Best power strips & surge protectors according to redditors

We found 1,865 Reddit comments discussing the best power strips & surge protectors. We ranked the 555 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Surge protectors
Power strips

Top Reddit comments about Power Strips & Surge Protectors:

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/CurrentEmployer · 99 pointsr/buildapc

A surge protector is NOT a extension cord. If you every work in construction/wood working/work with power tools you will know the necessity to have extension cords.

extensions cords are tend to have a schema of being yellow or orange.

THATS an extension cords.

These are surge protectors.

And most extensions cords as not known as surge protectors. They are different.

u/food_bag · 69 pointsr/circlebroke

We really have been outjerked by Reddit. For all the XBONE jokes and Snowden this, Obama that, atheism memes the other, they are now jerking about how a baby born dangerously premature is neither a hero nor a heroine. Yet when they throw some change to someone to buy a Mountain Dew while rocking some scruff, they are the world's greatest hero.

Fuck it, I'm going on a rant.

Search 'Hero' in Reddit, sort by Top. #3 result: A Redditor brings a power strip {extension cable} with him to the airport, calls himself a HERO for providing others with the facility to charge their mobile phones.


What's that you say, this self-aggrandising wannabe was downvoted to hell and back for misusing the word, and every comment called him out in Reddit's characteristic snarky and pedantic manner?

>You sir, are a great humanitarian.

Not in the top comment he's not.

Nor in the next 5 top comments, then we hit this:

>You could be a capitalist and charge money for the use of the outlets.

And our hero's response:

>> I was thinking the same thing. I figured I could get at least $5/outlet. And maybe $20 for my chair that was within cord's reach.

>>I could probably have got $30-$40 for the strip when I left and let the next person charge people to use it. My concern would be that i will be flying through the airport next week, and I might see my power strip still being used in one unbroken chain since I left it, only now it would $20/outlet and I would really need a charge.

Our hero would price gouge people at the airport. Oh teh downvotes. lol jk, [+204, -26], they love him and his gouging.

And I promise, the praise continues.

>I, too, travel with a power strip and am thus hailed.

Now others want to be praised for their heroism too!

Ctrl+F 'Hero': let's find those comments quoting the dictionary definition of 'hero', and how this guy doesn't qualify.

>Ok so we call them power boards in Australia. I was imagining you striding through an airport ripping your clothes off. I couldn't imagine why. EDIT: I could understand the hero part though.

Stripping off your clothes in the airport = hero. Premature baby successfully fighting for her life = fuck you.

>Be a real hero and get this one...

The size of the power strip determines the size of the hero.

>Most of that is just USB cables plugged in. If you really want to be the hero at the airport, bring a multi-port USB charger too.

Multi-port charger = heroic. Just more of the same. No-one calls him out.

This is just... I'm just baffled by this. She was a little baby girl at death's door, and the pedantry over the word 'hero' is everywhere, and upvoted to the top. He let people charge their fucking iPhones so they could play Angry Birds on the plane for slightly longer, and everyone agrees he's a hero.

Now we move into /r/theoryofreddit territory: why? Here's my theory: these kids can't ever be a premature baby girl, so they don't want that to be associated with heroism. They can, however, bring an extension cable to the airport, so they want that to be the mark of a hero.

I'll stop here because the only thing left to write is how Redditors are the lowest form of - you know what, don't start me. </rant>

u/pattymcfly · 43 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have a 3:1 grounded electrical outlet adapter I bought for $3 at a hardware store a few years ago that I keep in my laptop bag.

It is super convenient when using public transportation. All you have to do is ask people to share their outlet.

And on that note: holy hell I need one of these.

u/crypticthree · 39 pointsr/lifehacks

If you can find ferrite core noise suppressors in a large size that would work

u/Endulos · 29 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

I have one of these and it's great.

I have my NES and SNES plugged into the same strip because of that.

u/just_another_of_many · 23 pointsr/whatisthisthing

A ferrite core noise suppressor, clip it around the power cord to help stop electrical noise getting back into the power supply.

u/cardbross · 18 pointsr/geek

I like this version by Belkin, which is basically the same device (with a less irritating LED and 3 power +2 USB outlets)

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!

Thing |Price | Quantity
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1

Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/zoeypayne · 15 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I'm only mentioning this because the guy above you got a downvote... there are surge protectors available with an Ethernet cable pass through to protect against this exact issue. Source.

u/willfe · 14 pointsr/Frugal

Gladly! Here is the model I use in my apartment. A touch on the pricey side, but worth it IMO. They make bigger ones too, but I haven't had the need for them yet.

u/JerseyVan · 12 pointsr/NJTech

This is what i used, it will make you more popular

u/txmail · 11 pointsr/homelab

Shelves... buy some rack mount shelves and put your gear on it. I personally dig these but you can get some lighter duty shelves for about $40. A rackmount PDU is also pretty awesome.

u/jinglesassy · 11 pointsr/buildapc
u/mattbuford · 10 pointsr/Windows10

You're not telling us much about your modem but...

My brother once called me because he was at a friend's house and having this same problem. After some discussion, I asked him to take a look at the power strip or UPS that everything was plugged into.

Power strips sometimes have a feature where there is a "master" port and a "slave" port. The master is watched for power draw, and when there is no power pulled on the master then the slave is turned off.

The friend had his laptop connected to the master port and his router on the slave port. Every time he turned off his laptop, the power strip would cut power to his router on the slave port.

Example power strip that works like this:

u/nsbsalt · 10 pointsr/solotravel

Said this before but if you are at a hostel extra chargers, iPhone and android wires and this bad boy ( ) can make you best of friends with your hostel mates.

u/Crauza · 9 pointsr/AnimeFigures

here is what i used: the lights make sure its set to cool white if you are buying your selfnow the cable for the top most light is a bit short so u can always cut and solder a bit from the bottom light to the top one if you don't want the mess that i havealthough i did try to make it as neatly as possible.for securing the wires i just used clear 4inch zip ties and tucked them behind the frame inside. got this surge protector it comes with 6 outlets which are controlled by a remote so you can turn on all the cases with 1 button to secure the lights i used this double sided tape

and a bit of weather seal to keep the dust out on all 4 sides u can pick some up at home depot or fleet farm just make sure its 5/16th size

will be posting a big figure unboxing a bit later and how they all look inside the case.


Edit: forgot to link the bottom shelf so here it is pretty sturdy for the price

u/apathycoalition · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Are they using the same type of power supply though? The 3B+ uses about double the power of a 2b and a different pmic. You flipping the power back on to your entire apartment probably caused some lovely line noise. I've found that using a good UPS, or even a simple surge protector & something like a line conditioner can go a long way to preventing spikes/power problems if it becomes a repeating issue.

u/wkrick · 9 pointsr/MAME

A "Smart Strip" is a popular option...

It has 1 "control" outlet that you would plug your PC into. When you turn on the PC, the power strip turns on 3 other outlets (monitor, marquee lights, powered speakers). When you turn the PC off, it cuts power to the 3 other outlets.

To make turning the PC on/off more convenient from outside the cabinet, you can disconnect the PC start button from the motherboard, which is just a momentary contact switch and replace it with really long wires and a momentary contact switch on the outside of the cabinet. Note that windows is designed to shut down when you press the power switch so it works out great.

This is the switch I used. It mounts in the spot where the original cabinet's toggle power switch was located...

Radio Shack #275-609

For wire, I just picked up a roll of cheap, thin speaker wire (two-conductor).

Note that the surge protector cord is only 4 foot long, so you might need a heavy-duty extension cord. I recommend appliance extension cords that are sold at Home Depot and Lowes. They come in shorter lengths.

EDIT: Another (more expensive) option is a USB triggered power strip.

It works the same way as the "Smart Strip" above except that there's a USB cable that plugs into the PC. When the PC is powered on, the USB port gets power and triggers the power strip to turn on the rest of the outlets. Note that this will only work if your PC does NOT keep the USB ports always powered on. Some motherboards can be configured to have "USB standby power on/off" but some are always on with no option to turn it off.

u/ricecooking · 8 pointsr/DIY

Buy one of these, plug your TV in where it says "Master," and plug your lights in where it says "Controlled by Master." When you turn your TV on, your lights come on.

u/mclamb · 8 pointsr/OSHA

Does this one? It says 15 amp circuit breaker, but I don't know enough about it to know if that protects overloading the strip.

Many of the GE brand cheap ones do advertise overload protection.

u/PixelD303 · 7 pointsr/VaporwaveAesthetics

For music production these are still a thing. I have a rack of these. Startup feels like an Apollo mission.

u/CantStopStaring · 7 pointsr/sex

One thing that can definitely help reduce EM interference is a ferrite core on the power line of your router. This should keep the interference from being conducted down the power line and interfering with the router's power and ground circuits.

There are lots of people who believe (rightly or wrongly) that electromagnetic interference has medical effects on them, and so there's a whole cottage industry of products you can buy to do grounding and isolation of two components from each other. Some of these are bollocks, some are snake-oil, but some of the items can actually work to block RFI.

Your challenge will be blocking the RF energy from the unshielded motor without smothering the WiFi signal you want to leave intact. I would say you could sew a "vibrator cozy" out of conductive fabric; slip the Hitachi into the sleeve then put the whole thing inside a condom (or female condom) to make it easy to clean. This will make it heat up faster, so you'll want to watch out for long sessions (if you have "long sessions" with a Hitachi, holy shit, what are you doing?) because the motor could overheat and possibly melt some of its own components.

u/ack154 · 7 pointsr/technology

Here you go: (this specific one is no longer available, sadly)

I have a smaller one in our bedroom for a similar setup. No complaints. Of course, couldn't tell you if any money is REALLY saved or if it has paid for itself yet. But the theory is sound.

If you search for "smart strip" or smart power strip or something like that, there are a few others out there.

u/agent_of_entropy · 7 pointsr/DIY

Get a Smart Strip Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology. When the TV is turned off/on, the other devices plugged into the controlled outlets are switched off/on automagically.

u/jacle2210 · 6 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like OP might have a "dirty" power problem from their wall outlet.

Might also be a ventilation problem.

So, if you have a "dirty" power problem, then for a short term fix I would suggest investing in a voltage regulating device, such as:

Please note, this is NOT just a surge protector, its a line conditioner/voltage regulator; and assuming that OP's problem is "dirty" power, then a 'line conditioner/voltage regulator' should keep your connected devices from being killed.

If the conditioner appears to have solved OP's problem, then OP should contact their Electric company to report OP's ongoing problems with household electronics being killed by "bad" power and see if they can test the transformer feeding their house.

I would also suggest that OP use some form of active ventilation on their network equipment, as excessive heat will kill electronics also.

u/OSPFv3 · 6 pointsr/techsupport
u/Kairus00 · 6 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

I have a 12 outlet version and it's a great device!

u/Bentleg · 6 pointsr/OkCupid
u/parksddd · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.

I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.

u/exjentric · 5 pointsr/Frugal

This shuts off the power to your outlet after 30 minutes, 3 hours, or 6 hours. I think it'll help me, since I plug my phone in to recharge at night, and I'm sure just a 3 or 6 hour-recharge will be adequate.

This turns off your DVD-player et al. when you turn off your TV. I wonder if it could be used for computers and computer accessories too.

I haven't purchased these items, but I plan to when I move next week.

u/beefsiym · 5 pointsr/Roku

you could buy a smart power strip that senses when the TV is turned off, and thus cuts power to the Roku.

u/zeug666 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Of course each situation is different, but I am pretty sure I left my mini-surge protector plugged in by the TV the whole time. I looked at some "Cruise Critic" forum posts and they seemed to indicate a dislike for power cords (extension cords, power strips, etc) because of the fire hazard, but no cord should mean no problem. A few posts even suggested the Belkin because of that.

How many outlets do you need? There are a few in the regular room: by the desk, by the bed, there was an iDevice dock that my wife used to charge her iPhone, I think another in the loo. There should also be some "international" outlets that can work with an adapter.

What do you expect on a boat? The connection back to land isn't great or cheap. If you are just trying to communicate amongst devices, why not use a wireless router to make your own WLAN?

Mac are computers are PCs too.

u/MarkK7800 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.


Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

u/the_keymaster_ · 5 pointsr/firstworldproblems

you might need this since you only have 1 outlet in your house.

u/evoltap · 5 pointsr/Austin

I use this with some very expensive gear behind it. $10,000 coverage plus favorable reviews of it doing its job.

u/stalker007 · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You need a ferrite core: Amazon Link

Wrap the main speaker wire around it twice...usually doesn't matter where, but in the middle would be good.

u/fanfarecross · 5 pointsr/homelab

No one told me this when I started so I'll tell you:

I think we should specify here that "server rack" and "network rack" are built differently. If you want a rack for networking and just the 24 port switch and patch panel, you'd look at something like this. If you're wanting to eventually put a full-length server in, you'll need something like this instead the difference being that the second one is built to support the length and weight of a full server.

Keep in mind when you purchase a server you'll need to buy rails that attach to the rack for it. The server then sits in the extended rails, which slide back into the rack.

Startech makes pretty good stuff, IMO. I've seen them on here before. I have the four post rack that I linked to in the second post and it's served me well. The best thing you can do however, if you have the room, is to jump on craigslist and see if you can find an enterprise getting rid of their rack. Generally those are worth thousands new and the companies are selling them for $40, or something ridiculous like that. I didn't have access to a truck, so that's why I bought mine.

Note that with the large rack you can add networking equipment too, and can also get shelves to support things that aren't rackable.

For power you can either get a rackable UPS or power strip.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

u/shanew21 · 5 pointsr/Austin

Your friendly reminder to use a surge protector, and that surge protectors only last a few years (or one major surge). I like this one because it shows you when you are protected by surges with an indicator light. When the surge protection wears out, the light will shut off and you should replace it. It also comes with a $300,000 equipment warranty.

u/thebasementtapes · 5 pointsr/sonos

Hey no worries at all, we all have to learn at some point. this is part of the enjoyment with turntables for me, the tinkering. I don't have the exact model of turntable you have but does it have something that looks like this? The silver thing is a ground connector. you just need to get a copper wire and connect it to that and then connect the wire to a metal pipe, OR VERY CAREFULLY touch it to a screw on a power outlet. DO NOT PUT IT IN THE OUTLET just touching the screw.

Also, does the hum go away if you touch the metal ground connector with your hand. Humans are usually grounded so we can ground the Turntable if we touch a metal part on it. That is a good was to test it is a grounding issue.

Also some other things to try. Try it in a different area with a different outlet. Some outlets are not grounded. You can buy a surge protector that will tell you if the current is grounded too.

Another thing to test. Does it hum when you plug the turntable in and don't have the needle down or does it only hum if you have the needle on a record. If it hums with the needle NOT on a record it is for sure a grounding issue. If it only hums when the needle is on the record then it might be the cable or bad connectors on the turntable.

u/FMA5880 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Agreed. Something like this I think is perfect:

u/tielknight · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I wouldn't given some of the reviews regarding the warranty and it not properly protecting what is hooked up to it.

They also seem to like denying your lifetime warranty if you don't hold onto your receipt, even 7 years later, according to this reviewer.

u/HumbleMagnificent · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Affect performance how?

Edit: I have mine plugged into This and haven't noticed anything odd.

u/diatho · 5 pointsr/consulting

an external backup battery for your tablet/ phone for when you need to charge your phone but can't find a charger

a 3 to 1 power strip, this is great for when you can find an outlet and need to charge multiple things or when you find an outlet and someone else is using it. simply ask to plug your power strip in and share. this model also has USB

u/MuanaKafi · 5 pointsr/peacecorps

Hey-O! Liberia RPCV 2010-2012. Congratulations! Liberia is a great country to serve in, and has AMAZING staff. The last time I went to do a short response service half of my luggage was coffee and food stuff. I think most of us brought a bunch of stuff we never used the first time. You can find most things in country.



I cant recommend that thing enough. I used it every time I was near electricity to power everything at once. I still use it in my house today. I also strongly encourage a kindle and try and pirate a bunch of books that you can share.


Computer is definitely nice to have for entertainment, but I never really used mine for work or project related things.

Linen clothes for work. Stuff that looks professional, but breathes.

Reach out if you have any other questions!

u/mal5305 · 5 pointsr/EDC

New to /r/EDC, here's my start:

  1. Notebook, puzzles, & book I'm currently reading (A Short History of Nearly Everything)

  2. Gloves

  3. Beanie

  4. Nalgene

  5. Firefox-branded Ogio backpack

  6. Meds

  7. mini-USB cable

  8. Gerber multi-tool + Leatherman Freestyle CX

  9. Kobalt flashlight

  10. Belkin mini-surge + USB

  11. Klipsch Image S4 headphones

  12. Case for business cards

  13. Spare earbuds

  14. Contacts + glasses

  15. Zune HD (yes, a Zune)

  16. Spare 8GB flash drive

  17. Nike sunglasses

    Items 18-24 are always in my pockets (+/- a few extras occassionally)

  18. Chapstick

  19. Keys

  20. Gerber pocketknife

  21. Gum (always always always)

  22. 8GB flash drive

  23. Money clip (credit/debit cards, license, a few business cards)

  24. Fob for office

  25. (Not pictured) HTC Inspire 4G

    Very open to suggestions/critiques. I really enjoy seeing all the different EDC collections, from minimalist to zombie apocalypse-ready.
    I'm thinking about putting together a car/bug-out bag, but that'll come later.

    EDIT: formatting
u/heartcall · 4 pointsr/Vive

A cheaper option than a UPS, if you don't care about the battery backup feature, would be this. I had one of those for over 15 years, still works fine. I only had to buy a UPS because the power company has been getting even worse, and power has been going out completely on a semi-frequent basis.

If you want a UPS to be able to keep the whole computer on during a power outage, you'll have to do some shopping around and research. Not all of them can actually keep a modern computer on, you need one that outputs a sine wave, or at least a close enough approximation, for a modern PSU to work. This is the one I use.

I don't think the one you linked will keep a PC on, but APC is a more reliable brand. I've actually had a much older CyberPower UPS have the battery start swelling up like a balloon. I only bought the brand again because an APC UPS that outputs a sine wave was like $600, but don't know if they might have a cheaper one now.

edit: They do have a cheaper one now.

u/Yoko042684 · 4 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

My wife had a similar problem with her computer speakers at work. They were picking up a nearby radio station.

The easiest fix is to use a ferrite core. I bought ones similar to these and they fixed her problem.

Assuming you have the cord length buy one with a hole wider than your cord and wrap it a few times though the ring. Do it towards the middle of the cord length.

If you don't have the length for loops buy one that is the same size as your cord and put it near the middle.

u/photonoobie · 4 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, ferrite beads will help. Place them on the power (mains) cable as well as any speaker wires. Something like this should work.

u/kendiara · 4 pointsr/videos

Or stuff like this. We have one connected to the game consoles. TV goes off so does the PlayStation.

u/iterative · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

If you're content with the form factor and such, there are products that already do this:

I suspect they sense the current draw with a current transformer:

u/beigemore · 4 pointsr/homelab

My original plan was to build a small Ryzen server to run some VMs on. That plan eventually turned into looking at small racks and deciding I want to run ethernet throughout the house, so naturally I need it all to come together at one location. I bought a 6u rack (can technically hold 8u), a pdu, a tplink patch panel, and I got a free switch poe from Aerohive that I plan on using to power some security cameras. I found a 3u short rack mount computer case that can be mounted "backwards", which helps with air flow in these short racks and allows easy access to all of the io ports.

My Ryzen idea turned into a Theadripper build because of some crazy deals I got, and ended up being its own stand alone build. So I still don't really have a machine setup in the 3u case. I have a Dell board installed with an i7, but the psu has some weird proprietary connectors and the cables are too short for where the psu mounts, so I'll just look into replacing the board and psu at some point in the near future. I then plan on running proxmox and having this run part of a test lab, and maybe eventually act as a router.

I really, really like the pdu, but it's way over kill for this thing, so I'll probably just replace it with a nice surge protector, which will plug into an external battery backup.

I installed two exhaust fans into the top of the rack which run directly off the pdu. I could mount the patch panel 1u higher but the cables running into it would clash with the extra long screws the fans came with, so I will probably Dremel those screws in half when I get time.

The rack itself isn't bad. I had to get the first one replaced because it got destroyed during shipping. Other than having to tighten a few screws on the second one, works very well and came in great shape. I like this rack because it can be mounted on a wall or you can mount wheels to the bottom, which is comes with, and it looks nice while not weighing a million pounds.

Parts I'm using so far:

u/aparmar84 · 4 pointsr/InteriorDesign


But it looks like you have a lot of things to plug in, so I recommend this one. I use it at my place, and I love that it has the tilting plugs. Can fit some many more things.

u/fudsak · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

Power your Chromecast via a USB port on your TV. That will at least turn off the Chromecast when your TV is off. If you don't have a free USB port to use, there are power strips that use one device's power status as an input to trigger the rest of the strip on and off (example).

u/AMDSY3D · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I bought an APC one for like $18 on Amazon I think, do brands matter

Edit: I think this one, looks like it: APC P11VT3 11-Outlet 3020j Surge Protector

u/j2brown · 4 pointsr/pics
u/MertsA · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Yeah, I bet I know what happened. I'm guessing you probably don't want to wait around on Comcast to fix this? Comcast's tap down at the road is probably fine but there's a decent chance that the lightning fried a splitter in your house. Does Comcast lock the house box in your area? It's your wiring, and you're on the hook for anything that happens to it, but some cable companies are douches and will try to keep you out of the house box. Open up that box and you'll see two things, the cable from the street goes into a device that grounds the outside and connects with a copper wire to the ground rod for your electric service, and a splitter or two hooking up to all of the outlets around your house. With any luck, those two things will be separate, that'll make it simpler. The splitter can be used as a ground block, and there's nothing wrong with that, but we want a separate ground block so we can use a lightning arrestor.

As for the lightning arrestor, TII makes a good one. Really you just want to grab one of the gas tube lightning arrestors, and make sure it's one that has a ground connection on it, not one that just uses the jacket for a ground. This is what you'll probably see grounding your cable right now, you basically just replace this device with the lightning arrestor.

As for the splitter, you may find one, you might have 2 or 3, it depends on the house and how it was set up. You probably have a failed splitter, it's pretty simple to replace but make sure that you replace any splitters with the exact same type of splitter that it had originally. So if there's 2 2 way splitters, don't just replace it with a 3 way splitter and call it good. You want to keep the signal levels where they're currently at. Each splitter essentially splits the incoming signal evenly across the ports so when it was set up the cable installer might have set it up such that your internet connection is on the line that goes straight to a 2 way splitter connected back to the ground block with any TVs hooked up to a 4 way splitter under that 2 way splitter. For TV, you don't have to worry about signal strength balancing too much unless you have like 8 or 10 outlets all around your house, in which case you would probably need an amplifier. The important thing is that your internet connection needs to get the same amount of signal that it's getting now. So if it's getting 25%, less could cause service issues. Counterintuitively, more signal could also cause service issues, just keep it the same, because getting it right might not be easy to measure with your modem and it's more complicated. Just look in the box and go to Lowes or Home Depot or something like that and get an identical splitter. You don't have satellite so as long as the splitter is good for 5MHz to 1000MHz you're fine.

Also, you need all of this to be weatherproof and while the enclosure will keep out rain it won't keep out all moisture. If you take any weather seals off the old splitter or ground block, put them back on the new splitter exactly how you took them off. If the splitter is currently being used as a ground block, you'll need to separate this out to put in the lightning arrestor so don't forget that you need another short coax cable. Make sure it's at least RG-6 and don't just grab a long one, it's not going to fit, You want something real short like just 6 inches. Unfortunately, you're going to have a tough time finding a tiny coax cable since pretty much no one ever needs them. What the professionals do is just make the cable, it's really quite easy once you get the hang of it, and usefull if you ever want to do stuff like add an outlet in a particular room without having to pay an arm and a leg to Comcast or someone else. If you want to make your own cables, you need the tools to do so. Don't get any crimp on tools, they're garbage connectors and they'll frequently pull right out. All of the professionals just use compression connectors, they're only a little pricier, but they actually make a decent termination which is never going to happen with crimp connectors. You need a compression tool, a coax stripper (not strictly necessary, but if you're doing more than a single connection it's totally worth it), and some decent sidecutters or linesman pliers, or even just any old wire stripper. So long as you aren't just trying to use some kitchen scissors it'll work fine. Then for the cable itself you can buy a spool of RG-6 for ~$30 and then just make sure that whatever compression connectors you get are made for the cable you're using so don't try to use regular RG-6 connectors for quad shielded RG-6. Also, you can get quad shielded RG-6, it's better for noise, but I'd recommend against it, certainly if you've never messed with coax before. You'd also need a special tool to prep the cable with quad shielded RG-6 whereas it's just optional with regular RG-6. Really it's optional with quad shielded, but it's such a pain that I wouldn't want to deal with it without it.

Really what it boils down to is that first, replace the busted splitter or call Comcast to do it. Then replace the ground block with a lightning arrestor and if you need a 6" cable, just buy it off Amazon if you don't want to learn how to install coax elsewhere in your house as well. There's also the chance that Comcast's equipment fried so you might wanna just say screw it, call Comcast and have them fix the busted splitter or their equipment.

u/CaliBrian · 4 pointsr/leanfire

Vampire Power

like @totally_rocks talked about, vampire power is a thing. Stuff like microwaves, TVs, subwoofers, printers etc all use power while doing nothing. It's smart to measure both stand-by power and full on power usage.
Although mine has a 10 hour button that automatically turns back off, but basically the same. We have the DVR connected to one of the "always on" outlets so it will still record shows. But TV, receiver, subwoofer, roku, blu-ray all switched.

Or if you have appliances in, say, the kitchen, you can use a single outlet one like this:

If you're techie, look into Z-wave or like Kasa Smart Home stuff. They have all kinds of home automation things, including power outlet triggers that you can turn on and off based on any number of criteria (time, just got home, motion detected, etc).

I have a Kasa wifi bulb on my front porch and have it set to turn on at Sunset at full power until like 11pm, then dim to 1% all night to save energy, but not at the expense of a security deterrent. Then turn off at sunrise.

u/moronmonday526 · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

Belkin makes a mini surge protector that converts a single US 3-prong outlet into 3 outlets plus 2 more USB charging-only ports. The 3 prongs also rotate to help make it fit in oddly spaced areas.

I fly over 40 weeks a year and attend conferences, so that adapter has saved me plenty. Although there was one time when I was sharing with two other random people and had to unplug them both when I was leaving but they were not!

u/ShadowSavant · 4 pointsr/japanlife

One of these to plug into the seat outlet, or one of these If you have more devices that need a plug.

Audio Books

A hard copy book/novel (or two).

Stay up all night prior if you want to try to sleep on the plane.

u/GoGoGadgetTLDR · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I use something like this.

Ground wire from this to the city side of the water pipe. If you're on well water, connect to your electrical panels ground plate/rod.

u/tvtoo · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Grounding requirements are found in the National Electric Code, mostly in articles 810.15 and 810.21 (page 658 of PDF), which is adopted by most states and cities/counties.

You must separately ground both (1) your antenna mast/pole and (2) the coaxial cable with a ground block just before it enters the house.

Make sure to electrically ground your antenna mast to reduce the chance of a lightning strike, minimize damage from one, and shunt away static electricity buildup. If this was previous DirecTV/Dish installation, the coax used by the installer might have a companion ground wire (a 'messenger' wire) that runs with the coax. If so, then make sure the ground messenger wire is attached to metal on your antenna or mount.

If there is no messenger wire, buy size 10 AWG copper wire (Home Depot, Lowe's, or online). Strip any insulation off the end and use a ground clamp on the bottom of the mast. The other end can be attached to several different places in your house's electrical grounding system -- the list of all of them is at NEC article 810.21, but the cleanest-looking may be the house's electrical service panel (the big circuit breaker box on the outside of the house). To do this, run the wire to a ground clamp (like a corner ground clamp or a side ground clamp) screwed onto the electrical service panel. Strip an inch of any insulation away when attaching to the ground clamp. (Look for where any previous DirecTV/Dish installer, if any, grounded the coaxial grounding block if you want a hint on where to ground it.)

If there was no previous DirecTV/Dish setup, and you're using your own coaxial cable from the antenna to the inside of the house, then make sure to use an electrical grounding block on the coaxial cable, just before it enters the house. People like the TII-212, which is also a lightning protector. Run size 10 AWG copper from this grounding block to a grounding clamp at your electrical service panel, just like you did with the antenna mast.

If you're using the coaxial from previous DirecTV/Dish setup, double-check that the ground block they installed on the coaxial line is properly grounded (see NEC article 810.21 for list of acceptable grounding places; sometimes they mess up). It should have a copper ground wire that runs to your electric service panel or metal pipe, etc. If not, then you'll need to ground the block yourself in roughly the same way.

u/jam905 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

You need to get a powerstrip with master/slave outlets. Something like the APC P8GT.

Three always-on, One Master, Four Slave/Controlled outlets

u/mishangelle · 3 pointsr/Frugal

I'm going to add this too. I use all three of these and they certainly keep my electricity costs down. My bills have been less than $27 for the last few months.

u/Remy45 · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

They make power strips that do that.

u/edselpdx · 3 pointsr/Frugal

Get yourself a Kill-a-Watt and test for yourself.

I have fixed some of this with my entertainment system by investing in one of these. It turns off power to peripherals if the TV itself is off--my Apple TV, DVD player, and connected computer are off-off when the TV's off. I keep my DVR hooked to the always-on plug so it can record things when I'm not home or not watching TV because I hate commercials that much and never watch live TV.

u/gladiwokeupthismorn · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

Tripp Lite 7 Outlet (6 Individually Controlled) Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, & $25K INSURANCE (TLP76MSG)

u/ghostfacekillur · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

I have a Belkin 3-Outlet SurgePlus Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports at home I'm going to use that.

u/donmega617 · 3 pointsr/consulting

Saved me in a few small airports. Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports

u/stutzmanXIII · 3 pointsr/electricians

Maybe this?

Belkin 3-Outlet SurgePlus Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports (2.1 AMP / 10 Watt), BST300

u/zim2411 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I have two of these and they a dirt cheap way to achieve this:

Plug your receiver into the control port and when it turns on any of the green ports will turn on too.

u/GunzenRozez · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

I am so tempted. Not having to fumble around to shut off the skimmer, and pumps for feeding would be sweet. Have to admit to. I have a place
to mount too.

u/jtm5098 · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I'd strongly consider using a voltage regulator as well. I've played clubs where the voltage ranges from 98 V to 132 V, which can be death to a tube amp. A regulator automatically corrects the voltage when too high/low whereas a surge protector will only protect you from extreme surges (ie you'll still get 132 V).

u/AntiMe · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

High quality components in power equipment have mass and weight, this thing weighs less than 2 pounds. They might work against a surge, but a voltage regulator is a much better choice, as you get clean power with them too. BB may sell them.

u/sandals0sandals · 3 pointsr/buildapc

No problem. When you go looking for a new surge protection, I can't recommend the Line-R 1200VA Voltage Regulator highly enough:

u/rarehugs · 3 pointsr/hardware

What you want is a voltage regulator ($50) and a standard surge protector ($10) plugged into that. The voltage regulator protects your devices by conditioning the line against droop and spike. Voltage coming from your wall not otherwise conditioned will have fluctuations that can damage equipment. A UPS is pretty useless unless you absolutely need a few minutes of power during an outage to save a file or shutdown gracefully. The reality is auto-save makes this pretty obsolete and a hard shutoff of power is far less damaging than the ongoing fluctuations your voltage experiences every day.

Here's the one you want:

u/drjay2003 · 3 pointsr/hardware

Well damn, wish I had realized that when I got these ones. I usually do a lot of research but when I got these I was "!!!" about having just had a motherboard cook.

Unfortunately I went through their Trade-UPS system and it's offering me $70 off on an SMT1000 Smart-UPS for one of my XS 1500s. Assuming they'll do the same for my other one, and maybe $30 for the secondary battery, I'm still looking at $290 for it and I'll have a much lower runtime.

On the other hand I'm seeing line conditioners between $3 and five brazilian dollars, which is apparently a lot. For example.

Problem with that one is one of the reviews saying it "clicks" on and I don't think that will be much better than the backups. If I could find one that smoothly fixes the power for $100 or so I could keep the current battery capacity and have the power regulated. Best of both worlds, if possible.

u/fatangaboo · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

> "clean up" the line and remove the noise. If you look around you also might be able to find a power strip that does this without the battery cost

Here are a couple of power line conditioners, without battery backup, that would help:

u/TehSavior · 3 pointsr/buildapc stick one of these on the cable

provided the cable is external. Don't stick it on an internal one.

u/ansible · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Is this an AM radio station, or FM? I'm guessing AM.

Based on the clues provided, it seems the transmission is being picked up via the wires going to the speakers.

I would try getting a couple round ferrite cores, and running the speaker wire through them a couple times kind of like this:

Here is something similar, check the review by SpaceFuzz:

u/deal_with_it99 · 3 pointsr/Electricity

I’d s try an smart strip first before bringing in an electrician to solve the problem. See if that solves your issue first.

Maybe something like this: Smart Strip LCG-3MVR Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 10-Outlet

u/cubical_hell · 3 pointsr/audiophile

There are power strips that have master / slave options. It will give power to an outlet after it senses a power draw from the master.

If your appletv was the master, it would power on the amp when it comes on.

u/Dumplingman125 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here you go. I don't have this exact one, and although they're quite a bit more expensive than normal power strips, mine has survived many storms that killed other strips in the house.

u/roushimsx · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.

Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be

You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.

I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.

u/hendusoone · 3 pointsr/technology

So... get a surge protector with coax protection. For example:

u/Fourthcubix · 3 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu
u/therippa · 3 pointsr/cableporn

Here you go -

No matter what length you need, make sure to get the 12 outlet one, since you'll never know what you'll need to plug in

u/ChocoJesus · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

It look's cool, but for the price, I'd rather go for functional and get 12 outlets instead of 6.

u/PacoTaco321 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

[I just bought one of these, which has 12 outlets and an 8ft cord.](Belkin 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord - Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and more (4,320 Joules)

It also has a $300,000 connected equipment warranty in case your stuff does still get damaged.

u/LocoMojo77 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice cooler. Got an H7 for my birthday last month. Love it. Dropped my cpu temp by 15'c

I plan on replacing the stock fan with a corsair LL 120 once it gets here.

As for surge protector..

I suggest the [Belkin BP112230-08 PivotPlug 12-Outlet Surge Protector] (

u/Spongi · 3 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

Invest in one of these. It has indicator lights to let you know it's properly grounded.

u/xoScreaMxo · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Since you seem to know a bit more than I do about this stuff, what's your opinion on this? I'm thinking of buying it, I could use a good surge protector. Thanks for any opinions

u/will_self_destruct · 3 pointsr/cade

Have you looked at Smart Strip? You may be able to make something work using it. I use it for shutdown procedures in my pinball cabinet.

u/pinellaspete · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I live in the Tampa Bay Area of Florida and it is considered the lightning capital of the USA. I installed a whole house surge protector at the main electrical panel box where the power enters my house. Home Depot sells 2 excellent Square D models to do this. One model costs about $32 and the other model costs about $100. (You only need one.) The whole house surge protector will give some protection to hard to protect devices like refrigerators, microwave ovens and washers and dryers.

Then my computers and electronics are plugged into APC surge protectors. The whole house surge protector will knock down the voltage from a huge power surge like a nearby lightning strike to a level that a normal surge protector power strip can handle without catching on fire.

Whole house surge protectors @ Home Depot:

And here:

APC Surge Protector @ Amazon:

EDIT: Just to be perfectly clear...Nothing will protect you from a direct hit lightning strike. These are meant to protect against most surges that you will encounter if lightning strikes nearby.

u/LionsMouth · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Agree. And instead of the power strip, buy a real surge protector. Not Wal-Mart crap either, but one that is used in a commercial office environment for individual workstations - at the very least.

Something like this:

u/_cudgel_ · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

Huge improvement, well done!

Two thoughts to offer:

  • velcro > zipties, because velcro is reusable and won't cut up your hands. Prob not an issue here tbh. This seems to be a holy war issue in /r/cableporn!
  • They make power strips / surge suppressors where they both lay flat against the wall AND rotate -- if you ever replace the power, keep an eye out for those. I use one of these and love it for that feature

    Happy gaming!
u/Plainzwalker · 3 pointsr/techsupport

option 1

option 2

I'd trust either of these, both a respectable names in the power distribution industry.

Also read through this for some other reviews/suggestions.

u/johnnychronicseed · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I would highly recommend investing in a high quality surge protector. I am an IT guy and would recommend either an APC Surge Strip or a Kill-A-Watt Surge Strip.

APC makes a solid product that we sell and recommend to all of our customers from home users to enterprise businesses. I use an APC Surge Strip on my entertainment center and PC setup. (Runs about $5000 worth of equipment)

I personally use the Kill-A-Watt for my grow room because of the extra display features and built in EMI filter to reduce line noise. (Runs about $2500 worth of equipment)

u/zupzupper · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Couple ideas for you:

  • There's a Pyle 2 channel amp with a usb charger on it, looks like it does a lot of extra stuff.



  • You may want to consider a wall splitter that does USB power + Regular outlet. It's probably going to be the cheapest option.

    Belkin Splitter
u/nickpickles · 3 pointsr/evergreen

This and some storage device/devices from here.

I'm not advocating you smoke a bunch of weed or any at all, but do want to keep you from losing grants/getting arrested/getting kicked out over silly outdated laws.

Other things you will need in school:

  • Cash

  • Sodastream if you like soda or carbonated water

  • Headphones

  • A nice pillow or two. A few things to not cheap out on ever, by Nickpickles: dental work, shoes, toothbrushes, pillows. In that order.

  • If you work out, a kettlebell or something small you can use in your room.

  • A mindset that you are living for nine months or longer in a small room, so keep your possessions minimal and organized. This impresses people you bring home, as well.

  • On the previous note: condoms. Don't fuck around around and catch crotch germs.

  • First aid kit. A good one as you probably don't have health insurance. Mine is a bit overkill, but everything here can be found for cheaper than cheap.

  • A surge protector. After having gear fried at Evergreen and two other places I've lived here, I have learned not to trust the combo that is PSE/old wiring. Keeping with the minimalist theme, these Belkin ones have worked fantastically for me, and they're good enough for Steve Wozniak.

    Things not to bring:

  • Huge shit. Really, you're gonna bring a fucking couch, two chairs, a coffeetable like ten shitty tapestries, a microwave, a Foreman grill, minifridge, foosball table, and other big fucking dumb shit that one of your other 3-5 roommates might also be bringing? Unless it's a huge TV just say no. If you require it, like a microwave, and no one brings one acquire it later.

  • Your high school yearbook. Seriously, this shit is dumb. The amount of times I went back to a girl's dorm room only to have to endure a 45 minute recounting of high school in pictoral form before even entering the grope stage was astounding. Yearbooks have blocked more play than rain delays.

  • Your drumset, huge amps, etc. Unless your whole dorm is a family-band together, this sucks for everyone else involved. Bonus fuck you points if you play a cover of Creep, do "ironic hip-hop covers", or play any song in Against Me's catalog.

  • Your boffing gear/other large dork shit. Know what's cool? D&D gamemaster dragon manuals store flat.

  • Your significant other that isn't enrolled in school. Oh cool, now our shitty cramped confines are more shitty and cramped for at least two months because face it, you'll probably be breaking up real quick. The latter part makes the final few weeks a real shitshow.

u/Geeenius · 3 pointsr/apple

Check out XtremeMac's InCharge Duo:

Or Griffin's PowerDock

You can get two of them for your iPhones and iPod Nano. Then get two iPad docks for your iPads, and then a Dock for your Shuffle. Power them all off a Belkin Mini Surge Protector:

Plug the two Dual Chargers and the iPod Shuffle adapter into the AC outlets, and the iPad Docks into the USB ports.

u/FatPhil · 2 pointsr/gpumining

it has a 15a circuit breaker inside it. from this listing. anything else i should look for?

u/Heratiki · 2 pointsr/gaming

They are also called Voltage Regulators...

EDIT: Your link is more of a professional type of device.

u/MrHeuristic · 2 pointsr/apple

Also I'd be wary about using your iPhone while charging in the future. If you must do it at that dorm, I would invest in a true voltage regulating UPS to prevent whatever spike you had that caused the shock. Another option would be to use the USB port of a laptop or PC to charge it, since you have the buffer of a full power supply (with much larger capacitors than a wall wart) between your phone and the mains.

u/KhaosKat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the APC LE1200. I've had mine for years and it's worked quite well for me.

u/MexicanThrowaway_ · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Well, most of the time that i have seen computers with damaged power supply units (the kind that goes inside the case) its actually because they were plugged in on that kind of cheap power strips, i get what you mean, some DECENT power strips DO come with voltage spike protectors, and UPS batteries also protect from power spikes / blackouts, but those power strips in the picture look cheap.

if you can see the lightbulbs in the house dim a tiny bit when they use the microwave / washing machine / fridge, those voltage variations can damage the power supply over time. thats why i usually recommend at least a voltage regulator for the PC they usually look like this

if the computer is connected to a UPS its a bit more protected, because, in case of a blackout, it gives you time to stop whatever you are doing and turn off the computer, then people usually turn off the UPS because as its not receiving power from the wall outlet it will be beeping constantly, so, when the power comes back, the power surge is stopped at the UPS, then if you want to use the computer again you have to turn on the UPS and then the computer, while the power strips in the picture would stay in the ON position allowing the power spike to reach the power supply in the machine, and probably damaging it.

u/Forest_GS · 2 pointsr/Warframe

If you live in an old house the wiring could be sending dirty power to your system and it skips some data while at full tilt because of it, leading to a crash.

If all other things you try don't fix it, you can get a UPS with voltage regulation (some don't do voltage regulation so double check). Or just go with a straight voltage regulator where you don't have to worry about a battery going bad in two or three years.

Any type of over clocking, even if the parts are rated for it, make a system more susceptible to crashing from even slightly dirty power.

The power could also become dirty from chineseium products or other cheap high draw devices. Some cheap LED bulbs can be really noisy.

Edit- a new power supply could be a fix, but it would get worn down the same as the current one if the problem is dirty power.

u/DrSandbags · 2 pointsr/TropicalWeather

If you had an AVR like this could you expect to be protected if you still wanted to watch TV until the power went out?

u/supercargo · 2 pointsr/electricians
  1. Yes, setting the gain knob on the sub to 1/8 of maximum would work. It would be worth doing some testing since you might be able to go higher depending on your source material

  2. A power strip with a resettable circuit breaker would work; Furman makes various products like this which are designed specifically for use with audio and include some extra filtering circuitry; something like or
u/NewC303 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

A leap here, but could it be the power that your computers are getting? Perhaps the power in your house has a lot of noise. Maybe you should try plugging in your laptop at a library and see if you can hear the noise through your headphones. Also have you tried different headphones? There are power conditioning power strips that might help if that's the issue.

u/skytzx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I recall someone on buildapc had a similar issue before. Their solution was to get a power conditioner... something like this or this may fix the issue.

They're commonly used for audio equipment where audible noise can result from dirty power.

u/shoturtle · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A power conditioner can lessen this effect of the hissing. It will not eliminated it, but lessen it. But if it is not annoying. I would just let it along. Something like this.

u/ya_bewb · 2 pointsr/livesound

I use these: Furman SS6B 6 Plug Surge Protector

Edit: generic power strips tend to be noisy. These units from Furman don't condition the power, but they help block emi and rfi. They also have a metal case and can take a lot of abuse. They also make rack-mount units that do condition power, which are popular in studios.

u/pompeiisneaks · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

to be honest, I'd say this is probably the best bet for what you need without breaking the bank: I have one and dig it, but as stated, sometimes the problem isn't going to be fixed by something like that. The house sounds like it has some serious power problems. Those kind can sometimes be the kind that can cause fires etc, if there's surging every time a device is used, hints at bad connections somewhere and power is pushed until it arcs across some bad gap, causing a surge.

u/thebigreason · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Yeah. I use these Furman Power Strips with 15' power chords.

u/crypy · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Example of the ferrite choke others have mentioned:
Ferrite Core 1/2 Cord Noise Suppressor

u/observantguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like interference from a wireless antenna (likely cell phone), specially if the machine was truly in standby when the sounds/flickering happened.

Install Ferrite Cores at both ends of the speaker connections as well as the mouse cable to absorb errant RF signals and see if the situation improves.

u/Pipewrecker · 2 pointsr/baltimore

Try a huge ferrite core.

Can be found on most mass produced noisy circuits.

Or amazon

u/geltoid · 2 pointsr/electricians

Try getting a ferrite core for the cord and see if that cuts down on the interference.

Something like this.

u/lightfork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Two ferrite beads clipped onto the speaker wires would be most ideal, right at the back of the speakers. The clip-on versions simply hinge open, you wind the speaker wire around one half of the open shell, about 2 or 3 times, then snap the shell shut.

These are known as a noise or interference suppressor, and the job they do is to block high frequency allowing audio signal through.

You hear radio signals because the long leads of your speakers are an antenna, the amplifier in the speakers makes it loud enough for you to hear.

You can wind the extra wire to your speakers into a small coil to make it more of an inductor, but the suppressors are the answer.

u/mexiKobe · 2 pointsr/Cumtown

They don't need fancy cables, they need ferrite beads to filter out RF interference

or like, don't put your phone next to any recording equipment (the dumb broads on Red Scare are particularly guilty of this)

u/GreenPlasticJim · 2 pointsr/boatbuilding

Make sure the the LEDs have a low path of resistance back to the batter and maybe try to use some ferric core noise suppression on whatever line you're picking up the noise, something like these may work. Where or on what system are you experiencing the noise/interference?

You could also try getting better cables (better sheilding) on whatever is getting the noise or you could put the LEDs on a separate battery.

u/GeckoDeLimon · 2 pointsr/diysound

They make surge protectors that switch some of the outlets based on whether one main device is plugged in and powered on. Plug the receiver / preamp into the main, and then plug the Behringer (or a 12v wall wart connected to the trigger port) into one of the slave outlets.

Edit: Here's a popular one.

u/TheThirdStrike · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

I got this one from Amazon.

But there are a lot that are cheaper

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

8 AWG is way overkill. I have a dedicated 15 amp outlet to my rack. What I did was just run the equivalent ground sized on that service back to the panel. 15 amp outlets use 14/2, so I just ran a 14 AWG THHN wire back to the grounding bar of my service. Some will recommend running "one up" (if you run 14/2, run a 12 awg ground) on the ground based on the service, but meh. This will clear any static that builds up on it, and will clear any faults that hit the rack just as good as the existing 14/2. I think it makes more sense on bigger installations, not simple networking equipment.

You can ask COX about getting a drop into that room, but they probably won't do it for you unless you get TV service. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I understand what you are saying. I haven't done anything with my coax, but since I have fiber to the home, all the TV is IP based and I can just run the televisions off the cat 5 jacks.

I would get a PDU for your rack, it will simplify everything when you put it in, and it has a 10 foot cable. I have it run into my UPS and my UPS plugged into the wall.

u/iheartaegislash · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm not sure. A buddy of mine helped me with my build and told me it was something to watch out for. (Apparently he used to work at office max/depot or something and had a few customers with that happen.) From what I understand, if you have a power strip kind of like this, you can plug the coaxial cable into it and then to your device and it solves the problem.

u/HerbertGWells · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There is no such thing. You can just buy a regular power extension that has built-in surge protection. Then you simply plug the PC and monitors into that.

Like this:

A UPS is an entirely different thing altogether. An Uninterruptible Power Supply, or UPS, is a special kind of battery back-up system that is designed to help prevent data loss in the case of complete power loss.

u/tabatchoy · 2 pointsr/declutter

Maybe invest in a 12 outlet?

u/ChaksQ · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I use one of these for my A/V equipment that's got spacing for wall warts.

Also if I recall correctly UK power plugs are huge so most wall warts are the size of the plugs. Airz might be from a country that uses those monstrosities.

u/mandlar · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I use two of these power strips, perfect for large adapters.

u/d3vourm3nt · 2 pointsr/metalmusicians

Hey man....I'll give you a breakdown of everything I own to make music. But you have to be aware, that there is a HUGE learning curve to home recording...and until you get proficient with your DAW and learning about all sorts of settings and how to set up your audio and workflow and what cable gets plugged into where and yadda yadda, you will find that there are days where it can get aggravating. And then once you finally get the hang of it, and you can record something with somewhat ease, you will find that it sounds like garbage, and then you realize you gotta learn all about mixing, and the struggles that comes with.

So first and foremost, just make sure you are aware that even if you had all the money in the world, it's going to take a good chunk of time before you feel comfortable and etc.


here is a list of everything that should help you get started.

I assume you're a guitarist yeah?

First off, just buy the full version of Reaper. It's $60. It's worth it.
Also, for drums, I use Steven Slate Drums...The full kit is worth it..but if you want just the $40 version, that will work also.

For an audio interface, the best quality/bang for your buck would probably be something from Focusrite

And then you will need a set of monitors as well....again, the best quality/bang for your buck IMO is a set of these

And then of course you're going to need things like cables, etc.

XLR cables for mics,

balanced cables for connecting things like your interface to your monitors, etc,

get some instrument cables as well if you don't already have some,

A good surge protector as well, can't recommend this one enough, it has rotating sockets so you can fit everything on it.

From then, its just a matter of how much money you want to spend, and what all you want to do.

How do you plan to get your guitar tone. Are you going to mic a cab? If so, look into something like an SM57. If you wanna do it the cheap/free way, be warned you will be dealing with a latency issue. USB interfaces have latency, so monitoring your tone can cause some issues sometimes. You plug in your guitar raw straight into the interface, and throw on some plugins on the track that give you your tone. If you want to hear just a raw, clean guitar, there won't be any latency. But if you want to record while hearing your distortion, the computer has to take your clean signal, process it through the plugins, and then back out to the monitors, so there will be a split second of latency if you don't have things set up correctly and if your pc specs arent up to par..and even so, you never can truly get to 0 latency without spending some SERIOUS money.

If you have some extra money, I would highly recommending getting something like this eleven rack...I personally use this. You can bypass the latency issue by choosing what you monitor on the you want to monitor what is coming from the input (the eleven rack) or the playback (the computer) or a blend of both. So essentially i can just listen to my guitar live as I'm recording straight from the Eleven Rack, but i'm not acutally 'monitoring' it in Reaper. By doing so, my guitar doesn't have to travel through the computer and back out, thus no latency. You can really get some great tones out of this thing also...I like to call it the 'Poor Man's AxeFX'. Here's an example of something i'm working on...both using the eleven rack and the steven slate drums, so you can get a sense of the quality of the drums and guitar tone. I have done some slight eq'ing and stuff, but nothing dramatic.

Of course you don't need something like that for guitar, there are plenty of plug ins that are free that can help you with tone.

And lastly, as far as plug ins go, if you dont wanna mic a cab, or use something like an eleven rack, just search on youtube "free plugins for metal guitar" or "free metal guitar plugins" or whatever, and just watch. Youtube is your friend when wanting to learn about how to use reaper and finding plugins. I know for a fact there are full playlists out there to learn how to use reaper properly, from start to finish. So consider looking for those.

For other basic plug ins like EQ, Compression, Noise Gate, etc, I wouldn't worry about those. Reaper comes with like 13 or so of it's own plugins. They honestly are some great plug ins as well, and are all you really need.

Here's a picture of my set up, with all the stuff I suggested in this post.

Hope that helps.

u/catloving · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'd just get a new PSU (power box) equal or better than yours. Remove old power box AND check motherboard/ports/spots for scorch marks. (If that's so, you need a new board).

Plug new power source into board, and connect your hard drive mouse and keyboard (nothing else) and boot up. While booting, watch the BIOS for issues and sit there and sniff - any smells coming from anyone? Run the computer doing some average things, surfing, playing video, sound - any smells there? Check your usb ports, all of them...Ok? Good.

Power down, and connect anyone else who hasn't connected power wise. Like CDROM or something else. Reboot, sniff, drive for a bit, see how that goes.

AND NEVER PLUG STRAIGHT INTO A WALL. The electricity in a house fluctuates wayyy too much. Your pc wants smooth predictable feed, not twitchy. Get a good power strip (I use this and it helps smooth it a bit, plus has a surge protector that will save your machine.

So: new PSU (look in your case right now and tell us what you have)
Power strip so you don't make smoke again.

don't feel too bad, I once plugged a machine into a strip (that was over loaded) at work, booted up and POOF fried the PSU, all the magic smoke left.

u/itsallaboutthestory · 2 pointsr/DeskCableManagement

I'm 98% certain the desk I have is a Linnmon desk as well and I've mounted the SIGNUM Cable management tray under it. I used the shortest drywall anchors I could find (like this but not that specific pack, I just had some lying around). It's been attached for over 3 years now with no issues. I even mounted my surge protector (12-outlet belkin ) upside down under the desk with no issues.

u/keebs63 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I love this one. Amazing protection for a rather decent cost. It's got very sturdy build quality as well. $300,000 in protection if it doesn't protect whatever's on it.

u/___Paladin___ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Disclaimer: I am not the best in the world with cables. My needs were to simply get the stuff off the floor and remove spaghetti danger traps when navigating. I didn't want anything too permanent in case I needed to alter my setup and I couldnt modify the desk. Everything below is just for inspiration purposes, as I'm sure much more could be done for much less. This should cover some common items in cable management, though.

This is the route I took. I didn't really have the cable length to play with at the time and didn't feel like messing with more cables.

The key players here are dmoose power box to hold a large belkin outlet filled to the brim with power cables and transformer boxes. Good ventilation on the box and no thermal issues.

For the behind the monitor stuff I used reusable cable ties to bundle runs together and sleeved them with zipper wire organizers .

u/NHGuy · 2 pointsr/videos

I've had one of these for almost 10 years and just bought another last week.

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

> Furman manufacture a sequencer that does exactly this, with three separate timed events in sequence

Another option is a "smart" power strip. They have a current sensor on one outlet and then turn some other outlets on/off. When you switch off the "master" device, a few seconds later it will cut power to the other devices. Some example models:

  • Tripp Lite AV88SATG
  • APC P8GT
  • Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip

    I have an older APC model than the above, but they look to be very similar. It has a current sensitivity adjustment for the master outlet, which is nice, although I'd also like some control over the timing.

    This approach only gives you the proper power-on sequence, obviously, as it's always reacting to the "master" device, so it can't turn off the audio equipment until after it detects you've turned off the computer.
u/acconrad · 2 pointsr/howto

The worst offenders all revolve around an entertainment center. Which is why one of these bad boy surge protectors were made. Connect your TV in as the master unit, then plug in your game system, speakers, cable box, etc...

this surge protector specifically cuts power when it's off, but better, it will purposefully cut off those "phantom power" units that are joint to the master outlet. And then the green ones are for anything that needs dedicated power regardless of master being on. AND you don't need to physically unplug everything, which is awesome.

So I unplug my toaster, lamps, etc...but I just keep this surge protector for my entertainment center and boom no worries. Definitely worth the $30 bucks and my electric bill is like $20/mo, already paid itself off.

u/VMU_kiss · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Sorry I'm Australian so you may not call it that it's a powerstrip in the US.

This is what I mean if this helps:

Basically used for PC's where once the PC is off it turns off the rest of the outlets but when the pc is back on it turns on the outlets meant for printers etc.

If it's hooked up to the xbox it will turn all the sockets on when xbox is on and just use some usb power supply plugged into it and your good to go

u/Bronocularz · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is great. Only thing is the price is throwing me off. Either Amazon is low balling the original price or Newegg is jacking up the regular to make the sale price more appealing..

Either way I'm getting this. Thank you OP!

u/wanderjahr · 2 pointsr/hometheater

As far as a surge protector, I use this You should contact the manufacturer of your surge protector to see if it was a faulty protector.

As far as brands for tvs to get, there was a post recently about top brands. I'd look there and gather a consensus. Though, at the 35"-42", there will be a feature parity between most brands which is to say not too many features. That's kind of good for you because you can safely look through the 2015 models on Amazon Warehouse or something similar and get more bang for your buck since cutting edge features aren't really something you'll be checking in the box.

u/Solor · 2 pointsr/PS4

I'd suggest looking for one that shows an indicator whether or not that surge protector is still good.

You'll find them like this -

Also take a look at the writeup by /u/hyperintake92 that he posted in this thread. Gives some good info on what to look for, for a surge protector.

As a note, I did very minimal investigation on that APC power bar. Was just the first one I saw that had a surge status light on it. I'm by no way saying that's the one for you, but I'm also not saying it's bad, lol.

Edit: Looked up the spec sheet on it; turns out it's actually a solid surge bar with some nice safety features built in. Link here

u/act-of-reason · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Buy a newer, better surge protector.

Get a surge protector with lights (like this) that alert you to issues with overload and building wiring faults and coax surge protection (I've had a coax surge kill a computer monitor before).

u/vjack11 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Normal voltage fluctuations are extremely small and unlikely to be a problem. Do you have some reason to think your house is prone to serious voltage spikes?

I would just get a decent surge protector (e.g. this APC model ) and call it a day.

u/Sneakersislife · 2 pointsr/PS4

Here is the exact one from Amazon, listed at 3020 joules.

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector 3020 Joules with Telephone, DSL and Coaxial Protection, SurgeArrest Performance (P11VT3)

u/Lorben · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

That's very unusual. You may want to invest in a chunky surge protector. Risking expensive electronics on a cheaper surge protector is a bad time. Drives me up the wall to see someone put $1000 worth of electronics on a $8 Walmart power strip.

I'm a fan of APC's stuff ever since someone at my prior job daisy chained a couple together and put a space heater on the end. Instead of catching on fire it partially melted the outlet on the surge protector and kept working. Pretty impressive considering it scorched the wall socket.


You can get a charger from the Nintendo refurb store for $20.

I've bought a couple 3DS systems and a few accessories from them, they've always been indistinguishable from new except for the packaging.

u/UnGermane · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These look amazing. But they're over $20 after shipping, and you didn't mention a limit, so I'm going to assume that's way over.

This, on the other hand, was one of the first gifts anyone on this sub sent me, and it is fantastic. If someone else requests this, or if the winner happens to be an add-on item and you need a little extra something, get this, and do not feel bad about it for one minute.

u/redfiche · 2 pointsr/apple

That for around $40 or this for $12. I chose the latter last time this was posted. Maybe it's not as elegant, but it's functional.

u/da4 · 2 pointsr/chicago

When I still flew on business regularly I carried one of these Belkins.

u/a_midgett · 2 pointsr/travel

Lots of good suggestions in here. A couple specifics from my trip:

  • This flashlight Tiny, rugged, and amazingly bright for just a single AA battery. Spendy, but worth it.
  • A mini surge protector to go with your travel adapter (kit). Share it in airports when there's only one wall socket.
  • An unlocked iPhone or Andriod smart phone. You'll have travel apps, wi-fi access for Tripadvisor and Wikitravel, digital guidebooks if you need them, and plenty of podcasts, music, and movies for those long bus rides. Oh yeah, it's a phone, too. Seriously, after my passport, this is the most important thing in my travel bag.
u/fire_rice · 2 pointsr/travel

When I travelled several European/UK countries from Canada I charged my various devices with this power bar and 3 in 1 adapter

I have been extremely happy with them, since I can simultaneously charge all my devices at once and no worries about voltage issues/power surges since it has a surge protector. The usb ports are super handy since I only need to carry the various wires, and no wall attachments. It is also useful for charging phones for new foreign friends. The only drawback is the size. It isn't very heavy, but can be clunky to carry around. I found carrying all my wires, plugs and adapters in a zippered pouch was a very convenient solution.

The adapter is really down to personal choice, but I quite like how sleek and compact the Targus is. Most people I know recommend buying the cheapest adapter, since you will always lose them, but for me having a compact universal charger was worth the money. Bonus with this adapter is if you are just going out for the day and want to only bring your adapter and phone charger along it is a much easier to throw in your bag then a huge all in one square adapter

Just my 2 cents, but I have been very happy with my set up over the last 5 months travelling.

u/nobodytouch · 2 pointsr/Surface
u/bookemdanno · 2 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

>asked another man to remove one of his plugs from the wall so I could plug my laptop in.

That's why I always carry

u/AlanBeforeTime · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

ZOMG We Need this!

This because you can never have enough outlets and those extra USB plug ins

u/TheDoNothings · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/rstoplabe14 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I’ve heard great things about this surge suppressor and it doubles as a grounding block.

u/pogidaga · 2 pointsr/homelab

You need an inline coax surge supressor like this. It costs about $20 on Amazon. It goes outside near where your cable enters the building. You should already have a coax grounding block there. If so you can connect it there. There is more info from the manufacturer here. If you don't already have a coax grounding block outside then you'll need to run a ground wire to the existing ground rod for your electrical system.

u/ahenkel · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Couple things I would check would be your home's electrical ground. and I would if not already done so install a COAX surge protector.

You could also put an ethernet surge protector between your system and the router.

Disclaimer I am not making a recommendation on parts. Part links are for example only.

u/loonling · 2 pointsr/htpc

OK. Cool. I do the same.

So then, connect the AVR to the TV using one of those switching power strips. They're usually marketed as "power saving power strips". With a quick look I found this one on for C$38.


u/o0oo0o_ · 2 pointsr/Roku

No, but you can get a "smart" surge protector. You plug the TV into the "main" or "master" slot, then plug the Roku into one of the "controlled" slots. Then, when you turn off the TV, it will cut power to the Roku a second or so later.

The disadvantage is that the Roku will have to boot up again when you next use it, so it's not as fast as leaving it on.

Edit: I just looked online and I'm seeing a lot of new surge protectors and power strips being called "smart" because they have wifi or voice assistant compatibility; that's not what you want for this. The important feature for you is the "master" and "controlled" outlets.

I don't have experience with these specific models, but these list the features:

u/neuromonkey · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

And if it doesn't (or the USB ports stay powered up when the TV goes into standby,) you can use something like what I use, this Belkin power strip. I have these in a couple of places, and they work well.

Of course, the idea of using a power strip that costs as much as the computer you're using is a bit silly. I don't use it with the RPi. I've had enough file corruption without doing things like that to it.

u/spriggig · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Dunno if these are recommended for tv's but killing power at the strip will save a bit on the electric bill while solving your problem reasonably well.

u/toraba · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I know you're saying that you've managed the cables in the last 2... but i see lots of dangly bits... could i recommend some good cable management sleeves? and a good remote-shutoff surge protector? and some grommeting?

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could get something like that. - More expensive alternative if you don't want the wireless ability but would like noise suppression. Tripp Lite is also the best company about honoring their warranty in the event of damage.

u/koopa2002 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

With that switch, I’m assuming you don’t have a hub and that brand likely doesn’t have much of an ecosystem so I doubt it has addon switches and such like hue and some others have.

I’d probably suggest a remote controlled power strip or an eco strip that uses a primary socket on the strip, like your cpu tower, to control the rest of the plugs and it cuts power to the “eco” sockets when the cpu is off. For example.

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

Tripp Lite TLP66RCG Eco Surge... is the one I have had for about 6 years but it seems to be discontinued.

Example of the automatic style I mentioned
CyberPower CSHT1208TNC2G Home Theater Surge Protector + TEL Protection, 4350J/125V, 12 Outlets, 8ft Power Cord

u/PapaNixon · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I would add it to a home automation project I'm going to build and have it send 433MHz RF signals to my Belkin Conserve Switches.

u/ktka · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have this and it works great:

What does the switch on the wall control? If you plan to repurpose that switch, what are you giving up?

u/atlantajerk · 2 pointsr/hardware

In lieu of finding an external case with a switch you could:

  1. Use a power strip with a remote control like this Belkin.

  2. Make your own with this switch and these two jacks right here. You wouldn't even need to solder.
u/turfyman · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I considered building one using:

    1. An Arduino to sense the signal

    1. Belkin Green Powerstrip

      If I had more time, I could have finished it. I was tweaking the audio detection algorithm and had a circuit drawn out for the 12V turn-on signal used in the remote. (It's a very simple PCB in the remote)

      I was using a line level signal for input, so it didn't really need any conditioning. The driver circuit to handle the turn-on wasn't very complicated (a transistor used as a switch to pull-up the push button switch input to 12V). The chip in the remote could be purchased and wired up stand-alone without modding the remote, but it seemed like more work to me.

      If there are any commercial solutions, AFAIK they were really expensive and not readily available.

u/UMich22 · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

Here is the model I have. It was half that price when I got it though...

u/13Coffees · 2 pointsr/Frugal

We bought something similar to [this surge protector] ( We use our Xbox as the controller for everything else since we run all our TV and movies through it. It cuts power to the TV, sound, etc. when we turn it off.

u/Pocok5 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You mean like this one? Probably better to a buy professionally made one in the case of high energy mains wiring like this. That said, always respect the maximum current draw of both the house wiring and the power strip - or you'll have a well cooked small apartment.

u/Nhord · 2 pointsr/ccna

I bought one of these a couple of months ago and it works great.

u/InfernalWedgie · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

> Just don't depend on finding an outlet.

Bring one of these.

I got the idea from this thread a while back.

u/acisnot · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Snow snow go away.
[Cuz they say two thousand zero zero party over,
Oops out of time
So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999] (

u/randumname · 2 pointsr/Cruise

Here's a handful of things a lot of new folks neglect:

Read reviews of the departure port (e.g., Ft. Lauderdale or Boston). Some ports are a pain to get to, get in and out of, and have little amenities (seats, bathrooms, parking, HVAC). If your cruise is slightly delayed due to customs or whatever, it can make the start of your trip miserable. offers some of the best deals and bonuses out there.

As for viruses, wash your hands, be defensive regarding personal contact with strangers, door handles, elevator buttons, and use the hand sanitizer wherever available. Cruises are no better or worse than airlines or college dorms, in the sense that you get a diverse group of people together and people are bound to get sick, but a little prevention goes a long way.

Don't overpack. Take advantage of laundry deals onboard mid-week if you're worried about running out of clothes (often $20 for all you can fit in a paper laundry bag).

Consider getting something like the Belkin 3-Outlet Surge Protector. Rooms on ships have limited outlets, and having power plugs and USB plugs is really useful if you have phones, cameras, ebooks, whatever.

Do the math on drink packages ahead of time (wine, alcohol, or soda), and remember that 15% gratuity is tacked on to all purchases. Sometimes the packages can be worth it, but you may find out you have to drink a lot to break even.

Consider trying traditional cruising first...set dining times, the same servers all week, getting dressed appropriately. Yeah, it may seem a little odd, but it's good to know if you do/don't like it before you pursue a non-traditional approach like Norwegian.

Be careful not to buy drinks in "souvenir"'s costs you several dollars more and you'll likely not actually want them (some people do, though).

Check out for bunches of info.

Don't be shy about exploring the ship and telling people you're a first-time cruiser. You'll get plenty of advice - some of which may actually be useful!

A warning: Once you go for a balcony room, you'll never go back to porthole / interior room again. That said, interior rooms are awesome for sleeping, since you'll never see the light of day.

Don't expect to spend a ton of time in your room, so don't worry about the room quality too much.

Room service (barring certain items) is still free/included and nearly 24-hours on most cruise lines. Order breakfast on a port-day will not get you off the ship faster...going to the buffet or dining room is almost always faster.

Don't be shy about dinner seating...sit with other may meet some interesting folks...that said, don't be shy about asking to be moved if they're complete jerks.

u/datrumole · 2 pointsr/androidapps

I have both a battery and a mini 3 way outlet adapter in my bag for exactly this, sharing is caring

This one

u/rbetts · 2 pointsr/onebag

> Power strip

I prefer one with USB ports - like ... I travel with one of these about 50% of the time. It is awkwardly blocky but useful.

u/FourthBridge · 2 pointsr/JapanTravel

Regarding your last point, it's always a good idea to bring a compact power strip with you when travelling. Something like this or this, though you may need a 3-prong to 2-prong converter for some places in Japan. They are great for nights when you have to charge multiple devices and make you a hero at airports.

u/louisss15 · 2 pointsr/Cruise

Any recommendations on a cordless power strip without surge protection? I took this with me two years ago and no one said anything (couldn't use it anyway, cause it has a blank prong for a second outlet):

I plan on taking this with me on a cruise in a month, and am hoping it will be fine:

u/tomgabriele · 2 pointsr/htpc

Are you powering up from a full shutdown? If so, you could enable the 'power on after power failure' in the bios and use a remote like the Harmony home control to switch on the outlet that the computer is plugged into. You'll get some bonus vampire power savings when the computer is off too...

You could also do a similar thing with a smart power strip that has a control outlet and a switched outlet (like this) so that your HPTC receives power when, for example, you turn your TV on.

Or if you want to get goofier, you could hack a wireless doorbell to work as a power switch for your computer.

Also, it sounds like you just need to bend the contacts in the case's power switch connector to make better contact with the mobo pins.

u/robotdinofight · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I have one of these for that purpose. Have my inuke subwoofer amp and cable box plugged in so they only turn on when the receiver is on.

u/pablius5k · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Maybe something like this?

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/Schnodally · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Here you go

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/tibberion · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Depending on the logistics, a power strip with "switched outlets" will work. Basically, the "master" lamp plugs into the "control" outlet and the "slave" switch plugs into one of the "switched" outlets. This is assuming that you can run extension cords so they can both plug into the same power strip.

u/RedRamen · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Is that 206 the only filter? I would definitely suggesting upgrading!

Also consider getting one of these. Definitely awesome for doing maintenance.

u/cdawwgg43 · 2 pointsr/homelab

The rocker panel runs to a UPS and then each server has it's own UPS. The switches, ONT for my fiber, modem, etc don't have power switches/buttons and don't draw too much so it's really easy to just turn them off and turn them back on right there instead of having to unplug them. It just turns the socket off. Each switch corresponds to an outlet on the back. It's the pinnacle of laziness and convenience. It's also available on Amazon

u/aasteveo · 2 pointsr/advancedaudio

An outlet switcher for your pieces of gear you're constantly climbing behind a desk to turn on and off. Always hate having to give my speakers a reach-around to turn them off and on. Why do speaker designers never put the power button on the front??

u/Spudlab564 · 2 pointsr/homelab

like this? Made an assumption that you where in the US, so amazon .com but sure you can get these elsewhere, I have seen them in the UK before

u/Dartarus · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Sounds like you need a different power strip.

u/rubemll · 2 pointsr/brasil

Por US$ 5 não é filtro de linha, e sim só régua.

Por exemplo, nesse aqui está escrito claramente que é um filtro: Ele até dá dados técnicos sobre a filtragem, então é um filtro.

Já esse aqui em LUGAR NENHUM do anúncio diz que é filtro: E as vezes o ANÚNCIO diz que é "Filtro" no título, mas se for na ficha técnica ou no site do fabricante, lá NÃO dirá que é um filtro.

O que mais tem no mundo é régua/T sendo vendido como filtro. Pra ter filtragem precisa muito componente, a montagem manufaturada é demorada, não tem como chegar num custo unitário muito baixo. Pra 3-4 tomadas duvido que dê pra ficar abaixo de US$ 15 nos EUA. Regua/multiplicador é tipo extensor de tomada (Rabicho) ou cabo de força pra fonte ATX, pode custar US$ 1,99 porque é feito no injetor com forma, zero manufatura.

u/p1nkpineapple · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PSUs dont normally have much surge protection - alot of outlets have a little button/switch or writing on it saying 'surge protected'. They are very cheap at the low end and I recommend getting one to provide a little protection. example

u/redditphantom · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I know there are some power strips with coax connections to help with surge. I don't know how well they work as I don't use a cable provider for my internet. The optimal solution is to use a media converter to convert the cable link to a fiber connection and either input that into your network or convert back to Ethernet. If you are replacing your ERL then look at the Edgerouter X SFP. You could use this to separate the connection between the modem and your router with the addition of a media converter.

Edit: There are these that might help with the circuit entering the house. You have to connect them to your home ground connection but they are suppose to help.

u/EGDad · 1 pointr/Comcast_Xfinity

My satellite guy put in a "coax grounding block" (link) for his stuff, then ran a ground wire to a place and grounded it properly. Is there a cable box outside your house, or does the wire just come in from the pole directly in to your house?

You might want to go the extra step with something like this:

You would need to find something that would fit the cable coming in to your house.

Hopefully somebody with more practical experience can weigh in.

u/tgkx · 1 pointr/electricians

Possible it didn't come over the coax and instead came in over the hot wire, into a cheap surge protector that shunted it to ground. Once the surge hit ground it went via the ground prong into a computer or router and into the Ethernet, then took all paths back out towards earth ground including the coax, killing all Ethernet ports in it's path.

Limit the surge into the house in the first place by using a type two surge protector at the service panel.

Surge source via the coax line is less likely as the shielding is normally grounded at service entrance and would short over there rather than 8 devices in the house. You can get a cheap coax surge protector that covers the signal wire too off of amazon.

TII 212 Broadband Cable TV Lightning Surge Protector

u/nerdburg · 1 pointr/Comcast

In all likelihood it's fine. The idea behind the bond is to equalize the electrical potential between your coax system and your home's electrical system. It won't make any difference in the case of lightning strikes. You want a 75ohm lightning arrestor for that.

u/decafgeek · 1 pointr/homelab

Maybe something like this? Not sure if it'd interfere with the data riding your coaxial lines though, you'd have to double check to make sure it's compatible.

u/Bodycount9 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You want at least one grounding adapter somewhere in your run for safety. Something like this:

It doesn't need to be that exact one but that's the brand I use because it goes up to 2.5 Ghz and it has two ground holes.

You will want to ground it to your house ground also.

If you live in a lightning heavy area, you could go with one of these instead:

u/LiquidPunch · 1 pointr/cordcutters

This is a monster but it works really well for me... i can pull more then i though i could, and we have very similar TV Fool reports.. if you go outside make sure to get a surge protector (in line link didn't work) This is great since your signals are from all over... mount it as high as you can and try with and without the amplifier to see what works best fro you.

u/llzellner · 1 pointr/cordcutters

Those flat things, are good for 5-10 miles at best to work the way they are advertised, ie: connect and get 100 channels! Reality, is that they can perform decently at about upto 20 miles or so if you have an amplified one, and stations and conditions. I happen to be 20 +- miles from my local TX farm. With a cheapo flat flimsy plastic thing with an amp. I got 28 of 55 channels in my zone. Some were pixelly some would work at times. Some would come and go depending on placement of the anntena. It was enough to convince me that going full OTA would be worth the investment.

So what you need to get is a nice decent antenna.

This will be a good one for you:

I have it and it performs, outstanding! I get 55 channels, out of the 55 in the area. There are few more LPTV's in another direction, which are more jesus freaks so I don't care.

I get one station which I didn't even think would come in regardless of the various sites, at about 50 miles. Mine is located 15 feet up using an old DBS J Pole mount, and a pole extension. No preamp. This antenna includes the mount. I personally would suggest that you also get:

And use it with the mount included with the antenna. Fit the pipe into the mount, use a rubber mallet and drive it in. THEN drill a hole through the mount and pipe. Tighten up. Then mount the antenna to the top.

To point the antenna I'd split the difference and aim it about 30 degrees MAGNETIC. You can get a decent compass application in Google Application Store for your phone.

That should cover the bases for all the major stuff. Big5, and the important subnets like Cozi, Decades, AntennaTV etc..

Be sure to run RG6 cable.

Inf FL I would also strongly suggest this for lighting:

Along with PROPER GROUNDING rod and grounding of the mount per NEC and local code!

u/Blake_Volpex · 1 pointr/homelab

Ya, that's going to be useless for lighting protection.
This is probably the cheapest one I would use:
Make sure to run a thick wire (say 10awg) to your electrical panel earth.

u/Silent_Gamerz · 1 pointr/buildapc

...For those environments, with substantial grounding work done, these products can prevent direct lightning bolt damages (for the most part). However, if you want an a low latency (<=1ns) and unlimited capacity (akin to joules), then the BEST option is a BUNCH of avalanche diodes, in a series. This is what ZeroSurge/BrickWall/SurgeX (and some others) make (they also make MOV-based btw, so read the product descriptions carefully!). The avalanche diode ability to react at lower voltages (akin to the clamping voltage for MOVs) is also stellar, as I've read some reviews (by [WireCutter]( achieving cut-offs of surges past 140v (recall: 120v is the desired voltage for most of North America) and they'll last virtually forever (there are no MOVs to burn out, thus no joules). They're hopeless against direct lightning bolts however, so just be clear about that. With enough of them in series though, unless your home is the preferred path of least resistance underground, then lightning bolts a half mile away or more should be totally fine, I'd think. Depends on how many are used in the device, after all. Similarly, you can get stellar results with a series of high-capacity MOVs, but they'll never achieve the <=1ns latencies. So, what are you worried about? That's the question you have to answer. I think a highly rated MOV or stellar number of avalanche diodes are both great solutions, with the latter requiring no upkeep (no need to replace MOVs, because there are none), but typically costing way more. Personally, I think the real winner is the avalanche diodes in sequence. For a video from a vendor (read: biased, but still informative) [watch a MOV vs AD surge demonstration](

2. Beyond these topics of protection are functionality. I'm not referring to the number / spacing of ports (although important), but rather filtering. When looking at UPS+SP hybrids, you'll see some offering sinewave protection - you want this, if you plan on streaming audio or experiencing static in audio you play (or are worried you will). However, they won't necessarily filter all electricity, likely just when operating off of the UPS' battery. Which brings the next topic of UPS - how does it bring power to your devices? There are three methods, but two most common approaches are: A) Outlet charges battery and devices, but switches to battery mode when the outlet goes out. B) Outlet charges battery, which in turn powers devices. The former may result in a brief "flicker" (or complete device turn off, if very old or extremely sensitive, not something most people should experience). Frankly, I feel the latter is over-kill (and due to extra heat from power conversions it means you'll have an always-on fan running, which could be loud to you, depending on placement). I state it's over-kill because, frankly, if your power goes out, if, in the worst likely case of a monitor flicker, you'll have just received a visual notification that your power went out and you may want to investigate everything is fine. Better UPS devices should raise an audible alarm, but it's a nice 2nd catch if it doesn't work. Plus, if you're maxing out the wattage on your computer setup, then your batteries might only last 2 minutes, so you probably need every second of that reminder to save your work and gracefully shutdown! Finally, there are some extra features to consider, such as USB ports, coaxial cable ports, and landline telephone ports (they're not able to support the high-speeds of Ethernet like you'd want for watching netflix or playing games, so don't try that!). The USB ports are simply a "nice to have" for some (if you plan to have it within reach, as opposed to tucked behind a desk/couch, because USB wires aren't rated to work when run very far, fyi), while the other two are certainly things you use. Having surge protection on your coaxial cable and/or landline ports may help with some surges, but various people have studied this and concluded it offers no real benefits, because this has to do with surges from outside your home (e.g. lightning strikes), which are already too intense. However, you CAN resolve the coaxial surge for as cheap as \~$5 if you ground it directly to the earth with a device like [this]( or (even better) [this]( Sadly, apartment owners with bad landlords may be out of luck. Credit for the aforementioned product ideas goes to the commenter "always-learning" on the WireCutter article I linked-to earlier. He goes into WAY more detail about all things surge-protection, than even I do in this verbose post. He also addresses how some zip codes will have laws requiring companies (e.g. Comcast) to install these grounding blocks at apartments and houses, so it may have already been done for you (or you can try calling and asking). If you understood everything I just wrote, then go read his comments and have your mind blown further! He's clearly a 100x more knowledgeable than I am. Here's a snippet: "*J. Rudy Harford invented Series Mode Filters and holds several patents for it. He improved upon the technology twice with Wide Voltage (operating) range and Total Surge Cancellation (TSC) Technology. Harford also started his company called Zero Surge, Inc (which makes the Brickwall Series Mode Filters). In the early days Zero Surge also made the SurgeX products. SurgeX licenses the technology from Harford. One has to give SurgeX credit for mass marketing Series Mode filters. Their Advanced Series Mode filter technology is TSC (no difference), but SurgeX also adds ICE (inrush current elimination) as well as COUVS (Catastrphic Over/Under Voltage cuttoff) technology to many of their products that are geared for audiophiles or professional concert venues, etc ... You can't go wrong with products from either of the 2 companies (3 brands). If you want new Zero Surge contact them at their factory. Ask to speak to Donna especially if you want a price on their TSC models (it may be cheaper than a used SA-15).*"

u/dweezil22 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The other advice here is good on specific cabling and what not. I'm going to give my somewhat ghetto homeowner approach.

Your goal here is to have everything work right. A digital device (whether it's a TV box or your cable modem) is generally going to be more picky about signal quality than an analog device. Each split, unless put through a powered splitter, will somewhat degrade the signal. Therefore you want to have as few splitters as possible before any important devices (like your cable modem). All else being equal shoot for that, but don't kill yourself at first trying to perfect it.

If you hook up everything and it works, don't worry about it. If you have any questions or concerns, you can usually use your cable modem as a poor man's signal tester. You can plug it into the coax, then plugin your computer into the ethernet jack and visit the cable modem's diagnostic page and see the exact signal quality. Your TV or cable boxes may also do this. For example I have an HD Home Run prime as my main cable box and the diagnostic page displays this for me:

  • Signal Strength 100% (2.6 dBmV)
  • Signal Quality 88% (27.3 dB)

    I ended up having some issues when I installed my HD Home Run so I bought this powered splitter for like $45 and have been flawless ever since.

    Bonus tip: Make sure your coax is grounded going into your house and also run it through a surge protector before it gets to your cable modem. $500 of fried home electronics taught me this lesson the hard way when lightning struck a puddle right next to my entrypoint into the house. After that I went whole hog and got one of these lightning protectors too
u/CyFus · 1 pointr/electricians

The coax coming from the pole has its own ground potential, its supposed to be bonded between the electrical ground but it sounds like the bond is broken somewhere. So when the coax cable meets with the tv that becomes a source of voltage between the two systems.

I had a similar problem except I don't have a cable service, I have a separate ground rod for an antenna system on opposite sides of the house and I didn't understand how to bond them. I blew out a brand new tv and when checking the coax cable to the ground there was a good 40volts ac running through it. I figured out after careful examination that the antenna ground rod was picking up stray voltage from a bad well pump and it was bleeding back between the well casing, the second ground rod then to the tv. So not only was the electrical bill higher from the pump pulling all the amperage out of the circuit whenever it turned on but it also destroyed the new flat screen tv.

The same sort of thing can happen with the cable system except its worse because its snaking all over the place between all the homes and poles. So if the grounding has gone to hell you can have reflections from all sorts of places which could be mild and only ruins the signal or could be worse and ruins your tv.

I would buy this and put it on a grounding block on your service side. Its an isolator that lets the signal pass through but cuts out the bad ground coming from the pole and if you want to be really careful get this grounding block/surge protector to go with it

edit: also what the other electricians said check your home's electrical system, my house is also from the 70's and i recently had to completely rewire it as it was full of problems, literally on the verge of burning down. The code back then wasn't that great and stupid things like aluminum wire decaying and burning up is a big deal

also gfci's are more of a bandaid to grounding issues. you shouldn't expect them to "fix a bad ground" they are only there to compliment a ground not really replace them

u/Incursus · 1 pointr/hometheater

I use a similar power strip to one of these:

It has a "master" socket that turns on whatever is plugged into the "slave" sockets when the device plugged into the master socket is turned on. I have my receiver plugged into the master and my amps and TV plugged into the slave sockets. Everything turns on and off with the receiver. It's simple, cheap, and works great.

u/Apostalos · 1 pointr/MAME
u/chudaism · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could always buy a master/secondary power bar/surge protector. They are pretty cheap.


u/mircolino · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I recycled an old 12V 1A transformer. After cutting the barrel connector I soldered the female half of the fan extension cable that came with one of Noctuas (kept only the black and yellow +12V wires).

Of course you can also buy the whole thing on amazon for $11 but where's the fun!

I then connected the fans power supply to a smart power strip piloted by the ThinkPad charger so, when I shutdown or put the laptop to sleep the external fans (along with my external monitors and audio amplifier) shutdown as well.

u/petascale · 1 pointr/hometheater

With something like this: When you switch on whatever is plugged into the 'master' outlet, the 'slave' outlets switch on as well.

u/hiding_from_my_gf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Look for any APC unit that has AT LEAST 1500 J (joules)

u/thkuntze · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

Like this or this?

u/level3ninja · 1 pointr/electricians

I would suggest something like this for the speed control:

There are heaps of different fan speed control options for computers, just adapt one to your needs.

To switch them on you might want something like this:

u/Narcolepter · 1 pointr/electricians

I find that for me, these seem to be a better solution;

APC Power Saving Surge Protector


Utilitech Power Saving Surge Protector

There is a set of outlets that are controlled by either your tv or pc and a set that are always on. This is good because you want your tv and game systems and such to be cut off with the tv but you want a dvr to stay on to keep recording shows. Or your monitors and peripherals to turn off with pc but router and modem to stay on.

I bought two of the APC ones on clearance at Best Buy and have saved about 8-10 a month on my power bill. The UT you can buy in store at Lowe's and is essentially the same. I recommend either.

u/verrukt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm young and unplug most things too. You can also find lots of surge protectors that come with remotes which is pretty convenient.

u/ReedRex · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Hm, my initial research would indicated that the powered USB is an always on feature. I have found no indications of being able to turn it off. I use one of these to help control my systems power vampirism. I bet this would work out well for you. Just one more switch to turn off at end of day.

Edit: this would not let you sleep and wake with keyboard. You would be doing a full shutdown or hibernate on each power off.

u/YMGenesis · 1 pointr/MAME

Pricey, but I used this Belkin remote power bar. I simply mounted its remote to the top of my cab, flip the switch, and everything turns on.

u/headinthered · 1 pointr/cordcutters

We bought a killawatt to see where power was being wasted and a belkin remote controlled power strip for our Home entertainment system in once we started using it it we noticed a dramatic difference in her electric bill

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

u/grifter600 · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

I got one of these

I hit this switch instead of the ceiling might switch.

u/RufussSewell · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

u/oftheterra · 1 pointr/windows

I use this.

u/shadedream · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

An easier route than doing monitor surgery (motherboards make it easier by having a header), I went with one of these:

I have all of my monitors, DAC, speakers and subwoofer on it. I'd imagine you could pop open the remote housing and wire up MX switches to the PCB pretty easily (and now it's sounding like not such a bad idea to do with mine...)

u/One_L · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Used one of these, slapped the remote switch on the top of the cabinet(cant see it while playing). . Still need to use the shutdown option on the retropie software to safely shutdown the pi, though I have not had any issues when its been shutdown incorrectly yet.

It isnt perfect as I have a floor lamp with a remote that apparently shares the same frequency, thus the cabinet sometimes turns on when I turn the light on. Unfortunately it also sometimes turns off when someone turns the light off..

u/jlian · 1 pointr/answers

Thanks for the answer. I live in Canada and ended up finding this

However I ended up getting a new (used, cheap) receiver with a switched AC outlet in the back that allowed me to accomplish this setup. The old receiver is a bit busted anyway.

u/bunnyfrog · 1 pointr/htpc

Thanks for all the replies, you all were a lot of help in deciding to move forward with this project. From brainstorming and reading replies, I had another question (and found a possible solution).

As far as work load/power consumption goes, would a HTPC running as a media server + having the ability with WMC to use a Cable Card to schedule/record be able to “sleep” when there is nothing recording, scheduled, or being used by a client to pull content, or is it always on?

For instance would WMC know to “wake up” the system when there is a scheduled recording?

Or if I'm watching a 2 hour movie on a Roku box and it ends, will the HTPC/server know that it doesn't need to work to serve? Is this where the NAS comes in? With the NAS can I record straight to it with WMC and use it as the live buffer, or would I have to install a fairly large hard drive in the HTPC with Cable Card?

From reading around, I think this would solve my Roku dilemma if the Plex app doesn't have a sleep timer. If anything I'd still use it so I wouldn't have to program two timers. -

Thanks again guys, you all rock!

u/chuccck · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

The tv has usb port but it says service, not a feature of viewing anything off a flash drive, so i am unsure of the power output. I didnt think you could code the pi to "shutdown", but that would mean messing the code of rasplex i believe.

I think I found a simpler solution: smart power strips.

this one has one control plug i plug the tv into and it should turn off the other "control" devices once the tv is off. That should be the simplest solution that would cut the power to the pi once the tv is turned off, and turn on the power to the plug once the tv is turned on.

I am new to rasplex and the pi in general, there is no shutdown sequence like in windows correct? Its just unplug to turn off no matter what its doing?

u/shaolinpunks · 1 pointr/Roku

You can buy a "smart" power strip like this

so when the TV turns off it'll turn off everything else plugged into the strip.

u/the14thgod · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this power strip and the power situation is pretty stable but it's an apartment complex. Every once in a great while a surge but that's maybe a few times a year.
My computer does not reach the point of lighting up beyond the little power button on the mother board having light. I don't have the 'dongle diddly bopper thingamajig' you speak of. I don't recall if it every shut down without a BSOD warning (don't remember the specific warning either).
Is there another way I could test the power supply? Slightly paranoid now and maybe I should keep the new PSU just in case. Wondering if I just need to go back to MicroCenter and get yet another mobo but I'm starting to burn money left & right here :/

u/audibleBLiNK · 1 pointr/hometheater

How is your DAC powered?

And is your Belkin power bar one of the smart ones?

Those have a trigger port that shut off the whole power strip when the device hooked up to the trigger port is shut off.

u/mrCloggy · 1 pointr/environment

Small wind:
Ask your dad to give a practical example on how to apply Betz's Law to your own backyard.
(And don't forget to 'innocently' ask how he is so sure the windspeed is as he claims it is).

Small solar:
PVwatts gives the kWh-numbers for your location.
'Soft costs' like permits and installation, needed for 'grid-tied', make it very expensive, you could look into a small-ish DIY 'off-the-grid' system with a battery to power only the bicycle-shed (and the freezer inside).
(You and your family do ride a bike for <5 mile trips, right?).

Energy efficiency is the biggest winner for the lowest dollar amount.
Install triple paned windows, and half a meter of insulation in every wall, ceiling and floor.
If you have mechanical ventilation, make sure it has a heat-exchanger (and CO2-sensor for lowest safe level).

Get a solar hot water panel for your shower etc, and if you have the space available, a shower drain recovery system.
For more solar fun: Build it Solar.

Electric vehicle (E-car, E-moped or E-bike), google-fu the fuel-type of power generators for your area/state. Even if it is coal, the efficiency is likely to be better than your own internal combustion engine, and the dirty exhaust fumes are not released in the middle of a bunch of people in town/campus.

Get a Kill-a-Watt, and measure all electrical appliances, in 'on', 'standby' and 'off'.
If there are vampire loads, connect them to a 'switched' power-bar.

u/Thomcat316 · 1 pointr/electricians

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

u/ebdbbb · 1 pointr/DIY

Tripp Lite makes a power strip with individual outlet controls if you don't want to do any wiring.

Edit: Not sure if it has the amperage you need.

u/whitcwa · 1 pointr/DIY

That would work, but it needs to be done safely. A power strip with individual switches is safer.

u/Guy_Fieris_Hair · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I have one of these.

They apparently have some that can be controlled via wifi

u/MapleStoryPSN · 1 pointr/RetroPie

If you're in the market for a new surge protector, then I'd HIGHLY recommend this for powering down your Pi if the surge protector isn't too out of the way:

Great quality and after you shut down, just simply flick the switch to power it off and flick it on when you want to play it again. It's also great for phone chargers and the like.

u/KARMA_P0LICE · 1 pointr/computers
u/radreck · 1 pointr/laptops

I really wouldn't be playing games on the plane. More for doing some light productivity (Word, Excel, Visual Studio) or possibly videos, but for videos I have the iPad with 8-ish hours battery life.

For any real work or gameplay, you're correct I'd be tethered to a wall.

Flying Virgin America though, they have the power outlets next to every seat, even in coach, so there's that. I'm not sure how many other airlines have that.

You can definitely eke out another 30-60 minutes by dropping the brightness quite a bit. Windows 10 makes this easy with the Action Center where there is a shortcut to cycle through display modes.

Basically, if you can wait, wait. As with most tech, the model you buy is always obsolete a few months later.

I always carry a portable Belkin 3-Outlet mini-surge protector (Amazon link) in my backpack. That way, if the power outlet at the airport or coffee shop is in use, I ask one of the people plugged in if I can interrupt their work for a few seconds to add the surge protector and get myself some juice.

If you really need a mobile productivity machine, I'd say wait for the new MacBooks which Apple should release soon. They'll get 8 hours of battery life easily, however for gaming they may not be optimal. I think the current MacBooks are using nVidia, so there's a small chance they switch to AMD for the next round as they seem to flip flop now and then between refreshes. Ideally, nVidia releases the GTX 1050 and Apple actually uses them.

u/UnchainedMelodee · 1 pointr/gadgets

Strongly recommend the Belkin 3-outlet 2.1A power strip. It comes with two USB ports, is very compact, and comes with a pivoting head so you can fit it into any outlet situation. Please be careful to get the 2.1A model, especially if you have a tablet. Double check, but most electronics now are dual voltage and will be marked 110-240V to indicate that. Phone/laptop/tablet/camera chargers, electric toothbrush, etc. are commonly dual voltage. If you find that you only have, say, an electric razor that needs US juice, you're probably better off replacing the razor. Just get a plug adaptor, which will cover you in Western Europe except for UK and Switzerland. The simpler the plug adaptor, the better it will hold, as the multi-country ones have lots of internal prongs that you don't need.

u/SlappyMcWaffles · 1 pointr/trashy

Replace her charger for your own and promptly make eye contact. And without breaking, slide that motherfucker as far away from you as you can. Making sure not to toss it at someone else's feet. Perhaps under some furniture.

EDIT: I travel a bit. And travel power strips will make you the most popular person in the terminal. (NOTE:Write your name on it or some identifying mark)

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/Cruise

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Belkin 3-Outlet Surge Protector

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/nanio0300 · 1 pointr/electricians

you could also for about the same price as USB receptacles get a small 3-4 outlet power strip with USB outlets build in. As a bonus they usually are also surge suppressors.

u/zigzagzig · 1 pointr/pics
u/nero147 · 1 pointr/onebag

my recommendation would be to grab a surge protector and an adapter. That's what I usually do. I used to use this one. adapter It swivels, but my button it was really stiff. Also the plug doesn't fold down which irritated me a bit and I swapped it out for one that did. Edit: This one looks better. It has only two ports, but surge protection and a 3000mah battery which is cool. I think I'm going to grab one to replace my monster strip.

u/RoombaCultist · 1 pointr/woodworking

It sounds like you're wanting to mount a wall outlet + USB outlet into your table, and then run a cord from the table to the wall outlet, right? I'm considering doing this for a project as well and am definitely going to use a usb wall outlet, and then strip an extension cord (or get one of those fancy braided fabric cords), to run from the table to the wall. It will require wiring, but I figure that's an important skill to learn, as I can add similar outlets all kinds of places like my computer desk, workbench, or the wheeled kitchen island. There are lots of guides out there, and even though it's new to me, I'm sure it can be learned if I put some time into it. I'm getting over the fear of cutting my fingers off in woodworking by learning best practices and learning respect for the tools, I can do the same with electricity (and zapping my whole self, not just my fingers).

I'll also be able to add light switch boxes to homemade gizmos like on all of Matthias' machines. I really like how he has set up one switch to turn on both his sander and dust collector!

If you're hell-bent against wiring, you could try something like one of these travel surge protectors, mine has been good to me for years worth of use, but I feel like the trouble of mounting this elegantly would be much more hard work than learning to wire an outlet!

u/AXXXXXXXXA · 1 pointr/electricians

Replacing bc old outlet lost its grip.

So then this on top

Belkin SurgePlus USB Swivel Surge Protector and Charger (Power strip with 3 AC Outlets, 2 USB Ports 2.1 AMP / 10 Watt) and rotating plug

And this on bottom outlet should be ok?

Belkin 12-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord – Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and more (3,940 Joules)

u/cmnthom · 1 pointr/Cruise

> I plan on taking this with me on a cruise in a month, and am hoping it will be fine:

This is the best one.

u/danimarie72 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Balloons are fun ! :D I think we should both be gifted something useful, such as this power outlet. I don't know about you, but I know I always lose those USB blocks haha. I hope your birthday is wonderful <3

u/itsclubberintime · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I carry one of these in my laptop bag at all times, not just when I travel.

u/jarechiga85 · 1 pointr/Roku

I used to have it like that, them I started to hate the booting sound. Now I have a small surge suppressor with USB power outlet behind the screen. No more booting sound.

u/moralsareforstories · 1 pointr/iphone

It's not either of the two you posted, but I have this and it's been great (plus, I make many friends at the airport):

u/thesourceshow · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could also buy a smart outlet strip. There is one control plug that is monitored. When you turn that device off it shuts off the other plugs and vice versa. TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

I use this. $13. Has adjustable trigger.

u/bobbaddeley · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Look for a master-controlled power strip. It's a normal power strip except that one outlet is the master, and when its power consumption goes above a threshold then it turns on the other outlets. That way when the TV is off as the master, the other outlets are off. When you press the remote and the TV goes on it uses more power, triggering the strip to turn on the other outlets. They are readily available and work really well. I have one for my entertainment center and one for my desk.

u/ze_ex_21 · 1 pointr/cade

"When you turn off your [PC], the power supplied to switched outlets is removed" (The PC is plugged into the 'Master' outlet.)

One example

u/i336_ · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

That's interesting.

I just realized my original comment may have been misunderstood.

The "sense" socket that I described is not actually switched off at any time. The idea is that whatever is plugged into that socket gets continuous unimpeded power so that the IR detection is powered up and you can use the remote, at which point the board's current sensing notices the extra power draw and switches the other sockets on. And to clarify, the TV goes in the sense socket, the backlight power supply goes in one of the switched sockets.

For context this is the cheapest one I found on Amazon, just to identify what one looks like (it labels what I'm calling the "sense socket" the "control socket"):

I'm also very curious about what you said about the TV. It sounds like you may have gotten those two buttons to push out of the service manual, and already done that digging. What's the actual error code? That's fascinating and I wonder why it's happening.

Finally, if you do decide the relay solution is the way to go, you may end up appreciating posting to /r/electronics - finding 12V that's only energized when the rest of the TV is on sounds like a small rainy day project :P

u/ricksebak · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

I'm going to assume that this computer is an HTPC, and that it doesn't need to be powered on unless the TV is also powered on, and that the TV/receiver are used exclusively for the HTPC.

The way I solved this had nothing to do with Linux config at all. I just use a smart power strip. It detects when the HTPC is powered off, and then also powers off the TV and the receiver. And then when I turn the HTPC on, the power strip turns on the TV and receiver. Probably not the type of answer you were looking for, but it's low tech, it works, and it saves energy. Make sure you use hibernate (or power off) instead of sleep.

This isn't the exact power strip I use, but it's an example of what I'm talking about:

u/Plodding_Mediocrity · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I put in a dedicated GFCI by my rack with one of the outlets used for a power rack strip (like this which is for filters, heaters, etc. The other outlet is for a generic Chinese-made WiFi enabled power strip so I can individually program light times. Good setup and not too expensive (compared to professional equipment).

u/Kyvalmaezar · 1 pointr/homelab

Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.

u/viners · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Would this still be an issue if I were only plugging in EVGA computer PSUs? Those come with overcurrent protection I believe and won't pull more than what they're rated at. If not, would any of these work?



Or even a cheap thing like this?


Thank you!

u/dak01 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

I have this switch that I use but I've been afraid to just cut the power from the BVM without using the power button first. Are you sure this is ok?

u/Nick_W1 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use this ADJ switched pdu which works well (and I have labeled the switches).

I also have the Pyle switched PDU, but took it out because is is not well constructed. Specifically the rack mount ears (and faceplate) are plastic, with a strange hollow construction. This means as you tighten the rack screws to hold the weight, the ears crush down and crack. It’s bizarre, the body is metal, but the ears are hollow plastic. No idea what genius came up with this, but it doesn’t work.

You might be able to make it work by putting washers in the hollow, but by the time I figured this out, the ears were toast.

I also have one of These and one of These , both Cyberpower, which work well.

This is my Ubiquiti Network Rack , powered by a Cyberpower UPS.

u/ChefJoe98136 · 1 pointr/electricians

Some power strips have a breaker integrated into the power strip, separate from the one at your electrical panel. Examples (they can be reset via the rocker switch, although sometimes there's a pop-up thing on the strip) -

Overload protection: 15-amp circuit breaker

Red "protected" LED indicator light with 15-Amp circuit breaker to signify you are protected

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Sounds like a brown out, but there could have been a power surge when the power came back up. Buy a surge protector ASAP, there's no reason to not have one with a PC with those specs. Try leaving the USB headset connector disconnected and see if the PC works fine after that with no shutdown warnings, it could also be a loose USB connector causing a short, or maybe you just need to replace your PSU.

u/guitarmaniac116 · 1 pointr/DIY

I just bought a standing desk and need to have a high powered PC, two monitors, and a high powered laptop on it. I need to have a surge protector (for the 4-5 necessary plugs) on the desk but the surge protector is not long enough to be on the desk and reach our wall outlet. Is it safe to have an extension cord running from the wall to the desk and a surge protector plugged into the extension cord? I will be rendering 3d images/game developing so these computers will be working overtime, including fan usage.

Setup looks like this:

These are what I am working with:

Edit: Should I use something like this instead of the flat extension cord?

u/realme123 · 1 pointr/PS4

Nothing against you but i always wonder why people dont buy those 10$ protective power supply again lightning ? Save my computer one time :)

You know something like that =>

u/Rogue3StandingBy · 1 pointr/houston

That's a great question actually. Here's a good example.

Here's a typical home 'surge protector', but they are only rated for 200 joules.

The thing to understand is that surge protectors can protect via several different methods, but the most common is for it to essentially fry the internal protection. You have to think of the rating kind of like the health meter in a video game. If you have a 1,000 joule surge protector, its probably wasted after ten hits of 100 joules.

If you want something that will protect expensive stuff from lightning, you're looking for something with a rating in the multiple thousands of joules. Like here's an example that's rated for 3,330.

Of course, there's more to it if you want to read about amp ratings and such, but that's the quick rundown.

This is why everyone's home router or printer seems to die every time a lightning storm comes around. Because they are plugged into a surge protector that likely had a very low rating, and its been in use for years and years.

/source: Am an IT guy with a computer science degree who routinely has to deal with server rooms and networking equipment that has to be protected.

u/TheOGHalalGuy · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do you happen to know waht could have caused this? I went to sleep with the power supply working completely. I have a new seasonic titanium. I had it plugged into this 200 joule outlet with the rest of the slots with my monitor and other peripherals:

Is there any other information I can provide so you could somehow diagnose why this happened?

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 1 pointr/technology

If you have things plugged into a surge protector that could also be a problem point. I should've said that as well.

So if you do have the TV / lights plugged into a surge protector you may want to try a different one as well.

Amazon has a two pack for cheap (can never have enough surge protectors)

u/SharpieThunderflare · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Power strips would be helpful in your situation. Comes with the added benefit of surge protection.

u/ElectricalOThrowAway · 1 pointr/electrical
u/vulkare · 1 pointr/EtherMining

UPS is just not worth it for mining, because its going to be VERY expensive to handle all those watts, and will only give you 10+ minutes of extra mining if the power goes out. Best just to put it on a inexpensive surge protector and have the means to restart it when needed. I recommend this one:
It's low cost, and heavy duty. And it plugs straight into the outlet so you have no extra power cord to worry weather or not it can handle the watts ( some cheap surge protector strips might have inadequate gauge of wire for the high wattage )

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/buildapc

similar to a surge protector in appearance, you stick it inbetween the wall socket and the thing you want to power. Has capacitors and inductors inside that reduce the amount of high frequency noise that passes through

u/drewlitogot · 1 pointr/techsupport

Pop one of these in the wall


Then, try to match the the amount of power that the computer would draw, a donor computer would be great for this, ask around and promise that the data will be wiped (use DBAN for this) the promise of assured data destruction makes businesses happy and open to giving you old equipment... Any way try to blow the fuse

u/MortaLPortaL · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This would be essential for a custom or regular sized desktop for wireless internet in dorms or places where you have no Ethernet access.

This is also essential. It's an amazing surge protector for the price to keep your electronics safe.

u/vinchbr · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the lengthy response.
The circuit the fridge is on has a gfci within the system but I don't know if the fridge bypasses it.
I will look at it tomorrow.
Would an ac line filter (something like this Tripp Lite Isobar 2 Outlet Surge Protector/Suppressor, Wall Mount Direct Plug-in, & $10K INSURANCE (ULTRABLOK) show that the ac supply is not the problem?

u/doubleme · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yeah, I'm gonna see if I get any interference by plugging it into a different surge protector. I did find one like you were talking about. I'll report back if switching surge protectors fixes things.

u/bugeats · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I've had great success with a Tripp Lite Isobar 2 along with a mega long power strip. It's essentially a 1:1 transformer for galvanic isolation, along with a fuse. Bonus $10k insurance for any gear damaged by a power surge for peace of mind.

Make sure all your gear is on the same circuit to avoid hum and noise problems. This is where the mega long power strip comes in.

u/flyingghost · 1 pointr/headphones

I got a 3.5mm noise isolator that solves the loud noise when connected to my DAC. I also got a surge protector/supressor from amazon but that doesn't seem to solve the buzzing problem. What should I be looking for in order to get rid of the buzz? Thanks.

u/Elnrik · 1 pointr/ZReviews

If I were to trouble shoot this, I'd start at the wall and work my way to the speakers.

  1. Get a surge suppressor that has emi filtering to kill noise from dirty AC. Can be had cheaply from TrippLite or APC. ( or APC P62 type things)
  2. Check for "dirty" power cables. eg, Broken or kinked cables / improperly plugged in / cables running past transformers, motors or power bricks, etc.
  3. PC internals - clean dust and dirt on PCBs or motherboard, fan or power wires don't run near sound card / video card, all motherboard power connections are secure.
  4. USB connections - No dirty cables: eg, cables not running past power bricks or motors, no kinks or breaks, securely plugged in, etc. Try using different cables in the audio chain.

    ... rinse and repeat through your audio chain. Something in the chain is feeding you that noise, and unless it is a component you can't check (the internals of your dac or video/sound card) you can often find it by being methodical in trying to eliminate it.

    Hope that helps?
u/bugalou · 1 pointr/DIY

Might I suggest adding a surge protector inside your mirror to protect your Pi and Monitor from basic surges? Something like this:

Or do the splitting with a 2 way box like this (It also will take more of a hit than the previous one):

I notice your weather was Philly (South Jersey here!) so thunderstorms may not be the biggest concern, but I think it would be worth adding.

u/ajairo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Are the Nvidia drivers for your 660 installed? Also, you may have a power problem, when I moved apartments my gaming PC started having issues(shutting off randomly/Blue screening) and would choke while playing very taxing games. The solution to my problem was an Voltage regulator(Like this)

u/norsk · 1 pointr/techsupport

Would plugging surge protectors into a UPS be a bad idea?

Would it make sense to plug a voltage regulator into the outlet then each of the surge protectors into that?

u/DesertWizard1 · 1 pointr/electronics

I would definitely recommend getting a voltage regulator. Battery backup is nice, but not completely necessary.

here's why:

The problem is being caused by voltage fluctuations in the apartments wiring, which are caused by the motor in the refrigerator.

So, you need to get something that will make sure your computer is supplied with a constant voltage, and this does not require a battery backup. The backup is useful for when you completely lose power, of course a lot of backups have power regulation built in. But, it's much cheaper to just get the voltage regulator.

u/azrael201 · 1 pointr/hometheater

how's this one

u/spens0r · 1 pointr/buildapc

Really top notch build. I especially like the RevoDrive.

Might I suggest protecting your setup against further power mishaps by purchasing either a quality UPS or voltage regulator / line conditioner? I had a power supply blow up on me a couple years ago and since then I've been putting these APC Voltage Regulators on all my PC builds and home theater components.

Just food for thought. Enjoy the new machine!

u/skunker · 1 pointr/electricians

It is definitely the computer. Do you think something like this would stop the tripping?

u/_zarkon_ · 1 pointr/DIY

There are devices that do that such as this.

I was looking into them when my laser printer was tweaking out my UPS (on the same circuit, not plugged into) every time I printed something. Alas my printer burned out before I installed one.

u/tempaccount920123 · 1 pointr/gpumining


>Heavy lightning storms, then mining rig stopped mining

>The motherboard and GPU were still on and I wouldn't have known the system stopped mining if I didn't try to turn on the connected monitor or check flypool hash rate.

>PSUs are plugged into a sturdy surge protector.

>Anyone else experience something like this? How safe are mining rigs during lightning storms? Why if I'm not home and its thor's hammer outside?

u/my_cat_joe · 1 pointr/vinyl

Get a voltage regulator for your wonky power. Voltage fluctuations are hell on electronics.

u/techsupport_SS · 1 pointr/SubredditSimulator

Where do the DC wires go to on the phone and doing a reset on it again. I don't believe there is an issue with windows for many years.

u/jerklin · 1 pointr/WTF

Anyway to safeguard for this? The house I rent had some terrible wiring. One of the bedrooms had an outlet that would make any light plugged in to it strobe. There were exposed wires in the basement. I believe the electrician that looked at some of the wiring called it a sleeping dragon. They fixed the bad outlet, but I'm still a bit nervous about the rest of the house. I have no idea if someone tried to DIY the electric here at one point. I had to argue with my landlord (homeowner) forever to get an electrician here. They kept trying to cheap out with unlicensed guys.

I run my electronics through one of these, but I'm still very paranoid about fire.

u/placebo92 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I recently bought this apc LE-1200 voltage regulator off Amazon, first one I received was faulty but they sent a new one after not too much hassle.

This is probably the most affordable power conditioner from a seemingly trusted company.

It doesn't have the battery backup, but for me that was a plus as I don't really need that and it just ups the cost like crazy!

Good for peace of mind if nothing else I figure.

u/nmanzi1991 · 1 pointr/DJs

A furman is the one that we went with.

Hopefully this one will do the trick for this go around. Anyway, thanks again for all your advice! Helped us out a lot

u/rambleon80 · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Have you noticed playing at different locations? Sometimes it's the power supply in your house/ studio. I know because one of the outlets in my little home studio always causes a little buzz. I've never noticed this playing out or in my band's practice space. You might want to try something like this?

u/aberugg · 1 pointr/sysadmin

I've always wondered if something like this would help. Electricity isn't my strong suit as far as knowledge. I use one at home for an AV mixer and it made a huge difference in reducing hum and all kinds of anomalies. Maybe this is a good compromise compared to having to shell out the dough for UPS' for each device, in case their boss doesn't want an upgrade.

That is, if it gets the job done right.

u/PutInKosar · 1 pointr/bravia
u/ThatsWhatSheSaid_84 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Did you shut off or unplug all other electronics within the vicinity of the speakers while they are powered on? I would be curious if you still get the noise. If no, power on each item 1 by 1 to see if that is causing the interference to start, and then if feasible, relocate.

If that doesn't work or isn't an option, you could try an RFI/EMI filter to see if it helps. You can try a more cost effective option like this, which depending on how strong it is may do the trick. I had a similar issue from time to time with a vintage receiver and this helped in my case.

Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B)

You could also try a ferrite core filter than snaps onto the power cord itself.

Hope this helps!

u/Dondervuist · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

u/Crashboy96 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Any chance you could comment on whether this power conditioner will actually provide any benefit?

Bought it after a quick google search because I needed something ASAP and a couple sites recommended it.

u/unfknreal · 1 pointr/Guitar

> There's no reason my keyboard should be outputting a radio signal

Nope, you're right, there's not. Unfortunately RF radiation and interference standards are lax these, and everyone wants to produce everything as cheaply as possible. The keyboard probably doesn't even have a shielded cord... and if it does, it probably doesn't have a choke. Try slapping a couple of these on the cable: ...but chances are, whatever circuit board and switching they put in the keyboard probably isn't properly shielded either, so it might not help.

None of this even takes into account the lacking shielding inside the amp or guitar cavities. TL:DR; you might just have to live with it if adding some shielding doesn't help

u/zachlinux28 · 1 pointr/shortwave

I'd just try a ferrite choke. The ones that snap on are pretty easy to install.

u/SumDudeYouKnow · 1 pointr/techsupport

See if a clip on ferrite bead around the wire helps.

u/michelework · 1 pointr/electricians

They are called smart strips.

amazon link for purchase

u/MankYo · 1 pointr/hometheater

Energy-saving power strip:

Many different models to choose from in that product category.

The idea is that you connect your AVR into an always on "main" or "control" outlet (or whatever it's labelled on the specific product), and the other components like CD players into the "secondary" or "switched" outlets that are controlled by the main outlet. The power strip senses more current going through the main outlet when the AVR is on, and then turns on power to the secondary outlets. When the AVR turns off, the power strip senses the current drop, and turns off power to the secondary outlets.

u/artoink · 1 pointr/electronics

Get a Smart Surge Protector.

It has a master outlet that triggers the rest of the outlets.

u/tooclosetocall82 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Your speaker need to be powered somehow. Once you have the figured out you could try a smart power strip like this:

u/TomTheGeek · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

What about using a smart power strip? They monitor an outlet for current and shuts off a section of the strip automatically when the computer/tv/printer is off.

u/LJHalfbreed · 1 pointr/cade

Yeah, I use something kinda similar to this: Autoswitching Strip Thingie

Rig the Pi/PC/etc with an external switch, and then plug it into the 'master outlet'. When you power on the Pi, that triggers the other outlets into powering up, and then your monitor, speakers, marquee, etc all power up. Pretty nifty.

u/electrodan · 1 pointr/Guitar

I use one of these, I have my amp set as the "control" and my pedal board plugged in to one of the switched outlets.

It might not be the best of you have a ton of pedals, but for my home setup it works great and I can use the other "hot" outlets for other stuff like charging my phone etc.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/htpc

I have done this numerous times and you can put as large a fan as have the ability to cut out. The top rear of the cabinet will be best and shouldn't affect the TV.

Look through your old electronics for a 12V transformer you can butcher or output from the PC. The xBox probably only heats up when running but the DirectTV box likely runs hot all the time. You can look at buying a Smart power strip like this and tell the fan to run only when the TV is on.

If you had a receiver, some models have switched outlets to turn on equipment when it is running. (Check your direct TV box for this as well) But that would only turn it on with the cable box which you might not run with the PC.

u/ablaize · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Not sure if this would work for what you're trying to do, but we use a similar autoswitching power strip for our entertainment center. TV plugs into the control, router/modem plugs into always on, and everything else gets switched off when the tv turns off. Hands off functionality and no vampire current draw.

u/Scipio11 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could try this bad boy or something similar. It has two fans on the top that pull out the heat. From there it's up to you where to build ducts to move the heat, whether its out the door or somewhere else. Make sure to add netting to the end of whatever duct you put outside to help cut down on bugs (I also have this mounted inside to help with power cable management)

Another thing to check is if you have another room that's more insulated from heat than one with a glass sliding door. I currently have limited space in my apartment, but have blackout curtains on the windows by my gear to help cut down on other sources of heat, I also have an air conditioner nearby that detects the ambient temp and kicks on only when needed (also monitor the humidity in this room to make sure your gear is safe).

The hard truth of it though is that for each BTU your gear puts out you'll have to pay for the same BTU output from your A/C

u/ScalyTiger · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Rack mounted power strips (for things that don't need battery backups) and rackmount 1U monitor console.

Also, document all switch credentials in something like Passwordstate, export all switch configs, color-code ethernet cables, and purchase ethernet cables to necessary length.

u/smartdarts123 · 1 pointr/homelab

Yes, I have this in the rack:

So, everything that is plugged into that will be grounded through that via the wall outlet, is that correct?

u/daphatty · 1 pointr/homelab

I gave up trying to find 1U PDUs. I suspect the added intelligent power features require significantly larger logic boards. Ultimately, I bought a 1U surge protector and called it a day.

u/gnartung · 1 pointr/homelab

Just saw that. So I have this Cyberpower 12 outlet PDU with surge protection. That thing is a no-go to plug into a Cyberpower UPS, right?

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 1 pointr/homelab

I bought a CyberPower CPS1215RMS which is plugged into a APC 1500 (SMT1500) for surge and BBU. I got the APC for free from work...I'm also on a budget. The CPS1215RMS has been fine for me and after one incident at work where I accidentally bumped/flipped an uncovered switch on a PDU and cycled a full HP2920 switch stack I greatly appreciate having covers on PDU power switches. Thanks to that mistake we have redundant PSU's on those stacks now so it all worked out : )

Tripp lite, in my experience, make solid and reliable gear. If you get either of the one's you've linked you'll be happy. The only thing I'd say is one has a 15 ft. cord, which is alot of cable to hide somewhere or bundle up. The 6 ft. cords are typically plenty.

u/Protocol_Fenrir · 1 pointr/buildapc

Reccomendations for surge protectors? I was looking at these two (1, 2), though I am not quite sure what the different in price is for, so I was leaning towards 2, due to the ethernet protection and reduced price.

u/chancethebanker · 1 pointr/smallbusiness

what are your thoughts on a strip like this?

Edit: Also what would you recommend for a UPS?

u/siegewolf · 1 pointr/gaming

I'm sure you know that you can get something quite wonderful for that price. Also, probably figured I should link you to one.

u/BATKINSON001 · 1 pointr/techsupport

The problem is not the computer itself but the battery backup surge protector power bar thing it was plugged into.

I went out and bought a Belkin 4120 joule surge protector from the local Canada computers store (cheaper on amazon):

and have not had any issues since.

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Belkin 12 port surge protector. I have three of these (one for PC, one for entertainment center, and another at work) and I cannot recommend them enough.

The angled plug lets you squeeze it between tight spaces and the 10 foot cord will make sure you have enough length to reach wherever you need it to be. The 8 foot version is a few bucks cheaper. Both are under $30, so they won't break the bank.

u/steveosmith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The moral of the story: a good surge supressor should be part of every new build. I use this surge protector. It's great. I don't know that you can have any sort of problem with a surge in your ethernet cable, but this surge suppressor come with ethernet protection. It's such an important investment honestly. I'd rather blow a $30 surge suppressor than a $1,000 PC.

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have never liked UPS devices because the batteries go bad every few years. I would suggest a power strip that is designed for entertainment centers and antennas.

u/gorgeous_gary · 1 pointr/diyaudio

When I touch the sleeves of the RCA cables the hum gets a bit louder. It diminished when I touch the ground lug on the preamp or on the turntable, though. I have everything connected to the 8 ft version of this surge protector:

But even when I disconnect every other device (TV, xbox, dehumidifier, phone charger, receiver), it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. My turntable is set up pretty close to all of those things because my room layout kinda sucks, but if they're unplugged then I can't see where it'd be picking up much interference. But as I said, it could also be the electrical wiring in the 19th century house I live in. The surge protector has a light that indicates that the outlet it's connected to is grounded though.

Wondering if a separate ground wire with shielded RCA cables may end up going a long way.

u/sternJosh · 1 pointr/legaladvice

I don't think it was just a simple power surge. The power strips I was using weren't super cheap ones, and they do have surge protection. Here are two of the strips that died on me:

I'm pretty sure they both have warranties where the company will pay for stuff that gets damaged while plugged into them, but that's only for a normal power surge, not faulty wiring. I'm not an electrician, but I wouldn't think that a power surge could cause a wire to break, and in any event my stuff was only damaged after the third time that a power strip died. Also, just prior to the incident that damaged my computer, I was noticing lights throughout the apartment randomly dimming and flickering. I'm almost certain that it wasn't a normal power surge, at least not on the occasion where my stuff was damaged.

In any event, my main argument is the fact that the maintenance guy tested the outlets and assured me they were safe to use, when in fact there was a physically broken wire. It seems like that easily could have caused a fire or something.

u/cye604 · 1 pointr/Electricity

This is the exact surge protector used.

158V was observed with a single 60W load (verified by Logger Pro at a later time) 12V power supply on the opposite side of the plug that was measured. The power supply continued operating as normal when directly connected to the wall, with no odd variances in Vin as compared to the wall.

A second test was run un-loaded. In this test, voltage averaged ~145V over 3 minutes, ranging from 109V to 155V. Another multimeter was used on the second outlet of the same wall plate to verify voltage into the strip. It held constant at 122V +/-1V for the entire 3 minutes.

Load calculations were done on all pieces connected to the power strip, and it was found that the load used was less than the advertised maximum load.

It is also interesting to note that all devices that failed were connected to one side of the power strip. Not all devices connected to that side failed, though, so this may be a coincidence.

All of these tests were either L-N or L-G, I believe that I attempted G-N, but I have no exact information written down, so it was either 0 or at the time I felt it was non-consequential. I will go back and check this value again.

The general consensus so far has been that there is no way that the voltage could have increased from the power supply, so I instead went back and looked at all damaged components. In each of the failed items, one of two items were broken. The first was the fuse on the input voltage. Sadly, the design of the power supplies make it impossible to replace the fuses, they serve as a one-time defence against surges, hence why a surge protector would be handy. The second component was one I could not identify, it was a vertical ceramic disk with 2 wires coming out. It is connected in line to the live line coming into the device. According to the manufacturer, these can be damaged when too high of a voltage or current is attempted to be brought through (Rated for 120V +/-10V, 3A +/-.1A). In 2 devices, a fuse was blown, in 3 devices, the piece mentioned above exploded, resulting in electrical smoke, and in 1 device, both components failed, again resulting in electrical smoke.

u/xSaiyan · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/StoneColdSteveAss316 · 1 pointr/PS4

It's the Belkin surge protector linked below, I believe it is a real one that protects against surges? Even has a warranty to replace any appliance hooked up to it that fails from a power surge up to a certain limit:

u/sunchops · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I recommend making sure you have several items:

  • Hamper (foldable or collapsible is best for college students.)
  • Laundry bag (Just in case you don't want to carry your hamper to your laundry facility, or your hamper isn't carry friendly.)
  • Desk lamp (any kind should be fine, so that way if your room mate is sleeping you don't have to have the entire room lit up)
  • Power strips (you never know when you're going to need to plug something in, and you might run out of wall plugs)
  • Change jar (spare change is always useful especially when ordering food, so you can give exact change. Don't forget to tip! You can make one of these yourself for basically free minus the cost of a bottle)
  • Desk organizer (To keep your class syllabi in, as well as any returned papers. It's very easy to lose all of that stuff, and you never know if you might need it again during the semester.)
  • Flip flops/shower shoes (keep them cheap because they're only for the bathroom, chances are that bathroom will be shared by you and several others, and most likely won't be the cleanest place)
  • Healthy (ish) snack foods (whatever foods appeal to you really, but that's a start for some ideas, trust me healthy food is good, you don't want that freshman 15 to catch up to you too quick now!)
  • Alarm clock (or you can use your phone which is what I ended up doing last year, but make sure it doesn't die!)
  • Headphones (so you don't annoy your roommate with your choice of tv/music/movies/etc.) Here's three more headphones for variety, all of which are great for the price range. Klipsch, Vsonic, Sony(these Sony MDR-V6 go on sale every so often, they were literally just on sale for $54 and are absolutely fantastic for the price range)

    That's basically everything I either wish I had brought, or found very useful. Oh yeah, don't forget your cell phone, cell phone charger, laptop/desktop and appropriate cables. Also don't forget to do your laundry somewhat regularly, and that includes your sheets!

    Would you like a falafel with that?
u/cbracco · 1 pointr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu
u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use these throughout my apartment. Excellent quality and very high joule rating (4320).

u/panthersrule1 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Do you have any recommendations? I’m upgrading my tv to a 55” 4K. I have a surge, but don’t know if it’s good enough. How many joules do you think it should protect against? I don’t know that much about surges. Here’s what I have now:

u/AligaTC · 1 pointr/offbeat

Yeah, I have a similar one (mine's a bit bigger).

u/bluesam3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, there's no real reason to switch away from that PSU (cost is pretty well the only reason it isn't the standard recommendation). Surge protectors generally have multiple outputs, but they aren't equivalent: most such things do nothing much for surge protection. As for recommendations this will outright refuse to provide any non-safe electricity (so when it fails, it simply stops providing electricity, rather than providing unfiltered electricity). This doesn't have that feature (it just has an indicator light to tell you if it's protected or not), but that does mean that you wont have instant power offs once the MOVs fail.

u/cky2250 · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

This is what I use. I never have an issue

Belkin 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 8-Foot Power Cord, 4320 Joules (BP112230-08)

u/ElliotNess · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

Mine is similar, but the outlets swivel to allow room for stuff like OP.

u/JesusRollerBlading · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


get more than one. either a 2-3 pack of cheaper ones or one "high end" one with guarantees and articulating joints. check out this sexy beast, you'll be the envy of your roommates b/c look at it.

u/newDieTacos · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the advice!

I have one of these Belkin surge protectors:

and one of these APC Surgearrest surge protectors:

As a side note, would my electrician be okay with me running the Romex (not connected on either end?

u/mattsilv · 1 pointr/videos

I work in restaurant IT, and I can assure you that the Belkin Pivot-Plug is, above and beyond, the best surge protector.

u/kelly_kelli · 1 pointr/xboxone

Unfortunately, even though I know that I'm not supposed to, I have:

  • Xbox One X

  • Modem

  • Router

  • Phone Charger

  • Desktop

  • 2 Monitors

    In this.

    I only have two outlets and they are at opposite ends of the room. The other side has my tv, other xbox one, and cable set top box in another surge protector. My room is a rectangle, so it's narrow.

    But, very rarely do I have the desktop/monitor and xbox one/monitor on at the same time.
u/bcarlzson · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do yourself a favor and go buy a decent surge protector that will cover your stuff in case of a lightning strike or power surge. Here's one that's about $30 and includes coax and rj-45 connectors.

u/digitalyss · 1 pointr/migraine

Check this out

Put it in a desk lamp plugged into a big surge protector, switch it to red light, dim at night, and keep the fluorescent off. Voila

u/Murmur322 · 1 pointr/xboxone

This is the surge protector that I use for my tv/xbox. It has coax and an Ethernet in and out connectors in addition to the power strip outlets. I just run the coax to the modem through the power strip.

Edit: And it has the pivoting outlets. Those things are so great.

u/BrainlessBox · 1 pointr/INEEEEDIT

I like this Belkin power strip on Amazon much more than the concept. It swivels and the cord is 8 feet long! It's awesome, I have four at my house.

u/LoLDrifter · 1 pointr/burstcoinmining

Thank you for that link, much cheaper then what I was seeing on amazon. Might need to pick up 2 of these. I had bought this to use, but what is strange, 4 of the outlets on one side do not give any power. I thought shit is that the limit or is this thing broken. I might have to return it and look for something else.

u/Ruinf20 · 1 pointr/gaming

Every company makes ther power adapter to try and be the best, by doing that there all different. What you need it a power strip that can use any and all of them this is what I use in my game room and all through my house, it saves your life.

u/Schemawound · 1 pointr/synthesizers

This is my power strip of choice. 12 outlets and a number of them can pivot to get around wall warts.

u/jryanishere · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You need a smart power strip.

Then you plug your harmony hub into a red outlet or leave it plugged into a separate source, plug your TV into the Blue outlet, and plug all your switched loads into the green outlets.

Program a watch tv activity to TURN THE TV ON FIRST WITH A DELAY OF 5 SECONDS!, Very important!

Then allow it to turn on the rest of your equipment. It works very well.

Keep in mind, old av receivers require a standby current to keep their settings once their super capacitor or internal battery goes dead. This is rarely a user replaceable item, so once it dies, it dies, and the receiver forgets about settings every time power is pulled.

u/Geoff_Sanderson · 1 pointr/MAME

I mounted my motherboard and components to a 1/4" piece of MDF which was then mounted on the bottom of my cab. I attached the motherboard to the 1/4" piece of MDF with nylon spacers and pan head sheet metal screws. This allowed for air to get underneath the motherboard. I didn't bother with fiber washers or anything.

Depending on how much space you have in your cab, you might need less fans than you think.

As far as speakers go, you are better off buying cheap car speakers and wiring them to an amp. This allows you more flexibility with mounting. If you do want to use the 2.1 speaker system you have, you can use a smart power strip to power everything on, like this:

And yes ipac2 is good for 2 player setup. You can just wire up an arcade button to turn on/off your computer.

u/JasonInNJ · 1 pointr/Monitors

and my questions about the computer? I'm assuming USB doesn't turn off when it is in standby.

a master/slave power strip could work if the display power draw changes when you start using the PC again.

u/CalvinsQuest · 1 pointr/cade

I don't use a raspberry pi, but this is the strip I use for my PC based MAME machine:

u/Chunk_Games · 1 pointr/cade

What you want is a smart power strip. Shut it down properly and power everything down with the single press of a button.

u/DonFrio · 1 pointr/hometheater

Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1

u/Synthesis2k2 · 1 pointr/MAME

I used to have a cab set up that way. Then I got this.

It made it much easier, since getting to the regular power strip/outlet/computer power button was a pain. Now I just need to turn on the switch for the cabinet, and go. :)

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/audiophile

Some ideas:

u/lanemeyer88 · 1 pointr/Vue

My brother and his family were struggling with their new 1 tb cap with Comcast. He discovered the rest of the family wasn't always backing out of apps like Vue/Pandora/Netflix before shutting off the tv because they were expecting the hdmi cec to put the fire tvs to sleep. Either the FireTV or tv hdmi cec wasn't working correctly but he would turn on a tv later and find apps that had been running for hours while everyone was sleeping or at work/school. He added a smart power strip to every tv which shuts off power to FireTV when the tv gets turned off. It does take the FireTVs a little extra time to power up vs. waking up from sleep but it has solved his particular cap issue. I think this is the brand strip he bought:

u/I_want_all_the_tacos · 1 pointr/headphones

I used to have really loud buzzing coming through my JBL LSR30X monitors ever since I moved into my new apt. This buzzing noise was not apparent in any of my headphones through my headphone amps, but all of the sources I used, when connected to my monitors cause a loud buzzing in the monitors that was always present even when music was playing through them. I have no idea if that is exactly what you are experiencing but I finally found out I have really dirty power in my new apt. I bought this APC surge protector with EMI filters and I have no more buzzing.

u/Notuniquesnowflake · 1 pointr/sonos

Whenever I encounter any kind of AV problem, just unplugging everything and plugging it back in works 95% of the time. So I connected everything to one power strip (similar to this one). When anything gets wonky, all I have to do is flip it on and off again.

u/JeeperGeek · 1 pointr/vinyl

APC Surgearrest 3020J -- 11 outlets, angled plug, swivel attachment to the surge protector itself. Good build quality.
See the Wirecutter's review for in-depth analysis.
Buy on Amazon - currently $26.49

u/Tobaccin · 1 pointr/audiophile

Was curious to hear what people's setups are like regarding surge protectors/power strips. I'm currently shopping for some surge protectors, something like this. Was wondering if people just plug everything into one. I'm talking about the TV, desktop computer, XBOX and other consoles, maybe even a laptop, printer, and the audio gear such as headphone amp + dac and speaker amps, etc. What do you guys use? Do you guys use a separate surge protector solely for your audio gear? Does it even matter, or should I just go for a 10+ outlet one and plug everything in and leave it at that?

u/thx1138jr · 1 pointr/hometheater

It definitely is hard to make up your mind sometimes, especially once you catch the home theater bug. Take your time and read reviews. This is a great forum that will be able to answer all your question about everything home theater. ( In my theater I use pretty high end protectors from Brick Wall. Everywhere else I use these, which have gotten good reviews:

u/3wayhandshake · 1 pointr/audiophile

Those "Home Theater" power strips often test more poorly than very cheap ones.

For instance, this one at $26 tests better than that Belkin.

u/markseesred · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I always bring a 3 outlet with 2 usb ports with me when I travel.

Smiles everywhere.

u/crmaki · 1 pointr/gadgets

Looks like Amazon has a better price.

u/icanseestars · 1 pointr/gadgets

I've looked at this one:

Interesting but the reviews say it lacks power to charge 2 USB devices at once.

And I've looked at this one:

Reviews seem to indicate the possibility of a fire if you're trying to charge more than one device and it lacks the 110v power plugs.

u/kickstand · 1 pointr/travel

Be careful about using a splitter. The splitter itself has to be 220-compatible.

For example, I have this Belkin travel power splitter but it cannot be used outside North America.

EDIT: What I have is a bunch of these travel adpaters. They are not particularly small, but they are cheap. They will work with any device that is 120/220 compatible, like most chargers for electronics (but probably not your alarm clock radio).

u/winnar72 · 1 pointr/shutupandtakemymoney
u/redsnappa · 1 pointr/geek

Alternatively, this would do the trick too

u/jmnugent · 1 pointr/applehelp

> "if there was some lesser-known secret I hadn't heard of or some crazy trick to fix it or something."


Speaking as someone who's worked in the IT industry for 20+ years... the "secret" really is simple (for pretty much all electronic devices)

1.) Make sure you have good, clean, reliable power (IE = use a surge-protector or battery backup). Even a single time of plugging your power-cord into a "dirty" outlet can damage it. You may consider a small/portable surge protector such as this Belkin one.

2.) Treat your cables gently. Never pull/yank on them. Always pull using the base of the plug (never pull on the cable itself).

Also.. never fold/tightly wrap cables. Any extreme bending (especially at critical junction points, like where the cables meets the square/brick) can results in shorts or internal wire breakage.

u/adelope · 1 pointr/vita

The Vita charger is a standard USB charger, you can buy it for like $2, but I suggest you upgrade to a better charger like this.

The problem is the USB cable which is proprietary and isn't necessary compatible with every charger, there is a small pin on the cable, so you may need to scratch it a little bit. The cable itself is not cheap either. The original cable goes for $10. You can get OEM cable for $2 example. IMO, since you are only going to use the cable for charging, don't overpay.

u/Vole182 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

My wife and I travel international a couple times a year. Normally England, Australia or Japan.

We pack an HDMI cable, Belkin power strip, and power adapters.
HDMI cable
Power Adapters
And this power bar or strip

It pretty much covers all of our bases.

u/kanji_sasahara · 1 pointr/AskReddit

You don't need paperclips or thumbtacks, you can probably find it at printing centers around campus. A portable surge protector is probably a good idea
Better than an extension cable. Do you already have a smartphone? Since that will replace an alarm clock.

u/Beaver-Believer · 1 pointr/electronics

I recently bought two of these for each side of the bedroom beside the bed:

They are awesome.

u/the_dread · 1 pointr/travel

For packing in general, this thread on Flyertalk is great.

I took 3, as the eBags packing cubes come in 3. The biggest one held all of my clothes. The medium one has cords, chargers, adapters, etc. The small one has a pair of shoes. I don't have too much stuff, so if your stuff can't fit in all the cubes (more or less), just fiddle with it. Some people use one for dirty clothes. I just let my dirty clothes float around my bag and use it for padding and to take up irregular space.

Also, I forgot to include this in my other posts: Get an adapter for the EU sockets. If you charge lots of things (e.g. cellphone, laptop, iPad, traveling partner's stuff), you'll want a travel extension socket thing. I have this one and I love it.

u/Paroxysm_Rancor · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I suggest splurging on a decent UPS. Not only will it have surge protection, but allow the devices to be shut down without data corruption or loss. UPS's also clean the electric up by taking the jitter (peaks and troughs) out and leveling the signal. Thus easier on the devices.

You can even buy them with rg6/59 surge protection.They make inline ones.

u/shuddertostink · 0 pointsr/livesound

You know, at some point I probably should have figured out what the power requirements for our rig was, but really at the end of the day it's not like the halls were going to change their wiring for us (and I wasn't doing a permanent install).

I eventually got sick of the spaghetti balls of cables, extenders, strips etc and ended up using this and [these] ( and they really made life a lot easier, combined with a couple super long cables to avoid having to use breakout boxes.

u/Uromastyx63 · 0 pointsr/Guitar

This. The underlying/background ...hmmmmm... sounds like 60Hz hum, but the scratchy intermittent glitching isn't. If you live in the Northern hemisphere, Winter static (dry air, etc) can be a player. Word on the street is that dryer sheets rubbed on your cables can help reduce it, I'm not 100% sold, but it's easy and cheap to try.

Also, for the hum, you may want to look into a Ferrite Core style noise suppressor if your power-cable doesn't already have one.

u/Decyde · 0 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.

I got mine for $25 and this thing is the best surge protector you can get for stuff behind your entertainment system.

u/sterncapital718 · 0 pointsr/electrical

You can buy adapters that can be a temporary solution till you move back to your place.

These are 3 prong to 2 prong outlet adapters. To install them you take off the center screw on the outlet without taking off the face plate. Next plugin the adapter and a screw the small tab on them to the faceplate with the screw that was removed. If you have a good surge protector it should have an indicator light that tells you if you have a ground connection from the outlet with the adapter. Looks like this

If you dont feel comfortable doing this turn off the power before hand and make sure its off by using a volt meter or a small appliance.

u/TheAceMan · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

I use one of these:

Smart Strip SCG-3M Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet

u/monstehr · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

Belkin Mini Surge Protector/Dual USB Charger.

Especially useful for coffeeshops and airports where there are few plugs but everyone wants to charge up.

u/rinnip · 0 pointsr/electricians

IANAE, but I use these when I need individual switches. The quality is worth the price IMO.

Edit: Those switches you reference are 12v switches, and wouldn't last long with a "standard incandescent light socket".

u/shatel86 · -1 pointsr/buildapc

Get this:

My friend uses it to protect his audio production equipment. At this price it's a no-brainer. Handles up to 1200W.

u/eddyshinoda · -1 pointsr/hometheater

Will this help? For my country belkin give us insurance if damaged due to lightning.

u/EvilGreenDevil · -1 pointsr/cade

Why not use a PC?

To your question: a smart strip will work. Something like this

u/RewindRepeatIt · -3 pointsr/Assistance

Merry Christmas OP!

I'm trying to get DJ equipment to start my dream of being a DJ. It's kinda already started because through lots of legwork and thrift-store shopping I managed to get some barely-passable home audio stuff, but it can't take the strain of DJing and can't be used for anything larger than ~40 people. I've had to turn down gigs because of it and judging by how frickin' hot it gets after I play for a few hours, it's going to be dead soon.

I made an Amazon list of what I need to buy to be at a semi-professional level. The cheapest thing that's independently useful would be the microphone, I believe, but literally anything is greatly appreciated, even if it's just a cord for something I don't have yet or something. The speakers are the most important thing by far, but they're extremely expensive. - Dynamic microphone (the condenser mics pick up all the background noise and are way more prone to feedback) - Pop cover that would fit that mic - Mixer (without it the speakers and stuff won't work) - Professional software (the one I currently use is free software lacking a lot of the functionality of this) - Production software - Cheap keyboard MIDI with a drum pad to use with FL Studio - Monitor speakers - Cords for the montiors (I'd need 2) - Mackie Thump15s w/ cases and stands - Cables for the speakers and subwoofer - Subwoofer - Stand for the subwoofer - Lighting truss - Colored lights (it would need 2) - Strobe lights (2 as well) - Hooks for the lighting (1 per light, 4 total) - Security hooks for the lights (to save the lights if they fall from the hooks) - Powerstrip (I'd need 2) - Laptop/controller stand - 4-deck controller - Case for the controller

Not going for a sob story here, but rather explanation of why I don't have money to spend on this stuff - I've got no family and I've got Lyme's Disease which I wasn't allowed to treat back when I had a family (strictly against modern medicine) and now can't treat because of an error made on my government-provided health insurance that's so far been going on for 8 months and is yet to be fixed. Lyme destroys your joints, so standing and walking for a retail job (not yet out of college) is extremely painful for days afterwards. Once I get treatment I'm going to put my nose to the grindstone and get two jobs to finance it, but still, anything helps. If you go through my post history you'll see mention of a few Christmas gifts, specifically a set of headphones, and those are from friends. I really really really appreciate them because they put a lot of thought into them and read reviews and all, but I wound up not being able to use them, but instead returned them and spent the money on a professional set of headphones, which is why there are no headphones on that list of links.