Best power polishers & buffers according to redditors

We found 119 Reddit comments discussing the best power polishers & buffers. We ranked the 32 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Power Polishers & Buffers:

u/partways · 21 pointsr/Rowing

I'm gonna clue you into some next level shit right here. Buy a car buffer like this. Get the softest pad. Fire it up and mash your quads, have someone else do your hamstrings and lats. It's like a foam roller on steroids for myofascial release. Plus, then you don't have to spend half an hour humping a piece of foam for the same benefit.

u/metropolitanorlando · 14 pointsr/blogsnark

I use these for my plug-in wall sconces and other 'ambiance' lamps around the house. They connect to an app and I have them on a timer from 5:30 to 11 every evening. You can also just control wirelessly from your phone.

I also use this lightbulb for my front porch - it's got a sensor to turn on at dusk.

I recently moved to a 2-story house with laundry in the basement and we use those giant ikea bags for hauling laundry up and down--works way better than our baskets.

One more thing...caveat I have NOT tested this out yet but it's in my cart. I think I got this tip from The Strategist but this buffer tool is supposed to be great for warming up muscles and massaging sore muscles! I have chronic, terrible shoulder pain and I'm praying this gives relief...ps this is not code for Sam from SATC and her Sharper Image massager ;)

u/Chocer24 · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.

Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.

Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.

MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.

u/Alca_Pwn · 8 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Sure, I'll work on getting a how-to together with pictures but here's the basics of what I did:

  • Washed both headlights with Meguiars Gold Class soap
  • Used normal painters blue tape around the headlights so I didn't hit the rubber seal and create white marks or burn them.
  • Used 1500 wet/dry sandpaper and used Meguiars Quick Detailer has lubricant. As I mentioned below, anything would work instead - water even. Sand very lightly - it's very easy to sand too much and go through the clearcoat. It should have a hazy look when you are finished. I normally go in a criss cross pattern when I sand.
  • I used Meguiars Rubbing Compound on an application pad and spread it all over the headlight. (I didn't realize this compound was for hand-use only. I would suggest using compound made for a high-speed buffer)
  • I used a variable speed Cornwell polisher (couldn't find one online, DeWalt is also a great polisher). I can't remember the exact speed I used, it was about a 3 I think. You want it to be fairly low so you don't burn the paint.
  • Use a wool buffing pad on your polisher. In my experience, foam will burn your headlights almost 100% of the time. Wool can still burn it, but it's more forgiving.
  • Buff in a criss cross pattern across the headlights while keeping it as flat as possible and buff until most/all of the buffing compound is off.
  • Repeat the applying compound/buffing process until you reach a 'good enough' result. Don't expect it to be perfect on a headlight, some scratches just won't come out.
  • When you're finished, wipe off excess compound.
  • At this point, you can apply a wax and/or sealer if you want. Due to time only, I didn't do this step.

    That's basically the process I went through - I should have used a sealer and I would recommend it, but I didn't have any on me and it was getting late.
u/identifytarget · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Basic detailing goes like this

  1. Wash / Dry car
  2. Clay bar
  3. Polish [multi-step = (Cutting -> Polishing -> Finishing)]
  4. Wax (remove)

    You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.

    I use a Porter Cable for application / removal

    For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.

    They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.

    They make buff pads for removing wax

    For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
    Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)

    Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.

    You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.


    What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.
u/SA1L · 6 pointsr/sailing

I refinished my hull this spring on the advice of another redditor. His uncle is a professional boat detailer and had used this method for years with great results:

  1. Scrub Brush + Water + Soft Scrub w/Bleach

  2. Rinse, rinse again

  3. Wet sand with 2,500 grit wet sanding paper (get it at auto refinishing place). Don't wear a ring(s), keep your palm flat. Do not try to wet sand textured finishes (top side)

  4. Rinse, rinse again

  5. Using a professional buffer like this one, apply Meguiars #105 ultra cut compound to a wool or foam application pad (get 9" pad for 7" polisher) Work on a 2 x 2 ft space at a time, keeping the wheel flat. Run it between 1200 and 1400 rpms.

    Your finished result will look like this

    If you want to remove decals, pin striping, or the name, remove it first using an 'eraser disc'

    It took me a good 6-8 hours, but I was very, very impressed with the results. When I started, my gel coat was getting chalky, and little black spots. I actually enjoyed doing this, and if you're in the Milwaukee area, I'd be glad to help/lend you tools whatever.

    Looks like she's got great potential, I'd take her. Rigging, lines, motor... you could set her up for 1-2K I bet.

u/JRhodes88 · 6 pointsr/FocusST

Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight

About a month ago I did a full detail which included:

u/b-hop · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46 is a great starter and fairly capable, I still use mine for personal and some jobs.

u/wabowabo · 5 pointsr/powerlifting

Yup. I got one with a 3500rpm (I think). It has an effect so it massages/vibrates your whole forearm, if you place it on your forearm

Here is the exact one I bought

https://www.amazon.ca/Wen-6010-Waxer-Polisher-6-Inch/dp/B0000AXOHT/ref=sr_1_6?crid=23HZTKILOYGC&keywords=car+polisher&qid=1567878643&s=gateway&sprefix=car+poli%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-6#

u/flannel_smoothie · 5 pointsr/powerlifting
u/purplespengler · 5 pointsr/Fitness
u/Ready_4_Change · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Porter Cable 7424XP can be found at Amazon and I would highly recommend the following Junkman videos specific to that DA Polisher. Also he states some supplies to go along with the polisher to help with your shopping list for your brother.

PC7424: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46

Videos: http://youtu.be/KP-eAddv2sk

u/kziv · 4 pointsr/fitness30plus

I have a cheap orbital car buffer that I use to get out muscle soreness. I have this one and use it with the soft wool pad. Light pressure flat on big muscles does a general massage and I use the edge to dig into knots. It sounds utterly ridiculous, but a CrossFit friend turned me on to this and it really works. I got a better massage with it in 5 minutes than any foam roller, stick, or deep tissue massage I've ever had.

Also, it exfoliates and works pretty well for buffing your car (4 stars on Amazon) :)

u/ImRightImRight · 4 pointsr/Concrete

You need to get to know the power of diamonds, my friend!

Carbide can be good. Honestly, rasping your item against hard cured concrete, especially if done in the first few days after casting while it's green (softer), might do the trick.

Things like these are great: https://smile.amazon.com/Toolocity-DHPSET-Diamond-Polishing-Stone/dp/B00MCL4NHG

But even something like this would work for a small piece: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XZI2LI/

u/D1rtrunn3r · 4 pointsr/AdvancedRunning

5- Though I would love to come visit for cookies. . . Get one of these Which is a super cheep just-as-effective knock off of the BFF. AKA lazy but more intense than rolling to D1rt. ;)

u/someguynamedjohn13 · 4 pointsr/harborfreight

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher 119.99 over at Amazon. It's the most/best rated.
PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KspZCbNJV560D

u/drleephd · 4 pointsr/DIY

a basic walkthrough of the steps involved are as follows:

  • wash your car with dish soap to strip any wax on it (really!)

  • use a clay bar kit from the auto detailing section of the store to rub down the panels and soak up any contaminants bonded to the paint. it should usually come with a bottle of quick detailer to allow the clay to slide along the paint. you're not buffing here, just trying to catch all the tiny specs of dust bonded to the paint that a wet sponge won't catch. you don't want to polish those into your paint because you'll cause more scratches if you don't remove them.

  • use a cutting polish recommended for your particular paint condition, I won't tell you what to use because it's always something highly debated.
  • I recommend that you use a Dual-action rotary buffer or just a shitload of elbow grease, time, and a soft towel. It can be done by hand, but your arm and shoulder will be very sore when you're done.

  • finish with a good quality wax or paint sealant.
u/slow_cars_fast · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have been looking at this one: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1370906261&sr=8-8&keywords=buffer

Mostly because there is one at a local pawn shop for cheap. Anyone else have one that can verify that it's good stuff? Or should I spend the extra coin and get the same setup OP bought?

u/PungentReindeerKing_ · 3 pointsr/powerlifting

Car buffers are the ducking best. They’re better than the actual sports massage things. This one specifically https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fruiDbZYQRBV8

u/JuvenileSenseOfHumor · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

  1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.

  2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.

  3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.

  4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.

    Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.

    Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ

    PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56

    Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index
u/SPARTANsui · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

u/MediocreFisherman · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This is going to take some work.

Step 1 - Buy a buffer like you would use on your car. You could be a cheapass and buy one from harbor freight, or you could get a dewalt so it lasts the rest of your life. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849X-7-Inch-Variable-Polisher/dp/B004W1WGIC

Step 2 - buy some sheeps wool covers for it, to use for buffing.

Step 3 - Purchase some buffing compound. You want a heavy cutting one, the fine ones are meant for like stainless steel, which isn't going to take enough of a bite out of your polyurethane to make a difference.

Clean your floors. Buff with the buffer and compound. Clean again.

Step 4- Buff again, but with a paste carnuba wax. https://www.amazon.com/STAPLES-212-Lbs-Crystal-Clear/dp/B001OHSU50

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/bmcclure937 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I am not quite ready to start polishing... but looks like getting 'em for $100 would save about $17-20. (Amazon)

How difficult is it to return an item or exchange or deal with Customer Service if you take part in a group buy?

u/lordnecro · 3 pointsr/rockhounds

I would say a grinder with pads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZP3X6T

u/orlheadlights · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

That "DA" is not something I would use.

Check out one of these DA Polishers:

Harbor Freight DA

Griots Garage DA

Porter Cable DA

Meguiars DA

u/Worganizers · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
I would get this porter cable or if you are looking for a cheaper approach maybe the Harbor Freight Dual Action.

u/truckosaurus · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you want that particular DA I would buy it off amazon its 117.99 with free shipping (click add to cart to see the price)

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

then, since you're kinda new to machine finishing I would go with a microfiber pad and something less aggressive like megs microfiber formula

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Meguiars-DA-Microfiber-Compound-D300-16-oz_p_552.html

u/gswoff · 2 pointsr/Miami

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

u/thisonewillbeforgete · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Depends on the depth. If they're just light scratches across the clearcoat then it can be fixed with DA machine polishing, but if its really gouged into the paint then you can only just improve it at the most.

For fixing light scratches, for example using on my BRZ, I use a Porter Cable / Meguiar's G100 DA (dual-action) polisher with the DA Microfiber correction system with the 5 inch microfiber cutting disks. I use Meguiar's ultimate compound with the DA on areas were im just fixing light cobwebbing since it's lighter. Then follow up with a full wax. The two links provided below should cover it:

DA Polisher: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5NAEKBRAPWN6WM9HT26

Kit: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT6-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B004VFWUXK

The kit includes everything including the backing plate to fit the Porter Cable polisher. Only things missing from the kit needed are microfiber towels.

u/theoldthatisstrong · 2 pointsr/Fitness

This may sound crazy, but a small orbital buffer like this one works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9G4FZC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's an article to prove I'm not alone in my crazy love for these things for massage and recovery:http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

EDIT: On rereading I see you're asking about actual techniques for self-massage. For that, I don't know of a better book than The Trigger Point Therapy Workbook

u/iBody · 2 pointsr/CleaningTips

A kit like this one or buy a the stuff separately but you need a marble polish, polishing pads and a sealant.

It needs to be polished with a marble polish to a high shine then resealed.

Look up some videos on how to do it but its important to get all of the polishing residue out before you seal or you're going to have a bad time.

u/jku2017 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

With a bench buffer, buffing compound and buffing pads

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW8UOHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ej3FDbWE4BQPD

I offer it as a service - you could send it to me and I buff it to a mirror polish. Just keep in mind, it will get tarnished/patina again :)

u/Attack_Stig · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Is there any difference between a really nice polisher (I can't find one as an example) and a polisher like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_90CfzbTAG54TC

u/scrubandsqueak · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Milwaukee makes an awesome cordless rotary buffer, don’t know any decent random orbitals though.

Milwaukee cordless rotary

u/acdcvhdlr · 2 pointsr/Skookum

I just made an adapter to put the chuck on the front. Nothing permanent this time.

Edit - link

u/ZippyTheChicken · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

grinder but is this a slab or is this built up and will it show.. if it won't show then you can grind it with a hand grinder.. you will probably want a diamond grinder and then you can use sand paper.. and work your way up to a higher grade sand paper to remove the scratches.. once you get it to the point it looks dull but smooth you buff it shiny... or spray a little clear paint on it ..

thats how they would do it.. grind .. sand .. buff but if it is thin then good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/STADEA-Diamond-Polishing-granite-Concrete/dp/B00DZDPTPU

u/wdgiles · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Harbor freight is definitely cheaper, but for ease of use and reliability, you can't go wrong with the PC7424.

u/UWalex · 2 pointsr/ultrarunning

If you want a sports massager, the cheapest best option is probably a Black & Decker car buffer. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ They work just as well as the massagers and are super cheap.

u/thesirenlady · 2 pointsr/Bladesmith

They make polishers specifically for tube.
I would absolutely buy one if you have any quantity to do.

u/KnowsTheLaw · 2 pointsr/Dance

I assume you already have lacrosse balls, but this is a really good tool too, using a car polisher for myofascial release or stripping.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502402094&sr=1-2&keywords=orbital+polisher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5ictPToU9M

The closest thing you can get to that's meant to use on humans is a percussor, which is >$300. Battery lasts for a couple hundred hours

All my bodywork practitioners got them after I showed them mine.

This acupressure mat is good too, you can wrap your arms in it or dig your hands into it: http://www.heavenlymats.com/

Those are my favorites. I do a bit of thai massage for fun.

u/upstr3am · 2 pointsr/Pararescue

https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-RB61G-Corded-Swirl-Free-Orbital/dp/B00O9G4FZC
thats the car buffer/massage tool that is supposed to be good

u/sboyerfour · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

  • Simple microfiber mitt wash
  • Microfiber towel dry
  • Full body clay bar using this kit

  • All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.

    If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
    (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.
u/overnine000 · 2 pointsr/Fitness
u/oregonrebel · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

So as promised here are the majority of materials/tools I used to make the counters. I used the stain instead of actually coloring the concrete as I was worried about getting inconsistent coloring since I was doing multiple batches.
Now, my mistake I made which turned ok after the fact was that the concrete became too dense for the stain to penetrate. Despite using the sawzall to try and vibrate the air bubbles out from the bottom of the concrete but I was not able to get all of them out so there was pin holes on some of the counters. So I made a slurry as recommended and filled in all the holes and then sanded the high spots down. So when I stained the counters the areas that had been filled with slurry took to the stain very well but the actual concrete only became a darker grey. I communicated with a staff from ConcreteSolutions and they were very helpful in trying to get the stain to penetrate the concrete. I stained it probably 3 times and then just left it as it was and now I really love how it turned out despite not being as planned. Its almost like a black and grey leopard spot on most of the counters, the island area was the last poured and had hardly any air bubbles so its more solid color…
I let them sit and harden at least a week before I flipped them over and started sanding away. I did not want a exposed aggregate look so I had to be careful about sanding too much…
The stain and sealer work great and like the other user said, liquid just sits on an it and doesn’t not penetrate.
If you have any questions ask away- I had lots of friendly people help me on other forums and was very thankful for their help….

Chengs Book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561584843/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Sealer
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-siacryl-14-sealer/

Polish
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-counter-shine-polish/

Dye/Stain
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/stains-and-integral-colors/z-aqua-tint-dye/

Nylon Fibers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCDCM

SUPERPLASTICIZER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/161011304020

Diamond polishing pads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB1UMOW

Variable speed polisher
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-60626.html

u/cleti · 2 pointsr/weightroom

This is the one I use. So, I guess since it "orbits" instead of spins, that may help in the whole "preventing from cheese grating your skin" department.

u/ansiz · 2 pointsr/trailrunning

I would try out an orbiter waxer first, they are a lot cheaper - https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT

u/akoski12 · 2 pointsr/Lapidary

Legit just googled it then clicked on the first amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/1800rpm-Faceting-Machine-Jewelry-Polisher/dp/B07XNPZT5W

u/RGeronimoH · 2 pointsr/howto

If going to this amount of effort you can just use automotive polishing compound (bar keepers friend paste would probably be pretty close) and a wax/polishing machine. It will remove the buildup and then you can apply a coat of wax or Rain-X and you can do it inside your bathroom as long as you put a board to support the glass.

Take both doors out and lean a couple of 2x4 in your shower from the back wall to the front lip and then lean the glass against them. liberally apply polishing compound or barkeepers mix to the glass and then use the buffer ON A LOW SPEED - high speed will just make the paste fly everywhere.

I was about to do this to mine again but will try a couple of the 'easy' remedies mentioned above first.

Automotive detailers use this method on windshield of cars to remove buildup and grime and they look brand new after. I bought the Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher/Sander to polish/wax a black car that I owned and the paint was very neglected from sitting outside the past 15 years. After using a buffing compound the paint looked absolutely perfect. I used a polishing compound on the windshield and all of the scratches from the wipers and road grit were gone. The car was pristine - unfortunately I did this to sell it faster instead of to keep :-(

Edit: Your picture just loaded for me, you could probably do this while the door is closed and without removing the glass. If you open the door for better access while doing it be sure to put up a plastic sheet to keep it from spraying everywhere.

u/RandomUser72 · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

those skipdoctor things have a better chance and fucking it up further, so be warned on those. I personally have had a lot of success with a cheap buffing wheel. I have that one linked. I also use this liquid

I squirt a couple drops on the edge of the wheel, spread it around a bit with my finger, then turn on the buffer and hold the disc by putting the tip of my pinkie through the center hole, then use my thumb to rotate the disc as I buff the surface. Then use and cheap spray disc cleaner to get rid of that compound.

If you want even more, there is a machine that does all the work, that compound is for those, you just squirt some on the pad, drop a disc in, and turn it on. But that thing is twice the price of a buffer and I don't see a difference enough to upgrade (retro game shop near me has one).

u/hellfst · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002654I46/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002654I46&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003UW1IQU&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20

I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol

u/nakedjay · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just an FYI, you can get the 7424X for $119.99 off Amazon.

u/poscaps · 1 pointr/Fitness

Rhomboids and traps insert there. Mine are awful.

Invest in one of these: Orbital Polisher and one of these: Lacrosse Ball to work those knots out.

u/ryantrip · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/itsmemike05 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

While I don't have that specific new one, I do own the previous generation.

It's an average tool. It's a little louder than other ones I have used, nor does it have the same amount of power output.

If you can spare an extra $40, I'd personally recommend this:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

u/nahreddit · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Buy a Porter Cable 7424XP buffer and some cutting compound and polishing compound and buff it out after a good clay barring.

u/Jokaroni · 1 pointr/subaru

Thanks!! I dont do anything special really. Just a good hand wash with a soft mit, then dry it, and then a good coat of wax. I did, however, just buy this and this was my first time using it and it is awesome. Really brought out the shine! buffer and since i needed a liquid wax, this is what I got and it worked awesome! wax

For the inside, just vacuumed and cleaned all the windows and your normal dash cleaning stuff.

All in all, I think just keeping up with cleaning it worked best in keeping it looking good. In the winter I made sure to spray it off every week or so to remove any salt.

Hope this helps!!

u/socsa · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

It was a $30 deal I picked up from Amazon. The paint is brand new and doesn't need correction per-se - I have the polisher for... well, polishing. Maybe "buffer" is a better term. I have a dewalt random orbital "sander" I use for actual cutting if needed. The cheapo polisher actually works really well for making things shiny though, and I figured it would also work for gently cleaning paint and stripping wax/product. I don't think that's the problem because it was only one panel that had problems shrug

I'm not new to detailing, just coating. I'm more curious how the application will respond to further polishing, and how aggressive of a product to use for that purpose so the entire application won't be removed. Also, how long to wait before doing the opticoat "correction." It seems like so many people have issues with streaking, that it would be easier to just work a post-application polish into the workflow if that gets more consistent results. I do appreciate the comments though.

I will use the "real" tool to carefully re-prep the rest of the car to see if that makes a difference. I was just going with the "less agressive" option to start since the paint is mostly pristine already.

Edit - what I used is similar to this

u/redsoxfan95 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello every one, my questions seem like they're fairly simple so I'll get right to the point.

I'm trying to figure out if my car needs compound or if it just needs to be polished/waxed. The car is white so it was kind of hard to get a picture of the swirls. Here is a picture. The whole car is like this.

I'm also planning on buying this polisher. And I'm not really sure which brand of pads I should get for it for compounding (if needed), polishing and waxing.

I've never polished a car before so I'd like to practice on my old car then move on to my dads newer car which is a red 2011 ford focus, then move up to a grey 2016 ford escape, just thought I'd let you know.

u/pwnstarz48 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/CarsAndBikesAndStuff · 1 pointr/cars

I am very OCD about my car and its paint. I also live in an apartment complex with no hose, no covered parking and lots of shitty parkers. I recommend hitting up r/autodetailing and checking out their wiki.

​

As for my own cirumstances, I don't have a clear bra or ceramic coats as I prioritize paying my student loans to hundred to thousands of dollards of paint protection. However, I clean my car using AMMO Frothe, and do paint correction every so often as needed with a DA, Maguiars 205 and 105, and some Chemical Guys orange and white pads. I used Wolfgang Gloss 3.0 sealant on my car before winter and every month during the warmer months. If the car needs it, I'll do a gentle clay application before sealing.

​

Edit: This is the DA I use, but I recommend getting a separate velcro backing plate to mount reusable pads. Full disclosure, my gf works for the corporate parent company of Porter-Cable, and I got the thing dirt cheap.

u/lanmansa · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y6buzb0CTB6TD

Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!

u/grindfilesandpolish · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

get rid of that ryobi asap and pick up one of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-120-Volt-4-1-2-in-x-6-in-Corded-Angle-Grinder-with-Trigger-Grip-D28116/205877227

its the best grinder made as far as im concerned. ive tried them all. this thing is nice and light and slim, and has a 13 amp motor. nothing stops them. i use and abuse them all day at work and then come home and do the same, they just never stop. they're more powerful than most grinders double their weight.

and at 9000 rpm top speed you can safely use the 7 inch grinding discs, theyre rated for 8600 but theres lots of wiggle room for top speed. just make sure the wheel is always spinning perpendicular to your body, never paralell to your face. never shoot sparks towards you either, if the sparks are going away from you that means the grinder will kick towards you, and thats no fun.

another thing i find extremely useful and 100 times cheaper than flapdiscs are the just regular fibre sanding discs like:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-16-in-x-2-in-12-Grit-Sanding-Disc-DCD160012S01G/202830944

i just throw them overtop a regular 7 inch pipefitter disc. they hog metal off like nobodys business, they're flat and dont conform to bumps and grooves like flapper discs as well. i think i bought 30 of them in 36/100/120 grit about 3 years ago and i havent had to buy more yet.

dont use the plexiglass idea on a non-variable speed grinder, anything over 4 or 5k RPM gets a little scary, i'm not sure the plexiglass would hold up long on one of those dewalts. i use a makita 7 inch variable speed sander for mine. i would pick this thing over a regular angle grinder if i could only have one. having speed selection makes it super versatile rather than a 1 trick pony. this is the one i have:

https://www.amazon.ca/Makita-9237C-7-Inch-Polisher-Sander/dp/B00LA6M64G

just to put the power of the dewalt i mentioned earlier into perspective that makita 7 inch is 9 pounds and 10 amp. the dewalt is about 6 pounds and 13 amp.

u/bats43 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/seacritasianman · 1 pointr/cars

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

u/Vizslaraptor · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

DEWALT DWP849X $150 shipped with Amazon Prime
Only if Amazon is the seller, $-25 taken off when you checkout.

Autotopia another $300
Autogeek another $200

I'm soooo done for the weekend. All the other "hobbies" got nothin'.

u/zebano · 1 pointr/artc
u/umsco226 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I recently bought this polisher (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1) and I see that it says it is a 6 inch polisher. Does that mean I need to buy 6 inch pads? Also, do I need to buy a specific type of backing plate? Do I even need to buy a backing plate?

u/__-ds-__ · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I know Milwaukee makes a cordless 3” rotary polisher & sander. The full kit is $215 on Amazon. I do not have personal experience with it but the YouTube reviews seem okay.

Personally I decided if it was going to spend $200 I might as well just get the Rupes kit.

Here is the Amazon link M12 Variable Speed Polisher/Sander With 5 Piece Accessory Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPADRZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N3hWCb3ND0DCN

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/Dance

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/Simbakush · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Porter Cable on Amazon is only $96 bucks IF you go to checkout

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_8mJxwbHAWDFER

u/thatdamnedgym · 1 pointr/weightroom

Nah, that looks crazy haha

I use one of these. Super cheap, super effective.

u/Fyrel · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

If you have a dual action polisher (e.g. Harbor Freight or Porter Cable 7424 ), then it's definitely worth it to polish. By hand...well, if you've got about a week's worth of time and patience maybe.

If you don't want to make the investment in a dual action polisher or don't want to spend a long time polishing by hand, a wax may be the way to go. Most waxes will temporarily "fill" the tiny scratches, rendering them smoother, harder to see and ultimately making your car shinier. It will only last as long as the wax is on the paint though, which may be anywhere from a couple weeks to 2 or 3 months.

Because polish is a fine abrasive, yes, you can polish your car too often. Your car only has so much paint, and polish works by sanding off a very fine layer to smooth the paint out. As you can imagine, eventually it's possible to sand through the entire clear coat, especially with a heavier cutting compound. The less clear coat you have on your car, the less UV protection it has as well, so it will naturally degrade faster if you don't protect it (which is why applying a protective layer of wax, sealant or ceramic coating is essential after polishing).

u/shauncorleone · 1 pointr/weightroom

I don't know that it's that much better than a roller, but I do feel like it works a more targeted area than rolling. I haven't used it on anywhere other than quads, hamstrings, IT band and calves though. I have this one

EDIT: link formatting

u/trilobyte12 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Yes, I know 3000 grit should be enough to sand clear coat to an even surface, but I don't have a sander. I'm sanding with my hands which takes some time and effort. That's why I use lower grit sandpaper to speed up the process (since this is my 4th or 5th attempt at learning paint repair which includes sanding, I try to do things as quickly as I can).

​

Anyway, I 'buffed' (again, the buffer/polisher I'm using is not very efficient, and it's more like a toy) the fuel cap for like half an hour and I'm starting to see some shine. So I do think the buffer is the problem here.

​

What kind of buffer do you recommend? Would any 'variable speed' buffer do? For example, this unit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9WD5J5/ref=dp_cerb_2#customerReviews

u/atomic_bonanza · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh! It has to be Neko Case who is a indie-folk artist. She has such a beautiful voice and writes about interesting shit like her great uncle going crazy and being eaten by wolves and the capacity tornadoes have for love.

This may seem like a stretch but I pick it because Neko herself loves doing DIY projects and even renovated a whole barn by herself in Vancouver. I also pick this because there isn't that many things of her's on amazon. :/

Music is life!

u/LiquidChickenDrinker · 1 pointr/bodybuilding

Use a car buffer, 30 bucks from amazon. No, I'm not trolling you.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000077CPT/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

u/CG_Ops · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Detailing noob looking to give my truck some TLC. Would a sealant like this be used instead of a wax? I recently washed it, then clay bar'd it. After the clay, I used this buffer to wax it with chem guys butter wet wax

After reading this popular thread my suspisions that the wax was over-priced and over-smelly were confirmed and have been looking for better options.

Thanks for your feedback - I've read the wikki but I like interaction on these kinds of questions

u/Pinkman2012 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Yeah its probably one of these. They wont do any real polishing or compounding.

u/bettyellen · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

you could use this to relax your muscles better than any commercial massager can! It is awesome (second link like to videos)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000077CPT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

u/evilv3 · 1 pointr/Trucks

This was polished (heavy cut then light cut) then waxed using a Porter Cable.

7" front lift and 5.5" rear progressive leafs + 1" block. It was super dangerous on stock leafs with TWO stacks 3" blocks.

u/CiDirkona · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I've had one of these for almost 10 years, and it's worked great for spreading wax AND polishing with several menzerna products as well as megs ultimate compound. There's no speed adjustment and you have to use those turtle wax style microfiber bonets, but it was the best thing around for $30 for a while. http://amzn.com/B000077CPT

Now that the HarborFreight one is out and uses regular pads, is adjustable speed and is reliable, that $60-70 seems like the best way to go.

u/mightyprometheus · 0 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This polisher? I remember reading some time ago that there was some mod people were doing with this one and the power switch or something and that the newer model wasn't able to do this?

Also, because it has variable speed - what is a good speed to work with?

I found this and this. Any input on these?

u/Renevence · 0 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm finding some cheap stuff on Amazon right now, that's why I assumed that I'd be able to get all of this for under $100... For example: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722759&sr=8-2&keywords=polisher

Thanks for the advice on the wiki though :)