Best power tool lubricants according to redditors

We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool lubricants. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Power Tool Lubricants:

u/statikstasis · 72 pointsr/howto

[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

u/eclectro · 29 pointsr/WhatsInThisThing

If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.

u/Badbullet · 23 pointsr/3Dprinting

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.

u/Nemo_Griff · 23 pointsr/lockpicking

Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!

Use Houdini lock lube. WD-40 traps dust and it can make the inside all sticky.

u/bendvis · 14 pointsr/motorcycles
u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/flagsblack · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Literally doesn't matter. Lubing an O or X ring chain (which is what 99.999% of bikes have today) is of dubious value. It's very doubtful to me that the lube even gets into the O rings, which is the major contact point while riding. The only real reasons to lube are to help prevent rust and keep the chain clean. I've seen my less maintenance-inclined friends run chains for 10k miles with maybe 1 or 2 lubes along the way, and certainly not a cleaning. There might be some level of increased wear and tear, but it's not going to matter.

Here's the best chain lube. The only one I've ever used that didn't fling shit all over when I was riding, and whatever extra fluid spills onto the swingarm is super easy to clean up, not that gunky shit you have to scrub off with oil or crappy lubes.

u/fire84 · 9 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Spray, let it soak in, repeat.

u/High-Def-Piss-Jugs · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Because whatever oil you're using is a wet lubricant so all of the dust and dirt and shit from the road sticks to it.

Use this https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

u/coherent-rambling · 8 pointsr/flashlight

Yes, you can. In fact, it's vital to the waterproofing. You want a thin layer of silicone grease on the O-ring and threads. Cheap stuff from the plumbing aisle of a hardware store is fine, but if you want to go all-out, people swear by Nyogel 760G.

u/Eccentrica_Gallumbit · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.

If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.

u/tepidviolet · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting

A more expensive lock might be cheaper for you, at this point.

Also, locks need maintenance too. Doubly so where you live. Let me just copy and paste Kryptonite's directions here:

>We recommend you clean & lubricate your lock(s) using these guidelines: If you are in an area that tends to have harsh climate changes with snow, rain or you're near the ocean, we recommend a monthly clean & lube. Otherwise, perform this maintenance on a bi-monthly basis. The areas of the lock you should focus on maintaining include the cylinder, deadbolts, u-shackle ends, or the lock-pin attached to cables.

>Step #1- Clean the above listed parts with a rag first (Note: If extra grime or corrosion is present, clean first with a degreaser spray or a WD40 type product. WD40 is not a lube, it is for cleaning.)

>Step #2- The lube type we recommend for all our locks is a "wax base" lubricant with added TEFLON. WAX helps as a carrier for the lubricant to coat and cling to the internal metal parts while TEFLON is a good slippery additive that gets in between the moving parts and reduces friction. Add a few drops on the above listed parts, then insert the keys. Turn the keys 5-10 times. This will keep the lock working great. Examples of this lubricant can be found in many local Bicycle or PowerSports shops, and Hardware stores.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

That's one such lubricant, if you're wondering.

u/MindBlowingExpansion · 6 pointsr/motorcycles
u/pour_bees_into_pants · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.

WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.

u/khanable_ · 6 pointsr/ender3

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

u/Philanthropiss · 6 pointsr/todayilearned

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

u/beestakingthe405 · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

I use this based off some suggestions on this sub. So far I like it, no real issues. I used to use probably the same stuff you have now and I never liked the idea of putting something sticky on my chain. This teflon stuff should also help clean your chain.

u/shadow247 · 5 pointsr/Dualsport

That stuff is ok, but it doesn't last long. I'd go with DuPont Teflon Chain Wax. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

It's available in a small aerosol to throw in a saddlebag on take on the road. I've been using it for about 35k miles on my streetbike and the chain still looks new.

I've been using it on my dirtbikes for over 10 years, and it is simply the best. My chain is cleaner and quieter than all my riding bros that like to use Maxima or Silkolene or any of that goopy messy stuff.

u/DuePurchase · 5 pointsr/bicycling

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

u/vbaspcppguy · 5 pointsr/Jeep

Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

u/34k · 5 pointsr/cade

Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.

u/Ehtacs · 5 pointsr/guns

Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.

For shooting:

  • Eye pro - Best to have a case and alternate lenses are nice for indoor and outdoor range time. The most basic of eyewear will run you $20+ at ranges so get it ahead of time.

  • Indoor ear pro - Same as eye pro... These ran me $35+tax when I decided to double up on my outdoor ear pro at the range. Plenty comfortable!

  • Outdoor ear pro - Muffs can be hot outside, especially in the middle of summer, but luckily you often won't need to same level of protection. It can also be nice if your muffs get in the way of a good cheek weld on a stock. I've tried regular ear plugs and the Surefire plugs but nothing beats something form-fitted to your ear especially for marathon shooting events. Couple with muffs for more protection. These are still pretty new to me but I'm happy with them so far. Easy to form and make a noticeable after a while.

  • Targets - Splatter targets are amazing when youre working on marksmanship. You can easily see your hits from a distance and the contrast makes it easier for spotters to see your latest shot if you're looking through glass. These will also run you a significant premium if you buy at the range. Splatterburst targets are cheaper than Dirty Bird and, IMHO, more visible in indoor (darker) ranges. They're a great size up close for handguns and out to 70-100 yards for rifles. For plinking, just get the cheapest paper targets the range offers. You likely won't see your hits from a distance but, at that point, you probably don't really care.


    Cleaning:

  • Some good solvent - You can spend a long time scraping carbon. Good solvent will let you wipe it off with a rag. Breakfree CLP, in my experience, leads to more of the former.

  • Some lubricant - Opinions vary from person to person. I used to use Breakfree CLP as a lubricant all the time but there were certain sources indicating that it, like Frog-lube, is less than ideal in different ways. Slip won out among the bunches but I honestly couldn't tell you why. It was something regarding organic/synthetic compositions and temperatures coupled with anecdotal shit. Good one to Google if you're interested.

  • Some brushes - Good for detail cleaning that a rag wont handle. White brush is also fantastic for clearing crap out of the seams of an XBox controller.

  • Cleaning kit - I don't use it as much since I tried boresnakes but there are some good tools in here. Its compact since you use a cable to pull brushes but that means its no good for clearing jams. I'd get it again if I felt I needed a full kit but, again, I rarely use it.

  • Boresnakes - I remember people hating these (again, don't remember why) so I ignored them for the longest time. They're compact and make cleaning your barrel a breeze... Epic-ly better than running a small patch down your barrel. Almost entirely replaced my cleaning kit for most post-range cleaning. They have a small wire brush portion which you can floss back and forth with shorter barrels, too. Coupled with a good solvent, these fucking rock.

  • Nylon brushes - If you end up needing to run brushes down your barrel, it's probably good to not scratch the shit out of it. This was an impulsive buy but I don't regret giving Otis another $9 for their awesome products.


    Everything else:

  • Thread locker - If you get a collection going, there's a good chance you'll be playing with screws quite a bit. Lock down scope rings, set screws on sights, etc.

  • Anti-Seize - Completely necessary if you have multiple chokes for a shotgun and/or ever intend to use them.
u/d_paulson · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

  1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.

  2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.

  3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.

  4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.

  5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.

    Power Tools

  6. A Dremel

  7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.

  8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.

  9. A drill press

    Also, there are fluids to consider

  10. Simple Green

  11. Penetrating oil

  12. Wood Glue

  13. Mineral Spirits

  14. Linseed Oil

    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
u/jbourne0129 · 5 pointsr/GolfGTI

use a silicon spray lube like this and just soak down the control arm bushings. This fixed it for me but it needs to be re-applied about once a year.

I've had my car looked at in so many different ways. As part of my clutch install i told the mech to keep an eye out for anything loose because of this issue. The entire subframe had to get dropped and brand new hardware mounted it back in. All the suspension looked perfectly fine (note none of the hardware for the suspension was touched, just the subframe) and had absolutely 0 play. But the moment he drove it out of his garage for a test drive it creaked out of the parking lot.

So yeah, control arm bushings.

EDIT: But for a brand new car their reaction is kind of rude. Maybe talk to the person who sold you the car and explain and have them come for a quick drive to show them. Its hard to get a mechanic to take a drive with you to show them a problem without paying them a disgnostics fee a least or something

u/86M1031 · 5 pointsr/HandToolRescue

There are a few options. What to use depends on what the tool will be used for. Is it solely for collection or display? Or will I be using it daily once restored, or somewhere in between with use maybe 2-3 times a year.

Obviously WD-40 or any other oil will prevent rust, but may be annoying to have to wipe down and degrease the tool before handling. If it’s a tool you use daily or even weekly, I wouldn’t even worry about any kind of anti rust. Your handling it, skin oils, and wear and tear will more or less keep rust away.

The ultimate, IMO, for preventing rust on tools more susceptible to rust than others (vintage pyroxylin handle screwdrivers, I’m looking at you), or that you’ll be handling and don’t want to get all oily when using or have to degrease/wipe down before using is Top-Cote . I’ve been using it for years and it does a great job. It’s waxy rather than oily and prevents rust very well. It’s resistance to handling isn’t super high, but it’s not horrible. It’s nice because it won’t ruin wood, fabric, or other oil sensitive surfaces. This is also an awesome treatment for a metal machine surface, especially in climates with higher humidity or where lower coefficient of friction is desirable.

u/HuggableBear · 5 pointsr/woodworking

Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.

The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.

Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.

u/HawkofNight · 5 pointsr/Locksmith

https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482666202&sr=8-7&keywords=lock+lube My personal go to lube on everything other than medeco and Assa locks. Just because of the warranty.

u/lazerdab · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Boe-shield is the industry standard for inside a steel frame

u/Roblazed · 5 pointsr/flashlight

I don't know if links are allowed here but Mountain Electronics has a replacement lens here and it's glass

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=929&search=emisar+d4

I don't work for them but I just got my d4 from them and the experience was great.

I clean my threads with microfiber cloths with some warm water then I use this as a lubricant.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOMKGPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't generally use detergents or anything more than warm water on anything. Rubbing alcohol seems like a safe bet for some things but I wouldn't let it touch your o-rings.

Best of luck.

u/beetard · 4 pointsr/Skookum

What you want is a can of this stuff called [Houdini](houdini lock lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H6TKBbW7HM9MV)

And break pad cleaner for electronics

u/animalman117 · 4 pointsr/SSBM

If you want to lubricate your stickbox, I only recommend using this:

https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72

u/GruvDesign · 4 pointsr/DIY

All of them do, unless they're aluminum. Best bet for prevention is a liberal application of this stuff on the inside of all the sheet metal, in late fall:

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B0000DD1DV

Will not hurt paint, but leaves a waxy, oily coating that protects and water beads right off it.

u/TinyFerret · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

u/wintyfresh · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Some or all of these would be appreciated I bet!

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner - The fastest, easiest method to keep your bike clean

Maxima Clean-Up Chain Cleaner - This gets the bike's chain clean with little if any scrubbing needed

DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver - This keeps dirt out of the chain and keeps the links well lubricated

u/FroeYo · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.

u/ChadBroChill16 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

After your guys' suggestions, here's what I bought.

Thanks!

u/Mr_Bro_Jangles · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Use Boeshield T-9 for long term storage or high humidity environments instead of wax.

u/rnienke · 3 pointsr/bicycling

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

u/NinjaCoder · 3 pointsr/woodworking

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

u/bobroberts7441 · 3 pointsr/fixit

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

u/Luckydogwood · 3 pointsr/woodworking

WD40 and a palm sander worked very well. I then sealed it with this stuff


Bostik 10220 Aerosol Top-Cote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223UD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X0qIDbCMEGJDK

It slides so well now.

u/frigginelvis · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

For severe corrosion, try some penetrating oil like
PB Blaster.

u/TheGreatPizano · 3 pointsr/Fixxit

Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

u/kidcharm86 · 3 pointsr/electricians

> WD-40 is not a lubricant.

So many people don't understand this.

I've been using Boesheild T9 for years after a friend recommended it. He races bicycles and this is what many riders use on their chains. The waxy finish doesn't get flung off like wet lubricants and it doesn't attract dirt.

u/Irahi · 3 pointsr/MTB

I had this problem recently, turned out that a small rock had snuck into the threads and jammed in there.

The solution was to use a bunch of this shit while the bike was on its side. Hit the axle from the ends as hard as you dare with a non-metal thing like a mallet and keep reapplying blaster a few times over a couple hours. Once you run out of patience, get the best fitting wrench you can in there and cross your fingers while you yank on it.

u/Necoras · 3 pointsr/DIY

A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).

u/Gorov · 3 pointsr/rccars

I've become a big fan of WD-40 Silicone Spray. I've been lightly applying it on the tops of all the screws after the post-bash RC shower, and it keeps the rust away.

u/dtrav001 · 3 pointsr/hardware

I have cleaned and repaired many. First get the dust and dirt off. Then, if you find a center hub covered by a cap or thin plastic sticker, remove to expose the bearing. Then a drop or two of this stuff, and you have a good chance of resurrection. Praise grid.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/Skookum
u/NeedsSleepy · 3 pointsr/homeowners

If corded electric, make sure it’s unplugged, or remove the battery if it has one.

If you’re having trouble with the bolt, hit it with a bit of PB Blaster (also available at Walmart and auto parts stores) and let it sit for a bit. That’s a far better penetrating oil than WD-40.

If it’s still stuck, have a friend hold the blade while you crank on it with a wrench that has a longer handle, or put a pipe over the wrench you’re using (a “cheater bar”).

If that still fails, it’s time to buy an impact wrench/driver and a set of impact sockets. Never pass up an opportunity to buy tools! If you’ve already got cordless power tools from another brand, you can likely find an impact wrench that takes the batteries you’ve got. I just happen to be a Bosch fan.

Also, make sure you’re using the right size wrench. You don’t want to round off that bolt.

Someone mentioned jamming wood under the blade to hold it still while you’re wrenching on it. That seems like a fine idea.

u/troglodyte · 3 pointsr/whitewater

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

u/LJ-Rubicon · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Failing voltage regulator can cause the flickering. The regulator is in your alternator, so it'd require a new one

Usually when an alternator goes out, it's been going out, and will take the battery out with it.

So, it's possible you'll be needing to replace both in the future

The thing moving is belt tensioner, it's designed to move like that

For noise in the serpentine belt area, I take a silicone based lubricant and spray each bearing until the noise shuts up. If you spray a bearing and it shuts up, that's it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gQm1DbF3EXRNW

u/light24bulbs · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

Ooh it's four dollars! Ordered. Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdI0DbKX6MN0W

u/fiftypoints · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Mmm... you brush some krytox on those switch parts, then you rub some extreme fluoro on those stabilizers, you naughty typist.

u/throwaway29173196 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.

u/twentytwocents · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I've used paste wax and GlideCote, both are susceptible to occasional rust. I may try T9 at some point. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

I think for a hand plane, a simple solution would be to store it wrapped up in a cotton cloth. If the only time it was out in the open is when it's being used, that might have a serious impact on oxidation.

u/TheReal-JoJo103 · 3 pointsr/BBQ

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

u/lethpard · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I wish I was aware of Dupont Chain Saver with Teflon when I started riding. It is pretty amazing stuff.

u/AnAppleSnail · 3 pointsr/flashlight

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGHY

I bought one or two from Radio Shack a few years ago. The pen applicator is pretty handy.

u/rhekn · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

At 21 seconds, middle of the frame just above the tire, see that part moving? Hit it with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 I would even try wd40, or even plain water. Apply lubrication and listen for a change in the sound.

That sound is rubber squeaking. Any place that moves and has rubber is a canditate for that noise. Spray all the things.

This will find your problem and solve it short term. Maybe once every few months lube it again. Replace the part once you find it is the long term solution.

u/foggymountainman · 2 pointsr/typewriters

If you are trying to free up sticky, the best thing I have found is PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. Be sure to have a pair of rubber gloves and lots of ventilation. Be very careful not to let this get on plastic. I'd spray a little bit down where the typebar goes into the element and work the key until it is smooth up and down. Wipe off the excess and let it air out for a day or so. You should be good to go. A little goes a long way. This has freed every sticky machine I've ever dealt with. Regarding lubrication, I guess I'd say the lighter the machine oil the better - http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-EXTRA-LONG-synthetic-movements/dp/B00CD814RA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396799365&sr=8-4&keywords=clock+oil+kit

u/zombiedodge · 2 pointsr/cars

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

u/jrocbaby · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.

Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.

Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.

These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha

u/TurboNoodle69 · 2 pointsr/Audi

I use wd-40 silicone spray lubricant on all things that are sealed with rubber (doors, windows, sunroofs ...)

It leaves a very very thin layer that soaks a little bit into the rubber and also protects it. It does not destroy paint and is easily applied in spray form.

u/lurkforeternity · 2 pointsr/Vive

Since i have not seen anyone suggest this yet, WD-40 has a specialist silicone spray that is both plastic safe and dielectric. Hold down your trigger and spray a very small amount in the trigger hinge area.
Got rid of that same problem for me with no shipping.
This stuff ---> https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U

u/sourdoughbred · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I was just reading a comparison in Fine Woodworking mag.

They found this to be the best overall for both tool steel and cast iron. (take it for what it's worth).

I've always used paste wax. They found it to be marginally effective. I've never had rust issues, then again, my shop isn't all that damp.

u/Combatcoda · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Either get a chain brush with nylon bristles, or else use an old rag. Apply chain specific cleaner, or else kerosene, or WD-40 to the chain and cleaning tool, scrub the chain. If you haven't touched the chain in a while, you'll probably want to spend around 10 minutes working on cleaning it up. After that, you can either use chain lube or chain wax. Either is fine, it doesn't really matter which you use. Wax does tend to make less of a mess, at least as far as I've noticed.

If you want specific products, here's a chain cleaner,
here's a brush,
and here's chain wax

u/bigtime_porgrammer · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Orange/citrus degreaser works great and is non-toxic. If you like a clean chain, use wax instead of oil-based lube. Wax works just as well, but needs to be reapplied more often. Some folks use actual paraffin wax. Most recently, I use a wax spray made by Dupont that also has Teflon in it - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6FD4

u/iceman15951 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

What do I clean my chain with before I wax it? This is what I use to wax.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416845035&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+saver

I used WD40 to clean it but people say that's not good for it. What else should I use?

u/sektabox · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought mine 10 years ago. The 12". Thyy had no carbide cutters at the time. A retrofit is available from Holbren.


The straight knives are good quality and and last a long time. The machine never failed me. Just keep the table clean and slick. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

u/Xavias · 2 pointsr/hockeyplayers

Pick up one of these for $13 and this for $5 and practice wherever whenever!

u/Macgyver452 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk
u/jfastman · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.

u/YOU_WONT_LIKE_IT · 2 pointsr/CNC

Try this: BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 4 oz aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1DV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKfECbFZQFBSM

u/Arcanorum · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

WD40 is good at removing rust, not so good at preventing it.
You would want something like this https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

u/spncrbrry · 2 pointsr/Throwers

yes that 3in1 will do fine, but thicker will be more responsive and last longer.

You can melt vaseline into a bearing with a lighter - hold the bearing on the end of a pencil or something you don't care about burning a bit. Make sure you only do this if the bearing is all metal.

"Brain Lube" is the best, imo - this is the same stuff https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51010-Oil/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499211271&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube+ptfe

Mineral spirits cuts the oil - distributes it more evenly and thinly - so adding it to your lube makes it less responsive.

u/Weird_With_A_Beard · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

u/Cmdr_Keen · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Pick up some chain lube, a can of plexus, and a microfiber towel. These are really simple things that are easy to overlook, but make a difference.

It's pretty easy to roll the bike a couple feet and spray the chain in sections every few hundred miles even without a stand.

I'm always surprised at how much less fatiguing a long ride is with a clean visor. Just less things for your brain to process if there aren't as many bugs in your vision.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/

u/Zapador · 2 pointsr/airsoft

They should all be synthetic grease and therefore not cause problems with rubber/plastic parts.

I'd recommend getting some Super Lube multi purpose online, like here.

u/LockedLogic · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I’ve heard really good things about Lock Houdini, which is a lube specifically designed for use in locks.

u/tomogchi · 2 pointsr/mechanics

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

u/givemeafreakinbreak · 2 pointsr/pics

PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.

u/igg0 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Once you remove the rust you should try TopCote its a sealant, lubricant and its finish safe. Having a safe lubricant to put on the tablesaw top is frigging awesome. I couldn't believe how much easier it made running a sheet of plywood through or doing cross cut work.

u/Montmark · 2 pointsr/woodworking

These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!

u/Jimmers1231 · 2 pointsr/Toyota

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.

u/RobAtSGH · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

u/rrmains · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/doneal · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

A friend of mine in a lock smith. He says to use a product called "Houdini lock oil" and to never use graphite. I will attest that I've used graphite several times with wild success.

u/Uhdoyle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Super Lube 51010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cn8OCb5WJ71QT

You’ll want to add a drop to the horizontal pivot point inside that angled round donut part.

Edit: red line is the imaginary axle. Apply lube to points marked by yellow arrows https://imgur.com/a/ZlmV6Uw

u/Highside79 · 2 pointsr/WTF

I have been using this for chain lube:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839

It is, frankly, amazing. It goes on like WD40. What I like about it is that it dries to a waxy like consistency so that it doesn't fling off all over the place and it isn't tacky and doesn't attract dirt like more liquid libricants.

I actually use it on a street motorcycle chain as well and have been very satisfied with that application as well.

EDIT: It looks like they changed the formulation of the multi-purpose lube. It is no longer a dry wax lube and is therefore not suitable for chain use anymore. :-(

They say that this is similar to the old formula, but I haven't tried it yet. I will soon since I am almost out of the old stuff. :-(

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

u/mega_beef · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

They were much cheaper on eBay (less quantity), but here's the links for Amazon:

Krytox GPL 205

Krytox GPL 105

Dupont Teflon Si

And I can't find the Victorinox on Amazon

u/TubesBestNoob · 2 pointsr/longrange

I was using KG-4 but after seeing some recent experiments using a number of different products, I switched over to Frog Lube.

So far both have done their job. KSG-4 smells like gun oil ought to smell. Frog Lube smell's minty like muscle ache cream for old people. For me personally... I'll tolerate a rifle that smells like Grandpa if it keeps it from rusting.

u/MEatRHIT · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I use this stuff on my handplanes and chisels your wrenches and other gear should be plated in something that inhibits rust I've never had any of my craftsman handtools develop rust. If you de-rust them you can then polish and put a clear coat on them to protect them a bit better

u/DoormansPlacebo · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you don't feel like taking the time to spray paint them, I'd say go with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001447PEK
It sprays wet like wd-40, but dries to a thin waxy film that last months.

u/bigfig · 2 pointsr/sailing

Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.

u/Meph616 · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

Know what I don't keep in my car? Candles. Know what I do? PB Blaster. Instead of using pinterest inspired gimmicks I do what actual adults do. Buy PB Blaster (or any other version of penetrating oil) and use it like it is intended.

It is not expensive and works wonders on everything. If you aren't in a hurry you can get it for $3.64 on Amazon Prime Shipped.

If you need it today then hit up your local Autozone or Wal-Mart or whatever place you have around you that deals with automotive stuffs. They will have it. It's everywhere. Know what they don't have in that aisle? Candles.

u/rhiley · 1 pointr/headphones

Yes, I use https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 for similar issues although I don't have AKGs.

u/CarpenterJeff · 1 pointr/Carpentry

Boeshield T9 spray

We used this on everything in the cabinet shop. Spray on, let it dry a few minutes then wipe it off. Table saw tops, miter saw slides, blades, plane soles, chisels, everything. I had used white lithium before but it honestly don't hold a candle to T9. Kinda expensive but a can will listi you a couple years.

https://smile.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boeshield+t9&qid=1562926091&s=gateway&sprefix=boes&sr=8-3

u/loadedmind · 1 pointr/HoustonRideIt

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-14-Ounce/dp/B00D3G6FD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465398683&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain+lube

What year is your Streety? I'd highly recommend PitBull stands. VERY well made, but a bit pricey.

Also, head on over to triumphrat.net if you haven't already and register. Lots of excellent advice from knowledgeable folks.

u/likemindead · 1 pointr/Firearms

$12 via Amazon Prime. Froglube CLP 4 Oz. Tub of Paste Gun Clean... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FOV89E/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_aBijub1RCE2V6

u/KHHAANNN · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-Lubricant-Perfluoropolyether-Industrial-Bottle/dp/B0096VV9ZE/

If you pour a little bit on top of the switch's stem, without opening it, it should mess up the switch for life, it won't click anymore

Obviously a bad thing to do, but you might like it (it would be a unique switch, a bit sluggish, but silent)

u/subcat · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I read that Hypersphere (guy who makes the Topre silencing rings of the same name) uses Super Lube 51010 to lube his Topre switches. Is there anything wrong with this lube that I should know (not plastic safe, wrong viscosity, etc.) before I order some?

Also, how long after using a keyboard should I lube it? A year or so?

u/electricblock · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Many dielectric greases are ptfe (Teflon) based. What you want is a thick grease, not a thin oil. (To get technical, you want something with nlgi grade 2)

I can recommend superlube brand's silicone dielectric grease.

u/morechatter · 1 pointr/DIY

I use a stripped screw extractor kit. Very handy for under $20; I've had good luck with them.

Don't forget to spracy the screw with a penetrating oil first!

u/eyesonlybob · 1 pointr/Tools

I have some of this. I'll give it a try. I feel like I was hitting it pretty hard but I was definitely afraid of damaging something. I could definitely hit harder. Thanks for the response.

u/nidrach · 1 pointr/Vive

You could use something like this http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U maybe. Silicone based lubricants are safe for plastics and squeaking is always some friction between the plastic parts.

u/penetration_expert · 1 pointr/reddit.com

locksmith here. I dont see any lock on the door. No dial at least. Is it key operated? It could just be a hatch of some kind thats rusted shut. Try lubricating the crap out of it and using something like pb blaster or a similar penetrating oil. let that sit for a while than try opening it.

u/comancheflyer · 1 pointr/flying

Aha "Stoddard Solvent" on the prop, then paint ... also known as Marvel Mystery Oil AKA Naptha ...

To summarize the the manual: Dip the plane in paint thinner, then wash with dish soap.

White spirit or mineral spirits, also known as mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), varsol, Stoddard solvent, or, generically, "paint thinner", is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting and decorating.

WD-40 w/ silicone works nice on props to clean and make them pretty.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U/

u/CSharpSauce · 1 pointr/woodworking

Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

u/leros · 1 pointr/shapeoko

I use Boeshield T-9 to protect my woodworking tools from rusting. Its a bit expensive but it lasts a long time. I reapply it once a year. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

u/SuperAquaThor · 1 pointr/woodworking

Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.

  1. I went to amazon and bought:
  2. I lowered the saw blade.

  3. I spread Mineral spirits with the steel wool in small circles with a bit of elbow grease.

  4. I scrubbed for a moment with the wire brush where there were bad rust spots, but then I thought "This is going to take for ever!"

  5. I sanded it with my orbital sander and my highest grade sand paper pad. This created a thin slurry of rust and mineral oil.

  6. I went back to the wire brush to scrub the spots the sander couldn't reach.

  7. I went in the house with my slurry-covered fingers in the air opening doors with my elbows and grabbed an undershirt from the laundry to wipe down the saw.

  8. I wiped down the saw.

  9. I did one more pass with mineral oil and steels wool.

  10. I sprayed it with the protection spray.

  11. I marveled at/ took pictures of my saw.

  12. I scanned my garage for other small tools I could quickly sand and spray.

    The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.
u/wickedcold · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Oh, and in the future try PB Blaster instead when you're trying to free something that is seized up. It is far superior to WD-40 for that task.

u/moomoominkie · 1 pointr/Android

I actually like the way aluminium goes when it dulls down. This also, conveniently doesn't need maintenance.. However a guy here:
http://www.finishing.com/3600-3799/3674.shtml
recommends this stuff (Boeshield T-9):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK/ref=nosim?tag=finishingcominc
to keep the shine, disses on Carnauba wax.

u/AlmightyNeckbeardo · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Best way to check it is to just spin the cassette with your hand. Does anything feel crunchy? Is it smooth? Is there any (significant) play or looseness?

Unless you notice anything wrong you're pretty much good to go. If you thinking the bearings need some lube you could spray a bit of T-9 in the hub-no disassembly required.

Tbh shimano hubs are pretty bad imo and if the freehub (or any other part of the hub) is starting to fail on you it would be prudent to just go ahead and replace the whole hub. Possibly the whole wheel as that would likely be cheaper, especially if you go used. Deore hubs are very low end and they have terrible terrible loose ball bearings. Not even worth fixing most of the time.

u/HallSquadSkates1984 · 1 pointr/flashlight

I've use this Nyogel container on nearly 50 flashlights, multiple times, and still have 60% of the container. It is AMAZING stuff.

u/pigcupid · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Frame Saver is fine, but sort of a waste of money. Boesheild T-9 works better, comes in larger bottles, and is cheaper by volume. It also has more applications than Frame Saver, so there's added value there, too.

u/Infinity_z · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

u/CaptainOfMyPants · 1 pointr/woodworking

>https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

Thanks for the info! I'll get a can of that and try it out.

u/Arctic_Silver_5 · 1 pointr/Miata

This stuff is your friend when it comes to rust. One can has lasted me awhile.

Spray that on the rusted area and let it sit for a day or two for best results. Get a wrench that fits on the bolt, and take a hammer to the end of the wrench. There are better and safer ways to break free a rusted bolt (impact hammer/wrench) but this is the cheap way.

u/Timbo1986 · 1 pointr/Skookum
u/teknoanimal · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

As for your stripped screw problem, i had the same problem on my Acura. I have a fatty flathead screwdriver, probably 5 time normal. I dremeled a notch into the head of the screw, sprayed it with blaster, let it sit for a bit and cursed and put a fair amount of weight into it and it broke free.

u/contradictingpoint · 1 pointr/DIY

Maybe something like crc 3-36

CRC 3-36 Multi-Purpose Lubricant and Corrosion Inhibitor, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear/Blue/Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192EX10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfY3Cb1VX44ZF

u/Alucard256 · 1 pointr/rccars

FlexSeal yes! :)

I remove the plastic cases from my ESC and receiver and go to town with 4-6 coats of FlexSeal! :)

My Axial Wraith has been running right up the middle of streams for 2+ years now. Been 100% submerged for minutes at a time. Never glitched even a little bit.

I wouldn't use FlexSeal on joints of any type though. It will rip over time from repetitive back and forth motion.

Also, the "White Lightning" stuff you're talking about from cycling sounds like what RC calls "dry lubricant". I've seen RC guys use this from 3M.

The other option is Marine Grease. It's made for boating and lot's of offroad crawlers use it. Some guys pack their entire transmission, differential and axle with it.

u/SaintNewts · 1 pointr/Skookum

I had to replace the front passenger hub assembly on my wife's minivan. The bearing nut came off with no problems and I thought that was going to be the bear. Nope. One of the brake caliper support bolts would NOT budge even with my impact and a half a can of PB Blaster. Eventually got it off after heating up the housing around the bolt with some MAPP propylene gas. That thing was ON there.

u/the10drforever · 1 pointr/dxracer

That seems to be something in the tilting mechanism. It may be that the spring inside there has lost its lubrication. Try adjusting the tension if the tilting to see if that changes anything. Also to lubercate it I would try a spray lubricant. Like this or anything similar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dhASybSCX03CF

u/dfnkt · 1 pointr/DIY

Great job! You might try PBlaster next time you have seized screws, it does a much better job than WD40. I used it this weekend cleaning up a Disston D-15 Victory saw. Same store had a few stanley planes but they were too far gone for saving.

https://imgur.com/a/ZCANI -- Saw ended up good enough for me to use. Might watch that Paul Sellers video on sharpening them, I think it's sharp but who knows.

Apologies for the odd angles - uploaded from Imgur mobile and didn't see where to flip the image. Guessing saw dates somewhere between 1928 and 1945. The victory symbol changed to a "V" around then by the eagle.

u/newbewts · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Because it attracts dirt and dust and over time it will be like you sprayed a soda inside. It gunks up the lock horribly. Use Houdini, it works really well and it smells nice too. http://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459130125&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+spray

u/vvstn · 1 pointr/dr650

That stuff looks good

This is a terrible price BTW, should be at walmart--
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

u/the_stringmaster · 1 pointr/XVcrosstrek

Try using PB Blaster to penetrate the gunk. I had this issue with a old VW and PB Blaster helped. Also tried using the blow torch/impact wrench. that failed but PB Blaster and this methods combined worked. HTH

u/heloitsame · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

hey friends! would either of these be good for switch lube? going for hako clears/tealios if that matters, thanks!

edit: canadian, so id have to pay an arm and a leg for krytox/tribosys

edit2: or if you have other suggestions, im open to them!

u/Jwast · 1 pointr/ar15

My bottle of EWL Slip 2000 claims it's non-toxic.

u/alanv73 · 1 pointr/turning

I regularly use Bostik TopCote on most of my machines with cast iron tops. It protects well, and leaves a really slick yet dry surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

If I find surface rust on one of my machines I use Top Saver and a piece of scotch-brite to remove the rust and condition the metal. Then I apply the TopCote for protection.

u/Tkf530 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I was able to spray some lubricant on the key itself to turn it so I can start it for an oil change. Do you think this product will work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_FLYXDbJX1G6C9

u/GardenGnomeOfEden · 1 pointr/guns

I use Eezox on the outside, Slip 2000 EWL on the inside.

u/UncleAugie · 1 pointr/bicycling

Pick up a can of Bosheild formulated by Boeing for corrosion prevention during airplane assembly it is the standard in multiple industries. If you are not riding for a few days a quick spray will keep the bike from starting corrosion. Otherwise a bi weekly clean up and oiling will keep the bikes in good shape, if you can rig a small cover you could just put the bikes under the humidity won't be as big of an issue.

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/villamewah · 1 pointr/sex

Pure silicone lubes are absolutely edible, as it is considered one of the most inert chemical substance in the world.

[inert = lazy = no reaction = zzzzzz.....]

To get a grasp of how safe it is, just consider this: it is commonly used in surgical treatment of (eye) retinal detachment, and breast implant (enlargement).

For top medical grade / personal lube, its ingredient should contains no more than these 3 (Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane), else it is not pure.

It should be no colour (transparent), no taste, no smell.

Do dot confuse it with industrial grade silicone lube available from your local hardware store (https://www.amazon.ca/WD-40-300014-Specialist-Resistant-Lubricant/dp/B00631GSSI), which is NOT edible.

Information courtesy of http://silicone100.com/demystifying-silicone-oil.html

u/A52-830 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

dupont makes something specifically for motorcycle chains:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0VDC2

i have it, but have not tried it yet. i have been using YamaLube forever (even though i only recently got a Yamaha):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BH9OSG

every bike place i have been seems to have yamalube, even if they dont sell yahama's.

u/_neth · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You've never heard of PB Blaster? This stuff is magic

u/Johndough99999 · 1 pointr/cycling

Try a different lube, like PB blaster

Try to intentionally apply pressure in the "ON" direction. Sometimes it will break free enough while tightening to come loose.

Try hitting the crank arm while trying to loosen/tighten. A rubber mallet or deadblow would be best.

If the above still does not work only then would I start methods that may cause damage... like more force or heat.

u/cleansoap · 1 pointr/bicycling

You need to use a screw extractor.

If you've lead a good clean life (and it looks like you haven't) it will come right out.

If you don't want to buy the tool or don't have the drill to use it with just go to your LBS. Any competent one should be able to do this for you for a rather small charge.

If you have reason to suspect the screw is in there real good start applying PB Blaster or other penetrating oil now. Do whoever will be removing it a favor and get penetrating early. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil.

u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have not. But it's cheap, so that's good. If you've got Amazon prime, you could also go with this stuff. That'll fix you up right.

I wouldn't worry about getting a whole new board. Just do the best you can to clean out that Finish Line stuff (maybe unplug and use an old toothbrush wetted lightly with isopropyl alcohol), then give it a healthy dosage if dielectric grease. It'll help a lot.

u/Darkhorse182 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Yeah, I didn't think so, re: WD-40.

Anti-seize will probably help on the threads, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can coat on wheel bolt that'll actually stay put when exposed to the road, and offer protection without interfering with the threads. I have some Boeshield T-9...my mechanic recommended it for keeping my coilover threads from getting gummed up, so I'm thinking this will work.

u/Wdeflect · 1 pointr/pressurewashing

I'm reading petroleum jelly will dry out o-ring if it's rubber (not sure what mine is, haven't looked)

I do have WD-40 or this silicone spray. I'm thinking maybe the silicone spray?

u/bexamous · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I usually spray whatever I have handy, most often CRC eletronics cleaner or WD40 brand silicon spray which is awesome because its got built in nozzle that doesn't fall off...

https://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

https://amzn.com/B00631GSSI

Anyways I spray something just to get hardened dirt a bit moist, or in general any liquid will help cut down on friction ... spray motor, then point datavac into motor best I can, not using any attachments or anything and then start rotating motor back and forth. I try not to force, like I'll just start turning other direction if it gets stuck a little... just back and forth is the goal.

Combination of lube + airflow + rotation to sorta nudge stuff / change direction of airflow on a piece of dirt, usually after like 30s motor is pretty dirt free. If after 30s it still can feel dirt, like my lazy side will make me just to force rotation more... might scratch up stuff but will also break up whatever little rocks or whatever stuff is stuck in there. Just try to avoid it as much as possible but in the end motor is like $20... not worth babying it.

u/DeadFable · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.


List of everything I used:

u/M80IW · 0 pointsr/Tools
u/ctrlshiftba · -1 pointsr/keyboards

I would use one specifically designed for electronics like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KH0YDY