Best power drill parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 1,182 Reddit comments discussing the best power drill parts & accessories. We ranked the 628 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,182 Reddit comments discussing the best power drill parts & accessories. We ranked the 628 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
How to make a bong out of a Hennessy bottle:
1/5th bottles seem to work best. Get a bottle, wash it out, and set aside.
Go to a smoke shop and ask for a downstem and bowl piece. Ideally the down stem will be about 6” long. You can go longer/shorter depending on the angle your hole is made at.
Once you have your downstem, take a tape measure and measure the OSD of the glass. (Outside diameter. In my case the OSD was a hair over 1/2”, so I used a 5/8” drill bit)
Once you know the OSD of the downstem, you’ll need to go to the hardware store and get a drill bit that is at least 1mm larger than the OSD of your downstem. You need a special carbide (or diamond in some cases, ymmv depending on where you go to get the bit) drill bit that is intended for going through glass. They look a bit like this.
Drill your hole. ALWAYS WET DRILL GLASS. Always. Do it in your sink with the water running, and drill at about half-speed. It will take some time to get through the glass. The angle you hold your drill at will determine where and how the downstem sits in the bottle. About a 45 degree angle on the glass where I put my downstem works well.
Once the hole is made, rise the bottle out very well, and dry the outside. Put your downstem in the hole, and use some putty to make the air seal.
Pack a bowl, and enjoy 🙂
Can you not use a pin vice? Pretty much all hobby shops sell them, and they're used for drilling super the super tiny holes needed to pin modified models, etc., with bits available in all sorts of sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RJE3X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474249537&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mini+pin+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=51qOueQLNmL&ref=plSrch
I feel like every plant lover should have a set if these. Or if you don't know what to get your plant loving friend... Get them these.
I find awesone pots all the time for cheap at ross, or goodwill, then just drill my own holes! Free yourselves from the agony of a beautiful pot at a great price with nooo holeeesss.
Same here. My best gift so far has been this:
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2
Awesome. Just awesome.
Do you mean the deck screws? If so, just get a countersink bit (available at any hardware store), unscrew and discard your current screws, use the countersink bit in the wholes you have already made and screw in new screws.
If you mean the other screws (the pan head sheet metal screws), unscrew them and use the other type of screws.
TL;DR Unscrew screws, countersink, screw new screws.
Edit: Linked to correct product. I had the wrong type.
Only $10!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/
Hmmm.....
If you go to Home Depot, see if there are any scraps of pressure treated lumber you can pick up for cheap. If you can get, say, a 12" length of 4"x4" (actual: 3.5"x3.5"), and if we assume your tubes are 10mm outside diameter (about .4") then you can put...(does math stuff)...128 tubes into it.
Fair warning: I'd have to fucking kill you if I found this cache.
Pick any of the four "long" faces of the wood. Parallel to each edge, draw a line 1/4" from the edge. The large middle area will be 12" long by 3" wide. In that space draw a 3/4" grid; that'll give you a 4x16 grid. At each intersection inside the grid (not along the edges) drill a 1/2" hole straight down 1" into the wood. (The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the tube so as to fit the tube and the glue that will hold it in. I'm assuming a 10mm tube, but if the tube diameter is different then the hole diameter should be different too.) That'll give you 45 holes.
Flip the wood over and repeat the process for another 45 holes.
Now turn the wood on its "side" (one of the two sides that have no holes) and repeat the process again — only this time drill only the middle column of 15 holes. (You can't do the other two columns because they'll intersect the previously-drilled holes.)
Flip the wood over and repeat for another 15 holes.
Stand the board on end (so you're looking at a cut end). Parallel to each 3.5" edge, measure out and draw lines 1 3/8" from each edge. You should have an out-of-proportion tic-tac-toe board. At each of the four intersections, drill another 1/2" hole 1" deep.
Flip the wood over (so you're looking at the opposite cut end) and repeat for another four holes.
Sand the surfaces lightly to remove all of your lines, and blow out any dust from the holes. Spray a bit of water into each hole, pour a couple of drops of Gorilla Glue inside, then press a tube into it. Repeat for the other 44 holes. When you're done flip it upside-down, put a weight on top of it, and let the glue set. Repeat for each of the other sides and the ends.
Make one (1) log scroll and put it randomly into a tube. Make 127 other scrolls that say nothing but "NOPE!" or "WRONG ONE!" or "SORRY!" or "TRY AGAIN!" and use them to fill up the other tubes. (Make sure the type is big and fat enough — and printed on both sides — so that people can't use them as logs to sign.)
Hide, publish, and prepare for (more) death threats.
EDIT: Call the cache "16 Bytes" because it has 128 bits in it. :-)
Cool stuff!
Here's one thing- when stacking them improves the sound, I'm wondering if that's just due to having more resonant coupled mass. Try not stacking them but instead put something heavy and rigid (old HDDs, cordless drill battery, a brick, etc) on top of the drives. See if you get a similar effect. Also try putting something heavy on top of the stack...
By resonant coupled mass I mean material that gets the vibrations of the drive transferred to it, and thus helps with putting those vibrations into the air. Thus bolting the drives down to the board will help a lot. But let's come back to that.
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To build your box, you really only need a couple of tools and parts, which I'll link you to now.
Cordless Drill
Cheap Drill Bits
Circular Saw (a jigsaw is also OK)
Set of 4 clamps
Carpenter's Square
Angle Brackets
Wood Screws (probably want some 1/2 inch screws too for the brackets)
A piece of 1x2 wood moulding or similar
A piece of quality 1/2" plywood or MDF
Feel free to substitute whatever's on offer at your local big box home improvement store, it's the concepts that matter not the specific models of things. With that stuff you can build almost anything, your little box will be a snap.
The key with all that- use two of the clamps to clamp the board you're cutting down to the table. Then use the other two clamps to clamp a 2-4' piece of moulding down to the board. The moulding then serves two purposes: Along with the square and a pencil, it lets you draw a very straight and very long line along where you want to cut, and then when you move the molding back a bit (by the exact distance between the edge of the saw's skid plate and the sawblade), it forms a guide for the edge of the circular saw skid plate to slide against, giving you a perfectly straight cut even from a handheld saw.
Note: always cut with the saw facing away from you or your body, and keep your fingers away from the path of the blade! Let the tool do the cutting, don't force it. When you drill a hole for a screw, pick the drill bit that's as wide as the screw shaft (not the screw teeth).
I suggest using more angle brackets to rigidly mount the floppy drives to the casing itself. Obviously brackets that have the hole in a place which holds the drive flush against the casing are preferred. Angle brackets come in all different sizes, and you can always just drill another hole through the bracket if you need to. A larger angle bracket could hold both the upper and lower drive. Or for a stack of two drives, mount one to the inside of the main casing, and the other to the outside of the HDD casing.
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Now back on audio. A box like you designed might really help, especially if the back is closed as you're creating a cavity which focuses all the sound forward.
However you should also get a better microphone. If as you say it sounds great in person, well, that isn't being captured well on your video. The video is seriously lacking in bass- floppys make a great raspy bass and that doesn't come over well in the video. :(
I suggest an external mic, something which will stay right next to the drives and enclosure. There are also portable audio recording gadgets which have a good mic built in, I'm thinking something like this.
(Random sidenote- that's why the clapper slate exists, seeing the clap on film and hearing it on a separately-recorded audio track is used to sync up the video with the audio...)
For reference, consider how What is Love has really strong bass, but has a good quality mic right there.
Also production wise- what that guy sometimes does is first record half the drives with the mic right next to them, then record the other half of the drives with the mic right next to them, then sync the recordings and make the two (mono) recordings into the L and R of a stereo track and lay it over the video of the drives moving which is recorded without any microphone...
Hope that helps!
here's one of the higher rated sets on amazon and seems like a good place to start
Edit-fixed the link! 😊
Drill them yourself!
I use this technique with drill bits like these.
For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.
If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.
If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.
Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357
The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:
Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue
Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.
Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.
Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.
In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.
Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.
You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.
I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash
Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/
Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.
Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.
Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.
Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.
Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84
Hopefully this helps!
EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)
Cross drilling or boring?
If you're boring, I'd make a treadle or spring-pole lathe. You'll get your exercise with either approach.
If you're cross drilling, some manner of post drill. Not strictly speaking a hand tool, but depending on your tolerances, what you want will be painful/difficult without the mechanical advantage of the press. I'd worry an egg beater drill wouldn't take the abuse, a brace might work. A breast drill, if you have one, would probably be best.
In any case, you'd want something like this to keep the hole square: https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Tools-STD1000DGNP-V-Drill-Guide/dp/B0061FY004/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527041033&sr=8-4&keywords=v+drilling+guide
Most likely, with primitive tools, the right approach is heating the steel and punching the cross hole.
As everyone is pointing out the need for drainage, it can be done very easily by anyone with just a regular power drill and one of these kinds of bits.
Pour a little water on the surface you're drilling into and wear eye protection (as you should be doing when you're drilling anything anyway!) Let the bit do the work and you'll get nice, clean holes pretty quickly.
I've had better luck with this type: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO
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I haven’t tried yet, myself. I’m going to get some of these , I think. Also, as I understand it, you want to go slow & frequently cool things down with water. Good luck!
There are other kinds/brands of bits that can do the job, but I'm a fan of these.
Just go but an easy out set.
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GK.BDb32A3JAT
This might be a better set.
8 piece Screw Extractor Set,Damaged Screw Broken Bolt Water Pipe Remover Set By Nizzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TY8Y87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0.BDbDKJD770
Get the tools in the picture. They're great, and relatively cheap.
You have a welder, a digital level and a Dremel.....but not a $10 set of hole saws?
As a toolmaker/CNC programmer, your methodology made me twitch, but I can't argue with your results!
this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.
http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA
You'd be better off with a guide like this:
Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_alA0xbMA692QH
A drill guide like this will work. They lack the absolute precision of a drill press, and definitely not built for daily use, but for an occasional DIYer who can't justify drill press, it gets the job done.
diamond drill bits are useful for that, here
First: That filament is on amazon for a couple bucks less:
https://smile.amazon.com/Filabot-T6451-Taulman-Nylon-Filament/dp/B00TOOBUA2/
Second, I'd ask your sister for more information on what printer he has. But I'll make a few wild speculations based on the filament linked and the brief description.
Hobbyist, 1.75 mm nylon, possibly no heated bed, probably 0.4 mm nozzle,
https://smile.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230/ - Good for cleaning 0.4 mm nozzles
https://smile.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimension-Accuracy/dp/B01DWMMJTW/ - Everybody wants to try GitD at least once. Some people have shown that printing with it can reduce the lifetime of the nozzle.
https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SFQ/ - same thing with wood filament
https://smile.amazon.com/10-100pcs-Neodymium-Strong-Magnets-MarbellStore/dp/B01LYFG2F3 - You can usually find a reason to throw a magnet inside a 3D print. This particular one won't ship before Christmas, but you can probably find some locally.
https://www.adafruit.com/products/3055 - Raspberry Pi can always be thrown into a project of some sort.
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Finally, some older links:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/22hh2q/i_have_a_rostock_kit_on_the_waywhat_accessories/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3u3v3h/3d_printing_holiday_gift_guide_what_3d_printers/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3bmpam/what_accessories_should_every_3d_printing_maker/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3w1r7q/just_bought_a_printer_heres_a_list_of_the_tools/
I bought these and they work great. QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10, 12mm) Multi-Material Drill Bit Set for Tile,Concrete, Brick, Glass, Plastic and Wood Tungsten Carbide Tip Best for Wall Mirror and Ceramic Tile on Concrete and Brick Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5LqJDbYK679T1
Just take it nice and slow without applying too much pressure. I've drilled into ceramic and glass without any problems.
Just aim to buy drill bits the same size as the magnets you plan to use. I've been using K&J and picked this set up and I've not been having any problems, it's also nice for drilling out gun barrels and the like thanks to the variety of sizes it has.
I use a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000302Z3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465749577&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dremel+drill+bits&dpPl=1&dpID=413x6KLCXBL&ref=plSrch
Yeah that hole doesn't look too good TBH. Hopefully it didn't damage the threads. The smallest one in the kit I showed you has a minimum of 2.5mm but it should still work on the 2mm screw. You can also find a spare 2mm allen key you don't need and use the strongest Gorilla glue you can find and glue it onto the screw. Slowly try to unscrew it after an hour or so. Take it to your LBS and see if they can help. There's also this which goes as low as M3
Edit. Just looked at the other angle pic you posted. Screw extractor most likely won't work. Try the allen key method.
Protip: use a 2" hole saw on your drill. Makes nice big holes. Make your tools do the work for you. You can find a hole saw with a mandrel (the center thingie) at any hardware store. Or order a kit on the cheap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZAEY8
I have all of the resources booked marked and ready to go. Plan on starting this project when Spring rolls in. Hope these helps!
Hand drill I purchased:
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451452019&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+vise
Magnetizing guides:
http://macharianthunderguard.blogspot.com/2015/09/kingdom-death-monster-unboxing-and.html
http://roguepainter.com/kingdom-death-survivor-magnetization-tutorial/
Magnets I plan on purchasing (also used in the guides):
1x1mm
^ Woops the 1x1mm I linked are sold out. But you can look up and buy any 1x1mm neodymium magnets on ebay.
1x2mm
2x2mm
someone here recommended these to me. I just got them in the mail but haven't had a chance to try them yet.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Based on this frequently bought together item that comes up with it, I don't think most people are using this tool to make glasses.
General outline straight cuts using a wet tile saw, then use tile snippers for countouring.
There's a lot of options for drilling the holes.
Pen turning is an excellent hobby! For making pens, some things you'll need might include:
Note: Of course there are a million ways to do everything. I don't promote any of the links, they're just examples to show what the tools look like.
The taper is a 2. This is the one I bought. Works great.
Get an installer bit that's 54 in or 72 in, you'll make way fewer holes. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/
Also a boroscope is great to make sure you don't hit any electrical wiring.
https://www.amazon.com/ANWA-Professional-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B075FGMW6T/
Super easy! With this set of bits , At first I used one from the hardware store that was expensive, but made small holes and took FOREVER.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just have like a 30 dollar drill from Walmart. I put the piece on my door mat on my porch, pour a little water (You don't need a hose but I have about a cup of water and add a little as needed) I start the drilling at an angle and then slowly raise it up until its straight up and down. Having a sticker on the bottom helps to have something for the bit to grab into. I'll try and do a video as it's way easier than the videos I saw on Youtube. You do want to have your hand on the piece though, the only thing I broke was because the drill went through the bottom and swung the piece around, that's before I was doing it on the mat to help with slippage.
I don't know anything about dowels, but if the OP is talking about the need to drill perpendicular holes, I just picked up this jig and I like it so far for general woodworking:
Milescraft 1312 DrillBlock
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There's another style that might be more precise for dowels since you can buy more bushing sizes. For example:
Dowel drill bit guide
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And if you need more angles than just 90 degrees, there are hand drill guides like this one:
Milescraft 1318 Drillmade drill guide
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Edit: I don't necessarily recommend the specific models in the 2nd and 3rd links. They were just the first examples I came across.
This thing solves all those annoying "where the fuck's my wrench" problems
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1
You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.
For the cables below the desk, I would suggest adding these things to the bottom of the desktop or on the wall behind the desk just below the desktop to clean up cables:
Above the desk, some velcro ties and maybe some braided cable sleeving should help clean up.
I think the best look is to have every wire coming out of the back of the PC geting wrapped up in 1 sleeve, then dropping below the desk (via a grommet) into the J cable raceway into the mounted cable management box, then 1 power cable comes off of there to the outlet.
Lastly, here are some grommet drills, grommets and some monitor mounts with cable management built in. The mounts will help clear up some deskspace (I have LG ultrawides and that half circle stand base eats up some space) as well as provide some ports for keyboard and mouse.
Get an 18mm or larger forstner bit and a depth gauge or drill guide. http://www.rockler.com/jig-it-drill-guide or like this https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484608162&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+guide
and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-180-31-Forstner-32-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4HLGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484608191&sr=8-1&keywords=18mm+forstner
It might be worth while getting a bit slightly oversized for epoxy squeeze out or magnets with holes for screws in the center to hold everything in place.
Not the best option, but, it is relatively inexpensive, and will get to you in 2-days:
Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i-ptxb4CC034N
Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).
A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".
My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.
This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA
If you have a walmart nearby they should have some. Amazon should have them too. This Kit would work, and you could have different sizes for coils or making air holes bigger.
Edit: Just noticed the reviews, looks like they might suck for drilling air holes. But they would work fine for wrapping on.
What metal, and how thick?
Mild steels and softer (Copper, aluminum, tin, etc) can be drilled with a standard hand drill and drill bit.
Unless you're drilling holes in tool-steel or tungsten or the like you can use standard off-the-shelf drill bits.
TL;DR - Unless it's something extremely hard, you can get a set of drill bits that will do the job for $5
I've used these to drill through glass and tile. Take your time and they get the job done. Its only four holes after all.
I think maybe it's this one
I'll grab a couple of these that I've learned in the past several months, as I'm also quite new here.
I'm going to stop there and hope others will finish the rest and also give their own answers to the first 4, since, as I mentioned, I'm new myself!
Super awesome mini! I still have my Deathguard guys to paint so I'm going to save the picture for reference use;)
A little tip for improvement maybe: Get one of those tiny hand drills with tiny drillbits and gift it to your husband. He can drill a little barrel into the front of the gun which looks even more amazing ;)
Edit:I just checked. It is called a Pin Vice
You could probably drill it out by hand with just a drill bit if you don't want to spend the money on a complete drill / dremel. Or there's always a hand drill kit, like this. Hardware would probably have one.
It's worth it to support it, though. The position of the break means there will be maximum shear stress on the join. Without a support it's much more likely to fall off. If the contact area was bigger I wouldn't worry about it, but in this case it's quite small compared to the weight it's supporting, so I'd really recommend an internal pin.
So I posted in /r/woodworking and got a pretty good suggestion that is going to work.
For drilling the holes, I ordered a micro drill set that allows me to drill my pilot holes with a small finger drill. This is effective and gives me much more control than attempting to use a power drill (and works just fine).
Then just another note for aligning the sections - in the same woodworking thread they recommend using transfer points. This is a good technique that I was familiar with but will mention. Basically once you have your pilot, you put a specialized plug into the hole where the the plug is built with a sharp tip pointing out of its center. After I've drilled my two pilots in the railing top and bottom rails, I'll put a transfer point into each of those pilot holes, then lightly use the transfer points to "poke" and leave a small target mark in the end newel post. Then I know exactly where to drill my second pilot so that my support dowel will line up.
Thanks for the comments!
> The Lathe:
Sounds like you've got this well under control.
> The Tools:
There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)
Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!
You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.
There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.
If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.
Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.
> The Bench Grinder:
The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.
Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.
Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).
> Drill Press?
A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.
The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).
The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.
> Pen turning attachments
If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
Something like this clamped to the workpiece would probably do the trick.
https://www.amazon.com/BIG-GATOR-TOOLS-STD1000DGNP-V-Drill/dp/B0061FY004?sa-no-redirect=1
For most work, it is best to practice and be able to drill perpendicular (just like sawing). However, sometimes that is not precise enough, especially when learning.
If you can get one time access to a drill press, take a nice peice of quatersawn hardwood about an inch thick (quatersawn for the dimensional stability, hardwood for the longevity) and drill perpendicular holes in it in an array of sizes. Then take that home and use it to guide your holes.
If you can't get drill press access, you can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gator-V-DrillGuide-Standard-Portable-Drilling/dp/B0061FY004/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422745605&sr=8-3&keywords=perpendicular+drill+guide
However, like I said at the start, don't use it as a crutch and try to get the most perpendicular holes you can freehand. In most cases, a hole can be a little off and it will be fine.
Here is a cheaper guide that has good but few reviews. The Big Gator one has a lot of good reviews so it is likely pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1312-Drill-Block/dp/B00F1ZJFZK/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SE5GY0HRH6XMM2TTCRD
Gotcha, some similar cracking happened to me a while back (see my post history; it's El Bongquistador). Sucks, dude, but it'd probably be advisable to start again, and use a diamond-tipped drill bit to make the hole for the downstem. It looks like you're using a 9mm bowl or something on the smaller end, so you could use something like this and rent a drill from Home Depot or something to that effect to make a cleaner cut. If it cracked pretty badly as you suggest, there's likely a risk of microshards being mixed into the water and aerosolized by the bubbling as you pull and it's not worth cheaping out on proper tools at the expense of your lungs.
I’m like you, just a guy doing his own cabling at home. So not professional advice, just my experience.
Like others have said the fibreglass push rods are amazing. Could also look at the magnetic pullers; one magnet goes on cable inside wall, dragged down by magnet on outside. If firechecks turn to an issue this may help.
You don’t need a $100 punchdown tool, but if you have the money it’s up to you. I just got a $30ish (AUD) one, so not the $10 Asian one but a step up. Super cheap ones more often then not will do shit punches. I’d recommend going one with a 110 blade rather then krone, but that’s up to you.
For crimps I’m super suuuuuper happy I swapped to using one that worked with pass-thru style jacks.
I’d highly recommend getting a fairly decent stripper though, just makes life so much easier when it comes to not nicking conductors.
A nice trick for multiple runs, run something like clothes line first. Then tape your cable along side the line letting the line and drag through. Once that cables done, tape off to that same end and pull back the opposite way. Means you only have to fish the wall once and the line is being dragged back and forth not the cable.
Last but not least, always test your cables when you’re done.
You can get special bits on amazon. Like these https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=drill+glass&qid=1569519750&s=gateway&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_HU8-yb2HD7P35 these have been perfect! Just stop every minute or so or if you hear squeaking and pour water on the area you're drilling and you're good to go.
Unless your wet saw has an actual specified "glass blade", you might find it will chip the glass as well as the backer paint. Not to mention being really slow. You'll find a Score and snap tile cutter much easier to cut that glass with. Cleaner cuts and way quicker.
Start in any corner. Throw the odd level line on with a pencil as you go up. And don't use mastic (glue). Use a white thinset with a 3/16ths" V-notch.
Use one of these bits to drill your holes. Hold a wet sponge against the bit as you drill. Shouldn't take more than 30-60 seconds per hole.
Yes! Do it. I was riding that high for days drilling holes in everything. I know for a fact my boyfriend is hiding mugs and glasses from me but cant prove anything yet.
I bought a big glass fishbowl, drilled a hole and put my fern in it.
You can drill holes in the rims of pots and hang them with twine and s hooks. I’m still realizing the full potential.
For reference, I bought a $40 black and decker hand drill and these drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO
I start the drill out on full blast with barely any pressure and then apply greater pressure gradually. Always keep water on it as others mentioned. Hope that’s helpful and good luck :)
I have this bit set which was super cheap on Amazon, and I have used those to put drainage holes in TONS of ceramic pots! It's super easy, I spray water on them to keep the temp down while drilling, and take it at a medium speed.
My tip for starting the hole (that's the hard part), is to start at an angle, get a groove in it, and slowly tilt the drill up until the circle is flat on the surface. I haven't broken or cracked one yet. :)
You could try one of these drill guides . It’s sort of like a portable drill dress. Will probably still be tricky with forstner or spade bits though.
Something like this (https://www.amazon.ca/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=asc_df_B014A1Z92I/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292949808887&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6187848914128197040&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000694&hvtargid=pla-437180793075&psc=1) would be cheaper but would drill straighter holes than free handing it
Like the other guys said, its a pilot bit+drill bit+countersink.
I have the modern, replaceable bit, version set from Dewalt for prepping decking for screws. I love them
Splitting the wood -- other than pilot holes being too small, you might also try to countersink the wood to suit the screw heads, too.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2535-Piece-Countersink-Assortment/dp/B0000225OU/
It is This
Yes it acts as a pilot hole too, except the bit at the top bores a hole for the head of a screw.
These are what I'm used to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225OU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407665594&sr=1-1
I don't think metric/imperial is much of an issue of you're working with wood. You can always look up a conversion chart to make sure.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3
Check out this pin vice at hobby lobby for 8 bucks, you can even combo the daily 40% off coupon and get it for dirt cheap:
pin vice: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/swivel-head-pin-vise-618991/
nice set of bits: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398360531&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits
coupon: https://m.hobbylobby.com/coupon
> Acastus Knight Porphyrion
I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.
For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.
My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.
I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.
The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.
I use this and this to cover my barrel sizes, start small adjust as needed, always start a pilot hole with an xacto or similar.
I think the people saying, "DONT BUY BATTERY DREMELS!" don't really have experience with the latest Li-Ion dremels. The one I bought has 2 Li-ion batteries and a 1 hour charger. I never have downtime with how I use it. I use to be on the "no battery!" train too, until this Dremel.
I use mine for making decorative patterns on canes, cutting nails/bolts, sanding, drilling, screwing, etc. I get at LEAST an hour worth of solid work out of mine. If you're planning to use it as a router, or some other heavy duty task, then I would just an actual router or get a corded Dremel. For how I use it, the ease of use and the fact that it came with two batteries to give me 2 hours of solid Dremel use means that I haven't needed to use my corded Dremel since I bought the new cordless one.
Here is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARTBY6
Hate fucking with Dremel Collets?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302ZV Best Dremel add on ever.
If I were doing it, I'd make a pattern from a 1/4 piece of MDF by:
it involves some specialty tools, but they are inexpensive and it provides a way to make a perfectly routed circle of very precise dimensions.
here's a video that shows how pattern cutting works with a router
Maybe this, but it is really not good with hand held drills
General Tools 55 Heavy Duty Circle Cutter. Adjustable 1-3/4 Inch to 7-7/8 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mRIqybDSME4FH
If cutting in drywall, not wood, Hole Pro T-200 1-5/8" to 8" Adjustable Hole Cutter - Hole Saw for Recessed Lighting Speakers. Twin High Speed Steel HSS Blades use ¼ Drill Power of a Hole Saw to Cut Sheetrock Plastic Soft-woods https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oSIqybF27HZMP
If you can use a drill press:
These are scary as crap, but they do the job: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1
This is what you're looking for, screw extractors. Cut the head flat, center punch, drill out, then use the left handed extractor bit to remove the bolt
I did this to a valve cover bolt or two, over tightening them to avoid leaks. It sucks, but it happens. These solve the problem.
Note: some WD-40/penetrating oil and heat can make the process go easier, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
You could use something like this kit, i have one and it very useful. Just make sure you measure your binding post size and cross check to see if this kit comes with the size you need.
IRWIN Tools Hanson Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece, 11119 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CPgQBb1RK76C6
Got a picture? Maybe a left hand drill bit along with a screw extractor bit, if you have room?
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8 (but they do make better ones out there too)
Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.
If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor
These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.
If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)
Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)
Typically, a drill and the appropriately sized hole saw bit are what you would use.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466287521&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+press+attachment+for+hand+drills
Use one of these.
That, with the proper speed (too slow is better than too fast) and some oil and you'll be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416019787&sr=8-2&keywords=sontax+drill
No comments on drill bushings, but I have something nearly identical to the linked guide, and with a better (corded) drill I think it'd be fairly accurate. I've only used it for rough work (deliberately). Might be worth considering. Certainly cheaper than bridge city stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA
I used this guide for a project a few years ago. I wasn't thrilled with the build quality of this model when I opened it but it got the job (6, ~1.5"x6" deep holes 90deg to the surface) done.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
OK FINALLY got it right.
I will post this here and in a new thread. This is my final stand and it is a good one. It is the FINALLY formula with a small tweak.
See below for links to all products.
Employ the JimOakey set up. Wear protective gloves and eye wear.
Very nice, comfortable high. Should last at least 4 session depending how intense you huff.
JimOakey's set up please go find it and do as it says. I re-posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/popperpigs/comments/3k1i6j/adventures_in_popper_production/ Those who do; I will give enough details so you will not need to review the posts.
Sodium Nitrite here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L74HO5M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Isobutyl alcohol. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S08MB2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Battery Acid: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-acid-cycle-acid/2030000-P?searchTerm=battery+acid
Mixer device: http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452057063&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+drill+press
Put in a plastic container like this:https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrB8qAYo4xW_WUAdiMunIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzdWtmaWIxBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMzMTBmNWZjMzU4NDAwY2Q1ZGM4NWE1YjRjMzQ2YzE0NgRncG9zAzIwBGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dplastic%2Bbottles%26fr%3Dyhs-mozilla-001%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26hsimp%3Dyhs-001%26hspart%3Dmozilla%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D20&w=500&h=500&imgurl=cdnll.freundcontainer.com%2Fimages%2F500%2F3390B01NAT-Condiment-Bottles.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freundcontainer.com%2Fplastic-condiment-bottles-ldpe%2Fp%2Fv3390B01NAT%2F&size=11.9KB&name=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&p=plastic+bottles&oid=310f5fc358400cd5dc85a5b4c346c146&fr2=piv-web&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&tt=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&b=0&ni=21&no=20&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12cmkin1v&sigb=14a3rnv76&sigi=125l9qmk1&sigt=11eiodf26&sign=11eiodf26&.crumb=pIsY04NLJw4&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&fr2=piv-web&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
Lots of option here. From the incredibly simple (and not as accurate for a very deep hole) to the more secure to the more intricate setups where there is a separate chuck and you can set angles if you want to. Look around a bit and figure out what the easiest way for you to securely clamp the drumstick is gonna be then I guess decide from there what option you want to go with, that will also give you enough travel to be able to drill out the full length of the stick.
Edit: also something to keep in mind is the longer the hole, the more resistance you are gonna get so depending on the size of your hole the drag might get a bit excessive.
yeah, if I had to guess, for a chain lock on a door, I suspect those screws would be quite beefy, which would make them difficult to turn by hand.
If I were doing this task, I would certainly grab my drill, Id drill a 1/8" pilot hole, than screw the screws in.
For that you would need this as well https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-15557-Drill-10-Piece/dp/B000RH22WA/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000RH22WA&pd_rd_r=65QE3ETZGVR6A835WKD2&pd_rd_w=W1W87&pd_rd_wg=XC81C&psc=1&refRID=65QE3ETZGVR6A835WKD2
good point, it does come with 2 bits, so your covered on that side.
The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit
Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.
Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.
Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.
IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit
A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.
That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.
Rebuilding Materials
An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.
28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.
Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils
This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)
Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.
Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.
Buy one of these.
Attach it to a drill, and bore through the glass by letting the drill bit do all the work.
Run water on the drillbit while it's grinding through the glass, it prevent cracks from forming.
Yeah, probably. I typically used an impact driver (similar to this one http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1398885605&sr=1-2) anyway, and it's rare that the bit comes out of the head with that. Stripping the wood is much more common.
I love my makitas. The LCT set is good for most people. The LXT 211 or 218 are slightly more powerful for people who use their tools every day. I own the 211 set and love it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2DSE2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00
Lightweight, compact, and powerful. Battery lasts for a long time and recharges fast. Don't waste any money on cheaper cordless drills.
hardware stores around me didnt carry the small drill bit that i needed. so i bought this from amazon ----->>>>> link
I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.
First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.
Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.
Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.
I'd also suggest getting a Pin Vise to hold together the parts. I'm not a fan of depending solely on glue with metal parts.
In case you don't know what a Pin Vice is, it's a small, pen shaped, manual drill that you use to drill a hole, big enough to insert a pin into your model. This way you can add a firm set to where your model pieces join together.
note, they are right about the mandrel, but if you want to drill the blank on the lathe, you'll need a jacobs chuck and a regular one. I got a cheap Grizzly and it works great on my harbor freight lathe(18x10)
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8049-6-Inch-4-Jaw-1-Inch/dp/B000M63176/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192165&sr=8-6&keywords=lathe+chuck
http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192244&sr=8-1&keywords=jacobs+chuck
Side note, some pen kits are fine to turn between centers but a mandrel is certainly the safest.
Don't sweat it, I have the same lathe. It's not some one off oddball, so you can find anything you want for it, just like the Jet mini's and stuff.
I have this chuck, these pen jaws, and this pen mandrel. Oh, and this drill chuck.
The chuck comes with everything you need to get started with bowls and such. All the other stuff I use for pens.
In short, ya you probably should get a drill press. It doesn't have to be big or fancy. It doesn't have to be new.
The other option that's finicky but will at least drill 90ish degree holes is this
It looks like what I do is different from what everyone else is suggesting but...
I use one of these bits. To start the hole, Ill put 2-3 layers of painters tape down and drill through that. It helps keep it from sliding around.
As for speed/pressure/heat. I go full speed the whole time (stopping occasionally to get the dust out of the way and check my progress). The only pressure I apply is the weight of my drill. Just enough to grind away. As for heat, I'll only drill 2 holes and then let the bit cool for a while but Ive never used water to cool as Im drilling.
I've gotten perfect holes ever since I switched to a non pointed bit and have never shattered a bottle so I hope you get some of the same luck!!
Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS
If anyone is interested in doing this, this is the bit you need from Amazon.
I would use this.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=J5EGT9THD1RC&keywords=klein+drill+bit+extension&qid=1563999563&s=gateway&sprefix=klein+drill+%2Caps%2C462&sr=8-4#customerReviews
​
Then not have to mess with any drywall.
Close.
Cut the hole in the wall and use a long flex bit to drill through the bottom of the wall from the top down.
Then just clip the wire to the end (these bits have holes in) and pull it up. This is called an 'installation' drill bit, it's exactly what the pros would use for this.
usually a hole in the headers, drilled with a long drill bit
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW
or, if you have access to the attic, drill down and fish the wire with a fish tape
Yeah everything looks right in there. I still think its a clog. If turning up the heat made the quality better, that indicates a flow issue. I would bet if you turned the speed to like 30, it would be better as well. Clog can be a misnomer, as you can still have decent flow, but not perfect flow with a clog. Get a set of these to help if needed. I used the lead on a resistor for a while but its not exactly .4mm.
I had a pesky clog that wouldn't come out. What I ended up doing was heat up the machine, push a bit of filament, ream the drill bit in and out and twisting the whole time. I felt something come loose but it still wasn't 100%, even after pulling the filament. So then I put the drill bit in about 1-2mm and cooled down the hot end while spinning the bit the whole time so the plastic wouldn't catch it. Then at around 100C I pulled out the drill bit and pulled the filament out. This was so I could be sure that the clogging element didn't seat itself in the exit and resist coming out with the rest of the filament. Since then, i've been golden.
I use Kamo 5PCS 0.4mm Drill Bits for 3D MakerBot Printer Nozzle Cleaning Kit $7.00 always when the hot end was hot. But since I started removing the filament when I was done with the printer for the next few hours, I've not had any need to use them. Not a single clog.
Bits like these, plus lots of patience and hand cramps.
I did it without a drill press - did it by hand without an aid actually, but I've been doing woodworking for a while so I'm pretty comfortable with that. I know you can get a drill that has a bubble level on the back, which is great if you have that. There are also drill guides like this one.
These are the bits I got from Amazon, I haven’t broken anything yet! ;)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0751893Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523296808&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=6mm+glass+drill+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=417He%2BJmkoL&ref=plSrch
Assuming you have a drill, these aren't hard to use. Keep it flooded with water while cutting and go slow.
Use a counter sink and tapered head screws, like drywall screws to install the tub.
counter sink will make the screw heads flush with the surface on the tiling flange.
Counter sink example
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2535-Piece-Countersink-Assortment/dp/B0000225OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408325845&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+bit+with+countersink
Careful tightening the screws, if you use a drill to drive them in set the clutch so you don't over tighten and crack the flange, might be best to do the final tighten by hand.
You can shim gaps under the screws with cedar shims. ( flange does not touch the stud ) then cut the shims off.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/36-count-16-red-cedar-shims-656434.aspx?utm_source=pla&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=brand=nelson%20wood%20shims%20and%20adwords_labels=hardware&utm_campaign=rkg&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&creative=20650488858&adpos=1o4
What about the bits with the counter sink built into the top?
These ones?
You did a good job with fit and finish. One thing I like to do when using screws is to countersink... I think it really improves the project. Take a look at this link below. You can drill a pilot hole and countersink in one swoop:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225OU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525891819&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51QMLOynRSL&ref=plSrch
I just installed 4 spikes on my banjo. Placed them at the A, B, C and D frets on the fifth string. I installed the spikes facing inward (opening towards the other strings). I used this set of drill bits to drill the holes to set the spikes in:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3
I used the 1/32" (.03125") bit, which was very close to the diameter of the spikes, drilling the holes with the drill bit just touching the string and 3/8" back from the fret. I put a dab of Elmer's glue on the spike and inserted them with needle nose pliers. I used a .015 feeler gauge under the spike as I pressed them into place (no hammering). Then I masked off the fret board and filed the sharp edges away from the tops and sides of the RR spikes.
They work great, and only pull the string slightly sharp, but a quick retune is no big deal. I can still fret the string if I want to, barely being able to tell they are there.
It only took about 30 minutes. The longest part was the drilling, using a hand drill and being careful not to press to hard and break the tiny bit. Here are two links which helped me out:
http://www.deeringbanjos.com/blogs/faqs/10318861-how-to-install-spikes
http://zeppmusic.com/banjo/spikes.htm
I used these Dremel Drill bits on a regular drill to make the holes bigger on my IGO-L Cap. I didn't use the first one because it was the same size as the stock hole. I used the second one and tested after I cleaned it up. It wasn't enough for me so I went with the next size up, 1/16th I believe and that worked out for me. I've since used that bit to drill out an RSST and a mini DID clone.
What I was thinking about doing is superimposing the G10 plate over the intel bracket and making markings through the C holes.
I found this Dremel drill bit set on amazon.com, do you think any of these bits will be the correct size and do you think a Dremel tool has enough torque to drill through the Intel bracket?
Although costly (total outlay $30 for Dremel tool and bits) this approach would allow me to cut the corners and drill the Intel bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3
Seriously though, you should fabricate these brackets and sell them for $30. People would buy them. You can purchase them in bulk from Corsair for $10-15, make a few holes, turn around and sell them for $25-30. You sell 2-3 a day that's some money for not a whole lot of work.
Adding the required shim and these would sell with the demand exceeding supply of the EVGA Hybrid kits.
Pay less for vastly superior performance (with x41, H100i)
EVGA wants $120 for their H55 rebrand.
$60 for an H55 and $25-30 for your kit that's a no brainer.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3
I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.
The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792250&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel+drill+press
Definitely magnets. Not just so that you can switch out weapon configurations to allow your units to adapt and change roles as you add more units to your army, but also to future-proof your collection.
GW likes to do things like make a certain weapon loadout stomp face in one codex, and then be mediocre in the next update. The most notable time that this happened to me, I had recently finished building four broods of tyranid termigants with fleshborers. 60 models. There was no other way to go in that codex; if you built your 'gants any other way, you were wasting points. The new 'dex came out, the weapons didn't work the same anymore, and you were a fool not to take devourers. That was a bad day.
Magnets don't take much time (I spend less time magnetizing parts than I do scraping mold lines), and they don't really take a substantial investment, either. Here are the tools I use: pin vice with different sized collets (in the handle), $9.95USD; Dremel bits to gradually increase the size of the hole, important to start with a guide hole and gradually work up to the size of your magnet, $6.21, 200x 3mmx1mm magnets, 4.01. For $20.17, you can make your units super versatile, and know that you won't have to buy a new squad if GW changes the rules.
Although you're new to the game, magnetizing is a cool skill set to have. You have a lot more latitude when you make army lists (especially important for players that are developing a feel for the game, army, or local metagame), you can make dual-purpose squads (need jump troops? Good thing there are magnets on those backpacks!), and you can keep GW from making you choose whether to buy 60 more 'gants or try to pry off all of their stupid little arms and replace them.
wow thanks! and uh would this drill set work ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Z3/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and are there anything different with magnets found on amazon? i would prefer to order everything from amazon since i have a prime membership, if not no biggie just wondering.
Pick up the Keyless Chuck to fit various sizes without having to swap out the collet.
I have a keyless chuck. You can get one on Amazon for $8.
I am considering purchasing this chuck attachment
https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV
as the chuck on the stock dremel only goes to schlage sized pin diameter, i want to modify american pins which are almost half that.
Pretty much, yes. I suggest getting a small chuck that way you can put anything with a shank 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in. It's also quicker than using lock collets. Dremmel brand cutting bits and stuff tend to be expensive, but there's not a whole lot of off brand stuff out there. Craftsman may make some. I would avoid Harbor Freight Tools at all costs. With tools, you get what you pay for.
This "rotary tool" is great. I got mine for $12 at Walmart. I've had it for 3 years now and it still works great. OP, I recommend this; it makes using attachments so much easier.
No worries happy to help.
As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.
Help Deciding Between 2 Methods To Cut Holes In Aluminium Sheets. I have this piece of aluminium that is part of a pc case that someone messed up cutting holes in. I need to cut about 6" diameter holes in it (its about 1/12" thick). It looks like my best options are circle cutters like these
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-5B-Standard-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
or a normal circular hole cutter like this
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB11S2JNVXXXXbAXVXXq6xXFXXXa/G-Brand-New-Top-Selling-5PCs-Set-font-b-Hole-b-font-Saw-Set-Drill-Bit.jpg
Which would be better? thanks!
yea i don't either. i had to go out buy a adjustable sized hole cutter and hook it up to my drill press.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-55-Circle/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418181774&sr=8-3&keywords=circular+hole+cutter
Generally I don't like using hole saws on metal. You can get metal hole saws, but wood hole saws (which are more common) will not work at all (or will ruin the hole saw)
If you don't already have a metal hole saw, I'd recommend a circle cutter.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Circle-Cutter/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1374189969&sr=8-4&keywords=circle+cutter
there is a circle cutter like this one but you will want a drill press capable of pretty slow speeds if you use that. I've heard horror stories about them coming loose and flying across the shop. I own one, but have never actually tried it out. mainly out of fear...
Something like this might help. I know how small that roll pin must be, but I am not certain one of these tools will be small enough for the job. Might be worth it, though. Otherwise, a trip to a professional gunsmith might be in order. Good luck!
Get a screw extractor set from Amazon. Just make sure to get one that comes with left hand drill bits. You can often get the screw out just with the left hand bits before even needing to use the extractor.
This is a good kit if you want a variety of sizes for anything like this in the future:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCy4Cb467MDW6
I like these kinds of kits, I have one like this (not sure which brand). Those reverse drill bits sometimes work better than the extractors.
I own this set, http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/10-pc-spiral-extractor-drill-bit-set-in-metal-index / https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-HANSON-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521322834&sr=8-3&keywords=irwin+screw+extractor+set&dpID=410DHljAW2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
and have used it once or twice. What I like about this one is the left handed drill bits. When you use the drill bit to round out the screw head, the left handed drill bits might just grab the screw and unscrew it for you.
https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=asc_df_B0002NYBH8/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292995173425&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13370702493849758587&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000649&hvtargid=pla-613176131032&psc=1
I have these Irwin left handed bit/extractor set. I generally end up using them for all kinds of holes, even when it's not a bolt or I'm not trying to extract it, they just seem to cut really well, especially at the price point. I think lowes or home depot carries them too.
I've had success extracting a broken bolt with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/
I'm sure any similar product will work.
I like this set, all the extractors come with a matching left handed drill bit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/
2" sspade bit with a hand drill is still pretty sketchy. You can get something like this instead.
drill and a 2in hole saw.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-120-Assortment-5-Piece/dp/B0009ZAEY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497455790&sr=8-1&keywords=2in+hole+saw
Okay, so this is the mandrel I want to get and the hole saw I want to use. This would be fine you say?
Hole saw sizes: 1 1/2" for the smaller/lower hole, and a 2" for the larger/upper hole. These sizes typically come standard with a hole saw kit ($14.02): https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-120-Assortment-5-Piece/dp/B0009ZAEY8/
NOTE! The official IKEA FIXA hole saw kit does not come with the correct corresponding sizes!
My specific hack requires a grommet to achieve a tight yet adjustable fit while utilizing standard hole saw sizes ($7.49): https://www.amazon.com/HYCC-Flexible-Desk-Grommet-Color/dp/B01KNXAPK8
Any particular advantage of a forstner bit over a hole saw?
E.g.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZAEY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484366877&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2%22+hole+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=51ypuzQ689L&ref=plSrch
Depends on the material the face plate is made of. If it's metal get a step bit, a decent drill and a drill guide
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY
https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519142267&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+guide
those should work.
If it's plastic I'd get some forsner bits depending on what size buttons you want
Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.
I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:
Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.
As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.
Parts I'm talking about:
Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.
Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.
Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)
Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.
Forstner bit as mentioned, and one of these is key for making the hole level, straight, and better than by hand:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/
I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.
Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.
Also - I don't have a drill press, so I'm considering getting one of these drill-holder-guides from Milescraft or Wolfcraft in order to control the drill during this operation.
You can buy an attachable jig for a hand drill like this one
I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This
It's a little small. It has a 208 mm swing, which is 8" in Freedom Units. That means its maximum depth is 4", which is too shallow for some bridge posts.
If you're looking to go cheap, and you're building from scratch instead of performing repairs and general shop projects, a cordless drill attachment will work for you.
There's only 6 or 8 holes to drill on a standard 6-string guitar, so while a drill press is very useful, it's not an absolute necessity.
That being said, having a drill press is awesome, and it's worth paying for a larger used one if you decide to invest in one. I have a used one with a 14" swing and it's an ideal size.
Ha. That's not a bad idea. Amazon.us btw.
How's this for common sizes? But then that isn't bits for all -- wood, masonry, metal.
I would love these because I'm hoping to buy the drill soon and want to be able to use it for some home projects.
I'm thrilled you are happy and your username is very inspiring.
would any drill bit fit a standard drill? i don't have a personal drill, but i'm looking to buy a glass drill bit and borrow a friend's for a diy project with a huge belvedere bottle
i was thinking about getting these http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Hole-Saw-Set/dp/B000SJ2TL6/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1324616893&sr=1-3
Glass Drill Bit
that one seems a bit big, possibly smaller ones are cheaper?
hole saw set - says diamond tipped
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Hole-Saw-Set/dp/B000SJ2TL6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-6
hole saw - 1 bit 3/4 inch
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5582-4-Inch-Diamond-Drill/dp/B000VRBENO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-1
dremel kit - must have a dremel for sufficiENT speeds
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Quality-20-Piece-Diamond-Point-Rotary-Tool/dp/B000MOI9G6/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-4
ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE and CUT ONCE
I used a half inch spade bit and it kinda cracked my first one
http://i.imgur.com/T9w9t.jpg
Has slide to bottom and then removable bowl
stuff at neck is hot glue for a air tight seal, glass was to thick for gromit that came with the slide
bottle cutter - for other fun things
http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Green-g2-Bottle-Cutter/dp/B004ZRV3AU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b
Thanks man :D and I used a 1/2 inch diamond drill bit and the rubber grommet is also 1/2 inch that I got at my local hardware store. Diamond Drill Bit Link
I'm gunna be a dick and say I told you so. But anyway... Here's a cheap set of bits that will last a long time if you take care of them properly.
SE DH6HS Diamond Hole Saw, 5/32-Inch by 1/2-Inch
http://amzn.com/B000SJ2TL6
You can cut an array of different sized holes with these.
As for the gravity bong idea you should take a look at the product called the kinkajou. It's basically a mounted glass cutter for bottles. If you've got some carpentry skills you can make a brace with your glass cutting tool to cut bottles perfectly. Honestly if you get the bits all you'll need is a hole. Here's a link to a homemade bottle cutter you can make with your glass cutter: https://homemade-modern.com/ep01-diy-herb-garden/
I have a makita drill and impact set and it's been flawless for 5 years. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Two years ago I built a privacy fence and wanted another impact driver with out the expense. I purchased the Ryobi bundle for $99.
I have had no issues with either, but as a home owner, Ryobi has so many other great affordable tools that the batteries work with.
https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/products/details/540
I purchased the Makita 18V Lithium Ion set linked earlier (http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2). I love them, they work great and the batteries charge fast. One thing I wish I did was get the LXT version, which has a larger battery. I don't want this for longer run time, although that would also be nice, but it would run the rest of the cordless tools that Makita sells. Things like a circular saw, sawzall, shoot even a friggin leaf blower can all run on the same batteries. So I find my self now wishing I had originally bought the bigger battery set.
This one specifically: Makita LXT 18V
Reason being, it has the compact impact driver that everyone loves, and the hammer drill (which can switch between hammer function or normal drill function).
TL;DR: I wish I bought Makita LXT 18V over the Maktita 18V
As a carpenter, this is the set that I prefer. The charge time and battery life is great and they both work very well.
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419307247&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+impact+driver+drill+set+18v
This is the kit I have. The smaller impact driver is phenomenal for about 99% of jobs, and lighter and more compact (as well as having a better heft or balance, IMHO) than most others.
I think Makita is an excellent brand. But the batteries are very small and low-power on that kit. If I where you, I'd spend a little more and get this instead: http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2 . I have an older version of that set and it has worked well for many years. Although even those batteries are small-ish for big projects (e.g. insufficient drilling holes and driving screws to deck small porch in one charge).
There are special drill bits designed to drill through ceramic. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ev8FybXJ3YC1D
Bosch GT2000 Glass and Tile Set, 4-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_v3S2tb0A3PR1RZD3
OK, I think the one I have like this is "carbide". I guess they mean tungsten carbide?
It happens. Pin vises aren't too bad, and neither are brushes depending on what you are looking for. Army painter brushes are good, but they are probably not the best bang for your buck, I just like them because they work for me and I am comfortable with the sizes.
This is one of the two pin vises that I have and the same bit collection. There are plenty of options for everything, though, and if you take it slowly you will amass quite a collection of models and tools. I think limiting your warhammer budget is a good idea too- that way you actually PAINT the models you get and they don't just sit around.
This kit is only $27 shipped and has all the magnets you'll need unless you really go nuts - then you might have to get some more of the middle size eventually.
You also need a pin vice drill
But if you really can't wait, just go really easy with super glue on the arm joints - as that is typically where you magnetize. I'll get some pics here in a sec and update this post.
EDIT Ok here's a quick and dirty magnet album so you can get a good idea of which spots to magnetize. On the Thunderwolves I magnetized the rider in the ass so I can transport them easier. The arms are magnetized for weapon swapping. I also magnetized the backpack of any dude that might ever equip a Jump Pack (blood claws can quickly become sky claws, rune priests are great with jump packs so they can deep strike and psych). Dreadnought arms are pretty obvious. I also magnetized the hand on my battle leader using the smallest magnet size so I could give him a plasma pistol or a combi weapon.
Who said it has to be more?
Just some background – my sister asked me if I could repair her young daughters glasses since the new ones will take weeks to arrive. I took a look at them and told her that I would give it a try.
I noticed that the hinge was broken like this so I came up with what I showed in the pictures. Basically the pin is acting as a dowel.
Just though I would share since this is very very easy to do if you are handy with tools.
The small drills and chuck can be found online. Example: https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/161-7421479-4802204?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H9VB2SA2D97TJHZ7KSDR&ref_=pd_aw_sbs_469_3
These are the one's I used: http://www.micromark.com/the-rogers-drill-bit-set-61-80-set-of-20,8027.html
Use a small drill bit- http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/sim/B001RJE3X8/2
and kill the leds one by one.
Pin the SA...
Use a small drill bit with a hand chuck and drill up into the hooves. Then drill corresponding holes in the base. Clip off sections of a paperclip, inject glue into holes, insert paperclips, attach model to base and let sit.
Suggest doing the same for the Phoenix model.
It all sounds hard, but takes literally 5 minutes. And here's a decent [hand drill set] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RJE3X8) that would work fine.
I don't have a drill press. I have had great success with the Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck and Drill Chuck. This works very well. Still need to tap it out slowly to prevent build up inside the tube.
You can also just use a drilling block. Not sure why he doesn't use one honestly.
Big Gator Tools STD1000DGNP V-Drill Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061FY004/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UgWMxb0DGJ8PZ
This little guy works just fine. Cheap, simple, accurate.
Big Gator Tools V-Drill Guide
I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.
> Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS
Okay that would do the job!! Gah I was going to do a single, large center hole with my angle-grinder (and put steel mesh over that) as I've got a plant needing re-potting and really want to use this one if possible, I wonder if I can find a bit like that locally am going to have to make some calls!
I was thinking you'd start out with 1/8" bits and then work your way up, boring bigger holes each time- if there's a 'doorknob'-type bit for ceramic that'd be ideal for me, would put a ton of 3/4" holes and call it a day! Time to see what local shops have because if I can't buy locally I'll probably just use the angle-grinder as I want to re-pot this guy right while he's starting to flower (right now is 3 days into setting flower buds)
You might want a bit like this: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375572778&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=glass+coring+bit.
It doesn't vibrate going through.
You mean like one of these? Might pick one up if you say they are better.
My house was all Cat 3 6 home runs to the exterior. I replaced it all with solid core Cat 6 and added two runs for wireless access points in the ceiling. It was a PITA. I home ran the new stuff to a network enclosure box I added.
Cat 3 is junk I've seen it send 100Mb or more inside a house but if you ever have to troubleshoot issues your wires will always be the unknown.
As others have said you can never plan on just pulling new cat 6 behind the cat 3 it works like 10% of the time thanks to staples. So if you accept that you are cutting drywall and learning to fix those numerous holes then it's a much more realistic job. Basically everytime I got a snag I got the drywall saw out. Transitioning floors can be tricky but not impossible again cut the drywall.
Here are the best tools for the job. Flexibile long drill bit was a major cheat once I started using it. Fishing tape is a waste of the time except for conduit in my opinion use the fiberglass sticks I linked below.
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drill+extension+wire&qid=1564611470&s=gateway&sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=psdc_6396129011_t3_B07F2LWVDV
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12ICHMNHKXEGF&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1564611505&s=gateway&sprefix=drywall+saw%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4
>Should I call an electrician to install an ethernet port?
Why not do it yourself and save hundreds of dollars?
Is there a basement or attic? Use that for horizontal runs.
For the walls, if you have a typical twigs and plywood house, getting between floors will be a bit tricky, but not super hard. Cut a small hole at the floor and ceiling along the wall in the 1st floor, using a long, flexible drill bit drill down into the basement from the hole near the floor. Drill up to the second floor the same way. Try to keep the bit centered on the sole plate/top plate.
If you have to use the attic to run from one side of the house to the other, you'll need to repeat the above process on the second floor to get to the attic, then once you're in the attic above the bedroom, drill up from a hole near the ceiling to get into the attic from the bedroom, then cut a hole where you want your wall plate.
Then you'll have a few small holes to patch and paint.
Does what you link totally replace the stock assembly? The nozzle goes up into some kind of block that appears to have tape around it. Will I need to rethread everything through that? I was unable to get the nozzle out of that block (I tried). Is there a trick to that?
And would these work to get the piece of metal out? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BCEZ83W2VV756AWMCFZ or are they too thick?
Even ones like these? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230
Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/
Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ok so get a really thin sewing or hypodermic needle and carefully put it into the nozzles end, if it doesn’t fit, don’t force it. I’ll link a thing for that specifically in just a second.
Edit:ok here you go.
eBay: https://m.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Nozzle-Cleaning-Needle-0-2-0-25-0-3-0-35mm-3D-printer-Cleaning-Needles-/222630788518
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_aw_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VV7QD5F4WX772BSX6J10&dpPl=1&dpID=617jklFtJDL
I just ordered this and I'm finally gonna make my Vodka Spirit Bong into the bong it's been waiting to be transformed into. Probably gonna need a grommet and I'd like to find a way to make a perc although I'll probably buy a downstem with either slits or a tree perc
I just drilled my own holes for the first time yesterday! I was in the same spot, so many pretty pots but no drainage. I bought this set off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=diamond+drill+bits&qid=1564513905&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+dri&sr=8-3
I drilled 3 different pots yesterday and it was super quick and easy. The world will be your oyster!
Will this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 hole saw set fit directly onto a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCS20C-Lithium-Ion-Rechargeable/dp/B00TM2T9C2/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478632498&sr=1-1 without any other drill bits or adapters? I plan to make holes in glass with this.
I bought these. You've really got to follow the instructions that the one commenter mentions but the hollow ones work way better than the drill bits that are really only for drywall.
You can drill through ceramic with a diamond bit. Drill slowly, irrigate, and you need to use a sacrificial plate of some kind to prevent blowout/chipping on the exit point (unless you're not too concerned with cosmetics). Glazed is a little trickier to work with.
Drill bits for glass. $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472698385&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=glass+drill+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=51NxO3dp4lL&ref=plSrch
I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great, just remember to spritz with water often while you drill so you don't strip the bit! I'd suggest watching a few youtube videos so you can get a good idea of how to do the actual drilling part, but it's super easy and I have yet to wreck a pot while drilling a hole.
Originally I was planning to drill them on the drill press before lamination the top. I totally forgot to do that, so I impatiently went at it with a forstner bit. I should have gotten a drill guide because some of the holes are a touch wonky.
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I
I haven’t tried one but [I’ve seen this](Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wS9JDbTKQYZ2Q) which could help.
Kk
https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Multi-Material-Concrete-Plastic-Tungsten/dp/B0751893Y2
I got this set of multi-material droll bits from Amazon for less than $10, and use them to drill holes for planters all the time! 😊
QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just got these yesterday. I’ve only tested them on one planter, but they went through it nice and clean.
QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10, 12mm) Multi-Material Drill Bit Set for Tile,Concrete, Brick, Glass, Plastic and Wood Tungsten Carbide Tip Best for Wall Mirror and Ceramic Tile on Concrete and Brick Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vjEDCb016R0RX
This is the one I used. I would be very cautious to use it again. Just be sure it is square before you start. I set mine at the labeled 90deg mark on the tool but clearly was not.