Best power rotary tools according to redditors

Yea I have the Dremel 7700 Multipro with the coarse grinding bands. Just takes 2-3 quick passes per nail to grind them flat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_e8i7wbRQW0SFZ

Edit:add link

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

​

A regular file - $8 (optional)

​

If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

A little how-to:

1. Cut stencils from 110-lb paper
   
   
2. mark stencil mirrored on back of record
   
   
3. (i use a) Dremel Tool with these bits
   
   
4. The trick is to learn how the "burn" comes off of the record while you cut in order to get clean edges
   
   
5. Trim frayed label and rough edges with small Xacto blade.
   
   
6. Wipe with vinyl cleaner.
   

Buy a [dremel] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/181-8200334-7124564?qid=1396637056&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40). [Video] ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH-tfjU1ruc).

Try a dremel if you have not already. The pressure from those clippers can be irritating even if they don't touch the quick

Amazon sells a nicer black and decker for only $30 http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Less attachments, but I used one for ~5 years before I lost it

I'm a man and I give myself pedicures every couple weeks. Granted, I use a Dremel with a sanding attachment to do it at upwards of 25,000 RPM's so it's a bit more "manly" I suppose.

here's a knockoff dremel for thirteen bucks. how much is your time worth?

I press X for doubt when she mentions this episode cost more in one day than others combined, so I searched for the said Mandoline and Dremel. Found the Dremel on Amazon and the exact site she showed which totaled a whopping $64+$176. Is it really more than all seasons combined? If it is then damn, Gourmet Makes is really much cheaper than what I thought

Amazon has dremel 4000 set for $44.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG/

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

Can you afford to drop $110 on a proper workspace? If so, buy the following:

• 48" x 24" Folding Table
  
• 2 x Swing Arm Desk Lamp
  
• Power Strip with 6' Cord
  
• Screws
  
• Zip ties
  
  

1. Use a power screwdriver to attach the two lamp bases to the corners of the table.
   
   
2. Photocopy the underside of the power strip. Using this photocopy as a guide, install 2 screws into the underside of the table and then attach the power strip to the underside of the table.
   
   
3. Insert the first lamp into its base and plug it into the power strip. Gather up the excess cord and secure it with a zip tie. Repeat with the second lamp.
   
   
4. Plug the power strip into a wall.
   
   Congratulations, you now have a 4' x 2' workspace with excellent lighting that is easy to disassemble and tuck under your bed or against a wall.
   
   You can store your paints in a lidded box, such as the ones that most GW vehicle models are sold in. When you have more money to invest in a workspace, I recommend picking up a paint organizing system. I personally use The Rack Paint Master with an additional small straight section. This nearly perfectly reaches from one end of the table to the other, leaving a large area in which to paint. The nice thing about the Rack is that it splits apart for easier storage. Still will take up some space, but it's nice if you need to put away your entire workspace.
   
   As you expand your collection of tools, you can add a micro dremel, which is super useful (especially if you have to pin lots of metal models), and you'll already have a place to plug in the charger.

I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

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Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

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If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

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Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

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Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

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For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

• Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.
  
  
• Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).
  
  
• eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)

I use this thing. It's cheap, comes with plenty of attachments, and cuts through springs and aluminum stock just fine. The cutting wheels it comes with suck though, so plan to spend another couple bucks on some that are properly reinforced.

WEN 2307 Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit with 100-Piece Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5AzPub0GVDG02

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-8050-N-18-Rotary-Accessories/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1GBB19K4MW2HE&keywords=dremel+tool&qid=1572760512&sprefix=dreme%3B%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-12

I love this one. I've used the pet version and hate it.

Depends how you treat it. It's not as sturdy as the little plastic cases and I definitely wouldn't use it as my main carrying case if I were working out of a truck or something. But if it's tucked away in a corner (Like it will be with me) and you just go to it for things you don't use regularly, it'll last.

It went back to $200 in the 40 minutes since I posted. Too bad titles can't be edited...
Link

Dremel. Haven’t torn in over three years since buying this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BACCDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524420440&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=drimmel&dpPl=1&dpID=31J1yFAxAlL&ref=plSrch

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Hopefully you enjoyed the process, so there will be more wood pipes to come from you.

You can get a WEN rotary tool kit for $20. It fits the standard Dremel bits. You'd need to get a set of wood carving bits, which would run you maybe $10. With the flex shaft it's just like using a power knife.

You can get a cheap rotary tool that'll probably do the job fine

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool


Just use the brown one that’s for sanding and start on the lowest setting and move it around his feet only touching him the the end of it,the battery part, To get him used to the noise.
It should last you a good while since you’re only doing his feet. Good luck and I hope it helps :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8DXKXS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609770&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=corded+dremel&dpPl=1&dpID=416s2AicPtL&ref=plSrch this one looks like it'd fit your needs. The biggest difference in dremels is how powerful they are. You aren't trying to router through inches thick wood or metal so you don't need anything extra fancy. I have found that bit sizes are not universal though, so mind that detail when purchasing accessories.

I've recently bought this from amazon. Reviews seem pretty good in comparison to Dremels, but there are a lot more reviews.

Edit: it's also 15 dollars, 20 with the flex shaft.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

Just get a black and decker or harbor freight model, they all do the same thing and most are compatible with most dremel brand tooling.

This is what I use and have cut a lot of metal with it, still holding up.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-Rotary-Storage/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341409647&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rotary+tool

I use one of these

I recommend Proxxon. Excellent quality without breaking the bank. I have this model and it is an absolute champ. The motor will sustain its RPM even with resistance and won't burn out on you after a project or two like some Dremels are known to.

Devotion to one deity or another is a little bit of a touchy subject around here, so I won't go into that, but if you want to make an amber pendant with a rune on it, I don't think anyone would argue.

If it were me, I would start with something pre-polished like this and then either buy or borrow a rotary tool such as the Dremel in that link and carve it yourself. Fill with enamel or paint, you can find smaller quantities at a hobby store, to make it more visible. If you use a latex-based paint, you'll want to seal the whole bead with a polyproplene (sp?) or something similar. Then use the same tool or a drill to drill a small hole in it and put it on a cord, or you can find jewelry mounts on Amazon as well but they're going to be more "effeminate." With Amber, you'll want to use slow speed for carving and drilling as it could be a little more fragile. You could also find a pre-drilled bead and do the same thing, I saw some on Amazon doing that search that had reinforcing grommets out of stainless steel.

EDIT: If you're not keen to do all that work or want something more specific, there's a pendant from Jelling Dragon which is claimed to be based on a "Viking find from Sweden," looks like a mini-statue of the goddess and it only runs $24 in bronze or $42 in silver.

Not that I'm advocating vandalism or anything because that would be illegal and bad, of course, but I'm [just say'n...] (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374722229&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+operated+dremel)

>Does anyone know how to remove this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L3RUVG

If you look at how the process is done, undoing it just means cutting/grinding the weld.

Followed this tutorial.

Got everything from amazon. Went with this dremel since it came with the polish wheels. This add-on item polish.
And these for safety. (And to meet the minimum for the add-on item.)

With 0 dremel experience, it was still easy. Didn't even mess up the glass, but I'd already upgraded mine to sapphire so I can only speak for that.

It could be that she doesn't like the sound the clippers make but what I've noticed while working is that most dogs don't like the pressure you put on the nail before you actually clip them because you're trying to avoid the quick.

I'm a groomer but before I even went to school for that I use to do everything for my dogs when it came to grooming, bathing and caring for their nails. When the time came to clip the nails I would slowly put pressure on the nail so I could clip it and avoid quicking them but it would freak them out because I was doing it that way.

I looked up videos of people using peanut butter to occupy them while you're cutting the nails and to take very little bits of nail off in one quick snap of the clippers and when they didn't react to it I would praise my dogs and let them know it was okay. Most of my dogs have black nails so I did it that way and now they're all comfortable with the nail clippers and the Dremel. I kept a routine on them and cut them every 2-3 weeks so not only will they get use to it I can keep the nails short. Now I just clip them and dremel off the sharp corners.

These are the nail clippers and dremel I have and that I personally love. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ARUKQ?pc_redir=1411784168&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU?pc_redir=1411972862&robot_redir=1

You can get the clippers at Petco, Petsmart or pet supermarket and the Dremel you can find in the automotive section of Walmart.

I didn't like the pet-geared dremel, because the form was really clunky. It's shape and size was really awkward to hold against my dog's paw. They have this flared base to accommodate the battery that makes it feel unbalanced and unnatural in the hand. Did a little roaming at the hardware store and found this other Dremel branded tool. This is my preferred dremel and it's so amazing. Although it is more expensive (regularly $80, but I saw it go down to as low as $63 earlier this season):

1)it is very comfortable to hold. My hand doesn't get any fatigue using it. It's highly reviewed for people doing non-nail trimming applications because the form is so good in the hand.

2)It comes with a nifty charging station.

3)It has five speeds vs two. If you're still getting your dog used to it's nails filed, this low speed is mellow.

4) Comes with lots of other 18 accessories for other applications, making it versatile for other things around the house or projects.

5) It's pretty quiet (see video demonstrating it's sound level).

The next time you're at a hardware store, I'd recommend looking for the Dremel demos and holding it in your hand. The better shape alone vastly improved the design for dremels. Go try it out. It will feel like a dream in your hand.

A limitation of the dremel micro and other cordless dremels is that if you have multiple dogs (because you're a groomer, breeder, handler), I'd be afraid of this model running out of power. For that reason, I imagine this model wouldn't work for them as well when a corded one does the job without energy issues.

> more because of the high RPM and small surface area coverage

Yup; it's got more than enough rippems to melt your vulcanite.

The chuck/collet is also spinning at the same rate, making it really easy to accidentally take a piece out of your stem while polishing.

That's not to say you can't use it, but be cautious and look at ways of either securing the tool or the work piece, and if you can, practice on a throw away to get the hang of it.

They sell a cleaning & polishing kit.

Dremel is just a brand name that became so common that it's synonymous with the generic term "rotary tool." If someone says "Dremel" they may or may not actually mean a Dremel brand rotary tool. Like Q-tips or Frisbees or Zeppelins.

Dremel makes very good tools, but my rotary tool is a Black & Decker. The B&D is ridiculously over-powered and can be used as a drill and even a jigsaw at need, but it's also heavy and cumbersome. Some people even use dog nail grinders if they don't need a lot of power, say if you're only cutting and filing foam.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-290-05-120-Volt-Industrial-Engraver/dp/B000VZIGA0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523482250&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+engraver

worked for all my anodized and poly80 lowers.

You could just ask one of the neighbors that has one to borrow their dremel.

Seriously though, they aren't that expensive.

For raw materials, go dumpster diving and scavenge for E-Waste. You might also want to buy lots of LED lights in many different form factors. Invest in a soldering iron kit and learn how to solder. Invest in a Dremel - the most useful and versatile power tool you can own for DIY projects. Buy lots of spray paint in the "metallic" colors and get yourself a cool looking respirator while you're at it.

It will be the best 80 bucks you ever spend. They are seriously great. I had a Craftsman one but got a Dremmel 4000 for Christmas. The Dremmel is so much better in terms of quality.

You don't really need an angle grinder to cut a cable lock, I would buy a cheap rotary tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

You'd be amazed how many things that will come in handy for once you have it. (Wear safety glasses and cut it outside)

Or you could buy a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade (about $10). Will take about 10 minutes and some elbow grease to cut through it.

Or carry it to a bike shop and ask them nicely to do it for you (bring a receipt or some kind of proof of ownership).

I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oedEzb5K4TWS4
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NfdEzbEYCCFER

Look at the WEN kit on amazon. I got one last week for $20 and it came with the snake attachment to let you use it like a pen in your hand. Takes the same tools as a Dremel and even has speed control.
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

check pawn shops, or ask if any of your friends know someone who has one to borrow for a day.

They're not that expensive, and you don't need an official "Dremel" one either, just the cheapest one you can get since you might only ever use it once and that's as long as it really has to last. Think of the time you'll be spending doing other things to get it out. Your time is worth money.

​

Here's one from Canada: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dremel-minimite-cordless-rotary-tool/1000100670
Here's one from Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7000-N-6-Volt-Cordless-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XEQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Dremel+Tool&qid=1556748354&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Here's a UK One: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hi-Spec-Purpose-Engraver-Accessories-Compatible/dp/B013OYBMWI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Dremel+Tool&qid=1556748394&rnid=1642204031&s=diy&sr=1-3


don't know where you're from so I picked the most common places. Just look up Dremel Tool on your favorite online retailer, and sort price low to high. Pick up the first one that you see. It should come with the bare necessities to get the job done as far as attachments are concerned.

​

If you decide to do serious dremel work, do not use the paper cutters. Get one of the metal/composite whatever ones. They won't shatter in your face as readily and last a little longer. They're worth the money.

I bought this $16 dremel on amazon, then used blue painters tape to mask off the line I wanted to cut (took me a few tries to get the angle right). I cut the plastic with a cutoff wheel, sanded it with the sanding wheel, then finished it up by hand with some fine grit sandpaper.

I'd recommend a kit like this one. I stick with the Dremel branded kits because they're not that expensive and you never know what kind of quality you'll get with the cheaper knockoff ones.


I think a lot of people have too high expectations of what a Dremel can do. Its not a very powerful tool, and only well suited for small tasks.


For cutting metal, the 1 1/2" EZ LOCK cutting wheels are the only way to go.


The rough stone looking attachments are sanding stones, and are quite abrasive, although can break relatively easily if you put too much pressure on them. They're for rough sanding, not polishing.


You can get polishing attachments for dremels, and they work well on small things.

I've created my very first two dice! (IMAGE HERE) The A-B die is for playing Bivius. The other die is to use as a YES-NO oracle (includes symbols for Yes and, Yes, Yes but, No but, No, No and)

The painting method works fine, although it can be a little bit tricky.

Engraving them with the tool I got was easy, except that its potency doesn't last much because it uses 2 AAA batteries, and they run of juice fast! I've just bought a better tool to ensure I don't encounter such an issue anymore.

I used a power drill for 95% of the drilling. I got one of these off of amazon. I typically had the speed set to the middle speed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N68KRZ

There were some spots that I used a pin vise but not to many. I couldn't imagine doing the whole thing with a pin vise. The bits would break so easily with out some type of vise to hold the model steady. One thing that did help, which I wish I had done for the main super structure. Was to drill the holes when the pieces are still on the trees. This made it much easer and faster for the trench. For the super structure you will have to cut away a lot of material on the main component to do this. However it will be worth it. I drilled the superstructure after glueing the detailed pieces onto the main component. So I was drilling through two layers of plastic. I broke a number of bits doing that.

​

​

He used a Dremel rotary tool. It is over priced, grab the B&D model that works just as good for much cheaper.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-RTX-6-3-Speed-Accessories/dp/B0001GUDRI

What he used https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-3000-1-25-Attachment-Accessories/dp/B00LUJONH6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Dremel+3+speed+rotary+tool&qid=1563114194&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-4

One thing I can say about B&D though is their AMAZING customer service. I bought a rotary tool from them through amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001GUDRI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I received it but it didn't come with the Carving/Engraving and Grinding/Sharpening bit that was shown on the box. I emailed them and got a quick response. They sent me another one of the same product no questions asked besides what my address was. No receipt request at all just here you go.

Unfortunately the new one also did not come with the accessory and after talking to them a bit they said that it looked like if they stopped offering that accessory. I told them I had used the tool already and was still happy with it so wouldn't return it to amazon and asked them to just send me a return slip so I could send theirs back. They apologized for the confusion and said I could keep the tool for the trouble.

I thought that that was awesome, thanked them and kept it.

If you don't mind, I'd actually advise picking up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416532678&sr=8-1&keywords=Black+and+Decker+dremel

The motor is higher quality and higher amps than a Dremel, so it lasts longer, and wont burn it's self out if you start using it. Uses all the dremel accessories too! :)

Black and Decker RTX http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372710581&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rtx

Takes all the dremel accessories and is cheap.

Honestly, get a Black and Decker RTX. I had a Dremel for 15 years, LOVED it. IT's a fucking fantastic tool, probably the most used in my garage, (which includes a table saw, chop saw, router and table, RO sander, finishing sander, multiple drills, circ saw, etc. etc. etc. I have a lot of tools).

But then it died, and my sis got me an RTX. It's got a more powerful motor than even the most expensive current Dremel, (two point something amps, IIRC). It's got a really nice hands-free bit changing mechanism. It's infinitely variable, (Even though it says "3 speeds) in speed up to the max.

I've used current wired and wireless dremels, (get a wired one, by the way...much more juice), and my RTX beads them hands DOWN.

First thing that amazed me was the instant spin up time. With that powerful of a motor, when you switch it on, it's instantly doing 35,000 RPM. It's nuts. Don't let the low price make you think it's cheap. It is one SOLID tool.

I used to etch my tools with my first initial and last name. My tools at home have been etched with the last 4 of my social. I was talking to a friend that used to be an investigator for the police department. That friend said that if someone is caught stealing or with stolen property, they'll usually check everything else in their possession. If your tools are marked with your name and drivers license number, the police will be able to contact you and return your items. Also, put the abbreviated state there as well. Cops can usually identify a drivers license number when they see it and will be able to look it up in their vehicle. I've started etching my tools with a small dremel brand engraver (model: 290-01). For my bigger items (i.e; drills, circular saws, and other powertools) I will etch them with name and drivers license number, but then I will also use a black or white paint marker to write my name on it. Sharpie has different size paint markers, don't use the regular sharpie markers because they wear off after a few weeks, the paint markers tend to last a lot longer. I've even made a few different size stencils and spray painted my name on the tools. I used Microsoft Word and selected the "Stencil" font and printed out stencils, laminated them, and then cut it out with an exacto knife. It takes some time, but those stencils are re-useable and tend to last awhile. I was in the Marine Corps and they trained us to mark everything. Even our tools in our toolboxes were marked with the toolbox number, drawer, and item number within the drawer. My underwear and socks were individually marked!!

Also, another thing that I've done in the past to quickly identify my tools from others is to put hockey tape on the handles of my power tools. There's also "GAFFERS Tape" that you can buy with different colors. They're tough like duct tape, but don't leave a sticky residue when the tape is removed. I don't use electrical tape because after awhile, it'll stop being sticky and will either fall off or will just float around the handle and gets pretty annoying. Oh, and sometimes if you're out in the heat and the adhesive gets warm and oozes off and onto your hands making your hands black and sticky. Hockey tape is the tape hockey players use on their hockey sticks and they come in different colors, so if you're a hot pink man, then wrap your handles in pink hockey tape. It's sort of like that tape that's on wooden baseball bats, works great for handles on your impact driver or circular saw. You can also write your name on that part as well. I mean, this stuff was make for the grips on hockey sticks! I think it'll work on your drill. Just a few ideas..

Dremel makes a nice one too

Proxxon, NOT Dremel.

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-38481-Professional-Rotary-Tool/dp/B001FWXEO6

I've owned 3 Dremels and one Proxxon and I will never get a Dremel again.

This is especially true when considering the drill stand. The dremel one is made of plastic bullshit.

I have a Proxxon IBS/E and really like it. Doesn’t get hot and is a lot quieter than the Dremel brand rotary tools that I’ve owned (at least 5 over the years). They make a couple of different versions, but I haven’t used them myself.

this is the one i have i also have a fear of peices flying around or getting hit with them so i just wear saftely glasses and blow the chunks away when i see them, dremels have a locking mechanism so the bits are easily switchable and u can buy them for fairly cheap

I use a Dremel 7700 with 1/4" sanding bands.

My dog is way more willing to tolerate this than clippers.

It's annoying they're not easily swapped on this, but for a cheap stand I get it.

Just as a side note, the Dremel 7700 is $30 on Amazon right now if you're in the market or would rather go that route.

For future note, if your screw starts to strip, get some penetrating oil like PB Blaster before putting too much muscle into it. Stripping a screw will make it very difficult to get out.

I started stripping a couple screws on my stove, used PB Blaster and was able to get all but one out without stripping. For that last screw, I had to use a Dremel saw (like this) to grind out a crevice and bust it out with a flathead.

If you can't find the exact same screw after this process, make sure to degrease the screws (and the whole) before putting them back in so they're less likely to get stuck again.

This would be fine.

I got one of these. I think an angle grinder might be too big/scary, plus the open wheel might catch fur.

Got this kit works great so far. The keyless chuck works fine too I got.

Which piece are you talking about to sand down the MVP?

Got this too

this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top which is unfortunately unavailable at amazon right now, is what i'v got. I actually prefer it Immensely for fine work because of the different grip. If you can find one, I highly recommend it.

Oh, I should have mentioned, I use either a pin vice or a dremel to make drill out the holes. On a related note, if you're interested in conversions a small cordless dremel (I use this one) is one of the best tools to have around.

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I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B002L3RUVG, I like the multiple speeds because we use so many different types of materials. Higher speeds for grinding plaster, lower speeds for plastic or polishing if you dare.

LINK Three styles of kits there, depending on how many extra things you want, but you could always get the base kit and get the individual parts as needed.

This one is variable speed, which is nice

Time to make a window.

A good dremel kit like this one is perfect :
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1452695783&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Start Here

Found one

I use the Dremel 4000 and it has been very nice. The one in the link is the one I bought and it comes in a carrying case with a ton of accessories. The one I use the most is the flex shaft attachment, as it allows me to have a much smaller device in my hand and control where I'm cutting much easier. I got mine on sale, but the price its listed at is very much worth it.

On Amazon the Wen 2305 and up have pretty good reviews. Same with the Black And Decker one you suggested.

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U240xb88A6B97

Are the collets universal?

Thanks for the help.

Thanks! Just keep the damn thing moving! When a rotating bit sits in one place to long it will create happy little accidents.

edit: that particular tool is on amazon.

yea I have to agree with you there

Heres a great cheap Rotary Tool- https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B003BYRFH8?th=1&psc=1

Home Depot is apparently going to have it in stores soon.

moar power!!! https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481658063&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel

Just so you know I ordered this dremel for $20 on Amazon and it works great. Time is money!! Halloween approacheth! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BYRFH8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

jI own a very old Craftsman version of this:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7000-N-6-Volt-Cordless-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XEQ/

Been pretty happy with it, especially that after 10 years the battery still holds a charge (mine is a NiCad version, I'm thinking of buying this and using Eneloops with it.)

ok, here you go:

• Metal Comb
  
• Pin Brush
  
• Detangler
  
• Clippers - I use these but Wahl is also really good
  
• Different Blades - if you get the Andis Clipper
  
• Metal comb attachments - get these and not the cheap plastic ones
  
• Grooming Table - This is optional but if you have a wiggly pup like I do, they're helpful. If you get this you should also get these
  
• Dremel for nails
  
  Now keep in mind that I plan on doing 95% of the grooming for the rest of my pups life. Since he's a standard poodle, a full groom would cost me anywhere from $75 to $120 (every 4 to 6 weeks) due to his size. So, for me, investing in all of the above will save me a lot of money in the long run.
  
  *Edit - If you go this route and get your own clippers - make sure you get some blade cleaner/oil, I use this

I just use a Dremel Mini Mite though you might need to step up to the next more powerful one for a big dog.

I don't use clippers at all. Too nervous about cutting the quick and generally my dogs have done better with a dremel. I mean they still don't like it but once they get used to it they don't try to get away as much. The only catch is to be careful to not dremel too much as it will get hot and can burn the quick. But on high speed I can take off 2-3 weeks worth of growth in a few seconds (depends on the dog and how hard/large their nails are). Plus it leaves things nice and rounded so it's not as rough on floors/skin.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1368719810&sr=1-5

This will technically get the job done, but, like I said, it might take significantly longer without the diamond bit.

This is the one I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XFU

It was so inexpensive, I figured why not.

Looks like the 4200 kit is just north of your 100 dollar budget on Amazon


I own the Dremel 3000 and it works pretty well for the little project here and there. However that 4200 does have some cool attachments.

Yea it's electric. It's not really a nail filer though... more of a rotary tool for general use. This is the model I have. It comes with a lot of different attachments: wire bushes, sanding drums, grinding stones, grinding wheels, small rotary files or burrs, maybe some more stuff so it's pretty useful around the house too.

My mom got me into it because she's involved with greyhound rescue groups and their nails are in really bad shape when they come off the tracks. Using clippers, they had way too many blood-spraying, dog-helping-in-pain-accidents. Clippers are easy to overshoot your intended cut and cut the quick and they're also known for splitting nails in half or muliple pieces, either right when you cut it or if they snag a small piece on the carpet it can rip off the splintered part of the nail.

My mom swears by [this extension](
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HS02GVFVQ5Z8AQDSF7G) that allows the noise of the electric motor to be a few feet away. I don't have one these.


Then when you run out of sanding drums that came with your dremel, you can but a lifetime supply for [$8.99]
(http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-sand-coarse-Mandrel-dremel/dp/B00564U22G/ref=pd_sim_469_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=41G2GNphVlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0YAGTNM5J58CC1PVN0B9)

Edit: Dremel must have caught on, they now sell a specific pet grooming model. I can't speak for it but it looks quite a bit smaller than mine, I'll admit mine is a little overkill but I use it for other things too.

it's actually one of the Amazon Deals of the Day if you want to look yourself.

sure, to drill the hole i used a sanding bit like the sixth from the left on the main product image here: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-3000-2-28-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B005JRJE7Y

then the led that goes inside is this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/105

basically you make the larger hole below and a tiny one above the egg. when you have the two holes, you can gently blow air from the upper hole to take everything inside to empty the shell.

actually that's about it :). rest is fixing the led with a hot glue. if you decide to do it with a fixed color led then all you need to do is to wire it up to a battery. if you want it to be able to change color as well then it needs a little bit of coding. I used arduino to make it constantly change it's hue. though the code is on my desktop, i can share it too when I get to it.

This is the one I own. Its great for modding cases. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_SjfTub0RWAMHX

FWIW - I bought this rotary tool from amazon when I put together my STC-1000 project box and it worked really well. It doesn't seem too expensive for what it is, nor does it seem like a POS (but what do I know about tools?).

Rotary tools start at $20 on amazon.

http://amzn.com/B00A8DXKXS

Check amazon vs home Depot or Lowe's. If you think you'll ever use any of the stuff in the combo kit, the kits are great. And with it I would just buy one of the assortment attachment kits that comes with different drum Sanders, polishers, cut off wheels, etc. I'd you don't think you'll ever use the other tools in the combo kit, I'd still recommend getting the corded version that comes in that kit.

Dremel CKDR-02 Ultimate 3-Tool Combo Kit with 15 Accessories and Storage Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLJ3AR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f5cmDbGY3PQ3A

Dremel Rotary Tool Accessory Kit- 710-08- 160 Accessories- EZ Lock Technology- 1/8 inch Shank- Cutting Bits, Polishing Wheel and Compound, Sanding Disc and Drum, Carving, Sharpening, and Engraving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHGJHMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c6cmDbZ76X0DA

Some additions to /u/iNeedAValidUserName's list (sorry if it wasn't clear, we own the same dogs):

• Dremel was about $80-90. You can find "pet dremels" for cheaper but for dogs especially bigger ones with hard, big nails, you don't wanna cheap out on it. This one was on sale a few days ago and is an example of a higher quality one, unsure if it is still. You can also pay someone to do it for you at about $12 a pop. We got burned on that with our first dog though and are living through the consequences so we are doing all the maintenance and grooming ourselves, at least for a little while, for this puppy.
  
• Training classes are pretty cheap around here in relation to the cost of living because we are blessed with some of the best dog trainers in the country within the Bay Area of all styles of training, and people who have trained under them/use their techniques. I really suggest you take training classes early on, it will make your life so much easier, and if neither of you guys are experienced with dogs, good puppy classes. Sirius is a pretty good school founded by Ian Dunbar and is about $200 for 5 sessions; you can start taking classes as early as 8 weeks old. I usually mention it to novice pet dog owners because it teaches you a lot about dog behavior and stuff like housebreaking. We take classes elsewhere, as we have experience puppy rearing - Deep Peninsula DTC trains on Mondays at Rengstorff Park and has a puppy class which is $90/session. We really like Reena, the trainer there and we were really happy to get a spot there; the class is outdoors though which is an insanely distracting environment. A lot of novice or first-time dog owners can get frustrated in this kind of environment. Our "main" dog training club is Town & Country DTC in San Jose, which trains Thursday nights. We love their program as a whole and they don't have a regular "puppy" class, but a beginner class you can start your dog at 4 months at. It's all the same to me. The trainers for that class are fantastic. Everyone teaches things a little bit differently so it's good to know a few different methods just in case your puppy doesn't respond to one of them.
  
• If you want your dog to socialize with age appropriate puppies it's good to do that while they are smaller as many have size restrictions of 15-20 pounds. Adobe Dog Training hosts it Saturday morning for $15 in Los Altos but we never got to bring our puppy there because there is a size restriction. Places like Petsmart and Costco have them too.
  
• Age-appropriate chews can get pretty expensive. We use 12" bully sticks with our puppy and we bought a huge bulk pack of them before we brought him home for $45 on an Amazon flash sale. Packs that size are like $60 a bag from most vendors. Occasionally they sell them at Costco.
  
• You can probably buy an okay high velocity dryer for around $250 on Amazon. We just want a specific one for our purposes. You can also take your dog to Pet Food Express in Palo Alto and wash em to the tune of $15/wash, or about $12 if you buy them 4 at a time.
  
• I noticed some people on r/samoyeds have been recommending harnesses to you guys for loose leash walking. This is good, but a caveat - harnesses will often times get really pricy because your puppy is growing very quickly. Another thing is that some harnesses do restrict movement or can change your dog's gait in not a good way, so it's good to speak to your breeder about it before buying one. Mine pretty much strongly discourages her buyers from buying Easy Walk harnesses. We are currently training our dog to LLW with a variety of layered training methods so we currently have him only on a martingale collar, no harness, and don't need to use collar corrections. We do go through a lot of cheese, though. Part of the reason for this is because we want him to pull under different contexts in the future and we want to actually have him associate harnesses with it being okay to pull.
  
• Ah yes, tangential puppy damage. My lower energy small dog destroyed my $120 pair of glasses, my $200 handbag, and a custom 100 ft. ethernet cable in less than a week once she started teething. So that is something to have to prepare for. Our dog isn't teething yet and the most he's done is put an inch tear in the shoes I wear to work every day, but we are nowhere near out of the woods yet.

I'm sorry to hear it, that sounds very sad and it must be tough to try to get her to a confident and happy place (although it sounds like she is in a very happy place living with you!). I imagine changing owners must be really hard on a dog also, especially one that is as glued to its people as dobes usually are, which could maybe make even previously normal things scary too.


I have this dremel (with the sander, not the pumpkin carving tip, of course...) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DVN4E4/r - the smaller rechargeable ones like this one still make noise but they're quieter than the big plug-in full size Dremel.

Hello, I found this Damascus Steel Billet with a predrilled bearing slot for $45. I am considering purchasing it for a DIY fidget spinner. I would imagine either doing a simple design with 6 circular cuts where the circle rings are or doing a bar design with custom engraved skulls on each side.

I would prefer to do a bar design with this type of design on each bar face (more simple as its my first time)

Skull example

My concern would be balancing issues and the equipment I would need to cut and mold this design. I would test on softer materials first obviously to get the design right. Here are my main questions -

1. Would this dremel work to cut and shape damascus steel? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4300-9-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B01LZVVA58/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=dremel&qid=1559104711&s=gateway&sr=8-27
   
2. How would I balance each side, what's the best way to measure the weight of each side independently?
   
3. Any tips from someone who has worked with metal work / dremels.
   
4. If the tool above won't work, can someone link me to a proper tool?

Link for US buyers: https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ

I use a 220 grit sanding sponge on my copper mod. But I don't mind the little scuff marks it leaves. Or you could pick up a polishing kit..Amazon has them for $12.

Dremel 684-01 20-Piece Clean & Polish Rotary Tool Accessory Kit With Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005LEXV/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NsMbub0DDVGQS

Yep, a buffer and rouge will make it a mirror now. You can actually do it with a Dremel tool and small felt wheels. Dremel sells a polishing kit that comes with the felt wheels and a mandrel for them, and a small amount of rouge, should be everything you need.

https://smile.amazon.com/Dremel-684-01-20-Piece-Polish-Accessory/dp/B00005LEXV

Build list:

Zev Dragonfly Slide

Trijicon RMR 06 Type 2

Zev Glock 19 Dimpled Bronze Match Barrel

AmeriGlo GL-429 Suppressor Sights

TTI Spring Kit

SSVi Tyr Trigger

Glock OEM Minus Connector

​

Tools used:

Wood Burner

Dremel Micro Max 8050

Dremel Bit 108 Engraving Cutter

Dremel Polishing Kit

Sand Paper Assortment

Flitz Polish

Mother's Mag Polish on a Dremel with the Jewelry cleaning attachments.

Mothers

Polishing Kit

I'd recommend getting a rotary tool ($46 for a B&D one on amazon, plus plastic cutting bits) instead of the hole saw, it's a more universal tool that can pretty easily cut circles in plastic for a bit more money. I just used mine last night to cut holes in lids and it worked like a charm.

The first thing to use is Frame Protector for the inside of the frame. This can be messy so do this first. Next a brass wire brush on an electric drill or better yet on Dremel-type tool. Third thing is VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.. This stuff is amazing. It will turn your rust to a mineral that can be sanded off. Lastly, prep for paint. You can get in all the nooks and crannies with these and these. Do not try to paint it yourself. You suck at it. Take it to a motorcycle painter and if you ask for clear he will just hang it next to a motorcycle tank or fender and do them both at the same time. Should cost next to nothing if your prep is good.

Edit: sp

It's not quite $15, but I have one of these and it's built like a tank and really powerful for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

I got a Black and Decker rotary tool last October and its amazing, variable speeds up to 30,000 rpm. it was a gift but purchased from target for around $29.99+Tax Than picked up a 249 piece attachment kit from harbor freight for $21.99+ tax

So far it has handled every task I've had from sanding wood pipes to carving channels for air flow. Even a few sculptures. The links below is exactly what I'm working with.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

http://www.harborfreight.com/249-piece-rotary-tool-accessory-set-93243.html

I use a Dremel 4000, but you can probably get away with some Black and Decker for most jobs.

If you're doing straight cuts, I actually just use a fine tooth saw to make the cuts, sand down with sandpaper, and let the paint cover up everything else smoothly.

Wear a mask when cutting the plastic up and work in the garage.

I use a black and decker dremel knockoff. It's bulkier, but seems pretty well built and is about half the cost. Works with dremel accessories too. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Make sure to get one with variable speeds. I use mine a lot, so the finer control comes in handy. If you just need a tool that will get the job done, Black & Decker make the 3 speed RTX-B for about $30 and it works great.

More important in this case though is to have a proper plastic cutting/shaping tool. The trick with plastic is removing the material without melting all of it. They make special cutting bits for wood and plastics, which honestly I wish they'd made a lot sooner. It'll still melt some of the softer plastics if you go too fast but is miles ahead of the high-speed steel cutters..

More like 30, a million is a bit of stretch too, I'd prefer an angle grinder myself.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520055&sr=8-6&keywords=dremel

No worries happy to help.

As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.

Yes tiny details can be hard! Depending on how small it's going to be, my suggestion would be to use a nail file and/or a dremel. Epoxy may not be needed for small things like that.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-290-05-120-Volt-Industrial-Engraver/dp/B000VZIGA0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=engraver&qid=1549881728&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

Your next tool, when one of the others gets "borrowed"

The proxxon (I have this one) just seems much more robust than any of the Dremels I've handled. Solid metal and plastic casing, with an easy to use speed adjustment and very well made accessories (clamp . I also find it to be significantly quieter in operation. It fits all the same bits as a Dremel also. There may well be Dremels made in the past 5 years that compare, since I haven't tried one in a while, but I've been very happy with the Proxxon and have burned out the motor on a Dremel before.

1. Now this is a goblet worthy of a queen. And honey you should see me in a crown.
   
   
2. Every witch should look her best. These face brooms should help me out!
   
   
3. Sure, the hat completes my look, but this will make sure that the hair underneath is just as fabulous.
   
   
4. Sure, this may not be much of a stretch as far as explanations go, but how much more fitting could you get? (PS - It was even on my wishlist before today!).
   
   
5. I would be HORRIFIED if my chest were to look like just any one I could have snagged at Amazon-Alley. This will ensure that I can customize it to be completely unique!
   
   Bonus: This is one classy cape. I have to look my best when I'm off campus!

Thanks everyone for the advice everyone, I probably would have bought them had I found them yesterday, but I decided to go the DIY route. Since picking must be a very budget conscious hobby for me, I went ahead and took the plunge and bought the important tools. I figured making my own pins would be difficult and require a lot of crazy equipment, but I looked into it and realized it was a lot easier than expected. So just for anyone who's curious, here's what I got:

• $50 Kwikset rekey/pin set from eBay. 200 of each type of pins, 8 types of pins. Clips, followers, springs, and anything else needed to reassemble locks. That leaves enough pins to make absolutely every security pin that I know of, as well as any others that I find from watching people pick challenge locks. There are a good variety of these sets, so you can save some money here by getting only 50 or 100 of each pin type if you prefer. I just decided to start off big so I hopefully never have to buy another.
  
• $35 Rotary Tool. Used for a huge variety of DIY projects, including and excluding lockpicking. There are some cheaper options, but in my opinion you're better off buying at least a decent one to start so you don't have to upgrade later.
  
• $7 Needle File Set. Used in conjunction with your rotary tool as cutting/smoothing tools
  
• $25 Base Vice. Also is very useful for holding locks while picking.
  
   
  
  So in total $112 for all the components needed to make as many locks as I can imagine, many of which can be used for other projects.
  
   
  
  To add supplies for a few other DIY projects I also added:
  
  
• $6 Rotary Tool Bit Set. Used for various DIY projects.
  
• $9 Cutting Wheels for your Rotary tool.
  
• $6 Wood Plank. I'll use this along with the dremel bit set above to make a nice pinning tray.
  
• $2 12" x 0.5" x 0.023" Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge. Used to make picks, tension rods, etc. making it $2 per 2-3 tools. If the thickness you want is expensive/in short supply on amazon you can buy directly from the manufacturer here but in my experience the shipping is slower and the price is usually a ~$0.10 higher per 12" rod. If you really get into making DIY tools you can buy stainless steel feeler coils from easterngage which are 25' x 0.5" x 0.15"/0.18"/0.23"/0.25"/0.26" or any thickness you want really. For 25', depending on the thickness it'll cost you anywhere from $50.64 to $64.95. You might need the 1" wide coils for making double sided tension tools.
  
   
  
  So another $21 brings it to $133 plus $2 per 2-3 tools that you need. Add in this $6 case and a few $4-$6 practice locks around aliexpress (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 5th, 6th, 7th), and you've got a great starter kit that sets you up to DIY anything you might need in the future. I also took advantage of Peterson's mega christmas sale (plus the 10% discount code they gave us) and got a ~$25 order of $1-$3 picks to start me off

Dremel like this one: http://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449113974&sr=8-7&keywords=dremel+7 ?

I'm looking at getting a rotary tool for Nerf mods (and other stuff), so this review couldn't have been more timely.

Does anyone knowledgable have an opinion on this versus the Dremel 7700 Cordless on sale for $35 on Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1425392723&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel#customerReviews

Thank you for the information! My older dog's nails are too long and I'm afraid they'll cause additional damage the hardwood floors. I'll try your method, though I'm terrified of hitting the quick. If I use the dremel, they won't bleed too bad? Really?!

Also - OP - This is the dremel that I have. I absolutely love it!

I'm training the puppy (4months old) right now. I have my husband hold the dog and I turn on the dremel. After the pup calms down, we give her a treat. Then I gently touch each of her nails one by one with the dremel. Give her a treat. Each time we "clip" her nails, I hold the dremel to her nail a little longer than the time before. Always lots of praise & treats when she's done. So far, she's doing great and I got her fully trimmed this past week!

Now...time to do it again!

If it is the same as this one that I found on Amazon, I held it at Home Depot and really found it comfortable, but I didnt get it because I thought it wouldn't be powerful. I am going to go and try them both, but since I would be using it for the occasional job around the house I think the cordless one will be sufficient.

My Dremel has a speed control... I don't know details about all the models so I'll Google search that now to check.

Looks like there's several models of Dremel that has variable speed: https://www.dremel.com/en_US/tools/-/subcategory/tool/find-by-category/27343/rotary

I think I have the Dremel 4000: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_6?&qid=1563304627&s=gateway&sr=8-6

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG

Hahah, i see.

I looked around web and found this awesome kit, is it good enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG?th=1

You could have saved if you got everything off Amazon:

Dremel 4000 = $73

15 100mm x 3mm brass rods = $8

36 Sheets of sandpaper = $8

Flex Shaft = $20

12 Euro Tools Needle Files = $14

2 Day trial of Amazon Prime (Includes free 2 day shipping) = $2

The files are more expensive than the $3 ones you find in Harbor Freight but you get two of every nice and sharp profile Including the Knife that helps you to get into tight spaces to make things like ASSA Gin Spools!

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG

ahh ok i wanted to avoid any battery units because i already know it would die in the middle of working.

Is this the dremel you got? It seems like they have a lot of different Dremel 4000 models with huge price differences

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501452157&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+4000

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=dremel+3000&qid=1572396169&s=hi&sr=1-6 < i assume this with the dremal grout bit + removal kit?

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me [email protected] if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

1. Not sure if this counts, but I'm getting it for my boyfriends birthday...
   
   
2. Simon Pegg is English, Game of Thrones is English, and I need a beanie
   
   
3. I will write a book on this and I'll read it? God, I'm sorry, This is horrible.
   
   
4. Ha! Bet you weren't expecting these, were you?
   
   
5. I need a new flash drive...
   
   
6. The Knight Bus is purple.
   
   
7. A game.
   
   
8. I love steampunk.
   
   
9. A Dremel
   
   
10. Triforce key chain.
    
    
11. I can organize my DnD dice?
    
    
12. DnD is a hobby. Right?
    
    
13. This is kinda nerdy...
    
    
14. Turtles are totally natural.
    
    
15. Cthulu is very green.
    
    
16. Shirt
    
    
17. I find this funny
    
    
18. I'm still scared of the dark, and I could string these together as beads...
    
    
19. I can cut down some trees?
    
    
20. I need one of these
    
    Bonus:Mats?
    
    Happy happy cakeday!!!!!
    
    

Shaver

For doing mods like this a Dremel is a must have. I started using a Grinding blade to cut the fan holes but that melts the plastic and makes a mess. Using circular saw blades that actually cut away material makes working with plastic much easier. A standard drill and Philips head screw driver were the only other tools I used. All you need is the right inspiration after that. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RCZ1GL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

A flex-shaft is a great all-around tool, but you'd have to get one that has a drill press attachment for the hand tool for that specific function. The set I know of with that configuration is the Foredom flex shaft and drill press.

You can also get similar functionality out of a dremel drill press that works with most current dremel tools.

I got this

I'm an aspiring hacker and I really need a Dremel. Specifically this one: Dremel 4000-6/50 120-Volt Variable Speed Rotary Kit

I bought this when my Dremel shit the best. I've carved the shoulders off Gold Dollars with it without problems.

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

I live in Vancouver. My glass is literally out of a photo frame that I got at Dollarama for $2.5. Nothing fancy.

I cut it to size using my dremel https://www.amazon.ca/2305-Rotary-Tool-Flex-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501045676&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel with these wheels https://www.amazon.ca/SE-DW13-5-Piece-Diamond-Wheels/dp/B000P49NCC

I attached the glass with 4 binder clips, each measuring 15mm in width. Also from Dollarama; a pack for a Loonie.

Few tips. If you do this, get 2 or 3 frames because you will probably end up cracking your first one as I did. Also be safe. You need to protect your eyes, your hands, and your breath. Again, don't really have to be fancy. For my eye protection I was wearing just my glasses. I also had some good fitting working gloves (any comfortable slightly thick gloves would do) and I wore a surgical mask for protection from glass dust (a slightly damp cloth covering your mouth and nose would work fine too)

Alternatively, you could do this the normal and easy way and use an actual glass cutting tool https://www.amazon.ca/L-TMS-Professional-Handle-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B06X9GRGGD I didn't have one at hand to I just used my dremel.

Don't know if you have a rotary tool already, but I just ordered this one from Amazon. Great reviews and wildly cheap.

I bought mine because it came with a case and had a nice speed adjustment.

Can't really say I'd recommend a Dremel to anyone though. Don't really think they outperform the cheaper alternatives considering how much more they cost.

For instance I paid more for the Dremel flexible shaft than this entire kit.

I like it raw like u/overlyapologeticguy.

I don't really have any funny stories about that type "cough" protection.

Other protection related story. Was trying to tan before going on a date one time. Didn't think I would need any tanning lotion or anything like that. Well the employee recommended I try the lowest strength bed for 10 minutes... so I did. Holy shit. I was fine for about an hour and then it started. I was so freaking red all over my entire body. I'm a ginger so I burn really easily. Even the inside of my ears was bright red. It was so bad that my freckles all turned this weird shade of green. I spent the next several hours in a bathtub full of cool water and baking soda. It took about a week before my entire body peeled off in giant disgusting chunks of skin. So painful.

Long story short, I've accepted that I come in two shades. Snow white and tomato red.

I've been wanting this rotary tool kit so I can hopefully fix some small rust spots on my car before they spread any more.

Thanks for the contest.

You'll need to buy a new trigger but you will be able to put a cylinder drop in into this gearbox. If the spartan triggerboard does not fit because of a certain pin (like mine did) you can dremel anything thats in the way. Here's a trigger and here's the cheap dremel i used to fit the board in.

This $20 bad boy has outlived 2 Dremels and a Milwaukee and I have abused the shit out of it.

I think I may have found a solution:

• WEN 2305-KC Keyless rotary tool chuck adjusts to accept any bit from 1/32" to 1/8", about $7
  
• WEN 2305 rotary tool, about $20
  
  That should allow me to insert brass rod of any pin-sized diameter and make my own pins. I will just need to figure out a way to hold the rotary tool steady. Hopefully it'll fit in my vise.

I have this tool. It has a speed control, so I turn it to slow (ish) for drilling. It has a flex shaft so you can hold the tool end a bit more like a pencil or brush when working. I've used it for cutting and sanding/filing as well as drilling.

I had to buy some extra collets to hold my smaller drill bits.

I will say however that most of what I use it on are metal models (I'm an old-hammerer) and like others have said a hand turned drill may be fine on plastics.

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JhLbBbSFQ2VMG I got this one for 20 bucks and it works perfectly.

Do you have any recommendations on sets or brands for a hack saw and set of files? I was looking at a 8" bastard file but then I saw a 3 set where one is round, one flat, one curved. Also I do need a hacksaw that can cut metal rods the size of a pencil. That would be a lot cheaper than $100+ on a dremel. If I got any rotary tool it would probably just be the $20 Wen I'm going to try only because it's so cheap and maybe I'll get lucky and it will work well enough - https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525717920&sr=8-3&keywords=wen+tool

Yeah, I've done this on a few pieces with a crap rotary tool I bought off of Amazon. Works pretty darn well actually.

This one actually... I say crap because it is pretty cheap but it has actually worked just as well if not better than my wife's Dremel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Totally feel ya, these are some very soft screws. It sucks to have to do this but if you've exhausted the top three tricks for getting screws out you might have to dremel them out with a cutting disk.

​

I bought $30 worth of tools and screws to do this and it's easy if you have steady hands, like the kind you get from handling tiny screws for a day ;) . Just cut a slot straight across the screw and then use a slotted (flat) screwdriver to take it out. I had to do a little damage to get a deep enough cut on the screw - here's the result with new screw - https://imgur.com/pqDU519

​

This is all I used

Rotary Tool - This came with cut-off disks that worked on the stripped soft screws.

Screws - These replacement screws had all 3 of the right sizes for my XPS 15 9570, I suspect they will fit the XPS 13 but please check first. These screws are Phillips head and none have stripped on me in the last year.

Personally I ordered this one and it's been fine. Granted I am not using the tool a great deal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8

I bought a cheapo Wen off of Amazon. For the price of a Dremel^^TM accessory kit, I get a whole tool, accessories, and flex shaft (the accessories were so-so, but with the money I saved I was able to buy other fittings for it)... For what I need a rotary tool for, this one fits perfect. I've used many Dremel^^TM brand tools before, and this one is just as good.

Here's the thing with rotary tools tho, they're light duty. They're great for small/odd jobs, but if you're doing anything more than a few minutes work, an air die grinder and/or cut off wheel will be about 1000x better.

What do you need a rotary tool for?

This is the exact dremel that I used. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7000-N-6-Volt-Cordless-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XEQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XEQ

I found two listings on amazon but they both look identical (one is more expensive). Are either of these the ones you're referring to?

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-PT-Nail-Grooming-Kit/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

My co-worker has this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/
It works really well, but I'm not sure how long she's had it. I have the one from your link and my battery no longer holds a charge. Useless.

Do you think this would be powerful enough? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466142528&sr=8-4&keywords=dremel

Is this good enough to cut tubing? All I'm getting is dog grooming comments lol

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1517442945&sr=1-5&keywords=dremel

Here's what I have: A non-pet specific Dremel with two speeds.

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c-pXBbYTSENXG

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HHYW4TGC2AZQBSSFZQFG?

Unfortunately I was hoping to use RGB LEDS, I can't believe I didn't specify that. Sorry about that, I edited it in. Would you be able to explain the common cathode vs common anode? I'll be looking it up but just to make sure I have the right idea for it.

 

I'll more than likely be using a relay at first, following tlucas's comment above just to get a bit of a better understanding but will be pushing to move over to a more complicated setup using transistors as they seem to be more efficient.

 

Ah yes I had picked out a multimeter but is there a type that you would suggest? I wouldn't be against learning how to make a board, i've looked at tutorials and it seems reasonably simple for just a basic board with no special features. I looked into the materials for a board, but the only thing I haven't figured out is the dremel. Should I go with a handheld one or would a standing one be better?

Edit: It seems like the standing one would be better, however people aren't too fond of that one I linked, I may end up going with a drill press

Get yourself a small Dremel: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373437623&sr=8-3&keywords=cordless+dremel

Insert a thin dowel like a toothpick or cocktail stir into the Dremel head, then wrap some masking tape around the dowel such that the tacky side faces out.

Fit a bead snugly onto the tape. Now sand the nubs down by running the Dremel and holding the bead as it spins against some sand paper affixed to a firm surface (or use a sanding stick: http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Sanding-Stick-Coarse/dp/B000CDM4OU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373437785&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+sanding+stick). Keep the sanding surface wet to carry away the dust.

You can use finer and finer grits to polish the beads to a shine.

I used this technique on my MG Marasai. This is a really quick way to sand those tiny things and it will make them buttery smooth. If you do this right, there will be no stress mark where the nub used to be.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485328266&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dremel+minimite&dpPl=1&dpID=41pjRg6Q9LL&ref=plSrch


If you cut a dog's nails instead of filling, you risk hitting the quick (which not only bleeds, but hurts like hell and makes the dog HATE having his nails done afterwards...) but also risks cracking and splitting of the nail.
I use a Dremel, and grind the nails down. Not only do the dogs hate it much less, but you get nice round tips instead of sharp edges. No chance of cutting too short, and no risk of cracking nails.
Even better, these tools are inexpensive, easy for beginners, and well made. I've been using the same one for years now! Sanding tips are super cheap and easy to replace, too.
Good luck!

Here's what I use, I think it was originally meant as a dog nail file. The small metal bit is similar to what I used here.

Start with one of these, and one of these, then add a little of this, and a little of that, and Presto!! Steve Drive!

Most practical is this rotary tool set. I'd have a lot of uses for it, but it'll primary be for cosplay.

Least practical? I'm not really sure, I probably don't have as many items as the average user, and I try to only add items that have a purpose. This hat was the least practical, because I wouldn't often wear it, so I took it off the list.

A $15 dremmel would have worked fine, too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8DXKXS

(not sure if bits are included)

If you are willing to spend some money to fix this I would recommend getting this: http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413690107&sr=1-1&keywords=wen+2307

At $20 it's a steal. IMO

I have one and it has held up well. It's a handy tool to have around the house. You could even drill out bigger air holes with it. I use it fairly regularly to sharpen teeth on some of my work tools and have no complaints.

I’m very new to growing and building buckets (just started to put my first one together), but for cutting holes in the bins I bought this cheap little dremel tool. It’s definitely not the greatest (and I broke 2 bits trying to figure out the best one to use) but I was able to cut almost perfectly circular holes without too much trouble!

Edit: oops, sorry didn’t see the part about UK links, but if you’re interested perhaps there is a UK equivalent product.

Maybe a dremel, or really any rotary tool. Found a really cheap on on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/

It probably sucks but if it's just for this 1 little job that might be fine.

Best solution is probably to buy a cheap rotary tool and make your own. I think I paid $3 for a spark plug socket from harbor freight and it took about 10 min with a dremel to cut it up.

Amazon has a cheap rotary tool for $18 here

Still cheaper than buying a premade socket and you can probably find other uses for the rotary tool.

You will want a socket handy anyway, unless you are planning on converting them to ball lock right away. I take mine apart between each batch to clean everything.

If you aren't comfortable with trying to make your own I'd be willing to make one and send it to you if you cover the cost of the socket and shipping.

I say file a hole, if you have a Dremel (tm) or similar rotary tool.

Dremel-like tools can be had for less money than a single one of my 2204 motors. Do yourself a favor and get one cause that tool is really really useful.

Also, ignore the idiots who think that a knockoff is somehow bad. I mean, if you made your living dremeling shit (is that a job? I want it) maybe you need high quality gear, but get the tool that works now and enjoy your awesome motors.

I would say just get something like this kit. To be honest even if you wait for fathers day these sets tend to be around $20 in price even "on sale." According to cammelcammelcammel the lowest it has been in the last year is $17 and change.

I love my Dremel's and use them for many things around the house. Here is a quick general rundown of my opinion. Avoid the one that can be powered by a vacum like a shop vac. Corded Dremels will have more torque than the battery powered ones. The first cordless I had I did not like, but the new one I love. As for corded, I believe the largest difference in models is the number of different speeds. I suggest going with one that offers a large number of speeds, as different materials require different RPMs to cut effectively. Let me know if you any other questions.

Based on the picture she sent me I’m pretty confident it’s this one

Here's the Dremel package for $99. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1SJNVU/

Tack Life $37 (I wonder how much better this one is compared to the $17 one) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433

Skil 4.5" angle grinder ($47.95) - https://www.amazon.com/9296-01-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Paddle-Grinder/dp/B009RJE6TQ/


I really like this Makita and the case it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DHFTK/

Hitachi 4.5" $44.99 - https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR4-6-2-Amp-Grinder-Abrasive/dp/B0199MMA84/

Bosch 4.5" $49 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SUOU/

Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.

I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)

After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.

I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.

Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D

Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.

My mini-is-resisting-to-my-blade solutions ladder:

​

1 The Oil -

Put some oil in the cut, and gently move the blade horizontaly without applying sheer pressure in order to avoid breaking the tool.

​

2 The Scalpel -

Maybe you need a sharper blade. Using a scalpel (or change the blade) may solve the issue.

​

3 The Heat -

Take a lighter and smoothly heat the part to cut : the material should start being softer.

​

4 Apply strength -

Check that the cutting motion isn't going in your direction and be sure to use a cutting mat. Put some safety googles. Then, gently but firmly, put a higher pressure on the blade.

​

5 Apply Violence -

Stuck the blade in the cut and strike the mini on the cutting mat, it deserves this and will broke quickly.

​

6 Ctrl+Alt+Dremel

Summon this must have : https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4300-5-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B01M1SJNVU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dremel&qid=1574873680&sr=8-5

And DREMEL THE HELL OUT OF THIS MINI

​

7 Assert Dominance

Grab the DECKER CHAINSAW LCS1240, shred this little fucker into pieces and pee on it because HE WON'T TAKE YOUR WIFE

​

8 Go to Hell

Put some oil on the mini, then shower yourself with it, then crack matches. If you die, he dies

​

9 Ask Help

Now you are dead but this mini is still vaguely scratched. Got to the 6th circle of hell, ask for a guy named Astaroth : he can cut the mini in exchange of your soul.

​

10 Go Drink

Astaroth came back devastated and he understands why you don't seem to suffer that much in hell, so he offers your a drink and then you can both cry in crippling depression

​

Bonus : Put your solution ladder on Reddit, because you and Astaroth feel lonely

I would assume that the cnc aproach can work with plastic prints as well, but you will have to watch out for the heat produced by the friction again. So you would need to spin at a low speed in order to avoid melting the print.

I personally recently tried this mini rotary tool. At speed setting 1 it's slower spinning than the big one I have and that helps to not heat up the plastic as much, so it doesn't melt
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Tacklife+mini&qid=1563179042&s=gateway&sr=8-9
You can even use regurlar size tools, as it has 2 fittings.
I also bought some of these which seem to work well with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Breynet-Sanding-Polishing-Grinder-Accessories/dp/B07GJKY5PD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=dremel+600+grit&qid=1563179279&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

I haven't used it for anything serious, just tried it on some old prints I had laying around, but it seemed to work fine.

Would something like this https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=dremel&qid=1559086310&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1
be able to do the job?

I bought one of these a while back, and it's great for this sort of work. It's cordless, and much smaller and lighter than a dremel. You can easily hold it like a pencil for really precise control. Obviously it doesn't have to power to do a lot of the stuff a dremel does, but for PCB work, it's perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/ARTO2C-282-Piece-Accessories-Universal-Sharpening/dp/B075R32VF9

Code: LMDZJL7O

price now: 25.97$

price after code: 18.18$

Expired: 1st June

https://smile.amazon.com/Dremel-4300-9-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B01LZVVA58/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Dremel+case&qid=1572664400&refinements=p_36%3A1253531011&rnid=1243644011&s=hi&sr=1-1

If you have $6,000 for Invisalign you (probably) have $39 for a Dremel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BACCDA

It made a world of difference for me. Good luck!