Best power tool lubricants according to redditors
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool lubricants. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool lubricants. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)
Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.
Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.
You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.
If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.
WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.
It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.
Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.
Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!
Use Houdini lock lube. WD-40 traps dust and it can make the inside all sticky.
Get the $7 can from Amazon.
My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.
Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.
> DuPont Chain Saver
cough
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404283315&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain-saver
Literally doesn't matter. Lubing an O or X ring chain (which is what 99.999% of bikes have today) is of dubious value. It's very doubtful to me that the lube even gets into the O rings, which is the major contact point while riding. The only real reasons to lube are to help prevent rust and keep the chain clean. I've seen my less maintenance-inclined friends run chains for 10k miles with maybe 1 or 2 lubes along the way, and certainly not a cleaning. There might be some level of increased wear and tear, but it's not going to matter.
Here's the best chain lube. The only one I've ever used that didn't fling shit all over when I was riding, and whatever extra fluid spills onto the swingarm is super easy to clean up, not that gunky shit you have to scrub off with oil or crappy lubes.
Spray, let it soak in, repeat.
Because whatever oil you're using is a wet lubricant so all of the dust and dirt and shit from the road sticks to it.
Use this https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
Yes, you can. In fact, it's vital to the waterproofing. You want a thin layer of silicone grease on the O-ring and threads. Cheap stuff from the plumbing aisle of a hardware store is fine, but if you want to go all-out, people swear by Nyogel 760G.
Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.
If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.
A more expensive lock might be cheaper for you, at this point.
Also, locks need maintenance too. Doubly so where you live. Let me just copy and paste Kryptonite's directions here:
>We recommend you clean & lubricate your lock(s) using these guidelines: If you are in an area that tends to have harsh climate changes with snow, rain or you're near the ocean, we recommend a monthly clean & lube. Otherwise, perform this maintenance on a bi-monthly basis. The areas of the lock you should focus on maintaining include the cylinder, deadbolts, u-shackle ends, or the lock-pin attached to cables.
>Step #1- Clean the above listed parts with a rag first (Note: If extra grime or corrosion is present, clean first with a degreaser spray or a WD40 type product. WD40 is not a lube, it is for cleaning.)
>Step #2- The lube type we recommend for all our locks is a "wax base" lubricant with added TEFLON. WAX helps as a carrier for the lubricant to coat and cling to the internal metal parts while TEFLON is a good slippery additive that gets in between the moving parts and reduces friction. Add a few drops on the above listed parts, then insert the keys. Turn the keys 5-10 times. This will keep the lock working great. Examples of this lubricant can be found in many local Bicycle or PowerSports shops, and Hardware stores.
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
That's one such lubricant, if you're wondering.
Best shit ever: DuPont Teflon Chain Saver- http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.
WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.
Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.
Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)
Just read these reviews...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr
I use this based off some suggestions on this sub. So far I like it, no real issues. I used to use probably the same stuff you have now and I never liked the idea of putting something sticky on my chain. This teflon stuff should also help clean your chain.
That stuff is ok, but it doesn't last long. I'd go with DuPont Teflon Chain Wax. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
It's available in a small aerosol to throw in a saddlebag on take on the road. I've been using it for about 35k miles on my streetbike and the chain still looks new.
I've been using it on my dirtbikes for over 10 years, and it is simply the best. My chain is cleaner and quieter than all my riding bros that like to use Maxima or Silkolene or any of that goopy messy stuff.
Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.
In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.
As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.
Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.
Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.
For shooting:
Cleaning:
Everything else:
As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...
Hand Tools
Power Tools
Also, there are fluids to consider
Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
use a silicon spray lube like this and just soak down the control arm bushings. This fixed it for me but it needs to be re-applied about once a year.
I've had my car looked at in so many different ways. As part of my clutch install i told the mech to keep an eye out for anything loose because of this issue. The entire subframe had to get dropped and brand new hardware mounted it back in. All the suspension looked perfectly fine (note none of the hardware for the suspension was touched, just the subframe) and had absolutely 0 play. But the moment he drove it out of his garage for a test drive it creaked out of the parking lot.
So yeah, control arm bushings.
EDIT: But for a brand new car their reaction is kind of rude. Maybe talk to the person who sold you the car and explain and have them come for a quick drive to show them. Its hard to get a mechanic to take a drive with you to show them a problem without paying them a disgnostics fee a least or something
There are a few options. What to use depends on what the tool will be used for. Is it solely for collection or display? Or will I be using it daily once restored, or somewhere in between with use maybe 2-3 times a year.
Obviously WD-40 or any other oil will prevent rust, but may be annoying to have to wipe down and degrease the tool before handling. If it’s a tool you use daily or even weekly, I wouldn’t even worry about any kind of anti rust. Your handling it, skin oils, and wear and tear will more or less keep rust away.
The ultimate, IMO, for preventing rust on tools more susceptible to rust than others (vintage pyroxylin handle screwdrivers, I’m looking at you), or that you’ll be handling and don’t want to get all oily when using or have to degrease/wipe down before using is Top-Cote . I’ve been using it for years and it does a great job. It’s waxy rather than oily and prevents rust very well. It’s resistance to handling isn’t super high, but it’s not horrible. It’s nice because it won’t ruin wood, fabric, or other oil sensitive surfaces. This is also an awesome treatment for a metal machine surface, especially in climates with higher humidity or where lower coefficient of friction is desirable.
Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.
The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.
Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.
https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482666202&sr=8-7&keywords=lock+lube My personal go to lube on everything other than medeco and Assa locks. Just because of the warranty.
Boe-shield is the industry standard for inside a steel frame
I don't know if links are allowed here but Mountain Electronics has a replacement lens here and it's glass
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=929&search=emisar+d4
I don't work for them but I just got my d4 from them and the experience was great.
I clean my threads with microfiber cloths with some warm water then I use this as a lubricant.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOMKGPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't generally use detergents or anything more than warm water on anything. Rubbing alcohol seems like a safe bet for some things but I wouldn't let it touch your o-rings.
Best of luck.
What you want is a can of this stuff called [Houdini](houdini lock lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H6TKBbW7HM9MV)
And break pad cleaner for electronics
http://www.amazon.com/FROGLUBE-Brand-PREMIUM-Lubricant-Liquid/dp/B003ZW0LXQ 4oz liquid and 4 oz paste for under $35
EDIT: cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/Frog-Lube-Liquid-Bottle-4-Ounce/dp/B00579HNK4
http://www.amazon.com/Froglube-Paste-Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant/dp/B004FOV89E
If you want to lubricate your stickbox, I only recommend using this:
https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72
All of them do, unless they're aluminum. Best bet for prevention is a liberal application of this stuff on the inside of all the sheet metal, in late fall:
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B0000DD1DV
Will not hurt paint, but leaves a waxy, oily coating that protects and water beads right off it.
Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.
Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.
Some or all of these would be appreciated I bet!
S100 Total Cycle Cleaner - The fastest, easiest method to keep your bike clean
Maxima Clean-Up Chain Cleaner - This gets the bike's chain clean with little if any scrubbing needed
DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver - This keeps dirt out of the chain and keeps the links well lubricated
Say hello to my little friend.
I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.
After your guys' suggestions, here's what I bought.
Thanks!
Use Boeshield T-9 for long term storage or high humidity environments instead of wax.
WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.
PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.
For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.
I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.
You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.
WD40 and a palm sander worked very well. I then sealed it with this stuff
Bostik 10220 Aerosol Top-Cote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223UD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X0qIDbCMEGJDK
It slides so well now.
For severe corrosion, try some penetrating oil like
PB Blaster.
Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
> WD-40 is not a lubricant.
So many people don't understand this.
I've been using Boesheild T9 for years after a friend recommended it. He races bicycles and this is what many riders use on their chains. The waxy finish doesn't get flung off like wet lubricants and it doesn't attract dirt.
I had this problem recently, turned out that a small rock had snuck into the threads and jammed in there.
The solution was to use a bunch of this shit while the bike was on its side. Hit the axle from the ends as hard as you dare with a non-metal thing like a mallet and keep reapplying blaster a few times over a couple hours. Once you run out of patience, get the best fitting wrench you can in there and cross your fingers while you yank on it.
A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).
I've become a big fan of WD-40 Silicone Spray. I've been lightly applying it on the tops of all the screws after the post-bash RC shower, and it keeps the rust away.
I have cleaned and repaired many. First get the dust and dirt off. Then, if you find a center hub covered by a cap or thin plastic sticker, remove to expose the bearing. Then a drop or two of this stuff, and you have a good chance of resurrection. Praise grid.
Ballistol, PB Blaster and White Lightning.
If corded electric, make sure it’s unplugged, or remove the battery if it has one.
If you’re having trouble with the bolt, hit it with a bit of PB Blaster (also available at Walmart and auto parts stores) and let it sit for a bit. That’s a far better penetrating oil than WD-40.
If it’s still stuck, have a friend hold the blade while you crank on it with a wrench that has a longer handle, or put a pipe over the wrench you’re using (a “cheater bar”).
If that still fails, it’s time to buy an impact wrench/driver and a set of impact sockets. Never pass up an opportunity to buy tools! If you’ve already got cordless power tools from another brand, you can likely find an impact wrench that takes the batteries you’ve got. I just happen to be a Bosch fan.
Also, make sure you’re using the right size wrench. You don’t want to round off that bolt.
Someone mentioned jamming wood under the blade to hold it still while you’re wrenching on it. That seems like a fine idea.
Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.
I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.
If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.
Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.
Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.
Failing voltage regulator can cause the flickering. The regulator is in your alternator, so it'd require a new one
Usually when an alternator goes out, it's been going out, and will take the battery out with it.
So, it's possible you'll be needing to replace both in the future
The thing moving is belt tensioner, it's designed to move like that
For noise in the serpentine belt area, I take a silicone based lubricant and spray each bearing until the noise shuts up. If you spray a bearing and it shuts up, that's it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gQm1DbF3EXRNW
Ooh it's four dollars! Ordered. Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdI0DbKX6MN0W
Mmm... you brush some krytox on those switch parts, then you rub some extreme fluoro on those stabilizers, you naughty typist.
Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.
I've used paste wax and GlideCote, both are susceptible to occasional rust. I may try T9 at some point. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
I think for a hand plane, a simple solution would be to store it wrapped up in a cotton cloth. If the only time it was out in the open is when it's being used, that might have a serious impact on oxidation.
What tools do you have?
For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.
IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.
To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.
I wish I was aware of Dupont Chain Saver with Teflon when I started riding. It is pretty amazing stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGHY
I bought one or two from Radio Shack a few years ago. The pen applicator is pretty handy.
At 21 seconds, middle of the frame just above the tire, see that part moving? Hit it with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 I would even try wd40, or even plain water. Apply lubrication and listen for a change in the sound.
That sound is rubber squeaking. Any place that moves and has rubber is a canditate for that noise. Spray all the things.
This will find your problem and solve it short term. Maybe once every few months lube it again. Replace the part once you find it is the long term solution.
https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PJED72&pd_rd_r=6FZHC6Y5RKFKB0BCMWZ2&pd_rd_w=DgZWZ&pd_rd_wg=jhiBG&psc=1&refRID=6FZHC6Y5RKFKB0BCMWZ2
will prevent the door seals from freezing shut
If you are trying to free up sticky, the best thing I have found is PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. Be sure to have a pair of rubber gloves and lots of ventilation. Be very careful not to let this get on plastic. I'd spray a little bit down where the typebar goes into the element and work the key until it is smooth up and down. Wipe off the excess and let it air out for a day or so. You should be good to go. A little goes a long way. This has freed every sticky machine I've ever dealt with. Regarding lubrication, I guess I'd say the lighter the machine oil the better - http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-EXTRA-LONG-synthetic-movements/dp/B00CD814RA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396799365&sr=8-4&keywords=clock+oil+kit
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9
My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps
Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.
Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.
Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.
These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha
> superlube grease
Thanks! Would this one suffice? https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Lube-21010-Synthetic-Multi-Purpose/dp/B005R2NIIC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=superlube+grease&qid=1564667373&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I use wd-40 silicone spray lubricant on all things that are sealed with rubber (doors, windows, sunroofs ...)
It leaves a very very thin layer that soaks a little bit into the rubber and also protects it. It does not destroy paint and is easily applied in spray form.
Since i have not seen anyone suggest this yet, WD-40 has a specialist silicone spray that is both plastic safe and dielectric. Hold down your trigger and spray a very small amount in the trigger hinge area.
Got rid of that same problem for me with no shipping.
This stuff ---> https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U
I was just reading a comparison in Fine Woodworking mag.
They found this to be the best overall for both tool steel and cast iron. (take it for what it's worth).
I've always used paste wax. They found it to be marginally effective. I've never had rust issues, then again, my shop isn't all that damp.
I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:
Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU
As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD
As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371
For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E
Either get a chain brush with nylon bristles, or else use an old rag. Apply chain specific cleaner, or else kerosene, or WD-40 to the chain and cleaning tool, scrub the chain. If you haven't touched the chain in a while, you'll probably want to spend around 10 minutes working on cleaning it up. After that, you can either use chain lube or chain wax. Either is fine, it doesn't really matter which you use. Wax does tend to make less of a mess, at least as far as I've noticed.
If you want specific products, here's a chain cleaner,
here's a brush,
and here's chain wax
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E
Orange/citrus degreaser works great and is non-toxic. If you like a clean chain, use wax instead of oil-based lube. Wax works just as well, but needs to be reapplied more often. Some folks use actual paraffin wax. Most recently, I use a wax spray made by Dupont that also has Teflon in it - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6FD4
What do I clean my chain with before I wax it? This is what I use to wax.
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416845035&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+saver
I used WD40 to clean it but people say that's not good for it. What else should I use?
I bought mine 10 years ago. The 12". Thyy had no carbide cutters at the time. A retrofit is available from Holbren.
The straight knives are good quality and and last a long time. The machine never failed me. Just keep the table clean and slick. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD
Pick up one of these for $13 and this for $5 and practice wherever whenever!
OEM's use dry silicone spray.
https://www.amazon.com/MWUR9-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72
Boom:
Houdini Lock Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7F22Cb8QKMNNJ
I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.
Try this: BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 4 oz aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1DV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKfECbFZQFBSM
WD40 is good at removing rust, not so good at preventing it.
You would want something like this https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
yes that 3in1 will do fine, but thicker will be more responsive and last longer.
You can melt vaseline into a bearing with a lighter - hold the bearing on the end of a pencil or something you don't care about burning a bit. Make sure you only do this if the bearing is all metal.
"Brain Lube" is the best, imo - this is the same stuff https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51010-Oil/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499211271&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube+ptfe
Mineral spirits cuts the oil - distributes it more evenly and thinly - so adding it to your lube makes it less responsive.
Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
Pick up some chain lube, a can of plexus, and a microfiber towel. These are really simple things that are easy to overlook, but make a difference.
It's pretty easy to roll the bike a couple feet and spray the chain in sections every few hundred miles even without a stand.
I'm always surprised at how much less fatiguing a long ride is with a clean visor. Just less things for your brain to process if there aren't as many bugs in your vision.
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/
They should all be synthetic grease and therefore not cause problems with rubber/plastic parts.
I'd recommend getting some Super Lube multi purpose online, like here.
I’ve heard really good things about Lock Houdini, which is a lube specifically designed for use in locks.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive
PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.
Once you remove the rust you should try TopCote its a sealant, lubricant and its finish safe. Having a safe lubricant to put on the tablesaw top is frigging awesome. I couldn't believe how much easier it made running a sheet of plywood through or doing cross cut work.
These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.
have you tried boeshield?
http://smile.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B0000DD1DV?sa-no-redirect=1
The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.
You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.
Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.
Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.
Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.
EDIT: Linkies.
or PB blaster.
A friend of mine in a lock smith. He says to use a product called "Houdini lock oil" and to never use graphite. I will attest that I've used graphite several times with wild success.
Super Lube 51010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cn8OCb5WJ71QT
You’ll want to add a drop to the horizontal pivot point inside that angled round donut part.
Edit: red line is the imaginary axle. Apply lube to points marked by yellow arrows https://imgur.com/a/ZlmV6Uw
I have been using this for chain lube:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839
It is, frankly, amazing. It goes on like WD40. What I like about it is that it dries to a waxy like consistency so that it doesn't fling off all over the place and it isn't tacky and doesn't attract dirt like more liquid libricants.
I actually use it on a street motorcycle chain as well and have been very satisfied with that application as well.
EDIT: It looks like they changed the formulation of the multi-purpose lube. It is no longer a dry wax lube and is therefore not suitable for chain use anymore. :-(
They say that this is similar to the old formula, but I haven't tried it yet. I will soon since I am almost out of the old stuff. :-(
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
They were much cheaper on eBay (less quantity), but here's the links for Amazon:
Krytox GPL 205
Krytox GPL 105
Dupont Teflon Si
And I can't find the Victorinox on Amazon
I was using KG-4 but after seeing some recent experiments using a number of different products, I switched over to Frog Lube.
So far both have done their job. KSG-4 smells like gun oil ought to smell. Frog Lube smell's minty like muscle ache cream for old people. For me personally... I'll tolerate a rifle that smells like Grandpa if it keeps it from rusting.
I use this stuff on my handplanes and chisels your wrenches and other gear should be plated in something that inhibits rust I've never had any of my craftsman handtools develop rust. If you de-rust them you can then polish and put a clear coat on them to protect them a bit better
If you don't feel like taking the time to spray paint them, I'd say go with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001447PEK
It sprays wet like wd-40, but dries to a thin waxy film that last months.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice for switches
Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.
Know what I don't keep in my car? Candles. Know what I do? PB Blaster. Instead of using pinterest inspired gimmicks I do what actual adults do. Buy PB Blaster (or any other version of penetrating oil) and use it like it is intended.
It is not expensive and works wonders on everything. If you aren't in a hurry you can get it for $3.64 on Amazon Prime Shipped.
If you need it today then hit up your local Autozone or Wal-Mart or whatever place you have around you that deals with automotive stuffs. They will have it. It's everywhere. Know what they don't have in that aisle? Candles.
Yes, I use https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 for similar issues although I don't have AKGs.
Boeshield T9 spray
We used this on everything in the cabinet shop. Spray on, let it dry a few minutes then wipe it off. Table saw tops, miter saw slides, blades, plane soles, chisels, everything. I had used white lithium before but it honestly don't hold a candle to T9. Kinda expensive but a can will listi you a couple years.
https://smile.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boeshield+t9&qid=1562926091&s=gateway&sprefix=boes&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-14-Ounce/dp/B00D3G6FD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465398683&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain+lube
What year is your Streety? I'd highly recommend PitBull stands. VERY well made, but a bit pricey.
Also, head on over to triumphrat.net if you haven't already and register. Lots of excellent advice from knowledgeable folks.
$12 via Amazon Prime. Froglube CLP 4 Oz. Tub of Paste Gun Clean... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FOV89E/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_aBijub1RCE2V6
https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-Lubricant-Perfluoropolyether-Industrial-Bottle/dp/B0096VV9ZE/
If you pour a little bit on top of the switch's stem, without opening it, it should mess up the switch for life, it won't click anymore
Obviously a bad thing to do, but you might like it (it would be a unique switch, a bit sluggish, but silent)
I read that Hypersphere (guy who makes the Topre silencing rings of the same name) uses Super Lube 51010 to lube his Topre switches. Is there anything wrong with this lube that I should know (not plastic safe, wrong viscosity, etc.) before I order some?
Also, how long after using a keyboard should I lube it? A year or so?
Many dielectric greases are ptfe (Teflon) based. What you want is a thick grease, not a thin oil. (To get technical, you want something with nlgi grade 2)
I can recommend superlube brand's silicone dielectric grease.
NyogGel
https://www.amazon.com/NyoGel-Synthetic-Flashlight-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B00BOMKGPW
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394596607&sr=1-1&keywords=p+blaster
I use a stripped screw extractor kit. Very handy for under $20; I've had good luck with them.
Don't forget to spracy the screw with a penetrating oil first!
I have some of this. I'll give it a try. I feel like I was hitting it pretty hard but I was definitely afraid of damaging something. I could definitely hit harder. Thanks for the response.
You could use something like this http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U maybe. Silicone based lubricants are safe for plastics and squeaking is always some friction between the plastic parts.
Oh by the way, this is what I used: http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B00631GSSI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
locksmith here. I dont see any lock on the door. No dial at least. Is it key operated? It could just be a hatch of some kind thats rusted shut. Try lubricating the crap out of it and using something like pb blaster or a similar penetrating oil. let that sit for a while than try opening it.
Aha "Stoddard Solvent" on the prop, then paint ... also known as Marvel Mystery Oil AKA Naptha ...
To summarize the the manual: Dip the plane in paint thinner, then wash with dish soap.
White spirit or mineral spirits, also known as mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), varsol, Stoddard solvent, or, generically, "paint thinner", is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting and decorating.
WD-40 w/ silicone works nice on props to clean and make them pretty.
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U/
Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
I use Boeshield T-9 to protect my woodworking tools from rusting. Its a bit expensive but it lasts a long time. I reapply it once a year. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK
Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.
The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.
Oh, and in the future try PB Blaster instead when you're trying to free something that is seized up. It is far superior to WD-40 for that task.
I actually like the way aluminium goes when it dulls down. This also, conveniently doesn't need maintenance.. However a guy here:
http://www.finishing.com/3600-3799/3674.shtml
recommends this stuff (Boeshield T-9):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK/ref=nosim?tag=finishingcominc
to keep the shine, disses on Carnauba wax.
Best way to check it is to just spin the cassette with your hand. Does anything feel crunchy? Is it smooth? Is there any (significant) play or looseness?
Unless you notice anything wrong you're pretty much good to go. If you thinking the bearings need some lube you could spray a bit of T-9 in the hub-no disassembly required.
Tbh shimano hubs are pretty bad imo and if the freehub (or any other part of the hub) is starting to fail on you it would be prudent to just go ahead and replace the whole hub. Possibly the whole wheel as that would likely be cheaper, especially if you go used. Deore hubs are very low end and they have terrible terrible loose ball bearings. Not even worth fixing most of the time.
I've use this Nyogel container on nearly 50 flashlights, multiple times, and still have 60% of the container. It is AMAZING stuff.
Frame Saver is fine, but sort of a waste of money. Boesheild T-9 works better, comes in larger bottles, and is cheaper by volume. It also has more applications than Frame Saver, so there's added value there, too.
So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.
Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH
3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR
Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G
Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT
>https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD
Thanks for the info! I'll get a can of that and try it out.
This stuff is your friend when it comes to rust. One can has lasted me awhile.
Spray that on the rusted area and let it sit for a day or two for best results. Get a wrench that fits on the bolt, and take a hammer to the end of the wrench. There are better and safer ways to break free a rusted bolt (impact hammer/wrench) but this is the cheap way.
boeshield T-9
As for your stripped screw problem, i had the same problem on my Acura. I have a fatty flathead screwdriver, probably 5 time normal. I dremeled a notch into the head of the screw, sprayed it with blaster, let it sit for a bit and cursed and put a fair amount of weight into it and it broke free.
Maybe something like crc 3-36
CRC 3-36 Multi-Purpose Lubricant and Corrosion Inhibitor, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear/Blue/Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192EX10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfY3Cb1VX44ZF
FlexSeal yes! :)
I remove the plastic cases from my ESC and receiver and go to town with 4-6 coats of FlexSeal! :)
My Axial Wraith has been running right up the middle of streams for 2+ years now. Been 100% submerged for minutes at a time. Never glitched even a little bit.
I wouldn't use FlexSeal on joints of any type though. It will rip over time from repetitive back and forth motion.
Also, the "White Lightning" stuff you're talking about from cycling sounds like what RC calls "dry lubricant". I've seen RC guys use this from 3M.
The other option is Marine Grease. It's made for boating and lot's of offroad crawlers use it. Some guys pack their entire transmission, differential and axle with it.
I had to replace the front passenger hub assembly on my wife's minivan. The bearing nut came off with no problems and I thought that was going to be the bear. Nope. One of the brake caliper support bolts would NOT budge even with my impact and a half a can of PB Blaster. Eventually got it off after heating up the housing around the bolt with some
MAPPpropylene gas. That thing was ON there.That seems to be something in the tilting mechanism. It may be that the spring inside there has lost its lubrication. Try adjusting the tension if the tilting to see if that changes anything. Also to lubercate it I would try a spray lubricant. Like this or anything similar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dhASybSCX03CF
Great job! You might try PBlaster next time you have seized screws, it does a much better job than WD40. I used it this weekend cleaning up a Disston D-15 Victory saw. Same store had a few stanley planes but they were too far gone for saving.
https://imgur.com/a/ZCANI -- Saw ended up good enough for me to use. Might watch that Paul Sellers video on sharpening them, I think it's sharp but who knows.
Apologies for the odd angles - uploaded from Imgur mobile and didn't see where to flip the image. Guessing saw dates somewhere between 1928 and 1945. The victory symbol changed to a "V" around then by the eagle.
Because it attracts dirt and dust and over time it will be like you sprayed a soda inside. It gunks up the lock horribly. Use Houdini, it works really well and it smells nice too. http://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459130125&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+spray
That stuff looks good
This is a terrible price BTW, should be at walmart--
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
Try using PB Blaster to penetrate the gunk. I had this issue with a old VW and PB Blaster helped. Also tried using the blow torch/impact wrench. that failed but PB Blaster and this methods combined worked. HTH
hey friends! would either of these be good for switch lube? going for hako clears/tealios if that matters, thanks!
edit: canadian, so id have to pay an arm and a leg for krytox/tribosys
edit2: or if you have other suggestions, im open to them!
My bottle of EWL Slip 2000 claims it's non-toxic.
I regularly use Bostik TopCote on most of my machines with cast iron tops. It protects well, and leaves a really slick yet dry surface.
http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD
If I find surface rust on one of my machines I use Top Saver and a piece of scotch-brite to remove the rust and condition the metal. Then I apply the TopCote for protection.
I was able to spray some lubricant on the key itself to turn it so I can start it for an oil change. Do you think this product will work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_FLYXDbJX1G6C9
I use Eezox on the outside, Slip 2000 EWL on the inside.
Pick up a can of Bosheild formulated by Boeing for corrosion prevention during airplane assembly it is the standard in multiple industries. If you are not riding for a few days a quick spray will keep the bike from starting corrosion. Otherwise a bi weekly clean up and oiling will keep the bikes in good shape, if you can rig a small cover you could just put the bikes under the humidity won't be as big of an issue.
I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.
I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.
Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:
Would anyone of those be a replacement for 205g0 or teflon grease to lubricate the stabilizer housing?
Any reason to go with Super Lube over Permatex to lube the metal bars?
Pure silicone lubes are absolutely edible, as it is considered one of the most inert chemical substance in the world.
[inert = lazy = no reaction = zzzzzz.....]
To get a grasp of how safe it is, just consider this: it is commonly used in surgical treatment of (eye) retinal detachment, and breast implant (enlargement).
For top medical grade / personal lube, its ingredient should contains no more than these 3 (Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane), else it is not pure.
It should be no colour (transparent), no taste, no smell.
Do dot confuse it with industrial grade silicone lube available from your local hardware store (https://www.amazon.ca/WD-40-300014-Specialist-Resistant-Lubricant/dp/B00631GSSI), which is NOT edible.
Information courtesy of http://silicone100.com/demystifying-silicone-oil.html
dupont makes something specifically for motorcycle chains:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0VDC2
i have it, but have not tried it yet. i have been using YamaLube forever (even though i only recently got a Yamaha):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BH9OSG
every bike place i have been seems to have yamalube, even if they dont sell yahama's.
You've never heard of PB Blaster? This stuff is magic
Nyogel 760g is the best https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOMKGPW/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_APNnybBSP7ZVM
Review: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?204355-CPFReviews-com-Nyogel-779ZC-Nyogel-759G-Nyogel-760G-Lubricants
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=pd_all_spx_5/146-4021135-0122059?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I2079E&pd_rd_r=69018b96-57a5-11e9-8bb5-4d66d06308ae&pd_rd_w=Z79rJ&pd_rd_wg=BI4pX&pf_rd_p=181658a1-8c8b-49ea-9a7c-d3e4ca5d6a8c&pf_rd_r=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8&psc=1&refRID=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8
Try a different lube, like PB blaster
Try to intentionally apply pressure in the "ON" direction. Sometimes it will break free enough while tightening to come loose.
Try hitting the crank arm while trying to loosen/tighten. A rubber mallet or deadblow would be best.
If the above still does not work only then would I start methods that may cause damage... like more force or heat.
You need to use a screw extractor.
If you've lead a good clean life (and it looks like you haven't) it will come right out.
If you don't want to buy the tool or don't have the drill to use it with just go to your LBS. Any competent one should be able to do this for you for a rather small charge.
If you have reason to suspect the screw is in there real good start applying PB Blaster or other penetrating oil now. Do whoever will be removing it a favor and get penetrating early. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil.
I have not. But it's cheap, so that's good. If you've got Amazon prime, you could also go with this stuff. That'll fix you up right.
I wouldn't worry about getting a whole new board. Just do the best you can to clean out that Finish Line stuff (maybe unplug and use an old toothbrush wetted lightly with isopropyl alcohol), then give it a healthy dosage if dielectric grease. It'll help a lot.
Yeah, I didn't think so, re: WD-40.
Anti-seize will probably help on the threads, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can coat on wheel bolt that'll actually stay put when exposed to the road, and offer protection without interfering with the threads. I have some Boeshield T-9...my mechanic recommended it for keeping my coilover threads from getting gummed up, so I'm thinking this will work.
I'm reading petroleum jelly will dry out o-ring if it's rubber (not sure what mine is, haven't looked)
I do have WD-40 or this silicone spray. I'm thinking maybe the silicone spray?
I usually spray whatever I have handy, most often CRC eletronics cleaner or WD40 brand silicon spray which is awesome because its got built in nozzle that doesn't fall off...
https://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI
https://amzn.com/B00631GSSI
Anyways I spray something just to get hardened dirt a bit moist, or in general any liquid will help cut down on friction ... spray motor, then point datavac into motor best I can, not using any attachments or anything and then start rotating motor back and forth. I try not to force, like I'll just start turning other direction if it gets stuck a little... just back and forth is the goal.
Combination of lube + airflow + rotation to sorta nudge stuff / change direction of airflow on a piece of dirt, usually after like 30s motor is pretty dirt free. If after 30s it still can feel dirt, like my lazy side will make me just to force rotation more... might scratch up stuff but will also break up whatever little rocks or whatever stuff is stuck in there. Just try to avoid it as much as possible but in the end motor is like $20... not worth babying it.
Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.
List of everything I used:
Think thats everything. Enjoy!!
I think a better choice would be Boeshield T9.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B001447PEK/
I would use one specifically designed for electronics like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KH0YDY