Best power sander accessories according to redditors

We found 53 Reddit comments discussing the best power sander accessories. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Power Sander Accessories:

u/phobos2deimos · 7 pointsr/boostedboards

I kind of assumed he'd use a belt sander cleaning block like this, which is basically just a big eraser. That's what I did before I sold my Landyachtz Evo.

u/tricker825 · 6 pointsr/boostedboards
  1. It's rare that you will need to replace them ( many go hundreds of miles with no issues ), but a random stray rock or something can tear them sooner. You can pick extra sets up from here:
  2. The wheels handle pretty much everything you throw at them.
  3. The grip tape will last years as long as you take care of it. Pick up some abrasive cleaner and clean it on occasion.
    As far as remote disconnections with the V2, I've never had it lose connection once.
    The only other suggestions I would have are to pick up some bash guards from flatland-3D to preserve the ends of your board, and compressed air to clean hard to reach areas on the board.
    Hope that helped! Have fun!
u/burningderp · 5 pointsr/boostedboards

You have 2 options.

  1. send it back to boosted for a $78 grip tape replacement.
  2. go on amazon and buy a belt cleaner. Its essentially a piece of rubber you use to clean your grip tape. honestly works like magic. I linked you what I have. I also purchased a 3 piece wire brush set.
  • use wire brushes to disturb the tape
  • brush of larger pieces of debris
  • use rubber belt cleaner to scrub!!
  • protip: this is going to be a hell of a workout. 2 months worth of ( twice every day) fapping in seconds. I suggest not buying the one i got and instead getting a smaller one so you can handle it easier

    Lastly invest in flatlands bash guard. Google it. Its cheap and will protect the tip(s). No one likes a bent tip(s).
u/Poxeh · 5 pointsr/NewSkaters

As long as its still grippy it should be fine. I've had some ugly ass grip before, mud and dirt stuck everywhere but it still worked so I kept it.

The Grip Gum u/tangoRhubarb mentioned can be found for cheap if you look up "Sanding Belt Cleaner".

Here's it on amazon:

u/r3volved · 4 pointsr/longboarding

Grip gum

Cheaper alternative: Belt sanding cleaner

u/BourbonFiber · 3 pointsr/onewheel

I use a dry, stiff-bristled brush to get the big chunks, and one of these for the rest.

Soap and water would probably be ok if you're careful about it, but it's kind of unnecessary.

u/Zeoanchropolis · 3 pointsr/longboarding

You can get these belt sander cleaning blocks for cheaper. They are the same thing just not branded by a skate company, been using them for years :)

u/rowbotik · 3 pointsr/boostedboards

I personally use belt sander cleaner. It's the same erase type but has a wooden handle which makes it pretty easy to clean the grip tape. A larger version than what I have with a thicker handle. The one I picked up at a local ACE Hardware

u/TC_ROCKER · 3 pointsr/Pyrography

Not really sure what your budget or needs are, but a palm sander (also called corner or detail sander) might work for you. They are relatively inexpensive and the sanding pads are too. I've used a Harbor Freight one almost daily for many years for many different types of projects.

Here's a decent one from Amazon

Whatever sander you decide on, an essential add-on is a gum rubber sandpaper cleaner. I went for years always replacing the sandpaper when it got clogged until I discovered that I could clean them over and over, and save a lot of money.

Hope that helps!

u/SigmaHyperion · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

There's a few options:

"Sanding Twigs" which you can get at your stores like Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc (even Amazon). They're basically the scraps from making legitimate sanding sticks or nail files. The only problem is that the majority of the time you find them in mixed bags of all sorts of grits, most of which are far too coarse, and it's difficult to find the ones that are individually bagged and you can get the finer ones.

The sanding twigs above also come bagged from Stevens International (a big model distributor), and they can be more readily-found already divided up by coarseness. You're unlikely to find them in stores, but you can get them online and any hobby shop can order them too since they come from a distributor they surely deal with. They call theirs "Pro Sand Files" and are in various coarseness and widths. These White ones are my go-to sanders 90% of the time:

They also make "Sanding Needles", which are shaped kinda like birthday candles. They're hard plastic with a grit applied to the exterior. I use them for getting into really hard to reach areas:

For a higher-quality product, there's also "Skinny Sticks" from Flory Models. These are great, you just have to wait for them to come from Britain if you can't find them at a local shop. They're a much higher quality than the 'twigs' above, and have a nice sponginess that makes for better sanding though it does make them a bit fatter. Outside of the White Thin/Fine sticks from Stevens I already mentioned, I pretty much exclusively use Flory's various sanding products as they are very high quality.

u/Birdman3000 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Kudos on diving into a huge project. You're going to learn a ton.

  1. Router sled is a great option. Watch LOTS of videos. If you don't have a bench or table big enough to set up a router sled, you can do it on the floor just fine, as long as your floor is flat. Here is an example of the type of router bit you'll need. Go slow and make shallow cuts - trust me on this one. And be sure that with a slab this big, it's not rocking at all when lying on a flat surface (you may have to use shims or the like when setting it up). If it's got any twist to it then it may rock, and you won't get a flat surface when planing it.

  2. Wood filler and epoxy will both work, as will very fine sawdust mixed with wood glue.

  3. Yep, take it off. I've done this once, so I'm not exactly expert, but I took the bark with a chisel (be careful not to gouge the wood) then sanded the edges with sanding drill bits. Worked for me.

  4. There are as many opinions about finishing as there are woodworkers on this sub. I recommend you take the top 4 or 5 suggestions you get on here and try them all on the underside of the slab. See which one you like the best and go with it. If it were me, I'd seal with shellac first (maple gets blotchy so sealing first is a good idea) then finish with a wiping oil-based poly, doing a ton of coats. Personally, I thin [this stuff] ( with paint thinner (about 50/50) because the dude who owns my lumber yard recommended it and it's worked great for me, but please do your own research.

  5. No nails. They are shitty fasteners. Screws are great, but you need to account for wood movement when you decide how to attach your slab to the base that you build. That's too long a discussion for here - please do yourself a favor and read up online about wood movement. You'll pretty quickly figure out your different options. Here are some examples of discussions on topic.

    Good luck!!!
u/Labdisco · 3 pointsr/metalworking

Aluminum tends to be fairly difficult to torch braze by hand, because the melt temperature of the filler versus what you're trying to bond is typically pretty small. I've been lighting metal on fire for near a decade now, and I wouldn't (and don't) touch aluminum if I don't have to.

Stainless is IMO super easy to braze in comparison, so long as you have a fairly reliable flux. The problem with these bernzomatic torch nozzles you're looking at is they can be somewhat underwhelming in the heating department, and it can take quite awhile to get things to temp, which can overcook your flux and then things oxidize and no filler sticks.

At the sizes you're talking about, the wall thickness would be somewhat important. If your tubing is thick, it could be difficult to braze. If it's fairly thin, you should be able to get it done, and you can clean oxides or extra silver braze with a dremel wheel or sandpaper. I use the dremel wheels.

BAg-7 has a pretty low solidus/liquidus, and should be achievable with the torch. If you want good corrosion resistance, BAg-24 has 2% nickel, but the temps go up a bit. Should still be achievable with this torch. I like boron added flux, I find it is way easier to tell when it activates, because it clarifies.

u/Buttdartt · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Recently got this and it works awesome!!

I had dried bourbon (don’t ask) that I thought stained the grip tape but this pulled it right off.

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive...

u/dstutz · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Yup. It's basically a thin (1/8") interface pad.



Here's a starter kit for 6" with a sample of grits and a pad protector:

u/joseconseco999 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards
u/ikoyhn · 2 pointsr/onewheel

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs Natural Rubber Build | For Woodworking Shop Sanding Perfection | A"Must Have" Sanding Accessory

Get this, you will never use all of it and it’s only 10$

u/cryptomatt · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Highly recommend you get a stick to clean ur tape. You'll be happy you did 😁 I use that stick to get the gunk off and add a little water if it's really in there.

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick, 8-1/2"

u/WolfWild52 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Hey, guys!

I thought you would all enjoy seeing my shrine to my Boosted. The only thing missing from it is the Boosted itself, and that should hopefully be arriving in the next few weeks. If everything is as planned, I should be able to hang it by the front trucks on the hook below the cabinet, and charge the board, the remote, my flashlight, and my taillight, as well as hang my gloves/wristguards, and helmet all from one spot, as well as keep my deck tape cleaner, skate tool, and any other random stuff I use with the board.

The taillight charges inside the small box on the bottom left. This is in my bedroom and the light glows red while it is charging, so I keep it in there so my room stays dark and I can sleep at night.



Cable box (holds all the plugs and extra cable in the cabinet):


Tail light:

Light charging cables:

Remote charging cable:

Cable hole covers:

Cable clips:

Helmet hook:

Deck tape cleaner:


Wrist guards:

u/thejunioristadmin · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking
u/phototristan · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Get this (same as Grip Gum) to clean the grip tape:

You just run it over the grip tape like an eraser and it removes embedded dirt.

u/Skit071 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Depending on how old you are this could last you the rest of your life. Cut it off in about 1 1/2 inch lengths.

u/secondarycontrol · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/Rewdred · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Never done this personally but have had the cord get snatched up and nearly sanded through.

Protip: Use a cleaner stick instead of the shirt you are currently wearing.

u/robotzor · 2 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

Get a decent sized brass brush, pop the grip deck off, squirt bottle of soapy water, squirt it down, brushy brushy, spray nozzle it off, let dry, then shred it with your prostik

u/Hfftygdertg2 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You can buy a latex rubber stick that's like a giant eraser. That works well to clean sandpaper on power sanders, but it would probably work on regular sandpaper with a bit more effort.

For example

u/NoTime4LuvDrJones · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Painter here. I never use plaster to repair plaster walls. I always heard plaster doesn’t bond to plaster. I use Durabond, which is amazingly hard stuff, but probably too hard for a newbie.
This is what I do for a job like yours: remove anymore unsalvageable spots of plaster. If it’s about to fall off and really loose, then it comes down. If it’s somewhat loose but can be saved use the washers already recommended that can lock plaster back into the lath.
Anything that is down to lath I use metal lath that can be found at Home Depot. I cut it down to the size of the hole of the exposed lath and use drywall screws to drill metal lath into the wood lath.
I mud with Durabond then. You can also, as long as you don’t make it too sloppy. As in don’t mud too much where it goes above existing ceiling. Just layers of Durabond bedding. Can use fans to speed up drying. Even hair dryer. Want to dry the thick areas before recoating or it’ll take forever to dry. After doing many layers and getting close to ceiling level can then switch to Easy Sand. It’s much easier to use and as the name implies, it’s easier to sand.
Probably getting 90 with each. 90 means it’ll be 90 min to dry. Don’t want 20 min which would dry in your mud pan.
I use the mirka sanding block and hose that can be attached to a shop vac for dustless sanding. And their 180 grit sanding screen roll. Works great.

u/JDecker06 · 2 pointsr/onewheel

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning...

Been using this works great. Little elbow grease and one of these and the tape will be looking brand new.

u/Timmoneer · 1 pointr/longboarding

I usually don't bother but here in NC there can be a lot of mud, and I've had it build up enough to make the grip less grippy. I use this:

u/12Kryptonite · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thank you. I have one of these. Works wonders and lasts a long time too.

u/Mind-Over-Minis · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you're in the US then Hobby Lobby has a little section that sells them and other small tools, where the model kits would be, they also sell Vallejo paint oddly enough there. That's where I get mine since I live near one. If not Amazon sells these

If that link doesn't work search for DuraSand Sanding Twigs. Also look around your area for any local gaming stores or stores that sell Gundam and things like that or military models, they always have all this sort of thing, at least the Japanese equivalents from Tamiya and such. MicroMark's webstore and on Amazon have a ton of quality if pricey stuff if you want to go all in on tools, which is fun too.

u/denis_b · 1 pointr/golf

I bought a dremmel last year and I use these scuff pads to clean my clubs.... It works really well, but leaves a eggshell finish -

u/_SnesGuy · 1 pointr/DiWHY

Or buy this for ten bucks?

u/reboticon · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I use fine grade roloc discs.

u/Laxtorre · 1 pointr/boostedboards

Yup a big ass rubber stick and a bunch of sweat brings most of it back, some mud/dog shit spots(uncleaned Boosted #2 with 4k miles) won’t come out but it looks pretty good. I’ll take a pic of both boards I just cleaned them the day I posted the wheel comparison picture.

u/BANGA718 · 1 pointr/boostedboards

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs Natural Rubber Build | For Woodworking Shop Sanding Perfection | A"Must Have" Sanding Accessory

u/Crabbity · 1 pointr/rally

Check these out:

Thats what i used to remove my sound deadening tar bullshit.

Stick it in a drill, get a heat gun, warm up the sheets of ungodly bullshit and scrape away. Takes about 15mins per sqft.

u/rebo2 · 1 pointr/infiniti

Not so bad. Depending on how perfect you want it, you might just paint it without sanding. Problem is you CAN'T test the colors they have in stores without buying. You can get an idea from the cap color, but they do have that dark Al / gunmetal color.

If you sand, I like these:

Use blue painters tape to tape off any area you don't want to sand and also to keep the tire clean. I apply the paint with a fine brush, not spray.

u/kiler129 · 1 pointr/onewheel

I recently purchased this cleaner:

I was able to clean dirt and mud from my grip tape in around 10 minutes and make it look like new ;)
For $9.5 you will get probably like 20-30 through cleanups of both pads.

u/BobLoblawATX · 1 pointr/woodworking

I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them

u/BlackMoth27 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

well people will use them for anything that needs to be filed, but they are best suited towards cutting of harder material where use of a steel file would be difficult. of course you could also use light sanding sticks like : model sanding sticks

u/Proto1Star · 1 pointr/woodworking

here is the paper I bought. I’ll snap a photo of the disc when I get home. The dust collection on the sander has been pretty good so far from just looking at it, the surface has stayed pretty dust free compared to hand sanding