Best power converters according to redditors
We found 1,710 Reddit comments discussing the best power converters. We ranked the 609 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,710 Reddit comments discussing the best power converters. We ranked the 609 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Same here with a converter And came with small adapters for all scenarios. Love this thing. 20+ countries 4 continents and makes you a hero at the airport where everyone is sharing one outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA
The powercube you shown is not a transformer. It WILL NOT convert 220v to 110v used in US. Most AC adapters operates with both 100v/220v, such as a typical laptop power block. But not all your electronic toys can handle 220v, for example travel iron. Some electrical devices has a 110/220v flip switch. When in double, read the fine print on the label of your device. Or be safe and invest in a transformer (just an example. I have something else brought in a foreign country)
Setup:
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Parts list
Bonus for CD Users! (current wip for me)
Grab a raspberry pi, a USB CD Drive, and VLC. Automate the action taken when a CD is inserted to start VLC, start playback and output to the speaker group "Renderer". (Or just rip to plex/media manager of choice like the tech literate end user you are!)
There's a few things you can check.
First, most adapters do NOT convert voltage, they simply make the plugs fit in the other hole. If you look at the 'power brick' of the device you're connecting if it has one (AC to DC converters like USB wall chargers, laptops, etc.) then they will have Input and Output sections (most will have something like "Input: 100-240V AC~50-60Hz 0.5A"). Anything like this doesn't need a voltage converter, just the outlet adapter so it fits in the hole. Hair Dryers/Curling Irons are notorious for exploding when plugged into 240V, which is why they almost all have a switch somewhere that must be set to the higher value. If you have it set to 240 and plug into 110, it just won't get hot enough. The other way around is bad news.
If you do have a voltage converter (which is highly unlikely, it would be a very expensive and heavy device. $20 on Amazon will NOT convert voltage), then it should say somewhere on it (or in the instructions) what the output is. In this case, it should have been something like 110V AC~60Hz ???A. In this case, if your device tries to draw too many amps, you can blow up the converter (or more likely your device just won't work). For example, this device has a maximum of 200W which is flirting with what some curling iron type devices use. I am having trouble imagining any situation where using a voltage converter would blow up the device connected to it, unless the converter output was set to a higher voltage.
But in general, all of that small print that is on things that plug into outlets actually has some important and useful info. As long as everything is in range, you shouldn't have any problems.
Maybe [this?] (http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1454031693&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+audio+knob)
100v transformers are fairly cheap on Amazon and a good investment if you want to get further into Japanese computers (do it!).
I use one of these for my HB-101: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_1?
agreed. I got one because it was too interesting not to try out.
It is very well made, and I wanted to find it useful but it just wasn't. For most non-art actions it seemed to be a complicated substitute for a scroll wheel that you had to unhand your mouse for. The most useful function in day-to-day windows work I found was as a volume knob.
So, I ended up instead getting one of these (which is fantastic for Google Earth):
https://www.3dconnexion.com/spacemouse_compact/en/
and an actual dedicated volume knob:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG
Much better.
I also now see they make a wireless version of the Space Mouse.
You don't want a voltage divider, that's a pretty specific circuit made out of resistors ;)
I've found these little devices pretty handy for running things off a 12V supply. They're limited to 3A, but with a little bit of wiring you should be able to run them in parallel... tweak both of them to the exact same output voltage on your multimeter, then wire them up in parallel, throw a 100uF cap across the output leads to help filter the supply, check the voltage, and you're set. Once the rig is running to your satisfaction superglue the pot screws so they don't get turned accidentally.
Definitely this. There would have been an aerial uhf/vhf antenna on the roof, it used 300 ohm flat two wire cable to connect to these leads, old TVs connected.directly or you could get a.converter to go to 75ohm coaxial
Like this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY&ved=2ahUKEwikgdXFjbvjAhVBxFQKHRiAD_YQFjABegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2ePM00Y7EX6FfrOxxeXz6w&cshid=1563337387146
I think what you need is an antenna to coaxial adapter.
I think this is what you need to connect a convert box to the tv:
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY
An RF Switch connected to a Matching Transformer with the TV set tuned to channel 3? That is how we had to hook up consoles to our old Televisions in the 1980's.
You cannot just wire it into a 120v outlet. If you have an electric clothes dryer, that will use 240. Or an electric range. Still I wouldn't recommend you mess around with this - get help from someone who knows what they're doing. Or as someone else recommended, get a 120-240 transformer. Something like this.
Looks like India has 220 V. So you should be able to buy the xbox one from the US, and a European power brick, or just a European version.
You may need a plug adapter though.
edit: Yeah, looks like you might need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374389779&sr=1-1&keywords=voltage+converter
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Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
Your TVFool link is not working for me. Thats a VHF/UHF antenna judging by the sizing of the elements so it should work. That box is an FM trap which means it would filter out FM radio frequencies. This can help reception if you have strong FM stations nearby and are trying to draw in weaker TV stations. The FM trap has a bypass switch, its currently in the off position so it is NOT filtering FM. The 75 or 300 switch allows you to change the trap output between 75 ohm coax cable and 300 ohm twin lead. You'll want to leave that on 75 and connect your coax cable to the box. If that box gives you trouble you could try bypass it by purchasing one of these. But I would give it a go with the current setup before purchasing anything else.
To start, you'll need one of these to connect the antenna leads to a coaxial cable: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PN19KZXXQZQ06C6R7A34 Then you need to figure out how to connect the coax to the digital signal.
You could get one of these to go from HDMI to 480RCA out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017M05AXW/ Then get one of these to convert the RCA to a coax signal: https://www.amazon.com/CIMPLE-CO-Composite-Converter-Modulator/dp/B06XC9Y3VB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542760515&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+coax&psc=1
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So the chain would be: digital source --> HDMI --> HDMI to RCA converter --> RCA --> RCA to RF/Coax converter --> Coax --> Coaxial to Antenna Leads converter --> TV
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA
I'm betting you can find one cheaper locally though.
US mains electricity is only slightly higher voltage than Japanese mains electricity so you should be able to use a Japanese system in North America without a step-down transformer (and many do).
If you really wanted to confirm the power supply can handle the slightly higher voltage you'd need to look at the PCB, as the back of the console will only indicate 100V. This one is rated at 85V-132V, for example, so would work fine in Japan or North America. You'd need to check your own power supply though to see what it could handle.
Otherwise they do sell step-down transformers like this but it could well be unnecessary.
where to begin...
your stock alt is most likely ~90 amps, you should be fine powering that hifonics off of it. that being said upgrading your battery is a good idea, even if that is just buying a new battery (something like an interstate megatronII will be fine) and doing the big 3 is also a good idea, at the very least upgrade your battery to chassis ground (0 ga CCA will be fine for this).
as for your installation options, you will be needing a LOC if you want to keep the stock HU, something like this will be fine.
the stock HU should be just fine running those alpines and no it does not put out 160W rms, its probably closer to 10W per channel so those alpines will cope just fine.
if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask, this sub is here to help.
You can indeed do this. Peoples has been doing this with car audio for years.
You will need to get a high to low signal converter which is basically a resistor to increase the impedance and output a weaker signal to the active amplifier.
Note that depending on the power output of your receiver you might have to turn down the subwoofer output quite a bit to not blow or melt the converter as the one I linked above can only take a maximum of 50 watts per channel.
You don't want to use a linear regulator for this big of a voltage drop - you're going to waste a LOT of power (and you're going to need to dissipate that power loss as waste heat).
Easiest solution here is to use a Buck Converter - you can easily achieve >90% efficiency with this. You can either build one yourself, or if you look on amazon there's tons of them available (e.g. this one for <$10)
I'd need to read the specs, but that adapter is really meant to offload the power for the breadboard components from the RPi, not power the RPi itself. Most I've encountered require 6.5v or higher input since they're dropping the input to 3.3v and 5v. Test your power levels with a meter.
For a RPi 3b, you want a quality 5V 2.5 A power supply. Make sure that adapter can provide that. The one I linked to doesn't deliver 1/3 of that. You can get by with less, but < 1A is pushing it.
It's actually just a power supply made to fit on one of those protoboards and supply power to the rails.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=asc_df_B010UJFVTU5488754/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B010UJFVTU&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=194024095585&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=17101159569730068889&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9029787&amp;hvtargid=pla-314833700048
Just buy a cheap universal adapter(with good reviews though). You don't need a transformer for a laptop or phone charger.
something like this
You need a plug adapter and depending on what you’re plugging in, a voltage converter you can get both here. Some things like most laptops don’t need the voltage converter. Other things like hair dryers do, so research what you want to plug in and whether you should use the voltage converter or not.
Composite video out of the Pi using this cable
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2881
and an RF modulator to connect to the Antenna In connection on the TV
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-rf-modulator-black/4947028.p?skuId=4947028
If your TV is even older and only has VHF terminal connections, then you also need a Matching Transformer
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540062212&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+matching+transformer&dpID=41CIx78IkcL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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Note: Do not buy the standard composite out video cables from Amazon. Most of these will not work with the Pi (unless it specifically says it does) because the pinnouts are different (even though the cable looks the same). Also, don't buy the cheap RF modulators on Amazon because some of them are very cheap knock off brands that don't work correclty. I made both of these mistakes when I was getting started.
Ok so you have 2 options, one not as practicable but would be more convenient with more sets. Option 1, the easier one, is to get an adapter like this one. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=75+ohm+to+300+ohm+adapter&amp;qid=1573104431&amp;sprefix=75ohm+to&amp;sr=8-9
It doesn't have to be this exact model but you just need some sort of adapter like this one. Considering this tv was made without any inputs other than RF, this is your best bet. This is also considering your vcr has RF, but since nearly every vcr has RF already you should be fine. The second option, is less practical but possible is to create your own analog station in your home. Since the analog airwaves for tv have been pretty much abandoned, you can do what you want with it and this would be a neat thing to setup, especially since it would also be able to transmit to portable tvs also. If you don't want to buy an adapter brand new, you could probably find a used one in a thrift store but the new ones are not all that expensive either. There are also rca to RF converter boxes so with those you can take composite video and lay it on this tv.
If you want to retain stock & just install a sub and amp it's a simple job.
You just need to purchase a 2 channel line converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3YN5tb0KVS0G4
After that just split that converter into one of your rear speakers. Use the RCA's and plug it into your mono amp and your all good.
I'm assuming you know how to power your amp & hook up your sub to your amp.
Yes. Use a 24vdc power supply with 6+ amps and then use a buck converter to drop the 24v to 5v.
Buck converter
Power supply
This is very close to what I've was working on for a very long while and gave up. I just don't have the programming kung fu. I would love to get back on it as I've got the hardware down just the damn programming kicked my but.
here is a picture of what I trying to achieve.
the ramp and the numerical display
and I just wanted to press a button to toggle between the different sensors. I sorta got the ramps working but I couldn't get programmed how to get the ramps to show different sensors at a button push.
Maybe we can work together or maybe a peak at your code to give me a hint on how to proceed.
Edit: by the way after calulating the amp draw I decided to use one of these to power the sensor as it's more stable and cleaner for my install needs.
If you're worried about low voltage dropout, you could go to 4S and use a step-down (or just "buck", no boost) converter circuit. That should give you a stable 12V without significant wasted power.
A buck converter only steps voltage down, not up. It also doesn't simply burn excess power due to a higher voltage like a linear regulator does.
These kinds of things would do the job. Just make sure what you use is rated for the current draw you need. Those are only rated for up to 3A.
hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.
amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
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on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.
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as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used
Sounds like over-draw or short protection. I had the same issue when I tried to drive a signal voltage shifter directly from the RPi's 5v pin. I ended up getting some super-cheap 12v-to-adjustable step-down converters and powering all of my accessories from those via the PSU rather than the RPi itself.
Got it for bias lighting when using my computer at night, I got it in warm white because I use F.Lux to change the color temperature of my screen to warm white. I still need to get a switch because it stays on even with my computer off. I already had the voltage converter laying around, otherwise I would have gotten a 5-volt led strip.
Product links:
LED Strip ($2.88)
Voltage converter ($11.99)
I've traveled to quite a few places with my kit lens. It's pretty damn good.
You still have time to fill out the rest of your stuff, if needed:
Filters:
Singh-Ray Filters makes a "ColorCombo LB" filter. Works like wearing a pair of polarized GOOD quality sunglasses outdoors. I never took it off. Excellent quality and helped when the sky was overexposed and when I generally wanted to get a more intense color.
Lens:
Your kit lens will be more than fine for anything during the day. But at night is different. The kit is meh at night. You definitely want something to capture night time. Maybe some star time lapses? Those are always cool.
Leica 15mm F1.7 My wallet hurt when I bought this, but to be honest, it's on my camera more than it's not. It makes the night look amazing. The quality is awesome too.
Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This is our "go-to" as a second lens (for day and/or night), but to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Too much for me, but it's still worth mentioning.
Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away).
Microphones:
If you want a better microphone get the Videomic Pro+. The difference between this and the others are that the mic turns on/off automatically when the camera turns on/off and it has a USB rechargeable battery.
Batteries:
Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are three types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM (which are decoded).
Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.
SD Cards:
I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.
You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.
External Drive:
You WILL run out of space on your laptop. You can either purchase 3-4 SD cards, or you can get an external HDD. Each has it's pros and cons.
Battery Pack / cables:
Whether it's your phone / headphones / batteries / tablet / whatever, I suggest the Anker PowerCore. These things are beasts. One of these made sure I was able to fly from here to Australia without worrying about battery levels.
You'll also want to carry extra wires. Whether MicroUSB, USB-C, or Lightening, I would never use anything else but Anker PowerLine
International Charger:
I used the BESTEK Travel Adapter and loved it. Plenty of ports to charge stuff on. It has a small fan (to keep it cool) that some people say bothers them, but I'm the lightest sleeper and it didn't bother me. Barely heard it.
See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.
Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.
Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.
You need this.
I don't know a company, but I built my own. To connect it to existing coax, you need a balun, something like this. If you haven't already bought an antenna and are the DIY sort, you can google for "Grey Hoverman" for a decent one to build. The one I built gets a ridiculous number of channels, and it's made out of picture wire and a 1x3 from Home Depot.
Edit: Should note, appearance wasn't an issue for me because it's in the attic, I spliced it into the coax the previous owners had run for satellite TV. YMMV
The mains output voltage in residential homes in Kenya is 240V, compared to 120V in the US and Japan. Your American 3DS charger is only rated up to 120V. As soon as you plugged it into the Kenyan power outlet, your 3DS power adapter fried. You will need to buy a brand new one when you return to the US, or you can get one in Kenya depending on how long you'll actually be there.
Your laptop's/iPod's/phone's power adapters did not fry because adapters for these devices are usually rated for the range 110V-240V. It is only really Nintendo's adapters that I have to watch out for nowadays.
Next time, do not use those small outlet converters for devices that are not rated at the proper mains voltage. What you need is a transformer, and you should not cheap out on this because transformers can be risky to use.
I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n64WDb30J7A68
Look at the power supply on your computer. Chances are that it can handle 100V/50Hz input just as well as 120V/60z (as most power adapters can).
So, you'll just need a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter.
If you're really worried about it, get a converter like this: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4 (just watch total load)
You could buy it ahead of time or once there. I don't know about Hokkaido, but they can easily be found in Tokyo.
I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.
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Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
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4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.
SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W
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You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.
SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob
If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
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You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.
ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure
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|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|
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That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.
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You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.
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You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.
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I hope this info helps.
(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
its called a line level converter, and the type they sell for cars will work fine. should be able to get it easily in any car audio shop.
or:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/
What kind of amp do you have? Some amps have speaker level inputs, you could just connect the speaker outputs on the head unit to go direct to your amp. Doing this will keep your fader working.
If your amp does not accept speaker level inputs, you can always use a line output converter that will take the front speaker outputs on your head unit to convert to RCA.
Here's a line out converter
Its called a line output converter
If you don't plan to upgrade the other speakers in the future, the lower-priced options (meaning: whatever you find at your local electronics supplier) will be fine.
Fancier models can give you more outputs, such as Front, Rear, Sub, and will also give you more level control.
My recommendations are:
Budget - PAC-SNI-35
Midrange - AudioControl LC2i
High End - AudioControl LC7i
Audiophile - JBL MS-8
Again, it mostly depends on your future plans.
The cheapest of the cheap will do the job, but if you can afford it, pick one that is a bit more than you think you currently need.
Because chances are good that you'll want to continue upgrading.
Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.
Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0
Check this out
Its relatively easy. Splice into rear speaker wires for preamp (rca) signal, and run power & remote,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495131589&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=rca+converter+for+car+stereo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51N99mFrh%2BL&amp;ref=plSrch#
unless it's one of the newer signal sensing auto ON amps.
Or disconnect the oem Bose sub harness, leave it disconnected and tap into that harness for power, remote, and signal (+ & -).
As for the shop and the previous backup camera issue, find another shop asap. Those idiots either grounded the monster amp to the tiny ground screw that the backup cam uses, or they spliced into the camera's power wire as a remote turn on for the amp since it powers on with the ignition.
Try over at Best Buy, their auto installation bay area where they do alarms, radios, gps, etc.
Definitely check crutchfield.com. They have an online "what speakers fit my car" section, and their customer service is great, as well as their knowledge of in-car entertainment. You can even call them with questions.
you might be able to use just a physical adapter. A lot of times 240V parts will also work with 120V, just not the other way around. Not much danger in trying
for example, https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ (not endorsing this, just an example)
There are plenty of adapters available on Amazon. For example:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ceptics-Travel-Plug-Adapter-Type/dp/B0080SE6H2/
If it was me, I would just buy the US adapter and then sell the UK one on Amazon or eBay
All you need is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0080SE6H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491763540&amp;sr=8-10&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=plug+adapter
Even a 9V will run out of juice eventually, unless you're talking rechargeable. You could also just buy rechargeable AAAs.
Back of the envelope calculations for average alkaline batteries - 9V batterries have ~5.085Wh, 3 AAA's have ~2.58Wh. To step 9V to 3.5V (3 AAAs in series), you'll have efficiency losses in the best case of ~80% with a buck regulator or 4.068Wh and the worst case with a linear regulator (3.5/9) = ~38.9% => 1.98Wh. So in the best case you'll get a 4.068/2.58 = ~1.58x increase in battery life with a 9V, for the added cost of a buck regulator.
A few of my own:
A great many things...including things you might not otherwise think of...can be powered by a 12V DC power source, such as a car battery.
Swing by Wal-Mart, and check out the Deep Cycle "marine" batteries. They're pretty low quality for marine needs, but they're perfect for ours. Even a mere 50AH of capacity will be PLENTY for what we do. You can pick one up for $40-$80 depending on size/capacity.
Next, look for or build some sort of distribution panel/box/etc. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. All you're after is some central point so you can plug in all this stuff you never knew could be powered off 12V. Personally, I use this guy but there's lots of other methods of doing this.
Now...there's all the obvious things you can power with it. Most motorized mounts, for example, plug right into the car lighter outlet. You can, of course, clip that connector and put some other connector (like the banana plugs my unit takes) on if you wish. But for these items, no further mods are necessary. Dew heaters and camera coolers are other common 12V devices.
Now here's where we get cute...Got a DSLR? It probably has an AC Power Adapter available for it, right? Take a close look at the specs for it...you'll see that while its INPUT is 120VAC (plugs into a wall) it's OUTPUT is plain ole DC...PROBABLY 7.2V or so (a 2 cell LiPo, for the record). Grab yourself a little adjustable step down gadget, cut the cable on the CAMERA side of the converter that's inline, and just use the handy battery adapter piece. Solder it up to the output side of your step down supply, solder up some wires on the input side, set it to 7.2 (or whatever) output, and poof...12V power for your camera. :)
You'll find there's a zillion devices that "plug into the wall", but if you check their OUTPUT, it's 12V DC (or less)...and thus, you can use this method to power them in the field off your field battery. :)
What good are they? Well...they're adhesive on the back, AND you can cut them to your desired length, and solder new lead wires onto each strip. Viola...you've got night-vision safe lighting for your laptop, your telescope, your field table..whatever! They serve both to illuminate your work area, AND mark your equipment for others' safety.
For programming, I had to provide the 3.3v power to the sonoff from a separate power source. My USB ports couldn't provide enough juice for programming so I used on of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
You would need a soldering iron. You can desolder the av connector and solder it to the pi. Im confused how you want to power it. If you want to power everything off a 5v in you need a dc to dc booster like this to power the screen. Or if you want to power everything off 12v like the monitor needs you can use something like this. The pi needs about 2amp to run so just check how much the screen needs (its on the back sticker) to figure out your input
Add a fuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/
You will also need a 12v to 5v converter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/
12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.
5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.
Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.
One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)
You'll need a 5v regulator to charge your phone. If you've got a extra battery tray lying around this buck convertor will do the trick. But it would probably be easier to hit up walmart and pick up a small portable battery bank. I've got a few that are about the size of a 26650 cell and say there 2400mah. You might even be able to find them at a dollar store but there quality may be a bit more dubious.
When looking for 26650's these are the only ones you should concern yourself with. All mooch's recommended 26650s and hes the best person to trust when it comes to batteries. Canvape usually has the best price on batteries in Canada. Otherwise if your cool ordering from the US hit up illumn or lightningvapes
AWT Yellow 75A 4500mAh
Basen Black 4500mAh
Brillipower Green 80A 4500mAh
Efest Green 20A 4200mAh
MXJO Yellow 35A 3500mAh
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K
Of course I couldn't waste all that energy from the exercise bike... so I thought I'd build a generator to capture some of it.
I have a working prototype using a NEMA 17 motor and a simple two bridge rectifier. I'm getting ~20-35v normal riding, but the problem is, at peaks I'm getting upwards of 45v. I was using a 2596-SDC (4-40V buck converter) but I let out the magic smoke when I rode on the bike at a fast pace.
My intent is to use this to charge a USB battery bank. I purchased a DC-DC buck converter (4.5-40V to 5V/2A), but I'm worried it will suffer the same fate.
Looking for advice on how to handle the overvoltage. Some sort of zener diode circuit?
Does your breadboard come with a power supply? If not, this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T-ihzbKYP93BC
It has both a 3.3v and 5v line.
3.3/5V power supply that goes right into the breadboard in lieu of an adjustable Eventek.
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Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
Get yourself a little something.
> PC Volume Control Knob, DROK USB Volume Adjuster Knobs Audio Sound Controller for Adjusting Volume of Computer, No Loss of Sound Quality with 4.6 Feet Cable
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lti8BbK3KS6BW
looks like this thing https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501348428&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=USB%2Bvolume%2Bknob&amp;th=1
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520821216&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=volume%2Bcontrol%2Bknob&amp;th=1
I personally have a Dac/Amp for my headphones and a separate audio interface for my speakers, but most people probably aren't looking to spend a good 100 bucks on audio equipment.
I have a Skross since ages, works well and very sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Skross-Travel-Adapter-2-pole-Charger/dp/B00E4GF2TU
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Before that I had a similar looking one but much cheaper, generic brand, you could feel it was much more fagile and poorly built. Tt burnt in South Africa when I plugged it into the wall lol. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ
Get the cheapest plug adapter you can find, and several of them, because you'll probably leave one in a hotel room. You can get the simple blocky ones for 8 bucks or less on Amazon, and if you had to pick one up at an airport you'd pay like $20.
And now, to contradict my own advice, I also like the USB chargers which take multiple plugs. If you travel with multiple USB-charged devices like my family does, they are very useful. There are many on Amazon, here's two at random:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-YXwin-4-Ports-International-Adapter/dp/B072FV67ZS/ref=sr_1_7
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MoMoCity-International-Worldwide-Smartphone/dp/B01M1GUJHV/ref=sr_1_10
EDIT: Looks like you can get the simple blocky ones with USB now. It might just make sense to pick up a few of these instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504473249&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=international+plug+adapter
Travel charger !!! This is a good one https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA
The splitter was needed because you probably wanted to get the coax to both your FM receiver and the TV or set top cable box. It was nothing more than a simple coax splitter.
However, you'd also need a matching transformer to convert coax at 75ohm into the two leads for your receiver's external FM antenna at 300ohm.
At least, I think that's how I did it. :-)
Alcade looks like a good source for future research. I noticed KTSB and KVRX matched hits in many different issues, and while perusing those parts, adjacent articles also looked interesting.
I went to ACTV studios one evening when Dean Langston was doing his dating show, Singles Hotline. I have part of one of those on VHS somewhere. I never directly participated in the show, that I remember, but ended up going out a few times with the chalkboard girl he had on the show that same night tallying contestant answers. It looks like he passed away in 2001. Here's a clip of him ... previewing VR (which I'm pretty sure has been posted here before).
When We Were Live was dropping ACTV videos on here (/u/ArchiveAlias/), but I haven't seen them in awhile. Here's their youtube.
I watched hours of Ask Livia LIVE! ... or maybe she was just on TV in the background while I talked to friends on the phone all night, because that's what we did.
Could help. I'd try making sure it's pointed almost straight east first, since that's where most of your signals should be coming from, and seeing if you get any signal from NBC.
Also if you have a Stereo with an antenna input you can get one of these doohikeys and connect it to that roof antenna for extra reception.
Edit: Forgot, we had an issue similar to this in my old house. One of our TVs would not pick up a certain channel. I think it was either NJN or maybe ABC, can't remember now. Every other TV would get it and have quite high signal strength but that TV would see no signal at all. It did have an extra maybe 30ft of wire from my TV to that TV and that wire was very very old so that could have played a part but it was only 1 channel that it lost which is so bizarre. Never could figure out why, we even hooked up another indoor antenna with no luck.
It's usually the big expensive Tv's that don't have an antenna option. If your cheap little TV is so old that it only has an analog tuner, it may have a twin lead 300 ohm connector instead of 75 ohm coaxial connection. Then you might need an adapter like this
As for an internet backup, I have cable at home and my cell phone can turn on as a cellular hotspot. They aren't going out at the same time. My cable was out during Hurricane Irma (along with my power) for three days. I wasn't streaming video, but I was checking email and downloading ebooks. I take that back. I did stream video some. I would sit in my car for about an hour a day running the engine for A/C and watching the local TV stations livestream.
The Apple II has a composite video output - but you need an RF modulated signal for your tv. So, you can take the composite video signal to an RF modulator, like this one. If your television doesn't have a coaxial antenna input, you'll also need an antenna matching transformer, like this one.
The dipoles are connected with a c/137MHz/4*VF piece of RG8X soldered on, then a 4:1 tv balun was soldered on so I could easily hook coax up. The impedance matching suuuucks horribly, and I would have a better antenna without the 4:1 balun, but it was quick and dirty and it works.
The item you linked to pulls almost 5 amps at 110 volts which is ~500 watts. The transformer you said 'went up in smoke' was rated for 100 watts so I'm sure it didn't last very long at all. You need a simple step down transformer thats rated at >500 watts. This should work: https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542787838&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=500W+transformer although I'm not sure of the type of plugs used in the philipines.
Before you buy a transformer, check on the bottom of the fan or on its power adapter (if it has one) if it's rated for full-range (100-240V) use. I don't see any information in the manual for this model, but reviewers of other DC-powered fans by this manufacturer claim that the DC adapters for those are full-range.
If it's not full range, then see the following:
The manual doesn't list the amperage/wattage for this fan, but it does specify a 2.5-amp fuse for the cord. This means that at 120V, the fan can draw up to 300VA (about 300W) at full power.
With this in mind, I would recommend a 400W step-down transformer or larger. You want to use a converter with an actual transformer in it, like this one. Don't use a step-down converter with a triac (very light-weight and will usually be rated for a very high power for its size).
I would not expect the lower frequency to adversely affect the electronics, since the electronic parts will be fed from a rectifier.
Must be one of those cheap solid state transformers, apparently all the cheap travel converters on Amazon have this limitation. You might have to get a full size transformer and not a travel sized one. Something like this
If the device says "INPUT 100-240v" (or 110-220v, etc...) on it you will only need a plug adapter.
If not, you will need a step-down voltage converter. These things are bulky and heavy and you may find it easier just to buy a new whatever over here. They have cheaper, smaller ones but I've yet to use or even read reviews of one that seems dependable. They tend to break.
I used the vct vt-500j https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524442901&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=vct+vt-500j
How about this one? It's priced pretty well too compared to the foreign models. It doesn't have a microwave though. Otherwise:
This is the one. So far so good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PC4JL4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486433480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=us+to+japan+power+converter
Yep, I bought this one and use it for my Japanese consoles with no issues:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PC4JL4/
You need this voltage converter
The model should have the voltage it's designed for one it, I believe.
Many were sold for american markets.
I'm not sure how picky the srd-6 is, if it was designed for certain voltages, or a range.
I don't have mine on me to check if it's labelled.
I do remember people on head-fi saying they plug it in to american outlets just fine, but it might shorten it's life if it's not meant for it.
You're best bet is to search the 1000 page stax thread on head-fi.
Diffidently not European.
I use this converter
Also, I take it you won that auction that just went for 111?
Congratulations.
I brought my 3DS! Cambodia uses 220v power, and the 3DS requires 120v, so if you're going to plug it into the wall, you'll need a voltage converter. I brought this one and it has been great. Your other option is to only charge it via USB cord through your computer, or through an external battery pack.
As far as Cambodian outlets go, 2-pronged American or European plugs will fit in any outlet. This is what my outlet (and most outlets) looks like. If you've got 3 pronged things, you'll need a 3-to-2 adapter. I plug the above mentioned converter into my wall (two pronged), and then plug my power strip into that (3 pronged), so I have plenty of outlets for 3 pronged things. If you're planning to travel outside Cambodia, one of those international adapters would be handy.
In Chile we have 220v outlets, while ya'll have 110v outlets. Before using this adapters you have to make sure that your device says 110~240.
This'll do: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adapter-Converter-American-European/dp/B0078QEY9M/
Something fancier (i have this exact same one): http://www.amazon.com/Insten-Universal-Travel-Charger-Adapter/dp/B000YN01X4/
State-of-the-art travel adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-33117-International-Travel-Adapter/dp/B0002H4YUI/
If you need 220v to 110v conversion you gonna need this baby:
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q
I hope it helps. Cheers.
edit: Is your screen name an Opeth reference?
https://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-200-Converter-International-Blackberry/dp/B000W9DJ1Q?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
$13.49 first result.
So that's a fix for under $20 that you can get through amazon. Interesting....
It doesn't matter if it's 240 volt, you just need something like this to use it. http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376080574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=voltage+converter+220+to+110
After looking online with local stores I ended up just buying off amazon. I'll have to wait about a week or so for delivery but I'll have my dynavap til then. This is what I went with, hopefully it works lol
converter
The subwoofer output is going to be mono, so you only need the one output. Connect it to either speaker-level input on your subwoofer and you should be fine.
If for some reason that doesn't work out (I've never actually used speaker-level inputs on a sub before), the other option would be to use one of these to convert the speaker-level output to an RCA-level and use the RCA input on the subwoofer.
You can if you connect this to the speaker outputs. link
You can use the two together but it would be a bit of a hack. You would have to use something like this PAC line out converter which has compromises. You're much better off getting a dedicated phono stage such as Behringer Microphono.
Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!
Yes, The new amp only has speaker level out.
IF you wanted to go this way
use one of these on the subwoofer out of the new amp
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI35-Adjustable-2-Channel-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407004949&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level
and use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to pug this into the controller, only the low end will go into the controller now
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.
Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.
Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.
Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)
I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.
It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.
Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.
Remote turn on module: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/
LOC converter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/
Receivers like this aren't usually designed to feed power amps other than an active sub-woofer, with it's own built in amp. It's to be expected, for convenience sake that everything needed, including the amplifier is contained in that one box.
Power amps on the other hand are more for people who prefer to build a system using separates. Separate amp(s), separate tuner etc., and using a pre-amp (some have tuners built in and others don't) as a switching station, volume control etc., for all of the separate components.
The only thing I can recommend is to use a speaker to line level converter. Here is an inexpensive model for example of what it is sake.
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451244396&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level
This will connect to the speaker terminals of your receiver instead of speakers and will convert that signal to a line level signal needed to feed your power amp. The receiver will still control the volume etc.
If you are going to use the Fisher STV-893 towers as your front L&Rs for the 5.1 Pioneer VSX-521 system then those are the speaker terminals you want to use the "speaker to line level converter" on.
Speakers:
NHT SuperOne 2.1/ Super Zero 2.1
JBL 530 (if you can find it), if not JBL 230
Martin Logan 15
Amp:
SMSL SA98
AudioSource Amp100vs
Sub:
Martin Logan Dynamo 300 (and other models)
SVS PB/SB 1000
SVS PB/SB 2000
You might need this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/
To use a sub that doesn't have speaker level ins.
Any of these combos would work very well. I would prob. Get the Martin Logan 15s and the AudioSource, and the Dynamo 300 (or one of the SVS if you can afford it).
I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy or build (only if you know your AC wiring) a step-down transformer. The ratio of turns should be 2:1, so the output voltage will be half of the input voltage; 115V. I am assuming since you say 230V that you live in EU/UK/etc, so it will be 115Vac at 50 Hz, not 60 like in the US. Either way, if the amplifier's power supply is a standard linear one, the mains frequency shouldn't matter too much. Be absolutely sure that the fuse is the only thing you damaged when your brother hooked it up to 230V.
edit: Something like [this](http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter- Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E994NKEG6RBTZVPTAHJ) should work. If you want to move away from having an external transformer do all the work, you'll have to do some more research.
I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465745826&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=step+down+power+converter
it works well.
Just remember you have to set it up to convert properly with some jumper on the back. I forgot at first and was lucky the piece of gear didn't fry, though less than 220 is safer than more than 120 in terms of conversion
You can get a converter or just re-wire the plug yourself.
But you also need to check the voltage. UK runs on ~240v, US is 110v. Make sure the range on the speakers says 110-240v or similar. If it just says (220-)240v then you're going to need a transformer instead.
No, kitchen receptacles are not wired that way. You will not get 240v from both hot sides of one receptacle. You need to get a voltage booster such as http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource®-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/sim/B0022QOSDK/2
Edit, missed that your blender was 600 watts so this boost won't be enough, but you get the picture.
Dont do this, you may still fry the box, you need to get a stepdown converter, it will plug into your wall then step down your 220v to 110v, it will also help protect your box a little more if you get a power surge.
Source: multiple deployments with xbox 360
Edit: Here is an example on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE
Use 100's of these at my work. Easiest and best option in my opinion.
Is this what you need?
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=uk+to+us+adaptor&qid=1565657518&s=gateway&sr=8-4
The AC plug will likely be the European one. You may need to buy a US Adaptor or a travel adaptor
I have converter plugs, a couple old apple USB wall chargers, and generic three way charging cables in the drawer in my spare room. International guests are especially grateful.
After 18 months, none have disappeared.
Relatively simple option: get a buck power supply and connect the fans to them.
Something like this for instance.
Note that it has a minimum voltage drop.
If it is a prototype or a "one of a kind" use, i would go for a Buck converter module.
This thing is the most efficient way to do it
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-1Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459311307&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=dc-dc+step+down
not this exact brand, but identical design.
I have found myself needing this board on multiple small solar projects.
> If I DO get the battery, wouldn't I have to let it drain..use the energy in it prior to using solar to fill it up again?
To this question, no to draining. Consider it like a car battery in a car, where it is set for a life of re-maintaining charge off of the alternator/reg. Your 'solar' battery is made for it.
Now, since you bought the 'briefcase' already, I'm not going to reccomend something else, but could if you want.
The reviews don't seem great, understandably. 13 Watt just simply isn't that much, and the convenience isn't worth it, tho the price isn't too bad, comparably. You still have something cool, so not looking to get you down because you shouldn't be. But there are better options, getting cheaper every year. Depending on your usage requirements, you will be the one to find out if it works for you or not.
Sounds like you might have decent setup for someone is simply doing those first things you mentioned. You would want to upgrade if we're talking about the fridge or a vacuum (exceptions being 12v/off-grid styles for these.)
There could be some concerns running the 500 W Inverter off this regulator. I'm pretty sure I used a 300 W inv. off of this same controller box. One night, in a tent with my laptop connected, running audio interface via firewire, the damn thing exploded. I've since discovered it was one of the 12 V regulator (3 pin transistor) chips in it - which makes it an easy fix if you have the component and can solder.
My final point that I will make for you is to look for solutions that come straight off the 12 V Load source from the controller. In other words, bypass the inverter - it sucks too much juice inefficiently for smaller-duty uses such as charging phones. If it's possible to rig up a 12 V laptop cable that you can connect to your source, your system will be completely quiet and maybe 2X as efficient or more! Buy things like this for charging your phone/USB devices, just make sure you diode-protect it or don't switch pos and negative accidentally (I've roasted 2 of them, doing it differently now) Anyway, that's
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466295975&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=12+v+dc+to+5v+dc+converter
Good for you, hope this helps!
Posting as a tinkerer, not necessarily an electronics expert (I'm still in school for that, and only first quarter!).
Just so I'm clear, you are just wanting to use the battery to power the speaker setup, using an MP3 player or something as the source, correct?
This is totally doable, the main item you are missing is some sort of audio amplifier (an mp3 player etc won't drive the speakers). You could build this from scratch, from a kit, or just buy one. From your first sentence, you probably want to buy one, this is one I've had on my Amazon wish list:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3HMEAX7MZ76LD&amp;coliid=IPZIVXD6MGRA9
Assuming the Ruckus batter is 12v, you would be connecting this just like you would to a car. That amplifier just takes RCA for the audio (so just use an adapter cable like you would to connect your MP3 player to your stereo), and then has built in speaker terminals.
You can also wire in something like this so you can power your mp3 player/phone/whatever:
http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395441015&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=12v+to+usb+adapter
For your speakers, I'm not much help there, but I'm figuring you would want something weatherproof so they don't get destroyed (some are made from paper, even a light sprinkle could ruin them pretty quickly).
Anyhow, hope this helps. Usual warnings apply, no warranty, etc etc. :)
Use something like this and large 12v battery.
Autek DC Converter Buck Module 12V convert to 5V usb output power adapter(DCCON-5U-0) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Amnnzb8KPHM58
Do you have any power near your rearview?
My car doesnt have the optional compass/map light/powered rearview, but the power leads are there, so I just tapped into them, and added one of these
Now the camera(G1W-C, in my case) is right next to the mirror, and just powers on/off with the iginition.
The G1W-C isnt meant to run without a connected power source - just long enough to finish writing out to the flash card when power goes away.
I got mine from Foxoffer, and it seemed to be a pretty straightforward transaction.
I ordered one of these and tapped an accessory feed in my overhead console. It powers my OnStar module in the mirror so it's switched with the engine. There was plenty of room to install this and route the USB power cable through the headliner, down the mirror post and to my G1W-C that's mounted behind my rear view mirror.
You need to wire a USB converter in to the switch. Shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sxbs_bbp_recs_sx_w_p_v1?keywords=usb+to+12v+adapter&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BMIVFK8&amp;pd_rd_r=4fc8a9b5-e19c-46db-9815-2254702fd946&amp;pd_rd_w=lCPmS&amp;pd_rd_wg=lJ0Oy&amp;pf_rd_p=635af317-3bc8-48e5-85cd-9c9c6b613408&amp;pf_rd_r=1THN2VB7TREAYZ6ZVWA9&amp;qid=1573006428
I had actually come up with a decent list of stuff needed to do a tablet install in a car using a Windows tablet and a S/PDIF connection to a DSP but I never got around to it due to the cost. Here's what I came up with (I know you're UK based but this stuff should be able to be found across the pond):
Good luck!
EDIT: as far as software goes Kodi would probably be one of the better choices for software to run on Windows for this purpose.
Just two. Simple enough really. Someone posted this voltage converter a while ago, which will make adjusting the stir plate speed much, much simpler than figuring out a potentiometer/resistor combo to find the ideal speed (college circuits courses are failing me). Add in a fuse and an on/off switch, bolt it all together, and it should work out just fine.
They are both 5v cell-phone recharge batteries, got them off amazon on deal for around $10 each. Fully charged at around 4.6v, which under-powered the pi, and shows their (lack of) quality. discharges / recharges of the battery would decrease the amount, so I was scared of it damaging the Pi.
I hooked the batteries into series, hooked the (now ~9v) battery to a $15.00 step-down voltage converter I got from Amazon, and I set the output to 5.2v
The pi pulls the amperage it needs, and it's variable depending on the power use.
I consulted here for pi current draw specs
Raspberry Pi Model B+ 1.8A 600mA/1.2A (switchable) 330mA
I gave it 2A of available current to draw.
The rainbow box in the top right (the under-power symbol from the past) doesn't show up anymore, and it's properly powered.
The batteries are no longer shielded, so it's a possible concern of leakage over long time, and I'm aware of it and not using this for more than a hobby cam :)
Have a look at good old EEVBlog's post on building an electronics lab. If you're young then you're probably going to have a hard time affording stuff like a new oscilloscope and you won't need stuff like function generators for your project, but that video should give you some ideas about tools and parts. Since you're just getting started I recommend buying them as you go along.
The bare essentials though are IMO:
Now here's the tough part - an oscilloscope. For what you want to do (working with the speakers and audio) as well as in general, an oscilloscope would be an absolute gift from the gods and would also teach you a ton, but it's going to be pretty much impossible to find one new for a reasonable price. You can get a surprisingly decent digital scope these days for ~$300, but I know that would have been way too much for me to afford when I was younger. Instead, you might want to try asking around any local electronics factories/repair shops/universities/etc to see if they have any old scopes they want to get rid of. Tell them you're young and trying to get started and that you'd be really happy to take an old scope off their hands (analog is perfectly fine too). Even if it's broken, if you can fix it that'll teach you a lot as well. If you can't find one though I wouldn't worry about it, it's not something you must have and would merely be useful.
I've been using this as a speed controller on my stir plate and have been really happy with it. It costs a little more than buying components and building your own circuit but it's worth it to me.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO
I was working on something very similar yesterday. Yes you will need to power the servo's separately. I was able to get everything from Amazon yesterday. You will need a power supply. I bought a 12V power supply from amazon.
Battery Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RQW5WG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You will also need probably two dc-dc step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXKBJI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can split these with a simple adapter and connect both of your step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNL1YA8/ref=twister_B00NNL1XIG
You will wire the output from one converter to the one side of your breadboard and the other to the otherside. You probably want to separate the power from the pi and your servo's so that you don't get a voltage drop which could damage your pi. There are cheaper solutions to this like using a simple voltage regulator but you would give up 7v in heat. So it is recommended to get an efficient dc converter.
My 2cents
I bought a 12v to 5v step down converter. I can't find the exact one I bought in my amazon history for some reason, but it is similar to this : https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2. I then bought a 12v 10amp 2 pole rocker switch that lit up when powered on from Auto zone and hooked it in between my fusebox and the converter. Then I just turned it on to power the Pi up and then shut down the Pi correctly before powering it off.
I have seen a few tutorials on adding a small battery and creating some sort of auto shutdown script on the PI once the main power is off, if you want something automatic, but didn't look too much into it. I may revisit it once I get everything installed again, hopefully by this weekend. Have my DD components and coaxials coming in this week and I'll be ready to rock and roll!
If you are getting under power symbol it's likely due to a shitty part.
You need a step down convertor... so you can go with something like this and add USB yourself:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2
Or something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2WXUFW/ref=psdc_2407770011_t2_B01N6S2SNM
etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Battery-Disconnect-Auto-Detect/dp/B0147DYUN8
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2
I would avoid a 7805 or any other linear regulator, and get an encapsulated dc-dc converter module. They use switching supplies and are far more efficient / generate far less heat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXKBJI2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1474722933&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=12v+5v+converter
http://imgur.com/a/24BVq
The actual installation could have been better, I was in a hurry but it works lol
It's a wireless charger, so I just plop my phone in the dock and I get a nice little trickle charge. I took the dash cam out the other day, but it basically just went up the A-pillar trim and tucked nicely beneath the top of the windshield frame thing.
I used these guys to step down the 12v from the car to an acceptable 5v
USB has a pretty strict voltage requirement. You'll probably want to start with locating a voltage regulator that will limit the voltage that reaches the charger to 5 volts. Then, I assume the dynamo has a positive and a negative terminal of some sort, simply hook those up to the appropriate inputs on the voltage regulator.
Something like this should do the trick, and provides a USB output.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/
I'm using one of these to power my pi. It's hooked up to the power supply 12V. I wanted the entire printer and octopi setup to be switched through the main power supply switch.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
It should have plenty of juice to power the pi and peripherals. If you cut one of the traces on it, you don't have to press the button to turn it on every time. Read the amazon reviews.
The digital logic design circuits take 3.3-5v I think, and the lab has 5-12v power supply. It's been a while so excuse me if my numbers are off.
You can power a circuit using a battery and some know-how, if you've taken a circuits class or have worked with circuits before. This is the dangerous option because if you don't know what you're doing you could easily blow something out. Check the current your transistors take, use resistors and a multimeter and you can have functioning circuits in your dorm room.
You can also buy one of these. You're using TTL so 0-5V is the range you want, you just have to be careful of the current once again.
You could drop a lot more money and get one of these as well, and make your room really feel like a lab.
Rigging up your own supply is dangerous, be cautious.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG
this one is cheaper, and I believe that other one might not be supported on win 10
Well then there's no simple way to wire both into the same control with audio cables, that I know of.
If you're running Windows, something like this USB controller should work:
https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/
Edit: I'm not recommending that one, it's just the first one I found. I don't have your issue (yet), so I haven't had to solve it myself.
Thanks now I finally understand.
When searching "volume control knob" I've stumbled upon this. Is that what you're looking for?
It's also available without the audio switch but you might want to have that too, at least I'd prefer that extra functionality.
Am I being dense, but wouldn't something like this fix all your problems?
But the mod I would suggest the coolfire ultra, it feels a lot nicer than the TC100, 4000mah and it's within your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-CT-6-Philippines-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MYBLNR9
&#x200B;
Sorry I can't embed text links for some reason but,
First link is what I used for anything requiring a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter, size isn't so bad. Also depending on what country you're from you might not need a voltage adapter overall such as US since the voltage difference between US and Japan are negligible. For the simple adapters any will do (second link is an example)
Why not use a something like this?
That way you don't need to worry about voltages problem.
Bestek universal travel adapter
I traveled to South Africa and just used a simple voltage converter and was fine. I also had my laptop, tablet, phone and camera to charge. But sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry 😊
I have traveled to Ireland, Iceland, UK, Netherlands, Vietnam, Costa Rica, Italy, Dominican Republic, and the Cayman Islands with the travel power adapter listed below. I highly recommend.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542337409&sr=8-4&keywords=travel+power+adapter
Standard USB power is 5 volts. Your camera needs 7.2 volts to operate. I couldn't find anything manufactured to do this so I put together a step up circuit for my T2i for timelapses and it worked quite well. You're at the whim of whatever quirks the bank and transformer has, so it's not without risk (warranty is likely out the window). I used AmazonBasics' old 16,000mAh power bank, now discontinued, but any USB 3.0 bank *should* work. Tried with another bank and it kept going to sleep between exposures. The step up circuit was similar to these. Just solder the input to a usb cable from your bank, and the out to a camera AC adapter. Gonna need a multimeter while you adjust the pot to get the correct voltage. The tough part is packaging it so the solder joints don't come loose from movement. Let me know if you're interested in this approach and I'll dig it out. Been a while since I've been somewhere worth shooting. Again, I don't recommend it if you want to avoid any risk to your camera.
I found a step up voltage converter that fits your needs. USB ports are only specified to output 1 amp at 5 volts. I don't know how much this device will draw to power your fan. As far as the connectors go, just cut them off.
https://www.amazon.com/KUNCAN-Converter-Step-Voltage-2-1mm/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492185690&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=5%2Bto%2B12%2Bvolt%2Bconverter&amp;th=1
Edit: Oh, and be sure that the power supply that is powering the Pi has enough extra power to power this thing
I bought one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E140XWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. I was able to charge my phone, wife's 5x, and her laptop without any issues.
Also, get Google Fi while you're abroad. My wife and I had a pretty good experience with it in Europe and Africa last year.
this one has multiple lines on it. Maybe you could even find a 12v/5v one (so there's no extra stuff floating around) - you have 3 channels on your power supply, so you can run power and ground for each voltage you need (the 24v line runs direct to the supply).
e: another option - you can get two of these, then just use a multimeter to tune them to the voltage you need. As long as your amperage needs don't exceed 3 (most components are well under that).
the ones that fail like you describe are the ones that have voltage steppers and capacitance, this generic USB cable in the post is fine.
You need this. And a high amperage usb power supply
KUNCAN 5ft Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter to Dc 5.5 x 2.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyA.Ab7JFJMHW
American here, currently living in the West Midlands (so no local area advice from me for you re: Richmond/London). Ten years ago my wife and step kids moved to the US, and this year we moved back to the UK. Opinions are my own.
These days, especially with Amazon and streaming TV, you can find pretty much anything you'd want. That said, some of it will be pretty pricey. As a brief example, I make my own jerky with beef from the local butcher's because fuck paying $30-$40 a pound for a tiny package. From both my wife and my experience, you will miss local foods/delicacies that just aren't common/popular. You will also discover new foods you've never had a chance to try before. If one/both of you enjoys cooking, you can easily get by. As an example, you won't find American biscuits in the UK.
It is a different country, and no one can really tell you what to expect, as experiences are different. I found crossing the street to take some getting used to, as I had 30+ years of ingrained lessons telling me to look the wrong way. You seem adaptable and open minded, which will be a good asset.
No. No matter where you go, people hate assholes. As long as neither of you acts like a stereotypical American/American tourist, you'll be fine, and you will make friends. Respect that it's their country. Be careful about expression absolute opinions about politics, especially their politics. Assimilate and adapt where needed, and you will have no issues preserving your American identity as an "ex-pat" who is well-liked.
By and large yes. Anything that charges via USB is good to go, just buy some wall plugs for your cables. For most modern electronics (laptop/desktop/tv/monitor), they are typically rated to handle the full range of voltages (check on the adapter/power supply etc if you're worried). With a desktop you have to flip a switch on the power supply on your tower from 110 to 220, but with everything else, you just need to cut the plug end off the cable and re-wire it to a British fused plug. I would recommend one of these.
Any appliances like hair dryers, things with simple motors, will NOT work unless you run them through a step down voltage adapter like I linked (unless you like electrical fires) so unless they're especially costly, you're probably better off replacing. Lightbulbs are different as well.
soccerfootball?Never if you don't want to. If you are into sports and/or have sporty mates that might be different, but it's not a national religion.
How are you moving your stuff to the UK? We used upakweship.com, and it cost $2,500 door to door to ship two pallets. They'll be able to advise you on needed customs clearance, etc.
I assume your partner's work will be arranging/paying for your visas?
You'll have to figure out pet immigration.
Don't call people Sir or Ma'am as a general rule. It's weird and is more likely to convey insult than offense. If you do slip, people will find it quaint.
Since VAT is applied to products before pricing, instead of having to calculate sales tax on top of your purchase, if you have 5 quid in your pocket, you can buy 5 quid worth of things at the store.
Public transport is generally better than in most major US cities, so that's a major plus.
If you have any follow up questions I'd be happy to answer.
I use this KUNCAN Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter Adapter Black Regulator From Power Bank 6.5ft Am to Dc 5.5*2.1mm.
Run it off a varriety of power pack for hours. I got the electrical department to do some testing and light house dont use close to 2 amp draw, actually the power usage flitters as the beacon pulses.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01ID90K4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492283242&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=5v+usb+to+12v&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Ke4FpPrjL&amp;ref=plSrch
Ditto to this. I've become the unofficial photographer for my cohort and school because of the quality of my camera on my phone.
I also brought a video camera that has stayed in my bag 95% of the time since I've gotten here. It's just easier to carry a phone around rather than a camera and a phone.
Also, a surge protector and battery bank will be lifesavers even if your site has electricity. It might not be reliable. The ones below are great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPHHNDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gS5BCbD71A92S
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nU5BCbRJQE4R3
Also, seasonings and snacks...lots of seasonings and snacks...
Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Step-down-Regulator/dp/B00D3FG5K8/ ($8.40)
Alternatively, if you know the Vf of the LED, you can use a constant voltage switching regulator and set its output to the Vf of the LED. https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ ($10 for 6)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525364823&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dc+dc+buck+converter
Put one in between your fan and power source
Personally I would run 3x18650 for this project. When fully charged they are 4.2 volts. 12.6V will probably be fine for the light and hopefully it will keep on running down to 10V when the batteries are mostly dead.
Otherwise you'll want to use 4x18650 and a cheap buck converter to step the 16V down to 12V.
edit: To clarify don't buy any 18650 batteries from amazon. It is too easy for fakes to be commingled into the product stream. I have a list of legit cells stickied at 18650masterrace.
Hello! I'm currently working on a monitor made from an old screen from an old broken laptop. I've elected not to worry myself with a battery for improved portability (I can do that another time if I want to), but I do want some way to give the screen speakers. However, I also don't want to power those speakers with a separate USB cable and I would prefer to power them using the same cable as the screen: a 12V 3A cable.
For the first version of the speakers, I was going to connect the extracted speakers from the laptop to this 5V powered Amplifier board with a Volume Adjuster and then connect it to this Micro USB-B Breakout Board to enable me to power the speakers using a standard Micro USB-B cable and make the speakers removable in case I want to upgrade them at some point.
My theory for powering them is using a female port for 12V and 3A to take 12V and 3A from the cable and then splitting it into 5V USB output for the speakers and 12V for the control board of the monitor. I was intending on either using two of these Boost Converters, or just one of them and the internals of a Car-USB port.
I'm quite new to electronics though and I'm worried that this won't actually work for some reason that I haven't considered. Could somebody point out any issues they can see with this?
Oh! One thing to consider with the Noctua upgrade: you'll need a buck converter to get from 24 V to 12 V. I bought these and configured it like this. People say you can wire two 12V fans in series instead but you really shouldn't. If you wanted to get fancy with it, you could wire up a PWM controller but I just went ahead and cut off the wires that weren't +12V and 0V.
I had seen this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Where they specify that damage could occur if used at less than 10% load (which at a design load of 1 amp an esp8266 would be pulling ~3-6% of an amp most of the time). Unfortunately I just realized that neither of these are what I need as I forgot that my source is 24 vac rather than vdc. I could rectify it but am trying to avoid an having circuits upon circuits in my design atm. Thanks anyway for pointing that one out. that's good info for future projects.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWSV89D/?coliid=I394XC9VQT7NWZ&amp;colid=168OCS03SC3LT&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This one. The component to the left of the out + terminal (Small rectangular chip) is the failure point. (has SS34 on it)
possibly a diode 40V 3A
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/SS34/SS34FSCT-ND/2094459
I don't see an efficiency rating, but something like this would give you a little leeway in terms of voltage. You set the output via potentiometer and it will maintain that voltage (to a within a certain deviation from your input). Max current 4a so you're set there. Your solar panel is pretty low output too so you may be able to get away with running just the voltage regulator, though I really don't know the implications of that.
Yeah whoops. The one you listed also won't work as it's exclusively a buck converter. That means it can only step down the voltage. I can't quickly find a commercial one that will handle your voltage range. One solution would be to step it up with a boost only converter and then linearly regulate it back down. Here's a boost that could handle it
Great, thanks.
I do believe that the speed of that fan can be reduced by reducing the voltage.
To reduce the voltage: https://us.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/design/power#wiki_reducing_voltage_of_a_power_supply
Buy a ready-made buck converter module:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Step-up-Circuit/dp/B06XWSV89D/ref=pd_cp_263_2/131-4260846-4210816
Would one of these work?
https://www.addicore.com/XL6009E1-Boost-Converter-p/ad456.htm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9179WK/ref=psdc_10967761_t4_B011EBSKK0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EBSKK0
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Step-up/dp/B06XWSV89D/
> If you have a 33V LED module, a boost converter with adjustable constant current output would give you good smooth dimming.
So let's say I get an LED module like this, with a boost converter like this and appropriate heatsinks. Would this setup work?
I imagine the boost converter is PWM, but I don't know at what voltages this LED module is off, on, and in between. For example, if it turns off at 30V, and fully on at 31V, then I have a very small range to work with and it will be a nightmare to set the potentiometer on the fly. How can I know what would work?
oh dang I actually even had that in my other thread, but I guess I must've not copied it!
I have a boost converter like this one, should that do?
To get longer battery life, can I hook a bunch of charged LiPo cells up in parallel? I've heard of something like, unbalanced cells messing each other up.
OK that sounds like a plan, so like one of these little guys:
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519216216&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=buck+converter
adjust it with a screwdriver and a meter to dial it in and solder my wires in place and I should be good, thanks!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E140XWA/
I picked this up back in early 2017 and it's been great. it can handle having many things plugged into it, so you only really need it, plus your regular electronincs/cords.
it's got a fan built into it, which can be good for whitenoise, but also can be annoying if you really like total quiet.
KUNCAN Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter 5ft Am to Dc5.52.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5lKFN3PKiScfq
Here is the battery pack. The pack should put out 5v 3amps per USB unless I've misread, however this product and ones like it tend to convert 5v power from USB to 0.8amp max output at 12v DC, but the fan should require 1.2amp of 12v DC to run on low.
Edit: I located some testing on a similar product in a review that might be helpful:
This seems to do fairly well though I'm unclear what they think their ratings are. I connected this to a 60-watt 5V Anker 6-port USB power strip (which I have verified is better than 5% tolerance 5V at 2.8A on a single port) and began to take measurements.
Max power without total shutting down:
Input 5.08V at 1.9A
Output 10.01V at 818mA
---- Or slightly closer to 12V ----
Input 5.08V at 1.86A
Output 11.33V at 708mA
Max power stable long-term:
Input 5.03V at 1.86A
Output 11.62V at 675mA
Duration - 20 minutes stable, immediately following max-power test
This suggests that this 12V adapter will reasonably provide continuous output at 12V around 670mA with the capability to have higher surge-current but at the cost of dropping more voltage. I was very pleased with how cool it ran - only slightly warm to the touch (113F on the plastic case as measured on IR thermometer). In the event of an overload it does seem to fail gracefully and "shut down" the converter (outputting about 4.5V until reset) on severe overload then "resets" if it is unplugged for a couple minutes.
It already seemed more technical and EEing than I thought I could handle. My computer has additional USB 2.0 ports and I found something that can increase the voltage from 5V to 12V at the cost of Amps and I looked the specs up for the LCD screen (page 6) and it looks as the max draw is under the 1amp max the step up cable can provide. So I will only need to plug one thing into the wall (my laptop cable) instead of two but have the same number of wires. Does that seem like it would work?
This is what I use for my BMPCC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID90K4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I plug this into an Anker battery pack (one that would usually charge a smartphone or tablet) and the converter converts the battery pack's output voltage from 5V to 12V. Basically what this is doing is charging your LP-E6 battery continuously while shooting.
Welp, it is currently working perfectly over just USB using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID90K4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No issues at all yet for 6 hours playtime.
So this thing?
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&amp;keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&amp;qid=1555523573&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&amp;sr=8-6
or
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&amp;keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&amp;qid=1555523573&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&amp;sr=8-4
Are there any other new parts I would need to buy to use it? Sorry for the probably dumb questions but like I said I'm very new to all this.
Naturally i have thought about markets for this as well. The thing is, these supplies are mainly used for Rolleiflex Lenscontrol S camera control systems which are only used on View Cameras (Professional Cameras) in commercial studios. I think the market is rather limited, but why not try?!
Ill get you the board details tonight when i get access.
Could i use a Constant Current 10V board and feed it with a DC/DC converter to keep the input supply? Potentially even a LED Constant Current Driver? Would that be a viable option?
https://www.amazon.de/Einstellbar-Converter-Step-Down-Modul-Stück/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523431336&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dc%2Fdc+converter
this one + a Constant Current board for example?
Thanks again for your amazing efforts, you already helped tremendously.
EDIT: I just opened another of those, to my suprise its completely different... I attach some pics.
https://imgur.com/a/zLjFn
Searched for the MOSFET's etc. Link List:
And another i believe says "M9RB L46A", cant find that tho.
With my limited knowledge it appears to me that its exactly doing what you said.
I guess that just adds more info (?)
Ahhhh right okay. So how comes you suggested the 7805 instead of a buck step down? Would this be fine?
It seems your original post slipped past my radar, but I work with this technology on a daily basis and would love to provide some help.
I'll get on to your product suggestions shortly, but I do need to address your understanding of power injection. The 50@5v or 100@12v "guidelines" are based strictly on standard-spaced bullet/square ws2811 strings; once you change the length/gauge of wire, this all goes out the window. In order to properly take on a project like this, you MUST have a through understanding of voltage drop. There are formulas (and simple online calculators) that will help you figure out the voltage drop over different gauge's of cable vs length. Power injection is simply a way to combat voltage drop.
The ONLY traditional advantage of 5v pixels was the ability to have individual control over each LED in SMD applications such as strip/rings/panels. There are now 12v individually addressable SMD LEDs such as the WS2815.
I would say the only advantage of 5v pixels at this point would be price, as they are more widely available and less in demand, due to the newer 12v chips. However, in reality, this savings will easily be eaten in more expensive (thicker) wiring and PSUs.
It is a little concerning that you state "i'm running at 12 volts," but you spec a 5v WS2812b ring. If you provide much more than 6v to those rings, you will permanently destroy them. You CAN use a small buck converter though, see below.
Here are my thoughts concerning your choice of LED: they are not the same as in the video. Your rings consist of 12 individually addressable 5v LEDs, while the video seems to use a single addressable source per lantern, most likely a 12v or 24v WS2811 "module" in each, similar to these: http://www.vozop.com/index.php/24v-ws2811-led-pixel-module-12leds-smd5050-rgb-light-20-pack.html
I don't think anything would be wrong with using the ring you spec, and if you have the time to program them neatly, then you could get some neat effects that wouldn't be possible with a single source per lantern. However, the work needed to wire these correct and neat would probably not be worth it in the long run.
Running a 5v system this far apart would require prohibitively thick/expensive wire, so in order to make it work, you will want to distribute power at a higher voltage and drop it down to 5v at each ring. This can be done with a simple and cheap buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI You will need to pick up a voltage meter (multimeter) in order to adjust the pots to the correct voltage, but honestly you shouldn't attempt a project like this without one.
The Tees you spec seem useless for your project, as they do not allow the pixel data to daisy chain between Tees. You will want what's known as a 3,4,3 Tee, like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html You should then get the matching 4-pin pigtails for each ring, and solder them to the +, GND, DI and DO, in accordance with the pin out of the Tees. Don't forget to also pick up matching 3-pin pigtails to connect to your controller and extend distances between Tees.
Your power supply should typically be the last piece of the puzzle. Once you decide on the type of LEDs you are using, you will need to calculate their max current draw in full white, then find a power supply (or multiple) that can provide at least that amount of current. I typically like to spec a PSU that is at least 20-40% more output than required; this keeps things cooler and prolongs the life of the PSU.
Please feel free to ask any questions you may have, I realize this is a lot of information. It does seem like you have a good idea as far controllers and software go.
The motors there state they are rated for 1.5-3v, so you are attempting to give them 3 times their maximum rated power. So you have a few options, find a power supply that only gives out 3v OR regulate the voltage from your existing power supply. If you search for "3v buck converter" you will find various devices that can take a higher voltage input and output something lower.
https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3v+buck+converter&qid=1571414941&sr=8-3
something like this for example should do the job to at least get the motors running at a voltage that wont damage them. You could also tune the voltage lower to get a degree of speed control but it would be very rough.
Overall it depends what you really want to do with the motors.
You need one of these.
The back of the tvonly has a vhf connection and has an Rf matching transformer like this.
Set the TV to VHF Channel 3 or 4 and run whatever you want through a demodulator (just like you used to do with your game consoles). You might need a coax to antenna adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/r
You'll need an rf modulator, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W
If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SCJBM46AQKFHHE22KS5W
That tv is really cool, good luck!
Does it have external antenna inputs (probably 2 sets of screws, one for VHF, one for UHF)?
If so you could get a 75 Ohm to 300 Ohm adapter and then a RF Modulator converter.
This way you can feed it composite input without making any internal modifications. Honestly, the modifications sound more fun and would probably have better picture quality, too 😁
Try that twinlead antenna you found on amazon, just connect one U shaped connector to the screw terminal next to FM Ant and the other U shaped connector to the terminal above it.
It won't be optimal because the antenna is 300 ohm and the connectors are for 75 ohm. But it will probably work OK.
You'll be hard pressed to find a matching transformer / balun that will work with this style of connection. Most transformers take a 75 ohm screw on connection on one end and have two 300 ohm leads on the other end (here's a typical example of one). They are the opposite of what you need.
Your connection is actually meant to take 75 ohm coax with no fitting on the end (the other end of the coax is connected to an FM antenna outside or in your attic). The coax is stripped to expose the center conductor - which wraps around the FM Ant screw. Then the braided shield is twisted together and is wrapped around the the screw above the FM Ant screw (and this has to be done so shield doesn't short out to the center conductor). It's a real pain in the ass to do.
You have an odd variation on this receiver. A Google image search shows the FM antenna connection as a PAL/euro style push-on connector rather than two screw terminals.
I just bought a DP-300F in Germany, I was looking through the manual and saw that it only takes 120V as input.
Could I get by with just purchasing one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485076797&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=220+to+120+voltage+converter
Thanks
So would this work then?
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500+watt+converter&amp;qid=1562892085&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
All you need is a transformer to step down voltage.
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA
or this http://www.amazon.com/Rockstone-Power-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B00CLYFNU0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416943374&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=240v+to+120v
Many thanks
Looking at the part lists, I think it is not worth it to source and swap all the individual components!
I may consider the step-down converter indeed. Any particular model/brand to recommend?
There are many variants of this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA
Good enough to use the sewing machine a couple of times a week?
THX
I looked at the manual for your receiver, and it two things make me think it will not work on 240V
You will need a step down transformer like this
If you're going to be investing in hardware anyway, why not invest in something like this.
This is what I use: sorry on my mobile.
Get it before you go. It's 200$ on Amazon.jp.co lol Japan. But fucking love it here. This goofy over priced island nation. (Learn to read katakana and hiragana before you come it will be the biggest help) I still can't read much kanji 10 years later.... You can work on that later.
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524007422&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=japan+transformer
How would something like this fair for a stepdown converter" https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4
Not sure if that's a cheap brand or not, but I guess i should pick one up sooner or later, just for securities sake
That should be fine. I got the other one they sell : https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4.
I can't for the life of me find the exact heater, but this one is pretty close. The main difference being that mine is a 300W.
https://www.amazon.ca/Metro-Japanese-kotatsu-Heater-Warmer/dp/B000BK47A8/ref=pd_sbs_79_13?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000BK47A8&amp;pd_rd_r=87eec204-2e55-11e9-88a1-f3496d10471d&amp;pd_rd_w=3MzX7&amp;pd_rd_wg=3Sa0h&amp;pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&amp;pf_rd_r=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ
And this is the transformer I have. As you can see in the description, it suggests a 3x the wattage transformer.
https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=pd_sim_79_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000PC4JL4&amp;pd_rd_r=9c0a0209-2e55-11e9-bd47-6589b5dff133&amp;pd_rd_w=ADOJQ&amp;pd_rd_wg=9U9u4&amp;pf_rd_p=29a85b27-a36a-4f8d-94ca-61aa962c5f39&amp;pf_rd_r=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04
I'd say you should be more concerned about the Power Adapter, don;t want to break your system by feeding it too much power.
For a video signal, you can just use a normal NES RF Switch and set your TV to channel 95 or 96. This is a problem on modern TVs, as most don't go up that far, but older TVs should have that channel.
If you're looking for an adapter for power, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4
The cheaper ones should work on game systems, and it is a good idea to only give the system the power it was made for. If you plug it right into a US outlet, there shouldn't be too much, but the voltage is 10-20 volts higher here than it is in Japan, so I'd highly recommend getting a power converter. You don't want to accidentally burn up your game system.
Standard NES power will destroy the Famicom so don't use that. You can use the early Sega Genesis adapter and maybe the Master system. A quick search can verify that for you. Pretty sure I did that but I haven't used my Famicom in a bit so I forget.
Many say use a step down converter but I forget if you have to with the Sega adapter or not. I think this one was recommended in here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l2ikybD6YHCJP
You should get a step down transformer for Japanese 100 volt gear - the power draw is 140 watts, so they say to double that for your transformer's peak ability (especially with a power amp). So I'd look at a 300 watt or higher unit.
USA is 120v / 60Hz - Most Japanese gear is for 100v / 60Hz so its not that far off, but far enough I wouldn't be plugging it in directly to a US outlet!
get a step-down converter.
http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4
Would one of these work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PC4JL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not always. Most cheap (1-2 euros if you know where to look) adapters are just physical, they only change the shape of the cable so it can be plugged in. Like this. To convert voltages you'll need something like this, which is more expensive and bulky.
There are two differences between Belgium and the US in terms of electricity:
If it is only for 8 days, I assume the items that you would carry that need a charge is your mobile phone/laptop charger and may be an electric shaver.
Most modern phone/laptop chargers are compatible with a range of voltages that covers both these: they have a "Universal Voltage Range" and are generally marked as 100-220 v, 50-60Hz (Like this) . You can use these in belgium without a voltage converter. But you would need an "adapter" so that you can use the US plug in a Belgian socket. I would suggest one of these. You will be able to find this in a local electronic store as well (Fry's, Best Buy...).
Some items, especially Electric shavers generally do not support both 220 volts and 110 volts. You will need a "converter" to convert between the voltage ranges. Something like this. However note that you may need a higher power (watts) converter if you are planning to use a higher power item (say an electric drill).
I would suggest to avoid the converter altogether if you can (do not use an electric shaver). that way you can avoid carrying the bulky/more expensive converter, which anyway will not be of much use when you come back.
^1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
Edit: Added an image for a universal charger.
I've gone the other way, and am happily using a 50Hz grinder on 60Hz.
For a 110V appliance in the UK you will need a transformer. Something like this should be good enough, but check the power rating of your grinder first. I googled it and got 165Watts but don't take my word for it. Cut the plug of it (the transformer, not the grinder) and fit a UK one, it's safer than using an adaptor.
Next time, get one of these. Wands, both violet and magic, need to be properly stepped down for safety reasons. Also you can get one for like $70 here. Their other stuff is overpriced a bit but the wand itself is legit and not super high priced.
You would need a converter that converts the 220v to 120v, something like this
Great, I
ll send you a pm :) <br /> <br /> Yeah we have a decent variety over here. Your GF would probably still be excited about flavoured papers as they are really uncommon over here and she might not even smoked one yet. Maybe even some special pipe from the US as in the end its a present from her BF and shell be happy about it.You could also consider bringing some munchies/food for her. We dont
t have a lot of the US brands over here but dont worry too much I am sure shell be happy to see you as you are quite far away from each other, distance wise.Haha go to the 90s it was even more relaxed back then.. lol
To build up a bit more on what MoreThanSummerParts said, there is no "simple" plug to do that. You can find outlet adapters, but if the device wasn't made to handle both 115V/230V you will either instantly fry it or blow an internal fuse. Most things aren't made for both voltages, computer power supplies often are however. Devices able to use both are almost always labeled for it, and often include a voltage selection switch.
Here is a link to a step down converter, this will turn 230V into 115V up to 200W. If your device draws more than 200W it should turn off automatically(and not melt). Generally speaking you don't want to use more than 80% of the rated load consistently.
But that's all a bit of a guess. No idea what you're trying to do as you're not specific enough. They are many types of 230V outlets, and likewise 115V.
I'm leaning towards the first option for the converter. However, it only have one output plug, and not the strip like the other one. Since the converter would presumable convert the 230V outlet in Austria to 110V, does this mean I could use plug regular power strip that I've been using in America to it and power my devices through that strip (provided they don't exceed the maximum power of the converter - 200W). Please let me know if this is safe to use.
I'm in the same boat, except I just got a PS4 Pro. So would something [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=K2V701A9Q3DRDEMTJYNM) allow it to work well (and safely) in China?
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451395262&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=simran
This is the one I am using with the Roku 3. Works just fine - tons of power outages where I live and its held up perfectly with a surge protector.
You don't just need a plug, you need a voltage converter. Canada uses 110V AC at 60 Hz. Pakistan uses 230V AC at 50 Hz. So you need a converter that will turn 230V 50Hz Pakistani current into 110V 60Hz for your Canadian devices.
Additionally, this converter also needs to come with a plug that fits into Pakistani wall sockets.
You also need to check how much power draw your appliances have. You mentioned cell phones, laptops and cameras. None of these draw a lot of power, so you could probably make do with a 200 watt converter like this one. It only has one socket, but you could probably buy a 3-way adaptor and run your laptop plus charge two phones at the same time.
There are many other adaptors available at this page so you can look around and see what suits you. Basically, you want one that says "worldwide" and has a C/D type plug which is the standard in Pakistan.
Other than that, just count the wattage. Figure on how many appliances you want to use simultaneously and add up their wattage to determine the power of the converter you will need. Read the reviews and pick one that has good reviews.
Don't plan on running any heavy duty appliances with it, such as clothes irons or blow dryers or anything like that. You will destroy your converter. These things are only meant for small electronics.
I own a transformer and it wasn't cheap but this product linked by someone else in this thread sounds rather interesting.
just used this in India, worked flawlessly. Heavy though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used this step down electric adapter to make sure my charger did not get overloaded.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W9DJ1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
My Samsung Note 4 has WIFIi calling which I used in Vietnam. I did not have to get a sim card because I could always find wifi when I needed to. For instance, I mostly messaged people, posted photos, or called when I was back in my hotel. However buying a sim card on the fly is very easy to do too.
Before moving here I bought a "northern european" adaptor and found that the pins were slightly too wide for the sockets. I could shove them in, but it wasn't a good fit. However, I purchased some specifically for Switzerland and they fit perfectly.
These are the ones I bought and like the best: (all Amazon links) 3 prong adaptors and a multi-plug adaptor. They've both worked well.
And for those who need a step down transformer, I found that this one also works great.
Well unplug the sub from the phono input :)
Then buy a direct box for about 10 dollars at any Best Buy that converts speaker level to line level and wire it in parallel with the left or right channel.
What if you passed it through a line-out converter?
something like this or this?
and will the sound quality take a noticeable hit with such a setup? this record player is really nice but if it's going to sound like garbage i would just consider buying a newer one..
thanks for your help with this!
Such things do exist, but I think it's better to avoid them since it's likely to degrade the sound quality due to unnecessary components in the chain. Also, most of them are made for car audio, where quality standards often aren't as good.
EDIT: Looking at the service manual, it appears the Toshiba has a DIN socket. This is probably a line-level output since I understand that connector was used a lot on European gear. If that's what it is, it can be converted to RCA line-level with a cable like this or this. This is a much better option than using the speaker-level to line-level converter.
You can get a line out converter in order to add an amplifier for the speakers without changing your headunit.
$11 option (2-channel)
$94 option (6-channel, no processing)
JL Cleansweep - $250 with EQ
Audison bit ten - 5 channel with EQ, xover, time correction ~$400-500, better go to a shop to get it installed
For your subs, you can pretty much get any $15-$20 loc and be fine.
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pz3xxb48SVB7F
If you dont want to wait for shipping. Im sure your local electronics or car audio installation shop has one. Best buy carrries some too, if that's by you.
Here are a couple more that accomplish the same thing, reducing High Speaker Level down to Low Line Level signal -
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/
https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-LOC90-Line-Output-Converter/dp/B00YEU8T96/
Connect the wires to the speaker terminals and the RCA outs to the Active Speakers.
I bought one of these. My concern is that the mono output of the PA will cause issues. Im using these so I can plug in a stereo 3.5mm.
I think I'm gonna get this one
Yes, it will work.
I used to run a setup like this when I was in highschool. (Not disparaging you, it was pretty cool)
I actually used a DC power amp with the sub in my bedroom.
The easiest way to use a dc car headunit (radio) with a home theater receiver is to wire up a computer power supply like this.
Basically, you will take a power supply and strip the leads to connect to your car headunit. Make sure that this headunit has RCA outs, or you might end up having to use one of these. Using one of these will almost surely degrade your audio signals, but if you're streaming over bluetooth, it won't matter much anyways.
Warning: if you don't do your research AND properly terminate your exposed leads on both the headunit and convertor, you can start a fire.
As far as the other sources such as tv, xbox, ect, they will all be routed through your receiver, and then to whatever other speakers you have hooked up.
EDIT: something like this
bluetooth receiver might be more well-suited to your needs.
48v 2 channel amp
Subwoofer amp
8" weatherproof coaxials
Subwoofer
Head Unit
line out converter
Head unit shield
Need to be pretty handy for this setup, but it isn't anything crazy. The amplifiers will power on when you put juice to them so you'll need a switch. You can run off of the main batteries with these amps, and the head unit off of the 12v supply. Those coaxials are meant for wakeboard speakers... I would do 4 per side, depending on how loud you really want to be and how much space you have available. Having a real head unit will make sure the signal has enough signal strength to run the 2 channel, and the sub amp will be fed by rca right from the head unit.
Sub will need a box, might look for one that is sprayed with bed liner for weather resistance.
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5xpmzbSC3K9V8
I bought this line out converter https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537158568&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sni35
Would that fix that problem? I'm looking to tap into the wires that come right out of the subwoofer, the ones that are in the trunk.
the amp they suggested is fine, you could just get the same stuff off the web for super cheap
4 gauge amp kit - $32.48
line out converter - $13.02
SAE-1000D - $314.99
ported prefab - $49.99
that puts my amazon cart total at $411.39 tax included, and if you didnt want to do the amp install then buy your stuff online then take that amp/amp kit/loc to a shop and pay them to install it.
However, I would recommend a custom box rather than the prefab I recommended as you would get a lot lower bass.
You can do that but maybe use a high to line level converter (PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W) first? Don't want to blow the active sub with too much voltage to line in.
This sort of thing exists if it's helpful - just make sure it can handle whatever power you plan to pump into it. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/
What are the advantages of OFC? Will it sound better/last longer, etc.?
Also, could I get away this this cheap Line out converter, or should I get something better? Thank you for being so much help!
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=pd_bxgy_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001EAWS3W&amp;pd_rd_r=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08&amp;pd_rd_w=gL0hJ&amp;pd_rd_wg=gFhz3&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08
Don't give up so fast. If you're feeling adventurous, try buying a line-out converter. Typically these are used for car stereo systems. Not sure how they will affect the impedance of the speakers and I can't guarantee that they won't blow your amp, but logically it's possible.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W or something else like it
If keeping the remote control is a priority, some people have had success with line level converters. Other option is to use the tape output in conjunction with a pot in a box like one of these, but you will lose remote volume capability.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00F0YASQ2&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=C8MYQ7T95FXXAXTM1PS3
It's that one. Just go with it and use RCA cables you think?
Perfect, thanks! This is the back of my sub, so there are line-level outputs. Where I messed up is I tried to connect straight RCA cables from the line out to the sub without using a Y-splitter, which of course didn't work. Then I bought this guy and connected it to my speaker outputs, and then ran the same RCA cable from that to my sub, which also didn't work. Maybe I did it wrong or I got a bad converter? Either way I'll experiment with the Y-splitter, one has got to work. If not maybe my sub is defective and I'll get in contact with Best Buy who I got the sub from as open box.
Or just get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/
I bought this off of amazon and it works ok. I don't use it as much as I was using it in Turkey but haven't had problems so far (almost one year later).
The shape of the plug is different because the receiver uses 220/240 volts instead of the United States standard 110 volts, so you can't just get an adapter to plug it into a standard outlet. Assuming you don't want to rewire your wall outlet to put out 220 volts, you'd have to use some form of step up transformer like this to get the proper voltage.
I am buying a couple 220V/240V essential oil diffusers, pretty small, you think this will work?
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/
Where is this shit made? If Europe you need a step up converter. Anyway play safe and if you are unsure just get a converter. Check the power draw and typically you can use a power strip to get more outlets. I use a US step down to Japanese for some Japanese arcade cabs and step up for Amiga cd32. All else fails rtfm, they usually have power specs.
Something like this is nice to have around
https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK
you can try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496634862&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=POWER+CONVERTER
but you really need to do some research on the specific power needs of your slow cooker and the Chinese power grid to know specifically what you need... or buy on from a country that uses 220.
-Chinese power grid facts 220V 50Hz
-US Power grid facts 120V 60Hz
-Slow cooker need to knows(look for a sticker with numbers like 120V ~ 60Hz ~ 275W
-voltage range covered - this is the number or number range followed buy the V for those that dont know
-Frequency range covered - this is the Hz number or number range - i am unsure what effect using a cooker meant only for 60Hz on 50Hz will have but it will most likely not heat correctly or track time correctly
-Wattage of the cooker - this is the number followed by the W - very important if you get a converter as it needs to be able to handle around 50% more then the wattage of the cooker or you can overload the converter
Yeah, the Xbox One power supply is rated for 100-120V or 220-240V so you can't just plug it straight into the wall. Also, since it draws quite a bit of power, you can't just use any "travel power converters" either, because you will blow a fuse. Notice, I said CONVERTER and not adapter.
So in short you have two options:
a) buy a power converter (also known as a transformer) that is adequate. I use this one, but I go in reverse i.e. US Xbox One in a European country:
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/
b) Just buy a US power supply for the Xbox One. It can be ordered through Xbox support (also on the website I believe) and you can also try GameStop!
I recommend to buy a US power supply instead of the converter as it is loud, bulky and heavy. I only got it, because at the time in parts of Europe where I was, the Xbox One hadn't released, which means no power supply available.
Also of note, is in my excitement I completely forgot about the voltage difference and plug it into the wall. Needless to say, the whole house tripped a fuse, and the room smelled funky. The power supply had to be replaced, and Amazon was nice enough to exchange it free of charge, but I had to wait an excruciating month!
Most home theater devices, receivers especially, are NOT dual voltage. I am in the US military and am currently overseas so dual voltage electronics are very important to me. I found an international version of Yamaha's Aventege series, called the RX-V2067 and it has a nice little voltage selector switch. Back to your question, it is going to be very hard to find a dual voltage home theater system for $400. My solution to your issue: just buy a transformer (like this one).
anyways i placed an order for this converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022QOSDK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AU5MW0P13QZ5V
edit:got an answer from thrustmaster:
Regarding your VG T300 Alcantara Ed..
Thank you for reaching Thrustmaster Technical Support.
In this case, all you need is a new power cable, since the wheel has an internal power supply that switches from 220 to 110 and vice-versa automatically.
The price for a new EU 220V power cable is: 22.60€ (EUR) with shipping included.
so i am really confused :(
Whatever drive you get, if you are getting a 2.5" and need it to fit in your iMac make sure you buy a Icy Box, other adaptors or brackets will mean that your connectors are too far from the drive or the screw holes and mounting points won't match up. The Icy Box will make sure its identical to a 3.5" drive.
Source: Having to open my computer up 3 times to try and get the right fit! Not fun!
We always used these in the datacenter I was in:
ICY DOCK 2.5" to 3.5" SAS / SATA HDD & SSD Converter
This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.
>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&amp;hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.
That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.
Yes. I've done it. My 2008 Mac Pro is still a monster of a machine! I got an Icy Dock which lets you mount a 2.5 inch drive in the Mac Pro's hard drive bays.
http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE
Once you've got an SSD, just clone (Carbon Copy Cloner) your existing boot drive to the SSD and then swap the drive or put the SSD in one of the three other bays.
As for SSD choice, I'll defer to the other more knowledgeable redditors about that. :)
A ton of zip ties or velcro straps and two 2.5 to 3.5 converters so you can place it in those 3.5" drive bays. If you don't have enough slack to reroute the cables around the back, get some Silverstone Tek extension cables.
http://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Extension-Motherboard-Connector-PP07-MBBR/dp/B00HWQUKCS
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-EPS8BR/dp/B00H45K58Q
Neither, I use ICY DOCK and like devices, you can get Icy Dock for single SSD/HDD to multiple drives. I use it to change my boot drive to transferring data from my PC to laptop and so on. So the 2.5" part is to insert a boot SSD (Window or a Linux distribution OS) and the 3.5" I use to transfer data or back it up to a 6T HDD.
For my desktop I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJ8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5-25in-Trayless-Mobile-3-5in/dp/B000KS8S9W/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/145-7509564-3873745?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KS8S9W&pd_rd_r=eef1512f-6959-4fde-9177-ce62c8768090&pd_rd_w=RY63p&pd_rd_wg=xKSNf&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ&psc=1&refRID=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ that needs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 if I want to use a 2.5" drive to transfer info.
For my laptop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1QLJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so I don't have a DVD any more but any hot swap SSD port now. :-) Or press my keys to select a boot device and boot another OS.
Icy Dock does offer this same technology https://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=245, just an idea, a flexible idea to me. Win on one NVMe SSD, a Linux distro on an other NVMe SSD, and have as many as you want this way, I do.
They don't come in the 3.5" size, so you need to buy an adapter if you want to install them in the Mac Pro tower. I bought the Icy Dock adapter, and it worked perfectly.
The performance change is absolutely greater than anything else you can do. Boot times are on the order of 5-10 seconds—under 30s to logged in and ready. Software upgrades, compiling, opening and closing big files are practically instantaneous. Adobe PhotoShop CS 5.5 starts in 3-4 seconds. An SSD can often outperform the SATA interface, while a HDD can't even saturate it when used optimally.
You need to install Trim Enabler, which is (legally) free for what matters. Don't listen to others who say the drive(s) have "garbage collection"—it's not the same thing, and only enabling TRIM will guarantee preserving the long-term performance of the SSD. Once you install TE, go into settings and enable "Check for Trim support on boot". This ensures TRIM doesn't get disabled during system updates!
As far as models, if you plan on being a heavy data user, I still recommend the Samsung 840 Pro (must be Pro), the technology is better for power users. On the other hand, I installed a Crucial MX100 model in two laptops recently. They perform great, and are significantly cheaper. I haven't had them as long as the 840.
The process I used for the Mac Pro was to install the OS clean, then point it at my older install. Honestly, I wouldn't do that again. It was slow and more error-prone.
Instead, for the laptops, I used CarbonCopyCloner, and simply clone the OS to a freshly formatted SSD (note: format as Mac Extended (Journaled)). It took a lot less time, and didn't seem to have any negative side effects. Note: the first time you reboot, the OS needs to rebuild all the caches, and Spotlight needs to reindex everything, so it's a bit slower than you'd expect. Let it run for a while or overnight, then you'll see the true performance.
Finally, since I have room for many drives, I keep a spare drive in the computer just for the daily temporary stuff. I actually symlinked my Downloads folder to the spare drive, and I moved all my virtual machines there as well. This reduces wear-and-tear on the SSD, since those are usually temporary files that are used once and then deleted, or big files that I don't really care about. I keep my music and videos there, as well.
I recently put one of these adapters in my 2950 to house my 120GB SSD. Works well.
It's cheap construction, but since I won't be swapping it out frequently, I think it will be fine. Apparently they sell a nicer version (i.e., metal) for like 2x the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I ultimately bought. So far it's working great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
The charger does support 100-240v, so he could probably also just buy an adapter like this instead of having to get a different charger
Comprate uno alla, los venden en Radio Shack o cualquier store de electronica. Salen entre 10 y 20 dolares. Yo tengo uno de estos y funciona perfecto:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_198_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31GxIZe2bfL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL200_SR160%2C200_&amp;refRID=067SD7MJXVYKGMMMX55T
I am building a proof-of-concept/prototype at the moment. Once I cobble it all together and confirm that it works, I will have to pay someone to design everything into a single PCB.
I was leaning towards this solution for the prototype:
12V 6A AC Adpater
LM2596 Buck Converter
For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.
I use a 2kw Honda generator for emergency charging through a 20amp marine battery charger and for running the large power tools. I built a DC generator for every day charging using a Harbor Freight gas engine and a 40 amp car alternator. I have two Walmart deep cycle marine batteries which are adequate but not very long life, eventually I'll replace them with four Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. It's critically important not to discharge them more than 50% nor to let them sit partially charged any longer than absolutely necessary. To keep up on charge state I very highly recommend a charge monitor like this.
I have not built my solar system yet but will be using two to three 250 watt panels with a midnight solar MPP charge controller. I use very little AC power so a small Xantrex 600 watt sine wave inverter is sufficient.
I am wiring my cabin with two AC circuits and a few DC outlets, all lighting will be DC LEDs (as in these with small dc/dc power converter boards, I put eight of these in my boat and have two in the camper for the time being, lots of light and only 90ma ea). I haven't decided how much AC I'll be using but I've used DC exclusively for the last year in my 22' camper as I get my site ready to build. I am using an RV fridge that runs on propane and a Mr Heater 18kbtu propane heater, I pay about $25 a month for propane and that will balance out in summer when the fridge takes more to cool and the heater isn't used.
I do not see the need for large inverters unless you come across one used that also contains a large marine (3-stage) battery charger - if I had one I wouldn't use the DC generator as much. I don't run microwaves or electric appliances, just a small tv and small loads that are quick to charge like a Nintendo DS, iPhone, mp3 player and tiny speaker system.
Passive cooling with shade trees and wood fired heating are best if you're off grid. Controlling demand is easy once you get used to it, you do not need a big inverter and in fact they waste a lot of power when they're searching for a load so you're better off with small ones.
Oh and wire to hook it all up is expensive, I use this which is a fraction of the cost of marine stores, it's welding cable so it's practically burn proof and it's extremely flexible. You just need a big hot torch to solder lugs on it because the bare copper conducts the heat away quicker than tinned wire does.
Good luck.
Edit - these Astroenergy panels are what I'm considering, this vendor seems to have good prices at least on panels.
I'm not sure if I completely understand the zener regulators but it seems to me as though the power consumption of simple one is going to be wildly high with such a large difference between input and output voltages.
Perhaps if I can ensure the voltage does not jump too high and the current demands are low enough one of these switching regulators will work well: https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-swadj3
Too bad they're fairly pricey.
Edit: Better yet something like this: http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO
Yea, I'll give that a try.
I just checked out your buck converter (I think it's this one) and it says the max current output is 3A. Odd (but good for you :D ) that you're not running into any problems.
I'm assuming that the light bar is hardwired into the vehicle, so a good place to start would be to figure out what voltage its operating at, then look up relays. You can use the zero to control a relay to do the switching for you, but you'd also have to add blue-tooth capabilities to your zero in order to remotely control it.
There are also relays that have blue-tooth built in.
Both the zero and blue-tooth relay will need to be powered with 5v from somewhere. If you're going to do that from your vehicles 12v system (making assumptions again), you'll need to look into a step down power converter. Or some kind of battery pack that will last you all day.
All of these things will require at a minimum a voltage meter for probing your power inputs and outputs (don't want to fry anything) and basic soldering skills / equipment.
edit: words
For powering from the 7.5v, I used a buck converter from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-1Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO
I ordered a few, they're really simple to use, just solder onto the input voltage holes, plug in the PSone adapter, and with a multimeter attached to the output voltage holes, adjust the little screw on top of the blue box until you read ~5VDC.
The video pinout is here: http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/psxav.htm
Bear in mind: it's possible to output a full component video signal to the PSone screen if you use an HDMI to component video converter. If you don't want a separate HDMI output then that might be a good way to go. Otherwise, wire the video to pin 6 and solder the screen's board the way I did to get the screen to show video.
I'll make another post for the PSX controller. The whole article for setting up the GPIO is very bad. It's also buggy...I'll get into that.
Aliexpress - Car Charger DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W with Micro USB Cable
Amazon - RioRand LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V (1Pcs-LM2596)
You could always do the opposite and remove the battery, then power with something like a LM2596 DC-DC Module, something like:
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-1Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO
I did that on one of my 10 inch tablets, and mounted the tablet to a monitor swing arm, works perfect, just adjust the LM2596 DC-DC Module to what your battery was putting out.
On my 10 inch tablet I had the LM2596 DC-DC Module set to 5v, and ran another 5v+ wire from the LM2596 DC-DC converter to the USB connector, I ran this extra wire so the tablet believes the battery is charging, if not the tablet will try and shutdown because it thinks your battery is draining.
Assuming the by RAW port, you mean the VIN port, you're already likely using a 7805 that apparently has a current limit of 200mA. Assuming you're driving the LEDs directly from digital pins, using I = V/R you can roughly calculate the current you're consuming, where V is 5, and R is the value of the resistor in series with the LED. This will calculate the current consumption for each LED. Note that while the total current consumption shouldn't exceed 200mA, the total current consumption per pin shouldn't exceed 20mA. In fact, for the pro-micro, the recommended per pin limit is 10mA.
If you need to drive some additional current, the solution is to isolate the signal from driving the LEDs. Using a darlington array (like a ULN2003) is a simple solution. Then upgrade the dc supply with a buck regulator like this, and adjust the output to 5V(or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version) , and connect the output directly to the Arduino's 5V rail (or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version).
I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter.
BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.
Thanks
LM2596 3 amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
pot adjustable buck converters, for projects that have a constant power source, they work great.
but like i said i haven't tested them with batteries at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y3OT6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The plan is to have the whole setup being run from one or two 12v dry cells, the kind that are used in UPS back-up systems.
I can pretty easily get power to the relay boards from a separate 5v source like this and I'll just get a 2nd one for pi itself.
Thanks for your input!
Something like this may be the easiest.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12v-to-5v-usbPhysics doesn't care what you have on hand, 10W+ from USB just isn't going to happen.
These aren't too big and SLA is by far the cheapest route. It would run the Pi and screen for hours on a charge.
Run the Pi on something like this.
I'd wire it to a lighter plug and then have a socket connected to the battery, that way you could just unplug it and plug it into the car.
From what I've seen, Mausberry has sold out of the car power supply switches. I get the feeling they've moved onto new stuff and won't be making more of them, but I'd be okay with being wrong about that.
I have that same TFT touchscreen thing, and am looking to put it together in my car as well (though I may use an /r/ODroid C1 instead of an RPi, but that's another discussion).
From a different online discussion of Pi Carputers (don't have a link handy, if I find it, I'll edit it in later), I found a 12V to 5V USB power converter (here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/) which can provide always-on or switched power.
There are several discussions of using GPIO to cue the RPi to gracefully shut itself off, especially on StackExchange (http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/). There's just a lot of homework to do here.
I got this one with dual female usb cables and ran two usb male to mini usb male cables to power both cameras from the single inverter.
I got this (it used to ship with prime) 12v-5v inverter with a single female usb cable to provide power for my Nexus 7 install—whenever I get around to that.
If you get an inverter with dual usb cables, it splits the power output between the two, but if you get one with a single usb cable, you'll get the full power of the inverter to your device.
The dashcams don't need much power to run, but the Nexus 7 will need all that it can get to stay charged while multitasking.
And speaking of...
> UEL headers
Look what just showed up at my door today! http://i.imgur.com/AvzIAhd.jpg
Yes, you can split the 12v DC rail from the screen and downvolt one of them to 5v using something like this and run that to USB. I was working on doing just this with mine but instead opted for a battery pack that had the needed 5v2.1a USB out and a 12vDC out on one 20000mAh battery unit to make it portable.
I really like my Mobius Action cam (Wide angle). It's really easy once it is set up, and I would consider it to be a easy-meduim install for someone who is handy with car wiring. This is a post i made awhile ago on here with some info:
You can see day and night examples from mine at these links: Day / Night
also, here is a recent post on /r/JusticePorn where the road rager behind me crashes at the end: Link
I would consider adhesive mounts. Worst case, you can get residue off windows with some solvent. It's not easier, but it's not an issue if you want it up all the time.
PM me with any questions if you want.
I am talking about my rear setup, but its the same for the front:
Pictures of the install: Link (if you have RES and the last pic is rotated incorrectly, just click the picture)
It is a Mobius ActionCam: Link
To install, I powered it by tapping the radio fuse and running the positive wire back to the rear seat under the door sills. I connected it to this 12V DC to USB converter: Link
I found the correctly angled MiniUSB cable and ran it up to the window: Link
I got an adhesive mount because I didn't want it to ever fall off in the heat like some suction cups can. Also, the defroster lines on the window would prevent a suction. I got the "CH-358" from this page: Link
There are also 2 pictures of the front camera in that album. It was installed in roughly the same manner, but I used a different angled USB cable and a lower profile adhesive mount.
I built my own setup. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10469048_802616879762394_7511436800829330098_n.jpg
I have since set it up so that I can use anything 4-40v and charges at 3 amps max.
buck power converter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
solar panels
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBT8A14/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
rechargeable batteries
5 of these
http://www.amazon.com/Exell-5000mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-Button/dp/B00JPPLJTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405218205&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1.2v+rechargeable+d+batteries
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-D-Cell-Linkable-Battery-Holder-D-Set-of-5-/181205540311?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item2a30b11dd7
This setup has allowed me to go all day. I'm sure there are areas where this could be improved and i'm open to anything someone smarter knows. I have walked and biked around all day with no issues. Normally I will see a 3% drop every 1hr of play. This also actively charges the battery pack. I'm still trying to up my amperage so if someone can tell me how to do that let me know
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYTEHQO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_IOzKxbCB2Y7KS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C93Z8JY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KPzKxbWHW3VRC
This is the one I have. Avoid if possible. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
you are going to be pushing it with this unit. Without no load, the 24V tranformer of an HVAC system can output almost 29V. It is designed to drop down to the 24V range under full load. You could see spikes of almost 39Vdc after rectification in some cases. That might be too much for this guy. I had the same dilemma as you and went with this unit that can accept up to 40V Dc instead. I have had 0 problems with these in my circuit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This unit is nice because it will show you the input voltage and output voltage without having to break out the volt meter.
Today I got a configurable regulator, wireless adapter, and wireless pigtails so I could untether my Galileo.
Now it's operating off a 2s 7.6v lipo and ready to be the new brain of my good old tracked robot. The antennas came from an old router.
Ok, so something like this? 12v input into cigarette port connect to 12v input of module and 12v output of module connect to 12v neutral wire coming from cigarette port? Then 5v output on module goes to dashcam wire?
edit*
Ah makes sense, thanks for all the info!
So from a full day of research here's what I'm thinking:
2M of RBGW SK6812
Splitting them into 12 - 6 inch long strips. (Probably only use 6-8 but figured better to have more than not enough)
Battery power through 7.5A fuse (the strip is rated at 43W/m at 5V the next fuse is 10A so figured go lower to be safer?) and relay/switch tapped to ACC line run through 12v step down to 5v through ALITOVE bluetooth controller into wago connectors with diodes going to each strip
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B079ZX7LY3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539729680&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rgbw%2Bsk6812&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Female-Connector-WS2812B-SK6812-RGBW/dp/B071H5XCN5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539737420&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=LED+connector+3+pin
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539736197&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=12v+step+down+to+5v
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Controller-SK6812-RGBW-Programmable/dp/B07G77YD9L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539734109&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=12v++SK6812
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107SYYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you've got a good power supply the pi will be able to run the arduino. You'll still need a power supply for your stepper. If done properly you could use a 12V to 5V step down converter and run the entire thing from the 12V supply.
If you're this far into a project already why are you just now asking about power requirements? This should have been the very first thing you addressed.
Get a 12v -> 5v inverter and connect it to the cigarette lighter port (hack an already existing one?). It'll power up and down with car ignition. Make it automatically join your home wifi network, and sync folders when it joins that network, and expect it'll do that every time you pull into the garage, and let it idle for a minute to ensure upload has completed.
Oh, that part's not too difficult. You could get a 12v power supply, and step that down to 5v for the Pi. Use the 12v for the LEDs and the 5v for the Pi (just cut up a micro usb cable and solder the wires to the power supply output, easy to find how-tos for that online) . Then use the Pi to drive 3 transistors (Google 'raspberry Pi led transistor' for that). The transistors act like switches - controlled by the Pi but with the power coming from the 12v supply.
Does that make sense?
Edit: here's one option for your step down convertor.
Here's what I think I've settled on - Thoughts?
Magic Home RGB controller - Flash with ESPHome
BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 - 12v, 60led per meter, individually addressable.
Power Supply - 12v, 5a, 60w - Do I need to step this down to power the Magic Home with 5v, and the strip qith 12v, or can the MAgic Home handle 12v?
Step-Down - If I do need to step down.
You need a DC-DC converter. They're pretty cheap on Amazon. Then just run the output from that to the 5V power pins on the GPIO connector on the rpi. The downside of doing it this way is that you'll have to make sure you do an ordered shutdown of the raspberry pi if you power things off. They were too cheap to put a PMU chip on the raspberry pi.
It'll work fine for Octoprint. I use smaller Nanopi Neo boards without issue. Don't do slicing on it though.
If you have the solar charging bit worked out you can buy 12v to 5v converters (example https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501760134&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=12v+to+5v+converter or theres lots of others). Otherwise you can buy the complete solar usb powerbank kind of thing. Be warned though- I bought one to power my Wemos project but the current drain from the Wemos is not sufficient to keep the powerbank activated so it runs for a minute or so then shuts off :-(
Info | Details
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Amazon Product | SMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 5v/3a Power Supply Module
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.
I like using 12V switch mode PSU units for my gadgets. They're cheaper and expandable for other purposes. The PI is 5V if I'm not mistaken. You'd need to step the voltage down to 5V.
Check out these links:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/5v-power-supply
https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/7913/powering-a-pi-from-12v
Before my electric bill came today I was thinking of the following semi-off grid setup:
-----[solar system]-----
solar panel(s)
charge controller
battery(s)
-----[mining rig]-----
Raspberry Pi
Zeusminer Blizzard
-----[electrical stuff]-----
Samlex power supply
PowerSwitch Tail II relay
Raspberry Pi lamp timer circuit
buck converter
-----[The Plan]-----
Plug the Samlex into the PowerSwitch-Tail and PowerSwitch-Tail into wall. Hook the solar system battery up to the Samlex's battery backup terminals. Hook the Blizzard and Raspberry Pi up to the Samlex's 12v output (use buck converter to step the 12v down to 5v for the Pi). Finally, use a cron job on the Raspberry Pi to control the PowerSwitch-Tail. In the morning the Pi would use the 'lamp timer' circuit to open the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the solar system battery. During the night the Pi would close the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the grid. The Pi would also restart cgminer to mine to different addresses depending on which power source was being used. I would setup the cron job based on the capacity of the solar system. More panels and batteries would mean the system would run longer off of the solar system before switching back over to grid power. I think it would have worked, but not sure. I'm pretty new at this stuff.
edit: formatting
Thanks, yeh that was the plan - to use the battery as a sort of regulator? as it has a consistent output so a phone connected to it would be fine. Sorry for any ignorance - new to electronics, but whats the inverter?
Is something like this what I need? http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/
> adding an LCD volt meter directly to the battery so i can see the voltage,
Why? It's gonna read 12V. It would be a lot easier to write "12V" on a sticker and slap it on there, and it would do the same job.
But if you really want to it would be pretty easy to do. You can buy LCD voltmeter panels; they are really common in process engineering. Most will measure up to 600 V or so.
> where a guy used a car charger adapter thing to accomplish this
There's a 12V to 5V converter built into that. They are pretty small, so they fit in there. That's what I meant when I said you can buy one in the grocery store. You can also get the naked chip. In fact I bought this last month and it's worked great. Turns any voltage from 8 to 22 volts into a USB charging port. The same guy also sells this which seems to be tailor made for you.
> I also need to determine the best AWG size that will easily handle any potential loads
AWG refers to the size of the conductor (the copper). The AWG size is dependent on the current you need to handle, not the voltage. A wire will also have a voltage rating, which refers to the size of the insulator around the copper. For reading a voltage (any voltage) you will have next to no current, so the smallest AWG you can find will work, as long as the insulation is sufficient.
24 V is a tiny amount of voltage; I think any wire you find will be able to handle that. Standard wires are generally rated to 400V at least, often 600.
> I think for current I would need to get into series between the battery and the UPS circuits?
Yes, that's right.
Here is one that goes up to 40 volts
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB
Looks like a MB102 power supply to me, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484871195&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Power+Supply+MB102
JBtek Breadboard Power Supply Module 3.3V/5V for Arduino Board Solderless Breadboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fR4vDb9M2V911
You will get it way cheaper on Ali.
I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
Should that work?
Hey Chrwei, the ACDC is the actual cord. The breadboard one is a module that i was connecting the cord to. It looks like the one in this link: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
> https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah-esp8266-breakout/overview
I have the exact board, and I also had issues powering it from a USB port. I'm currently using this power supply and have had 0 issues so far. I highly recommend a supply like this because it easily plugs into a solderless breadboard and can supply both 3.3v and 5v simultaneously. I combined it with this AC adapter. It's 9v, but the voltage regulators on the power supply will burn off the extra voltage as heat.
So now you can omit the voltage wire from the FTDI chip, but you still need a ground wire to go from the FTDI chip to the breadboard's ground.
Also, buy a multimeter if you don't already have one.
Here's an even cheaper one, though I have no idea how the quality are for any of these kinds of knobs.
There are cheaper alternatives
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_GdtFybV0BVK9A
Buy them from someone who has a set they're not using. They don't sell them separately. But they're not worth tracking down really, there are usually better options available... The Vortex PBT doubleshot backlits are a real upgrade. But they're out of stock everywhere unless you like white.
And that brings me to why I would not recommend a K70. For one, you have to run their software 24/7 for any lighting functionality or macros. If you use multiple computers, your settings also won't travel with the keyboard. Secondly, don't buy a K70 if you don't like the caps, they're rather hard to find good replacements for.
The MasterKeys has the most sensible media key shortcuts I've ever used, can fit the vast majority of keycaps, and I would add a DROK volume knob if you really feel like you need that.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/
I use this for my volume.
If my keyboard had dedicated I'm not even sure I'd use it with this thing around.
Yes, there are devices that do that.
Get one of these friend, much better than any keyboard that has a volume knob.
Would something like this pair well with a Zolt? https://www.amazon.com/Zolt-Portable-Laptop-Charger-Plus/dp/B06X91V6SD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510672636&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Zolt
I'm using the zolt paired with something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ . If possible, I'd like to slim down a bit. Not sure if it's worth spending the extra money on this and it is nice have two usb ports on my universal charger - otherwise I'd always have to plug the zolt in. But hey, if it means less weight...
Also wondering if I'd need to worry about voltage? I just have a camera battery charger, phone, and laptop - also a little powerbank.
I'm gonna add some thoughts here. I'm also gonna quote from some of your other comments and add it to this thread.
>I need to get an international phone plan
First make sure your phone is unlocked. If you bought it straight from Apple/Samsung/LG/etc it will be. If it's locked to your carrier call and have them unlock it. Then when you get to Italy buy a SIM card from a local company (Like Vodaphone). There is almost always kiosks in the airport for this sort of thing. Here's some more information on it. (http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Italy). You'll have a local phone number, and access to however much data you purchased for your time there. Once home just slap your old SIM card in and carry on!
>a proper charger for my phone
Here you go. This one served me well on 3 continents so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ
>call my credit card companies and let them know I will be in a different country so my card doesn't get shut down
Maybe? I'd suggest getting yourself one of these.
http://www.cashpassport.com/1/global-landing-page/
Pre-load it with your euro's and avoid having to pay transaction fees on your current credit card. It's accepted anywhere Mastercard is (so almost everywhere) and it's insured with 24/7 global assistance.
>I wont be paying for transportation except for if we go out to a bar and the driver wants to drink.
UBER works worldwide, even with your American credit card on file.
Oh and check to see if your Credit Card offers any kind of lounge access. A lot of pseudo-premium cards offer 2-4 free lounge visits a year. A little quiet with some free food and booze is a godsend during a layover!
One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned is a universal plug converter. I have something like this and it's really handy. I've used it in SE Asia, Europe, and the Caribbean. There might be somewhere it doesn't work but I haven't been there yet.
Hey,
My wife has me on this mission as well, she has two hair tools (one is like a stick, one is the clamping thing) both are 110-240v 50-60hz. If I buy this item, can I just plug them into it, then it into the wall, and be fine (I know both can't be used at the same time, but i assume the dual voltage indicator on both items means they are made precisely for this application). I just don't want her blowing them up then being sad. We will also be in Italy later in the month and I figure it should work the same way there as well?
She also has a blow dryer but its 110v (so non dual?) and I don't think that is safe to plug into a UK/EU outlet (Becasue they push 220v?).
Lastly, with this item, at night time can we let say use the 2 USB slots for our phones and the one AC/plug slot for our laptop no problem?
Thanks!
Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=415R88TWPH12KEZNPHYC
Not every country uses the same type of power outlet, so the charger will probably be built to accommodate the country it’s being sold in. That’s why products like these exist for international travel:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KDOVAb74Z8G55
I can't find a link to the one I have, but it's something like this.
This is probably similar to another comment, but I've had this for a few years on multiple trips to various countries and have never had a problem
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ140LQ
I ended up buying a lot of my stuff when I was abroad. Like a toaster, blender, toiletries and shit of that nature. Research expat sites and cheap places to buy essentials in Rome so you can get stuff there.
You’ll have to check every one of your devices you want to bring but there are some that work with European outlet voltage (iPhones, iPads, etc) and some that don’t. For things that do work with the voltage buy these. For things that don’t you will need a converter. Something like this will work. Research each of your products if you plug something that needs a converter into an adaptor it will be ruined.
Check this out on AMZN:
PAC SNI35 Adjustable 2-Channel Line Out Converter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
Alright, here is the line out converter, everyone else gave it an awesome review, so I might be stupid or something.
You can use some of the following:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(or similar speaker level to line level converters) to adapt your speaker outputs on your receiver to line level outputs, adapting it into a pseudo preamp. They are commonly used in car audio, not so much home audio setups, but I've read that folks have auditioned home systems setup this way and the adapters supposedly did not affect the sound quality in any way. YMMV
Holy balls, for a buck? I wouldn't trust it...
What about some of these off of amazon? I just searched for LM2596.
USB outputs 5v, that is probably what these were designed to be used for, powered by USB.
The specs say 0.3W per led, the description says "150 pixels" and I'm guessing that means 150 LED's, so that's 45W per strip, but that seems like a LOT for USB.
You could use a 12v->5v step-down transformer to reduce the 12V voltage down to 5V but that one only handles 3 amps.
You'll need a line out converter. I used this LOC and haven't had any problems with it just make sure to properly ground it out. Then I used some Quick Splice/T-Taps to tap into the Rear Left Speaker (positive and negative) and Rear Right Speaker (positive and negative) at the back of the head unit. And wallah you got your RCA outputs