Best power conditioners according to redditors
We found 77 Reddit comments discussing the best power conditioners. We ranked the 20 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 77 Reddit comments discussing the best power conditioners. We ranked the 20 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If it is a simple power strip with a label, that's crappy.
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However, if it has some kind of Power Conditioning built in to smooth out the power, then it might be worth something. Would have to tear it down to see how it functions and if it's worth it.
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You should be the guinea pig and buy it, do a tear down and see what makes it tick to see if it is anything special :)
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I mean, look at this, it might not be hard to reconfigure it to work in a power bar type of form factor.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003BQ91Y6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b9AIQrT_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=6SCFDE35ND5CS1AETXZ0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=5f4660f5-92fb-57e0-933c-c6798bcfacba&pf_rd_i=8397352011
holy shit, that back panel looks like a cereal-box maze.
Its better. But velcro ftw. And kudos on the clever shelf -> cable ladder idea.
edit
Definitely dont mean to bum your high man, this is* an improvement. I'll make a few observations as a lay-person learning proper cable management techniques myself.
this is why zip ties are generally frowned upon. If its all you got, its better than nothing, but this is the way to go, by far. Zip ties may be "cheaper" but they aren't reusable.
It may never give you a hassle, but in production, thats a no-no, and its that way for a reason. Amperage draw specifically.
From the OSHA PDF (shakes head for quoting OHSA)
"when multiple power strips are
interconnected, the one directly connected
to the building outlet is often supplying
power to far more than the approved
number. This electrical current overload can
result in a fire or can cause a circuit breaker
to trip, deenergizing computers and other
equipment throughout the area."
that poor power delivery and circuit failure strains your devices and reduces life. I live in the real world too, where we have budgets and such. If you love your electronics, feed them well. Power conditioners not only evenly distribute power, but they clean up the spikes in the grid, making things easier on your gear.
Obviously there is some give and take in this, but the most beautiful SoHo Cable setups have boxes laid out logically, then the wiring wrapped to compliment. Exhibit A. Exhibit B. Note exhibit B bundles Data and Power together. Typically not a serious issue, but something to avoid if possible.
Sorry for the long edit, but my sarcastic humor floated to the top and I felt like an asshole. Kudos for your creativity. We learn things every time.
Here are some "Rack Essentials"
Shelfs/Rails:
https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510637469&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=1u+rack+rails&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Navepoint-Fixed-Vented-Server-Adjustable/dp/B01A6JQYDG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510637496&sr=8-6&keywords=1u+rack+shelf+sliding
https://www.amazon.com/Navepoint-Sliding-Vented-Server-Adjustable/dp/B01A6JQPFI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1510637508&sr=8-8&keywords=1u+rack+shelf+sliding
Drawers:
https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Server-Cabinet-Locking-Lockable/dp/B009WS7TSW/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1510637549&sr=1-4&keywords=1u+rack+drawer
Fans:
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDPLATE-Airflow-cooling/dp/B00ZQPDB7I/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1510637586&sr=1-5&keywords=rack+fan
Switched PDU
https://www.amazon.com/Eliminator-E107-Control-Center-S-Switch/dp/B000GASJF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1510637607&sr=1-1&keywords=individual+switch+pdu
Maybe you will find some of that stuff useful...
Just go ahead and get it over with. You'll never have to worry about power again.
This one on Amazon seems like a good place to start. Get one of these for your "always plugged in" gear, then a standard $10 Home Depot power strip for more flexibility. I also should have mentioned that it's a bad idea to "daisy chain" your power strips. One wall outlet = one power strip.
Get 2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-LLS-2-Level-Shifter-2-Channel/dp/B0002MSVDY
Dawg .. https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504258288&sr=8-3&keywords=furman
For the microphone stand if you ever wanna change it...
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSA1Rode--rode-psa1-professional-studio-boom-arm
These are excellent, I'm pretty sure Joe Rogan uses these now... can't remember. And he uses the SM7B so that was a noteworthy mention in your post.
For your other stuff...
https://www.amazon.com/dbx-166xs-Professional-Compressor-Processor/dp/B004NDJRKO/
Pick up one of these one day. You don't seem to use a limiter, your strip doesn't have one, and this will handle that, and this would solve the volume extremities issue with your stream where my wife gives me that look because you start yelling at some alt-right dipshit after I could barely hear you talking a second earlier. Thanks.
Then I would change out your mixer one day. It might have some noise you aren't happy with in the preamps (maybe not), and if so try one of these out. Allen and Heath is famous for having completely perfect preamps
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED60-10FX--allen-and-heath-zed60-10fx-mixer-with-usb-and-effects
They make a much smaller one as well if you don't need that many channels, obviously.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED6FX--allen-and-heath-zed-6fx-mixer-with-effects
But I'm not sure if it's up to the same standards and if you do that deal where you send some audio back in from the mic out on the computer, I always forget the terminology that podcasters made for that trick. Basically to isolate who is talking to you and put it into the mixer directly and you hear it and your audience hears it, and you can turn them down, etc... On my allen and heath I had to mess with it a bit to make that work right. Something to consider.
If you don't already use a RACK, might as well.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Desktop-Frame-Components-RK8OD/dp/B01NBPL8OP/
And I'd advise something like a power conditioner in the rack as well, keeps the gremlins out. I'm paranoid about sound, I use their cheaper power strips for my setup and it feels like it makes a difference, but maybe I'm tricking myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing-Voltmeter/dp/B00145EVJ6/
Just little things, but they probably won't be worth it overall. Stuff you might add to an amazon list or something. I'm a list guy. ;)
I use a few of these to toggle what has power on. I feel like I got mine a bit cheaper so maybe wait a little if you are interested. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GASJF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TqRtzbWEQSJQM
it already exist
Good option here
https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/fire-security-cables/power-supplies/product-90w2-19112.php
others
https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Supply-Channel-12Amps-output/dp/B00A2WJTHG
https://www.securitycameraking.com/16-channel-rack-mount-12v-59105-prd1.html
https://www.altronix.com/products/R1224DC16CB
https://www.amazon.com/Jim-Dunlop-11403000001-MC403-System/dp/B003KIL2L0
or potentially cheaper, get a music pedal power supply and print out rack ears for it
https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO
You have to be very careful with this route as guitar pedals use reverse polirity for their power. Rewiring the cables is a must.
What you are looking for is called a power sequencer. They're pretty common in the AV world. They're not super cheap, but probably cheaper than 8 smart outlets, and there's a lot less to go wrong.
Ex) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TTMSHS/
According to this article (it seems pretty trustable because of their testings that they've listend)
the best is the Furman Powerstation 8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YYVLAK/
Still not grounded correctly. Try to ground each of them separately to see if the hum changes/disappears. Could be numerous things: TT, preamp, receiver, or even your house wiring (hopefully not this). I would google "ground stereo equipment" or something similar and try to follow the different steps in order to isolate the problem. There are also products made to eliminate ground loop hum such as Hum Eliminator and Hum X Voltage Hum Filter. I actually used the second one at an old house I rented which had shit wiring and it eliminated the hum I always got when connecting my TT to my computer for sampling and then played out through the receiver. I have it in my current house to the outlet my stereo equipment is plugged in though it's probably more for show now than actually functionality.
Quick question, do you have any power conditioners? It's one of the first things I recommend when people have power problems. It'll also serve as a nice surge protector. They can be had for like 80 bucks and will save you a lot of hassle. From the sound of it, it's a ripple from shitty electricity, It'll clean up most power problems. Here is a good one. Also, is this a system you bought from PartsExpress by chance?
I have a weird pulsing "chirp" tone coming through almost any audio device, also through my PC power supply. Its definitely coming from the mains power in my house. Will this power conditioner "clean" my power and remove this pulsing chirp?
Economies of scale. Everyone uses these not just homelab users so they're cheaper.
At $110 I have no problem getting one of the nice ones for my shop(oscilloscopes tend to be sensitive) and HTPC setup.
Edit: They even have cheaper ones down at $58 with good reviews.
Popping like that I suspect a failing resistor or tube. If it happens when it's really warmed up maybe a resistor, if it happens any time I'd say try swapping the tube.
Definitely try swapping all the cables, speakers cables, other cabs if possible to rule everything out and be sure it's the head.
>It's plugged into a line conditioner
An actual voltage regulator or something more like a standard furman? The standard devices don't do much of anything for you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ - Adjustable clamp-jaw mount for cameras like the Logitech C920/922 (the most recommended cameras). Get a better or more unique angle.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - Pop filters help a lot with audio quality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017WNJS3M/ - Green screen it up and you can do all sorts of wacky or cool stuff, or it just cleans up the presentation of the stream in general.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Stream-Deck-Mini-Customizable/dp/B07DYRS1WH - The streamdeck mini just came out, pretty useful for doing goofy on-demand stuff with programmable buttons. Some people swear by these.
For higher end stuff for audio, put this stuff in a wish list if he does start to take off:
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M - Probably my most recommended mic for people wanting to get into the more serious stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dbx-286s-Microphone-Preamp-Processor/dp/B004LWH79A - Probably the best entry level audiophile grade mic preamp. This is endgame for streamers personally, it's way beyond what most people have and it will give him an edge.
https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04 - Cloudlifter CL-1. This is a must if you ahve a Shure SM7B, excellent high end filter that will absolutely remove all noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ - Further eliminates noise from dirty power. Everyone who wants a decent XLR high-end setup wants something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Heath-ZEDi-10FX-Compact-Interface/dp/B01ATAK5MS - This is an excellent mixer+audio interface combo, if you are going XLR you'll want a mixer. It's 4x4 USB, which for the price is a great value, and it's preamps and lines are notoriously silent. I bought the last version of this which was a 4x2 interface on a great sale, and couldn't be more pleased.
There's a lot more you can get of course. A simple small table rack to rack mount these things... But it all depends, the sky is the limit with this stuff. Just giving you ideas of how you can go nuts with it.
But at the core of it, if he's not organically growing by being consistent and working hard at it and trying to improve... Maybe he's just not entertaining enough? It is what it is. Don't think that buying this stuff really makes any difference, it only does if you are already able to gain viewers in the first place.
http://www.amazon.com/Furman-Series-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/
Does this look about right?
Furman is a popular brand. Buy the most expensive one you're willing to pay for that has good ratings. I own a really basic rack mount one and it works great. The M-8X2.
A power conditioner is arguably the most important thing in your signal chain. It will eliminate all line noise and and it also provides surge protection. No more pops or clicks turning things on and off. No more random noise in your mixer from questionable outlets at old venues. Piece of mind knowing your thousands of dollars of gear are protected.
Option One, Option Two, Option Three
I don't know how much your amps cost (mine are probably way cheaper) and they're on a beast of a power protection system.
Ah yes sorry, it was on the other thread.
Half of the stuff on the board are running 5V and half are running 9V. There's this box hidden in the back of the board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07841Z83P
I was thinking about getting this and adding it to my rack: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/
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That way I can turn everything off in one place.
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They have one that's more like a power strip too.
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Furman M-8X2
Not the fanciest, but I needed something reliable and solid.
Wow, didn't know those existed, thanks for the link!
I just might have to upgrade my mixer and get one of these suckers.
EDIT: Also just found these hum eliminators which work on TRS/TS cables!
Those look like speakon connectors for what it's worth.
Furman has some rack lights- leds on goosenecks. It looks like they discontinued their combo power conditioner/lights where the knobs you see in the picture are actually tubes which pull out, illuminating a stack.
You may want to look at pro-audio suppliers, as they have a big need for discrete rack lighting for concerts and other gigs.
That's the idea. I have them connected to a MBP, through a Yamaha 6-channel board, over XLR connections. I'm pretty happy both with their clarity and their sound output (90dBA output SPL per the specs - sounds about right). I do have them running through one of these however.
If you're looking for a ton of bass, you won't find it here without buying a separate sub (although they may surprise you for being 5" woofers). Otherwise their 8" pair should fit the bill pretty well, but they will cost twice as much for the pair.
A TRS (stereo) 3.5mm cable should be shielded enough as far as the cable goes, but you could try something like this- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ground-Isolator-HAVIT-Speaker-Filter/dp/B01IETQQQK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485469710&sr=8-3&keywords=Ground+Loop+Noise+Isolator
Another option to try would be cleaning up the source of electricity for the laptop. One way to do this is to use a UPS/battery backup that you can charge with the inverter, and then you plug the laptop into the UPS. This might be your best bet, but it would not clean up the power signal to the stereo.
There are also all sorts of power conditioners out there. For example, this is one that I used with my audio gear to clear up a hum from the old outlets in my apartment. I'm sure there's a UK equivalent- https://www.amazon.com/Furman-PL-PLUS-Amp-Power-Conditioner/dp/B001JJB2GM
EDIT: Didn't realize you also get a noise when a CD is playing. Cleaning up the power to the stereo itself could be complicated, depending on how it's wired in. They do make inline filters like this for these scenarios, but it could be hard to locate a specific source of noise. But definitely try the inline 3.5mm ground loop/noise isolator, it's cheap/easy.
Also, living on a narrowboat sounds awesome.
I actually have an empress echosystem. Maybe that helps in someway? Is this the furman thing you are talking ab? I’d just replace my regular surge protector with it?
Furman M-8X2 Merit Series 8 Outlet Power Conditioner and Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jhsDAbMH0ZY71
I recall someone on buildapc had a similar issue before. Their solution was to get a power conditioner... something like this or this may fix the issue.
They're commonly used for audio equipment where audible noise can result from dirty power.
Like https://www.amazon.com/EBTECH-HE-2-Ebtech-Hum-Eliminator/dp/B0002E4YH4/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=78134097853197&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=ground+hum+eliminator&qid=1568293974&sr=8-6
I do not know where you've been looking at power conditioners for $1200, here is one on amazon for $70
If none of his suggestions work, plug your amp into a power conditioner. I have this one in my recording rig because my audio interface is ungrounded and I was getting that hum until I added it. Pretty affordable for audio gear and Furman is a pretty trusted brand name.
I'm sorry, but even if this were the case, there are more affordable line conditioners that aren't from the highly overrated Monster: http://www.amazon.com/Furman-Standard-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing/dp/B0014598WQ/ref=sr_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1290938856&sr=1-24
Or even UPSes: http://www.amazon.com/OPTI-UPS-SS1200-Stabilizer-Automatic-Regulator/dp/B0007P11M4/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1290938856&sr=1-13
As far as the issue op is experiencing is concerned, a line conditioner will not help with this.
Line conditioners prevent interference effects like ghosting. The video being behind the audio is a synchronization issue between the video processor and the uninhibited output of the audio, which has nothing to do with EMI.
I don't know what that is. Like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=furman+pc&qid=1574539708&sr=8-1
> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.
You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box
> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:
Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.
I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.
I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.
> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.
That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.
> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.
You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.
I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.
Actually it's a production model. If you didn't know that, you're welcome! Check it out http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Dunlop-MC403-Power-System/dp/B003KIL2L0. I would shop around for a price, I was able to get it for around $220.
This should help...
Also, think about getting yourself a Furman Power Conditioner.
You're welcome. As mentioned elsewhere, the order of powering things on matters in some cases, so - power amp on last, if nothing else. I have a rack, and with both my conditioner and my amp's power switches on the front, it's easy. There are fancy/expensive power conditioners that can turn things on in sequence, but if you have a lot of hardware, even a basic/cheap conditioner is worth the money.
Also, in case you want a recommendation, /r/audioengineering (and others) pretty much swear by Furman. I have one of these and it's great.
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6
I had the same thing, even with my Scarlett 18i6 interface. It's likely caused by a dirty A/C signal in your home's wiring. I bought this and it cured the problem completely for me for my computer's previous location in my humble studio. Since, I've moved to another outlet; there is a very slight hiss but it's 1,000 times better than it was originally. If you want to test this theory before spending any money, you can try other outlets in your home and/or listening from a friend's house, library, etc.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GASJF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1427764867&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=rackmount+power+strip
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I use a Furman PL-8C power conditioner and a couple Furman Plug Locks to plug everything in. Everything turns on with the flip of the switch on the front of the power conditioner. Super convenient and no noise.
Isn't this better?
https://www.amazon.com/EBTECH-HE-2-Ebtech-Hum-Eliminator/dp/B0002E4YH4/
Balancing and unbalancing, with no level change.
Check to see if any part of your network is running parallel with high voltage cabling. I would attempt directly connecting to your LAN if your on wireless. Another option is to condition the power for your computer and router/hub.
Link to amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BQ91Y6
Thank you, this looks like what I need. If I get something like the Furman M-8×2, should I be plugging everything into that directly or is running the power strips I already have into that an option? (Or would it be defeating the purpose somehow?)
Just place your UPS on a shelf or the floor and run a cable up to one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GASJF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1427764867&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=rackmount+power+strip
This: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Aluminum-8-Outlet-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B000YYVLAK/ref=pd_bxgy_267_3/141-8697585-1408408?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000YYVLAK&pd_rd_r=096b52cd-a969-46dd-8144-9a61bcb4a9de&pd_rd_w=LveMb&pd_rd_wg=6W71d&pf_rd_p=3edd75bb-e36e-488e-b666-80dd1a52c658&pf_rd_r=FCRB4MRYZYE5CD032RYX&psc=1&refRID=FCRB4MRYZYE5CD032RYX
These are far superior to your typical strip that uses sacrificial MOVs. Even the more expensive Trip-lite Isobar products use MOVs.
This is either your 'Gain' set too high, or a grounding power issue to your computer/audio interface. I've personally had to buy a power conditioner to fix this issue. Something like this. You should also check to confirm you're actually using the SM and not a built-in mic or webcam mic. You may also get more help by posting this to /r/audioengineering/ as it's not much of a CSGO issue as much as an audio issue.
I would try it first after the pedals and before the FX loop return.
I would recommend the Ebtech, it's cheaper than the Palmer and it's got two channels so you could isolate before and after the pedals if need be. They would both do the job though.
You really should just stop embarrassing yourself. You don't have electrical knowledge. If you didn't you wouldn't be saying this.
Your cheap furman does not change the voltage on the output. The fancy volt meter on the front just displays the voltage.
Here is a Furman voltage regulator. See how much more expensive it is?
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-AR-1215-Standard-Regulator-Conditioner/dp/B000YZ46E2
This one is pretty popular:
http://www.amazon.com/EBTECH-HE-2-Ebtech-Hum-Eliminator/dp/B0002E4YH4/ref=sr_1_2http://www.amazon.com/EBTECH-HE-2-Ebtech-Hum-Eliminator/dp/B0002E4YH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397236641&sr=8-2&keywords=hum+eliminator)
This is pretty popular as far as power conditioners go:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PL8C?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=accessory&utm_term=furman_power_conditioner&adpos=1t1&creative=9557897641&device=c&network=g&matchtype=e&gclid=COya9vf42L0CFU1bfgodRnkA_g
Maybe you need a power conditioner?
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1537575727&sr=1-4&keywords=pyle+power+conditioner
Furman M-8Dx Merit Series Power Conditioning, 15 Amp, 9 Outlets with Wall Wart Spacing, Pullout Lights, Digital Voltmeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00145EVJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_R6FRub1R3NDCV
Best investment you can make to protect your gear. Along with a UPS to protect from brown outs.
rent or borrow a transformer isolated power regulator for a night and report back.
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-AR-PRO-Regulator-88V-142V-170V-264V/dp/B0006HHNOI/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1497365115&sr=1-6&keywords=furman+voltage+regulator+ar
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Conditioner-Voltage-Regulation-Delivers/dp/B003L9VVHS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1497365115&sr=1-3&keywords=furman+voltage+regulator+ar
these are NOT power conditioners or filter units. they run HEAVY transformers (both these units are at or over 50lbs - with NO batteries think about that) and you have basically brand new power coming out the other end. get something similar to this and this problem goes away.
Depends on what your power situation looks like. I agree with other comments that you don't need the individual switches. However, you may want a battery backup. I like the APC rackmount UPS units. However, if you already have reliable power, and you just want clean power, you can also look into a Furman power conditioner. Otherwise, there are plenty of good rackmount PDUs out there. Personally, I use an APC UPS on it's own, but my rack isn't fully contained and is in a closet full of gear.
you might have some power issues in your home and may need a power conditioner. I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6) and it has worked wonders and cleaned up all my hums and doubles as a surge protector, protecting all your hard earned expensive gear.
I've been researching Power Conditioners, and there are a lot of differing opinions out there. I'm wondering if anyone here has an idea if it would be worth it to purchase something along these lines in order to improve my sound quality and/or protection, and if so, which one would be best. Thanks!
Furman
Nady
Pyle
As others have said, that's ground hum. The pro option to get rid of it is a power conditioner. You can buy one for under $100. Make sure all of your gear is plugged into only that.
The next best option is changing where you plug things into your mains power, a.k.a. the wall. If you have equipment on different circuits in your house, that can cause that kind of hum as well. Do you have things plugged into different walls? If so, plug them all into the same outlet pair and see if that doesn't help.
If you can't do that because you need too many mains connections, you either need a power conditioner (my recommendation) or at the very least a decent power strip so everything is running off the same mains circuit.
I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Livewire-11-Outlet-Conditioner-Distribution-System/dp/B007CTY0YE which works fine. Can't endorse it too strongly as I didn't do any comparison testing and there may be better stuff in the same price range, but it definitely works fine for me. Try just changing outlets first though and it may go away.
Also saw this
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Standard-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing/dp/B0014598WQ
Now I'm still having trouble understanding the benefit of the APC or Cyberpower over something like the TPLink below.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AI0N2?ref_=pe_623860_70668520
Can you also explain how these work with modern day devices and having multiple hooked up drawing power? If I have my Sub, AVR, TV, PS4, Switch, etc that like 5-6 devices all pulling energy. I assume most of these surge units just plug into a standard wall socket and and provide enough juice for all devices without causing one to shut down or function incorrectly due to lack of juice.
Ok so by the looks of it he's got the effects pedals covered, I would go for something else and let him get anther pedal on his own. These are my recommendations that will benefit his current setup.
This is a nice expensive version of this and this is a midway between the other two. These are power conditioners they will help his equipment operate more efficiently and quieter and will last decades(you can use them for home theatre use as well)
I would also recommend nice cables like these they are lifetime warranty. Here's another very useful maintenance kit that will last a very long time. If you pick the 110$ furman you can get all three.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6
Works great, but you could probably find a less expensive one... I wouldn't go for a cheaply made power strip or conditioner, though.