Best power supplies for labs according to redditors
We found 86 Reddit comments discussing the best power supplies for labs. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 86 Reddit comments discussing the best power supplies for labs. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Bench power supply is one of the best purchases I've ever made since getting into this hobby.
I have this one. Goes to 120v and if you look/wait you can get it for about $120 shipped.
TekPower TP12001X 120V DC Variable Switching Power Supply Output 0-120V @1A, Digital Display with Back Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PX90PIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rxGmDbFCQ4B96
After a lot of looking around I picked up a Korad KA3005D for ~$120USD and free shipping.
Will supply up to 5A at 30VDC; reviews all say it regulates the power well, doesn't have any crazy overshoot when turning off/on, little voltage ripple; comes with leads; and has a separate output on/off toggle so you don't need to disconnect the leads to adjust power or anything; over-current protection; digital display so you can enter your values with precision.
Probably a reason it's one of half a dozen models listed as recommended on the wiki.
A (slow-blow) fuse or breaker would be ideal, as they are designed to handle exactly this situation. Your local hardware store probably has an assortment of fuses, and a few fuse holders.
Another option is a PTC. These are basically resistors whose resistance varies massively with temperature. They start out with almost no resistance, but if the current going through them gets too high, they get hot, and their resistance goes up drastically. So they choke down the current flow to a level that will hopefully not harm anything too badly. Disconnect the power, let them cool off, and they go back to being almost no resistance. Essentially it's like a miniature thermal breaker. These are going to be much harder for an amateur to find, though. It's not the kind of thing the local hardware store will have.
Regardless of which of the above you choose, make sure it's rated for the correct amount of current. If you need a fuse that blows at 1 amp, and you use a fuse that blows at 15 amps, then obviously it ain't gonna work right.
You talked about a 9V battery. You're probably going to be surprised how little current you can actually get out of a typical PP3 9V battery. The reason is that most of them are made of 6 series-connected alkaline cells. Each cell has internal resistance. And when you series six cells, you multiply that resistance by 6. Which by V = IR cuts the max current by 6.
Lead-acid batteries (car, motorcycle) can deliver ridiculous burst currents (100+ amps for < 1 sec), which may be what you want. But if so, be careful. You'll easily be able to make thin wire glow white-hot with those kind of currents. Also sometimes non-sealed lead-acid batteries can leak flammable hydrogen. Hydrogen + white-hot wires = bad. Finally, discharging a lead acid battery too far can ruin it.
The absolute ideal case, and also the most expensive, would be a proper bench power supply with current limiting. This would allow you to turn the voltage up and down to tweak it to exactly what you want, while having a hard current limit to avoid any burning wires. However, this option is expensive. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW8H2S/
This is the one I got, unfortunately the price has jumped a bit. Here's another one, though. Should be sufficient
A cheap liner bench power supply.
Wow that is a ludicrous price. Most of us could flatulate a better design. Based on what I see immediately in front of me I would use two of these mk2 3d printer bed plates. Put them in series. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPXA8EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O.vjybW7MW53F then I'd take my shittest power supply set it to 24V and maybe some constant current at 500mA to 1A and see how hit it gets under the aluminum. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8DJ8QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ndwjyb2N27R1A
Best part you dont need a controller cause even that silly $1000 device is only giving you a adjustment pot. Then if your wife changes her mind you can start building a 3D printer.
Go to harbor freight and treat yourself to one of those laser aim non contact thermometers too. You'll marvel at how much money you saved and how even the heat is.
There are no issues with plastic containers- I can only get melting when I try to do it on purpose.
No, these are much higher quality LEDs than found in UFOs and will give off roughly twice the light per watt.
In a five gallon bucket with foil sides and the COB eight inches from the plant, with a Bridgelux Vero 18 at about 10 watts your plants will be at about 500 uMol/m2/sec of light (35,000 lux). This is a really good level for veging.
With 20 watts on the Vero 18 you'll be saturating your plant at 1000 uMol/m2/sec (about 70,000 lux). This is perfect for flowering. You can drive the LED harder but there will be rapid decreasing gains.
If you want to know about building COB grow lights from a competent person then you should check out growmau5's YouTube page. Outside the professional arena and even in it, this person likely knows more about COB LED grow light design than anyone else.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSwmwj8ZLXObtBJmz-76rw
I often use lab power supplies as variable LED drivers. I bought two of these recently to replace some others. If you do much work with LEDs then these sort of power supplies are real time savers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
look up: Vero 18 3500K CRI 80 gen 7 (the Vero 29 costs three times as much but will be even more efficient)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-35E4000-D-73/976-1421-ND/6152431
edit- corrected "3800K" mistake
To answer your question yes you will get DC out and you can adjust the voltage with the potentiometer.
As for better options, yes and no. It'll work fine, a commercial product would probably add a lot of filtering and safety circuitry around it but for hobby stuff it'll work perfectly.
Another option if you want something more user friendly is to rectify the 24VAC and feed it into one of These. Expensive but if you're looking for a bench supply type of thing its quite good.
&#x200B;
How it works (of the top of my head anyway). The big black rectangle is a full bridge rectifier changing the AC to DC, this is smoothed by the first big cap (and normally some smaller ones) this voltage is the "chopped" up into pulses by the chip, this causes the current in the inductor to change. As an inductor resists changes it will try and keep the current constant so output voltage will be (in this case) lower depending on the frequency of the chopping. The diode prevents current flowing backwards into the input side of the circuit. The output voltage is then smoothed by the second big cap (again normally some smaller ones) then you have the output voltage. This output is controlled via feedback of the output voltage into the IC, the potentiometer controls the voltage the IC sees and thus the voltage on the output.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RNT1CD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
here's a popular one on amazon. three outputs, 30v 5A:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ISD7T6
I use this one at home. I mostly use it to drive steppers. No issues yet.
I picked up the one in the picture off of Amazon for $70. It can push up to 30V/5A so it’s been great so far for anything I’ve needed to power.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WT94S7?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It's this one. I got it early this year. It's worked great for me.
> Answer for New to electronics, where to start?
Everybody learns differently. Some people are theoretical learners, while others are physical learners who need to touch things with their hands to learn anything. And others still are some hybrid between the two. As such, it is very difficult to answer the question "where to start", because there is no one-size fits all solution.
Further complicating the issue is the issue of budget. Not just monetary investment, but time investment as well. No doubt, the best education possible is to simply go to a multi-year university and dedicated multiple years of your life to the trade, but this is more than the typical hobbyist can afford.
Assuming infinite time and money, the ideal learning environment is a lab environment surrounded by high-end, precise and accurate equipment (often costing in the thousands of dollars) with which you can measure, test, and experiment to the heart's desire. For example, accurate variable power supplies that can operate in voltage-mode or current-mode... signal generators to create square, triangle, and sine waves, and a high-end, very accurate Tektronix Oscilloscope so that you can actually see the voltages and currents as they happen. Indeed, this is what your typical lab environment inside a college would be like.
Dedicate yourself to graduate-level college subjects, and you will also get you access to very high-end material, such as scanning electron microscopes, clean-rooms, VLSI integrated circuits, FPGAs and custom PCBs to tie it all together. Mastery of these subjects, aided with state-of-the-art software for simulations will put you into the upper-echleons of world-class electrical engineering.
But learning how to use such complicated equipment is itself a learning curve that takes not only money... but time as well. There are plenty of hobby-level electronics users who make due with both simpler and cheaper equipment.
AA or 9V Batteries provide cheap sources of nearly ideal voltage sources (at least, while the batteries have juice in them). Digital Multimeters can be bought as cheaply as $20... although most people will recommend spending around $100 for a solid precise and accurate multimeter (better accuracy costs more money). Add on $50 to $100 for a breadboard and some typical components (a light bulb, a motor, resistors, capacitors, and some basic chips like a 555 timer or an Op-Amp, and wires to hook it all together), and you'll be well on your way to learning electronics.
Finally, there's the issue of subject material. There are complicated analog components, like building power-supplies, or radios... and then there are complicated digital components like logic and even computers. The two worlds require different math to understand (Discrete mathematics for Digital, Calc3 / Differential Equations for Analog).
There are also software packages to help students learn on the cheap. There are programs that are free for hobbyists, like LTSpice for simulations or Eagle for schematic drawings / PCB layout.
--------
I'm sorry for the long-winded answer, but this is a deep subject with many valid paths forward. This all comes down to the following:
Theory
============
Here are a list of recommended books:
(Someone else: make a list of good beginner books, I dunno of any).
There are also free online courses:
Software
===========
The primary software you need as a beginner is a "SPICE" simulator. You can place components like resistors, capacitors and inductors and the software will simulate the components.
Tools and Hardware
===========
WORK IN PROGRESS
==============
This one had good reviews when I bought it and hasn't burned down my house in the last 11 months! $80, if that's "inexpensive" to you.
Gesswein is Canadian, as is Caswell.
Not knowing where you are, I suggest you searching for a jeweller's supply shop.
In Vancouver there is Lacy West.
I'm pretty sure Rio Grande and/or Ottofrei will ship those chemicals to Canada.
Edited to add, I purchased this power supply from Amazon.com with no problems.
I have this one. It's a little heavy but works nicely and has o.c. protection.
This is not a recommendation, just some examples of what exists on the low end for bench supplies (off-the-shelf in the US):
KORAD KD3005D Precision Variable Adjustable 30V, 5A DC Linear Power Supply
That's a single output channel for $85.
I have something very similar to Triple Linear Variable DC Power Supply, Adjustable 30V/5A. There are many lookalikes. That's two adjustable channels, plus a fixed 5V (which I never use) for $180.
When working with a cheap supply, I:
I have this and it seems to work.
I ended up going with an adjustable amp/volt power supply.
I use a regulated power supply. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_69N1DbPAKQTZV
You want to make sure to use DC (Direct Current) and not an AC(Alternating Current. The regulated power supply lets you adjust the current and give more control. I use 5VDC for Carbon Steels and 12-25VDC for Stainless. I put the Positive on they item I want to etch and the Negative on a bolt with rubber bands holding a cotton balls on it. I use just salt water. Always keep it moving around when you are etching. I finish with a brass wire wheel to clean up. I get my stencils made from a local vinyl shop. They work great for me.
I got this thing
it's effectively a toy. Doesn't have adjustable current controls, just variable 0-15 volts. At the time I just needed something to probe some lipo battery cells in a surface power cover and and recharge them.
You would be much better off with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/KORAD-KD3005D-Precision-Adjustable-Regulated/dp/B00FPU6G4E
I've got this one, works well enough, no complaints. Plenty of power for charging up some lithium cells.
Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0 - 30V @ 0 - 5A with Alligator Cable and Power Cord,Upgraded TP3005D,HY3005D, Mastech
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JAxJyb86T5GFC
For scope: get a used tek on craigslist
For function generator: this kit
For iron: Hakko 888
You probably want a bench PSU as well: Korad 3005D
You need safety gear too!
Don't forget blank PCBs and etchant, breadboard, jumper wires, etc.
Do you think there's a market for this sort of thing? Like, if you were to sell the equivalent for $75, do you think there's enough people that would buy it to make it worth the time? Thinking about whether it would be worth the effort to make up a little version of this :)
I would be curious to see what the chip # is, as well as the 3-pin part on the side (under the grey heatsink putty).
I have a feeling what that active circuitry does is actually act as a constant current regulator to charge up the caps. The problem you will have with so much capacitance is getting a massive inrush when you first connect the power supply. Ie, the caps will look like you shorted the power supply until they reach the operating voltage. The power supply probably won't like that.
So, having said that, to answer your question about capacitance: You can try experimenting.
To start with, it looks like they have a 2200uF cap + 6 of whatever those other things are (still assuming they're flat pack caps, but they could be something else). My feeling is that they're probably some lower value to deal with some of the higher frequency components.
I would buy a selection of beefy caps, and just start putting them in parallel with the power supply. Make sure they're rated to be at least 16V!
Instead of the constant current circuit, you could have a toggle switch (make sure it's rated to at least 1.5A) in parallel with a 1-ohm power resistor.
When you want to connect power, you have the switch in the open position, then connect the power supply. Wait maybe 10 seconds, then flip the switch to the bypass / shorting position to remove the resistor from the circuit. At that point, you can use the camera.
Something like this:
https://imgur.com/a/5VgBx
EDIT: screwed up on power jack, more like this: https://imgur.com/a/00ujw
EDIT2: You can also buy constant voltage / constant current power supplies. Lab power supplies are an example. They won't care if you short the output; they'll happily limit the current to whatever they're set to. Actually, most wall adapters have a similar "anti-short" protection of some sort built in, so you might be able to get away with not using the switch / resistor trick.
You could buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523427142&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=lab+power+supply
I know theres not much love for the cheap import stuff in this thread, but i have this one, and its been verrry good to me for the price:
Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0-30V @ 0-5A with Alligator Test Leads (110V Input) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S9nYBb4J9SGFW
Bought one of these this year and like it a lot for home use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084JFWNY
I bought this. It has served me well through circuits and electronics classes. You can find a combo beadboard/components kit on Amazon.
You need the right voltage charger. Whenever I deal with any battery banks that are screwy voltages, I usually use my 4A lab bench power supply (Tektronics PS280) as a stand-in. Something like this or this would do just as well.
I was really hoping that was the case, but I swapped the cheapo power supply with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RNT1CD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And The same thing happens. I've got the Current dialed all the way, with the voltage at 5.5 (same as the power supply that works). It shows a 1.4 Amp draw, which the supply should be more than able to handle. Same deal though, servo runs to zero. Still works fine using the dedicated 5v supply putting out 5.5v.
There's a ton of them out there, but something like this is fine. If you are trying to go really cheap, then a battery charger is just fine. Just avoid newer ones because they usually come with an automatic shut off that won't work with your solution. There are a lot of electrolysis tutorials, but just knock any flaking paint off after you're satisfied and prime and paint. You might consider a self etching primer with a rust inhibitor if it's going back outside.
like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD
A bench power supply is just that. A power supply for your bench. It has an adjustable voltage output (the one I will be linking ranges from 0 volts to 30 volts) & an adjustable current limit (maximum amount of current it can provide before it lowers voltage to compensate).
It is really an essential tool for all sorts of troubleshooting and testing.
This is one of the first ones I found on Amazon. Power supply 0-30v
I would recommend doing some research on bench power supplies and making your own well informed decision on what is right for you.
Ill take a look when I get home again about behind the transformer. The fuse (more like a breaker) did blow at one point, which i was able to reset, but it did not last long. When it "blew" the second time, there was a definitive odor... Would something like this -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DVEZA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0BE394475YHEAV1APH2G&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1389517282&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RO8J98/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0BE394475YHEAV1APH2G&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1389517282&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
be able to run the motor?
This one seems to have good ratings. There are probably a couple dozen similar ones out there that are just as good.
https://smile.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541456044&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lab+power+supply
There are also multiple-output ones too -- it all depends on what you plan to do.
EDIT: After reading some of the reviews, do look at what they say about the way this one sets up the voltage. It might not remember the voltage setting on power-up, so you may have to set it each time before you connect it.
I meant the ELV DPS 7000 that he shows in the beginning of the video, not the computer PSU that he hacks into. Compared to something like this, the ELV looks like it's straight off the set of some 70's sci-fi flick.
You'll want a DC 0-120v variable power supply. There are some 1 amp models on Amazon that go for about
$120$150. They will get you the entire range of colors.Color is dependent on a few variables. But the biggest is voltage. Green is considered the hardest to get since it's at the 95-98v range.
The 1amp variant is a great intro to it but can struggle depending how much titanium surface area you are trying to anodize.
Edit: this is the one I started with and used for almost 2 years
You are looking at it the correct way. You want to be pretty exact when it comes to the power supply. Some electronics have more or less tolerance to the power supply being exact than others, so you can’t 100% rule out that you just don’t have the right one. Depending on your budget there’s a couple different things you can do. 1) try to email peavy customer support and tell them the exact model you have and if they can sell a power supply to you or recommend one that would work from their existing parts supply. If you’re lucky, they should be able to send you a power supply for pretty cheap (maybe $10-40 shipped...? Just a guess tho).
2) if you can’t get it from peavy, look for that exact voltage and amperage power supply from any electronics supplier online. If the barrel plug doesn’t exactly fit, splice it onto one that does fit the peavy.
3) the slightly more expensive option, but as you were indicating, you want to know whether or not it’s a power supply issue first. Over the years of investing in electronics, I eventually got a bench tester. This one :bench tester
It allows you to finely dial in whatever voltage and amperage setting you need to properly power your dc circuit. This is a really helpful tool to have and will
Allow you to provide power to any dc electronics that you’re troubleshooting or prototyping. Obviously if you’re trying to just stick to making work what you already have, it might be prohibitively expensive, but In the lifetime of working with electronics, this and a multimeter are invaluable
Although the theory and understanding of nodes and meshes from circuit theory is important, practical electronics-level knowledge can be found in The Art of Electronics. See genlib, but I suggest to buy it and get some basic electronics kit, a power supply (a proper lab supply with adjustable voltage and current limit [1]) and a breadboard and create the circuits that you're studying, play with the basic devices, and make a project once you get the hang of stringing logical blocks of circuit components together.
I find it fun :)
[1] SOmething like https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Eventek-KPS3010D-Switching-Regulated/dp/B073TW8H2S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lab+power+supply&qid=1565149853&s=gateway&sr=8-5
It is the same chassis as my current supply, maybe same actual device inside, but I found it for more like $60 a few years back. The key is the ability to set a current limit, so when you hook something up incorrectly the circuit doesn't fry.
I've never handled ones that looked like that. I'm more familiar with this type;
http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463512378&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=5a+dc+power+supply
I use an old ATX power supply for my hobby work, works decent. I added a high wattage resistor to provide a continuous load, there are some online guides on how to wire it. The 12V and 5V outputs are good enough for most of my projects. I have heard these are decent too, for the price.
Edit: changed link to HY3005D, Tekpower has ground isolation issues, apparently.
Crafty!! I've been looking at 0-120v dc power supplies. I Might try this one from AMAZON
Would this work? It seems to havethe same specs, but half the price?
You just want a controllable constant-current-constant-voltage power supply. Buy this.
Your solenoids, like all DC loads, have some Current vs Voltage curve, that they have to obey. For the simplest load possible, a 1-ohm resistor, that curve is Current = Voltage / 1 Ohm. Solenoids might have a nonlinear curve. But they simply can't operate off of the curve. All you get to do, as the operator, is choose where on the curve to be. You can apply whatever voltage you want, and the curve will dictate what current flows. Or you can choose what current you want, and apply the voltage that gives you that current. The device that you need to do both of those things is a constant-current-constant-voltage power supply.
What you've been told ("the voltage needs to remain at the same level whereas changing the amps with move the spool") is probably just a simplification of the fact that the current-voltage curve in the region of interest has a very high slope - so only tiny changes in voltage are needed to produce large changes in current. Or, put another way, the desired change in current will only require a tiny voltage change. Or they were just wrong, and misunderstand it themselves.
While I don't recommend bottom of the barrel, You hit the "monster-cable-better-digital-signal-quality" snake oil pretty quick in the PSU market.
Unless your overclocking and need super stable power at razor thin margins. Consumer gear can easily handle anything that's properly in spec.
More than about 100 bucks though and you could buy an actual Bench power supply
You can control fans and some pumps with a potentiometer (variable resistor) spliced into the power wire but I would be concerned with it heating up. I have an old one I can give you info on when I get home but there's also this regulator which would give you a nice display and adjustment point.
Not to revive an old topic, but does anyone know if the 3S on this amazon page is the same chip that is used in this video?
https://www.amazon.com/Eletechsup-Battery-Dedicated-Charger-Charging/dp/B07WKF3S3J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=NiMH+Charger+boaRD&amp;qid=1571965083&amp;sr=8-3
Get this
See that. Changed it to "power". A simpler supply? Any examples? I found this one too: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487919457&amp;sr=1-3
Bit more than you probaly want to spend, but I've had good luck with this one for about $90. Korad kd3005D
Say I'm building a mini ECU simulator. I need to provide 12v @ 5A DC over OBD-II. What's the best way to do this, with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=zg_bs_318022011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=P1DKJT59MMVX11ZWARXM ?
To be frank, I'd just get an adjustable bench power supply like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Adjustable-Switching-Regulated-Alligator-Spectrophotometer/dp/B07GCJP6B1/ref=sr_1_19?crid=2TCRYQFCCZ6PO&amp;keywords=bench+power+supply&amp;qid=1573485107&amp;sprefix=Bench+power%2Caps%2C182&amp;sr=8-19
Set it up to constant current, then hook it up.
This way you get feedback on voltage, current, and if you change setups (or want to do one battery at a time) you can.
I’m not really into messing with an atx power supply right now, I just want this to work so I can focus on other things.
Yea I agree that one I linked to looks like crap. If nothing else it just uses analog pots rather than rotary controllers and there’s no fine tune.
I ended up ordering this DC Power Supply Variable, Switching DC Regulated Power Supply with 4 Digital LCD Display (0-30V/0-5A), Reverse Polarity/High Temperature Protection, 110V/115CM Alligator Leads Included - MDC01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JQXQ8S5/ which has real reviews with people posting test results and such, and it’s got proper controls.
Humm... I just realized that’s a 5A but I guess I don’t really need 10A anyway. I can’t think of much I do that needs more than 5A and if I run into anything I’ll just do the ATX power supply thing.
Edit: actually I ended up cancelling that one and ordered this one Programmable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) HANMATEK HM305P Variable Switching Digital Power Supply with PC Software and USB Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPYF8ZW/ Decent reviews and has presets (plus some software control I probably won’t use any time soon).
https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Compact-Power-Supply-15V/dp/B0146K50LI/
Though I'd spend $20 more, which is why I said almost: http://www.mastechpowersupply.com/volteq-regulated-variable-dc-power-supply-hy1503d-15v-3a.html
I can't respect a video where someone shrinks their tubing with a lighter. Get a heat gun you savage!
Personally I started to make a bench supply out of an old ATX power supply (though I was just going to provide 12 and 5v outputs and deal with stepping it down externally) when I came across a good deal on one of the cheapies like this. A project is nice but I had other things I wanted to get to where this would be helpful.
Meh, as long as he allows others to do the same and doesn't sticky his own, I really don't see the problem.
Someone could always purchase some of these, post a video, and see what happens.
The best part to me is that I could order one on amazon for $30.