Best power grinders according to redditors

There is a non OEM solution - https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1375A-2-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B00004SUOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=angle+grinder&qid=1574014778&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3 - "it just works."

According to /u/meangrampa it cost about 75$.

25$ for the angle grinder.

80$ for the drill press

30$ for the vice

And then you have tools you can use for other stuff too.

But let's be real, anyone who needs a square broach already have at least the drill and the vice.

This will handle the aluminum just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE402-2-Inch-11-Amp-Grinder/dp/B00RVZ7DNO

electric die grinder

This... but a wire brush on an angle grinder (even a cheap one like:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC60TAG-6-0-Amp-2-Inch-Grinder/dp/B004X5NNGG/ref=lp_552812_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457450934&sr=1-1) will work better and faster then on a drill.
Where there are chips out on the left one, you should probably radius the edges just a little so that you don't get more metal chipping off.

for the wire brush I would suggest something like:
http://www.amazon.com/Osborn-33467SP-Knotted-Stainless-Diameter/dp/B00QK979UO/ref=sr_1_14?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457451106&sr=1-14&keywords=wirebrush+cup+5%2F8
Twisted wire brushes are very aggressive, so you won't need to work very hard to get the rust off... but at the same time wont do more then polish the steel. Make sure you really have proper eye protection on when you wire brush (or really do anything in the smithy)... wire brushes can throw tiny little bits of wire at high speeds!
These look like two really nice anvils. I'm curious what the makes and weights are... If you did not thank who ever gave you these in a very dramatic way, you should! ... even if you did, you probably should again. These are really nice anvils!

There's something called a "die grinder" which is like a Dremel on steroids.

Don't let your dreams be dreams

Some ideas:

Slow speed grinder for sharpening tools


Wolverine jig to aid in sharpening But he needs a grinder also.

If he only has the starter set of tools, he probably doesn't have a bowl gouge Those are the very best. I think 3/8 or 1/2 V-shaped is a good choice. He'll need to make a handle, but that's a good starter project.

A chuck is another great choice, but more expensive and we'd need to know the type of lathe to help pick it out.

a good allround one to use around the house

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA5010Z-5-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B001ASDTZO/ref=sr_1_25?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463977353&sr=1-25&keywords=makita+angle+grinder
Makita's are pretty damn good as well.

It's a 4.5", but I use a Dewilt 11 amper. It's a skookum choochin' son of a bitch. Quick adjustable guard with no tool, and will use either a 1/4" allen or a standard spanner wrench for the wheel.

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-301B-Angle-Grinder/dp/B008JYRDEU/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502214499&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=ing+rand+die+grinder

Drop a little air tool oil in this thing at the start of every day and it will run forever. Spend the rest of your budget on 3M die grinder tool accessories.

Or you could have:

• cordless angle grinder
  
• Chainsaw
  
• rotary lawnmower
  
  I'd go the latter, esp for zombies.

You could

Join West Philly Tool Library http://westphillytools.org/

Borrow angle grinder.

Buy silicon carbide/aluminum oxide cutoff wheel

Make cuts

Return grinder

Or, go to any autobody shop

If log furniture is his thing and you have access to logs, I'd think a chainsaw would be high on the list.

If he already has one; think about a small electric chainsaw that he can run in the garage.

Also an angle grinder would be a lower cost tool that would be very helpful in working with log furniture; If on a budget a flap disc can remove a lot of material; or you could look at the King Arthur line of wood carving attachments.

haven't been booted yet but I keep this handy. Its hard on batteries but should be enough.

I use a cordless right angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel. There are some padlocks that can take hammer blows and have boron shackles that break bolt cutter jaws. Nothing resists the grinder.

Grabbed this one, setup a homemade version of the wolverine jig and mounted it to a rolling stand. Slow speed grinder with finer wheels. Pretty happy with the results I get from it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015U2STNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28402K-2-Inch-Small-Angle-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394969063&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+grinder

All the crappy farm tables and diy projects on r/woodworking a your post gets removed, wtf.

I have a rikon half speed 1850 rpm 8" grinder with a 80 grit CBN cubic boron nitride wheel and a veritas tool rest. Shapton ceramic 320, 1000, 5000, 12000 stones. A 36"x6" 3 cm thick piece of granite and use adhesive backed sandpaper rolls. I wax the granite to allow the paper to come off the granite easily.

grinder

cbn wheel


tool rest

stones

320 g

1000 g

5000 g

12000

sand paper

This is a good question. I worked briefly as a mechanic and hardly ever used any metrology tools. If he didn't specifically ask for a measurement tool you should get him a nice 3/8 drive air ratchet or 90° die grinder.

Depending on your budget, a Tormek is arguably the best and most efficient system out there.

I can’t afford a Tormek but my friend has one and swears by it. I got the Grizzly knockoff and they really are worth the money.


https://www.amazon.com/Tormek-Cooled-Precision-Sharpening-System/dp/B01FHLUMSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Tormek&qid=1574913956&sr=8-3

Will this do it? BLACK+DECKER Angle Grinder Tool, 4-1/2-Inch, 6.5-Amp (BDEG400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZV20CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fu4VDbRRJBN5A

[Makita 18v die grinder] (https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XDG01Z-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Grinder/dp/B00LIV0R6W/) with a optional smaller 1/8" collet?

I might be wrong but I think those angle grinders have a lock so that when you try to unscrew the disc, it doesn't just rotate the motor. I think that lock is your guarantee that even if it gets switched on, the disc won't spin up (but it might be bad for the motor).

Edit: Source -
> * Spindle lock for quick and easy wheel changes

I have this one 1/4 die grinder

I wish I had this one: variable speed

This cordless one would work fine, It takes about 30 seconds tops to get through something like that bike lock with mine. Wouldn't really be worth it to buy one just for this situation though

Note that Motion Pro recommends grinding off the head of the pin on chains 520 and larger. You'll see lots of posts from people who ignored this recommendation and now have broken Motion Pro tools. If you've got an angle grinder, it makes the removal step really quick.

I bought this angle grinder for 40 bucks - super torquey and lots of included wheels to get you going, and a nice carry case, to boot.

The Craftsman would be a big upgrade from the 1x30 simply because the two inch belts will help you get a more even flat grind. It's a solid little machine that can make a great knife if you're on a budget and can learn its quirks. Runs really fast though.

Edit: looks like the Craftsman isn't made anymore but this one looks identical

https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Norse+2x42&qid=1555990589&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The mods I did are remove all the dumb shrouds and hoods over the belt, jb weld a ceramic platen on, replace the work rest because the stock one has weird grooves in it.

Well, of course the main thing (and really the only thing you need until you start getting fancy) is a (dry) bench grinder. Here's one that gets mentioned a lot, and here's the one I have.

8" is better than 6", and low speed (1750 RPM) is better than high (3500 RPM). but you could make do with a 6" high speed grinder if you had to. And since high speed 6" grinders are generally lots cheaper than 8" low speed grinders, you could get by with something more like this if you had to, but be prepared for more frustration and a steeper learning curve than you'll have with the bigger low speed grinders.

Why is that? You may hear some people say that a high speed grinder will get tools too hot and they'll lose their temper, and that is indeed a concern with the high carbon steels that bench chisels for flatwork are made out of. (Lathe chisels and gouges used to be made out of high carbon steel also). However, modern gouges for turning are almost all made of HSS - high speed steel, the same stuff you'll find on router bits and the like. It's designed to get hot and you would have to be consciously trying really hard to ruin its temper because the point at which HSS begins to lose its temper is around 1000 - 1100 degrees (F), well beyond the "blueing" of the steel that occurs around 600 degrees.

So, what's the problem with a high speed grinder then? Put simply, they just eat away steel that much faster and the compound shapes needed to properly put what we call a "fingernail profile" on a gouge are harder to learn when you have to move through what is at first an unnatural series of movements that much faster. Not impossible by any means, just a little more challenging!

The Tormek and Worksharp that /u/KiltedCajun mentions are totally unnecessary for sharpening woodturning tools imo. Would I use them if I had them? You bet! It's always fun to play with a new toy. However, I'd be willing to bet he had them for other things first and didn't buy them specifically with turning in mind.

One thing that most turners do wind up getting is the Wolverine sharpening jig- it's essentially a two-sided grinding jig that goes under both sides of you grinder and makes getting a repeatable grind shape so much easier. It's gotten to the point where it's damn near ubiquitous in the turning world. Take a turning class anywhere from Rockler to community college to the top art schools and you'll see a Wolverine jig. More about those- base unit and vari-grind gouge attachment. As you can see, these will add to as much, if not more than, the cost of your grinder, but they aren't essential if you've got the patience to learn how to freehand. That being said, I can freehand sharpen if I have to but I'm not giving up my Wolverine anytime soon.

eastwood $20 <--- dont buy that.


another IR


ingersoll rand $55

This is the angle grinder I have: Porter Cable PC60TAG

And these are the cutting disks I bought for it: DeWalt DW8061B5 Cutting Wheel

Will be cutting O1, D2, 1055 High Carbon, and, eventually, Gucci shit like CPM S35VN, all prior to heat treating.


Safe?

Makita has an 18v.

In my opinion the most efficient way to sharpen in terms of both cost and time is to use a bench grinder to hollow grind your edge then use diamond plates to hone it. The grinder will allow you to quickly remove any damage to the edge, reset the bevel and create a hollow grind. A hollow grind means that the bevel is slightly concave. This means that when you put the bevel flat on a stone to hone it material will only be removed from the outer edges making it faster because you don't have to remove much steel. It's also easier to sharpen without a honing guide because you don't have to use a micro bevel. This image demonstrates what I mean. Here's a good video on using a bench grinder. You only need to grind the bevel once the hollow becomes too small to efficiently hone the edge or you chip or dent the edge. A good bench grinder should cost $80-120. This Rikon is a pretty good deal because comes with the right type of wheels unlike most other grinders.

After grinding I like to use diamond stones to hone the edge. I like diamond stones because they're low maintenance and a bit cheaper when compared to waterstones. I personally have Eze-Lap Coarse/Medium and Fine/Superfine doublesided plates. Some people prefer the single sided plates in which case go for the Coarse, Fine and Superfine. I went for the double sided plates because you get an extra grit for the same price and I don't mind flipping them over. A few strokes on each grit will remove the grinding marks and bring the edge up to a near mirror polish. To give the edge a final polish I use a strop and charged with green honing compound. I made the strop out of some scrap leather and a piece of scrap hardwood for free.

To go from a chipped dull edge to razor sharp takes me less than 5 minutes. I usually only grind the bevel when the hollow starts to become to small. Most of the time I can just hone the edge on the diamond stones then polish it using the stop which takes me 30-60 seconds. I've tried out systems such as waterstones, ceramic stones and the worksharp but in my opinion this is the fastest and most efficient way to sharpen. The setup cost is about $250-$270 which I think is fairly reasonable and you don't have any ongoing cost like the scarp sharp system or the worksharp. A set of quality waterstones is $200-300 alone and the power sharpeners like the tormak are quite expensive and don't really save any time.

Get a variable speed bench grinder. I have a Delta that goes from 2000rpm to 3400. There are also slow speed bench grinders that are around 1700rpm

Right here: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA5010Z-5-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B001ASDTZO

Worth keeping in mind that no matter how high-security a padlock is, it suffers from the disadvantage of being located entirely outside the structure and is vulnerable to attack. I have yet to see a padlock that could stand up to a hundred dollar battery powered right angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel. It's probably not the answer you're looking for, seeing as how you're asking for free advice on the internet, but you really ought to spend a little more and perhaps get a professional to survey your door and suggest a way of installing the locking mechanism on the inside of the door, leaving only the keyed cylinder (or keypad or card reader) exposed on the outside. $200K worth of stuff really ought to be secured better than with a padlock on a sliding door.

Uff bring gleich die Batterie-Flex

If you're bringing destruction with tools into it, your average office isn't very secure either.

With this, this, and a hammer... Baby, I'm comin' in.

i see, i would try to make the jump to a 5inch with a handle when you can, more stable and powerful, and you get much more out of a disc. if i were buying a new one i would get something like
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA5010Z-5-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B001ASDTZO/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478729725&sr=1-4&keywords=makita+5+inch+grinder

im not a akita guy but they make a hell of a grinder, for the price.

Currently on amazon you could purchase a delta 8 in variable speed identical to that porter cable for $79 with free shipping. For $10 more than that Mastercraft you can get lower speed to help reduce heat build up. And its a larger motor.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHUWAFK?cache=a075059e674dc9b7791868ef37a7d03c&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408847324&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

Use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel for cutting sheet steel.

Thanks for the advices! I found a cheaper bench grinder: POWERTEC 8" SlowSpeed Grinder. Is it good?

I used the grinder below until I bought a 2x72. I got mine a bit cheaper as it was 4 years ago or so, but the same one with a different brand name. I also bought a steel platen and added it.. Worked pretty good to get me started on a budget.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=asc_df_B07FFKD4HH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241955516116&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16790348003686627987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029357&hvtargid=pla-570400924991&psc=1

Here's the Dremel package for $99. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1SJNVU/

Tack Life $37 (I wonder how much better this one is compared to the $17 one) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433

Skil 4.5" angle grinder ($47.95) - https://www.amazon.com/9296-01-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Paddle-Grinder/dp/B009RJE6TQ/


I really like this Makita and the case it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DHFTK/

Hitachi 4.5" $44.99 - https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR4-6-2-Amp-Grinder-Abrasive/dp/B0199MMA84/

Bosch 4.5" $49 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SUOU/

I bought one last year for 120 Canadian... 79.99 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BGSS801-Speed-Bench-Grinder/dp/B015U2STNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Slow+speed+grinder&qid=1569374143&sr=8-3

Amazon!

See if you know anyone that has an angle grinder.

That's what I always use.

If hollow, give it a try, but I'd be surprised if it isn't steel rod (they're not thick enough to support the weight of a body otherwise. Use a hacksaw, or upgrade to a grinder with cutoff wheel. If you're handy, it won't be the last time you use this inexpensive and robust tool. The Harbor Freight version is 10 bucks.

Combination for entire package is Grinder.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28402K-2-Inch-Small-Angle-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413568875&sr=8-3&keywords=metal+grinder

I've heard good things about General Chain Saw, but you could also pop down to lowes/home depot/hardware sales and pick up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9557PBX1-2-Inch-Grinder-Aluminum/dp/B0010DHFTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413254624&sr=8-4&keywords=makita+5+inch+grinder

That's what I use when I need to sharpen mine and it seems to work well enough.

Edit: Oh heheh, I'm assuming you mean flat rotating lawnmower blades, not reel mower blades. I would definitely take a reel mower to someone like General Chain Saw. Hitting reel mower blades with a hand grinder really wouldn't be a good idea.

Sure thing! I upgraded to a heavy duty DeWalt but, you can find really inexpensive ones to start with: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDEG400-Grinder-2-Inch/dp/B00RZV20CS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=angle+grinder&qid=1556909001&s=gateway&sr=8-3

this grinder works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2B78YG/ref=psdc_552814_t3_B015U2STNM

The Wolverine jig and Vari-Grind accessory are one option, and probably by far the most popular, but there are also:

• Cheap^[1] knockoffs^[2]
  
• Less complex "one-grind-fits-all" jigs like the Ellsworth Jig
  
• Wet grinder systems like the Tormek (and^[1] many^[2], many^[3] knockoffs^[4] with compatible jigs
  
• A few styles of sander-based systems, like the Robert Sorby Pro-Edge
  
• Some professionally produced homebrew jigs/systems that have a small market amongst fellow turners (usually found on forums)
  
• And finally there are countless DIY options of varying quality and functionality (there's a couple links in the wiki).
  
  
  
  

DIY kit*:

https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCG412B-Lithium-grinder-Tool/dp/B007NVSS1W

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW9154-2-Inch-Framing-8-Inch/dp/B000037X0J

* Batteries Not Included

NOTEPORTER-CABLE PC60TAG 6.0-Amp 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder is also on sale for $ 21.99

I have used the following tools for all my tiling needs so far each has their own strengths and weaknesses:

• The quickest, but can't do special cuts like L,cutouts or diag.
  https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-24-in-Snap-Cutter/dp/B0764KK8RQ
  
  
• I use this the most for any kind of special cut that I couldn't get with snapping. You also need to purchase a diamond blade for it. (Dry cut )
  https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE402-2-Inch-11-Amp-Grinder/dp/B00RVZ7DNO
  
  
• I recently had to purchase this to cut natural stone (marble), it worked surprisingly well for the price but was messy and had to be used outside.
  https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWC860W-4-3-8-Inch-Masonry/dp/B003BVW5NU

Makita 9557PBX1 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Aluminum Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DHFTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2PcJBbZ1XVMZK

What is your thoughts on this one. Makita GA5010Z 5-Inch Angle Grinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ASDTZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4kkbzbW4G8BGS

As mentioned by others, you could try something like a rust buster solvent. Lastly. do you own a grinder? If so, you could cut them off. If not, you should think about buying one. It's one of those once-in-a-lifetime purchases that really come in handy.

Tens of thousands. I almost said "hundreds of thousands", which clearly I should have.

The point is - the amount of wear on those particular e-brake parts is so insignificantly small as to render your points above moot. A couple of pounds of pressure, maybe, on metal ratchet parts? Yeah, not going to happen.

Tell you what: Take apart your e-brake handle, and measure with a proper set of digital calipers, all of the various parts there. Put your e-brake back together (being sure to properly lubricate it, as it likely was from the factory!)

Cycle it 20,000 times, disassemble, and measure the wear on it. It will be an insignificant amount of wear :-/.

No cheating, either!

The investment in the grinder might not compensate for the skillet, but HERE'S ONE IF YOU'RE IN THE USA.

THIS type of attchment could help get into the corners.

Cordless even.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-PCC761B-20-volt-Lithium-Grinder/dp/B00FQ8OHBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483937465&sr=8-2&keywords=cordless+angle+grinder

Use your grey matter. Sigh. Shall we begin?

• r/lockpicking
  
• lock picking kits
  
• locksmith
  
• sledge hammer
  
• heavy duty hammer
  
• normal hammer
  
• chisels
  
• air hammer
  
• Dremel
  
• circular saw
  
• rotary cutter
  
• plasma cutter
  
• acetylene torch
  
• hydrogen peroxide (oxidizer)
  
• bolt cutter
  
• crowbar
  
• water jet cutter
  
• laser cutter
  
• thermite
  
• metal disintigration
  
• prayer
  
• get creative
  
  Did I miss any? No? Good. Post an update when you get the thing open.