This is the 3 step process product that I'd recommend.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=novus+plastic+polish&qid=1549942602&s=gateway&sr=8-1
In the future, know that those magic erasers are abrasive. Good luck.
It really depends on how deep the scratches are.
Your best bet for minimal scuffs and scratches would be a plastic polishing compound. I use Novus pretty often when I do acrylic fabrication professionally, it is fine enough not to alter the optics if you use it properly.
If the scratches are deep enough to require sanding, I would advise against it since you risk removing too much material and altering the optics irreparably. If the scratches are too deep for polishing compound, you'll have to just live with it.
This product by Turtle Wax as well as this scratch and scuff removal kit from 3M.
Just a little elbow grease
Give a bottle of NuFinish a try. Rub in, wipe off. I did an entire car I was selling and it came out really well.
Nu Finish Once-A-Year Car Polish (16 oz) Bundle with Microfiber Cloth Kit (2 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3H6H2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1qNKDb79MBVJV
Meguiar's will always be a great company to buy from. Others see them as a beginner's product, but that's not true. I would recommend m105 and m205. With that combo you can do about 90% of vehicles. here's a good kit. A little over budget but it comes with everything you will need to polish your car using meguiars.
What is your opinion on the Mothers PowerBall 4Lights Headlight Restoration Kit?
My brother used something like this to remove the scratches from him lenses that were caused by his glasses rubbing on them.
I’m guessing you meant to ask how to remove the scratches, and if that’s the case your best bet is a Dremel (or similar) with a set of buffing pads and a 3 step polish like Novus. You could do it by hand if you don’t have a Dremel, but you’d need some serious patience.
You can get the CG Jetseal Along with Pete's 53 paste wax AND some mf towels and applicator pads for under $40 at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-HOL_111-JetSeal-Protection/dp/B018M31X48/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505319833&sr=8-2&keywords=chemical+guys+jet+seal
I was thinking something like this scratch removal kit might do the trick. Does anyone have any experience doing light restoration on metal furniture like this? Any tips?
For my fellow Canadians.... It's $68usd on amazon.com
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018M31X48
My friend, let me introduce you to Novus Plastic Polish
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
For the palmrest area I would VERY CAREFULLY use a Magic Eraser - do not touch the screen with it. For the outer shell I would use GooGone for the sticker residue and then this Novus Plastic Polish Kit to remove scratches/scruffs.
Scratch Removal Kit
It should work as long as the scratch hasn't gotten to the actual paint. I Used it on my motorcycle to clean up a scratch. Just need an 20v Drill. It's just a wet sand and buff process but it comes with all the stuff you need.
Thank you for the reply! Please excuse my ignorance as English isn't my first language and my knowledge of cars/detailing is slim to none. Would a polisher by something like this? Is using it just a matter of putting some on the sponge and rubbing it one the affected area?
And I actually googled elbow grease thinking it was some kind of special detailing grease haha. Thank you again!
I used this kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration-System/dp/B0000AY4YT
And I used this random orbital buffer:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Professional-Dual-Action-Polisher/dp/B002XOXSI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1345830823&sr=1-2&keywords=meguiars+random
I know you said you've tried the kits but if you continue to have problems I recommend this specific one:
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-PowerBall-4Lights-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00341MIAW
I have used the same kit on probably 6 or 7 cars now and it has worked great every time. I haven't ever tried anything else after buying this kit a couple of years ago, it's only like 20 or 25 bucks at auto parts stores and has served me well.
The clear parts will take a bit of work but you should actually be able to get them looking like new. (If there is still paint left on the part) Start taking off the paint by sanding with a high grit sandpaper mounted with double sided tape to a flat surface. Then I'd suggest buying this: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451329007&sr=8-1&keywords=novus and working your way through that, in the end it should look like new. I use it on every clear piece after I have removed the flash and sanded away the nub marks. You can even apply a gloss clear coat after that step as well to get a better than new shine.
As far as the paint beading goes, I think you diagnosed the problem already, since you aren't using primer on clear parts washing them is crucial. Do everything you can to have optimal painting conditions as well, and be sure to spray lightly, take your time, and SLOWLY build up layers.
Try this stuff!
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
3m makes a polishing kit for use with a power drill if you don't have a DA polisher. Comes with sandpaper, compound, Polish, and polishing pads. Just be careful to keep the pad moving. Lots of YouTube videos.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39071-Scratch-Removal-System/dp/B003NS5NK8
Buy this, and get a foam pad that can attach to a cordless drill. It's amazing stuff. It also includes UV protection in the final step. I've had experience with this many times for people in my club
https://smile.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG
Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5kE3DbDTZTTPG
I've used the Mother's Headlight Restoration kit made a huge difference.
Any experience with this one? McKee's 37 MK37-7000 Paint, Wheel & Glass Coating Complete Kit (13-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCVRG9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GtLRCbJ80X7SJ
This stuff works very well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mine squeaked a lil bit and were a lil dry. Probably from sitting in Texas summer heat all the time. They never got stuck howerver. I put on what I normaly use for my Dash and other interior materials haven't heard a squeak ever since.
Side note. Stuff works really well on the chin spoiler and the plastic parts around the tail lights. Those seem to get dull and dry easy too.
Try Meguiars Supreme Shine Protectant it will make the dash mint.
If you have a drill, look into this. It's a great way to be aggressive when you have really badly oxidized metal http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3400-Brilliant-Solutions-Polishing/dp/B004HCU77S
Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).
Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.
If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.
As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.
Thanks for the feedback. Here is the ceramic coating I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DZJ7VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, as part of the prep and pre-wash I am using:
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine
Carpro Iron X Iron Remover
Rain-X 620034 Spot Free Car Wash
It's good but there are better things out there for the same amount of money. I used to be into all this stuff, but now I'm so busy that I'm lucky if my truck gets washed once a month and even if it does; it's covered in dust and dirt from jobsites and home projects shortly after anyway. Hopefully when I build a garage this summer that will change.
I really couldn't recommend chemicals anymore, but I did purchase this last spring and was so busy that I haven't even used it yet, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PXZ919I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You buy one of those and keep up on washing, claying, and once a year polishing and sealing and you're good. I think I purchased some Chemical Guys Paint Sealant to go with it. I'm a huge fan of Meguiar's cleaning chemicals by the gallon.
I got the torq 10fx bundle on amazon, the polisher and 4 oz bottles of v line polishes + 3 pads for $195. Chemical guys stuff is kind of gimmicky but I'm really happy with this and it seems to be a pretty good value. Don't have experience with other polishers though.
Here's the link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PXZ919I?keywords=torq%2010fx&qid=1457835261&ref_=nav_ya_signin&sr=8-1
EDIT: it seems the $35 coupon isn't available anymore
I just bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like my PEI shiny so the bottom of prints have a more glass-like appearance. After a couple of years on this .06 in thick PEI bed, I had made a few gouges and scratches on the bed that were affecting my print quality. A quick go over with drill mounted polishing sponges and Novus plastic polishing compound really shines the surface right back up.
This stuff works great on your worn car headlights too!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You may want to move to the 8oz. I haven't used this yet, but someone from r/vive said yesterday they used it to repair scratches on a delicate lens (more important for functionality than your t top). I just bought this to try on my vive that has a scratched lens. If you'd want to wait a couple days I can update you on my success!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG
Recently picked up the 2017 S3, clay barred with Mother's clay bar and two stage polish with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P67GT7K followed by some nice CQuartz to seal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DZJ7VA. I also have a 1/3rd clear bra on there, it's an XPEL bra and not super noticeable.
I think it looks pretty good.
http://i.imgur.com/Z9e3MIz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qM1H57p.jpg
I use this to buff scratches out the windows of Funko Pops. It should work for this, but this scratch does seem pretty gnarly.
Hi all!
I have my end-of-lease inspection coming up in 5 days. 2014 Chevy Cruze in perfect working shape. Two items I know of:
Both areas are tough to see unless you really look for them, especially roof. But I imagine an inspector will see them.
Any tips on dealing with these? Today I ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS5NK8
Any other thoughts or experiences when turning in a lease? I will be washing/waxing the car/wheels and detailing all around, vacuum/dress interior, etc.
EDIT: Seeing that this 3M kit requires sanding, I canceled for now. Waiting to hear from you experts on what might work...thanks!!! :D
Price History
Did you previously attempt to clean it with a harsh cleaner and scrubber? If so, then they can leave small scratches on its surface leaving behind a cloudy look.
If that happened, you can attempt to 'repair' by using Novus 1 to clean the surface, then use Novus 2 or 3 and buff until the scratches are virtually invisible.
If you go this route, show us the results.
Try this first:
http://amzn.com/B0002UNON8
If that doesn't work try this:
http://amzn.com/B003NS5NK8
Check out these forums for more information on paint care etc...
http://www.autopia.org/
I'd recommend a standard Magic Eraser type thing available at any grocery store in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-Original-Cleaning-Packaging/dp/B001339ZMW
If it really abraded the surface, you may need to polish it with something like Novus III & II: https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/
I can’t remember if I’ve seen it at Oriellys but I used to use Turtle Wax Jet Black. That stuff lasted for a year without being reapplied.
Turtle Wax T-12KT Jet Black Endura-Shine Tire Coat Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOBSXQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zIdXDb39DFS7E