Best power strips according to redditors

We found 972 Reddit comments discussing the best power strips. We ranked the 287 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Power Strips:

u/Chezzik · 143 pointsr/pics

And, although the extensions seem like a decent invention, they're not as great as just getting a power squid instead of a power strip.

Just last month, I ordered a number of these babies, and can't imagine how I lived without them:

EDIT: found one with a surge protector.

u/food_bag · 69 pointsr/circlebroke

We really have been outjerked by Reddit. For all the XBONE jokes and Snowden this, Obama that, atheism memes the other, they are now jerking about how a baby born dangerously premature is neither a hero nor a heroine. Yet when they throw some change to someone to buy a Mountain Dew while rocking some scruff, they are the world's greatest hero.

Fuck it, I'm going on a rant.

Search 'Hero' in Reddit, sort by Top. #3 result: A Redditor brings a power strip {extension cable} with him to the airport, calls himself a HERO for providing others with the facility to charge their mobile phones.


What's that you say, this self-aggrandising wannabe was downvoted to hell and back for misusing the word, and every comment called him out in Reddit's characteristic snarky and pedantic manner?

>You sir, are a great humanitarian.

Not in the top comment he's not.

Nor in the next 5 top comments, then we hit this:

>You could be a capitalist and charge money for the use of the outlets.

And our hero's response:

>> I was thinking the same thing. I figured I could get at least $5/outlet. And maybe $20 for my chair that was within cord's reach.

>>I could probably have got $30-$40 for the strip when I left and let the next person charge people to use it. My concern would be that i will be flying through the airport next week, and I might see my power strip still being used in one unbroken chain since I left it, only now it would $20/outlet and I would really need a charge.

Our hero would price gouge people at the airport. Oh teh downvotes. lol jk, [+204, -26], they love him and his gouging.

And I promise, the praise continues.

>I, too, travel with a power strip and am thus hailed.

Now others want to be praised for their heroism too!

Ctrl+F 'Hero': let's find those comments quoting the dictionary definition of 'hero', and how this guy doesn't qualify.

>Ok so we call them power boards in Australia. I was imagining you striding through an airport ripping your clothes off. I couldn't imagine why. EDIT: I could understand the hero part though.

Stripping off your clothes in the airport = hero. Premature baby successfully fighting for her life = fuck you.

>Be a real hero and get this one...

The size of the power strip determines the size of the hero.

>Most of that is just USB cables plugged in. If you really want to be the hero at the airport, bring a multi-port USB charger too.

Multi-port charger = heroic. Just more of the same. No-one calls him out.

This is just... I'm just baffled by this. She was a little baby girl at death's door, and the pedantry over the word 'hero' is everywhere, and upvoted to the top. He let people charge their fucking iPhones so they could play Angry Birds on the plane for slightly longer, and everyone agrees he's a hero.

Now we move into /r/theoryofreddit territory: why? Here's my theory: these kids can't ever be a premature baby girl, so they don't want that to be associated with heroism. They can, however, bring an extension cable to the airport, so they want that to be the mark of a hero.

I'll stop here because the only thing left to write is how Redditors are the lowest form of - you know what, don't start me. </rant>

u/garrisonc · 22 pointsr/geek

Not far into the comments section, I found this link:

Seems he could have saved some time in Photoshop with a quick Google search.

u/cardbross · 18 pointsr/geek

I like this version by Belkin, which is basically the same device (with a less irritating LED and 3 power +2 USB outlets)

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!

Thing |Price | Quantity
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1

Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/zoeypayne · 15 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I'm only mentioning this because the guy above you got a downvote... there are surge protectors available with an Ethernet cable pass through to protect against this exact issue. Source.

u/deepvirus · 15 pointsr/pics
u/stuckinqueue · 14 pointsr/DIY

Go for this if you don't want the surge strip deal and just one outlet

u/Orange427 · 14 pointsr/googlehome

Am I the only one who uses these?

they're the best.

u/willfe · 14 pointsr/Frugal

Gladly! Here is the model I use in my apartment. A touch on the pricey side, but worth it IMO. They make bigger ones too, but I haven't had the need for them yet.

u/jinglesassy · 11 pointsr/buildapc
u/Jeepdog539 · 11 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

That's exactly why I dont buy power strips, but rather power squids. Like this one

u/wkrick · 9 pointsr/MAME

A "Smart Strip" is a popular option...

It has 1 "control" outlet that you would plug your PC into. When you turn on the PC, the power strip turns on 3 other outlets (monitor, marquee lights, powered speakers). When you turn the PC off, it cuts power to the 3 other outlets.

To make turning the PC on/off more convenient from outside the cabinet, you can disconnect the PC start button from the motherboard, which is just a momentary contact switch and replace it with really long wires and a momentary contact switch on the outside of the cabinet. Note that windows is designed to shut down when you press the power switch so it works out great.

This is the switch I used. It mounts in the spot where the original cabinet's toggle power switch was located...

Radio Shack #275-609

For wire, I just picked up a roll of cheap, thin speaker wire (two-conductor).

Note that the surge protector cord is only 4 foot long, so you might need a heavy-duty extension cord. I recommend appliance extension cords that are sold at Home Depot and Lowes. They come in shorter lengths.

EDIT: Another (more expensive) option is a USB triggered power strip.

It works the same way as the "Smart Strip" above except that there's a USB cable that plugs into the PC. When the PC is powered on, the USB port gets power and triggers the power strip to turn on the rest of the outlets. Note that this will only work if your PC does NOT keep the USB ports always powered on. Some motherboards can be configured to have "USB standby power on/off" but some are always on with no option to turn it off.

u/barackstar · 8 pointsr/Vive
u/agent_of_entropy · 7 pointsr/DIY

Get a Smart Strip Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology. When the TV is turned off/on, the other devices plugged into the controlled outlets are switched off/on automagically.

u/PixelD303 · 7 pointsr/VaporwaveAesthetics

For music production these are still a thing. I have a rack of these. Startup feels like an Apollo mission.

u/UsePreparationH · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Smart plug, it gives you a remote on/off switch for anything you plug it into through a phone app or google assistant/alexa. Unless you have something like a light plugged into an always on outlet and you really want to turn it off from your bed, this isn't going to be something for you.

I have the HS110 which is the same thing but it has energy monitoring which is the main reason why I got it (current power in watts and it tracks daily, weekly, and monthly usage). This is similar to a Kill-A-Watt unit but you get the extra smart switch part of it. It it huge so it covers the 2nd outlet which is a disappointment so I would recommend the HS300 surge protector which is pretty much a $70 power strip with energy monitoring and each outlet can be controlled individually.

u/itguy1991 · 6 pointsr/homelab

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

  • PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)

  • Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)

  • Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.

  • Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02

    Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.


    Edit: additions in bold above
u/Kairus00 · 6 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

I have a 12 outlet version and it's a great device!

u/insomniac84 · 6 pointsr/geek

Yup, which is why the one sold at amazon that has been out on the market longer than this art student has had a computer is clearly fake.

u/Michael4825 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I'll go ahead and give you links to Amazon, but they're available everywhere. Tripp Lite, as /u/Knobodycares said, is a great brand. They're most known for their server racks, and UPS systems, but more importantly their PDU (power distribution units), which is what you need.

Their best (pricey but best-in-class), is the Isobar line. 4 outlet, 6 outlet, 10 outlet. They shutdown when a surge which would otherwise fry your equipment occurs, instead of simply allowing the power through.

Their other models, 7 outlet, 8 outlet, 10 outlet, are also much better than your average retail brand, and are generally cheaper. They all come with some form of insurance, as-well.

These are only a handful of options, check out the rest here.

u/evoltap · 5 pointsr/Austin

I use this with some very expensive gear behind it. $10,000 coverage plus favorable reviews of it doing its job.

u/shanew21 · 5 pointsr/Austin

Your friendly reminder to use a surge protector, and that surge protectors only last a few years (or one major surge). I like this one because it shows you when you are protected by surges with an indicator light. When the surge protection wears out, the light will shut off and you should replace it. It also comes with a $300,000 equipment warranty.

u/thebasementtapes · 5 pointsr/sonos

Hey no worries at all, we all have to learn at some point. this is part of the enjoyment with turntables for me, the tinkering. I don't have the exact model of turntable you have but does it have something that looks like this? The silver thing is a ground connector. you just need to get a copper wire and connect it to that and then connect the wire to a metal pipe, OR VERY CAREFULLY touch it to a screw on a power outlet. DO NOT PUT IT IN THE OUTLET just touching the screw.

Also, does the hum go away if you touch the metal ground connector with your hand. Humans are usually grounded so we can ground the Turntable if we touch a metal part on it. That is a good was to test it is a grounding issue.

Also some other things to try. Try it in a different area with a different outlet. Some outlets are not grounded. You can buy a surge protector that will tell you if the current is grounded too.

Another thing to test. Does it hum when you plug the turntable in and don't have the needle down or does it only hum if you have the needle on a record. If it hums with the needle NOT on a record it is for sure a grounding issue. If it only hums when the needle is on the record then it might be the cable or bad connectors on the turntable.

u/FMA5880 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Agreed. Something like this I think is perfect:

u/tielknight · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I wouldn't given some of the reviews regarding the warranty and it not properly protecting what is hooked up to it.

They also seem to like denying your lifetime warranty if you don't hold onto your receipt, even 7 years later, according to this reviewer.

u/diatho · 5 pointsr/consulting

an external backup battery for your tablet/ phone for when you need to charge your phone but can't find a charger

a 3 to 1 power strip, this is great for when you can find an outlet and need to charge multiple things or when you find an outlet and someone else is using it. simply ask to plug your power strip in and share. this model also has USB

u/MuanaKafi · 5 pointsr/peacecorps

Hey-O! Liberia RPCV 2010-2012. Congratulations! Liberia is a great country to serve in, and has AMAZING staff. The last time I went to do a short response service half of my luggage was coffee and food stuff. I think most of us brought a bunch of stuff we never used the first time. You can find most things in country.



I cant recommend that thing enough. I used it every time I was near electricity to power everything at once. I still use it in my house today. I also strongly encourage a kindle and try and pirate a bunch of books that you can share.


Computer is definitely nice to have for entertainment, but I never really used mine for work or project related things.

Linen clothes for work. Stuff that looks professional, but breathes.

Reach out if you have any other questions!

u/mal5305 · 5 pointsr/EDC

New to /r/EDC, here's my start:

  1. Notebook, puzzles, & book I'm currently reading (A Short History of Nearly Everything)

  2. Gloves

  3. Beanie

  4. Nalgene

  5. Firefox-branded Ogio backpack

  6. Meds

  7. mini-USB cable

  8. Gerber multi-tool + Leatherman Freestyle CX

  9. Kobalt flashlight

  10. Belkin mini-surge + USB

  11. Klipsch Image S4 headphones

  12. Case for business cards

  13. Spare earbuds

  14. Contacts + glasses

  15. Zune HD (yes, a Zune)

  16. Spare 8GB flash drive

  17. Nike sunglasses

    Items 18-24 are always in my pockets (+/- a few extras occassionally)

  18. Chapstick

  19. Keys

  20. Gerber pocketknife

  21. Gum (always always always)

  22. 8GB flash drive

  23. Money clip (credit/debit cards, license, a few business cards)

  24. Fob for office

  25. (Not pictured) HTC Inspire 4G

    Very open to suggestions/critiques. I really enjoy seeing all the different EDC collections, from minimalist to zombie apocalypse-ready.
    I'm thinking about putting together a car/bug-out bag, but that'll come later.

    EDIT: formatting
u/exjentric · 5 pointsr/Frugal

This shuts off the power to your outlet after 30 minutes, 3 hours, or 6 hours. I think it'll help me, since I plug my phone in to recharge at night, and I'm sure just a 3 or 6 hour-recharge will be adequate.

This turns off your DVD-player et al. when you turn off your TV. I wonder if it could be used for computers and computer accessories too.

I haven't purchased these items, but I plan to when I move next week.

u/beefsiym · 5 pointsr/Roku

you could buy a smart power strip that senses when the TV is turned off, and thus cuts power to the Roku.

u/jcrabapple · 5 pointsr/googlehome

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa

This is as close as I could find... Might work with ifttt

u/jam905 · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

Aeon Labs makes a zwave power strip with individually controlled outlets.

u/MarkK7800 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.


Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

u/aparmar84 · 4 pointsr/InteriorDesign


But it looks like you have a lot of things to plug in, so I recommend this one. I use it at my place, and I love that it has the tilting plugs. Can fit some many more things.

u/fudsak · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

Power your Chromecast via a USB port on your TV. That will at least turn off the Chromecast when your TV is off. If you don't have a free USB port to use, there are power strips that use one device's power status as an input to trigger the rest of the strip on and off (example).

u/j2brown · 4 pointsr/pics
u/ShinyTile · 3 pointsr/hometheater
u/roushimsx · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.

Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be

You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.

I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.

u/hendusoone · 3 pointsr/technology

So... get a surge protector with coax protection. For example:

u/Fourthcubix · 3 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu
u/therippa · 3 pointsr/cableporn

Here you go -

No matter what length you need, make sure to get the 12 outlet one, since you'll never know what you'll need to plug in

u/BleedBlackAndOldGold · 3 pointsr/uiowa

Solid list! Two underrated items to add to the list that come in handy throughout the college career and beyond: A Bucket (10-14 Qt.) and a surge protector/power strip.

The surge protector is self explanatory - outlets are high demand in dorm rooms, this one is awesome.

As for the bucket - you won't know you need one until it's too late. It's uses include: carrying items, storing items, puking in, cleaning with, 3rd trashbin, sitting on, icing drinks, jam sessions, pranks, drunk helmet, watering plants, snow castles, sand castles, poor-mans picnic basket.... The list can go on! Get yourself a bucket.

u/stephentkennedy · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

I got a few Belkin Pivot Strips recently. They have a lot of outlets and seem to work pretty well so far.

I really liked theQuirky Surge Protectors but I don't think they're made any more. One of my two just died on me.

I'm not a fan of the Power Squid. Takes up too much room.

u/ChocoJesus · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

It look's cool, but for the price, I'd rather go for functional and get 12 outlets instead of 6.

u/PacoTaco321 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

[I just bought one of these, which has 12 outlets and an 8ft cord.](Belkin 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord - Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and more (4,320 Joules)

It also has a $300,000 connected equipment warranty in case your stuff does still get damaged.

u/LocoMojo77 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice cooler. Got an H7 for my birthday last month. Love it. Dropped my cpu temp by 15'c

I plan on replacing the stock fan with a corsair LL 120 once it gets here.

As for surge protector..

I suggest the [Belkin BP112230-08 PivotPlug 12-Outlet Surge Protector] (

u/Spongi · 3 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

Invest in one of these. It has indicator lights to let you know it's properly grounded.

u/xoScreaMxo · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Since you seem to know a bit more than I do about this stuff, what's your opinion on this? I'm thinking of buying it, I could use a good surge protector. Thanks for any opinions

u/will_self_destruct · 3 pointsr/cade

Have you looked at Smart Strip? You may be able to make something work using it. I use it for shutdown procedures in my pinball cabinet.

u/zupzupper · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Couple ideas for you:

  • There's a Pyle 2 channel amp with a usb charger on it, looks like it does a lot of extra stuff.



  • You may want to consider a wall splitter that does USB power + Regular outlet. It's probably going to be the cheapest option.

    Belkin Splitter
u/nickpickles · 3 pointsr/evergreen

This and some storage device/devices from here.

I'm not advocating you smoke a bunch of weed or any at all, but do want to keep you from losing grants/getting arrested/getting kicked out over silly outdated laws.

Other things you will need in school:

  • Cash

  • Sodastream if you like soda or carbonated water

  • Headphones

  • A nice pillow or two. A few things to not cheap out on ever, by Nickpickles: dental work, shoes, toothbrushes, pillows. In that order.

  • If you work out, a kettlebell or something small you can use in your room.

  • A mindset that you are living for nine months or longer in a small room, so keep your possessions minimal and organized. This impresses people you bring home, as well.

  • On the previous note: condoms. Don't fuck around around and catch crotch germs.

  • First aid kit. A good one as you probably don't have health insurance. Mine is a bit overkill, but everything here can be found for cheaper than cheap.

  • A surge protector. After having gear fried at Evergreen and two other places I've lived here, I have learned not to trust the combo that is PSE/old wiring. Keeping with the minimalist theme, these Belkin ones have worked fantastically for me, and they're good enough for Steve Wozniak.

    Things not to bring:

  • Huge shit. Really, you're gonna bring a fucking couch, two chairs, a coffeetable like ten shitty tapestries, a microwave, a Foreman grill, minifridge, foosball table, and other big fucking dumb shit that one of your other 3-5 roommates might also be bringing? Unless it's a huge TV just say no. If you require it, like a microwave, and no one brings one acquire it later.

  • Your high school yearbook. Seriously, this shit is dumb. The amount of times I went back to a girl's dorm room only to have to endure a 45 minute recounting of high school in pictoral form before even entering the grope stage was astounding. Yearbooks have blocked more play than rain delays.

  • Your drumset, huge amps, etc. Unless your whole dorm is a family-band together, this sucks for everyone else involved. Bonus fuck you points if you play a cover of Creep, do "ironic hip-hop covers", or play any song in Against Me's catalog.

  • Your boffing gear/other large dork shit. Know what's cool? D&D gamemaster dragon manuals store flat.

  • Your significant other that isn't enrolled in school. Oh cool, now our shitty cramped confines are more shitty and cramped for at least two months because face it, you'll probably be breaking up real quick. The latter part makes the final few weeks a real shitshow.

u/zeug666 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Along those lines:

If an outlet isn't "working" plug in something to check. A working item, such as a lamp or a fan is a great indicator that the outlet is receiving power.

There are a variety of reasons that a particular outlet wouldn't be receiving power, so it helps to double check.

Always check the switch; power strip/surge protector, switched outlet, breaker, etc, etc - this goes with the thing about checking the power.

If the problem outlet isn't properly grounded, that may cause an issue (not an electrician).

OP could try another AC to USB adapter (commonly provided with smart phones). Pretty much any (powered) USB source should work to charge your device, which is why I carry one of these with my gadgets.

u/Geeenius · 3 pointsr/apple

Check out XtremeMac's InCharge Duo:

Or Griffin's PowerDock

You can get two of them for your iPhones and iPod Nano. Then get two iPad docks for your iPads, and then a Dock for your Shuffle. Power them all off a Belkin Mini Surge Protector:

Plug the two Dual Chargers and the iPod Shuffle adapter into the AC outlets, and the iPad Docks into the USB ports.

u/Remy45 · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

They make power strips that do that.

u/edselpdx · 3 pointsr/Frugal

Get yourself a Kill-a-Watt and test for yourself.

I have fixed some of this with my entertainment system by investing in one of these. It turns off power to peripherals if the TV itself is off--my Apple TV, DVD player, and connected computer are off-off when the TV's off. I keep my DVR hooked to the always-on plug so it can record things when I'm not home or not watching TV because I hate commercials that much and never watch live TV.

u/Jimbozu · 3 pointsr/pics

I'm gunna blow your fucking mind here:

Surge Protected

Not surge protected

u/espo83 · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

I always liked the look of these. It would make it easier to have NES, SNES, Sega and all the consoles with big transformers all plugged in.

u/gladiwokeupthismorn · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

Tripp Lite 7 Outlet (6 Individually Controlled) Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, & $25K INSURANCE (TLP76MSG)

u/calley479 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm using SmartThings and I love it. Though I couldn't tell you the differences since I don't use Wink directly.

I have several Link bulbs, so those should work. And your GoControl kit is all zwave, so it should be fine. I have several of their contact and motion sensors on mine, though I'm unsure about the siren.

I don't know about the power strip though... can't find anyone discussing it on the SmartThings forum. You might try emailing support, they should know if it's supported.

Is it this one: Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius if so, let me know if you get it working. Seems to be the best price on a smart switch yet.

u/GunzenRozez · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

I am so tempted. Not having to fumble around to shut off the skimmer, and pumps for feeding would be sweet. Have to admit to. I have a place
to mount too.

u/sadpony · 3 pointsr/ender5

The on/off plug just kills the power, its not initiating a system shut down or anything. I use a Octopi with a webcam to print and monitor and I have it and the printer in a smart plug. Works great for me and has saved me some pain in the past. Plus I don't like leaving it on unattended for long periods. I would definitely get an OctoPi going if you're doing things remotely though. Its got a ton of features, but makes remote control easy.

Edit: I use this to control 2 printers, two raspberry Pi, and some lamps. I was out of town for a week and I just had my wife remove the prints each morning, but I was able to work on it and turn on the lamp when I knew it wasnt going to bother her to check on prints (versus leaving it on always)

u/monicakmtx · 2 pointsr/googlehome

I whole-heartedly agree with the TP-Link advice. They JUST WORK...PERIOD. You can do a search on Amazon for smart power strip. This one is Amazon's Choice. Good ratings but not near as many reviewers


u/mwarps · 2 pointsr/homelab

Maybe this will be more cost effective..


u/teiji25 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Like this? Not yet released but soon.

Edit: This should also be what you want.

Or if you need more outlets.

u/ThisAccountIsFishy · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

While there are screw in bulbs, they are meant for nano tanks mostly. With that budget have you considered T5 and cheap LED lights? I’d recommend the Current USA with four of these T5 HO fixtures

With these lights you’ll for sure grow any coral you want easily. You can put the T5 on these wifi controlled power strips so you can set them on timers and the LED has built in programming.

u/neat_username · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This is the receiver that is often recommended around here. It'll future proof you for when you do upgrade but it's the top of your budget.

If you're looking for a simpler option - this one is pretty bare-bones.

The watts per channel doesn't matter nearly as much as you would think. If you're driving your old HTIB Onkyo speakers, just make sure your impedance matches and you're all set as long as you're not looking to drive them to ear-splitting levels constantly.

Without using something like a Harmony remote to turn on and off all your devices, the easiest way to power on/off your receiver is using a smart power strip. (That was just the first Amazon listing, you can poke around for more offerings if you want).

u/l0keman · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace


It's basically one of the only REAL surge protectors you can buy. More importantly, it removes EMI and RFI and takes a cruddy electrical system in an old house or even a new house if your electrician sucked, and makes it clean so it stops burning your electronics. Other surge protectors have no filters and don't stabilize the electrical signal. Most surge protectors don't do squat and aren't even rated for lightning.

u/FatPhil · 2 pointsr/gpumining

it has a 15a circuit breaker inside it. from this listing. anything else i should look for?

u/ZombieGrot · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Stop as in freeze or stop as in reset? If it reset (and here we enter the realm of speculation) then it may be that OctoPi reset itself (brown out detection?) and as it was coming back to life it triggered the bootloader on the Anet to reset the main processor.

Anyway, something like this may be affordable. Won't supply power like an UPS but can help in some situations.

Be aware that surge suppressors that use MOVs can fail catastrophically. See here among others.

u/sweaty_clitoris · 2 pointsr/NYvapers

I always charge my batteries with a Motorola Cell Phone adpater and a surge protector like this one. That should help with the power issues.

u/Keboose · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

It's unfortunate, but true. Although theoretically, I shouldn't have a problem with the communication stuff, I know mine definitely does NOT do that. I'm using it just fine with this $12 charger off amazon (attached to this because I don't trust it that much.)

If you look at what /u/bradn said, do you think one of those supplies off ebay would work?

u/drtonmeister · 2 pointsr/electrical

The above link is a 5 outlet strip with a circuit-breaker that is push-back-in to reset, but no switch.

I've worked with several supervisors who would refuse to have anything mission-critical on a power-strip that had a switch - either someone stepping on it under a desk, or someone setting something down on top of it could switch it "off" at an inopportune moment.

I've found the easiest to find are the 3 to4-ft long wiremold strips with outlets spaced every 4 to 6 inches, rack-mount strip that still have a switch but have it under a cover that requires unclipping before you can manipulate the switch, and the good old industrial supply places where you will pay 2 to 3 times what the hardware store will charge but find exactly what you desire as one of the 200 power-strip options.

u/Thatisdifficult · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here you go.

I made some very large improvements for slightly more.

    • -

      You seem like the kind of person who rarely upgrades, someone who favors doing it long-term (4+ years) rather than short-term (1 to 3 years). If it's possible, I suggest getting the R7 3700X; it's got a LOT better single-core and multi-core performance than the R7 2700X, and may be more what you're looking for. The R7 3700X's much high single-core performance also means much better performance across the entire Adobe suite. The very impressive multi-threaded performance should also be excellent at streaming for a very long time, especially since you just want to do 1080p and don't mind going down to 720p later down the line.

      I'm assuming you want the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC because it comes with Bluetooth and Wifi. I swapped in an X570 that gives the same features. If you want to avoid the headaches that have been prevalent throughout r/buildapc as of now, get X570 instead, if you want to use Ryzen 3000 out of the box with zero issues. However, if you're patient, you can save $49 by updating the BIOS by using USB BIOS Flashback, all you need is a flash drive. But then again, you may want to use X570 if you want to use multiple very fast NVMe SSDs, but the majority of people don't need this.

      Cheaper 2x8GB 3000MHz CL16 RAM.

      Much faster 1TB NVMe SSD for $21 less.

      Upgraded the GTX 1060 6GB to the RX 5700. The RX 5700 is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2060 Super/RTX 2070 for only $350. If you chose to get the B450 mobo, you can even squeeze in the RX 5700 XT, which is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2070 Super/GTX 1080 Ti/Radeon VII/RTX 2080 for only $400. I strongly recommend waiting for aftermarket versions of the RX 5700/5700 XT to come out in mid-August for better cooling, lower temps, lower noise, and better performance.

      Swapped in the MX330-G for much better airflow, this'll make your components run much cooler.

      This 550W Gold PSU is more than enough for your PC; it also comes with a 10 year warranty.
    • -

      > I would also like to know any options for power surge protection. My current computer got wacked by a sudden issue with our powerline which would provide power intermittently. This has caused it to be able to operate but freeze and BSOD out of nowhere. The HD also 'creaks' so this just signals the effects of that event.
      > I want to avoid that from happening again on this new build, so any suggestions would be great.

      A simple surge protector like this might be what you're looking for in case of another power surge; after several surges, it'll stop working, and you'll need to get a new one (there's usually a built-in indicator that says whether or not it can take any more surges).

      Maybe consider also getting a UPS (uninterruptable power supply) just in case a power outage happens; this'll allow you to back up important data so you don't lose it.

      Both a surge protector and a UPS would be good ways to protect your investment.

      > Another detail that may help: I also would like to stream my art. I can do that already without much an issue but there is definitively a minor lag (both in the program and the stream itself). This has caused me to just do webcam streams. Looking also for a setup that helps with video editing for future tutorials I have in mind (via Premier Pro/ After Effects).

      The R7 3700X should alleviate any lag problems with your art streams (what is your old CPU anyways?).

      I mean the R7 2700X will too, but the R7 3700X has that extra OOMPH for the long term.
u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This would be my suggestion of what to buy for $3000. I'm sure most people on this sub would disagree with my more budget oriented picks. I'm just putting it out there.

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong.

Item | Price
VIZIO P-Series Quantum 65” | $1,500
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 | $505
Denon AVRS740H | $403
100ft Speaker Wire | $13
Surge Protector | $25
Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield TV | $180
HDMI Cables (2x) | $13
Total | $2,666
Optional |
Banana Clips | $20
VESA Mount | $35
Atmos Speakers (In Ceiling) | $75
Atmos Speakers (Stand Alone)
| $240

For 4K and HDR it is very important that your HDMI cables are capable of 18Gbps. I have never had any signal issues with Monoprice cables, and the slim form factor of these cables is ideal for cable routing and management. Two cables is the bare minimum you need to get up and running. Obviously buy the appropriate length and amount that you need.

**For the Atmos speakers you only need one of the two options. In-ceiling speakers are objectively the superior quality and cheaper option. But they are not realistic for everyone's living situation. That is why I included the stand-alone speaker option. The speakers I picked would replace your two surround speakers and act as both surround and Atmos channels.

u/iheartaegislash · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm not sure. A buddy of mine helped me with my build and told me it was something to watch out for. (Apparently he used to work at office max/depot or something and had a few customers with that happen.) From what I understand, if you have a power strip kind of like this, you can plug the coaxial cable into it and then to your device and it solves the problem.

u/HerbertGWells · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There is no such thing. You can just buy a regular power extension that has built-in surge protection. Then you simply plug the PC and monitors into that.

Like this:

A UPS is an entirely different thing altogether. An Uninterruptible Power Supply, or UPS, is a special kind of battery back-up system that is designed to help prevent data loss in the case of complete power loss.

u/tabatchoy · 2 pointsr/declutter

Maybe invest in a 12 outlet?

u/ChaksQ · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I use one of these for my A/V equipment that's got spacing for wall warts.

Also if I recall correctly UK power plugs are huge so most wall warts are the size of the plugs. Airz might be from a country that uses those monstrosities.

u/mandlar · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I use two of these power strips, perfect for large adapters.

u/FingerBangGangBang · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Belkin 8-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 6-Foot Power Cord, 2160 Joules (BP108000-06)

u/d3vourm3nt · 2 pointsr/metalmusicians

Hey man....I'll give you a breakdown of everything I own to make music. But you have to be aware, that there is a HUGE learning curve to home recording...and until you get proficient with your DAW and learning about all sorts of settings and how to set up your audio and workflow and what cable gets plugged into where and yadda yadda, you will find that there are days where it can get aggravating. And then once you finally get the hang of it, and you can record something with somewhat ease, you will find that it sounds like garbage, and then you realize you gotta learn all about mixing, and the struggles that comes with.

So first and foremost, just make sure you are aware that even if you had all the money in the world, it's going to take a good chunk of time before you feel comfortable and etc.


here is a list of everything that should help you get started.

I assume you're a guitarist yeah?

First off, just buy the full version of Reaper. It's $60. It's worth it.
Also, for drums, I use Steven Slate Drums...The full kit is worth it..but if you want just the $40 version, that will work also.

For an audio interface, the best quality/bang for your buck would probably be something from Focusrite

And then you will need a set of monitors as well....again, the best quality/bang for your buck IMO is a set of these

And then of course you're going to need things like cables, etc.

XLR cables for mics,

balanced cables for connecting things like your interface to your monitors, etc,

get some instrument cables as well if you don't already have some,

A good surge protector as well, can't recommend this one enough, it has rotating sockets so you can fit everything on it.

From then, its just a matter of how much money you want to spend, and what all you want to do.

How do you plan to get your guitar tone. Are you going to mic a cab? If so, look into something like an SM57. If you wanna do it the cheap/free way, be warned you will be dealing with a latency issue. USB interfaces have latency, so monitoring your tone can cause some issues sometimes. You plug in your guitar raw straight into the interface, and throw on some plugins on the track that give you your tone. If you want to hear just a raw, clean guitar, there won't be any latency. But if you want to record while hearing your distortion, the computer has to take your clean signal, process it through the plugins, and then back out to the monitors, so there will be a split second of latency if you don't have things set up correctly and if your pc specs arent up to par..and even so, you never can truly get to 0 latency without spending some SERIOUS money.

If you have some extra money, I would highly recommending getting something like this eleven rack...I personally use this. You can bypass the latency issue by choosing what you monitor on the you want to monitor what is coming from the input (the eleven rack) or the playback (the computer) or a blend of both. So essentially i can just listen to my guitar live as I'm recording straight from the Eleven Rack, but i'm not acutally 'monitoring' it in Reaper. By doing so, my guitar doesn't have to travel through the computer and back out, thus no latency. You can really get some great tones out of this thing also...I like to call it the 'Poor Man's AxeFX'. Here's an example of something i'm working on...both using the eleven rack and the steven slate drums, so you can get a sense of the quality of the drums and guitar tone. I have done some slight eq'ing and stuff, but nothing dramatic.

Of course you don't need something like that for guitar, there are plenty of plug ins that are free that can help you with tone.

And lastly, as far as plug ins go, if you dont wanna mic a cab, or use something like an eleven rack, just search on youtube "free plugins for metal guitar" or "free metal guitar plugins" or whatever, and just watch. Youtube is your friend when wanting to learn about how to use reaper and finding plugins. I know for a fact there are full playlists out there to learn how to use reaper properly, from start to finish. So consider looking for those.

For other basic plug ins like EQ, Compression, Noise Gate, etc, I wouldn't worry about those. Reaper comes with like 13 or so of it's own plugins. They honestly are some great plug ins as well, and are all you really need.

Here's a picture of my set up, with all the stuff I suggested in this post.

Hope that helps.

u/catloving · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'd just get a new PSU (power box) equal or better than yours. Remove old power box AND check motherboard/ports/spots for scorch marks. (If that's so, you need a new board).

Plug new power source into board, and connect your hard drive mouse and keyboard (nothing else) and boot up. While booting, watch the BIOS for issues and sit there and sniff - any smells coming from anyone? Run the computer doing some average things, surfing, playing video, sound - any smells there? Check your usb ports, all of them...Ok? Good.

Power down, and connect anyone else who hasn't connected power wise. Like CDROM or something else. Reboot, sniff, drive for a bit, see how that goes.

AND NEVER PLUG STRAIGHT INTO A WALL. The electricity in a house fluctuates wayyy too much. Your pc wants smooth predictable feed, not twitchy. Get a good power strip (I use this and it helps smooth it a bit, plus has a surge protector that will save your machine.

So: new PSU (look in your case right now and tell us what you have)
Power strip so you don't make smoke again.

don't feel too bad, I once plugged a machine into a strip (that was over loaded) at work, booted up and POOF fried the PSU, all the magic smoke left.

u/itsallaboutthestory · 2 pointsr/DeskCableManagement

I'm 98% certain the desk I have is a Linnmon desk as well and I've mounted the SIGNUM Cable management tray under it. I used the shortest drywall anchors I could find (like this but not that specific pack, I just had some lying around). It's been attached for over 3 years now with no issues. I even mounted my surge protector (12-outlet belkin ) upside down under the desk with no issues.

u/keebs63 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I love this one. Amazing protection for a rather decent cost. It's got very sturdy build quality as well. $300,000 in protection if it doesn't protect whatever's on it.

u/___Paladin___ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Disclaimer: I am not the best in the world with cables. My needs were to simply get the stuff off the floor and remove spaghetti danger traps when navigating. I didn't want anything too permanent in case I needed to alter my setup and I couldnt modify the desk. Everything below is just for inspiration purposes, as I'm sure much more could be done for much less. This should cover some common items in cable management, though.

This is the route I took. I didn't really have the cable length to play with at the time and didn't feel like messing with more cables.

The key players here are dmoose power box to hold a large belkin outlet filled to the brim with power cables and transformer boxes. Good ventilation on the box and no thermal issues.

For the behind the monitor stuff I used reusable cable ties to bundle runs together and sleeved them with zipper wire organizers .

u/NHGuy · 2 pointsr/videos

I've had one of these for almost 10 years and just bought another last week.

u/SpaghettiYetiConfett · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Put the second monitor on a lazy Susan on the edge of his desk so he can rotate the screen and watch Netflix in bed on his computer. Should only cost $2 and vastly increases quality of life :D

Other things:

-- Ties for wire management -

-- Rotating Power strip and duct tape to tape that shit to the underside of the desk (beer will be spilled at some point) -

-- Computer lock and cable to stop pesky thieves

-- LEDs that are daisy-chained and can be plugged into a USB

-- A USB hub for all his gadgets

-- Wireless bluetooth speaker (many uses outside of his normal computing)

-- Microsoft ergonomic keyboard 4000 - most comfortable keyboard ever -

-- Bluetooth touch mouse -

-- Exercise ball chair (also, with that weight limit... Lots of fun can be had doing.. Activities.. Of all sorts... Ahem..) -

-- Some sweet headphones -

-- A handheld wireless keyboard/mouse (not what you think, this is badass. I have one. He can use it for presentations and stuff too) -

-- Go to a pawn shop and get a third computer monitor (make sure his gfx card can handle it)

-- USB can cooler or 'hot plate' that keeps either your can of beer cool or your coffee warm

Anything with a link I own and definitely recommend.

u/lightfork · 2 pointsr/electricians

I see your problem, you need one with a black cord.

u/mccarseat · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Yup, i have a few old game systems and they all have big "wall wart" plugs. So you get one of these!!

Belkin 8-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 6-Foot Power Cord and Telephone Protection, 1800 Joules (BP108200-06)

Or any other brands equivalent.

u/Celestro · 2 pointsr/pics

Thank you!

I'm gonna install this. HARD.

BTW it's much cheaper on Amazon

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

> Furman manufacture a sequencer that does exactly this, with three separate timed events in sequence

Another option is a "smart" power strip. They have a current sensor on one outlet and then turn some other outlets on/off. When you switch off the "master" device, a few seconds later it will cut power to the other devices. Some example models:

  • Tripp Lite AV88SATG
  • APC P8GT
  • Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip

    I have an older APC model than the above, but they look to be very similar. It has a current sensitivity adjustment for the master outlet, which is nice, although I'd also like some control over the timing.

    This approach only gives you the proper power-on sequence, obviously, as it's always reacting to the "master" device, so it can't turn off the audio equipment until after it detects you've turned off the computer.
u/acconrad · 2 pointsr/howto

The worst offenders all revolve around an entertainment center. Which is why one of these bad boy surge protectors were made. Connect your TV in as the master unit, then plug in your game system, speakers, cable box, etc...

this surge protector specifically cuts power when it's off, but better, it will purposefully cut off those "phantom power" units that are joint to the master outlet. And then the green ones are for anything that needs dedicated power regardless of master being on. AND you don't need to physically unplug everything, which is awesome.

So I unplug my toaster, lamps, etc...but I just keep this surge protector for my entertainment center and boom no worries. Definitely worth the $30 bucks and my electric bill is like $20/mo, already paid itself off.

u/VMU_kiss · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Sorry I'm Australian so you may not call it that it's a powerstrip in the US.

This is what I mean if this helps:

Basically used for PC's where once the PC is off it turns off the rest of the outlets but when the pc is back on it turns on the outlets meant for printers etc.

If it's hooked up to the xbox it will turn all the sockets on when xbox is on and just use some usb power supply plugged into it and your good to go

u/UnGermane · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These look amazing. But they're over $20 after shipping, and you didn't mention a limit, so I'm going to assume that's way over.

This, on the other hand, was one of the first gifts anyone on this sub sent me, and it is fantastic. If someone else requests this, or if the winner happens to be an add-on item and you need a little extra something, get this, and do not feel bad about it for one minute.

u/redfiche · 2 pointsr/apple

That for around $40 or this for $12. I chose the latter last time this was posted. Maybe it's not as elegant, but it's functional.

u/da4 · 2 pointsr/chicago

When I still flew on business regularly I carried one of these Belkins.

u/a_midgett · 2 pointsr/travel

Lots of good suggestions in here. A couple specifics from my trip:

  • This flashlight Tiny, rugged, and amazingly bright for just a single AA battery. Spendy, but worth it.
  • A mini surge protector to go with your travel adapter (kit). Share it in airports when there's only one wall socket.
  • An unlocked iPhone or Andriod smart phone. You'll have travel apps, wi-fi access for Tripadvisor and Wikitravel, digital guidebooks if you need them, and plenty of podcasts, music, and movies for those long bus rides. Oh yeah, it's a phone, too. Seriously, after my passport, this is the most important thing in my travel bag.
u/fire_rice · 2 pointsr/travel

When I travelled several European/UK countries from Canada I charged my various devices with this power bar and 3 in 1 adapter

I have been extremely happy with them, since I can simultaneously charge all my devices at once and no worries about voltage issues/power surges since it has a surge protector. The usb ports are super handy since I only need to carry the various wires, and no wall attachments. It is also useful for charging phones for new foreign friends. The only drawback is the size. It isn't very heavy, but can be clunky to carry around. I found carrying all my wires, plugs and adapters in a zippered pouch was a very convenient solution.

The adapter is really down to personal choice, but I quite like how sleek and compact the Targus is. Most people I know recommend buying the cheapest adapter, since you will always lose them, but for me having a compact universal charger was worth the money. Bonus with this adapter is if you are just going out for the day and want to only bring your adapter and phone charger along it is a much easier to throw in your bag then a huge all in one square adapter

Just my 2 cents, but I have been very happy with my set up over the last 5 months travelling.

u/nobodytouch · 2 pointsr/Surface
u/bookemdanno · 2 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

>asked another man to remove one of his plugs from the wall so I could plug my laptop in.

That's why I always carry

u/AlanBeforeTime · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

ZOMG We Need this!

This because you can never have enough outlets and those extra USB plug ins

u/TheDoNothings · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/UMich22 · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

Here is the model I have. It was half that price when I got it though...

u/13Coffees · 2 pointsr/Frugal

We bought something similar to [this surge protector] ( We use our Xbox as the controller for everything else since we run all our TV and movies through it. It cuts power to the TV, sound, etc. when we turn it off.

u/MarkSPI · 2 pointsr/electricians

I know, and I can buy them, or buy one of those squid surge protectors, but the point was that I would be happier if they just came that way.

u/hostnik · 2 pointsr/synthesizers
u/Pocok5 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You mean like this one? Probably better to a buy professionally made one in the case of high energy mains wiring like this. That said, always respect the maximum current draw of both the house wiring and the power strip - or you'll have a well cooked small apartment.

u/Nhord · 2 pointsr/ccna

I bought one of these a couple of months ago and it works great.

u/jacle2210 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

And since we have power interuptions more than we would like, I purchased one of these power bars so that we can individually control each piece of equipment without a lot of crawling around, etc.

u/clarkvstewart · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Another option I just set up is a Quirky Power Strip that works with the wink ecosystem.

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius

It's a power strip that has four outlets on it, two of which can be controlled by Alexa and the wink hub or wink app. I set this up a couple days ago. For my living room I have four lamps and the Christmas tree on two separate quirky strips. (I used an outlet adapter to split one of the lamps and the tree to make it all fit. I.e. lamp and tree are one smart outlet)

You can individually label the plugs and therefore say "Alexa turn off lamp 1", and only that light will shut off. They are also grouped so I can say "Alexa, turn on the living room lights" and everything lights up. I have the same setup in my bedroom on a single strip that controls three lights and a hair straightener that my life always forgets to turn off. Beauty of that is when we're on our way to town and she starts the inevitable worrying about it I can open the wink app and see if it's indeed off or on and react accordingly.

Side bonus, if I say "Alexa, turn off the lights" without specifying which lights she will kill or turn on every single light connected to those strips no matter what room they're in. Living Room and bed room both go dark at once. Convenient lights out function.

These strips work really well and are the cheapest option I've found so far. For the price of one Wemo or TP link I get double the outlets, quadruple if you count dumb outlets you can't voice control.

u/Bennanator · 2 pointsr/Hue

Another option would be to add an Amazon Echo/Dot to your set up. It would allow you to add and control a smart plug, and be able to control your Hue system as well (Although, the plug would still not be accessible from the Hue app). In my opinion, the best bang for your buck smart plug that works with the Echo is the Quirky Pivot Power Genius. It is a little finicky to set up, once set up though it works pretty flawlessly in my experience. We have had ours set up for about a year now and have had to reset it once that I can recall.

u/BootsC5 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

They can be useful to help lower your overall energy usage/bill, but a combination of devices will get you the most.

I use this to monitor the whole house, compare consumption over time, estimate my next bill.

Now lets get dirty and figure out how much is being pulled from each outlet. Something simple and portable... get this.

Next consider what appliances/devices must be on 24/7.... router, sure. Phone charger... probably not. TV, amplifier, room echo... then try this can you can set powering devices to schedules

u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Yup, this. If you need more granular control over outlets there are various z-wave power strips you can get:

u/RedRamen · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Is that 206 the only filter? I would definitely suggesting upgrading!

Also consider getting one of these. Definitely awesome for doing maintenance.

u/cdawwgg43 · 2 pointsr/homelab

The rocker panel runs to a UPS and then each server has it's own UPS. The switches, ONT for my fiber, modem, etc don't have power switches/buttons and don't draw too much so it's really easy to just turn them off and turn them back on right there instead of having to unplug them. It just turns the socket off. Each switch corresponds to an outlet on the back. It's the pinnacle of laziness and convenience. It's also available on Amazon

u/aasteveo · 2 pointsr/advancedaudio

An outlet switcher for your pieces of gear you're constantly climbing behind a desk to turn on and off. Always hate having to give my speakers a reach-around to turn them off and on. Why do speaker designers never put the power button on the front??

u/Spudlab564 · 2 pointsr/homelab

like this? Made an assumption that you where in the US, so amazon .com but sure you can get these elsewhere, I have seen them in the UK before

u/crazy_goat · 2 pointsr/hometheater

It says protected right on the product - so it must be good!

(But seriously - at least get an APC Surgearrest)

u/tigerfishbites · 2 pointsr/audio

Thank you again! The power strip is a:

Not super cheap, but not a proper UPS either.

I'll read through the article in depth and give it a shot.

u/snugglefrump · 2 pointsr/battlestations

You probably want to get one large power strip rather than two, I reccommend APC brand, which you can get on Amazon.

Since your desk looks wooden you might need to flip it over and install a metal bar or two on the underside so that you can velcro or ziptie everything there. What I did was I actually mounted the powerstrip onto the wall behind the monitors so that it was hidden there, but easy access.

As for the colored lamps (all very cool, btw) you can make any lamp cordless so long as you have a soldering iron (pretty simple to operate and pretty affordable as well).

Hope this helps you out!

u/bajungadustin · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...

But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.

So I got

Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97

JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55

Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21

Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24

SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25

10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4

Still have 8 dollars left over haha.

u/manofthewild07 · 1 pointr/homeowners

Belkin isn't particularly well known for paying that warranty...

I would be wary of $15 surge protector that comes with a $300k warranty.

This is a much more reliable product and company.

u/crackills · 1 pointr/hometheater

As mentioned they don't effect quality but do protect from surges.

I recommend a Tripp lite Isobar.

u/Rogue3StandingBy · 1 pointr/houston

That's a great question actually. Here's a good example.

Here's a typical home 'surge protector', but they are only rated for 200 joules.

The thing to understand is that surge protectors can protect via several different methods, but the most common is for it to essentially fry the internal protection. You have to think of the rating kind of like the health meter in a video game. If you have a 1,000 joule surge protector, its probably wasted after ten hits of 100 joules.

If you want something that will protect expensive stuff from lightning, you're looking for something with a rating in the multiple thousands of joules. Like here's an example that's rated for 3,330.

Of course, there's more to it if you want to read about amp ratings and such, but that's the quick rundown.

This is why everyone's home router or printer seems to die every time a lightning storm comes around. Because they are plugged into a surge protector that likely had a very low rating, and its been in use for years and years.

/source: Am an IT guy with a computer science degree who routinely has to deal with server rooms and networking equipment that has to be protected.

u/Inneyeseakay · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have the same problem... I just got a surge protector with a flat plug to move the outlets to the side of my nightstand.

u/Chucklz · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I would venture the noise depending ds on how much current is being drawn from the supply. The wifi probably draws one or two orders of magnitude more current than the mfj bulb.

About the outlets- if you can't easily add more, try a tripp-lite isobar surge protector/ powerstrip. They include rfi filters, so great for the shack.

u/Silent_Gamerz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey TBone, before I respond to what you wrote, I just wanted to let you know how much I've appreciated your ongoing support here, it's definitely recognized and has been very helpful! Also, I've spent a good 8+ hours reading about UPS+SP technology/physics since my last message. :)

> First, the concern about the load and fire risk...

Totally get it. Realistically, I'm expecting a load of 800w to 900w, which is why I raised it. The 1.5k I'm citing is a truly one-off extreme I doubt I'd achieve (involves SLI, OCing GPUs, CPU, RAM, and monitors), while also benchmark testing all of these components at the same time, doing an audio recording, and moving the desk up. I wanted to plan for this level (works out to 12.5A, btw - this room is provided 15A, per my apartment's unit's circuit breaker). Getting back to it though, if I exceed 900w, which realistically I think I will 1-3% of the time I'm using the computer, based on rough napkin math, it seems you're saying I won't have mechanical failures. That's great! Hopefully this isn't used as a set point to break the circuit however, as I'd rather not have to disconnect things to avoid power loss 1-3% of the time! That would be really frustrating. However, if the 900w rating is purely for UPS, then it's a non-issue and I don't mind losing those few seconds of power supply if I have an outage just then. Do you know which it is?



> Next, how do know know what surge suppression amount is enough and concerns about lightning prone area...

Terrific analogy, really helped get me going and reading tons more to understand. So, I see there are home SPs at 3K joules that can be bought, but from what I can tell, I don't think I can install them directly to my apartment unit's circuit breaker. Furthermore, everything I'm reading is saying neither this or outlet-SPs are capable of withstanding nearby lightning strikes, it's really just for far-away ones (and other surges). That home-based SPs are really intended more for outside surges (that's my major concern), while outlet-based SPs do that (to a lesser extent), but also protect for in-home surges (e.g. a motor kicking-off on a fridge or A/C). The latter being a lesser concern for me probably, as I don't perceive any symptoms of that being an issue (i.e. no flickering lights when appliances get plugged in or kicked-on).

The product you mentioned doesn't indicate clamping or response times, which seem important - these were the sort of metrics I was wondering about if SPs had, and with reading, I see they are accounted for, just not with this product! Not sure where you'd look to get that info, since manufacturer doesn't provide? (seems like a bad sign) Btw, this is the SP I was considering prior to our discussion (, which is 3k joules, 140 clamp (unnecessarily low, since I'm not running labratory precise equipment and the "safe zone" is purportedly 330v for a 120v railed for most appliances, I wouldn't want to go too far below 300v [othewise it'll just lead to the MOVs "burning out" sooner), but also unknown response time. Sadly, it's not a UPS, and as you say, daisy-chaining it with one probably voids warranty and is a risk to renter's insurance!

Regarding SPs not being useful once the protection dies out, I had no idea! I did dig into this a lot more though and, at least with MOV based surge suppression, I think you can salvage them. Many retailers sell them in bulk for cheaper (e.g. Seems to me it should be a straight-forward DIY to replace them. An indicator light to know when they have failed would be preferred over setting an arbitrary date on a calendar to do so, however. I'm reading some indicator lights may be misleading though? And of course, we'd have to make a point of periodically checking them (kind of like tire pressure for cars - I'd rather check those regularly to discover if I have a leak, rather than arbitrarily replacing my tires every few years).
Regarding SP technology, there appears to be three main ones. The MOVs and "other" gas-chambered approaches, both of which are rated in joules. The third doesn't have joules rating though and apparently can last virtually indefinitely, as it never "burns out". Take a look here; I'm curious what you'll think (sadly, they don't have any UPS options, which brings up the below discussion on daisy-chaining): It appears to be 175 clamp, "unlimited" joules, and similarly unknown response time. It costs $290, btw.



> What about Daisy chaining surge suppression?

Makes perfect sense. And that's really frustrating. As I've gotten to know more, I feel confident in daisy chaining safely and understanding the associated risks, but this loss of insurance protection is not worth it, as my renter's agreement would cover the cost of my equipment. As for the warranty-voiding, that too would be frustrating, although I'm reading most people never manage to get them to make good on the claims (even with meticulous receipts). As mentioned earlier, sadly, I don't think I can get a SP for my whole apartment unit...correct me if you think otherwise, but it seems this is a touch elaborate. Of course, you don't see my unit, so that might be too hard to respond to meaningfully, in which case, no worries.



As an aside to all of the above, I've been reading evaluations of coaxial/ethernet SPs have shown not to be beneficial during surges. Seems it may not be as greater as one would think. :(

u/vulkare · 1 pointr/EtherMining

UPS is just not worth it for mining, because its going to be VERY expensive to handle all those watts, and will only give you 10+ minutes of extra mining if the power goes out. Best just to put it on a inexpensive surge protector and have the means to restart it when needed. I recommend this one:
It's low cost, and heavy duty. And it plugs straight into the outlet so you have no extra power cord to worry weather or not it can handle the watts ( some cheap surge protector strips might have inadequate gauge of wire for the high wattage )

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/buildapc

similar to a surge protector in appearance, you stick it inbetween the wall socket and the thing you want to power. Has capacitors and inductors inside that reduce the amount of high frequency noise that passes through

u/drewlitogot · 1 pointr/techsupport

Pop one of these in the wall


Then, try to match the the amount of power that the computer would draw, a donor computer would be great for this, ask around and promise that the data will be wiped (use DBAN for this) the promise of assured data destruction makes businesses happy and open to giving you old equipment... Any way try to blow the fuse

u/MortaLPortaL · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This would be essential for a custom or regular sized desktop for wireless internet in dorms or places where you have no Ethernet access.

This is also essential. It's an amazing surge protector for the price to keep your electronics safe.

u/vinchbr · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the lengthy response.
The circuit the fridge is on has a gfci within the system but I don't know if the fridge bypasses it.
I will look at it tomorrow.
Would an ac line filter (something like this Tripp Lite Isobar 2 Outlet Surge Protector/Suppressor, Wall Mount Direct Plug-in, & $10K INSURANCE (ULTRABLOK) show that the ac supply is not the problem?

u/doubleme · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yeah, I'm gonna see if I get any interference by plugging it into a different surge protector. I did find one like you were talking about. I'll report back if switching surge protectors fixes things.

u/bugeats · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I've had great success with a Tripp Lite Isobar 2 along with a mega long power strip. It's essentially a 1:1 transformer for galvanic isolation, along with a fuse. Bonus $10k insurance for any gear damaged by a power surge for peace of mind.

Make sure all your gear is on the same circuit to avoid hum and noise problems. This is where the mega long power strip comes in.

u/flyingghost · 1 pointr/headphones

I got a 3.5mm noise isolator that solves the loud noise when connected to my DAC. I also got a surge protector/supressor from amazon but that doesn't seem to solve the buzzing problem. What should I be looking for in order to get rid of the buzz? Thanks.

u/Elnrik · 1 pointr/ZReviews

If I were to trouble shoot this, I'd start at the wall and work my way to the speakers.

  1. Get a surge suppressor that has emi filtering to kill noise from dirty AC. Can be had cheaply from TrippLite or APC. ( or APC P62 type things)
  2. Check for "dirty" power cables. eg, Broken or kinked cables / improperly plugged in / cables running past transformers, motors or power bricks, etc.
  3. PC internals - clean dust and dirt on PCBs or motherboard, fan or power wires don't run near sound card / video card, all motherboard power connections are secure.
  4. USB connections - No dirty cables: eg, cables not running past power bricks or motors, no kinks or breaks, securely plugged in, etc. Try using different cables in the audio chain.

    ... rinse and repeat through your audio chain. Something in the chain is feeding you that noise, and unless it is a component you can't check (the internals of your dac or video/sound card) you can often find it by being methodical in trying to eliminate it.

    Hope that helps?
u/bugalou · 1 pointr/DIY

Might I suggest adding a surge protector inside your mirror to protect your Pi and Monitor from basic surges? Something like this:

Or do the splitting with a 2 way box like this (It also will take more of a hit than the previous one):

I notice your weather was Philly (South Jersey here!) so thunderstorms may not be the biggest concern, but I think it would be worth adding.

u/Dondervuist · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/electrical

You can use one of these for the washing machine 115V.

And as others have said, the 240 for the dryer should go in the breaker box. If you have spare breaker positions, you can get one that simply plugs in, and 1 wire to attach to ground.

u/Aytrydez · 1 pointr/homelab

Along with this, if you're willing to spend a little bit of money you could consider getting a basic rack mount PDU like Tripplite PDU which might allow you to consolidate all the power closer to the source and let you route/bundle it a bit cleaner - instead of having all the wires reaching back to the bottom of the rack.

u/OSUTechie · 1 pointr/techsupport

What you want is a Power Distribution Unit or PDU. They come in all sizes from a hand full of sockets to a lot of sockets. Something like this Tripp-Lite will work.

u/Tiernan1980 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

Is this brand reliable? I know that Furman is the standard, but for what I need, it’s out of my price range to get two of them (or more).

Tripp Lite Rackmount Network-Grade PDU Power Strip, 12 Right Angle Outlets Wide-Spaced, 15A, 15ft Cord w/ 5-15P Plug (RS1215-RA)

u/jjbbllkk · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I have like, 5 of there. If you need to plug into a power strip, these are the way to go. Otherwise, use a Furman or a rackmount power thing. These are cheap and useful :

u/TillyFace89 · 1 pointr/homelab

New Tripp Lite Rackmount Network-Grade PDU Power Strip, 12 Right Angle Outlets Wide-Spaced, 15A, 15ft Cord w/ 5-15P Plug (RS1215-RA) - Price: $45.96 -

u/Drathus · 1 pointr/homelab

For what kind of outlet/amperage?

I've got two of these and they work great, but if you can use a 30A one you could find some much better deals on eBay for used enterprise ones.

u/hurleyef · 1 pointr/homelab

Thanks, but I already ordered one off of amazon.

this one:

u/muppet213 · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm using this one.

I'm certainly no electrician but I do try to google with just a little more effort when it's electric. It's been a while since I brought everything down so I'm really not that comfortable only assuming that I'm hovering around 7.5A. If I was constantly sitting just below 10A I don't think I would be very comfortable with it, given there are at least 4 other outlets sharing the breaker. Someone else would probably have a much better answer than me if you want more info about a safe power draw. As for the PDU I bought... I was happy but after looking at the link again I realize that mine isn't the model with a surge protector and now I'm wondering if a break and inline fuse is enough for me now :P

u/obmasztirf · 1 pointr/hometheater

I am thinking of getting this guy after I noticed a faulty socket in my existing surge protector. I swapped the bad one out with a good one but I still want better.

Tripp Lite 10 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip Tel/Modem 8ft Cord 2395 Joules (TLP1008TEL)

u/Egleu · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Triplite makes excellent surge protectors and aren't terribly expensive. I bought 3 of these and they work well.

u/theflyersrule · 1 pointr/hometheater

Also saw this

Now I'm still having trouble understanding the benefit of the APC or Cyberpower over something like the TPLink below.

Can you also explain how these work with modern day devices and having multiple hooked up drawing power? If I have my Sub, AVR, TV, PS4, Switch, etc that like 5-6 devices all pulling energy. I assume most of these surge units just plug into a standard wall socket and and provide enough juice for all devices without causing one to shut down or function incorrectly due to lack of juice.

u/bluesam3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, there's no real reason to switch away from that PSU (cost is pretty well the only reason it isn't the standard recommendation). Surge protectors generally have multiple outputs, but they aren't equivalent: most such things do nothing much for surge protection. As for recommendations this will outright refuse to provide any non-safe electricity (so when it fails, it simply stops providing electricity, rather than providing unfiltered electricity). This doesn't have that feature (it just has an indicator light to tell you if it's protected or not), but that does mean that you wont have instant power offs once the MOVs fail.

u/HiIAMCaptainObvious · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: bitcoinguy2002


>Since I am using 2 PSU's for my 6 GPU cards, I am not able to plug in 2 TPLinks in my outlets, so I am using a power strip Tripp Power Strip!

>Right now, I have it as Outlet > Power Strip > TPLink HS110 > PSU

u/Protocol_Fenrir · 1 pointr/buildapc

Reccomendations for surge protectors? I was looking at these two (1, 2), though I am not quite sure what the different in price is for, so I was leaning towards 2, due to the ethernet protection and reduced price.

u/chancethebanker · 1 pointr/smallbusiness

what are your thoughts on a strip like this?

Edit: Also what would you recommend for a UPS?

u/siegewolf · 1 pointr/gaming

I'm sure you know that you can get something quite wonderful for that price. Also, probably figured I should link you to one.

u/BATKINSON001 · 1 pointr/techsupport

The problem is not the computer itself but the battery backup surge protector power bar thing it was plugged into.

I went out and bought a Belkin 4120 joule surge protector from the local Canada computers store (cheaper on amazon):

and have not had any issues since.

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Belkin 12 port surge protector. I have three of these (one for PC, one for entertainment center, and another at work) and I cannot recommend them enough.

The angled plug lets you squeeze it between tight spaces and the 10 foot cord will make sure you have enough length to reach wherever you need it to be. The 8 foot version is a few bucks cheaper. Both are under $30, so they won't break the bank.

u/steveosmith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The moral of the story: a good surge supressor should be part of every new build. I use this surge protector. It's great. I don't know that you can have any sort of problem with a surge in your ethernet cable, but this surge suppressor come with ethernet protection. It's such an important investment honestly. I'd rather blow a $30 surge suppressor than a $1,000 PC.

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have never liked UPS devices because the batteries go bad every few years. I would suggest a power strip that is designed for entertainment centers and antennas.

u/gorgeous_gary · 1 pointr/diyaudio

When I touch the sleeves of the RCA cables the hum gets a bit louder. It diminished when I touch the ground lug on the preamp or on the turntable, though. I have everything connected to the 8 ft version of this surge protector:

But even when I disconnect every other device (TV, xbox, dehumidifier, phone charger, receiver), it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. My turntable is set up pretty close to all of those things because my room layout kinda sucks, but if they're unplugged then I can't see where it'd be picking up much interference. But as I said, it could also be the electrical wiring in the 19th century house I live in. The surge protector has a light that indicates that the outlet it's connected to is grounded though.

Wondering if a separate ground wire with shielded RCA cables may end up going a long way.

u/sternJosh · 1 pointr/legaladvice

I don't think it was just a simple power surge. The power strips I was using weren't super cheap ones, and they do have surge protection. Here are two of the strips that died on me:

I'm pretty sure they both have warranties where the company will pay for stuff that gets damaged while plugged into them, but that's only for a normal power surge, not faulty wiring. I'm not an electrician, but I wouldn't think that a power surge could cause a wire to break, and in any event my stuff was only damaged after the third time that a power strip died. Also, just prior to the incident that damaged my computer, I was noticing lights throughout the apartment randomly dimming and flickering. I'm almost certain that it wasn't a normal power surge, at least not on the occasion where my stuff was damaged.

In any event, my main argument is the fact that the maintenance guy tested the outlets and assured me they were safe to use, when in fact there was a physically broken wire. It seems like that easily could have caused a fire or something.

u/cye604 · 1 pointr/Electricity

This is the exact surge protector used.

158V was observed with a single 60W load (verified by Logger Pro at a later time) 12V power supply on the opposite side of the plug that was measured. The power supply continued operating as normal when directly connected to the wall, with no odd variances in Vin as compared to the wall.

A second test was run un-loaded. In this test, voltage averaged ~145V over 3 minutes, ranging from 109V to 155V. Another multimeter was used on the second outlet of the same wall plate to verify voltage into the strip. It held constant at 122V +/-1V for the entire 3 minutes.

Load calculations were done on all pieces connected to the power strip, and it was found that the load used was less than the advertised maximum load.

It is also interesting to note that all devices that failed were connected to one side of the power strip. Not all devices connected to that side failed, though, so this may be a coincidence.

All of these tests were either L-N or L-G, I believe that I attempted G-N, but I have no exact information written down, so it was either 0 or at the time I felt it was non-consequential. I will go back and check this value again.

The general consensus so far has been that there is no way that the voltage could have increased from the power supply, so I instead went back and looked at all damaged components. In each of the failed items, one of two items were broken. The first was the fuse on the input voltage. Sadly, the design of the power supplies make it impossible to replace the fuses, they serve as a one-time defence against surges, hence why a surge protector would be handy. The second component was one I could not identify, it was a vertical ceramic disk with 2 wires coming out. It is connected in line to the live line coming into the device. According to the manufacturer, these can be damaged when too high of a voltage or current is attempted to be brought through (Rated for 120V +/-10V, 3A +/-.1A). In 2 devices, a fuse was blown, in 3 devices, the piece mentioned above exploded, resulting in electrical smoke, and in 1 device, both components failed, again resulting in electrical smoke.

u/xSaiyan · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/StoneColdSteveAss316 · 1 pointr/PS4

It's the Belkin surge protector linked below, I believe it is a real one that protects against surges? Even has a warranty to replace any appliance hooked up to it that fails from a power surge up to a certain limit:

u/iliketurtlz · 1 pointr/LifeProTips
u/I_Am_Jacks_Wenis · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for the feedback. Although I do have everything connected to a surge protector (this one) I will look into ensuring that it is actually functional.

u/antarcticgecko · 1 pointr/INEEEEDIT

They already make these!

u/sunchops · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I recommend making sure you have several items:

  • Hamper (foldable or collapsible is best for college students.)
  • Laundry bag (Just in case you don't want to carry your hamper to your laundry facility, or your hamper isn't carry friendly.)
  • Desk lamp (any kind should be fine, so that way if your room mate is sleeping you don't have to have the entire room lit up)
  • Power strips (you never know when you're going to need to plug something in, and you might run out of wall plugs)
  • Change jar (spare change is always useful especially when ordering food, so you can give exact change. Don't forget to tip! You can make one of these yourself for basically free minus the cost of a bottle)
  • Desk organizer (To keep your class syllabi in, as well as any returned papers. It's very easy to lose all of that stuff, and you never know if you might need it again during the semester.)
  • Flip flops/shower shoes (keep them cheap because they're only for the bathroom, chances are that bathroom will be shared by you and several others, and most likely won't be the cleanest place)
  • Healthy (ish) snack foods (whatever foods appeal to you really, but that's a start for some ideas, trust me healthy food is good, you don't want that freshman 15 to catch up to you too quick now!)
  • Alarm clock (or you can use your phone which is what I ended up doing last year, but make sure it doesn't die!)
  • Headphones (so you don't annoy your roommate with your choice of tv/music/movies/etc.) Here's three more headphones for variety, all of which are great for the price range. Klipsch, Vsonic, Sony(these Sony MDR-V6 go on sale every so often, they were literally just on sale for $54 and are absolutely fantastic for the price range)

    That's basically everything I either wish I had brought, or found very useful. Oh yeah, don't forget your cell phone, cell phone charger, laptop/desktop and appropriate cables. Also don't forget to do your laundry somewhat regularly, and that includes your sheets!

    Would you like a falafel with that?
u/cbracco · 1 pointr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu
u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use these throughout my apartment. Excellent quality and very high joule rating (4320).

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Desktop is always the better choice if you don't need portability, and even then you're better off getting a cheap laptop for portability and a desktop for gaming (the price ends up being around the same.) One outlet or five outlets, if it's in a bedroom then it's probably going to be coming off one circuit breaker anyway. Maybe don't try to run the PS4/XBox/PC and air conditioner all at the same time doing intense gaming in the middle of August. Other than that you should be okay, just buy a decent surge suppressor.

u/panthersrule1 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Do you have any recommendations? I’m upgrading my tv to a 55” 4K. I have a surge, but don’t know if it’s good enough. How many joules do you think it should protect against? I don’t know that much about surges. Here’s what I have now:

u/AligaTC · 1 pointr/offbeat

Yeah, I have a similar one (mine's a bit bigger).

u/cky2250 · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

This is what I use. I never have an issue

Belkin 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 8-Foot Power Cord, 4320 Joules (BP112230-08)

u/ElliotNess · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

Mine is similar, but the outlets swivel to allow room for stuff like OP.

u/JesusRollerBlading · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


get more than one. either a 2-3 pack of cheaper ones or one "high end" one with guarantees and articulating joints. check out this sexy beast, you'll be the envy of your roommates b/c look at it.

u/newDieTacos · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the advice!

I have one of these Belkin surge protectors:

and one of these APC Surgearrest surge protectors:

As a side note, would my electrician be okay with me running the Romex (not connected on either end?

u/mattsilv · 1 pointr/videos

I work in restaurant IT, and I can assure you that the Belkin Pivot-Plug is, above and beyond, the best surge protector.

u/kelly_kelli · 1 pointr/xboxone

Unfortunately, even though I know that I'm not supposed to, I have:

  • Xbox One X

  • Modem

  • Router

  • Phone Charger

  • Desktop

  • 2 Monitors

    In this.

    I only have two outlets and they are at opposite ends of the room. The other side has my tv, other xbox one, and cable set top box in another surge protector. My room is a rectangle, so it's narrow.

    But, very rarely do I have the desktop/monitor and xbox one/monitor on at the same time.
u/bcarlzson · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do yourself a favor and go buy a decent surge protector that will cover your stuff in case of a lightning strike or power surge. Here's one that's about $30 and includes coax and rj-45 connectors.

u/digitalyss · 1 pointr/migraine

Check this out

Put it in a desk lamp plugged into a big surge protector, switch it to red light, dim at night, and keep the fluorescent off. Voila

u/Murmur322 · 1 pointr/xboxone

This is the surge protector that I use for my tv/xbox. It has coax and an Ethernet in and out connectors in addition to the power strip outlets. I just run the coax to the modem through the power strip.

Edit: And it has the pivoting outlets. Those things are so great.

u/BrainlessBox · 1 pointr/INEEEEDIT

I like this Belkin power strip on Amazon much more than the concept. It swivels and the cord is 8 feet long! It's awesome, I have four at my house.

u/LoLDrifter · 1 pointr/burstcoinmining

Thank you for that link, much cheaper then what I was seeing on amazon. Might need to pick up 2 of these. I had bought this to use, but what is strange, 4 of the outlets on one side do not give any power. I thought shit is that the limit or is this thing broken. I might have to return it and look for something else.

u/Ruinf20 · 1 pointr/gaming

Every company makes ther power adapter to try and be the best, by doing that there all different. What you need it a power strip that can use any and all of them this is what I use in my game room and all through my house, it saves your life.

u/Schemawound · 1 pointr/synthesizers

This is my power strip of choice. 12 outlets and a number of them can pivot to get around wall warts.

u/Dracius · 1 pointr/pics

So you're suggesting I replace my eight outlet surge protector with eight 1' long extensions? Okay smart guy, just where am I going to plug those eight extensions into?

For the eight extensions alone it'd cost $22 and you'd still have to get a surge protector to go with them. Then compare that to the $20.88 it'd cost to just get the Belkin. Then there's the clutter issue because of all the extra cables you'd be adding to the mix. The choice is pretty damn obvious.

Extensions don't replace a surge protector/power strip. They're good for those one-off scenarios where you have a single bulky adapter you need to plug in to a pre-existing setup, but they're not a valid alternative in a new setup.

u/DistortoiseLP · 1 pointr/Vive

Would this do? (Note: am Canadian, must use Canadian Amazon lest it take longer than the rise and fall of nations to arrive and customs comes to my house to beat me with sticks) I have no idea how to calculate from length and gauge provided there. The Hanvex cables from are not available on the .ca site unfortunately. The Belkan surge protector there is though.

u/jryanishere · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You need a smart power strip.

Then you plug your harmony hub into a red outlet or leave it plugged into a separate source, plug your TV into the Blue outlet, and plug all your switched loads into the green outlets.

Program a watch tv activity to TURN THE TV ON FIRST WITH A DELAY OF 5 SECONDS!, Very important!

Then allow it to turn on the rest of your equipment. It works very well.

Keep in mind, old av receivers require a standby current to keep their settings once their super capacitor or internal battery goes dead. This is rarely a user replaceable item, so once it dies, it dies, and the receiver forgets about settings every time power is pulled.

u/Geoff_Sanderson · 1 pointr/MAME

I mounted my motherboard and components to a 1/4" piece of MDF which was then mounted on the bottom of my cab. I attached the motherboard to the 1/4" piece of MDF with nylon spacers and pan head sheet metal screws. This allowed for air to get underneath the motherboard. I didn't bother with fiber washers or anything.

Depending on how much space you have in your cab, you might need less fans than you think.

As far as speakers go, you are better off buying cheap car speakers and wiring them to an amp. This allows you more flexibility with mounting. If you do want to use the 2.1 speaker system you have, you can use a smart power strip to power everything on, like this:

And yes ipac2 is good for 2 player setup. You can just wire up an arcade button to turn on/off your computer.

u/JasonInNJ · 1 pointr/Monitors

and my questions about the computer? I'm assuming USB doesn't turn off when it is in standby.

a master/slave power strip could work if the display power draw changes when you start using the PC again.

u/CalvinsQuest · 1 pointr/cade

I don't use a raspberry pi, but this is the strip I use for my PC based MAME machine:

u/Chunk_Games · 1 pointr/cade

What you want is a smart power strip. Shut it down properly and power everything down with the single press of a button.

u/DonFrio · 1 pointr/hometheater

Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1

u/Synthesis2k2 · 1 pointr/MAME

I used to have a cab set up that way. Then I got this.

It made it much easier, since getting to the regular power strip/outlet/computer power button was a pain. Now I just need to turn on the switch for the cabinet, and go. :)

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/audiophile

Some ideas:

u/lanemeyer88 · 1 pointr/Vue

My brother and his family were struggling with their new 1 tb cap with Comcast. He discovered the rest of the family wasn't always backing out of apps like Vue/Pandora/Netflix before shutting off the tv because they were expecting the hdmi cec to put the fire tvs to sleep. Either the FireTV or tv hdmi cec wasn't working correctly but he would turn on a tv later and find apps that had been running for hours while everyone was sleeping or at work/school. He added a smart power strip to every tv which shuts off power to FireTV when the tv gets turned off. It does take the FireTVs a little extra time to power up vs. waking up from sleep but it has solved his particular cap issue. I think this is the brand strip he bought:

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/hometheater

An amp (most amps) are always going to try and amplify something (even silence) which keeps it on, running and hot. I presume you don't leave the denon running 24/7 so you could just buy a "green" power strip that turns other equipment on when a MAIN piece is turned on. IE the Denon receiver.

u/markseesred · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I always bring a 3 outlet with 2 usb ports with me when I travel.

Smiles everywhere.

u/crmaki · 1 pointr/gadgets

Looks like Amazon has a better price.

u/icanseestars · 1 pointr/gadgets

I've looked at this one:

Interesting but the reviews say it lacks power to charge 2 USB devices at once.

And I've looked at this one:

Reviews seem to indicate the possibility of a fire if you're trying to charge more than one device and it lacks the 110v power plugs.

u/kickstand · 1 pointr/travel

Be careful about using a splitter. The splitter itself has to be 220-compatible.

For example, I have this Belkin travel power splitter but it cannot be used outside North America.

EDIT: What I have is a bunch of these travel adpaters. They are not particularly small, but they are cheap. They will work with any device that is 120/220 compatible, like most chargers for electronics (but probably not your alarm clock radio).

u/winnar72 · 1 pointr/shutupandtakemymoney
u/redsnappa · 1 pointr/geek

Alternatively, this would do the trick too

u/jmnugent · 1 pointr/applehelp

> "if there was some lesser-known secret I hadn't heard of or some crazy trick to fix it or something."


Speaking as someone who's worked in the IT industry for 20+ years... the "secret" really is simple (for pretty much all electronic devices)

1.) Make sure you have good, clean, reliable power (IE = use a surge-protector or battery backup). Even a single time of plugging your power-cord into a "dirty" outlet can damage it. You may consider a small/portable surge protector such as this Belkin one.

2.) Treat your cables gently. Never pull/yank on them. Always pull using the base of the plug (never pull on the cable itself).

Also.. never fold/tightly wrap cables. Any extreme bending (especially at critical junction points, like where the cables meets the square/brick) can results in shorts or internal wire breakage.

u/adelope · 1 pointr/vita

The Vita charger is a standard USB charger, you can buy it for like $2, but I suggest you upgrade to a better charger like this.

The problem is the USB cable which is proprietary and isn't necessary compatible with every charger, there is a small pin on the cable, so you may need to scratch it a little bit. The cable itself is not cheap either. The original cable goes for $10. You can get OEM cable for $2 example. IMO, since you are only going to use the cable for charging, don't overpay.

u/Vole182 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

My wife and I travel international a couple times a year. Normally England, Australia or Japan.

We pack an HDMI cable, Belkin power strip, and power adapters.
HDMI cable
Power Adapters
And this power bar or strip

It pretty much covers all of our bases.

u/kanji_sasahara · 1 pointr/AskReddit

You don't need paperclips or thumbtacks, you can probably find it at printing centers around campus. A portable surge protector is probably a good idea
Better than an extension cable. Do you already have a smartphone? Since that will replace an alarm clock.

u/Beaver-Believer · 1 pointr/electronics

I recently bought two of these for each side of the bedroom beside the bed:

They are awesome.

u/the_dread · 1 pointr/travel

For packing in general, this thread on Flyertalk is great.

I took 3, as the eBags packing cubes come in 3. The biggest one held all of my clothes. The medium one has cords, chargers, adapters, etc. The small one has a pair of shoes. I don't have too much stuff, so if your stuff can't fit in all the cubes (more or less), just fiddle with it. Some people use one for dirty clothes. I just let my dirty clothes float around my bag and use it for padding and to take up irregular space.

Also, I forgot to include this in my other posts: Get an adapter for the EU sockets. If you charge lots of things (e.g. cellphone, laptop, iPad, traveling partner's stuff), you'll want a travel extension socket thing. I have this one and I love it.

u/jlian · 1 pointr/answers

Thanks for the answer. I live in Canada and ended up finding this

However I ended up getting a new (used, cheap) receiver with a switched AC outlet in the back that allowed me to accomplish this setup. The old receiver is a bit busted anyway.

u/bunnyfrog · 1 pointr/htpc

Thanks for all the replies, you all were a lot of help in deciding to move forward with this project. From brainstorming and reading replies, I had another question (and found a possible solution).

As far as work load/power consumption goes, would a HTPC running as a media server + having the ability with WMC to use a Cable Card to schedule/record be able to “sleep” when there is nothing recording, scheduled, or being used by a client to pull content, or is it always on?

For instance would WMC know to “wake up” the system when there is a scheduled recording?

Or if I'm watching a 2 hour movie on a Roku box and it ends, will the HTPC/server know that it doesn't need to work to serve? Is this where the NAS comes in? With the NAS can I record straight to it with WMC and use it as the live buffer, or would I have to install a fairly large hard drive in the HTPC with Cable Card?

From reading around, I think this would solve my Roku dilemma if the Plex app doesn't have a sleep timer. If anything I'd still use it so I wouldn't have to program two timers. -

Thanks again guys, you all rock!

u/chuccck · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

The tv has usb port but it says service, not a feature of viewing anything off a flash drive, so i am unsure of the power output. I didnt think you could code the pi to "shutdown", but that would mean messing the code of rasplex i believe.

I think I found a simpler solution: smart power strips.

this one has one control plug i plug the tv into and it should turn off the other "control" devices once the tv is off. That should be the simplest solution that would cut the power to the pi once the tv is turned off, and turn on the power to the plug once the tv is turned on.

I am new to rasplex and the pi in general, there is no shutdown sequence like in windows correct? Its just unplug to turn off no matter what its doing?

u/shaolinpunks · 1 pointr/Roku

You can buy a "smart" power strip like this

so when the TV turns off it'll turn off everything else plugged into the strip.

u/the14thgod · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this power strip and the power situation is pretty stable but it's an apartment complex. Every once in a great while a surge but that's maybe a few times a year.
My computer does not reach the point of lighting up beyond the little power button on the mother board having light. I don't have the 'dongle diddly bopper thingamajig' you speak of. I don't recall if it every shut down without a BSOD warning (don't remember the specific warning either).
Is there another way I could test the power supply? Slightly paranoid now and maybe I should keep the new PSU just in case. Wondering if I just need to go back to MicroCenter and get yet another mobo but I'm starting to burn money left & right here :/

u/audibleBLiNK · 1 pointr/hometheater

How is your DAC powered?

And is your Belkin power bar one of the smart ones?

Those have a trigger port that shut off the whole power strip when the device hooked up to the trigger port is shut off.

u/DyceFreak · 1 pointr/electrical

Sounds like he needs a power conditioner instead of a simple surge protector. Any motor running on AC is going to cause spikes on the circuit.

u/rube203 · 1 pointr/pics


Just like with most products you can find one that splits it or one that is a surge protector. They make both as people have different needs.

u/mrCloggy · 1 pointr/environment

Small wind:
Ask your dad to give a practical example on how to apply Betz's Law to your own backyard.
(And don't forget to 'innocently' ask how he is so sure the windspeed is as he claims it is).

Small solar:
PVwatts gives the kWh-numbers for your location.
'Soft costs' like permits and installation, needed for 'grid-tied', make it very expensive, you could look into a small-ish DIY 'off-the-grid' system with a battery to power only the bicycle-shed (and the freezer inside).
(You and your family do ride a bike for <5 mile trips, right?).

Energy efficiency is the biggest winner for the lowest dollar amount.
Install triple paned windows, and half a meter of insulation in every wall, ceiling and floor.
If you have mechanical ventilation, make sure it has a heat-exchanger (and CO2-sensor for lowest safe level).

Get a solar hot water panel for your shower etc, and if you have the space available, a shower drain recovery system.
For more solar fun: Build it Solar.

Electric vehicle (E-car, E-moped or E-bike), google-fu the fuel-type of power generators for your area/state. Even if it is coal, the efficiency is likely to be better than your own internal combustion engine, and the dirty exhaust fumes are not released in the middle of a bunch of people in town/campus.

Get a Kill-a-Watt, and measure all electrical appliances, in 'on', 'standby' and 'off'.
If there are vampire loads, connect them to a 'switched' power-bar.

u/Thomcat316 · 1 pointr/electricians

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

u/ebdbbb · 1 pointr/DIY

Tripp Lite makes a power strip with individual outlet controls if you don't want to do any wiring.

Edit: Not sure if it has the amperage you need.

u/whitcwa · 1 pointr/DIY

That would work, but it needs to be done safely. A power strip with individual switches is safer.

u/Guy_Fieris_Hair · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I have one of these.

They apparently have some that can be controlled via wifi

u/MapleStoryPSN · 1 pointr/RetroPie

If you're in the market for a new surge protector, then I'd HIGHLY recommend this for powering down your Pi if the surge protector isn't too out of the way:

Great quality and after you shut down, just simply flick the switch to power it off and flick it on when you want to play it again. It's also great for phone chargers and the like.

u/KARMA_P0LICE · 1 pointr/computers
u/lampshade9909 · 1 pointr/Steam

So it's possible. It's not an out of the box thing though. There's a Pivot Power Genius that you can control with Stringify to power things from a flow, but you'd still need to effectively push the power button on your computer. Pivot Power works best for things that, once you plug the in they're on like a coffee maker.

I think what you'd really want is to use a rasberry pi that's running all the time with an HTTP listener (that maker would trigger) that would execute a WOL (wake-on-lan) command to their computer. It's typically an option in your BIOS... you send the WOL "magic packet" to the computer's MAC address. See also this resource

u/ShaneMANJ · 1 pointr/googlehome

Two smart outlets.. 25 dollars. Works with IFTTT. Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa

u/FitzTheBastard · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I don't, but if you're interested in a good deal, this seems like a better one.

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa

u/bachelorpartydude · 1 pointr/amazonecho

You guys are nuts spending so much money, wtf. OP, here you go:

u/digga3232 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Super cheap device

(discontinued, but still work) I have 2 (total of 4 smart 'outlets') and they are cheaper now then when I bought them a year ago or so.

u/Vesha · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I use smart things and a couple Aeon labs smart strips for my aquarium lighting and control. I also use a couple of fans that come on randomly in different orders. The idea is changing water currents will blow waste through the filters.

u/thrash99er · 1 pointr/homeautomation


This is a good one, if work with SmartThings and can set up each smart plug as a different device. I use a few of these.

u/brenthaag · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets

u/PinBot1138 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This is the one that I have from them, which I assume has been deprecated in favor of the one that you’ve linked:

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets

Thankfully, someone figured it all out for SmartThings (custom device handler) and it works GREAT, with 4 of the 6 sockets controllable and monitored, so I can see if I forgot to turn the den TV off, for example.

u/sahala · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have this one and it works well.

Zwave. Needs a hub or controller.

u/Plodding_Mediocrity · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I put in a dedicated GFCI by my rack with one of the outlets used for a power rack strip (like this which is for filters, heaters, etc. The other outlet is for a generic Chinese-made WiFi enabled power strip so I can individually program light times. Good setup and not too expensive (compared to professional equipment).

u/Kyvalmaezar · 1 pointr/homelab

Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.

u/viners · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Would this still be an issue if I were only plugging in EVGA computer PSUs? Those come with overcurrent protection I believe and won't pull more than what they're rated at. If not, would any of these work?



Or even a cheap thing like this?


Thank you!

u/dak01 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

I have this switch that I use but I've been afraid to just cut the power from the BVM without using the power button first. Are you sure this is ok?

u/Nick_W1 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use this ADJ switched pdu which works well (and I have labeled the switches).

I also have the Pyle switched PDU, but took it out because is is not well constructed. Specifically the rack mount ears (and faceplate) are plastic, with a strange hollow construction. This means as you tighten the rack screws to hold the weight, the ears crush down and crack. It’s bizarre, the body is metal, but the ears are hollow plastic. No idea what genius came up with this, but it doesn’t work.

You might be able to make it work by putting washers in the hollow, but by the time I figured this out, the ears were toast.

I also have one of These and one of These , both Cyberpower, which work well.

This is my Ubiquiti Network Rack , powered by a Cyberpower UPS.

u/NeedMorePowah · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this: APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 2880 Joules, SurgeArrest Home/Office (P11U2)

u/urboostedaf · 1 pointr/SBU
do you know if they'll let me bring this?

Also, do you know if they allow me to just bring two regular surge protectors? (I know these are fine to bring, i just dont know about the one i linked.)
I know you can't plug one into the other, but can I plug two separate ones on the wall outlet since there's two outlets?

u/ShawnHatesyou · 1 pointr/CableManagement

I've decided to use this along with 2 of these

I also have an electrician coming to see about adding another wall outlet.

u/Enickols12 · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

I'd suggest an APC battery backup as a surge suppressor. In my experience the Cyberpower battery backups are not great.

The thing to keep in mind is that the VA rating is not how many watts the battery backup can supply. I have a 1300VA unit for my desktop on my monitor and it can supply a max of ~800 watts. If you put your system specs into PCPartPicker you can get a rough idea of what you will need.

If you want to spend less and don't have a lot of power fluctuations /brown outs in your area you could get this APC surge protector.

u/Parasol747 · 1 pointr/AskElectricians

fridge is rated at .85 amps at 115 volts, and this is the surge protector. My pc is actually just running old graphics cards that suck up a lot of power plus an overclocked cpu. i just launched a game and i was using 600 watts and i was only at 70% gpu usage and 60% cpu usage.


exactly what i have connected to the strip is my speakers 208mA, my dac and amp at 500mA, 8 watts; and 1500mA, 21 watts respectively, the fridge mentioned above, a phone charger (max 5V, 2 Amps), very small ethernet splitter with no label on it, and a 12 volt 3 amp usb hub. i was mistaken earlier, my monitors are actually connected to my ups not the strip. and at full load with all my monitors on, pc running at full speed, it will pull anywhere from 600 to 700 watts with occasionally around 850 if i also have my 3d printer connected to it.

u/eAArukdTJ5YT · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I actually have all Ubiquiti hardware connected to an APC Surge Protector. The CloudKey G1 is being powered by Ubiquiti US-8-60W switch. No battery backups. I've experienced power outages this past winter, but no database corruption to my knowledge. I've never had to rebuild the controller, database, etc. Just been having the weird "missing microSD card" error completely randomly.

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 1 pointr/talesfromtechsupport

If you dont care about having the battery backup option, then I'd recommend this

I works well, I dont need an expensive battery backup for the xbox I own just want to protect it from strikes and bad weather.

If you need a UPS with a battery backup builtin then I linked one in my earlier replies you can still clickity click :D

u/Wewius · 1 pointr/smarthome

I think I found it. But unfortunately the outlets aren't the ones I need. Otherwise, though, it's exactly what I want. Shame.

u/DiYRDWC · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Mechanicals are great, but my next timer is gonna be one of these. Seen a few other growers use them and they seem slick.

u/tv_walkman · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I use one of these. It's internet-connected, so you can set on/off times on an app and you can control all 4 outlets independently.

u/doc_willis · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

I am not sure you can control a single usb port that way.

Possible work around:

not exactly what you are looking for, but I do have a Power Strip that has Standard power connections, and 4 usb power ports, and each is controllable individually via Alexa, or the proper app.

I use it to power on my 3D printer and Raspberry Pi - on demand.

I am just not sure how i could have the main computer control the thing. Right now i just use alexa, and IFTTT on my phone.

u/GTAsian · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Ah, didn't realize that zigbee didn't integrate directly with HA. I'm using these for my outlet needs. Wifi network sees it as one device so it's light on the network. I'm able to control each plug individually but the USB outlets are all or nothing. I haven't done so yet, but the plan is to reflash them with custom firmware. From what I heard, it's pretty easy.

u/Bogus_83 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Makes sense. I used the smart plugs for nightlights and such throughout the house.

I think this is the power strip.,Remote-Compatible/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=smart+power+strip&qid=1556247426&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I have my lights, circulation pump, and air pump on a timer. Works great.

u/ender32708 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Smart Power Strip WiFi Power Bar 5ft  Extension Cord Compatible with Alexa,Echo,Google Home and IFTTT, TECKIN Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and Smart AC Plugs for Multi Outlets

u/DonutTread · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Use 1 timer and a power strip or do like I did and get a smart power strip so you can program each outlet for whatever you want.

Something like this

u/liamkr · 0 pointsr/INEEEEDIT

A good product to avoid outlet clutter and prevent one large plug from covering two slots.


This is a concept design from Yanko design but is actually a concept that is very much real with similar products

Concept from Yanko Design: here

Similiar products available for purchase:

Aliexpress: here

Amazon: here

Amazon 2: here

Amazon 3: here

These are all slightly different products but seek to accomplish the same goal

u/Decyde · 0 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.

I got mine for $25 and this thing is the best surge protector you can get for stuff behind your entertainment system.

u/sterncapital718 · 0 pointsr/electrical

You can buy adapters that can be a temporary solution till you move back to your place.

These are 3 prong to 2 prong outlet adapters. To install them you take off the center screw on the outlet without taking off the face plate. Next plugin the adapter and a screw the small tab on them to the faceplate with the screw that was removed. If you have a good surge protector it should have an indicator light that tells you if you have a ground connection from the outlet with the adapter. Looks like this

If you dont feel comfortable doing this turn off the power before hand and make sure its off by using a volt meter or a small appliance.

u/TheAceMan · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

I use one of these:

Smart Strip SCG-3M Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet

u/monstehr · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

Belkin Mini Surge Protector/Dual USB Charger.

Especially useful for coffeeshops and airports where there are few plugs but everyone wants to charge up.

u/rinnip · 0 pointsr/electricians

IANAE, but I use these when I need individual switches. The quality is worth the price IMO.

Edit: Those switches you reference are 12v switches, and wouldn't last long with a "standard incandescent light socket".

u/AE_Rep · 0 pointsr/buildapcsales

The only real source is opening these up and knowing what you're looking at, which is the main reason companies take advantage of the "surge protector" marketing. It has no standards, so anyone can say that for anything. Here is an example of APC marketing a piece of plastic with a capacitors and wiring as a "surge protector" when it protects from very little.


The price is the tell for general consumers, and lack of certain specifications is the tell for enthusiasts and electrical engineers.


Lastly, that $250k insurance on that $30 piece is laughable, they will give you the runaround until you give up. There's no way they would ever pay that much for something connected to a $30 power strip.

u/eddyshinoda · -1 pointsr/hometheater

Will this help? For my country belkin give us insurance if damaged due to lightning.

u/EvilGreenDevil · -1 pointsr/cade

Why not use a PC?

To your question: a smart strip will work. Something like this