Best power distribution units according to redditors

Here it goes

From the top down

Behind the rack blanks at the top I have a 16 Channel Hikvision NVR. (Not pictured)

The monitor I found on amazon, here’s a link if anyone is interested. Monitor

The triplite power supplies are pretty much standard. I was hoping they would show energy usage but unfortunately non of them pull enough power to register on their displays. They can be found here

The networking gear is all Ubiquiti. We have a 1gb symmetrical fiber uplink to the house. Cloud key controls the network. There is about a dozen unifi AP’s scattered all over the house. Didn’t really need a 48 port poe switch here but I really like the look of them between 2 patch panels.

I have a UDM-Pro on order to replace the unifi security gateway. I absolutely despise of the USG-Pro, the performance is terrible, they run hot and the fans are pinned at max rpm. If you go with a cloud key and Ubiquiti switches you minus well use their gateway so it all ties in to their unifi controller.

The Contour box is from Cox. Att uverse is shit and I did want at least 1 cable box so when my parents visit I won’t have to explain how to use a chrome cast to them lol

Last but not least the Sonos amps. Fantastic amps, airplay 2 enabled and work with Spotify connect. Love them to death. They are a little pricy and $500 each. Sonos is definitely proud of their stuff. All of the tv’s have playbars under them too. It’s so nice to be able to group all my speakers together at the touch of a button and play music around the house.

Sorry for the formatting, I am on mobile right now. Honestly didn’t expect this post to get this much attention!

Any other questions fire away!

So starting from the ground up.

APC PDUs into two seperate circuits.

The cisco switch is the only device without redundant power. But again, it's only running IPMI which I can't make redudant anyway.

The 4 servers, 2 switches, and qnap are both each plugged into both PDUs.

I set up both Nutanix Clusters (3 node, 1 node). All the VMS on my 3 node are snapshotted and replicated to the 1 node cluster daily for 30 days and monthly for 72 months. Nutanix does not offer a way to export their VMS. No 3-2-1 rule for them.

I shut down a test VM on 3 node cluster and switched to the other 1 node cluster I was doing their data protection on. Hit restore and the vm came right back up on this 1 node cluster. pretty happy with that.

The VMS themselves back up their data daily to the QNAP using emcopy.exe. Qnap has backup software, I just haven't had time to get into it.

These clusters have been up and running for about 2 months. I finally copied all of the old data off the old servers and got them unplugged last night. That was a great feeling.

I am currently running 25 VMs (+3 controller vms). personal, friends, media, mysql, mssql, nginx, mongo, redis, domain controllers, dns, etc all adds up pretty quick. I am a developer by trade, so I have a lot of expermination and code all over the place.

Once pleasant suprise is that since most of my VMs are a clone and I am running the data dedupe, I am getting ~20:1 effeciency. I am only using around 2.5% of my logical data storage.

I refuse to do the exact math, but I am well over $8k into this.

So lets go back to my goals

no single point of failure.

Any cable can pulled and nothing turns off.

If any piece of hardware fails, all my vms continue running.



faster speed.

Nutanix has some voodoo. The VMs disk benchmark is faster than my NVME desktop.

Network copying gets 600mbps+ tends to slow down on transfers of serveral gbs. Needs to investigate more.



some sorta backup.

doing snap shots to secondary cluster.

nutanix allows file level restore from previous snapshots.

data copied to nas daily.

would like actual file level back up to nas eventually.

Since someone will ask. I am running between 4-5 amps on each APC.

Problems I have encountered:

Nutanix does not show the network cards in their web interface. They show up fine in the CLI?

2 Ram sticks were returning ECC errors. Used servers, this is a risk. Monitor your IMPI people!

Watchguard does not technically support Nutanix. So the manager shows a lot of warnings. Support said they are just warnings.

I somehow crashed a nutanix install on the satadom. Was able to get it re installed relatively quickly. requires a live cd to image the disk. I bought a 5th satadom to just have on hand.

No way to monitor the disk SMART info from nutanix that I have found yet.

Hardware List;

2x APC7900

https://www.amazon.com/APC-AP7900-Switched-Surge-Protector/dp/B0000AAAYH

​

Cisco SG110-24

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDNHKQ4

​

2x QUANTA LB6M 24-PORT 10GBE SFP+

https://www.unixplus.com/products/quanta-lb6m-24-port-10gbe-sfp-4x-1gbe-l2-l3-switch

​

4x SUPERMICRO 1U X9DRI-LN4F+ SERVER

Dual E5-2650 V2, 128gb Ram (8x16gb)

https://unixsurplus.com/collections/1u-servers/products/supermicro-1u-x9drw-3ln4f-dual-intel-xeon-e5-2670-octo-core-2-6ghz-1u-server

​

4x Intel X520-DA2 10Gbps SFP+

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106044

​

8x WD Blue 1tb SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX

​

4x 16gb SATADOM

https://www.amazon.com/Supermicro-SSD-DM016-PHI-16GB-SATADOM/dp/B00NGBW5GM/

​

6x WD RE 2tb spinny drives (Nutanix 3 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)

2x WD RE 4tb spinny drives (Nutanix 1 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)

​

QNAP TS-432XU-RP-2G-US

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWC85JH/

​

4x WD 6tb Red Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/

I've done CCTV for a living, and still install a bunch of systems whenever my clients need them.

I've installed systems like this from Zosi, Elec, Amcrest, Annke, Swann, and a couple others. They're all the same. They'll all do what you want.

Here are a few pieces of advice:

• For resolution.. for the most part you wan't see much difference between 720p and 1080p. 1080 obviously has a better picture, but 720 is more than sufficient for the majority of my clients' needs. Don't get hung up on it.
  
• Dome/Bullet : Doen't matter. Mostly aesthetics. There are some angles/positions that one or the other does better, but those are hard to explain. A blend of the two would be ideal, so you have both available when you find that a dome or bullet won't work for some spot or another.
  
• Use baluns. (Link) They allow you to run analog cameras (and power) over a single ethernet cable. Ethernet is easier to pull, cheaper, and more versatile. If you ever want to upgrade to an IP camera system, you can just swap out your endpoint hardware.
  
• (Optional) Ditch the included power supply, which will be a wall wart with a splitter. Those are lame, and one wire getting screwed up will potentially take a bunch of other cameras with it. Not cool. Real CCTV power supply boxes have individually fused (usually even resettable) power connections for each camera. Here's an example of a real power supply - Link.
  
• Remember you can always upgrade the hard drive in your DVR if you want more capacity.
  
  Feel free to message me if you have any other questions.

Tell the electrician that you want 3 to 5 30-amp 240-volt breakers installed with one L6-30R receptacle running off of each breaker. Then buy these 240 volt PDU’s and some of these C13 power cords for your rig power supplies. You’re all set.

This 240 volt setup will double your capacity and make your power supplies more efficient.

Net Admin here, I'm not sure what your budget it is, but we routinely use network controlled (IE has a webpage) power strips and even phone controlled (Connects to a phone jack for redundancy) to power cycle devices.

an example here (Use autoping to reboot Modem/Router so that you never lose network connectivity) or something like this. Just a thought in case no one has ever told you about them. Outside of that that's a pretty awesome set up.

I like to use the Brainworx plugins for my mono button. Just put it on the master fader and bypass it to go back to stereo. I also have my speakers on individual power switches so I can turn one side off and flip it in mono pretty easily for a mono ref.

Maybe not, though. Can buy a new cyber power unit for [$350 on amazon](CyberPower PDU15SW10ATNET Switched ATS PDU, 100-120V/15A, 10 Outlets, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PY0KUCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bn0jDb1QHHYEJ).

I know it’s not apples to apples, but it’s a good point of reference.

If I was buying piecemeal, I would buy...

• FT-450D $750
  
• Pyramid 30amp switching psu ~$80
  
• DX-CC Fan Dipole $180
  
• 50' rg8x feedline $20
  
  total ~ $1030
  
  So youd save ~$200, but you also wouldnt be getting the LDG tuner ... which is likely where the cost difference is. IMO you dont need the LDG tuner, the built in ATU + fan dipole that is resonant on multiple bands will get you operating on 80,40,20,10 (and maybe even 6).
  
  Alternatively, you can build very simple 40/20 fan dipole for MUCH cheaper than the DX-CC (like ... $50?) so it really depends how much you want it to work "out of the box".
  
  FWIW i bought the dx-cc when i bought my first HF rig (an FT-897d) because I didnt want to mess with antenna stuff a ton before getting on the air. I've been very happy with it.
  
  
  
  edit:
  
  to clarify, I think you are better off spending money on an antenna than you are on a tuner.

Yes, it's common practice in some studios. Mostly for just cross referencing on multiple monitors, or turning on/off a sub.

There's actually a rack mount version of a power strip for that very reason.

It's most likely you can pull this off, but you'll have to do some math to see what you need to do to deliver the needed power.

If you have thick copper wires (12/14 gauge) over very short distances, you can just hook up the cameras of your choosing to the cables (eg. using barrel plugs with screw terminals like this), a power supply with the appropriate voltage and wattage (like this) and you're set.

If your wires are thinner, you have very long runs of cable, you're using low voltage cameras and/or your cameras are very picky about the input voltage, you'll probably want to use a 24/48 volt power supply, and use voltage regulators near the individual cameras to drop the voltage back down to the required level.

Math will tell you which of those two options you need.

You probably do not have to worry about burning out the wires unless they are REALLY thin, but speaker wire normally is a lot thicker (16 AWG or up) than other wire that carries low voltage (like 20/22 AWG alarm wire).

I will second this. For a small investment ($300+/-), you can get an excellent mobile unit like the Uniden 980SSB that has all the features you'd want or need for a entry level base station, a good antenna such as the Solarcon A-99 or IMAX, and a decent power supply that will run 5A constant for a barefoot (no amp) radio. You should be able to reach out all over your local area (5-10 miles) and talk with few issues, huge buildings and mountains aside of course.

If you want to walk on the wild side and get a small linear amplifier (under 200W), you can expand that range drastically, and even do some very respectable DX work on SSB, like across states or even international communication when the conditions are right. Now, here's the disclaimer... Linear amps ARE illegal. You are legally limited to 4W. I can't LEGALLY justify telling you to use one of these, and do so at your own risk, but many CB users do. And at power levels far exceeding 200W. With very little to no enforcement by the FCC. So take that with a grain of salt.

My base works excellent and is essentially the recipe I've given you. I have made many contacts out of state, and half way across the country. I can hear Mexico from time to time as well. Here's what I have. This would exceed $300, but I added a larger power supply to support an amp, and of course an amp.

Uniden 980SSB -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B5ZAES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IqHqDb8ECS0SF

Solarcon A-99 -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT550G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vrHqDb7YAXWBZ

Pyramid PSV-300 Power Supply -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT4TK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fsHqDb88K4CGP

RM Italy KL203P Linear Amplifier -

https://www.newegg.com/p/0TF-0002-00001

This is the one I got, unfortunately the price has jumped a bit. Here's another one, though. Should be sufficient

I know this isn't what you're looking for, but maybe others may be. If you just want to buy a solution for this, plus other features, you may be interested in this power strip:

https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L

For this use, it has an auto-ping function that you can configure to reboot certain sockets if it doesn't successfully ping a certain number of times, and wait an amount of time before trying again, etc. You can reboot sockets in certain orders if your network equipment requires that.

I haven't messed around with anything advanced yet, but it does have MQTT, REST, echo etc.

I second this. I swapped everything over to 240 last night and everything seems much more stable. Definitely affordable, especially if you already have an unused 20/30A 240V in a garage or something and definitely worth doing. Tripplite 30A PDU ~$160 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), C14 to PSU cables ($5 each or less if used) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and presto. You're good to go. It was literally plug and play with all of my PSUs (EVGA, Corsair, Rosewill, etc.). Everything is on one 30A 240V outlet instead of spread across multiple 110 outlets.

Call an electrician. Tell him/her that you need a 240V 30A circuit installed that you can plug one of these into:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A (or similar spec PDU)

Buy a few of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CE9O8

... and connect your S9s to the PDU. 1 in each bank.

You can run 4 S9s off of the above 30A 240V PDU and circuit, while still observing the 80% rule.

That's how you do it.

I actually just had an electrician in to do a circuit upgrade last week for my mining!

2000w at 120v is roughly 17 amps. This is actually a bit above the recommended continuous operation limit of a 20 amp circuit - you're only supposed to run at 80% rated capacity if running for more than 3 straight hours. It's close enough you could probably get away with a 120v 20 amp circuit per unit, especially if you're actually pulling less power - is 2000 watts the rated power of the PSUs (like two 1000 watt PSUs), or is that actually measured? I managed to burn out a GFCI pulling 19 amps through it, but that was actually measured with a clamp ammeter, not the theoretical max of the system.

You could have them do a single run of 240v 30 amp with an L6-30 plug, then run it into a PDU for distribution to the systems. The run would likely be $300, then another $100 for a dirt cheap PDU. Running at 240v is more efficient than 120v, plus it makes it easier to get the necessary power. One L6-30 would be enough to run your 3 rigs within the safety margins, and if they pull less current than they're rated for, you might be able to run a 4th on that. You could also spend a bit more for a metered PSU, which has a current display built into it so you'd know exactly how much power you're actually using (I am using this one from Tripp Lite, although I got a deal on it). You can find some cheap ones at http://www.refurbups.com/APC-PDU

As for what I specifically did - I had one big 100 amp line run to a subpanel, then put in 4 circuits in the mining room; 2 L6-30 240v 30 amp and two 5-20 120v 20 amp. The L6-30s each run 4 rigs with a bit of expansion room, and the 5-20s run cooling and peripherals (like routers).

>pre-outs continue to play when headphones are connected

Jason explained this, there's no 4 pin XLR jack that supports muting.

I solved this issue using a power switcher but my gear is on an audio rack, so it might not be the best solution for free-standing gear.

I've heard lots of great things about the American DJ power strips. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491478959&sr=1-5&refinements=p_4%3AAmerican+DJ

Ahh, lighting control. Amazing results, pain in the ass to get there...

As the others have said, DMX can help you control your lights. Simple DMX controls and programs are fairly simple to do using a controller, like an obey10. Wash lighting, simple programs for slow songs, etc., these are all awesome to do, and give the night that much more appeal. But, there's more work to be done. Addressing your lights, wiring up the DMX (or spending more on wireless dmx) creating programs, etc.

If you want some control but this seems daunting, get something like this to control lighting on/off (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) as a start. Great for cheap lasers, moonflowers, etc.

Obey10 is a good starter controller if you have more than par cans to wire up. If all you have are pars, then an obey 4 is suffcient.

If you really wanna go all out, get an OpenDMX USB controller, and download QLC+, which is open source. This is controller is a couple hundred, but allows you to do full programming in QLC+. This is the most complex you'll wanna go for a mobile rig, I would think. With this, you can create programs, then control them from a lighting laptop, or even setup TouchOSC and control it remotely with your phone... all sorts of cool, but time-consuming things.

You can get as complicated as you'd like when it comes to lighting... If your clients like what you're doing, keep doing it. If you want to step it up in looks, but keep it simple, do your parcans with a simple Obey4 and control them only, then put the rest on sound active with a simple power-switcher...

My 2 cents. Fully-programmed lights make it awesome, but you'll suffer at setup time...

I use a pdu https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0

with these cords

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P005-006/dp/B0027JTJ22

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C19-IEC-320-C20-P036-006/dp/B001348EDC

A very relatable problem. I bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZWD146/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_IlhIwbPXVWVZE

Maybe I missed that in the documentation (my last one was a G5), but how do you remotely reboot a frozen Xserve?

Also, you could always use a networked PDU

It's a rack mount power switcher. I can turn everything on/off with it.

One 240/30A should be adequate :) That gives you 7,200 watts and even at 80% load that's 5,760 watt max so you're pretty close to that number. Go with two x2 240/30A for now; you may just need the one extra down the road if you expand or have a tool or something that can take advantage of the 240's. Might as well get it done while the electrician is in there.

We upgraded ours completely as our 100 amp panel to be upgraded so had my friend (master electrician) install new 200 amp panel (waiting for 200A drop by the electric company). 40-slot panel including whole house surge protector (fits inside two slots).

I took the possible maximum power each card can draw just to have some breathing room and ended up with x2 240/30A breaker running on L6-30 plugs with Tripp-Lite PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A) I split the power between the two lines even though I can probably run all my 40 1080 Ti's on one but wanted to spread the load a bit.

240's are nice since there's a slight increase in efficiency but also you're able to run server PSU's like HP's with breakout board which ends up being cheaper than buying couple 1200W PSU's.

You could use this

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Socket-with-Outlets-White-R52-01403-00W/100184555

With a short extension cord maybe to this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WI6POVY?psc=1&smid=A18FJ6DZ5DLR7S

And then go off that with some 18/2 wire available at home depot

UPS aren't relevant here. They are battery backups. You need a PDU. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure the plug matches. You will also need C14 to C13 power cords.

I replaced one of those with an ecobee3. What's you're missing is the c-wire or wiring to give it 24v of power continuously.

You need a 24v transformer like this

Currently mine is plugged in near my furnace in my furnace/uitility/work room and the two wires are run up through the wall to my ecobee. But until I had a chance to run the wire I just had it plugged into an outlet in my hallway below the ecobee. I just ran the wire from it, straight up to and in behind the ecobee (yes, outside the wall... it didn't look great, but it was just temporary until I could take the time to run new wire.)

Good luck with that. When your router goes offline, the iHome plug will lose connection with the iHome cloud (i.e. it'll no longer be controllable). So, how're you going to turn the router back on?

This might work if you used a z-wave outlet that can be controlled locally by the Wink hub 2. Schedule the outlet to go off, add then create a robot that turns the outlet back on a minute after it goes off.

Personally, I'd recommend one of these - I find them to be extremely reliable.

These are all running:

• TB250-BTC PRO (12-slot) MOBOs (utilizing 8 slots)
  
• Pentium G4400 processors
  
• 4GB ram
  
• Ubuntu 17.10 with latest Nvidia drivers (390.25)
  
• Cheap 32GB SSD
  
• Cheap Amazon shoe racks
  
• Tripp Lite PDU
  
• Fan
  
  

I found a custom cord page on that site:

https://www.stayonline.com/custom_power_cords.aspx

I'm not sure how it validates the configuration since receptacles have different wires/grounding but they have an email you can contact on there for guidance.

If it's possible to change that plug into a NEMA L5-30 (which it seems is possible on that custom cord page) then op could get a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000083KIV

That might be a little overkill for what op needs.

Another option to consider is instead of using the C13 to NEMA 5-15 cables from your PSU, you can use C13 to C14 to a PDU that accepts them which would run your PSUs at 240V instead of 120V. Then instead of the NEMA 10-50 to L5-30 op could get a cable that does NEMA 10-50 to L6-30 and a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A

This is all operating under the assumption that it is possible to convert 10-50 to L5-30 or L6-30. NEMA 10-50 is non-grounding so that may be an issue.

That is nice. I remember, though not fondly, cobbling together a Digi board (probably ISA maybe PCI) and octopus cable because additional conservers were outside our budget.

Since we're swapping links, here is a budget device for power cycling: Web Power Switch Pro.

Something like this PDU May do the job.

Thanks man, it came out a lot nicer than expected.
I had some LED par cans laying around that I used to use for parties, just put them in the corner behind the desk. One facing straight up to the ceiling, the other two uplighting the wall opposite them. The two shining on the walls are set to the same speed while the 3rd which is on the ceiling is slightly slower and unsynced so I can have a bit of a cool dynamic. Plus I have them all plugged into a rackmount power strip (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) so I can switch individual ones on and off whenever.

> ADJ Power conditioner

It's just a power switch?

https://www.amazon.ca/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

Keep trying new things. I'm lucky to have a proper room where I can get everything just right, but one new pedal or synth comes along, and the whole setup gets torn apart and reconfigured. That's half the fun! I get the cut-to-length velcro by the roll and use it on everything.

I can't quite see everything you've got going on, but since you've got that rack, you could add a power strip (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) to get all your power plugs organized behind convenient toggle switches (might hide away some of the clutter also).

You probably don't need a patch bay just yet, but if you add a few more audio inputs/outputs, and you find yourself juggling connections too much, consider adding one, such as: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PX3000/. That can help with organizing cables and routing options as your setup grows.

Here you go.

single port, $70
dual port, $100
eight port, $135

Have fun.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/

Just swap the socket to a L6-30 and run with it :)

I'd be pretty upset with that. You could order the Lutron power-panel kit:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/085312.pdf

I'm betting the barrel plugs are the most common 2.1mm x 5.5mm size used for security cameras. If that is so, there is lots of stuff available to run several from one power-supply, for example this multi-barrel-connector power supply kit with a few of these power extensions. There are also similar things for 12V Christmas lighting that are more likely to be white cables.

I'd also use a raceway kit to conceal the cables.

The Lutron kit sure looks like a standard multicamera power supply for security cameras.

Network accessible power switch/strips exist for remote power cycling if a system becomes unresponsive. This would be an example, but there are plenty of options and pricepoints out there.

a) If you want to be able to run the three of them at full speed, you need a > 120W power supply (12V3.3A3 = 118.8W) that outputs either fixed 12 V or variable voltage that covers some of the range 0-12. This should be relatively easy to find in a hardware or a circuits store. You could even possibly use a computer PSU with some hacks, assuming the different output support this wattage at 12V.

b) I wouldn't think so. I'm not an electrician but I believe many simple dimmers are mostly inductors or have some internal circuitry to drop the voltage, most of them assuming AC in and AC out which is not your case. You want a DC-DC converter, ideally this is internal to the power supply itself (variable output power supply), there are also relatively simple circuits that do this (look switch mode power supplies, dc/dc converters), or you can go with a simpler (but lossier) solution with an in-series resistors or a number of diodes (ca 0.7-1V drop each), just note that those will simply "burn off" excess voltage, and combined with the amperage you are giving they will produce quite a lot of heat (you'll need high wattage components and heatsinks). Another solution here is a low frequency pulse width modulator (PWM) that alternates between pulses of 12V and 0V, though depending on the internals of the fan this may or may not work.

c) Again the answer here is it depends on the type of fan. So motors like you'll find in fans need some sort of an oscillating circuit to get the fan moving, it's not a simple resistive circuit, if it were, you're assumption about the linear relationship between voltage and current is correct. Most of these fans are designed in such a way as to reduce their speed with lower input voltage, but the exact relationship between voltage, current and the fan RPM is likely nonlinear and fan dependent. Most computer fans for example have 3 pin connectors, with the one pin giving a pulse on each fan rotation (I believe) which is how the motherboard can see how fast it is rotating. This is a form of a feedback mechanism which can be used by a driver circuit to figure out what voltage output is needed to reduce the fan rotation to a certain point (you want a certain RPM, you lower the voltage until you get it).

To summarize, you are probably best off getting a variable voltage power supply, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Precision-Variable-Digital-Adjustable/dp/B00SWK6M0M (note I have no idea about the quality of this model). You can then wire up all the fans in parallel and change the voltage to change the fan speed. Make sure you don't output much more than 12V as you will likely destroy the fans. If you are looking for a more permanent solution you can find some variable power supplies that fit your needs and are less "user interfacy" and more robust to sit and run for extended times.

A bonus of the bench top power supply is that it will be super handy when you start messing around with circuits in general. To understand more I recommend picking up the basics of circuit analysis, e.g. https://www.khanacademy.org/science/electrical-engineering/ee-circuit-analysis-topic (I have not gone through this myself), going to your nearest hardware store, get a breadboard and some components and start playing around.

I have an APC 1500 UPS.

APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output Rack-Mount/Tower (SMC1500-2U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT2KV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ie38BbXJYPAM3

I got it from dell for less than that because I had a bunch of rewards points from ordering stuff through dell business credit.

I have it mounted on the bottom of my rack because it’s super heavy.

My devices are not plugged into the UPS. They’re plugged into PDU’s which go into the UPS.

I’m using two of these.

StarTech.com Rackmount PDU with 8 Outlets with Surge Protection - 19in Power Distribution Unit - 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035PS5AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4f38BbNGK7QE4

There are 0u ones that mount on the side of the rack as well. They’re more expensive. Those are the least expensive new PDU’s you’ll find.

A few of my customers at work have this UPS.

CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U Smart App LCD UPS System, 500VA/300W, 6 Outlets, AVR, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJJN60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3i38BbR8SWEXS

It’s worked pretty well. It doesn’t have the ability to connect via the network or do any outage management stuff without being directly plugged in via usb. You can purchase an additional card for that. The APC is more advanced and has higher output, but higher cost.

The cyberpower does not have replaceable batteries, which are consumables and will need replaced every few years.

These smaller ones typically power a router, network switch, access point, and perhaps a small office nas device like a netgear readynas 3138.

At work we use these or bigger.

APC SMT2200RM2U 2200VA RM 2U LCD 120V Smart-UPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F09D0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bl38Bb6QQM1W4

They’re super nice. Management card is additional. These require 20 amp circuits and receptacles or higher. You can use the software (webpage) to power cycle a group of outlets. Pretty neat stuff. But you do pay for the neat stuff.

The ERL-3 and ES are pretty good kit, though I have a bit of a bias against the ERL because I've had two of them go TU on me. I will point out that that's a POE switch, and you didn't list POE as a requirement. The non-POE version is quite a bit cheaper.

I have this PDU because I want my cables "inside" the rack, but it looks similar enough. The one thing I hate about it is that the power switch isn't protected in any way--it's WAY too easy to accidentally power off half of your stuff.

Other than that, looks solid.

I'd look into a network power switch with auto-ping. There are commercial and DIY (Pi and Arduino based) used to reboot and even stagger power on of network devices.
Example 1 and specialized vendor.

If I had to replace it I would use one of these. The negative reviews are mainly from people that had bad experiences with the distributor or misleading info on Amazon.

Best I can help is in IT we used 'managed power strips' While not wireless, it can still be connected to the network.

Example here

The 2 comments are pointing you in the right direction for the timer.

Regarding the TV, both of their suggestions are good. My kids don't have a TV in their rooms but they all use the electronics in the Loft which all 4 of their rooms open directly into; I use these powerstrips and turn off the outlets that power the TV, computers and sound system after my "bedtime" timed event. I used the catch the boys waking up early to play games online or watch youtube videos.

Easy, just turn off the main power strip when you are not gaming.
There is no practical need for a "failsafe", because standby draw should be rather low.

A bit more complex, but safer, is a DJ power strip. Still no"failsafe" but better than the one strip.

Basically nothing inexpensive. I've used this power supply in a production environment running 24/7 for ~1.5 years now, but of course you don't get programmable voltage and current.
I've been using the extech 382275 as my primary bench supply for awhile now. It falls a little short of what you need, but I think it's as close as you'll get for <$1k. As an additional note, the output capacitor is not included in the current control loop, and there's no over current protection, so you can inadvertently dump a shitload of current through your device if you're not paying attention.

I use this one, pretty decent. I can handle 3 to 4 antminers (depending on model). Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 20 Outlets (16 C13 & 4 C19), 200/208/240V, L6-30P Input, 15 ft. Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power (PDU1230) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't really know much about PDUs, so I just got a simple one. 30A 220v - which can run 4 of my 1400w server PSUs per PDU per 30A outlet.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This has poor documentation, but you can use it in place of the dumb WiFi socket to get the desired results : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NM0LKI/

There's an awkward web API way of controlling the socket (go to the website http://www.msnswitch.com/ and then Support & FAQ and then Q#5912 - doesn't appear I can link directly)

You can also set it up to auto reboot one of it's outlets if an IP isn't responding, so you could have it reboot the Pi if it stops pinging for X time.

You of course can also just log into the web API and manually do things too.

If just 12 volt and LED you can use Cat 5 or Cat 6 LAN cable to run your loads. I use the this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1N68FW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I have a few runs that are maybe 75 feet. I have no voltage drop on those circuit as measured by my volt meter. I must have close to 80 feet of LED strip lights all running off one power supply https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TBHBSO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which conversion cables are you referring to?

Here's my planned setup. From the wall socket which is a NEMA 14-30R I plan on plugging the following PDU into it https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A

with the following adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2JSVV/

Now the question is do i need to use any special PSU cables? Should I use the C19 ports on the PDU or are the standard C13 cables fine?

I plan on running 5 rigs, each rig is pulling about 750 from the wall when plugged into a standard 110 wall outlet.

Could use one of these adapters along with one of these PDU's. We use a similar setup with an unused NEMA 14-50 outlet.

You might try a bench power supply:

https://www.amazon.ca/Pyramid-PSV300-Heavy-duty-Switching-Supply/dp/B000NPT4TK/

You'll need to pay careful attention to electrical safety and cooling.

12u Royal rack. It comes on wheels, which is a plus for me. Also grab yourself a rack mount power switch These are really nice to have for power cycling devices, and they look cool too.

As the other user said, it's a separate power supply. The cable run to the camera from the DVR is usually a siamese cable with two halves. One for video and one for power. Either of these type of power supplies is normally used.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Channel-Camera-Power-Supply/dp/B0069MB6G0

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adapter-Channel-Connectors/dp/B002WM8ZV0

You want a PDU like this. It allows you to power cycle devices over a network. Just about every modern server room has something similar.

No, you are lucky 220V 30 Amps is perfect (will support 5200 watts without much to spare). Just get a PDU like this one - or another one that has the plug you need.

The power supplies will be slightly more efficient with 220V input.

https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-6-15P-C13-Power-Cord/dp/B004WJM2V0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1511922973&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=6-15p+end+to+C13

Something like this?
+
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Metered-Rack-Mount-PDUMH32HV/dp/B0050JSCPQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914789&sr=8-5&keywords=220v%2BPDU&th=1

By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.

If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.

Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank:

• Wall mountable 6u rack
  
• 24-port Cat6 patch panel
  
• Power distribution - A good old surge protector will do the trick, this just gives a clean look and is more reliable.
  
• 24 port ethernet switch - This is to activate all the ethernet ports throughout the house.

The links below are clean, no hidden bullshit affiliate codes.

I'll just link the ones I use. You should buy whatever brand you have a preference to. I buy my PDU's used for usually 40% of the cost of a new one. There will be a ton on eBay and Craigslist in your area. I would recommend you always buy your cables brand new. If you happen to buy them on Amazon, don't ever buy from a 3rd part seller as there is a good chance they will be fakes. So stick to the ships and sold by Amazon for those.


I use these specific PDU's..

Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 30 Outlets (6-C19 & 24-C13), 208/240V, L6-30P, 10 ft. Cord, 0U Vertical Rack-Mount Power (PDUMV30HV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DekeAbP5ZN6FN

And I use these cables:

TRIPP LITE P036-003-15A Heavy Duty Power Extension Cord 14 AWG IEC 320 C19-C20 3' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01999UX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TfkeAbYWGXW2B

any rack mount AC switch found for 30 $

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1509683878&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=american+dj+rack+mount+AC+switch

I've been using these power strips for awhile now on my labs and they are very handy.

http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-PC-100A-Channel-Lighted/dp/B0002GL50Q

I'm probably going with this one. Around the same price as the no-name networked power strip I found on amazon but with 4x as many power ports.

I got this http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Digital-Loggers-Outlets-Protection/dp/B00EZWD146/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462320903&sr=8-1&keywords=web+power

It lets you remote into a web interface and turn devices on/off. It also lets you script things up to turn things on/off. Comes with default scripts as well to ping an IP for example and if no reply after X minutes restart plug 2 etc etc.

I've got something similar,

http://www.amazon.com/MSNSwitch-Newest-Internet-IPEnabled-Interface/dp/B015NM0LKI

Works pretty good, this one has 2 outlets that you can set differently, you can schedule reboots, there's various notifications and settings you can change etc. I had problems with my cable modem shitting out on me so now when it loses connectivity it reboots. I highly recommend it for anyone constantly having to go unplug your shit. Now almost every time I want to use the Internet it's working like it's supposed to.

Why don't you just plug it in to one of these?

Edit: Or a less expensive version.

Well, $120 is better than $400, so I do appreciate the advice. I may get it.

looks to be this switch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

Typically on a rack people install a PDU. Ours are vertical and mounted in the back but there are 1u PDU's.

Here is just an example - related products shows different types.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-19-Inch-Rackmount-Distribution-RKPW081915/dp/B0035PS5AE

Look for a 20A "monitored" PDU. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PDU20MT8FNET-Monitored-100-120V-Rackmount/dp/B005TXZ0T4/ You probably aren't going to find it more compact than that unfortunately. You will also need a new receptacle or adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VHAQ2Y/

Amazon shows something like this however i don't see it rated at 20amp. Most show 10amp. Maybe APC has something in 20amp?

Hey can you recommend any smart PDUs that show wattage? I’m using these now but they only display amps

Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 30 Outlets (6-C19 & 24-C13), 208/240V, L6-30P, 10 ft. Cord, 0U Vertical Rack-Mount Power (PDUMV30HV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4w5ZBbQZ3NQ0A

Edit: looking at my amp readout, overclocked to 14th/s, my miners are pulling 5 amps. I used that to calculate my watts and on 208v I’m estimating I’m pulling 1040 watts. Huge improvement even overclocked.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Here is a dumb question. But.. I need to ask. The power supplies I am using are EVGA Supernova 1000 watt G2. It states they are rated for 100-240v. The L630 plug with PDU is 208v setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1516596882&sr=8-2&keywords=l630p+pdu&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=oskoin-20&linkId=1cb71ee8826c1d8f3973a81f0386eb15 This is the PDU I am looking at currently.

Will the Power supplies I have work fine with this setup being that it is 208v and not full 240? I think that answer is yes, but I want to make sure.

​

And also, not to add more separate posts, from what I understand, I would use a normal plug-in with surge protector for my items such as fan/portable a/c, and computer monitor right? The PDU is for the powersupply of the GPU rigs only.

Example of a switched PDU CyberPower PDU15SW10ATNET

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PDU20MT8FNET-Monitored-PDU-8-Outlet/dp/B005TXZ0T4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497798791&sr=1-3&keywords=ip+pdu

These get snapped up pretty quick on ebay, what you are looking for is a ip pdu /w remote management.

This might be overkill but if you have a lot of rigs, this is an option.

https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542372603&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+logger

adjustable voltage, current limiting power supply is what you want

something like this.. https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Precision-Variable-Digital-Adjustable/dp/B00SWK6M0M

set the voltage at 17 volts.. set the short circuit current at 1/3 of an amp.. hook it to you deeply or totally discharged battery and walk away for a few days.. the 17 volts at a current limited 1/3 of an amp may Dissolve the sulfate crystals.. i have pulled batteries back from totally dead after being slowly discharged over a month..

marine batteries at least at AZ are less expensive than others.. https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/marine-battery?filterByKeyWord=marine+battery&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

Maybe if the offshore IT people were up to snuff they would have invested in https://www.amazon.com/Managed-Designed-Manufactured-Synaccess-Networks/dp/B0039OZKPE and its big brothers Every data center we use has monitored power.

These are probably both much more expensive options than you want, but:

• Out-of-band management like DRAC/iLO/etc. It's a card that will power the system on, give you remote console, etc. http://serverfault.com/questions/235976/ilo-and-drac-equivalents
  
  
• A KVM of sorts, indeed -- KVM over IP: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch#Remote_KVM_devices -- combined with power strip over IP (such as this one)

I run 2 sony xplod 12's on a 400 watt orion amp in my shop and and a kicker l7 in my room on an 800W kenwood amp to cover my addiction to proper bass. It's all car audio stuff. And my neighbors can feel it if it is turned up much at all.

The biggest barrier is getting enough 12v current to handle a car amp. 250W really isnt bad though. Thats well within the capabilities of many modern pc power supply's 12v outputs. You would need to make sure that the PSU can can output at least 25 amps at 12v (this gives ~4 amps over the max power draw of the amplifier)

Look up using a PC PSU as a 12v supply for info on how to turn those PSU's on. 12v is 12v. As long as you can supply enough current, the amp will be very happy. In fact it will be more stable than any power supply that amp was intended to run on.

VERY IMPORTANT: Put a 25A fuse inline between the PSU and the amp for safety. 20+ amps can catch things on fire real quick if it shorts and a fuse can save your house.

For ease and cost you might wanna look at just a 12v power supply like https://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Compact-Supply-Converter-PSV300/dp/B000NPT4TK

You still need a fuse!

Check out: http://www.bcae1.com/ for loads of info on car audio wiring. Everything applies to this setup it's just in a house instead of a car.

https://www.amazon.com/Panamax-MR4000-Management-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B009MQTC52

Get one of these for your power cables. Fits nicely on a normal sized shelf and looks like any other component, none of your power cables will be visible from the front. Zip ties for your HDMI cables.

Wow thats neat! I wonder how hard it would be to modify a 1U PDU like this to be like that

https://www.amazon.com/Managed-Designed-Manufactured-Synaccess-Networks/dp/B0039OZKPE

For power, you'll want to go with 220v (it's more efficient). You'll need to know the draw for your power supply and the load (amps) it puts on the circuit. For example 1400w @ 220v = ~6.36amp. Because it's constant draw, you don't want to exceed 80% of the circuit's max capacity.

For my units, I installed 2 x 30amp 220v breakers in my panel and used a few PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/) with a NEMA L6-30P connecters and C14 to C13 power cables that connect it to the power supplies.

Kind of pricey, but this could meet your needs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0765NCB2L

Can be configured to ping a device and initiate a reboot if no response. You can also remote into the power switch to initiate reboots or shutdowns. They have a demo portal set up so you can play with admin features, http://pro.digital-loggers.com, user/pass admin/4321

Less expensive options include:

https://amazon.com/dp/B015NM0LKI - two outlets

https://amazon.com/dp/B01GOOE8OY - single outlet


I don't have first-hand experience with any of the devices, I had been looking into this issue myself a while back and found these devices after some light research.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT4TK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B6ldvb1QH60FQ

Plenty of power for a radio and amp

I was looking at the same brand but this model. What do you think?

The Tripplite guide was perfect for explaining the different types of PDUs! I am now looking at this one as it seems to have individual switch control and a web interface, which is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not sure if I will be able to SSH into it though, which may make it unusable to proxmoc so I will have to confirm that first.

The plug next to it is 120v 20a. That plug is a 240v.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012VN0I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A bit overkill, but it is awesome! lol.

Here's an MSNSwitch one, I'll let you know if I find an Amazon Basics branded one.

I did try doing this (turning the master output on the Zed mixer down to infinity) and the voltage change still causes the "pop" in the speakers. I'll probably invest in a on/off switch strip like this in order to avoid the evil "pop".

Yea it’s solid so far. I’m pretty sure it’s made in China, but it’s been ok so far. It only cost 60-70 bucks I forget, and I got beefier cables.

I figured if I had to get a more pricey unit then I would but if this one worked and didn’t crap out I’d be good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SWK6M0M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I have a this car amp and a 4 ohm 400w rms Focal car subwoofer sitting around and want to use in my house. Will this power supply be sufficient? Will I need anything else to to make it work?

There's this if you don't feel like going through the hassle of signing up as a partner:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZWD146/

So please someone correct me if I'm wrong. I believe you need a L6-30r recepticle with a L6-30p pdu and use c13 to c14 cables preferably 14awg. [Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027JTJ22/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522540645&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=c13+to+c14+power+cord) [pdu] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007YG85A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522540759&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tripplite+pdu&dpPl=1&dpID=31M8t%2BMq9yL&ref=plSrch)

This was the UPS that was purchased. https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-6000VA-RM-UPS-6000-Watt-6000-VA/3590615?cm_ven=email&cm_cat=ET_BC&cm_pla=MKT14Q076adu0000p0000&cm_ite=MKT14Q076_20180201_TRIG_PRODCATCH_0_CTRL_A&etsi=12258963&etsu=&obem=r6tIoIA1Z0S7QJ6YyY4EeD30ItfeRgzMhoxC7JcVWmc%3D

As for a rack we have a single rail rack about 6 foot tall. Nothing special. The company I work for is moving their servers back in house so they never had a heavy duty rack. Currently holds our ASA, Switch, PBX system, and a couple other odds & ends.

The PDU I was looking at on amazon is here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks for all of this!

Agreed. Surge protectors can have a huge impact on sound quality but also picture quality. Anyone that tells you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. This is what you want Panamax MR4000 Amazon