Best power & hand tools according to redditors

We found 31,293 Reddit comments discussing the best power & hand tools. We ranked the 12,060 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Power & Hand Tools:

u/Brave_little_pew_pew · 227 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Knife nut here. Allow me to expound.

Serrated vs Straight - Serrations are good for cutting tough soft things. Thick rope and such. Not much else.

Locking Blade with Pocket Clip - Gerber is awful. Avoid at all costs. Seriously. The construction is sub par and the materials are worse.

Kershaw is a good budget recommendation. Of the Kershaws, I would recommend the entire Ken Onion design lineup (the Leek, the Shallot, and the Chive are the three I would purchase myself. In fact, I own all three)

For the more expensive (and, frankly, gorgeous) options, I cannot recommend Benchmade enough. So many classy blades. In fact, Bechmade gets its own category.

Benchmade - Model 586: Aluminium + black G10 handles, AXIS lock, classy as fuck.

Bali-songs: Models 32, 51, 62, 63, and 67. Interesting little (and big) blades. Very fun, extremely beautiful, and a real crowd pleaser.

And that's all I'm going to type for now (at work). If you are interested, check out Benchmade, Knifecenter, and such. Feel free to head over to /r/knives /r/knifeclub for more information, or just ask me, here in comments or with a PM, if you have any questions.

Oh, and do be careful with those balis. They are partially toys, but very very sharp toys.

EDIT: I will add more when I get home late tonight if I remember to.

u/ThisIsWhatICarry · 153 pointsr/AskMen

I'll interpret "guy stuff" as "EDC stuff".

u/HOVSEPYAN0 · 111 pointsr/Unexpected
u/_cs · 84 pointsr/funny

Here's the link to the Amazon page these reviews are on!

According to camelcamelcamel, it sells for between $853 and $1400: Link

u/kickdrive · 82 pointsr/Frugal

Every person I have ever given a Gerber Shard to (male and female), has thanked me time and again for it. At 5.99 it's the most functional multi tool for the money, it's nearly unbreakable, and it will last a long time unless they lose it.

u/AlphaMoose67 · 74 pointsr/AskMen



Bert’s Bees

Pocket Knife

Multitool (When clothing allows)

A good ink pen

Mini composition book for random notes and stuff

And a small “boo-boo” kit, NOT a full first aid kit, (mostly a few different sizes of bandaids, burn ointment, triple antibiotic ointment, Benadryl, and Ibuprofen.)

E:words and stuff

u/statikstasis · 72 pointsr/howto

[PB Blaster] (

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

u/edinc90 · 69 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

That looks like Belden 1855A cable. That connector is a Neutrik rearTWIST UHD BNC connector, which means it's part number NBNC75BDD6X with the BST-BNC-6 blue boot (it comes with black boots.) The crimp die for this connector is the Neutrik DIE-R-BNCX-PDG which fits the Neutrik HX-R-BNC, the Knipex 97 43 200, or the Rennsteig PEW12 (all the same crimper.)

The Paladin/Greenlee CrimpAll PA8000 with the PA2699 crimp die will also work.

You will also need a coax stripper, I like the Greenlee CST Pro. For this cable, you will need the orange blade cartridge.

A small side cutter is also nice to trim the center conductor and any stray braid wires. My favorite is the Hakko Micro Cutter.

u/Maddies_Trans_Alt · 51 pointsr/traaaaaaannnnnnnnnns
u/GiantQuokka · 49 pointsr/AskCulinary

So your whetstone isn't going to actually sharpen much of anything. The grit is way too coarse to actually get an edge. It's good for repairing a chipped edge and such or reprofiling a knife if you want to change the blade angle. Then you need something finer to finish the job and get it actually sharp.

This is the stone I use. It does a pretty good job. Although the one I got was pretty far off of being flat and I had to flatten it. It's probably not a common issue since the reviews didn't mention it.

u/LurkerOnTheInternet · 45 pointsr/funny

Amazon link

There is only one real review which says it's basically not even functional and was created only as a display item to demonstrate the various tools in their catalog.

u/Black6x · 38 pointsr/nyc

(Had to repost this because I used link shorteners to stay under char limit and it got auto-deleted, so this one is finally fixed)

I'm a native New Yorker, and I'll chime in as someone who was able to buy a place in NYC (brooklyn) before turning 30. Now, the prices have exploded in my area since I bought (2010), but there are other areas that are still in the "reasonable" range.

I was by no means rich. I'm not rich, but I technically own property that has appreciated so I "have" money on paper. I can't spend that money. I am the type of person subbed to r/frugal, /r/personalfinance, and /r/churning. I grew up somewhat poor, and I think that has shaped my complete fear of going broke. For some, it may also fuel the desire to buy nice things. You have to be careful with that second one. I pay off my credit cards every month, but I also take advantage of any "no interest for 12 months" type deals on a Best Buy store card when I need a big purchase. I'm going to talk about buying, and then I'm going to talk about what I generally do financially.

"Avocado toast" really seems to be an example of a bigger underlying problem, which is that people have too many things that they spend too much money on. $14 for avocado on toast is obscene given how cheap it would be to make it yourself. And yes, I understand that they restaurant pays the rent, the servers, etc, but the point is that avocado toast and expensive coffee shouldn't really be a regular luxury. The thing is, how many other places are you basically throwing away excess money, like GrubHub and bars?

I'm not saying don't have fun. I'm saying that you should meter that stuff a bit. If you have the funds and you want to buy a Nintendo Switch, go ahead. That's a one time cost for the system, and it provides ongoing fun. But that's gotta be your thing. Your thing can't be bars AND dining out AND traveling AND expensive jeans AND tattoos AND...

Here are my personal tips for finance that may make life a bit easier. This may not lead to you buying a place, but it can lead to you getting some financial freedom. It's the same theory when it came to packing a ruck: ounces make pounds. In this case that extra money you save (or spend) adds up over time.

First off you need to plan.

I like Quicken. I used to love MS Money more, but that's gone and mint wasn't doing it for me at the time and I haven't tried it since. Don't get the new version every year. Maybe every 4 years IF you feel the new features will help you.

Quicken works best if you have steady income, but if you have income that fluctuates due to hours or tips, you should just estimate a basic income that you typically get and you can always adjust upward for actual. Better to underestimate income. So now you have an estimate of money in.

Now, you need to take control of your bills and calculate money out. Personally, I pay most of my bills weekly so they can't sneak up on me. For example, I went to the electric company website and looked at my bills for the past year, added that up, and divided by 52. That's my weekly average energy spend. It goes up in summer and down in winter. Then, for one bill I paid it off, and then the following week, I had my bank start automatic payments of that weekly amount. This does three things. First, the bills don't surprise me all at once. Second, should anything happen, I'm a month ahead of my bills, so I have some time to think. Third, with the payments going automatically, I don't have to waste time paying bills or trying to figure out what needs to be paid. And your bank send it, so you can't forget, they track it, and you don't need a stamp (if you mail it to someone).

Remember that thing I mentioned about "12 months no interest" on a store card. Don't wait 12 months and get screwed. Again, take the amount, divide by 50, send that much to the card each week for 52 weeks. So if you need a new laptop, and it's going to cost $1,300, that might really hurt your budget. However, at $25 a week, it becomes easy to manage. That's like not eating out once.

I pay for everything possible with a credit card. I could try to figure out a budget, but I'm lazy, and my spending can go all over the place. However, with the card, I just estimate what I usually spend each week and have the bank auto-pay that. This also makes it easy to track the real money in my checking account in Quicken because the output is stabilized. Just like with the other bills. Also, I get cool points and stuff that I will later use for travel or whatever, and I pay no interest.

So, in Quicken, with your general income and spending put in, you can see what your money is doing over time. And you can see if your lifestyle is going to slowly drive you to being broke. When I first got my place and needed a roommate, the area sucked. However, I could see in quicken what the minimum that I needed to charge was in order for me to not go broke. My roommate paid less than a third of the total costs were, but I was at least financially stable for the time being. Now that the area is better, it's closer to them paying half.

Save money

So let's say that you're one of the lucky people that have excess money when you look at your plan. Don't plan how to spend it. I recommend opening another bank account, setting up a regular automatic transfer, and then acting like the money isn't there.

I started doing this when I was in the military and used to get blindsided by holiday shopping. I figured out that if I could put $25 a month into another account, I would have $300 at the end of the year for gifts. That's a big chunk of money when you're semi-broke and it hits you all at once. So having that in reserve was useful.

Again, using quicken, you can see what you can put aside without completely depleting your checking account.

Also, any pay raise you get, just don't increase your standard of living, and set that money aside. It will be a great emergency fund.

Buying stuff.

I was STUPID when I got out of the military. I lived in a place that was furnished when I was in, so when I got out and had money, I bought some nice furniture. I think I blew around $8K thanks to Raymour & Flanigan. It was basically Afghanistan deployment money. I bought a nice table, chairs, a mattress and some other stuff, all for way too much.

You know where you can also get some nice stuff? Craigslist, which is where I'm currently trying to sell that nice table for a lot less than I bought it for. $200 Ikea bed frames in very good condition are going for $50. $150 for a solid table and 4 chairs that someone else paid 800 for, and they may be in great condition.

Unless there is no way to get it cheaper, I don't by anything that's not on sale, and even then it's usually what I need.

There are some places where you usually don't want to go cheap, like shoes or a mattress, or tires if you own a car.

Buy things that will last but you don't need to do it all at once. You can always upgrade stuff later, but just make sure that you don't spend a lot on the placeholder stuff.


We all need food. And we all feel like there's no time. Cooking is not that hard. Yeah, you may screw up a recipe at first, but you will get better. Most meals you can make in 30 minutes, and if you want to get really efficient, you can do things like taking a day for weekly meal prep (I don't. I should but I haven't really gotten to it).

You can cook scrambled eggs like Gordon Ramsey in under 5 minutes. Your cost: 40 cents. The cost of a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich is maybe $1.25 if you do it yourself.

Buy cookbooks geared toward simplicity.

This was my first cookbook: Cooking Outside the Pizza Box. For many of us, it's aptly named. Other ones that I have and would recommend: Healthy Cooking for Two (or Just You) and Easy Menus for Dining In.

If you want to be really cheap, just go to or some similar website.

I also invested in a good chef's knife (over $100), but a mediocre one for $30 will be okay, just realize that you will need to sharpen it a little more frequently (like every 3 months), so maybe invest in a whetstone and learn a skill. Sharp knives make cutting so much easier.. A dull knife means you use more force, and are more likely to cut yourself if it slips.

Most of your meals you can make for a fraction of the cost that you pay for it outside. Coffee is the easiest. Yes a coffee maker is pricey, but if you get one that has something like an automatic function, you can get one that you can set up to make you coffee in the morning so you can save time on your prep.

Something like this and a thermos will be invaluable.

Hanging out with friends

I like to be social. Unfortunately, there are few places in NYC that you can hang out, and most of them serve food and drinks, and it's going to cost you. Bars are just convenient. Also, you can meet new people there.

However, if you or a friend have a nice space, maybe try hosting gatherings. You could even do a potluck. The drinks are cheaper, people can bring food, and if it's your place, when the night ends everyone leaves and you're right next to your bed.

u/MBuoya · 33 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Get a decent Japanese knife, and sharpen it often using one of [these] (

Source: I have a few of them.

Edit: I should add that the knife in the link is carbon steel, which means it will rust very quickly if not properly taken care of, especially when cutting any acidic vegetables. Not wiping the knife after cutting a lemon will make it rust in a few minutes. Of course it can all be fixed with one of these, a necessity if you own a carbon steel knife.

u/NotMyTypesType · 29 pointsr/Unexpected

There was one verified review:

> I purchase this knife on Amazon. When the knife arrived I opened the package . Most of the blades were in the open position. I thought "This is a cool knife" . I closed the knife blades and was shocked to discover that a couple of the blades were longer then the body of the knife and stuck out precariously ready to slice open any finger or body part that dare come within striking distance. What is worse is that the sharp edge of the knife blade sticks right up against a metal bolster that is in perfect position to put a large knick right in the blade. I called Wenger and asked if this was the way that they intended to make the knife or if it was a defect in which the assembler possibly put the blades in the wrong channel . I was told that this knife was a "display piece" and was never intended to be functional. Well that is all well and good but then please inform the buyer as to this fact and don't produce a marketing video that shows the many uses of the knife. I purchased this knife as a gift for a collector friend and I realize that 99% of collector knives will be locked away in a safe and never used but the difference is, a quality custom OR production tool is at least functional. That is the beauty of a tool. Wenger should be ashamed of ever letting this worthless piece of dangerous scrap metal ever leave the factory. Anyone involved in this project should be fired. The cheapest far East knife factory would never let something like this leave the door. And this is Swiss made? . I have to cringe at the thought of a product liability Attorney flashing pictures of this "Closed" knife after it slices off somebodies finger. Needless to say I sent it back to Amazon WITH A WARNING

u/eclectro · 29 pointsr/WhatsInThisThing

If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.

u/brandonsmash · 29 pointsr/specializedtools

They're rather common and are available anywhere from Harbor Freight to Home Depot. This is the set that I own.

u/WrenInFlight · 28 pointsr/funny

Then returned with two hookers and a cooler full of beer.

But my personal favorite:

> Received this knife as a gift for my 18th birthday. Wish I'd have known what it was because as soon as I touched it, I grew a mustache and became a Navy Seal. Mom fainted and my dad laughed and handed me a beer. I was born a girl.

>Minus 2 stars because my breasts were really nice.

u/Nfsman01 · 26 pointsr/de

Der Klassiker. Auch super im US Amazon.

u/stml · 26 pointsr/funny

Here's a link for the one and only actually verified purchase review and the guy actually gives a good reason to give it only a 1 star out of 5.

Turns out some of the knives are too long to actually be closed and you can't actually close each knife. I would also be pretty pissed. If something is so expensive, they might as well make it possible to completely close the thing.

u/whiteyonthemoon · 24 pointsr/gadgets
u/Badbullet · 23 pointsr/3Dprinting

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.

u/Gereshes · 23 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Going through undergrad commencement this weekend had me thinking about my time in undergrad and more specifically, those things I chose to carry with me almost every day.

Starting from the upper right hand corner and working my way around in clockwise direction.

Pens – 3 Disposable Bic pens – When it comes to pens I leave them everywhere. I leave them in class, the lab, the machine shop, etc. Because of this I buy them in bulk and then just carry a bunch of disposable pens with me. They are cheap so if I lose one or someone asks to borrow one I don’t worry about getting them back. I like these pens because I find they are comfortable to write with, wont break from me carrying them around or treating them like shit, and have a pen cap to prevent them from making a mess in my pocket. Why no pencils?  I haven’t found a mechanical pencil that is both cheap and will survive in my pocket. If you know of one that fits those two requirements let me know in the comments!

Highlighter – Used for marking up academic papers I am reading. I’ll usually carry one or two with me but I keep several different colors at home for heavy markup. The colors I like carrying on me are odd colors, not yellow, like green and pink because they let my markups stand out from other peoples markups.

Sharpie – Used for marking up things that pens and highlighters can’t like metal, ceramics, and sleeping lab mates.

USB Drive – I don’t use it all that often thanks to free services like Google Drive and Dropbox but  everyone in a while when you don’t have access to other options these can really save you. For example like when you need to print out a final report that’s due in 15 minutes and the internet is down. (That example definitely hasn’t happened to me)

Letherman Skeletool – The Skeletool is a good all around multi-tool. It has a knife, pliers, wire cutters,/strippers, screwdriver (both flat an Philips), and a bottle opener.  It’s slim so its easy to carry without giving up a lot of functionality.

Timex Weekender Chrono – Useful for telling time if durring both meetings and tests when you cant check your phone. Taking a peek at your watch durring a meeting is unnoticeable unlike when you check your phone which can be considered rude.

TI-84 – The second most useful tool in my entire engineering education after a pen. I’ll often use the calculator instead of Matlab or Wolfram Alpha for doing homework that require simple computations just because I’m so familiar with it that I can operate it extremely quickly just from muscle memory.

Planner –  It’s useful for writing down assignment due dates and meetings. Everyone has a different way of organizing events/work an I find havving a written copy helps me visualize where everything is.

Muji Recycle Paper Bind Notebook – Useful for taking notes in meetings and they can fit in my back pocket

Allett Slim Bifold Wallet – It’s an ultra thin bifold wallet that I love. It’s so thin I never even notice it in my pocket. I can sit on it all day without being uncomfortable. My last one became worn out after two years and I bought another one immediately. I highly recommend them!

Keys –  For opening doors/stuff. Note: I just grabbed some unused keys for this pic and put them on a carabiner.

Google  Pixel – It’s taking the photo. Lately its mostly been used for snap chat

u/MakerGrey · 23 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I spent nearly 20 years as a cook-then-sous-then-exec in fine dining kitchens. I've bought cheap knives, and I've bought expensive knives. I finally found my sweet spot split between Misono Swedish Carbon and Misono UX10s. I have a few different styles of knives in each, and they each have their ups and downs. The downside to either of those is that they're not exactly cheap (but you can spend way more if you're so inclined).

On the cheap side of things, this series of knives form Victorinox is probably the best value out there. For a home cook, these are absolutely bifl, but they're not exactly sexy.

My recommendation when anyone asks me a question like this is to go for the Mac Professional Series. They're fancy enough to be a little special, but not so special that you're afraid to use them. Full disclosure, I still use a Chef Series Mac 5.5" utility knife. In a professional kitchen, your utility knife gets so much more use than you'd imagine, so having a cheap one without the bolster is nice in case someone drops it in the fryer and kills the temper, or kicks it under the dish station etc. For home, I'd get the nice (pro series) version.

Anyway, for a first investment in nice knives, I'd go for an 8" chef's knife, dimples or not, it makes no real difference, and a 5.5" utility knife. The second addition would be 10-12" carving knife. Of course, a serrated bread knife and a small paring knife are necessary, but that's where those Victorinox knives I linked above are perfect.

I'm sure the bifl crowd here will crucify me for recommending stainless, but unless you're using your knives every day for hours a day, it's way too easy to get lazy and you end up with pitting and rust on all those fancy carbon knives, and that makes you less likely to use them.

For sharpening, get a 1000/6000 grit whetstone. When I was cheffing for a living, I hit the 6000 every day, and the 1000 once a week. Now, I cook dinner maybe 4 times a week, and I hit the 6000 once a month, and the 1000 like once or twice a year. Keeping the knives in cases helps with this. Drawers will kill the edge. Youtube has plenty of tutorials on how to use a whetstone and keep everything straight.

As far as "sharpening" steels go, it's nice having one around if you're doing a ton of knife work and need a quick touch up, but slapping a knife on a steel is not the same as sharpening it, and if you let the edge get truly dull (by hitting the steel instead of sharpening it), you'll have a bear of a time getting the edge true again.

Anyway, if you buy something made by an ancient Japanese craftsman who's older than the volcano he forges in, sure, it'll be cool and have fancy wavy lines. If you buy garbage it'll be garbage. Whatever you do, just know that nothing screams recent culinary school graduate than a Shun santoku.

note: I've written "you" a bunch in here. It's less pretentious than saying "one may sharpen..." and less clumsy than referring to your partner at all times . I hope you'll forgive me.

edit: tl;dr get the Macs

u/Pighit · 23 pointsr/amazonreviews

For the joke to work you need to see the product, here

u/iamtherealdylan · 21 pointsr/Chinesium

Yeah, some things just aren't worth it haha


I would highly recommend these ones:


If you cut anything really strong or oddly shaped you can dull them pretty easily, but otherwise they cut really clean and easily and they're super sharp. I have pick up a bunch of these, mine are almost too dull to use now :(

u/ast3r3x · 21 pointsr/DataHoarder

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

u/kmb11132 · 21 pointsr/AskReddit

Leatherman Squirt PS4 = pliers + scissors on a keychain-size tool

u/grte · 19 pointsr/Eyebleach

No, fuck that advice. Get a stone and learn how to use it. Those knife sharpening devices are ass and any chef worth his salt will tell you that.

Here's a good stone.


🅰️ AMAZON Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant by Wenger

> 87 implements
141 functions

^([ )[^PM]( "send a private message to this person")^( | )[^FAQ]( "questions that I frequently ask")^( | society , community , progress | v0.30 ])

u/Saldar1234 · 18 pointsr/EDC

I love my Gerber Shard but that is pretty cool.

u/ChicagoDogEater · 17 pointsr/Unexpected

Just checked Amazon, now they want $9,000 used!!

u/Muniosi_returns · 17 pointsr/EDC

It's currently $29 on Amazon too.

u/zapatodefuego · 16 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

For anyone looking to get into whetstone sharpening, just know that it's really not all that difficult.

A good starter stone is the Shapton Pro 1k which can be found on Amazon for just $36. It's a splash and go stone that doesn't require any soaking and it's a hard stone that doesn't dish fast.

While the 1k is a good starting point for any knife that isn't already a butter knife, the 320 grit would be necessary for turning that butter knife into a real knife again.

If you want something with more polish and a higher level of sharpness, the 5000 grit will offer a good deal of edge refinement without going too crazy. However, this is pretty much pointless for any knife under 60 HRC (a Wusthof is at 58 HRC which is pushing it) since that softer steel won't hold a 5k edge for very long at all.

These Kuromaku stones are real Shapton Pros, but those manufactured for the Japanese market. The versions for the western market have differently labeling printed on the stones, but are otherwise identical. Prices for Kuromaku Shaptons vary widly on Amazon so it's worth waiting for a deal, and only a few are actually available at these lower prices.

An even cheaper option is the King 1k/6k combination stone which is viable, but not something I usually recommend. It dishes fast, the 6k side is overkill for most home cooks, and from what I've heard using the stone isn't a particularly good experience.

If you would like to learn about sharpening in general, or how to do it, start here:

And if you're looking for a knife or how to care for it, consider stopping by /r/chefknives!

u/acmuseum · 16 pointsr/factorio

Not sure if has a pitchfork, but you can probably build one.

u/Smooth1076 · 16 pointsr/EDC

Personally, I would just buy one decent knife for that price. The first set looks like it includes things I already own like a nice pen and mini tool, and the knives are so similar in the second set. I don't like assisted opening either. Just my 2 cents.

u/bramblyhedges · 15 pointsr/EDC

Clockwise from top left:

OLPR Leather Minimalist Wallet

Nite Ize Steel Key Rack with Molle velcro strap and key ring

Attached to it are my 64GB Toshiba Flash Drive, Gerber Shard and keys.

Zebra Mini T-3 that I clip in the spine of my wallet

Fisher Space Pen Bullet

Generic lighter

Field Notes but in the dot-graph version

Military issue Victorinox Bantam, couldn't find black online

Nicron B10 Rechargeable Flashlight

Gerber Dime

First ever pocket knife, the Tac-Force Spring Assisted Knife

iPhone 8 Plus

u/abnormal_human · 14 pointsr/woodworking

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

u/SavageConsciousness · 14 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Professional Chef here.

First off, you really only need the chef knife. Butcher knife can do pretty much everything that the chef knife can do besides the detail work. It's going to come down to preference.

Second, BIFL quality of a knife is going to depend on what you're using it for. If you're just using a chef knife for your everyday knife in your own personal kitchen, then it could potentially last you for the rest of your life. If you're using it for commercial purposes then it's only going to last as long as 3-10 years depending on the quality of the knife due to sharpening.

Third, as for sharpening is concerned depending on what kind of metal you are working with and how often you use the knife, you're probably going to need to sharpen every month-3 months. I work in a commercial kitchen and I sharpen my knife every week at least, sometimes twice a week.

Most people will tell you that something like this works just fine for sharpening your knife, but I find that they don't hold an edge for very long and the quality of the edge is sub par. Personally I use this and it gets me a RAZOR sharp edge every time. If you can shave your arm with one pass then you did it right. Just watch some youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife using wet stones and you'll be a pro in no time.

Keep your knives sharp! A sharp knife may cut you easier, but it is safer than a dull knife. The reason being is the amount of PRESSURE you apply to the object your cutting. A sharp knife will give little resistance and wont need as much pressure as a dull knife. So if you do cut yourself it will be with very little pressure as opposed to SMASHING a dull knife into your flesh. It's a bad time, trust me.

Anyway, stay stafe, have fun, and enjoy your knives.

u/GarrettTheMole · 14 pointsr/videos

Mine is 1000 grit on one side and 6000 grit on the other. This is stone I have and it will get any knife you have plenty sharp. It does take a while to get the technique down though, but it's well worth it once you do. I used youtube to teach myself how to do it correctly.

u/goto-reddit · 14 pointsr/redneckengineering

That's not a pocket knife, THIS is a pocket knife!

u/elee0228 · 13 pointsr/funny

Amazon link for convenience.

The Customer Questions & Answers sections is equally entertaining:
> Question: Can it core a apple?
Answer: Of course it can, but the apple-corer blade is accessible only if you use it immediately after the bagpipe bladder stitch removal cumberbutton and before using the panda baby spoon.

> Question: can we see a photo of this knife in the closed position?
Answer: No. Unfortunately, closing the knife brings too much mass into one location causing the formation of a small black hole. This is not covered by the warranty.

> Question: Where is the Flugelhorn?
Answer: Right in between the warp drive and the creme brulee torch.

u/fearandloling · 13 pointsr/EDC
u/Shadow703793 · 13 pointsr/modelmakers

A few tips to help you out OP:

  1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.

  2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.

  3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.

  4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.

  5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.

  6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.


    A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:

u/Landoperk · 13 pointsr/backpacking

Sawyer Mini water filter. $20 Arguably the best lightweight backpacking filter available.
Also, the Leatherman Squirt is on my backpacking wishlist this year.

u/cH3x · 13 pointsr/preppers

I like the Morakniv and firesteel ideas, and also:

u/ehawa001 · 12 pointsr/knifeclub

Definitely the Ontario Rat 1, in my opinion. Here's the link:

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black)

u/Dogwithrabiez · 12 pointsr/chefknives

You're new to the industry, and new to cooking. Quite frankly, your skills are at the point where you won't really have a huge preference one way or the other, and you won't perform any differently with a 50 dollars knife versus a 5000 dollar knife. Similarly, fancy whetstones, glass stones, sharpening systems, etc won't make a difference either.

Right now, get the basics. Good solid stuff that's relatively cheap so that you can figure out what you like, and don't like. You have 1300-1500 to spend-- Good. Save it for now. Industry doesn't pay much. Here's the basics to start you out that has the best bang for buck, and gives you some different styles and feels to try out, so that you can figure out what you'll eventually enjoy the most. If you want more information on any of the knives, let me know.

This is a knife that's full tang, VG-10 steel(same as Shun), and has decent heat treat. Western style handle, with a westernized santoku Japanese style blade. At 60 bucks, it's a steal.

Ubiquitous western style knife. Steel is the same as the more expensive Wustofs, Mercers, and anything that claims to use "German Stainless Steel". It's all x50crmov15, with slightly different heat treats. Victorinox does it right.

HAP40 high speed tool steel. This is the high tech stuff used in blade competitions. Japanese style handle, maintains a really sharp edge for a really long time. A little more expensive, but that kind of steel for that price is really, really worth it.

Look, a cleaver's a cleaver. You don't need fancy steels or anything-- You just need a whole lotta force behind a whole lotta steel. Hone and sharpen often, and this'll do great for you.

Speaking of cleavers, though...

Chinese cleavers are awesome. They're not actually cleavers though, don't use them on bones and the like-- They're the Chinese version of the all purpose chef knife or gyuto knife. Chinese chefs are expected to be able to do everything with this knife, from fileting to tourne to peeling to chopping to brunoise, so they're actually quite versatile. Speaking of which-- This also fills in for the Japanese Nakiri role. Tons of fun to use.

This is a fantastic stone, one that Master Bladesmith Murray Carter uses. I ran a knife sharpening service, and this is the one I used for most knives as well. Since you won't have to deal with weird recurves and tantos and nightmare grinds and the like that can show up on folding knives, this will serve you very well.

This is in case you get some gnarly chips on any knives. This'll get it out quick and easy. Bonus-- Use it to flatten and maintain your King stone. This and the King stone is all you really need for sharpening. You can easily get a shaving edge with it.

Besides those, stick with what you got in the Mercer kit for the specialty knives. You really don't need fancy versions of those. You also really don't need a serrated utility knife at all. In the professional kitchen, the three knives that saw the most work were the overall chef knife(even for fileting and some light butchering), the 4 dollar Victorinox paring knife(quick and easy to sharpen), and the Mercer tourne knife.

Buying all this will amount to 431.31, giving you a combination sharpening stone, a flattening/reprofiling stone, and 5 fun knives of all different kinds to play with, at a fraction of the cost. You'll notice I didn't put any Super Blue or White #1 steels in there-- That's because A) They're more difficult to take care of, and B) They're really overpriced for what they are, simply because their "japanese" moniker makes people think they're super laser swords from a land of secret steels(they're not). The HAP40 steel beats these steels in pretty much every category.

Hope you found it helpful! Have fun with whatever you decide to choose.

u/m104 · 12 pointsr/Cooking

I use this one.

u/ThirstyOne · 12 pointsr/Survival

The Bacho Laplander seems to be popular with outdoor enthusiasts. I don't own one myself so I can't speak to it's quality. I do think it would be better off with a high-vis paint job but otherwise it seems pretty solid.

The saw I use is from the gardening section at my local hardware store. They usually have these $5 'gardening kit' sales that include a foam pad, pruning shears and a folding saw. Coincidentally, the exact same folding saw that's on 'sale' for $14 two isles over.

u/nwalker85 · 12 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I can't recommend the Kershaw Leek enough. It comes factory sharp enough to shave, it's super slim, and it looks classy as hell.

u/PhysicsDude55 · 12 pointsr/Tools

What type of list would you be looking for? I have a spreadsheet with all the Knipex tools I own, and my wish list of tools I'm looking to buy when I find them at the right price, but I don't think that spreadsheet would be that useful to most people.

I work with shielded cable all the time at work. The Knipex Snips are great at stripping them. You can get the Knipex snips for about $20 if you look around. Check out the design on them and you'll see the little indention at the base of them which makes them really good at stripping stuff like shielded cable and Cat5/6.

for 18/2 or 22/4 shielded cable the #12 stripper slot on a regular pair of Klein strippers works really well. The Knipex automatic wire strippers are only designed for individual conductors, but they do a really good job of stripping every wire the exact same length which is really handy for terminating panels.

I have a pair of Irwin automatic strippers, and they do OK with stripping the jackets off cables, but overall I wasn't impressed with them and stopped carrying them at work. You might have good luck with them - they have good reviews.

u/grampadeal · 12 pointsr/HomeImprovement

These wire strippers right here. These things make stripping wires so freaking easy. I never had a proper set of wire strippers and would use Xacto knives and my fingernails prior to buying these. Now it takes a second and a half to strip a wire, no measuring or anything. Stick the wire in the thing, squeeze the thing, pull the thing, and you have a stripped wire. Highly, highly recommended.

u/[deleted] · 12 pointsr/AskReddit

The coolest things that I have personally bought (under $50 individually) are:

$43 4Sevens Preon Revo - single AAA flashlight(!), 82 lumens(!), excellent construction.

$12 Split Pea Lighter - world's smallest lighter.

$35 Leatherman Skeletool - lightweight, functional, stylish multitool. (Technically when I bought it a couple years ago it was $65. Still worth it!)

That's all I can think of for now. Can you tell that I was a Boy Scout? Also I like tiny things.

u/EineBeBoP · 12 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Leatherman Skeletool

There are several different versions with different tools, but i love that it has a built in clip to attach to a belt loop. Makes it easy to carry and pull out. I've used mine heavily for 2 years, and its still 100% functional. (worn paint, had to sharpen knife finally)

There is also this set with a scissors/file.

u/yamugushi · 12 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The only thing I can think of is 'TSA friendly' tools:

I think the better option -because I advocate always having a blade on you- would be to remember to just leave the blade in your car, or ask for it back when you leave. I'm not sure how often you go through security checks or what their posture is either so that advice could be useless.

u/powersurge360 · 11 pointsr/EDC

Victorinox makes a 'my first' pocket knife which has a rounded tip that will prevent stabbing. There's also the flight safe swiss army knife, the jetsetter if you don't want them to have a 'real' knife right away.

There's also the Leatherman Leap which has a user-installable knife so you can give them that part at a later date or remove it if it turns out they are irresponsible. And Leatherman has a flightsafe multitool too in the leatherman style

u/BillyNature · 11 pointsr/Bushcraft

This kind of folding saw is great for camp-scale stuff. And a nice 4" fixed blade knife that you can baton with is all you need to split it. I've heard this is a good starter knife for bushcrafting but I haven't got to use mine yet.

u/ANAL_PLUNDERING · 11 pointsr/knives

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)

Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

u/Kalahan7 · 11 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

u/Sneakyjackass269 · 11 pointsr/knives
u/nickelchip · 11 pointsr/fixit

To fix this spoon correctly, you will need a Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant. Be sure to read the comments of this knife for directions on how to fix this spoon, save a baby whale, and to become a country/western singer.

u/JordanTheBrobot · 10 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

u/Tadashi047 · 10 pointsr/knives

Although the Instant is an alright knife, I believe that it is overpriced at $40 with a blade of 7Cr17Mov steel.

Kershaw Clash is about 20 bucks, made with better steel (8CR13MOV), assisted opening and also has lifetime warranty.

Kershaw Skyline at the price range of $35 has better steel (14C28N) than the Clash, assisted opening and the same warranty.

u/sonicscrewup · 10 pointsr/amazonreviews
u/spaceyjdjames · 10 pointsr/magicTCG

I use one of these. It holds up to 12 decks (though you need to buy 2 to get the correct compartments for that)

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer

u/HilariousMax · 10 pointsr/knives
  • ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  • ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  • ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  • ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  • ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  • ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  • ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  • ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  • ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  • ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  • ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^

    Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.

    You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.

    Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
u/FuckingMightWail · 10 pointsr/buildapc

I was thinking the same thing. Do people not know that these exist? Moreover, how much easier they make your life? There's no substitute when the need arises.

u/CakeAccomplice12 · 10 pointsr/CrappyDesign

And this will solve any zip tie problem in an instant

u/Iamfivebears · 10 pointsr/boardgames

There's a Plano tool box where the related items are almost exclusively X-Wing ships.

u/fire84 · 9 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Spray, let it soak in, repeat.

u/TheCapn · 9 pointsr/TheBrewery

Leatherman Skeletool for about $60 and a Pelican 023500-0000-110 flashlight for about $30. It should be noted that those are prices for responsible people who don't lose them. I think I've bought the same leatherman 3 times now.

u/hiddenpoint · 9 pointsr/magicTCG

Just use one of these:


I used to have individual deck boxes for all my commander decks and switched them all to this. Fits up to 12 double-sleeved commander decks, or cut back to 11, and you have space for dice/tokens/etc.

u/GrandMoffFinke · 9 pointsr/XWingTMG

I’ve always really liked the Stanley storage units:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

u/blue_27 · 9 pointsr/bugout

Personally, I don't like hatchets. Too much room for error. I'd advise the Bahco.

I'd also consider the Sawyer for water filtration, as I think most water purification tablets taste nasty. If you are going to use them, bring some Crystal Light, or sweetened Kool-Aid or Gatorade to kill the taste.

Definitely need a map and compass, otherwise ... how do you know when you've reached your destination?

What are the Sharpies and the tampons for? How long is it supposed to sustain you? Are there any options to procure more food after the 4 days of rat bars run out?

I'd say that it needs work. 5/10? But these things really aren't quantifiable like that. Try it out for a weekend, and objectively analyze the deficiencies.


u/KelevRoim · 9 pointsr/XWingTMG

Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porsche Red

This seems to be an inexpensive and popular choice. It's what I we with when starting a collection.

u/FanFuckingFaptastic · 9 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman Style PS

Swiss Army Jetsetter

Just because the don't have a blade though doesn't mean the TSA won't take them. TSA don't give a shit, TSA just take what they want.

u/qupada42 · 9 pointsr/homelab

That problem is so easy to solve too.

Less than five bucks, flush-cut side cutters which will trim cable ties with no sharp edges whatsover.

Sometimes, cable ties are a fine tool for the job, just have to be used appropriately.

u/lSlS_CRISIS · 9 pointsr/AmazonUnder5

Peanut lighter (free shipping):

Paracord 25 feet (free shipping w/ prime):

Flint rod (free shipping):

CRKT Eat N Tool (free shipping):

US military can openers (free shipping w/ prime):

Wire Saw (free shipping):

Gerber Shard (free w/ prime):

Edit: More stuff

u/all_seeing_ey3 · 9 pointsr/Fitness
u/JasterMereel42 · 8 pointsr/Workbenches

I use the Stanley 10 bin and 25 bin trays. They're also great for my loose Lego collection so I have a few spares and pull one for whenever I need one in the garage or in the house.

This isn't a perfect solution though. I had to build a rack in order to store all of these containers. Also, it is a 2 step process to get anything out: 1) remove the tray from the rack and 2) open the container to get what I need. I'm fine with this though because it is ultra portable and the 2 step method isn't too much of a hinderance. Also, this way the storage density is pretty high and I can keep a lot of stuff in a small space.

u/yake12 · 8 pointsr/EDC

Links to the amazon pages for each product for easy access:

Gerber Dime

Gerber Shard

u/Raiders3005 · 8 pointsr/EDC

Gerber Shard

If opening bottles is a thing you need it for over a knife, which was not the case for me, I got rid of this tool as well.

Simple but it works

This is what I carry now, after ditching my shard as well because there's plenty of ways to open bottles and tweezers are crazy useful.

u/IANALAMA · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

I carry an Opinel No 8 everywhere i go. i use it to cut food and light gardening work (trimming, pruning, cut twine to tie up tomatoes, etc). "everywhere" includes backpacking, and any kind of travel. it's short enough and no spring assist, so it doesn't conflict with local laws when i travel.

when i'm backpacking i also carry a small wire key ring with the following:

Key Ring

Leatherman Micra

Gerber Shard

Streamlight Nano

if i'm doing any kind of campfire, then i bring a mora companion to do any processing that i'll need.

u/s_s · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

Philosophy: spend as much money as you can on the best Big 3 you can. Leave worrying about shaving grams with titanium mugs and other small shit until you get bored and you budget is bigger. :)

Big 3: $610

  • Tarptent double rainbow - $275
  • Enlightened equipment - RevX 40 - $180
  • ULA CDT - $135
  • Thremarest Ridgerest SOlite (Torso length) - $20

    Cooking: $24.50

  • Stanco Greasepot: $10
  • Tritan LMF spork: $2
  • Supercat stove: Free
  • Aluminum foil windscreen: free +effort
  • Reflectix pot cozy: $10 + effort
  • Bic mini: $0.50
  • Waterbottles: 2x 1L Kroger-brand generic smart water bottles: $2

    First Aid: $32

  • Scentless Zinc oxide creme: $5
  • Moleskins: $2
  • Dr. Bronners unscented baby-mild soap: $5
  • Band-aids: free
  • Ducktape: free
  • ibuprofen: free
  • Imodium: free
  • 100% DEET: $5
  • sunscreen: free
  • Aqua Mira tablets: $15

    Clothing: $64

  • baseball cap: free
  • bandana: free
  • synthetic t-shirt from walmart: $5
  • dri-ducks 100 wt fleece $32
  • nylon gym shorts: free
  • running shoes: free
  • socks (2 pair): $27
  • garbage bag poncho: free

    Other: $58

  • headlamp: $35
  • leatherman squirt: $23

    Total: $788.50

    base weight : ~10lbs
u/DerangedDiphthong · 8 pointsr/knives

Start by carefully inspecting the sharpener. Then take it off of your keychain. Lastly you can toss it into the trashcan and go onto Amazon for a whetstone like this combination 1000/6000 grit waterstone. Make sure to do a bit of research on sharpening technique as well.

Those pull-through sharpeners remove an excess of metal and provide a subpar edge.

u/PapaShane · 8 pointsr/EDC

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

u/TheStuffle · 8 pointsr/EDC

The Ontario RAT Model 1 and the Byrd CaraCara 2 are worth looking at.

u/Jongmi2 · 8 pointsr/Bushcraft

$100 to spend? Lets get him started out right!

Fixed blade knife and Saw for Bushcraft tasks:

Bahco has a combo kit with a Mora fixed blade knife and a folding saw for $28.50 at Amazon:

Folding Knife for food prep:

Add an Opinel #8 for $20:

or an Ontario RAT 1 for $25:

Axe for fire prep:

Cold Steel Trail Boss fo $32:


That pretty much covers all things pointy and sharp to get him started in bushcraft for a grand total of $85.50

As he learns and develops more bushcraft skills he can upgrade when needed but this will get him started out with some solid gear.

u/bunnyhopskotch · 8 pointsr/EDC
u/Eccentrica_Gallumbit · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.

If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.

u/AnalogKid2112 · 8 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

I picked up a bunch of cheap part drawers like these when they were on sale at a local store. Very easy to organize stuff if you have the desk space.

u/fatangaboo · 8 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use these to organize and store SMD components.

I use these enormously big-ass cabinetrys to store thru-hole components such as ICs in DIP packages.

u/GnashRoxtar · 8 pointsr/EDC

So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.

So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.

Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.

Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.

In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.

I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.

First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

[Kershaw Scrambler] (

[Kershaw Leek] (

[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (

[Fenix PD35 2014] (

[Nitecore SENS AA version]

Zebra F-301

[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (

[Leatherman Skeletool] (

[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (

Larger car first aid kit

EDIT: aspace

u/bowl-of-nails · 8 pointsr/EDC


Watch: Luminox Navy Seal, it was a gift from my dad on my 18th birthday

Organizer: Hitch & Timber Runt 2.0 with a Wet Ones hand wipe in the back pocket

Chapstick: Burts Bees Vanilla Bean with electrical tape on it so its easier to pull out of the organizer

Flashlight: RovyVon A8U with a random paracord thing i made

Wallet: Maxpedition LPW

Pen: Pilot G2

Mulitool: Leatherman Style PS

Keys: Linwnil belt key hanger with a set of 2 KeySmart MagConnects, with a sim card remover too

u/panascope · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k


If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.


You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.


The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.


Try these


You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming


Object Source Lighting

u/LSatyreD · 8 pointsr/RBA

Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!

Part I


So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.

  • Wire. Start with a mix of different gauge Kanthal.

  • Wire cutters.

  • Ceramic tweezers. These are for adjusting your coils once they are installed.

  • A coiling jig. You can use anything from a nail to a precision screwdriver to a syringe, however I very strongly recommend this set.

  • Cotton. I've tried every brand of cotton out there, they are all the same. Just go to your local CVS/Walgreens/Whole Foods/Walmart/etc and pick up a big bag of cotton balls, they will last you a life time for about $5. Seriously, a life time.

  • [Optional] Ohm meter. This is only optional because you are using a regulated device, it is required for mech mods. The Kanger will not fire if your coil is bad or too low of a resistance (about 0.4 ohms in my experience).

    Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.


    Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.


    Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.


    Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.

    To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).

    Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.

    [Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).


    Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.

    Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.

    Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).


    Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.

    With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).


    Permalink to Part II:

    edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.
u/poo-poo · 8 pointsr/EDC

For reference, this was the Kershaw Leek 3" blade

u/starcade_ · 7 pointsr/XWingTMG

It’s a Stanley professional organizer! Here’s the link

u/infamous-spaceman · 7 pointsr/educationalgifs

For my money I'd take a folding saw over a pocket chainsaw any day. The chainsaws take a lot more work to use, and there are a lot more potential points of failure. Also at least in regards to that chainsaw, it's heavier than a folding saw. The biggest downside is price, although this one is on sale right now and isn't that pricey:

You can't go wrong with the Laplander, it's pretty much the standard for folding saws.

u/prepperdoc · 7 pointsr/preppers

I actually don't carry a hatchet, I carry a folding saw and a heavy duty knife. I plan on batoning with the knife if I need to split things.

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI

u/ZombieKingKong · 7 pointsr/EDC

get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:

-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).

-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.

-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.

-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.

I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) thumb hole deployment - speedsafe - thumbstud - flip

Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).

These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.

u/Connguy · 7 pointsr/makemychoice

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

u/ARKnife · 7 pointsr/knives

Ontario RAT 1.

Took me a while to find a better quality knife.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

u/lepermessiah57 · 7 pointsr/cigars

Spyderco, Kershaw, benchmade are all quality knives with kershaw being on the lower end. For an every day carry, I love my kershaw skyline,

It's relatively cheap, good blade style, light, solid steel.

u/whydoievenreddit · 7 pointsr/IndianFood

Here are some affordable and extremely high quality whetstones. I recommend getting at least the 320# and 1000# or 2000#. The $2-3 whetstones will be of shitty quality, not something I'd be happy to use on a kitchen knife.

u/limmone · 7 pointsr/EDC

I bought this a while back. Pretty cheap as well.

u/PhenomenalDouche · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

u/Duke_Spanks · 7 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I've owned the Kershaw G10 Hawk ($15) and the Kershaw Skyline ($34).

Both are nice knives, I consider the G10 an excellent light use knife because it is is light and small. The thumb stud is hard to get purchase on, I took a file and cut a groove in the handle so I could get at it easier, very easy to do.

The Skyline is similar, larger blade, they'll sharpen it for you if you mail it in (I think for free, besides postage), no steel liners in the handle, very easy to open (flipper).

u/accidental_reader · 7 pointsr/Cooking

Amazon has a stone for 30 bucks. It's perfect. It comes with a stand and a case, is great for sharpening both western and Japanese steel, looks beautiful and doesn't break the bank. The brand is called a king stone or something like that. It stands up really well to professional use. My sous even dropped his and one side cracked in half but it still works beautifully.

u/night_86 · 7 pointsr/RocketLeague

Just take a look at "Customer Questions & Answers" of this monster!

u/Bohemous · 7 pointsr/knives

I would suggest one of these. No matter what activity you do that day, you should be covered with that.

u/mtpmc · 7 pointsr/EDC

Left to Right, mostly:

Green Cards - I switch this out with other cards pretty regularly, but it matched today. ( )

Slim Wallet - It's super thin and it attaches to my phone. ( )

Watch - It's durable and in my opinion doesn't look too bad for the price. ( )

Wireless Earbuds - They are dated so they aren't the best anymore, but they are still pretty good. ( )

Multitool - It doesn't have a knife so I take this to school. It's not the best, but it does small things great. ( )

Flashlight - For the size, it is really bright. It doesn't last forever, but it is rechargeable. I recommend it for something small. ( )

Knife - This sub knows this knife. ( )

Necklace - Totally normal carbon fiber dog tag. ( )

If anyone has any questions about any of this stuff, leave a comment and I'll do my best to respond. To clarify, the knife goes in my pocket and I put on the necklace after school. 

Thanks for taking the time to check out my post! Have a good rest of your day everyone!

u/SamuraiJustice · 7 pointsr/cableporn

I've been cut by many zipties.

CHP-170 Micro Cutter

To leave them flush. Everyone who comes after will thankyou

u/GreyLordQueekual · 7 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For the sprues you need some actual sprue cutters

Nothing much more expensive than those as you really shouldn't run into a need for hard jobs from them

Should also consider some mini files

Something that really let you get at small angles, ideally you do these things before glueing but can be done after.

Doing everything with the exacto is definitely dangerous, and theres not often a need to put your hands in that much danger.

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/hansmoman · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like): Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip Leaded solder Brushes Side cutters Flux Solder Wick KimWipes Isopropyl Alcohol Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly) Jewelers loupe Tweezers Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

u/pyromaster55 · 7 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

u/prebres · 7 pointsr/arduino

I have 6 of these: Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black

u/hopped · 7 pointsr/hometheater

These self adjusting wire strippers are pretty fantastic:

u/VillainTricks · 7 pointsr/EDC
u/Melphor · 6 pointsr/XWingTMG

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

u/Sqyr3l · 6 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use a Plano 5231 for my tournament box.

2 Level Plano container has plenty of compartments up top for tokens, asteroids, damage decks galore. As well as flat ships like X-Wings etc, bottom level deep enough to hold YTs and Decimators with ease, as well as pilot cards, loadouts, and taller ships, like Ties and B-Wings

u/pour_bees_into_pants · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.

WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.

u/Philanthropiss · 6 pointsr/todayilearned

Yeah that's easy. PB far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

u/kds1398 · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

Inspired by this design with very few changes.

This is a wort/water pumping box that shields the pump from the elements/spills and allows you to use a simple switch button to turn the pump on and off instead of having to plug/unplug it to power cycle it. It also protects the pump head/pump body from getting damaged because I'm clumsy. It also provides 2 extra GFCI outlets for you to plug in a computer or anything else as needed.


  • Stainless head Center Inlet Pump 3/4" Inlet x 1/2" outlet - Chugger pumps - $160
  • Toolbox Harbor Freight - $15
  • 1-7/8" bi metal hole saw to make hole for charger inlet - Ace Hardware - $8
  • 15-amp 125-vold black charger inlet - Amazon - $11 - this has gone up significantly since I bought it
  • 15 amp weather resistant tamper resistant GFCI outlet - Amazon - $20
  • Stainless Wall plate - Amazon - $4
  • Illuminated Maintained Contact Pushbutton Switch, 22mm 120/240V- Auber Instruments - $12 - Light comes on when button is pressed & switches power to surge strip on. Shiny. Pretty. 600x better than a wall switch.

    Fittings for pump:

  • 1/2" stainless hex nipple - Bargain Fittings
  • 1/2" stainless NPT 90 degree elbow - Bargain Fittings
  • 3/4" stainless NPT x 1/2" reducing coupling - Bargain Fittings
  • 1/2" Stainless NPT 3 piece ball valve - Bargain Fittings

    Had on hand:

  • Irwin 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips - These things are awesome and if you do any wiring projects, they save tons of time
  • Power strip - Looks like this one
  • White, black, and green 14ga electrical wire
  • Spade connectors
  • Electrical Tape
  • Linesmans pliers/Screwdrivers/adjustable wrenches/circuit tester/power drill/drill bits
  • Step drill bits - Harbor Freight - Not sure how long these will last, but they've worked so far
  • Teflon tape
  • 1/4"x6"x10" scrap wood
  • 3 Small bolts/3 nuts/6 washers - This part was a mess. First I tried wood screws, then the bolts I had were too long, then I cut those bolts down and I couldn't get the nut on the bolt, then the wood I mounted the pump on was full toolbox length & I couldn't get it back in the toolbox so I had to cut it, then the bolt heads on the underside of the board made the pump unstable.


  • 12' 1/2" ID Silicon tubing cut into 2 6' pieces
  • 2xStainless Steel Male Disconnect
  • 2xStainless Steel Female Disconnect - I've bought these from morebeer & midwestsupplies & while they are slightly different in appearance, they both work interchangeably.
  • 4xHose clamps
  • 4x1/2" NPT Female x 1/2" hose barb

    Build Steps:

  1. Drill a hole using the bimetal hole saw where you want to run your plug from the wall to the toolbox.
  2. Cut out a hole where you want your GFCI outlet to go. I used a dremel, it doesn't really matter what you use.
  3. Line up your gfci outlet and plate how you want them & drill holes so you can screw the plate -> GFCI -> box to secure it.
  4. Drill a 7/8"/22.5mm hole using a step bit or punch an appropriate size hole where you want your power switch to go.
  5. Cut a small 1/4" x6"x whatever length you want bit of wood to mount the pump on.
  6. Drill appropriate holes using a step bit where you want them for your pumps outlet/inlet.
  7. Mount the top half of the switch. Make sure you line it up so it's easy to wire the bottom half & attach it to the mounted top part.
  8. Remove back rubber piece from charger inlet. Cut 3 wires (one each: black, white, green) long enough to reach from your charger inlet to the line on the GFCI outlet. Strip ~1/2" off each end of the wire. Insert into appropriate colored hole on back of charger inlet and screw them in tight.
  9. Unscrew metal band from back of charger inlet. Insert into hole you drilled in step 1, screw band on to tighten and feed all 3 wires through rubber piece & slide rubber piece on back of inlet.
  10. Screw Hot (black) to line Hot side (Usually gold screws), screw Neutral (white) to line neutral side (Usually silver screws), and Ground (green) to ground screw on GFCI outlet.
  11. Cut plug off of surge protector & strip back outer sheath to expose 3 wires inside. Now it's time to wire up your switch to provide power to the surge protector.
  12. Cut a black wire long enough to go from the Hot Load side of the GFCI outlet to the bottom of the switch. Strip 1/2" of insulation off both ends. Crimp a spade terminal on one side, screw the other side into the Hot Load side of the GFCI. Hook the spade side into the post labeled 23 on the switch.
  13. Now you'll need to do some splicing. I used compression sleeves, but feel free to do it however you want. The Neutral (white) wire from the surge strip needs to be split. Strip the end on the surge protector wire, cut and strip 2 white wires, long enough to reach the switch and GFCI outlet and splice them together with the surge strip wire. Crimp a spade terminal on one and hook it up to X1 on the switch. Hook the other wire up to the Neutral Load side of the GFCI outlet.
  14. Cut 2 Hot (Black) wires long enough to be able to reach the switch from the end of the surge strip, strip the ends, and splice them together with the hot (black) wire coming from the surge strip. Crimp spade connectors on the ends of both wires. Hook one spade onto X2 on the switch & the other onto 24.
  15. Screw the ground (green) wire from the surge strip onto the ground post on the GFCI (You have 2 wires on the ground on the GFCI now, right?).
  16. Attach the bottom half of the switch to the top half. It just snaps in place.
  17. Put your fittings on your pump & mount it and the wood it's sitting on to the toolbox by drilling holes through the wood/bottom of the toolbox & using bolts/nuts. In mine, I only used 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump base & 1 additional one to secure it to the bottom of the box.
  18. Screw the GFCI/outlet cover into the box.
  19. Plug your pump into the surge protector.
  20. Close everything up, apply electrical tape where appropriate. The light on the switch will come on when pressed & anything plugged into the surge strip will get powered (the pump will start). The GFCI outlet has power with a small indicator light that tells you it's properly grounded as soon as the box is plugged in.

    Switch overview in brief:

  • X1 - Neutral load from GFCI -> X1 & surge protector
  • X2 & 24 - Hot from surge protector
  • 23 - Hot load from GFCI

    Note about using step bit: It kicks out pretty hard when you move between steps. My wrist hurts today from it binding up a bit between steps and torquing my wrist.

    I did submit this yesterday, but the link that imgur provided was giving 404 errors when you viewed it, so I deleted that post & resubmitted.
u/bbenson · 6 pointsr/backpacking

I'm a big fan of the Leatherman Skeletool.

You can get it relatively cheaply if you look around online a bit.

It's not full of stuff you will never use. It's got a nice sized blade, reliable pliers, and a solid carabiner clip (that's also a bottle opener) to keep it from going anywhere.

u/j000p · 6 pointsr/EDC

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

u/VaguePeeSmell · 6 pointsr/knives
u/Karnblack · 6 pointsr/EDH

I haven't had an issue with these deck boxes either and I've kept some decks in them for almost 10 years. If I end up dropping one and cracking it I'm only out a couple of bucks rather than $10+.

I transport up to 12 decks in the Stanley Organizer ( like so: Decks for Magic Fest Las Vegas

If I only want to take up to 4 decks those clear plastic deck boxes easily fit into the Ultimate Guard Arkhive:

u/quackor_sg · 6 pointsr/EDH

I bought two of the 10-compartment versions so I can have all deck-sized trays in one box, but upon receiving it I noticed you can actually fit the nice crystal commander boxes in place of the yellow compartments, so you should be fine just buying one and replacing the double-size trays with those.

u/LucanDesmond · 6 pointsr/EDH

Everyone has already made great suggestions for your current collection so I'm just going to add a suggestion for the future if your collections expands. I have 22 decks. For a collection of that size, all those individual boxes are a pain, get these:

u/Bigslug333 · 6 pointsr/chefknives

I recommend the Victorinox Fibrox, it performs well, it's comfortable and it's very durable. If you find the Fibrox handle too ugly, they offer the same blade but with a rosewood handle.

Care wise, touch up the edge with a hone to ensure it performs the best it can before you begin preparing food. Eventually however the edge will wear down, at which point you will need to sharpen it. For this I recommend the Shapton Kuromaku 1000, for guidence on how to use a whetstone check this playlist out.

The whetstone itself will also need to be maintained, as you use it you will wear it down unevenly and it will need to be flattened. Most people use a diamond plate but there is a more cost effective option that I use which is lapping the stone using SiC powder on glass, which is done like this (be aware however, that this method is MUCH louder and a bit messier than lapping with a diamond plate).

If all of this sounds like too much and you want a more simple care solution then you can get by very well by just using a ceramic sharpening rod. It combines the ability to touch up the edge quickly before use with the ability of a whetstone to remove material from the blade.

I got by with just a ceramic rod for a long time, but eventually bought whetstones when I wanted more control/better long term maintenance.

u/pancaaakes · 6 pointsr/EDC
u/crossborder_commuter · 6 pointsr/EDC

So this is what I have with me usually when going to work. Which is a 1h journey by high speed train, crossing an international border.

  • The large knife is a Spyderco Native.
  • And there is another Spyderco hiding in there too.
  • The tiny flashlight is a Lenser K1
  • The small flashlight is, I think, a Fenix
  • 16 GB Thumbdrive
  • iPhone 5S
  • Beyerdynamic iDX 160 iE earbuds
  • eVic Supreme eCigarette with a Nautilus Aspire tank
  • A Schneider eXtra Document Pigment Pen
  • A lightning cable
  • Victorinox SwissTool Spirit III
  • CRKT Eat N Tool
  • Leatherman Squirt PS4
  • A Victorinox quick-release key ring, released
  • NiteIze key holder, keys, car key
  • Bellroy Wallet
  • Plasters Travel Kit
  • Passport
  • Maxpedition Pouch (and another, the MaxPedition EDC not shown)

    Link to highres picture What addition would compliment this EDC?
u/thompssc · 6 pointsr/EDC

Descriptions with links

  1. Moleskin mini-notebook.

  2. Zebra F-301 Bold: Notebook and pen get dropped into my shirt pocket. On weekends, whether they come along is completely dependent on whether my shirt has a shirt pocket.

  3. Seiko 5 SNK793: Just got this last week actually, but I really like it. I had a Hamilton Jazzmaster before and, while a quality piece and I love the style, the case was just too big/heavy for my liking. I found myself wearing my Timex weekender on a NATO strap more and more. This has a very similar case size, although slightly thicker/heavier due to automatic movement. Something classy/understated enough for work.

  4. Maratac Copper AAA: I really love this thing. This is not the newest version (rev 3), so it only has low/high, but that's all I really need. Feels very solidly made, I have dropped it numerous times and it has nary a mark. Despite the exterior being solid copper, it isn’t as heavy as I thought it would be and I never even notice it in my pocket, even in dress pants. I leave the clip on so I can set it on my desk/counter and not have it roll off, but often don’t bother to clip it to my pocket. Sometimes I’ll clip it to my coin pocket in jeans but usually just leave it in my right pocket with my keys. I don’t know what to say other than that I really love this thing.

  5. Leatherman Squirt ps4: Very small, disappears into my pocket. Even in dress pants at work, I don't feel this weighing them down at all.

  6. Keysmart with 2 apartment keys: The rivets tend to come loose, which is a little annoying. May throw some Loctite or something on the threads to keep them be. Otherwise, I like it.

  7. Nexus 4: Love this phone. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon. Unless they come out with a phone that will bake me cookies or dispense coffee, the only reason I'll move on is that this one dies.

  8. SOG Fielder: SOG Fielder. Just like guns, black means you obviously want to kill people but any kind of wood stock/handle means you probably just have it for utility. /s I actually really like this knife. Very classy, feels good in the hand, good weight. I get lots of compliments on it.

  9. Crappy wallet from Wal-mart or something

  10. Springfield Xds 3.3 in 9mm in a Crossbreed minituck
  • Love this pistol. Fun to shoot at the range and feels great in the hand. Well built, well balanced. So far, nearly 2k rounds in, no FTFs, no jams, no light strikes, nada. Trigger is a little stiff, but that kind of comes with the territory for a gun designed for CCW. I ordered the PRP trigger kit to lighten it a bit. Also, I’m probably going to have night sights installed soon. Nothing wrong with the stock ones, I just want night sights :).

    Minituck holster is great. I hiked 10 miles in the White Mountains last weekend and hardly noticed this setup at all. Will most likely go with Crossbreed for future holsters. I can successfully tuck in a shirt around the gun if need be with this one. (I do not carry at work because my employer does not allow it)
u/TheChaoticDoctor · 6 pointsr/KingkillerChronicle

I've got roughly 3lb's of chessex dice; I use this to store them all at this point. But thank you for the offer. :)

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] ( or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/faultysynapse · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

Oh fun! $500 is a good amount to work with. I am going to assume he has absolutely nothing as you said full kit.

This folding saw is just awesome, and on sale! I've had one for many years. About $22.

This Knife is a lot more heavy duty than the Moras people will inevitably recommend (not that there is anything wrong with them). It's also a lot more expensive. I think it would make a nice gift. Also on sale. $104.

A pot $15.

A Silnylon tarp $63.

Gotta have paracord $10

There are a lot of firesteels out there but this one was uber cheap and looks just like the one I've had for years. >$2.

I would HIGHLY recommend a small forest of Hultafors, Wetterlings, or Gransfors Bruks make. I couldn't find a good link for them on Amazon. They'll be about $150

All told that list(including and axe) is about $360 before tax and shipping) Obviously a pack to put it would top it all off and bring you pretty close to $500 mark. It's just too personal a choice and I can't begin recommend one.

What stuff if any does he have already? A blanket or sleeping bag could be a good choice. A small alcohol stove too.

u/Woltz_Sandage · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from ( because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video.

So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. and the following links for the items.

Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot.

And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.

And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.

Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.

Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.

I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.

Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

u/NoRedditAtWork · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

Clearing things up a bit here, what folks are trying to do is:

A) Not be rude and say that's a garbage knife. The Golden Rule of Knives as far as I'm concerned is that the best knife you have is the one you have on you when you need it. If you have nothing else - high five - that'll do.

B) If you like the skull pattern and whatnot, that's awesome - whatever floats your boat. Most knives you'll see posted here aren't as gaudy or 'mall ninja' (see /r/mallninjashit for an idea of what that means). Knives like that though generally tend to be cheap in both the materials used and the QC for the finished product.

C) There are much better knives you could purchase for $35. Where did you even find that for $35? I wasn't able to find it on Amazon for that price and, relative to what I was seeing listed there, that knife should be ~<$20.

The Spyderco Tenacious is $35 from Amazon right now and is a great starting knife. Some options from Kershaw include the Leek, Skyline or a variety of other models. Someone also mentioned the Ontario Rat 1 which I don't have experience with myself, but is a widely loved knife at the price point. You can also check the $0-100 suggested knife guide for more options.

TL;DR: I don't want to make you feel bad for having that knife, but the $35 could have gotten you better steel, ergonomics and end product quality spent elsewhere.

u/NathCraft27 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

u/Quiet_Dev · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.

u/pdb1975 · 6 pointsr/EDC

Dat G19. Big enough to be a real gun, small enough to pack everywhere.

You need a better knife, though. What's "expensive" to you? $27? $35? Another one for $35

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 6 pointsr/knives
u/NoMansKing · 6 pointsr/EDC

If you are OK with buying brand new, a few popular options here are some suggestions with Amazon (USA) links:

u/haruman · 6 pointsr/cade

T-molding. You need to cut "V" notches to go around an outside corner like in that photo. To go around an inside corner, you need slits. No need for a special notching tool (they are very expensive), you can do everything with a cheap pair of wire clippers like this:

Use a rubber mallet to tap it into the slot.

u/novel_yet_trivial · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.

With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).

u/Zak · 6 pointsr/EDC
u/EmericTheRed · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

For your money, there's nothing better to start with than a King 1k/6k combo stone. I personally hate long soaking stones (splash and go is the way to do it imo), but it has fantastic feedback and lets you practice/develop your muscle memory on the cheap.

u/magicfap · 6 pointsr/woodworking

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

u/oogiewoogie · 6 pointsr/minimalism

Swiss Army Knives? Buy one for $1371 and it replaces all 228 different tools around your house, eliminating the need for a toolbox.

Now whether it will save you time actually trying to find what you need, is a different matter.

u/Captcha_Imagination · 6 pointsr/canada

If you're under 18 YO you're only allowed to carry the Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife

u/you-down-with-CIP · 5 pointsr/TheBrewery

Been pretty happy with Kershaw knives as my everyday carry; using the Kershaw Skyline at the moment and it's lasted a few years with minimal maintenance.

Stopped carrying multi-tools in the brewery a long time ago. They weigh a ton, cost a lot, and are usually a poor substitute for the tool I really need. If I really need a pair of pliers/screwdriver/wire stripper, I just walk my happy ass over to the tool chest and get the right tool for the job.

u/abakedcarrot · 5 pointsr/chefknives

For $120 and two knives, there is the omnipresent starter option - the Tojiro DP line.

I'd start with the gyuto or the santoku. They overlap for the larger tasks and its really more preference on the shape. They both are too thin and the steel is too brittle to cut bones or hard vegetables (pumpkin/squash) with (which your Wusthof can take care of) but will go through veg and protein pretty easily.

Then you have budget left over for the petty, which is kind of like a long thin paring knife. Good for smaller tasks or things that need delicate tip work.

you might even have some budget left over to pick up a stone. This is a popular beginner option.

Edit: The other option is MAC knives. Same shapes apply

u/Fingerdrip · 5 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Don't waste time with those sharpening systems. Buy two good quality whetstones, a 1000 grit and a 6000 grit and learn to use them. It's not difficult and the result is so much better. While not the best around, this is a really good start and even cheaper than the Lansky system.

u/desertsail912 · 5 pointsr/AskCulinary

I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.

u/Seven_Sword_Style · 5 pointsr/EDC
u/skorm305 · 5 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Here's a good one if you're looking for something simple and low price.

u/LucidicShadow · 5 pointsr/humorousreviews
u/shahdawg · 5 pointsr/EDH

I have one of these that I store a lot of my decks in. Very cheap too. And if you wanna replace the big bins with smaller one's theyre only ~$2

u/__Why · 5 pointsr/declutter

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.

In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.

So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video:

I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

  • Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks).

  • Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage

  • This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash.

  • Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations.

  • A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one:
u/jesuswithoutabeard · 5 pointsr/Survival

I have one of THESE guys. It stays sharp and works wonders for the weight. Takes a bit longer to get through hardwood because of the length, but it's a nice workout so all's good in my book.

TL;DR: I have a giant right bicep because of this saw.

u/hecticlorax · 5 pointsr/WildernessBackpacking

ESEE-3 is the fixed blade knife I bring backpacking and its all i've ever needed. carrying a folding saw on top of that is all you would ever need for faster processing of wood. the two items below are less than half a lb (~7.2 oz)

u/alfredbordenismyname · 5 pointsr/knives

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

u/EbayNachos · 5 pointsr/knives

>Perhaps because most people just clip them to their belts

I respectfully disagree, I would say most people pocket carry.

For a very think knife the Kershaw Leek is very thin.

u/Bonheim · 5 pointsr/intj

I carry this Kershaw Needs Work as my etc, and this smaller CRKT when I'm at work in nice clothes.

u/vbaspcppguy · 5 pointsr/Jeep

Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:

u/d_paulson · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

  1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.

  2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.

  3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.

  4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.

  5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.

    Power Tools

  6. A Dremel

  7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.

  8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.

  9. A drill press

    Also, there are fluids to consider

  10. Simple Green

  11. Penetrating oil

  12. Wood Glue

  13. Mineral Spirits

  14. Linseed Oil

    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
u/HuggableBear · 5 pointsr/woodworking

Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.

The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.

Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.

u/JamesRiav · 5 pointsr/beadsprites

I recently purchased an Akro-Mils 64-drawer, and it has been absolutely magnificent. Each drawer comfortably stores a 1000 count bag of beads, with some room to spare. There is no back on the unit, which I thought was odd at first, but this has not been an issue in use. All in all, it has ended up being a really solid option for this hobby.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black

Edit: Added some details 😊

u/ZIIIIIIIIZ · 5 pointsr/lego

I just started on this venture myself, and I am planning on using some of these: to store the bricks in. They have different versions that include all large bins, and a mix of the two.

Now looking at your picture, if you can imagine for a minute, my plan is to have a worktable something like your bottom half, and then above mounted on the walls I would place those parts containers.

I was also thinking that on the workbench I would secure down some of the larger baseplates as a build/play area.

I have measure my wall, and I could hold 15 of those storage bins, but really i would only get about have or so due to the table.

In my mind this sounds good....but I will have to see how it goes....and post pictures!

u/rabk294 · 5 pointsr/AFOL

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it to you anyway: sort by need. I'm a WWII diorama and vehicle builder. I have separate large plastic containers for brown plates, green plates, white plates, tan plates, dark tan plates, etc; all earth tones that I'll need a lot of for dioramas. I also have large bins for grass pieces and leaf pieces. I use small drawers for the vehicle parts that get used frequently. The rest of my parts are generally just used as "filler" parts for unseen sections of my dioramas, so they're sorted very roughly. I've included a link to the drawers that I use.

tl;dr: Depending on your building style, you'll need different organization. Experiment, and try to decide what's best for you. No two builders need the same organization.

u/OralOperator · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

These wire strippers are amazing. They save me so much time!

IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8-Inch (2078300)

u/FreedomPullo · 5 pointsr/Knife_Swap

Leatherman - Skeletool® Multi-Tool, Stainless Steel
Still $41.25 without Prime.
Your account doesn't really matter as long as its flaired but this is the first time a knifeswapper has been concerned about doxxing.... Also sort of a red flag? I would probably keep the worry about Internet enemies quiet :)

u/jsmayne · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

wallet in front pocket leatherman in back pocket

funny enough the leatherman is usually worth more than the cash I'm carrying

u/dablackcat0 · 5 pointsr/EDH

Buy yourself one of these puppies. It holds 12 decks. The compartments fit just about any 100+ deck box or you can just leave the deck in the compartment on its own.

u/cesarfalldown · 5 pointsr/mtgcube

I use a Stanley organizer. It has 10 compartments; 8 small and two large. The small compartments can each hold a double sleeved commander deck, the large compartments can hold about 200.

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer

u/sobrique · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

Whiskey is absolutely not too boring. :)


u/cthulhubert · 5 pointsr/EDC

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use:

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled:
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though:
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay:
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it:
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium:

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber:
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though:

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly:
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen:

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen):
Stainless Steel:

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror:

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one:

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing:

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

u/freefrench · 5 pointsr/france

je traine sur /r/frugal et comme idée cadeau j'ai trouvé cette année :

u/shiftyeyedgoat · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I think this fits the sub 50$ mark OP is requesting.

If you're looking for something a little smaller at half that price, the Leatherman Squirt PS4 has a fair amount of functionality for a 2.5" folded keychain addition.

u/NoTroop · 5 pointsr/EDC

The Leatherman Style PS is what I gotfor carrying in school, and it is supposed to be tsa compliant (as touted on their website here) however I have not tried it with mine.

Also, it is pretty small, but it's pretty much the only one I found without a knife that I knew is worth a damn.

u/dualboot · 5 pointsr/networking

Protip : The next time you send the grunts to cable up a new install, include a pair of inexpensive micro cutters. This makes removing all of the stupid twist ties go much more quickly and is far better on your fingers.

Bonus, these are also excellent for safely removing troublesome nylon zipties to be replaced with superiour velcro.

u/ImAghostGoon · 5 pointsr/Cloud_Chasers
u/Sunfried · 5 pointsr/networking

Agreed. I had to fight that instinct to save the twist-ties in case they're needed later, but between that and snips, the only thing left to complain about is the waste-- plastic bags, cardboard labels, and all the snipped-open twist-ties.

I use these wire snips, which cost $5 at Amazon. The point is sharp enough that you can get under a right tie and confidently snip the tie without worrying that some cable will blunder into the way. And if you're making your own cable, it's great for snipping off a bad plug, getting the length of the twisted pairs even, etc., and less unwieldy than the bits of the crimping tool that do those same things.

u/paingawd · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If cost isn't an issue, then one of the all-in-one kits should get you just about everything you need: Resistance meter, micro screwdrivers, pliers, coil wrapping tool/mandrels, scissors and some tweezers(Preferably ceramic tipped)

If you're tight on cash, there's a few routes to go. If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get most of what you need there.

  • Micro screwdriver kit: Most of these kits have screwdrivers in the most commonly wrapped coil sizes so that you can actually use the screwdriver as a mandrel for wrapping coils. 2, 2.4, 3 and 3.5 mm are all the most common size of coils, and I have found that I can wrap better coils than the kits can. Here's the set I use. You can find these on Amazon as well, and for not a lot of money.

  • Scissors: Most of the "All-in-One" kits are lacking in some way, and it's usually the scissors. The little fold-out scissors that are included couldn't cut through a wet kleenex. A good, smaller size set of scissors can be found at WalMart, HB, or Amazon and bonus if you're left-handed! You can get a set made just for your backwards hands!(I'm a lefty. I hate trying to use regular scissors for precision work!)

    Resistance Meter: Also referred to as an Ohm reader (shudders). If you're ever going to get into mechs, this is a necessity. Hell, when first building, it's a nice thing to have to check your build for shorts before you slap it on your mod. You can spend as low as $5 usd, or $35-$45 dollars for a Tab unit that can actually fire the coil to work out hot spots.

    Finally, cotton and wire. This has been bandied about ad nauseum about which type of wire and gauge is best, and the debate on wicking materials still comes up from time to time. So, I'll give you my two cents and leave it at that.

    Wire: 26 gauge kanthal. Why? It's easy to work with, provides good flavor and doesn't need to be run at insane wattage levels for great results. If high wattage vaping is your thing, get some 24 gauge. Better still, get both! I like 26 and 28 gauge(Twisted wire YAY!), you'll find your preference as you go. I didn't care for 24 gauge as it made the vape a bit too warm for my liking.

    Cotton for wicking? I swear by Labo Puffs. No "Fresh cotton" taste, easy to work with and lasts for EVAR. I'm still using the 120 pad bag I bought over a year ago, and it'll still be another six months before I need more. Here's the Amazon link for the Prime eligible pads. There are cheaper sellers, but they are in Japan and it can take a week to get to you.

    What's left? Wire cutters, of course! Nail clippers work alright, but something like this works even better!

    There's my suggestions and whatnot. Take or leave what you will, and welcome to the world of building!
u/SJToIA · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

u/dvgva · 5 pointsr/EDC

I'm not the best photographer, so here are the links to everything:

Watch: Eco Drive W/ NATO Band (Band was found on Massdrop)

Knife: Kershaw Blur S30V (Blue S30V W/ Blackwash finish can be found on Massdrop)

Pen: Fisher Space

Wallet: Big Skinny Slim

Notebook: Right in the Rain No954

Light: ArmyTek Prime C1 Pro

Lighter: Zippo Slim - Venetian High Polish

Candy: Life Saver Fruit

u/joule_thief · 5 pointsr/guns

I've got this one in my pocket right now.

Oddly enough, it's currently cheaper than the 1670BLK that I normally carry.

u/jrosh69 · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The kershaw blur in S30V is an amazon deal of the day. Kershaw Blur S30V Folding Pocket Knife (1670S30V); 3.4” S30V Blade with Stonewashed Finish and Anodized Aluminum Handle with Trac-Tec Inserts, SpeedSafe Assisted Opening, Reversible Pocketclip; 4 OZ

u/IceColdCarnivore · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw anything-with-SpeedSafe

S30V Blur is a great option

u/The_Joe_ · 5 pointsr/toolporn

I don't like busy pockets, and I don't have time to sharpen a knife. I carry a Gerber Razor knife because it fits in my watch pocket and I just change the blade every 7-20 days.

Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830]

Cannot possibly recommend this enough. Much nicer than the bulkier knives I used to carry, and it isn't showing much age after being in my pocket for a year.

Edit: $12.95.

u/kristhebrown · 5 pointsr/EDC
u/wikkid7798 · 5 pointsr/knives

Kershaw skyline

Kershaw chill

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

u/Silverlight42 · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

there's some good stuff in there.

I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.

also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.

oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.

As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.

oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.

oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

u/listen2 · 5 pointsr/knives

A little more than your gift card, but it's worth it. Well worth it.

u/mroystacatz · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Here are my personal essentials.

  • Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  • Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  • Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  • Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  • Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  • Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  • Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.

    Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.

    P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
u/Darth-Traya · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw Blur in s30v would be my suggestion.

It's assisted and has good steel. About 20 cm overall length open, so not too large, but not too small. And it's on sale. :)

I'll see if I can think of some others.

u/whatevrmn · 4 pointsr/technology

Take Amazon's money. Jesus fuck I overpaid for this at an Ace Hardware.

u/Eloquinn · 4 pointsr/homestead

I used to help my grandfather do this all the time when I was a kid. We castrated them when they were very young - about the size of a large cat. He always had a little, old-fashioned 2-blade folder that he carried everywhere and he'd spend half an hour sharpening it when it was time to do the castrating.

I'd hold the pig by the back legs and he'd slice them, remove the testicles, cut the cord and then swab them with iodine and let them go. There wasn't much blood at all... The scariest part was always the sows angrily squealing and looking for a way to get in and tear us apart...

If I were to do this today I'd probably use a utility knife with a fresh blade in it. No worries about sharpness and you can toss the blade when you're done. Check out the Gerber EAB. It's my every day carry and would probably work great for this.

I don't remember ever having to castrate a large pig. I do remember that he used bands to castrate the cows. Basically it was just a heavy duty rubber band that would cut off blood flow until the testicles just fell off. It sounds gruesome but it never seemed to cause them any distress and we never had issues with infection. I'm not sure if this would work on pigs but you could probably google it.

u/majornerd · 4 pointsr/EDC

I bought the gerber utility knife because everything else was too thick.

u/Colin42 · 4 pointsr/EDC

1 - Canadian pesos: great for censuring keys and exchanging for cheap goods.
2 - Kingston DataTraveler SE9 8GB USB 2.0
3 - Generic plastic cable stripper from idk where.
4 - Old 10 roentgen quartz pen dosimeter from (I think) Canadian forces surplus.
5 - Gerber 22-41830 EAB Pocket Knife
6 - Zebra Pen F-701
7 - Corsair 32GB voyager GO
8 - Olight i3E EOS EDC AAA LED Keychain Flashlight
9 - USB-C to Micro USB, One is in a 3d printed holder.
10 - Cheap but good sony headphones from bestbuy.

u/greath · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Lol, alright for example:

  • Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.

  • Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.

  • Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.

  • Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.

  • Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.

  • Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.

  • Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.

  • Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.

  • Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.

  • Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.

    There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
u/NecroGi · 4 pointsr/XWingTMG

You do have a problem...

It doesn't appear you have a case for them ;D

(I use these but you have bigger ships than I)

u/BZeeB · 4 pointsr/beadsprites

This is what I use. Unfortunately they are not completely sealed cubby spaces, so if you jostle it hard some of the beads may leak out into other cub holes. But each space fits 1000 beads very comfortably ~60 colors. If you mount it like its designed for you'll never have a problem.

u/chilidirigible · 4 pointsr/AnimeFigures

A couple of years ago, /u/DancingQueen5961 recommended this storage cabinet by Akro-Mils. I filed it in my wishlist and sat on the idea for a while.

Now I've finally bought one. Two of the concerns raised in the original thread do apply, specifically:

These single-sized drawers can't fit larger accessories. (The case with the multiple drawer sizes would be best for that.)

Front lip may catch on things when the drawer is opened. I might not use the figma bags for this reason. However, I'd probably still use some buffer material in the drawers to keep things from bouncing around too much.

The issue with too many drawers doesn't apply in my case: I actually have more figures with accessories than the cabinet has drawers, though as mentioned not all of them will have all of their accessories be suitable for the cabinet. But it's enough to work as I'm planning to use it for parts storage for the figures that I tend to change parts on often.

Now to actually finish loading the thing.

u/Kuiyy · 4 pointsr/lego

Akro-mils 64 drawer seems to be what most people here use.

u/robotgraves · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'll start with a meta one. How do you organize your parts?

I am currently using 4 of these:

with a mix of 15 of these:

And I feel like i just can't keep things as organized as I'd like. What do you do?

u/Cold_Sore_Bay · 4 pointsr/beadsprites

Thanks! I'm hoping I can pull off a decent finish. Nervous about the ironing phase since this will be my largest project to date. As for the organizer I came across them in post on this sub from a few years back. Here's the link to it on Amazon

The drawers perfectly fit a 1000 pack of beads. I just cut the names of the colors off the bags and tape them to drawers and then organize them in a rainbow spectrum.

u/Wis4W · 4 pointsr/Tools

I wonder how the Katapult compares to the cheaper but highly-rated Irwin model.

u/king_human · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Ontario RAT 1 in D2.

Damn it, I do always suggest a RAT. Oh, well, it's a damn good knife, and you can also pick up the AUS-8 version for like 20 bucks, too!

Edit: Added links. And it's like 26 bucks for the AUS-8 version on My bad.

u/NickEff · 4 pointsr/Chefit

Hey dude.

First of all, congratulations on picking up a good nakiri. Tojiro's whole line of knives and cleavers are solid as hell and a great bang for your buck. The first knife I ever picked up for my wife when she started working in restaurants was a Tojiro, and it still gets used all the time.

If I were you, I'd do as /u/mangoforfeit said and get a King Stone. They're under $30 on Amazon right now, which is a steal, and it'll be all you need for a while.

I don't know who put the idea that using "German" vs "Japanese" steel on a stone is going to make a difference, but it won't. You can sharpen low HRC steel on the same stones you sharpen high HRC steel, but the higher the hardness of the blade, the longer it'll take you. I have an Aritsugu gyuto that I sharpen once a week, and that shit is a fucking work out 65 HRC and 11 inches. For that one, I go 1000 grit, 3000 grit, and then 6000 grit.

Korin has a great video series on how to use whetstones. If you want to practice before you start trying to get the angles right on your real knives, that's fine. But bear in mind that sharpening is a process, and you're not going to fuck up one of your knives with one or two errant strokes.

Basically, buy the stones, watch a few videos, and then get to it.

u/wellrelaxed · 4 pointsr/Chefit

Just buy a Japanese waterstone. They're really easy to use, and will sharpen anything to a razor edge. You don't need any kind of stand, just put it on a wet towel. 'King' brand are really good:

u/Juhyo · 4 pointsr/Cooking

This is a link to the whetstone:

In terms of honing versus sharpening:

Even though the knife's edge looks smooth, it is in fact a ton of micro-sized teeth (think of a serrated knife, but with teeth that are muuuch smaller). As you cut, sometimes the teeth will become misaligned -- that is, instead of them all being pointed in the same, specific direction and angle, they might start "bending" or "blunting." When you hone the edge of a knife, you straighten out these teeth and realign them in one direction. Boom, it's cutting more smoothly now.

But sometimes, instead of the teeth simply bending in a different direction, the tip of the tooth might get chipped or broken due to use. Think of a sharp pencil tip that has accidentally snapped. Not so good at writing in a sharp line -- and the knife is not so good at cutting cleanly (it will blunt foods instead). At this point, you need to sharpen the knife by shaving off bits of steel, as you would the lead and wood from a pencil. Once it's sharpened, and you've scrapped off a microscopic thin layer of steel, the knife's teeth are all sharp and ready to go again.

Edit: And a link to a machine knife sharpener

u/Simpsator · 4 pointsr/AskCulinary

You need a honing rod for a German steel knife like this. The one thing to watch out for though, and which is why you usually by a branded honing rod is that you need the steel of the rod to be harder than the knife. There are lots of cheap shitty honing rods out there with steel that's softer than the knife. You could throw on a King 1k/6k combination whetstone for any real sharpening needs. You really don't need anything lower than 1k grit unless you're regularly sharpening up a knife/cleaver that's going through a lot of bones or the aforementioned coconuts and gets serious edge damage often.

u/daguz · 4 pointsr/triangle

This is exactly what you are NOT looking for but I'll say it anyway... just to hear myself talk:

I just bought a Whetstone from amazon and am amazed how easy it is with the right equipment. I was using a diamond stone and gave up. This was cheap and I get a perfect edge in minutes. The edge lasts longer than using the diamond. Don't forget to use a steel everytime you use the knife anyway.

u/Brutally-Honest- · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I would recommend a diamond stone over a traditional waterstone. They cost more money, but they cut faster, don't require water, are less messy and they never have to be flattened like waterstones.

DMT is a very good brand and comes in many different sizes and grits. I own this one and it makes for a very good general purpose sharpening stone.. It's double sided with coarse and fine sides. Unless you're sharpening knives daily it should last decades, if not the rest of your life.

If you're on a tighter budget I would recommend this traditional waterstone. It's basically the traditional version of the diamond stone I linked. This is the stone I started out with, but I hardly use if anymore after getting my DMT.

u/imonfiyar · 4 pointsr/Cooking

waterstones for sharpening and a honing rod for western knives (guessing that's what you have).

Something cheap but good for value like a King 1k/6k to get you going first.

Once you get better, you can always upgrade to nicer stones like Shapton, Naniwa, Suehiro, etc.

I use Japanese knives so I don't have a honing rod and can't recommend you one.


Gist of it

Soak stone 10 mins

Start 1k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (look up what a burr is)

Start 6k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (polishing)

optional - you can also strop it to make it sharper using newspaper, cardboard, leather

hone the knife (5-10 passes) end of every week after use


There are really good playlists like Korin or JKI but they can get pretty serious, detailed and sometimes overwhelming.

I like to watch Burrfection where it's more casual content.

u/boenli · 4 pointsr/oddlysatisfying
u/whatifimthedovahkiin · 4 pointsr/knifeclub
u/PixParavel · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Fun fact, that specific knife is a collectors item and can be bought new on Amazon for $11,000. Downside is The Verge would still be unable to apply thermal paste properly.

u/Tropicalkings · 4 pointsr/EDH

As stated in other comments a cheap DSLR backpack will work well.

Another option is a part organizer:

This one can hold up to 12 double sleeved EDH decks.

Always be on the lookout, some of the best deckboxes out there are not made for cards but happen to work better than branded crap. I like to use the boxes my cellphone came in to hold whatever deck I take to FNM.

u/Darksol503 · 4 pointsr/XWingTMG

Stanley tool organizer. It literally fits X-Wing items perfectly and can be customized to your needs. I'm buying two more just in case... CHEAP on Amazon :)

u/CreativeRealmsMC · 4 pointsr/Bushcraft

I had been making photo albums but just started a YouTube channel. My friend was nice enough to let me borrow his GoPro and mounts but most of the time I record with my phone (also have another camera but it's a bit broken and can only take pictures). Part of what I'm ordering from amazon is a new monopod/tripod/selfie stick which I'm very much in need of at the moment since my videos are a bit shaky.

Haven't gotten around to do any solo 2 day trips yet (most of the time I'd be with a group and there would be designated campsites to fill up water at) but if I was going out with no means to fill up I'd take anywhere from 4-6 liters of water. The climate here is very hot and there is no such thing as bringing too much water. If there was a water source I could potentially allow myself to bring less since I could boil any water I find.

Amazon list:
-5.11 Rush 72 55L backpack
-Mora Companion (stainless steel)
-Bahco Laplander
-Jetboil 10in frying pan

All together that weighs 7.9 pounds and at some point I'd like to get a sleeping pad and tarp bringing it up to ten pounds (not including food, water, and other supplies which might get me to around 15-20 pounds depending on the duration of my outings).

As for the grill it's just a makeshift one. Four tent pegs and a small grate.

u/arecibo560 · 4 pointsr/knives

I highly recommend them, I have the Leek non-serrated. Best Knife I have ever owned.

u/orangefolders · 4 pointsr/OKBestFace

So baked goods, socks I need to get on Buns' level if at all possible, 20mm or 22mm Nato Watch Straps, Beers, Maybe a new Flashlight pocket knives, kindle books, T-shirts xxl ( i shrink things a lot), Hoodies same size, games(card, board, video)

u/SirRipo · 4 pointsr/EDC

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

  • CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.

  • Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.

  • Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).

  • SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.

  • The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.

  • The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.

  • On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.

    A few notes here

  • You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).

  • Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.

  • The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."

    ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.
u/commyzthatdont · 4 pointsr/EDC

I usually carry the Leatherman Style PS. It's pretty small though, but has pliers, scissors, flathead screwdriver/file, and tweezers. Plus the clip on it can be used as a bottle opener.

u/hydraulx · 4 pointsr/EDC

The Leatherman Style PS is travel friendly and has pretty much everything the dime has except for the blade.

u/filthyscrotum · 4 pointsr/EDC

1 (carried) Keychain

2 (on keychain) House key, Car key, Mailbox key, Office key

3 (on keychain) Leatherman Style PS

4 (on keychain) Streamlight Keymate

5 (on keychain) Data Traveler 16gb

6 (front right pocket) Kershaw Scallion

7 (front left pocket) Ronson Jetlite

8 (back right pocket) Chums Bifold

9 (in wallet) Tool Logic Survival Card

10 (in wallet) True Utility Pen

11 (in wallet) Forever Stamps

12 (left wrist) Timex Expedition Watch

13 (back left pocket) iPhone 4 with Mirrored cover

14 (face or neck) Gucci Glasses

15 (carried) Zojirushi insulated water bottle

u/BadHumanGoodGnome · 4 pointsr/EDC
u/entropeeee · 4 pointsr/onebag

Couldn't find any juice but had the headlamp for when I did early morning drone shots and visiting Herculaneum (looked deeper into caves). I already had it an its small so I threw it in. No knife, TSA approved multi-tool which we used a couple of times mostly for scissors.
Weird Sandals?? Pretty normal for me and used this 95% of the time to walk/hike. Both straps on the back broke pulling the sandals on so Keen gave me credit and buying these guys

u/doubleplusunsigned · 4 pointsr/metalworking

First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.

> It's ok to be brutal.

Alright -

I really hate the music you used.

I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.

Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.

During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.

I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.

From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.

u/Busboy80 · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis
  1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software

  2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.


  3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.

  4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.

  5. Have fun! I love mine!

    Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:

    Micro Cutter
u/AnotherStupidName · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

Micro cutter: CHP-170 Micro Cutter

Xacto knife

99% isopropyl alcohol



Scotchbrite pad

Hex wench set

Painters tape (I only use this for the purge line for PETG)

Metric ruler


u/2capp · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

u/beardjerk · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Ohm's Law

Current = Voltage / Resistance. Probably the single most important thing you need to understand to keep yourself safe. is a very handy site for rebuilding, and it has a simple Ohm's Law calculator. This will allow you to determine the current (amps) and power (watts) at a given resistance and voltage. When determining the current for a build on a mechanical, you always want to use 4.2v for your voltage setting since that will be the voltage of the fully charged cell. Setting your voltage as such and lowering the resistance on the Ohm's Law calcultor, you will see the current increase. You want to keep the current below the max continuous discharge rate for the battery, and just to be safe, I like to keep my amps at least 10%-20% below that max continuous rating. So you can see that with a fully charged battery at 4.2v, and a build with a resistance of 0.21Ω, you would be right at 20A.


If you are mainly looking to sub-ohm, don't bother with 18350 or 18490/500 batteries, and stick with 18650s. The most important part of the battery specs for safe sub-ohm vaping is going to be the max continuous discharge rating for the cell. A few months ago, I would have only suggested Sony VTC4s or VTC5s, due to their 30A continuous discharge rating, but due to price gouging and a rash of fakes due to limited availability I don't think those are going to be your best option. Next best thing at the moment is either the Samsung 25R or the LG HE2. Both are solid 2500mAh batteries with 20A continuous discharge.


The most important part of your gear to prevent your house from burning down, definitely don't skimp on the charger. I have an Efest LUC v4 which works wonderfully, and the Nitecore i-series chargers are also great, and you can't beat the price for the quality.

Ohm Meter

Having an ohm meter is a must have when rebuilding. This is going to tell you what the resistance of your build is once you get it on your RBA. The last thing you want is to vent a battery in a mod you are using, and if you have a short in your build, venting is definitely a possibility. You can just get yourself a cheap multimeter from some place like harbor freight, but I prefer the ohm meters that have the 510 connection. Less hassle, and it gives you a nice solid base for building on your RBA.


There are a number of different wicking materials in use, but the most common is cotton. I started out using organic cotton balls from my local pharmacy, but now I only use japanese cotton pads. The japanese cotton has blown up, mainly because of its form factor (very easy to cut strips to size from a square pad) and excellent wicking ability.


There are also some different types of wire available, but the most used (by far) would have to be Kanthal. I generally suggest picking up a couple different gauges to start. At the very least, I would say grab some 28ga and 26ga. If you are planning to try building below something like 0.4Ω, I would also grab some 24ga.

Wire Snips

Soemthing to cut your wire, whether it is a small pair of wire snips, or even a set of nail clippers will work for most common gauges of Kanthal.

Coil Jig/Mandrel

You are going to need something to wrap your coils on. A lot of people use drill bits since they have standardized sizes and that will help you determine (using something like how many wraps at a given inner diameter will give you the resistance you are looking for. You can also get small coil jigs that come with a set of rods of varying diameters. I prefer to use something like a jump ring mandrel. It has multiple diameters on the one tool to wrap on.

Mechanical Mod

This and the section about RBAs is going to be very subjective. Plenty of mech mods out there function perfectly well, so when it comes to picking your mech, a lot of it will be aesthetics and form. In the end, all the mechanical mod is is a metal tube with a switch at one end and a 510 connector at the other. The two things that I tend to focus on when looking at a mech mod are how well the button functions (nothing more annoying to me than a crunchy button), and will I be able to easily adjust for battery rattle. There may be other feature that you are more concerned with, like does the unit have some sort of locking ring to prevent unintentional firing of the mod. Something to definitely consider if you are going to be carrying the mod in such a way that it could accidentally fire without your knowledge. I guess I will just link some of the mods that I prefer, like the SMPL, Pegasus, Colonial, and Vanilla. And I may as well throw a link in there for a Nemesis, since it is the go-to suggestion for first mech mod, and still a solid mod. Also, keep in mind that most if not all of these mods come in multiple color and/or metal options, including copper, brass, and stainless steel.


So when it comes to rebuildable atomizers, you basically have two options. Either you will be using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) or an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer). Your RDAs have you dripping juice directly onto your coils with relatively little juice in reserve, whereas your RTAs have a tank that is filled, and then juice is wicked from the tank to the coils. As a general rule, RTAs give you the ability to have to fill/drip less often, but tend to be more restrictive on build space and airflow. On the other hand, you will have to repeatedly drip juice onto your build as you vape with an RDA, but will have more options for different builds and be able to provide the necessary airflow for hotter builds. Again, these are just general rules, as specific models of RDAs and RTAs have different features. As far as breaking down the specifics on all the different models of RDA and RTA...yeah, there are just too many to even start. Recently, I have mainly been using a Mephisto v1 clone. I like having the ability to run either dual or single coil, I like the changeable airflow rings, I like the available airflow, the well isn't too small, and it has large post holes and screws. I am also going to throw in a link for the TOBH, since it is the obligatory "first dripper" suggetsion. Since this single item is probably going to do the most to affect your experience, I would suggest just taking some time and looking at what RTAs and RDAs are available, and then check out some reviews of them on YouTube.

u/Robot_Spider · 4 pointsr/fpvracing

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

u/ArmstrongTREX · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)

A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.

A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter

A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool

A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.

A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.

u/fox112 · 4 pointsr/magicTCG

as you can see in the pic it has 2 extra large compartments. If you're at a home depot or something just grab the normal sized compartments from a different box and you can comfortably fit 12 commander decks, it's really sturdy, I'm a big fan.

u/alf666 · 4 pointsr/EDH

For those wondering what he means by "Stanley toolboxes", this is the product he is talking about.

u/tiehunter · 4 pointsr/magicTCG

I have the same thing and got it through amazon. Here's a link.

u/bennypapa · 4 pointsr/chefknives

I'm going to disagree strongly with anyone advising you to use ANY type of rod on this knife. This knife is is very hard. Well, the cutting edge is, the cladding isn't. The core steel is advertised as 63-64 hrc. That's hard enough to chip if you use any type or rod on it.

There are generally 2 types of honing rods. Abrasive and non-abrasive. Non-abrasive rods are meant to be used on softer steels like those found in European knives. The edge can be bent out of line by use and a honing steel rod can be used to straighten it back into line between sharpenings on a stone.

Abrasive rods are a bad idea on this knife (and all knives in general except serrated edges in my opinion) because of their hardness and shape. In order to keep the overall shape of the cutting edge you need a flatter abrasive surface (like a stone) or you could end up with a "hollow" spot in the edge profile. I apologise that i don'e have a picture to illustrate but imagine if you cut something and there is a place on the edge that can't contact the cutting board because it has been ground away too much.

For sharpening get a stone. I'd start with this one

Beautiful knife. Lucky husband. Enjoy

u/slickmamba · 4 pointsr/sharpening

No, its most likely trash. You'll be much better off with a single shapton pro 1000.

copy and paste from another post:

There is a knife sharpening playlist. I recommend watching the theory videos before the practice/demo ones.

You re most likely looking for double bevel sharpening, so skip the single bevel ones for now, unless youre interested.

u/ARM160 · 4 pointsr/EDC

Item List


u/trebde · 4 pointsr/EDC

I have the gerber shard on a bow shackle with one of those kingston usbs, only so the usb has some protection.

For Reference

u/stupiddie · 4 pointsr/EDC
u/brendanvista · 4 pointsr/EDC

Alternate View

I work in the tech industry, but I'm not comfortable going too much further than that.
EDC (on my person):

  • Cell phone (not pictured): Galaxy S4 with extended battery Amazon
  • Watch: Invicta 8926OB Amazon
  • Knives (rotation):
  • Flashlight: Thrunite TN12 (2014 Version) 2016 Version Amazon
  • Wallet: Kenneth Cole, not sure what kind.
  • Gun: S&W Shield 9mm w/ Talon grips
  • Keychain Amazon
    Thingies on keychain:
    • Tile Cell Phone/Key locator Amazon
    • TRUE lighter Amazon
    • Gerber Curve mini tool Amazon
    • Gerber Shard bottle opener (come on, what else is it good for?) Amazon
    • House and car keys

      But wait, there's more! Bonus Closeup Images
u/inzo_barber · 4 pointsr/EDC
u/MrPoundabeer · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I've been rocking my Leatherman Squirt as a daily carry for the past 3-4 years. I use it several times a week, maybe more. I believe they make two versions, one with pliers and one with scissors(?); I'd go with the pliers 99 out of 100 times... I also see they have a 25 year warranty - bonus!

u/Bizzaroworld725 · 4 pointsr/EDC

You could make a monkey's fist with some paracord and slide the key into the fifth pocket of your jeans. I carry a photon light, a leatherman squirt and a gerber shard on some aircraft cable and a carabiner. I just about something on my keychain besides my keys everyday

u/Commanda_Panda · 3 pointsr/magicTCG

Ultimate Guard Boulders for the decks themselves.

Transport them in a Stanley 10 Compartment Professional Organizer. This is what I use to carry around my EDH decks.

u/Rudyralishaz · 3 pointsr/magicTCG

I suggest this to everyone, I've used mine for years and lately a couple of guys at my LGS have jumped on the train too. It's awesome.

u/anonymouzes · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Organized using Stanley 25, Stanley 10, Sterlite 1961, Sterlite 1962 and ziplock bags. In the Sterlites I have all my 2xX's, 1xXs, "slopes" (anything with non-right angles on it) and "inspiration pieces" (unique pieces such as tower spires and ship hulls). In the Stanleys, I keep all other pieces organized as specifically as made sense. There's still some further sorting I can do in those (e.g. all studs are together, not separated by color), but this feels like a huge win.

u/Taramonia · 3 pointsr/chefknives

Seconding the wine bottle gift bag idea, as my first thought would've been something like a large Crown Royal bag ;) I would suggest this as a good starting stone; he can get a lower or higher grit stone at some point if he wants, but this will serve just fine.

u/Sariel007 · 3 pointsr/sharpening

This?. Would you mind giving me a high level explanation of the grits when it comes to sharpening knives or linking me some resources? I am good with the water vs. oil and natural vs synthetic debate and can find how to videos but would like a deeper understanding of the grit thing and beginner vs advanced. Thanks.

u/dkwpqi · 3 pointsr/chefknives

Get a shapton pro 1k, it's a splash stone and that's all you need ATM.

$60 can on Amazon so you still have $20 left for naniwa nagura

Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 by Shapton

u/sweet_story_bro · 3 pointsr/sharpening

As for your next knife purchase, head over to /r/chefknives and fill out the recommendation form. Dalstrong is mediocre. For the price, you can do much better.

Also, as an alternative to a cheap sharpening system, there are very good, regular stones (not part of a system) that can be had for as low as $36 (like the Shapton 1000. It takes a little more practice, but it sounds like you have the knives to practice with. Youtube is quite the teacher. Just another option to consider.

u/kevinlar · 3 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

I prefer waterstones for kitchen knives, and have a pretty extensive stone setup but a single ~1k grit stone will be just fine for most people. If your knives have any significant chipping you might want something coarser, but otherwise a 1k should be fine (given a little patience if they're in bad shape). No real need to go above 1k for most people, I'd recommend This Shapton 1000 or This king 800 grit. The king is a bit softer and will dish faster than the shapton one will. If you're able to flatten it easily this isn't an issue.

In terms of the actual sharpening technique, This is a good starting point for the basic movements, Jon really knows his stuff and if you watch through all the videos in that playlist you'll be set. I personally switch hands when i flip the knife as I find it's a more natural movement. So long as you hit both sides evenly, raise a burr, then remove this burr correctly you'll have a sharp knife.

u/Mandarani · 3 pointsr/chefknives


I got the shapton Kuromaku 1000 (Japanese Shapton pro) and have been very happy with it. It’s also right within your budget.

I also got a large silicon pet mat for $10 to act as my sharpening pond.

u/db33511 · 3 pointsr/chefknives

Not sure what you mean by "sharpeners" but from your 13 - 200 range I'm guessing you're looking at pull through devices that range from a cheap piece of plastic crap with some sort of abrasive "V" in it to the electric powered, better built machine with multiple abrasive "V's" in it.

The pull throughs at either end of the price spectrum are not good for sharpening any sort of quality blade. They grind off too much steel, They only work with symmetrical blades. I would not leave any of my knives in the same room with one.

Suggest you consider a sharpening stone or two. Whet stone sharpening is a bit of a skill but it's quick to become proficient with it. Your budget would support a single mid range grit stone, reach a little and you could pick up a finishing stone as well. I like the Sharpton Pro 1K as a first stone

Learning to sharpen can be a skill that will serve a lifetime.

u/jimmysugi · 3 pointsr/chefknives

I know you said you wanted a Japanese handle but I think you should consider a Misono Molybdenum. It was my first knife and I’m honestly still happy with it.
Its inexpensive, tough, takes a pretty good edge, and has good fit and finish. It won’t take as keen of an edge as the knives you mentioned.. but its easy to sharpen which is great if you’re learning how to.

I own a Ginga too and its pretty amazing but I wouldn’t want it as my sole knife. It’s a really thin blade so its a bit more fragile than the Misono. I personally would rather have a tougher knife if I only had one.

I also really like the Hi-soft cutting board. It’s easy on knives, has some weight and theres very little maintenance. Just don’t put it in the dishwasher.

Misono Molybdenum 240mm ~ $112.50

(Korin is having a 15% off sale on knives right now)

Hi-Soft Cutting Board ~ $48.00

(From Korin. Combine the shipping with the Misono)

Bester 1200 ~ $55

(Leaves a good edge alone)


Shapton Pro 1000 ~ $35

(I like the Bester better but this is a really good deal on Amazon Prime)

Suehiro Rika 5000 ~ $50

(Optional.. nice to have tho)

Atoma 400 ~$60

(For stone flattening. You can buy a cheaper plate if you want)
I know the link says generic.. but this is an Atoma 400. Just make sure you buy the one that is Amazon Prime

I wouldn’t spend all $500 at once. You can always buy a nicer knife later.. and having two knives is convenient anyway.

u/Leg_Mcmuffin · 3 pointsr/Shave_Bazaar

Get a shapton kuromaku 1k. Cheapest and best 1k outside of the chosera and less than half the cost.

Here it is -

If you want to stay with just 2 stones, get a Japanese stone or coticule. You will find small ones for under $40 and large ones upwards of $1000+++

If you have any specific questions, send me a pm. I have hundreds of stones.

u/lil_poopy22 · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Checkout /r/chefknives and /r/sharpening, they have a lot of resources on all the stuff youll eventually need and how to get started learning to sharpen. As far as stone recommendations I would say a good starter spot is the King 1000/6000 or a combination of the Shapton stones if it’s in your budget. Personally I think just the Shapton 1k is a good starting spot and build from there. Here’s the link to the Shapton 1k

u/BarashkaZ · 3 pointsr/chefknives

I'd go for something like this:

u/DE_Goya · 3 pointsr/EDC

I've got a gerber shard, they're cheap as fuck but useful. Use it a lot in the office and is a handy bee opener/screw driver in a pinch.

u/ohnoletsgo · 3 pointsr/rawdenim

I currently have a Gerber Shard and the re purposed the hemmed cuff from my ST-120x's.

The Shard is awesome because it's TSA approved and I'm a frequent flyer.

u/mrsbeeps · 3 pointsr/Gifts

There's a great post in here about manly man gifts. A personalized hatchet looked really great.

All the guys on my list this year are getting yeti tumblers, booze, and dopp kits.

Last year i threw in a few of these shards:

Hope this helps!

u/dinosawrsareawesome · 3 pointsr/photography

I carry a gerber shard, the main reason/use is for tightening tripod plates, even if I have a leatherman with me, the shard is still easier and faster for plates.

I think another small 'add on' tool like that would interest me, something to augment the camera abilities of a multi tool.

u/squawk_vfr · 3 pointsr/EDC

A Gerber Shard for your keyring. Mine comes in super handy, and it's only a couple bucks.

Edit: Added link

u/Jobeanie123 · 3 pointsr/EDC

A bunch of wool socks and a Gerber Shard!.

The shard seems a little strange, but right now I need something else to put on my keyring just to give it something more to grab onto when I pull it out of my pocket! The shard seems like a good solution. If I can get one use out of the little phillips and perhaps the pry bar it'll probably be worth it!

u/kerrcobra · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Showdo · 3 pointsr/knives

I hear the Leatherman Squirt is pretty good.

u/timschmidt · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Gearward · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I'm an obsessive gear nerd, and I actually make and design gear for a living.

For your price range, this is bar none the most useful thing you could get him (assuming he likes to be useful himself.)

u/Chainmail_Danno · 3 pointsr/santashelpers

You have to help us out with some details here. What do you like to do?

When you start carrying a keychain, having a small multitool can come in handy. I've also wanted to add a little flashlight to my lanyard.

u/410_Bacon · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

I carry my Leatherman Squirt PS4 every day. Works for so much stuff.

u/BatteryLicker · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

Kershaw Skyline is an affordable option.

u/pologreen94 · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/skipsmagee · 3 pointsr/knives

Seconded. I just retired my M16 combo tanto because the handle is uncomfortable, boxy, and thick; and the blade angles are weird and very hard to sharpen well. For $35, I recommend the Kershaw Skyline (the same length as the M16, here it is in orange) or Scallion. I haven't had a Tenacious, and it seems large for my tastes, but for Spyderco a Dragonfly ($45) is next on my list.

u/free2game · 3 pointsr/knives

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

u/voraidicon · 3 pointsr/knives

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.

Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.

I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.

Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.

Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

u/LefseBL · 3 pointsr/EDC

Just to throw another idea out there: Kershaw Skyline. It's not spring assisted, but it's bound to be more reliable, and it's right around your price range. Made in America, too.

u/SuperiorRobot · 3 pointsr/guns

Put nothing in the stocking. Only put things in molle attached pockets. Mags, ammo, and a decent knife could easily get you to $150.

I bought this recently and really like it.

u/awesomebeau · 3 pointsr/functionalprint

What size is your whetstone and how did you modify it? I bought a King 1000/6000 stone, this is the one. If our stones are the same size (haha, just realized how that sounded), can you share your modified file?

u/Oneusee · 3 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

This. For sharpening stones, buy a 1k and 6k stone, brand isn't a super big factor. King is apparently pretty good, but I use nawima or something. Edit: These stones.

u/hot_hand_Luke · 3 pointsr/knives

What's a good basic setup for sharpening/maintaining kitchen knives? I've seen a couple recommendations for the king 1000/6000; are there other options I should be aware of?

u/lordpotatopotato · 3 pointsr/india

Does this help?

u/who-really-cares · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I would say the go-to beginner stone that is recommended is the King 1k/6k.

Not the best stone in the world, but it's cheap and does a decent job. If you end up enjoying sharpening you will upgrade before too long, but as a utility this guy does fine.

Sure you can send them off to shun, but then you are without your knives for a few days. And realistically, after a month of use without sharpening, any knife is going to be less than spectacular.

u/Caleo · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Don't bother. 1000/6000 double sided is cheaper on amazon:

...and you won't have to wait a month or more to get it.

u/ThatGuyWhoSaysSame · 3 pointsr/Chefit

Thanks for the response!

I know cheaper knives can last a long time and it isn't necessary to spend so much (especially when you aren't working in a restaurant). It's something I really enjoy and have a strong interest in though! I was looking at wet-stones like this, but if that isn't the right style would love the feedback!

Thank you for the links as well!

EDIT: Formatting error

u/NANEWA · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

The only piece of equipment you need is a dual side wet stone with a medium grit on one side and high grit on the other. Stone sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, but it is an indispensable skill to acquire if you plan on keeping up with knives in general.

Edit: A bit down the line you'll want to invest in a flattening stone or something of the like to help keep your stone from dishing with use.

u/STS986 · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Stones jki or king 1000/6000 double. Like this.

Can’t really get a good knife for 50$. They really start at 80min. But he can improve his existing stock immensely and learn how to care for better knives before purchasing

u/heterodoxia · 3 pointsr/videos

Here ya go. My understanding is that for all intents and purposes, a stone is a stone. A better quality one may be more durable but won't necessarily hone a blade better than a cheap one.

u/0t1sdrugs · 3 pointsr/gifs

I usually use Nano-Oil but on some knives (ones that will be used on food) I just use mineral oil.

Check this and this out, a good progression of grits for less than $100 and they are good stones, not absolute top of the line but certainly useable and serviceable.

u/StolenCamaro · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I have a Suisin 10.5" High-Carbon Steel Gyotou and a 5.9" Petty from the same line. I use a very basic 2-sided King Stone, and it sharpens soooooooo easily. High carbon steel, to be fair, sharpens way easier than stainless. It also holds an edge pretty damn well for how easy it is to get them so sharp!

u/dlazo80 · 3 pointsr/Bushcraft

Shapton stones are awesome but expensive. Check out this brand King Two Sided Sharpening Stone with Base - #1000 & #6000

u/daLuiz · 3 pointsr/ArtefactPorn

It's on amazon.

u/yxcdeb · 3 pointsr/IAmA

Did you check out the one for the massive Swiss army knife?

u/NoirChaos · 3 pointsr/mallninjashit
u/Russell_M_Jimmies · 3 pointsr/java

The assumption that you can't get a job and avoid Hibernate is a self-fulfilling prophecy. I've used--and insisted on--Jdbi at my last two jobs and it did not hurt my prospects in any way.


Let's get specific about the reasons for avoiding Hibernate / JPA:


JPA takes from you both control of, and visibility into, the SQL statements executed by the framework.


It sets in stone (based on annotations) once and for all use cases which secondary queries will be run and which columns will be selected any time a certain type is retrieved from the database--regardless of whether the use case at hand calls for it. This dramatically hurts performance.


It is difficult to predict how it formulates SQL commands based on your annotations, requiring testing and SQL logging just to make sure Hibernate is doing what it should.


JPA is tricky to configure, with myriad corner cases that frequently require extended debug sessions. Fun fact: debugging through Hibernate's internals is hellish. Thought you were going to spend time developing that new feature? Fuck you, first you have to spend hours to days figuring out how to coerce Hibernate to do this thing that would be trivial in plain JDBC.


JPA conditions developers to think in terms of the limited models that JPA supports, blinding them to all the other cool shit DB vendors support. "Well, Postgres has native support support for HSTORE but JPA doesn't support it, so we just added added a separate key/value table off the main table to hold those entries."


But by far, the worst, most egregious design decision was the combination of sessions and lazy loading. Hey, let's take a straightforward database query and obfuscate it behind unintuitive framework logic, because we're smart for you! Let's be super fucking clever and make it so navigating an object graph incurs database operations invisibly--for convenience! You probably didn't need most of that data we loaded, but you're welcome anyway.


Hibernate went too far. They tried to SOLVE ALL THE PROBLEMS instead of just giving us what we needed: a data access layer.


We don't need object-relational mapping! We don't need a session cache. We sure as fuck don't need open-session-in-view. We just needed something to make plain old SQL approachable (more approachable than JDBC, at any rate). Instead we got this:



Java devs need to start embracing SQL for what it is, and stop trying to shoehorn it into an object-oriented paradigm.


JPA is an albatross. Run, do not walk to the exits.

u/csteinbeiser · 3 pointsr/Animemes
u/Alca_Pwn · 3 pointsr/geek
u/Frumious_Snatch · 3 pointsr/teenagers
u/Mr_Quagmire · 3 pointsr/pics

u/Bec-De-Corbin · 3 pointsr/Pathfinder_RPG

Dear lord, have you played either of these? I can't imagine how it must operate, other than feeling like, well, this.

u/annoyingone · 3 pointsr/Survival

Heh heh this guy

u/IronPentacarbonyl · 3 pointsr/EDC

The reviews are the best part.

u/anudeep30 · 3 pointsr/funny
u/getdamonkey · 3 pointsr/lego

I sort by a combination of color and piece using a three tiered system.

Tier 1 - Small Parts Storage
All of a given piece are put into a drawer at this point. As more drawers are needed, I begin to sort into colors. Once I fill 4 drawers, I move to Tier 2

Tier 2 - Stanley Cases
Most of my brick and plates are in these. Each has ten interchangeable trays so you can reorganize to have a case you can take with you for a given project. I mostly use the 10 compartment model but own a couple of the 25 compartment for things like 1x1 tiles that come in a large number of colors. Once one of the large compartments is full, I move to tier 3.

Tier 3 - Shoebox storage
Each of these holds 6.5 qts of brick which is equivalent to one Pick a Brick case from the LEGO store. If one of these gets filled up, I start a second one.

Most of my collection is sorted this way. I do use these for minifigs and plastic drawers for things like bionicle parts.

u/preacher37 · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use these: Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer

If you keep the plastic holder, you can use the yellow boxes to stabilize it. Give me a few and I'll take some pictures.

u/djstefan96 · 3 pointsr/knives

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

u/psychotropicx · 3 pointsr/knives

One of the many Kershaw Chinese made knives, like the Tremor or the Scamp. A Buck Vantage Select. You might find an Ontario Rat 1 for under $25 if you search around.

There are also several Chinese brands that are pretty cheap and very decent quality, you can find on ebay, or

u/eltonnovs · 3 pointsr/knives

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

  • Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.

  • Cold Steel mini recon
    Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.

  • Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.

  • Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.

  • Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism

  • Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.

  • Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.

    And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.

    edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!
u/Kromulent · 3 pointsr/knives

My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.

Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.

u/Buixer · 3 pointsr/EDC

Here are some affordable options.

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black)

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife

JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black

Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery

u/turkeypants · 3 pointsr/chineseknives

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

u/archamedeznutz · 3 pointsr/EDC

Swiss Army Knife

Kershaw method

Kershaw Westin

Ganzo FH-11

Byrd Medowlark 2

Opinel #8

Ontario Rat 1

All of these are going to last longer and perform better than the MTech. In terms of appearance and esthetics, nobody is going to look askance if you pull out a Swiss army knife or an opinel. Flicking your mtech will likely be a different story. You should carry what you enjoy, but understand that conventional wisdom is going to look down on the appearance and, if they know about knives, the MTech brand. If you go with the Mtech, don't trust the lock too much and don't be surprised if the assist mechanism breaks.

u/xbuzzbyx · 3 pointsr/knives

I was thinking something similar.
1 Ontario 8848 RAT
2 Kershaw Chill (A bit slimmer, lighter, and sleeker than the Clash)
3 CRKT Drifter G10

I just bought the Chill, and I love it! At 1.9 oz, it's half the weight of the Clash. The locking system is nice and smooth. I loosened the tension a little so I don't need to flick my wrist, just a quick trigger pull on the tab. So far, nothing I can complain about.

u/macbooklover91 · 3 pointsr/EDC

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

u/MestizoTwins · 3 pointsr/EDC

I just bought a Ontario Rat-1 based on some positive reviews from friends.


24 bucks is not a bad deal. My go to carry are Benchmade Griptilian 550s and want to see how these stack up.

u/fromkentucky · 3 pointsr/knives

I've EDC'd a Spyderco Tenacious for about a year and I love it. If I had to replace it, I would easily consider another Tenacious, or a slightly smaller Persistence.

Part of me really wants a Leek but I'd also like a Kershaw Blur for the assisted opening, and if you can set aside an extra $20, you can spring for the version w/ S30V steel. All of these are within your price range.

u/mexicansamurai · 3 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Blur S30V

Had the blur for years and I love it.

Another option is the S30V Kershaw Camber.

Depends on how you want to deploy. Thumb stud or the rear tang.

u/ben_chapleski · 3 pointsr/knives

The Kershaw Blur with s30v is slightly above that price point. It looks like you may already have one.

u/gritsgear · 3 pointsr/EDC

I have the regular EAB,

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

u/chewychubacca · 3 pointsr/EDC

Wallet $15 - big skinny

knife $10 - Gerber EAB

keychain $7.50 freekey

suspension clip $5 - tec p7 ripoff

Light - I don't have a good one for this yet. Can someone recommend a small AAA light with a power button (vs twist)? I have a twist one and it kept getting turned on in my pocket.

u/HeartofAce · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Aznguy1 · 3 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

u/fergusonwallace · 3 pointsr/knives

Firstly, you are in luck! The specs you listed are all available in one of my ALL TIME favorite knives. The Kershaw Skyline (video) is the finest EDC knife I've ever owned. Extremely light. Blade shape is perfect and thin... hollow ground. The grip is spectacular and you owe it to yourself to buy it. Oh, and the flipper is just perfect. Trust me you won't go wrong here. I keep mine shave sharp and it is simply a blast to own. You get used to the aesthetics. Check the reviews from amazon linked above.

u/ThisTrainHasNoBreaks · 3 pointsr/Portland

Try this. I carry one everyday. Made right here in Tualatin, Oregon. Besides, it's a good tool to have on you anyway.

u/ndog14 · 3 pointsr/CCW

Kershaw Skyline is one of the best knives for the money.

u/grumblegeek · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

  1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.

  2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done

  3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.

  4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.

  5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.

  6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] ( - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.

  7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made

    All of these I would buy again.
u/experimentrx78 · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

Save for the epic ships, I essentially have a very similar number/distribution of ships as you. I use the Plano 5231. One for the rebels and one for the empire. It does a good job of holding all the small ship, cards, and maneuver dials in the bottom. And the top works well for all the small focus/evades/TLs and such on the top. The only problem I have with it is the storage of the larger ships. I can only seem to fit one YT-1300 in for the rebels, and one firespray plus lambda for the empire. Over all for the price I am happy with them, and there is still room for small ships. I just need to figure out something for larger ships

u/frankduxvandamme · 3 pointsr/boardgames

This case made by Plano is outstanding for holding everything Carcassonne. The compartments on top hold all of the tokens and them some with each being able to have their own separate compartments, and the inside compartments hold all of your tiles plus room for labeling and plenty of room for extra stuff as well. A few pieces of paper like your collections rules can also fit inside as well.

u/TomTheGeek · 3 pointsr/gundeals

I use these for Lego, would work well for AR parts.

u/TinyFerret · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

u/rnienke · 3 pointsr/bicycling

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

u/bobroberts7441 · 3 pointsr/fixit

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

u/TheGreatPizano · 3 pointsr/Fixxit

Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.

u/Necoras · 3 pointsr/DIY

A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).

u/troglodyte · 3 pointsr/whitewater

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

u/throwaway29173196 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.

u/TheReal-JoJo103 · 3 pointsr/BBQ

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

u/MattsPeppers · 3 pointsr/HotPeppers

It's this.

I have something similar. I keep mine in paper coin envelopes and have silica gel packets in each drawer to keep moisture down.

u/musinou · 3 pointsr/arduino

I don't know what /u/grizzly_wintergreen had in mind, but I have something more like this:

I would not go for anything open, as it can get dusty. As those are transparent drawers, you can see inside them without opening.

u/ttirado · 3 pointsr/Locksmith

I have used these and they work great. They do have some different configurations for larger drawers and they are mountable. The bins are almost the same size as a standard 50 keyblank box from ilco.


u/NekoOtaku · 3 pointsr/beadsprites

I bought one of these. I got the dividers so each drawer can hold two colors.

u/Tuckertcs · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage
u/cycobiz · 3 pointsr/Trucks

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

u/noicedream · 3 pointsr/synthdiy

22 AWG stranded wire is pretty standard for wiring anything.

i usually buy these, as they're a good price, 2 day shipping w/ prime, and its a nice multi color kit, which helps when case you have to trace the wire back to the board when debugging. plus everyone likes colors:

use shielded wire (with the 'shield grounded') for any audio signal inputs/outputs if you get noise. not 100% necessary, but might be worth it in the end for the sound quality and reducing any noise.

i also recommend you get a real wire stripper. this one is the bees knees:

u/Robdor1 · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

Something like this. Makes stripping so easy that a child could do it.

u/Triskite · 3 pointsr/electricians

thanks for the reply... i have strippers that go down to 6awg, i was just wondering what folks recommend for lower gauge and/or faster speed (like this self-adjusting stripper, but for 4/6/8 gauge)

u/AnotherButtHole · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I'm a Jr. Sysadmin / tech support person where I work and this is what I use. The skeletool is pretty handy just to carry around on a daily basis. The ifixit toolkit has bits that helped me work on all sorts of stuff including Apple products. Hell, I even found a bit to tighten a screw on my office chair. The magnetic bowl is definitely worth it if your company pays for it! :)

Leatherman Skeletool +
ifixit tool kit + Magnet bowl

u/Gator_Stubby · 3 pointsr/Knife_Raffle

My friend this tool can be bought @ amazon for $41 brand new.

I am not sure where you keep getting the prices from! You will need to adjust it down to atleast this price. Ideally a little under.

u/SwiebelKuchen · 3 pointsr/Survival

Really nice multitools they are around $30-40, it's kind of the perfect gift. Try the Leatherman skeletool

u/aje14700 · 3 pointsr/knives

For EDC, consider a Skeletool for your next purchase. Honestly it's one of my most used tools, and I love it. I have the CX version which looks slightly cooler and has slightly better steel, but the normal version is still awesome (aparently they jumped in price on amazon though...).

u/yasec · 3 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

u/Darkcheops · 3 pointsr/EDC

My two most used items I got off amazon.

Kingston Datatraveler: The most solidly built flash drive I've been able to find for the money so far. They have a 3.0 version now but it looks like the key chain is made out of plastic.

Leatherman Skeletool: Good multitool that is versatile without being cumbersome.

u/gtNonja · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I purchased the Leatherman Skeletool for my groomsmen. In retrospect, I'm not sure if they all use them since some of them live out of town, but I bought myself the Leatherman Skeletool CX and carry it daily. I think it makes a great pocketknife replacement since it's small, and having the added tools is very handy. I did have the pliers break on me, but Leatherman replaced the entire unit through their lifetime warranty. Fill out a form and send it in; I didn't have to provide proof of purchase.

If you go the Zippo route, it might be nice to have them engraved with the groomsmen's name and a short note. My wife did something similar for me as part of gift one year.

I think a Leatherman is a good pick, and I'd get the same thing for everyone. A personalized item for each person is nice too (i.e. each person gets something completely different), but that makes the selection process longer. So it depends on how much work you want to put into it.

u/MountainDewFountain · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Wife got me a leatherman Skeletool with a carabiner clip a few years ago. I wear it every single day on my belt loop. Best multi-tool I have ever owned and it's been my go to gitf for secret Santa for years.

u/Mr_Ected · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I'd also carry a normal multi-tool (I carry a Leatherman Skeletool). They do come in handy, especially for pulling out stubborn pokey things that work themselves into your tires. The knife and screwdriver can be handy as well at times.

u/GaynalPleasures · 3 pointsr/uwotm8
u/EatinPussynKickinAss · 3 pointsr/EDC

List of gear:

u/gravi-tea · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

If you want a folder, the Rat by the Ontario Knife Company is definitely a great choice.

Just read some reviews. For $27 you are getting a ridiculously well made knife.

u/jamin101wolf · 3 pointsr/EDC

A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.

u/Snoogliebear · 3 pointsr/Diesel

The leatherman squirt is my vote:
Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier

Or a flashlight like this: Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight

u/SarcasmIsKey · 3 pointsr/EDC

Left to right

Muji Eraser

[Sigg 0.6L water bottle] (

[Muji Gel Pen] (

[Alvin DRAFT-TEC RETRAC 0.3mm] (

[Leatherman Style PS] (


Anker SoundBuds Sport IE 20

[Fisher Space Pen] (

[Leatherman Wave Black] (

[Mee Audio M6 Pro] (

[Random Knife] (

[Corsair Voyager Go 32GB] (

[Kershaw Cryo 1555Ti] (

[Alpine Swiss Slim Wallet] (

[Anker PowerCore 10000 with Quick Charge 3.0] (

[Seiko SNDC31] (

[Lenovo T440s (256GB Samsung 840 EVO, 12GB ram, 1080p touchscreen, i5 4300)]

[Motorola Doid Turbo Ballistic Nylon 32GB] (

u/massacre3000 · 3 pointsr/EDC

For Light Carry:

u/cujo255 · 3 pointsr/EDC

multitool with no blade
style PS

u/pelicularities · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'd try to build this EDC with the assumption that I could keep it for years (if not indefinitely):

Wallet: allett Ultra Slim Sport Wallet - $15

Knife: Opinel No. 6 Carbon - $12

Multitool: Leatherman Style PS - $25

Light: Olight i3s - $15

Pen: Zebra Sarasa Clip - $3

Watch: Timex Weekender - a variant under $30

I EDC a Style PS right now, and have EDCed the Olight i3s and Zebra Sarasa Clip in the past. I own (but have never EDCed) an Opinel No. 8 stainless, and it's excellent, but I wish it were smaller and could sharpen up even more, so No. 6 carbon it is. I've handled allett wallets in stores and trust their usability and quality. The Timex Weekender is the only one on this list that I haven't had direct experience with, but it's the cheapest watch I could find that I'd feel I could keep for a long time.

I would consider any tailstanding AAA light under $15 with a reasonable high and low. I went with the Olight i3s because I've used it, but I'd also take the Lumintop Worm or Thrunite Ti3 if I could get it under $15.

u/UniverseChamp · 3 pointsr/EDC

I couldn't give up my blade, so I settled on one of these.

u/geeyoupee · 3 pointsr/onebag

Leatherman has one without a blade that is TSA approved but very limited in tools. I brought it with me everywhere but Thailand wanted me to check it in so I tossed it.

u/superuser41 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For flush cutters/snippers (don't need two tools really) get either:

u/isolatedvirus · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/Highfro · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

These are my favorite, I’ve gone through like 10 of them and I highly recommend getting more then one pair. You’ll end up using them for everything

u/awwshyuks · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

3 years plus on these.

Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity

u/vinesthatgrow · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/extremesanity · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Buy a half dozen of these and spread them everywhere before you all hurt yourself.

u/_imjosh · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:

hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7
check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

u/blksprk · 3 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

Amazon is your friend.

100' 28g Kanthal $6 (I use 26g on my subtank, but 28 works too. This is just the first one that showed up)

More Japanese cotton than you will know what to do with $8

Angle cutters, not needed but it makes getting a clean cut very easy $5

Precision screw driver set, also not needed but handy for both the fact that they are in fact screw drivers and that you can use the slotted ones for wrap coils with a consistent and known inner diameter. $8 (you can get this for a lot less at Walmart, Lowes, harbor freight... Etc)

So a little over $25 shipped and you will not need kanthal or cotton for a very long time.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_VAPE_PICS · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Lightningvapes is doing 50% all their wires so you should pick up a few.

I suggest 24ga and 26ga kanthal as well as some 26ga ss316L. In my experience, anything higher gauge (which is thinner wire) is not fun to work with and anything lower gauge is too low in resistance. You can get a 50' spool of each for less than $10.

You should also get a pair of wire snips and a few screwdrivers if you don't already have them. Good sizes to get are 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm.

u/HeloRising · 3 pointsr/DicePorn

I'm a huge advocate for dice boxes. Don't get me wrong, I love dice bags, but I'll take a box over a bag for general use any day.

Best place to get them is a thrift store. Comb through and I guarantee you'll stumble across something wonderful. Old jewelry boxes are the best, you can find ones from the 40's and 50's made of solid wood and they're virtually indestructible and most already have felt inlaid in them already.

You can use these for storage and rolling if you get the right one. If the lid comes off, some felt will turn it into a handy dice tray for rolling. You can buy a dice tray if your storage box doesn't allow for it. They're relatively inexpensive and it'll be the best thing you can buy for gaming since dice.

Craft stores will have ready-made boxes that you can stain and sand if you're feeling DIY but I avoid these generally because the woods are a bit softer and the boxes themselves are not very well constructed. On top of that, they can be expensive and you still have to do a lot of the work yourself. Best to go with a Goodwill find; much cheaper and you get a better box out of it in the end.

For general storage, I tend to go for a screw case. They're dirt cheap and keep everything sorted but be sure you get one with wells deep enough for your dice.

I use an open top box lined with felt that I got as a giftbox years back in conjunction with a bag. I have an amazingly soft purple leather pouch that I use to transport the dice I'm going to use for that game then I just roll in the box. Everything goes back into the screw case when I get home and no dice get lost.

...I really need to stop watching Good Eats.

u/wmccluskey · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

> Stanley organizer boxes

Link for the lazy.

I'm actually kicking around an idea for a rack to hold red solo cups. They hold WAY more, are dirt cheap, and are easy to replace.

Think of a shelf with lots of holes cut into it the diameter of the 2/3 line on the solo cup (the beer/ 12oz line).

u/Incursus · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

This is the best I've found. I cut the plastic out and stick it in the bins to hold the ships.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

u/icepyrox · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

Was it something like this??

As for me, I was using what /u/Nybear21 suggested, but have outgrown it for two reasons:

  • Mainly, I insist on using Sir Willibald's Microhangers and Gearboxes, which takes up more room in the tackleboxes than putting everything in there loosely would cause/create
  • I have everything from the game, including epics and stuff and there just isn't quite enough room there.

    I still highly recommend that tacklebox or something that supports the Plano 3700 series of boxes (the 1374 was the gold standard while it was made, to the point that the top reviews on Amazon were all about X-wing).

    As for what I currently use, I bought a bulk of literature mailers (10x10x2 corrugated cardboard) and put those microhangers/gearboxes in there in a stack. The epics are on shelves in display that I carry in their original plastic when I transport them to the store.
u/Sphartacus · 3 pointsr/dice

I have one of these: Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

I took a couple trays out to hold pencils and dry erase markers. The little trays are big enough to hold a dice set or a few minis.

u/J1mBub · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

These work for me:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

u/ChrisNH · 3 pointsr/arduino

I like cases with removable bins, for instance:

We use similar but deeper bins for the kid's legos.

u/jjacq · 3 pointsr/headphones

Can't go wrong with keeping it simple or if you have a lot, then something like this. The latter can be an excuse to fuel an IEM addiction :).

u/keen4e · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Hi. The number of drawers is really dependent on your piece size and variety.

As for categorization, I think I can help! It's definitely not practical to keep each part in its own drawer. Instead most people sort by part (not color!), then decide on classifications as far as what to keep together. You want to keep your categories sufficiently broad, so you can easily know where to find things like plates, arches, bricks, technic pieces, etc but not be so cumbersome that you can't keep up with where things are. Labeling your drawers once you have them is very useful for this as well. As for the specific categories themselves, it really depends on your unique collection but I find this to be a good starting point:


You can branch out from there based on the pieces you have more/less of. The first modification I would recommend is to keep all 1x1 bricks/tiles/plates separate because they just sink to the bottom of a big drawer otherwise and are hard to track down. I have a bunch of tiny bins just for them in a Stanley organizer like this: but the akro mils drawers are also highly recommended here


Hope this helps!

u/serfrock · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

This is an idea I've had, but have not put into practice yet. Buy one of these screw organizers, and use a dry-erase marker to write on the lid over the relevant nuts/bolts/screws. I guess there's a chance that you'll wipe off the labels by mistake, but at least you won't mix them up if you're good about closing it.

u/Sheldonzilla · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

I'm using this currently, works like a charm. Here's a pic in action

I have a decent sized collection, and either stuff a lot of models in here, or less models but pack their cards in too. Check out BBQ for cheaper and more varied alternatives.

I usually use foam to carry models, but X Wing models are sturdy enough to be alright.

u/SwingDancerStrahd · 3 pointsr/Pathfinder_RPG

By paper mini you mean Pathfinder pawns?

If So there are a crap ton of ways people store those.

I personally use [this] ( as it perfectly fits all my pawns. Each case holds enough for 1 bestiary and 1 AP worth of pawns. Here's an [article] (

You can write the names of what is in each box and fix it to the cover in the corresponding spot

u/Donthin · 3 pointsr/dndnext

If you get the Pawns I would suggest getting this storage tray, I have two and the pawns fit perfectly!

Stanley Professional Organizer

u/pixel · 3 pointsr/AFOL

I prefer the "Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer" for small stuff like single blocks, technic parts, etc and the Ikea TROFAST for larger items and items in larger quantities.

u/cyberlink420 · 3 pointsr/Legodimensions

Makes sense; mine are Stanley containers too, and they let you move around the slots as well.

u/Lurkndog · 3 pointsr/Bushcraft

For processing firewood, get a Bahco Laplander folding saw. It's lightweight, durable, works well, and it's only about $24. It's lighter than an axe or hatchet, and much safer to use.

u/swflanglers · 3 pointsr/kayamping

I use this folding saw and a machete. Saw is for wood mostly, machete is for vines/whatever piddly defense it'll give me against raccoons or gators.

I haven't camped in the summer yet, but I prefer hammocks because they stay cooler than tents. With a basic under quilt and top quilt, I was comfortable when it got down to the 40s. A kid might do better with a tent though, my kids move a lot while they're sleeping. Warbonnet Blackbird is what I use, they're actually on sale today(7/4) I believe.

u/korgothwashere · 3 pointsr/bugout

Laplander or a Silky Saw dude.

Also, a little bag like a Maxpedition Rolly Polly would make a great small addition that can expand for some more space in a pinch.

u/OddTheViking · 3 pointsr/Bushcraft

I had assumed you meant this:

I have one, it's awesome.

u/porkchopmike · 3 pointsr/backpacking
u/novel__ · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm going to recommend knives I own. All of these are pretty high-value.

KA-BAR Dozier Folding Hunter

Manual opening. Own one myself, it's a tank... for 20$? Comes in different colors. Very light.

SOG Flash II

Assisted opening, comes out very forcefully. There's a little "wiggle" in the blade, but if you can get passed that... it's excellent. Somewhat light.

Kershaw Leek

Assisted opening, doesn't come out with as much force as the Flash II. Non-threatening, very well-made. The only thing to watch out for is the delicate tip. It's not like it'll break instantly, though. Just don't pry with it... It's great for detail work. Very thin as well. Very light.

u/emarkd · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'm kinda going off-topic here and I hope my comments don't come across as asshole-y, but how exactly are you losing pocket clipped knives? Millions of people carry pocket clipped knives every day and don't lose them. I've been carrying a pocket clipped knife for close to 30 years and only lost one - and it had a loose pocket clip. I knew it had a loose clip and had been putting off tightening it, so it was my fault, not the knife's.

Could I suggest that you're simply carrying crappy knives? Sorry, but I noticed you're shopping in the United Cutlery class of knives, which is really, really bad quality stuff. I'd bet that if you were to simply buy a better knife, a good quality folding pocket-clipped knife, you'd have much better luck with keeping them. There's a thousand such good knives out there, for just about every budget, but for a quick suggestion, how about a Kershaw Leek? I haven't EDC'd a Leek in a long time, but they're fantastic knives that will serve you well and they don't cost a fortune. I've got several of them in different colors, have carried most of them at one time, and never had an issue with the clip.

If, on the other hand, you really want to carry a fixed blade knife, then go for it. Hell I had a cheap boot knife kinda like that in my shit-kicking, combat-boot wearing days back in the late 90's, so who am I to fault you. I have no idea if its legal or not, as I am not a lawyer, so I can't help you there. Just some things to consider...

u/crookedhead · 3 pointsr/mycology

Looks like OP has the Kershaw Chive. So I was mistaken, mine is a little bit longer, the Kershaw Leek. Great knives!

u/halvetyl000 · 3 pointsr/knives

Ah, I see. Kershaw's website has it listed at the full MSRP, but most other vendors sell it at MAP, which is closer to 50 for most versions. Amazon link for example:

u/corvettevan · 3 pointsr/knives

For those that care, I went with a Kershaw 1660 Ken Onion Leek mainly due to its thinness and minimal design.

Thanks for all of your help!

u/tacomanmcjab · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Ignutsk · 3 pointsr/EDC

My EDC consists of:

u/xg220 · 3 pointsr/EDC

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

u/Shippolo · 3 pointsr/EDC

[This (Keshaw select Fire)] ( has easily been the most useful knife I've owned. The blade itself is good, not great, but certainly good enough for everyday tasks. With typical knives I found myself using the blade to do things that I should have just gone and grabbed a screwdriver for and would end up chipping the edge.

However if you just want something with a good blade I'd recommend [Kershaw Leek] (

u/volantemgulo · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'm a fan of the kershaw leek

u/Durzo_Blunts · 3 pointsr/rva

I sincerely wish you good luck, I would want that thing back, too. Worst case scenario, I snagged this (much cheaper) bad boy as an EDC a little while ago. Love the knife, highly recommended if you have to unfortunately purchase a new one.

Kershaw Leek Knife

u/aur0ra145 · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

The Plano 5231 is very popular. Here you can see it in use. Note: I've added 2 Z-95's, 1 Phantom and 1 Defender and it all still fits.

u/oppedj02 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

Sorry, that made me laugh. Not piano! P-L-A-N-O :)

Plano is a brand name. Here's an example from Amazon:

Although the way Fantasy Flight is pumping out expansions for Eldritch Horror these days, a piano box might eventually be necessary!

u/mrdizzah · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

Until your collection grows, one or two of these will serve you well. I use two currently and strap them together using suitcase straps.

u/ltlgrmln · 2 pointsr/electronics

A combination of this and this.

I love the Stanley boxes, because if you've got multiple you can mix the trays around in addition to being able to take them out to keep it organized on the table top. The smallest removable boxes in those fit resistors with the reel tape on them still, so I consider them perfect size. The container store ones are just deep enough to fit a concrete power resistor. You could also mount a ton of them on the wall if you've got the room or a bigger workspace.

u/msolace · 2 pointsr/ModernMagic
there is a larger version too its only 2 more dollars i think Also, wine opener boxes the nice ones, you can find at resale shops without the opener sometimes. And I use a towel for my playmat can wipe up spills, keep your cards unscuffed its great :) Don't be a yes man, be unique, the tacklebox guy at your shop! For the individual decks, I use the magic inserts and the prerelease boxes, you can give them some spirit, like arts and crafts.

u/Splice1138 · 2 pointsr/LegoStorage

Seems like it would work OK for storage, but in actual use it would take up a lot of space, especially if you have a decent number of bricks that necessitate multiple cases.

If you want something more portable than the typical drawers, you might be better off with something like this.

u/Xwingin_it · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Stanley 25-removable compartment organizer. For the price of 1x foam Feldherr bag, I can buy 5 or 6 of these (they go on sale from time to time for $10-$11) and store damn near my entire fleet to include tokens, base, pegs, etc. Big ships and Epic ships may need a deeper Stanley case, the price of which is still comparable with the 25-compartment.

I found foam to be largely unnecessary, unless you plan on throwing your collection down a flight of stairs. I've moved a couple of times and my ships survived undamaged using the Stanley cases.

u/petecas · 2 pointsr/lego and amazing. Drawers/bins that are removable and rearrangeable make it easier to sort out what you want for the current MOC.

When/if you fill up a bin, you can either subdivide further or move some of the Lego to deep storage.

I'm pretty dead set against sorting by color, it's WAY easier to find a red 1x2 in a bin of 1x2s than it is to find it in a bin of red.

u/VoteTedJameson · 2 pointsr/SWlegion

There are some purpose-made storage trays like this: , but they're expensive.
I put my AT-ST in a $1 storage bin from target with some foam cut from an acoustic panel in the bottom to cushion it, and it works fine. I use a tool box for my X-wing and Armada minis and I'm thinking I'll get one for my Legion troopers as well. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowe's for cheap, they're tough and they're always available.

u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

Play the basic starter game from the box a few times... If you and your friends dig it, then consider some accessories and extra ships. (Sticking to the accessories here, I'll let others give tips on the ships, since now just buy 2 of everything).

  • Extra Dice. 1-2 sets of extra dice. - FFG has a bad habit of not providing enough dice. One extra set gives you enough dice to roll for almost any attack. 2 sets of extra dice allow you to keep separate dice pools for each player to move things along quickly. $5-$10 per set.

  • Playmat. You could get 2x of the official FFG 3' x 3' mats. Or a large 3rd party 6' x 3' mat. Alternatively, people get a large piece of black felt for very cheap. Or even a large Yoga Mat.

  • Card Sleeves for protection with frequent play. - Mayday's Armada Kit or Official FFG (See the bottom of the Armada box to know which ones to buy)

  • Storage - I use a couple of these 25 and 10 bin storage compartments, along with binders for the cards.
u/Lokotor · 2 pointsr/Pathfinder_RPG

The Stanley 25 compartment small parts organizer fits the Bestiary boxes almost perfectly so I recommend those. The Amazon
version may also work as it looks like it is identical but I haven't tried it.

u/cupster3006 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I use the same Stanley organizer for my carboard cutouts. It's the best one

u/sir_moleo · 2 pointsr/DarkSoulsTheBoardGame

I use these for all the cards and other bits. The containers are also removable so you can use them as trays while playing. The large and medium size trays fit the sleeved cards perfectly. And the small ones are perfect for tokens/counters/etc.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

The minis pose more of a problem though, and as I won't be travelling with them, my solution is a big curio to keep them all displayed in.

u/crimsonedge7 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use the Stanley 014710H and 014725M boxes, depending on the size of the ship. It's a bit pricier than the individual Plano boxes you can find, but it's sturdy and I haven't found a ship that doesn't fit in one of the two sizes. The compartments are removable and you can mix-and-match them, so they're pretty versatile. They stack nicely, as well.


Some example pics here. Dials and base tokens are stored with the ships unless they don't fit in the same compartment. When that happens they are still in the same box, just a "general" compartment. I even stored the cards in them until all my 2.0 conversions meant I had way too many cards to easily find that way and I switched to binders.


EDIT: For some extra clarification, I have one of each 1.0 ship (plus a second IG-2000 and the Aces packs, etc.) plus Lando's Falcon and a 2.0 core. All of that converted over to 2.0 with the kits fits in 5 of the thinner 25-compartment cases and 2 of the larger 10-compartment ones. Obviously the amount you need will depend on how many ships you have and whether you feel the need to separate them by faction like I do, but it's not a bad storage solution, if I say so myself.

u/Super206 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I keep the models in a cardboard box with pluck-foam inserts, but for everything else I use one of these that was recommended by other folks for X-Wing, here it is in use. The compartment boxes have little feet that slot into divots on the case's base so with the lid closed they're effectively locked in position. There are other types with different compartments and depths as well, you can find them just as easily at any hardware store.

Now all I have to worry about is the pile of baggies that make it look like I'm cutting drugs to make rent.

u/ChipChester · 2 pointsr/livesound

Stanley has a few different versions of these totes:

that are 16.5"+/- wide, 13+ deep. Two available depths. The cups inside stay put if one of their neighbors is missing, and stuff doesn't spill out (surface-mount resistors are a possible exception.)

I think they would fit snugly in a thin-foam-lined rack drawer like this one:

Deeper drawers likely available too.
Putting rackmount slides directly on the case itself might be fruitful, too.

Pillboxes like this: could handle the really tiny stuff, like those surface mount components and MacBook Pro bottom panel screws. Can't beat that vendor's price for a single unit, too...

Look also at fishing tackle boxes, model railroad parts organizers, etc.

(No association with any of the links...)

u/alexisew · 2 pointsr/lego

In case you ever expand your collection and need more boxes: the Stanley small-parts organizers are just about the best thing ever for storing Lego-- they have removable compartments, so you can pull out a bin, look through it, dump it out, whatever. There's a shallow version with small to medium size compartments and a deep version with big compartments, all of them stack together (nice for storage), and the compartments are isolated enough to keep everything separated if the box gets flipped upside down while closed even with the smallest of pieces.

u/keltorak · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use the Stanley organizers for my collection.

The big bases stack easily in the big bins, I'm just getting to the point where I can't fit them all in in 2 bins.

The small bases fit vertically in the small or medium bins. I made separators with the ship name as a label (color-coded for faction) to keep them separate. It's not perfect when you're looking for a specific pilot, but it works nicely.

The dials I haven't found a good solution yet. Now that I'm fully whored up on those deceivingly fun to paint dial covers, I popped out all the dials and I just stack them in the big bins. They're too big to stand up, so it's a real pain. I need to figure something else out.

If only my son and I weren't such fans of always trying new things, the 18 dial covers we now have would mean we could just put the rest of the dials in long term storage with no care as to how hard it is to find what you want!

u/saerax · 2 pointsr/legodnd

I haven't used full set pieces yet, just a few minor accents. I settled on LEGO figures when I started DM'ing as I had a pretty good existing collection, and supplemented it with some ebay purchases - I actually ended up buying a few sets of knock-off LEGO minifigs from China, which ended up being about $8-$10 per set of 8; quite a bit cheaper than molded figures or authentic LEGO. It let me fill in a lot of gaps pretty quickly on being able to represent various creatures/NPCs. I use some compartment organizers to hold everything, works pretty well.

For your games, it looks like you build most of the world with LEGO - do you play exclusively on fixed sets? How do you handle movement?

u/Nerdfacehead · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I bought this case from Amazon and I'm going to get some foam like you have to line in. Fairly cheap and really good for carrying stuff.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer

u/chronsbons · 2 pointsr/Tools

TASTAK's seem like they could be fine, especially since your drill/driver only has a soft case to go with it. Tastak may well be a better solution than that.

As far as other tools though, the TASTAK's seem optimized to hold a large power tool well in the lower compartment and then fasteners and hardware in the top sorting bins. This part is what i would call less than ideal. Plenty of people like these stanley cases for organization of small parts. but having that integrated into the top of the box... i am not sure how i would want to use that.

If i had to pick from the TASTAK line the two storage things that look the most appealing to me are the Deep Box and the Drawers

the bottom like is that anything you pick up is going to need some custom organization solutions. I just got the 13" Milwaukee box and am looking at building some custom organizers today out of 1/2" acrylic and wood for the prototype and later 3D printed ABS. i don't think there is a perfect solution for everyone because everyone has different tools in their box.

u/SkywalterDBZ · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Cases. They're Stanley tool cases and are perfect for all but the big ships, as you can see

Here's a random link to the first google result so you can see the part number and if they're available cheaply where you are.

u/krezmasters · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Since I have prime, I got this off amazon.

Looks to be the same thing, just made by Stanley.

u/mrbiggbrain · 2 pointsr/DnD

Both the links /u/ZoraSage and /u/OneCritWonder posted are excellent options. Very expensive, but worth it.

For something much cheaper try this organizer meant for small items. I got it for some 3.5e stuff and by removing a bunch of the little cups it fits a DnD book, pens, a notepad, tons of dice, and Pathfinder Pawns. Not pretty, but super functional.

u/happygocrazee · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I literally carried a handful of b-wings into the store in the front pocket of a hoodie after having them in my car's cupholder all day.

Then I bought some Stanley's.

u/PFS_Character · 2 pointsr/Pathfinder

I use a couple Stanley organizers (, alphabetized. I keep the bases jumbled up in the original box, and only store the bases that I've painted in the toolboxes (painted bases help me track enemies of the same type, so I don't have a need for tons of bases).

Note that there is a large discrepancy in the numbers of enemies by letter (for example, demons, devils, and dragons all start with "D"), so you will probably have to spread letters across compartments, make sub-categories by letter, and/or put more than one letter in a compartment to save space (for example, "x" and "y" can be easily put together).

I only have a couple bestiaries worth of pawns; you might want something different if you have much more than that. Of course, nothing is stopping you from simply getting a lot of toolboxes like this guy did:

More info here:

u/mornsbarstool · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Assuming you don't have a bunch of pre-sawn logs just hanging around, a folding saw is the answer. I bought a Bahco Laplander a while back and every single time I use it I fall in love with it. I've gathered camp firewood for years, but this just changes the entire game. It's like a goddamned bandsaw, and I'm the motor. It's beyond belief. Get one. Also, it weighs a fraction of what an axe does.

u/Fuckenjames · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I'm not a folding saw guy, but if this is the saw you're talking about I don't see why you'd want to save just $10 with a product you're not familiar with. Doesn't seem like enough of a value over the one you know will be good.

u/lamarkia · 2 pointsr/Survival

I have a Gerber multi-tool Suspension GE22-41471. I like it but it's pretty heavy for its size and, as others have said, you don't need half the tools in the wilderness.

Go Outdoors have a selection. Might be cheaper on Amazon.

I have a folding saw which is light.

You could try a wire saw. I haven't tried one myself.

I find my folding trowel very useful.

Don't get this trowel - it's flimsy

I also have a bushcraft knife. I'm not sure it's legal to carry around (UK) all the time but I think it's ok if you're using it while camping etc. (better check if you do buy a knife).

u/Vanq86 · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

First I'd make sure you both have all the clothing and footwear you need to be comfortable and the things you'd need for an urban day out (pack, water bottle, some snacks, etc.). Nothing ruins a day like an unexpected blister / rain shower that causes a chill / burned hand from a fire.

After that I'd consider basic survival needs and comforts that might be different in the woods. A small survival kit (and the knowledge required to use it), toilet paper, bug spray, gloves to protect your hands from heat and thorns, a tarp (which you already say you have) to escape the sun or rain, etc.. One suggestion I have that I don't see mentioned often is a lightweight foam kneeling pad. You can get them at the dollar stores in the gardening section usually and for the negligible weight and space they're worth having in my opinion. They are great for kneeling on (obviously), which you'll be doing a lot when practicing bushcraft skills like fire making, and they make a huge difference for the backside when sitting on ground / logs / rocks that are hard / wet / dirty.

With comfort and survival covered you can look at the real 'tools' of bushcraft. The most important thing, in my opinion, is a good knife for each of you. Soooo many projects / skills that are considered 'bushcraft' require / are made easier when you have a decent knife. You don't need to spend a lot (a Mora Companion is a great choice for under 10 dollars), just be sure to do your homework before spending money so you don't end up with something that looks cool but isn't practical for your bushcraft needs.

Beyond the knife I won't go into details about the rest of my suggestions but I think you'll find reasoning behind them fairly self-evident. I've been bushcrafting / camping / hunting for the better part of 2 decades now and all items I list below are all ones that I've personally used many, many times and wouldn't recommend if I didn't find them awesome and reliable. If you look into them further I think you'll find most / all are considered the best 'bang for your buck' option in their given class.

Mora Companion fixed blade knife - carbon or stainless doesn't matter, both are great: ~$12-15

Nalgene leak-proof water bottle - The cheaper HDPE bottle is actually better believe it or not: ~$5-8

Bahco Laplander folding saw - Silky saws are worth the upgrade price in my opinion but are definitely just a 'nice to have', considering Bahcos can't be beat for the price / function / reliability: ~$20-25

Sawyer Mini water filter - filters twice as good as the LifeStraw (0.1 vs 0.2 microns), lasts 10 times longer (100k vs 1k gallons), is much more versatile (you can screw the Sawyer onto a 2 litre coke bottle), and costs less to boot: ~$19

Fiskars X7 hatchet - I know you already have one bust I figured I'd mention it. For a bombproof, light weight, made in Finland hatchet it can't be beat for the price: ~$20-25

Tramontina 18" machete - great balance and blade, just sand or wrap the handle in some tape if yours isn't finished perfectly to avoid potential blisters (this is also where good gloves come in) - ~$15-18

u/rayvenbushcraft · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I’d take a good full-tang knife (though a Morakniv is always a good, cheap choice ) and a folding pocket saw (I use the Bahco Laplander ), as most wood needed can be easily processed with the saw and batoned with the knife.

Some sort of fire-starting implement.. ferry rod is an easy choice if you are in an area where you can access quality tinder, and you can always bring some char cloth or other tinder type with you.

u/DevonWeeks · 2 pointsr/knives

If you're looking to do bushcraft tasks, it'd be better for you to get a knife, saw, and a hatchet so you have all the tools you need for manipulating wood and natural cordage. If you're trying to stay under $100, I'd recommend...

Knife - Mora Bushcraft Black

Saw - Bahco Laplander

Axe/Hatchet - Cold Steel Trail Boss

This will bring you in right at 100 dollars I think and give you a great starting set of tools for bush/field-craft.

There are other options in each of these categories that could combine to keep you under 100. I can list some of those, too, if these don't meet your needs. But, this will definitely do any bushcraft task you can think of.

If you do get the Cold Steel Trail Boss, take some time and thin the cheeks a bit and put a bit of a thinner convex edge on it. You'll be shocked at the results. Trust me.

u/All-Consuming-Fire · 2 pointsr/MTB

Those chains work but just barely. One of these will cut it down 10x faster.

u/Sardine_Sandwich · 2 pointsr/Kayaking

I sometimes take a Bahco Laplander with me, I use this saw a lot at home and on camping trips, it's a perfect size for me to carry around in the field or on my canoe or kayak.

u/thelastboyscout007 · 2 pointsr/preppers

Becker BK22 - This knife is a freakin beast. I've batoned 4in thick hardwood logs with this badboy with no problems and it still held its edge. And at 1/4 thick you could pry open a car door with it if needed.

Sawer Mini Water Filter

Mountain House Meals - Lightweight long storage and taste great.

Laplander Folding Saw

u/MrrrrSparrrrkle · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

For about the same weight, I highly recommend the Bacho laplander folding saw.

It has worked much better than any hatchet I have used and is much easier to carry.

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 2 pointsr/EDC

The Bahco Laplander is a badass folding saw and currently $25.

u/firsttimebowyer · 2 pointsr/Survival

I plan on bringing this saw and although that's a neat way of bringing a saw I don't really see why I wouldn't just strap the aluminum handle for the bow saw on my bag if I were going to bring one. The aluminum handle is light strong and takes much less effort to set the saw up. But in a pinch that would be a good backup if the handle somehow broke

u/Robin_Hood-Rat · 2 pointsr/knives

Can't go wrong with an Ontario Rat1. Best to keep your knife and saw separate. Just get a handy folding saw. They are light and so nifty

u/sparkyman215 · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

A good knife. Kershaw stainless steel ones are the best, they aren't cheap when it comes to knives but they last forever (unless you lose it). Carry it in your pocket and make it a habit.
PS: I use a Kershaw 1660

u/slowwburnn · 2 pointsr/knives

For cheap assisted knives, Kershaw is the way to go. You can get an OSO sweet under $20, or a cryo under $25, both of which are popular around here in their price range. If you have a little more to spend, the Leek is a great choice.

u/ethanzh · 2 pointsr/EDC

The Tenacious looks good for the price.

So now I'm down to 3 I would like to choose from,

  • Kershaw Cyro

  • Kershaw Leek

  • and the Spyderco Tenacious

    So I think I might be leaning towards the Leek, except for what you said about the thin steel. Will that be a major issue? The Tenacious looks good, only thing is that it doesn't have to spring loaded opening, which is something I didn't really know I wanted until now. Then there's the Cyro, which has a slightly smaller blade (1/4 of an inch shorter), but it also has the spring loaded system, only thing is it doesn't look as simplistic as the Leek, but I think I can get over that. Which would you recommend of the Cyro and the Leek which I've posted? Because I realize there are different variations of each knife, but if I get either, I will be getting the ones I've linked to. Thanks.
u/OoogaOoogaYoink · 2 pointsr/knives

I'll give you some options here instead of just one choice.

This CRKT is a wonderful tool.

If you'd like another Spyderco you can't go wrong with a Dragonfly or a Centofante III.

If you've never got a Kershaw they're killer knives for the price. The Leek is a great introduction.

Or, you could buy 2 knives with your fifty. Ontario's RAT I and RAT II are some sweet knives.

Depending on your taste. You simply cannot go wrong with any of these knives.

u/7thton · 2 pointsr/knives

For day to day stuff, I think a folding knife is more than enough. Multitools are heavy and I wouldn't want to have to lug it around all day on my belt or in my pocket.

As far as recommendations go, you can buy a very nice folding knife for under 50. A lot of people here are going to recommend Spyderco knives, but keep in mind that they are much bigger than other folders in terms of height. (To be more clear, they are not heavier than other knives or necessarily have a longer or thicker blade or handle, but the blades are very wide and that translates to it taking much more room in your pocket.)

I would reccomend a Buck Nobleman. It is nothing fancy, but it has a nice wide blade, comes sharp, has a sturdy liner lock, and a good clip. You can remove the clip is you want. In my opinion, it is the best knife you can buy for 20 bucks.

I can also recommend the Kershaw Leek (this is an assisted opening knife, so research whether or not that is something you'd like) and the Kershaw Skyline.

If you want to spend a little more on a knife that will likely last you forever, from a company that has great customer service, I can recommend a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian.

u/N3DD3L · 2 pointsr/knives

Or one of my favorites because it's less bulky and can be swiftly opened one hand

Kershaw Leek

u/inertialfall · 2 pointsr/Skookum

Kershaw Leek is my EDC. It's good, sharp, easy to resharpen, and cheap like borsch

It's also spring loaded cam-over with a lock. It's not technically a switchblade so it's even legal in california.

The belt clip is reversible and I always reverse mine and the ones I buy for other people because the knife feels backward or up-side-down in the factory position.

I've had mine for over 10 years and I can't find anything I like better.

u/BalancedEdge · 2 pointsr/knives

All of these knives I'm linking to the amazon price which is much cheaper. The MSRP's are either in the 50-65 range, or the Amazon price is in the 50-65 range and the MSRP is much higher.

Kershaw Leek

CRKT Swindle

Spyderco Cricket

Cold Steel Code 4 Spearpoint

Cold Steel Code 4 Tanto

u/Neuvost · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

You can buy fancy cases, but simple screw/art/tackle boxes are fine too. I've seen people pay hundreds for fancy bags and foam trays, when really, if something broke, it'd be waaay cheaper to just replace it. I have a big multi-section box for all my stuff, and a Star Wars lunchbox I use on the go, but different storage solutions work for different people!

u/Zefirus · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Got a plano 5231. It's nice for all of the tokens and whatnot. Can also fit a larger ship or two if you wanted.

It's this thing.

u/Tyronis · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

When I was bringing more then a couple lists:
Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porsche Red

Nowadays I try to bring only one or two (oaky I can cram like 4 or 5 by stacking) and I use a Feldherr MINI PLUS Case for X-Wing Scum and Villainy, Star Ships and Slave 1

They were on sale for $18 a while back, my guess is they'll have new bags and foam out soon for 2e.

u/heyyouyeahyou12 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I am using this one:

It holds quite a bit. The top section has all the tokens and the bottom has a millennium falcon and a slave one, plus about 20 models. I could probably organize it to fit more though. I really like the all-in-one aspect. A solid choice I think. :)

u/Tervlon · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

The Plano 5231 is where I would start. I have several that I keep mine in (my collection is rather large). The top section will accommodate all the ship tokens, the gameplay tokens and templates & obstacles. The inside will easily fit all that you have along with the dials and damage deck with plenty of room to spare. I am storing complete conversion kit cardboard and a majority of the small ships in the boxes. Adding a bunch of large ships to the collection may present an issue eventually, but you can fit a YT-1300 + another large ship without issues. The Ghost does not fit in the box unfortunately.

Edit: The prices on Amazon for the red plano are not great right now though.

The HDX interlocking series is pretty great, too. The containers lock together making it easy to add to the collection as needed and they are easy to carry. These can accommodate the bigger ships like the Ghost, too. maybe go with this. The price is good, too.


u/hahahahathisguy · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

> Ontario RAT1

to be clear, this knife? i kind of wanted a flipper with the little edge that you push down with your index finger. i've liked using those. does this RAT open by flicking your wrist?

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/Rocket_Puppy · 2 pointsr/EDC

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:

The Ontario Rat I/II

Kershaw Cryo

CRKT Squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

u/DOODLINGwithWORDS · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

i just bought a few ~25 dollar knives and ended up liking the ontario rat 2 the best.

comes highly recommended in /r/knifeclub

u/Burkules · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ontario RAT 1 - great knife with great reviews: full 5 stars on 149 reviews.

I just bought one myself and am very impressed with it. Rock solid with great blade steel (AUS 8) with a Rockwell C hardness around 56.

u/wittlepup · 2 pointsr/knives

Victornox makes pretty dang good knives at a great price. I would also recommend the RAT 1 as a great, incredibly solid knife. It is, however, a rather heavy duty knife, so if you are looking for something a little lighter I'd recommend browsing THIS budget knife list for one you like best.

u/runamoc · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I am a Kershaw fan for sure. However, for that price point, I can make no higher recommendation than the Ontario Rat 1
It has a larger blade of similar if not better quality and is a beast of a deal.

u/zootphen · 2 pointsr/knives

This is a popular "gets the job done" knife.
Very sturdy lil dude.

u/CorrectionCompulsion · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

u/profstophouse · 2 pointsr/Fishing

bump. this guy knows his knives. i kept loosing my knives at airports, so went with a cheaper, but SUPER quality knife, ontario rat:

u/Peoples_Bropublic · 2 pointsr/knives

How about a Kershaw Cryo ($25)?

For a bit more money, there's a Kersahw Blur with S30V, but the blade is a touch too long.

u/HimTiser · 2 pointsr/guns

I never leave home without my Blur, I found it to be the best knife for the money. They are built like tanks, the opening assist is really nice, and the blade shape is ideal for me.

u/Tinyjay · 2 pointsr/knives

First "real" (by real I mean name-branded) knife I purchased: The Kershaw Chill
A bit of a stronger blade "upgrade": The Tenacious by Spyderco.
The next one I plan to buy: Kershaw Blur

I really like Kershaw for quality. Just my $.02 to help give you an idea of what's out there.

edit: formatting

u/conrthomas · 2 pointsr/knives

Just throwing in my opinion, I own a Kershaw Blur S30V. It's an assisted open and the action is extremely smooth. The factory edge is wonderful, and S30V holds an edge like a champ. I would highly recommend it.

u/ubuwalker31 · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

As I am sure you have discovered, there are lots of opinions out there for what constitutes "the best general purpose camping knife".

Quite honestly, almost any type of blade can be used for most camping chores, including a simple razor blade...

But you aren't just looking for a razor are looking for a knife that looks "outdoorsy" or "tactical" that can stand up to harsh treatment that you could maul a bear with if necessary.

So, my advice is to go to an outdoor store that specializes in camping, hunting or fishing (not a walmart). Pick up some of the knives behind the glass. See if they feel good in your hand. Does it seem sturdy to you? Ask yourself if you are willing to carry it all day in your pocket while camping or hiking. Is it sharp? Is it in your price range?

Then, don't buy it. Do some more research on a website like Read what the knife nuts are carrying into the woods with them. Learn that people are obsessed with the actual shape of a blade and the steel that it is made from (stainless vs carbon, powdered super steels vs 440C, plain blade or serrated). Watch videos on durability and cutting.

Then have an epiphany that you don't really just want a camping want an every day carry knife that you can use while camping or at work or where ever.

Then, buy the knife of your dreams on Amazon or a reputable website.

Edit: I EDC a Kershaw Blur Knife with a plain non-serrated S30V Steel blade.

u/JimmyJuice · 2 pointsr/knives

I wouldn't limit myself to just metal handled folders, because most quality knives use metal liners with some sort of plastic scales such as G10 or FRN. They are very strong and give you a nice grip if the texturing is done right.

In that price range, and NOT a plastic handle, check out the Kershaw Blur S30V. It has Aluminum handles with grippy inserts and a sexy stonewashed S30V blade. It is on the larger side of EDC knives, but it is very thin and feels great carrying.

If you want to step outside your love of metal handles, I would recommend the following in that price range; Benchmade Mini-Griptilian(556), or regular Griptilian(551) if you want something bigger. Spyderco Delica FFG, or Endura if you want something bigger.

u/Stealthylols · 2 pointsr/knives

You could look at the Kershaw Blur or the Buck Vantage. The Kershaw is an assisted open which is nice, and the buck is a flipper. Although i will tell you i bought a Benchmade 940 a few weeks ago and I absolutely it.

u/pussifer · 2 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Blur?

The only thing is that the pocket clip locations (there are 2) are only on one side of the knife. Should still be very workable for left-side carry and use, as it has ramped thumbstuds on either side. The Kershaw Speedsafe assisted-opening is really pretty great, and easy to remove if you so desire (as I have done). I have no problem opening or using the knife with either hand. And they're pretty reasonably priced. I have the one I linked, and it's been a great EDC knife. Blade length is ~3.5" of usable edge.

u/orogeny · 2 pointsr/DIY

Check your local laws on knife size. A lot of states and even some municipalities ban blades over 3 inches for carrying around concealed in your jeans pocket.

I sub to /r/knives and yeah, it is a scary part of the hivemind a lot of the time. Baseless brand loyalty and inane comments daily I'm not really sure about the fetish for wrapping knives they have at the moment. I personally carry a Benchmade on my person daily. Its a utility knife and I am not afraid to beat it up. The shape is good for a variety of tasks I encounter on a daily basis, box cutting, rope cutting, cutting fruit, punching through drywall when running cables, opening things, and the handle subs as a nice bottle opener.

Find a knife that you like the blade shape for your general applications and that fits well in your hand. As far as steel goes, you will want stainless for low maintenance. Carbon steels are great but upkeep on a daily carry can get rough. There are many locking technologies but you want to be sure you get a good one as having a folder collapse on your hand is not a fun thought. I personally like a lot that Spyderco offers, as well as Kershaw. Benchmades Axis lock inspires confidence that the blade wont snap out of place. I had to downsize from a Kershaw I was using when my state passed a law banning knives over 3 inches long or with assisted opening. You really cant go wrong with Spyder, benchmade, or Kershaw. They all are built to last and while there are other better/higher priced knives, generally those are not suited to a DIY utility purpose.

A couple of suggestions before I leave...

Kershaw Blur-Good Value

Benchmade Rift-Axis Lock/Tough

Finding your perfect pocket knife can be as hard or as easy as you like. I see no reason you cant go to Gander Mountain/Cabelas and find one that suits you right. If money is no object like you say, try a few knives out. You wont know until you feel it in your hand.

u/SIKQAS · 2 pointsr/knives

I've had my Kershaw Blur for two years now and love it. I carry and use it every single day and it looks almost new. It's $25 more than your budget but it's worth it IMO.

u/GoldenBacon · 2 pointsr/knives

I think the kershaw blur is one of their greatest knives, I love it, it's sturdy and thick. I think it fits and feels great in the hand as well. The only downside is that it is very rust prone. If you want to get a Blur with better steel, you could get the S30V on Amazon.

u/murderbymodem · 2 pointsr/NJGuns

Personally, I avoid carrying a "knife". I always have a Gerber EAB with me. Since it uses replaceable utility blades, it'd be very hard for them to say it isn't appropriate for work. As a bonus you can actually use it to cut cardboard and tape without dulling and getting an expensive knife all nasty.

u/trillionsin · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Gerber Pocket Knife - Exchange A Blade

With Titanium edge blades

I already have this, so I wont ask for any gifting.

It's small/thin, has a strong clip. You can replace the blades very cheaply, or get expensive ones like I posted (Irwin 50 pack for 12.69 Prime is a cheaper higher quantity option)

u/spotter · 2 pointsr/Polska

To chyba tak nie działa. Towary z ograniczoną dystrybucją po prostu nie będą możliwe do zamówienia pod Twój adres. Na przykładzie Amazonu: rzeczy takie jak amerykańskie czasopisma, książki na rynek amerykański i inne przedmioty po prostu nie będą dostępne dla wybranego adresu docelowego, gdyż ich dystrybucja na terenie danego kraju nie jest prowadzona. I tyle.

u/pandorafalters · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/viking977 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Is this the one you want?

u/MadmanWithAHat · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/Demetrius3D · 2 pointsr/IDontWorkHereLady

Gerber EAB is the way to go.

u/cesarsucio · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/Dman222123222 · 2 pointsr/EDC

You might be interested in something like the Gerber EAB or Gerber EAB Lite for that utility blade. Both are pretty nice. Ironically, the EAB is lighter than the EAB Lite.

u/xmaxdamage · 2 pointsr/italy usa le lame dei raschietti e lo porto sempre nella tasca dei jeans, non occupa praticamente spazio. prima giravo con un serramanico ma mi sono reso conto che finivo per non usarlo mai perché spesso serve per fare cose che potrebbero rovinare la lama (non ho sbatti di mettermi a fare l'arrotino).

il victorinox è comodo per molte cose ma è più ingombrante e in caso di aggressione è una delle cose meno utili di cui disporre.

u/Teamster · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I use one of these. Super lightweight, small, and uses replaceable blades. It's hardly the best looking knife out there, and I'm considering getting an Opinel, but the EAB is a simple, decent looking, highly effective utility knife. Certain perks to using a utility knife over a "normal" knife: easy to clean, cheap to replace blades, small profile.

u/McWatt · 2 pointsr/knives

Maybe a Leatherman Micra or a Swiss Army Knife. Or maybe this thing from Gerber.

u/kamspy · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Gerber makes a little folding utility razor holder thingy. It's like $8.

Very rarely when someone asks you for a knife are they actually planning on cutting something. It's usually prying or turning a flat head screw.

It's like at work when someone asks me for a flathead screw driver and they're holding a hammer, I just give them my little screwdriver sized pry bar.

u/pyrowopr · 2 pointsr/EDC

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


u/Virisenox_ · 2 pointsr/EDC

Kershaw and Spyderco are good relatively cheap brands. If it's for EDC, the Kershaw Skyline might be a good fit.

u/Sengura · 2 pointsr/knives

Twitch II is good.

So is the Skyline

But my favorite is still the Tenacious. What an awesome EDC knife that sucker is. The metal may not be the best, but it makes up for it in durability and it's so easy to sharpen. The knife is of excellent quality and for less than 30$. If you want a smaller blade, get the Persistence (I wouldn't, the Tenacious is the perfect size for me).

u/mavriksin · 2 pointsr/knives

I love my Kershaw Skyline. It opens incredibly quickly once you get used to the flipper, holds a good edge, and I have never once lost my grip on the handle. I would recommend this blade to anyone.

u/haidret · 2 pointsr/EDC

From left, clockwise: Moleskine notebook, glasses, 8 gig iTouch, BIC pen, keys with Swiss Tech multi tool minus the light, Timex expedition, Samsung piece-of-crap phone, Kershaw Skyline, picture sleeve from my wallet converted to cash and card holder.

u/mrtiro · 2 pointsr/EDC

Have you looked at the [Kershaw Skyline] ( It seems fit all of you criteria at $35.

u/NickLynch · 2 pointsr/guns

I had a Leek, but lost it. I replaced it with a Camilus Blaze, and was happy, but it was a bit fat. When I lost that one, I picked up a Kershaw Skyline (In December). It's now my favorite knife so far. It's not assisted, but it's very smooth. It's every bit as quick as my Leek and Blaze were. It has G10 handles, which I love, it's still sharp, despite my box cutting abuse for the last few months, and it's super light weight.

u/bly2425 · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

What kind of tasks do you perform with your knife mostly? Budget? If you can be more specific I can give more tailored recommendations, but for now the failsafe answer would be the Chris Reeve Sebenza, but it might be out of your budget range. For an entry level pocket knife that's understated and high quality, the Kershaw Skyline is your best bet.

u/blueriderbacks · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Just to add a few more that fall well under budget and are still awesome.

u/knowhatimsayin · 2 pointsr/EDC

I've been thinking about getting an edc pocket knife. Is the manix 2 really worth the extra 60 compared to something like this kershaw? I'm about to start researching myself, but you seem pretty knowledgeable.

u/Null_Finger · 2 pointsr/Netrunner

What to store things in

I use binders for commonly used cards and cardboard boxes for "bulk" cards (The cards you don't think you will use very often): 5000 capacity box, 800 capacity box

I also hear that these Stanley Organizers are also incredible for storage, as each compartment is the perfect size for a sleeved MTG commander deck (100 cards).

The binder should definitely be sorted. Not only is it more organized that way, you can find the cards you need much faster. The box can be unsorted, though I like to at least keep cards belonging to the same faction together.

This does run into the problem of occasionally not knowing whether a card is in the binder or box, but it has the advantage of giving you quicker access to the cards you most commonly use. I mostly do this because of habits from MTG, where you get tons of useless cards, but Netrunner doesn't give you nearly as many useless cards, so you could make the argument for storing all your cards together instead of differentiating between commonly used cards and bulk.

How to sort cards quickly

Your cards can be in whatever order you want: completely alphabetical, by faction and then by type and then alphabetical, by set, whatever. Your personal preference.

However, when it comes to sorting cards, or anything in general, there are fast ways to sort and slow ways to sort. Anyone who has studied computer science can attest to this. The difference is small when you only have a few cards, but quickly becomes massive as the number of cards grows.

Here are the two sorting algorithms you should know if you want to sort your cards quickly: Quicksort and Merge sort. They are among the fastest algorithms out there, they're easy to understand, and they're practical for sorting cards by hand. I'll explain them in the context of sorting cards below.


Here's how quicksort works for computers: Choose a "pivot" item at random from the unsorted pile. Now, go through everything and divide it into two piles: Those that would come before the pivot, and those that would come after the pivot. Then, sort each pile individually (usually with yet another quicksort). Once the piles are sorted, just combine them and put the pivot in between them, and voila, the pile as a whole is in order.

However, if you're a human, you'll find it more efficient to sort based on certain characteristics of the card that you can quickly identify (such as the card's faction) instead of whether or not the card comes before or after a randomly chosen pivot. In addition, you'll want to separate into multiple piles instead of just 2.

Here's an example: You want your cards sorted by faction and then in alphabetical order. You already sorted you cards by faction, and now, you want to sort your Anarch cards in alphabetical order. The cards you want to sort are in the following order: Wyldside, Demolition run, Deja Vu, Grimoire, Corroder, Medium, Yog.0, Stimhack, Parasite. The first step of quicksort is to divide the cards into piles. When sorting alphabetically, I like to make a pile for cards from A-E, one for F-M, one for N-R, and one last one for S-Z. However, as long as every card in one pile comes before every card in the next pile, it doesn't matter how you make your piles. So, dividing these unsorted cards into piles (according to my preferred sorting scheme), we get the following piles:

{Demolition run, Deja Vu, Corroder}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Wyldside, Stimhack, Yog.0}

Each individual pile is not in order, so we sort each pile individually (I would use another quicksort on these piles if they were bigger) to get:

{Corroder, Deja Vu, Demolition run}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Stimhack, Wyldside, Yog.0}

Then, we just combine the piles and we're good.

Merge sort

Here's how merge sort works for computers: Divide your big pile into 2 separate piles, and then sort those piles individually (Usually with another merge sort). Then, once the 2 piles are sorted, merge the piles into one sorted pile. The merging process is made much easier by the fact that the two piles are already sorted individually.

Here's how the merging process works: Look at the top item of both piles. Whichever one comes first gets added to the bottom of a new combined pile. Repeat until both piles are empty, and voila, your combined pile is sorted in order.

Example: You have the following sorted piles: {Demolition run, Yog.0, Wyldside}, {Corroder, Parasite}. The first elements of our 2 piles are Demolition run and Corroder. Corroder comes first, it becomes our new combined pile. Now, the top item of our 2 piles are Demolition Run and Parasite. Demolition run comes before Parasite, so it gets put at the bottom of our combined pile. The top cards of the piles are: Yog.0, Parasite. Parasite is put at the bottom of the combined pile. The second pile is now empty, so just put the rest of the first pile at the bottom of the combined pile. The combined pile looks like this: {Corroder, Demolition run, Parasite, Yog.0, Wyldside}. It's sorted, yay!

If you're a human, you'll be doing mostly the same thing as the computer. However, instead of having to lift up the combined pile to put a card at the bottom of it, you can instead make the entire combined pile face-down and add cards to the top. When you're done merging, just flip the combined pile upside-down.

Which one?

From experience, quicksort is a lot better if you have an unorganized mess to sort.

However, if you're adding some brand new cards to an already sorted collection, you'll want to use mergesort instead, since your collection is already sorted. Simply sort the new cards, and then merge the pile of new cards and your already sorted collection.

How NOT to sort your cards

Perhaps you currently sort your cards like this: Pull a card out of the unsorted pile, find out where it goes in your pile of sorted cards, then put it there. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

Or, maybe you do this: Go through the unsorted pile, find the item in the pile that goes below every other item in the unsorted pile, put that item at the bottom of the sorted pile. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

If they feel slow, that's because they are. They're mathematically inferior to quicksort and merge sort. The first method is actually OK if you want to just put back a card you took out of your collection, but if you have more than a few cards to add to your collection, merge sort instead.

u/I_Am_Monstrum · 2 pointsr/Pauper

Some adjustable hardware storage boxes can hold decks etc. i.e. This Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer obviously this one is too small but you get the idea. I saw some guy have like 10+ commander decks in something like this

u/half_a_sandwich · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I use one of these:

It has 2 large compartments and 8 small ones.

The small compartments hold an ultra pro deckbox (80) with just a bit of extra room (so that they may hold a larger deckbox, I just haven't tried it). They also hold a sleeved commander deck pretty perfectly.

The large compartments either perfectly fit three Ultrapro 80 deckboxes, or perfectly fits one Ultraguard 100 flip'n'tray (which was pretty cool when I discovered it).

I usually devote 1 compartment to dice and tokens.

It's not going to fit the mat (theoretically you could remove a row of bins from inside to fit it, but the rest would rattle around then). But requiring the mat fit into the same case is really going to limit your options. You could add some velcro loops to the outside to hold it, or just put both the box and the mat together in a bag.

u/Occulus2057 · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

something i recently got was this great for organizing cards or other various things.

u/robotsneedhugs2 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

We settled on these to try

u/Akamesama · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I agree with the durability comment. I've got a couple dragon shield gaming boxes for transporting individual decks, but when I take a set of Commander decks, I use Dex Protection boxes but store them together in a hard exterior case.

u/synapsesynopsis · 2 pointsr/woodworking

frequently bought together area brings up a set of 1000,5000, & 8000 grit kuromaku for $167.12!

u/IIndAmendmentJesus · 2 pointsr/woodworking

So there is a thing that hasn't been made clear, making grips for his gun would require carving chisels and if he is already making them then he already has some stuff. You mentioned a Mortising chisel which is for a completely unrelated task. Does he have carving chisels? Since you are looking at Mortising Chisels, does he already have bench chisles? If he is starting and doesn't have bench planes Narex are a good set to start with, if he was looking at Mortising chisels again Narex is a great choice. Unless Lee Valley is running free shipping buy them from highland woodworking if you are not in Canada.

One thing before you do that you should look to see if he has sharpening stones. If he doesn't get him a 8000 and a 1000, that would be about 100 dollars and it will set him up for at least 10 years worth of use. I'm ignoring coursers stones they can be supplemented with course sand paper for the time being.

u/p1nkfl0yd1an · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Cool, thanks! Seems like the stuff labeled Shapton Pro specifically has been discontinued due to some change in logistics with distributors. Is this the current equivalent?

u/SmarterHome · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Fibrox 8” chef knife:

Shapton 1k Sharpening Stone: Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone:

Lapping stone (to flatten your whetstone after it needs leveling from won’t need this right now and can make do without):
Atoma Diamond Sharpener Medium -...

Here’s the utility knife version of the larger knife, one of my personal favorites, same thing but 5” instead of 8” :

The fibrox has relatively soft steel compared to most Japanese styles so it is a more forgiving blade and won’t chip. This also means you can use a honing rod between uses to maintain its edge and not have to sharpen as often.

u/HomeAwayFromHone · 2 pointsr/chefknives

I don't think a $30 knife would be a significant upgrade once you've sharpened yours. And learning to hone your knives will serve you well no matter what you get in the end. There are lots of devices you can get with less of a learning curve, but for the ultimate flexibility it's worth the time to learn how to use a waterstone as it's inexpensive compared to sharpening systems that can come close in quality and takes off less metal (and thus helps your knives last longer) + does a better job compared to the usual pull-through thingies you see.


I'd suggest 1000 grit to start as enough to help you maintain your knife for quite a while. This Shapton is $40 but worth the extra $10 over the commonly recommended King (and other cheaper whetstones) becauase:

  • you don't have to soak it
  • it cuts faster so it'll be less frustrating (though it'll still take you a while initially because your knife is so dull)
  • it takes longer to get "dished" (low in the middle) and need flattening with eg. some wetdry sandpaper on a piece of glass or other reliably flat surface. Which also means it'll last much longer.


    It'll let you keep your knife sharp for years. Probably decades. So worth getting a good one 'cause you're stuck with it a long time. Now you can make it sharper with more stones at higher grits, or sharpen faster with some at lower, but ultimately taking it really high isn't worth it unless you have a harder steel---the edge will wear out rapidly and you'll just need to sharpen it again. If you want, you can make a $1 knife just ridiculously sharp, but it won't stay that way:
u/Skalla_Resco · 2 pointsr/chefknives

King Deluxe 1K comes in at $22, and for a knife like either of the ones I suggested will be all you really need. If you can save more, the Shapton Ha No Kuromaku is a common recommendation.


Also notice you asked in another comment about the difference between certain likes of knives. Your wording was a bit odd but I assume you are asking about the difference between the forged and the stamped lines? I can't speak about the Henkels knives, but Wusthof uses fewer steps when heat treating their stamped knives. This leaves them at around 56HRC instead of the 58HRC that their forged knives are hardened to. For a $35-$40 knife this isn't all that bad, but if you were looking at the Wusthof Gourmet line it's kind of silly.


Edit: Knife hardness is actually a really complicated subject. There are far to many variables for me to explain here (partly because I'm not the most knowledgeable about all of them) but try not to get to caught up in it just yet. Here are three categories for you: Really hard knives (Japanese mostly), not so hard knives (European mostly), junk that looks like knives/costs more than makes sense (things that put most of the budget into marketing or aesthetics)

u/sphincter_licker · 2 pointsr/Cooking

It will work but it is very coarse. It will sharpen your knife but it will remove a lot of metal. The knife's edge will also be quite unrefined and so you will probably want to buy a higher grit stone as well. I would recommend this medium grit stone If you only have western knives you don't need anything more. Also ignore the guy telling you to watch Burrfection videos, they're terrible. If you want a video guide on how to sharpen your knife Japanese Knife Imports has a really good series of videos on youtube

u/hypnosmurf · 2 pointsr/handtools

All the crappy farm tables and diy projects on r/woodworking a your post gets removed, wtf.

I have a rikon half speed 1850 rpm 8" grinder with a 80 grit CBN cubic boron nitride wheel and a veritas tool rest. Shapton ceramic 320, 1000, 5000, 12000 stones. A 36"x6" 3 cm thick piece of granite and use adhesive backed sandpaper rolls. I wax the granite to allow the paper to come off the granite easily.


cbn wheel

tool rest


320 g

1000 g

5000 g


sand paper

u/brigadierfrog · 2 pointsr/handtools

I actually don't really care of the finer dmt diamond stones or the ez lap stones. I gave my ezlaps to a friend and bought the combo dmts.

I use the course on the duo sharp course/extra course dmt

And a 1000 grit shapton

Finally a strop with the green compound

Blade is razer sharp in < 30s if there's no major nicks in the blade. Major nicks mean going to the extra course and grinding it out for a few minutes first.

Every other system I tried just didn't work as well or as fast. The shapton just seems so much faster than the finer diamond stones.

u/j8945 · 2 pointsr/Cooking

The one you linked is optimized for harder knives than you probably own. It will work on softer steels, but a 1000 grit shapton is probably the better choice for most knives.

The 1k/6k king stone people are suggesting is pretty mediocre, if you can afford better skip it. You don't need 6k on most knives

u/effonepointfour · 2 pointsr/EDC

Generic red handkerchief

Laut iPhone 6s case

Zenni Optical glasses

Petzl Am'D spinball carabiner (old school and hard to find these days, found it here)

Gerber Shard

USB thumb drive

Captain Black little cigars

Dad's Mont Blanc Meisterstuck fountain pen from the 80s (like this one)

Generic money clip with Egyptian Pounds

Groomsman gift monogrammed Zippo Armor

Fenix e05

CRKT Heiho

Chap Stick

Field Notes

u/Slayerrrrrrrr · 2 pointsr/EDC my go to pry tool / bottle opener in addition to carrying my wave / a small opinel.

u/tbass789 · 2 pointsr/EDC

let's try this out:


timbuk 2 aviator


imperial motion beanie

[casio tough solar watch] (

leatherman squirt ps4

boker urban trapper

spyder co dragon fly

esee 6


book (hundred years of solitude)

dat burts bees hand salve goodness

santa cruz shredder grinder


gadget for the pots

[goal zero flip 20 charger] (

keys (shard, usb drive)

basic med kit

rando pen

u/Rob0tron1367 · 2 pointsr/EDC

SZCO Supplies Kubaton Folding Knife, Orange

Samsung Galaxy S8 Case, Zizo [Bolt Series] w/ [Galaxy S8 Screen Protector] Kickstand [12 ft. Military Grade Drop Tested] Holster Belt Clip - Galaxy S8

TopQPS 2 Leaf Brass Fidget Spinner-Hand Spinner Toy-Stress Reducer EDC Focus Toy Relieves ADHD Anxiety and Boredom High Speed Spin Time of Up to 5 Minutes!! (Black)

OneTigris 4pcs Heavy Duty Stainless Cable Keyring EDC Keychain (4)

Smith & Wesson Military & Police SWPENMPBK Tactical Pen

Minimalist Wallet & Credit Card Holder Men with Slim Design by Raw (Black)

Gerber Shard Keychain Tool [22-01769]

u/WrathfulDeath · 2 pointsr/EDC

I basically looked for something small that i won't notice in my pocket. I chose the Gerber Artifact over the Shard because I liked the extra blade on the Artifact.

u/definitelynotaspy · 2 pointsr/EDC

And here's one for $5

and $7

and $10

Atwood tools are a collector's item. No different from buying an expensive stamp or an expensive coin or whatever.

So I don't get what your point is. People can only spend money on things that are 100% useful? That's stupid.

Then there's the whole "it's not just a keychain" argument, but you've clearly made up your (stupid) mind on that one so I won't even bother.

edit: nevermind, just looked at you're profile and you're just an idiot troll, so don't bother replying.

u/--blue · 2 pointsr/EDC

Electrical Engineering Grad Student Carry:

u/vinnard · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I love my shard

u/C41n · 2 pointsr/EDC

Gerber Shard

Simple, cheap and strong. $8

Gerber 7-in-1 Shard Keychain Solid State Tool

u/Max_01 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Please not this is not finalised and is also my "in an ideal world EDC", so probably won't end up happening haha. Also, these are just lots of things I am considering I haven't chosen my final setup yet, so I won't end up buying all of this... Let me know what you think :)

So here:
Keyring with either this or some of these

Then, for tools:
Gerber Shard AND/OR TrueUtility KeyTool
NomadKey Charger OR NATIVE UNION Keyring Charger
Olight Torch OR TrueUtility Nanolite
Keychain Duct Tape Roll - I might machine my own on my lathe though, still working it out.
PortableCharger - Not necessarily this one but I might get one...
*Tritium Glow Keyring Tool

u/lawanddisorder · 2 pointsr/onebag

I fly domestically twice a week. This is the only multitool I feel completely confident I will be able to get past security.

Sorry, but them's the breaks.

u/Lazerr · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Personally, as a nurse myself, I don't carry a knife while at the hospital, but instead trauma shears and maybe a pry bar like a Gerber Shard. I haven't run into a situation yet that the shears or the pry bar haven't able to do and it isn't as intimidating to patients or visitors.

However if you do need a small knife, just like everyone else suggests, the Dragonfly 2 is exceptional.

I have the ZDP-189 version of the Dragonfly and it is perfect for EDC.

If you looking for an even smaller folder check out the Manbug which also does come in a [ZDP-189 variant]
( Just be aware that these do not come with pocket clip (I think).

u/aroundyou · 2 pointsr/EDC

Wierd, well here it is again:

Left pocket:

u/unproductive_now · 2 pointsr/drunk

Yup, the Gerber Shard, never leave home without it!

u/malecky · 2 pointsr/EDC

Gerber Shard is a convenient little pry-tool for a bargain. It's worth the price just to try it out. Bottle opener, pry bar, and Philips-head screwdriver all in one make it worth the space on my keychain.

For a folder, you won't go wrong with either a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian or a Spyderco Delica. And at the cheaper end, there's the popular Spyderco Tenacious, but I am personally not a fan. Just don't buy anything with partial serrations, and do learn how to sharpen your blade.

Happy trails.

u/JackleBee · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The Gerber Shard is amazingly tough and I find a use for it almost every day.

It isn't a project tool (ie you aren't going to want to build a shed with it) but it is incredibly handy. I'm one of those guys that gets annoyed with loose screws and I always whip out my keys and use the Shard to fix it.

A use that isn't listed is that the fork in the pry bar happens to be really useful for cutting rouge threads off clothing.

My most useful application of the Shard is (sadly) opening Amazon packages. It just annihilates the Amazon packing tape.

u/mtbfreak · 2 pointsr/EDC

either a gerber shard($7) or a klarus miX6 Ti ($47)

the klarus is very bright for a keychain light, most other ones are around 30 lumens, the klarus is 85 lumens.

u/temporarypassword · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Gerber Shard. Bottle Opener, Prybar, Scredriver. Very useful tool.

u/DieRunning · 2 pointsr/EDC

Several people have suggested the Gerber Shard, but I would suggest also looking at the Artifact. It's the Shard with a tiny blade. It's perfect for opening packages.

u/Yolocopter · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Birthday!! Sushi makes me happy...but you know what makes me even happier?? Seeing my new puppy befriend a cat! cutest thing ever<3

I would love this for my keychain (: ^^

u/LIV3N · 2 pointsr/EDC
  • Casio G Shock GA300 w/ Paracord Band - Here

  • Charcoal Lamy Safari w/ Fine Nib - Here

  • Royce Leather Money Clip Wallet - Here

  • Nite-Ize Ahhhhh S-Biner and Exotac Freekeys - Here and Here

  • Gerber Shard - Here

  • Patriot Rage 32GB Flash Drive - Here

  • Keys

  • iPhone 5 w/ Switcheasy Tones case - Here

  • Fenix PD32 Ultimate Edition - Here

  • CRKT Hissatsu Folder - Here

    When not at school, I also carry a Gen 4 Glock 23 in a White Hat Holsters Maxtuck.
u/jredmond · 2 pointsr/gaybros

The best multitool is the one he'd use all the time. I've been a fan of the Gerber Shard for a little while now, but he may prefer something with more components.

I've also heard good things about the FreeKey System. It made things too bulky for my tastes, but I'm also not exactly their target audience. (I carry two keys daily - one for my place, one for my mailbox - plus an RFID keyfob for my office and a barcode keyfob for my gym.)

u/nostrebhtuca · 2 pointsr/EDC

Been here lurking for a while and finally decided to post my EDC. Since there's been some discussion lately as to where people carry their EDC that is how my list below is broken down. Let me know if you have any additional questions.


  • Seahawks Superbowl Champions Hat


  • Seahawks lanyard with work ID, keycard, desk keys

    Left Wrist

  • Suunto Vector in Military Foliage Green

    Front Left Pocket

  • EZGO Slim
  • KOBALT Multitool
  • HTC One with White Otter Box Commuter Case
  • Olight S15 Baton

    Front Right Pocket

  • Carabiner with 4x Nite Ize S-Biners Size 0, Gerber Shard and KeySmart Standard Size
  • Gerber Impromptu
  • Kershaw Cryo 2

    Back Left Pocket or In-Hand

  • Rite in the Rain Notebook
  • Rite in the Rain Notebook Cover

    For those interested in the EZGO and KeySmart my opinions are as follows.

    I like the EZGOs form-factor, but after owning it for a while it doesn't 'stretch' at all for what's in there. I have two credit cards, ID, insurance and a punch card in mine and it's like pulling teeth to get anything out of it. Also, since it's made to fit cards, anything bigger than that can't be accommodated. As a result I have my CPL, vehicle insurance and KOBALT tool rubber-banded to the thing. I've been eyeing the Flipside 3X as a replacement, but their shipping is around $7 which is over 10% the cost of the wallet... hence my apprehension in buying one.

    As for the KeySmart, I've had it a couple of days and so far I dig it but with a couple of caveats. They include two keyblanks for Schlage-style keys. I took one of them to Lowe's to have it cut and there was an issue with the blank, as a result their machine could not provide an accurate copy. I purchased a key from Lowe's and they made it without issue. Not sure what kind of weird science is up with the blanks they included, but I would be leery of buying their 'lightweight' and colored blanks as you may have similar results. My second issue may be somewhat nitpicky, but it's next to impossible to open the door with one hand anymore. Hands full of groceries or mail? Well, you better plan ahead on getting your key flipped out prior to getting to the door, other wise you'll be settin' that shit down.

    Would I buy the EZGO Slim again? No. Would I buy the KeySmart again? Yes.
u/xanxer · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon $3.85 (Cheapest Amazon offered item)

u/UpvoteIfYouDare · 2 pointsr/Drama
  1. Your keys should not take up a whole goddam pocket.

    B) Leatherman Squirt PS4, motherfucker (or the Leatherman Style PS if you fly often like me)

    Slim wallet and keys w/ multitool in left pocket, cellphone in right pocket. Accomplishes the same thing without looking like a NEET.
u/fathergoat_adventure · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

At first glance...

Check out this NatureHike sleeping bag. 24oz's and is great for summer camping. It's good down to maybe 50-55 degrees, but will cut 1.5lb from your pack during the warmer months.

Leatherman and a folding knife? Why? Check out a leatherman squirt at 1.9 oz. I've got one and I love it. This would remove nearly 12oz.

That hammock is heavy. I DIY'd one for $35 and it only weighs 7.5oz. Or, pick up a dutch hammock for 7.3oz (though, this is a little more expensive at $42). This would save another 12oz.

These three would save 48oz or a full 3 lbs!

u/Yoshi9031 · 2 pointsr/EDC

As much as I hate to say it get a multi-tool and do it before move in day. If you have a screwdriver, small knife, and a bottle opener the very first week you will meet more girls than you would believe.

Take it everywhere you can class/party/library. I would go for the Leatherman 10/10 times.

I'd go blue will be a lot less "scary" to the ladies.

u/TheEyepatchCat · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/forceofrabbit · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This watch is a fun (for eight year olds), practical, and very affordable Christmas present. This costs more but looks pretty slick and is automatically set to atomic clocks via radio, which is pretty damn cool when you're eight.

This Leatherman is a little pricey for what it is but little boys love multi-tools, Leathermans are great multi-tools, and it comes with a pointless knife (as in, there's no sharp tip) that you install yourself, in case you don't trust your child with knives (I may or may not have a scar from using my Leatherman Micra in a really stupid way when I was 10) or your kid will definitely take it everywhere, including their school which has a zero-tolerance/thought policy on pointy objects. (If you have no problems with knives, the Squirt would be my first choice for a mini-multitool.)

This book is pricey for a single book but I had the old version as a kid and it's still one of my all time favorite books. Highly recommend, for a kid interested in technology.

u/LenoxAsa · 2 pointsr/EDC

Here's a few I've seen

Or, you can just buy all the things you would want on Amazon, it'll come in 1 or 2 boxes. Here's a few choices to put together a "kit"

This or this for flashlight.

This This, or, This For a multitool depending on the size you want.

This or This for knife (Note: I am not a knife person, I have a Squid and I like it and I've heard good things about the Kershaw Chill)

Exotac FreeKey System

u/Legorobotdude · 2 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman Squirt: $32.95

Sleekish wallet: $17.99

Thats all I really need, but I usually keep a larger knife or multitool on me as well

EvoGrip 18: $29.99

Wingman: $29.99

Edit: You could also grab a Skeletool or Wave off Ebay for ~$35 like I recently did

u/ciridan · 2 pointsr/knives

I can't speak to the quality of the Ontario, but I made the switch to the Skyline from a SOG Flash II and the reduction in weight was great. I have the base Skyline in 14c28N and it's a workhorse for the size.

The flipper by itself is enough to warrant buying one.

u/teraquendya · 2 pointsr/knives

I got a Kershaw Skyline. Great knife. Opens with index finger too. Super light, very good grip and an excellent blade.

u/yertle_the_squirtle · 2 pointsr/knives

Have you ever tried flippers? The Kershaw Skyline
can be had for around 40 bucks and also has the incredible attention to detail find on the usa made Kershaws.

It's not assisted but it'll open just as easily with one finger and because there's no spring to push back it's also easier to close one handed.

u/ActualRealAccount · 2 pointsr/backpacking

I bicycle tour, but it is almost the same.

Kershaw Skyline awesome little knife for a great price!

u/hughmungus2016 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Kershaw Skyline i love it. Used it before i switched to Benchmade

u/ThatFatKidVince · 2 pointsr/offmychest

Same here, I carry my Kershaw Skyline with me wherever I go and it comes in handy at almost every day

u/Ltkeklulz · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Also, Kershaw Skyline for ~$40. It's my current EDC

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Look at the bigger picture.

Do you also have a big enough end-grain cutting board in good condition? Cutting on a crap surface will more quickly dull the blade, no matter the quality or properties of the knife.

Do you have a sharpening setup? When you're looking at very hard knives (HRC60+) those steel honing rods won't be nearly as effective. Look into sharpening stones, not motorized or "pull through" sharpeners. The King 1000/6000 for around $30 is a popular choice. There are 100's of videos on youtube to learn how to use it if you're unfamiliar.

Where are you going to store this knife? Do you have a block, magnetic strip, or does it need a case/sheath if you're putting it in a drawer?

u/ozythemandias · 2 pointsr/flashlight

What do you think of this? It's only a little more than the stones you suggested, it's finer and free 2 day shipping (aliexpress wants $6 for shipping). I'd still get the pastes you linked.

I already one this set

u/Dutchie3719 · 2 pointsr/KitchenKnives

Gyuto / Chef's Knife (210mm-270mm)

Splurge - Gessin Ginga - Japanese Knife Imports

Wa Handle - Gessin Uraku - Japanese Knife Imports

Western Handles (Asymetric) - Fujiwara

Western Handle (Carbon Steel) Hiromoto AS

Western Handles - CarboNext

Petty / Utility Knife (140-210mm)

Wa Handle - Zakuri

Western Handle (Stainless) - Tojiro DP

Western Handle (Single Bevel Carbon) - Misono Swedish

Tiny Petty Wa-Handle - Masakage

Other Knives / Fun Stuff

Chinese Cleaver (Veggies) -

Take a look at some Suji slicers as well

Stones / Hones
King 1000/6000 combo stone

u/test18258 · 2 pointsr/knives

This will do everything you need from sharpening to repair work, also will never need flattening and has a 10 year warrenty

If your looking for something a little cheaper this works great

Alternatively agian you could also get replacement stones for the edge pro knife sharpening system they are going to be even cheaper and still work very well. BUT They are small 1 inch by 6 inches or about 2.5 x 15cm in non freedom units

u/IDontWatchTheNews · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Of course man! This is a very helpful sub, so keep coming back for help if you need on your knife journey whether it be sharpening or other suggestions.

And if you have the want, and know you’re gonna get something in the future anyways, there’s nothing wrong with grabbing a new one! You’d definitely have every right lol... Just imo proper care comes first. You don’t want to sharpen it yourself before you know how because you don’t want to scuff or scratch it, but at the same time it’s pretty much impossible to ruin a knife beyond repair...

As for whetstones, you have a couple options. The King 1k/6k is probably one of the most popular and recommended, but I would recommend spending a bit more and going with the Imanishi combo 1k/6k. I think it’s a much better stone and I can more comfortably sharpen any of my knives, whether it be my cheap Tojiro DP, “hard to sharpen” Misono UX10, or some carbon knives. People have said the King is “slow and sloppy” and doesn’t work as well on higher end steels. Never used one, but I love my Imanishi. You should be able to sharpen anything to arm-hair-shaving sharpness with that.
You can also guy with a solo 1k, as 1,000 grit is really all you need to keep your knives sharp... This would obviously open a lot more doors as well. I love my splash and go Shapton pro, very good stone that you would have good use for when you upgraded and got better with other stones. Instead of listing off a bunch of 1k stones, I’ll leave it with just the one and you can let me know if you have other questions. I’d suggest going with the combo still.

u/Reachmonkey · 2 pointsr/knives

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

u/shillelaghslaw · 2 pointsr/sharpening

An inexpensive stone or two will be worth a shot. There is a lot of evidence that shows its not about the stone but the technique. Without knowing what the local shop by you sells, or the current condition of knives you are using, I typically recommend 3000 and 6000 for a two stone set. That is enough to set a bevel (with a lot of time and energy) and enough to polish most knives. Throw a 1000 grit stone and you would be set.

That being said, you can get more consistently good results easier with higher quality stones. I would recommend the combo king stone. They are around $25 and hit the mark in terms of quality and price. A lot of experienced sharpeners recommend king, Murry Carter being the biggest proponent. With whatever stone you get, remember, it's about angle and pressure. Keep both consistent and proper for the tool and steel you are using.

p.s. you don't 'need' any accessories. but like every hobby, people love them.

edit: the ps

u/7SigmaEvent · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Congrats on getting a new knife! Regarding sharpening it, it depends on your budget mostly among some other factors.

At the entry level, is a classic advisement. Very affordable at $25, and great to practice technique with (use less fancy knives the first few times!).

Moving up a little bit, a 1000/6000 stone should still work fine, and i'd consider the Cerax or Imanishi and These are $55-65.

From one of those stones, i'd expand up and down a little bit, if you want to reshape or fix gouges, grab the lower grit stone first, if you want to further polish, grab the high grit. Take a look in the Shapton Kuromaku series, which for a Gyuto they recommend the 220 Moss, 1500 Blue and 12000 Yellow. they can all be bought via this Amazon page: The full set of the 3 would be a bit under $150 before tax/shipping.

At the high end, is Shapton Glass, Choosera or Naniwa stones but i'd advise against spending $300+ on a set of stones right now if you don't have much experience.

u/Nitrogen_triiodide · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Would something like this King whetstone be good enough to get shaving sharp? I was thinking about getting it but then I read reviews for the sharpmaker and now I'm conflicted.

u/stabbitystyle · 2 pointsr/TriCitiesWA
u/coletain · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Typically you store planes either on their side or just make a little shelf with a lip at the back so that when you set it down the back of the plane is raised up a bit keeping the blade from contacting the shelf.

A simple honing guide, a combination stone, and a basic strop is all you really need to sharpen plane irons. You can use sandpaper instead of the stone if you are really on a budget, but a decent combo stone is worth having in the shop. You can spend hundreds of dollars on diamond stones, higher end waterstones, sharpening jigs, grinder wheels, etc, but with proper technique, a bit of practice, and about 10 minutes work improving the honing guide the 3 items above will get any plane iron or chisel razor sharp. Grinder is mostly used for lathe tools and to speed up major regrinding or damage repair in a wood shop.

Here's a video on how to properly sharpen a plane iron with the guide.

I like to apply paste wax to the sole and other exposed steel surfaces of my planes (and most other tools in the shop) to prevent rust. I like johnson's paste wax.

u/papermageling · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

u/EnsErmac · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Get yourself a King 1000/6000 stone. and a King 300 stone these are pretty much considered some of the best bang for your buck out there and will give you everything you need in whetstones.

u/sparhawk1985 · 2 pointsr/Chefit

I really like this one. It's the best I've had and it works great. It's a water stone, so don't use oils on it!

u/Peng15 · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Hey I was wondering if you can clarify why these 2 same stones are priced differently and if the Amazon one is fake.

The amazon one says to soak the stone for 2 min on 1000 grit side and spash water on the finishing stone. The JKI one says to soak for 15 minutes before use.

I'm getting mixed answers on how often I should sharpen a knife. How often should one sharpen a knife if they only cook for themselves 2 meals a day?

Thanks man!

u/blueturtle00 · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

These are what I use, I've got the 400, 1000, 5000

If those are too expensive Amazon has a pretty decent 1000/6000 stone for beginners

u/newtothelyte · 2 pointsr/Cooking

This is the whet stone you want. The 1000 grit is rough enough to significantly shape your knife while the 6000 grit is easily fine enough to give you that perfect edge.

Maintain the edge with a ceramic honer. I bought this one cheap on amazon and it works fantastically

u/rockstarmode · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

I have a King water stone, and have used it to put new edges on blades that have been neglected for years. IMO once you have the right tools, technique is where you should be spending your time. You might want to take a look a Global's knife sharpening technique video. The technique in the video tends to work best on knives with relatively flat blade profiles (Global makes Japanese knives), but I've adapted it to work with my western knives relatively easily.

Edit: Wow, downvotes? Great job people

u/mynewpeppep69 · 2 pointsr/chefknives

This is the stone I've used, recommended in the wiki for this sub (which you should read as well)

u/saturday186 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Dandelion and burdock !!!

All of them are pretty hilarious but the first one on the second page shows the true qualities of this giant swiss army knife. Then just read the short one after that.


Also since nike foams were a pretty big thing back home, these reviews made me bust out laughing.

u/Bobbert_Flinton · 2 pointsr/funny

This one might actually be the original. Much funnier.

(See top comment in link.)

u/girmad · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/betheliquor · 2 pointsr/ar15

Check out the [Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife](Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant reviews.

u/zrizza · 2 pointsr/funny

Amazing. I love the Internet community. If you liked this you'll definitely enjoy the Amazon reveiws for the Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife. Oh, and also this banana slicer. I have both pages bookmarked for rainy days - the reviews are that funny.

u/Proxystarkilla · 2 pointsr/zelda

As a character he's so powerful, in the lore I mean. Hero of Time, Light, the Gods and all that. He has the Sword of Evil's Bane and banishes the evil Ganon and all that. For gameplay, he has tons, tons TONS of gear. Think Hoss Delgado, with all his different hand weapons was morphed with this. Hookshot, longshot, clawshot, Ocarina, Wind Waker, Spirit Flute, Master Sword, magic masks used for rituals that turn him into other races or a gigantic Link or the Fierce Deity Link, the Megaton Hammer, bombs, bows imbued with fire, ice and light, the list goes on. He's a Swiss Army Knife with an item for every situation and he wears magic plot armor. Also magic armor powered by money.

u/Google_Ninja · 2 pointsr/pics
u/MaybE_Tree · 2 pointsr/linuxmasterrace

Sighhhh you bait worked. Here goes!

vim a text editor, which is only a part of a development environment. You need other programs to go along with it, like a file manager, a terminal, a compiler and a debugger. Think of it like tools in a toolbox -- each performs its own task and is separate from the others. Now, of course, as you say, doing things this way is stupid when you can just get an IDE! Just like carrying around a toolbox is stupid when you can get the Wegner 16999 87-tool swiss army knife. It has a saw, a hatchet, a screwdriver, a hammer and a spot welder all integrated into it for ease of access! Of course, if you don't like the shape of the saw, there's no way to replace it, but who would ever need that amirite? It's a bit cumbersome to handle, but the way it's all integrated together increases your productivity! Not to mention the obvious ergonomic benefits!

Minimalism is not about taking away key features. It's about distributing the workload between separate interchangeable and configurable parts that work together to make a greater whole. If you're installing a file manager into vim as a plugin, you're already missing the point!

And you need to enable the system clipboard in vim during compile-time, or get the vim-huge (iirc) package from your package manager. The command to copy is "+y , cut is "+d and paste is "+p

u/DeusExNoctis · 2 pointsr/Survival

I think this should do the trick.

And check out the reviews!

u/thawizard · 2 pointsr/Skookum
u/epilepticrave · 2 pointsr/knives

Still significantly less impressive than the Giant

u/medicfourlife · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This is an essential product for anyone enjoys trying to tweeze their eyebrows whilst simultaneously corkscrewing their eyeball. Those who do not have a gun for self protection (and even those who do) should own one of these, as there are few things less destructive. Just throwing it at your assailant can cause all kinds of bodily harm that would put Chuck Norris to shame.

u/Right-wing_snowflake · 2 pointsr/ScenesFromAHat
u/DenjinJ · 2 pointsr/YouShouldKnow

Hopped a couple links from that and found a really relevant one... check out the comedy reviews for this monster SAK. (Think I got the whole referrer link stripped out...)

"I tried to file my nails, but in the process I accidentally fixed a small engine that was near by. Which was nice"

u/mj4276 · 2 pointsr/funny
u/homelesspolitician · 2 pointsr/humor

Phenomenal. I remember reviews like this for the Wenger Swiss Knife Giant.

u/Agent_Eclipse · 2 pointsr/EDH

I use this. Slightly smaller than the Fatmax XL but at $20 less it works fine and you could buy two. Each bin holds a deck easily with room for tokens/extras...12 decks if you trade out the big bins for small bins.

u/TyDiL · 2 pointsr/lego

You got this picture from, surely you can buy that exact product?

I just searched "storage cabinet" and got the exact item you wanted for fairly cheap and free shipping:

Why not just go with this? If it were $24 for US amazon, then I'd probably buy it. I just bought three of these because of the sale and so I can have portable storage:


u/SithSerith · 2 pointsr/magicTCG
u/rimfire24 · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I've got an Oloro deck I'm trying to decide if it's going under the knife, getting restructured as another commander, or getting deconstructed. Also, if you're trying to transport a bunch of decks, I've found this to be a game changer. Perfectly fits decks, looks nice, and you can fit 8-10 decks and nice in one case for less than $20

u/dontpanic4242 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer

I got that in the mail yesterday, it's great. Feels very durable and well put together. The compartments are all removable and rearrangeable. I use it for my diy juice concentrates and it has no problem holding 30ml bottles, probably even 50ml bottles standing up. I can get a picture of mine with all the juice bottles inside when I get home in a few hours if anyone is interested.

u/scuba_steves · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

Your local hardware store has toolboxes that commander decks fit nicely in. Haven't tried them with 60 card decks but I've seen quite a few put commander decks in them. Something like this or this.

u/toxiczombiex · 2 pointsr/EDH

I personally use the Stanley organizer. Perfect fit for up to 8 commander decks, and two larger spaces for anything you need. All the compartments are rearrangeable and no cards fall through because the lid seals tightly.

I suppose you could make it fit 7 commanders, and remove the 2 big compartments and 1 small one, and it might be able to fit a playmat. But i just carry the case+my backpack with my trade binder and playmat.

Best of all its super cheap, and super sturdy.

u/2ByteTheDecker · 2 pointsr/EDH

you want the stanley toolbox.

the small compartments hold an double sleeved edh deck with the commander in a toploader. the large compartments are perfect for dice/counters/tokens/draft sleeves w/e.

I can tell all the decks apart based on the sleeve color.

u/steveXray · 2 pointsr/EDC

Items listed below with links in case anybody is interested:

Persol Sunglasses

Leuchtturm1917 Hardcover Dotted Journal (I try to journal daily)

Distilunion Card Minimalist Card Wallet (This is probably the best slim card wallet i've every had. Hard to beat)

Seiko SKX013

Parker Ink Pen

Leather Journal Cover (I love the smell of this thing! ha)

Explore Notebook (This notebook is more of a to-do list v my daily journal. Helps me stay organized)

Leatherman Squirt (This thing always comes in handy)

Mophie Powerstation

Kershaw Clash

iPad Air 2

iPad Air 2 Keyboard Case

Speck iPhone 7Plus Case

iPhone 7Plus (Not Pictured)

u/NarrWallace · 2 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman style CS is what I carry. Fairly solid and very light weight. They also make the style ps which has pliers and the style, which is an even smaller tool. Also as others suggest, the squirt ps4 seems like a solid choice.

u/KazakiLion · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

This Leatherman Keychain. Blister packs will never haunt you or your friends again.

u/Mister_Po · 2 pointsr/EDC

This might be a little small, but I just picked up a Leatherman Style PS for my keychain and I love it so far. It's replaced my much larger Leatherman Charge as part of my EDC since I pretty much only used the pliers and scissors.

u/GRat9717 · 2 pointsr/EDC

So a few days ago I took a shot at trying a few of the 'cheap' $30 shoulder bags on Amazon. I ordered a bunch and this was the one that remained after a few hours of testing all of them. It holds absolutely everything despite being such a small bag (13.9" Height, 10.5" Width, 4.1" Depth). The pockets make the most sense when compared to competitors. Here is my carry list with some updates that show its full versatility (especially as a personal item when flying). Also, bag link here.

u/Ruffianlink · 2 pointsr/EDC

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

u/afrobafro · 2 pointsr/EDC

Knife - CRKT squid $17.99

Wallet - Recycled firefighter $19.00

Light - ThruNite T01 $9.95

Multitool - Leatherman Style PS $24.95

Pen - Fischer space pen bullet $19.67

Notebook- Rite in the rain $5.98

Lighter - bic mini $1 gas station

Total $98.54

Hard mode just get the knife wallet and light

u/cappnplanet · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

this is a great version that fits on a keychain. I use it daily.

u/GeoffShade · 2 pointsr/EDC

How about the Leatherman Style PS? Super small compact pliers/multi tool without a knife on board. Check it for yourself.

u/flyinglotus1983 · 2 pointsr/EDC

> Multi-tool always seem too heavy for what they offer

  • Leatherman Style PS @ 44 grams
  • Leatherman Style CS @ 44 grams
  • Leatherman Skeletool @ 141 grams (5 ounces)
  • Leatherman Skeletool CX @ 141 grams (5 ounces).

    That's not heavy if you ask me. I think the Style is perfect for every-day on-person EDC, and the Skeletool for either on-person or in an EDC bag. The Skeletool is missing some features compared to a full-up Charge TTi (8 ounces) or similar, but for an EDC, it's better than not carrrying a multitool at all.
u/tim404 · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Just buy these. Thank me later.

In fact, buy two or three.

u/plc268 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:


If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

  • Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5.
  • Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  • Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive.
  • M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws.
  • 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it.

    Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.

    The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.

    Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.


    A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.

  • The vibration dampers mentioned previously ( work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (

  • After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter ( to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.

  • I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth.

  • The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out ( and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.

  • Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.
u/wolfkeeper80 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Look for a flat side cutter/nipper.


You can spend anywhere from $5 to $50 for one. $5 ones are fine if you're sanding/priming/painting the kit and can hide the stress marks. You'll want to look at the more expensive ones as they are sharper and can do less physical/visual damage to the surrounding plastic if you're doing straight builds.

I use these:

Or, if you have money to blow, these are the gold standard:

u/beanmosheen · 2 pointsr/electronics

You should be using flush cut pliers to cut tywraps. Dikes will leave the dangerous end. Example

u/K0nichiwa_B1tches · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Not bad for the first time. Did you trim the leads before you inserted them? I highly recommend you get these wire cutters. These cut through wire like butter and thin enough to get to tight spaces.

u/vprviper · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/IllRememberThisUser · 2 pointsr/cableporn

You and I have a significantly different view on cheap. These will cut zip ties like nobody's business for much much cheaper.

u/godswearhats · 2 pointsr/Malifaux

Scissors are no good. I got these clippers from Amazon. They are actually wire clippers, but the $5 is well spent.

All the models in the Misaki box are Ten Thunders, except Misaki and Shang (the totem) who are dual faction. However, Misaki has a special rule that allows her to hire four "Last Blossom" models into her crew regardless of declared faction, so if you declare her as Outcasts you can still hire the whole crew box.

Each boxed set comes with all the bases you need, so don't worry on that front.

For competitive play with the Guild Masters, you'd probably want to have both boxes as the Judge and Francisco are excellent henchmen, and Death Marshals are good minions, and Nino is a good Enforcer.

Ultimately when you get fully competitive (think: Magic the Gathering) you end up having every model in the faction.

u/grem75 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I prefer temperature controlled stations, that one just has control of the wattage and no monitoring of the temperature.

Get some good side cutters for trimming component leads.
Like these.

Also, "helping hands" in general are mostly useless, I prefer a vice for PCB work.

As far as solder pump vs wick, get both.

u/eagleace21 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Ah yeah those will cut but you need something that will cut shorter. I found these on Amazon they work great!

u/I_had_the_Lasagna · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Ceramic tweezers and wire cutters, I like these and these kind I got a three pack of different kinds but it's no longer available. For cotton this will last forever. if you don't already have screwdrivers and/or bits to wrap your coils something like this works great. For roundwire something like this will last till the end of time.

u/InvaderJ · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/averoth123 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I don't have much to add just going to go in to a bit more detail. I usually try to keep at least 2 or more of each screw or nut my drones use, that includes the motors, camera mount, ANY screw.

Loctite/thread locker will help but some times repeated hard crashes loosen screws and you may not realize it. With that said you don't want to use anything above blue Loctite such as red or green, you want to be able to get the screws off!

I also bought a ton of micro JST connectors and a crimper to repair balance lead connectors. This wouldn't be needed if you are diligent about keeping your battery wires away from your props, I was not, but some times it is unavoidable.

And the random things I keep around are; velcro, VHB tape, shrink tubing of various sizes(you can get assortments from Amazon), spare VTX pig tails, various sizes of silicone wire (26awg for ESC signal wire, 18ga wire for power and ground to ESCs, 14awg for power leads), flush cutters, different tipped tweezers, spare antenna cable for the receiver, servo leads, circlip pliers.

All that comes to mind at the moment but I am sure I am missing stuff. Here are some links!

Flush Cutters

26awg Silicone Wire

14awg Silicone Wire

VHB Tape

Micro JST Crimper

Micro JST Connectors

Circlip Pliers

Servo Connectors-not silicone


u/admiralnorman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I find making the cables to be the nicest looking.

u/ericmoritz · 2 pointsr/RDA

not really. I just squeeze everything in an ego carrying case
It all barely fits but this is what I have in there:

  1. four spools of 100ft wire of different gauges (30g, 28g, 26g, and 24g)
  2. wire cutters
  3. a pair of precision screw drivers (phillips and flat)
  4. tweezers
  5. a magnet (for catching clipped kanthal)
  6. a jewelers loupe (for counting wraps when I'm unsure)
  7. manicure scissors for trimming cotton
  8. some drill bits
  9. some emergency cotton (if I'm not at home or too lazy to go upstairs to get a new cotton ball from my bag)
u/video_descriptionbot · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
Length | 0:01:17

Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00

Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers Wire Clippers 24g Kanthal Organic Japanese Cotton Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 The Mako The IMP Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram Twitter Facebook Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32


^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

u/TheSheDM · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Flush cutters. You don't have to get the ones branded specifically for minis, they'll probably be overpriced anyway. Just hit your local hardware store and look at wire cutters and get flush edge ones. Regular wire cutters pinch the metal on both sides, leaving an uneven cut. Flush cutters are designed to pinch on one side, leaving the other side cut flat. This is important for sniping off sprues, cutting of weapons, or the bases on minis.

The metal in most Reaper minis is soft enough for flush cutters to handle. You might need to take the base off small chunks at a time. You can use larger standard wire cutters to cut off large chunks, then use the smaller flush cutter to clean up the edges around the feet. You can use a file to clean up any small bits remaining.

I have this exact cutter and it works great.

u/rocketsp13 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

These are the ones I'm currently using, if you can get something similar delivered, or just buy it at a hardware store.

All you really need is for them to be beveled on one side, and not beveled on the other side. "Flush cut" is the key word you want to look for as that leaves less mess on the mini.

u/screwyluie · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

CHP-170 Micro Cutter

These are fantastic cutters that have served me well for a long time. Highly recommended for this application and not expensive.

u/pizza_is_a_lie · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That file? Not very well, no. You need one where the file pattern is present on the end of the file like the far-end one here. This means that you can get right in to the cap to smoothen it off!

I used a pair of wire cutters similar to these to cut the rest of the cap away to leave just the stem.

If you're LightningXI, I've just messaged you!

u/krazykitties · 2 pointsr/ECR_Plus

$250 is way too much for what you listed, you can get way cheaper than that. Keep in mind you really don't NEED 100W to use an RDA. My homemade DNA30 is great for a cool vape on something with a bit more restricted airflow than the Mutation, but that will still work just fine. I would stick with your current Sigelei 30W until you know for sure you want to upgrade, because that is going to cost you the single most amount of money.

If you want the mutation x v2, grab it here for $30, its worth getting this one authentic and not a clone because its so cheap to begin with and most clones do not have the wide bore drip tip.

Japanese Cotton is what I usually use.

For the rest of your gear, Lightning Vapes has a good selection of well priced rebuilding supplies:

Ohm Meter $14.75

I recommend Ceramic Tweezers $12.95

I mostly use 28ga Kanthal (100 feet for $6.25) with my 30W box mod, with mechs I use lower gauges

I would also find a pair of flush cutters to snip wires as close to the posts as you can, and some nice small scissors to cut your cotton.

OH! Almost forgot, this is what I use to wrap my coils.

As a general rule of thumb, don't buy wire or wick from websites that sell mostly juice or hardware, it will almost always be overpriced.

If you want to get REALLY cheap and don't mind waiting, go check out Fasttech

u/mikeybox · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I think you did well for your first time. If you want pointers keep reading, feel free to ignore since you did good enough and it works.

For clipping the leads I'd try to clip them as short as you can (and clip after soldering, if that's not what you did). These make it easy to do.good trimming:
CHP-170 Micro Cutter

For the solder joints, you don't need to use so much. Also a lot of them are dull instead of shiny which sometimes means the joint wasn't solid or wasn't hot enough. What temperature are you setting your iron to and what kind of solder are you using?

About the difficulty snapping in the switches, with a keyboard this small you can snap all the switches in first without using the pcb, just by holding the edges of the plate, and as long as the switch pins are straight, you can drop the plate + switches on after, that's what I did.

If other switches were popping out, they probably weren't fully snapped in. Do these switches have the big.SMD LED cutout? Mine did, and so that part of the LED housing will sometimes flex and not really snap all the way in, partly because this plate is a little on the thick side. You can snap them most of the way in, then go back with a small screwdriver and push from inside the LED cutout to force the teeth to grab the lower edge of the plate. Once the switches are fully snapped in they will not come out just from the force of snapping other switches in, if they were doing that then I'd almost guarantee that one side wasn't fully snapped in on the switches. I wouldn't worry about it now though, the switches are soldered in and that should hold them in place anyway.

Overall great job for your first soldering build!

u/man_on_a_screen · 2 pointsr/metalearth

Assuming you can get it in Canada (not sure if Amazon ships everything everywhere) I found these to be very good Cutters to get the pieces out of the sheets, they are a very good price and seem to be pretty good quality. They are kind of a must have in my opinion. I've had mine about a month and I'm very happy with them. Sometimes they are listed as an add-on item where you have to buy something else along with it, and other times they listed as just a regular item you can buy by itself, looks like currently it's listed as an add-on item tho.

Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity

u/DONG_MAGNUM · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

nah. wire is extremely cheap (get a variety of common gauges), cotton wick is cheap too. this plus a pair of wire cutters is all you really need assuming you already have scissors/screwdrivers/etc

u/Symz58 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I couldn't do the subtanks simple because I'm clumsy and drop everything. I want one but I'm worried I'll break it immediatly. I started making coils with the help of a friend's husband because mine were not putting out enough heat. I've only changed coils once in the last month, but I regularly Rewick. I hate tasting an old flavor in my mod.

It is kind of a hobby but don't let these guys here with their crazy coils scare you. I do very simple parallel single coil(which is just two wires wrapped together in paralell) at like .2 Ohms and it hits great. I'm sure there are even better but to be honest sometimes these parallels hit hard for me.

I'd Recommend a Mech Unless you have a low Ohm regulated mod

If you get a Mech:

  • To start I'd get an Efest Purple 35A battery or two.
  • A Charger There is an I4 and D4 for those who need more batteries I only go through 1 a day.

    Coil Supplies:

  • Some 26 or 28 gauge kanthal.
  • Organic Cotton
  • Pliers & Cutters

  • An Ohm Meter To test the coils

  • You can wrap around drill bits or a Jig tool

  • Cermaic tweezers to compress your coils

  • Vaper's toolbox App to check the Amps being pulled. Generally your find above .2 with a 35A (Amp limit) battery. The Powertool is most important. You enter 4.2 which is max Battery voltage and the resistance and it tells you how many amps it pulls out. You do not want to ever exceed your battery capacity.

u/erleichda_archiving · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

As pointed out you should snip the LED leads. I would not suggest scissors you may break the solder and PCB. Can you get some side snips at a local store?

u/EldanRetha · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

I went with these. Haven't used them on any sprues yet, but I've cut some stuff I have and they feel great. Also, if they suck they only end up being $5.

u/Flat-sphere · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

u/ygecko · 2 pointsr/olkb

I used a pair of cutters from this amazon link.
They work great for flush trimming stuff.
I think I saw some of those at home depot last week if you are in the US and are near one of those...

u/theimmc · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I just had to do that recently. I used this:

Any flush cutter will work, this just happens to be a decent one that doesn't cost a lot, and can be used for cutting wires.

The most difficult part is preventing the little plastic bits from flying all over the place.

u/themellowmedia · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Absolutely. I'd recommend the following if you are going to be sleeving existing PSU cables:

Tool | Price | Description
MFC Molex Extractor | $10.99 | This is the most important tool you'll need, don't cheap out here. This one from MainFrame Customs is the best I've used
Side Cutters | $5 | You'll want these to cut the sleeving. It works way better than scissors

Now those are the basic tools, if that's all you want to get away with then be very careful and take your time while extracting the pins. Otherwise you'll want the following to re-crimp the broken pins.

Tool | Price | Description
Crimping Tool | $23 | Great quality crimping tool, works for all PC pin types (atx goes in the larger slot :) )
Stripper | $41 | Great stripper, makes it very easy to get consistent strips, ideal for crimping, however you could use regular stippers
ATX female pins | $0.30 for 5 | Replacement pins

If you end up needing to get these tools, one benefit is you can cut your cables to the lengths you need which will make it very clean for cable management. Lastly, if you are going to use paracord and are not re-crimping the pins, I would recommend this Paracord threader. It'll keep the pins from tearing the paracord and make sleeving a lot easier. If you are going with PET Teleios Sleeve, you wont need it, as PET expands enough to make it easy to sleeve over the connector.

u/cdiv · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The mk3 kit comes with all the allen keys necessary, philips and flat head screwdrivers, and needle nose pliers.

I'd suggest some cheap cutters, you'll want them during assembly for the zip ties and after for filament. Brass brushes are handy for cleaning the nozzle.

For cleaning the bed, alcohol and windex from your friendly neighborhood grocery, drug, or big box store. Or the unfriendly store, if you prefer. (Windex for prior to printing PETG; alcohol for PLA)

Eventually, you'll probably want 7mm and 17mm wrenches for changing the nozzle.

u/bananapeel · 2 pointsr/Tools

Depends on the person. I have big hands and have to reach deep into a rack a few dozen times a day.

Also I might recommend a Hakko micro wire cutter.

u/Demortem · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Step one: don't use a raft unless you absolutely have to. If you do have to, invest in a pair of these and go to town. Heat gun/butane torch will also help if used very carefully.


As for making the top smooth, that's all about your printer calibration and settings. Without seeing what the top looks like or your settings I can't help with that one.

u/SlaughterhouseIce9 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I just picked up on Amazon a pin vise hand drill set, some flush cutters (the ones I've been using aren't flush and it's been annoying when trimming off sprue bits), and a lighted clamp magnifying class set, total was about 25 bucks.

u/GoAViking · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You'll also need something to clip your leads when building your coils and some tweezers to pinch them tight and make them perform efficiently. These but regular fingernail/toenail clippers will do, and these allow you to pinch the coils while firing your mod, which you cannot do with all metal tweezers.

u/nikondork · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Cuts flush and pointy enough for me.

u/kschang · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Flush Cutter, aka flush-cutting plier

The CHP-170 is pretty good and it's less than $5 on Amazon

u/Sampson2612 · 2 pointsr/Vaping

Glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. I got these from Amazon for about $5

u/uuzinger · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I highly recommend you take it to another store and ask them if they can build your first coils for you. Most places will do it for you for free if you buy a small container of ejuice from them. Ask if you can watch them build it, and ask questions about what type of wire, wick, diameter of the coil, etc. I've found that every good store is glad to help train new users and won't make you feel bad about starting in the hobby. Get used to how their coil acts, performs, etc. Some of my local places have 'build and brunch' days, where they invite lots of people to come in and get help, learn about stuff, share tips, etc.

You're also going to want a few spare batteries (so one can charge while you're using the other), a battery charger, wick, wire, and an ohm meter.

You can compare prices on Amazon to make sure you're not paying 2x retail.

Cheap ohm meter:
I'm sure you can get better ones, but I have this. It matches the readings on my evic, so I'm reasonably sure it's accurate.

Wire cutters:

Kanthal wire:




Never hook up new coils to your battery without doing a resistance check first. Results can be very very bad.

u/Sir_Prancelot_ · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG
u/TychoSean · 2 pointsr/boardgames

The one I'm thinking of was much bigger as he had done away with the box completely. More like THIS. Some of the pics in the product link are gaming related...

u/timmyisme22 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Nice one mate. They should have those Plano's on Amazon for $25. Just picked up 2 clearance at Kmart for $7.50 though, so try your local one if you have one.

Also, nice stuff.

u/flash42 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

Try the Plano 5231. Amazon just had them on sale for $6.99, but I'm not sure if that's still active.

Edit: Just checked. They're now $9.99 on Prime.

u/HerbertTarlek · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I use single-sided Plano Stow-n-Go Organizers to store all my electronics parts.

u/FogRaker_One · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Check out this post:

I use a tackle box with Willli's Micro hangers:

These Plano boxes are very common (and on clearance):

u/foggymountainman · 2 pointsr/typewriters

If you are trying to free up sticky, the best thing I have found is PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst Be sure to have a pair of rubber gloves and lots of ventilation. Be very careful not to let this get on plastic. I'd spray a little bit down where the typebar goes into the element and work the key until it is smooth up and down. Wipe off the excess and let it air out for a day or so. You should be good to go. A little goes a long way. This has freed every sticky machine I've ever dealt with. Regarding lubrication, I guess I'd say the lighter the machine oil the better -

u/zombiedodge · 2 pointsr/cars

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

u/jrocbaby · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.

Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.

Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.

These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha

u/tomogchi · 2 pointsr/mechanics

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

u/givemeafreakinbreak · 2 pointsr/pics

PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.

u/Jimmers1231 · 2 pointsr/Toyota

Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.

u/RobAtSGH · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

u/rrmains · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/bigfig · 2 pointsr/sailing

Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.

u/used2bgood · 2 pointsr/random_acts_of_lego

I have over 500 sets, so my storage gets a little pricey, but I used a combination of five things:

  • Akro parts bins for food items, minifig parts, and other small, uncommon pieces.

  • Plano tackle boxes for smaller pieces like 1x3 or 1x2 bricks, that I have in medium quantity, but in all different colors (I sort by color first, then piece type/size)

  • Stack-on boxes because they're large, stackable, dividable, and CHEAP.

    and lastly,

  • Ikea SAMLA bins for bigger bricks (2x8's and such), plates, odd pieces, and wheels. They're clear, stackable, and come with lids.

    Also crucial to my organization is a label maker, and they have good cheap ones at Costco. You could always just print out pictures of the bricks or a box inventory and use packing tape to seal it on, but I like the label maker look.

    My Lego room looks something like this, although nowhere near as many bricks.

    My nephew, who only has about 30 sets, uses small Tupperware type containers to sort the pieces, and keeps them in drawers like this, with a plywood table top bolted through the tops of each cabinet so that he can build and move the table around (although his is four cabinets bolted in a square).

    We also found some cool ideas here, but went with something else that worked better for our house/lifestyle. :)

u/rachelboory · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

I think boards are a safe bet!

What does he usually do with his pieces? Does he hang them, make them into magnets or pins?

Do you know where he gets his beads? A gift card to Joann or Michaels would be an awesome idea, because he could get his own beads with that.

If he doesn't have anywhere to store them right now, maybe a drawer set like this one is a good idea!

u/Im_clean · 2 pointsr/AFOL

I currently use two of these. I use them for all my smaller bricks. Some of each plate, specialty stuff like hinges and decorating pieces. I use shoebox size rubbermades for the rest of the actually blocks, bigger plates, windscreens, plants, etc... They aren't super huge and are stackable on top of each other. I looked at tackle boxes but liked the viewable drawers and the expandability. The drawers are also dividable into two separate areas so 64 drawers becomes 128. Lots of room for a decent size collection.

u/IVIuggle · 2 pointsr/lego

If you've only got two tubs, I'd suggest maybe sorting them by color in these drawers. They're a bit expensive on amazon, you might be able to find them cheaper at your local Walmart. These types are good for organizing into individual parts, but might be a bit overkill for a smaller collection.

u/FurMich · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I have about the same setup:

I like it. I haven't had any issues with pieces migrating slots (except that time I dropped everything...) but I agree with /u/trevmurf about the foam on the lid, that would fix it, alternatively you could cut your own dividers, but that's a bit of a hassle.

One thing I've thought about (when I have a dedicated workspace) is something like this:

u/beernoulli · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I like these a lot. I have a few on my workbench. My organization system ranges from a drawer with a specific size but that I bought a box of, to a drawer full of randomly sized nails that I pulled out of old junk. If you have a lot of one type if thing, they have versions with larger drawers too.

It's still old man level hoarding, but it's more old man engineer level hoarding.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet

u/Kiosade · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

For organization I originally started with one of those uhh... craft carrying case things. It’s plastic and has a bunch of dividers that make up little boxes inside. But that became a hassle when I got too many colors, so I got a couple of those parts organizers (similar to this —> It’s WAY better, because you can take out the drawers you need to your table or whatever instead of ALL your colors. Makes grabbing the beads easier too.

As for sorting, I think you have the right idea. Take out the easiest, most distinguished colors first, then end up with the tan/pink/orange colors that are harder to tell apart. Takes a while but there’s really no better way. I suggest pouring say a few handfuls into a big wide soup bowl at a time and sort that, then rinse and repeat.

u/MrMontgomery · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got a drawer cabinet thingy to keep all my bits and pieces in, it's the UK version of this

u/LThanda · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

And the containers are part of the Arko Mils storage cabinet. I have 2 of the 64 drawer. Each drawer holds about 1000 beads.

That said, if you don't want to spend the money on it, there's a really clever solution with using empty water bottles for each color. Makes it easier to pour out and you don't have to worry about them spilling (just put the cap on it!)

u/rushaz · 2 pointsr/maille

What's funny is, you're going to run out space with that REAL quick.

This is what I got for my larger rings

This is for my smaller rings

These are awesome for seeing things at a glance, and keeping a storage spot for them

u/NovaWildstar · 2 pointsr/Etsy

I have moved into a larger house - we specifically hunted for a house that had studio space because my company was spilling out of the office into the guest room, family room, kitchen etc. 1.5 years later - we are looking to move again - this time with a full walk out daylight basement for my studio.

I recommend using as much vertical space as possible. I have put up shelves and cut up cardboard boxes to create dividers so I can cram them full of envelopes. Clear tubs with snapping lids that stack Labels, etc. My husband has built custom risers for the printers to store paper underneath. Pegboard, 100s of tiny drawers. Anything and everything really.

It's awesome to see your business grow and how much stuff you need just to stay organized.

u/WiredEarp · 2 pointsr/arduino

I was planning on 3d printing a set of small component drawers, but I just saw these and they seem pretty reasonably priced:

I think those look perfect for me. I've also seen other ones with different sets of drawer sizes in the one unit.

u/DefaultGen · 2 pointsr/pinball

I use Harbor Freight's rolling bin rack. I put my tools on top and big parts and stuff on bottom. Small parts in these Akro-Mils bins. You outgrow individual tool boxes quickly.

u/stregabello · 2 pointsr/CrossStitch

I believe it's an organizer generally used for organizing hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, etc). Like this: Hardware Storage

u/Lookatmypinkpony · 2 pointsr/beadsprites
u/kowalski71 · 2 pointsr/arduino

I think the big question when it comes to component organization is portable or not? If portable there are some good (and cheap!) options like card binders and tackle boxes, which other people have suggested.

I'm currently getting my bench set up where I'll be doing most of my electronics and I'm finding it a bit trickier to do without spending a bunch. I'll probably get drawer organizers with as many drawers as possible for components like resistors, caps, and inductors.

I think first-order retrievability is a worthy consideration when it comes to tools, including dev boards. At work I have plastic bins in all kinds of sizes and those work well. They offer good compartmentalization and organization but because they're open and have the shorter front they're easy to look into and access, or move to a bench, etc.

u/BtDB · 2 pointsr/lego

akro mills storage cabinets. theseor these
sort by type, takes longer to sort at first, but so worth it.

u/rabbiabe · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I’m also new to the game and I’ve found tayda to be a much more accessible site than Mouser — I get overwhelmed by the apparently galactic selection and can’t figure out what to get.

Also u/preppyprepface had really important advice— don’t skimp on your stock. I had to go back to tayda almost immediately and order a bunch more stuff because I initially ordered exactly what I needed for a specific PCB and then got really excited about other potential projects, and the shipping takes a while (weirdly, at a certain point if you order enough it comes DHL from Thailand which for some reason is faster than however they ship from Colorado. Who understands these things?). The most important thing to remember is that things will get screwed up — last week I ruined a 3PDT and shorted an LED and it was great to just reach into the bin for another one and keep chugging. Resistors in particular are so cheap that you can’t even buy less than 10 at a time (10 resistors = $0.12 so it makes sense)

You’ll also want a way to keep things organized — I bought this and this and these. In retrospect I wish I had bought two of the first one, but they’re all useful. Some of the bin walls are removable so you can make different size spaces for different kinds of parts. I then used regular sticky labels (Avery 5160) to label the outside so I could see what went where — for the smaller parts like resistors and capacitors I grouped them, so all the x10kΩ resistors went in one bin (in their little ziploc bags), all the x100kΩ in another bin, etc. it still requires some fishing through (vs buying a big table top organizer) but I live in a small house :)

u/DialgoPrima · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

Simple design, doesn't stick out too much- the Akro-Mils 64 compartment organizer. This is what I personally use, and I love the heck out of it. The drawers come out easily so you don't have to worry about reaching up for whatever colors you need, you can just grab the trays and go. For bead count- each drawer holds approx. 1250-1500 beads. If you don't fill it up past there, you should also be able to subvert the spillage through shaking crisis. I should also mention the drawers can stack if needed. They don't seal, but they are held in fairly securely. By "tub of nightmares", I'm assuming you mean the 11,000 tub? I got roughly 30 colors from it, with colors varying in quantity. Black, white, yellow, blue, red, green come in numbers. Some of the other colors, like the light greens, browns, and pastels are rarer. If your wife is serious about the hobby, she will be wanting to get the 1000 pc bags.

u/sakodak · 2 pointsr/arduino

I went from almost zero knowledge (blinking light tutorials, etc) to this in about a month. I'm nowhere near an expert now, but I designed and built something with my own brain and two hands and learned quite a bit in the process.

For me it helps to have something "real" to do. Something I actually need (or want,) then I can just plow through the bullshit and make that thing work. I still really have no clue what I'm doing (as evidenced by this) but now I have a shed with light and sound effects.

As for components, you can get stuff from mouser, jameco or lots of places, but I think the best bang for your buck when you're getting started is to just order assortments of stuff. I got assortments of caps and resistors from amazon and I'm sure similar assortments are available for other components (as I'm typing this I searched for "electronic component assortment" on amazon and there are several kits that have lots of stuff, plus diodes, voltage regulators, some ICs, transistors, LEDs, knobs, buttons, etc.)

The way I see it is if you're looking at a parts list for a beginner project they're probably going to use common components. A tiny leap of logic leads to the assumption that you're going to need those parts in the future. If the project calls for a 2n3906 transistor you can either buy one for $5.00 or 50 for $7.

Another piece of advice if you go this route: buy some of these. (May want to think about one of these too.)

u/TheSass · 2 pointsr/CrossStitch
u/batibbetts · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

I got most of them (Black) from Amazon, One (Blue) I have had for almost 20yrs.

u/taako_taaco · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

I used this and it's working great! Each drawer holds a little over 1000 beads, and it's not too large that it takes up too much room. Plus, you can see the colors through the drawers.

u/Superpickle18 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use this. works ok i guess.

u/DJ_BaLaLaWa · 2 pointsr/skyrim

This is what I used.

u/triffid_hunter · 2 pointsr/arduino
u/sjhman44 · 2 pointsr/livesound

I just use a pair of these.Not the best but they do the job.

u/No_Hands_55 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

like this?

does it push the wire off the end? so like i could just keep making the stripped areas and then itll all just be cut off on the end?

u/skwolf522 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Also if you are doing alot of electrical work.

These are very useful tools.

IRWIN VISE-GRIP 2078300 Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8"

2-in-1 Interchangeable Rapi-Driv Screwdriver Klein Tools 67100

Also buy a small roll of romex. To use in pigtails and jumpers.

u/mrtravis2772 · 2 pointsr/Tools

I just got the Irwin wire strippers that I've heard good reviews on. Only ~$20 and man they're awesome.

u/backlumchaam · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

u/FonderPrism · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you don't want to wait, and have some network cable lying around, you can just use the wires inside the network cable. The wires are just the right gauge, and they're color coded, so they are perfect for handwiring keyboards.

Here's what mine looks like done using network cable: (I have later moved the pro micros and organized the wires to the pro micros a bit better). I removed the insulation using a self-adjusting wire stripper.

Note that the two bottom images (1, 2) on the page you linked to show a row-driven wiring diagram, while the rest of the images use column-driven wiring. So make sure to only follow one set of images.

u/Joywalking · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Something practical depends very much on what sort of things he does. Really good shaving cream is not practical if he doesn't shave, for example. A multitool is wonderful, but may not be useful if he wouldn't carry it.

Care to tell us a bit more about him?

u/sauceLegs · 2 pointsr/EDC

I think you can't go wrong with a Leatherman Skeletool or SAK Camper if you just want a simple, solid, low profile multitool


SAK Camper


u/PancakeEater101 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Thats the normal price, they have been around there almost since they came out. $41 on Amazon and Here is the price history

u/ProfessorLX · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/teh_i · 2 pointsr/japanlife

I carry my Leatherman Skeletool in my bag at all times, unless I am going to an airport or such.

Japanese laws say that the max size you can have for a pocket knife is 6cm

Note, that won't stop the police from getting angry if you have a knife and are in some kind of trouble already. If they can imply intent you would still be in trouble. I could carry the multitool in my belt, or in my pocket - yet I always have it in my bag in a small pocket unless I am out hiking/camping.

u/Roeh · 2 pointsr/santashelpers
($39.91 at the time this was posted)

I already have one, and I'd still love to get one of these!

If any of these four guys do anything with their hands, this -will- come in handy. I carry the Skeletool CX model every day.

Leatherman also offers a 25 year warranty on all of their products.

I hope this helps!

u/beley · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I have at least three "knives" in my truck. In the middle console I keep a Leatherman Skeletool and an EOD Breacher Bar. The breacher bar would be great for breaking a window, using as a pry bar, make shift shovel, I've even used it to mix concrete for a post hole when I couldn't find anything else.

In my GHB in the "trunk" (Honda Ridgeline), I also have a Gerber Bear Grylls fixed blade I got on clearance at Wally World.

I almost always also have a knife on me as well, usually a locking folder but sometimes a swiss army.

u/crick2000 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Skeletool has multiple variants. I am talking about this one

There is a 80+ bucks CX model as well.

u/toxiclimeade · 2 pointsr/knives

If he had been carrying a Swiss Army knife that's probably the style he prefers, Opinel makes single bladed knives that open in the same way his old SAK did, and leatherman makes amazing multitools, I would recommend checking all these brands out.

Opinel knives are usually extremely cheap and run about 20$/£, their most popular knife is the No. 8 for about 12$/£, it comes in other colors and wood types as well. No. 8 is a bigger model and it might be a little bulky for someone use to a SAK, the small the number in the name ex. No. 7, No.6, get smaller as their number designation does. I have the No. 8 Trekking knife in slate and its a pretty great knife for its price (18$/£).

If he likes Swill Army Knives, there are quite a few more options to look at, they can get a little pricey for their size at times, I own the Tinker, this was my first knife and I have found that looking at the tools on these knives would behoove you. I do not need an awl in the knife I carry every day for instance. There are many many options to chose from, and through a little sifting you may find one that you feel suits him best. Victorinox (the brand that makes swiss army knives) also makes knives that are a little closer to the opinels I mentioned earlier, a few of their models (like this one) are simply one or two blades. I would look into local laws however, I know some places do not allow blades that can be opened with one hand like the one I linked you to.

Leatherman makes wonderful multitools and a few pocket knives. Nearly everything they make have blades that lock as a safety feature, although very few can be flicked open, so I would check the specifics of this law, I doubt a multi-tool is illegal. This is the Micra, it appears to be a smaller version of a leatherman I own that I cannot find on their site. This one has a blade that opens in a way that is legal for sure, its blade does not lock either. If you find that some locking blades are allowed, the Skeletool is a favorite of mine, it may look a little outlandish but it has always had the best combination of essential tools out of any of my multi-tools, and it is one of my favorites. The Style is a smaller version with slightly different tools ( I don't think it has screwdrivers), but it's blade does not lock. The skeletool is about 70$/£ I think, and their smaller tools like the micra and style are under 30$/£, this brand has quite a bit more I didn't touch on, if you think he would like something like this I would check out site, I hope you find something that works, I know I'm always thrilled when my girlfriend gets me a new knife.

u/TheophilusOmega · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

  • 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  • Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  • 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  • Duct Tape - General purpose item
  • Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  • Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  • Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  • Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  • Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  • Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  • Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  • Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  • Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel

    Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder

    A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.

u/acidburnz_EU · 2 pointsr/AskMen

This is one is considered pretty good.
You didn't specify price range but these tools are usually used for all kinds of things. They are sturdy and will yield decades of usage.
If you look for something cheaper, try the Swiss army knifes. Also good enough but quality does have a price.

u/yonil9 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Casio Men's WV58A-1AV
(cheap watch that auto sets because I'm lazy)

Samsung Galaxy S4
(beaten up and abused but still works)

LEATHERMAN Skeltool Multi-Tool
by Leatherman:
(out of school carry just got it today)

Columbia Men's Extra Capacity Slimfold Wallet
(small easily accessible)

Edit: added descriptions

u/lepfrog · 2 pointsr/Tools

a little bit of both. you can often see when a brick and mortar store lowers their prices on some items on their website amazon will drop their price to match. for example when homedepot has blackfriday sales on the leatherman skeletool for $29 then the amazon price the past 2 years magically became $29 (as shown by camelcamelcamel it was $29.88 in December.) I am sure both companies heavily monitor each other's pricing.

u/JustASleepyLemur · 2 pointsr/EDC

If you're willing to spend $5 more, the Ontario Rat 1 in AUS-8 steel is an incredible value. It's a really impressive little folder for the price.

u/CommanderCooper · 2 pointsr/EDC

Try doing some more research before criticizing the choices of others. Gerber makes some good knives and some shit knives. BG falls under the category of shit knives.

A good example of a much higher quality knife with a much more reasonable price is the Ontario RAT 1. Better steel, better build quality, better price, better knife.

u/ElectricLamp · 2 pointsr/knives

They're both in 8cr13mov and people really underestimate them for it. It's actually a very easily maintained steel but watch out for the Clash and its bead blasted finish; it'll rust on you easily. The Freefall is stonewashed so you won't have that problem.

Honestly I'd probably prefer a [kershaw chill](] in that range for its blade geometry. It's mostly flat ground and it will make for noticeably better slicing capability. (even though it is also bead blasted)

Otherwise it'd be good to pony up ten more bucks and get a Rat II