Knife nut here. Allow me to expound.

Serrated vs Straight - Serrations are good for cutting tough soft things. Thick rope and such. Not much else.

Locking Blade with Pocket Clip - Gerber is awful. Avoid at all costs. Seriously. The construction is sub par and the materials are worse.

Kershaw is a good budget recommendation. Of the Kershaws, I would recommend the entire Ken Onion design lineup (the Leek, the Shallot, and the Chive are the three I would purchase myself. In fact, I own all three)

For the more expensive (and, frankly, gorgeous) options, I cannot recommend Benchmade enough. So many classy blades. In fact, Bechmade gets its own category.

Benchmade - Model 586: Aluminium + black G10 handles, AXIS lock, classy as fuck.

Bali-songs: Models 32, 51, 62, 63, and 67. Interesting little (and big) blades. Very fun, extremely beautiful, and a real crowd pleaser.

And that's all I'm going to type for now (at work). If you are interested, check out Benchmade, Knifecenter, and such. Feel free to head over to /r/knives /r/knifeclub for more information, or just ask me, here in comments or with a PM, if you have any questions.

Oh, and do be careful with those balis. They are partially toys, but very very sharp toys.

EDIT: I will add more when I get home late tonight if I remember to.

I'll interpret "guy stuff" as "EDC stuff".

• A Flowfold Minimalist slim wallet
  
• A Zebra F-701 stainless steel pen with a Fisher Space refill so it can write anywhere. This isn't a "tactical" pen by LE/TSA standards, but is a solid stainless steel tube, if you know what I mean.
  
• If you prefer something smaller, a Fisher Space Bullet Space Pen and/or a Zebra Mini mechanical pencil TS-3.
  
• You might also want something to write on, and a 3-pack of Field Notes, Pitch Black Edition in Dot-Grid isn't a bad choice unless you're into fountain pens, in which case you'd be better served with a Clairefontaine or. Rhodia pocket notebook. (They will feather fountain pen ink less, resulting in finer lines.)
  
  Bonus item: This isn't under $30, but $45 wil buy you a Leatherman Skeletool, which is one of the most universally useful items I own.
  
  Edit: "EDC" stands for Every Day Carry. To paraphrase the /r/EDC sidebar, EDC means the essentials that I carry a daily basis. Things that I either use every day, or want to have with me in case I might need them. Sorry for the confusion, /u/ForgottenEcho and /u/Sanctitas.

It's real lmao

Here's the link to the Amazon page these reviews are on!

According to camelcamelcamel, it sells for between $853 and $1400: Link

Every person I have ever given a Gerber Shard to (male and female), has thanked me time and again for it. At 5.99 it's the most functional multi tool for the money, it's nearly unbreakable, and it will last a long time unless they lose it.

Phone

Wallet

Bert’s Bees

Pocket Knife

Multitool (When clothing allows)

A good ink pen

Mini composition book for random notes and stuff

And a small “boo-boo” kit, NOT a full first aid kit, (mostly a few different sizes of bandaids, burn ointment, triple antibiotic ointment, Benadryl, and Ibuprofen.)

E:words and stuff

[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

That looks like Belden 1855A cable. That connector is a Neutrik rearTWIST UHD BNC connector, which means it's part number NBNC75BDD6X with the BST-BNC-6 blue boot (it comes with black boots.) The crimp die for this connector is the Neutrik DIE-R-BNCX-PDG which fits the Neutrik HX-R-BNC, the Knipex 97 43 200, or the Rennsteig PEW12 (all the same crimper.)

The Paladin/Greenlee CrimpAll PA8000 with the PA2699 crimp die will also work.

You will also need a coax stripper, I like the Greenlee CST Pro. For this cable, you will need the orange blade cartridge.

A small side cutter is also nice to trim the center conductor and any stray braid wires. My favorite is the Hakko Micro Cutter.

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

I hope you have $10,000 just lying around.

So your whetstone isn't going to actually sharpen much of anything. The grit is way too coarse to actually get an edge. It's good for repairing a chipped edge and such or reprofiling a knife if you want to change the blade angle. Then you need something finer to finish the job and get it actually sharp.

This is the stone I use. It does a pretty good job. Although the one I got was pretty far off of being flat and I had to flatten it. It's probably not a common issue since the reviews didn't mention it.

https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O

for the curious
https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

Amazon link

There is only one real review which says it's basically not even functional and was created only as a display item to demonstrate the various tools in their catalog.

(Had to repost this because I used link shorteners to stay under char limit and it got auto-deleted, so this one is finally fixed)

I'm a native New Yorker, and I'll chime in as someone who was able to buy a place in NYC (brooklyn) before turning 30. Now, the prices have exploded in my area since I bought (2010), but there are other areas that are still in the "reasonable" range.

I was by no means rich. I'm not rich, but I technically own property that has appreciated so I "have" money on paper. I can't spend that money. I am the type of person subbed to r/frugal, /r/personalfinance, and /r/churning. I grew up somewhat poor, and I think that has shaped my complete fear of going broke. For some, it may also fuel the desire to buy nice things. You have to be careful with that second one. I pay off my credit cards every month, but I also take advantage of any "no interest for 12 months" type deals on a Best Buy store card when I need a big purchase. I'm going to talk about buying, and then I'm going to talk about what I generally do financially.

"Avocado toast" really seems to be an example of a bigger underlying problem, which is that people have too many things that they spend too much money on. $14 for avocado on toast is obscene given how cheap it would be to make it yourself. And yes, I understand that they restaurant pays the rent, the servers, etc, but the point is that avocado toast and expensive coffee shouldn't really be a regular luxury. The thing is, how many other places are you basically throwing away excess money, like GrubHub and bars?

I'm not saying don't have fun. I'm saying that you should meter that stuff a bit. If you have the funds and you want to buy a Nintendo Switch, go ahead. That's a one time cost for the system, and it provides ongoing fun. But that's gotta be your thing. Your thing can't be bars AND dining out AND traveling AND expensive jeans AND tattoos AND...

Here are my personal tips for finance that may make life a bit easier. This may not lead to you buying a place, but it can lead to you getting some financial freedom. It's the same theory when it came to packing a ruck: ounces make pounds. In this case that extra money you save (or spend) adds up over time.

First off you need to plan.

I like Quicken. I used to love MS Money more, but that's gone and mint wasn't doing it for me at the time and I haven't tried it since. Don't get the new version every year. Maybe every 4 years IF you feel the new features will help you.

Quicken works best if you have steady income, but if you have income that fluctuates due to hours or tips, you should just estimate a basic income that you typically get and you can always adjust upward for actual. Better to underestimate income. So now you have an estimate of money in.

Now, you need to take control of your bills and calculate money out. Personally, I pay most of my bills weekly so they can't sneak up on me. For example, I went to the electric company website and looked at my bills for the past year, added that up, and divided by 52. That's my weekly average energy spend. It goes up in summer and down in winter. Then, for one bill I paid it off, and then the following week, I had my bank start automatic payments of that weekly amount. This does three things. First, the bills don't surprise me all at once. Second, should anything happen, I'm a month ahead of my bills, so I have some time to think. Third, with the payments going automatically, I don't have to waste time paying bills or trying to figure out what needs to be paid. And your bank send it, so you can't forget, they track it, and you don't need a stamp (if you mail it to someone).

Remember that thing I mentioned about "12 months no interest" on a store card. Don't wait 12 months and get screwed. Again, take the amount, divide by 50, send that much to the card each week for 52 weeks. So if you need a new laptop, and it's going to cost $1,300, that might really hurt your budget. However, at $25 a week, it becomes easy to manage. That's like not eating out once.

I pay for everything possible with a credit card. I could try to figure out a budget, but I'm lazy, and my spending can go all over the place. However, with the card, I just estimate what I usually spend each week and have the bank auto-pay that. This also makes it easy to track the real money in my checking account in Quicken because the output is stabilized. Just like with the other bills. Also, I get cool points and stuff that I will later use for travel or whatever, and I pay no interest.

So, in Quicken, with your general income and spending put in, you can see what your money is doing over time. And you can see if your lifestyle is going to slowly drive you to being broke. When I first got my place and needed a roommate, the area sucked. However, I could see in quicken what the minimum that I needed to charge was in order for me to not go broke. My roommate paid less than a third of the total costs were, but I was at least financially stable for the time being. Now that the area is better, it's closer to them paying half.

Save money

So let's say that you're one of the lucky people that have excess money when you look at your plan. Don't plan how to spend it. I recommend opening another bank account, setting up a regular automatic transfer, and then acting like the money isn't there.

I started doing this when I was in the military and used to get blindsided by holiday shopping. I figured out that if I could put $25 a month into another account, I would have $300 at the end of the year for gifts. That's a big chunk of money when you're semi-broke and it hits you all at once. So having that in reserve was useful.

Again, using quicken, you can see what you can put aside without completely depleting your checking account.

Also, any pay raise you get, just don't increase your standard of living, and set that money aside. It will be a great emergency fund.

Buying stuff.

I was STUPID when I got out of the military. I lived in a place that was furnished when I was in, so when I got out and had money, I bought some nice furniture. I think I blew around $8K thanks to Raymour & Flanigan. It was basically Afghanistan deployment money. I bought a nice table, chairs, a mattress and some other stuff, all for way too much.

You know where you can also get some nice stuff? Craigslist, which is where I'm currently trying to sell that nice table for a lot less than I bought it for. $200 Ikea bed frames in very good condition are going for $50. $150 for a solid table and 4 chairs that someone else paid 800 for, and they may be in great condition.

Unless there is no way to get it cheaper, I don't by anything that's not on sale, and even then it's usually what I need.

There are some places where you usually don't want to go cheap, like shoes or a mattress, or tires if you own a car.

Buy things that will last but you don't need to do it all at once. You can always upgrade stuff later, but just make sure that you don't spend a lot on the placeholder stuff.

Eating

We all need food. And we all feel like there's no time. Cooking is not that hard. Yeah, you may screw up a recipe at first, but you will get better. Most meals you can make in 30 minutes, and if you want to get really efficient, you can do things like taking a day for weekly meal prep (I don't. I should but I haven't really gotten to it).

You can cook scrambled eggs like Gordon Ramsey in under 5 minutes. Your cost: 40 cents. The cost of a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich is maybe $1.25 if you do it yourself.

Buy cookbooks geared toward simplicity.

This was my first cookbook: Cooking Outside the Pizza Box. For many of us, it's aptly named. Other ones that I have and would recommend: Healthy Cooking for Two (or Just You) and Easy Menus for Dining In.

If you want to be really cheap, just go to http://allrecipes.com/ or some similar website.

I also invested in a good chef's knife (over $100), but a mediocre one for $30 will be okay, just realize that you will need to sharpen it a little more frequently (like every 3 months), so maybe invest in a whetstone and learn a skill. Sharp knives make cutting so much easier.. A dull knife means you use more force, and are more likely to cut yourself if it slips.

Most of your meals you can make for a fraction of the cost that you pay for it outside. Coffee is the easiest. Yes a coffee maker is pricey, but if you get one that has something like an automatic function, you can get one that you can set up to make you coffee in the morning so you can save time on your prep.

Something like this and a thermos will be invaluable.

Hanging out with friends

I like to be social. Unfortunately, there are few places in NYC that you can hang out, and most of them serve food and drinks, and it's going to cost you. Bars are just convenient. Also, you can meet new people there.

However, if you or a friend have a nice space, maybe try hosting gatherings. You could even do a potluck. The drinks are cheaper, people can bring food, and if it's your place, when the night ends everyone leaves and you're right next to your bed.

Get a decent Japanese knife, and sharpen it often using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O).


Source: I have a few of them.


Edit: I should add that the knife in the link is carbon steel, which means it will rust very quickly if not properly taken care of, especially when cutting any acidic vegetables. Not wiping the knife after cutting a lemon will make it rust in a few minutes. Of course it can all be fixed with one of these, a necessity if you own a carbon steel knife.

http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ


Obviously this knife.

There was one verified review:

> I purchase this knife on Amazon. When the knife arrived I opened the package . Most of the blades were in the open position. I thought "This is a cool knife" . I closed the knife blades and was shocked to discover that a couple of the blades were longer then the body of the knife and stuck out precariously ready to slice open any finger or body part that dare come within striking distance. What is worse is that the sharp edge of the knife blade sticks right up against a metal bolster that is in perfect position to put a large knick right in the blade. I called Wenger and asked if this was the way that they intended to make the knife or if it was a defect in which the assembler possibly put the blades in the wrong channel . I was told that this knife was a "display piece" and was never intended to be functional. Well that is all well and good but then please inform the buyer as to this fact and don't produce a marketing video that shows the many uses of the knife. I purchased this knife as a gift for a collector friend and I realize that 99% of collector knives will be locked away in a safe and never used but the difference is, a quality custom OR production tool is at least functional. That is the beauty of a tool. Wenger should be ashamed of ever letting this worthless piece of dangerous scrap metal ever leave the factory. Anyone involved in this project should be fired. The cheapest far East knife factory would never let something like this leave the door. And this is Swiss made? . I have to cringe at the thought of a product liability Attorney flashing pictures of this "Closed" knife after it slices off somebodies finger. Needless to say I sent it back to Amazon WITH A WARNING

If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.

They're rather common and are available anywhere from Harbor Freight to Home Depot. This is the set that I own.

Then returned with two hookers and a cooler full of beer.

But my personal favorite:

> Received this knife as a gift for my 18th birthday. Wish I'd have known what it was because as soon as I touched it, I grew a mustache and became a Navy Seal. Mom fainted and my dad laughed and handed me a beer. I was born a girl.

>Minus 2 stars because my breasts were really nice.

Der Klassiker. Auch super im US Amazon.

Here's a link for the one and only actually verified purchase review and the guy actually gives a good reason to give it only a 1 star out of 5.

Turns out some of the knives are too long to actually be closed and you can't actually close each knife. I would also be pretty pissed. If something is so expensive, they might as well make it possible to completely close the thing.

Leatherman skeletool

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.

Going through undergrad commencement this weekend had me thinking about my time in undergrad and more specifically, those things I chose to carry with me almost every day.

Starting from the upper right hand corner and working my way around in clockwise direction.

Pens – 3 Disposable Bic pens – When it comes to pens I leave them everywhere. I leave them in class, the lab, the machine shop, etc. Because of this I buy them in bulk and then just carry a bunch of disposable pens with me. They are cheap so if I lose one or someone asks to borrow one I don’t worry about getting them back. I like these pens because I find they are comfortable to write with, wont break from me carrying them around or treating them like shit, and have a pen cap to prevent them from making a mess in my pocket. Why no pencils?  I haven’t found a mechanical pencil that is both cheap and will survive in my pocket. If you know of one that fits those two requirements let me know in the comments!

Highlighter – Used for marking up academic papers I am reading. I’ll usually carry one or two with me but I keep several different colors at home for heavy markup. The colors I like carrying on me are odd colors, not yellow, like green and pink because they let my markups stand out from other peoples markups.

Sharpie – Used for marking up things that pens and highlighters can’t like metal, ceramics, and sleeping lab mates.

USB Drive – I don’t use it all that often thanks to free services like Google Drive and Dropbox but  everyone in a while when you don’t have access to other options these can really save you. For example like when you need to print out a final report that’s due in 15 minutes and the internet is down. (That example definitely hasn’t happened to me)

Letherman Skeletool – The Skeletool is a good all around multi-tool. It has a knife, pliers, wire cutters,/strippers, screwdriver (both flat an Philips), and a bottle opener.  It’s slim so its easy to carry without giving up a lot of functionality.

Timex Weekender Chrono – Useful for telling time if durring both meetings and tests when you cant check your phone. Taking a peek at your watch durring a meeting is unnoticeable unlike when you check your phone which can be considered rude.

TI-84 – The second most useful tool in my entire engineering education after a pen. I’ll often use the calculator instead of Matlab or Wolfram Alpha for doing homework that require simple computations just because I’m so familiar with it that I can operate it extremely quickly just from muscle memory.

Planner –  It’s useful for writing down assignment due dates and meetings. Everyone has a different way of organizing events/work an I find havving a written copy helps me visualize where everything is.

Muji Recycle Paper Bind Notebook – Useful for taking notes in meetings and they can fit in my back pocket

Allett Slim Bifold Wallet – It’s an ultra thin bifold wallet that I love. It’s so thin I never even notice it in my pocket. I can sit on it all day without being uncomfortable. My last one became worn out after two years and I bought another one immediately. I highly recommend them!

Keys –  For opening doors/stuff. Note: I just grabbed some unused keys for this pic and put them on a carabiner.

Google  Pixel – It’s taking the photo. Lately its mostly been used for snap chat

I spent nearly 20 years as a cook-then-sous-then-exec in fine dining kitchens. I've bought cheap knives, and I've bought expensive knives. I finally found my sweet spot split between Misono Swedish Carbon and Misono UX10s. I have a few different styles of knives in each, and they each have their ups and downs. The downside to either of those is that they're not exactly cheap (but you can spend way more if you're so inclined).

On the cheap side of things, this series of knives form Victorinox is probably the best value out there. For a home cook, these are absolutely bifl, but they're not exactly sexy.

My recommendation when anyone asks me a question like this is to go for the Mac Professional Series. They're fancy enough to be a little special, but not so special that you're afraid to use them. Full disclosure, I still use a Chef Series Mac 5.5" utility knife. In a professional kitchen, your utility knife gets so much more use than you'd imagine, so having a cheap one without the bolster is nice in case someone drops it in the fryer and kills the temper, or kicks it under the dish station etc. For home, I'd get the nice (pro series) version.

Anyway, for a first investment in nice knives, I'd go for an 8" chef's knife, dimples or not, it makes no real difference, and a 5.5" utility knife. The second addition would be 10-12" carving knife. Of course, a serrated bread knife and a small paring knife are necessary, but that's where those Victorinox knives I linked above are perfect.

I'm sure the bifl crowd here will crucify me for recommending stainless, but unless you're using your knives every day for hours a day, it's way too easy to get lazy and you end up with pitting and rust on all those fancy carbon knives, and that makes you less likely to use them.

For sharpening, get a 1000/6000 grit whetstone. When I was cheffing for a living, I hit the 6000 every day, and the 1000 once a week. Now, I cook dinner maybe 4 times a week, and I hit the 6000 once a month, and the 1000 like once or twice a year. Keeping the knives in cases helps with this. Drawers will kill the edge. Youtube has plenty of tutorials on how to use a whetstone and keep everything straight.

As far as "sharpening" steels go, it's nice having one around if you're doing a ton of knife work and need a quick touch up, but slapping a knife on a steel is not the same as sharpening it, and if you let the edge get truly dull (by hitting the steel instead of sharpening it), you'll have a bear of a time getting the edge true again.

Anyway, if you buy something made by an ancient Japanese craftsman who's older than the volcano he forges in, sure, it'll be cool and have fancy wavy lines. If you buy garbage it'll be garbage. Whatever you do, just know that nothing screams recent culinary school graduate than a Shun santoku.

note: I've written "you" a bunch in here. It's less pretentious than saying "one may sharpen..." and less clumsy than referring to your partner at all times . I hope you'll forgive me.

edit: tl;dr get the Macs

For the joke to work you need to see the product, here

Yeah, some things just aren't worth it haha

​

I would highly recommend these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

​

If you cut anything really strong or oddly shaped you can dull them pretty easily, but otherwise they cut really clean and easily and they're super sharp. I have pick up a bunch of these, mine are almost too dull to use now :(

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

Leatherman Squirt PS4 = pliers + scissors on a keychain-size tool

No, fuck that advice. Get a stone and learn how to use it. Those knife sharpening devices are ass and any chef worth his salt will tell you that.

Here's a good stone.

🅰️ AMAZON Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant by Wenger

> 87 implements
> 141 functions

****
^([ )[^PM](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=TSATPWTCOTTTADC "send a private message to this person")^( | )[^FAQ](https://goo.gl/forms/yZMJ5IHUeIMHGe7s2 "questions that I frequently ask")^( | society , community , progress | v0.30 ])

I love my Gerber Shard but that is pretty cool.

Flashlight: Jetbeam MK-1 ($19)

Knife: Kershaw Cryo ($30)

Pen: Zebra F-701 ($8)

Multi-Tool: Leatherman Squirt ($33)

Money Clip ($5)

Total: $95

Just checked Amazon, now they want $9,000 used!!

It's currently $29 on Amazon too.

For anyone looking to get into whetstone sharpening, just know that it's really not all that difficult.

A good starter stone is the Shapton Pro 1k which can be found on Amazon for just $36. It's a splash and go stone that doesn't require any soaking and it's a hard stone that doesn't dish fast.

While the 1k is a good starting point for any knife that isn't already a butter knife, the 320 grit would be necessary for turning that butter knife into a real knife again.

If you want something with more polish and a higher level of sharpness, the 5000 grit will offer a good deal of edge refinement without going too crazy. However, this is pretty much pointless for any knife under 60 HRC (a Wusthof is at 58 HRC which is pushing it) since that softer steel won't hold a 5k edge for very long at all.

These Kuromaku stones are real Shapton Pros, but those manufactured for the Japanese market. The versions for the western market have differently labeling printed on the stones, but are otherwise identical. Prices for Kuromaku Shaptons vary widly on Amazon so it's worth waiting for a deal, and only a few are actually available at these lower prices.

An even cheaper option is the King 1k/6k combination stone which is viable, but not something I usually recommend. It dishes fast, the 6k side is overkill for most home cooks, and from what I've heard using the stone isn't a particularly good experience.

If you would like to learn about sharpening in general, or how to do it, start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/chefknives/wiki/sharpening

And if you're looking for a knife or how to care for it, consider stopping by /r/chefknives!

Not sure if has a pitchfork, but you can probably build one.

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

Personally, I would just buy one decent knife for that price. The first set looks like it includes things I already own like a nice pen and mini tool, and the knives are so similar in the second set. I don't like assisted opening either. Just my 2 cents.

>The Wenger Giant Knife

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1541466169&sr=8-16&keywords=The+Wenger+Giant+Knife

Clockwise from top left:

OLPR Leather Minimalist Wallet

Nite Ize Steel Key Rack with Molle velcro strap and key ring

Attached to it are my 64GB Toshiba Flash Drive, Gerber Shard and keys.

Zebra Mini T-3 that I clip in the spine of my wallet

Fisher Space Pen Bullet

Generic lighter

Field Notes but in the dot-graph version

Military issue Victorinox Bantam, couldn't find black online

Nicron B10 Rechargeable Flashlight

Gerber Dime

First ever pocket knife, the Tac-Force Spring Assisted Knife

iPhone 8 Plus

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

• A card scraper. Do your research--they're tricky to sharpen, but they're miraculous things. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-5-Inch-474-125-0-80-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0001P0PHW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859293&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=bahco+card+scraper
  
• Baby's first hand saw: http://www.amazon.com/Tajima-Japan-JPR-SET-Rapid-Blades/dp/B0008KLNSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859464&sr=1-3&keywords=dozuki
  
  Clamps
  
  
• Amazon is a decent place to buy clamps unless you're into the HD/Lowe's arbitrage thing. There's good advice on what clamps you need here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-big-squeeze/
  
  Measuring/Marking
  
  
• A solid combination square like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-11H-12-4R-Combination-Square-Wrinkle/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407857853&sr=8-2&keywords=starret
  
• An inexpensive marking knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X201/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Your first festool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UKRNG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• I have some crown marking gauges from Amazon, but the jury's still out. I think I'm going to end up deciding that they're junk. They are cheap and will get you going, though.
  
  Sharpening Gear
  
  
• You can easily spend way more than $300 on a sharpening setup. Do your research. Most of the stuff you'll need can be found at Amazon.
  
• A good starting point sharpening stone: http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858723&sr=8-1&keywords=king+stone
  
• Training Wheels: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858827&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide
  
  Consumables
  
  
• Wood glue--TiteBond II is what "everyone" uses. TiteBond III is more waterproof and gives you a longer open time
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Mineral spirits
  
• Finishing supplies
  
  Safety Gear
  
  
• The best splinter removal tweezers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMYHA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Band aids: http://www.amazon.com/Band-Aid-Brand-Adhesive-Bandages-Comfort/dp/B0047ITQ42/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&srs=2582875011&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859147&sr=1-5&keywords=band+aid+sheer+strips
  
• Safety Glasses, Hearing protection (if you plan to use power tools), Respirator (if you plan to make dust), etc.
  
• Broom, dustpan, brush.
  

Professional Chef here.

First off, you really only need the chef knife. Butcher knife can do pretty much everything that the chef knife can do besides the detail work. It's going to come down to preference.

Second, BIFL quality of a knife is going to depend on what you're using it for. If you're just using a chef knife for your everyday knife in your own personal kitchen, then it could potentially last you for the rest of your life. If you're using it for commercial purposes then it's only going to last as long as 3-10 years depending on the quality of the knife due to sharpening.

Third, as for sharpening is concerned depending on what kind of metal you are working with and how often you use the knife, you're probably going to need to sharpen every month-3 months. I work in a commercial kitchen and I sharpen my knife every week at least, sometimes twice a week.

Most people will tell you that something like this works just fine for sharpening your knife, but I find that they don't hold an edge for very long and the quality of the edge is sub par. Personally I use this and it gets me a RAZOR sharp edge every time. If you can shave your arm with one pass then you did it right. Just watch some youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife using wet stones and you'll be a pro in no time.

Keep your knives sharp! A sharp knife may cut you easier, but it is safer than a dull knife. The reason being is the amount of PRESSURE you apply to the object your cutting. A sharp knife will give little resistance and wont need as much pressure as a dull knife. So if you do cut yourself it will be with very little pressure as opposed to SMASHING a dull knife into your flesh. It's a bad time, trust me.

Anyway, stay stafe, have fun, and enjoy your knives.

Mine is 1000 grit on one side and 6000 grit on the other. This is stone I have and it will get any knife you have plenty sharp. It does take a while to get the technique down though, but it's well worth it once you do. I used youtube to teach myself how to do it correctly.

https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480522993&sr=8-1&keywords=king+sharpening+stone

That's not a pocket knife, THIS is a pocket knife!

Amazon link for convenience.

The Customer Questions & Answers sections is equally entertaining:
> Question: Can it core a apple?
Answer: Of course it can, but the apple-corer blade is accessible only if you use it immediately after the bagpipe bladder stitch removal cumberbutton and before using the panda baby spoon.

> Question: can we see a photo of this knife in the closed position?
Answer: No. Unfortunately, closing the knife brings too much mass into one location causing the formation of a small black hole. This is not covered by the warranty.

> Question: Where is the Flugelhorn?
Answer: Right in between the warp drive and the creme brulee torch.

Leatherman Style PS

A few tips to help you out OP:

1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.
   
   
2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.
   
   
3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.
   
   
4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.
   
   
6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.
   
   edit:
   
   A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Flat-Tweezers-Electronic-Repair/dp/B00880EDIO/
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  
• Cotton swabs
  
  
• Compressed air can
  
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  

Sawyer Mini water filter. $20 Arguably the best lightweight backpacking filter available.
Also, the Leatherman Squirt is on my backpacking wishlist this year.

I like the Morakniv and firesteel ideas, and also:

• Wood/tablet/alcohol stove, $19
  
• AccuSharp knife sharpener, around $12
  
• Stainless steel cup that fits perfectly on bottom of Nalgene bottle (can be used for cooking), $9, an Equinox Bottle Bag, $11, a Survivor HK-106 knife w/ fire starter (clip point), $10, and a Nalgene bottle, $10 (pick 2-3 to stay under $30) are the start of a Nalgene bottle kit. That's not an ideal knife and may need sharpening but it is full-tang and I can confirm it fits inside a Nalgene bottle, which the Morakniv for example will not.
  
• The book Where There Is No Doctor, $25
  
• Perhaps a keyring for EDC featuring such things as a Streamlight Nano ($7), firesteel ($10), something like a [Kingston SE9 USB drive](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URLZTNU/ ($7), a universal handcuff key ($5), and a whistle ($8).
  
• A Leatherman Squirt PS4 (with pliers) for EDC, $30
  
• WaterBOB, $23
  
• Emergency hand-crank radio, $20+

The Ontario RAT has treated me well and is on Amazon for [$27] (http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375082849&sr=8-4&keywords=ontario+knives)

Definitely the Ontario Rat 1, in my opinion. Here's the link:

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2uBAwbHX4BTW9

You're new to the industry, and new to cooking. Quite frankly, your skills are at the point where you won't really have a huge preference one way or the other, and you won't perform any differently with a 50 dollars knife versus a 5000 dollar knife. Similarly, fancy whetstones, glass stones, sharpening systems, etc won't make a difference either.

Right now, get the basics. Good solid stuff that's relatively cheap so that you can figure out what you like, and don't like. You have 1300-1500 to spend-- Good. Save it for now. Industry doesn't pay much. Here's the basics to start you out that has the best bang for buck, and gives you some different styles and feels to try out, so that you can figure out what you'll eventually enjoy the most. If you want more information on any of the knives, let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000UAPQGS

This is a knife that's full tang, VG-10 steel(same as Shun), and has decent heat treat. Western style handle, with a westernized santoku Japanese style blade. At 60 bucks, it's a steal.

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Fibrox-45520-Frustration-Packaging/dp/B008M5U1C2

Ubiquitous western style knife. Steel is the same as the more expensive Wustofs, Mercers, and anything that claims to use "German Stainless Steel". It's all x50crmov15, with slightly different heat treats. Victorinox does it right.

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/kohawagy21.html

HAP40 high speed tool steel. This is the high tech stuff used in blade competitions. Japanese style handle, maintains a really sharp edge for a really long time. A little more expensive, but that kind of steel for that price is really, really worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Winco-Chinese-Cleaver-Wooden-Handle/dp/B001CDVXUK/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485154695&sr=1-7&keywords=cleaver

Look, a cleaver's a cleaver. You don't need fancy steels or anything-- You just need a whole lotta force behind a whole lotta steel. Hone and sharpen often, and this'll do great for you.

Speaking of cleavers, though...

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/cckcleaver2.html

Chinese cleavers are awesome. They're not actually cleavers though, don't use them on bones and the like-- They're the Chinese version of the all purpose chef knife or gyuto knife. Chinese chefs are expected to be able to do everything with this knife, from fileting to tourne to peeling to chopping to brunoise, so they're actually quite versatile. Speaking of which-- This also fills in for the Japanese Nakiri role. Tons of fun to use.

https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485154779&sr=1-1&keywords=king+1000+6000

This is a fantastic stone, one that Master Bladesmith Murray Carter uses. I ran a knife sharpening service, and this is the one I used for most knives as well. Since you won't have to deal with weird recurves and tantos and nightmare grinds and the like that can show up on folding knives, this will serve you very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WFU8/ref=twister_B010SQ9IXK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is in case you get some gnarly chips on any knives. This'll get it out quick and easy. Bonus-- Use it to flatten and maintain your King stone. This and the King stone is all you really need for sharpening. You can easily get a shaving edge with it.

Besides those, stick with what you got in the Mercer kit for the specialty knives. You really don't need fancy versions of those. You also really don't need a serrated utility knife at all. In the professional kitchen, the three knives that saw the most work were the overall chef knife(even for fileting and some light butchering), the 4 dollar Victorinox paring knife(quick and easy to sharpen), and the Mercer tourne knife.

Buying all this will amount to 431.31, giving you a combination sharpening stone, a flattening/reprofiling stone, and 5 fun knives of all different kinds to play with, at a fraction of the cost. You'll notice I didn't put any Super Blue or White #1 steels in there-- That's because A) They're more difficult to take care of, and B) They're really overpriced for what they are, simply because their "japanese" moniker makes people think they're super laser swords from a land of secret steels(they're not). The HAP40 steel beats these steels in pretty much every category.

Hope you found it helpful! Have fun with whatever you decide to choose.

I use this one.

The Bacho Laplander seems to be popular with outdoor enthusiasts. I don't own one myself so I can't speak to it's quality. I do think it would be better off with a high-vis paint job but otherwise it seems pretty solid.

The saw I use is from the gardening section at my local hardware store. They usually have these $5 'gardening kit' sales that include a foam pad, pruning shears and a folding saw. Coincidentally, the exact same folding saw that's on 'sale' for $14 two isles over.

I can't recommend the Kershaw Leek enough. It comes factory sharp enough to shave, it's super slim, and it looks classy as hell.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What type of list would you be looking for? I have a spreadsheet with all the Knipex tools I own, and my wish list of tools I'm looking to buy when I find them at the right price, but I don't think that spreadsheet would be that useful to most people.


I work with shielded cable all the time at work. The Knipex Snips are great at stripping them. You can get the Knipex snips for about $20 if you look around. Check out the design on them and you'll see the little indention at the base of them which makes them really good at stripping stuff like shielded cable and Cat5/6.


for 18/2 or 22/4 shielded cable the #12 stripper slot on a regular pair of Klein strippers works really well. The Knipex automatic wire strippers are only designed for individual conductors, but they do a really good job of stripping every wire the exact same length which is really handy for terminating panels.


I have a pair of Irwin automatic strippers, and they do OK with stripping the jackets off cables, but overall I wasn't impressed with them and stopped carrying them at work. You might have good luck with them - they have good reviews.

These wire strippers right here. These things make stripping wires so freaking easy. I never had a proper set of wire strippers and would use Xacto knives and my fingernails prior to buying these. Now it takes a second and a half to strip a wire, no measuring or anything. Stick the wire in the thing, squeeze the thing, pull the thing, and you have a stripped wire. Highly, highly recommended.

The coolest things that I have personally bought (under $50 individually) are:

$43 4Sevens Preon Revo - single AAA flashlight(!), 82 lumens(!), excellent construction.

$12 Split Pea Lighter - world's smallest lighter.

$35 Leatherman Skeletool - lightweight, functional, stylish multitool. (Technically when I bought it a couple years ago it was $65. Still worth it!)

That's all I can think of for now. Can you tell that I was a Boy Scout? Also I like tiny things.

Leatherman Skeletool

There are several different versions with different tools, but i love that it has a built in clip to attach to a belt loop. Makes it easy to carry and pull out. I've used mine heavily for 2 years, and its still 100% functional. (worn paint, had to sharpen knife finally)

There is also this set with a scissors/file.

The only thing I can think of is 'TSA friendly' tools:
http://smile.amazon.com/Leatherman-831488-Style-PS-Multitool/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417968012&sr=1-1&keywords=tsa+multitool

I think the better option -because I advocate always having a blade on you- would be to remember to just leave the blade in your car, or ask for it back when you leave. I'm not sure how often you go through security checks or what their posture is either so that advice could be useless.

Victorinox makes a 'my first' pocket knife which has a rounded tip that will prevent stabbing. There's also the flight safe swiss army knife, the jetsetter if you don't want them to have a 'real' knife right away.

There's also the Leatherman Leap which has a user-installable knife so you can give them that part at a later date or remove it if it turns out they are irresponsible. And Leatherman has a flightsafe multitool too in the leatherman style

This kind of folding saw is great for camp-scale stuff. And a nice 4" fixed blade knife that you can baton with is all you need to split it. I've heard this is a good starter knife for bushcrafting but I haven't got to use mine yet.

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

Kershaw Skyline

To fix this spoon correctly, you will need a Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant. Be sure to read the comments of this knife for directions on how to fix this spoon, save a baby whale, and to become a country/western singer.

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• Kershaw G10 Hawk
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline
  
  
  
  ^Bot ^Comment ^- ^[ ^Stats ^& ^Feeds ^] ^- ^[ ^Charts ^] ^- ^[ ^Information ^for ^Moderators ^] ^- ^[ ^Live ^Image ^Feed ^]

Although the Instant is an alright knife, I believe that it is overpriced at $40 with a blade of 7Cr17Mov steel.

Kershaw Clash is about 20 bucks, made with better steel (8CR13MOV), assisted opening and also has lifetime warranty.

Kershaw Skyline at the price range of $35 has better steel (14C28N) than the Clash, assisted opening and the same warranty.

Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1DfJAb4HPQJ12

I use one of these. It holds up to 12 decks (though you need to buy 2 to get the correct compartments for that)

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CIbLBbZ1TXT9W

• ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  
• ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  
• ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  
• ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  
• ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  
• ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  
• ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  
• ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  
• ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^
  
  Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
  
  You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
  
  Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.

I was thinking the same thing. Do people not know that these exist? Moreover, how much easier they make your life? There's no substitute when the need arises.

And this will solve any zip tie problem in an instant

There's a Plano tool box where the related items are almost exclusively X-Wing ships.

Spray, let it soak in, repeat.

Leatherman Skeletool for about $60 and a Pelican 023500-0000-110 flashlight for about $30. It should be noted that those are prices for responsible people who don't lose them. I think I've bought the same leatherman 3 times now.

The Leatherman skeletool seems like it would suit your needs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XU9NXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517583057&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=skeletool&dpPl=1&dpID=31AzeWH8zbL&ref=plSrch

Just use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=twister_B01M3PL0CR?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

​

I used to have individual deck boxes for all my commander decks and switched them all to this. Fits up to 12 double-sleeved commander decks, or cut back to 11, and you have space for dice/tokens/etc.

I’ve always really liked the Stanley storage units:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NG3QBbBJF1XYS

Personally, I don't like hatchets. Too much room for error. I'd advise the Bahco.

I'd also consider the Sawyer for water filtration, as I think most water purification tablets taste nasty. If you are going to use them, bring some Crystal Light, or sweetened Kool-Aid or Gatorade to kill the taste.

Definitely need a map and compass, otherwise ... how do you know when you've reached your destination?

What are the Sharpies and the tampons for? How long is it supposed to sustain you? Are there any options to procure more food after the 4 days of rat bars run out?

I'd say that it needs work. 5/10? But these things really aren't quantifiable like that. Try it out for a weekend, and objectively analyze the deficiencies.

/$0.02

Here's a few things I've bought off Amazon that I've been really happy with:

Minus33 Merino Wool Day Hiker Sock

Magnesium Fire Starter

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw

Sawyer Products Mini Water Filtration System

Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade

Nalgene Translucent Wide Mouth Bottle With Blue Lid

Outdoor Products 3-Pack Ultimate Dry Sack

Rayovac Sportsman 22 Lumen 1AAA Headlight

Adventure Medical Kits Adventure First Aid 2.0

Suunto M-3 D/L Compass

Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porsche Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6cpxb4BSG38Q

This seems to be an inexpensive and popular choice. It's what I we with when starting a collection.

Leatherman Style PS

Swiss Army Jetsetter

Just because the don't have a blade though doesn't mean the TSA won't take them. TSA don't give a shit, TSA just take what they want.

That problem is so easy to solve too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Less than five bucks, flush-cut side cutters which will trim cable ties with no sharp edges whatsover.

Sometimes, cable ties are a fine tool for the job, just have to be used appropriately.

Peanut lighter (free shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGDD03E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9.FZxbNKDSH3W

Paracord 25 feet (free shipping w/ prime): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z1QP6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9aGZxb0JKWNVR

Flint rod (free shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP1HKDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fdGZxbCC651JQ

CRKT Eat N Tool (free shipping): https://amzn.com/B0030IRKHK

US military can openers (free shipping w/ prime): https://amzn.com/B005IDQW3S

Wire Saw (free shipping): https://amzn.com/B0018VCJTA

Gerber Shard (free w/ prime): https://amzn.com/B002ZK45IQ

Edit: More stuff

This might be the best 3$ you ever spend.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ

I use the Stanley 10 bin and 25 bin trays. They're also great for my loose Lego collection so I have a few spares and pull one for whenever I need one in the garage or in the house.

This isn't a perfect solution though. I had to build a rack in order to store all of these containers. Also, it is a 2 step process to get anything out: 1) remove the tray from the rack and 2) open the container to get what I need. I'm fine with this though because it is ultra portable and the 2 step method isn't too much of a hinderance. Also, this way the storage density is pretty high and I can keep a lot of stuff in a small space.

Links to the amazon pages for each product for easy access:

Gerber Dime

Gerber Shard

Gerber Shard

If opening bottles is a thing you need it for over a knife, which was not the case for me, I got rid of this tool as well.



Simple but it works

This is what I carry now, after ditching my shard as well because there's plenty of ways to open bottles and tweezers are crazy useful.

I carry an Opinel No 8 everywhere i go. i use it to cut food and light gardening work (trimming, pruning, cut twine to tie up tomatoes, etc). "everywhere" includes backpacking, and any kind of travel. it's short enough and no spring assist, so it doesn't conflict with local laws when i travel.

when i'm backpacking i also carry a small wire key ring with the following:

Key Ring

Leatherman Micra

Gerber Shard

Streamlight Nano

if i'm doing any kind of campfire, then i bring a mora companion to do any processing that i'll need.

Philosophy: spend as much money as you can on the best Big 3 you can. Leave worrying about shaving grams with titanium mugs and other small shit until you get bored and you budget is bigger. :)

Big 3: $610

• Tarptent double rainbow - $275
  
• Enlightened equipment - RevX 40 - $180
  
• ULA CDT - $135
  
• Thremarest Ridgerest SOlite (Torso length) - $20
  
  
  Cooking: $24.50
  
  
• Stanco Greasepot: $10
  
• Tritan LMF spork: $2
  
• Supercat stove: Free
  
• Aluminum foil windscreen: free +effort
  
• Reflectix pot cozy: $10 + effort
  
• Bic mini: $0.50
  
• Waterbottles: 2x 1L Kroger-brand generic smart water bottles: $2
  
  
  First Aid: $32
  
  
• Scentless Zinc oxide creme: $5
  
• Moleskins: $2
  
• Dr. Bronners unscented baby-mild soap: $5
  
• Band-aids: free
  
• Ducktape: free
  
• ibuprofen: free
  
• Imodium: free
  
• 100% DEET: $5
  
• sunscreen: free
  
• Aqua Mira tablets: $15
  
  Clothing: $64
  
  
• baseball cap: free
  
• bandana: free
  
• synthetic t-shirt from walmart: $5
  
• dri-ducks 100 wt fleece $32
  
• nylon gym shorts: free
  
• running shoes: free
  
• socks (2 pair): $27
  
• garbage bag poncho: free
  
  Other: $58
  
  
• headlamp: $35
  
• leatherman squirt: $23
  
  Total: $788.50
  
  base weight : ~10lbs
  

Start by carefully inspecting the sharpener. Then take it off of your keychain. Lastly you can toss it into the trashcan and go onto Amazon for a whetstone like this combination 1000/6000 grit waterstone. Make sure to do a bit of research on sharpening technique as well.

Those pull-through sharpeners remove an excess of metal and provide a subpar edge.

It is actually much better

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice start...it's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-ON8848-BRK-Rat-1/dp/B0013ASG3E/

The Ontario RAT Model 1 and the Byrd CaraCara 2 are worth looking at.

$100 to spend? Lets get him started out right!

Fixed blade knife and Saw for Bushcraft tasks:

Bahco has a combo kit with a Mora fixed blade knife and a folding saw for $28.50 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-LAP-KNIFE-Laplander-Folding-Multi-Purpose/dp/B008ZG8S0A

Folding Knife for food prep:

Add an Opinel #8 for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Opinel-Carbon-Blade-Folding-Knife/dp/B002SCUO04/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3OVY093ZE8FB9&keywords=opinel+no+8&qid=1573841922&sprefix=opinel%2Ctools%2C152&sr=8-4

or an Ontario RAT 1 for $25: https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ontario+rat+1&qid=1573842093&sr=8-1

Axe for fire prep:

Cold Steel Trail Boss fo $32: https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-CS90TA-BRK-Trail-Boss/dp/B001CZ9UY4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21DD9KF7WOYCB&dchild=1&keywords=cold+steel+trail+boss&qid=1573842210&sprefix=cold+steel+trail%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1

Total

That pretty much covers all things pointy and sharp to get him started in bushcraft for a grand total of $85.50

As he learns and develops more bushcraft skills he can upgrade when needed but this will get him started out with some solid gear.

Kershaw Blur

Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.

If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.

I picked up a bunch of cheap part drawers like these when they were on sale at a local store. Very easy to organize stuff if you have the desk space.

I use these to organize and store SMD components.

I use these enormously big-ass cabinetrys to store thru-hole components such as ICs in DIP packages.

So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.

So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.

Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.

Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.

In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.

I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.

First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

[Kershaw Scrambler] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04MOIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Kershaw Leek] (http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660BLKW-Folding-BlackWash-SpeedSafe/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHD47WR72RJ9HJVWCZN)

[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Voyager-Tanto-Plain/dp/B00322LQB0/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417535788&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+voyager)

[Fenix PD35 2014] (http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-PD35-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536075&sr=1-1&keywords=fenix+pd+35)

[Nitecore SENS AA version]
(http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Flashlight-Active-Dimming-Lumens/dp/B008J4CHNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536301&sr=1-2&keywords=nitecore+sens)

Zebra F-301

[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (http://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Cahier-Journal-Pocket-Ruled/dp/8883704894/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536675&sr=1-1&keywords=moleskine+small)

[Leatherman Skeletool] (http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-830846-Skeletool-Multitool/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417536920&sr=8-1&keywords=skeletool)

[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (http://www.amazon.com/AAA-Piece-Commuter-First-Aid/dp/B000SL0R9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417537142&sr=8-2&keywords=first+aid+kit)

Larger car first aid kit

EDIT: aspace

List!

Watch: Luminox Navy Seal, it was a gift from my dad on my 18th birthday

Organizer: Hitch & Timber Runt 2.0 with a Wet Ones hand wipe in the back pocket

Chapstick: Burts Bees Vanilla Bean with electrical tape on it so its easier to pull out of the organizer

Flashlight: RovyVon A8U with a random paracord thing i made

Wallet: Maxpedition LPW

Pen: Pilot G2

Mulitool: Leatherman Style PS

Keys: Linwnil belt key hanger with a set of 2 KeySmart MagConnects, with a sim card remover too

> Klein Victorinox

In a few years there are knives made just for kids, though not school appropriate:

Opinel: https://www.amazon.com/Opinel-OP01698-Round-Safety-Knife/dp/B07MBK89TX/ref=sr_1_1
SAK: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-First-Knife/dp/B001AXCU5Y/ref=sr_1_5

And there are bladeless tools made for travel:

Leatherman: https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Style-PS-Multitool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=sr_1_2
Gerber: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Travel-Bladeless-Knife/dp/B00TOJCDM6/
SOG: https://www.amazon.com/SOG-PowerLock-Traveler-Multi-Tool-S61TR-CP/dp/B00T0UR5SG/

>brushes

If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.

>mats,

You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.

>thinners

The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.

>cutters

Try these

>etc

You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming

Airbrushing

Object Source Lighting

Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!

Part I
------


------

So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.

• Wire. Start with a mix of different gauge Kanthal.
  
  
• Wire cutters.
  
  
• Ceramic tweezers. These are for adjusting your coils once they are installed.
  
  
• A coiling jig. You can use anything from a nail to a precision screwdriver to a syringe, however I very strongly recommend this set.
  
  
• Cotton. I've tried every brand of cotton out there, they are all the same. Just go to your local CVS/Walgreens/Whole Foods/Walmart/etc and pick up a big bag of cotton balls, they will last you a life time for about $5. Seriously, a life time.
  
  
• [Optional] Ohm meter. This is only optional because you are using a regulated device, it is required for mech mods. The Kanger will not fire if your coil is bad or too low of a resistance (about 0.4 ohms in my experience).
  
  Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.
  
  ------
  
  Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.
  
  ------
  
  Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.
  
  --------
  
  Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.
  
  
  To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).
  
  
  Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.
  
  [Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).
  
  -------
  
  Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.
  
  Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.
  
  Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).
  
  -------
  
  Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.
  
  With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).
  
  -------------
  
  Permalink to Part II: https://www.reddit.com/r/RBA/comments/3xo2lv/rba_coil_question_newbie/cy6qbta
  
  edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.

For reference, this was the Kershaw Leek 3" blade

It’s a Stanley professional organizer! Here’s the link

For my money I'd take a folding saw over a pocket chainsaw any day. The chainsaws take a lot more work to use, and there are a lot more potential points of failure. Also at least in regards to that chainsaw, it's heavier than a folding saw. The biggest downside is price, although this one is on sale right now and isn't that pricey: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW

You can't go wrong with the Laplander, it's pretty much the standard for folding saws.

I actually don't carry a hatchet, I carry a folding saw and a heavy duty knife. I plan on batoning with the knife if I need to split things.

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pLeUzbTR79YD2

get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:

-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).

-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.

-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.

-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.

I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ thumb hole deployment

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0 - speedsafe

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E - thumbstud

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8 - flip

Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).

These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

• The best thermos you've ever seen
  
  
• A super high quality door-hung b-ball hoop (you'll want to buy a nerf ball with it, the one it comes with is dangerous to valuables in the room)
  
  
• One of the best board games ever made
  
  
• A classy and useful EDC knife (there are lots of options on this front, /r/knifeclub has great recommendations)
  
  Check out my sub /r/everymanshouldhave for more recommendations like this. It's not super active of late, but it has some great suggestions if you look at the history

Ontario RAT 1.

Took me a while to find a better quality knife.

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

Spyderco, Kershaw, benchmade are all quality knives with kershaw being on the lower end. For an every day carry, I love my kershaw skyline, http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408630557&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

It's relatively cheap, good blade style, light, solid steel.

Here are some affordable and extremely high quality whetstones. I recommend getting at least the 320# and 1000# or 2000#. The $2-3 whetstones will be of shitty quality, not something I'd be happy to use on a kitchen knife.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004D2GCR6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TPFT0G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TPH8YG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

• Watch: Fossil Neutra Chronograph with Fossil Brown Strap
  
• Wallet: Nomatic Minimalist Wallet
  
• Phone: iPhone 8 with Speck Case
  
• Gun: Springfield XDS 9mm with 3.3 inch barrel
  
• Holster: Bradford Tactical Summit Series
  
• Knife: Benchmade Mini Griptilian
  
• Multi-tool: Leatherman Skeletool CX
  
• Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream
  
• Keys: Gerber Shard Multi-tool

I bought this a while back. Pretty cheap as well.

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

I've owned the Kershaw G10 Hawk ($15) and the Kershaw Skyline ($34).

Both are nice knives, I consider the G10 an excellent light use knife because it is is light and small. The thumb stud is hard to get purchase on, I took a file and cut a groove in the handle so I could get at it easier, very easy to do.

The Skyline is similar, larger blade, they'll sharpen it for you if you mail it in (I think for free, besides postage), no steel liners in the handle, very easy to open (flipper).

Amazon has a stone for 30 bucks. It's perfect. It comes with a stand and a case, is great for sharpening both western and Japanese steel, looks beautiful and doesn't break the bank. The brand is called a king stone or something like that. It stands up really well to professional use. My sous even dropped his and one side cracked in half but it still works beautifully.

http://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O

Just take a look at "Customer Questions & Answers" of this monster!

I would suggest one of these. No matter what activity you do that day, you should be covered with that.

Sooooooo. This is a thing: http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/product-reviews/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_paging_btm_2?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=2#R2INQN5F3BOWU2

Left to Right, mostly:



Green Cards - I switch this out with other cards pretty regularly, but it matched today. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESWPAKU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_R-0TDbZEN6C0N )



Slim Wallet - It's super thin and it attaches to my phone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4J55NV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9msGDb54PTKM2 )



Watch - It's durable and in my opinion doesn't look too bad for the price. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KYJAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BosGDbN06048V )



Wireless Earbuds - They are dated so they aren't the best anymore, but they are still pretty good. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07582VVJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QnCDDbV5X5EQY )



Multitool - It doesn't have a knife so I take this to school. It's not the best, but it does small things great. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Rc1TDbRPMMDB0 )



Flashlight - For the size, it is really bright. It doesn't last forever, but it is rechargeable. I recommend it for something small. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQRJLDP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6g1TDb65T465P )



Knife - This sub knows this knife. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Benchmade-Bugout-AXIS-Lock-Knife--98607 )



Necklace - Totally normal carbon fiber dog tag. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Panchenko-Dog-Tag-Folder--29966 )


If anyone has any questions about any of this stuff, leave a comment and I'll do my best to respond. To clarify, the knife goes in my pocket and I put on the necklace after school. 

Thanks for taking the time to check out my post! Have a good rest of your day everyone!

I've been cut by many zipties.

CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T20TBb4J30J3A

To leave them flush. Everyone who comes after will thankyou

For the sprues you need some actual sprue cutters

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n2UWBbBM7Y938

Nothing much more expensive than those as you really shouldn't run into a need for hard jobs from them

Should also consider some mini files

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MHF415/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b4UWBb9P1BYBP

Something that really let you get at small angles, ideally you do these things before glueing but can be done after.

Doing everything with the exacto is definitely dangerous, and theres not often a need to put your hands in that much danger.

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

I have 6 of these: Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qf4fzbJNF7ZWV

These self adjusting wire strippers are pretty fantastic:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA

Leatherman Skeletool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XU9NXW

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

I use a Plano 5231 for my tournament box.

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425779123&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

2 Level Plano container has plenty of compartments up top for tokens, asteroids, damage decks galore. As well as flat ships like X-Wings etc, bottom level deep enough to hold YTs and Decimators with ease, as well as pilot cards, loadouts, and taller ships, like Ties and B-Wings

First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.

WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

I have about 5 of these

Inspired by this design with very few changes.

This is a wort/water pumping box that shields the pump from the elements/spills and allows you to use a simple switch button to turn the pump on and off instead of having to plug/unplug it to power cycle it. It also protects the pump head/pump body from getting damaged because I'm clumsy. It also provides 2 extra GFCI outlets for you to plug in a computer or anything else as needed.

Box/pump:

• Stainless head Center Inlet Pump 3/4" Inlet x 1/2" outlet - Chugger pumps - $160
  
• Toolbox Harbor Freight - $15
  
• 1-7/8" bi metal hole saw to make hole for charger inlet - Ace Hardware - $8
  
• 15-amp 125-vold black charger inlet - Amazon - $11 - this has gone up significantly since I bought it
  
• 15 amp weather resistant tamper resistant GFCI outlet - Amazon - $20
  
• Stainless Wall plate - Amazon - $4
  
• Illuminated Maintained Contact Pushbutton Switch, 22mm 120/240V- Auber Instruments - $12 - Light comes on when button is pressed & switches power to surge strip on. Shiny. Pretty. 600x better than a wall switch.
  
  
  Fittings for pump:
  
  
• 1/2" stainless hex nipple - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" stainless NPT 90 degree elbow - Bargain Fittings
  
• 3/4" stainless NPT x 1/2" reducing coupling - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" Stainless NPT 3 piece ball valve - Bargain Fittings
  
  Had on hand:
  
  
• Irwin 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips - These things are awesome and if you do any wiring projects, they save tons of time
  
• Power strip - Looks like this one
  
• White, black, and green 14ga electrical wire
  
• Spade connectors
  
• Electrical Tape
  
• Linesmans pliers/Screwdrivers/adjustable wrenches/circuit tester/power drill/drill bits
  
• Step drill bits - Harbor Freight - Not sure how long these will last, but they've worked so far
  
• Teflon tape
  
• 1/4"x6"x10" scrap wood
  
• 3 Small bolts/3 nuts/6 washers - This part was a mess. First I tried wood screws, then the bolts I had were too long, then I cut those bolts down and I couldn't get the nut on the bolt, then the wood I mounted the pump on was full toolbox length & I couldn't get it back in the toolbox so I had to cut it, then the bolt heads on the underside of the board made the pump unstable.
  
  Hoses:
  
  
• 12' 1/2" ID Silicon tubing cut into 2 6' pieces
  
• 2xStainless Steel Male Disconnect
  
• 2xStainless Steel Female Disconnect - I've bought these from morebeer & midwestsupplies & while they are slightly different in appearance, they both work interchangeably.
  
• 4xHose clamps
  
• 4x1/2" NPT Female x 1/2" hose barb
  
  Build Steps:
  
  

1. Drill a hole using the bimetal hole saw where you want to run your plug from the wall to the toolbox.
   
2. Cut out a hole where you want your GFCI outlet to go. I used a dremel, it doesn't really matter what you use.
   
3. Line up your gfci outlet and plate how you want them & drill holes so you can screw the plate -> GFCI -> box to secure it.
   
4. Drill a 7/8"/22.5mm hole using a step bit or punch an appropriate size hole where you want your power switch to go.
   
5. Cut a small 1/4" x6"x whatever length you want bit of wood to mount the pump on.
   
6. Drill appropriate holes using a step bit where you want them for your pumps outlet/inlet.
   
7. Mount the top half of the switch. Make sure you line it up so it's easy to wire the bottom half & attach it to the mounted top part.
   
8. Remove back rubber piece from charger inlet. Cut 3 wires (one each: black, white, green) long enough to reach from your charger inlet to the line on the GFCI outlet. Strip ~1/2" off each end of the wire. Insert into appropriate colored hole on back of charger inlet and screw them in tight.
   
9. Unscrew metal band from back of charger inlet. Insert into hole you drilled in step 1, screw band on to tighten and feed all 3 wires through rubber piece & slide rubber piece on back of inlet.
   
10. Screw Hot (black) to line Hot side (Usually gold screws), screw Neutral (white) to line neutral side (Usually silver screws), and Ground (green) to ground screw on GFCI outlet.
    
11. Cut plug off of surge protector & strip back outer sheath to expose 3 wires inside. Now it's time to wire up your switch to provide power to the surge protector.
    
12. Cut a black wire long enough to go from the Hot Load side of the GFCI outlet to the bottom of the switch. Strip 1/2" of insulation off both ends. Crimp a spade terminal on one side, screw the other side into the Hot Load side of the GFCI. Hook the spade side into the post labeled 23 on the switch.
    
13. Now you'll need to do some splicing. I used compression sleeves, but feel free to do it however you want. The Neutral (white) wire from the surge strip needs to be split. Strip the end on the surge protector wire, cut and strip 2 white wires, long enough to reach the switch and GFCI outlet and splice them together with the surge strip wire. Crimp a spade terminal on one and hook it up to X1 on the switch. Hook the other wire up to the Neutral Load side of the GFCI outlet.
    
14. Cut 2 Hot (Black) wires long enough to be able to reach the switch from the end of the surge strip, strip the ends, and splice them together with the hot (black) wire coming from the surge strip. Crimp spade connectors on the ends of both wires. Hook one spade onto X2 on the switch & the other onto 24.
    
15. Screw the ground (green) wire from the surge strip onto the ground post on the GFCI (You have 2 wires on the ground on the GFCI now, right?).
    
16. Attach the bottom half of the switch to the top half. It just snaps in place.
    
17. Put your fittings on your pump & mount it and the wood it's sitting on to the toolbox by drilling holes through the wood/bottom of the toolbox & using bolts/nuts. In mine, I only used 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump base & 1 additional one to secure it to the bottom of the box.
    
18. Screw the GFCI/outlet cover into the box.
    
19. Plug your pump into the surge protector.
    
20. Close everything up, apply electrical tape where appropriate. The light on the switch will come on when pressed & anything plugged into the surge strip will get powered (the pump will start). The GFCI outlet has power with a small indicator light that tells you it's properly grounded as soon as the box is plugged in.
    
    Switch overview in brief:
    
    

• X1 - Neutral load from GFCI -> X1 & surge protector
  
• X2 & 24 - Hot from surge protector
  
• 23 - Hot load from GFCI
  
  Note about using step bit: It kicks out pretty hard when you move between steps. My wrist hurts today from it binding up a bit between steps and torquing my wrist.
  
  I did submit this yesterday, but the link that imgur provided was giving 404 errors when you viewed it, so I deleted that post & resubmitted.

I'm a big fan of the Leatherman Skeletool.

You can get it relatively cheaply if you look around online a bit.

It's not full of stuff you will never use. It's got a nice sized blade, reliable pliers, and a solid carabiner clip (that's also a bottle opener) to keep it from going anywhere.

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

yeah, buy one of these instead.

I haven't had an issue with these deck boxes either and I've kept some decks in them for almost 10 years. If I end up dropping one and cracking it I'm only out a couple of bucks rather than $10+.

I transport up to 12 decks in the Stanley Organizer (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0) like so: Decks for Magic Fest Las Vegas https://imgur.com/a/Q65Iqvz

If I only want to take up to 4 decks those clear plastic deck boxes easily fit into the Ultimate Guard Arkhive: https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guard-UGD10767-Arkhive-Standard/dp/B079T8J6V1

I bought two of the 10-compartment versions so I can have all deck-sized trays in one box, but upon receiving it I noticed you can actually fit the nice crystal commander boxes in place of the yellow compartments, so you should be fine just buying one and replacing the double-size trays with those.

Everyone has already made great suggestions for your current collection so I'm just going to add a suggestion for the future if your collections expands. I have 22 decks. For a collection of that size, all those individual boxes are a pain, get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend the Victorinox Fibrox, it performs well, it's comfortable and it's very durable. If you find the Fibrox handle too ugly, they offer the same blade but with a rosewood handle.

Care wise, touch up the edge with a hone to ensure it performs the best it can before you begin preparing food. Eventually however the edge will wear down, at which point you will need to sharpen it. For this I recommend the Shapton Kuromaku 1000, for guidence on how to use a whetstone check this playlist out.

The whetstone itself will also need to be maintained, as you use it you will wear it down unevenly and it will need to be flattened. Most people use a diamond plate but there is a more cost effective option that I use which is lapping the stone using SiC powder on glass, which is done like this (be aware however, that this method is MUCH louder and a bit messier than lapping with a diamond plate).

If all of this sounds like too much and you want a more simple care solution then you can get by very well by just using a ceramic sharpening rod. It combines the ability to touch up the edge quickly before use with the ability of a whetstone to remove material from the blade.

I got by with just a ceramic rod for a long time, but eventually bought whetstones when I wanted more control/better long term maintenance.

Link!

From left to right:


TAC Force TF-705GY Knife

WizGear 3-in-1 Stylus Pen w/ Flashlight

Streamlight 88061 ProTac 1L-1AA Dual Fuel Ultra Compact Flashlight

Bic Lighter

Czech Pipe Tool

Streamlight 73001 Nano Light

Gerber Shard

Silicon Power 32 GB Flash Drive

Glock 43

N82 Tactical Pro Tandem Holster

Polo Bi-fold Wallet

Sony Earbuds

Nexus 6P with Spigen Case and Popsocket

CakCity Sport Watch

1. Spyderco Tenacious Folding Knife, G-10 Black
   
2. NiteCore SRT7 LED Flashlight
   with Stainless Steel Aggressive Crenulated Bezel Fit for Nitecore
   
3. STAR WARS x NIXON Boba Fett Unit SW Watch
   
4. Leatherman Tread Black Bracelet
   
5. Samsung Galaxy S5 (G900) Spare Battery
   
6. Coach Wallet - Got as gift, couldn't find much info. Burt's Bees lip balm and Jack Daniels Zippo.
   Keychain
   
7. Kingston Digital DataTraveler SE9 64GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive
   
8. Tile (Gen 2) - Phone Finder. Key Finder.
   
9. Gerber Shard Keychain Tool

So this is what I have with me usually when going to work. Which is a 1h journey by high speed train, crossing an international border.

• The large knife is a Spyderco Native.
  
• And there is another Spyderco hiding in there too.
  
• The tiny flashlight is a Lenser K1
  
• The small flashlight is, I think, a Fenix
  
• 16 GB Thumbdrive
  
• iPhone 5S
  
• Beyerdynamic iDX 160 iE earbuds
  
• eVic Supreme eCigarette with a Nautilus Aspire tank
  
• A Schneider eXtra Document Pigment Pen
  
• A lightning cable
  
• Victorinox SwissTool Spirit III
  
• CRKT Eat N Tool
  
• Leatherman Squirt PS4
  
• A Victorinox quick-release key ring, released
  
• NiteIze key holder, keys, car key
  
• Bellroy Wallet
  
• Plasters Travel Kit
  
• Passport
  
• Maxpedition Pouch (and another, the MaxPedition EDC not shown)
  
  Link to highres picture What addition would compliment this EDC?

Descriptions with links

1. Moleskin mini-notebook.
   
   
2. Zebra F-301 Bold: Notebook and pen get dropped into my shirt pocket. On weekends, whether they come along is completely dependent on whether my shirt has a shirt pocket.
   
   
3. Seiko 5 SNK793: Just got this last week actually, but I really like it. I had a Hamilton Jazzmaster before and, while a quality piece and I love the style, the case was just too big/heavy for my liking. I found myself wearing my Timex weekender on a NATO strap more and more. This has a very similar case size, although slightly thicker/heavier due to automatic movement. Something classy/understated enough for work.
   
   
4. Maratac Copper AAA: I really love this thing. This is not the newest version (rev 3), so it only has low/high, but that's all I really need. Feels very solidly made, I have dropped it numerous times and it has nary a mark. Despite the exterior being solid copper, it isn’t as heavy as I thought it would be and I never even notice it in my pocket, even in dress pants. I leave the clip on so I can set it on my desk/counter and not have it roll off, but often don’t bother to clip it to my pocket. Sometimes I’ll clip it to my coin pocket in jeans but usually just leave it in my right pocket with my keys. I don’t know what to say other than that I really love this thing.
   
   
5. Leatherman Squirt ps4: Very small, disappears into my pocket. Even in dress pants at work, I don't feel this weighing them down at all.
   
   
6. Keysmart with 2 apartment keys: The rivets tend to come loose, which is a little annoying. May throw some Loctite or something on the threads to keep them be. Otherwise, I like it.
   
   
7. Nexus 4: Love this phone. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon. Unless they come out with a phone that will bake me cookies or dispense coffee, the only reason I'll move on is that this one dies.
   
   
8. SOG Fielder: SOG Fielder. Just like guns, black means you obviously want to kill people but any kind of wood stock/handle means you probably just have it for utility. /s I actually really like this knife. Very classy, feels good in the hand, good weight. I get lots of compliments on it.
   
   
9. Crappy wallet from Wal-mart or something
   
   
10. Springfield Xds 3.3 in 9mm in a Crossbreed minituck
    

• Love this pistol. Fun to shoot at the range and feels great in the hand. Well built, well balanced. So far, nearly 2k rounds in, no FTFs, no jams, no light strikes, nada. Trigger is a little stiff, but that kind of comes with the territory for a gun designed for CCW. I ordered the PRP trigger kit to lighten it a bit. Also, I’m probably going to have night sights installed soon. Nothing wrong with the stock ones, I just want night sights :).
  
  Minituck holster is great. I hiked 10 miles in the White Mountains last weekend and hardly noticed this setup at all. Will most likely go with Crossbreed for future holsters. I can successfully tuck in a shirt around the gun if need be with this one. (I do not carry at work because my employer does not allow it)
  

I've got roughly 3lb's of chessex dice; I use this to store them all at this point. But thank you for the offer. :)

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

Oh fun! $500 is a good amount to work with. I am going to assume he has absolutely nothing as you said full kit.

This folding saw is just awesome, and on sale! I've had one for many years. About $22.

This Knife is a lot more heavy duty than the Moras people will inevitably recommend (not that there is anything wrong with them). It's also a lot more expensive. I think it would make a nice gift. Also on sale. $104.

A pot $15.

A Silnylon tarp $63.

Gotta have paracord $10

There are a lot of firesteels out there but this one was uber cheap and looks just like the one I've had for years. >$2.

I would HIGHLY recommend a small forest of Hultafors, Wetterlings, or Gransfors Bruks make. I couldn't find a good link for them on Amazon. They'll be about $150

All told that list(including and axe) is about $360 before tax and shipping) Obviously a pack to put it would top it all off and bring you pretty close to $500 mark. It's just too personal a choice and I can't begin recommend one.

What stuff if any does he have already? A blanket or sleeping bag could be a good choice. A small alcohol stove too.

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from (www.bushcraftusa.com) because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is https://bushcraftoutfitters.com/coyote-tarp-10x10/ which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxtHJm51NPY&t=


So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00gwQ4z_nQQ&t and the following links for the items. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Ozark%20Trail%2018-Ounce%20Stainless%20Steel%20Cup
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Adventure-Camp-Cook-Set/16784406
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-9-5-Round-Frying-Pan/49332895


Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Super-Ultralight-Portable-Folding-Aluminium-alloy-Cot-Camping-Tent-Bed/112355265955?hash=item1a28e54da3:g:-PUAAOSwTM5Y365i:rk:2:pf:0


And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_sp_web_6501052011
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540606867&sr=8-1&keywords=Bacho+Laplander
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X7-Hatchet-Inch-378501-1002/dp/B0002YTO7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540607032&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiskars+X7+Hatchet+14+Inch%2C+378501-1002
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-2-5-Drilled-Ferrocerium-Ferro-Rod-Steel-Flint-Fire-Starter-w-Lanyard-Hole/131485475489?hash=item1e9d2522a1:rk:4:pf:0


And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-20-Sleeping-Bag-20-Degree-Down/253894865275?epid=1152349824&hash=item3b1d50317b:m:mFpUvLXnvtZZETXdugDHwvw:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-0-Sleeping-Bag-0-Degree-Down/253375355468?epid=28012067594&hash=item3afe591a4c:m:mCrEnOYV72CJ257e08pGR4Q:rk:2:pf:0


Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.


Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L https://outdoorvitals.com/products/rhyolite-60l-lightweight-internal-frame-backpack1
________________________________________

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USGI-Military-Issue-2-Man-Canvas-PUP-TENT-w-Poles-Stakes-Complete-VGC/392111853275?hash=item5b4bb00edb:g:JEQAAOSw~jJarA5E:rk:1:pf:0 Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.


I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Therm-a-Rest-Z-Lite-Sol-Ultralight-Foam-Backpacking-Mattress/132801349129?epid=1900010560&hash=item1eeb93c609:rk:1:pf:0 as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
______________________________________
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.


Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

Takes a fool to buy it from the manufacturer's website.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413863612&sr=1-1&keywords=kershaw+leek

I got it for ~30 a few years ago

Clearing things up a bit here, what folks are trying to do is:

A) Not be rude and say that's a garbage knife. The Golden Rule of Knives as far as I'm concerned is that the best knife you have is the one you have on you when you need it. If you have nothing else - high five - that'll do.

B) If you like the skull pattern and whatnot, that's awesome - whatever floats your boat. Most knives you'll see posted here aren't as gaudy or 'mall ninja' (see /r/mallninjashit for an idea of what that means). Knives like that though generally tend to be cheap in both the materials used and the QC for the finished product.

C) There are much better knives you could purchase for $35. Where did you even find that for $35? I wasn't able to find it on Amazon for that price and, relative to what I was seeing listed there, that knife should be ~<$20.

The Spyderco Tenacious is $35 from Amazon right now and is a great starting knife. Some options from Kershaw include the Leek, Skyline or a variety of other models. Someone also mentioned the Ontario Rat 1 which I don't have experience with myself, but is a widely loved knife at the price point. You can also check the $0-100 suggested knife guide for more options.

TL;DR: I don't want to make you feel bad for having that knife, but the $35 could have gotten you better steel, ergonomics and end product quality spent elsewhere.

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CHANLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407121452&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1407121786&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

Dat G19. Big enough to be a real gun, small enough to pack everywhere.

You need a better knife, though. What's "expensive" to you? $27? $35? Another one for $35

Ontario RAT 1
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374018377&sr=8-1&keywords=ontario+rat+1

Get a Kershaw Blur in s30v steel..

If you are OK with buying brand new, a few popular options here are some suggestions with Amazon (USA) links:

• Gerber Dime
  
• Leatherman Style CS
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• Victorinox Classic SD
  
• Victorinox Tinker
  
• Gerber Shard
  
  There are many other popular "solid state" keychain tools like the Shard out there, but I did not want to list out many of those.

T-molding. You need to cut "V" notches to go around an outside corner like in that photo. To go around an inside corner, you need slits. No need for a special notching tool (they are very expensive), you can do everything with a cheap pair of wire clippers like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

Use a rubber mallet to tap it into the slot.

I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.

With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).

• Light: Thrunite TN12 neutral white - $49.95
  
• Knife: Kershaw Skyline - $39.78
  
• Wallet: Alpine Swiss Passcase Bifold - $9.99
  
  Total: $99.76

For your money, there's nothing better to start with than a King 1k/6k combo stone. I personally hate long soaking stones (splash and go is the way to do it imo), but it has fantastic feedback and lets you practice/develop your muscle memory on the cheap.

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

Swiss Army Knives? Buy one for $1371 and it replaces all 228 different tools around your house, eliminating the need for a toolbox.

Now whether it will save you time actually trying to find what you need, is a different matter.

Hold my beer.

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

If you're under 18 YO you're only allowed to carry the Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife

My EDC

• Kershaw- Skyline in black

• Keys

• Victorinox SAK- Tinker

• Streamlight 73001 Nano Light

• The Ridge- Front Pocket Wallet

• iPhone 5 and OtterBox Defender Case

Been pretty happy with Kershaw knives as my everyday carry; using the Kershaw Skyline at the moment and it's lasted a few years with minimal maintenance.

Stopped carrying multi-tools in the brewery a long time ago. They weigh a ton, cost a lot, and are usually a poor substitute for the tool I really need. If I really need a pair of pliers/screwdriver/wire stripper, I just walk my happy ass over to the tool chest and get the right tool for the job.

For $120 and two knives, there is the omnipresent starter option - the Tojiro DP line.

I'd start with the gyuto or the santoku. They overlap for the larger tasks and its really more preference on the shape. They both are too thin and the steel is too brittle to cut bones or hard vegetables (pumpkin/squash) with (which your Wusthof can take care of) but will go through veg and protein pretty easily.

Then you have budget left over for the petty, which is kind of like a long thin paring knife. Good for smaller tasks or things that need delicate tip work.

you might even have some budget left over to pick up a stone. This is a popular beginner option.

Edit: The other option is MAC knives. Same shapes apply

Don't waste time with those sharpening systems. Buy two good quality whetstones, a 1000 grit and a 6000 grit and learn to use them. It's not difficult and the result is so much better. While not the best around, this is a really good start and even cheaper than the Lansky system.

I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.

Foursevens Maelstrom XM18,Wenger 16999,AH-64 =)

Here's a good one if you're looking for something simple and low price.

Here you go

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0 I love this thing.

I have one of these that I store a lot of my decks in. Very cheap too. And if you wanna replace the big bins with smaller one's theyre only ~$2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Hk5wyDRF47epw

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.


In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.


So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWQAYfGxsPE.


I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

• Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks). https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10144-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware/dp/B003P2UOCO
  
  
• Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF
  
  
• This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjyg6RWDlZw
  
  
• Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations. https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-WGL-200GVB-Galvanized-Organizer/dp/B002LZSWFW
  
  
• A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Excel-TB2105X-Blue-26-Inch-Steel-Chest/dp/B002BETIQA

I have one of THESE guys. It stays sharp and works wonders for the weight. Takes a bit longer to get through hardwood because of the length, but it's a nice workout so all's good in my book.

TL;DR: I have a giant right bicep because of this saw.

ESEE-3 is the fixed blade knife I bring backpacking and its all i've ever needed. carrying a folding saw on top of that is all you would ever need for faster processing of wood. the two items below are less than half a lb (~7.2 oz)

http://www.amazon.com/ESEE-Knives-ESEE-3MIL-P-Military-Micarta/dp/B004DTREPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321931&sr=8-1&keywords=esee-3

http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-9-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321958&sr=8-3&keywords=folding+saw

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

>Perhaps because most people just clip them to their belts

I respectfully disagree, I would say most people pocket carry.

For a very think knife the Kershaw Leek is very thin.

I carry this Kershaw Needs Work as my etc, and this smaller CRKT when I'm at work in nice clothes.

Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.

The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.

Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.

I recently purchased an Akro-Mils 64-drawer, and it has been absolutely magnificent. Each drawer comfortably stores a 1000 count bag of beads, with some room to spare. There is no back on the unit, which I thought was odd at first, but this has not been an issue in use. All in all, it has ended up being a really solid option for this hobby.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: Added some details 😊

I've got 3 of these and it has served me well with school projects as well as just general hobby work.

https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511034951&sr=8-2&keywords=small+parts+storage

If you're more interested in a more portable option I would suggest one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5324-Organizer-Compartments/dp/B003MP9FH4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1511035029&sr=8-13&keywords=portable+small+parts+storage

Or one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Small-Portable-Parts-Storage-Warranty/dp/B016F1OE86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511035061&sr=8-3&keywords=portable+small+parts+storage&dpID=41xYJViFYwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I just started on this venture myself, and I am planning on using some of these: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1AMLS2ATACRU2&coliid=I2HEX98NDSJA7E to store the bricks in. They have different versions that include all large bins, and a mix of the two.


Now looking at your picture, if you can imagine for a minute, my plan is to have a worktable something like your bottom half, and then above mounted on the walls I would place those parts containers.


I was also thinking that on the workbench I would secure down some of the larger baseplates as a build/play area.


I have measure my wall, and I could hold 15 of those storage bins, but really i would only get about have or so due to the table.


In my mind this sounds good....but I will have to see how it goes....and post pictures!

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it to you anyway: sort by need. I'm a WWII diorama and vehicle builder. I have separate large plastic containers for brown plates, green plates, white plates, tan plates, dark tan plates, etc; all earth tones that I'll need a lot of for dioramas. I also have large bins for grass pieces and leaf pieces. I use small drawers for the vehicle parts that get used frequently. The rest of my parts are generally just used as "filler" parts for unseen sections of my dioramas, so they're sorted very roughly. I've included a link to the drawers that I use.

http://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1373318950&sr=8-4&keywords=akro+mils+drawers

tl;dr: Depending on your building style, you'll need different organization. Experiment, and try to decide what's best for you. No two builders need the same organization.

These wire strippers are amazing. They save me so much time!

IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8-Inch (2078300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tRzcvb0NA9RNA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tRzcvb0NA9RNA

Leatherman - Skeletool® Multi-Tool, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vNErxbKEVHH1D
Still $41.25 without Prime.
Your account doesn't really matter as long as its flaired but this is the first time a knifeswapper has been concerned about doxxing.... Also sort of a red flag? I would probably keep the worry about Internet enemies quiet :)
GLWS!

wallet in front pocket leatherman in back pocket

funny enough the leatherman is usually worth more than the cash I'm carrying

Buy yourself one of these puppies. It holds 12 decks. The compartments fit just about any 100+ deck box or you can just leave the deck in the compartment on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

I use a Stanley organizer. It has 10 compartments; 8 small and two large. The small compartments can each hold a double sleeved commander deck, the large compartments can hold about 200.

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9bzdBbTK81R2R

gerber shard !

http://www.amazon.ca/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370665120&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+shard

Whiskey is absolutely not too boring. :)

Otherwise:

• Skeletool http://www.leatherman.com/skeletool-18.html
  
• Gerber Shard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002ZK45IQ
  
• Chocolate Coated coffee: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C70BXOI (assuming they drink coffee....)
  
• Cake of almost any form.
  
• Ice cream if appropriate to the local climate.
  
• Shiny things. (Cree XM-L torch) https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/t8g/Portable-Tactical-Flashlight-Simpeak-Aluminum-Lighting-Waterproof/B01M3PVPLM/ - just be wary because some of them use unusual batteries. The 18650 variants are really awesome because the batteries are rechargable, but it works a lot better if it comes bundled with some batteries and a charger! :) (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-with-AccuPower-Storage-Box/dp/B00NAPH7DA and https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MEFOHAS)
  
• Auxiliary power for phones/USB devices. Anker PowerCores are awesome: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019GJLER8 (they also do different sizes based on budget. 10000mAh is a 'weekend of fairly heavy use of a phone' sort of a quantity)
  

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

je traine sur /r/frugal et comme idée cadeau j'ai trouvé cette année :

• des batteries de smartphones et des chargeurs secteurs (pour mes cousins)
  
  
• les pastilles pour relever le gout des aliments "mBerry" (on trouve ça en import US sur eBay)
  
  
• Shard Keychain Tool à 13 euros
  http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B002ZK45IQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1642&creative=6746&creativeASIN=B002ZK45IQ&linkCode=as2&tag=payrecom-21&linkId=7ZWXWNRL6AJARAS6
  
  
• un outil "11 en 1 Spécial survie" qui vient de Hong Kong à 1€ port compris
  http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B000Q06LI4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1642&creative=6746&creativeASIN=B000Q06LI4&linkCode=as2&tag=payrecom-21&linkId=WPNOEJQAMHEU47GR

I think this fits the sub 50$ mark OP is requesting.

If you're looking for something a little smaller at half that price, the Leatherman Squirt PS4 has a fair amount of functionality for a 2.5" folded keychain addition.

The Leatherman Style PS is what I gotfor carrying in school, and it is supposed to be tsa compliant (as touted on their website here) however I have not tried it with mine.

Also, it is pretty small, but it's pretty much the only one I found without a knife that I knew is worth a damn.

Protip : The next time you send the grunts to cable up a new install, include a pair of inexpensive micro cutters. This makes removing all of the stupid twist ties go much more quickly and is far better on your fingers.

Bonus, these are also excellent for safely removing troublesome nylon zipties to be replaced with superiour velcro.

Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity

This is everything I Use.

Agreed. I had to fight that instinct to save the twist-ties in case they're needed later, but between that and snips, the only thing left to complain about is the waste-- plastic bags, cardboard labels, and all the snipped-open twist-ties.

I use these wire snips, which cost $5 at Amazon. The point is sharp enough that you can get under a right tie and confidently snip the tie without worrying that some cable will blunder into the way. And if you're making your own cable, it's great for snipping off a bad plug, getting the length of the twisted pairs even, etc., and less unwieldy than the bits of the crimping tool that do those same things.

If cost isn't an issue, then one of the all-in-one kits should get you just about everything you need: Resistance meter, micro screwdrivers, pliers, coil wrapping tool/mandrels, scissors and some tweezers(Preferably ceramic tipped)

If you're tight on cash, there's a few routes to go. If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get most of what you need there.

• Micro screwdriver kit: Most of these kits have screwdrivers in the most commonly wrapped coil sizes so that you can actually use the screwdriver as a mandrel for wrapping coils. 2, 2.4, 3 and 3.5 mm are all the most common size of coils, and I have found that I can wrap better coils than the kits can. Here's the set I use. You can find these on Amazon as well, and for not a lot of money.
  
  
• Scissors: Most of the "All-in-One" kits are lacking in some way, and it's usually the scissors. The little fold-out scissors that are included couldn't cut through a wet kleenex. A good, smaller size set of scissors can be found at WalMart, HB, or Amazon and bonus if you're left-handed! You can get a set made just for your backwards hands!(I'm a lefty. I hate trying to use regular scissors for precision work!)
  
  Resistance Meter: Also referred to as an Ohm reader (shudders). If you're ever going to get into mechs, this is a necessity. Hell, when first building, it's a nice thing to have to check your build for shorts before you slap it on your mod. You can spend as low as $5 usd, or $35-$45 dollars for a Tab unit that can actually fire the coil to work out hot spots.
  
  Finally, cotton and wire. This has been bandied about ad nauseum about which type of wire and gauge is best, and the debate on wicking materials still comes up from time to time. So, I'll give you my two cents and leave it at that.
  
  Wire: 26 gauge kanthal. Why? It's easy to work with, provides good flavor and doesn't need to be run at insane wattage levels for great results. If high wattage vaping is your thing, get some 24 gauge. Better still, get both! I like 26 and 28 gauge(Twisted wire YAY!), you'll find your preference as you go. I didn't care for 24 gauge as it made the vape a bit too warm for my liking.
  
  Cotton for wicking? I swear by Labo Puffs. No "Fresh cotton" taste, easy to work with and lasts for EVAR. I'm still using the 120 pad bag I bought over a year ago, and it'll still be another six months before I need more. Here's the Amazon link for the Prime eligible pads. There are cheaper sellers, but they are in Japan and it can take a week to get to you.
  
  What's left? Wire cutters, of course! Nail clippers work alright, but something like this works even better!
  
  There's my suggestions and whatnot. Take or leave what you will, and welcome to the world of building!

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418727072&sr=8-1&keywords=rat1
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
http://www.amazon.com/SOG-Specialty-Knives-TF22-CP-3-15-Inch/dp/B004WN59KW/ref=sr_1_44?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1418726833&sr=1-44&keywords=SOG+Knives
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

I'm not the best photographer, so here are the links to everything:

Watch: Eco Drive W/ NATO Band (Band was found on Massdrop)

Knife: Kershaw Blur S30V (Blue S30V W/ Blackwash finish can be found on Massdrop)

Pen: Fisher Space

Wallet: Big Skinny Slim

Notebook: Right in the Rain No954

Light: ArmyTek Prime C1 Pro

Lighter: Zippo Slim - Venetian High Polish

Candy: Life Saver Fruit

I've got this one in my pocket right now.

Oddly enough, it's currently cheaper than the 1670BLK that I normally carry.

The kershaw blur in S30V is an amazon deal of the day. Kershaw Blur S30V Folding Pocket Knife (1670S30V); 3.4” S30V Blade with Stonewashed Finish and Anodized Aluminum Handle with Trac-Tec Inserts, SpeedSafe Assisted Opening, Reversible Pocketclip; 4 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xun8BbXGBXX84

Kershaw anything-with-SpeedSafe

S30V Blur is a great option

I don't like busy pockets, and I don't have time to sharpen a knife. I carry a Gerber Razor knife because it fits in my watch pocket and I just change the blade every 7-20 days.

Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bb1kDb3BPBDN1

Cannot possibly recommend this enough. Much nicer than the bulkier knives I used to carry, and it isn't showing much age after being in my pocket for a year.

Edit: $12.95.

Looks like a Gerber EAB Pocket Knife. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_88R5ybM5NKV4W

Kershaw skyline
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Kershaw chill
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-2&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

there's some good stuff in there.


I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.

video


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.


also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.


oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.


As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.



oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.


oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/

A little more than your gift card, but it's worth it. Well worth it.

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

Kershaw Blur in s30v would be my suggestion.

It's assisted and has good steel. About 20 cm overall length open, so not too large, but not too small. And it's on sale. :)

I'll see if I can think of some others.

Take Amazon's money. Jesus fuck I overpaid for this at an Ace Hardware.

I used to help my grandfather do this all the time when I was a kid. We castrated them when they were very young - about the size of a large cat. He always had a little, old-fashioned 2-blade folder that he carried everywhere and he'd spend half an hour sharpening it when it was time to do the castrating.

I'd hold the pig by the back legs and he'd slice them, remove the testicles, cut the cord and then swab them with iodine and let them go. There wasn't much blood at all... The scariest part was always the sows angrily squealing and looking for a way to get in and tear us apart...

If I were to do this today I'd probably use a utility knife with a fresh blade in it. No worries about sharpness and you can toss the blade when you're done. Check out the Gerber EAB. It's my every day carry and would probably work great for this.

I don't remember ever having to castrate a large pig. I do remember that he used bands to castrate the cows. Basically it was just a heavy duty rubber band that would cut off blood flow until the testicles just fell off. It sounds gruesome but it never seemed to cause them any distress and we never had issues with infection. I'm not sure if this would work on pigs but you could probably google it.

I bought the gerber utility knife because everything else was too thick.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016KHW2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396738590&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

here is what I was talking about

1 - Canadian pesos: great for censuring keys and exchanging for cheap goods.
2 - Kingston DataTraveler SE9 8GB USB 2.0
3 - Generic plastic cable stripper from idk where.
4 - Old 10 roentgen quartz pen dosimeter from (I think) Canadian forces surplus.
5 - Gerber 22-41830 EAB Pocket Knife
6 - Zebra Pen F-701
7 - Corsair 32GB voyager GO
8 - Olight i3E EOS EDC AAA LED Keychain Flashlight
9 - USB-C to Micro USB, One is in a 3d printed holder.
10 - Cheap but good sony headphones from bestbuy.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

https://www.amazon.ca/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Handle-Folding/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PPSW9TW75C63ZAXA5MBA
If you don't like the size, the RAT 1 is slightly bigger.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kershaw-1760-Skyline-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488135474&sr=8-1&keywords=Kershaw+skyline

You do have a problem...

It doesn't appear you have a case for them ;D

(I use these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ9514?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 but you have bigger ships than I)

This is what I use. Unfortunately they are not completely sealed cubby spaces, so if you jostle it hard some of the beads may leak out into other cub holes. But each space fits 1000 beads very comfortably ~60 colors. If you mount it like its designed for you'll never have a problem.

A couple of years ago, /u/DancingQueen5961 recommended this storage cabinet by Akro-Mils. I filed it in my wishlist and sat on the idea for a while.

Now I've finally bought one. Two of the concerns raised in the original thread do apply, specifically:

These single-sized drawers can't fit larger accessories. (The case with the multiple drawer sizes would be best for that.)

Front lip may catch on things when the drawer is opened. I might not use the figma bags for this reason. However, I'd probably still use some buffer material in the drawers to keep things from bouncing around too much.

The issue with too many drawers doesn't apply in my case: I actually have more figures with accessories than the cabinet has drawers, though as mentioned not all of them will have all of their accessories be suitable for the cabinet. But it's enough to work as I'm planning to use it for parts storage for the figures that I tend to change parts on often.

Now to actually finish loading the thing.

Akro-mils 64 drawer seems to be what most people here use. https://www.amazon.ca/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

I'll start with a meta one. How do you organize your parts?

I am currently using 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

with a mix of 15 of these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80102919/

And I feel like i just can't keep things as organized as I'd like. What do you do?

Thanks! I'm hoping I can pull off a decent finish. Nervous about the ironing phase since this will be my largest project to date. As for the organizer I came across them in post on this sub from a few years back. Here's the link to it on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_dQjVCb24HTHXM

The drawers perfectly fit a 1000 pack of beads. I just cut the names of the colors off the bags and tape them to drawers and then organize them in a rainbow spectrum.

I wonder how the Katapult compares to the cheaper but highly-rated Irwin model.

Ontario RAT 1 in D2.

Damn it, I do always suggest a RAT. Oh, well, it's a damn good knife, and you can also pick up the AUS-8 version for like 20 bucks, too!

Edit: Added links. And it's like 26 bucks for the AUS-8 version on amazon.com. My bad.

Hey dude.

First of all, congratulations on picking up a good nakiri. Tojiro's whole line of knives and cleavers are solid as hell and a great bang for your buck. The first knife I ever picked up for my wife when she started working in restaurants was a Tojiro, and it still gets used all the time.

If I were you, I'd do as /u/mangoforfeit said and get a King Stone. They're under $30 on Amazon right now, which is a steal, and it'll be all you need for a while.

I don't know who put the idea that using "German" vs "Japanese" steel on a stone is going to make a difference, but it won't. You can sharpen low HRC steel on the same stones you sharpen high HRC steel, but the higher the hardness of the blade, the longer it'll take you. I have an Aritsugu gyuto that I sharpen once a week, and that shit is a fucking work out 65 HRC and 11 inches. For that one, I go 1000 grit, 3000 grit, and then 6000 grit.

Korin has a great video series on how to use whetstones. If you want to practice before you start trying to get the angles right on your real knives, that's fine. But bear in mind that sharpening is a process, and you're not going to fuck up one of your knives with one or two errant strokes.

Basically, buy the stones, watch a few videos, and then get to it.

Just buy a Japanese waterstone. They're really easy to use, and will sharpen anything to a razor edge. You don't need any kind of stand, just put it on a wet towel. 'King' brand are really good:
http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409343939&sr=8-3&keywords=waterstone

This is a link to the whetstone:
https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473210353&sr=8-1&keywords=whetstone

In terms of honing versus sharpening:

Even though the knife's edge looks smooth, it is in fact a ton of micro-sized teeth (think of a serrated knife, but with teeth that are muuuch smaller). As you cut, sometimes the teeth will become misaligned -- that is, instead of them all being pointed in the same, specific direction and angle, they might start "bending" or "blunting." When you hone the edge of a knife, you straighten out these teeth and realign them in one direction. Boom, it's cutting more smoothly now.

But sometimes, instead of the teeth simply bending in a different direction, the tip of the tooth might get chipped or broken due to use. Think of a sharp pencil tip that has accidentally snapped. Not so good at writing in a sharp line -- and the knife is not so good at cutting cleanly (it will blunt foods instead). At this point, you need to sharpen the knife by shaving off bits of steel, as you would the lead and wood from a pencil. Once it's sharpened, and you've scrapped off a microscopic thin layer of steel, the knife's teeth are all sharp and ready to go again.

Edit: And a link to a machine knife sharpener https://www.amazon.com/KitchenIQ-50009-Stage-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B001CQTLJM/ref=zg_bs_289867_1

You need a honing rod for a German steel knife like this. The one thing to watch out for though, and which is why you usually by a branded honing rod is that you need the steel of the rod to be harder than the knife. There are lots of cheap shitty honing rods out there with steel that's softer than the knife. You could throw on a King 1k/6k combination whetstone for any real sharpening needs. You really don't need anything lower than 1k grit unless you're regularly sharpening up a knife/cleaver that's going through a lot of bones or the aforementioned coconuts and gets serious edge damage often.

This is exactly what you are NOT looking for but I'll say it anyway... just to hear myself talk:

I just bought a Whetstone from amazon and am amazed how easy it is with the right equipment. I was using a diamond stone and gave up. This was cheap and I get a perfect edge in minutes. The edge lasts longer than using the diamond. Don't forget to use a steel everytime you use the knife anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-Combination/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496761905&sr=8-4&keywords=wet+stones+for+sharpening+knives

I would recommend a diamond stone over a traditional waterstone. They cost more money, but they cut faster, don't require water, are less messy and they never have to be flattened like waterstones.

DMT is a very good brand and comes in many different sizes and grits. I own this one and it makes for a very good general purpose sharpening stone.. It's double sided with coarse and fine sides. Unless you're sharpening knives daily it should last decades, if not the rest of your life.

If you're on a tighter budget I would recommend this traditional waterstone. It's basically the traditional version of the diamond stone I linked. This is the stone I started out with, but I hardly use if anymore after getting my DMT.

waterstones for sharpening and a honing rod for western knives (guessing that's what you have).

Something cheap but good for value like a King 1k/6k to get you going first.

Once you get better, you can always upgrade to nicer stones like Shapton, Naniwa, Suehiro, etc.

I use Japanese knives so I don't have a honing rod and can't recommend you one.

​

Gist of it

Soak stone 10 mins

Start 1k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (look up what a burr is)

Start 6k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (polishing)

optional - you can also strop it to make it sharper using newspaper, cardboard, leather

hone the knife (5-10 passes) end of every week after use

​

There are really good playlists like Korin or JKI but they can get pretty serious, detailed and sometimes overwhelming.

I like to watch Burrfection where it's more casual content.

amateur!

I'm more of a Wenger 16999 guy

Fun fact, that specific knife is a collectors item and can be bought new on Amazon for $11,000. Downside is The Verge would still be unable to apply thermal paste properly.

https://www.amazon.ca/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

https://www.amazon.ca/014710R-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NG3GTGB1VBX8J9YEQJ1F

As stated in other comments a cheap DSLR backpack will work well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VPE1WK/

Another option is a part organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008J2IQ34
Or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G1CUK0/

This one can hold up to 12 double sleeved EDH decks.


Always be on the lookout, some of the best deckboxes out there are not made for cards but happen to work better than branded crap. I like to use the boxes my cellphone came in to hold whatever deck I take to FNM.

Stanley tool organizer. It literally fits X-Wing items perfectly and can be customized to your needs. I'm buying two more just in case... CHEAP on Amazon :)

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

I had been making photo albums but just started a YouTube channel. My friend was nice enough to let me borrow his GoPro and mounts but most of the time I record with my phone (also have another camera but it's a bit broken and can only take pictures). Part of what I'm ordering from amazon is a new monopod/tripod/selfie stick which I'm very much in need of at the moment since my videos are a bit shaky.

Haven't gotten around to do any solo 2 day trips yet (most of the time I'd be with a group and there would be designated campsites to fill up water at) but if I was going out with no means to fill up I'd take anywhere from 4-6 liters of water. The climate here is very hot and there is no such thing as bringing too much water. If there was a water source I could potentially allow myself to bring less since I could boil any water I find.

Amazon list:
-5.11 Rush 72 55L backpack
-Mora Companion (stainless steel)
-Bahco Laplander
-Headlamp
-Jetboil 10in frying pan
-Whetstone

All together that weighs 7.9 pounds and at some point I'd like to get a sleeping pad and tarp bringing it up to ten pounds (not including food, water, and other supplies which might get me to around 15-20 pounds depending on the duration of my outings).

As for the grill it's just a makeshift one. Four tent pegs and a small grate.

I highly recommend them, I have the Leek non-serrated. Best Knife I have ever owned.

So baked goods, socks I need to get on Buns' level if at all possible, 20mm or 22mm Nato Watch Straps, Beers, Maybe a new Flashlight pocket knives, kindle books, T-shirts xxl ( i shrink things a lot), Hoodies same size, games(card, board, video)

[S&W Shield 9MM] (http://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/mp-9-shield-0)

[CYA Supply Co. IWB Holster] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPNAW6U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Timex Chronograph] (https://www.express.com/clothing/men/timex-miami-chronograph-gift-set/pro/04741814/color/SILVER)

[Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Gerber Dime Multi Tool] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Klarus Mini One 130 Lumens Rechargeable Flashlight] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VLY8R3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[House of Jack Double ID Bifold Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UDPNBBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Zippo Venetian Slim High Polish Brass] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W34K5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

3' Keychain Measuring Tape

Lip Balm/Comb

Gold plated Tungsten Carbide pinky ring

Extra 7-Round Mag

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

I usually carry the Leatherman Style PS. It's pretty small though, but has pliers, scissors, flathead screwdriver/file, and tweezers. Plus the clip on it can be used as a bottle opener.

The Leatherman Style PS is travel friendly and has pretty much everything the dime has except for the blade.

1 (carried) Keychain

2 (on keychain) House key, Car key, Mailbox key, Office key

3 (on keychain) Leatherman Style PS

4 (on keychain) Streamlight Keymate

5 (on keychain) Data Traveler 16gb

6 (front right pocket) Kershaw Scallion

7 (front left pocket) Ronson Jetlite

8 (back right pocket) Chums Bifold

9 (in wallet) Tool Logic Survival Card

10 (in wallet) True Utility Pen

11 (in wallet) Forever Stamps

12 (left wrist) Timex Expedition Watch

13 (back left pocket) iPhone 4 with Mirrored cover

14 (face or neck) Gucci Glasses

15 (carried) Zojirushi insulated water bottle

Leatherman 831488 Style PS Multitool claims to be "TSA-Compliant"

Waterproof Flashdrive

Couldn't find any juice but had the headlamp for when I did early morning drone shots and visiting Herculaneum (looked deeper into caves). I already had it an its small so I threw it in. No knife, TSA approved multi-tool which we used a couple of times mostly for scissors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RX9NU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Weird Sandals?? Pretty normal for me and used this 95% of the time to walk/hike. Both straps on the back broke pulling the sandals on so Keen gave me credit and buying these guys http://www.keenfootwear.com/p/W-VERSAGO.html

First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.

> It's ok to be brutal.

Alright -

I really hate the music you used.

I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.

Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.

During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.

I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.

From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.

1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software
   
   
2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.
   
   Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0
   
   
3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.
   
   
4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.
   
   
5. Have fun! I love mine!
   
   Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:
   
   Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Micro cutter: CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2189Bb5GM55MS

Xacto knife

99% isopropyl alcohol

Windex

Acetone

Scotchbrite pad

Hex wench set

Painters tape (I only use this for the purge line for PETG)

Metric ruler

Calipers

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

Ohm's Law

Current = Voltage / Resistance. Probably the single most important thing you need to understand to keep yourself safe. Steam-engine.org is a very handy site for rebuilding, and it has a simple Ohm's Law calculator. This will allow you to determine the current (amps) and power (watts) at a given resistance and voltage. When determining the current for a build on a mechanical, you always want to use 4.2v for your voltage setting since that will be the voltage of the fully charged cell. Setting your voltage as such and lowering the resistance on the Ohm's Law calcultor, you will see the current increase. You want to keep the current below the max continuous discharge rate for the battery, and just to be safe, I like to keep my amps at least 10%-20% below that max continuous rating. So you can see that with a fully charged battery at 4.2v, and a build with a resistance of 0.21Ω, you would be right at 20A.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp



Batteries

If you are mainly looking to sub-ohm, don't bother with 18350 or 18490/500 batteries, and stick with 18650s. The most important part of the battery specs for safe sub-ohm vaping is going to be the max continuous discharge rating for the cell. A few months ago, I would have only suggested Sony VTC4s or VTC5s, due to their 30A continuous discharge rating, but due to price gouging and a rash of fakes due to limited availability I don't think those are going to be your best option. Next best thing at the moment is either the Samsung 25R or the LG HE2. Both are solid 2500mAh batteries with 20A continuous discharge.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-lg-icr18650he2-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html



Charger

The most important part of your gear to prevent your house from burning down, definitely don't skimp on the charger. I have an Efest LUC v4 which works wonderfully, and the Nitecore i-series chargers are also great, and you can't beat the price for the quality.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/efest-luc-v4-charger.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-intellicharge-i2.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-i4-intellicharger-2014-edition.html



Ohm Meter

Having an ohm meter is a must have when rebuilding. This is going to tell you what the resistance of your build is once you get it on your RBA. The last thing you want is to vent a battery in a mod you are using, and if you have a short in your build, venting is definitely a possibility. You can just get yourself a cheap multimeter from some place like harbor freight, but I prefer the ohm meters that have the 510 connection. Less hassle, and it gives you a nice solid base for building on your RBA.

http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html



Wick

There are a number of different wicking materials in use, but the most common is cotton. I started out using organic cotton balls from my local pharmacy, but now I only use japanese cotton pads. The japanese cotton has blown up, mainly because of its form factor (very easy to cut strips to size from a square pad) and excellent wicking ability.

http://www.sephora.com/pure-cotton-P300602

http://www.cvs.com/shop/baby-child/bath-skin-care/cotton-swabs/cvs-100-cotton-triple-size-organic-cotton-balls-skuid-405326



Wire

There are also some different types of wire available, but the most used (by far) would have to be Kanthal. I generally suggest picking up a couple different gauges to start. At the very least, I would say grab some 28ga and 26ga. If you are planning to try building below something like 0.4Ω, I would also grab some 24ga.

http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire



Wire Snips

Soemthing to cut your wire, whether it is a small pair of wire snips, or even a set of nail clippers will work for most common gauges of Kanthal.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418241774&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+snips



Coil Jig/Mandrel

You are going to need something to wrap your coils on. A lot of people use drill bits since they have standardized sizes and that will help you determine (using something like http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp) how many wraps at a given inner diameter will give you the resistance you are looking for. You can also get small coil jigs that come with a set of rods of varying diameters. I prefer to use something like a jump ring mandrel. It has multiple diameters on the one tool to wrap on.

http://101vape.com/accessories-/362-rba-coil-jig.html

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010836/1926001-vaping-coil-winding-jig-tool-for-rebuildable



Mechanical Mod

This and the section about RBAs is going to be very subjective. Plenty of mech mods out there function perfectly well, so when it comes to picking your mech, a lot of it will be aesthetics and form. In the end, all the mechanical mod is is a metal tube with a switch at one end and a 510 connector at the other. The two things that I tend to focus on when looking at a mech mod are how well the button functions (nothing more annoying to me than a crunchy button), and will I be able to easily adjust for battery rattle. There may be other feature that you are more concerned with, like does the unit have some sort of locking ring to prevent unintentional firing of the mod. Something to definitely consider if you are going to be carrying the mod in such a way that it could accidentally fire without your knowledge. I guess I will just link some of the mods that I prefer, like the SMPL, Pegasus, Colonial, and Vanilla. And I may as well throw a link in there for a Nemesis, since it is the go-to suggestion for first mech mod, and still a solid mod. Also, keep in mind that most if not all of these mods come in multiple color and/or metal options, including copper, brass, and stainless steel.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010820/1924800-smpl-style-18650-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008266/1739802-pegasus-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008332/1910000-penny-v2-style-18650-copper-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008560/1776902-vanilla-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009160/1448300-nemesis-style-mechanical-mod




RBA

So when it comes to rebuildable atomizers, you basically have two options. Either you will be using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) or an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer). Your RDAs have you dripping juice directly onto your coils with relatively little juice in reserve, whereas your RTAs have a tank that is filled, and then juice is wicked from the tank to the coils. As a general rule, RTAs give you the ability to have to fill/drip less often, but tend to be more restrictive on build space and airflow. On the other hand, you will have to repeatedly drip juice onto your build as you vape with an RDA, but will have more options for different builds and be able to provide the necessary airflow for hotter builds. Again, these are just general rules, as specific models of RDAs and RTAs have different features. As far as breaking down the specifics on all the different models of RDA and RTA...yeah, there are just too many to even start. Recently, I have mainly been using a Mephisto v1 clone. I like having the ability to run either dual or single coil, I like the changeable airflow rings, I like the available airflow, the well isn't too small, and it has large post holes and screws. I am also going to throw in a link for the TOBH, since it is the obligatory "first dripper" suggetsion. Since this single item is probably going to do the most to affect your experience, I would suggest just taking some time and looking at what RTAs and RDAs are available, and then check out some reviews of them on YouTube.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009074/1802100-mephisto-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007863/1716603-tobh-atty-v2-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomzier

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)

A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.

A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter

A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool

A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.

A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

as you can see in the pic it has 2 extra large compartments. If you're at a home depot or something just grab the normal sized compartments from a different box and you can comfortably fit 12 commander decks, it's really sturdy, I'm a big fan.

For those wondering what he means by "Stanley toolboxes", this is the product he is talking about.

I have the same thing and got it through amazon. Here's a link.

I'm going to disagree strongly with anyone advising you to use ANY type of rod on this knife. This knife is is very hard. Well, the cutting edge is, the cladding isn't. The core steel is advertised as 63-64 hrc. That's hard enough to chip if you use any type or rod on it.

There are generally 2 types of honing rods. Abrasive and non-abrasive. Non-abrasive rods are meant to be used on softer steels like those found in European knives. The edge can be bent out of line by use and a honing steel rod can be used to straighten it back into line between sharpenings on a stone.

Abrasive rods are a bad idea on this knife (and all knives in general except serrated edges in my opinion) because of their hardness and shape. In order to keep the overall shape of the cutting edge you need a flatter abrasive surface (like a stone) or you could end up with a "hollow" spot in the edge profile. I apologise that i don'e have a picture to illustrate but imagine if you cut something and there is a place on the edge that can't contact the cutting board because it has been ground away too much.

For sharpening get a stone. I'd start with this one https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

Beautiful knife. Lucky husband. Enjoy

No, its most likely trash. You'll be much better off with a single shapton pro 1000.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

copy and paste from another post:

https://www.youtube.com/user/JKnifeImports

There is a knife sharpening playlist. I recommend watching the theory videos before the practice/demo ones.

You re most likely looking for double bevel sharpening, so skip the single bevel ones for now, unless youre interested.

Item List

Glasses

• Joseph Abboud frames with computer lenses to filter out the blue light from the computer as well as a slight prescription for focus relief.
  
  Keys
  
  
• Gerber Shard
  
  
• SOG Key Knife
  
  Pen and Notepad
  
  
• Pilot Metropolitan
  
  
• Grey Moleskine Cahier Journal (graph paper)
  
  Watch
  
  
• Fitbit Alta with a nice brown leather wristband I got off Amazon.
  
  Phone and Wallet
  
• iPhone 6S Plus
  
  
• OtterBox Symmetry Case (Slate Grey/Deep Water Blue)
  
  
• CardBuddy Brown Leather Card Holder
  
  Headphones
  
  
• Shure SE215-K IEM Headphones
  
  
  Edit: I'm bad at formatting.
  

I have the gerber shard on a bow shackle with one of those kingston usbs, only so the usb has some protection.

For Reference

• Unknown Watches - The Classic Tan & Silver
  
• iPhone 6 Plus - Space Grey 16gb + cheap cover
  
• Field Notes
  
• Matte Black Fisher Bullet Space Pen
  
• CW&T Architect's Scale (Metric) Pen Type-A
  
• Keys - Paracord wrapped Gerber Shard - Cheap Carabiner - House Key - Paracord keyfob - DIY Duct Tape Roll
  
• Thrunite A1 v2
  
• Leatherman Rev
  
• Ted Baker Trifold Wallet
  
• Victorinox Swisscard Classic
  
• Car Key

Alternate View


I work in the tech industry, but I'm not comfortable going too much further than that.
EDC (on my person):

• Cell phone (not pictured): Galaxy S4 with extended battery Amazon
  
• Watch: Invicta 8926OB Amazon
  
• Knives (rotation):
  
  • Kershaw Blur Amazon
    
  • Kershaw Leek Amazon
    
  • Kershaw Brawler Amazon
    
  • CRKT Fossil Amazon
    
• Flashlight: Thrunite TN12 (2014 Version) 2016 Version Amazon
  
• Wallet: Kenneth Cole, not sure what kind.
  
• Gun: S&W Shield 9mm w/ Talon grips
  
• Keychain Amazon
  Thingies on keychain:
  
  • Tile Cell Phone/Key locator Amazon
    
  • TRUE lighter Amazon
    
  • Gerber Curve mini tool Amazon
    
  • Gerber Shard bottle opener (come on, what else is it good for?) Amazon
    
  • House and car keys
    
    
    
    But wait, there's more! Bonus Closeup Images
    

Watch. Really overpriced for this challenge but I don't really care.

Keychain

FreeKey System, I've always wanted to try this

Light, already own it and I see no reason to change it

Gerber Shard, haven't seen anything that I think might be better, although I don't use all its features

I don't carry a knife.

You can buy the other two items for less than $20 shipped if you have Amazon prime

​

Flashlight:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXGFJYJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Prybar:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZK45IQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been rocking my Leatherman Squirt as a daily carry for the past 3-4 years. I use it several times a week, maybe more. I believe they make two versions, one with pliers and one with scissors(?); I'd go with the pliers 99 out of 100 times... I also see they have a 25 year warranty - bonus!

You could make a monkey's fist with some paracord and slide the key into the fifth pocket of your jeans. I carry a photon light, a leatherman squirt and a gerber shard on some aircraft cable and a carabiner. I just about something on my keychain besides my keys everyday

Ultimate Guard Boulders for the decks themselves.

Transport them in a Stanley 10 Compartment Professional Organizer. This is what I use to carry around my EDH decks.

I suggest this to everyone, I've used mine for years and lately a couple of guys at my LGS have jumped on the train too. It's awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

Organized using Stanley 25, Stanley 10, Sterlite 1961, Sterlite 1962 and ziplock bags. In the Sterlites I have all my 2xX's, 1xXs, "slopes" (anything with non-right angles on it) and "inspiration pieces" (unique pieces such as tower spires and ship hulls). In the Stanleys, I keep all other pieces organized as specifically as made sense. There's still some further sorting I can do in those (e.g. all studs are together, not separated by color), but this feels like a huge win.

Seconding the wine bottle gift bag idea, as my first thought would've been something like a large Crown Royal bag ;) I would suggest this as a good starting stone; he can get a lower or higher grit stone at some point if he wants, but this will serve just fine.

This?. Would you mind giving me a high level explanation of the grits when it comes to sharpening knives or linking me some resources? I am good with the water vs. oil and natural vs synthetic debate and can find how to videos but would like a deeper understanding of the grit thing and beginner vs advanced. Thanks.

Get a shapton pro 1k, it's a splash stone and that's all you need ATM.

$60 can on Amazon so you still have $20 left for naniwa nagura

Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 by Shapton https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TPFT0G/

As for your next knife purchase, head over to /r/chefknives and fill out the recommendation form. Dalstrong is mediocre. For the price, you can do much better.

Also, as an alternative to a cheap sharpening system, there are very good, regular stones (not part of a system) that can be had for as low as $36 (like the Shapton 1000. It takes a little more practice, but it sounds like you have the knives to practice with. Youtube is quite the teacher. Just another option to consider.

I prefer waterstones for kitchen knives, and have a pretty extensive stone setup but a single ~1k grit stone will be just fine for most people. If your knives have any significant chipping you might want something coarser, but otherwise a 1k should be fine (given a little patience if they're in bad shape). No real need to go above 1k for most people, I'd recommend This Shapton 1000 or This king 800 grit. The king is a bit softer and will dish faster than the shapton one will. If you're able to flatten it easily this isn't an issue.

In terms of the actual sharpening technique, This is a good starting point for the basic movements, Jon really knows his stuff and if you watch through all the videos in that playlist you'll be set. I personally switch hands when i flip the knife as I find it's a more natural movement. So long as you hit both sides evenly, raise a burr, then remove this burr correctly you'll have a sharp knife.

Hi,

I got the shapton Kuromaku 1000 (Japanese Shapton pro) and have been very happy with it. It’s also right within your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541257897&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shapton+kuromaku+1000&dpPl=1&dpID=41uhuBgfaBL&ref=plSrch

I also got a large silicon pet mat for $10 to act as my sharpening pond.

Not sure what you mean by "sharpeners" but from your 13 - 200 range I'm guessing you're looking at pull through devices that range from a cheap piece of plastic crap with some sort of abrasive "V" in it to the electric powered, better built machine with multiple abrasive "V's" in it.

The pull throughs at either end of the price spectrum are not good for sharpening any sort of quality blade. They grind off too much steel, They only work with symmetrical blades. I would not leave any of my knives in the same room with one.

Suggest you consider a sharpening stone or two. Whet stone sharpening is a bit of a skill but it's quick to become proficient with it. Your budget would support a single mid range grit stone, reach a little and you could pick up a finishing stone as well. I like the Sharpton Pro 1K as a first stone https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

Learning to sharpen can be a skill that will serve a lifetime.

I know you said you wanted a Japanese handle but I think you should consider a Misono Molybdenum. It was my first knife and I’m honestly still happy with it.
Its inexpensive, tough, takes a pretty good edge, and has good fit and finish. It won’t take as keen of an edge as the knives you mentioned.. but its easy to sharpen which is great if you’re learning how to.

I own a Ginga too and its pretty amazing but I wouldn’t want it as my sole knife. It’s a really thin blade so its a bit more fragile than the Misono. I personally would rather have a tougher knife if I only had one.

I also really like the Hi-soft cutting board. It’s easy on knives, has some weight and theres very little maintenance. Just don’t put it in the dishwasher.

Misono Molybdenum 240mm ~ $112.50

(Korin is having a 15% off sale on knives right now)
http://korin.com/HMI-MOGY-240?sc=27&category=280076

Hi-Soft Cutting Board ~ $48.00

(From Korin. Combine the shipping with the Misono)
http://korin.com/HiSoft-Cutting-Board_3?sc=28&category=286082

Bester 1200 ~ $55

(Leaves a good edge alone)

OR

Shapton Pro 1000 ~ $35

(I like the Bester better but this is a really good deal on Amazon Prime)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081962&sr=8-1&keywords=shapton+pro+1000

Suehiro Rika 5000 ~ $50

(Optional.. nice to have tho)

Atoma 400 ~$60

(For stone flattening. You can buy a cheaper plate if you want)
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Diamond-Sharpener-Medium-400/dp/B0031KNR2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081982&sr=8-1&keywords=atoma+400
I know the link says generic.. but this is an Atoma 400. Just make sure you buy the one that is Amazon Prime

I wouldn’t spend all $500 at once. You can always buy a nicer knife later.. and having two knives is convenient anyway.

Get a shapton kuromaku 1k. Cheapest and best 1k outside of the chosera and less than half the cost.

Here it is - https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G

If you want to stay with just 2 stones, get a Japanese stone or coticule. You will find small ones for under $40 and large ones upwards of $1000+++

If you have any specific questions, send me a pm. I have hundreds of stones.

Checkout /r/chefknives and /r/sharpening, they have a lot of resources on all the stuff youll eventually need and how to get started learning to sharpen. As far as stone recommendations I would say a good starter spot is the King 1000/6000 or a combination of the Shapton stones if it’s in your budget. Personally I think just the Shapton 1k is a good starting spot and build from there. Here’s the link to the Shapton 1k

I'd go for something like this:

• Shapton 1k - https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/
  
  
• Shapton 5k - https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Sharpening-SHAPTON-Ceramic-KUROMAKU/dp/B001TPH8YG/
  
  That's just $90. Maybe much later when you really need a rough stone, get the 320 Shapton or something in Diamond for ~30

I've got a gerber shard, they're cheap as fuck but useful. Use it a lot in the office and is a handy bee opener/screw driver in a pinch.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Shard-Keychain-Tool-22-01769/dp/B002ZK45IQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483898416&sr=1-1&keywords=gerber+shard

I currently have a Gerber Shard and the re purposed the hemmed cuff from my ST-120x's.

The Shard is awesome because it's TSA approved and I'm a frequent flyer.

There's a great post in here about manly man gifts. A personalized hatchet looked really great.

All the guys on my list this year are getting yeti tumblers, booze, and dopp kits.

Last year i threw in a few of these shards: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Shard-Keychain-Tool-22-01769/dp/B002ZK45IQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510330452&sr=1-1&keywords=shard+tool&dpID=41Vcqx2c-WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Hope this helps!

I carry a gerber shard, the main reason/use is for tightening tripod plates, even if I have a leatherman with me, the shard is still easier and faster for plates.


I think another small 'add on' tool like that would interest me, something to augment the camera abilities of a multi tool.

• RBF: (Closest I could find)
  
  
• Gerber Shard
  
  
• Benchmade Barrage
  
  
• X-Doria iPhone 6 Defense (Favorite case I've ever had)
  
  
• [Fenix PD32](
  http://www.amazon.com/PD32-2016-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B01AJJKF38?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01)
  
  
• GW-9400-1CR
  
  
• Chapstick
  
  
• Mint
  
  
• XD-40

A Gerber Shard for your keyring. Mine comes in super handy, and it's only a couple bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419998793&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+shard

Edit: Added link

A bunch of wool socks and a Gerber Shard!.

The shard seems a little strange, but right now I need something else to put on my keyring just to give it something more to grab onto when I pull it out of my pocket! The shard seems like a good solution. If I can get one use out of the little phillips and perhaps the pry bar it'll probably be worth it!

• Blue Cerulean Zippo
  
• Taste-T-Picks mint-flavored toothpicks
  
• Blue Fisher Space Pen
  
• Streamlight Microstream (coating worn off where it rubs against my knife)
  
• new Spyderco Manix 2 in S110v - I linked the image to BBS, but you can actually find it cheaper on BladeHQ and Knifecenter.
  
• new +B Victorinox Castaway SAK in Blue Alox - Link is just the newsletter because it isn't available in the webstore.
  
• Leatherman Skeletool CX - I love this tool. I've purchased 4 or 5 of them and given them away to friends and family because I love it so much. I'd recommend to anyone. The blade on this thing is amazing.
  
• Burt's Bees chapstick
  
• Car/Jeep/House keys, Blue anodized WTF tool (Wrench-That-Fits), Blue Leatherman PS4, and iTP A3 EOS upgraded all attached by lobster clasps on Copper Corter Bottlehook and keyring.
  
  EDIT: Added links to everything and corrected some details.
  EDIT_2: Grammar.

I hear the Leatherman Squirt is pretty good.

• Motorola Triumph
  
• Leatherman Squirt ES4
  
• Origin 1 USB MicroSD card reader / phone charger / data cable
  
• Magnesium fire starter
  
• Half a True Utility Twistick
  
• 8Gb MicroSD card
  
• and a Sharpie Mini
  
  That gives me the following tools: camera, phone, flashlight (phone's LED flash - surprisingly bright), emergency phone charger, 8Gb USB stick / flash card, phone data cable (phone has an additional 32Gb microSD card), knife, file, wire stripper / cutter, pliers, philips / flathead screwdrivers, bottle opener, scissors, marker, corkscrew, fire starter, and keys.
  
  I also generally carry my ID and debit card, not pictured.

I'm an obsessive gear nerd, and I actually make and design gear for a living.

For your price range, this is bar none the most useful thing you could get him (assuming he likes to be useful himself.)
http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831195-Squirt-Black-Keychain/dp/B0032Y2OT6

• Spyderco Delica4 FFG: http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica-Ground-Plain-Knife/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459344866&sr=8-2&keywords=delica
  
  
• Thrunite Ti3: http://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Ti3-Max120-Lumens-Flashlight/dp/B00LUO028U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459344940&sr=8-1&keywords=ti3
  
  
• Leatherman Squirt PS4: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831195-Squirt-Black-Keychain/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459344970&sr=8-1&keywords=leatherman+squirt
  
  All 3 are amazing value and are altogether just over $100. :)

You have to help us out with some details here. What do you like to do?

When you start carrying a keychain, having a small multitool can come in handy. I've also wanted to add a little flashlight to my lanyard.

From Left to right


-Key-chain: Keys, Carabiner (made in china), 4sevens Mini X Quark 123, Corsair Flash Voyager Mini 64 GB USB 3.0, and Leatherman Squirt PS4


-Pilot Precise V5 RT Rolling Ball Pens, Extra Fine point, Black Ink

-Spyderco Endura 4 Saber Grind VG-10 steel

-Maxpedition Micro Wallet in OD green

-Mora Bushcraft Black Carbon Steel Fixed Blade

Off camera/Forgotten Items

-Mini Bic Lighter

-Samsung Flight II SGH-A927

-Burt Bee's Chapstick

I carry my Leatherman Squirt PS4 every day. Works for so much stuff.

Kershaw Skyline is an affordable option.

Kershaw Skyline

Seconded. I just retired my M16 combo tanto because the handle is uncomfortable, boxy, and thick; and the blade angles are weird and very hard to sharpen well. For $35, I recommend the Kershaw Skyline (the same length as the M16, here it is in orange) or Scallion. I haven't had a Tenacious, and it seems large for my tastes, but for Spyderco a Dragonfly ($45) is next on my list.

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.


Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.



I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.


Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.


Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

Just to throw another idea out there: Kershaw Skyline. It's not spring assisted, but it's bound to be more reliable, and it's right around your price range. Made in America, too.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367987908&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Put nothing in the stocking. Only put things in molle attached pockets. Mags, ammo, and a decent knife could easily get you to $150.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8/

I bought this recently and really like it.

There's a king 1000/6000 stone on amazon for $45 that would work well.

http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407216065&sr=8-1&keywords=king+1000+6000

What size is your whetstone and how did you modify it? I bought a King 1000/6000 stone, this is the one. If our stones are the same size (haha, just realized how that sounded), can you share your modified file?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT1X9O/

This. For sharpening stones, buy a 1k and 6k stone, brand isn't a super big factor. King is apparently pretty good, but I use nawima or something. Edit: These stones.

What's a good basic setup for sharpening/maintaining kitchen knives? I've seen a couple recommendations for the king 1000/6000; are there other options I should be aware of?

Does this help?

I would say the go-to beginner stone that is recommended is the King 1k/6k.

Not the best stone in the world, but it's cheap and does a decent job. If you end up enjoying sharpening you will upgrade before too long, but as a utility this guy does fine.

Sure you can send them off to shun, but then you are without your knives for a few days. And realistically, after a month of use without sharpening, any knife is going to be less than spectacular.

Don't bother. 1000/6000 double sided is cheaper on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-Combination/dp/B001DT1X9O

...and you won't have to wait a month or more to get it.

Thanks for the response!

I know cheaper knives can last a long time and it isn't necessary to spend so much (especially when you aren't working in a restaurant). It's something I really enjoy and have a strong interest in though! I was looking at wet-stones like this, but if that isn't the right style would love the feedback!

Thank you for the links as well!

EDIT: Formatting error

The only piece of equipment you need is a dual side wet stone with a medium grit on one side and high grit on the other. Stone sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, but it is an indispensable skill to acquire if you plan on keeping up with knives in general.

Edit: A bit down the line you'll want to invest in a flattening stone or something of the like to help keep your stone from dishing with use.

Stones jki or king 1000/6000 double. Like this. https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=king+1000%2F6000+whetstone&qid=1574593937&sprefix=king+1000&sr=8-3


Can’t really get a good knife for 50$. They really start at 80min. But he can improve his existing stock immensely and learn how to care for better knives before purchasing

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Japanese-whetstone-Combination-Grit-1000/dp/B001DT1X9O

Here ya go. My understanding is that for all intents and purposes, a stone is a stone. A better quality one may be more durable but won't necessarily hone a blade better than a cheap one.

I usually use Nano-Oil but on some knives (ones that will be used on food) I just use mineral oil.

Check this and this out, a good progression of grits for less than $100 and they are good stones, not absolute top of the line but certainly useable and serviceable.

I have a Suisin 10.5" High-Carbon Steel Gyotou and a 5.9" Petty from the same line. I use a very basic 2-sided King Stone, and it sharpens soooooooo easily. High carbon steel, to be fair, sharpens way easier than stainless. It also holds an edge pretty damn well for how easy it is to get them so sharp!

Shapton stones are awesome but expensive. Check out this brand King Two Sided Sharpening Stone with Base - #1000 & #6000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PP19ub0HEMA24
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PP19ub0HEMA24

It's on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

Did you check out the one for the massive Swiss army knife?
http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Giant-Swiss-Knife/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_3

The other reviews are pretty good

80 is 70 too many

The assumption that you can't get a job and avoid Hibernate is a self-fulfilling prophecy. I've used--and insisted on--Jdbi at my last two jobs and it did not hurt my prospects in any way.

​

Let's get specific about the reasons for avoiding Hibernate / JPA:

​

JPA takes from you both control of, and visibility into, the SQL statements executed by the framework.

​

It sets in stone (based on annotations) once and for all use cases which secondary queries will be run and which columns will be selected any time a certain type is retrieved from the database--regardless of whether the use case at hand calls for it. This dramatically hurts performance.

​

It is difficult to predict how it formulates SQL commands based on your annotations, requiring testing and SQL logging just to make sure Hibernate is doing what it should.

​

JPA is tricky to configure, with myriad corner cases that frequently require extended debug sessions. Fun fact: debugging through Hibernate's internals is hellish. Thought you were going to spend time developing that new feature? Fuck you, first you have to spend hours to days figuring out how to coerce Hibernate to do this thing that would be trivial in plain JDBC.

​

JPA conditions developers to think in terms of the limited models that JPA supports, blinding them to all the other cool shit DB vendors support. "Well, Postgres has native support support for HSTORE but JPA doesn't support it, so we just added added a separate key/value table off the main table to hold those entries."

​

But by far, the worst, most egregious design decision was the combination of sessions and lazy loading. Hey, let's take a straightforward database query and obfuscate it behind unintuitive framework logic, because we're smart for you! Let's be super fucking clever and make it so navigating an object graph incurs database operations invisibly--for convenience! You probably didn't need most of that data we loaded, but you're welcome anyway.

​

Hibernate went too far. They tried to SOLVE ALL THE PROBLEMS instead of just giving us what we needed: a data access layer.

​

We don't need object-relational mapping! We don't need a session cache. We sure as fuck don't need open-session-in-view. We just needed something to make plain old SQL approachable (more approachable than JDBC, at any rate). Instead we got this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ

​

Java devs need to start embracing SQL for what it is, and stop trying to shoehorn it into an object-oriented paradigm.

​

JPA is an albatross. Run, do not walk to the exits.

it's only a mere $8,500. https://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

More like this

Or a swiss army knife

Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cPxRCb572D7E7

www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZTJRQ/

Found a similar one for sale in the US: http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369248065&sr=8-1&keywords=Wenger+Giant+Swiss+Army+Knife

No great user-submitted images, though.

Dear lord, have you played either of these? I can't imagine how it must operate, other than feeling like, well, this.

Heh heh this guy

The reviews are the best part.

He's not joking.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DZTJRQ#Ask
Your welcome

The product reviews are pure gold :-)

I think I found it!

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_47?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1468759771&sr=1-47

EDIT: Well something close to it.

For storing and transporting larger number of decks, I'd recommend a tool box such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_2?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510241000&sr=1-2&refinements=p_89%3AStanley%2Cp_6%3AATVPDKIKX0DER&dpID=51waoS12%252B5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I sort by a combination of color and piece using a three tiered system.

Tier 1 - Small Parts Storage
All of a given piece are put into a drawer at this point. As more drawers are needed, I begin to sort into colors. Once I fill 4 drawers, I move to Tier 2

Tier 2 - Stanley Cases
Most of my brick and plates are in these. Each has ten interchangeable trays so you can reorganize to have a case you can take with you for a given project. I mostly use the 10 compartment model but own a couple of the 25 compartment for things like 1x1 tiles that come in a large number of colors. Once one of the large compartments is full, I move to tier 3.

Tier 3 - Shoebox storage
Each of these holds 6.5 qts of brick which is equivalent to one Pick a Brick case from the LEGO store. If one of these gets filled up, I start a second one.

Most of my collection is sorted this way. I do use these for minifigs and plastic drawers for things like bionicle parts.

I use these: Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_L5beTKfQnmA3X

If you keep the plastic holder, you can use the yellow boxes to stabilize it. Give me a few and I'll take some pictures.

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

One of the many Kershaw Chinese made knives, like the Tremor or the Scamp. A Buck Vantage Select. You might find an Ontario Rat 1 for under $25 if you search around.

There are also several Chinese brands that are pretty cheap and very decent quality, you can find on ebay, or http://www.exduct.com.

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

• Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.
  
  
• Cold Steel mini recon
  Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.
  
  
• Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.
  
  
• Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.
  
  
• Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism
  
  
• Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.
  
  
• Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.
  
  
  And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.
  
  edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!

My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.

Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.

Here are some affordable options.

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7ziUub1K4FP48

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OAiUub1JC6EFZ

JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UG51OK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_pBiUub02WTDZZ

Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB1MJFA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YIiUub0M7RSYV

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

Swiss Army Knife

Kershaw method

Kershaw Westin

Ganzo FH-11

Byrd Medowlark 2

Opinel #8

Ontario Rat 1

All of these are going to last longer and perform better than the MTech. In terms of appearance and esthetics, nobody is going to look askance if you pull out a Swiss army knife or an opinel. Flicking your mtech will likely be a different story. You should carry what you enjoy, but understand that conventional wisdom is going to look down on the appearance and, if they know about knives, the MTech brand. If you go with the Mtech, don't trust the lock too much and don't be surprised if the assist mechanism breaks.

I was thinking something similar.
1 Ontario 8848 RAT
2 Kershaw Chill (A bit slimmer, lighter, and sleeker than the Clash)
3 CRKT Drifter G10

I just bought the Chill, and I love it! At 1.9 oz, it's half the weight of the Clash. The locking system is nice and smooth. I loosened the tension a little so I don't need to flick my wrist, just a quick trigger pull on the tab. So far, nothing I can complain about.

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

• Opinel No8 Carbon Pocket Knife | $12 | 4.6 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Chill Serrated Pocket Knife | $21 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Brawler Speedsafe Knife | $23 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Ontario RAT Folding Knife | $27 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo Speed Safe Folding Knife | $30 | 4.4 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Ambitious Plain Edge Knife | $33 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious Plain Edge Knife | $34 | 4.7 Stars
  
  
• Camillus Carbonitride Titanium Folding Knife | $37 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Ken Onion Leek Folding Knife with Speed Safe | $39 | 4.7 Stars
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  PS if you aren't sure about your knife laws check out this PDF just scroll to your state and check. Also /r/Knives can probably help you if you have more specific questions about knives. Although going to that sub-reddit will also probably mean spending more than $30 so be forewarned.

I just bought a Ontario Rat-1 based on some positive reviews from friends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013ASG3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

24 bucks is not a bad deal. My go to carry are Benchmade Griptilian 550s and want to see how these stack up.

I've EDC'd a Spyderco Tenacious for about a year and I love it. If I had to replace it, I would easily consider another Tenacious, or a slightly smaller Persistence.

Part of me really wants a Leek but I'd also like a Kershaw Blur for the assisted opening, and if you can set aside an extra $20, you can spring for the version w/ S30V steel. All of these are within your price range.

Kershaw Blur S30V

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1670S30V-Knife-Steel-SpeedSafe/dp/B0015ZXCT0/

Had the blur for years and I love it.

Another option is the S30V Kershaw Camber.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1678-Camber-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B00ILFL5Z0/


Depends on how you want to deploy. Thumb stud or the rear tang.

The Kershaw Blur with s30v is slightly above that price point. It looks like you may already have one.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Blur-Knife-Steel-Blade/dp/B0015ZXCT0

I have the regular EAB,

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

Wallet $15 - big skinny

knife $10 - Gerber EAB

keychain $7.50 freekey

suspension clip $5 - tec p7 ripoff

Light - I don't have a good one for this yet. Can someone recommend a small AAA light with a power button (vs twist)? I have a twist one and it kept getting turned on in my pocket.

Knife

Notebooks

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

Firstly, you are in luck! The specs you listed are all available in one of my ALL TIME favorite knives. The Kershaw Skyline (video) is the finest EDC knife I've ever owned. Extremely light. Blade shape is perfect and thin... hollow ground. The grip is spectacular and you owe it to yourself to buy it. Oh, and the flipper is just perfect. Trust me you won't go wrong here. I keep mine shave sharp and it is simply a blast to own. You get used to the aesthetics. Check the reviews from amazon linked above.

Try this. I carry one everyday. Made right here in Tualatin, Oregon. Besides, it's a good tool to have on you anyway.

Kershaw Skyline is one of the best knives for the money.

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.
   
   
2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done
   
   
3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.
   
   
4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.
   
   
5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.
   
   
6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8) - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.
   
   
7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made
   
   All of these I would buy again.

Save for the epic ships, I essentially have a very similar number/distribution of ships as you. I use the Plano 5231. One for the rebels and one for the empire. It does a good job of holding all the small ship, cards, and maneuver dials in the bottom. And the top works well for all the small focus/evades/TLs and such on the top. The only problem I have with it is the storage of the larger ships. I can only seem to fit one YT-1300 in for the rebels, and one firespray plus lambda for the empire. Over all for the price I am happy with them, and there is still room for small ships. I just need to figure out something for larger ships

This case made by Plano is outstanding for holding everything Carcassonne. The compartments on top hold all of the tokens and them some with each being able to have their own separate compartments, and the inside compartments hold all of your tiles plus room for labeling and plenty of room for extra stuff as well. A few pieces of paper like your collections rules can also fit inside as well.

I use these for Lego, would work well for AR parts.

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

Say hello to my little friend.

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

It's this. https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/

I have something similar. I keep mine in paper coin envelopes and have silica gel packets in each drawer to keep moisture down.

Maybe something like a couple of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=asc_df_B000LDH3JC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167133658256&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1117257087118984114&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011743&hvtargid=pla-195125441595&psc=1

I don't know what /u/grizzly_wintergreen had in mind, but I have something more like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

I would not go for anything open, as it can get dusty. As those are transparent drawers, you can see inside them without opening.

I have used these and they work great. They do have some different configurations for larger drawers and they are mountable. The bins are almost the same size as a standard 50 keyblank box from ilco.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3OC2FIAG2Q6E&keywords=akro+mills+storage+bins&qid=1556653666&s=gateway&sprefix=akro+m%2Ctools%2C144&sr=8-5

I bought one of these. I got the dividers so each drawer can hold two colors.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDH3JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDH3JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these

and

these

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

22 AWG stranded wire is pretty standard for wiring anything.

i usually buy these, as they're a good price, 2 day shipping w/ prime, and its a nice multi color kit, which helps when wiring...in case you have to trace the wire back to the board when debugging. plus everyone likes colors:

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Stranded/dp/B00B4ZQ3L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Solid/dp/B00B4ZRPEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+kit

use shielded wire (with the 'shield grounded') for any audio signal inputs/outputs if you get noise. not 100% necessary, but might be worth it in the end for the sound quality and reducing any noise.

i also recommend you get a real wire stripper. this one is the bees knees:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418567132&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+stripper

Something like this. Makes stripping so easy that a child could do it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EZTOAbT5TCC02

thanks for the reply... i have strippers that go down to 6awg, i was just wondering what folks recommend for lower gauge and/or faster speed (like this self-adjusting stripper, but for 4/6/8 gauge)

I'm a Jr. Sysadmin / tech support person where I work and this is what I use. The skeletool is pretty handy just to carry around on a daily basis. The ifixit toolkit has bits that helped me work on all sorts of stuff including Apple products. Hell, I even found a bit to tighten a screw on my office chair. The magnetic bowl is definitely worth it if your company pays for it! :)

Leatherman Skeletool +
ifixit tool kit + Magnet bowl

My friend this tool can be bought @ amazon for $41 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Skeletool-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000XU9NXW

I am not sure where you keep getting the prices from! You will need to adjust it down to atleast this price. Ideally a little under.

Really nice multitools they are around $30-40, it's kind of the perfect gift. Try the Leatherman skeletool

For EDC, consider a Skeletool for your next purchase. Honestly it's one of my most used tools, and I love it. I have the CX version which looks slightly cooler and has slightly better steel, but the normal version is still awesome (aparently they jumped in price on amazon though...).

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

My two most used items I got off amazon.

Kingston Datatraveler: The most solidly built flash drive I've been able to find for the money so far. They have a 3.0 version now but it looks like the key chain is made out of plastic.

Leatherman Skeletool: Good multitool that is versatile without being cumbersome.

I purchased the Leatherman Skeletool for my groomsmen. In retrospect, I'm not sure if they all use them since some of them live out of town, but I bought myself the Leatherman Skeletool CX and carry it daily. I think it makes a great pocketknife replacement since it's small, and having the added tools is very handy. I did have the pliers break on me, but Leatherman replaced the entire unit through their lifetime warranty. Fill out a form and send it in; I didn't have to provide proof of purchase.

If you go the Zippo route, it might be nice to have them engraved with the groomsmen's name and a short note. My wife did something similar for me as part of gift one year.

I think a Leatherman is a good pick, and I'd get the same thing for everyone. A personalized item for each person is nice too (i.e. each person gets something completely different), but that makes the selection process longer. So it depends on how much work you want to put into it.

Wife got me a leatherman Skeletool with a carabiner clip a few years ago. I wear it every single day on my belt loop. Best multi-tool I have ever owned and it's been my go to gitf for secret Santa for years.

https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Skeletool-Lightweight-Multitool-Stainless/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=skeletool&qid=1574435589&sr=8-4

I'd also carry a normal multi-tool (I carry a Leatherman Skeletool). They do come in handy, especially for pulling out stubborn pokey things that work themselves into your tires. The knife and screwdriver can be handy as well at times.

thank mr skeletool

List of gear:

• Sharpie, Fisher Space Bullet Pen w/ clip
  
• Bear Grylls Survival Serrated Knife
  
• Leatherman Skeletool w/ leather sheath
  
• Humvee LED Flashlight w/ hockey tape for mouth-use * Barska 10-30x50 Gladiator Binoculars
  
• Ruled Leather Mini-Notebook
  
• 4-stripe epaulettes
  
• Slim, bifold leather wallet
  
• Droid Razr Maxx w/ Moto Belt-clip Holster

If you want a folder, the Rat by the Ontario Knife Company is definitely a great choice.


Just read some reviews. For $27 you are getting a ridiculously well made knife.

A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.

The leatherman squirt is my vote:
Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_g--9ub16GVE55


Or a flashlight like this: Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4--9ub0V16HNV

Left to right


Muji Eraser


[Sigg 0.6L water bottle] (http://siggnorthamerica.com/shop/classic-traveller/0-6l-classic-traveller/)


[Muji Gel Pen] (https://www.muji.eu/pages/online.asp?Sec=13&Sub=52)


[Alvin DRAFT-TEC RETRAC 0.3mm] (https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-DR07-Draf-Tec-Retrac-Mechanical/dp/B001DKJ55C)


[Leatherman Style PS] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style-PS-Multi-Tool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU)


Chapfix+


Anker SoundBuds Sport IE 20


[Fisher Space Pen] (https://www.amazon.com/Fisher-400B-Space-Bullet-Pen/dp/B000WGD13U)


[Leatherman Wave Black] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Multi-Tool-Black-Molle-Sheath/dp/B0009JS2ZW)


[Mee Audio M6 Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/MEE-audio-Universal-Fit-Noise-Isolating-Detachable/dp/B015S2I6A0)


[Random Knife] (http://www.smorgasburg.com/)


[Corsair Voyager Go 32GB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Voyager-USB3-0-Android-devices/dp/B00HVT27CW)


[Kershaw Cryo 1555Ti] (https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q)


[Alpine Swiss Slim Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Swiss-Genuine-Leather-Pocket/dp/B00EOYKEEA)


[Anker PowerCore 10000 with Quick Charge 3.0] (https://www.anker.com/products/A1264011)


[Seiko SNDC31] (https://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNDC31-Classic-Stainless-Chronograph/dp/B004JY0KP8)


[Lenovo T440s (256GB Samsung 840 EVO, 12GB ram, 1080p touchscreen, i5 4300)]
(http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t440s/)


[Motorola Doid Turbo Ballistic Nylon 32GB] (https://www.verizonwireless.com/smartphones/droid-turbo/)

For Light Carry:

• Leatherman Style PS - TSA approved or Leatherman Micra
  
  
• Fenix E12 Flashlight - I believe this is the successor to the EO5
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Pen or Fisher Bullet Space Pen - the stainless wears better in your pocket.
  
  
• Moleskin Volant Notebook
  
  
• SOG Flash I - if you can swing the extra $10 or get the cheaper pen, I HIGHLY recommend this knife as a very minimal yet practical knife. I've sort of chunked the rest and this one is with me all the time. Also very public-friendly size.
  
  

multitool with no blade
style PS

Looks like:
LEATHERMAN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IjGmDbDPGMT4Q

I'd try to build this EDC with the assumption that I could keep it for years (if not indefinitely):

Wallet: allett Ultra Slim Sport Wallet - $15

Knife: Opinel No. 6 Carbon - $12

Multitool: Leatherman Style PS - $25

Light: Olight i3s - $15

Pen: Zebra Sarasa Clip - $3

Watch: Timex Weekender - a variant under $30

I EDC a Style PS right now, and have EDCed the Olight i3s and Zebra Sarasa Clip in the past. I own (but have never EDCed) an Opinel No. 8 stainless, and it's excellent, but I wish it were smaller and could sharpen up even more, so No. 6 carbon it is. I've handled allett wallets in stores and trust their usability and quality. The Timex Weekender is the only one on this list that I haven't had direct experience with, but it's the cheapest watch I could find that I'd feel I could keep for a long time.

I would consider any tailstanding AAA light under $15 with a reasonable high and low. I went with the Olight i3s because I've used it, but I'd also take the Lumintop Worm or Thrunite Ti3 if I could get it under $15.

I couldn't give up my blade, so I settled on one of these.

Leatherman has one without a blade that is TSA approved but very limited in tools. I brought it with me everywhere but Thailand wanted me to check it in so I tossed it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058RX9NU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486184629&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tsa+approved+leatherman&dpPl=1&dpID=41M01p2aAJL&ref=plSrch

For flush cutters/snippers (don't need two tools really) get either:

• https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS or
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K
  
  Even the cheapest ESD tweezers are ok for holding components, get a kit that includes angled ones if you're going to do a bunch of SMD.
  
  These are good also: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6

For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.

• 1x Emit Vapor Shotgun - http://www.vapercompany.com/Emit-Vapor-Shotgun-p/b10evs.htm
  
  
• 1x Trident V2 Atomizer (adjustible air flow and slotted posts are great.) - http://www.shopmvg.com/products/trident-v2
  
  
• 1x 100ft roll of 28awg Kanthal A1 wire - http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/
  
  
• 1x Wire Cutting tool - http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Maximum-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
  
• 1x Ohm Meter - http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
  
  
• 1x Cotton Roll (to use as wicks) - http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Roll-Sterile-12-1-56/dp/B0008F6HOU/
  
  
• ?x Vape Juice (pick as many as you like) - http://www.vaportrailsnw.com/
  
  
• 4x 18650 batteries. Currently Sony VTC4 batteries are the best on the market. - http://www.amazon.com/Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J470LTA/
  
  
• 1x Efest LUC Charger (easy to use and LCD display helps) - http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/
  
  optional
  
  
• Small Carrying Case - http://illuminationsupply.com/battery-carriers-c-48_49/ecig-mod-zippered-carry-case-p-963.html#.U06cnPldX8A
  
  
• Large Carrying Case - http://www.amazon.com/16-Bottle-Essential-Presentation-Portfolio-5-15ml/dp/B0007SMXRI/

zip ties, - skip the heat shrink for the esc's around the arms. Just zip tie them.

LOTS of nylon spacers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G1QSNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solder braid

Hex drivers - https://www.amazon.com/PIXNOR-Hexagonal-Driver-Screwdrivers-Helicopter/dp/B00QLZGRHS/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467916704&sr=1-5&keywords=hex+driver

sma pigtails - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DNMAEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

rubbing alcohol(gets off flux)

90 degree single pin headers - https://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-40-Pin-Header-Connector-Length/dp/B00R1LQ3FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467916531&sr=8-1&keywords=90+degree+single+pin+headers

mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P6KPKAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wire cutters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Get an arduino starter kit and start building projects.
  
• This is a good one for a good price.(it's twice that or more on amazon)
  
• and this is a good price for a batch of sensors(no arduino included)
  
• if you want to move stuff a batch of servos is fun
  
• a soldering iron is good
  
• this one is good for the price. I don't like the ones that adjust at the handle. I prefer a base station.
  
• need solder as well
  
• and a solder sucker
  
• flush cut wirecutters are good to have
  
• a good pair of wire strippers is a life saver
  
• Good idea to have a multimeter around for verifying resistance values and voltages
  
• this is a decent one for the price
  
• Need some breadboard for prototyping. I'd suggest at least 3
  
• and some protoboards to finalize your circuit(until you start getting pcb's made)
  
• some solid conductor wire
  
• I like these storage cases for keeping my mess semi-under control.
  
  That's about all I can think of for now.